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VILNIUS
April - July 2013
A fully updated, impartial scrutiny of everything Vilnius has to offer visitors for the spring and early summer
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A cracking little seasonal guide to the awesome lakeside town of Trakai
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Contents
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Basics
Some simple differences worth knowing 5 7 9 14 18 23
Live music at Vienuolyno Kiemas. Hats off to the merry innkeepers of Vilnius whove once again realised the vast potential of the citys open spaces during the coming warmer part of the year and whove accordingly made the decision to plonk some fine drinking spaces in them for the social benefit of all. At the time of going to press, were only certain of three such watering holes, although there should be more to follow. Keep and eye out as you go and read more about this years confirmed venues on p.53. Weather permitting, everything should stay open until towards the end of September or thereabouts.
History
A mind-boggling millennium
Arriving & Getting around

Where to get off and how to stay afloat
Trakai
Spring and summer in the former capital
Culture & Events

Art, photography and the rest
Where to stay
Campsites and presidential suites for all
Dining & Nightlife

Restaurants The capitals kitchens in all their glory Nightlife Beer, clubs and a little bit of nakedness 31 53
Sightseeing
A fully comprehensive guide
62 75
Mail & Phones

Keeping in touch
Directory
Shopping Lifestyle Health Sport & Leisure Business 76 84 88 90 92 93 94 96 98 99 April - July 2013
Maps & Index

Street register City centre map City map Index Country map
Trakai. The trip begins on p.14
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Foreword
Its barely the middle of March as we sit and scribble the last few words of the guide before getting ready for printing, and already one major Lithuanian banks gone out of business and the neo-Nazis and their embarrassing nationalist friends have once again paraded through the centre of Vilnius in a desperate attempt to return to life in the 19th century and generally make fools of themselves. The good news is that with the majority of the bad PR out of the way so soon in the year, Lithuanias splendid little capital city is now free to get on with the ongoing task of transforming itself from the former Soviet backwater it recently was into the leading European centre of modernity the overwhelming majority of its inhabitants clearly want it to be. Vilnius In Your Pocket is once again at the vanguard of these changes, reflecting in the time-old fashion of laying ink onto paper these changes with as much honesty and good humour as we can muster. As always, find compressed inside the following 100 pages a veritable smrgsbord of useful and intelligent information aimed at enlightening readers and generally helping them navigate their way through the city as easily as possible. Keep an eye of for our sister publications Kaunas In Your Pocket and Klaipda In Your Pocket, fully updated for those wishing to explore the country in more detail and on the streets again in May and June respectively. Praise and abuse as always to vilnius@inyourpocket.com.
The World of In Your Pocket

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Cover story
A bicycle stands outside a shop in Old Town, one of an increas ingly large number of self-propelled vehicles used for display purposes in Vilnius. With plenty of green open spaces and only a handful of horribly steep hills, Lithuanias capital is definitely worth exploring by bicycle during the warmer part of the year. Read what you need to know on p.12.
Its now 21 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Tbilisi, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed ) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for IYP Guides by name. To keep up to date with all thats new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright UAB VIYP 1992-2013; some photos, LATGA-A; maps, cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardin 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Editorial Editor Sco Research Vaida Kurseviit Layout & Design Vaida Gudynait Cover Sonata Galin Sales & Circulation Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket General Manager Rta Klimaviit Accounting V ACORDO Sales Manager Rta Klimaviit
This guidebook and all of our other Lithuanian guides are available for sale from kiosks, tourist information centres, the Vilnius In Your Pocket office and other outlets throughout Vilnius and Lithuania as well as online at www.inyourpocket.com. Complimentary copies of Vilnius In Your Pocket are also available in many hotels.
Vilnius In Your Pocket Bernardin 9-4 Vilnius, Lithuania, LT-01124 mob. (+370) 610 468 64 tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76 fax (+370) 5 212 29 82 vilnius@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1392-0057 UAB VIYP Printed by UAB Lietuvos ryto spaustuv Published three times per year Print run 22,000
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.
Vilnius In Your Pocket
Basics
Exchange rates
1=3.45Lt 1=4.05Lt US$1=2.66Lt (March 25, 2013)
Crime & Safety

Crime is rampant in Lithuania, a great deal of it taking place inside the clandestine world of business and politics and consequently having little if no effect on the average visitor. Crimes closer to home include such petty annoyances as having bits of your car stolen to the inevitable disappearing purses and mobile phones. Dont leave valuables in unattended pockets or lying around on tables. The chances of getting robbed in the street remain tiny. However, caution never did anybody any harm, and youre advised not to flaunt your wallet in stupid places or announce to the entire world your huge wealth by wearing loud jewellery in quiet back streets. Walk tall, look like you know what youre doing, and you wont be troubled. Green-uniformed police (policija) are supposed to be keeping the peace in Old Town, although finding one when you need is like looking for the proverbial needle in the haystack.
Alcohol
Almost without exception Lithuanian beer (alus) is light, crisp, cold, cheap and delicious. Many varieties exist and youre recommended to test a few before settling on a regular brand. Among the more common varieties are the magnificent vyturys from Klaipda, Utenos from Utena and Kalnapilis from Panevys. Perhaps surprisingly, Vilnius cant claim its own brewery. If you want to drink beer made in the capital youll have to drink it in a microbrewery (see Nightlife). Be warned, Lithuanian beers tend to be stronger than their Western counterparts, making the forming of the simplest words (such as alus) a challenge after just a couple of the most lethal. In Old Town expect to pay somewhere in the region of 5-10Lt for half a litre. Lithuanian vodka (degtin) is cheap, generally of good quality and is drunk with gusto at the mere rumour of the dropping of a hat. Among the more interesting spirits are starka, a 15th-century PolishLithuanian concoction of dark, syrupy rye vodka fortified with apple leaves and lime blossom, and the local illicit firewater, samagonas, available through the right connections. Take note that imported alcohol isnt cheap. Dont go falling into the trap of thinking that because the local stuff is giveaway everything else is too. Check prices before a session to avoid an embarrassingly large bill at the end of the evening. At the time of writing it was illegal to buy alcohol in shops between 22:00 and 08:00 anywhere in Lithuania, one of the countrys more cynical pieces of legislation that does nothing except penalise the countrys poor.
Customs
Those arriving from other EU countries have no import restrictions placed upon them, although they will need to make it known if theyre arriving with more than 10,000 worth of cash. When arriving from non-EU countries youre entitled to bring in one litre of spirits or four litres of wine or sixteen litres of beer. If arriving by air you can bring 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco, a figure thats drastically reduced to 40 cigarettes, 20 cigarillos, 10 cigars or 50g of tobacco if arriving by any other means. You cant bring meat, milk or dairy products from outside the EU except under certain circumstances. You cant arrive with live birds other than pets for non-commercial purposes. Dogs require vaccinations and passports (or other proof of vaccination). You can take home as much art as you wish tax free unless its over 50 years old, in which case expect to pay 10-20 per cent duty. Take two photographs of the art piece and your passport to the Committee of Cultural Heritage, nipiki 3, tel. (+370) 5 273 42 56. Many of the better antique shops in Vilnius can take care of all the paperwork for you. For more detailed information check www.cust.lt, and for information on animal related arrivals, check www.vet.lt.
Borders
Lithuania is bordered by the Baltic Sea, Belarus, Latvia, Poland and the peculiar Russian exclave born out of the ashes of WWII and the disintegration of the Soviet Union that is Kaliningrad. EU membership and Schengen agreements have as good as removed all border formalities with Latvia and Poland whilst getting in an out of Belarus and Kaliningrad remains wrapped up in red tape for holders of most passports. Visas for both can be obtained from the Belarusian and Russian embassies in Vilnius as well as from a few travel agencies. Visas for Kaliningrad are now available if you arrive there by air. For more information about getting in and out of Lithuania, see the website at www.pasienis.lt.
Disabled travellers
While things have greatly improved for the disabled over the past few years, Lithuania is still a tough place to get around on anything other than two well functioning legs. Even places that claim to be wheelchair friendly are often flanked by deep kerbs or stairs, or are located on cobbled streets. Outside the capital, youll be lucky to find any thought given to wheelchair accessibility at all. The newer trolleybuses in Vilnius have low entries, spaces for wheelchairs, and hearing loops.
Basic data
Population Lithuania 2,972,949 Vilnius 523,050 Ethnic composition (Lithuania) Lithuanians 83.7% Poles 6.6% Russians 5.3% Belarusians 1.3% Ukrainians 0.6% Others 3.3% Territory 65,303km2 Roughly twice the size of Belgium, and the largest of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland, peppered with many lakes. North to south, the greatest distance is 276km, east to west is 373km Borders Baltic Sea 99km Belarus 502km Latvia 453km Poland 91km Russia (Kaliningrad) 227km Longest river Nemunas 937km (475km in Lithuania) Largest lake Drkiai 4,479ha Highest point Auktasis 293.8m
Climate
The climate information below only gives an average indication of what to expect. Winter temperatures often plummet to below -20C. 30 20 10 0 -10 -20 J F M A M J J A S O N D
Temperature, C
Rainfall, mm
100 75 50 25 0
April - July 2013
Basics
Tourist information
Vilniaus 22, tel. (+370) 5 262 96 60, fax (+370) 5 262 81 69, tic@vilnius.lt, www.vilnius-tourism.lt. Tour bookings for groups and individuals, audio guides, Vilnius City Card, maps, touristrelated publications, cultural events (www.vilnius-events. lt), taxi and accommodation booking. English-, German-, Polish- and Russian-speaking staff. See their extensive website for more information. Also at Didioji 31 (Town Hall), tel. (+370) 5 262 64 70. ventaragio 2 (Cathedral Square), Rodnios Kelias 2 (Vilnius International Airport), tel. (+370) 5 230 68 41. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. J
Money & Costs

The unit of currency in Lithuanian is the litas (Lt), which comes in denominations of 10Lt, 20Lt, 50Lt, 100Lt, 200Lt and 500Lt notes, 1Lt, 2Lt and 5Lt coins and a number of weightless, worthless and perfectly useless centai/cent coins. The litas is pegged to the euro at the rate of 3.45Lt to 1. Most places of any note in Vilnius happily accept major credit cards, and ATMs joyfully spew out money to any foreigner with money in their account. If youre planning a trip to the countryside however, make sure you take plenty of cash along as it can still be rather old fashioned to say the least. Vilnius is no longer the cheap city for foreigners it used to be, although it still offers value to most visitors from the West. A good night out for two in Vilnius Old Town including a meal in a posh restaurant followed by drinks in a bar and a club to finish off wont leave you with much change, if any change at all, from 100.
V i l n i u s To u r i s t I n f o r m a t i o n (Vilniaus Turizmo Informacijos Centras ir Konferencij Biuras) B-2,
Driving
The common or garden Lithuanian driver is notable for possessing certain eccentric habits almost unheard of in the West. A typical, edge-of-the-seat adventure sat beside a local Lewis Hamilton comes with lashings of tailgating, cutting lanes and dangerous overtaking manoeuvres. It comes as no great surprise to non-Italian Westerners whove been in the country for more than a couple of days to learn that Lithuania has the highest rate of road fatalities in the European Union. If youre unfortunate enough to be involved in an accident in which any material or personal damage occurs, you must leave your vehicle exactly where it is, call the police (tel. 112) and wait for them to arrive. Even if your car is obstructing the flow of traffic, dont move it until the police get there and have danced about the wreckage with a tape measure and some lollipops, drawn some little pictures, and given you the all-clear. Not only is leaving the scene of an accident an offence, but the lack of an official police report will give insurance companies the excuse theyre looking for not to pay. Seat belts must be worn and headlights must be on at all times while driving. All vehicles must be fitted with a small fire extinguisher and carry a first-aid kit, a reflective road-side warning triangle and a reflective safety vest. You must have your vehicle registration papers and licence with you at all times. During the winter, youll also want to make sure you have an ice scraper and maybe a brush for getting all the weather off your car before you set off. Winter tyres are mandatory between November 10 and April 10. In and around town the speed limit is 50km/h unless indicated otherwise. Elsewhere you can drive at 90km/h on asphalt roads and 70km/h on dirt roads, and on highways you can drive at 130km/h until November 1, when youll have to stick to 110km/h.
Service
Anyone who spends more than a couple of days immersed in Lithuanian life cant fail to notice just how extraordinarily indifferent if not just plain rude some public servants can be. From the middle-aged lady in the post office to the waitress in the expensive restaurant youre dining in, dont be surprised to get no eye contact, and if you do get eye contact, dont be too surprised either to watch those eyes roll with utter contempt. Even the ever-increasing examples of friendly service here often come with an ineptitude of mammoth proportions, so, if youre sensitive to these things be prepared to bite your lip and suffer. If theres a culprit at work then its surely management, from the mandarins who oversee the large state organisations to the bar owners who cant be bothered to train their staff.
Smoking
If its Lithuanian and its got a lung that works then it probably smokes. Many popular international cigarette brands are readily available, and cigars, pipes, rolling tobacco and cigarette papers are also reasonably well represented. Compared to somewhere like the UK, cigarettes in Lithuania are ridiculously cheap. Lithuanias pipe-smoking former Prime Minister Gediminas Kirkilas not so long ago forgot to remember that smoking is banned in all cafs, bars, restaurants, and clubs. He should have checked our listings for venues with special smoking rooms and avoided a 1,000Lt fine.
Toilets
Just utter the two magic words kur tualetas? (wheres the toilet?) and away you go. Bars and hotels happily let you use their facilities, although some have started to enforce a small charge for non-patrons. With the exception of a few non-tourist bars, all toilets are clean and are stocked with plenty of paper and soap. A ghastly relic from days gone by that refuses to go away even in many of the swankiest establishments is the provision of a filthy bucket, kept next to the toilet, and used for the collection of spent paper.
Electricity
Lovely Lithuanian domestic electricity flows out the walls at 220V, AC 50Hz, and nearly all sockets are of the round two-pin European variety. Some thinner Russian sockets still exist, although if you push hard enough you should get the plug in. Travellers from non-socket-friendly societies should bring an appropriate adaptor, as theyre almost impossible to find in Lithuania.
Visas
Lithuania is a member of the European Union and the Schengen area. Visitors from the EU as well as from 30 or so other countries including Australia, Canada, Japan, New Zealand, Singapore, South Korea and the United States dont require a visa to stay for up to 90 days within a six month period. A visa issued for any Schengen country is also valid in Lithuania. For more information, take a look at www.urm.lt.
Local time
Lithuania is in the Eastern European Time (EET) zone at GMT+2hrs. When its 12:00 in Vilnius its 05:00 in New York, 10:00 in London, 11:00 in Warsaw, 13:00 in Moscow and 19:00 in Tokyo. Eastern European Summer Time (EEST, GMT+3hrs) falls between the last Sundays of March and October respectively.
history
The Lithuanian state arose and strengthened to counter the religious fervour of crusading German knights. Lithuania was the last European country to convert to Christianity, and has seen countless invasions and occupations over the centuries. 7th-2nd centuries BC The first Baltic tribes establish themselves on whats now known as Lithuanian territory. 11th century The word Lithuania is first used in written texts in AD 1009. At the same time, a wooden castle is built on Vilnius Gediminas Hill (Gedimino Kalnas), leading to the construction of a diminutive settlement beneath it. 13th century emaitians defeat the Livonian Knights at the Battle of Saul in 1236, establishing the settlement of iauliai. After uniting local chieftains, on July 6, 1253 Mindaugas (circa 1203-1263) is crowned Lithuanias one and only king. During his reign as the first Christian sovereign of the state, Vilnius Cathedral is built. However, the majority of the population remains pagan. 14th century In 1323 Grand Duke Gediminas (circa 12751341) sends letters to various Germanic-speaking towns, inviting their craftsmen and merchants to settle in Vilnius with the promise of religious freedom. Trying to ensure peace, in 1325 he forms a union with Poland by marrying his daughter Aldona to the Polish kings son. The Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth comes into being with the 1387 Krva Union, whereby Gediminas grandson Jogaila (circa 1348-1434) becomes a Polish king by marrying the Polish Princess Jadwiga (circa 1373-1399). Even with the increased security, the Teutonic Knights still manage to invade, resulting in the 1390 burning of the wood-constructed Vilnius. 15th century The Teutonic Knights are eventually defeated on July 15, 1410 by joint Polish-Lithuanian armies led by Jogaila and Grand Duke Vytautas (1350-1430) at the Battle of Grunwald (Lithuanian, algiris. German, Tannenberg), one of the greatest battles in medieval Europe. The country flourishes and by 1430 the borders extend from the Baltic to the Black Sea. 16th century The Renaissance sees marked cultural advances, notably the printing of the first Lithuanian book in 1547, and the founding of Vilnius University in 1579. The end of the Jogaila dynasty in 1572 results in the political and cultural marginalisation of Lithuania. Polish becomes the state language. The Livonian Wars (1558-1582) with Russia and Sweden drain the Commonwealths resources. 18th century At the start of the 18th century both Swedish and Russian forces try to seize control of Vilnius. In 1795 Lithuania is incorporated into tsarist Russia. The 120-year Russian occupation is only interrupted by a short liberation by Napoleons army in 1812 on his failed campaign to Moscow. During the Napoleonic armys return through Vilnius nearly 40,000 of his soldiers die due to starvation and extreme cold. 19th century Vilnius University acts as a hotbed of dissent against the tsarist government, culminating in the 1831 November Uprising, which leads to the closing of the institution. Russification ensues with non-Orthodox churches forcibly closed, the Lithuanian language banned in 1864 and the country named the Northwest Region. The ban on the Latin script forces the smuggling in of books from neighbouring East Prussia. Another uprising takes place in 1863 and General Muravyov (The Hangman) is sent from Moscow to restore order, resulting in deaths by hanging for most of the leading activists. The repression is countered and defied by a revival of Lithuanian culture and tradition. In 1883 Jonas Basanaviius (1851-1927) publishes the first Lithuanianlanguage newspaper, Auszra (Aura, or Dawn).
1988 June 3 The Lithuanian reform movement Sjdis is founded by some 500 representatives of the intelligentsia, advocating openness, democracy and sovereignty. August 23 Some 250,000 people gather in Vilnius to mark the 49th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact. October 7 The Lithuanian flag is raised on Gediminas Castle. 1989 February 16 Lithuanian Independence Day is officially commemorated. August 23 An estimated 2,000,000 Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians join hands in a human chain stretching the 650km between Vilnius and Tallinn to protest the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact. 1990 January 11-13 Mikhail Gorbachevs visit to Vilnius is far from pleasant as 300,000 pro-independence demonstrators turn out to welcome him. March 4 Proindependence Sjdis candidates receive an overall majority in the first free elections in Lithuania since 1940. March 11 The Supreme Council (later to become Parliament, or Seimas) declares the restoration of Lithuanian independence and demands the withdrawal of Soviet forces. Dr. Vytautas Landsbergis is elected parliamentary chairman. April 17 Moscow imposes an economic blockade.
Independence & Beyond
20th century
During the WWI German occupation of 1915 1918 the Lithuanian Council proclaims independence on February 16, 1918. As the Germans retreat, the Lithuanian state comes under attack by the Polish General Jzef Pisudski (18671935) who seizes control of Vilnius and areas south and north of it from 1920-1939. Poland maintains control of these areas by claiming they were a portion of the prewar Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. Kaunas becomes the interim capital of Lithuania until 1940. During the inter-war period independent Lithuania prospers under the 14-year dictatorship (1926-1940) of the nationalist president Antanas Smetona (1874-1944). Lithuanian independence ends with the clandestine signing on August 23, 1939 of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact between Hitler and Stalin, who carve up Europe into portions to be controlled by Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union. Lithuania is subject to both Soviet and Nazi occupation. Between 1941-1944 the Nazis and their Lithuanian henchmen organise the mass murder of over 200,000 Jews, 94% of the entire Litvak population. The return of the Red Army and the re-incorporation of Lithuania into the USSR on July 7, 1944 results in the deportation of some 250,000 Lithuanians to Siberia, a task theyd already begun in 1940 before the Nazis arrived. Lithuanian partisans, dubbed the Forest Brothers (Miko Broliai ), wage guerrilla warfare until 1953. In an act of protest against the Soviet occupation, on May 14, 1972 19year-old student Romas Kalanta sets fire to himself in public in Kaunas, dying from his wounds.
April - July 2013
history
1991 January 13 Soviet forces try unsuccessfully to storm the parliamentary building in Vilnius. A large crowd ensures the delegates are safe inside. However, during the Soviet bid to reclaim the media by storming the Television Tower, 14 people are killed. February 12 Iceland becomes the first country to recognise an independent Lithuania. July 31 Seven border guards and policemen are killed at the Medininkai border checkpoint by Soviet Special Forces. August 21 The Moscow putsch collapses. Soviet troops leave the buildings theyve occupied since January. Lenins statue is removed from Vilnius Lukiki Aikt (Lukiks Square). A photograph of the event appears on the cover of Issue N1 ofVilnius In Your Pocket, published on May 1, 1992. August 29 Sweden becomes the first Western country to open an embassy in Vilnius. September 2 The USA recognises Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia. September 17 All three Baltic countries are re-admitted into the UN. 1992 February 8 Lithuanians participate under their own flag at the Winter Olympics for the first time since 1928. 1993 June 25 Lithuanias pre-war currency, the litas, is re-introduced. August 31 The last Russian soldier leaves Lithuania. September 4-8 Pope John Paul II visits. 1994 December Vilnius Old Town joins the list of Unesco World Heritage sites. 1998 January 4 Valdas Adamkus is elected president. Adamkus, who fled Lithuania in 1944, was a senior official at the Environmental Protection Agency in Chicago before returning to Lithuania to run for president. December 21 Seimas abolishes the death penalty in response to international pressure from the EU.
Historical names
The national poem of Poland Pan Tadeusz (Lithuanian, Ponas Tadas) by the 19th-century Romantic poet Adam Mickiewicz (Lithuanian, Adomas Mickeviius, pictured) opens somewhat confusingly with the words Oh Lithuania, my fatherland! The fact that the Polish Mickiewicz referred to Lithuania as his fatherland serves as a good example as to just how linguistically and ethnically complicated and bewildering things are in this corner of the world. Consequently it should therefore come as no great surprise to learn that the Grand Duchy of Lithuania was ruled by somebody known as both Vytautas (Lithuanian) and Witold (Polish) whose capital was known as Trakai (Lithuanian), Troki (Polish) and Trok (Yiddish) and who spoke Ruthenian. Vytautas/ Witold quite possibly had kugel (Yiddish) and kugelis (Lithuanian) for lunch occasionally, and when he died was he buried in Vilnius (Lithuanian) and Wilno (Polish). A cause for much heated debate in Lithuania, not least among its more patriotic citizens, Vilnius In Your Pocket apologises for any bad feeling caused by what some may consider a misuse of some of the words used in this guide. Theres not a lot we can do about it. Adam Mickiewicz incidentally was born in whats now Belarus. 2008 June Lithuania outlaws the public display of Nazi and Soviet symbols. August While most public attention is on basketball, Edvinas Krungolcas and Andrejus Zadneprovskis win silver and bronze respectively in the modern pentathlon at the Beijing Olympics. The Lithuanian basketball team reach the semi-finals but eventually come home empty handed. 2009 Lithuania celebrates 1,000 years since its name was first mentioned in written texts. January 17 With 90Lt million of mounting debts, the national airline, flyLAL, suspends all services. Dalia Grybauskait, the so-called Iron Lady, is inaugurated as Lithuanias first female president on July 12. December 31 Vilnius bows out of a disastrous year as European Capital of Culture on the same day as the Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant closes for good. 2010 Lithuania celebrates 20 years of independence from the Soviet Union on March 11. In a sinister U-turn, on May 19 a court in Klaipda approves the public display of swastikas arguing that they represent Lithuanias historical heritage, not Nazi Germany. On June 26, at the age of 77, Lithuanias final First Secretary under the Communists and its first post-independence president dies after a short battle with cancer. Lithuania take bronze medal in the World Basketball Championship in Turkey after defeating Serbia 99-88 on September 12. 2011 Lithuania commemorates the centenary of the death of the painter and composer Mikalojus Konstantinas iurlionis. The country hosts the EuroBasket 2011 competition in cities nationwide between August 31 and September 18. Lithuania is defeated 67-65 by FYR Macedonia in the quarter finals in Kaunas on September 15. 2012 The Lithuania Under-21 basketball team become the European champions on July 22, narrowly beating France 50-49 in Ljubljana. 2013 Lithuania takes over the Presidency of the Council of the European Union for a six month period between July 1 and December 31.
21st century
2001 June 23-27 The Dalai Lama visits Lithuania, visiting various sites in Vilnius and Kaunas. 2002 February 2 The litas switches pegging from the US dollar to the euro in readiness for EU accession, into which the country is invited to join on October 9. November 22 Lithuania is invited to become a member of Nato. George Bush visits Vilnius the following day, becoming the first US president to visit the city. 2003 In the January 5 run-off election, president Valdas Adamkus is voted out of office by the 46-year-old right wing underdog Rolandas Paksas. May 10-11 A staggering 91% of the 64% of the population who turned out to vote give a resounding Yes to EU membership. 2004 Jan-April Impeachment hearings take place as president Rolandas Paksas is found guilty of violating the Lithuanian constitution and his oath as president in his dealings with unsavoury Russian business partners. April 2 Lithuania becomes a fully-fledged member of Nato and the EU on May 1. June 27 A 77-year-old Valdas Adamkus is re-elected president. July Virgilijus Alekna, whose day job is protecting the president, wins a gold medal at the Athens Olympics in the discus. December 31 The Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant says farewell to the first of its two RBMK reactors. 2007 December 21 Lithuania joins the Schengen zone, allowing borderless travel to and from other Schengen countries. December 22 The Lithuanian Television and Radio Commission bans broadcasting of the Voice of Russia radio station.

Public transport
Vilnius currently chaotic public transport system is made up of a combination of city and private buses, minibuses and trolleybuses, with most routes running daily from approximately 05:00 until 23:00 or a little later. Travelling by public transport, especially during rush hour, is not for the faint hearted. Expect at best to be poked, squeezed and trod on whilst simultaneously keeping an eye out for pickpockets. At the time of going to press, city-run buses and trolleybuses throughout the capital are undergoing a radical new system of payment methods, introduced far too early during the summer of 2012 and consequently not working properly at all. Heres what you need to know.
Arriving in Vilnius
Buy a print copy of Vilnius In Your Pocket inside the airport, bus or train station for just 6Lt. Check the Public transport information on for changes to the citys ticket system. By bus Vilnius rather depressing bus station (autobus stotis) is located less than 1km south of Old Town in a less than salubrious, albeit perfectly safe area. Not geared up for foreign arrivals in the slightest, most facilities are located inside one large grey building and include kiosks and shops for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards, downstairs toilets (1Lt) and ATMs. For 24-hour currency exchange, use the Citadele bank across the street and just to the right of the train station. A bagain for left luggage is located outside at the far end of the platforms. Getting to town Get to Old Town in a few minutes by turning left on exiting the station and walking down the hill (Sod). Countless buses, minibuses and trolleybuses can be found in the immediate area, all going off in different directions around the city and none of them offering a lot of help for people who dont speak Lithuanian. Among the useful trolleybuses going through the city centre are N2 and 5. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.50Lt. Taxis are parked up in a number of places. Be sure to negotiate a fare before you leave. Expect to pay 20Lt or even more for a short trip to Old Town. Calling one in advance is the best option. By plane Vilnius International Airport (Tarptautinis Vilniaus Oro Uostas) is just 5km south of the city centre. Even if youre landing from a non-Schengen country, arrival formalities are quick and relatively straightforward. After collecting your luggage find a compact arrivals hall complete with a kiosk for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards, ATMs, currency exchange offices and a small tourist information kiosk (Open 09:00 21:00). Toilets are to the right, and car rental companies to the left. Getting to town A taxi to Old Town using one of the vehicles parked outside the arrivals terminal will cost about 80Lt. Calling one in advance will cost considerably less. If you dont know how to do it yourself ask the people in the tourist information kiosk to order one for you. If youre travelling to the centre and dont mind roughing it with the locals, save a small fortune and take public transport. The bus stop is to the left of the taxi stand. Bus N1 goes to the train station and bus N2 to Lukiki Aikt and north over the river past the Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva. A timetable is posted at the stop. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.50Lt. Alternatively, hop on a train and in seven minutes be at the train station in the centre of the city. Buy a ticket on board for just 2.50Lt. Trains leave every hour or so from around 06:00 until 21:30. By train The train station (Geleinkelio Stotis) is fairly large by local standards and unfortunately not very well signposted in English. Find kiosks and shops for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards scattered in and around the building, free toilets downstairs, ATMs and a 24-hour Citadele bank outside to the left for changing money. The train station also has a small tourist information kiosk, which among other things features friendly staff who speak English. Getting to town Get to Old Town in a few minutes by going straight ahead on exiting the station and walking down the hill (Sod). The train station is just across the street from the bus station. See By bus for more information about getting to the centre by public transport.
Buses & Trolleybuses The vast majority of buses and trolleybuses in Vilnius are owned and operated by the city, with just two buses (N5 and N62) in private hands, a situation that perhaps goes a long way towards explaining why the new city-wide electronic ticketing system, which was supposed to be fully operational in the summer of 2012, is still a total mess. With the exception of the N5 and N62, at the time of going to press it was still possible to buy a ticket from the driver of all city-owned buses and trolleybuses for 2.50Lt for a single trip of any length. This system will continue until July 1, when either everything will be sorted out exactly 11 months late or, as were guessing, it wont. Assuming a miracle happens, to the best of our knowledge electronic tickets from kiosks will be available at the rate of 2.20Lt for any number of journeys within 30 minutes or 3.20Lt for any number of journeys within one hour. These changes are part of a plan to encourage everyone to use a reusable electronic ticket, known as a Vilnieio Kortel or e-bilietas, available from kiosks for a flat fee of 4Lt. These tickets should be topped up from kiosks and scanned on board all vehicles, for which the same amount as above will be deducted. Unless youre fluent in Lithuanian or Russian or Polish, or if youre really keen on saving a tiny amount of money during your trip, we strongly advise you simply continue to use the old paper tickets sold by the drivers. For the moment, the two previously mentioned private buses maintain their full independence. Buying tickets for these is a simple procedure involving paying the conductor a flat fare of 2Lt. Talks are currently under way to introduce the e-bilietas on board these vehicles as well, although if and when this ever happens one can only speculate. Be extra careful on all public transport in Vilnius, especially during the busy weekday morning and early evening periods. Pickpockets are known to operate and theres no discrimination when it comes to who they steal from. Random ticket inspections are a regular occurrence in the city, especially in the centre, and fines are issued with no exceptions made. Further information about the current ticket situation can be found online at www.vilniusticket.lt, a website that in true Lithuanian tradition is in the state language only.
National holidays
January 1 New Years Day & National Flag Day February 16 Independence Day March 11 Restoration of Independence Day April 20 (2014) Easter Sunday (Catholic) April 21 (2014) Easter Monday (Catholic) May 1 A day off for the workers! May 5 (2013) Mothers Day June 24 Jonins, or Midsummer July 6 Crowning of King Mindaugas August 15 olin (Assumption) November 1 All Saints Day December 25, 26 Christmas (Catholic)
April - July 2013
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Minibuses The minibus, or marrutinis taksi to give it its
correct name (you may also hear one referred to as a Latvija), is a privately-owned phenomenon as favoured in many former Soviet republics. Often but not always bright yellow, minibuses currently follow similar routes to buses and trolleybuses, are much faster, and accordingly cost a little more to use (currently 3Lt). They have no official stops, so in order to stop one you need to stand by the side of the road and get its attention by waving your arm. Likewise, you need to tell the driver when you want to get out again. At the time of going to press there are rumours that minibuses will soon fall under the same rules as the city-owned buses in Vilnius and will consequently adopt the e-ticket system (see Buses & Trolleybuses). Whether this will ever go ahead is anyones guess.
First impressions
Arriving in Vilnius on a late evening flight from Warsaw a while back we were both amused and appalled to be subjected to two consecutive incidents of breathtaking stupidity. Having crashed with a mighty bang into a large bollard on the 300-metre journey to the main airport building, the dozy shuttle-bus driver went on to abandon us at a locked terminal entrance door for 10 minutes before someone came and let us in. In a country where this kind of thing happens with alarming regularity, we immediately relegated the incident to a late night pub anecdote and left it at that. We then heard of a similar story in which a bus-load of departing travellers waiting to board their flight were left stuck like lemons on an airport shuttle bus for 20 minutes with the doors open in sub-zero temperatures. Its now almost a quarter of a century since Lithuania got its independence from the Soviet Union, and the question has to be, why is this kind of thing still going on? From the regular delivery of something you never ordered in a restaurant to the never-ending rudeness encountered in half the shops in Lithuania, as a PR exercise the country is rapidly turning into a complete disaster. The fact that even the so-called international airport is now in on the game is truly alarming. First impression as they say are often correct. Vilnius In Your Pocket apologises on behalf of the dwindling number of good people left in a country thats losing its population at an alarming if not unsurprising rate and suggests that visitors to the city stop turning the other cheek when faced with incompetence and indifference and start speaking out. Something has to change soon. If you find yourself the victim of one of the increasing incidents of idiocy in the Lithuanian capital, please let somebody in a position of authority know about it. The current wave of muddle-headedness is becoming intolerable.
Long-distance buses
All long-distance national and international buses leave from Vilnius main bus station (autobus stotis). Although tickets for many journeys can be bought directly from the driver its worth getting one in advance at no extra cost. The ticket office for national bus services is located inside the waiting room. International tickets can be bought from several different outlets found scattered around the building as well as from a number of travel agencies in the city. Backpackers and other travellers on a budget from Western Europe might be surprised to learn that bus travel in Lithuania is more expensive that using the train.
Bus Station (Autobus Stotis) B-6, Sod 22, tel. 1661, www.toks.lt. QOpen 06:00 - 19:00, Fri 06:00 - 19:30. JA Lux Express B-6, Sod 20b-1, tel. (+370) 5 233 66 QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. JA
66, www.luxexpress.eu. Also at Saltoniki 9 (Panorama).
Taxis
Despite recent creeping taxi (taksi) prices, travelling by taxi in Vilnius remains relatively cheap, especially if you order one in advance by telephone. In an attempt to stem the flow of moonlighters, all taxis in Lithuania are now instantly recognisable by their compulsory yellow number plates, although this should in no way lure anyone into believing this has changed the free-market spirit of the average taksistas (taxi driver). Taxi drivers in Vilnius are no different to taxi drivers anywhere else, and will in general take any opportunity to relieve clients of more money than they need to. The standard rule is to make sure the meter is running and set to the correct tariff (generally 1 most of the time and 2 after midnight) before setting off. Arguments with taxi drivers are futile, and there are several stories floating around of drunken foreigners being assaulted when arguing about the fare. Finally, be extremely cautious of hotels who offer deals with individual taxi companies as theyre usually set at extortionate rates. Prices listed below are for standard daytime journeys within the city limits.
Trains
Vilnius main train station ( geleinkelio stotis) handles services to a number of destinations within Lithuania as well as international trains to Belarus, Poland, Russia and Ukraine. Most tickets can be bought from a row of kiosks to the right of the main entrance. Tickets for international trains can also be purchased from a small office inside and immediately to the left of the main entrance. The general rule is that tickets are stopped being sold 10 minutes before a train is due to depart.
Ekipaas Tel. (+370) 5 239 55 39. 2.20Lt/km. Vilnius Vea Tel. 1450/(+370) 5 233 33 37. One
of the better taxi companies currently operating in the Lithuanian capital, Vilnius Vea features quality cars that are kept clean inside and out, polite drivers (most unusual in Vilnius) and the reassuring fact that theyre not going to take you for a ride in more ways than one. Recommended. Note that the numbers given here are for an operator service representing different companies. If you specifically want a Vilnius Vea taxi you need to ask for them. Q 2.39Lt/km.
Train Station (Geleinkelio Stotis) B-6, Geleinkelio

16, tel. (+370) 700 551 11, www.litrail.lt. J
Car rental
Offices representing all of the major international car rental companies can be found in Vilnius alongside a few local businesses of varying standards. All types of vehicle are represented, with many companies also offering chauffeur services. Most major driving international licences are accepted.

tel. (+370) 5 230 68 20, www.avis. lt. Also at Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport). Q Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.
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Avis E-5, Laisvs 3,
329 71, www.europcar.lt. Also at Rodnios kelias 2 (Airport). QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Hertz H-2, Kalvarij 14, tel. (+370) 5 272 69 40, www. hertz.lt. Also at Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport). QOpen 08:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA Rimas Tel. (+370) 698 216 62, rimas.cars@is.lt. Q Open 24hrs. Sixt Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 239 56 36, www.sixt.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 17:00. A
Budget Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 230 67 08, www.budget.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Easy Rental Tarands 34, tel. (+370) 5 212 36 91, www.easyrental.lt. Q Open 24hrs. A Europcar B-2, L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus 9-1, tel. (+370) 686
Air Baltic Riga International Airport, tel. (+370) 900 150 04 (for calls within Lithuania)/(+371) 670 060 06 (for calls from abroad), www.airbaltic.com. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. JA Austrian Airlines Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 210 50 30/(+370) 5 232 92 92, www.austrian.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Aviavilsa C-5, Auros Vart 19a-1, tel. (+370) 5 230 22 00, www.aviavilsa.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Brussels Airlines Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232 92 92, www.brusselsairlines.com. Estonian Air Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232 93 00, www.estonian-air.com. Finnair Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 252 50 10, www.finnair.com. LOT Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 273 90 00, www.lot.com. Lufthansa Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232 92 92, www.lufthansa.com. Norwegian Air Shuttle Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232 93 22, www.norwegian.no. SAS Scandinavian Airlines Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 230 66 38, www.flysas.com. UTair Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 233 03 30, www.utair.ru. WizzAir Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 252 50 10, www.wizzair.com.
Airlines
For business or leisure, rent your car with Sixt.

(Sixt has it all. Check sixt.lt for your best deal)
For reservations: www.sixt.lt or call +37 05239 5636
19:30. Buy a ticket on board for just 2.5Lt. A taxi from Old Town currently costs around 50Lt using a hotel-booked firm, although you can pay considerably less if you can get a friendly local to order you one from a cheaper company. By calling the right company in advance (try tel. (+370) 5 266 66 66) a recent visitor to the city managed to make the trip for just 18Lt.
Airport transfer
Baltic Travel Cars I. Simonaityts 2A-25, tel. (+370) 671
988 88, info@baltictravelcars.lt, www.baltictravelcars.lt. A wide choice of quality cars and larger vehicles available for rent, plus transfers, GPS rental and luxury limousines from a leading local company who also specialise in general tourism and entertainment activities. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Open 24hrs. A
Parking
Street parking in Vilnius is divided into four colour-coded zones, namely blue, red, yellow and green. Colour-coded parking meters eat coins and regurgitate a little printed ticket. Times when payments are required are marked on blue signs using Roman numerals to represent days, and numbers to represent times. A sign displaying I-V 8-22 for example means you must pay to park on Monday (I) to Friday (V) from 08:00 to 22:00. Signs can be hidden or placed miles away from the parking space in question. Be careful. A pay-by-SMS system is also in operation, although in order to use it you must have a local SIM card. Buy a bar-coded windscreen sticker and register it in order to use this service if youre planning on living in the city or staying for an extended period of time. Keep valuables hidden at all times, including radios if possible.
Airport
Vilnius International Airport (Tarptautinis Vilniaus Oro Uostas) Rodnios Kelias 2, tel. (+370) 5 230
66 66, www.vno.lt. Vilnius International Airport, situated approximately 5km south of the city centre, is small and relatively easy to use. A restaurant and bar can be found above the main entrance for fond farewells and devilishly expensive cognac. A limited hotchpotch of Duty Free shops and cafs are located the other side of customs control. Free wireless internet is available throughout the airport. To get there by bus (see Public transport for information on tickets), take N2 from Lukiki Aikt or N1 from the train station, or use the shuttle train service that departs from the train station every 30 minutes between 06:30 and
April - July 2013
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Emergency numbers Police Fire Ambulance Tel. 112
VilniusTransfer.com Laisvs 60, tel. (+370) 645 451
24, booking@vilniustransfer.com, www.vilniustransfer. com. Specialists in minibus, bus and car rental with or without a driver in Lithuania and further afield, plus a wide range of transfer services including private transfers, large group transfers and airport taxis. Q Open 24hrs. A
Train schedule
From Vilnius To Vilnius Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr. 04:50 06:47 IGNALINA 04:09 05:55 08:31 10:23 IGNALINA 05:15 06:52 11:22 13:15 IGNALINA 06:56 08:18 15:00 16:48 IGNALINA 08:50 10:39 16:38 18:29 IGNALINA 12:28 14:23 18:24 20:08 IGNALINA 15:16 17:11 19:32 20:54 IGNALINA 18:40 20:29 (1) 21:44 20:49 22:25 IGNALINA 20:10 (4) (7) KALININGRAD 09:55 14:26 03:38 12:01 (5) (4) KALININGRAD 11:48 16:28 09:47 18:17 (6) (5) KALININGRAD 16:37 21:19 12:12 20:23 (1) (3) KAUNAS 04:52 06:30 04:25 05:31 04:54 06:37 KAUNAS 05:32 07:20 (1) 07:35 06:20 07:35 KAUNAS 06:20 07:27 08:45 KAUNAS 06:57 08:41 08:42 10:26 KAUNAS 08:08 09:23 10:25 11:38 KAUNAS 09:09 10:40 11:15 12:29 KAUNAS 10:52 12:40 11:40 13:23 KAUNAS 12:07 13:22 13:50 15:05 KAUNAS 13:40 15:15 14:45 16:30 KAUNAS 15:22 17:10 16:30 17:34 KAUNAS 17:00 18:15 16:36 18:19 KAUNAS 17:10 19:00 17:27 18:35 KAUNAS 17:54 19:09 17:47 19:16 KAUNAS 18:43 20:29 18:30 20:14 KAUNAS 19:40 20:55 19:40 20:56 KAUNAS 20:15 21:44 KAUNAS 21:16 22:34 20:40(2) 22:11 06:45 11:22 KLAIPDA 06:50 11:34 09:41 14:40 KLAIPDA 11:50 16:34 17:40 22:17 KLAIPDA 17:05 21:54 06:05 10:05 MINSK 03:33 07:00 15:55 21:43 MINSK 05:49(4) 09:30 MINSK 07:45 09:45 16:45(4) 22:02 18:10 22:10 MINSK 18:50 20:50 MINSK 23:52(5) 03:21 21:36(5) 02:56 14:43 (7) 11:09 ST. PETERSBURG 18:22(8) 11:55 19:32 11:20 ST. PETERSBURG 20:40 08:18 06:45 09:17 IAULIAI 08:55 11:34 09:41 12:18 IAULIAI 13:51 16:34 17:40 20:12 IAULIAI 19:11 21:54 04:07 04:49 TRAKAI 05:26 06:09 (1) (1) TRAKAI 06:04 06:47 05:12 05:52 06:05 06:42 TRAKAI 07:15 07:54 07:41 08:21 TRAKAI 08:32 09:13 12:30 13:06 TRAKAI 13:21 14:00 13:29 14:05 TRAKAI 14:20 14:59 15:35 16:11 TRAKAI 16:38 17:17 18:15 18:52 TRAKAI 19:26 20:05 20:20 21:04 TRAKAI 21:28 22:11 (1) (2) (3) (4) Mon - Fri. Mon - Fri and Sun. Mon - Sat. Odd days (5) (6) of the month. Even days of the month. Only Thu and Mon. (7) Only Tue and Sat. (8) Only Wed and Sun. Correct at the time of going to press and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. More information at www.litrail.lt Valid until July 31, 2013.
Air Taxi Lakn 1, Kyviks, tel. (+370) 676 825 74, www. airtaxi.lt. Air taxi, VIP services and sightseeing flights.
Air taxi
Cycling
Lithuania is as flat as a pancake, has relatively little traffic, a bracing coastline and lots of interesting places to see and explore making it an attractive destination for cyclists. Likewise, Vilnius is criss-crossed with cycle paths, is positively overflowing with parks and wherever you are in the city youre never more than a brisk 15-minute pedal from the countryside. A well established, national nonprofit organisation exists to help cyclists in many ways. Baltic Cycle offers everything from maps, cycling tours and even bicycle rental where you can pick up a machine in one country and drop it off in another. Political cyclists in Vilnius will be pleased to hear that the city now holds its
International bus schedule

Dep. Arr. Destination Dep. Arr. 14:45 07:15 BERLIN 14:30 15:50 22:30 15:00 BERLIN 21:30 08:45 COLOGNE 10:152 14:50 14:301 16:45 LONDON 21:303 14:50 14:301 05:45 06:40 11:30 MINSK 14:00 17:00 09:00 13:40 MINSK 16:45 19:45 12:30 17:10 MINSK 19:40 22:30 10:00 17:15 PARNU 11:55 19:05 22:30 05:05 PARNU 00:20 06:55 14:45 03:15 POZNA 01:15 15:50 22:30 10:40 POZNA 18:30 08:45 ROME 15:005 08:40 20:154 11:50 ROME 19:009 09:50 17:008 07:20 06:30 10:50 RIGA 07:00 10:55 07:00 11:25 RIGA 16:00 20:35 10:00 14:30 RIGA 14:45 19:05 12:30 17:00 RIGA 12:30 17:00 14:15 18:15 RIGA 08:30 12:40 16:10 20:25 RIGA 10:35 15:00 18:30 22:25 RIGA 18:15 22:20 22:30 02:30 RIGA 02:55 06:55 6 7 19:30 STUTTGART 08:00 14:50 14:30 10:00 19:05 TALLINN 10:00 19:05 16:10 00:50 TALLINN 06:00 15:00 22:30 06:55 TALLINN 22:30 06:55 8 14:05 VIENNA 12:1510 09:50 17:00 14:45 22:10 WARSAW 06:05 15:50 22:30 05:40 WARSAW 23:05 08:45 Days of the week (1=Monday) 1 1 2 4 6 , 2 1 3 4 6 , 3 2 4 5 7, 4 4 , 5 7, 6 3 5 7, 7 2 5 7, 8 6 , 9 1 , 10 2 Correct at the time of going to press and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. Not all services listed. More information at www.eurolines.lt Valid until July 31, 2013.

very own Critical Mass (Kritin Mas) on the last Friday of every month, weather permitting, starting from Cathedral Square at 18:00 sharp.
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Local bus schedule

Birtonas 07:10, 09:30, 10:40, 12:35, 13:30, 14:40, 16:10, 18:10. Druskininkai 07:20, 08:40, 09:35, 10:00, 11:00, 12:10, 13:05, 14:20, 15:40, 16:15, 17:10, 17:55(1), 18:20, 18:40, 20:30. Kaunas 05:40, 06:20, 06:30, 07:00, 07:15, 07:30, 07:40, 08:10, 08:20, 09:00, 09:20, 09:30, 09:45, 10:05, 10:30, 10:45, 11:00, 11:30, 11:45, 12:10, 12:20, 12:35, 13:00, 13:30, 14:00, 14:35, 15:00, 15:15, 15:30, 16:05, 16:25, 17:00, 17:25, 18:00, 18:15, 18:40, 19:00 (1), 19:20, 19:45, 21:10. Klaipda 06:00(5), 06:35, 07:00(3), 07:50(5), 08:50, 10:35(2) (5), 11:35, 11:55, 12:40 (5), 13:20, 14:50, 16:00, 16:45, 17:30, 18:30. NIDA 07:00(3). Palanga 08:50, 11:00, 11:55, 13:20, 14:50, 16:45, 18:30. panevys 06:10, 06;30, 07:05, 07:50, 08:25, 09:50, 10:35(2), 11:10, 11:30, 12:00, 12:50, 13:40, 14:25, 14:50, 15:10, 15:50, 16:30, 17:00, 17:20, 17:40, 18:05, 18:35(1), 19:20, 19:30(3), 19:45(3), 20:15(3). iauliai 06:30, 07:50, 09:50, 11:00, 11:10, 12:00, 13:00, 14:25, 15:20, 16:05, 17:40, 18:15, 18:25(1), 19:20. Trakai 07:10, 08:20(2), 08:55(2), 09:15, 09:30, 09:45, 10:40, 12:10, 12:35, 13:00, 13:30, 14:00, 14:40, 15:20, 16:10, 16:40, 17:00, 17:45, 18:10, 18:45(4), 20:00.
(1) Fri, Sun. (2) Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat. (3) Sun. (4) Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun. (5) September 1 - June 1. Valid until July 31, 2013. Not all services listed. Correct at the time of going to press and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. The website at www.autobusubilietai.lt is the best resource for up-to-date, accurate information about travelling by bus in Lithuania.
VeloCity Tours & Rent C-5, Auros Vart 7, tel. (+370) 674 121 23, info@velovilnius.lt, www.velovilnius.lt. A local organisation that rents bicycles, organises city tours by bicycle, provides maps and information about cycling in the city, sells used bicycles, runs a self-repair workshop and bicycle repair shop (both at Kauno 5) and organises free cycling events. Their daily bicycle tour All Sides of Vilnius begins at 11:00 at the rental point Auros Vart 7.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Open 09:00 - 21:00 (from April till September). Also at Kauno 5. Open 14:00 - 18:00. Sun by appointment only. JA
877 54, www.veloklinika.lt. Tucked away in a courtyard on the small street connecting Kudirkos with Pamnkalnio, this highly recommended bicycle repair workshop is staffed mostly by young gentlemen listening to Bob Marley with the addition of one older fellow doing most of the work. All maintenance and repair work is undertaken, all of it to a high standard and for a good price. Also bicycles and accessories for sale. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
Veloklinika.lt G-4, A. Domaeviiaus 7, tel. (+370) 606
Travel agencies
Most of the following companies provide services for onward travel or simply for taking a holiday. Some, such as Kelvita, can also arrange visas for Russia and Belarus.
Amber Tours H-4, Pamnkalnio 34b, tel. (+370) 5 275 69 85, www.ambertours.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Baltic Clipper G-3, Gedimino 64, tel. (+370) 5 231 23 23, www.bc.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Baltic Tours Vilnius G-3, Vaingtono a. 1, tel. (+370) 5 266 16 16, www.baltictours.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun. JA Sat, Sun. JA
Baltic Travel Service Lufthansa City Center C-5, Subaiaus 2, tel. 1593, www.bts.lt. QOpen 08:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA BPC Travel H-3, Konstitucijos 12, tel. (+370) 5 210 25 90, www.bpctravel.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA CWT Lithuania H-3, Konstitucijos 20, tel. (+370) 5 231 49 59, www.carlsonwagonlit.com. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA Delta A-1, A. Vienuolio 12, tel. (+370) 5 210 74 44, www.deltakeliones.lt. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA Kelioni Panorama I-3, eimyniki 21, tel. (+370) 5 261 87 26, www.kelioniupanorama.lt. QOpen 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Krantas Travel A-1, A. Vienuolio 6, tel. (+370) 5 231 33 14, www.krantas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA Lithuanian Holidays B-00, eimyniki 1a, tel. (+370) 5 263 60 64, www.lithuanianholidays.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Closed Sat, Sun.
Lithuanian Tours B-00, eimyniki 18, tel. (+370) 5 272 41 54, www.lithuaniantours.com. QOpen 09:00 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:45. Closed Sat, Sun. JA Ryanair Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232 93 77, www.ryanair.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Senamiesio Gidas C-5, Auros Vart 7, tel. (+370) 5 261 55 58, www.vilniuscitytour.com. QOpen 09:30 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 15:00. JA Sofa Travel G-4, Jasinskio 16a, tel. (+370) 5 246 16 50, www.sofatravel.lt. Also at Konstitucijos 15-5. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA The Beautiful Land Of Nevermind D-3, Uupio 23-9, tel. (+370) 616 200 07, www.nevermind.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. JA Vilnius Travel Service G-4, J. Jasinskio 4-15, tel. (+370) 5 249 65 42, www.vilniustravel.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Visit Lithuania B-2, L. Stuokos Guceviiaus 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 52 41, www.visitlithuania.net. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA Wrislit B-5, Rdnink 16, tel. (+370) 5 210 76 61, www. wrislit.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.JA April - July 2013
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Trakai
the owners have put their money where many others mouths are and actually gone and taken a risk in Trakai. A combined hotel, conference centre, water park and many other things besides, the rooms are clean and comfortable, all coming with cable television, free wireless internet and showers that knock you over when you walk in. The price includes two hours in the water park and an average buffet breakfast. A taxi to the Castle will set you back around 10Lt. Q103 rooms (180 - 360Lt). PHARUFLBKDCW hhh
Back to nature
gmail.com, www.camptrakai.lt. Situated on the northernmost tip of Lake Galv (Galvs Eeras), facilities include places to pitch tents and park caravans as well as a range of good value wooden chalets and rooms. Electricity is available for all, plus theres a small caf and even conference facilities. Its a fair way out of the town, but the tranquillity of the location and spectacular views more than make up for it. A taxi in and out of town costs 10-15Lt. Q41 rooms. Camping 25Lt/night. Chalets, rooms 80 - 250Lt/night. Breakfast not included. TH6ILBKDW Several ludicrously cheap buses leave daily from Vilnius bus station, starting before dawn and running until the early evening. The journey time is around 30-40 minutes. Trakais bus station is a shabby concrete shell with no facilities whatsoever. As with the train station (see below), its also a ridiculously long way away from the main sights, a good 20-minute walk north up Vytauto. Starting and ending around the same time as the buses although running less frequently, trains take about 40 minutes to make the journey and cost buttons. Taxis are usually parked outside both the bus and train stations. A trip to the centre shouldnt cost more than 5Lt. To reach Trakai by road, take the A1 (E85) highway west out of the city, followed by the A4 in the direction of Druskininkai before turning on to the A16 (E28) highway which takes you the rest of the way. Driving time depends on traffic, and can take anything from 20 minutes to an hour or more. A taxi, if called in advance, will cost 60-100Lt.
Slnis Slnio 1, tel./fax (+370) 528 538 80, slenyje@
Where to eat
To visit Trakai and not eat kibinai is like going to Japan and circumventing the noodles. As well as the aforementioned Karaite speciality, the town can also provide sustenance from one or two other corners of the world. Dont expect too much in the way of fine dining, but do be thankful that you wont have to pack sandwiches. What little nightlife there is in Trakai tends to take place in its restaurants, although a couple of clubs do open for the summer. If in doubt, ask a local.
Georgian
Pirosmani Karaim 2, tel. (+370) 528 561 78, www.
Where to stay
Trakais accommodation options run the gamut from leaky tents to presidential suites complete with wireless internet and Jacuzzis. The only exception is that the town remains without a youth hostel, although for good value central accommodation youll be pleased to know that every other house has a room or two to rent.
pirosmani.lt. Named after Georgias most famous painter, this large round restaurant overlooks one of the towns lakes and can be found on the walk into town on the left of the main road. The menu is bursting with classic and extremely good Georgian food, plus theres a small barbecue outside which churns out spectacular grilled meat during the summer. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 15Lt. PTULNBSW
Tourist information
Tourist Information Centre Vytauto 69, tel. (+370) 528 519 34, trakaiTIC@is.lt, www.trakaivisit.lt. Staffed by friendly, knowledgeable locals, come here for armloads of brochures and information on current cultural events, places to stay and lots more. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. Open Mon 09:00 - 17:00, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 15:00 (from May 1) Trakai Historical National Park Information Bureau Karaim 5, tel. (+370) 528 557 76, senieji -
Apvalaus Stalo Klubas Karaim 53a, tel. (+370) 528 555 95, fax (+370) 528 517 60, info@asklubas.lt, www. asklubas.lt. About as feminine as it gets, a night here is like something straight out of Alice In Wonderland. Overlooking the fairytale Gothic towers of the Castle, the interiors appear to have been designed by a committee of hairdressers and old ladies. If you can handle the frill of it all, extras include a sauna, two attached restaurants and wireless internet throughout. This is truly the cream of the crop, and by far the most expensive option in town. Q17 rooms (210 - 870Lt). PTHAR6ULBKDW hhhh Trasalis Gedimino 26, tel. (+370) 528 515 88, fax (+370) 528 515 89, hotel@trasalis.lt, www.trasalis.lt. A veritable monster of a place 2km south of the town centre, Vilnius In Your Pocket
Hotels
trakai.lt. They can and will organise excursions inside the 8,200-hectare park. These are the people to see if you need a camping or fishing permit too. They also stock a number of brochures, postcards, souvenirs and maps. Hard to miss, find it located inside the large blue wooden former Post Office building. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
trakai
Karaite
least popular of Trakais kibinai restaurants features a bland interior and as such is overlooked by many, which is a shame because their Lithuanian Karaite food is extremely good. As with all the best restaurants in this category, the kibinai here are made and cooked to order, so dont drop by if youre in a hurry. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. 30Lt. PTNBS
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Kibin alis Karaim 57, tel. (+370) 645 593 70. The
Kybynlar Karaim 29, tel. (+370) 528 551 79, www.kybynlar.lt. In a word, magnificent. This hugely popular Karaite restaurant is a must-see for anyone visiting Trakai. Alongside their delicious classic beef or mutton (not lamb, as it says on the menu) kibinai is a small collection of other Karaite dishes plus a few more of Turkic origin. Highly recommended is the orpa, a fabulous soup complete with big lumps of beef and potato and just a hint of spicy warmth. The small winter restaurant expands to mammoth proportions during the summer, making for a truly lively place to eat and drink. They even do take-away. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Mon 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. 15Lt. PTAUBSW
65, w w w.kibinas.lt. Like a beer kellar wi thou t the drunken Germans, Trakais oldest Karaite restaurant churns out endless hot kibinai with various fillings including a vegetarian option to an appreciative audience of locals packed inside a wooden house like families of sardines. Its a long way off from getting a Michelin star yet, but if you dont mind a spit-and-sawdust atmosphere, people treading on your toes and the possibility of having to dine under the stairs, bingo, this is a Trakai institution worthy of a visit. Other Lithuanian food is also available. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00. 4 - 20Lt. TABS
Senoji Kibinin Karaim 65, tel. (+370) 528 558
What to see
Theres still some way to go before Trakais up there with Paris and Barcelona, but compared to how it was not so long ago the towns cultural offerings have simply ballooned. The Castle is the obvious draw, but do make time to see a few of the other treats the town has to offer.
Castle
more or less the same time that its military importance came to an end after the victory of the combined PolishLithuanian armies led by Vytautas against the Teutonic Order at the Battle of Grunwald (Lithuanian, algiris) in 1410. Its second life as a residential palace saw it enter a golden age, with the Castle visited and admired by many foreign dignitaries including the Flemish diplomat Guillebert de Lannoy (1386-1462), who mentioned it favourably in his memoirs. The Castles demise came with the war with Muscovy in 1655, which saw it seriously damaged and eventually abandoned. Attempts to rebuild it have been ongoing since the 19th century, with the usual wars and border changes complicating each new project as it arose. Ironically it was during the Soviet occupation of Lithuania that the Castle was eventually restored to its former glory, with work beginning soon after the end of WWII. Reached by crossing two footbridges and one island, Trakai Castle is essentially two structures, namely the defensive outer section and the Ducal Palace. Entrance to the island and area around the Castle is free.
Castle & Trakai History Museum (Trak Pilis ir Trak Istorijos Muziejus), tel. (+370) 528 539 46,
Drawing mild comparisons to the vast, red brick Teutonic fortress in the Polish town of Malbork, Trakai Castle (or Trakai Island Castle as its also known) may not be as grand as its Germanic cousin to the west, but what it lacks in stature it more than makes up for in location. Sat splendidly on a diminutive Lake Galv island in the northern end of the town, construction on this Gothic masterpiece began in the 14th century at the behest of the then ruler of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania Kstutis, and was completed at the start of the 15th century by his son, Vytautas the Great. Built as part of an expansion programme of the neighbouring Peninsular Castle, its completion came at
www.trakaimuziejus.lt. More like playing a giant game of snakes and ladders designed by MC Escher than an enriching cultural experience, the Trakai History Museum is spread around the Castle and linked via a baffling array of higgledy-piggledy wooden steps and dark, plunging spiral staircases. The two main collections are to be found inside the western casemates (casements) and the Ducal Palace, the former and least interesting made up of 19th-century European glassware, ivory walking stick handles and the like and the latter a collection of items dug up in the vicinity of the Castle, a huge collection of coins, a small exhibition dedicated to the Karaite and a few life-size models of medieval gentlemen with enormous handlebar moustaches. Some explanations are in English, but much remains in Lithuanian, Russian and German only. More than worth it for a look around the Castle if nothing else. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00 (until April 30). Closed Mon. Open 10:00 - 19:00 (from May 1). Admission 15/10/7Lt.
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Trakai
as the Trakai Madonna and which is reputed to have magic powers. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Mass 17:00 (Polish), 18:00 (Lithuanian), Sun 10:00 (Polish), 12:00 (Lithuanian).
Museums
rooms dedicated to the life, history, culture and memory of the offshoot Karaite communities of Lithuania, Poland and Ukraine, highlights include an array of heart-stopping and extraordinary black and white Karaite photographic portraits, a Lithuanian Karaite prayer book translated into English and examples of Karaite national dresses. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 4/2Lt. Sacred Art Museum Sco
Karaite Ethnographic Museum (Karaim Etnografijos Muziejus) Karaim 22, tel. (+370) 528 552 86. Three small
Houses of worship
Biruts 5, tel. (+370) 528 559 07, www.trakubaznycia. lt. A church of one sort or another has stood on this site since 1409, with the usual history of fires and wars paving the way for additions and reconstructions over the centuries, the churchs current Baroque form dates from 1717. Of particular note inside is the 16th-century painting on the main altar, the Blessed Virgin Mary with Child, which is also known
Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (v. M. Marijos Apsilankymo Banyia)
Kstuio 4, tel. (+370) 528 539 45, www.trakaimuziejus.lt. Housed inside a former chapel that forms part of a 19th-century Dominican monastery which itself lies inside the territory of the Peninsula Castle, this small museum on three floors features a wealth of religious paintings, chalices, statues and other items connected to the Catholic Church from the 16th to the 20th century from Lithuania and Western Europe. Look for the wooden tower behind the bright blue Trakai Historical National Park Information Bureau building. The museum is hidden away immediately behind this. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 4/2Lt.
Sacred Art Museum (Sakralinio Meno Muziejus)
The Karaite
Most certainly not to be confused with the much larger world Judaic Karaite movement, the Lithuanian Karaite (or Karaim, or even sometimes Karaimic) are as perplexing as the confusion surrounding their name suggests. Settled in Trakai from the Crimea by Grand Duke Vytautas at the end of the 14th century, the Lithuanian Karaite form the chain in a bizarre link connecting the two distant and contradictory worlds of Lithuania and Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq), the birthplace of the original Karaite movement. The original Karaite were a puritanical Jewish splinter group who among other things rejected the Talmud and who somehow initiated the conversion to the Karaite faith of several Turkic tribes living on the Black Sea shores in the 13th century. It was some of these ethnically Turkic families who came to Trakai and other parts of the then Grand Duchy of Lithuania, first as bodyguards and later as successful farmers and market gardeners. Granted Magdeburg rights by Casimir IV (Lithuanian, Kazimieras) in 1441, the Lithuanian Karaite in Trakai have, much like Trakai itself, suffered swings of both good and bad fortune over the centuries, and have even found time to court controversy, namely during the Nazi occupation of Lithuania during WWII (1941-1944) when the then head of the Lithuanian and Polish Karaite movement Sereya Shapshala (1873-1961) famously handed over a list of the names of all Karaite members in order to protect them from the fate of the Jews. In the mid-1930s, Germanys fledgling Nazi party formally defined the Karaite as not Jewish under the malevolent and sinister 1935 Reich Citizenship Law, a historical fact used by many Eastern European Jews during the Holocaust, who attempted to disguise themselves as Karaite in order to stay alive. Shapshalas List as it became known effectively sealed the fate of many Lithuanian Jews, and continues to be an emotive blot on relations between the communities. Lithuanian Karaite religion is based on the Jewish faith with the above-mentioned differences. Originally all religious services were conducted in Hebrew inside a kenesa, which has many similarities to a synagogue but which also witnesses a number of startling disparities including the necessity to remove footwear before entering the building, something known universally in the Islamic faith but entirely alien to Judaism. The Lithuanian Karaite language that eventually replaced Hebrew as the official religious language is a unique intermingling of the original Turkic tongue spoken by the community mixed together with local Lithuanian and Polish inclusions. Like the Lithuanian Karaite themselves, the language is dying, with what few remaining members of the total Lithuanian count of around 250 Lithuanian Karaite integrating with Western society. At this rate its only a matter of time before the community and its culture are gone forever. Trakai remains the spiritual home of the Lithuanian Karaite movement, and shamelessly exploits the Karaite myth for the purposes of tourism. Visitors are treated to a watered-down version of Lithuanian Karaite culture including all of the sights listed here and not forgetting the infamous kibinai, the miniature Cornish pasty-type signature dish of Lithuanian Karaite cuisine and the traditional Lithuanian Karaite wooden houses along the street named after them complete with three windows facing the road. At present there remain about 50 Lithuanian Karaite living in Trakai. Those wanting to know more about a dying race of people, who it could be argued bridge the gap between the Jewish faith and Islam, should contact the Lithuanian Karaite Community House in Trakai via the communitys website at www.karaimai.lt.
trakai
Places of interest
Peninsula Castle Predating the Island Castle by a few
decades and located nearby on the southern shore of Lake Galv, the Peninsula Castle met the same fate as its younger brother but as yet hasnt received the same kind of rehabilitation. At the height of its activity, the defensive Peninsula Castle covered an area of four hectares and had an impressive 14 towers. Not much of it remains, although some renovation work has been carried out. The Peninsula Castle territory now plays host to the towns intriguing little Sacred Art Museum.
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Trakai Historical National Park

One of a total of five national parks in Lithuania, at just 8,200 hectares Trakai Historical National Park is the smallest but by no means the least interesting. Set amidst gently rolling hills formed during the last Ice Age about 14,000 years ago, the park contains a total of 32 lakes, some truly spectacular scenery, one or two ethnographic sights of particular interest and the town of Trakai itself. A population of 14,000 rosy-faced locals, of whom many remain tied to the land, sprinkle the park with humanity, giving it an agreeable lived-in feel lacking in many other rural areas in the country. The proud recipient of national park status in 1992, Trakai Historical National Park is currently awaiting news of its application to become a Unesco World Heritage site. Things in its favour include its aforementioned comeliness and the town inside it that gives it its name, woodlands brimming with wildlife, traditional farmsteads and villages, manor houses, heaps of fresh air and a sense of having gone back in time. Things against, of which there are few, include a continuing lack of infrastructure and a patchwork of narrow, hairpin-strewn roads occupied by drivers whove seemingly lost the will to live and wish only to take you with them. For more information about the park, visit the Trakai Historical National Park Information Bureau in Trakai or browse the parks website online at www.seniejitrakai.lt.
Senieji Trakai
The Lithuanian capital for seven medieval years before handing the baton over to Trakai, and an interesting excursion for those with a developed interest in either the history of Trakai or obscure Eastern European rural churches, Senieji (Old) Trakai, 6km or so southeast of Trakai, boasts two sights worthy of further investigation for the hardcore tourist. The town itself is a dull square of not particularly pretty wooden houses punctuated with the occasional Soviet monstrosity and sliced through the middle by the first point of interest, Trak, a continuation of the road from Trakai that at the time of writing (December 2008) was completely dug up as part of a beautification process that will see the street become a tourist attraction in its own right. Trak is lined with mostly wooden houses and supposedly represents many elements of a typical Dzkai village. You decide. At Traks southernmost tip as it curves around to the right is the site of the towns once grand castle. This was the birthplace of Vytautas the Great, who in 1405 built a monastery here and settled an order of Benedictine monks inside. The castle is long gone, but the monastery remains, albeit in a poor state. In the 19th century part of the monastery was converted into a neo-Gothic church, which functions as Senieji Trakais main house of worship. Its relatively plain interior complete with peeling paint provides a rare glimpse inside small-town Eastern European religious faith. Both the monastery and church are undergoing renovation work, but the church can still be visited. Senieji Trakai provides no other forms of enlightenment or entertainment and cant even boast a caf. After spending an hour or so here, its not hard to see why they moved the capital up the road. The train station is 1km north of the church and monastery. To get from the former to the latter, turn right on exiting the station followed by the first left onto Trak and follow the road all the way down.
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Culture & Events

Events
April 8 - May 19 Sugrimai The international music festival Sugrimai (Coming Back, or Returning) has been an annual spring event in Vilnius since 1999. A predominantly classical affair, performers are mostly but not exclusively Lithuanian. See www.lmrf.lt for more information. April 18 Ellie Goulding The English singer-songwriter and multi-instrumentalist Ellie Goulding makes a one-night appearance in the excellent Loftas (part of Men Fabrikas, see p.21). Find out more online at www.menufabrikas.lt. April 18 - 19 Login Now in its eighth year, Login is the largest tech gathering in the Baltic States. This years theme is The Game Changers, with events focusing around changing ideas, concepts, products and services within the industry. Featuring over 70 speakers and attracting some 3,000 visitors, the 2013 keynote speaker will be none other than the co-founder of Apple, Steve Wozniak. The weekend of activities also includes the Lithuanian Internet Awards and a big party. Everything will be taking place inside the huge Litexpo centre on the edge of the city. For more information about whats going on as well as ticket prices and how to get there, take a look at the Litexpo website at www.litexpo.lt. April 18 - 20 Cirque du Soleil - Alegra The internationally acclaimed circus franchise who need no further introduction will be staging their new show with the help of 55 performers, artists and musicians from around the world. Alegra promises the usual ostentatious costumes and high camp frollicking. See them towards the end of April inside the citys Siemens Arena (see p.20). April 26 Patricia Kaas Kaas Chante Piaf You dont exactly need a degree to work out what this ones all about. If you like Kaas and youre fond of Piaf then youre in for a double treat. The French singer and actress will be performing more than 20 songs made famous by Edith Piaf for one night only at Vilnius Pramog Arena (see .20). May 4 Lord of the Dance A modern-day Nuremberg Rally with taps shoes, we dont get it at all, which almost certainly puts us in a minority so well keep our mouth shut as soon as weve written that Michael Flatleys award-winning thing comes to the Pramog Arena (see p.20) on May 4. May 6 - 12 New Baltic Dance The international contemporary dance festival New Baltic Dance has been around for a decade and half so they must be doing something right. First organised in 1997, the festival began with a few participants from the former Soviet republics and has since grown to embrace dance companies from all over the world. Events take place in several venues around the city. See www.vilnius-events.lt for more information. May 9 Europe Day Celebrating Lithuanias Europeness along most of the citys main street, Gedimino, this years event sees a raft of fun and activities for people of all ages and tastes. Find out more online at www.europosdiena.lt. May 16 - 19 African Days 2013 Vilnius celebration of African culture is back again between May 16 and 19. Events include everything from music to dance to cinema as well as discussions and exhibitions and much more. See www.afrikosdienos.lt for a full run down of whats on this year.
Jonins
Photo by Gediminas Savickis The Feast Day of St. John the Baptist, a universal Catholic festival celebrated annually on June 24, is known in Lithuanian as Jonins. A veritible mishmash of religious and pagan observations, the festival takes place around the same time as the longest day of the year and starts on the evening before with singing and dancing before sunset, telling old folk tales, jumping over bonfires and the consumption of alcohol. Traditionally, young maidens wear wreaths in the hair which are later floated on the nearest river or lake. The whole spectacle attracts thousands of people in Vilnius and around the country in general, and is worth seeking out. Since 2007 the capital has played host to a related Herb Market (olyn Turgus), which takes place this year over the weekend of June 22 - 23. Over 100 herbalists, traditional pharmacists and folk artists will be setting out their stalls along Gedimino. The website at www.etno.lt has more information on the latter. For details on where to find the best Jonins celebrations, ask the good people at Vilnius Tourist Information (see p.6) nearer the time, or, if you feel like celebrating in a more bucolic environment, why not visitthe celebrations taking place in Lithuanias ancient capital a few kilometres north of the city in Kernav. Read all about it at www.kernave.org.
Photo by Gediminas Savickis
Culture & Events

May 18 European Championship of Latin American Dance Ensembles No less than 20 of Europes top ensembles from 15 different countries are expected to converge on Vilnius on May 18 for this major event. Taking place inside the citys Siemens Arena (see p.20), no more concrete information was available at the time of going to press. Keep an eye on their website for more information. May 19 Street Music Day A well established fixture on the capitals yearly calendar, Street Music Day features a wealth of performers of all types playing for free in outdoor venues all over the city. Spilling out into cities all over the country, find out more online at www.gmd.lt. May 23 - 26 Skamba Skamba Kankliai First taking place 40 years ago, the annual international folklore festival Skamba Skamba Kankliai features several days of singing and dancing to traditional ensembles and other performers in courtyards and concert space around the city. See www.etno.lt for more. May 31 - June 15 Vilnius Festival 2013 A positively huge celebration of classical and other serious music as well as jazz and musical theatre, this annual event brings together performers and composers from all over the world for two weeks of concerts and other related events. Far too much to list here, keep an eye on www.vilniusfestival. lt for further information. June 4 Lana Del Rey The multi award-winning singer-songwriter and former wild child Lana Del Rey comes to Vilnius for the first time on June 4, performing for just one night inside the citys Siemens Arena (see p.20). June 7 - 9 Trakai Summer 2013 A weekend of cultural and other activities for all the family takes place in Trakai (see p.14) between June 7 and 9. Check out www.trakai-visit.lt to see what its all about. June 15 - 16 Trakai Medieval Festival More fun and games are to be had in Trakai (see p.14) in June, this time in the form of a medieval-themed series of events around the Peninsula Castle in the centre of town. Find knights in armour, traditional games for the kids and much more besides. More information at www.trakaimuziejus.lt. June 23 - 30 ArtVilnius13 Find out more about the world of contemporary art in Lithuania and neighbouring countries by visiting the large ArtVilnius 13 event at the citys vast Litexpo centre (see p.92). More information online at www.artvilnius.com. July 1 - August 28 Christopher Summer Festival 2013 An astonishingly varied festival of concerts celebrating music of just about every genre that doesnt require a drum kit, the Christopher Summer Festival has been impressing audiences in the city for years and years. Definitely one worth further investigation. Take a peep at the festival website at www.kristupofestivaliai.lt to find out more. Events take place in venues around the city. July 5 Culture Night An extension of the now well established museum nights that take place all around the world, Vilnius excellent Culture Night opens the citys museums after dark for a series of intriguing events and also features many other activities from open-air film screenings to church concerts. Highly recommended, see www.kulturosnaktis.lt for more information. July 27 Depeche Mode They may be past their sell-by date in Western Europe but theyve never been more popular here. Playing for one night only in the superb outdoor atmosphere of Vingio Parkas (see p.72), book tickets on www.ticketpro.lt today before theyve all gone.
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Arts & Crafts
Amat Gildija B-4, Prancikon 6, tel. (+370) 5 212 05 20/
(+370) 645 380 44, www.amatugildija.lt. The ceramic artist Mindaugas Rutkauskas is almost completely blind yet manages to produce some great ceramics from classic earthenware crockery to complete ceramic stoves. He shares this workshop with several other artists. Feel free to have a look around. Also at S. Skapo 3 - 34. QOpen 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J Jonas Bugailikis Art Studio C-5, Auros Vart 17-10, tel. (+370) 652 366 13. A local mini-celebrity knocking out all manner of fabulous wooden eccentricities based on a combination of traditional Lithuanian folk art and the contents of a very unique mind. The studio is now also home to Bugailikis dau gh ter, th e pain ter Aist Bu gailik y t-Kapoien. Q By appointment only. J
April - July 2013
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Culture & Events

38 11, www.menonisa.lt. Art to hang on your body as opposed to your wall, this combined gallery and workshop presents some of the best examples of the work of Lithuanian goldsmiths. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J Molio Laum A-4/5, Naugarduko 20, tel. (+370) 699 424 56, www.ceramics.w3.lt. The ancient art of black ceramics brought to life inside this intriguing little hands-on gallery. Buy examples of the craft or attend one of their regular workshops. Q Open 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Tautodailininko Dirbtuv G-4, J. Basanaviiaus 29, tel. (+370) 687 906 50, www.klaidaspapercuts.lt. Folk artist Klaidas Navickas works as a lawyer during the day and creates some exquisite works of art using just a scalpel and piece of paper in his spare time. Known in Lithuanian as karpiniai, this old craft, which has been used to decorate homes during special celebrations for centuries. Q Open 17:00 - 20:00, Fri 16:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun call in advance. J Uupio Galerija D-3, Uupio 3-1, tel. (+370) 5 231 23 18, www.uzupiogalerija.lt. A tiny gallery dealing in exclusive jewellery from a range of Lithuanian artists. A combined workshop and gallery, youll usually find somebody working there, wholl be only too pleased to explain what theyre up to. QOpen 11:00 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA Uupio Kalvysts Galerija - Muziejus X-3, Uupio 26, tel. (+370) 687 512 55, www.vilniauskalviai.lt. A small working gallery dedicated to the art of the blacksmith. Watch people at work, buy something as a unique gift or souvenir or ask about their regular workshops. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Meno Nia A-3, J. Basanaviiaus 1/13, tel. (+370) 5 231
cluding the aforementioned orchestra as well as the iurlionis String Quartet and the chamber ensemble Musica Humana to name but a few. Q Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon. JA Piano.lt B-4, Trak 9/1 (entrance on Kdaini), tel. (+370) 5 203 28 91/(+370) 613 947 70, www.piano. lt. Hidden away down an Old Town backstreet, this small concert hall arranges concerts of many types including classical and jazz. J Pramog Arena E-2, uolyno 9, tel. (+370) 5 242 44 44, www.pramoguarena.lt. A large ice-skating rink on the outskirts of the city that also hosts the occasional concert. Q Box office open 14:00 - 20:00. Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Siemens Arena H-1, Ozo 14, tel. 1588, www.siemensarena.lt. The quintessential all-purpose arena staging everything from international basketball matches to big name rock concerts. A B-3, Vilniaus 30, tel. (+370) 5 262 04 21, www.kultura. lt. A city-owned concert space inside a magnificent, converted 18th-century Baroque church. Concerts are varied and often very good indeed. J Teatro Arena I-3, Olimpiei 3, tel. (+370) 683 773 57, www.teatroarena.lt. The main venue for the OKT theatre company (see Theatres), this large place on the edge of town is also a concert venue among other things. J B-1, Vilniaus 6/16, tel. (+370) 5 261 88 28, www.lvso. lt. Home to the Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra, this city-centre venue features some fine acoustics and organises everything from serious classical concerts to shows for children. Q Box office open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
St. Catherines Church (v. Kotrynos Banyia)
Vilnius Congress Hall (Vilniaus Kongres Rmai)
Cinemas
Films are usually shown in their original language with Lithuanian subtitles. www.forumcinemas.lt. Mostly popular Hollywood films inside a dedicated multiplex close to the city centre. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 10:30 - 22:00. JA Multikino H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 219 53 78, www.multikino.lt. Hollywood blockbusters inside a large shopping centre. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A Pasaka B-3, v. Ignoto 4/3, tel. (+370) 5 261 15 16, www.kinopasaka.lt. A compact Old Town cinema specialising in predominantly independent and/or arthouse films from a wide range of directors including Woody Allen and the interesting Lithuanian film maker Janina Lapinskait. JNW Skalvija H-3, A. Gotauto 2/15, tel. (+370) 5 261 05 05, www.skalvija.lt. The best place in the city for arthouse and underground cinema and meeting people who like it in the attached caf-bar. Q Box office open an hour before the event. JNW
Cultural centres
Forum Cinemas Vingis G-4, Savanori 7, tel. 1567,
American Center G-4, Akmen 9, tel. (+370) 5 266 54 12, vilnius.usembassy.gov. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, British Council J-3, Antakalnio 2, tel. (+370) 5 246 29 58, www.britishcouncil.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Danish Cultural Institute B-3, Vilniaus 39, tel. (+370) 5 212 24 12, www.dki.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 French Institute C-3, Didioji 1, tel. (+370) 5 219 96 96, www.institutfrancais-lituanie.com. QOpen 09:00 Goethe Institute B-2, Gedimino 5, tel. (+370) 5 231 44 33, www.goethe.de/lietuva. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
17:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Library open 13:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Closed Sat, Sun. Tue 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Italian Cultural Institute C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370) 5 261 10 76, www.iicvilnius.esteri.it. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Concert halls
(+370) 5 261 26 91, www.lmta.lt. The place to come and see performances by the cream of the countrys next generation of professional musicians. Concerts including established performers and conductors from Lithuania and abroad also take place here from time to time. J
Lithuanian Music & Theatre Academy (Lietuvos Muzikos ir Teatro Akademija) G-3, Gedimino 42, tel.
Nordic Council of Ministers Office (iaurs Ministr Tarybos Biuras) C-3, Didioji 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 22 11, www.norden.lt. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00,
14:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
jos Informacijos ir Kultros Centras) G-4, M. K. iurlionio 82b, tel. (+370) 5 231 04 65, www.lt.embjapan.go.jp. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Japanese Information & Cultural Centre (Japoni-
Lithuanian National Philharmonic (Lietuvos Nacionalin Filharmonija) C-5, Auros Vart 5, tel.
(+370) 5 266 52 33, www.nationalphilharmonic.eu. Featuring a concert hall and a smaller chamber hall, the Lithuanian National Symphony Orchestra was established in 1940. Concerts are performed by a range of ensembles in-
23, tel. (+370) 5 264 93 32, www.lenkijosinstitutas. lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Russian Cultural Centre C/D-3, Iganytojo 2/4, tel. (+370) 5 212 32 36, www.rkc.lt. QOpen 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
Poland Institute (Lenkijos Institutas) C-4, Didioji
Culture & Events

Galleries
Academy (Akademija) C-3, Pilies 44/2, tel. (+370)
5 261 20 94, www.vda.lt. The gallery of the Vilnius Art Academy hosts all manner of contemporary shows by artists from home and abroad and is always worth a look inside. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J
21
Centras) C-4, Vokiei 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 19 45, www.cac.lt. Vilnius very own monstrous carbuncle on the face of an old friend, this 1968 concrete masterpiece conceals one of the countrys leading galleries for both Lithuanian and international contemporary art. Surplus to the 2,400 square metres of exhibition space, the Contemporary Arts Centre also organises conferences and lectures, features a superb reading room and hosts a rather good bar. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4Lt. JU Jewelry Art Studio C-4, Stikli 4, tel. (+370) 615 899 29. A tiny gallery close to the Town Hall in the centre of Old Town selling a range of Lithuanian-produced contemporary arts and crafts including jewellery from some of the top names in the country, paintings and graphic art. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J Terra Recognita C-3, Stikli 7, tel. (+370) 612 444 79, http://www.facebook.com/galerijaterrarecognita. An interesting gallery representing the work of the contemporary and conceptual Lithuanian artist Saulius Vaitieknas. Much of his work is both fun and thought provoking and is generally available for sale. Vaitieknas latest show, Welcome Back to the Future, featuring new works made in stone and metal plastics, opens in April and runs until September. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. J TaDas F-3, Kstuio 51, tel. (+370) 685 555 25, www. gutauskas.lt. The weird and occasionally wonderful world of the Lithuanian artist Tadas Gutauskas, this gallery is given over entirely to his painting, sculpture and other media. Bordering on the nave and childlike, Gutauskas work is colourful to say the least and all of it is for sale. Q Open by appointment only. Titanikas D-2, Maironio 3, tel. (+370) 5 210 01 36, www.titanikas.com. A series of exhibition halls owned and curated by the neighbouring Vilnius Art Academy, exhibitions run the gamut from student shows to serious work from home and abroad in just about every conceivable medium. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J Vartai B-3, Vilniaus 39 (Vilniaus Mokytoj Namai), tel. (+370) 5 212 29 49, www.galerijavartai.lt. Arguably the best and most influential contemporary gallery in the country. Find works in all media by the top Lithuanian artists working in their fields. Vartai also organises exhibitions by artists from abroad. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J Znad Wilii D-3, Iganytojo 2/4, tel. (+370) 5 212 30 20, http://znadwiliiwilno.lt. A Polish ar t gallery displaying and selling paintings, books and the Polishlanguage newspaper of the same name. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. JA
Contemporary Arts Centre (iuolaikinio Meno
Terra Recognita/Saulius Vaitieknas. Welcome Back to the Future (2013)
Vienuolio 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 07 27, www.opera.lt. A stunning construction opened in 1974 and offering the whole range of works. Worth a look inside even if you dont plan on attending anything. Q Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:30, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. JA
Lithuanian National Opera & Ballet Theatre (Lietuvos Nacionalinis Operos ir Baleto Teatras) A-1, A.
Opera & Ballet
Prospekto Galerija G-3, Gedimino 43, tel. (+370) 5 261 83 38, www.photography.lt. Owned and run by the Lithuanian Photographers Union, Prospekto Galerija is a hit and miss affair but really worth the effort just in case. Exhibitions range from the sublime to the awful, often let down partially by the artists themselves who submit badly presented work thats often lit with no thought to the work. Theres also a small shop where you can buy books and postcards featuring the work of many famous and obscure Lithuanian art, news and documentary photographers past and present. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Photography
Theatres
Almost all performances are in Lithuanian or Russian. Some theatres provide occasional simultaneous translation. Check to make sure before booking tickets.
Independent cultural centres
Men Fabrikas G-5, vitrigailos 29, www.menufab-
rikas.lt. An independent, non-profit cultural centre based inside a fabulous old factory providing creative opportunities, outlets and events for the community including parties, fashion shows, educational seminars, film screenings and much more. Also known as Loftas (The Loft), find them on Facebook (currently in Lithuanian only) for more information and details on upcoming events. Q Working hours depend on repertoire. Entrance 15 - 100Lt. J
Arts Printing House (Men Spaustuv) D-2, iltadario 6, tel. (+370) 5 204 08 32, www.menuspaustuve.lt. Housed inside a former tsarist-era printing house this intriguing centre features two theatre halls, a place to collect and spread ideas and rehearsal rooms for various performers. J Domino Theatre (Domino Teatras) G-4, Savanori 7 (Forum Cinemas Vingis), tel. (+370) 656 863 83, www.dominoteatras.lt. The brainchild of a small collective of like-minded local thespians, this very Lithuanian affair puts on shows inside a cinema. Q Box office open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00. April - July 2013
22
Culture & Events

Opera & Ballet
April
Gytis Ivanauskas Theatre info@giteatras.lt, www.
Opera
3 4 13 17 20 24 26 6 11 27 18:30 18:30 18:30 18:30 18:00 18:30 18:30 18:30 18:30 18:30 18:30 18:30 18:30 18:30 18:30 12:00 The Marriage of Figaro W. A. Mozart. The Marriage of Figaro W. A. Mozart. La Traviata G. Verdi. Eugene Onegin P. Tchaikovsky. The Valkyri R. Wagner. The Flying Dutchman R. Wagner. Lohengrin R. Wagner. The Merry Widow F. Lehr. The Bat J. Strauss. The Bat J. Strauss. Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky. Barbora Radvilait S. Vaininas, A. Malcys, H. M. Grecki and other composers. Desdemona A. Shenderov. Red Giselle P . Tchaikovsky, G. Bizet, A. Adam, A. Schnittke. Tristan & Isolde R. Wagner. Snow White & The Seven Dwarfs B. Pawlowski. Cinderella S. Prokofjev.
giteatras.lt. The brainchild of the still relatively young dancer, actor and choreographer Gytis Ivanauskas, this interesting experimental company are worth looking out for. Currently theyre without a home but perform regularly around the city. Ll Puppet Theatre (Vilniaus Teatras Ll) C-4, Arkli 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 86 78, www.teatraslele. lt. This inspired puppet theatre for children of all ages has been charming audiences in Vilnius since the company was founded way back in 1958. Q Box office open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. J 618 757 80, www.teatras.lt. Pretty much what it says it is, the Lithuanian National Drama Theatre promotes theatre from home and abroad and stages it in two venues inside the same building. Look for the three muses guarding the main entrance. Q Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. J 5 262 05 52, www.rusudrama.lt. The only professional theatre in the country staging works exclusively in the Russian language, this fine old building also hosts other events including part of the annual Vilnius Jazz Festival. Q Box office open 10:45 - 18:30, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. N Meno Fortas D-2, Bernardin 8/8, tel. (+370) 5 231 21 10, www.menofortas.lt. An Old Town theatre given over entirely to the visionary antics of the infamous Lithuanian theatrical director Eimuntas Nekroius. Works include everything from Shakespeare to original works. J
Lithuanian National Drama Theatre (Lietuvos Nacionalinis Dramos Teatras) B-2, Gedimino 4, tel. (+370)
Operetta
Ballet
5 10 12 18 19 7
Lithuanian Russian Drama Theatre (Lietuvos Rus Dramos Teatras) H-4, J. Basanaviiaus 13, tel. (+370)
For Children
14 12:00 May
Opera
2 8 10 18:30 18:30 18:30 18:30 18:30 18:30 18:30 18:30 12:00 12:00 12:00 12:00 LElisir dAmore G. Donizetti. Eugene Onegin P. Tchaikovsky. The Bat J. Strauss. The Blue Danube J. Strauss. Red Giselle P . Tchaikovsky, G. Bizet, A. Adam, A. Schnittke. iurlionis G. Kupreviius. iurlionis G. Kupreviius. iurlionis G. Kupreviius. Cipollino K. Chachaturian. The Tiny Lingonberry J. Tamulionis. Burattino J. Gaiauskas. Burattino J. Gaiauskas.
moteatras.lt. Founded in 1966 the National Youth Theatre stages works of all kinds from the classics to experimental to innovative reworkings of original stories. Q Box office open 11:00 - 14:00, 14:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. J www.okt.lt. Dedicated to modern theatre and modern interpretations of the classics. See their website for when and where theyre performing. J
National Youth Theatre (Valstybinis Jaunimo Teatras) C-4, Arkli 5, tel. (+370) 5 261 61 26, www.jauni-
OKT/Vilnius City Theatre (OKT/Vilniaus Miesto Teatras) B-4, Amenos 8, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 99,
Operetta Ballet
9 11 24 25 26 4 12 18 19 June 5 9 13 20
61, www.senamiescioteatras.lt. Founded during the final days of the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1989 the theatre specialises in recreating the public-spirited theatre of the 16th and 17th centuries. With a varied repertoire, the company performs almost exclusively in public outdoor spaces.
Vilnius Old Town Theatre (Vilniaus Senamiesio Teatras) A-5, Naugarduko 20, tel. (+370) 687 916
For Children
98 69, www.vmt.lt. Only finding a permanent home in 2005, this interesting theatre company who stage a wide range of predominantly contemporary works are based inside a glorious building in the city centre. Worth a look around even if youre not attending a performance. Q Box office open 11:00 - 15:00, 16:00 - 18:30. Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. J
Vilnius Small State Theatre (Valstybinis Vilniaus Maasis Teatras) A-1, Gedimino 22, tel. (+370) 5 249
Opera
19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 La Traviata G. Verdi. Carmen G. Bizet. Eugene Onegin P. Tchaikovsky. The Bat J. Strauss. Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky. Tristan & Isolde R. Wagner. The Blue Danube J. Strauss.
Opera & Ballet continued

For Children
6 2 12:00 19:00 Cipollino K. Chachaturian.
Operetta Ballet
12 16 19
Concert
Creative Impulse II. Choreographic Miniatures by LNOBTs Ballet Artists. Performances take place at the Lithuanian National Opera and Ballet Theatre (see p. 21). More info at www. opera.lt
Where to stay
Vilnius provides a wide selection of accommodation options in all parts of the city. Prices remain lower than in Western Europe, sometimes considerably lower, meaning staying right in the centre is always an option. Booking a room in advance is recommended, especially so during the summer. (+370) 5 255 33 55, fax (+370) 5 255 33 11, hotel@ ramadavilnius.lt, www.ramadavilnius.lt. Delicious opulence meets high standards of modernity. As youd expect from a five-star hotel, the rooms are nothing short of spectacular, featuring classic antique designs mixed together with the latest technology such as flat screen televisions, DVD players and voicemail. Theres also a wellness centre, conference facilities and even an umbrella in every room. A celebrity favourite, past guests include Enrique Iglesias, Sting, Jean Michel Jarre, Chris Rea and Limp Bizkit. Q55 rooms (128 - 348). PTJHAR6UIFLKDXW hhhhh
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Ramada Hotel & Suites Vilnius C-5, Subaiaus 2, tel.
Symbol key
P Air conditioning O Casino T Child-friendly F Fitness centre R LAN connection K Restaurant D Sauna I Fireplace A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking 6 Pet-friendly J Old town location C Swimming pool W Wifi
VAT (21%) and breakfast included unless otherwise stated
Kempinski Hotel Cathedral Square C-2, Universiteto 14, tel. (+370) 5 220 11 00, fax (+370) 5 220 11 20, reservations.vilnius@kempinski.com, www. kempinski.com/vilnius. Located opposite the Cathedral and tantalisingly close to one of the best Indian restaurants in Eastern Europe, writing a Kempinski review seems a little daft as they specialise in some of the best hotels to be found anywhere. Surplus to the location, the Vilnius Kempinski comes with 96 magic rooms and suites, exceptional restaurant, bar, luxury spa, meeting facilities and an awful lot more. If youre one of the lucky few who can afford to stay here we most certainly recommend that you give it a try. Q96 rooms (690 - 12,085Lt). PJHARULK DCW hhhhh Le Mridien Vilnius 19km north of Vilnius on the VilniusRiga A2 highway, Eeraiio village, Vilnius district, tel. (+370) 5 273 97 00, fax (+370) 5 273 97 30, info@ lemeridienvilnius.com, www.lemeridienvilnius.com. Just minutes out of town and, in terms of spaciousness, views and facilities, in a class of its own in the Baltic States. All rooms have been recently renovated and still offer aromatic furniture and soft, luxurious wall-to-wall carpeting. Also find marbled bathrooms, climate control, minibar, writing desk, satellite television and lovely views over vast and lovely grounds that give you a feeling of being away from it all. Conference facilities are outstanding and can dazzle up to 3,000 delegates with nearregal luxury and technical wizardry. The spa, pool and sports centre is also superb. Check the photos on the website to really appreciate what youll be getting here. Q192 rooms (90 - 450). PTHAR6UIFLKDXCW hhhhh
Cream of the crop
Relais & Chateaux Stikliai Hotel C-3, Gaono 7, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 95, fax (+370) 5 212 38 70, sales@ stikliaihotel.lt, www.stikliai.com. Occupying a sumptuous building with Gothic and Baroque elements, the Stikliai is where millionaires have been taking themselves for a very long time indeed. Old fashioned in most senses of the term, the fully air-conditioned rooms come with such treats as satellite and cable television, internet, mini bars and Turkish baths in the best suites. Sauna, pool, conference facilities and an equally ostentatious restaurant can also be found here. It doesnt come much better than this. Q43 rooms (158 - 1100). PJHAR6UIFLKDXCW hhhhh The Narutis Hotel - Preferred Boutique C-3, Pilies
24, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, fax (+370) 5 262 28 82, reservations@narutis.com, www.narutis.com. Totally gorgeous in every conceivable way, room interiors include everything from original 16th-century frescoes and wooden beams to Jacuzzis in the suites. Decorated with the ultimate in style and panache, theres no need to roll off a list of everything in the rooms because theyve really got it all. Add to that a location to die for, impeccable service, a fine restaurant and a magical spa and, if you can afford it, youd be a nutter to stay anywhere else. Q53 rooms (170 - 640). PJHARUKDCW hhhhh
Amberton Hotel B-2, L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus 1, tel. (+370) 5 210 74 61, fax (+370) 5 210 74 60, vilnius@ amberton.lt, www.ambertonhotels.com. It could be made of damp straw and the restaurant could serve nothing but cabbage and youd still probably book a room once you saw the view. Not that it is made of damp straw we should point out, and of course the restaurants pretty good too. Expect free internet in the rooms, minibars and all mod cons, good mannered staff and two of the best restaurants in the city next door in fact. An absolute winner for both facilities and location. Q98 rooms (220 - 700Lt). PJHARULKXW hhhh
(+370) 5 266 03 66, fax (+370) 5 266 03 77, artis@ centrumhotels.com, www.centrumhotels.com. Perfectly located between Old Town and Gedimino, this large white birthday cake-looking hotel has been catering to a better class of guest for years. Surplus to the marvellous views from the upper front rooms are air-conditioning throughout, Pay TV, internet access and for the nervous, peepholes in all the doors. Good for healthy-minded visitors, the hotel also manages to pack in a gym and swimming pool. Q108 rooms (79 - 200). PJHARUFLKDXCW hhhh
Upmarket
Artis Centrum Hotels B-3, Liejyklos 11/23, tel.
Radisson Blu Astorija C-4, Didioji 35/2, tel. (+370) 5
212 01 10, fax (+370) 5 212 17 62, sales.vilnius@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius. The name, building and location say it all, as indeed does the list of the great and the good who choose to stay here when in town. A beautiful collection of rooms and suites are on offer, some with spectacular views of Old Town. Top notch accommodation with all the trimmings, plus business facilities, swimming pool, express laundry, a French restaurant and a bar selling some of the freshest local beer in the city. Q119 rooms (99 - 750). PJHARUFKDXCW hhhhh
April - July 2013
24
Where to stay
Star spangled banter
This guide uses the star system as defined by the Lithuanian Department of Tourism, in which stars are awarded for amenities offered, and dont necessarily reflect the quality of those amenities or the standard of service provided.
Atrium C-2, Pilies 10, tel. (+370) 5 210 77 77, fax (+370) 5 210 77 70, hotel@atrium.lt, www.atrium.lt. One of the favourite choices of visiting big-wigs and other VIPs, Atrium blends together the antiquities of Old Town with the very best of modern hotel accommodation to great effect. Complete with minibars, heated bathroom floors and everything else youd expect when handing over this much money in return for a bed for the night, extras include conference facilities, sauna, a cracking little Argentinean restaurant and arguably the best location in Vilnius. Q30 rooms (60 - 160). PJHA6ULKDW hhhh Best Western Vilnius A-00, Konstitucijos 14, tel. (+370) 5 273 95 95, fax (+370) 5 273 95 00, office@vilniushotel. eu, www.vilniushotel.eu. Located in the heart of the citys main business district just north of the river, the four-star Best Western Vilnius is accordingly geared towards business travellers although theres no reason why anybody else cant stay there either. A wealth of tastefully decorated rooms plus a gorgeous apartment with its own sauna are available, all coming with wireless internet, satellite television, minibars and other treats. A taxi to Old Town costs less than 10Lt. Q114 rooms (200 - 899Lt). PHA6FLKDXCW hhhh Congress B-0, Vilniaus 2/15, tel. (+370) 5 269 19 19, fax (+370) 5 251 42 80, info@congress.lt, www. congress.lt. If this hotel was a person, it would proudly strut about and puff its chest out. And rightly so. Everything has a neat, tidy confidence about it, and even if youre in a standard room, the place has an elegant yet business-class feel about it. We also like the free wireless internet. After a good nights rest youll be ready to take on the town, and will find yourself conveniently located mid-way between Old Town and the new business district north of the river. Q80 rooms (300 - 1,000Lt). PJHAFLKDW hhhh Conti B-5, Raugyklos 7/2, tel. (+370) 5 251 41 11, fax (+370) 5 251 41 00, info@contihotel.lt, www.contihotel. lt. A good choice of singles, doubles, business class rooms, suites and apartments inside a well located hotel boasting a splendid jumble of old and new. Rooms come with the absolute minimum of internet connections, satellite television and minibars with add-ons including such opulence as a Jacuzzi in the luxury room and apartments. The lobby cafs a nice place for quiet drink, plus the upper floors provide some fabulous views of the city. Q88 rooms (70 - 275). PJHARUFLKDXW hhhh
5 274 34 01, fax (+370) 5 274 34 11, hotel@cpvilnius.com, www.cpvilnius.com. The only remaining features of Inturists flagship Hotel Friendship are the foundations, one or two arty internal elements and the views, the latter being some of the greenest and most pleasant in the city. Plonked west of the centre on the edge of one of the capitals finest parks, this business class box is a favourite among professionals travelling individually or as part of a group who are there to use the fine conference facilities. The 16th-floor restaurant-bar offers one of the prettiest places to get plastered in Lithuania. Q108 rooms (60 - 140). PHA6UFLKDXCW hhhh
Dvaras (Manor House) C-1, Tilto 3-1, tel. (+370) 5 210 73 70, fax (+370) 5 261 87 83, hotel@dvaras.lt, www.dvaras.lt. Celebrating the former manor house status of the building its located in, Dvaras is a small hotel with grand ideas, noticeable in everything from the dcor to the price. Just eight rooms, from singles to luxury suites, are on offer, all given an old world treatment and all coming with lifes little luxuries. Theres a couple of fancy restaurants as well, all of it packaged together just a two-minute walk from the Cathedral. Q8 rooms (76 - 143). PJHARLKW hhhh
5 272 22 50, fax (+370) 5 272 21 34, info@embassyhotel.lt, www.embassyhotel.lt. Close to perfect, other than the fact that its not very close to the centre of town, this clean, crisp and fresh hotel is ideal for anyone who wants to relax in a quiet location. The rooms are modestly but comfortably decorated with a tidy style, and the in-house caf-bar-restaurant is glass-roof open and airy. Free internet throughout. An excellent choice for anyone who has business that requires attendance at any of the nearby embassies or who doesnt mind spending a little extra time getting in and out of the city centre. Q28 rooms (55 - 105). PHAR LKDW hhhh
Embassy Hotel Balatonas F-3, Latvi 38, tel. (+370)
Europa Royale Vilnius C-5, Auros Vart 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 07 70, fax (+370) 5 261 20 00, vilnius@ europaroyale.com, www.groupeuropa.com. The Europa chains flagship Vilnius hotel continues to offer high standards of service in an admirable Old Town location thats hard to beat. The choice of individual rooms and suites is impressive, with even the most basic featuring mini bars, free wireless internet, air-conditioning and satellite television. Also find meeting rooms, international press and the fabulous Medininkai restaurant. One of the better places to stay in town if you can afford it. Q54 rooms (79 - 230). PJHA6ULKXW hhhh Grotthuss B-5, Ligonins 7, tel. (+370) 5 266 03 22, fax (+370) 5 266 03 23, info@grotthusshotel.com, www.grotthusshotel.com. This self-proclaimed aristocratic boutique hotel in a quiet Old Town street contains 20 rooms and suites complete with Italian furniture, original art on the walls, wireless internet, minibars and satellite television. Favoured by well-heeled visitors who like the personal touch, the hotel also features an in-house gourmet restaurant and state of the art business facilities. Q20 rooms (376 - 860Lt). JHARLKXW hhhh
00, fax (+370) 5 210 30 01, holiday-inn@ibc.lt, www. holidayinnvilnius.lt. Hugely popular with visiting Americans who like the assurance of something theyve slept in before, this world classics Vilnius incarnation is located just north of the river close to the business district. Swish and decidedly modern, the rooms all have that typical Holiday Inn feel, plus theres an excellent little bar at street level complete with complimentary press where its possible to spend an entire evening watching the world go by and drinking the night away on your companys expense account. A taxi ride to Old Town is about 15Lt during the day. Q134 rooms (140 - 280). PHARUFLKDXW hhhh
Holiday Inn B-00, eimyniki 1, tel. (+370) 5 210 30
Crowne Plaza Vilnius F-4, M. K. iurlionio 84, tel. (+370)
Mabre Residence D-3, Maironio 13, tel. (+370) 5 212
20 87, fax (+370) 5 212 22 40, mabre@mabre.lt, www. mabre.lt. Found inside a fabulous former monastery, some of it dating back as far as the 17th century, this swanky hotel can be found on the border of Old Town and Uupis inside a lovely quiet courtyard. Geared towards all types of traveller with a healthy bank account, rooms veer from more than
Where to stay
adequate singles to the wonderful (and surprisingly affordable) presidential suite. Surplus to the rooms are all manner of treats, from the recommended sauna and small pool to the in-house steak restaurant. Q40 rooms (408 - 992Lt). PJHAR6ULKDXCW hhhh (+370) 5 212 22 99, book@neringahotel.com, www. neringahotel.com. The superb Neringa hotel stands out as one of the city centres major business-class hotels. The Scandinavian-styled rooms come in both standard and superior classes, offering good value whilst still managing to provide everything the modern business traveller requires. Extras include a selection of international newspapers and magazines, a small pool and the fabulous Neringa restaurant complete with original Soviet frescoes dating from 1959. Q60 rooms (55 - 159). PJHAR6ULKDXW hhhh 5 266 62 00, fax (+370) 5 266 62 01, h5209@accor. com, www.novotel.com. Great comfort and four-star luxury from the international Novotel chain inside a large modern building in the heart of the city. Choices of rooms include Superior and Executive class as well as a handful of suites, all of them light and spacious, with many featuring magnificent Old Town views. Facilities inside the rooms all include free internet and a number of other excellent facilities. The hotel also features a good restaurant, bar, sauna, fitness centre and business options in a total of seven rooms complete with full services. Q159 rooms (79 - 221). PTJHA6UFKDXW hhhh (+370) 5 211 33 57, info@parkvilla.lt, www.parkvilla. lt. Located in almost certainly the best location for a hotel in Vilnius, Park Villa sits among pine trees on the edge of a river by a popular sandy beach. In the exclusive Valakampiai district, the hotel features rooms in several categories from the excellent value singles through to the Deluxe complete with whirlpool and a jolly super view of the river. Theres also a decent in-house restaurant and another restaurant next door. A 15-minute drive from the city centre, youll need a map to find it as signposts simply dont exist. Q30 rooms (150 360Lt). THA6LKDXCW hhhh tel. (+370) 5 272 62 72, fax (+370) 5 272 62 70, info. lietuva.vilnius@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/ lietuvahotel-vilnius. The citys flagship 80s Soviet hotel received an enormous renovation several years ago and now boasts the best of two worlds. Located on the north bank of the Neris in the heart of the main business district, this 22-floor beauty is quality business class accommodation indeed. The rooms are bright and fresh, theres a vast conference capacity space, the in-house restaurant is very good indeed and the bar on the top should be on everybodys list of places to visit regardless of whether theyre staying in the building or not. Brilliant. Q291 rooms (75 - 500). POTHARUFLKDW hhhh tel. (+370) 5 266 58 85, fax (+370) 5 266 58 86, info@ shakespeare.lt, www.shakespeare.lt. To book a room, or not to book a room, that is the question. Dickens, Joyce, Shakespeare of course and Tolstoy all have rooms named after them in this literary-themed hotel in one of the quietest and nicest streets in Old Town. Surplus to the excellent facilities in the rooms, guests all get a free present on arrival, plus theres a rather good restaurant and a refreshingly peaceful and recommended bar to boot. Q31 rooms (360 - 760Lt). PJHAR6LKXW hhhh
25
Camping
For a list of campsites around Lithuania, see the excellent www.camping.lt.
Neringa A-1, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 212 22 88, fax
Vilnius City Camping Parod 11, tel. (+370) 629 722 23, vilnius@camping.lt, www.camping.lt. Close to the centre in a secluded green area near the Neris river, find room for about 100 tents and camper vans. Facilities include electricity, communal bathrooms, washing machines, barbecue and even internet access. An excellent choice for budget travellers who want to get away from it all but who still want to be close to the action. Trolleybuses N1, 3, 7 and 16 all stop nearby. Q Open from May 1 until Sep 10. 16Lt/person plus tent (12Lt) or camper (40Lt).
Novotel Vilnius Centre B-2, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370)
fax (+370) 5 212 25 08, hotel@aaa.lt, www.hotelinvilnius. lt. A small, family-run hotel in a quiet Old Town backstreet, this place has been garnering constantly good opinions seemingly forever. And for good reason. With a boutique hotel feel, local art on the walls and the now almost standard inclusion thats free wireless internet, Mano Liza offers a personal touch lacking in many similar places. Those who stumble back in at dawn should take advantage of their much talked about all-day breakfast. Q8 rooms (47 - 122). JA6KW hhh
AAA Mano Liza B-5, Ligonins 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 22 25,
Mid-range
Park Villa Vaidiluts 6a, tel. (+370) 5 211 33 56, fax
Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva A-00, Konstitucijos 20,
AirInn Vilnius Hotel Rodnios Kelias 8, tel. (+370) 5 232 93 04, fax (+370) 698 139 09, info@airinn.lt, www. airinn.lt. Its been a long time coming and finally its happened. The former not very recommended hotel right next door to the airport has recently received a full makeover and has been reborn as a respectable place to stay aimed at business travellers who need to get up at the crack of dawn and others who presumably like sleeping next to a runway. Four classes of room are available, all coming with wireless internet, minibars and widescreen televisions, plus theres a host of communal features including bar, restaurant, conference facilities and sauna. For what you get the prices seem very reasonable, so if youre on an early flight out of the city you might want to think about spending another 30 minutes asleep and staying here. Q115 rooms (186 - 345Lt). HA6FLKDW Alexa Old Town Hotel C-5, Pylimo 53/2, tel. (+370) 5 219
17 80, fax (+370) 5 278 40 95, reservations@hotelalexa. eu, www.hotelalexa.eu. The quintessential Lithuanian mixed bag accommodation option, by all accounts the people who work here are a charming bunch and the rooms are all perfectly fine for the price, even if one of two of them are a very strange shape. Close to the bus and train stations in a slightly lugubrious part of town, pitfalls include wireless internet you have to pay for and a lack of places to eat in the immediate area. Q34 rooms (120 - 450Lt). JHA6ULKW hhh
Shakespeare Boutique Hotel D-2, Bernardin 8/8,
Algirdas City Hotels G-5, Algirdo 24, tel. (+370) 5 232 66 50, fax (+370) 5 232 66 54, info@algirdashotel.lt, www.algirdashotel.lt. Located inside a grand-looking building close to the action and tantalisingly near to a clutch of superb Chinese restaurants and a 24-hour supermarket, the Algirdas boasts everything necessary for a comfortable stay. The well appointed rooms all come with en suite facilities, wireless internet and a choice of extras according to price including refrigerators and kettles in the deluxe rooms. The in-house restaurant also churns out a menu of better than average food plus the staff on reception are extremely helpful. Q42 rooms (190 - 390Lt). PJHAULKW hhh April - July 2013
26
Where to stay
Apia Hotel B-3, v. Ignoto 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 34 26, fax (+370) 5 212 36 18, apia@apia.lt, www.apia.lt. A small, family-run hotel in a wonderful location in the heart of Old Town close to several good bars and restaurants, all rooms include free internet access and satellite television plus theres guarded parking and a friendly staff to help with whatever you need. Located inside a collection of fabulously restored 17th century buildings, news filtering back from previous guests suggests this one is definitely worth further investigation. Q12 rooms (203 - 320Lt). JAR6LW hhh
08 60, fax (+370) 5 266 08 63, hotel@centrokubas.lt, www.hotel.centrokubas.lt. Angels, windmills, farming implements and an altogether rustic feel inside another favourite Vilnius hotel. Small enough for the personal touch to still shine through yet not too small to cram plenty of useful gadgets in the rooms. Hidden away down a wiggly Old Town street a few metres from the historic centres main thoroughfare, it may not be the cheapest option around but if youre planning on visiting regularly they do offer a good discount scheme. Q14 rooms (60 - 124). JHAR6ULW hhh (+370) 5 210 73 07, hotel@citygate.lt, www.citygate. lt. Close to the Dawn Gate, just outside Old Town and looking not unlike part of the set from Gunfight at the O.K. Corral, this lovely little hotel affords a healthy space between itself and the chaos of Friday night whilst still being just across the road from the sights. The rooms are decent, all coming with free wireless internet, plus theres three conference halls to contemplate for prospective visiting business travellers. Q29 rooms (195 - 450Lt). PJHAUILKXW hhh that there ever was, featuring compact, modern and well thought out rooms, all coming with internet connections and en suite bathrooms, plus conference facilities for up to 60, guarded parking, sauna and two different places to eat and drink. Located at the top of the hill a good 15-minute walk from Old Town inside a modern building, the location may not be the best in town but, especially if you get one of the less expensive rooms, it does offer excellent value for money. Q34 rooms (35 - 123). PHARUFLKDW hhh
Centro Kubas - Angel C-4, Stikli 3, tel. (+370) 5 266
Europa City Vilnius G-4, J. Jasinskio 14, tel. (+370) 5 251 44 77, fax (+370) 5 251 44 76, vilnius@europacity. lt, www.europacity.lt. The perfect budget business class hotel, featuring comfortable rooms with all the conveniences from satellite television and minibar to top security card keys and internet connections. Add-ons include a fitness centre to keep in trim whilst youre working abroad, conference facilities and a white tablecloth restaurant. Q128 rooms (49 - 99). PHAR6UFLKDXW hhh Europa Stay Vilnius E-2, uolyno 7, tel. (+370) 5 236 22 22, fax (+370) 5 236 22 33, vilnius@europastay. com, www.europastay.com. Lots of bright blues and greens more than make up for the dull journey required to get to and from this budget class hotel a good 20 minutes from the city centre. Europa Stay Vilnius is the latest offering from the Europa hotel chain, a commendable and professional outfit whove applied the same business sense to their less exclusive hotels they do to the others. The 101 rooms are all en suite and come with satellite television and wireless internet. Health fans will be happy to discover the hotel is located inside a large sports centre. Q104 rooms (31 - 65). PTHAR6UFKDW hhh Grata Hotel G-4, Vytenio 9/25, tel. (+370) 5 268 33 00,
fax (+370) 5 213 27 60, hotel@gratahotel.com, www. gratahotel.com. Its a bit of a safari to reach reception but once you do finally manage to find it youll be glad you did. Refreshingly welcoming, the hotel, perched on top of the hill not too far from Old Town, is geared towards the business traveller but that doesnt mean you have to wear a suit to stay here. The rooms, which famously boast a computer in every one, feature classic business hotel blue carpets, en suite bathrooms, satellite television and minibars. A swimming pool is also available, plus there are further business facilities and the added bonus of a bowling alley across the street. Q101 rooms (120 - 350Lt). HAR6ULKDXCW hhh
City Gate C-5, Bazilijon 3, tel. (+370) 5 210 73 06, fax
Comfort Hotel Lt A-6, Mindaugo 27/14, tel. (+370) 5 250
51 11, fax (+370) 685 989 20, co.vilnius@choice.lt, www. comforthotel.lt. Opened towards the end of the summer in 2012, Comfort Hotel LT offers flat screen televisions, heated bathroom floors, free wireless internet, free tea and coffee 24 hours a day and a lot more, all of it refreshingly close to the action and, best of all, all available for one of the best prices in town for the class. The in-house restaurant gives the option of eat-all-you-can buffet food, plus theres even more free stuff in the form of a gym thats open around the clock. Definitely a welcome addition to the city and very much worth further investigation. Q200 rooms (55 - 105). PHA6UFLKW hhh
Comfort Vilnius B-5, Gli 5, tel. (+370) 5 264 88 33, fax (+370) 5 264 88 32, reservation@mikotelgroup.com, www.mikotelgroup.com. Simplicity and style get together and have a bit of a cuddle in this bare-basics but nonetheless comfortable little hide-away. Basically its a cheap-stay option with nice little touches (such as light-proof curtains and free parking) that other budget beds come without. A quality bargain. Q57 rooms (86 - 125). JHAW hhh
48 80, fax (+370) 5 264 48 78, domusmaria@vilnensis.lt, www.domusmaria.lt. Excellent value Old Town accommodation inside a 17th century former Carmelite monastery, find 39 well appointed rooms including singles, doubles, triples, quads and luxury, some with splendid views and all with televisions, internet connections and en suite bathroom facilities. Theres conference facilities available for those who need them plus an in-house caf where meals can be ordered throughout the day. Q39 rooms (55 - 92). JHARULKW hhh
Long term rental

Note that many of these places are also available for short-term rental - check the prices at the end of the reviews. Dominikon 13, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 95, fax (+370) 5 212 38 70, apartments@stikliaihotel.lt, www. stikliai.com. Luxuriously furnished apartments inside a 16th- and 17th-century building available for both shortand long-term rental. Tastefully decorated and located in the same building as the Relais & Chateaux Stikliai hotel, apartments come fully equipped with lounge, kitchen, bathroom, one or two bedrooms plus satellite television and internet access. Theres underground parking too, plus guests/residents have access to the adjoining hotels fitness centre and swimming pool. Q (1,500 3,500). PTJHARFLKDXC
Domus Maria C-5, Auros Vart 12, tel. (+370) 5 264
Stikli Dvaras (Stikliai Apartments) B-3,
E-GuestHouse G-5, T. evenkos 16, tel. (+370) 5 266 07 30, fax (+370) 5 233 57 10, info@e-guesthouse.eu, www.e-guesthouse.eu. Quite the oddest little guesthouse Vilnius In Your Pocket
Where to stay
Green Vilnius Hotel Pilaits 20, tel. (+370) 5 250 06
95, fax (+370) 5 250 06 94, info@greenhotel.lt, www. greenhotel.lt. This surprisingly large budget hotel (126 rooms at the last count) is a budget hotel for a reason, namely because its not exactly what one could describe as being in the city centre. If you dont mind lots of messing about on public transport or are prepared to run the gauntlet of the citys taxi drivers then by all means be their guest. The rooms come in a range of sporty colours and are all fitted with showers, televisions with international channels and wireless internet, with an extra four floors featuring rooms with small kitchens for people who want to stay for more than a few days. Surplus to the super budget lodgings are conference facilities and a restaurant. Q126 rooms (180 - 293Lt). HA6ULKW hhh
27
PROBABLY THE BEST
Hotel Tilto B-1, Tilto 8/3, tel. (+370) 5 210 00 21, fax (+370) 5 210 00 20, info@hoteltilto.com, www. hoteltilto.com. An excellent location on a quiet Old Town street close to the Cathedral and other major sites, Hotel Tilto garners much praise from those whove slept in their beds. Among the amenities are en suite facilities for all, satellite television and wireless internet access in a choice of rooms from compact singles through to mini apartments. The staff are a friendly bunch plus theres a small bar specialising in draught Guinness in the cellar. Q34 rooms (166 - 518Lt). PJHAKDW hhh Panorama B-6, Sod 14, tel. (+370) 5 233 88 22, fax
(+370) 5 233 88 32, reservation@mikotelgroup.com, www.mikotelgroup.com. This surprising hotel rises above its location and offers wonderful views of Old Town and plenty of comfort and luxury without steep prices. While it is very convenient to be across the square from the bus and train stations, it is a convenience that is also enjoyed by all manner of scumbags, vagrants and weary commuters. Being in the freshly renovated hotel is lovely. Hanging around outside it is not. Still, its just a short stroll and a quick run of the gauntlet to Old Town, and the combination of views, basic comforts and reasonable prices is unmatched. Q223 rooms (86 - 155). JHA6LKW hhh
T.SEVCENKOS STR. 16, VILNIUS, LITHUANIA
5 238 80 00, fax (+370) 5 238 85 55, info.vilnius@ rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn.com/hotel-vilnius. Located 6km or so north of the city centre on the main road north out of the capital, Park Inn Vilnius North provides the usual excellent Park Inn experience for visitors of all persuasions. Featuring 84 Standard and Business Friendly rooms, facilities include bright and comfortable accommodation with free wireless internet as standard and a host of other treats. Extras include a restaurant, bar, large meeting room and free parking. Q84 rooms (40 - 81). HAR6ULKXW hhh
Park Inn Vilnius North Ukmergs 363, tel. (+370)
toriai features a small selection of en suite rooms complete with chintzy curtains, refrigerators, extraordinarily comfortable beds, free wireless internet and, in Room N9, a magical view of Gediminas Castle. The staff are friendly and the in-house restaurant (breakfast is extra and comes from a menu) is an extremely popular place for all manner of locals as well as a venue for rowdy weekend parties. The best Mexican restaurant in town also just so happens to be right next door. Q11 rooms (44 - 82). JAR6KXW hhh
Rinno A-4, Vingri 25, tel. (+370) 5 262 28 28, fax (+370) 5 262 59 29, info@rinno.lt, www.rinno.lt. Just west of Old Town in a small, quiet street, Rinno is a goodlooking three-star hotel in an admirable location for an affordable price. The rooms come in several categories from the good value standards through to luxury rooms complete with a large bath and minibar. All rooms feature free wireless internet, although you should check first to make sure you get a room close to the wireless box to make sure the signal is strong enough. All in all a decent place to stay in an admirable location that wont break the bank. Q17 rooms (49 - 99). JHA6LW hhh Senatoriai B/C-2, Tilto 2a, tel. (+370) 5 212 64 91, fax (+370) 5 212 63 73, info@senatoriai.lt, www.senatoriai. lt. A super little hotel practically on top of the Cathedral, Senavilnius.inyourpocket.com
Ambassador B-2, Gedimino 12, tel. (+370) 5 261 54 50, fax (+370) 5 212 17 16, info@ambassador.lt, www. ambassador.lt. A magnificent throwback to an earlier age with a few 21st-century concessions, the Ambassador provides adequate lodging for a fine price with the added advantage of one of the best locations in town. The rooms are a little old-fashioned, but if youre in the mood for a bargain complete with pleasant staff, surprisingly good breakfast and a cavalcade of top sights on your doorstep, look no further. Q18 rooms (175 - 400Lt). JA6LX hh Corner Hotel G-5, T. evenkos 16, tel. (+370) 5 210
23 61, fax (+370) 5 210 23 64, info@cornerhotel.lt, www.cornerhotel.lt. An excellent budget choice close to Old Town at the top of the hill, this clean and modern option provides a range of simple en suite rooms for between one and four guests, free wireless internet and a better than average breakfast. Corner Hotel is also worth considering if youre coming to stay for a while, offering serviced en suite rooms with shared kitchen and laundry facilities. Its also just around the corner from Algirdo, a street boasting several good restaurants. Q141 rooms (177 - 236Lt). HA6ULW hh
Budget
April - July 2013
28
Where to stay
Sleep smarts
I have a reservation A esu usisaks kambar More toilet paper please Noriau dar tualetinio popieriaus Ecotel Vilnius B-00, Slucko 8, tel. (+370) 5 210 27 00,
Bed & Breakfast

The Lithuanian definition of Bed & Breakfast conforms to the US model. Visitors from the UK should note that the two are as different as can be. Whereas in the United Kingdom B&B is more or less a small, usually family-run hotel, in Lithuania its more of an apartment kind of thing. Indeed, most Lithuanian B&Bs are just that. Here it can also mean any kind of hosted accommodation, whether being a room in a family house to something similar in a building run by professional staff. So, not really Bed & Breakfast as is so famous in Blighty. Brits beware! If in doubt, make sure to ask plenty of questions before booking something you never really wanted. 5 261 51 34, fax (+370) 5 260 84 10, info@bernardinuhouse.com, www.bernardinuhouse.com. An excellent value little guesthouse, smack bang in the middle of Old Town. Q10 rooms (140 - 250Lt). Breakfast not included. JA6LW
fax (+370) 5 210 27 07, hotel@ecotel.lt, www.ecotel. lt. Tucked away in a pleasant, quiet part of town just east of the citys emerging business district, Ecotel offers a choice of sleek and comfortable rooms, all coming with telephone and television, and including a range for non-smokers and those with allergy problems. With conference facilities and a whole host of other services (including rooms for tall guests) this might be the lofty option youre looking for. Q166 rooms (40 - 51). HAR6ULW hh
Bernardin B&B House D-2, Bernardin 5, tel. (+370)
Mikotel C-6, Pylimo 63, tel. (+370) 5 260 96 26, fax

(+370) 5 260 96 27, reservation@mikotel.lt, www.mikotelgroup.com. The receptionists are cheerful and outgoing at this modern hotel near the train station. Fortunately, unlike its dismal surroundings the hotels interior is clean and bright with the added touch of local artwork for sale on the walls. The rooms are compact with showers only and comfortable beds. Q26 rooms (55 - 98). JA6L hh
Sauls Namai J-3, Sauls 15/23, tel. (+370) 5 210
Rdnink Vartai B-5, Rdnink 15/46, tel. (+370) 5 261 39 16, fax (+370) 5 212 05 07, rudninkai@cityhotels.lt, www.rudninkuvartai.lt. Situated at one of the citys former gates and just across the road from one of the few remaining sections of the old city wall, this reasonable budget option with plenty of exposed brickwork for that old world feeling offers both standard rooms and something a little bit more special. All rooms are en suite, plus theres free wireless internet throughout and at the time of writing an in-house Belgian restaurant. A splendid location right on the edge of Old Town and within easy walking distance of the bus and train stations. Q 17 rooms (50 - 100). JHA6ILKXW hh
61 12, hotel@saules-namai.com, www.saules-namai. com. To be found not too far from the centre in Antakalnis, five minutes from the nearest trolleybus stop, this place cant come recommended enough. Run by a nice family whove done the design and building work themselves, there are a number of interesting rooms with lots of stripped pine, exposed brickwork and quirky paintings. Theres a large kitchen where you can prepare your own food or have it made for you, a beautiful living room with a large fireplace and a quiet, leafy garden. Exceptional value and highly recommended. Q9 rooms (70 - 240Lt). 6ILXW
Guesthouses
Ameda F-3, Latvi 27, tel. (+370) 601 704 40, hotela-
meda@gmail.com, www.hotelameda.lt. Splendid value rooms and apartments in lovely vrynas with excellent public transport connections to the city centre or a 15-minute walk for the more energetic, all options come with at least satellite television and internet connections, with the recommended apartments also featuring such homely inclusions as fireplaces and fully equipped kitchens. Q6 rooms (25 - 60). Breakfast unavailable. 6IW
212 38 50/(+370) 689 985 17, fax (+370) 5 212 35 59, vilnius@litinterp.lt, www.litinterp.com. Close to the Cathedral and many of the major sights, this seasoned favourite has been providing quality, low cost accommodation to visitors for some two decades. Located inside a glorious historic building on one of Old Towns prettiest streets, facilities are basic but more than ample, with options for everybody from single guests to families. All rooms come with their own small kitchens plus theres a choice of en suite and shared bathroom facilities. Airport pick-up and help with car rental is also available. Q16 rooms (80 - 280Lt). JAW hh
Litinterp Guest House D-2, Bernardin 7, tel. (+370) 5
Paupio Namai I-4/5, Paupio 31a, tel. (+370) 5 264 31
13, fax (+370) 5 264 31 12, info@paupionamai.lt, www. paupionamai.lt. A big friendly manor house full of big friendly staff tucked away just off the street. Here you can get just about any combination you require, from a shared dormitory and bathroom to self-contained apartments with en suite facilities. The rooms are basic, clean, and fairly good value, and if you want you can take advantage of the fully equipped downstairs kitchen to keep costs down even further. Q22 rooms (40 180Lt). Breakfast unavailable. AR6IKW
Where to stay
29
A Hostel B-6, Sod 8, tel. (+370) 5 215 02 70, info@ hostelsvilnius.lt, www.ahostel.lt. This well located hostel claims to provide accommodation along the lines of the Japanese pod system which on closer inspection appears to be nothing more than standard bunk beds. Extras include 15 minutes of free wireless internet, no curfew and hot showers around the clock. This is the best of their addresses. Also at Sod 17. Q (28 - 140Lt). JALW Come to Vilnius B-6, v. Stepono 15, tel. (+370) 656 050 36, www.cometovilnius.eu. A small hostel between the train and bus stations and Old Town, facilities are few and far between featuring shared rooms and bathroom facilities. The staff dish out free maps on arrival and can also arrange everything from bicycle rental and tours to other tourist-related services. Q6 rooms (13 - 52). Breakfast not included. TJAW Filaretai J-4, Filaret 17, tel. (+370) 5 215 46 27, inf o@f ilaretaihostel.lt, w w w.f ilaretaihostel.lt. A back-to-basics hostel in the quirky Uupis district, ac commodation comes in the usual dormitory style or, as is increasingly popular in hostels these days, with twin rooms for more privacy. Bathroom and kitchen facilities are shared, theres also laundry facilities, plus, unlike some, theres no annoying curfew. Q20 rooms (34 - 70Lt). Breakfast not included. HAILW
Hostels
Fortuna Hostel D-6, Pelesos 61/2, tel. (+370) 623 450 50, fax (+370) 5 260 85 89, fortunahostel@lha.lt, www. fortunahostel.lt. From the same people as Old Town Hostel, Fortuna is located just south of Old Town close to the bus and train stations. Featuring lots of exposed stonework alongside modern conveniences, rooms come in range of choices from the usual dorms to twins. Everyone speaks English, plus theres a good kitchen and even a place to park a car. Q14 rooms (28 - 50Lt, 90 - 160Lt). Breakfast unavailable. JA6LXW Old Town Hostel C/D-6, Auros Vart 20-15, tel. (+370) 5 262 53 57, fax (+370) 5 268 59 67, oldtownhostels@lha.lt, www.oldtownhostel.lt. A classic hostel in the old sense, meaning youre just as likely to find hard up Polish pensioners staying here as you are middle class English university students pretending to be poor. Ignore the fact that its not actually in Old Town and dont expect all-night parties with new-found Australian soul mates and youll be fine. Facilities are thin on the ground as one would expect, but for the price youd be an idiot to complain. Surplus to the army-style barracks are a few smaller rooms with en suite bathrooms and cooking facilities. Q5 rooms (28 - 50Lt, 90 - 160Lt). Breakfast unavailable. JRW Pogo Hostel C/D-2, B. Radvilaits 3, tel. (+370) 670 795 91, hostel@pogo.lt, http://pogo.lt/hostel. From the same people behind one of the best bars in Lithuania comes this new hostel, located in one of the best locations in the city, clean, simple, fun and amazingly good value for money. Rooms range from extremely affordable singles through to dorms that sleep up to 10 and the people who run it are very friendly. An exceptionally good option for anyone looking to meet like-minded people with a youthful outlook and a taste for good beer. Q5 rooms (11 - 30). Breakfast unavailable. AW April - July 2013
More hotels online vilnius.inyourpocket.com

30
Where to stay
apartments in a quiet location and a lovely old building in Old Town. Facilities include underground parking, satellite television, internet, fully equipped kitchens and everything else necessary for a luxurious stay. Apartments are available to rent for both long and short stays. Q (60 - 120). PTJA6ULXW
Eugenijus Apartments A-2, Vilniaus 25-1, tel. (+370) 699 424 56, eugenijp@takas.lt, www.vilniusapartments.lt. A choice of two decent, good value apartments in Old Town, located at street level for easy access and coming with everything required for a self-catering stay. Close to the main sights, the apartments are managed by a local husband and wife who run a small ceramics workshop and gallery in the city. Other services include car and bicycle rental, guided tours and translation services. Q (30 - 40). JL Rentida Apartments B-4, v. Mikalojaus 5, tel.
(+370) 682 281 42, gvidas@rentida.lt, www.rentida. lt. Modern and classy apartments with all the trimmings on a fabulous Old Town street close to the oldest church in the city. Peaceful, and with some great views out of the windows, facilities include wireless internet and cable television. Q (150 - 250Lt). TJW
Skapo Apartments C-2, S. Skapo 8-17, tel. (+370) 680 555 04, info@skapoapartments.lt, www.skapoapartments.lt. Fine modern apartments, beautifully restored in a historical building close to Vilnius University, available for stays of any length and complete with all necessary amenities. Q (45 - 85). JA6W Stasys Apartments Tel. (+370) 699 326 72, stasys@ Vilnius Youth Tourist Centre (Vilniaus Jaunj Turist Centras) X-3, Polocko 7, tel. (+370) 5 261
apartment-vilnius.com, www.apartment-vilnius.com. A choice of several apartments to suit every taste and budget, centrally located, and featuring everything necessary for a pleasant, self-catering stay. Satellite television in every apartment. Q (120 - 300Lt). W
35 76, fax (+370) 5 262 77 42, vjtc@delfi.lt, www. vjtc.lt. Set in a pastoral Uupis courtyard, the building is in a state of dilapidated charm characteristic of the area. Accommodation comes in a range of Spartan rooms that can sleep up to five, all with shared bathroom facilities. Other temptations include a communal kitchen and the chance to have breakfast, which is served outside during the summer, and made for you if youre feeling flush. Q16 rooms (34Lt). Breakfast unavailable. HW
Vilnius Apartments C-3/4, Stikli 6-1, tel. (+370) 600 128 22, info@euapartments.lt, www.euapartments.lt. A wide range of one- and two-bedroom apartments for rent in Old Town for both short and long stays. Each apartment is very different in style and amenities, the latter including such useful attractions as free internet and washing machines. Q (160 - 240Lt). J
Apartments Domus247 Tel. (+370) 604 486 36, fax (+431) 253 033 300 05, info@domus247.com, www. domus247.com. A highly recommended agency dealing in properties of all kinds for rent in Old Town and the city centre. The choice of places is impressive to say the least, and the service is outstanding. A recent attempt to find accommodation in Vilnius for four nights during a particularly busy period saw them offering one of their own properties as everything else was fully booked. Marvellous. Q (120 - 700Lt). J Auksinis Trikampis C-3, Didioji 8, tel. (+370) 655 043 09, nona_mackiene@yahoo.com, www.auksinistrikampis.lt. A large, fully equipped apartment with two bedrooms right in the heart of the Old Town action. Spacious and close to all the major sights, amenities include kitchen, cable television, wireless internet and parking facilities. See the website for more information. Q (70 - 290Lt). JW Barbacan Apartments D-4, Bokto 19/12, tel.
(+370) 615 126 88, info@barbacan.lt, www.aparthotel. lt. A range of extremely high quality two- and three-room
Short term rental
Restaurants
With the exception of a handful of amusing and/or appalling disasters, eating out in Vilnius is both excellent and relatively affordable for all. The citys restaurants and cafs literally cater to taste buds of every persuasion, offering everything from vast plates of potato-based local specialities to a surprisingly wide and generally palatable concoction of dishes from the kitchens of such far away places as India and Brazil. Service continues to be the main stumbling block even in the most aristocratic of eateries, and is easily the subject from which the majority of visitors gain the most displeasure. Although the bulk of restaurants worth visiting can be found within the city centre, the suburbs also offer a few treats, which we list when we feel that the plaudits is deserving. Tipping, if deserved, is up to the diner, with 10 per cent or a rounding up of the bill both being acceptable.
31
Symbol key
P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking X Smoking place I Fireplace A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled W Wireless Internet access B Outside seating J Old town location
V Home delivery 6 Pet-friendly Prices listed in the Restaurants section of this guide refer to the average cost of a main course for one, excluding drinks.
Argentinean
73, www.atrium.lt. This dark downstairs restaurant is prized by those in the know for its steaks, but theres also plenty of other Argentinean specialities on offer for those who like to experiment, making El Gaucho Sano an ideal place to head for diners bored of the usual offerings around town. This time round we went for the sirloin steak, which was ample in proportions, cooked to perfection and extremely good value considering this is basically a hotel restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 65Lt. PJASW
El Gaucho Sano C-2, Pilies 10, tel. (+370) 5 210 77
Asian
shantivilnius.com. Reassuringly pricey in the way only a Slavic-styled Oriental restaurant can be, this is pure class without the unnecessary ostentatious overkill. The food is gaining a reputation as being the real deal, and everything appears to be in perfect working order. The aforementioned reason for visiting stretches all the Asian boundaries, with a menu featuring classic dishes from a number of different regional cuisines as well as some truly outstanding fusion offerings. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 28Lt. TJABSW
Shanti A-3, Pylimo 22d, tel. (+370) 5 261 29 51, www.
Armenian
Ararat A-6, Kauno 3a, tel. (+370) 5 233 45 69, www.
araratas.lt. Nobody cooks meat better than the people from the Caucasus and the people who cook it in this recommended Armenian restaurant are no exception to the fact. The menu of grilled meat dishes is impressive, not least because they all taste magnificent and leave diners with the kind of post-meal glowing sensation that only a handful of restaurants can deliver. The service is good too, and the bill looks like a typo. Excellent value for money indeed and well worth the slight detour required to eat here. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. 18Lt. PTABSW
Tokyo China A-1, A. Vienuolio 4, tel. (+370) 620 241 16, www.cili.lt. Youve got to hand it to these people, theyre not stupid. Taking advantage of the current obsession with sushi, Tokyo China has sprung up in the guise of an Asian restaurant offering a range of Asian dishes thats really just a sushi joint underneath. If you cant get to the party first, come in disguise. The food is good by the way, although the friendly and attentive service is a wee bit over the top. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. PJAVBSW Wok & Roll B-6, v. Stepono 19, tel. (+370) 642 444 40. Currently making waves among the undergroundesque fashionistas of Vilnius, this slightly out of the way little hit is a cross between a classic Asian fast food restaurant and a DJ bar. The food, which also includes sandwiches and soup, is passable if not exactly legendary and if you hit it on a good night youll certainly enjoy the vibe. A good option for a few beers among interesting people with the added bonus of simple food on tap to stave off the hunger. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. 16Lt. 6ESW
Buffet express
95 81. A combined patisserie and buffet restaurant with a distinctly feminine feel to the place, this is eating in a hurry at its best. The selection of ready-to-eat food may not be the largest in town, but the dishes are imaginative, taste superb and are, considering the location, excellent value for money. Just make sure youve got some cash on you, as they still dont take credit cards. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. 10Lt. PTJNBS Located amidst a clutch of similar counters serving instant and disparate dishes on the top floor of the Ozas shopping centre, this may not be the first choice for new diners arriving in Vilnius but if youre in the area then you could do a lot worse. On offer is a limited range of mostly meat-based fare, most of it sizzling and bubbling away in large metal pans and waiting to be eaten immediately. Fine dining it isnt, but if youre looking for a full meal of pork, roasted potatoes and salad for the price of a slice of pizza and a cup of tea in Old Town then you could do a lot worse. English may not be spoken, but pointing never fails. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Poni Laim C-3, Stikli 14/1, tel. (+370) 5 264
Seklyia H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), www.europub.lt.
Belarusian
guda.lt. Recently opened in a fairly central if not exactly easy to stumble on location, Vilnius only truly authentic Belarusian restaurant fuses old and new and pulls the whole thing off very well indeed. If you can tune out the television and the music vying for attention what youre left with is a reasonably classic establishment serving excellent food for a good price. Recommended is the boletus and pearl barley soup followed by draninki, the Belarusian take on potato pancakes that coming in a sizzling metal dish complete with bacon, onions and a rich sauce. If that isnt enough, theres a good selection of wines and lots of old pictures gracing the walls. Definitely worth a visit. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 17Lt. PJAEW
Guda B-4, Pylimo 27, tel. (+370) 5 212 35 00, www.
April - July 2013
32
Restaurants
Brazilian
www.grillbrazil.lt. A marvellous restaurant specialising in churrasco and espeto corrido cuisine, which for the uninitiated is a Brazilian buffet extravaganza wherein diners help themselves to endless portions of salad and other dishes whilst a procession of waiters do the rounds armed with large skewers loaded with grilled meat which is cut at the table and dropped onto the plate. Unquestionably one of the best restaurants in the country, theres also an accompanying set menu for the less adventurous. Their Old Town venture is geared slightly more towards the tourist market, whereas their other place on the top floor of Panorama is a much more local affair. Both are excellent and highly recommended. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. 29Lt. PJAW
Grill Brazil C-4, Vokiei 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 43 61,
Didioji Kinija A-00, Konstitucijos 12, tel. (+370) 5 263 63 63, www.kinuvirtuve.lt. One of a small chain of Chinese restaurants in town, all of them worthy of further culinary investigation, Didioji Kinijas location may not be exactly central but is certainly calling for a visit. As with the vast majority of Chinese food in Vilnius, this is the real thing, not the adulterated imitation usually served up in places like the UK. The menu itself is massive, not unlike the actual dishes of which theres a good range to suit all, including vegetarians. The current business lunch served here, which can be eaten in-house or taken away, is ridiculously good value indeed. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. PTAVBSW Pekinas H-5, Algirdo 28/15, tel. (+370) 5 215 16 20, www.kinuvirtuve.lt. The closest Chinese restaurant to the Chinese embassy is a small affair with plenty of obligatory lanterns, friendly staff and a television and CD player vying for attention in authentic Chinese fashion. The slightly pricey menu is extensive and generally excellent, with plate warmers on hand to keep the large portions piping hot as theyre slowly devoured. Amidst the more mainstream offerings of beef, pork, chicken and vegetable dishes are a few exotic treats including snails and even ostrich. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 30Lt. PTAUVSW
Bokto Vartai C-3, Bokto 2, tel. (+370) 5 260 96 64. Popular with locals and foreigners alike, this two-floor Old Town restaurant in a fabulous historical building fuses together a range of cuisines and is definitely worth further investigation. The menu is impressive and has yet to disappoint, whether its their classic English breakfast, the monster burgers and fries or the Austrian food and wine that recently appeared on the bill of fare. Theres a great selection of beers at good prices too, the occasional evening of live music and the chance to rent the place for sumptuous banquets. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. PJASW
British
Fine dining
ingischanas (Genghis Khan) A-3/4, J. Basanaviiaus 8/1, tel. (+370) 619 128 16, www.restoranas.net. Chefs from Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan have all contributed their own dishes to Lithuanias only truly authentic Central Asian restaurant. Bursting with aromatic and spicy dishes youve probably never eaten before, the dcor may be a little on the kitsch side but then thats all part of the experience. Recommended for novelty value if not the food itself. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 20Lt. PJUESW
Central Asian
tel & Suites Vilnius), tel. (+370) 5 255 33 55, www. californiagourmet.lt. The five-star Ramada Hotel & Suites Vilnius flagship gourmet restaurant offers the ultimate in dining, from the sophisticated dcor through to the mouthwatering food. Billed as the first gourmet restaurant in Lithuania, the food here is taken very seriously indeed and gets most of its inspiration from the melting pot of cuisines coming out of the United States. The menu is impressive and includes a wealth of classy dishes from a much talkedabout Caesar salad to fresh lobster to foie gras. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. 65Lt. PTJAULBSW www.idabasar.lt. Located inside a lovely 16th-century building behind the hotel of the same name, Ida Basars reputation for high class food in glorious surroundings is well founded. Now combining a small cuisine-related museum with the actual dining spaces, the kitchen continues to pump out some of the best nosh in the capital. A good option if trying to impress. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. 30Lt. TJAUBS
California Gourmet C-5, Subaiaus 2 (Ramada Ho-
Ida Basar C-5, Subaiaus 3, tel. (+370) 5 262 84 84,
Chinese
The ubiquitous chinky is alive and well, and living in Lithuania as it is all over the rest of the planet. Vilnius offers a superb range of Chinese options, from low budget canteen affairs to the full-blown posh experience. Chopsticks at the ready.
Restaurants
33
La Provence B-4, Vokiei 22, tel. (+370) 5 262 02 57, www.laprovence.lt. This Vilnius favourite specialising in Mediterranean cooking at its best is generally crowded with tables full of well-heeled locals and foreigners tucking into a mouth-watering range of dishes including fish, grilled meat and a couple of vegetarian options. Prepared and delivered with the height of care, attention and even a little theatre, despite its reputation as a rather expensive restaurant, not only is it worth the money here there are also a number of dishes that wont break the bank. Having said that, they do stock a couple of bottles of champagne for 1,000Lt a pop. Magnificent. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 70Lt. PTJABS Narutis Restaurant C-3, Pilies 24 (The Narutis
Hotel - Preferred Boutique), tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, www.narutis.com. Lush burgundy and orange fabrics and glorious 18th-century frescoes, white tablecloths and staff wi th impeccable style, thats what people have grown to expect in this top notch Old Town hotel restaurant. Theres plenty of imitators hereabouts, but in Naruio Restoranas you get the real thing, meaning great service and great food. The menu features an imaginative concoction of dishes from around the world, including one of the best kybyn (a Lithuanian Karaite speciality) in the country to a mouth-watering Chilean sea bass. Using fresh ingredients to create works of art on every plate, this one really is hard to beat. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 65Lt. PTJABSW
for good measure, the menu is seasonal, has an emphasis on locally-sourced ingredients, and is simply superb. Were still saving our pocket money so we can visit for a coffee and a bun. Marvellous. QOpen 18:30 - 22:30. Breakfast menu served 07:00 - 10:30. 80Lt. PTJAUW
French
Aux Champs - Elyses A-3, Pylimo 22d, tel. (+370)

5 205 81 92, www.eliziejauslaukai.lt. Popular with a wide range of locals and foreigners alike, the dcor is French without being over the top and the menu, including plenty of French favourites such as snails and that also features weekly changing dishes, is genuinely excellent. Theres pleasant live music several evenings a week from 18:00 too. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. JAEW
Stikliai C-3, Gaono 7 (Stikliai Hotel), tel. (+370) 5 264
95 80, www.stikliai.com. A small but magnificent menu of wonderful dishes featuring such classic favourites as black truffles and a proper sorbet, all served from soup to nuts by impeccable staff in truly sumptuous surroundings. Whereas most hotel restaurants are best avoided, this one is more than an exception. Backpackers and stag parties might like to find somewhere else to eat. People with style who know a good thing when they see it and who like to impress might like to book a table. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:30. Sat 12:00 - 23:30. Closed Mon, Sun. 90Lt. PTJAUBW Cathedral Square), tel. (+370) 5 220 16 00, www. kempinski.com/vilnius. The magnificent Kempinskis in-house restaurant gets its name from the fact that this was during most of the Soviet period the main telegraph office in the city although they could call it Doris for we care because, assuming youve got deep pockets or a handsome expense account, the place is simply classy beyond the dreams of just about anywhere in the country. Specialising in international food with a few Lithuanian twists thrown in
Telegrafas C-2, Universiteto 14, (Kempinski Hotel
April - July 2013
34
Restaurants
Balzac C-4, Saviiaus 7, tel. (+370) 614 892 23, www. balzac.lt. Still impressively busy most times we walk past, our last outing to Balzac was as good as the previous one, if not better. The staff remain friendly and helpful and the food, if not exactly like the stuff made from fresh local ingredients youd expect from a roadside restaurant in the suburbs of Bordeaux, is more than good enough to keep visiting French visitors more than happy. The complimentary bread and spread provided while you wait is not only a welcome treat but worthy of a review in itself, whilst the impressive menu continues to impress. Recommended is the classic onion soup followed by a hotchpotch of small dishes to share with friends. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Fri 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 35Lt. PTJABSW Brasserie de Verres en Vers C-4, Didioji 35/2 (Radisson Blu Astorija Hotel), tel. (+370) 5 236 08 40, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius. As one would expect from the Radisson brand, their in-house Vilnius Old Town restaurant is pure top class. Tastefully decorated in cool browns, eat in a choice of two halls, one with a little privacy and the other with large windows looking out onto the street outside. The small but well-chosen menu features a cavalcade of classics with a predominantly French flavour. Recommended is the slow roasted rabbit with saut potatoes. The service is friendly and attentive, and the drinks menu, including a couple of good champagnes, is equally impressive. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. 60Lt. PJAUBSW Le Got B-2, L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus 1 (Amberton
New
onion soup to buf bourguignon. Theres an equally impressive wine menu too, packed with quality bottles from France and further afield. Take note that this is a fairly exclusive affair with classic service and large bills to boot. The view of the Cathedral across the street is superb. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. 55Lt. PTJAUEBSW
March de Provence C-3, Pilies 27, tel. (+370) 686 777 07, www.marchedeprovence.lt. A really great-looking restaurant serving a limited choice of dishes from France and the Mediterranean region in general. We had a knockout salad followed by a cheese risotto, one of the hardest dishes to make well and that the chef made pretty much to perfection. Theres a good wine list too, the staff know what theyre talking about and the use of fresh herbs in every dish really helps make the place stand out from the crowd. A small terrace out the back of the building opens during the warmer part of the year. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 45Lt. PJABS
Hotel), tel. (+370) 601 888 13, www.le-gout.lt. The Amberton hotels recently newly opened in-house restaurant specialises in nouvelle-style French cuisine with a few nods to Italy and the international world of cooking in general. The small menu features a range of classics from duck pt to
Pauki Takas Sausio 13-osios 10 (Television Tower), tel. (+370) 5 252 53 36. Revolving precariously 160m above the ground in the middle of a large Soviet-era housing estate, the Milky Ways chef is unlikely to be headhunted soon, although coming here to eat is hardly the main reason to visit. Disappointing for many who didnt do their maths beforehand and who were left stupefied by the fact that Old Towns simply too far away to be seen without the aid of the Hubble telescope, if lifts and Soviet architects and terrorist threats dont scare you youll simply love it up here. Note that in order to keep the riff-raff out theres a steep charge to enter which is worth every penny, and that although it stays open until 22:00 they stop letting people in at 21:00. A carefully chosen taxi should cost around 20Lt. QOpen 10:00 22:00. Box office open 10:00 - 21:00. 28Lt. ASW vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Fun
Restaurants
Fish
www.zuvine.lt. From the same stable as the people with the same name in Palanga, this classy little number serves a select range of predominantly locally caught fish accompanied with all manner of fancy additions. The style is very much upscale, the food is impressive and the location inside the historical Town Hall is more or less unbeatable. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 40Lt. PTJABSW
35
uvin C-4, Didioji 31, tel. (+370) 682 191 72,
Ren C-4, M. Antokolskio 13, tel. (+370) 5 212 68 58.

The winner of the 2011 longest wait for food competition by at least 30 minutes (the total time was getting dangerously close to an hour and a half), Rens various attempts at quirkiness through the connection between its name and a certain Belgian artist are wearing a bit thin to say the least. Bowlerhatted waitresses and the opportunity to draw on the tables may have some in raptures but when its all accompanied by a slip in general standards the whole thing can start to look like a bit of a joke. The food is good although by no means outstanding and Belgian beer is now available in several places around the city. When they get the food right here they really get it right, but as with so many places in Lithuania they just cant seem to get it right all the time. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. 29Lt. PTA6UBSW
Uupio Kavin D-3, Uupio 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 21 38,
www.uzupiokavine.lt. A Vilnius institution often full of people who should be in institutions themselves, the breakaway Republic of Uupis daft political headquarters also doubles as one of Vilnius must-see places to stop and have something to eat and drink. The interior has a mild Republic of Uupis theme, helped along by a clientele of colourful locals, whilst if youre lucky enough to visit on a mild or even a sunny day, the riverside wooden terrace remains one of the top places to sit in the capital. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. 23Lt. JABSW
Ice-cream
Soprano C-2, Pilies 3, tel. (+370) 5 212 60 42, www. soprano.lt. Our last outing here involved entertaining a couple of under-sevens who demolished so much cake and ice cream they had to be hosed down before leaving. The treats on offer really are exceptionally good at any time of year. The ice-cream is made locally to a traditional Italian recipe. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PJABSW Reinis The Cook G-5, evenkos 16a (Lithuanian Design Block), tel. (+370) 662 743 39. Reinaldas churns out a range of interesting, good-looking dishes using a blend of sound knowledge and improvisation. Somewhere between a caf and a restaurant, find it inside one of the most fashionable designer shops in the city. Top marks for joining the 21st century. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12Lt. PTBSW
Coco Restobar B-2, Labdari 8, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 09. A huge padded mirror over the door marks the spot where Coco Restobar can be located. Inside is a well though-out affair populated with a mostly young and intelligent crowd who when theyre not drinking and ogling the DJs take advantage of a cracking little changing menu of great experimental food with a distinctive Asian twist. A small garden should also open as soon as the weather improves. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. PJABSW Linas Samnas D-5, Subaiaus 16/23, tel. (+370)
New
Fusion
669 755 15, www.linassamenas.lt. Lithuanian chef Linas Samnas CV is an impressive one, having cooked in some of Vilnius most talked about restaurants over the years. Recently deciding to go it alone, Linas has opened a brave venture where traditional meets modern in the form of nouvelle cuisine based around classic local dishes and using seasonal ingredients, many of them sourced from local lakes and forests. The teas and juices on offer are all made from local leaves and fruit and everything on the menu is open for discussion. A couple of minutes off the main tourist route, we recommend you support this kind of venture and pay the place a visit. QOpen 10:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 17Lt. JN
Tiflisi-Dukani A-4, Naugarduko 12, tel. (+370) 656 228 05. Featuring pleasant dcor, an equally agreeable staff and some real magic taking place in the kitchen, Tiflisi Dukanis menu features enough Caucasian cuisine to keep mouths watering for months to come. Because this is a real Georgian restaurant owned and run by people who know their business, the staff are on hand to advise as to what dishes to order. Highly recommended are any of the Georgian soups and the magnificent grilled meats. An extensive wine menu and plenty of classic desserts finishes everything off perfectly. QOpen Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. PTAUVESW April - July 2013
Georgian
36
Restaurants
Fast food
KFC G-4, J. Jasinskio 14, tel. (+370) 5 205 99 72. The
main Vilnius address for the Lithuanian KFC franchise is a large building located close to Gedimino and the river in the city centre. Serving up all your favourite KFC dishes, the place is genuinely worth a visit if youre a fan of Colonel Sanders as, unlike many other places to eat in town, the owners keep a close eye on things. They also have counter on the top floor of the Ozas shopping centre if you happen to be visiting. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 15Lt. PTAUSW
McDonalds A-1, Gedimino 15, tel. (+370) 685
421 78, www.mcd.lt. Often full to overflowing with lovestruck Lithuanian teenagers, middle-aged English staggers dressed as rabbits and the inevitable huddle of people whod never be seen dead in the place but that can often be found there, everything in this city centre branch tastes like it does in every other McDonalds on the planet with exception of the French fries which more often than not fail the crispy test miserably. The number one spot in town to make an anti-political statement whilst sitting at one of the little tables by the window and watching the hordes drift by. Also at Sein 3, Kareivi 15, Ukmergs 173, Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00 (main restaurant). Open 07:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 00:00 - 05:00, 06:00 - 00:00 (small window). PTJABSW
Bunte Gans C-5, Auros Vart 11, tel. (+370) 5 212 83 12, www.buntegans.lt. Bunte Gans churns out excellent German cuisine and other dishes in this Old Town favourite. The imaginative, good value food on offer includes schnitzels, bratwurst, bangers and mash, lamb, boar, beef steaks, fresh fish and the house special dish of goose with fried potatoes and a host of other vegetables. Theres live music during the weekends and an extensive range of drinks including Riesling, Grauer Burgunder and the recommended German beer ZollerHof from Schwabia. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 35Lt. TJAEBSW
German
Indian
Indian Maharaja A-4, Trak 4, tel. (+370) 662 116
00, www.indianmaharaja.lt. What star ted out as a serious-looking contender to the unbeatable Sues Indian Raja has over a relatively short period of time opted for the tedious Lithuanian habit of going downhill fast. You tend to get what you pay for in life, which in the case of Indian Maharaja is at best average Indian food that panders more and more to local tastes. Although the food is by no means bad, proper Indian food needs to be, well, proper, and this is no longer the case here. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. 20Lt. PJASW
More restaurants online vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
88, www.suesindianraja.lt. The best restaurant in Vilnius continues to impress with a fabulously pungent menu of dishes, all made from hand-picked and hand-mixed spices by a crack team of Indian chefs overseen by the uniquely charming Wing Commander Rajinder Chaudhary. Our last outing saw us putting away a mild pork korma and a consistently outstanding and nicely spicy butter chicken after demolishing way too many onion bhajis for our own good. The service remains excellent, the location is unbeatable and the bill at the end of it may be a little shocking for local prices but if you compare it to what youd be expected to pay for an average Indian on any British high street then it simply doesnt compare. Magic, and thoroughly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. PTJAVBSW
37
Sues Indian Raja B-2, Odmini 3, tel. (+370) 5 266 18
sotto, pasta and scores of meat-heavy dishes such as beef and rabbit. Theres pudding too, and the aforementioned wine shop stocks a huge selection of booze. Theres little sympathy for vegetarians here, but if youre into classy dining on one of Vilnius poshest streets this might just be the place for you. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 24:00. 40Lt. PTJA6US
Bel Ami D-3, Uupio 4, tel. (+370) 699 306 57, www. belami.lt. Parsnip and ginger soup, stewed venison and wild boar and a fabulous range of other well-crafted dishes for a decent price in the latest and possibly the best restaurant to open in Vilnius Uupis district, all aimed in family-friendly manner and staffed by equally gregarious and knowledgeable staff. Both the dcor and the atmosphere are a cut above most places in town and we really mustnt forget to mention the desserts or the drinks. One more good reason to take the plunge and go explore the citys famously odd and quirky little district. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00, Sat 14:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 30Lt. PTJA Bistro 18 C-3, Stikli 18, tel. (+370) 677 720 91, www.bistro18.lt. A combined restaurant and wine shop, Bistro 18 specialises primarily in dishes from the world of European seasonal cuisine including French onion soup, ri-
International
Bur N1 B-00, Lvovo 25, tel. (+370) 671 786 76. The entire team from the old Kalvarij 1 restaurant have uprooted themselves and relocated just up the street in the heart of Vilnius new bustling business district. Promising 365 meals a year from a range of imaginative and unusual ingredients including locally-produced organic cheese, find a menu stuffed with good things including mussels, chicken with peaches and a whole lot more. The staff can even arrange to have everything delivered if youre too busy to visit. For those whod like the real experience, find it tucked away on the left in the entrance to what looks like a courtyard at the front of the main building. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 28Lt. PAESW Carr B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 687 901 59. FeaNew
turing several cubby holes in which to hide as well as an exceptionally long bar, Carr functions on several levels as a restaurant, bar and place to relax and drink coffee. The ambitious menu tips its hat to just about every cuisine known to humanity plus theres an extremely well stocked bar. Popular with a young and moderately sophisticated crowd, the place attracts punters with the added bonus of the occasional DJ, plus theres a large terrace out the back open during the warmer part of the year. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Thu 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 19Lt. PTAUBSW
April - July 2013
38
Restaurants
Bakeries
51, http://khachapuri.lt. A small bakery with a handful of tables offering mostly takeaway Georgian breads of various kinds, generally baked to order and consequently often taking a while (or an age in our case) to arrive. Not advisable for those in a hurry, but outstandingly recommended for those who arent. Theres usually somebody there who speaks English to help decode the mysteries of Georgian baking. Recommended is the dish after which the place is named, chaapuri, aka khachapuri, a smashing little bread bun-type thing filled with cheese. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. JS 91, www.cukatos.lt. A sweet little bakery churning out a range of cracking little cakes, pies, breads and even marmalade using fresh ingredients, no preservatives and with an emphasis on citrus fruit although savoury treats are also on offer. Decorated with a feminine touch, theres space to sit inside or stand outside if you dont want to take it away. Look for the old-fashioned bicycle parked by the entrance. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. PT JAVSW
Cozy C-3, Dominikon 10, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 37, www.
Chaapuri B-6, Sod 9, tel. (+370) 5 240 58
cozy.lt. Friendly welcomes from bar staff who remember your name is something of a rarity in Lithuania, making Cozy worth a visit for that reason alone. If youre only staying for a short while though theres still plenty of reasons to visit from an imaginative menu of pub grub that offers more than one dish for vegetarians (the risotto is a current hit) to the legendary in-house troika, a sweet-tasting, three-layered cocktail traditionally drunk by a select handful of regulars who always have a taxi number ready when its time to wobble out the door. The current exhibition of large black and white photographs of everyday life in the bizarre Russian-speaking town of Visaginas finishes everything off very nicely indeed. Recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. 25Lt. PJABSW
Cukatos B-3, Trak 16, tel. (+370) 671 313
Italika Kepykla C -3, Dominikon 16, tel.
Druskos Namai X-3, Uupio 30, tel. (+370) 5 215 30 04, info@druskosnamai.lt, www.druskosnamai.lt. The philosophy behind the recently opened Druskos Namai is to provide quality international food at affordable prices sourced as much as possible from local farms. This is generally the best way of establishing yourself as a quality restaurant as it ensures both food to talk about and a constantly changing menu that keep the punters coming again and again. Complete with a small outdoor courtyard (booking at peak times is highly recommended), we plucked for the gazpacho, the perfect choice for daytime outdoor eating, and a great little dish of pork with cherry tomatoes and mashed potato to die for. Certainly worth the struggle up the hill to get there. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00, Thu, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. 40Lt. JABW Esse G-3, Gedimino 50/2, tel. (+370) 686 004 88,
www.esse.lt. A bustling restaurant in the city centre, find well-trained staff ferrying a cavalcade of good-looking international dishes with a leaning towards European cuisine to a wide range of clientle from local business professionals to tourists. Among the favourite fare on offer are the mussels in a wine and cream sauce, plus theres also over 100 wines to choose from either from the menu or at unbeatable prices from the attached shop. For those who cant stand to be away from the office for too long, also find free wireless internet. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 25Lt. PTJAESW
(+370) 686 310 23. The main supermarket chains in Lithuania have come a long way over the last few years when it comes to bread, but its still fairly impossible to find the perfect loaf. Hats off then to this oasis in the dessert, the brainchild of a local lady so enamoured by the kind of bread and pastries made by the Italians she introduced them here. Whereas the supermarkets get the recipes right but skimp on the basic materials (the wrong flour, cheap fat etc.), Italika Kepykla uses only the best ingredients to make bread to knock your socks off. Magnificent and most highly recommended. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. JAS
22. Pandering to those looking for a more healthy lifestyle this combined bakery and caf specialises in a wide range of treats made from natural ingredients. Offering both the choice of eating in or taking away, the menu is impressive and features everything from classic Lithuanian and international savoury pastries to a mind-boggling array of cakes and desserts. Theres also a good choice of drinks on offer and an excellent area for children at the back, all located in a convenient central location. QOpen 09:30 - 20:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:30. 10Lt. PTJASW
Pinavija A-2, Vilniaus 21, tel. (+370) 676 444
Green Hall G-3, Ups 21, tel. (+370) 688 488 86. Inside the large and supposedly environmentally-friendly building on the north of the river not far from the Panorama shopping centre, Green Hall is a swanky international affair recently taken over by new management. The menu has seen a few changes but still features a good selection of classic international fare with a handful of vegetarian options. Theres also plenty of alcohol on offer and the service is friendly. Probably not worth the journey in itself if youre in the city centre, its definitely worth a visit if youre hungry and in the area. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. 28Lt. PAULBSW
www.grillinn.lt. Friendly and well turned-out staff are on hand to serve a range of superb, meat-heavy dishes and a few peasant classics such as boiled pigs ears alongside a good choice of beers from local small breweries. Theres a choice of rooms in which to dine as well as the option of propping up the bar and getting quietly sloshed, whilst during the summer the addition of a small terrace out the back in which a young member of staff is known to appear with a barbecue and start grilling meat is a very welcome addition indeed. Pretty much perfect for any occasion. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 23Lt. JAUEBSW
Grill Inn B-3, Dominikon 6, tel. (+370) 600 019 77,
Thierry Kepykla X-3, Uupio 19, tel. (+370) 676
608 89. Currently making waves as the best place in town for croissants and coffee for breakfast and now boasting a lot more space with a grand total of nine tables, any half-way decent addition to the generally grim selection of bakeries in Vilnius is more than welcome. A bit out of the way at the top of a steep Uupis hill, by all accounts the walk is worth the effort. Also at vitrigailos 29. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. JASW
Restaurants
39
Holy Mikos C-3, v. Mykolo 4, tel. (+370) 688 222 10, www.holymikos.lt. A small, family-run restaurant on a quiet Old Town street specialising in both Lithuanian and international dishes served in sumptuous surroundings, the food is predominantly nouvelle cuisine and is exquisitely presented. Theres also an imaginative, changing daily lunch special for a good price and a remarkably good wine list. A good choice for the romantically inclined and/ or small business occasions, Holy Mikos also features an interesting selection of live music events. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. 25Lt. TJASW Jalta F-3, Vykinto 17a. G oin g from s tren gth to
strength, Jalta is an excellent reason to visit the leafy suburb populated with more than its fair share of wooden houses thats vrynas. The food leans in the direction of healthy, offering plenty of dishes made from locally sourced ingredients whilst they also organise a wealth of evening events including DJs in the greenhouse in the front garden. Complete with a peaceful, tree-laden terrace thats a real knockout during the warmer part of the year, expect plenty of red-eyed alternative types turning up on bicycles. Definitely recommended. QOpen 11:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. 25Lt. TESW An angular experience with plenty of creamy shades and exposed wooden features, this simple offering not only keeps the dcor to a minimum but also doesnt get carried away with the menu. The recommended dishes on offer include a recently eaten plate of miniature fishcakes that despite their laughable size tasted superb. Theres an extensive wine list too. A good choice for
Q Open 11:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun, Mon June - August.

24Lt. PTJABSW
those wanting to impress without breaking the bank.
La Pergola B-5, Ligonins 7, tel. (+370) 5 266 03
22, www.grotthusshotel.com. White tablecloth gourmet dining in sumptuous surroundings inside the Grotthuss hotel, or, during the warmer months, on their lovely terrace just off a quiet street in the heart of Old Town. The menu of international dishes includes plenty of options to keep everybody happy, and is accompanied by an equally admirable wine list. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 60Lt. PTJAULKW
Lauro Lapas A-2, Pamnkalnio 24, tel. (+370) 674 510 45, www.laurolapas.lt. A brave new venture by two young local chefs promising both quality and innovation, Lauro Lapas offers a limited choice of la carte dining plus dishes from a daily specials menu. The food features such rarities in Lithuania as pheasant alongside a more conservative menu of international food all cooked with panache and a twist. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 35Lt. PTJAW Medininkai C-5, Auros Vart 8, tel. (+370) 600 864 91, www.medininkai.lt. One of Vilnius oldest and most well respected restaurants serves up sumptuous international food in a white tablecloth atmosphere in a choice of several halls as well as outside in a lovely 16th-century courtyard during the summer. The menu features all manner of good things, from fresh seafood to pasta to some fine grilled meat, all overseen by an award-winning chef who maintains high standards throughout. Part of the classy Europa Royale hotel, diners can also take advantage of the adjoining hotel bar before or after their meal. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. TJABSW April - July 2013
Kitchen C-4, Didioji 11, tel. (+370) 688 805 58.
40
Restaurants
Cafs
www.restoranasneringa.lt. A former nomenklatura favourite and still pulling in the cream of the citys slightly older sophisticates, this positively mammoth restaurant features two dining halls separated by a bar with a fountain in it. Of particular interest are the original 1959 murals, protected by the State along with much of the rest of the interior. The international food on offer is good, honest fare, although not likely to win any awards. The desserts are particularly fine, making this marvellous institution a good place to visit regardless of whether youre after a full meal or not. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. 30Lt. PTJAUBSW
Neringa A-1, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 261 40 58,
Anticaf G-3, Gedimino 46, tel. (+370) 648 969
New
Prie Katedros B-2, Gedimino 5, tel. (+370) 605 775
09, www.anticafe.lt. Added for a bit of a laugh more than anything else, Anticaf is precisely the kind of illfated affair weve grown to love over the years in Vilnius. The idea here is a simple one, namely that you pay to use the space, which as the name suggests totally isnt a caf, and use your time to network with other like-minded souls. Back home we have something similar and considerably cheaper. Its called visiting your friends at home. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PJW
Coffee Inn A-2, Vilniaus 17, tel. (+370) 655 777 63. One of the hippest addresses in town, find two floors of tables occupied by brightly coloured students taking advantage of the free wireless internet and updating their Facebook pages on their iPhones. The coffee, served Starbucks style, is excellent, as are many of the accompanying cakes, sandwiches, wraps, muffins, juices etc. Recommended for vegetarians are the superb grilled vegetable sandwiches, whilst the BLTs are an absolute treat. Also at Trak 7, Pilies 3, Gedimino 2, Gedimino 9, Gedimino 24, Gedimino 52, Didioji 6, Didioji 40, Vokiei 18, Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), Ozo 18 (Ozas). QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PJABSW Salentino Caf C-4, Didioji 28, tel. (+370) 676 820 15. Owned and operated by the club with the same name inside the same building, this quaint little caf overlooking Town Hall Square sells a range of drinks and snacks and for the summer features a super little terrace on which to sit and watch the hordes of tourists go trudging by. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 7Lt. PJAVBSW vieia Kava B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 5 260 96 53, www.svieziakava.lt. One of the countrys top coffee house chains, vieia Kavas Gedimino 9 outlet is housed inside a bookshop no less, making for the perfect environment to drink quality espresso and the like amidst a wealth of literature. Keep an eye out for their other branches around the city centre. Also at Gedimino 35, Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP), Ozo 18 (Ozas), Savanori 22, J. Balikonio 3. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PJAUSW Vero Caf B-2, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370) 618 554 77.
Good coffee and a range of snacks from an established chain caf. The interiors are slightly more interesting than most of their competitors and they play better music too. And if you dont want to hang around with a bunch of teenagers you can always take your coffee away and drink it elsewhere. Also at Didioji 30, Ozo 25 (Akropolis), Ozo 18 (Ozas), Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP), Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), Jasinskio 16, Ukmergs 369 (Big). QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Fri 07:30 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. JBSW
55, www.priekatedros.lt. Two recent visits to Prie Katedros have both been entirely positive, not least in part to the totally superb beer they brew on the premises of which the honey variety tastes like no other beer weve tasted and leaves one delightfully wobbly after just a couple. The food is also magnificent, with the soups worthy of a massive round of applause on their own. The beer snacks are excellent too, plus theres free wireless internet and a spooky-looking hologram to greet you at the bottom of the stairs. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 30Lt. PTJASW
5 210 30 12, www.ribroom.lt. The recently refashioned restaurant inside Vilnius Holiday Inn hotel has also seen a revamp of its menu. Whilst still offering an extensive range of international dishes, theyve really pushed the boat out here and now include several rib dishes that they claim to serve in surprisingly different ways. It all certainly looks impressive, plus theres plenty of other options including a couple of classic sandwiches served with fries, Crme Brle and one of the best-looking business lunches in the city. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:30 - 23:00. 40Lt. PTJAUBSW
Rib Room B-00, eimyniki 1 (Holiday Inn), tel. (+370)
Riverside A-00, Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva), tel. (+370) 5 231 48 21, www.riverside.lt. Consistently great food and service courtesy of this exemplary in-house hotel restaurant, the well-chosen international menu may not be the cheapest in the city but is worth the trip over the river to sample from it. As well as serving one of the best buffet breakfasts in town, theres also an excellent buffet lunch and plenty of dishes from the menu until late. The outdoor summer terrace, opposite the increasingly popular area by the river, is a fine place to visit, even if only for a drink. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. 45Lt. PTAULBSW
48 47, www.roastandbeer.lt. A self-styled antidote to the stresses of modern living, this Russian-owned venture is awash with wooden benches, photographs of celebrities, cheery waitresses and upbeat pop music. Designed to resemble that old favourite an English pub and aimed at a slightly older clientele of 20-somethings and upwards, the menu focuses primarily on English and Bavarian cuisine. Highly recommended is the marvellous steak, egg and chips. As of the summer 2012 they also have premises on Vilnius main street. Also at Gedimino 26. QOpen 11:00 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. PJASW
Roast & Beer Pub B-1, Tilto 13, tel. (+370) 5 212
Restaurants
41
30. Not bad for a cup of tea and a slice of cake, Skonis ir Kvapas (Taste and Smell) was long ago eclipsed by others who simply do it better. The international food on offer is more an afterthought than a reason to run a restaurant, although its not too bad if you do order it. Extra Brownie points for the attached shops selling tea, coffee and exotic tobacco products, find it just off the street down one of the areas plentiful alleyways. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. 15Lt. JABSW
Skonis ir Kvapas B-3, Trak 8, tel. (+370) 5 264 04
Juice bars
Instantly recognisable if youve ever been to Brighton or Berlin, this handsome-looking little juice bar that bears more than a passing resemblance to a 1970s hippys kitchen also sells a wealth of other things from biodegradable washing powder to samosas. The juice in question, which could do with being a little colder, is concocted by flustered girls with nose rings to a soundtrack courtesy of Bob Marley. Limited seating is available if you dont want to ingest your vitamins on the hoof. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Sulius B-2, Totori 15, tel. (+370) 603 531 02.
Sonnets D-2, Bernardin 8/8 (Shakespeare hotel), tel. (+370) 5 266 58 85, www.shakespeare.lt. That rare treat a hotel restaurant worth eating in, the Shakespeares in-house nosh-pit excels where others barely get off the ground. Sumptuous and elegant, everything here is polished to near perfection. A diverse menu tempts diners with all manner of delicacies from classic Lithuanian dishes to ostrich with chestnuts. All overseen by friendly and efficient staff, the price tag may be a little heavy but is worth every penny. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. PTJALBSW
ing the kind of good service one always hopes for but almost never gets in Lithuania, the menu is as imaginative as the person who cooks the dishes from it. We were looking for a snack and so opted for the soup of the day, which in this case was a creamed beetroot affair that was simply perfect. Added to this came a complimentary snack in the form of a large cloth bag of various breads and a small dish of pumpkin pure that was as interesting as it was excellent. The bill just looks too small considering what you get for your money, so if you happen to find yourself in this part of town we cant recommend this place enough. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. 37Lt. PTAUBW
Stebuklai G-3, Gynj 14, tel. (+370) 685 853 57. Featur-
April - July 2013
42
Restaurants
Studio 9 B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 698 529 99. Knowing Lithuania as well as we do, we thought this place was almost certainly going to go off the boil soon after opening but it just keeps getting better. Arguably one of the best places in the city to eat and drink this year, Studio 9 wouldnt look or feel out of place 1,000km to the west. Featuring their tremendous burger alongside a handsome menu of other excellent and unpretentious dishes, eating here is one option, but its also an excellent bar that serves good draught Guinness and a DJ venue. Surplus to the friendly service are a handful of intelligent touches such as hooks for jackets under the aforementioned bar and plenty of foam on the important parts of the ceiling to stop the music bouncing around uncontrollably. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. 30Lt. PJAEBSW
Terrano C-3, Pilies 34, tel. (+370) 615 555 11. Sades
Moroccan
Maghrib B-2, Totori 22, tel. (+370) 690 740 75.
New
Greatest Hits, a self-conscious waiter and three small lumps of cold puff pastry await those with the required sense of humour needed to visit Terrano, or at least they were when we stopped by at supper time. Occupying a former bar and club that was forced to close thanks to the current nonsensical politics of the Municipality, in its place is a restaurant that looks like it was invented by a committee who couldnt agree on anything. Not a total loss, the Caesar salad was at least enormous and came with plenty of good grilled chicken and the main course of ravioli (available both with meat and as a vegetarian option) was, if not exactly large, cooked well and came swimming in a good sauce. The menu also features such rarities as ostrich and tiger prawns, which if theyre prepared in the same manner as the food we ate should keep the punters coming. An interesting if not exactly recommended Old Town option. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. 26Lt. PTJAEBSW
Step through the oriental-looking shop and be prepared for yet another welcome addition to Vilnius currently blossoming restaurant scene. This small and decidedly friendly little restaurant serves a good choice of authentic Moroccan fare from spicy soups to couscous to an excellent sweet and pungent lamb dish cooked and served in a traditional tajine. In keeping with the local need to stare at something whilst eating theres a large television on the wall, usually playing a slide show of images of Morocco. The mint tea is also a real winner, served as it should be in a glass and made from green tea leaves and fresh mint. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. 25Lt. PTJASW
Time A-6, Mindaugo 27 (Comfort Hotel Lt), tel. (+370) 612 022 47. We tend to steer clear of hotel restaurants in general but we made a rare exception in the case of this newly opened recommended eatery. Bright and swishy in an entirely unpretentious way, find friendly staff on hand to serve dishes from a small but very good daily menu of international dishes alongside an inspired buffet. We opted for a simple vegetable soup which not only looked good but that left the kind of glowing feeling one only gets from quality cuisine. The accompanying French bread was perfect and crispy and came with a great little bowl of flavoured butter. Perhaps not the best location in town but worth a visit if youre interested in food made with imagination, a quality sadly lacking in most Vilnius restaurants. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Breakfast menu served 07:00 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 11:00. 27Lt. PTAUW vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
Veranda F-2, Kstuio 39, tel. (+370) 5 273 01 07.
Another vrynas classic, Veranda is a great place to eat in, to have too many beers with a friend in or to take a fussy elderly relative to. Theres live music several evenings a week, and out the back is a large garden complete with barbecue for splendidly lazy Sunday summer afternoons. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. 16Lt. TAEBSW 33 31, www.zoesbargrill.com. Although by no means extravagant, you get what you pay for, which here is quality food prepared in an open kitchen and served by waiting staff genuinely happy to see you. The dcor has an upmarket-diner feel to it, plus there are a couple of excellent beers to compliment the food. Consistently great, which is a very rare thing indeed in this city. Recommended. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Mon 11:30 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 11:30 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 27Lt. PTJABSV
43
Zoes Bar & Grill B-2, Odmini 3, tel. (+370) 5 212
Da Antonio B-2, Vilniaus 23, tel. (+370) 5 262 01 09, www.antonio.lt. An old favourite with several embassies in town, Da Antonio is everything an Italian restaurant should be. Classy without any unnecessary frills and with superb people-watching windows at the front, native Italian chef Manfredo Molteni oversees a menu including fresh fish soup, grilled beef fillet and a wealth of great pasta dishes for meat eaters and vegetarians alike. Theres a great choice of Italian wines to compliment plus some truly gut-busting desserts for those who can cram a little more in. Also at Vilniaus 6/16. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 50Lt. PTJABSW
Italian
Home delivery
Too lazy or hungover to go out and get something to eat? The following all provide home delivery services. Delivery charges range from free to 20Lt depending on venue and total cost of order. Venue Tel. Website www.cancan.lt www.1822.lt www.kinuvirtuve.lt www.indaysushi.lt www.labuki.lt www.mambo.lt www.manoguru.lt www.sushi.lt www.submarinas.lt www.suesindianraja.lt Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat10:00 - 24:00 24 hours 11:00 - 22:00, Sat12:00 - 23:00, Sun12:00 - 22:00 10:00 - 21:00 11:00 - 23:00, Fri11:00 - 24:00, Sat12:00 - 24:00, Sun12:00 - 23:00 10:00 - 23:30 07:00 - 21:00, Fri07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun09:00 - 20:00 11:00 - 21:00, Sun11:00 - 20:00 10:00 - 22:45, Fri, Sat10:00 - 24:00, Sun11:00 - 22:45 11:00 - 23:00 Cuisine Pizza Chinese, Lithuanian, Pizza, Sushi Chinese Sushi Japanese, Korean Pizza Salad, international Japanese Pizza, international Indian
CanCan Pizza (+370) 659 887 77 ili 1822
Didioji Kinija (+370) 5 263 63 63 In Day Sushi Labuki Mambo Pizza Mano Guru Miyako Submarine Sues Indian Raja (+370) 646 277 72 (+370) 686 884 88 (+370) 688 888 88 (+370) 5 212 23 99 1315 (+370) 800 233 23 (+370) 5 266 18 88
April - July 2013
44
Restaurants
Fiorentino C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 09 25, www.fiorentino.lt. A good choice of Tuscan dishes with accompanying Tuscan wine, all overseen by an Italian from the region with the kind of passion sadly almost never seen in the city. Inside its all plain white interiors and specials chalked on the blackboard, whilst the warmer months add a magnificent 16th-century Renaissance courtyard into the bargain. Tuscany is of course considered the birthplace of the Renaissance, so its rather fitting that the restaurant should be here. Brilliant stuff. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00, Fri 11:30 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 30Lt. TJABW
594 20. Not your typical Italian restaurant, Osteria da Luca opts for a more nouvelle cuisine approach to its cooking and does it surprisingly well. Situated inside a fine Old Town building with a snazzy dining area at ground level and an atmospheric cellar, theres also the option during the summer on its small outdoor terrace opposite the fine Franciscan Church. We were particularly impressed with the fresh pasta, although theres plenty more on offer besides but be warned that this is nouvelle cuisine, meaning most of the things on the menu arent going to fill you up. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 25Lt. PABSW
Osteria da Luca B-4, Trak 11/2, tel. (+370) 679
Piazzetta Italia G-3, Gedimino 35 (Pirkli Klubas), tel. (+370) 620 565 65. This fine restaurant and Italian delicatessen conceals some surprising magic taking place in the kitchen. For half the price of what we paid the day before for a plate of rubbish in a so-called exclusive restaurant, in here we had the best Caesar salad ever eaten in Lithuania followed by a bowl of fresh pasta that left us glowing and stuck to the seat. Even better, if you dont like whats on the small menu theyll happily modify it to suit your wishes. Nice one. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 25Lt. PTJAUSW
657 77, www.stvalentino.lt. An unbeatable location and years of good service mark St. Valentino out as one of Vilnius most beloved and respected restaurants by the citys business community and wealthy citizens who continue to favour the place over any other. Whilst wolfing down a plate of their excellent Italian food, expect to rub shoulders with anyone from foreign millionaires to politicians to trophy wives. Choose to dine in discreet comfort, with the help of a television or, as the weather improves outside on their great little people-watching terrace. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. PTJABSW
St. Valentino B-3, Vilniaus 47/18, tel. (+370) 652
Vapiano A-00, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370) 5 238 34 89, www.vapiano.lt. Redolent of a millionaires greenhouse, its all stone, marble and oak with a particular emphasis on flora and natural light in here, the perfect environment in fact for quality Italian food in the city. Featuring open kitchens making pasta, salads and pizza, the food is made using fresh ingredients and comes in ample portions. Weve eaten here four times now and cant complain at all. A super place to eat in an area crying out for this kind of quality. Note that the kitchen closes 30 minutes before they lock the doors. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 20Lt. PTAIBSW
Restaurants
International fast-casual restaurant concept now in Vilnius! Best venue in town!
45
PIZZAS, PASTAS
starting from
13.90 LTL 10.90 LTL

WWW.VAPIANO.LT
VILNIUS TALLINN STOCKHOLM LONDON VIENNA AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG COLOGNE BUDAPEST
starting from
SALADS
Japanese
http://www.labuki.lt. With suave surroundings and a ch oice of rooms including a main area wi th large windows overlookin g th e Town Hall, Labuki offers a wealth of dishes to please all tastes and budgets. The good-looking sushi sets are well priced and flavoured, the tempura is terrific and the solitary noodle dish with beef is absolutely out of this world. The Korean chef also makes a mean soup and the classic Oriental desser ts are ver y good indeed. There are fresh flowers on the tables, the service is friendly and theres also a good value business lunch menu. People who prefer to eat with a knife and fork are strongly advised to ask for them when ordering their food. Also at Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 240 55 55. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. PJAVSW
Labuki C-4, Didioji 28, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 88,
Miyako A-00, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370) 618

521 12, www.miyako.lt. Miyako provides the full Japanese experience without shoving it down your throat. What you should shove down your throat are selections from the sushi and sashimi menus, all prepared in the front bar area, and all very good indeed for Vilnius. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. 25Lt. PTASV
osaka.lt. Recommended quality Japanese classic and modern favourites including nigiri sushi, hoso maki, sashimi, pungent spicy soups, noodles and more inside a wee little restaurant between Old Town and Gedimino. Ideal for meals out, Osaka also provides good value takeaway lunch sets, and, unlike many others in town, they manage to keep their standards high and are very well regarded by many who know a thing or two about Japanese food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25 - 30Lt. PTJABSW
Osaka A-2, Vilniaus 19, tel. (+370) 5 261 71 76, www.
April - July 2013
46
Restaurants
Salad
Mano Guru B-2, Vilniaus 22/1, tel. (+370) 5
212 01 26, http://www.manoguru.lt. Opened in August 2004 and still going strong, the recommended Mano Guru offers a mind-boggling array of substantial salads plus desserts and soft drinks in something of a boutique setting. Popular particularly with women watching their weight, other people are encouraged to visit not least because of the idea behind the place. Begun on the initiative of local legend and resurrected mayor of Vilnius Artras Zuokas, over half of the staff working here are recovering drug addicts involved in whats probably the most enlightened project in the city, and one thats well worth supporting. QOpen 07:00 21:00, Fri 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. 15Lt. TJAVSW considering the rate at which its pumped out of the kitchen. An interesting point worth noting is that the last vegetable soup we had here had bits of chicken in it. Also at Gedimino 14. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. 16Lt. PTJAVBSW
Forto Dvaras C-2, Pilies 16, tel. (+370) 656 136 88,
Sura H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 277 70 00, www. sura.lt. A brilliantly thrown-together design of bare concrete, flashing lights and a few more conservative elements surround diners whilst they feast on a menu made up of mostly decent sushi plus a few classic Korean dishes. The pulkogi was a bit lacking in vegetables but the beef was good and the sauce was exceptional. They even serve it with short grain rice for that final authentic touch. The giggling (homegrown) waitresses are fun too, although why they chose to put it in a shopping centre in the middle of nowhere with a rather depressing view is hard to fathom. Definitely worth the bother anyway. A taxi there if called in advance is about 15Lt. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 20Lt. PTASW
Korean
www.fortas.eu. One of a number of chain restaurants selling the idea of traditional local cuisine as a fusion of farmyard themes and sophistication, this perfectly located restaurant on the busiest street in Old Town provides consistently good food at affordable prices. Complete with colour photographs to help you choose, the menu is packed with classic dishes including the marvellous kepta duona, a good choice when waiting for a main dish, soup served in a loaf of bread and some simple but recommended desserts. We recently had the borsch with meat followed by some truly outstanding potato pancakes with bacon and mushroom sauce of which both can also be ordered for vegetarians. The service, provided by girls dressed in neo-folk outfits, is friendly and relatively efficient and the prices are exceptionally good considering the location. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. TJABSW
Lithuanian
There are essentially two types of Lithuanian restaurant in Lithuania. The first and most obvious variety features pigtailed waitresses in national dress serving plates of potatoes and beetroot soup in an atmosphere reminiscent of an old barn. The second is less easy to pin down, and is perhaps best described as a restaurant or caf serving predominantly but not exclusively Lithuanian favourites in an atmosphere you wont find anywhere other than in Lithuania. Rather than insult the best intentions of the good restaurant owners of Vilnius and call the former of the two Folk restaurants, we choose to list both types of restaurant together.
Gedimino Dvaras A-1, Gedimino 26, tel. (+370) 604 979 49, www.gedimino-dvaras.lt. Taking the classic Lithuanian dining experience to the white tablecloth zone demands a lot of courage, and these people more or less pull it off. Combining local and traditional cuisine, everything is cooked in an open kitchen and presented with the kind of exquisite style one doesnt usually associate with the humble potato. Its a bit cheeky really, what with most of the dishes on offer being by definition peasant food, but its about time somebody tried to do something special with something so ordinary. Combined with a visit to one of Vilnius less ostentatious Lithuanian restaurants a visit here serves as an excellent introduction to the kind of food theyve been shovelling in their mouths here for centuries. An interesting anomaly indeed, Gedimino Dvaras can also organise large banquets and other social eating events. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. PJAEBSW
49, www.grafzeppelin.lt. One of the citys more clever anomalies, bask in antiquity and fill yourself up with whats claimed to be the largest cepelinai in the capital. The good value menu is made up of a range of Lithuanian and German dishes, most notably the aforementioned blimps which now feature as the Lithuanian national dish and that were surely based on something the Hun brought to the country it occupied during WWI. All in all a great place for a full blown, gut-busting meal and an equally enjoyable atmosphere when theyre busy. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. 22Lt. PJASW
Graf Zeppelin C-4, Saviiaus 9, tel. (+370) 674 629
Aula C-2, Pilies 11, tel. (+370) 5 268 71 73, www. aularestoranas.lt. A mixed Lithuanian and international menu of competent cooking brought to your table by staff whose lack of expertise is usually more than made up for by their friendliness. The last serving of potato pancakes eaten here went down a treat, plus theres the added advantage of a downstairs live music club. Summertime brings a small terrace and large courtyard to this classic Old Town favourite. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. 30Lt. PTJAUBS ili Kaimas B-4, Vokiei 8, tel. (+370) 5 231 25 36, www.cili.lt. Walt Disney meets The Waltons inside the countrys most popular folk restaurant chain. Resplendent accessories include small farmyard animals to keep the children entertained, agricultural implements on the walls and a surprisingly friendly and efficient bunch of waitresses scuttling about in traditional costumes. The menu of artery-clogging indigenous dishes is pretty good Vilnius In Your Pocket
Pancakes
La Crepe A-1, Gedimino 13, tel. (+370) 616 465 49, http://www.lacrepe.lt. Featuring a fairly gargantuan collection of pancakes both sweet and sour in the perfect central location, as well as serving the aforementioned blynai this is also a worthy place for a quick coffee and a slice of cake. Popular with the local workers in the area, the menu extends well beyond the pancake zone to include hot dishes from both home and abroad and that all time favourite, pizza. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. PJABSW
Restaurants
47
Katpdl I-1, Lukio 34, tel. (+370) 5 278 88 14, www.katpedele.lt. A popular national chain of restaurants serving classic Lithuanian dishes in a folksy setting as well as more international offerings and that old favourite the lunchtime special offer. Find them scattered around the city and the country. An excellent value introduction to the wonders of local heart-blocking nosh. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Thu 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 14Lt. PABSW
79. Strange Signs has been busily keeping a low profile in Old Town for a very long time indeed, a fact that deserves some recognition. Although dining here could never really be classed as a memorable experience, the experience is at least worth the time, effort and money. The menu lurches from taste bud to taste bud, offering a mind-boggling choice of food from local specialties to average pizza. Cheap beer too. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 11Lt. PJAS
Keisti enklai B-3/4, Trak 13, tel. (+370) 5 261 07
Lokys C-4, Stikli 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 90 46, www.lokys. lt. One of Vilnius best known restaurants, Lokys (The Bear) opened its doors to rouble-paying customers way back in 1972 in the Gothic cellars of an Old Town building dating back to the late 15th century and has been serving so-called traditional hunters dishes amidst a slightly tongue-in-cheek backdrop ever since. The limited menu focuses on unusual dishes including quail, venison and even beaver, with a couple of vegetarian options to keep everybody happy. Live music happens from time to time, plus you can rent the entire place for the full blown medieval experience. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 40Lt. JABW
Raw
Raw42 B-5, Rdnink 12, tel. (+370) 659 530 29, www.raw42.lt. Located in a little triangle of Vilnius currently making something of a name for itself, the food stretches beyond sandwiches and they even offer short courses in making food. Very trendy and very welcome, note that none of the food is cooked at a temperature higher that +42C. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. 10Lt. JS Raw Raw C-2, Totori 3, tel. (+370) 699 520 22, www.rawraw.lt. Good healthy food made from unprocessed ingredients with almost nothing on the menu cooked, the selection of dishes on offer is fairly extensive, including everything from vitamin-packed salads to pasta dishes made from vegetables. Also a good selection of freshly squeezed fruit juices. QOpen 11:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. 17Lt. PTJABSW
Koldnin C-4, Saviiaus 6, tel. (+370) 679 262 59. For the uninitiated, koldnai are the Lithuanian version of ravioli, pelmeni, pierogi etc., small pillows of dough encasing a range of fillings. This friendly place in the heart of Old Town makes it on the premises and serves it in two sizes. Fillings include beef, chicken, mutton, cottage cheese and spinach plus one with sweet berries. An excellent introduction to the simplicities of local cuisine. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. 12Lt. PTJASW
April - July 2013
48
Restaurants
5 272 50 87. Fairytale waitresses deliver meals the size of your head from a menu of traditional Lithuanian dishes featuring more calories than there are stars in the universe. Located somewhat strangely in the middle of a large concrete housing estate, this barnlike restaurant is strewn with such archaic eye candy as wooden bicycles hung from the ceiling and a pink and green threshing machine by the front door. Large tables make this a firm favourite for families and groups. Gentlemen confronted with the strange machine in the toilet should know that it really is for weeing in. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 17Lt. TAEBSW
Marceliuks Kltis I-2, Tuskuln 35, tel. (+370)
Uzbek
411 19, www.caichana.lt. Pay no attention to the garish dcor and the bewildered staff bumbling about with grubby orange Crocs on their feet and what youve got here is a truly outstanding restaurant, assuming you eat meat that is. The lagman (laghman) takes an age to arrive, but the homemade noodles and exquisite sauce are more than worth the time and effort the chef put into them. Also on offer on the Lithuanian-only menu are Uzbek kebabs, lots of delicious dishes made with fresh yoghurt, a recommended mantai (manti) and hot bread made on the premises. The place also functions as a tea house and has a room set aside strictly for this purpose. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 17Lt. PTJUNSW 04 29, http://www.uzbekistan.lt. A truly welcome addition to Vilnius restaurant scene, Uzbekistanas operates on the posher end of the dcor scale but stays true to the cuisine of the country the place is named after. The only problem here is knowing what to choose, either because Uzbek food has passed you by entirely or because every dish demands to be eaten. Amidst a fine selection of items on the menu including a chayhana plov that needs to be ordered 90 minutes in advance alongside the more usual plov we went for the lagman, a spicy lamb and noodle soup thats almost a meal in itself and a plate of manti, essentially oversized ravioli with soured cream that were both prepared and cooked to perfection. Its a bit pricey here, but well worth the expense. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. 25Lt. PT JAUEBSW
aichana A-4, Naugarduko 14, tel. (+370) 611
Senoji Trobel G-5, Naugarduko 36, tel. (+370) 609
990 02, www.senojitrobele.lt. Perfect if youre staying in one of the hotels nearby and worth the walk up the hill from Old Town to eat here, this intimate folk-themed restaurant is one of the best examples of its kind in the country. We like the place, especially on a sunny day when its possible to eat and drink on their fine small terrace. The food is classic unpretentious local cuisine, tastes good and is equally superb value for money. If youd like to take a little piece of the place home, their unique crockery is available for sale. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 20Lt. TAULVBSW
Uzbekistanas A-1, Vienuolio 4, tel. (+370) 5 261
73, www.zemaiciai.lt. A brilliant collection of medieval cellars designed for a slightly upmarket folk-themed dining experience, ignore the international dishes and plunge into the traditional food. Those eating in groups should consider one of the big mixed platters, which are good value and fun to share. Also worth trying is the fresh in-house beer, made in the old-fashioned unpasteurised fashion and a rare treat indeed. Also check out their fast weekday lunch if youre in a hurry. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. PJABS
emaiiai B-4, Vokiei 24, tel. (+370) 5 261 65
Pizza
Basilico A-4, Pylimo 21, tel. (+370) 650 516 80, www.
basilico-pica.lt. Sat on a corner next to a bus stop and an abandoned cinema Basilico is easily overlooked, which is a shame because they currently serve the best pizza in Vilnius. Using proper mozzarella and baked in a wood oven, these reasonably priced masterpieces are best eaten with fresh basil which is provided by a plant dumped on the table by one of the waitresses after you order. Popular with families and busy during the week, as if the pizza isnt temptation enough they even make their own pasta. Very recommended indeed. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. 16Lt. PTJA6EBSW
Pizza Hut Express H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5
259 61 28. Under new management and a much better experience all round, Lithuanias adventures into the world of pizza franchising are finally worth talking about with a positive spin. The slice of deep-pan pizza we recently gobbled down hit the spot exactly. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 13Lt. PTAUSW
www.cili.lt. Domination of the local market means either an element of bad business practice or the ability to get things right, which in the case of this long-standing chain of pizza restaurants the latter most definitely applies. True, an Italian may not be overly impressed with the pizzas (they at best edible) but theres plenty else on the menu which, in the case of the grilled meat dishes is usually very good indeed and affordable for all but the most budget-conscious travellers. Weve recently been experimenting with their small breakfast menu and have been impressed with the excellent value omelettes and the fried eggs with toast and salad. Its also worth mentioning that the service is never bad, and can at times be exceptionally excellent. Also at Didioji 5. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Fri 09:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 10:00 - 03:00. 15Lt. PTJAVBSW
ili Pica A-1, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 261 90 71,
Pizza Jazz B-4, Vokiei 24, tel. (+370) 5 212 36 46, www.pj.lt. As good as any of the other Lithuania pizza chain restaurants clogging up the country, Pizza Jazz started life in Kaunas over a decade ago and has grown from a small company operating out of a handful of cheesy-themed outlets to something altogether more sophisticated. The pizza bases they make here are better than most, although they still insist on covering them with the kind of nonsense to make an Italian weep. Avoid the fancy ones and youll be fine if not exactly over impressed. The menu also includes a number of other dishes for diners who dont want to take the risk. Also at J. Jasinskio 16, Ozo 25, Savanori 16. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 20Lt. PTJABSW Pomodoro A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00
22, www.pomodoro.lt. After numerous visits to several Pomodoro restaurants its still almost impossible to fault them. For the price, the pizza and pasta are up there with the best, whilst the steak continues to amaze and
Restaurants
49
impress. Service is attentive, salads lower their standard during the winter like they do anywhere in the north, and the early morning pancakes continue to be a fine way to start the day. Also at P . Lukio 32. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 20Lt. PTJAUBSW
Mexican
Sofa de Pancho B-5, Vis ventj 5, tel. (+370) 673 890 02. We like whats currently going on in this part of town. Development may be slow, but its always interesting. Sofa de Pancho may not have any Mexicans working in the open kitchen but that doesnt stop them from being enthusiastic and actually not too bad at cooking. Probably the best thing about the place though, like the bar next door, is that everythings been thrown together in a jumble-sale fashion that quite simply adds a touch of class to a city with just too many sterile restaurants. Try the breakfast tortillas if youre feeling brave and dont do what we did and turn up on a Tuesday evening assuming thered be a table. Reserve in advance to avoid disappointment. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 25Lt. TJABSW Tres Mexicanos C-2, Tilto 2, tel. (+370) 674 186 00, www.tresmexicanos.lt. The Mexican-owned Tres Mexicanos continues to be the best place in town for authentic Mexican food. Boasting a superb location just around the corner from the Cathedral, this intimate, brightly decorated affair features all the classic dishes plus proper beer to wash it down with, all overseen by people in the kitchen who know how to make the stuff and waiting staff who can advise on important issues such as which dish is likely to blow your head off. Further proof that Vilnius is no longer a provincial backwater but a city to be reckoned with.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 22:00, Wed, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. 21Lt. PJABS April - July 2013
Uupio Picerija D-3, Paupio 3, tel. (+370) 5 215 36
66. Parked in a street just around the corner from the Uupis Angel, this tip-top pizza joint is either bustling and busy or dead as a door nail. Whatever state its found in, the pizza they serve is decent enough if not exactly gourmet. Eschew the other meals and stick to the house food and youll be just fine. Service is of course amusing, and the outdoor seating during the warmer part of the year is exceedingly pleasant. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 17Lt. JABSW
Sandwiches
Now in its third incarnation and possessing its third name in as many years, the best thing about this place was the fact that they somehow managed to get a bus inside. Sadly, the new management have seen fit to not exactly throw it out but to cunningly disguise it so it just looks a bit like a bank. Out go the pancakes and the kebabs and in comes a small choice of sandwiches including one vegetarian option and a handful of soups. The location is unbeatable, although for the simple pleasure of eating meat wrapped in bread we recommend the kebab shop at the far bottom of the street on the right. Also at Jasinskio 16a. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Fri 07:30 - 05:00, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. 9 Lt. JA
Gimme C-5, Auros Vart 4, tel. (+370) 685 006 84.
50
Restaurants
Sriubos Namai B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 683 152 56. For a country where soup is served at every possible opportunity, this under-performing soup restaurant hidden away inside a large shopping centre misses the mark by a long shot. The soup may not be bad, but it rarely excites the taste buds much, plus, with the addition of accompanying thin slices of often stale bread, what youve got is a sad attempt at a restaurant in a street usually better known for its good food. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. 12Lt. PTAUSW
Soup
Steak
Bff Steak House Vilnius C-1, Olimpiei 1, tel.
(+370) 663 509 69, www.boff.lt. It would be really good news if Bff actually delivers on a regular basis what it promises, namely the best steaks in the country in pleasant surroundings. To be fair theyve got off to a good start since opening a while back in a modern setting with a few nods to the past just north of river. Lets hope the good news continues. As for the food itself, the steaks are very good indeed, plus theres burgers and fish and a range of good soups to start plus a handful of desserts and drinks to wash it all down with. Although the location could be a lot better, its actually not that far to reach over the bridge if youre in the area around the National Museum, or, even closer, the excellent Lithuanian Energy and Technology Museum. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. 49Lt. PTJASW
Markus ir Ko C-3, M. Antokolskio 11, tel. (+370) 5 262
31 85, www.markusirko.lt. Serving various bits of cow to those who can afford it for as long as many care to remember, Markus ir Ko is an institution that fails to go away. Once famed for cooking the best steak in the capital, this slightly casual yet definitely upscale restaurant has long since been eclipsed by others but still knocks out by almost everybodys account a damn fine steak. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 60Lt. PTJAEBSW
Meat Lovers Pub B-3, v. Ignoto 14, tel. (+370)
652 512 33, www.meatloverspub.lt. Cooking meat to perfection, we had a steak that couldnt be argued with, a soup that was up there with soups costing five times as much and some pork that was absolutely the best meat weve eaten in Vilnius for months. The service isnt great and there wasnt much in the way of heating, but dont let these minor blips deter diners from some of the best value meat in town. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. 25Lt. PTA6BSW
Hotel), tel. (+370) 5 212 13 89, www.mabre.lt. Using beef from cattle grazed on Lithuanian grassland, Steak House Hazienda has been through a bit of a wobbly period but is now back on track. We recently demolished a sirloin steak which was cooked perfectly and that came with an excellent choice of garnishes. Beware of the complimentary appetiser of home-made bread, as it may leave you with no space left inside to finish the main course. A welcome return of high standards from one of our old favourites. QOpen 12:00 24:00. 60Lt. PTJAEBW
Steak House Hazienda D-3, Maironio 13 (Mabre
Steak House Helios C-4, Didioji 28, tel. (+370) 5 260 90 09, www.steakhouse.lt. Boasting one of the best locations in town and first opening its doors a decade ago, Steak House Helios not only serves some of best fresh steaks in the capital complete with a mind-boggling array of Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
sauces, they also offer plenty more besides. The extensive menu is crammed with good things including salads galore, fish, grilled meats and a range of excellent desserts. Theres also a very good wine list to complement the food, the offer of some knock-out business lunches and a classic view of Old Town down below. Often busy, visitors in groups are advised to book in advance. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. 35Lt. PTJAESW
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In Day Sushi X-00, irmn 2 (IKI Commercial Centre), tel. (+370) 609 724 45, www.indaysushi.lt. The simple lunch counter at the top of the escalators knocking boxes of sushi out at extremely affordable prices proves to anyone who was ever in any doubt that sushi is more than just a fancy food that its also a cheap and interesting alternative to the humble sandwich. Each plastic box comes with eight pieces of sushi including a couple of vegetarian options, plus wasabi, pickled ginger and a small container of soy sauce. Especially recommended for visitors wandering on the northern side of the river in an area not exactly flooded with restaurants. Also at A. Gotauto 40a. QOpen 10:30 - 21:30. Omakase Sushi & Grill A-2, Vilniaus 31, tel. (+370) 607 488 15. Worth a visit for the location alone, Omakase Sushi & Grill floats above the ground in an entirely glassed-in courtyard right on the edge of Old Town. The menu, as the name suggests, features both sushi and other more substantial dishes, by all accounts extremely well prepared if, by Vilnius standards anyway, a little on the expensive side. Recommended is the snow crab sushi, a real bank-emptier but worth every penny. Keep an eye out for the pixie-looking metal figures as you enter, part of the original features of the courtyard and designed to stop the original horse-drawn carriages from wrecking the plaster on the walls. Q Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 45Lt. PTJAUSW Shimai Sushi & Wine A-3, Pylimo 8/2, tel. (+370)
677 750 74. The catch-all name aimed at two of the citys current fads doesnt do this place justice, and despite the uninspiring atmosphere the sushi at least stands head and shoulders above most of the other sushi in town. The deep-fried vegetarian tempura version really is knockout proving that for once you cant judge a book by its cover. Recommended for the food if nothing else. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 14Lt. PJAVBSW
Sushi
Spanish
California Tapas & Wine C-5, Subaiaus 2, tel. (+370) 652 655 51, www.california.lt. Growing from strength to strength, its a breath of fresh air to see a restaurant in Lithuania improve over time rather than the usual opposite. Aiming to introduce tapas to the local population among other things, this Spanishthemed restaurant-bar on two floors provides a bit of everything, from a first-floor caf complete with open kitchen serving dishes including Basque fish soup to grilled meat to a labyrinth of rooms downstairs for long evenings of eating and drinking. Service is friendly, the dcor has some extraordinary touches downstairs and the wine list is impressive. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. 20Lt. PTJASW
April - July 2013
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Restaurants
Vegetarian
Balti Drambliai B-3, Vilniaus 41, tel. (+370) 5 262 08 75. Struggle down a set of wobbly medieval steps to a cacophony of sitars and whale songs to be served a range of average vegetarian fare from a menu that regularly changes colour but more or less stays the same otherwise by waitresses whose cigarette breaks often bring them back inside with big grins on their faces. Welcome to the crazy world of Balti Drambliai (White Elephants), the restaurant that didnt put the hip in hippy but thats worth a visit all the same. The foods cheap and perfectly safe (try the massive plates of homemade French fries), and the live music and parties can be fun, especially when its warm outside and they open up their legendary terrace. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. PJABW Radharan A-1, Gedimino 32, tel. (+370) 5 212 31 86, www.radharane.lt. Just when you thought you were safe, Radharan moves to the city centre. Its not the philosophy of these people that rubs, because wholesome, Indian-themed vegetarian food is to be applauded at every opportunity. Its just that they dont know how to cook it. The food is either bland or encompasses an entirely bizarre concoction of spices, the pakoras and koftas are ok but get served as a main dish and theres also that unsettling microwave-like ping coming from the kitchen just before the waitress appears with your meal. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. 14Lt. PTABSW Tavo Erdv C-00, eimyniki 26, tel. (+370) 683 935 50. A combined vegetarian restaurant and holistic-style health and healing centre, Tavo Erdv (Your Space) churns out good value health-conscious food for a limited number of hours a day whilst simultaneously offering everything from cookery courses to medication to lectures. Possibly not the ideal tourist destination but worth mentioning all the same, find it in a difficult location north of the river. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 6Lt. S
659 770 72. An excellent little addition to Vilnius small selection of vegetarian restaurants, this one features an impressive menu of dishes made from fresh ingredients and with a nod in the general direction of Asia. The freshly squeezed fruit juices are especially good here and the food comes in all shapes and sizes from simple snacks to full blown meals. Also at Totori 3. QOpen 11:00 - 21:30. 11Lt. JABS 79. Its all funny haircuts, constant references to ganja and A Tribe Called Quest inside Vilnius hippest vegetarian restaurant. Friendly if your face fits and good value for money, the foods basic but edible, although writing the menu on one of the tablecloths is a bit silly. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Thu 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. 12Lt. TJW
Sushi Express G-3, J. Jasinskio 16a, tel. (+370) 699
693 43, www.sushiexpress.lt. Its a bit cheeky using the word express in a restaurant name when waiting can easily take 40 minutes or so, but if you can put up with a long wait youll probably be as impressed with Sushi Express as we are. The local lad in their new Konstitucijos venue who makes the stuff looks like hes only just stopped wearing short trousers but he certainly knows his stuff. The menu is impressive, and the last offering of tempura yasai we gorged on was absolutely spot on. If not the best then certainly the most consistent place for sushi in town. Also at Konstitucijos 20. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 13Lt. PABSW
Tapas
The cracking little medieval cellar space under Cozy now operates in the guise of a lounge-like tapas bar. The delicacies in question more or less measure up to the real thing, the English-speaking staff are frightfully nice and, if youre the type of person who doesnt agree with fancy food, its possible to spend hours down there soaking up nothing more than the atmosphere and lots and lots of alcohol. The attached restaurant-bar upstairs is pretty good too. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 10Lt. PJASW
Nio B-3, Dominikon 10, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 37.
Ukrainian
Dont be put off by the folk art motifs covering the walls nor for that matter by the staff in folk costumes because if its Ukrainian food cooked well, which it is here, then the Disneyland stuff doesnt matter. Up at the far western end of Gedimino just around the corner from the main street, the walk is worth every bit of effort. Theres something about Ukrainian food that, despite it mostly being the same as the rest of the traditional food found in this part of the world, stands head and shoulders above the rest. Start with a cracking bowl of borsch and let the friendly staff take you through the rest of the menu. Good value and definitely recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 15Lt. TJABSW
Leleko G-3, Gedimino 49/2, tel. (+370) 633 304 37.
Vegaf C - 4, Augustijon 2/13, tel. (+370)
Valgyklas
Translating into English as dining room or canteen, the classic Lithuanian valgykla offers students and workers simple, hearty meals in unsophisticated surroundings at rock bottom prices. Open daily for a few short hours during the working week, the following establishments provide budget nosh and a step back in time for visitors to the city who need to watch their pennies. Dont expect English menus or polyglots among the staff. A student in the queue should be able to help, or, if you have to, point at something somebodys already eating. In true valgykla style, these places dont have a name, so we just call them what theyre called.
Vieta B-3, v. Ignoto 12-1, tel. (+370) 672 115
Valgykla H-3, Pamnkalnio 15/6. A handful of little tables ensure that a short wait is often required if you dont want to eat your lunch standing up. The wait, however, is worth it as the hot meals are both nutritious and laughably cheap. Find the entrance a little way down Vasario 16-osios on the right-hand side of the street. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Nightlife
The Lithuanian capitals disparate nightlife options run the breadth of all things imaginable for any taste and budget, from quiet cafs full of serious-looking men huddled over a game of chess to steamy underground caverns dedicated to the time-honoured pursuit of getting ordinarily level-headed businessmen so horribly drunk that they willingly empty the contents of their bank account inside a strippers knickers. Now that the citys wine-drinking crowd have been given their own places to imbibe, Vilnius nightlife entrepreneurs are turning their attention to the subject of beer, namely with the regular opening of a new place selling brown frothy drinks made in small microbreweries around the country. The best are of course listed here. Clubs remain almost exclusively mainstream, whilst the citys gay and lesbian scene is almost as far underground as a Soviet nuclear test site. With the exception of perhaps Pyongyang, no capital city in the world is without its more sinister side, and that includes Vilnius. Violence and alcohol occasionally combust into fisticuffs, and with wages to make a sweatshop worker stay in bed its no surprise to learn that wallets, mobile phones and even the occasional camera disappear from ineptly attended tables, pockets and bags. Finally, face control is ever on the rise. If yours doesnt fit, forget it. Have fun! during the week but can get busy and full of testosterone-filled men in leather jackets during the weekend. The two pool tables upstairs are a disaster, but quite good fun after a few beers. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JAEBW
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Briusly A-2, Islandijos 4, tel. (+370) 691 412 05, www. briusly.lt. Looking like the set of a Costa Rican childrens television programme, Briusly (Bruce Lee) straddles that difficult area between bar and club, just about managing to pull the whole thing off. Colourful dcor and pretty young things make up the decoration, with nights out dedicated to all manner of things from surreal cocktail sessions to student parties to the occasionally sublime DJ. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 07:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. JAXW
www.cactusbar.lt. Wobbling past the door the other night we found ourselves popping into Cactus for a nightcap and, despite having drunk half the bars in the city dry, we failed to have a good time. Once a worthwhile place to chuck a beer and tequila down your neck as part of an enjoyable night out, the place has been hijacked by teenagers, including the staff of whom our barely clad waitress must have only recently celebrated her 18th and who did a terrible job impressing us by not knowing the difference between and empty plate and one that still has food on it. Magnificent if youre on the lookout for a virgin bride. Avoid at all other costs. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. JAB
Cactus C-3, Bokto 7, tel. (+370) 5 215 30 00, http://
Alaus Studija I-1, S. ukausko 20, tel. (+370) 685 608 85. Exactly why it took just over a thousand years for somebody to open a really outstanding bar in Vilnius is anyones guess, but open it they finally did. True, the location could be more central, but when its as good as this theres no particular need to complain. Selling only foreign beers alongside a few stronger options and decorated with leftover technology from the recently expired Lithuanian Film Studios, the Murphys is refreshingly affordable and goes down a treat. A menu of bar snacks is also available, plus theres hot nachos, nuts and blankets for chilly spring evenings sat outside on the terrace. A taxi from Old Town shouldnt cost more than 10Lt. Highly recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. PAB
223 66. A Vilnius institution thats been kicking around almost forever, Amatinink Ueiga (The Craftsmens Tavern) finds its way into the guide by default more than by anything else. Not exactly a bar and by no stretch of the imagination a restaurant, the place continues for reasons unknown to us to attract large crowds of punters throughout the year and especially during the summer when they open an enormous terrace in front of the Town Hall. The choice of beers is hardly inspirational and the food is adequate if little else. Impersonal and featuring a gaggle of forgettable staff, dont be surprised to find the place packed. Vilnius wouldnt be the same without it. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 07:00. PJABW
Bars
Summer bars
Geleinis Vilkas C-3, K. Sirvydo skveras, tel. (+370) 615 810 37. The reappearance of this humble outdoor offering is a welcome relief to those in the know. Although theres nothing particularly breathtaking about a bunch of chairs and tables and a limited range of alcohol served from a caravan, the secret here is that, unlike most terraces in Old Town, the sun shines that little bit longer before setting. An excellent outdoor drinking option indeed. No DJs either. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. JAB Vasaros Terasa B-3, Vilniaus 39, tel. (+370) 620
856 89. Inside the large Mokytoj Namai courtyard, Vasaros Terasa (Summer Terrace) functions as all things but is most comfortable in its role as a bar. A great location for a drink any time of day, the people who come here tend to be young and about as alternative as it gets in Vilnius. Service is consistently dreadful, but once youve resigned yourself to the fact that theres nothing you can do about it, its definitely one of the top summer spots in the city. The courtyard also plays host to a regular supply of music acts and DJs as well as the occasional work of art. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:30, Sat 12:00 - 03:30, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JEBXSW
Amatinink Ueiga C-4, Didioji 19/2, tel. (+370) 687
Artistai C-4, v. Kazimiero 3, tel. (+370) 5 212 12 68, www.artistai.lt. Hidden in a picturesque little side street inside a rather lovely courtyard, this very Vilnius-type place was once known as Amerika, and has since changed practically nothing except its name. Treading the fine line between bar, restaurant and nightclub, Artistai attracts a mixed crowd of mostly friendly locals, serves cheap food and beer and has regular live music events to supplement the otherwise orthodox disco nights. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu 11:00 - 04:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JAEBSW Bix C-4, Etmon 6, tel. (+370) 5 262 77 91, www.bix.lt.
Started by the legendary rock band from iauliai of the same name, the scruffy bar on two floors that is Bix is fairly tame
Vienuolyno Kiemas B-4, Trak 9/1. Currently the

top venue among the citys outdoor drinking spaces, this place is embarrassingly difficult to find for some people who claim to call Vilnius home. Find friendly staff, affordable drinks, a family atmosphere, plenty of wooden platforms for tripping over and the best pick of the DJs currently playing to outdoor crowds in the capital. The marvellous setting is somewhat ruined by a proliferation of massive umbrellas (heres a tip for you Vienuolyno Kiemas, why dont you take them down when its not raining eh?), although after the sixth beer youll hardly notice. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. JEB
April - July 2013
54
nightlife
mid-way between sports bar and a pool venue, this place just makes it into this section on account of the 12 plasma screens that show regular local and international sporting events. Theres a decent bar too, and even the option to eat. As for its pool venue credentials, find six excellent pool tables and a further table for snooker. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00. PJNSW fortas.eu. Despite its slightly crappy beer collection, Fortas can do no wrong. Perched up on top of the hill above Old Town, this always busy spot plays host to everyone from shady-looking Russian-speakers without any hair to immaculately turned out Japanese tourists. Perfect for an outdoor summertime drink despite the appalling view and equally rewarding indoors, it would be unfair to not mention the food, which is consistently marvellous. Top banana. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PABW The friendly bar staff certainly make a change from many others in the area, and the cold beers on offer are both well chosen and priced (Gringo currently serves one of the best pints of Guinness in the region). Also find the added incentives of free wireless internet and table football. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Wed 11:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. JABW barely dry when we popped in to this brand new whiskey bar in the part of town currently undergoing something of a cultural explosion, although what we saw we liked. Small and sleek, its about time Vilnius had a whiskey bar again, especially one that only sells bourbon and American whiskey. Theres other tipples too, plus DJs on a Friday and Saturday night. Could be one of the successes of the summer. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Thu 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. JA
Entry C-4, Didioji 28, tel. (+370) 624 943 17. Hovering
range of superb Lithuanian beers on offer from small microbreweries around the country, this pleasant watering hole also features two dining halls, one with an open kitchen and a small beer garden out the back. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PJABSW
Marsas B-3, Trak 15, tel. (+370) 687 223 75. Slowly
Fortas H-4, Algirdo 17, tel. (+370) 652 011 38, www.
improving and gradually making a name for itself among the hip drinkers in town, Marsas (Mars) features a betterthan-average collection of beers from around the world, a recommended plate of fish and chips if youre hungry and the now almost compulsory DJ. Often tame during the earlier part of the evening, things can liven up as time drags on and its possible to have a very good night out indeed here. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. JAW
Gringo A-2, Vilniaus 31/1, tel. (+370) 654 905 41.
678 833 63. This friendly old place has been around in one way or another for years and currently provides liquid sustenance to a crowd of mostly young fun-seekers who come for the affordable Old Town beer prices and the live sport on the television. Far from being one to add to an evenings itinerary, it does at least serve as a decent refuge for planning the rest of the evening over a beer when you cant get through the doors in Cozy across the street. QOpen Mon, Tue 12:00 - 24:00, Wed 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. PAW 969 25. Consistently busy during the weekend when propping up the bar is generally the only option left for people arriving after 21:00, the mixed and predominantly chirpy crowd at Piano Man provides a buzz lacking in many of its competitors. The bar stocks a good range of drinks including draught Guinness and Hoegaarden, theres table football in the corner and from time to time theres also the added bonus of live music. An excellent choice indeed for anyone looking for a place to add to their pub crawl or for staying the course and spending the entire evening here. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Mon, Sun 17:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. PJAB
Maasis Pubas B/C-3, Dominikon 9, tel. (+370)
Jackie A-2, Vilniaus 31, www.jackie.lt. The paint was
Piano Man A-2, Islandijos 1/31, tel. (+370) 650
Kas Kas A-2, Islandijos 4, tel. (+370) 630 171 21.
NEW
Another addition to a street already overflowing with bertrendy places to hang out, Kas Kas models itself at least in part on the excellent Studio 9 although it doesnt quite hit the mark. The place has been decorated quite well and the staff are quite friendly. The drinks on offer are also quite good. On the absolutely positive side, if you do choose to visit and were quite impressed like we were, theres plenty of other options hereabouts. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JABW
New
hit and miss affair, usefully located between Old Town and the citys main central street, La Birras worth a mention not least because it shows international soccer games and has a good selection of local and international beers. Not surprisingly, it can get a little rowdy in here, especially when theres basketball on the screens, but its definitely worth popping buy if youre out on the prowl. Check their Facebook page for sports fixtures. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAW
La Birra A-2, Vilniaus 29, tel. (+370) 604 455 08. A
Plieno Pauktis H-4, K. Kalinausko 11b, tel. (+370) 5 231 21 81. Blink and youd miss it, the Steel Bird is one of those rare finds that leads to something akin to a love affair once discovered. Discreet during the winter, this is the perfect place for a fireside tryst, whilst the warmer parts of the year trumpet the opening of a magnificent secluded garden. Full of staff from the American embassy during the week, the place is given back to the locals at the weekend and is well worth the treck up the hill. Recommended is their cheese-covered kepta duona, a real treat with a couple of ice-cold beers. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. AB Pogo A-2, Vilniaus 12, tel. (+370) 604 195 67, www. pogo.lt. You can say what you like about rock fans but you cant deny the fact that the ones who opened Pogo should be hugged and generally smothered in affection. Risking their necks transforming an empty Chinese restaurant into a bar with a live music venue at a time when the economy was falling to pieces, our heroes have been rewarded with a loyal clientele of lads and lasses in leather and a damn fine place to drink if this is your sort of thing. The beer is stupidly cheap and the kepta duona is what drinking was invented for. Totally recommended. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Fri 17:00 - 06:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PJAEW vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Leiiai C-4, Stikli 4, tel. (+370) 5 260 90 87. The next logical step in the evolution of the specialist Lithuanian beer bar, Leiiai also doubles as a restaurant serving classic traditional local food. As well as a space for drinking the Vilnius In Your Pocket
nightlife
auni Vietel B-4, Prancikon 3, tel. (+370) 656 149 75. Slightly off the beaten track in a quiet Old Town backstreet, auni Vietel is located inside an old Franciscan monastery although you probably wont care that much after the fifth beer. At one time a small and rather awful restaurant, somebody saw the potential by extending the place and filling it with a range of superb beers and a young and educated crowd of serious drinkers. Definitely one for the pub crawl list, this is an excellent place to wind up late and finish the evening off with way too much beer and making some new friends. Recommended. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Wed, Thu 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PJAEBW
Lietuva, 22nd floor), tel. (+370) 5 231 48 23, www. sky-bar.lt. Churning out scores of excellent cocktails and still providing not one but two extraordinary views from the 22nd floor, a trip to Vilnius without a trip to SkyBar isnt really a trip at all. Rewarding at any time of the evening, the best times to drop by are as the sun is setting or late at the weekend when the place takes on a distinctively clubby feel. The aforementioned views, which get snapped up quickly by visitors who head to the tables by the windows immediately on entering, include not only the best panorama of Old Town there is but, less popular but an extraordinary contrast all the same, a view to the vast concrete sleeping districts that house the majority of the citys residents. Highly recommended. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:30. PAULXW good alcohol and the chance of something decent to eat courtesy of friendly staff for years. Somewhat resembling a slightly stuffy gentlemens club, the complete absence of excitement here makes it the ideal spot for a relaxed business drink or any other kind of discreet encounter for that matter. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 24:00. PTJAEBSW
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SkyBar A-00, Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel
Trip A-1, Gedimino 31, tel. (+370) 612 323 22. Marketing itself as the place for total relaxation and inner positivity, Trip has leapt into the shoes of the recently departed Satta to become the only address in town for locals who smoke large cigarettes and own either a dog or an old bicycle. Seemingly decorated by school children in a range of badly applied primary colours, this is the current place in town for anyone looking for alternative nightlife. The bars pretty well stocked and events range from the inevitable DJ sets to independent film screenings. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 09:00. PJEW
LGBT Friendly
Attitudes towards all manner of minority groups in Lithuania are slowly changin g for th e b e t t e r, w i t h a hand ful o f brave individuals spearheading their respective campaigns armed with a combination of courage and a firm understanding of Lithuanian law. One such person is the openly gay 22year-old film director Romas Zabarauskas, who recently returned to Vilnius after a period of mind-altering study in New York. Already gaining support for his day job from the likes of Gus Van Sant and John Cameron Mitchell, Zabarauskas recently turned his attention to the gaping chasm between attitudes towards the LGBT communities in New York and Vilnius in the form of a spontaneous decision to contact Vilnius bar and restaurant owners to see if they were willing to put small LGBT Friendly stickers (pictured) on the doors and windows of their premises. Despite the usual whinging and threats from certain conservative members of the local Municipality, reactions have been overwhelmingly positive, the result being that a growing number of venues in the Lithuanian capital now proudly proclaim their support for the LGTB community. This is good news for everyone, including LGBT visitors to Vilnius who no longer have to play a game of Russian roulette when visiting bars and restaurants that may or may not be owned and frequented by knuckle-heads. Vilnius In Your Pocket would like to congratulate Romas and the other people who worked on the project and looks forward to continuing to write about an increasingly friendly city. 67, www.sohoclub.lt. One main space for drinking and chatting and another for dance-orientated activities both sub-divided even further and decorated in the style of a vampires Council house. Punters have the chance to send SMS messages to a large screen for the purposes of making mobile phone companies rich. QOpen 22:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance free - 20Lt. PAW
MC Kavin C-4, Vokiei 2, tel. (+370) 640 330 48. Thankfully under new management and full of promise for the future, the in-house social hub at the citys Contemporary Arts Centre looks more or less like it always did although the word on the street is that other matters are much improved. Theres a changed menu of classic local and international dishes for the hungry, a workable if not exactly mindboggling array of beers and the perennial opportunity to watch serious gentlemen indulging in games of chess. If theyve managed to liquidate or, God forbid, train the bar staff this could be one of the places to be this summer. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PJAEBW punka D-3, Uupio 9, tel. (+370) 652 323 61, www.
New
spunka.lt. Why arent there more bars like this in Vilnius? Small, scruffy, friendly, affordable and packed with a stunning selection of outstanding local and foreign beer on tap and in bottles, there should be a punka on every street. Get absolutely sloshed, meet some eccentric locals and ask for one of their wooden boards of meat and cheese when you get peckish. Well worth a visit. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.JW
Stars & Legends D-00, Raitinink 4 (arnas Hotel),
tel. (+370) 663 738 78, www.starslegends.lt. This highly recommended sports bar for sports nuts comes with one HD screen for every five punters and is arguably the best place in town for major sporting events, which in Lithuania generally means basketball although they do show other stuff as well. The large outdoor terrace also includes a screen during the summer for big games. Give them a call for information on upcoming events and reserving a table. QOpen 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PJABW tique Hotel), tel. (+370) 5 266 58 85, www.shakespeare.lt. An unexpected gem hidden away upstairs to the left past reception, The Globe has been providing
Soho G-4, vitrigailos 7/16, tel. (+370) 699 395
The Globe D-2, Bernardin 8/8 (Shakespeare Bou-
April - July 2013
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Universiteto Pub B/C-3, Dominikon 9, tel. (+370) 678 833 63. A slightly streamlined Universiteto has shed its wine and sports appendages and is now functioning more or less as a bar with a backup plan of pub grub and the occasional student party. With a clutch of worthy drinking holes in the immediate area, this one-time expat favourite has had a hard time since it relaunched, but it seems to be doing ok with a more rowdy crowd of local youngsters who appreciate the affordable prices and endless procession of blondes. A great people-watching pub, although almost certainly not one for spending the entire evening in. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Tue, Wed 22:00 - 04:00, Thu 22:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Entrance free - 10Lt. PJAW Who Hit John C-4, Didioji 19, tel. (+370) 615 810
New
an interesting if somewhat inconvenient location in the bowels of the earth half way across a footbridge, Gluck is the latest incarnation on this spot to try its luck at packing in a crowd of young and student-orientated punters with a range of themed nights ranging from film screenings to live music. Featuring a fairly decent range of beers from some of the countrys smaller breweries, all the ingredients are in place for what should be a top spot to visit, but sadly much like its predecessors its not quite happening here. The place is loud and stuffy and the walk to get there more often than not just doesnt seem to be worth the bother. QOpen 20:00 - 08:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Entrance free 15Lt. PAW
Gluck A-0, Ups 6, tel. (+370) 686 607 74. Stuck in
NEW
37. This newly opened bar inside a prime piece of Old Town real estate must count among one of the three smallest bars in the capital. Assuming you can get somewhere to sit (i.e. if 10 people didnt get there before you), expect friendly service, a limited range of quality beer and the chance to literally rub shoulders with your fellow drinkers. If they decide to get outside seating this year they might just be able to accommodate an entire Rugby Union team. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00.PJABW
Clubs
Due to the universal law stating that its impossible to be in all places at all times, the club reviews in this guide are written to provide a general overview of whats to be expected if you visit them. As any serious clubber already knows, nights change with alarming regularity, good promoters come and go and expected crowds fail to turn up. The pitifully few brave clubs in Vilnius who dare to break away from the mainstream all have at least a well-maintained website if not a Facebook page or two to compliment, of which Vilnius In Your Pocket at least always provides the former to help give readers even more information. Finally, the good news about clubbing in Vilnius is that entrance prices are relatively low and the city is remarkably small. If you do happen to stumble on a non-event, relocating to another club is both quick and affordable. www.brodvejus.lt. Celebrated for the slightly creepy fact that this is arguably the top spot in town for visiting foreigners of a questionable age to leer at teenage girls, downstairs is primarily for dancing, spilling drinks and getting stuck in conversations with local simpletons, whilst the recently revamped upstairs bar is always worth a go, especially if you want to sit down. Still hugely popular, live acts include everything from DJs whod find it hard to get a gig at a wedding to the occasional decent band. QOpen , Mon 22:00 - 02:00, Tue 20:00 - 03:00, Wed, Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00, Sun 21:00 - 03:00. Entrance free on weekdays. On weekends from 5 - 35Lt. PJAEW
Neringa Caf-Bar A-1, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 231 39 79, www.cafe-bar.lt. A peculiar, retro-style cellar club functioning as a nice place for food during the day and something altogether different during the weekend. Thursday nights are currently celebrated with live jazz, whilst Friday and Saturday evenings attract a crowd of mostly middle-aged, manbag-wielding gentlemen and their peroxide-bleached wives splashing out on pickled herring and cheap champagne and reliving their youth on the little dance floor to the fabulous hits of yesteryear. Priceless. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. Entrance (Fri, Sat from 22:00) 10Lt. JAW Opium A-2, Islandijos 4, tel. (+370) 691 412 05. Recently renovated and now located above the slightly Asian restaurant Briusly (yes, Bruce Lee), Opium is run by internationally successful DJs whove created a Berlin superclub in miniature. Its a bit cramped and starkly minimal, but the Funktion One sound system is the best in the city and its worth a look even if you dont recognise any names on the line up. Intelligent face control ensures drunks, idiots and people who buy their clothes at markets remain outside. QOpen , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance 15 - 25Lt. J
www.pabolatino.lt. Featuring three halls and two bars of sheer class, Pabo Latino is an oasis of Latin culture in a country where human warmth is far from overwhelming. A tough but fair door policy keeps the low life out, meaning what you get inside is a well behaved bunch of good-looking people out for a fun evening in pleasant albeit sometimes frenetic surroundings. The music is both live and courtesy of DJs, the cocktail menu is massive and if you dont know how to dance Latin style, they even organise lessons for anyone willing to give it a go. QOpen Thu 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Entrance 15 - 30Lt. PJAEBX
Pabo Latino A-4, Trak 3/2, tel. (+370) 5 262 10 45,
Brodvjus B-4, Msini 4, tel. (+370) 652 577 90,
Salento DiscoPub C-4, Didioji 28, tel. (+370) 676 820

15, www.salentodiscopub.com. Nights of foam in which the ladies get all wet and lathery, cheap offers on cocktails, deckchairs, large television screens and a predominantly young crowd are the things to expect inside this heaving Old Town favourite. The brainchild of Italian Piero, the idea is to bring an Italian and Spanish pub-disco feel to the Lithuanian capital. Each night promises a different theme, with music focusing on pop and old favourites. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Entrance free - 25Lt. PJAEW
Cocainn B-2, Gedimino 2a, tel. (+370) 600 478 62.
Occupying three main rooms catering to different tastes, theres a lounge for cocktails and the dreaded Tuborg, a quiet room where guests can eat from a menu of gourmet dishes and a good old-fashioned night club with dancing girls dressed as nurses among other things. Theres also a place for smoking cigars. The perfect introduction to Eastern European nightlife. QOpen , Tue 22:00 - 04:00, Wed, Thu 22:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Entrance free - 10Lt. PJAW
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Cocktails
Its about time a cocktail bar came along that was more about the art of cocktails than the pretence of the cocktail bar sensation. Specialising in both classic and modern mixed drinks, its worth paying them a visit just to have a peep at the extraordinary interior, and if you do choose to stick around, expect to be bankrupt by the end of the evening thanks to the addictive allure of their magnificent mixology. Recommended. QOpen Wed, Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. JA
Alchemikas A-2, Islandijos 1, tel. (+370) 612 998 00.
884 29. There are cocktail bars and then there are cocktail bars. Lotus is neither, the best thing about the place being the location, which isnt very good at all. Frequented predominantly by people who are experimenting at being cool but who havent been told to dress accordingly, its all jolly good fun in here, but fun in the way a school disco used to be fun. Personally we prefer the supermarket round the corner. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PJAEW betide any Cuban or anybody whos been to Cuba who ventures through the door of Mojitos, because as was to be expected this place is about as Cuban as the Helms-Burton Act. Billing itself as a Cuban cocktail bar, although theres nothing wrong with their cocktails theyre not exactly the sort of thing that would set Havana alight, whilst the food is best left undiscussed (and in the kitchen). The good news is that on the saucy scale it doesnt do a bad job at all, with plenty of sexy young things in their underwear jiggling about until the early hours. A good night out for a bit of fun, if youre looking for something more authentic youd better start saving for a flight across the Atlantic. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 18:00 06:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. PJAB
Lotus A-1, Gedimino 28/Stulginskio 2, tel. (+370) 696
Mojitos B-2, Totori 11, tel. (+370) 601 125 55. Woe
Berlin A-2, Islandijos 1/31, tel. (+370) 609 616 16. If it
really was in Berlin it wouldnt be open for long, this rather halfarsed attempt at sophistication seems to think expensive clothes are more important than culture. Excellent for ogling dolly birds and little else, Berlin is at least in the part of the city thats currently opening new and decent venues at the drop of a hat. Theres plenty more to choose from less than a minute away if you dont like it. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJ
Live music
(+370) 5 262 10 45, www.comedyclub.lt. A brave new venture in the heart of Old Town offering the best in Lithuanian stand-up comedy plus the occasional performer from abroad. Note that Comedy Club Vilnius also branches out into other forms of entertainment including live music. Keep an eye on their Facebook page for information on upcoming events. QOpen , Fri, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. 30 - 60Lt. PJAK 44 98, www.tamstaclub.lt. A brave attempt by the people who run the excellent music shop downstairs to bring live bands of many persuasions to a half-starved audience. Music ranges from jazz to art-rock to old fashioned rock and roll, theres a long bar to keep everyone fed and watered, plus once a month they organise a so-called Open Mic Day where outsiders can come and improvise along with other like-minded musicians. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Entrance free or 5 - 30Lt. JAEW
Moscow G-3, Lukiki 5, tel. (+370) 672 976 62. Another
Comedy Club Vilnius C- 4, Vokiei 2, tel.
New
one of those places that changes names and managers every time you turn away, the latest incarnation to attempt to put down roots in this space is Moscow, which calls itself a cocktail bar but that in being Russian in more than name only is more of a club with hedonistic clients, gentlemen who spend large amounts of time in the gym and young ladies dripping from their arms. If you want a bit of class youve come to the wrong place. On the other hand you might just love it. QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
Tamsta D-5, A. Strazdelio 1, tel. (+370) 5 212
www.paparazzi.lt. Still going strong after all these years, Paparazzi has made a few minor changes since it first opened its doors such as moving a few metres to the right and introducing an extremely popular weekly pub quiz, but the place more or less remains the same as it ever was. Frequented by a mostly young, 20-something crowd out for a good time in a friendly environment, the cocktails remain the reason why so many still visit although theres plenty of other good things behind the bar to keep everybody happy. If youre thinking of dropping by late at night after too many drinks somewhere else, or if you didnt bother to get changed after hiking in the countryside all day, dont be surprised to be turned away. The door policy may be tough but it does ensure a good night out for all. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PJAW
Paparazzi B-2, Totori 1/10, tel. (+370) 5 212 01 35,
In Vino C-5, Auros Vart 7, tel. (+370) 5 212 12 10, www. invino.lt. Catching on to the current craze for wine bars in the city early on, theyve obviously got a real appreciation for wine of which they stock a fair amount. Perhaps best enjoyed on a Friday or Saturday night, this is one of the best places in town to mingle with the cream of the citys C-list celebrities. One bone of contention though, namely a serious lack of toilet facilities. QOpen 16:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. PJAUBSW La Bohme B-3, v. Ignoto 4/3, tel. (+370) 5 212 10 87. Good for either food or drink, the grandiose medieval interior is perfect for group celebrations and the wine list is both thoughtful and extensive. All in all a most suitable venue for everyone, from passing lads on the pull to a coach-load of grandmothers. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JABSW Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
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Mimoza/Vinchenso A-2, Islandijos 1/33, tel. (+370) 652 935 87. A little bit of everything here inside one of the latest sensations to appear on the scene. Crowded much of the time, its both a classy wine bar complete with shop as well as an Asian restaurant serving the usual collection of dishes including butterfish sashimi, tofu soup, a range of tasting dishes and a couple of vegetarian options. Get here early if you want a seat and rub shoulders with some of the capitals prettier specimens. On top of everything else, theyre attempting to woo even more customers by booking some decent DJs. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PJABSW Notre Vie B/C-3, Stikli 10, tel. (+370) 614 245 21. Yet another wine bar, this one is small and intimate with friendly staff and a good selection of booze and snacks. Although nothing to get too excited about, it is at least the real thing unlike so many of the others in Vilnius. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. PJABSW Saint Germain C/D-3, Literat 9/32, tel. (+370) 5 262 12 10, www.vynine.lt. Decorated inside to imitate French shambles chic and further reinforced with plenty of good outdoor seating during the summer, Saint Germain may be a French restaurant in the minds of some, but really its more of a wine bar. Often full of good-looking middleaged locals and a smattering of tourists, the atmosphere is certainly one of the best in town, and the wine list equally admirable. If you do also choose to eat here, the food, which features not just French dishes, is affordable and generally fairly good although be warned the kitchen closes at least 90 minutes before they close. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. JABSW
Cabaret
87, www.newyorkclub.lt. Opened in 2004 in the style of an old-fashioned musical theatre, New Yorks finally found its feet as more of a live music club than anything else. Set among authentic theatrical dcor, evenings here include everything from the occasional cabaret act to all sorts of music shows to the theatres long-running play, Urvinis mogus (Defending the Caveman). See their website for more information. Q Opening hours depend on repertoire. Entrance 20 - 70Lt. PAE
New York H-2, Kalvarij 85, tel. (+370) 699 155
03, www.savaskampas.lt. Well this is a surprise. Certain that Savas Kampas was on the way out in the last issue, were now forced to eat a slice of humble pie. Constantly busy and with friendly staff to boot, we didnt try the wine the last time we were here but the beer went down well and the atmosphere was excellent. Savas Kampas is without doubt a survivor. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. JABW
Savas Kampas C-4, Vokiei 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 32
Coming soon...
35. Freshly opened at the time of going to press, Sarkozy promises a blend of bar and shop specialising in apple products including Normandy cider and calvados among more pedestrian, non-alcoholic treats, such as apple juice, apple cheese and apple teas. In true local style, it appears they still havent got a license to sell alcohol on the premises yet, although their range of booze to take away is still worth making the visit for. Clearly the apple of someones eye, we hope they hurry up and get the paperwork they need to get the punters in and staying.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PJAW
Tappo Doro B-2, L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus 7, tel. (+370) 686 168 66. Hidden away between the Cathedral and the Presidents Palace, this little gem adds yet another string to the maestros bow also known as contemporary Vilnius. Hitching a ride on the coat tails of the citys continuing obsession with wine bars and gourmet food, Tappo Doro is part wine bar and part delicatessen. As well as a chilled cabinet full of speciality meats, cheese and olives, find a tastefully decorated drinking area complete with a long list of Italian wines. Proving to be such a hit of late, the owners now also operate a second bar in the heart of Old Town.Also at Vokiei 8. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. JAS
Sarkozy A-2, Vilniaus g. 22, tel. (+370) 682 533
Microbreweries
For the record, our definition of a microbrewery includes bars selling beer from microbreweries scattered around the country. Enjoy.
Bambalyn C-4, Stikli 7, tel. (+370) 5 240 56 70,
http://www.bambalyne.lt. Featuring a rapidly approaching total of close to 100 types of beer from microbreweries across the country and a spooky brick cellar ambience, Bambalyn counts among a number of specialist bars in the city catering to the tastes of those who like their ale local rather than multinational. The beers in question range from light to dark and should keep all but the fussiest from
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hours of drunken appreciation. A little bit classier than its counterparts, the bar is fashionable among the capitals more urbane guzzlers, plus theres a shop inside and a beertasting lounge for true aficionados. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PJAW
Bsi Treias B-2, Totori 18, tel. (+370) 5 231 26 98,
www.busitrecias.lt. Meaning something along the lines of Youll be the third, which in this part of the world spells bad luck, Bsi Treias functions as one of the capitals only microbreweries as well as a better than average place to dine on gut-busting local dishes. Downstairs is a genuinely good bar, whilst the large upper level has the feel of a demented German beer hall complete with sozzled groups of locals singing patriotic songs and falling off the wooden benches. The in-house beer is good stuff, although we recommend you steer clear of the flavoured versions. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. PJABW
nekutis B-5, v. Stepono 8, tel. (+370) 650 470 58. Not a microbrewery as such, nekutis sneaks into this section on account of hoarding traditional, microbrewery-brewed beers from all corners of the country. Some of this is live, meaning it only lasts a few days, not unlike the hangover that goes with the superb 12% Staias from Panevys. A couple of large ones of these and you might find yourself rolling down the mysterious staircase by the toilet. Should this happen, dont be surprised to find yourself fished out by the barman, a personable gentleman with a theatrical moustache. Highly recommended, and extremely popular, meaning its not uncommon to find yourself sharing a bench with a strange Lithuanian man eating unidentified animal parts from a bowl. Rare for Lithuania, nekutis doesnt have table service. Order at the bar. Also at Polocko 7a. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. PJAS
Adult entertainment
Vilnius In Your Pocket doesnt mention what ones expected to pay for alcohol and other services in the places listed in the Adult entertainment section of this guide. Although by no means expensive relatively speaking, strip clubs here arent exactly cheap. The memorable story of a visiting businessman from a country that shall remain nameless suffering an attack of serial private dancing and then not being able to pay his bill is one of many similar tales, and is worth remembering, especially if, as in the case of this gentleman, its someone from your embassy that has to get up in the middle of the night and sort it out. So, please, before you indulge too much, make sure you know exactly what youre getting yourselves into.
Bowling & Billiards

Boulingo Klubas G-3, J. Jasinskio 16, tel. (+370)
5 249 66 00, www.boulingoklubas.lt. Complete with Lithuanian dishes and beer, the six lanes squeezed next to each other allow for much drunken bowling. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. PAW
656 205 80. A pleasant enough space featuring a bar and several pool tables in excellent condition. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PJA
Free Ball H-3, Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP), tel. (+370)
Dolls A-00, Konstitucijos 18, tel. (+370) 5 272 84 82, www.oldtown.lt. Dollicious! This is an absolutely fantastic place to indulge in the truly titillating. Outstanding dancers, some of the best in town, are willing to wiggle and jiggle their vilnius.inyourpocket.com
nightlife
scantily clad flesh before you, above you and possibly even beneath you for a price. Catch a free limousine ride to the club from Old Town to visit the Barbie of your dreams. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Entrance 80Lt. PA
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Old Town Strip Club C-4, Rdnink 14, tel. (+370) 5
212 13 49, www.oldtown.lt. Expect a thumping, throbbing, erotically charged escapade. These ladies dont mess around when its show time. Well actually they mess around with a lot of toys. The hardcore Eros on display here is unparalleled in this city, but the very best part might just be the deliciously innocent waitresses who somehow manage to keep all their clothes on. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. Entrance 80Lt. PJA
Paradise A-2, Vilniaus 29, tel. (+370) 630 111 12, www.paradiseclub.lt. This perfect combination of gentlemens leisure and entertainment provides a range of services and facilities from saucy dancing to whirlpools. What more could a man with a credit card need? They dont call it Paradise for nothing. QOpen 20:00 - 07:00. Entrance 100Lt. PJAW
Casinos
According to Lithuanian law, all visitors to casinos need to take an internationally recognised form of picture ID (preferably a passport) with them and register before being allowed inside.
Nes Casino A-2, Pamnkalnio7/8 (Pramog Bankas), tel. (+370) 700 555 55, www.nese.lt. Q Open 24hrs. PJW
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what to see
The Lithuanian capitals first period of growth took place immediately south of todays Cathedral Square, eventually becoming the toothsome jumble of Baroque, Gothic, Neoclassical and Renaissance architecture now known as Old Town. Although most people flock to the city to visit this undeniable gem, there are plenty of other things to see when in town, from the very Lithuanian eccentricities encountered over the imaginary border in the self-styled Republic of Uupis to the pitifully few remaining relics of a once thriving Jewish community to the occasional Soviet-era masterpiece. Fill the buildings with a reasonably interesting collection of museums and galleries, put some decent parks in the spaces in-between and youll find it hard to not find a reason to visit. tant part of the citys cultural heritage that it remained open throughout the Soviet occupation. Watch closely as people walking underneath say a silent prayer. The chapel is open to the public and is accessed via a small door on the left as youre walking up the hill. Q Mass 07:30 (Latin), 09:00, 10:00 (Polish), 17:30 (Polish), 18:30, Sun 09:00 (Polish), 09:30, 11:00, 13:00 (Polish), 17:30 (Polish), 18:30. J
Essential Vilnius
261 11 27. The most important Catholic building in Lithuania, Vilnius Cathedral as its more usually known was first built in 1251 by a newly converted Grand Duke Mindaugas on the site of a supposed pagan temple. Returned to pagan use after Mindaugas death in 1263, the church was given back to the Catholic Church on the countrys official conversion to Christianity in 1387, although the building that now stands in its place has little to do with the original structure. The current building dates to around 1419, with countless modifications and additions made after that. Its present Neo-Classical form is largely down to the work of the Lithuanias first true architect, Laurynas Stuoka Guceviius (Pol. Wawrzyniec Gucewicz, 1753-1798), who was also responsible for a number of other notable buildings in the city including the Town Hall. The rather plain nave betrays eleven chapels, among them the must-see High Baroque Chapel of St. Casimir (1458-1484), Lithuanias patron saint. Built in 1636 to house his remains, the chapel is one of the countrys national treasures. The three statues of Sts. Stanislaus, Helena and Casimir on the roof, supposedly representing Poland, Russia and Lithuania, are 1997 copies of the 18th-century originals which were taken down and lost by the Soviets in 1950, the year the building was confiscated from the Catholics. Spending several years as an art gallery and even mooted as a car repair workshop at one time, the Cathedral was returned to the Catholic Church on October 22, 1988 during the eventful Sjdis Congress and was re-consecrated on February 5, 1989. The 57-metre free-standing bell tower, a popular contemporary meeting place, was originally part of one of the gates in the citys defensive wall and has been added to several times over the centuries which gives it its peculiar shape. It received six new bells in 2002, baptised by Cardinal Audrys Bakis, the current Archbishop of Vilnius, in a special ceremony. Q Mass 08:00, 17:30, 18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:15, 12:30, 17:30, 18:30 (Latin). J
Cathedral-Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus (Vilniaus v. Stanislovo ir v. Vladislovo Arkikatedra Bazilika) C-2, Katedros 1, tel. (+370) 5
Dating from the 13th century the castle was rebuilt in 1419 by Grand Duke Vytautas following the great fire of Vilnius. In 1610 it was used as a prison for the ruling classes, and during the 1655-1661 Russian occupation the towers and defensive walls were almost completely destroyed, with serious albeit only partial restoration work beginning (presumably by the Poles) as late as 1930. Inside the tower itself find models of the castle as it was in the 14th and 18th centuries plus other miscellaneous bits and pieces concerned with the buildings history and knights in dented armour. The view on a good day is recommended. The walk to the top is a bit of a struggle for many, although there are benches thoughtfully provided along the way. Alternatively, use the funicular-type train (tickets 3/2Lt) which runs up and down the hills northern slope. Find it hidden in a courtyard immediately west of the Applied Art Museum on Arsenalo. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00 (until April 30). Open 10:00 - 19:00 (from May 1). Admission 5/2Lt. J
Gediminas Castle & Museum (Gedimino Pilis ir Muziejus) C-1, Castle Hill, tel. (+370) 5 261 74 53.
genocid.lt/muziejus. The sign outside reads that between 1940 and 1991 this building housed the representative institutions of the NKVD and KGB, and, accordingly, the exhibits inside relate almost exclusively to the period of oppression and the so-called genocide of the Lithuanian people by the Communist regime. Understandably a must-see part of any trip to Vilnius for people wishing to understand this often bleak and violent period in the countrys history, what the sign fails to point out is that between 1941 and 1944 the building was controlled by the Gestapo, whose role in the systematic murder of the vast majority of the citys Jewish population with the willing participation of many ethnic Lithuanians is, somewhat bizarrely, almost completely overlooked, although the recent addition of a room dedicated to just this issue is a welcome addition. Controversy aside, as a testament to the suffering endured by the ethnic Lithuanians, especially under the lunacy of Stalin, the place is a must-see for any visitor to Vilnius. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6/3Lt. J
Genocide Victims Museum (Genocido Auk Muziejus) G-4, Auk 2a, tel. (+370) 5 249 62 64, www.
St. Annes Church (v. Onos Banyia) D-3,
Dawn Gate (Auros Vartai) C-5, Auros Vart 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 35 13. Completed in 1522, the Dawn Gate (or Sharp Gate (Ostra Brama) as its known to the Poles) is the only remaining gate from the citys original defensive walls. As was common at the time, an image of the Virgin Mary was placed above all gates to protect the city, and the story of the Dawn Gate starts from this simple historic fact. The current image, known as The Blessed Virgin Mary Mother of Mercy, was painted on eight pieces of oak in around 1630 by an unknown artist, was embellished with gold and silver about 40 years after that, was housed inside a purpose-built chapel above the gate in 1706 and is believed to have magic healing powers. Interestingly, the Dawn Gate is revered by both the Catholic and Orthodox faiths and is such an imporVilnius In Your Pocket
Maironio 8. Unquestionably one of the citys most famous landmarks and quite rightly so, the history of St. Annes starts with the alleged construction in the 14th century of a wooden house of worship on this spot in honour of Ona, the wife of Vytautas the Great. The first historical records of a church here date from 1394, although the current Gothic masterpiece is believed to have been built between 1495 and 1500 to a design by the Bohemian architect Benedikt Rejt (1453-1534), most famous for designing parts of Prague Castle. Unlike other historical churches in Vilnius, St. Annes has managed to escape the ravages of time almost unscathed and is arguably the least changed of them all. Composed of 33 different styles of brick assembled into a delicate and intricate whole, the effect is simply quite stunning. Its been said the faade incorporates the Pillars of Gediminas, one of the countrys earliest symbols, although this is hardly clear from looking at it. The interior is surprisingly free of ostentation, although this is hardly needed due to the spectacular design of the
what to see what to see

structure. The free-standing bell tower has nothing to do with the original design, being built only in 1873. A visiting Emperor Napoleon in 1812 famously if somewhat apocryphally noted hed like to take the building back to Paris in the palm of his hand. Q Mass 18:00, Sun 09:00, 11:00. J
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Vilnius City Card

Available from a n y To u r i s t Information C e n t re i n t h e city and onl i n e vi a w w w. vilnius-tourism. lt, there are two different types of card valid for either 24 hours (58Lt) or 72 hours (86Lt), both of which come with public transport, with a further 24hour version without public transport for just 45Lt. The Vilnius City Card entitles holders to all sorts of deals including free museum entry and guided tours as well as discounts on a range of things including concerts, meals in restaurants and hotel bookings. Check the aforementioned website for more detailed information. several large, glass-fronted displays showcasing the history of radio and television in Lithuania from its inception through to the modern day. Among the old radio sets, costumes and photographs of stars you wont recognise is a fabulous selection of things dedicated to the tragic events of January 13, 1991, including the telephone used by Lithuanian television bosses to communicate with the KGB and a video camera complete with a smashed lens, courtesy of an unknown Russian soldier who shot it with his rifle. Q Open by appointment only. Admission free.
Museums & Galleries
iejus) D-1, Arsenalo 3a, tel. (+370) 5 262 80 80, www. ldm.lt. Housed inside what was the far northeast corner of the citys original defensive walls, of which some including an original gate can still be seen inside, this worthy inclusion into the citys national treasures is stuffed full of good things to see, among them little models of how the city once looked, furniture, paintings and much more besides. Among the permanent exhibits find three unmissable collections of sacred Lithuanian art including examples from both the Catholic and Orthodox Churches dating back as far as the 15th century. Temporary exhibitions also take place throughout the year. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt. J
C-1, Arsenalo 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 24 52. Rather awkward to find hidden away inside a courtyard opposite the funicular station, this often overlooked collection of clothing, documents and other articles tracing the history and culture of Lithuania from the 13th century to the present is equally interesting for being housed inside a splendid historical building that once made up part of the citys defensive wall. Blind you with its ingenuity it wont, but for a pleasant 30 minutes that takes in one or two especially lovely exhibits, locating the hole in the wall to find the entrance is definitely worth the bother. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5/2Lt. J
Applied Arts Museum (Taikomosios Dails Muz-
Archaeology Museum (Archeologijos Muziejus)
Church Heritage Museum (Banytinio Paveldo Muziejus) D-3, v. Mykolo 9, tel. (+370) 5 269 78
03, www.bpmuziejus.lt. Founded in October 2005 by the Archbishop of Vilnius, Audrys Juozas Bakis, and moved to the splendour of the former 17th-century St. Michaels Church in 2009, this recommended museum, which in reality celebrates just the Lithuanian Catholic Church, features two floors of paintings, liturgical articles, literature and some fine wooden carvings from the collections of some of the finest churches in the country. In English, and with an optional audio guide, theres no thread to the things on display, although almost with exception each piece is fascinating in its own way. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10/5Lt. J
(+370) 5 269 37 41, www.litrail.lt. Recently moving to much larger premises inside the train station itself, the Lithuanian Railway Museum may not be to everybodys taste, but is still worth a visit if youre in the area, or for that matter if youve got a while to wait for your train. Made up of three main exhibition halls the museum charts the history of the railways in Lithuania, looks at some of the technical aspects of trains and the tracks they run on, is bursting with old railway-related paraphernalia and also has a couple of models that children can play with. Find it to the right of the main entrance to the station. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 4/2Lt. J
Lithuanian Railway Museum (Lietuvos Geleinkeli Muziejus) B-6, Geleinkelio 16 (Train Station), tel.
Lithuanian Energy & Technology Museum (Lietuvos Energetikos ir Technikos Muziejus) C-0, Rinktins
2, tel. (+370) 5 278 20 85, www.emuziejus.lt. Housed inside Vilnius first power station, built in 1903, this tremendous museum is packed full of displays including a room full of old cars and motorbikes, a fascinating collection of machines and photographs dedicated to the post-war Soviet industrialisation of the country and the history of Lithuanian manufacturing in general plus, on the top floor, two rooms for children complete with touch-screen displays and interactive games aimed at explaining the basics of science, which is in English as well as Lithuanian. Everything has been built around the old power plant turbines and steam boilers, giving the place a really special atmosphere. Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10/5Lt. J
Lithuanian Radio & Television Museum (Lietuvos Radijo ir Televizijos Muziejus) F-5, Konarskio 49 (inside the LRT building), tel. (+370) 5 236 32 14/(+370) 5 236 32 09, www.lrtc.lt. A little gem of a corridor lined with
Vilniaus 41, tel. (+370) 5 262 24 06, www.ltmkm.lt. Originating in 1926 as a theatre museum and slowly collecting departments and exhibits over the decades until it became what it is today, this mildly interesting cultural diversion inside a glorious 18th-century former palace and theatre charts the Lithuanian history of the three arts. Among several badly ventilated rooms full of harmoniums, 19th-century theatre posters and recordings of famous Lithuanian opera singers are one or two gems including several displays given over to the life of the actress Un Babickait (aka. Une Baye or Bye, 1897-1961), who received a modicum of cinematic success in the United States in the 1920s. The museum also features several temporary exhibitions of painting and photography. If you can prevent the old ladies who guard the place from pestering you every couple of minutes you might just find you enjoy this place. Entrance is around the back of the building. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 5/3Lt. J
Lithuanian Theatre, Music & Cinema Museum (Lietuvos Teatro, Muzikos ir Kino Muziejus) B-3,
April - July 2013
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what to see
lapeli Muziejus) C-3, Pilies 40, tel. (+370) 5 261 07 71. The doctor, linguist, translator and Lithuanian political figure Jurgis lapelis (1876-1941) and his opera-singing, bookshopowning wife Marija (1880-1977) were both prominent figures in the Lithuanian national revival movement during the late-19th and early-20th century. Particularly involved in the preservation and standardisation of the Lithuanian language, the couples life and that of life in the region from the second half of the 19th century until 1940 have been commemorated with this strange little museum located inside an eerily preserved house they bought together in 1926. Among the many items on display, including some fine photographs of Jurgis sporting a rather splendid moustache, are a few classics for those interested in philology. Of particular interest are the 19th-century books illustrating the development of the Lithuanian alphabet, from the use of Polish letter combinations through some now obsolete diacritics to the letters used today. In Lithuanian only, somebody should be available to help translate, although telephoning in advance is recommended. Bizarre and strangely compelling. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. J Money Museum (Pinig Muziejus) B-2, Totori 2/8, tel. (+370) 5 268 03 34/(+370) 5 268 00 77. Featuring five small rooms on two floors celebrating the history of world and Lithuanian money, despite the inclusion of lots of fancy interactive bits and bobs and plenty of information in English, this relatively new museums best attribute is the fact that its free to enter. If moneys your hobby then theres no doubt its worth a visit. If it isnt, then it probably isnt. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. J
G-3, Konstitucijos 22, tel. (+370) 5 219 59 60, www.ndg. lt. Found inside a renovated and enlarged building that once housed the Museum of the Revolution of the Lithuanian Soviet Socialist Republic, this bold endeavour showcases the work of a multitude of artists of Lithuanian origin from the 20th and 21st century. Among the commendable cast of contributors, examples on permanent display include work from a diverse range of artists including the Jewish sculptor Jacques Lipchitz (1891-1973) and the countrys most outstanding documentary photographer Antanas Sutkus (b. 1939). The museum is organised to highlight particular styles, eras and political attitudes to art in Lithuania under the numerous regimes of the past century and also stages temporary exhibitions that are well worth visiting. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 13:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt. J C-1, Arsenalo 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 94 26, www.lnm.lt. Lithuanias oldest museum, parts of the collection inside this intriguing history lesson date back to the 13th century. On permanent display are religious and secular items highlighting the cultural and ethnographic life of the nation, including recreations of traditional homesteads, clothing, paintings and much more. Also to be found are some of the things unearthed in the mass grave of Napoleonic soldiers nearby in 2001. The museum also puts on temporary shows, of which some are truly outstanding. A vital key for unlocking the secrets of the Lithuanian people. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5/2Lt. J
Marija & Jurgis lapelis Museum (Marijos ir Jurgio
the 19th-century Tuskuln Dvaras manor house. In 1994 the remains of the bodies were discovered and the area has since been turned into a memorial park. The park complex comprises the manor house, the former stable building next door that now houses an art gallery and the Secrets of Tuskulnai Manor exhibition, dedicated to both the history of the estate and the crimes that took place there during the Soviet occupation. The jewel in the crown however is the columbarium (kolumbariumas), an extraordinary underground burial chamber thats more of a mass mausoleum and where the remains of the deceased are now kept. Tours in English are available, and calling in advance to make sure everythings open is recommended. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Exposition open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6/3Lt. C-3, Didioji 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 58, www.ldm.lt. Housed inside the charming 17th-century Chodkeviiai (Chodkiewicz) family palace, this splendid little museum is of the type in which a menagerie of middle-aged ladies shuttle you around from room to room like a pinball. Ignore them if you can, and enjoy a great collection of local painting, drawing and sculpture plus a couple of rooms stuffed full of exemplary furniture, all of it representing the last several hundred years of achievement. They also put on temporary exhibitions here, of which some are well worth checking out. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt. J
Vilnius Picture Gallery (Vilniaus Paveiksl Galerija)
Toy Museum (aisl Muziejus) iltadario 2/7, tel.
National Art Gallery (Nacionalin Dails Galerija)
(+370) 604 004 49, info@zaislumuziejus.lt, www.zaislumuziejus.lt. Inspired by similar initiatives in Europe and around the world, this recently opened interactive museum is a private venture aimed at children of all ages from four to 90. Tracing the history of toys and games from around the 12th century onwards, the museum features exhibits including a whirligig dating from the 14th century that was found during excavation work nearby, teddy bears galore and some simple wooden vehicles made in Lithuania during the Soviet period. Indeed, most of the original items on display date from the Soviet period and as such offer a fascinating insight into the former everyday lives of children behind the Iron Curtain. Many of the things on display are there to be touched, played with and generally mauled, making the place a really recommended place for visitors to the city with children in tow who are already fed up with churches and the like. Not the easiest place to find in the world, keep an eye out for the sign on the wall along with a lot of other signs. Entrance is through the door just to the right. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Lt. JA
National Museum (Lietuvos Nacionalinis Muziejus)
Churches
Bernardine Church & Monastery (Bernardin Banyia ir Vienuolynas) D-3, Maironio 10, tel. (+370)
1944 and 1947 over 700 Lithuanians, Poles and Jews were executed on this site by the forerunner to the KGB and buried in what was at the time State-owned property in the grounds of
Tuskulnai Peace Park Memorial Complex (Tuskuln Rimties Parko Memorialinis Kompleksas) I-3, irmn 1f, tel. (+370) 5 275 07 04. Between
616 011 59. Once forming part of the citys original defensive walls and constructed on the site of an earlier wooden church dating from the middle of the 15th century at the behest of an order of Bernadine monks, the current vast Gothic church with Baroque and Renaissance additions dates from the early part of the 16th century onwards. As the old photographs on display show, the church interior was truly breathtaking before the Soviet authorities took control of the building, handing it over to the Vilnius Art Institute who among other things allegedly incorporated parts of the interior into the works of art the academy was producing. Returned to the monks soon after independence, a mammoth restoration project continues to this day. Current highlights include 14 magnificent rococo altars and the oldest known crucifix in the country, dating from the 15th century. The neighbouring monastery is the oldest part of the ensemble. Once famed for its extensive library and
what to see
independent-minded monks, the monastery was closed soon after the failed Uprising of 1863 and turned into a barracks for tsarist troops before falling into the hands of the citys Art Academy at the end of WWI. The building now houses the Vilnius Art Academy. Q Mass Mon, Tue, Thu 07:30, Wed, Thu 07:30, 18:00, Fri 07:30, 18:00, Sat 09:00, 18:00, Sun 09:00 (English), 10:30, 13:00, 17:00. J
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Church of the Holy Spirit (ventosios Dvasios Banyia) B-3, Dominikon 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 95
95. Like many of the citys churches, the Dominican Church of the Holy Spirit was built on the site of a former wooden house of worship that met a fiery fate. The current buildings appearance started taking shape towards the end of the 14th century. In 1501 it was given to an order of Dominican monks who built a monastery nearby. Its present Baroque appearance dates to the mid-18th century when the church was rebuilt after serious fire damage. Inside is a wealth of Baroque and rococo splendour, well worth further investigation. Interestingly, the building, which functions as Vilnius Polish Catholic communitys main church, remained opened throughout the entire Soviet occupation. Gaining rare access to the churchs crypts promises a ghoulish adventure amidst some 2,000 corpses in varying states of repair. Dating from the 17th and 18th centuries, the bodies are supposedly victims of the plague. Q Mass only in Polish 15:00, 18:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 18:00. J
stantino ir Michailo Cerkv) G-4, J. Basanaviiaus 27, tel. (+370) 5 212 17 90. Built in 1913 at the very end of tsarist rule within the city as part of the 300th anniversary celebrations of the Romanov Dynasty, this rather absurdlooking Russian Orthodox church is famed hereabouts for its garish green domes. On closer inspection, the church, which supposedly incorporates elements of both the Rostov and Suzdal styles, is a beautiful design, as early postcards showing the original dome designs attest. The interior is relatively plain, and only really recommended for serious enthusiasts. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. J Church of the Apparition of the Holy Mother of God (Znamenskaya) G-3, Vytauto 21/1, tel. (+370) 5
Church of Sts. Michael & Constantine (v. Kon-
Recommended reading
Vilnius 1900 2013: A Guide to the City's Architecture Th e r e ' s a l w a y s a little trepidation around here when a substantial Lithuanian book published in English about a serious subject arrives in the bookshops, so it comes as something of a relief to report that Vilnius 1900 - 2013: A Guide to the City's Architecture is not far off being something of a masterpiece. At just over 300 pages, the meticulously researched book, which features contributions from 13 expert writers on the subject and that has received the rare honour of having been copy-edited to near perfection, covers a wide range of state, commercial and private buildings constructed in the Lithuanian capital over the last century and a bit complete with background information, black and white photography and a handy section of maps at the back with everything marked for those who not only want to read the book but who also want to get out and visit some of the places written about. Assuming the gross over-calculation of the length of the Green Bridge falls into the category of the exception that proved the rule rather than being the kind of common mistake that marks the book out as little more than an expensive way to start a barbecue, we can't recommend this book highly enough. If it does have a fault, then we'd like to have read more about the stories behind some of the buildings, such as the contributions made by German POWs to the rebuilding of the city after the Second World War, but that's just a personal opinion. In short, essential reading for any visitor who wants to get under the skin of one of the most extraordinary periods of building the city ever saw. Available from any good bookshop in the city (see p.78), this book comes very highly recommended indeed. Vilnius 1900 - 2013: A Guide to the City's Architecture. V Architektros Fondas, 2013. ISBN 978-60995484-0-1
275 13 75. Built in 1903 and topped with several beautiful Neo-Byzantine cupolas, this is one of the best loved Russian Orthodox churches in Vilnius. Among the numerous icons hanging inside are potted plants that make the place feel really alive. Next to the icons are special prayers for each saint, but as everything in the church is written in Old Church Slavonic youll need a translator to help work them out. The church was fully restored inside and out in 2009 Q Service Sat 16:00, Sun 09:00. B-2, S. Daukanto 1, tel. (+370) 5 260 93 47. On the other side of the Presidential Palace from the University, this charming little churchs history dates back to 1543 and the building of a chapel on the site to commemorate the martyrdom of a group of 14th-century Franciscan friars. Slowly added to over the centuries, including the attached Bonifratri Monastery, the church is now more or less late Baroque in appearance with a few rococo flourishes, and is notable as being the only church in Vilnius converted from an ordinary house rather than being purpose-built. The small interior is well worth having a peep at if the main doors arent bolted as they usually are, the most outstanding feature being the painting, Holy Virgin Mother of Snow on the high altar, a copy of which can be found on the fresco over the main entrance. The small square in which the church is located also features a stylised, Soviet-era bust of Laurynas Stuoka-Guceviius (17531798), Lithuanias first serious architect who was responsible for the contemporary look of the Cathedral-Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus among other buildings in the city. Q Mass 17:15, Sun 09:30, 12:00. J
Church of the Holy Cross (v. Kryiaus Banyia)
5 215 37 47. Originally dating back to the middle of the 14th century, this slightly unusual-looking church which also functions as the citys Russian Orthodox Cathedral and that as such is often referred to as the Cathedral of the Theotokos in Vilnius owes much of its partial Neo-Byzantine design to reconstruction work completed in 1522. In 1808, soon after the start of tsarist rule in Vilnius, the building fell into the hands of Vilnius University who divided it into two floors, constructing a library, classrooms and dissection rooms for anatomy classes inside. In 1842 soldiers moved in as the church acted as a barracks before it took on several other uses before General Muravyov and his brother had it restored to its current Georgian appearance and used as a house of worship towards the end of the 1860s. Q Service Sat 09:00, 16:00, Sun 09:00. J
Church of the Holy Mother of God (Skaisiausios Dievo Motinos Cerkv) D-3, Maironio 14, tel. (+370)
April - July 2013
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what to see
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English language ecumenical worship every Sunday at 9.30 a.m. All welcome!
Other activities: Mid-week Fellowship: Wednesdays 6 p.m. Mid-week Ladies Bible study How to find us: The church is located at Vokie!i" gatv# 20
Cerkv ir Bazilijon Vartai) C-5, Auros Vart 7b, tel. (+370) 5 212 25 78. Consisting of a church, monastery, belfry and beautiful rococo gate, with the exception of the latter much of it in a state of hideous disrepair, the Holy Trinity Church originally dates from 1514 and features elements of Gothic, Baroque and Neo-Byzantine architecture. Built at the behest of the Belarusian national hero Konstantin Ivanovich Ostrozhsky (Konstantinas Ostrogikis, ca. 1460-1530), the church, which was extensively altered after a serious fire in the middle of the 18th century, belongs to the Uniates or Eastern Catholic Church, a peculiar faith which fuses together many Orthodox beliefs whilst recognising the Pope as Gods representative on Earth. The church is a complete mess inside, almost completely empty with the exception of some wonderful, barely visible frescos both inside and out. Theres also a small chapel on the right as you enter. Renovation work is slow. The elaborate, 17.9m gate was built in 1761 to a design by Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767). Q Service only in Ukrainian Mon - Wed 06:30, Sat 09:00, Sun 10:00. J
C-3, Didioji 2. Dating back to the middle of the 14th century and itself built on the site of what many believe to be a former pagan place of worship, the charming albeit somewhat diminutive Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva can not only claim to have been the first church in Vilnius to be made of stone but is also the alleged location of the baptism in 1705 of none other than Hannibal, the African prince and great grandfather of Alexander Pushkin who was brought to Russia by Peter the Great from the part of Africa thats now Eritrea. Originally in the hands of the Uniate Church, the building, which had been rebuilt on several occasions due to fire, fell into disrepair around the time of the Third Partition of 1795, laying abandoned for seven decades before being almost completely rebuilt in 1864 only to suffer major fire damage during WWII. Reconstructed in 1949, the building closed in 1961, opening a year later as a museum of painting before being returned to the Orthodox Church on May 31, 1991. Unusually for a Russian Orthodox Church in Lithuania, services are conducted in Lithuanian once a week on a Sunday. J
Holy Trinity Church & Basilian Gate (v. Trejybs
Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva (Pyatnickaya)
(go through the archway and iron gates: the church entrance is on the left under the bell tower)
How to contact us: www.vilniuschurch.org Pastor Bruce Sloan: +370 6382 7360 Email: internationalchurchofvilnius@gmail.com
5 212 21 25. Built in 1555, two years after the first German-speaking Lutheran community is said to have arrived in Vilnius, the crowning glory of this small Gothic and Baroque church on the street named after the citys German community is the gorgeous rococo altar, dating from 1741 and the work of Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767), a Lithuanian of German extraction and the citys foremost architect at the time. Serving as a workshop and basketball court under the Communists, the building was returned to its congregation in 1991 and has since become the predominant house of worship for the capitals multi-denomination, English-speaking Christians. Q Service Tue, Thu 08:00, Wed 18:00, Fri 17:00, Sun 09:30 (English, Ecumenical Protestant), 11:00 (Lithuanian). J
Evangelical Lutheran Church (Evangelik Liuteron Banyia) B-4, Vokiei 20, tel. (+370)
Franciscan Church (Prancikon Banyia) B-4, Trak 9-1, tel. (+370) 5 261 42 42. The Franciscan Church, or the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mar y and Franciscan Abbey in Vilnius to give it its full title, dates from the middle of the 14th century. Currently a beguiling building site of crumbling Gothic and Baroque magnificence, work continues both inside and out to restore it to its original beauty. Amidst the hastily assembled wooden seating, pile of bricks on the sanctuary and scaffolding towers, work is slowly moving forwards. At the time of our last visit, the Chapel of the Virgin Mary, complete with a statue of the lady reputed to have miracle-working powers, was nearing completion, giving some indication of how things will eventually look. Q Mass 17:30 (Lithuanian), 19:00 (Polish), Sun 10:00 (Lithuanian), 11:30 (Polish), 13:00 (Polish). J Vilnius In Your Pocket
5 212 77 65. Dating originally from the mid-16th century but predominantly now the combined work of the citys most renowned and prolific religious architect Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767) who spent four years on the rococo design between 1749 and 1753 and later 19th-century Neo-Byzantine modifications, the entire ensemble is comprised of the church, a freestanding bell tower, monastery and convent although its the church interior thats of most interest, being positively bursting with frescos, icons, a magnificent cupola and rich blue and green colours. A particular quirk of the churchs crypt saw it being chosen in the middle of the 19th century as the final resting place of the supposedly incorruptible Saints Jonas, Eustachius, and Antanas, couriers of Algirdas whose remains are displayed dressed in white at Christmas, in black during Lent, in red on all other occasions with the exception of June 26 when theyre put on display entirely naked. Q Service 08:00, 17:00, Sun 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. J
Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit (Staiatiki v. Dvasios Cerkv) C/D-5, Auros Vart 10, tel. (+370)
Ref ormed Evangelical Church (Evangelik Reformat Banyia) A-3, Pylimo 20, tel. (+370) 5
279 10 52. The origin of the Protestant Church in Lithuania, whose three traditional strongholds still exist in Birai, Kdainiai and Vilnius, dates back to John Calvins lifetime in 1557, although this particular church, considered one of the
what to see
finest examples of Neo-Classical architecture in the country, was built considerably later between 1830 and 1835. The work of one of the best local Neo-Classical architects of his day Karolis Podainskis (Pol. Karol Podczaszyski, 1790-1860), the church was closed by the Soviets in 1953, eventually becoming a cinema, a fact the church now betrays courtesy of the cinema seats still in use. Q Service in Lithuanian Sun 11:00. J C-4, Didioji 34, tel. (+370) 5 212 17 15. St. Casimirs in many ways represents a microcosm of Lithuania itself. Founded by the Jesuits and dedicated to Lithuanias patron saint Prince Casimir Jagiellon (1458-1484), construction on the mighty building began in 1604 and was completed in 1635. Burnt to the ground just 20 years later when the Russians invaded in 1655, conflagration visited twice again within the next century in 1709 and 1749 before the architect, mathematician and astronomer Tomas ebrauskas (Pol. Thomas Zubrwka, 1714-1758) restored it to more or less the form its seen in today. Over the centuries the church fell into the hands of the Augustinians, Napoleons Grande Arme, the Russian Orthodox Church (who significantly altered its appearance), the Lutherans (who used it as the garrison church for the occupying German Army during WWI) and others, including the Soviets who turned the whole place into a museum of atheism no less. Returned to the Catholic Church in 1988, the building was consecrated in 1991 and has since undergone a massive renovation project, restoring its predominantly Baroque style with Gothic and Renaissance touches. Of particular interest inside are three late Baroque altars and a recently discovered 17th-century crypt containing dark bas-reliefs featuring miscellaneous religious motifs. Q Mass 17:30, Sun 09:00 (Russian), 10:30, 12:00. J B-4, v. Mikalojaus 4, tel. (+370) 5 262 30 69. Predating the countrys conversion to Christianity by some seven decades, Vilnius oldest surviving church was built in 1320 by German merchant immigrants. Mentioned for the first time in 1387, the impressive, classic red brick Gothic exterior remains pretty much as it looked the day it was finished with the interior having received numerous changes and additions over the centuries. During the disputed annexation of the Vilnius region during the two World Wars, this was the only church in the city open to the citys small Lithuanian-speaking Catholic community. Q Mass 08:00, 18:00, Sat 09:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 14:00. J the vast and imposing Sts. Johns Church was given to the Jesuit Church in 1571 by Zygmunt II August (ygimantas Augustas, 1520-1572). On the dissolution of the Jesuit Order in 1773, the church was handed over to the adjoining University. The present building, which contains elements of all of the major architectural styles associated with Old Town boasts an extraordinary and predominantly Gothic interior whose crowning glory is its organ of which parts date back to an organ that came from the Belarusian city of Polotsk in 1831. The organ, the largest in country and that received a complete overhaul in stages between 1974 and 2000, is used extensively in classical concerts the church is now famous for. Q Mass Tue - Thu 18:00, Sun 11:00, 13:00. J
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St. Casimirs Church (v. Kazimiero Banyia)
St. Nicholas Church (v. Mikalojaus Banyia)
234 02 29. Believed to have been built on the site of a site of worship to Milda, the pagan goddess of love, this breathtaking Late Baroque masterpiece was commissioned to celebrate victory over the Russians in 1668 by Michael Casimir Pac, the Grand Hetman of the Lithuanian armies, who never lived to see its completion. Financed by two of Pacs cousins and completed under several master craftsmen including the Polish Jan Zaor and Italian Gianbattista Frediani, the rather plain faade betrays an interior by Giovanni Pietro Perti and Giovanni Maria Galli thats quite simply out of this world. Containing over 2,000 astonishing stucco mouldings representing miscellaneous religious and mythological scenes, of equal magnificence are the 20th-century altar containing a wooden figure of Christ, Antakalnio Jzus (Jesus of Antakalnis) which features real human hair brought from Rome in 1700 and the Latvian chandelier made of brass and glass beads and dating from 1905. Q Mass 07:00, 07:30, 17:00 (Polish), 18:00, Sun 07:30, 08:30 (Polish), 10:00, 11:30, 13:00 (Polish), 18:00.
Sts. Peter & Pauls Church (v. Apatal Petro ir Povilo Banyia) J-3, Antakalnio 1, tel. (+370) 5
Photography tours
Tel. (+370) 630 166 86, info@richardschofieldphotography.com, www.richardschofieldphotography. com. Help fund an English documentary photographers work in Lithuania and spice up your portfolios at the same time by taking one of his unique photography walks or tours. Choose from a range of affordable and thoroughly original city walks and extended tours around Lithuania to either a pre-designed itinerary or using a more flexible approach based on the individual interests and photographic aspirations of the client. Everything from mobile phones to dSLRs welcome.
St. Nicolas Church (v. Nikolajaus Cerkv) C-4, Didioji 12, tel. (+370) 5 261 85 59. The forerunner to this church supposedly dates back to the second decade of the 16th century, belonging from 1609 until 1827 to the Uniate Church. At some time during the 18th century the original church burnt down and was replaced soon after in the Late Baroque style. At the height of the tensions between the Russians and several other ethnic communities in the city, the church was confiscated on the orders of General Muravyov and converted into a Russian Orthodox church with several Neo-Byzantine additions made in 1865. With its predominantly Catholic tower and typically Orthodox dome the church is one of the most peculiar looking houses of worship in the capital. Q Services Sat 09:00, 17:00, Sun 09:00. J Sts. Johns Church (v. Jon Banyia) C-3, v.
Jono 12, tel. (+370) 5 268 71 55. Built at the same time as Lithuanias conversion to Christianity in 1387, albeit with numerous radical alterations through the centuries,
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Europos Parkas
tre of Europe) Joneikiks, 10km north of Vilnius, tel. (+370) 5 237 70 77, www.europosparkas.lt. Founded in 1991 by the Lithuanian sculptor Gintaras Karosas, this wildly different and recommended countryside excursion brings together a number of names in local and international sculpture including Karosas himself, the Polish artist Magdalena Abakanowicz as well as Dennis Oppenheim and the late Sol Le-Witt from the United States to create a vision that in the words of the parks founder give[s] an artistic significance to the geographic centre of the European continent. Featuring close on 100 works by artists from countries as diverse as Armenia, Japan and Venezuela, the park is spread out over 55 hectares of rolling hills and woodland and includes static and interactive art as well as the now infamous Info Tree, Karosas crumbling shrine to propaganda made up of some 3,000 televisions with a prostrate Lenin at its centre. With the addition of a restaurant and gift shop, the park offers a splendid few hours away from the city for people of all ages. To get there by car, take Kalvarij north to the Santariks roundabout, turn right towards the Green Lakes (alieji Eerai) and follow the signs. Buses leave from the algirio stop on Kalvarij, including a minibus N146 to Skirgiks which goes all the way to the park itself. Alternatively, bus N36 goes part of the way there but requires the last couple of kilometres to be made on foot. Q Open 10:00 - two hours before sunset. Admission 25/11Lt. Europos Parkas (Open Air Museum of the CenSt. Theresas Church (v. Teress Banyia) C-5, Auros Vart 14, tel. (+370) 5 212 35 13. Probably Vilnius best surviving example of Early Baroque religious architecture, work on the first incarnation of St. Theresas was completed in around 1650. Built at the behest and expense of the then Deputy Chancellor Steponas Pacas (Pol. Stefan Pac), the straightforward idea behind its construction was to create the most beautiful church in the city, a fact that can clearly be seen by its elaborate faade, predominantly the work of the Swiss-born Constantino Tencalla (1610-1647) who also worked on St. Georges Chapel inside the citys Cathedral. The spectacular and predominantly rococo interior, much of it added in the middle of the 18th century, is a riot of golds and pinks. Q Mass 18:30, Sun 11:00, 18:30. J
Centre of Europe (Europos Centras) Lithuania has the proud and noble distinction along with at least six other places of being smack in the middle of Europe. The Lithuanian claim stems from a 1989 ruling by Jean-George Affholder of Frances Institut Gographique National who announced that the site lies at Bernotai, close to the village of Purnuks some 26km north of Vilnius. The exact point, which can be reached by driving out of the city on the A14 in the direction of Moltai and looking for the signs, has been commemorated with the construction of an expensive monument, a fact that may go a long way to explaining why a recent recalculation placing the centre of Europe six kilometres closer to Vilnius is being more or less ignored by the cash-strapped nation. Ultimately one should remember that Europe is a concept and not actually a continent at all, making the whole affair slightly ridiculous in the first place. Green Bridge (aliasis Tiltas) B-0. A bridge of one description or another has stood on the spot of the Green Bridge since 1536. The current 103-metre metal construction dates from 1952 and was originally named after a Red Army general. The four groups of extraordinary sculptures at each corner represent agriculture (3.2m, sculptors B. Buas and P . Vaivada), industry and construction (3.2m, sculptors N. Petrulis and B. Vyniauskas), peace (4m, sculptor B. Pundzius) and that old Soviet chestnut, youth (3.2m, sculptors J. Miknas and J. Kdainis). One of a few examples of blatantly Soviet art still in a public place, the Socialist Realist masterpieces have evaded removal on the grounds that they represent no real people living or dead. Criminally rusting and falling apart, something needs to be done to ensure that they stay around for many years to come. Meanwhile, underneath the bridge can be found Kunotas Vildinas contemporary work Grandin (Chain). Yawn. J Hill of Three Crosses (Trij Kryi Kalnas) X-1. Legend has it that long ago seven Franciscan monks were crucified here. Originally erected in the 17th century, Stalin had the crosses removed and buried, and only in 1989 were they rebuilt according to the original plans. The crosses are a great symbol of both Lithuanian mourning and hope. An excellent view of Old Town is also to be found at this spot. J Kenesa F-3, Liubarto 6. The Lithuanian Karaite or Karaim are the smallest ethnic historical community in Vilnius, with just 150 or so remaining members of a people who settled in the region in the 14th century. The Karaite, from whom they get their name, are a Jewish sect who can be traced back to Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq) who adhere to the Old Testament and the Decalogue, but dont accept the Talmud. The Lithuanian Karaite were originally Tatars living on the Black Sea, almost certainly Muslim and who were converted to the Karaite faith in the 13th century. Enigmatic and as yet vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Places of interest
Evaldas Pauza At the Park
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not properly understood, the Lithuanian Karaite, who number less than 500 nationwide, are on the edge of extinction. During the Soviet occupation, their Moorish-looking kenesa, built in 1922, was closed and made into a warehouse. Like the countrys other remaining kenesa in Trakai, the building is almost always locked.
at the times listed below if you number less than 15 people in total. Featuring a galaxy of projectors aimed at the inside of the buildings dome, shows include the fabulously named Venture into Space and Stars and Music. Find the entrance on nipiki, immediately south of Konstitucijos. Q By appointment. Admission 10/7Lt. J
Literat Gatv C-3, Literat. Inspired by Aidas Marnass
poem Literat Gatv about a wistful young man drinking and smoking with his friends on the street of the same name, the highly recommended permanent outdoor gallery on Literat is dedicated to writers past and present whove all left their mark on the city. Comprised of small, mixed-media prints, drawings and paintings celebrating everyone from Jonas Mekas to Czesaw Miosz to Romain Gary, the gallery, all the work of local artists, grew from humble beginnings in 2008 and now features over 100 superb pieces. J
C-4, Saviiaus 11, tel. (+370) 5 262 24 51. Although more famous for his painting, Mikalojus Konstantinas iurlionis (1875-1911) has quite a reputation as a composer. This is the house in which the great man lived for a short time in a small room that can be visited. The rest of the building, which during iurlionis time was both a family house and a shop, features reproductions of his paintings and a small concert space which stages musical productions almost every Wednesday evening. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. J
M. K. iurlionis House (M. K. iurlionio Namai)
Presidential Palace (Prezidentra) C-2/3, S. Daukanto Aikt 3/8, www.president.lt. The official residence of the President of Lithuania, the Presidential Palace started life in the 14th century as a much smaller structure built at the behest of the citys first Bishop, Andrzej Jastrzbiec (?-1398). Gaining its late Classical appearance much later, the building remained the home of the cream of the citys Catholic clergy until the 1795 Partition when it became the residential address of Vilnius tsarist governors. Many illustrious figures have spent a night in the building over the centuries, among them Tsar Alexander I, Napoleon Bonaparte and local boy, some-time dictator, military giant and Polish national hero Jzef Pisudski (1867-1935) to name but a few. After independence in 1990 the building served several purposes until assuming its current role in 1997. The presidential flag can be seen flying over the building when the President is in residence or in the city. Changing of the Guard takes place on Sundays at 12:00. Q Free tours of the Presidential Palace take place on Fridays and Saturdays. Tours are limited to 25 people and are currently in Lithuanian only. For more information, see www. president.lt or call tel. (+370) 706 640 73. J Seimas (Parliament) G-3, Gedimino 53, tel. (+370)
5 239 62 02, www3.lrs.lt. The word Seimas refers to the Lithuanian parliament and can be traced linguistically to the Polish word sejm, meaning a gathering or assembly. With its origins in the second half of the 15th century, the contemporary Seimas is based on the First Seimas, which convened
Planetarium (Planetariumas) A-00, Konstitucijos 12a, tel. (+370) 5 272 41 48, www.planetarium.lt. A classic 60s sci-fi adventure of the old school, Vilnius dilapidated but charming Planetarium is available for prearranged tours of 15 people or more or take your chance vilnius.inyourpocket.com
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in Kaunas in 1922-1923. The work of architect brothers Algimantas and Vytautas Nasvytis, todays Seimas building dates from 1982 and is unremarkable on the outside with the exception of the remains of the barricades built to defend the self-proclaimed independent Lithuanian Supreme Council building after Soviet forces tried to reinstate a Moscowbacked government with the storming of the Television Tower and other buildings in the early hours of January 13, 1991. Located on the western side of the building, the barricades are protected by huge sheets of glass but are clearly visible and retain the original political graffiti of the time. A small exhibition space has been added which will eventually hold public exhibitions related to the struggle for independence. Also find a memorial to the people of Chechnya and the diminutive Chapel of the Virgin Mary, dedicated to the people of Lithuania who gave their lives whilst defending the country in 1991. Guided tours of the Seimas run daily during the week, and include details of the events of 1991 as well as a look at some of the interiors more interesting features including Kazys Morknas extraordinary stained glass windows. Tours must be booked two weeks in advance, and are in Lithuanian unless otherwise requested. Curiously, the word seimas is also used to describe storks, Lithuanias unofficial national bird, when they gather for winter migration.
Television Tower (Televizijos Boktas) Sausio 13-osios 10, tel. (+370) 5 252 53 33, www.lrtc.net. The tallest building in Lithuania, the 326m Television Tower was built from reinforced concrete and steel between 1974 and 1980 to a design by V. Obydovas and K. Balnas. On January 13, 1991 as the disintegration of the USSR reached a frenzied pace and Moscow attempted to retake control of the Lithuanian media, Soviet tanks surrounded it in an assault that killed 13 unarmed civilians. The tower has since become a potent Lithuanian symbol. Around it are a few monuments and photographs of those who lost their lives and whose names the nearby streets are now called in honour of. Inside at ground level is the small Sausio 13-osios Ekspozicija (January 13th Exhibition) commemorating the brutal events including a copy of the original Soviet military attack plan, weapons used to beat protesters and some disturbing photographs. The exhibition is free, although the 40-second ride in the lift to visit the combined 270m restaurant and viewing station isnt. The ticket office also sells several Television Tower souvenirs. A taxi from Old Town costs somewhere in the region of 20Lt. Alternatively, take trolleybus N1, 3, 7 or 16 to the Televizijos Boktas stop. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. Last entrance 21:00. Admission 21Lt. Town Hall (Rotu) C-4, Didioji 31, tel. (+370) 5 261 80 07, www.vilniausrotuse.lt. First mentioned in 1503, the Town Hall most likely dates from the 15th century, while the present Classical structure was built at the end of the 18th century. In 1810 the governor general ordered that the Town Hall housed a theatre, which gave performances on and off until 1924. Since then its interior has been a museum. Until the reestablishment of independence it served as the Lithuanian Art Museum. Today its the Artists Palace where you can see gallery art. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Universiteto 3, tel. (+370) 5 268 72 98, www.vu.lt. Established in 1579 and one of the oldest universities in Eastern Europe, the splendid ensemble that makes up Vilnius Universitys main campus buildings embraces just about every major architectural style of the last 400 years. Originally belonging to the Catholic Church, the University became a secular seat of learning in 1773 and has remained so ever since. Closed for much of the 19th and the first 18 years of the 20th century, famous past students whove studied here include the Polish Romantic poets Adam Mickiewicz and Juliusz Sowacki, the Lithuanian author and historian Simonas Daukantas (see him on any 100Lt note) and the Lithuania-born Polish Nobel Prize-winning author Czesaw Miosz. As well as housing the oldest library in the country, Vilnius University is also famed for its lovely courtyards, of which depending on your definition of what a courtyard is, there are either 12 or 13. The University itself claims 13, although by rights the correct number should be 12 as one of them only has three walls, the fourth having been destroyed during construction work on the neighbouring Presidential Palace. The ensemble was fully restored in 1979 and is well worth investigating. A map can be found at Universiteto 7 explaining where everything is. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5/1Lt. J
Stebuklas C-2, Arkikatedros Square. About halfway
between the Cathedral and the bell tower is the stebuklas, or miracle. Essentially a piece of stone believed to perform wonders and with the word stebuklas written on it, the site marks the spot where one end of the human chain of some two million protesting Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians stretching the 650km or so to Tallinn was formed on August 23, 1989. A symbol of freedom and hope, stand on the miracle, turn a complete clockwise circle and make a wish. J
Sightseeing tours
Astrida G-3, J. Tumo-Vaiganto 5, tel. (+370) 5
212 27 90, www.astrida.lt. Miscellaneous city tours and tours further afield in a range of languages including such rarities as Chinese, Japanese and Portuguese. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Vilnius University (Vilniaus Universitetas) C-2/3,
Baltic Travel Service Lufthansa City Center
C-5, Subaiaus 2, tel. 1593, www.bts.lt. Guided tours around the city, region and country. Must be booked in advance. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
Lithuanian Holidays B-00, eimyniki 1a, tel.
(+370) 5 263 60 64, www.lithuanianholidays.lt. Jewish and other Vilnius tours. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ups 5, tel. (+370) 652 005 10, www.ballooning.lt. As well as organising a wealth of balloon-related activities nationwide, these people also offer balloon trips over Vilnius and locations around the country. The trips are well priced and last on average about one hour. J
Oreivysts Centras (Ballooning Centre) A-0,
699 540 64, www.vilniuscitytour.com. Tours of the historic centre in a number of languages. Also audio guides available. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 15:00. JA
Vilnius City Tour C-5, Auros Vart 7, tel. (+370)
Monuments
Frank Zappa A-3, K. Kalinausko 1. Hot Rats! De -
ceased rock and roll pervert, part-time classical composer, father of Moon Unit and all round creative genius Frank Vincent Zappa (1940-1993) has had his head immortalised in brass and stuck on a stainless steel pole in a lacklustre courtyard just west of Old Town. Commissioned
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by a student and created by the late sculptor Konstantinas Bogdanas (1926-2011) who once churned out Lenins and other noteworthy comrades for the bureaucrats in Moscow, the statue is notable as being the first monument of the man to be erected anywhere in the world. If youre now wondering what the connection between Lithuania and Frank Zappa is, dont. There isnt one. J
and in a big burst of billowing balloons the surprisingly beautiful figure of an angel was revealed, playing a trumpet and generally being rather awesome. The work of the Lithuanian sculptor R. Viliauskas, find it at the junction of Uupio and Maln. J
Grand Duke Gediminas C-2, Arkikatedros Square.
Unveiled in September 1996, the monument to Gediminas (Pol. Giedymin, 1275-1341), who famously founded Vilnius in 1323 and who was also Grand Duke of Lithuania from 1316 until his death, stands more or less on the spot where a howling iron wolf that inspired the moving of the countrys capital from Trakai allegedly appeared in his dream. Strangely, the aforementioned beast is represented in V. Kaubas creation not in metal as one would expect, but in stone. J
Lazdyn Pelda C-5, Karmelit & Arkli. Lazdyn Pelda (Hazelnut Owl) was the collective pen name of two sisters, Sofija Ivanauskait-Pibiliauskien (1867-1926) and Marija Ivanauskait-Lastauskien (1872-1957). Born into a family of Polish-speaking nobility in the village of Paragiai in northeast Lithuania, their stories, often full of political observation, were written in Polish by Marija and then translated into Lithuanian by her sibling. The Egyptian style sculpture made in their likeness and unveiled in 1995 is officially known as Seserys (Sisters) and is the work of the sculptor Dalia Matulait and the architects Rimantas Buivydas and Juras Pankeviius. J Mindaugas C-1, Arsenalo 1. Taking pride of place outside
the National Museum since July 6, 2003, the 750th anniversary of the crowning of the countrys one and only king in 1253, Mindaugas (Pol. Mendog, 1200-1263), whos generally considered to be the founder of the Lithuanian state, was a bit of a character to say the least. Clumsy in his personal affairs and switching from paganism to Catholicism and back to paganism to suit his needs, Mindaugas was eventually assassinated by his nephew and served as little more than a footnote in Lithuanian history until he was resurrected by the national revival movement of the late 19th century. R. Midvikis granite likeness of the man sees him sitting on his sostas (throne), from which the Lithuanian language gets its word for capital, sostin, literally the place where the throne is. J
emait A-1, Gedimino 27-29. Born into an impoverished Polish-speaking family with aristocratic roots and affectations, as a child the Lithuanian novelist emait (real name Julija Beniueviit-ymantien, 1845-1921) was forbidden to speak Lithuanian, at the time the language of the common people. Inquisitive and defiant, the young emait made friends with local serfs and was soon fluent in her mother tongue, the language in which she was eventually to write in. Self taught and unusually political for a woman at the time, emaits sombre tales concentrate on issues surrounding the miseries of peasant life and family squabbles, all written in the local vernacular. Her statue, the work of the sculptor Petras Aleksandraviius and architect brothers Algimantas and Vytautas Nasvytis, was unveiled, somewhat strangely, at the height of the Cold War in 1970.
Parks & Gardens

Although they like to flee en masse to the countryside during the warmer part of the year, the good people of Vilnius are also fond of spending time in the citys many public green spaces. Regardless of the fact that theres very little in the way of chaos to get away from, Vilnius parks and gardens can still provide a welcome relief from the immediate concerns of the 21st century. Here are some of the highlights
Uupis Angel D-3, Uupio. After a long and singularly strange career as an oversized egg cup, the tall pillar in the heart of Vilnius breakaway republic Uupis (where every dog has the right to be a dog) finally gave birth to a long awaited angel on April 1, 2002, the official independence day of the wacky district. After a long and sometimes tedious unveiling ceremony, the covers were finally lifted, vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Kaln Parkas X-1. Covering some 25 hectares immediately northeast of Old Town at the confluence of the Neris and Vilnia, Kaln Parkas (Hill Park) is a popular retreat for walks and, during the summer, concerts on the parks Sovietera outdoor stage. Also home to the Hill of Three Crosses (see Places of interest), the area the park now occupies is shrouded in a number of contentious mysteries. The so-called Gedimino Kapo Kalnas (Gediminas Grave Hill) for example, one of the parks four hills and now a spiritual gathering ground for many followers of the countrys pagan Romuva organisation, is supposedly the site where the founder of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, Grand Duke Gediminas (ca. 1275-1341) is buried. No such evidence exists to support the claim however. J
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Vingio Parkas E-4. Situated to the west of the city along the meandering Neris river, this wooded park covering 160 hectares of pine woods was famed as far back as the 16th century. Its believed that Alexander I was at a ball here when he received news of Napoleons invasion in 1812, an event mentioned in Tolstoys War and Peace. The park is more famous these days as the setting for rock concerts, firework displays, jogging and the launching of hot-air balloons during balmy summer evenings. Also within its confines are a botanical gardens and a fabulous little childrens zoo.
The cemetery is still in use, but is generally closed to visitors (although the fence surrounding it is hardly very high). According to tradition, women are forbidden from visiting. Find it on the stretch of irni to the east of the road to the airport, before the ski slopes on the north side.
Cemeteries
Vilnius extraordinary cemeteries offer an often emotional and always interesting journey through the rich tapestry of races and cultures that built the city. For information on the citys two Jewish cemeteries, see Jewish Vilnius.
Antakalnis Cemetery (Antakalnio Kapins) J/K-2,
Kari Kap 11. Thought to have begun life as a cemetery way back in 1809, the so-called Soldiers Cemetery (Kari Kapins) can be found in the forested area of Antakalnis a couple of kilometres or so from Old Town. The Polish soldiers graveyard, distinguished by undulating rows of identical headstones, lies to the left of the entrance. Nearby stands a small collection of Tartar graves complete with Islamic symbols. To the left and deeper into the cemetery, large Soviet soldiers guard the (no-longer burning) eternal flame. To the soldiers right is the ghastly Soviet memorial encasing the graves of Soviet Lithuanias dignitaries. Take a hike up the stairs on your left to reach the red star graves of Soviet soldiers who died fighting Lithuanian partisans. Perhaps most poignant are the graves of the border guards murdered by the Soviets at Medininkai on July 31, 1991 and the civilians killed by Soviet paratroopers during the January 1991 demonstrations, all guarded by a stunning Piet. Still in use, among the more notable recent additions are a large patch of grass surrounded by a tiny concrete wall and containing the remains of the Napoleonic soldiers discovered in the city in 2002, and the final resting place of the often overlooked Lithuanian composer Antanas Rekaius (1928-2003). virgdyno 3. Founded in 1810 by Bernardine monks, the cemetery is perhaps the most attractive and romantic cemetery in Vilnius. Located over a little less than four hectares on a rolling hill running down to the Vilnia river, the cemetery fell into disrepair soon after WWII before being finally shut in 1970. Independence has seen it flourish with the assistance of the Lithuanian and Polish governments, although much work remains to be done. Of particular interest are the columbaria, once used for holding urns full of ashes and now slowly crumbling away. Among the eminent university professors, scientists and painters buried here find a few surprises including Geleda Dzerzhinskaja (1849-1896), whose claim to fame was giving birth to the founder of the forerunner of the KGB, Felix Dzerzhinsky (Feliksas Dzerinskis).
Rasos Cemetery (Ras Kapins) I/J-5, Ras/ Sukilli. Founded in 1801 and the final resting place of many of the countrys social elite, this extraordinary cemetery stretched over a large area divided by a main road is still in use today, providing an extraordinary snapshot of the cultural history of the city. Hidden away here find the artist and composer Mikalojus Konstantinas iurlionis (1875-1911), the author and publicist Jonas Basanaviius (1851-1927), whose grave is inscribed with a peculiar, 19th-century version of Lithuanian that predates its written standardisation, and the heart of Marshall Jzef Pisudski (1867-1935), the local-born Polish general who played a key role in re-establishing Polish independence in 1918 as well as the countrys subsequent annexation of Vilnius in 1920. Buried with his mother under a black granite slab and surrounded by the graves of Polish soldiers, the rest of him lies in Polands most sacred burial place under Krakws Wawel Cathedral. Parko Kari Kapins) F-4, M. K. iurlionio. A cemetery of one sort or another has been known to exist here since victims of the plague were buried on the site in 1710. During the German occupation of Vilnius during WWI the cemetery was used for soldiers from the German, Turkish, Polish and Russian armies. In 1948 at the height of the destruction of the final resting places of many of the former inhabitants of the city, the Soviet authorities ripped up the gravestones and the site lay abandoned until 1980 when it was unceremoniously turned into a childrens playground and public toilet. Thanks to the efforts of the Germans, the 6.5 hectare site was renovated in 2001, with various markers and a large monument placed where specific burial sites were known to exist. At the eastern entrance of Vingio Parkas, the cemetery offers a poignant glimpse inside the former rich ethnic tapestry that once made up the population of the city. Vingio Parkas Soldiers Cemetery (VIlniaus Vingio
Bernardine Cemetery (Bernardin Kapins) J-4,
mid-1960s of the original cemetery in Lukiks, the former traditional home of the citys Lithuanian Karaite and Tatar communities, a new cemetery was opened in a remote area in the southern part of Vilnius close to the airport. Among the graves, which are marked in an extraordinary mixture of Hebrew (Lithuanian Karaite) and Arabic (Tatar), is that of the Lithuanian Karaite scientist, historian and head of the Lithuanian and Polish Karaite communities Chadi Seraja Chan apalas (Pol. Hadi Seraja Chan Szapsza, 1873-1961).
Lithuanian Karaite & Tatar Cemetery (Karaim ir Totori Kapins) irni. Following the destruction in the
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Jewish vilnius
Lithuanian Jews can be traced back some seven centuries. The classic Lithuanian Jew (Litvak) is known in folklore for a love of education, no-nonsense straighttalk and a sharp wit. Jews were settled from an early date in Vilna, as the capital was and still is known in Jewish culture (more precisely in Yiddish as Vilne). By the 18th century Vilna had become the world capital of traditional Talmudic learning, eventually becoming known as the Jerusalem of Lithuania, or Jerusalem of the North. Towering over the many great Jewish figures the city has produced is unquestionably the Gaon of Vilna (Eyliohu son of ShloymeZalmen, 1720-1797). Between the wars, Vilna (at that time under Polish rule and known as Wilno) was a bustling international centre of modern Yiddish culture and scholarship. During the Holocaust around 95 per cent of Lithuanian Jews were murdered, the highest percentage in Europe, many by local collaborator-killers, including the vast majority of the 80,000 Jewish residents who lived in the city prior to the Nazi invasion of June 1941. Todays small and largely aged community of three to four thousand makes bold efforts to maintain its heritage.
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Museums
Centre for Tolerance (Tolerancijos Centras) A-4,
Naugarduko 10/2, tel. (+370) 5 262 96 66, www. jmuseum.lt. Established inside a former Jewish theatre, the Centre for Tolerances activities include visiting exhibitions and a permanent exhibition on the upper floors, including a small tribute to the Litvak Cubist painter Jacques Lipschitz. It is a beautifully restored building and is used for art exhibitions, symposiums, conferences, discussions and seminars. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5/2Lt. J A-2, Pamnkalnio 12, tel. (+370) 5 262 07 30. The smallest but most important and best known component of the three addresses that collectively comprise the citys Vilna Gaon Jewish State Museum, the museum (also known as the Green House) has been led for many years by the indomitable champion of Holocaust truth-telling, Rachel Kostanian. One of its founders, Dr. Rachel Margolis, now in her late 80s, has been in the news for several years as one of the Jewish antiNazi partisan veterans wanted for questioning by Lithuanian prosecutors. Unable to return to Lithuania from Israel, her cause has been taken up by US congressmen, members of the British House of Lords and others internationally. The museum is famous for its unvarnished, accurate account of the Holocaust in Lithuania and the massive local involvement in the actual killing. Its modest, old-fashioned exhibits are far from high modern, but the heartfelt creation of local Holocaust survivors. Outside is a small monument to Japans pre-war Vice Consul to Lithuania, Chiune Sugihara, who issued thousands of visas against orders, saving many Jews from certain death. Find it at the top of a steep driveway and invisible to anyone simply walking along on the street below. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5/2Lt. J
Holocaust Exposition (Holokausto Ekspozicija)
Jewish life
(+370) 615 838 44. This combined community centre and synagogue is engaged in numerous religious projects aimed at enlightening those who need enlightening and restoring the spirit and sensibilities of religious Jewish life. Led by the Boston-born Rabbi Sholom Ber Krinsky, the only truly resident rabbi in Lithuania over the last decade and a half, Chabad is especially known for its festive Jewish holiday celebrations, at which everybody is welcome. It also supplies visitors with kosher food and needed religious items and services. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Chabad Lubavitch Centre (Chabad Lubavitch yd Religin Bendruomen) D-4, Bokto 19/12, tel.
Paneriai
680 812 78. Between July 1941, and August 1944, approximately 100,000 people of whom over half were Jewish were murdered at this site by the Nazis and a hotpotch of willing Lithuanians from such sinister organisations as the Ypatingasis Brys (Vilnius Special Squad). A traumatic but necessary part of any Jewishrelated visit to Lithuania, find several monuments and the remains of the pits where the victims were burned. The typical Soviet-era museum inside a small building on the murder site features exhibits explained in a baffling and irregular mix of languages including everything from stomach-churning photography to the clothing worn by a man whose job it was to sift the remains of the charred bodies for gold. Not recommended for children. Paneriai (Ponar to the Jews, Ponary to the Poles) is about 8km southwest of Old Town. Catch a Trakai- or Kaunas-bound train, get off at Paneriai and turn right on leaving the station. The site is at the very end of the road. To get there by car, drive out on Savanori in the direction of Kaunas until you reach the E28 highway, peel off here and look for the pitifully few signs put up in order to help you get there. For a chilling, eye-witness account of the events that took place here, read Kazimierz Sakowiczs extraordinary book Ponary Diary, 1941-1943, published by Yale. Q By appointment only. Admission free.
Paneriai Memorial Museum (Paneri Me morialinis Muziejus) Agrast 17, tel. (+370)
Choral Synagogue (Choralin Sinagoga) H-4,

Pylimo 39, tel. (+370) 5 261 25 23. Built in a Moorish style in 1903, this is the only one out of over 100 prewar Jewish prayer houses that still functions. The term Choral Synagogue relates to the inclusion of a choir section, a feature considered by some a revolutionary form of modernisation and assimilation at the time it was built. Rabbi Chaim Burstein, who is here part of each month, officiates. J
03, www.lzb.lt. This is the countrys primary address for its living Jewish people, providing a wide range of cultural, communal and social services from kindergarten through to senior level. Led by the redoubtable Dr. Shimon Alperovich (Simonas Alperaviius), legendary for standing up for Jewish rights however and whenever the community comes under challenge. Along with the two functioning houses of worship, this is where you can meet the genuine Jewish locals. The building also houses a youth club, Jewish Student Union, Union of Former Ghetto and Concentration Camp Inmates and the Union of WWII Jewish Veterans. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Jewish Community of Lithuania (Lietuvos yd Bendruomen) A-2, Pylimo 4, tel. (+370) 5 261 30
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jewish vilnius
Statues & Memorials
Chiune Sugihara A-00. Chiune Sugihara (1900-1986)
Jewish tours
Professional guides lead tours in English and Hebrew through the Baltics and Belarus. Yulik Gurevitch Tel. (+370) 699 907 09 Ilya Lempertas Tel. (+370) 687 132 85 Regina Kopilevich Tel. (+370) 699 054 56 Justina Petrauskait Tel. (+370) 699 540 64 Daniel Gurevich Tel. (+370) 655 174 91 acter Dr. Ouch on Shabad, the girl on his arm is presumably representative of the Jewish Community also commemorated in the statue, but she may just be a chum. J
was the Kaunas-based Japanese consul to Lithuania for the briefest of periods during 1939 and 1940. Between July 31 and September 1, 1940, Sugihara and a Dutch colleague saved around 6,000 Jews by issuing visas, against the orders of their superiors, to get them out of the country. Issuing stamps right up until the moment his train departed for Berlin, Sugihara even handed his stamp out from the train window to a Jew on the platform who continued stamping on his behalf. Many of those he saved later settled in Palestine, and have since championed his cause. A small monument along with dozens of cherry trees planted in his honour can be found on a grassy slope directly southwest of the Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva.
Jewish Cemetery (yd Kapins) E-1, Sudervs Kelias 28. By Soviet order, both old Jewish cemeteries were destroyed after the war. With the help of foreign diplomacy only a few graves of famous people such as the Gaon of Vilna were moved here in a concession to the community. This new Jewish cemetery was actually opened just before the war and nowadays, especially on Sundays, is a place where Jewish people visit the graves of their beloved and you can meet interesting locals. The Gaons grave attracts visitors from many countries who leave notes of supplication by the graveside. To the left of the entrance is a small office where maps of the cemetery can be obtained if its open. Gravestones are covered in the writing of many languages including Yiddish, Lithuanian, Russian, Polish and English. To get there by public transport from the centre, take bus N73 from the Lukiks stop or N43 from the station. Map of the Ghetto (Geto emlapis) B-4/5,
Rdnink 18. On the site of the former gate to the larger of Vilnius two ghettos, find a map showing the size and positioning of the area where the citys Jewish population were kept before liquidation commenced. J
the same time as the citys original Jewish cemetery in nipiks was closed, the Uupis Old Jewish Cemetery survived until after the war when it was destroyed by the authorities and its gravestones, along with the gravestones from the nipiks cemetery, used in the construction of several building projects in the city. Now little more than a few broken stones on the side of a steep hill with a couple more on the top, a large memorial marks the site. To find it, turn left from Oland onto Krivi and its a few metres up on the left.
Uupis Old Jewish Cemetery (Uupio Senosios yd Kapins) J-3/4, Krivi. Founded in 1828 at around
Vilna Shul-hoyf (Vilnius Synagogue Square) B-3. Prior to WWII this space was filled with dozens of prayer houses as well as the Great Synagogue, an enormous structure built several stories underground so that it wouldnt surpass the height of any churches. In front of the Gaons house at the other end of the square near the present-day start of yd stands a rather half-hearted monument to him. A resentful rumour circulates among some that its a recycled Soviet-era bust of Marx or Engels. J
C-2/3, Old Campus Vilnius University (S. Daukanto Courtyard), tel. (+370) 5 268 71 87, www.judaicvilnius. com. Provides credit courses and the famed month-long summer programme in Yiddish, relocated from Oxford in 1998 by its founder, Professor Dovid Katz (www.dovidkatz. net). QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Romain Gary H-4, Corner of J. Basanaviiaus and Mindaugo. Born and raised a few doors from here at whats now J. Basanaviiaus 18 as Romain Kacew (Katsev), Romain Gary became a prize-winning French author after moving to the country with his mother when he was 14. After a distinguished war record as a pilot in the Free French Air Force (Forces Ariennes Franaises Libres), Gary published his first novel, Education Europenne, in 1945. Perhaps best remembered for writing the screenplay to the 1962 WWII blockbuster The Longest Day, Romain Gary was married twice, held the unique (and illicit) distinction of winning the Prix Goncourt on two occasions and suffered from depression, a fact that led to his suicide in Paris on December 2, 1980. Unveiled in 2007, Romas Kvintas Vilnius statue shows a little boy clutching a galosh, recreating an alleged moment during Garys childhood in the city when he reportedly ate one of his overshoes in an attempt to impress a little girl living next door, a scene recreated in his autobiographical Promise at Dawn (1961), a highly recommended book of which a large part is set in this part of town. Tsemach Shabad B-4, Corner of Msini and Dysnos.
A statue of Doctor Tsemach Shabad (1864-1935), famous for numerous social acts as well as being the leader of the Vilnius (Wilno) branch of the Folkspartei, or Jewish Peoples Party, stands in the territory of the former ghetto, his posture conveniently allowing passers by a quick cuddle and photograph. Worth a look if youre in the area or are particularly interested in the Russian childrens author and translator Kornei Chukovsky (1882-1969), who based his infamous char-
Vilnius Yiddish Institute (Vilniaus Jidi Institutas)
Holocaust in the Baltics www.holocaustinthebaltics.com. The meaning of the word genocide in Lithuania is somewhat at odds with that of the generally understood connotation. As part of the almost silent debate currently surrounding the little-known Prague Declaration of June 3, 2008, which is attempting to put pressure on the governments of Europe to recognise communist crimes against humanity as equal to those perpetrated by the Nazis (the so-called Double Genocide theory), Vilnius Universitys Professor Dovid Katz, who is research director at the Vilnius Yiddish Institute, has recently become the editor of a new website aimed at, in his own words providing The Second Opinion on this hugely complex and emotional issue. Still in its early stages, the website is building a database of related material and links on the subject of the Holocaust in the Baltics and the Double Genocide issue in general.
Websites
www.inyourpocket.com
Mail & Phones

Post
dimino 7, tel. (+370) 700 554 00, www.post.lt. The glorious 1969 Soviet design inside the citys main post office betrays a recently improved service thats finally catching up with the 21st century. A ticket machine has been installed with instructions in English, making a visit finally something to look forward to rather than the nightmare it was in the past. Selecting a ticket in English should send you to a window where somebody speaks it. Note the extraordinary calendar on the wall on the right at the back that needs changing by hand daily. Late night post offices operate in two of the citys large shopping centres at Ozo 25 (Akropolis), open 10:00 - 22:00, and Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), open 10:00 - 22:00. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
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Central Post Office (Centrinis Patas) B-1, Ge-
Postal rates
Lithuania Letter (44g) Postcard (20g) CD (130g) 1.65Lt 1.55Lt 2.50Lt EU 2.95Lt 2.45Lt 5.90Lt Outside EU 3.35Lt 2.90Lt 11.75Lt
Express mail rates

Comparative rates for sending a package weighing a maximum of 500g. London Paris New York DHL EMS TNT UPS 170Lt 215Lt 163Lt 174Lt 170Lt 213Lt 181Lt 192Lt 240Lt 210Lt 265Lt 279Lt
Mobile phones Laptop login
Bit G-5, emaits 15, tel. (+370) 699 232 30, www.bite. lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Wireless W Free wireless internet in the centre of Vilnius has more or less reached saturation point, with scores of hotels, restaurants, bars and even shopping centres providing fast connection speeds at no cost. If you cant find a free connection, the national Zebra network offers a range of paid services including a handy option for browsing over a 24 hour period for just 5Lt, which is available via SMS to anyone with a local mobile number. 3G/4G Bit (www.bite.lt) and Omnitel (www.omnitel.lt) provide 3G services for laptop connection to the internet allegedly wherever you are within Lithuania. Far from perfect, if youre prepared for slightly slower speeds than broadband and the occasional loss of signal then one of these services might me just for you. The above-mentioned mobile operators also offer the so-called pre-4G services, although the only true 4G service is provided by Mezon (www.mezon.lt), which can be ordered with the help of a local for a period of two weeks for just 29Lt. Weve been using Mezon for several months now and have no complaints whatsoever. Dialup Assuming youve got an RJ-11 plug on the end of your cable (visitors from the UK please note that you probably dont), a nifty, hassle-free dialup option is available for those who cant find any other connection. Simply dial tel. 890 15 55 55 from anywhere in the country using your dial-up software of choice leaving the username and password blank and away you go. Calls are charged at a standard 0.12Lt/ min at all times from a private line (this figure may well be a lot higher in a hotel), and everything is charged directly to whoevers telephone account youre using.
Omnitel B-1, Gedimino 12, tel. 1533, www.omnitel.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J TELE2 G-4, Vytenio 9/25, tel. (+370) 601 102 00, www. tele2.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Internet cafs
@home C-3, Pilies 22-1, tel. (+370) 5 261 83 34.
Recently undergoing a major refit and re-brand to boot and now known as @home, this is pretty much the only place left in the city centre that could be called an internet caf, and even then theyve only got two PCs. The major difference is the addition of a counter serving coffee, sandwiches and vegetarian food for an altogether more pleasurable experience. Wireless access is free and theres printing services available as well. The entrance is through the courtyard around the back. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JUW Takas G-4, J. Jasinskio 1/8 (entrance from V. Kudirkos, 2nd floor), tel. (+370) 685 240 24. Reasonably central, climb the flight of stairs and fight with the teenagers for a battered albeit perfectly decent PC. Also find inside a kiosk selling snacks and coffee around the clock. Q Open 24hrs.
ISPs
Infostruktra C-3, Pilies 23/15, tel. (+370) 5 239 17 11, www.is.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. J Zebra Tel. 1817, www.teo.lt.
Sun. J
Aiva Sistema A-5, Aguon 10, tel. (+370) 5 212 32 58, www.aiva.lt. Q Open 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat,
Prepaid SIM cards

Card Bit (Labas) Omnitel (Eys) TELE2 (Pildyk) Price (Lt) 6 0.99 4.50 Local (Lt/min) 0.49 0.09 0.48 London (Lt/min) 2.30 2.03 1.85 Top-up (Lt) From 5 From 5 From 5 SMS (Lt) 0.10 0.09 0.10 Voicemail (Lt/call) 0.50 Free 0.15 Coverage 99% 99% 96%
Note All prices quoted are for peak-time calls, and are subject to change during the lifespan of this guide.
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Shopping
Unless youre Latvian or Polish, you probably didnt come to Vilnius to shop. However, shopping is fun, and, in the case of certain products (notably Lithuanian alcohol, cigarettes and amber) a hell of a lot cheaper than it is in the West. The main shopping areas in Vilnius can be divided neatly into the two areas of Old Town (antiques, amber, books old and new and some nice pieces of art) and parts of the citys classiest street, Gedimino (designer clothes, mobile phones and more books). The citys markets are also well worth a visit for an authentic, blast to the past experience if nothing else, as indeed are the increasing number of large shopping centres around the edge of the city, where among other things youll find all the clothing and footwear shops weve chosen not to list here. few other shops inside the same building. Also at irmn 64, Ateities 91. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. ALK VCUP H-3, Konstitucijos 16, tel. (+370) 5 273 15 15, www.vcup.lt. Once colossal, this former flagship Soviet shopping sensation looks more like a corner shop than an experience these days. Limited retail and dining just north of the river. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAULW
Markets
Shopping in a Lithuanian market (turgus), although perhaps not for the faint hearted, is an experience to be savoured if at all possible when visiting the country. Remember that many things can be haggled down in price, and please watch your wallets, especially during the weekends. akropolis.lt. Catching on to the latest craze to sweep the nation, this weekly flea market outside the vast Akropolis shopping centre features a fairly decent selection of stalls selling everything from old paintings to Soviet memorabilia. QOpen Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat.
Shopping centres
A huge place full of shops and the flocks that visit them. In case shopping isnt your thing, you can try ice-skating, bowling, or see a film. Theres also a good range of restaurants and a constant cacophonous argument between the cheap car alarms in the enormous car park. Not very central, find it about 3km north of the action. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTAULKXW Europa H-3, Konstitucijos 7a, tel. (+370) 616 956 80, www.pceuropa.lt. In the heart of the business district just north of the river, find three floors of mostly clothes shops plus a couple of restaurants and a handful of little pods for drinking coffee in. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. PTAULKW Gedimino 9 B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 659 946 39, www.gedimino9.lt. Located inside a grand 19th-century building in the heart of the city, this bustling shopping centre includes a wide range of retail outlets selling everything from fashion to fish, some great antique stalls, restaurants and cafs, a gallery and even a place for small business start-ups. Best of all are the highly recommended Studio 9 restaurant and the free wireless internet throughout. QOpen 10:00 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PJAUKW IKI Commercial Centre X-00, irmn 2, tel. (+370) 5 272 19 68, www.iki.lt. This three-floor shopping centre features a large Iki supermarket at ground level, a handful of average shops downstairs and up the escalators some fashion outlets, a shoe shop, a ili Kaimas restaurant and, at the time of going to press, a small kiosk selling readymade sushi. Also at J. Jasinkio 16. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAUL Ozas H-1, Ozo 18, tel. (+370) 5 210 01 50/1588, www. ozas.lt. Opened in August 2009, the large Ozas shopping centre offers more gargantuan shopping and restaurant services to the city. Find inside a veritable cavalcade of shops selling everything from designer clothes to food. The large Prisma supermarket stocks one of the most extensive ranges of alcohol in Vilnius. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTAULKXW Panorama F/G-2, Saltoniki 9, tel. (+370) 5 219 58 11, www.panorama.lt. Loads of retail outlets, entertainment centres and restaurants close to the centre in vrynas. Many high street names, a top floor of restaurants, the countrys first electric go-carting centre and smoking rooms next to the public toilets. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTAULKXW Rimi Hypermarket G-5, Savanori 16, tel. (+370) 5 246 12 00, www.rimi.lt. Not quite everything under one roof (they dont sell roofs for example), but not far off it. A huge heated expanse offering electrical goods, clothes, books, tools, toys and household essentials as well as a fairly extensive collection of local and imported foodstuffs. Also a
Akropolis G-1, Ozo 25, tel. 1588, www.akropolis.lt.
Akropolio Blus Turgus G-1, Ozo 25, tel. 1588, www.
Flowers & Plants

If youre thinking of giving flowers to somebody in Lithuania, rem em b er that superstition remains rife here and its easy to m a ke a m i s take. There are c er tai n rul es that should be adhered to if you wish to keep on the right side of your sweetheart and/or future parents-in-law. Firstly, unless somebody just died, make sure you only give an odd number of flowers or stems. One will do, but isnt particularly welcomed unless its a single red rose for the one you love. Lilies and chrysanthemums are potent symbols of death and should be left well alone unless heading to the cemetery. If giving flowers to members of the older generations avoid yellow ones. Yellow is the colour of jealousy, and can be traced back to the Middle Ages when yellow was the traditional colour of the dresses worn by ladies of a questionable profession. Carnations, especially red ones, are symbols of the communists. Again, avoid. F l owe r M a r ke t (G l i Tu r g u s) G - 4 , J . Basanaviiaus 42. Originally, flowers were sold in a small market at Reformat, which was a firewood market before that and even further back served as a cemetery for the church across the street. After the erection of the 1983 Monument to the Soviet Partisans on the site, the market was moved to its current location. Notable as being the only 24-hour market in the city, this is the place to come for individual flowers, wreaths and bouquets. Q Open 24hrs. J Gls ir Manufaktra B-5, Rdnink 11/11, tel. (+370) 5 261 51 61, www.sododizainas.lt. A good selection of flowers and plants for the home and/ or special occasions. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
Shopping
Putino 5, www.vilniusclub.lt. What started out as a small gathering of like-minded aficionados trading miscellaneous antiquities in exchange for a bit of pocket money has slowly evolved into a serious weekly event. Stretched out round two full sides (three on a good day) of the Trade Union Palace as well as more stalls selling mostly old coins inside the building, items up for grabs include everything from Czechoslovakian clarinets to furniture to WWII-era Nazi propaganda posters in Lithuanian. The latest news is that several of the sellers now also operate at the weekly Akropolio Blus Turgus every Sunday. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun. J Kalvarij Market (Kalvarij Turgus) H-2, Kalvarij 61, tel. (+370) 696 357 18. Featuring everything from old ladies selling garlic bulbs and carrier bags to the occasional bargain goat (cash only), one of the citys most endangered species is a must-see attraction for anyone who wants a taste of what the rest of the countrys really like. One of the best places in town for meat, locally-produced honey and cameras manufactured in the CCCP , also find tropical fish, manbags, Minsk bicycles and cheap cigarettes from the Roma girls near the main entrance. QOpen 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Souvenir Market (Suvenyr Turgus) C-2/3, Pilies 23. The only market we list aimed exclusively at foreigners wallets is a predominantly lacklustre hotchpotch of stalls selling amber, linen, wood carvings, hand-knitted socks, Soviet-era bits and pieces and a few paintings. Every tourist destination has one. This is Vilnius. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. J Srinink Namai (Cheesemakers Home) A-2, Vilniaus 22/1 (Mano Guru), tel. (+370) 698 398 93, www.surininkunamai.lt. A weekly market inside Mano Guru selling locally-produced cheese from four small farms as well as chocolate and bread. See the website to find out more about these very nice people. QOpen , Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat. J kinink Turgus G-1, Ozo 25 (Akropolis). A small and interesting outdoor affair featuring a handful of stalls selling locally grown produce as well as cheese and meat etc. Find them trading their wares outside the main entrance of Akropolis every Saturday. QOpen Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun. Verslo Parkas Garinai 4km from Vilnius just off the Kaunas highway, www.gariunai.lt. Covering a vast area of 120 hectares (there are some who say its the largest outdoor market in Europe) and attracting an average 50,000 shoppers every day, Garinai sells cars on one side of the road plus all manner of cheap consumer goods of dubious quality on a truly expansive scale on the other. A taxi from a reputable firm costs around 30Lt to get there from the city centre. Alternatively, look for the minibuses around the train and bus stations with Garinai signs on the front. QOpen 06:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu 04:00 - 14:00, Sat 05:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
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Collectors Club (Kolekcinink Klubas) G-4, V. M.
selling the stuff and youll soon see it comes in such diverse colours as blue, black, white and yellow. Amber C-5, Auros Vart 9, tel. (+370) 5 212 19 88, www.ambergift.lt. An astounding Aladdins cave of amber. The walls and ceiling are plastered with glowing chips of the stuff while display cabinets are full of jewellery, sculptures and more. Worth visiting even if youre not interested in shopping. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. PJA
Amber
According to local legend, amber (gintaras) originates from the tears of the sea goddess Jrat and the stones from her castle, which was destroyed by Perknas, the pagan god of thunder, when he discovered her passionate love affair with the mortal fisherman Kastytis. Scientists, not generally being of the pagan faith, think different. Some 40 million years ago or thereabouts the earth got warmer, causing an increase in the secretion of resin in the pine forests in the region. The streams of resin swept down rivers and into the Baltic Sea, sometimes sweeping up a stray bug along the way. Its this fossilised resin that now sits in deltaic deposits off the coasts of Kaliningrad, Lithuania, Poland and Sweden. Ask most people and theyll tell you amber is a dark honey colour. However, visit anywhere
Amber Museum-Gallery C-3, v. Mykolo 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 30 92, www.ambergallery.lt. Although not officially a museum this two-storey ode to amber offers explanations in English, German and Lithuanian about the formation, colour, harvesting and processing of Baltic Gold. Follow ambers history through a series of ancient rooms in the cellar. Amber polishing demonstrations available upon request. The nice people here also run the nearby AV17 gallery at Auros Vart 17, which is the only place of its type showing both contemporary art and jewellery. Also at v. Mykolo 12, Auros Vart 17. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JA Beata Amber C-3/4, Stikli 9/10, tel. (+370) 5 262 89
61, www.beataamber.lt. As much a wholesaler as retailer, you can pick up amber at a variety of stages of production here. There are hunks of raw amber, various polished beads and blobs that you can use to make your own jewellery and fine finished creations. Also at M. K. iurlionio 84 (Crowne Plaza Vilnius), Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva). Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun, Mon. JA
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Shopping
Antiques
Unless the item in question is less than 50 years old, some degree of bureaucracy will almost certainly be required to get antiques out of the country. A reputable antiques salesperson will assist you with this. If they cant, you might like to think again about making the purchase. ek-art.lt, www.ek-art.lt. An incredible collection of paintings, furniture, religious objects and other works of art from Lithuania, Russia, Germany and beyond established over two decades ago and one of the most reliable places in town to buy antiques. An excellent place to know about for all serious collectors, the shop now also stocks a range of antique Persian carpets. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA Fabra Ars C-4, Didioji 20, tel. (+370) 652 815 58. Classic and original artworks, mostly from the 18th and 19th centuries. Mostly of interest to collectors and dealers. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Mon 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PJAW Vilnius Antiques Centre C-3, Dominikon 16, tel. (+370) 5 262 74 79, www.antiques.lt. A wide selection of paintings, icons, furniture, silverwear and other curiosities. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
e.k.art C-4, Didioji 27, tel. (+370) 605 222 22, info@
Books etc.
Bookworms and cheapskates should note that in addition to the following bookshops, reading matter can be found at various libraries listed in our Directory. International press is best found in the citys better hotels, of which some offer a pre-ordering service for newspapers and magazines they dont usually stock.
Akademin Knyga C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370) 5 266 16 80, www.humanitas.lt. A wide range of works for lexicographers, plus the usual dictionaries, reference books and paperback novels. One of the better places in town for foreign literature, which youll find in the back room downstairs. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA Didysis Pegasas G-1, Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 5 238 77 52, www.pegasas.lt. A bit of a way to go but the trips usually worth it. Upstairs is a selection of paperbacks in English that vary in quantity from a handful to over 1,000. To the left as you enter is a good selection of titles on art, photography etc. To the right find guidebooks aplenty. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A Draugyst B-2, Gedimino 2, tel. (+370) 5 268 50 80, www.vaga.lt. This former largish bookshop recently removed half its stock and replaced it with a caf operated by the best caf chain in the country. The English-language novels can still be counted on one hand, but now theres a reason to visit. Also find a decent selection of books about Lithuania in English. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Fri 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. JAW French Bookshop Pegasas C-3, Didioji 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 05 17, www.pegasas.eu. Adjoining the French Cultural Centre, if they dont stock it they will happily order. You can also subscribe to French-language magazines here. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA Humanitas B-3, Dominikon 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 11 53, www.humanitas.lt. Glossy books about art, architecture, interior design, shoes and Jamie Oliver. Also travel guides and atlases. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA Vilnius In Your Pocket
Mint Vinetu B-3, v. Ignoto 16/10, tel. (+370) 618 203 47, www.mintvinetu.com. Hooray for the lovely people who opened this very welcome second-hand bookshop with small attached caf in Old Town. The choice of books, including titles in English, may be small but its the best anybodys managed to do so far. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. JAW Rotas B-5, Pylimo 42, tel. (+370) 5 212 47 60, www. rotas.lt. One would imagine that in an increasingly international city the choice of books in languages other than Lithuanian would also be growing, a fact that the last couple of years has shown in Vilnius to be anything but the truth. Its therefore always a pleasant surprise to discover a bookshop that stocks foreign language books (in this case most of the English), of which Rotas stocks more than the current standard offering that takes less than 30 seconds to browse before leaving empty handed. The selection of novels here may not be breathtaking but the range of modern and classic fiction should be enough to keep any English speaker who needs something to read at least partially happy. In a truly local style the owners have decided to make individual entrance and exit doors for the place, which if you dont speak Lithuanian can be confusing. In short, enter through the door on the left and exit to the far right of the shop in the small space where you also pay for your purchases. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Fri 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA Rdnink Knygynas B-5, Rdnink 20, tel. (+370) 5 261 02 66, www.rudninkuknygynas.lt. A rather cute little shop on the very edge of Old Town, as well as a good selection of a fine range of English language magazines on the subject of design, photography etc. find 12inch records from home and abroad. Also available are a few eco and handmade souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. JA Vaga G-3, Gedimino 50/2, tel. (+370) 5 249 83 92, www.vaga.lt. An old Vilnius favourite on two floors. Find a few English books upstairs. Also at Konstitucijos 7a, Gedimino 9. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
iDeal Solution B-4, Vokiei 5, tel. (+370) 5 240 54 26, www.idealsolution.lt. The best place in town for Apple products, from laptops to iPods. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA The Notebook Shop I-1, S. ukausko 17, tel. (+370) 5 274 15 28, www.nshop.lt. A fine selection of PC laptops plus spare parts, peripheries, service and software. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Computers
Marks & Spencer A-1, Gedimino 20/1, tel. (+370) 5 266 00 88, www.marks-and-spencer.lt. The wonderful M&S recently upped sticks and moved across the road to a new, bigger address. Expect the same brands of clothing for all plus the usual highly recommended food outlet. The new peanut butter in stock is particularly good, plus theres all sorts of goodies including bitter lemon, sweet pickle and other classic goods from the UK. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Food department open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. PJAU
Department stores
Food & Drink
AJ okoladas C-2, Pilies 8, tel. (+370) 655 955 55,
www.ajsokoladas.lt. Delicious chocolates made daily in Trakai and delivered fresh. Sold by the gramme, so you can be as picky as you like. Also at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), Gedimino 46. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PTJA
Shopping
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Austrian Gourmet & Bistro H-1, Ozo 18, tel. (+370) 5 269 72 81. A combined shop and small restaurant specialising in Austrian cuisine including chocolates, Mozartkugel, sparkling wine and schnapps. Visitors to the restaurant can enjoy a decent cup of coffee with an authentic slice of apple strudel, or even indulge in a classic Viennese schnitzel with potato salad. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AVNS Biosala B-4, Vokiei 13, tel. (+370) 686 262 52. A good selection of mostly organic food in tins and packets plus a few extras such as bio-degradable washing powder etc. Find it right in front of the main door as you enter. Also at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. JA Didioji Krautuv I-1, Verki 29-22, tel. (+370) 612 956 13, www.vilniausalus.lt. Over 20 different types of live Lithuanian beer from the good people at the Vilniaus Alus brewery plus a range of Lithuanian, German and Latvian beer in bottles. As well as being an ordinary shop, theres also a window for buying without having to get out of your car. Also a range of snacks and smoked fish. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A Eastanbul H-3, Kalvarij 24a (Ibrahim), tel. (+370) 5 273 17 38, www.ibrahim.lt. This predominantly Turkish food shop is the only thing of its kind in the city. Find the shelves bulging with an ever-increasing collection of things to eat including hummus, chalva (halva), several kinds of ajvar, Turkish yoghurt, herbs and spices, the fabulous rarity thats haloumi and much more besides. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A IKI G-4, J. Jasinskio 16, tel. (+370) 5 249 83 40, www.iki. lt. Lithuanias first supermarket chain, and still sticking to their core values of quality and freshness. Notable for having topnotch in-house bakeries in the bigger stores. Also at irmn 2, Sod 22, Architekt 43/31. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. AL IKI Express D-3, Uupio 7/1, tel. (+370) 5 260 84 88, www.iki.lt. Tucked away in handy locations nationwide, with vilnius.inyourpocket.com
edible treats and a few household goods on offer. Fresh baked goods are a key attraction, as is the decent range of groceries. Also at Pylimo 21, Vokiei 13. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. JA Mamma Mia! C-4, Stikli 7, tel. (+370) 653 800 85, www.dovanukrepsys.lt. A highly recommended new deli in the heart of Old Town selling a superb range of food and drink, mostly from small producers in Italy, Spain, Portugal, Belgium and Germany. As well as a shopping space theres also a small caf inside, where coffee and other drinks are served alongside the aforementioned wonderful food. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. JAVSW Prisma H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 250 10 50, www.prisma.lt. We werent particularly impressed with Prisma when they first opened, perhaps because they were selling themselves on the strength of their range of alcohol, which was (and which remains) not that great and which tends to put one off looking at whats on offer in the rest of the place. Essentially your classic modern large supermarket complete with sections for clothes, household good, crockery, tools and suchlike, this recommended Finnish outfit, which at the time of writing has two more large shops in Kaunas, is definitely worth mentioning for the food. Although you wont find anything extremely exotic here, they do offer a good choice of things not available anywhere else including a generally better than average selection of cheese. Prisma also appears to be the only place in the country currently selling blocks of creamed coconut. Well worth a visit. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. A Rta A-1, A. Jakto 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 68, www. saldumynai.lt. Established in iauliai in 1913 and still based in the city, support your local confectioner and buy some of their treats as a gift or for the simple pleasure of stuffing them in your face. Everything from chocolate bars to caramel to truffles. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis) and Klaipdos 1. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
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Shopping
Senamiesio Krautuv C-3, Literat 5, tel. (+370) 5 231 28 36. An interesting idea that takes the old-fashioned deli idea of fresh products laid out in baskets sold by friendly, rosy-cheeked people and transforms it into a total Lithuanian experience. All the food for sale is local, including fruit, vegetables, pickles, sausage, bread, cakes and drinks. During the summer months the shop turns into a bit of a caf, with chairs and tables in the street. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA turm vyturio uvys D-3, Uupio 9, tel. (+370) 641 535 67, www.sturmuzuvys.lt. A small fishmongers selling a range of fish they catch and smoke themselves from the Curonian Lagoon and Baltic Sea. We havent tried it yet, but we will. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA Sveiki Produktai A-2, Vilniaus 15, tel. (+370) 659 441 44, www.sveikiproduktai.lt. A fine selection of mostly food products, including a range of goods from the UK-based Infinity Foods. Among the selection are Fair Trade organic basmati rice, organic peanut butter and large tins of ghee. Also at Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), Ozo 18 (Ozas), Ozo 25 (Akropolis), irmn 64 (Rimi Hypermarket), Mindaugo 11 (Maxima), Ukmergs 264 (BIG). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA Uupio Krautuv I-4, Uupio 23, tel. (+370) 686 793 50, www.uzupiokrautuve.lt. An early contender for the prize title in the citys delicatessen sweepstakes, the lovely Uupio Krautuv offers a fine selection of Mediterranean gourmet food including olive oil, meat, cheese, a small selection of wine, foie gras and other welcome treats. Also at Auros Vart 4. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA Vilniaus Gastronomas G-3, Gynj 14, tel. (+370) 687 114 20. A great selection of predominantly Italian goodies from tinned specialities to meat and cheese plus cakes, chocolate and even cigarettes. The upstairs restaurant serves dishes based on the philosophy of the shop. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JAVW
699 321 35, www.manolietuviskinamai.lt. Started by two female interior designers, this fine shop specialises in gathering the most interesting work from local craftspeople working in ceramics, metal, textiles and general interior design. As well as selling items for interiors, they also provide a full interior design and decorating service. J Sauluva C-3, Pilies 21/12, tel. (+370) 5 240 44 30, www.sauluva.lt. A great choice for souvenir and holiday shopping featuring a very respectable collection of amber jewellery plus Lithuanian made handicrafts mostly made of wood and glass. Also at Literat 3. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JA Stiklo Paslaptis (World of Glass) C-3/4, Didioji 38, tel. (+370) 656 188 91, www.stiklopaslaptis.lt. An intriguing selection of decorative and functional Lithuanian glassware. The people who run this place also offer glassblowing workshops. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA
Mano Lietuviki Namai G-5, evenkos 16, tel. (+370)
Bareket H-3, Vasario 16-osios 16-2, tel. (+370) 5 212 30 87, www.ebareket.lt. Silver and gold melt together in fantastic medleys. If youre looking to propose, the Bareket people are also deep into the diamond business. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Jrats Akmenliai A-3, Pylimo 22d, tel. (+370) 5 262 02 79, www.juratesakmeneliai.lt. Why just buy jewellery when you can make your own? The concept here is all about importing a glittering array of beads and stuff from all over the world and allowing you to string them together to make whatever you please. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA Yurga B-3, Trak 16, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 56, www. yurga.lt. Hand-made jewellery inspired by themes from nature and formed from amber, iron, gold and silver. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
Jewellery
Gifts & Souvenirs
Textile works of Lithuanian artists, expressing Lithuanian culture through a modern context. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA Auros Vart Meno Galerija C-5, Auros Vart 12, tel. (+370) 699 099 51. One of the better gift and souvenir shops in an area dripping in mediocre ones, find a small selection of locally-produced folk arts and crafts including some really lovely paper cuttings, intricate lacework, paintings and more besides. As if this wasnt enough, the bright sparks who run the place also offer light refreshments and ice-cream complete with summer outdoor seating. Magic. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. JA Gintraka C-3, Pilies 32, tel. (+370) 612 405 01, www. ambershop.lt. Amber, trinkets, knick-knacks, souvenirs and a delightful array of miscellaneous bits and bobs. Also at Auros Vart 13, Auros Vart 4, Pilies 23, Pilies 30, Pilies 9, Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JA Linen & Amber Studio C-4, Stikli 3, tel. (+370) 5 261 02 13, www.lgstudija.lt. One of the best places to buy linen and amber. They have a great selection, and the girls who work here are really helpful. Also at Didioji 10, Didioji 11, Pilies 7, Pilies 10. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JA Lino Namai C-3, Pilies 38, tel. (+370) 5 212 23 22, www. siulas.lt. Linen, the fabric that really breathes, is available for just about any part of the body or home. One of the citys top shops. Also at Universiteto 10, Vilniaus 12. QOpen 10:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA
Aukso Avis C-3, Pilies 38, tel. (+370) 5 261 04 21.
Julia Janus C-3, Stikli 7, tel. (+370) 212 94 94, www. juliajanus.com. Surplus to the Lithuanian designer Julijas haute couture is a range of off-the-peg clothing for women of all shapes and sizes available at reasonable prices. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA Julija Fashion House C-3, Stikli 7, tel. (+370) 618 059 09, www.julija.lt. Applying a soft touch with stunning effect, Julija is the sort of designer whod like to get to know you before you get dressed. Not only can she design your personal wardrobe, but your whole house too. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA Lino Kopos H-3, Krokuvos 6, tel. (+370) 5 275 12 00, www.linokopos.lt. The name means linen dunes, which sounds like a laundry nightmare, but is actually a fair reflection of the range and beauty of creations made exclusively from this versatile natural fibre. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Ramuns Piekautaits Mados Namai C-4, Didioji 20, tel. (+370) 5 231 22 70, www.ramunepiekautaite. com. Put elegance and confidence in a blender, add a hint of daring and/or fruity nonsense and press the puree button. Or just pop along here to see the results, courtesy of another internationally successful local designer. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. JA Zoraza C-3, Stikli 9, tel. (+370) 687 517 31, www. zoraza.com. Bags, boots, shoes, furry things, shiny things, florid frocks, and a glitzy upholstered toilet. The only thing we can find in common among all the creations tucked away in this bristling boutique, other than the fact that vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Lithuanian couture
Shopping
theyve tumbled from the presumably chaotic cognitions of designer Daiva Urbonaviit, is a certain wacky weirdness. Not for the straight-laced. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA small and rather natty boutique selling vintage clothing and accessories as well as a small range of new fashion. Find everything from old wedding dresses and sunglasses to shoes to ties to mirrors. Also at v. Ignoto 3/1. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. JA Komisas G-4, V. Kudirkos 1/7, tel. (+370) 671 253 46. Second-hand clothes, furniture, televisions, hi-fi equipment and more. An excellent little place to rummage around, they also buy stuff as well as sell it. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Lithuanian Design Block G-5, evenkos 16a, tel. (+370) 686 497 43, www.hotelofthings.lt. Located in an area rapidly making a name for itself as the place to come for expensive designer bits and pieces for the home, Lithuanian Design Block (Hotel of Things) is packed with goodies, from clothing to impossible-looking cardboard tables to the latest swanky offerings from the Lomo people. Q Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. A Ona D-4, v. Kazimiero 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 63, www.ona.lt. A multitude of things for the home, paintings, photographs, jewellery, paper cuts and a host of other similar articles, all made by small-scale artists, designers and producers in Lithuania. Promoting ecologically-friendly products and worthy of much over-needed applause, if that isnt enough you can buy everything online and three per cent of the money you spend goes to a charity of your choice. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Pylones H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 631 333 39. Named after the French word for the large metal structures that support electricity cables on the ground that they confess to being rather fond of, at first glance this quirky little shop appears to be packed full of classic Japanese goods but is in fact, as the name sort of implies, French. Started in 1985 in Paris, Pylones makes an alarming range of equally bizarre-looking household items from wallets to bottle openers to lamps, all made, or rather all covered with, outrageously coloured rubber. If, like us, you find yourself getting a little tired of the greyness of the city, a trip to the north of the city for a look inside here is recommended. Although not exactly cheap, the stuff for sale is at least mostly affordable. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A
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De avu C-4, Saviiaus 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 15 56. A
Fototechnika G-5, Smolensko 10a, tel. (+370) 5 279 15 45, www.fototechnika.lt. Although this is arguably the best photography shop in Vilnius if not the country, dont go getting too excited. Although they stock an impressive range (for local standards) of cameras, accessories, film stock, lighting, paper and chemicals alongside such hard-to-find things as cable releases, the selection remains rather small. The good news is that if they dont stock it they can order it fairly quickly. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Vilbra Foto G-5, vitrigailos 11b, tel. (+370) 5 239 41 30, www.vilbrafoto.lt. The best choice of dSLRs and digital compact cameras for the serious enthusiast in the city. Also, tripods, flashguns, lenses etc. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
C-3, Dominikon 16, tel. (+370) 5 262 64 76. Tucked away to the right of the main antiques shop is a man behind a desk selling a beautiful selection of old film cameras and other related equipment include Leicas and some Soviet classics. Worth a peep at least. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Photography
Vilniaus Antikvaro Centras Fotopreki Skyrius
IMuzika H-3, A. Gotauto 3/24, tel. (+370) 615 940 01, www.imuzika.lt. Lithuanias biggest label and one hip shop presenting jazz, classic, folk, indie, and experimental music. Orders accepted. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA Ragain C-2, Pilies 6, tel. (+370) 688 196 55, info@ ragaine.org, www.ragaine.org. Barely recognisable at the bottom of a small flight of steps, this tiny shop specialises in darkish-leaning underground music from the Baltic States as well as a few other more recognisable CDs from around the world. Also for sale is a range of pre-Christianstyle ethnic jewellery, badges, black ceramics, t-shirts and more. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J Thelonious C-3, Stikli 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 10 76, www.thelonious.lt. A superb choice of second-hand CDs and vinyl, mostly jazz but also a few other gems you wont find in a mainstream music shop. They also sell a range of old-fashioned hi-fi equipment for those who dont know their iPods from their elbows. Devoted to the cause, Thelonious now organise the occasional jazz concert. See the website for more information. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
Recorded music
Sport & Leisure
Bitinlis B-6, openo 12/26, tel. (+370) 5 233 05 70, www.bitinelis.lt. A glorious little shop selling a range of locally-produced honey plus everything you ever needed to start producing the stuff yourself. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
www.vdk.lt. A delightfully Uupisesque experience, this smart little shop accessed via a door down an alleyway specialises in miniature steam engines, musical boxes, animated tin toys, other fun things and a whole range of niche perfumes. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
Speciality shops
Boutique of Various Things (Visoki Daikt Krautuvl) D-3, Uupio 20, tel. (+370) 5 210 52 17,
59, www.dviratistau.lt. A well established national chain of shops selling quality bicycles of all types plus spares. Makers include Focus, Kalkhoff, Specialized and Wheeler. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Expedition H-3, eimyniki 5a, tel. (+370) 5 275 68 11, www.expedition.lt. A good selection of sports equipment and a limited range of clothing. Also at Pylimo 36 and J. Kubiliaus 18. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA Golf City G-4, Savanori 1 (Helios City, 2nd floor), tel. (+370) 615 161 61, www.golfcity.lt. There are two golf clubs in the Vilnius area (see www.capitals.lt and www. golfclub.lt for more) and this is the shop that serves them. Everything from clubs to tees to those ridiculous patterned trousers golfers love to wear. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A Laisvs Turas Laisvs 123, tel. (+370) 5 273 67 11, www.laisvesturas.lt. For lovers of the outdoor life, find everything from tents and camping gear in general to sports clothing to canoes and even barbecue equipment. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A Prosport uolyno 7, tel. (+370) 682 437 13, www. prosport.lt. Trainers, footballs, rugby balls, golf clubs, racquets, skis, swimming costumes and much much more. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Dviratis Tau G-4, vitrigailos 5, tel. (+370) 5 265 12
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Lifestyle directory
Beauty Institute B-3, Vokiei 28/17, tel. (+370) 5 262 91 87, www.sugihara.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat Figaro B-4, Vokiei 14, tel. (+370) 5 262 12 12,
08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA www.figaro.lt. Chopping locks here there and everywhere. Also at Gedimino 9, Gedimino 54, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), Jogailos 4. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA
Barbers & Beauty
Computer repair
Matrix G-5, Vytenio 10, tel. (+370) 5 213 45 74, www. matrix.lt. Hard drive recovery et al. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Currency exchange
Citadele B-6, Geleinkelio 6, tel. (+370) 5 213 54

54, www.keitykla.lt. Capable of changing just about any convertible currency as well as all Baltic denominations and Belarusian roubles. Q Open 24hrs. J
Franko C-3, Pilies 23, tel. (+370) 5 262 00 82, www.grozionamai. lt. Get a you thful sprucing-up in this freshly renovated salon right on Pilies. The bright-eyed, Englishspeaking staff will make your hair swell with style. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA Gatineau B-2, Totori 19, tel. (+370) 5 261 83 64,
Dress hire
www.lfs.lt. These people can rent you anything they have in stock from their wide range of silly costumes. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Kino Studija I-1, Kareivi 6, tel. (+370) 656 688 28,
www.haircut.lt. A very pleasant hairdressing, manicure, pedicure, make-up, massage, cosmetology salon with earl y hours and smiling English- and I talian-speaking staff. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA
06/(+370) 676 378 89, www.feminamobile.lt. Also at Pylimo 41. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Femina Mobile I-1, P. Lukio 17, tel. (+370) 5 270 04
Driving lessons
Dry cleaners & Launderettes
Rdnink 16, tel. (+370) 5 231 29 22/ (+370) 652 224 49, info@senamiesciosalonas.lt, www.senamiesciosalonas.lt. The Old Town Beauty Salon offers a superb selection of procedures and services for the benefit of both mind and body. Using a combination of natural, high quality ingredients and highly trained professional staff, among the other many things they provide are waxing procedures, massage, hair care, manicure and a lot more besides. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JW
Senamiesio Groio Salonas C-4,
tel. (+370) 5 264 91 64, www.jogle.lt. The full range of dry cleaning and laundry services. Also at Mindaugo 11 (Maxima), Ozo 25 (Akropolis), Konstitucijos 7a (Europa). QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Skalbiu Sau Saultekio 41, tel. (+370) 5 269 60 98, www.skalbiusau.lt. A good old-fashioned launderette that can also pick up and drop off your laundry if you cant be bothered to do it yourself. Also at ekins 26, Savanori 176, Liepkalnio 112. QOpen 10:00 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Jogl G-3, J. Jasinskio 16 (entrance from A. Gotauto),
Genealogy
Information Bureau Tel. (+370) 699 599 88, www.
Vis Unita H-3, Konstitucijos 20, tel. (+370) 5 231 49 11, w w w.visunita.lt. Pamperin g from h ead to toe, including hairdressing, manicure and cosmetology. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. JA
Cable television
The companies listed below provide cable television services to different parts of the city. Ask your landlord/lady or a local friend about which one is available in your area. They also all provide broadband internet.
Lithuanian Central Registry Archive (Istorijos Archyvo Skyrius) G-3, K. Kalinausko 21, tel. (+370)
5 233 78 46, www.archyvai.lt. The entire Lithuanian civil registr y archives from 1940 to the present day, including records of all births, deaths and marriages. In order to use this service, location and approximate date are essential. Q Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. (+370) 5 247 78 11, www.archyvai.lt/lt/lcva.html. When the Nazis invaded Lithuania, one of their first tasks was to prepare an extensive set of records of everyone living in the country, proving that every cloud, no matter how dark and evil it is, does indeed have a silver lining. Those looking to trace people living in Lithuania during the period of 19411942 should consult this archive. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
lithuaniavisits.com. Former journalist and six times European Ham Radio Operator champion, Vilius Vaseikis provides a unique and fascinating service arranging tours of Lithuania for people of Lithuanian descent. Doing everything from helping to locate lost relatives to providing a translator, Vilius is also the man to speak to if youre thinking of relocating to Lithuania or are simply looking to rent an apartment.
Closed Sun. Vinita S. Staneviiaus 21a, tel. (+370) 5 230 13 01, www.vinita.lt. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 08:00 19:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
C Gates G-2, Ukmergs 120, tel. (+370) 5 210 75 75, www.cgates.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Lithuanian Central State Archive (Lietuvos Centrinis Valstybs Archyvas) O. Milaiaus 21, tel.
Cleaning services
DD Projects Laisvs 77-323, tel. (+370) 683 461 41. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Open 24hrs.
lifestyle directory
Lithuanian State Historical Archives (Lietuvos Valstybs Istorijos Archyvas) F-5, Gerosios Vilties
10, tel. (+370) 5 213 74 82, www.archyvai.lt. The same as the Lithuanian Central Registry Archive (see above), only these archives are from the church registry up until 1940. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. Registry (Gyventoj Registro Tarnyba) G-4, Vivulskio 4a, tel. (+370) 5 271 77 88, www.gyvreg.lt. If you have a name and need an address these people will help you locate the person in question (the addition of a town helps speed things up no end), although non-Lithuanians be warned that if the person in question is located they are first asked if they actually want to be found before the address is given. The sensible thing for non-nationals to do is to use this service with a Lithuanian intermediary. QOpen 07:30 - 17:00, Fri 07:30 - 15:15. Closed Sat, Sun.
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International schools
American International School of Vilnius I-5,
Sat, Sun. Sauls Gojus umsko plentas 86, Grigaiiai, tel. (+370) 5 248 59 88, www.saulesgojus.lt. A good few kilometres east of the city, this recommended kindergarden provides care and pre-school education to boys and girls from three upwards in either Lithuanian/English or Lithuanian/German. Reports from parents say that the standard of care is exceptionally high and that the country setting is delightful. A bus ferries everyone from the city and back again. Theyve also now opened an accompanying primary school. QOpen 07:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Vilnius International School D-3, Rus 3, tel. (+370) 5 276 15 64, www.vischool.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Vilnius Montessori Pre-School Naujakuri 29, tel. (+370) 5 270 08 80/(+370) 606 382 69, www.vms.lt. Enrolment is throughout the year. Places are limited. QOpen 07:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
QOpen 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J French International School J-2, ilo 13, tel. (+370) 5 276 91 32, www.efv.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed
Subaiaus 41, tel. (+370) 5 212 10 31, www.aisv.lt.
LGBT
The websites at www.gayline.lt and www.gay.lt have information about gay and lesbian organisations, events and accommodation in Lithuania, plus community news, chat rooms and personal ads. Lithuania remains stuck in the Stone Age concerning its attitude towards gay and lesbians, including in the capital. Be very, very careful.
Key cut
Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J Rakt Centras B-5, Pylimo 37, tel. (+370) 618 888 11. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 24hrs emergency. J
Raktin D-2, B. Radvilaits 7, tel. (+370) 698 334 13, www.raktine.lt. Also at Pylimo 49. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Language courses
687 494 22, www.ltmrs.lt/jp. Various levels of Lithuanian language instruction on an individual or group basis. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:30. Closed Sun. J dimino 26, tel. (+370) 5 231 32 39, www.lingualit.lt. Learn Lithuanian with courses of varying length suitable for everyone from short-term visitors to those who wish to make a life here. Two-week summer and winter courses are also available and include plenty of sightseeing and cultural immersion. Prices are competitive compared to courses offered by the universities. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Jaunimo Perspektyva A-2, Vilniaus 39, tel. (+370)
Martynas Mavydas Lithuanian National Library (Lietuvos Nacionalin Martyno Mavydo Biblioteka) G-3, Gedimino 51 (Entrance from A. Tumno), tel. (+370) 5 249 70 28, www.lnb.lt. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
CAC Reading Ro om (MC Skaitykla) C-4, Vokiei 2 (Contemporary Art Centre), tel. (+370) 5 260 89 60, www.cac.lt. Archives of information on contemporar y ar t. Dynamic librar y with an extensive collection of exhibitions catalogues, theoretical books, periodicals, videotapes and CDs. Q Open 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Libraries
Lingua Lituanica A-1, Ge-
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April - July 2013
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Lifestyle directory
Modus A-6, Kauno 6, tel. (+370) 5 233 42 38, www. modus.lt. A little out of the centre but worth it because they only charge 80Lt to change Asta to Pasta. They claim they will tattoo anything anywhere for the right price, so take your granny along and give them a challenge. They have previously slapped tatts on little toes and bald heads. They also do piercing. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J Paradiz B-2, Totori 15, tel. (+370) 688 589 90, www. paradize.lt. For 50 - 150Lt you can get a matchbox, or any similarly sized design, tattooed almost anywhere. (There are body parts that they wont fill with ink, but they wouldnt tell us which ones.) Somewhat worryingly, they couldnt remember the strangest tattoo theyve ever been asked to do. They will also poke holes in you. Q By appointment only. J
Vets & Pets
6/21, tel. (+370) 699 612 65, www.veterinaras.lt. House calls can be arranged. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. JA
Senamiesio Veterinarijos Klinika B-2/3, Liejyklos
52, info@procentras.lt, www.procentras.lt. The only truly pro shop in town can provide index prints and rush all manner of film formats through in an hour if you ask them nicely, although the usual turnaround is more usually a day. Transparency films get done in batches, and rather annoyingly can take up to a month to process. They can also print and mount images and scan negatives up to impressively large sizes. Its just a shame they dont open during the weekends. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
ProCentras G-4, Savanori 22, tel. (+370) 5 213 27
Photographic services
Avalyns Taisykla B-4, Labdari 1/22, tel. (+370) 5 262 88 63. Heels stuck back on in 15 minutes. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J
Shoe repair
Tattoos & Piercing

If you wake up in a strange place with some strange letters tattooed onto a strange part of your anatomy, youve probably been to one of these venues: 40 64, www.tattoo.lt. Prices start from around 50Lt, but changing the name of a former lover into an anchor and chain usually involves a bit of work and costs more. Especially if youre trying to remove a Lithuanian surname. Piercing is offered, but they wont touch your naughty bits. Unless youre very sexy. They have previously refused to tattoo tongues, but did once tattoo someones foot. They limped home. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J
Amber Massage SPA C-5, Auros Vart 15, tel. (+370) 5 261 49 23, www.ambermassage.lt. The brainchild of a lady from Israel, this strange and rather beguiling addition to the citys growing wellness community provides a range of massages using amber, from little rods of it to bags of crushed amber to an entire mini beach of the stuff that you lie on whilst a young lady walks on top of you. Theres a sauna too, and the whole thing has been designed to re-energise owning to ambers peculiar proclivity to generate small amounts of electricity. Note that the opening hours listed here are a guideline. Appointments can be made outside of office hours. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. JA Ayurvedic SPA Centre Shanti D-5, Subaiaus 17, tel. (+370) 606 755 57, www.ajurveda.lt. Enjoy a steam sauna, a copper rose bath, massage for two, tea ceremony or ayurvedic relaxing massage and peeling. They speak English and also offer gift vouchers. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. JA Azia Spa B-4, v. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370) 5 244 46 46, info@aziaspa.lt, www.aziaspa.lt. A range of Eastern-style massages with a Buddhist philosophy, plus spa treatments, body scrubs, aromatherapy and more. Thai masseurs on hand for the ultimate authentic experience. Special massages for couples also available. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. JA East Island Exotic C-4, Didioji 40/2, tel. (+370) 5 212 55 99, www.eastisland.lt. Spice up your life with a range of massages including several delivered with the aid of stones, honey and even chocolate. They also offer their so-called exciting erotic all body massage alongside a less risqu range of facials, body masks and scrubs. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. J
Wellness
Drakono enklas B-3, Vilniaus 45, tel. (+370) 5 261
Special interest groups

I n t e r n a t i o n a l W o m e n s A s s o c i a t i o n
Tel. (+370) 685 212 43, iwavilnius@gmail.com, www.iwavilnius.com. Vilnius long established International Womens Association welcomes women from all cultural backgrounds living in the Lithuanian capital. As well as organising such traditional social events as coffee mornings, the IWA runs a playgroup and is involved in a number of charitable activities.
lifestyle directory
Exotic Spa Morocco B-4, v. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 12 15, spa@exoticspa.lt, www.exoticspa.lt. A wide range of massages and spa procedures, spa treatment packages for couples and a few saucy options for gentlemen, all inside an atmospheric Old Town cellar. See the website for a full list of services. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. J Idzumi Spa I-2, Sporto 12, tel. (+370) 5 247 24 70, www. idzumi.lt. An Asian atmosphere permeates and soothes, as do all the treatments and services including spa, sauna, massage, cosmetics, solarium and more. Its a fresh approach which will leave you feeling very alive and refreshed. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. A Nuad Thai C-4, Didioji 20/1, tel. (+370) 5 212 55 33, www.nuadthai.lt. Thai massage options from top to toe. They even cater for babies and pregnant women. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. J Spa Centre East Island G-3, Konstitucijos 26 (Forum Palace 1st floor), tel. (+370) 5 272 22 27, www. east-island.lt. One of the citys largest spas, services here include aromatic bathtubs, a wide range of Thai massages, facials etc. and a wealth of cosmetic procedures to make you feel reborn. The centre comes complete with an Oriental ambience including representations of Buddha on the wall and a tranquil Eastern soundtrack. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A
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BNS A-2, Jogailos 9/1, tel. (+370) 5 205 85 01, www. bns.lt. J
News agencies Online news
lithuaniatribune.com, www.lithuaniatribune.com. A recommended site featuring news about Lithuania on subjects including politics, economics and international relations. Information is gathered from other news sources, academia and the political world and translated into English. Newz.lt info@newz.lt, newz.lt. An independent news portal in English, bringing together miscellaneous sources of news and current affairs and serving them on one easily digestible page. Regularly updated around the clock.
Lithuania Tribune Tel. (+370) 614 312 15, editor@
Baltic Times B-5, Raugyklos 15-305, tel. (+370) 5 262 48 92, www.baltictimes.com. A weekly newspaper in English with news about all three Baltic states. Published every Friday and available for sale in some bookshops as well as for free in a number of hotels. J In Your Pocket D-2, Bernardin 9-4, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76, www.inyourpocket.com. Europes leading provider of locally produced urban information in print, online, video, PDF and now on the iPhone. Practical information from Belfast to Moscow, Tallinn to Tirana. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Press Express M. Sleeviiaus 7, tel. (+370) 5 230 44 02, www.pressexpress.lt. Order foreign magazines and newspapers. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Print media
BBC World Ser vice 95.5FM, w w w.bbc.co.uk/ worldservice. Start FM 94.2FM. A campus radio station run by students from Vilnius University, Start FM is the only non-commercial radio station currently operating in the capital. The music policy is to concentrate and highlight a wealth of home-grown music. vilnius.inyourpocket.com April - July 2013
Radio
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Health
All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy
Online
Dentists
Dentists in Vilnius are of a high quality and relatively inexpensive by Western standards. The following dentists all have English-speaking staff.
9-9, tel. (+370) 5 261 25 12, mackeviciai@mail.lt, www.dentaltravel. lt. A team of young dental professionals providing an extensive range of dental services. As well as offering quality, English-speaking services to resident foreigners, they also specialise in dental procedures for Westerns at considerably lower prices. Laser-whitening 1,000Lt, implant 2,000 - 3,000Lt/ tooth, prosthetic-CAM-DAM CEREC 3 system 800 -1,500Lt, treatment with magnification (microscope and lens). Also at Nemenins 54a (Baltic-American Clinic), K. Dineikos 1, Druskininkai (SPA Vilnius). QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
A ir B Mackevii Odontologijos Klinika B-2, L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus
Mobile
Dr. Br. Sidaraviius A-3, Klaipdos 2/14-3, tel. (+370) 5 262 97 60. Check-up 30 - 120Lt, cleaning 250Lt, whitening 117Lt/tooth, filling 160 - 600Lt, implant from 6,000Lt/tooth. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Gidenta A-1, A.Vienuolio 14-3, tel. (+370) 5 219 77 99, www.gidenta.lt. Check-up 20Lt, cleaning 5 - 6Lt / tooth, laser - whitening 780Lt, filling 80 - 200Lt, extraction 50 - 400Lt, implant 1,800 - 2,200Lt/tooth. QOpen 09:00 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA Odontika X-3, Krivi 5, tel. (+370) 5 215 31 35, www.odontika.com. Check-up 20Lt, cleaning 150Lt, laser-whitening 25Lt/tooth, filling 100 - 160Lt, extraction 80 - 400Lt, implant 1,650Lt/tooth. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Odontologijos Klinika C-3, Universiteto 2/18, tel. (+370) 5 231 29 52, www.odontologijosklinika.lt. Check-up 40 50Lt, cleaning 6Lt/tooth, laser - whitening, 1,000Lt, filling 150 - 300Lt, extraction 150 - 400Lt, implant 4,000 - 5,000Lt/tooth. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA Stomatologijos Gydykla B-3, Dominikon 3-45, tel. (+370) 5 262 84 82. Check-up 80Lt, cleaning 5-7Lt/ tooth, laser - whitening 100 - 1,000Lt/tooth, filling 100 - 200Lt, extraction 100-500Lt, implant 2,000 - 3,500Lt/tooth. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
HIV & AIDS
Print
14d, tel. (+370) 5 230 01 25, fax (+370) 5 276 79 68, www.ulac.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
Communicable Diseases & AIDS Centr e (Ukreiamj Lig ir AIDS Centras) Nugaltoj
Hospitals
Vilnius University Hospital (Respublikin Vilniaus Universitetin Ligonin) iltnami 29, tel. (+370) 5 216 90 69, www.rvul.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 19:00. 24hrs.
Europes biggest publisher of locally produced city guides vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Medical services
Baltic-American Clinic Nemenins 54a, tel. (+370) 5
234 20 20/(+370) 698 526 55, www.bak.lt. Highly recommended modern professional health care and diagnostics, now bigger and better than ever. Q Open 24hrs. A
health
Fertility Centre D-4, Maironio 25-22, tel. (+370) 5 261 42 26, www.vaisingumocentras.lt. Highly recommended modern fertility treatments. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA Fertility Clinic Laisvs 64a, tel. (+370) 656 444 40, www.vaisingumas.lt. Full-service gynaecologist. Fertility treatments, obstetrics and modern therapies for menopause. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Kardiolita Laisvs 64a, tel. (+370) 5 239 05 00, www. kardiolita.lt. Privately-run general hospital. Broad range of medical services. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Fri 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
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Grybo 32a, tel. (+370) 5 270 91 20, www.medcentras. lt. Excellent staff and facilities for everything from regular check-ups to major surgery, with all the lab tests, scans and caring guidance along the way. English speaking doctors. 24-hour urgent surgery services. QOpen 06:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Medical Diagnostic and Treatment Centre (Medicinos Diagnostikos ir Gydymo Centras) J-1, V.
Clinics B-2, Gedimino 1a-19, tel. (+370) 684 331 00 (appointments). Excellent Englishspeaking doctor for general and family health located in the city centre opposite the Cathedral. High quality care. QOpen 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
Medicine General Private
Northway Medical Center I-1, S. ukausko 19, tel. (+370) 5 264 44 66, www.nmc.lt. General practitioners and specialists in cardiology, gynaecology, otorhinolaryngology and more. There are also rehabilitation, health and beauty centre services. QOpen 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Novana H-4, Basanaviiaus 18, tel. (+370) 686 122 43, www.novana.lt. Laser-related aesthetic procedures including permanent hair removal with IPL, skin pigmentation treatment, lymph draining massage and much more. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J
Opticians
Optometrijos Centras B-4, Vokiei 26, tel. (+370) QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
5 262 75 91, www.optometrija.lt. Also at Gedimino 9. JA Rega C-3, Pilies 32, tel. (+370) 5 262 00 73, www. rega.lt. Also at Gedimino 49a/2. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA Vision Express F/G-2, Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), tel. (+370) 5 262 26 69, www.visionexpress.lt. Also at A. Vienuolio 14, Gedimino 3a, Ozo 18 (Ozas). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JA
Skin & Laser Surgery Center G-4, M. K. iurlionio 19/36-30, tel. (+370) 5 264 73 04, w w w.lazerinechirurgija.lt. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
15:00. Closed Sun. JA
eimos Medicinos Centras (Family Medical Centre) A-3, Pylimo 9, tel. (+370) 5 260 86 84, www. seimosgydytojas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
Pharmacies
24hrs. A
Benu I-1, irmn 64, tel. (+370) 5 278 89 91/ (+370) 687 599 87, www.seimosvaistine.lt. Q Open
E-2, . Sugiharos 3, tel. (+370) 5 270 57 10, www. sugihara.lt. A highly trained team of consulting doctors will come to the rescue if your beauty is slipping away. You can also indulge yourself with a massage or various other forms of pampering. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
Sugihara Beauty Therapy & Surgery Clinic
Health smarts
Condoms Prezervatyvai Ibuprofen Ibuprofenas Ouch! Ai! Tampons Tamponai
Gedimino Vaistin A-1, Gedimino 27, tel. (+370) 5 261 01 35. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. JA Operos Vaistin A-1, A. Vienuolio 6-21, tel. (+370) 5 212 61 16. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA Universiteto Vaistin C-3, Universiteto 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 12 19. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA Vokiei Vaistin C-4, Didioji 13, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 32. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JA
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Sport & Leisure

As tempting as it may be to just sit around in cafs and bars enjoying the city, there might be occasions when you might want to actually do something. Whether its relaxation or action, weve hand-picked a bunch of options and stuffed our pages with stuff to do. For information about cycling in Vilnius, click here. Uupio Kavin where its pretty much impossible to not stop off at and swallow a beer. The same company also has a small country cottage with a sauna and outdoor hot tub not far from the city centre.
On wheels
Active leisure
Force One Tel. (+370) 5 233 98 07, info@forceone.lt, Labas Nuotyki Parkas (Labas Adventure Park)
www.forceone.lt. Extreme, outdoorsy and team-building type activities. Mostly caters to corporate clients.
567 04, www.kartodromas.lt. This go-cart track offers speed, mayhem, danger, so its just like the rest of Lithuanias road network, but with smaller cars and more fun. QOpen 13:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
Plytins Kartodromas Plytins 27, tel. (+370) 699
Lizdeikos, tel. (+370) 602 323 66, www.labasnuotykiuparkas.lt. Not far from the city centre on the eastern shore of the Neris river, Labas Nuotyki Parkas offers over 1.5km of tracks up in the trees aimed at everyone from children to beginners to professional Tarzans. Each track comes with zip-lines for aerial flights, plus theres a 16m swing for the completely insane and an aerial runway across the river. The place is hidden from the road and there are no signposts at all. A map on their website partially solves the mystery. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Teniso Pasaulis E-1, uolyno 7, tel. (+370) 5 246 08 36, www.sebarena.lt. 40 - 100Lt/hour depending on when you want to play. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. A
Racquet sports
Forum Spor ts Club G-2, Konstitucijos 26, tel. (+370) 5 210 31 49, w w w.forumf itness.lt. G ym, aerobics, 25m pool, saunas, modern equipment and the option of a personal trainer to shout at you while you use it. Q Open 06:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. AFDC Impuls Plus I-1, Kareivi 14, tel. (+370) 615 400 72, www.impuls.lt. Strength and cardiovascular workout gear, aerobics, sauna, spa, pool and waterslide. Also at L. Asanaviits 15, Savanori 28, Fabijoniki 97a. Q Open 06:30 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 21:00. ADC Stimulus B-2, Labdari 8, tel. (+370) 607 435 55, info@stimulus.lt, www.stimulus.lt. Opened in 2009 and the first of its kind in the country, Stimulus is an almost exclusively women-only venue (exceptions are few and far between and males generally only ever visit on invitation) offering a wide range of regimes, therapies, courses and other such things aimed at achieving a strong and healthy body and mind combined with inner balance for a harmonious lifestyle. Focusing on Callanetics but also offering Pilates, yoga, balance training, modern dance exercises, exercises for expectant mothers and a host of other things, all overseen by professionals and the vast majority of it available in English. Theres also classes, lectures and workshops featuring everything from fractal painting, to making mosaics to gongs. Very nice people indeed, the Stimulus people have two locations in Vilnius in Old Town and the new business district as well as one more in Panevys. Also at Konstitucijos 6. PJW
Fitness & Gyms
Radisson Blu Astorija C-4, Didioji 35/2, tel. (+370) 5 212 01 10, fax (+370) 5 212 17 62, sales.vilnius@ radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius. A vast(ish) and gleaming facility tucked away under one of the citys finest hotels. Sauna, pool, spa bath and some fitness kit are all present. You can watch people swimming while youre on the treadmill. And then join them. JA The Narutis Hotel - Preferred Boutique C-3, Pilies 24, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, fax (+370) 5 262 28 82, info@narutis.com, www.narutis.com. Theres a sauna, steam room and a modest pool with spa bath. And a nice little fountain. A hidden treat on the main tourist promenade of Old Town. JA
Saunas
Sostins Stalo Teniso Klubas I-1, Lakn 24, tel. (+370) 654 020 59, www.vilniaus-stalo-tenisas.lt. A large, modern table tennis club complete with lots of tables, good shower facilities and the option of coaching or just playing for pleasure.Check the website for more information about the full range of their activities. QOpen 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. P
Table tennis
Water sports
Kayaking
Baidari Nuoma www.activetourism.lt. Seriously rec-
ommended if youre in town on a warm or a hot day and you dont mind getting wet, these people offer a wide range of kayaking options for individuals and groups of up to 50 people. Ranging from leisurely paddles through the city centre at night to the chance to play kayak polo, we definitely suggest you look into doing their Extreme Vilnel, which offers long (fourhour) and short (two-hour) adventures involving throwing yourself down the innocent-looking Vilnel river (watch out for the fallen tree trunks and rapids) on an expensive piece of plastic through some gorgeous nature before hitting the city centre. The route incidentally goes directly past the excellent
5 240 70 15, www.scubadiving.lt. A PADI dive centre, with English-speaking staff, who can arrange dives in the lakes around Trakai. Scuba gear available for hire. QOpen 10:00 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Lietuvos Vaik ir Jaunimo Centras G-2, Konstitucijos 25, tel. (+370) 5 273 33 33, www.lvjc.lt. The pool is only 25m long but its clean as a whistle and, despite being in a childrens and youth centre, its not just for kiddies. A Vichy Aqua Park H-1, Ozo 14c, tel. 118, www. vandensparkas.lt. A big explosion of aquatic fun with a pleasantly up-lifting Polynesian theme throughout. There are dizzying water slides, a pretend beach with real waves, oodles of pools of various types (one with a bar) and all sorts of saunas and spa baths. Out in the northern suburbs, the taxi fares still worth it, or take bus N53 if youre feeling cheap. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. TAEKDC
Diugonis (Scuba-diving) J. Matulaiio 7-38, tel. (+370)
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Business directory
Banks
SEB Bankas C-4, Vokiei 9, tel. 1528.
60.
Latvia F-4, M. K. iurlionio 76, tel. (+370) 5 213 12 Malta (Consulate) C-5, Subaiaus 2, tel. (+370) 5 Moldova F-2, Miglos 61a, tel. (+370) 5 260 79 14. Netherlands I-3, T. Kosciukos 36, tel. (+370) 5 210
251 44 91. 46 20.
American Chamber of Commerce H-3, Konstitucijos 7, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 81.

tel. (+370) 5 261 21 02. (+370) 5 269 00 62. (+370) 671 811 57.
Business connections
Association of Lithuanian Chambers of Commerce, Industry & Crafts G-3, Vaingtono 1/63a, British Chamber of Commerce C-3, Didioji 5, tel. European Business Network P.O. Box 1125, tel. Invest Lithuania (Investuok Lietuvoje) A-2, JogaiVilnius Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Crafts
los 4, tel. (+370) 5 262 74 38.
G/H-5, Algirdo 31, tel. (+370) 5 213 55 50.
Conference organisers
5 212 00 03.
261 00 00. Philippines (Consulate) A-2, Jogailos 4 (A corps), tel. (+370) 5 212 00 33. Poland J-2, Smlio 22a, tel. (+370) 5 270 90 01. Romania G-4, A. Vivulskio 19, tel. (+370) 5 231 05 57. Russia F-3, Latvi 53/54, tel. (+370) 5 272 17 63. Spain G-4, Algirdo 4, tel. (+370) 5 231 39 61. Sweden C-4, Didioji 16, tel. (+370) 5 268 50 10. Turkey C-4, Didioji 37, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 70. UK J-3, Antakalnio 2, tel. (+370) 5 246 29 00. Ukraine A-3, Teatro 4, tel. (+370) 5 233 07 82. USA G-4, Akmen 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 55 00. Vatican I-3, T. Kosciukos 28, tel. (+370) 5 212 36 96.
Norway A-3, K. Kalinausko 24 (3rd floor), tel. (+370) 5
AIM Group Baltic F-3, Kstuio 59/27, tel. (+370) Litexpo (Lietuvos Parod ir Kongres centras Litexpo) E-5, Laisvs 5, tel. (+370) 5 268 68 12.
Freight forwarding
67 50.
DPD Lietuva D-6, Liepkalnio 180, tel. (+370) 5 210
Consumer rights
European Consumer Centre (Europos Vartotoj Centras) B-2, Odmini 12, tel. (+370) 5 265 03 68.
Interpreters
balTICK Language Services D-2, Bernardin 9-4,

tel. (+370) 5 212 29 24.
European Commission
5 231 31 91.
European Commission B-1, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) European Commission Information Centre B-1,
Legal & Financial services

(+370) 5 262 05 34, fax (+370) 5 262 05 35, info@ fscenter.lt, www.fscenter.lt. Accounting services. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 5 231 31 83.
Financial Services Center B-1, . Liauksmino 3, tel.
Foreign representations
212 33 69. Austria C-3, Gaono 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 05 80. Azerbaijan G-3, Gedimino 35, tel. (+370) 5 219 56 01. Belarus G-4, Muitins 41, tel. (+370) 5 213 22 55. Belgium A-3, K. Kalinausko 2b, tel. (+370) 5 266 08 20. Canada A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 249 09 50. China H-5, Algirdo 36, tel. (+370) 5 216 28 62. Czech Republic F-4, Biruts 16, tel. (+370) 5 266 10 54. Denmark I-3, T. Kosciukos 36, tel. (+370) 5 264 87 60. Estonia F-3, A. Mickeviiaus 4a, tel. (+370) 5 278 02 00. Finland G-4, K. Kalinausko 24, tel. (+370) 5 266 80 10. France C-3, varco 1, tel. (+370) 5 219 96 00. Georgia F-3, D. Pokos 13, tel. (+370) 5 273 69 59. Germany G-4, Z. Sierakausko 24, tel. (+370) 5 210 64 00. Greece C-4, Didioji 33/2, tel. (+370) 5 261 05 26. Hungary A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 38. Iceland (Consulate) F-5, K. Konarskio 28a, tel. (+370) 5 215 05 75. Ireland C-2, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 94 60. Italy G-4, Vytauto 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 06 20. Japan F-4, M. K. iurlionio 82b, tel. (+370) 5 231 04 62. Kazakhstan F-3, Biruts 20a/35, tel. (+370) 5 212 21 23.
Armenia F-3, Lenktoji 17, tel. (+370) 5 207 50 40. Australia (Consulate) A-2, Vilniaus 23, tel. (+370) 5
Tilto 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 35 90, fax (+370) 5 279 15 14, vilnius@roedl.pro, www.roedl.lt. A multidisciplinary professional services firm with 83 offices in some 37 countries providing legal, tax, accounting and audit services for international corporate clients and major local businesses. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Rdl & Partner B-1,
Lithuanian officials
(+370) 5 266 37 11.
Department of Customs (Muitins Departamen tas) H-3, A. Jakto 1/25, tel. (+370) 5 261 30 27. Government (LR Vyriausyb) B-1, Gedimino 11, tel. Ministry of Foreign Affairs (LR Usienio Reikal Ministerija) G-3, J. Tumo-Vaiganto 2, tel. (+370) 5 Municipality (Savivaldyb) B-1, Konstitucijos 3, tel. Parliament (LR Seimas) G-3, Gedimino 53, tel. Presidents Office (LR Prezidento Rmai) C-2/3,
S. Daukanto 3, tel. (+370) 706 641 54. (+370) 5 211 20 00.
236 24 44.
(+370) 5 239 60 60.
Street register
93
All of the venues in this guidebook marked with an Old Town symbol (J) are featured as such because even if theyre not in Old Town per se, they are at least on the map opposite which we call Old Town. Confused? Dont be. Aguon A. Jakto Alkns Arkli Arsenalo A. Smetonos A. Strazdelio A. Stulginskio Amenos Augustijon Auktaii Auros Vart A. Volano Bazilijon Beatris Benediktini Bernardin Bokto B. Radvilaits Didioji Dominikon Dysnos A-4/6 A-1 D-6 C-4/5 C/D-1 A-1/2 D-5 A-2/1 B-4 C-4 D-4 C-5/6 D-3 C/D-5 A1 B-3 C-2/D-3 C-3/D-5 C/D-2 C-3/4 B/C-3 B-4
Etmon C-4 Gaono C-3 Gedimino A-1/D-2 Geleinkelio C-6 Gli B-5 Islandijos A-2 Iganytojo C/D-3 J. Basanaviiaus A-3/4 J. Jablonskio A-5/6 J. Lelevelio A/B-1 Jogailos A-1/2 Karmelit C-4/5 Katon A1 Kauno A/B-6 Kdaini A/B-4 K. Griniaus A-2 K. Kalinausko A-3 Klaipdos A/B-3 Kruop B-5 K. Sirvydo B-1 K. kirpos D-1/2 Kdr D-4 K. Vanaglio D-5 Labdari B-2 Lap C-5/6 Latako C/D-3 Liejyklos B-2/3 Liepkalnio D-6 Ligonins B-4/5 Literat C/D-3 Lydos B-4 L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus B/C-2
M. Antokolskio Maironio Maln M. Daukos Msini Mindaugo Naruio Naugarduko Odmini Palangos Pamnkalnio Pasao Paupio Pelesos Pilies Plaioji Prancikon Punsko Pylimo Radvil Raugyklos Roi Rus Rdnink Saviiaus Sein Sod S. Skapo Stikli Stoties Subaiaus altini ermukni
C-3/4 D-2/4 D-3 D-5 B-5/C-4 A-4/6 D-6 A-4/5 B-2 A-3 A-2 C-5 D-3 C/D-6 C-2/3 B-5 B-3/4 A-6 A-2/C-6 B-1 A-6/B-5 A-3/2 C/D-3 B-5/C-4 C-4 B/C-6 B-5/6 C-2 C-3/4 B-6 C/D-5 A/B-5 A1
iauli iltadario varco ventaragio v. Dvasios v. Ignoto v. Jono v. Kazimiero v. Mikalojaus v. Mykolo v. Stepono Teatro Tilto Totori Trak Turgeli T. Vrublevskio Universiteto Uupio Vienuolio Vilniaus Vingri Vis ventj Vokiei V. openo emaitijos iuproni . Liauksmino yd ygimant
B-4 D-2 C-3 C-2 D-5 B-3 C-3 C/D-4 B-4 C/D-3 A-6/B-5 A-3 B-1/C-2 B-2/3 A-4/B-3 D-6 C-1 C-2/3 D-3 A1 B-1/3 A/B-4 B/C-5 B-3/C-4 B-6 B-4 D-5 B-1/C-2 B-4/C-3 B/C-1
April - July 2013
Europos Vilnius City K O aikt N ST IT U CMunicipality IJ O S P R.

Ecotel Vilnius
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Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva
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Best Western Vilnius
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Hotel Tilto
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Government of the Republic of Lithuania

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KARALIAUS MINDAUGO T.
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Trij kryi kalnas

K.
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R.
.
TIL TO G.
RP
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G.
VILNIAUS G.
A. SM ET ON OS
NL HU CA PH
Novotel Vilnius Centre
Ambassador
GEDIM INO P IE R.
Odmini skveras
Cathedral-Basilica
ventaragio slnis
MI NI
NK
OD
.
JOG AIL
PA
G.
Amberton Hotel
AU
TOTORI G.
Nes Pramog Bankas Guest House
OS G .
TH
AL
SG
I AU
2
V I CE
NI
Katedros aikt
VENTARAG IO G.
ER U NIV
G.
TOTO
LABDARI G.
SG AIT DVIL B.RA

PILIES G.
Kempinski Hotel Cathedral Square
Pogo Hostel
.
A R I O G .
V i ln
Sereikiki parkas
E SIT
ia
2
TO
G.
L.S TU
G.
.
LIEJYK
VILNIAUS G.
S.SKA
LOS G.
Presidential Palace
J.emaiio
S.Daukanto aikt
O G.
PO G
BER N AR D IN
OK O
Atrium
G.
Bernardin B&B House
ILTA D
P.Cvirkos aikt
RI G
AN
DIJ
OS
S -G U
ISL
Shakespeare Boutique Hotel
I AL.
G.
KL O
SG
Artis Centrum
V.M Y
Litinterp Guest House
RO
K.KALINA USKO G.
TO
TO
V . IG NO T O G.
PILIES
PALANGOS G.
BG
LIE
JY
Hotels The Narutis Hotel - Preferred Boutique
aikt
OLD TOWN
Vilnius University
A.VOLANO G.
KO LO G.
Bernardin sodas
S.Moniukos skveras
.
V
G.
M
Arts Academy Hostel
RI
UNIVERSITE
BE
G
.JO
S
BERNARDIN T.
Mabre Residence
NO
RU
G.
LI T E
IVI KR
G.
. N G AL
T RA
FLUXUS T.
G.
G.
Reformat skveras
Apia Hotel
KLAIPDOS G.
LA T AK O
3
Tibeto skveras
UUPIS
POLO
U U PIO G
.
GAONO G.
PYLIMO G.
K.Sirvydo skveras
TEATRO G.
US
ST
G.
M DO
AT FR
O INIK
G.
Relais & Chateaux Stikliai Hotel
N
IKL I
. G
I GA N YTOJO G.
UUPIO T.
VARCO G.
Latako B&B House
C KO
3
ia
G.
G.
BOKTO
DID
J.BASA
IOJI
N VIL
IA
G.
U U P IO G.
N AVI
Y D G.
Centro Kubas - Angel
Vi
P AU PIO G.
TO AN KR G.
ln
MAIR
IAUS G
ST
G.
.
ONIO
IKL
SE Jimmy Jumps House
PR
G. TRAK Prancikon g. skveras
G.
NT O K OLSK IO
CI AN
G.
VO
PAPLAUJOS T.
O N G. K
Hostelgate
KI E
PY L
M.A
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AU K TAII G.
PA U
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IN
G.
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AUGUSTIJON G.
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G.
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S G.
JI G
S
VA R
.
VE
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Domus Maria
G.
Conti
Lazdyn Peldos skveras

VASIO
. T G
5
J G .
Comfort Vilnius
KR UO
V.D
ALTIN
I G.
M .D A U
.
K O S
G.
IUPRONI G.
V .ST EP ON OG .
GLI G.
RA UG YK LO SG .
. G LAP
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TE P O
V.S
6
SEIN G.
ST
G
Fortuna Hostel
panoramic view
R TU
G.
SO D
NARUIO
KENOS G.
EL E
post office
G.
PE LE SO SG .
public toilet
K EP
A
Map data: Data Base of the Georeference Background of the Republic of Lithuania GDB10LT National Land Service under the Ministry of Agriculture of the Republic of Lithuania, 2012 Map visualisation:P U NS KO State Enterprise GIS-Centras, 2012 G.
LN
G.
ER PAN
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RASOS
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VA
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A Hostel
Down Town Market B&B
AR OS V
Come to Vilnius
AU
consulate
Old Town Hostel
KAUNO G.
Mikotel Panorama
D
T
.
S G. R UJO
G.
concert hall DRUJOS G. cinema

PELESO
S N ALK
bus station outdoor stage S G.

KELIO IN GELE G.
train station market monument

G.
V.O G.
Comfort Hotel LT
PENO
petrol RAM station parking

. IO G
YB SG .
6
GE
EL INK
recommended view
LI
ALmedical centre K N SG police .

G.
VAR U VOS G.
MIELAG N G.
MIND A
UL I
U NA
IN SG .
. ETM O N G
AAA Mano Liza MT Ramada Hotel & Suites Vilnius
LIG
L I G
. G GRI VIN
T O
Vingri altini skveras

DI D IO J I
LYDOS
G.
G.
Rotus aikt
Kdr parkas
Town Hall
KDR G.
4
PAUPYS
M A I R O N IO G .
G. IAUS SUBA
G SUBA IAU S .
EMAI TIJOS G.
BOKTO
G. KO
G K
G.
Radisson Blu Astorija TR
V IN G
IA
U RD GA
R NIN D
Rinno
R I
GR
V.
KA
Z IM IE RO
G.
G.
G.
UG O G
PY L IM O
AU
Grotthuss Rdnink G. Vartai
.
K
R
Geto auk aikt

M AR
OS
Europa Royale Vilnius
AGUON
EL
A.STRA
IT
IdaBasar
PAS A O
G
S KG
Grybas house
S UB A IA US G.
G.
PL
VI
A IO
Z DEL
IO G
Legend
catholic church
M.DA
. SG O UK
hotel
RA S G.
5
orthodox church
K.V
Dawn Gate
BAZILIJO N G.
City Gate Alexa B&B Florens
hostel synagogue museum

LIO G. AN AG
guesthouse B&B official building

AUR
AGUON
G.
information centre theatre

FR
J.JABLO
embassy
PY LIM OG
OT IES G.
LI
98
Index
Academy 21 A ir B Mackevii Odontologijos Klinika 88 AirInn Vilnius Hotel 25 Alexa Old Town Hotel 25 Algirdas City Hotels 25 Amatinink Ueiga 53 Amber 77 Amber Museum-Gallery 77 Amberton Hotel 23 Amber Tours 13 Ameda 28 Antakalnis Cemetery 72 Apia Hotel 26 Apvalaus Stalo Klubas 14 Archaeology Museum 63 Armenia 92 Artis Centrum Hotels 23 Artistai 53 Arts Printing House 21 Auksinis Trikampis 30 Aula 46 Auros Vart Meno Galerija 82 Austrian Airlines 11 Austrian Gourmet & Bistro 79 Aviavilsa 11 Avis 11 Azia Spa 86 Baltic-American Clinic 88 Baltic Clipper 13 balTICK Language Services 92 Baltic Tours Vilnius 13 Baltic Travel Cars 11 Baltic Travel Service Lufthansa City Center 13, 70 Bambalyn 59 Beata Amber 77 Bel Ami 37 Berlin 58 Bernardine Cemetery 72 Bernardin B&B House 28 Best Western Vilnius 24 Biosala 79 Bistro 18 37 Bit 75 Bitinlis 83 Bix 53 Bff Steak House Vilnius 50 Boulingo Klubas 60 Boutique of Various Things 83 BPC Travel 13 Brasserie de Verres en Vers 34 British Council 20 Briusly 53 Brodvjus 56 Brussels Airlines 11 Buses & Trolleybuses 9 Bus Station 10 By train 9 Cactus 53 aichana 48 California Tapas & Wine 51 Carr 37 Castle & Trakai History Museum 15 Centre of Europe 68 Centro Kubas - Angel 26 C Gates 84 Choral Synagogue 73 Church Heritage Museum 63 Church of Sts. Michael & Constantine 65 Church of the Apparition of the Holy Mother of God 65 Church of the Holy Cross 65 Church of the Holy Mother of God 65 ili Kaimas 46 ili Pica 48 Citadele 84 City Gate 26 Cocainn 56 Coffee Inn 40 Collectors' Club 77 Comedy Club Vilnius 58 Come to Vilnius 29 Comfort Hotel Lt 26 Comfort Vilnius 26 Congress 24 Contemporary Arts Centre 21 Conti 24 Corner Hotel 27 Crowne Plaza Vilnius 24 Cukatos 38 CWT Lithuania 13 Da Antonio 43 Danish Cultural Institute 20 Dawn Gate 62 Delta 13 Didysis Pegasas 78 Didioji Krautuv 79 Dolls 60 Domino Theatre 21 Domus Maria 26 Draugyst 78 Druskos Namai 38 Dviratis Tau 83 Eastanbul 79 East Island Exotic 86 Easy Rental 11 Ecotel Vilnius 28 e.k.art 78 Ekipaas 10 El Gaucho Sano 31 Embassy Hotel Balatonas 24 Esse 38 Estonian Air 11 Eugenijus Apartments 30 Europa 76 Europa City Vilnius 26 Europa Royale Vilnius 24 Europa Stay Vilnius 26 Europcar 11 Europos Parkas 68 Evangelical Lutheran Church 66 Exotic Spa Morocco 87 Expedition 83 Fabra Ars 78 Filaretai 29 Financial Services Center 92 Finnair 11 Fiorentino 44 Flower Market 76 Fortas 54 Forto Dvaras 46 Fortuna Hostel 29 Franciscan Church 66 Franko 84 Free Ball 60 French Institute 20 Gediminas Castle & Museum 62 Gedimino 9 76 Gedimino Dvaras 46 Gls ir Manufaktra 76 Genocide Victims' Museum 62 Gintraka 82 Gluck 56 Graf Zeppelin 46 Grand Duke Gediminas 71 Grata Hotel 26 Green Bridge 68 Green Hall 38 Green Vilnius Hotel 27 Grill Inn 38 Gringo 54 Grotthuss 24 Gytis Ivanauskas Theatre 22 Hertz 11 Hill of Three Crosses 68 Holiday Inn 24 Holocaust Exposition 73 Holy Trinity Church & Basilian Gate 66 Ida Basar 32 iDeal Solution 78 IKI 79 IKI Commercial Centre 76 IKI Express 79 IMuzika 83 Infostruktra 75 In Your Pocket 87 Ireland 92 Italika Kepykla 38 Jackie 54 Jalta 39 Jaunimo Perspektyva 85 Jewelry Art Studio 21 Jewish Cemetery 74 Jewish Community of Lithuania 73 Jonas Bugailikis Art Studio 19 Julia Janus 82 Kalvarij Market 77 Kas Kas 54 Keisti enklai 47 Kelioni Panorama 13 Kenesa 68 KFC 36 Kitchen 39 Koldnin 47 Kybynlar 15 La Birra 54 La Crepe 46 La Provence 33 Lauro Lapas 39 Lazdyn Pelda 71 Leiiai 54 Leleko 52 Ll Puppet Theatre 22 Le Mridien Vilnius 23 Linas Samnas 35 Linen & Amber Studio 82 Lingua Lituanica 85 Literat Gatv 69 Lithuanian Energy and Technology Museum 63 Lithuanian Holidays 13, 70 Lithuanian Karaite & Tatar Cemetery 72 Lithuanian Music & Theatre Academy 20 Lithuanian National Drama Theatre 22 Lithuanian National Opera & Ballet Theatre 21 Lithuanian National Philharmonic 20 Lithuanian Radio & Television Museum 63 Lithuanian Railway Museum 63 Lithuanian Russian Drama Theatre 22 Lithuanian State Historical Archives 85 Lithuanian Theatre, Music & Cinema Museum 63 Lithuanian Tours 13 Lokys 47 LOT 11 Lotus 58 Lufthansa 11 Lux Express 10 Mabre Residence 24 Maghrib 42 Mamma Mia! 79 Mano Lietuviki Namai 82 Map of the Ghetto 74 Marceliuks Kltis 48 March de Provence 34 Marks & Spencer 78 Markus ir Ko 50 Maasis Pub'as 54 McDonald's 36 Meat Lovers Pub 50 Medininkai 39 Meno Fortas 22 Meno Nia 20 Men Fabrikas 21 Mikotel 28 Minibuses 10 Mint Vinetu 78 M. K. iurlionis' House 69 Mojitos 58 Molio Laum 20 Money Museum 64 Moscow 58 Multikino 20 Narutis Restaurant 33 National Art Gallery 64 National Museum 64 National Youth Theatre 22 Neringa 25, 40 Neringa Caf-Bar 56 Nes Casino 61 Nio 52 Norwegian Air Shuttle 11 Notre Vie 59 Novotel Vilnius Centre 25 OKT/Vilnius City Theatre 22 Old Town Hostel 29 Old Town Strip Club 61 Omakase Sushi & Grill 51 Omnitel 75 Ona 83 Opium 56 Oreivysts Centras 70 Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva 66 Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit 66 Osaka 45 Osteria da Luca 44 Ozas 76 Pabo Latino 56 Panorama 27, 76 Paparazzi 58 Paradise 61 Park Inn Vilnius North 27 Park Villa 25 Pasaka 20 Pauki Takas 34 Paupio Namai 28 Pekinas 32 Piano.lt 20 Piano Man 54 Piazzetta Italia 44 Pinavija 38 Pizza Hut Express 48 Pizza Jazz 48 Plieno Pauktis 54 Pogo 54 Pogo Hostel 29 Pomodoro 48 Poni Laim 31 Pramog Arena 20 Presidential Palace 69 Prie Katedros 40 Prisma 79 Prospekto Galerija 21 Radharan 52 Radisson Blu Astorija 23 Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva 25 Rasos Cemetery 72 Raw42 47 Raw Raw 47 Reformed Evangelical Church 66 Reinis The Cook 35 Relais & Chateaux Stikliai Hotel 23 Ren 35 Rib Room 40 Rimas 11 Rimi Hypermarket 76 Rinno 27 Riverside 40 Roast & Beer Pub 40 Rdl & Partner 92 Romain Gary 74 Rotas 78 Rdnink Knygynas 78 Rdnink Vartai 28 Rta 79 Ryanair 13 Saint Germain 59 Salentino Caf 40 Salento DiscoPub 56 Sarkozy 59 SAS Scandinavian Airlines 11 Sauls Namai 28 Sauluva 82 auni Vietel 55 Savas Kampas 59 Seimas 69 Seklyia 31 Senamiesio Gidas 13 Senamiesio Groio Salonas 84 Senatoriai 27 Senoji Trobel 48 Shakespeare Boutique Hotel 25 Shimai Sushi & Wine 51 Siemens Arena 20 Sixt 11 Skalvija 20 Skapo Apartments 30 Skonis ir Kvapas 41 SkyBar 55 MC Kavin 55 Sofa Travel 13 Sonnets 41 Souvenir Market 77 Spa Centre East Island 87 punka 55 St. Anne's Church 62 Stars & Legends 55 Start FM 87 Stasys Apartments 30 St. Casimir's Church 67 St. Catherine's Church 20 Steak House Hazienda 50 Steak House Helios 50 Stebuklai 41 Stebuklas 70 Stikliai 33 Stikli Dvaras 26 Stiklo Paslaptis 82 St. Nicholas' Church 67 St. Nicolas' Church 67 Sts. Johns' Church 67 Sts. Peter & Pauls' Church 67 St. Theresa's Church 68 turm vyturio uvys 82 St. Valentino 44 Sulius 41 Srinink Namai 77 Sveiki Produktai 82 vieia Kava 40 TaDas 21 Tamsta 58 Takas 75 Tautodailininko Dirbtuv 20 Tavo Erdv 52 Teatro Arena 20 TELE2 75 Telegrafas 33 Television Tower 70 Terrano 42 Terra Recognita 21 The Beautiful Land Of Nevermind 13 The Globe 55 The Narutis Hotel - Preferred Boutique 23, 90 The Notebook Shop 78 Thierry Kepykla 38 Tiflisi-Dukani 35 Titanikas 21 Tokyo China 31 Tourist Information Centre 14 Town Hall 70 Trakai Historical National Park Information Bureau 14 Trasalis 14 Tres Mexicanos 49 Trip 55 Tuskulnai Peace Park Memorial Complex 64 kinink Turgus 77 Universiteto Pub 56 UTair 11 Uzbekistanas 48 Uupio Galerija 20 Uupio Kalvysts Galerija Muziejus 20 Uupio Kavin 35 Uupio Picerija 49 Uupis Angel 71 Uupis Old Jewish Cemetery 74 Vaga 78 Vapiano 44 Vartai 21 Vasaros Terasa 53 VCUP 76 Vegaf 52 VeloCity Tours & Rent 13 Veloklinika.lt 13 Veranda 43 Vero Caf 40 Verslo Parkas Garinai 77 Vichy Aqua Park 90 Vienuolyno Kiemas 53 Vieta 52 Vilnius Apartments 30 Vilnius City Camping 25 Vilnius City Tour 70 Vilnius Congress Hall 20 Vilnius Old Town Theatre 22 Vilnius Picture Gallery 64 Vilnius Small State Theatre 22 Vilnius Tourist Information 6 VilniusTransfer.com 12 Vilnius Travel Service 13 Vilnius University 70 Vilnius Yiddish Institute 74 Vilnius Youth Tourist Centre 30 Vingio Parkas Soldiers Cemetery 72 Visit Lithuania 13 Who Hit John 56 WizzAir 11 Wok & Roll 31 Wrislit 13 emaiiai 48 emait 71 Znad Wilii 21 Zoe's Bar & Grill 43

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A cracking little seasonal guide to the awesome lakeside town of Trakai

N109 - 6Lt www.inyourpocket.com

Europes biggest publisher of locally produced city guides vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting around

Culture & Events

Dining & Nightlife

Mail & Phones

Maps & Index

Trakai. The trip begins on p.14

The World of In Your Pocket

Vilnius In Your Pocket

Crime & Safety

April - July 2013

Money & Costs

V i l n i u s To u r i s t I n f o r m a t i o n (Vilniaus Turizmo Informacijos Centras ir Konferencij Biuras) B-2,

Vilnius In Your Pocket

Independence & Beyond

April - July 2013

Vilnius In Your Pocket

Arriving & Getting around

April - July 2013

Arriving & Getting around

66, www.luxexpress.eu. Also at Saltoniki 9 (Panorama).

Train Station (Geleinkelio Stotis) B-6, Geleinkelio

Vilnius In Your Pocket

Arriving & Getting around

Avis E-5, Laisvs 3,

For business or leisure, rent your car with Sixt.

Baltic Travel Cars I. Simonaityts 2A-25, tel. (+370) 671

April - July 2013

Arriving & Getting around

International bus schedule

Vilnius In Your Pocket

Arriving & Getting around

Local bus schedule

Veloklinika.lt G-4, A. Domaeviiaus 7, tel. (+370) 606

Closed Sat, Sun.

Slnis Slnio 1, tel./fax (+370) 528 538 80, slenyje@

Pirosmani Karaim 2, tel. (+370) 528 561 78, www.

Senoji Kibinin Karaim 65, tel. (+370) 528 558

April - July 2013

Sacred Art Museum (Sakralinio Meno Muziejus)

Vilnius In Your Pocket

Trakai Historical National Park

April - July 2013

Culture & Events

Photo by Gediminas Savickis

Vilnius In Your Pocket

Culture & Events

Arts & Crafts

Amat Gildija B-4, Prancikon 6, tel. (+370) 5 212 05 20/

April - July 2013

Culture & Events

Meno Nia A-3, J. Basanaviiaus 1/13, tel. (+370) 5 231

St. Catherines Church (v. Kotrynos Banyia)

Vilnius Congress Hall (Vilniaus Kongres Rmai)

Forum Cinemas Vingis G-4, Savanori 7, tel. 1567,

Closed Sat, Sun. J

Japanese Information & Cultural Centre (Japoni-

Poland Institute (Lenkijos Institutas) C-4, Didioji

Vilnius In Your Pocket

Culture & Events