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What is EM Activation?

Effective microorganisms can be "activated", a 3-5 week process (or longer) by which 1 part EM (mixed with 1 part molasses and 20 parts water) is fermented to increase your quantity of EM by approximately 20 times. The resulting activated EM (AEM) is used the same as regular EM.

It has traditionally been done to save money, but it can also improve the efficacy of the EM, primarily because it wakes up dormant microbes. It sounds a bit overwhelming at first, but it is actually easy and very fun. You don't have to do it, but I recommend it if you will be using a lot of EM, as it will save you money. Alternatively, you can order it already activated by me up above.

Here is my EM Activation Procedure. The following video also covers the activation process:

Effective Microorganisms Application

Preferably, effective microorganisms would be applied in smaller, regular doses, such as monthly or even weekly. At minimum, it should be done once in the spring and once in the fall. EM works great when combined with biostimulants. Here are some application rates, with more details at the links below:

Dilution - EM and activated EM can be diluted with water for application with ratios from 1:50 water to 1:10000 water. This ratio depends on the frequency of application and the area you are trying to cover. For example, daily use through irrigation systems is often done at very diluted ratios. Use on turf and in gardens would be lower.

Here are some ratios that I have come up with based on my research. I spent considerable time researching application rates for my February 2009 Newsletter.

I determined that it would be a good idea to experiment with using lesser amounts of EM (the lower end of the scale below), particularly if you are having trouble diluting it with sufficient water. As shown below, I would like to see at least a 1:250 dilution for foliar sprays and a 1:100 for turf and soil, and I believe that 85 ml (1/3 cup) of EM per thousand square feet would be a good place to start:

1:10000 - for daily use, such as through an irrigation system 1:1000 - for weekly foliar use; 20-125 ml of EM per 1000 sq ft

1:100-1:250 - for monthly use as a foliar feed; higher dilution (1:250) is better if possible; 85500 ml of EM per 1000 sq ft 1:50 - for monthly/seasonal use on turf and as a soil drench; higher dilution (1:100) is better if possible; 85-500 ml of EM per 1000 sq ft 1:1000 - for soaking seeds; 5-10 minutes only, as some seed may ferment after too long

I have never run into any problems, but it is theoretically possible to ferment flowers and young, tender leaves if the application rate is below 1:250. If you have prize roses, it would be best to use a more diluted ratio to avoid this possibility. Note that the application rates above and below are for the EM before it has been diluted.

If you're using city water and you want to get rid of the chlorine, leaving it in a pail for 24 hours will be sufficient to dechlorinate it in most cities. In some cities such as Victoria, however, they use chloramine in the water (chlorine and ammonium), which does not dissipate as readily. In this case, a small amount of humic acids or a crushed Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) tablet can be stirred into the water before use.

Here is another way to look at effective microorganisms application rates:

Lawn and Garden - Manufacturer's recommend a total of 1 gallon(US) per 1000 sq ft per year, split into applications as often as is feasible. This is a lot more than is typically used in agriculture (see below). I believe we should try using the agriculture rates, particularly if we are using a backpack sprayer or something similar where mixing it with enough water for a proper dilution is not feasible due to time contraints. I think that perhaps the dilution ratio is more important than the actual rate of application. Compost - 1:100 until compost is moist, but not soaked (like a wrung out sponge). Agricultural inoculant - A total of 1 to 10 gallons(US) per acre per year, split into applications as often as is feasible. For some reason, the recommendations for farming are generally less. There could be several reasons for this, but ultimately it points to the fact that there is no recipe. Research is still being done on optimal dilutions and application rates.

More application rates | Septic Systems | My Activation Procedure Products

Microbial Inoculants Effective Microorganisms Compost Tea

Mycorrhizal Fungi Nitrogen-Fixing Bacteria Organic Fertilizers Sea Minerals Fertilizer Liquid Kelp Fertilizer Liquid Fish Fertilizer Humic Acids Blackstrap Molasses Penergetic Books Working With Nature Essence Of Organic Gardening Building Soils Naturally Resources

Testimonials

"I wanted to take a moment to express how refreshing it is to find a good, local supplier of these important biostimulants & microorganisms used in organic/ sustainable horticultural practices. I regularly utilize products like liquid kelp, sea minerals, fish hydrolysate, humic acids, and molasses, as well as brewing my own batches of compost tea. I do seem to turn to The Organic Gardener's Pantry for some fascinating additional information on various processes & application rates. In my experience, shipping of the products has been impressively rapid too! *Highly recommended*" Scott Hurst, Organic Gardener, North Vancouver, BC

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Effective Microorganisms Application


Preferably, effective microorganisms would be applied in smaller, regular doses, such as monthly or even weekly. At minimum, it should be done once in the spring and once in the fall. EM works great when combined with biostimulants. Here are some application rates, with more details at the links below: Dilution - EM and activated EM can be diluted with water for application with ratios from 1:50 water to 1:10000 water. This ratio depends on the frequency of application and the area you are trying to cover. For example, daily use through irrigation systems is often done at very diluted ratios. Use on turf and in gardens would be lower.

Here are some ratios that I have come up with based on my research. I spent considerable time researching application rates for my February 2009 Newsletter. I determined that it would be a good idea to experiment with using lesser amounts of EM (the lower end of the scale below), particularly if you are having trouble diluting it with sufficient water. As shown below, I would like to see at least a 1:250 dilution for foliar sprays and a 1:100 for turf and soil, and I believe that 85 ml (1/3 cup) of EM per thousand square feet would be a good place to start:

1:10000 - for daily use, such as through an irrigation system 1:1000 - for weekly foliar use; 20-125 ml of EM per 1000 sq ft 1:100-1:250 - for monthly use as a foliar feed; higher dilution (1:250) is better if possible; 85-500 ml of EM per 1000 sq ft 1:50 - for monthly/seasonal use on turf and as a soil drench; higher dilution (1:100) is better if possible; 85-500 ml of EM per 1000 sq ft 1:1000 - for soaking seeds; 5-10 minutes only, as some seed may ferment after too long

I have never run into any problems, but it is theoretically possible to ferment flowers and young, tender leaves if the application rate is below 1:250. If you have prize roses, it would be best to use a more diluted ratio to avoid this possibility. Note that the application rates above and below are for the EM before it has been diluted. If you're using city water and you want to get rid of the chlorine, leaving it in a pail for 24 hours will be sufficient to dechlorinate it in most cities. In some cities such as Victoria, however, they use chloramine in the water (chlorine and ammonium), which does not dissipate as readily. In this case, a small amount of humic acids or a crushed Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) tablet can be stirred into the water before use. Here is another way to look at effective microorganisms application rates:

Lawn and Garden - Manufacturer's recommend a total of 1 gallon(US) per 1000 sq ft per year, split into applications as often as is feasible. This is a lot more than is typically used in agriculture (see below). I believe we should try using the agriculture rates, particularly if we are using a backpack sprayer or something similar where mixing it with enough water for a proper dilution is not feasible due to time contraints. I think that perhaps the dilution ratio is more important than the actual rate of application. Compost - 1:100 until compost is moist, but not soaked (like a wrung out sponge). Agricultural inoculant - A total of 1 to 10 gallons(US) per acre per year, split into applications as often as is feasible. For some reason, the recommendations for farming are generally less. There could be several reasons for this, but ultimately it points to the fact that there is no recipe. Research is still being done on optimal dilutions and application rates.

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