Terms

pattern block or sloper

Definitions
guide for cutting one or more garments - tag board pattern/digital pattern of a garment section; follows the natural contours of body or dress form - used to: develop original bodice, skirt, dress, pant, and sleeve designs create first patterns of new or modified styles

first pattern working pattern final pattern

original or initial pattern; includes seam and hem allowances pattern in revision; work in progress - paper or digital pattern; includes garment sections; trued seam lines, seam allowances (notches, grainlines, pattern identification) - used for: making physical muslin or virtual proof cutting out trial or sample garment

pattern card (pattern chart)

form containing info about production pattern: style number sketch of garment size range color offerings yardage needed for fabrics, linings... trims size, amount, and description of findings lost of all pattern pieces and number to be cut

production pattern

tag board or digital copy of tested and perfected final pattern complete pattern set (all pieces needed for a complete garment); including seam allowances, perforations, notches, grainlines, and pattern identifications

graded pattern

individual patterns of a particular garment or style; proportioned to standardized body measurements; for each size within a size range

drafted pattern

- developed through the use of measurements taken from dress form or

which are used to create pattern. allows designer to visualize garment on 3D form. used to create knock-offs small circles on pattern or holes made in fabric to mark dark points. most stretch for woven fabric . parallel to selvage. pocket placement. and intended price point sweep circumference measurement of garment's hem edge. garment deconstructed into pieces. bias allows fabric to skim or cling to body reverse engineering punch holes begins with finished product. grain lines. specifications of manufacturers. curved darts. most garments cut on it Bias grain true bias at 45 degrees to warp or wale. where to end stitching for stitched pleats seam allowance portion of pattern from seam line to edge of pattern. position and type of seam. hem can be let down Straight grain runs in warp direction (wovens). runs in wale direction (knits). fabric type and weave. wide hem require more fabric (costlier). benefits are garments tend to hang smoothly. usually drape lengthvertically on body.used to: cut a test muslin cut a sample garment flat pattern developed through the manual manipulation of drafted blocks or manipulation using CAD draping manipulating cloth to conform to one or more curves of the body. not parallel to warp or wale. most stable. type and purpose of garment.live model (2D) . hem edge for sleeves as well hem width depth of hem or amount turned under. based on development of first pattern muslin.

gores panels in skirt or skirt portion of dress created by dividing the skirt into vertical sections. number of panels = number of gores Gathers Casing introduce fullness to clothing fold-over edge or applied strip that encloses a drawstring of elastic used to draw in garment circumference to fit corresponding body areas. difference between measurement of finished product and body measurements for intended size functional ease (wearing ease) design ease (garment ease/style ease) Darts allows for body movement used to achieve desired design and look of garment means of shaping fabric to fit the figure. lightweight. coats. side panels used on jackets..Cross grain runs in filling direction (woven). sheen and light refraction. runs in course direction (knits). emphasizes geometric fabric prints.. place where garment parts are sewn together Side Panel garment section that provides fit and shape in place of a side seam. . or metallic yarns Ease amount of fabric in pattern design to accommodate body movement. and loosely woven fabrics. allow for extra fabric to be taken up and molded around the curves of body Seams eliminate fabric excess by manipulating two or more panel to conform to the style line and body contour. produces softer drapes or silhouettes for garments cut from heavyweight or closely woven fabrics. tops. border printed parallel to selvage Cut on Bias creates body-skimming silhouettes on garments made from soft.

facilitates ease of dressing children. pants.. and pants legs. provides snug leg openings of swimwear and leotards Seamed Waistline empire waistline natural waistline long torso raised waistline lowered waistline Unseamed Waistline horizontal seam or seams join upper and lower sections of garment just below the bust at the actual body waistline around the hip area slightly above natural waistline slightly below natural waistline no delineation of upper and lower sections of garment by a horizontal seam. buttonholes.. sleeves. hems. grommets. allows adjustable-style effects on necklines. waistline spans the body above and below the waist areas. inserted into slashed opening on a larger garment section or sections. creates fuller silhouette in fitted evening gowns and dresses Gusset diamond-shaped unit or one or more pieces. available in variety of widths. enhances lower portion of skirts. allows freedom of . lower sleeve edges. allow wearer to control garment circumference. metal eyelets.. effect on sheaths or fitted garments. may emerge from slits.used on garments intended to accommodate more than one size or as design detail Drawstring Casing drawstring inserted into casing.. can be used to manipulate necklines. creates fuller circumference. can be made from variety of materials. or seam openings. waistline areas Elastic Casing inserted into casing. enhances hem or cuff Godet triangular or rounded piece inserted into slashed opening or seam in a garment section or sections. creates flounce.

always in the vertical direction Accordion Pleats series of evenly spaced pleats. adjoining seam line. mass-produced garments. side seam Pleats take-up of excess fabric at edge of garment. attached at waistline. fabric ply doubled over to face away from each other. forms the effect of a yoke. panels cut and hemmed prior to pleating. releases fullness above and below the stitching on the waistline of one-piece garments Contoured Waistband band formed to fit the body's curve between midriff and hip.movement when set into a fitted sleeve or crotch area Ruffle gathered or pleated single or double-ply strip of fabric drawn up and sewn into a smaller. enhances hems. forming underlay of 5/8" or less. low-rise pants. or cuff. and necklines Smocking elastic shirring with an overlay pattern of decorative stitches applied to the face of fabric. not suitable for stretch. permanently press to lie in one direction. series of folds. creates a raised and recessed pattern. can open at center (CF). cuffs. simulates handwork in. bulky or napped fabrics Side Pleats (see Knife Pleat) .e. lowered/raised waistlines) Straight Waistband 2" or less in width two more more plies. doubling the fabric ply upon itself. can be single or series. plackets. creates an expandable or contractible decorativepatterned effect. depth of box pleat may not equal width of box Inverted Pleat Knife Pleat two fold in fabric ply. unhemmed edge is fitted Box Pleats evenly spaced folds. center back (CB). midriff. doubled under to meet at central point pleat doubled upon itself. band. accommodates more than one size or body configuration. permanently set with industrial pleating machine. may provide a band finish for special design features (i.

accordion like. planned as extension for the placement of buttonholes. no overlap. snaps. and other closures Band Placket or Tab Placket Bound Placket two finished strips of equal width. 1/4" to 5/8" partially stitched down to fit an area of a garment. abutted. stitched at designated length from. overlap two seam edges folded. lightweight fabric. or faced over center of zipper . on sheer and. produces a lapped closure. tucks can be placed in any direction on garment Release Tucks evenly spaced parallel folds. pattern edge or area to be fitted. creates raised and recessed pattern. overlap strip visible on face of garment opening that does not overlap. formed by one strip of bias of straight grain fabric encasing raw edge of slash clean-finished opening. may be turned towards or away from each other in groups Placket finished opening in a garment section. may lie on inside or outside of garment. should be long enough to allow for ease of dressing. slashed. turned and finished as a bound seam. permanently set by an industrial pleating machine. straightgrain self fabric or contrasting fabric Continuous Lap Placket Faced-Slashed Placket Centered Zipper Insertion (Slot finished opening. narrow evenly spaced parallel folds 1/8" or less (narrow). strip can be of bias. then released to produce fullness. formed by a fabric strip applied.Kick Pleats Sunburst Pleat inverted or side pleat released at knee level or below series of radiating pleats. produced by facing turned inside of garment. applied where garment edges meet vs. hemline and hem finish establish after garment complete Iseey Miyake's Pleats Please Pin Tucks crystal pleats.

and hand of fabrics. jeans designated line along which the hem is folded. overlapped decorative zipper. wide HA can be let down to suit different needs/preferences. used when other fasteners or zipper applications would detract from appearance folded seam edge laps over zipper. pants. faced. design. Why wider hem is better: garment tends to hang smoothly when weighted by wide HA. uses: produces a clean finish. maintain illusion two strips of unequal widths of fabric. only one line of stitching is visible. and care of garment. use. encloses raw edges of opening. enlarged teeth and wide tape. introduces color or textural contrast to garment edge. depends on style. and may be stitched or held in place with bonding agents hem allowances (HA) high quality garments = wider hems. wide HA can be let down to conform to changing fashion Type of hem depends on type. weight. topstitched. used on rain or snow weather garments. type. used on trousers. finish. applied to garment edge (visible on face of garment).Zipper Insertion) Tailored Placket or Shirtsleeve Placket Centered Zipper Insertion Fly-front Concealed Zipper Insertion Lap Zipper Insertion Trouser Fly Zipper Insertion Hemline folded seam edge stitched along stitching guidelines on zipper tape. visible on face of garment extension conceals ½ of zipper. increases length of garment Faced Hem clean finished hem produced on shaped edge. bias. uses: maintain curved edge. depends on methods of production and manufacturing Band Hem shaped. finished. zipper concealed . or straight grain double ply strip of fabric folded or seamed. reduce bulk on garments made of heavy fabric.

1/8 inch (. also used on scarves hem finish using a bias strip of material. lengthen hemline Bound Hem (Hong Kong Finish or Welt Finished Edge) Glued Hem produced by turned-up fold with unfinished edge glued to body of garment. frequent washings. lettuce edge finish on knit and stretch fabrics Mitered Hem hem that turns corner. produces: flat finish for firmly woven or bulky fabrics Over Edged Hem clean finish on raw edge by interlocking thread loops. produces a billowing affect at lower edge.of fabric on garments made of lace. visible on face of fabric. penetrates all plies. other skins. felt. purpose: in lieu of undesirable machine stitching. used on leather. squares corner of faced and other hems. adds body to hem. or machine stitched in stages. can be applied with or without tape or binding Machine Stitched Hem hem held in place with one or more parallel rows of machine stitching raw edge is folded under. uses: garments subjected to increased wear. transparent woven bias braid. produces: finish to unturned raw edge. seamed an angle bisecting corner. purposes: eliminates bulk at corners. raw edge is folded and stitched in one operation. purpose: lightweight edge finish on very full garments of sheer and lightweight fabrics. edges that do not ravel. applied as decorative detail or for flat hem finish on thick material which could fray . support and maintain shape of scalloped edges. produces continuous fitted look when trim added Rolled Hem narrow double-folded hem. suede. achieves a flat look at corner or points.2 mm). not visible on face of garment. applied to conceal and bind the raw hem edge. allows for controlled fullness Blind Stitched Hem folded hem secured by series of interlocking loop stitches (modified zigzag stitch). and other matted fabrics Horsehair Hem hem produced using stiff.

prevent hem areas from shifting or riding up on body. uses: lower edge of pleats and slashed openings. produces a lettuce edge on sheer and lightweight fabrics . lead pellets. are added or attached to hem. creates structural detail to ruffles and trimmings. front corner of hem and facings of coats and jackets Wired Hem stiffened edge produced by incorporating plastic monofilament or wire into the fold of a narrow hem. square or round lead disk. purposes: adds body without weight to hem. produces hem areas that billows or stand out.Weighted Hem hem in which metal chain. purposes: control drape of hem. help hem fall evenly. add body to hem of lightweight fabrics. hold hem detail in place. keep hem straight.