Timing 500 800 series

Timing 6000 series (drop-in)

 Locate the timing marks on the needle bar. Insert a new needle
into the needle clamp. Set the needle position to the center. Bring
the needle to the lowest position.

With the needle bar in the lowest position one timing make should
be visible. Slowly raise the needle bar until the mark is level with
the bushing. At this point the hook tip and needle should meet.
If the hook and needle do not meet as shown and the needle bar
height is right as per the timing marks the timing will need to be
adjusted.

Turn the machine onto its back. Locate the hook drive shaft belt
pulley. Loosen the two screws ½ turn each. Carefully turn the hook
with your hand until the hook and needle meet.

Do not turn the hook too far and make sure the feed dogs are down
when the needle is down. If the feed dogs are up when the needle
is down the timing is 180° out. Retime the machine so the feed
dogs are down when the needle is down.

Tensions 500 series

Loosen the screw on the top tension unit one turn. Remove the
outer cover. Check between the tension discs for thread or lint.

Turn the adjusting nut ¼ turn at a time until the desired tension is
achieved. Replace the cap at 4.5 and tighten the screw. This resets
your top tension to a medium number.

The bobbin tension should stay constant but may have to be

adjusted if the spring was bent or thread was caught under the
spring. Check under the spring for thread or lint. Insert a full
bobbin wound with medium weight, light color thread. You should
feel some tension but not enough so you have to grip the thread
hard to pull it. If the tension is too loose or too tight turn the
adjusting screw ¼ turn at a time to set the tension.
The result you are looking for is when the knot forms in the center
on the fabric.

Timing needle bar height 15 class

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Timing 200 series

Checking the timing on your machine is easy because there are
timing marks that show you where the machine must be set.

Remove the needle plate and bobbin case.Turn the hand wheel
towards you until the needle bar is in the lowest position. You will
see two marks on the needle bar with the top one being flush with
the bottom of the bushing. If it is not loosen the needle bar screw
and move it up or down to set the marks. Make sure you keep the
needle bar straight (needle clamp screw should be straight to the
right)

Next turn the hand wheel until the lower timing mark is flush with
the bushing. At this point the hook tip should be just above the eye
of the needle as shown.
If the hook tip and needle do not line up as shown, turn the
machine on its back making sure the needle bar does not move.
Loosen the two timing screws on the hook pulley (only loosen
them ¼ turn). Move the hook to line it up with the needle. Tighten
the screws and recheck the timing. The feed dogs should be in the
down position when timing the machine. If the feed dogs are up
when the timing is set as shown, the hook timing is out 180°.
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Timing 300 series

Remove the needle plate and bobbin case. Turn the hand wheel
towards you until the needle bar is in the lowest position. You will
see two marks on the needle bar with the top one being flush with
the bottom of the bushing. If it is not loosen the needle bar screw
and move it up or down to set the marks. Make sure you keep the
needle bar straight (needle clamp screw should be straight to the
right)

Next turn the hand wheel until the lower timing mark is flush with
the bushing. At this point the hook tip should be just above the eye
of the needle as shown.
If the hook tip and needle do not line up as shown, turn the
machine on its back making sure the needle bar does not move.
Loosen the two timing screws on the hook pulley (only loosen
them ¼ turn). Move the hook to line it up with the needle. Tighten
the screws and recheck the timing.

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Timing 600 series

To check the hook timing first you need to check the needle bar height.
Bring the needle bar to its lowest position. You will see two timing marks
on the needle bar.

If the upper timing mark is just visible under the bushing as shown the
needle bar is at the right height. If not loosen the needle bar clamping
screw and carefully move the needle bar up or down. Do not twist the
needle bar sideways.
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Timing 700 series

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Timing 500 800 series

 back to top

Timing 6000 series (drop-in)

Locate the timing marks on the needle bar. Insert a new needle
into the needle clamp. Set the needle position to the center. Bring
the needle to the lowest position.
With the needle bar in the lowest position one timing make should
be visible. Slowly raise the needle bar until the mark is level with
the bushing. At this point the hook tip and needle should meet.

If the hook and needle do not meet as shown and the needle bar
height is right as per the timing marks the timing will need to be
adjusted.

Turn the machine onto its back. Locate the hook drive shaft belt
pulley. Loosen the two screws ½ turn each. Carefully turn the hook
with your hand until the hook and needle meet.
Do not turn the hook too far and make sure the feed dogs are down
when the needle is down. If the feed dogs are up when the needle
is down the timing is 180° out. Retime the machine so the feed
dogs are down when the needle is down.

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Timing 6000 series (wind in place)

Insert a new needle into the needle clamp. Set the needle position
to the left. Bring the needle to the lowest position. Slowly bring the
needle bar up until the hook and needle meet. The hook tip should
be just below the middle of the scarf of the needle.
The needle should have come up 2.4mm to 2.7mm from its lowest
position.

If the hook and needle do not meet as shown you will have to
adjust the hook timing.

Turn the machine onto its back. Locate the hook drive shaft belt
pulley. Loosen the two screws ½ turn each. Carefully turn the hook
with your hand until the hook and needle meet. Tighten the screws
and recheck the timing.
When the hook and needle are in position the timing marks on the
feed lifting cam should line up as shown.

If the two feed timing marks do not line up when the hook timing is
set you will have to adjust the feed timing.

Locate the two screws on the feed drive gear. Loosen the screws
½ turn each. Carefully turn the feed lifting cam to line up the two
marks. Tighten the screws and recheck the feed timing. Be careful
not to turn the feed lifting cam too far. To check this make sure the
feed dogs are below plate level when the needle is down. If they
are up rotate the feed lifting cam 180° so the feed dogs are below
the top of the needle plate.

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Tensions 800 series
The bobbin tension should stay constant but may have to be
adjusted if the spring was bent or thread was caught under the
spring. Check under the spring for thread or lint. Insert a full
bobbin wound with medium weight, light color thread. You should
feel some tension but not enough so you have to grip the thread
hard to pull it. If the tension is too loose or too tight turn the
adjusting screw ¼ turn at a time to set the tension.

The result you are looking for is when the knot forms in the center
on the fabric.
 back to top

Tensions 500 series

Loosen the screw on the top tension unit one turn. Remove the
outer cover. Check between the tension discs for thread or lint.

Turn the adjusting nut ¼ turn at a time until the desired tension is
achieved. Replace the cap at 4.5 and tighten the screw. This resets
your top tension to a medium number.
The bobbin tension should stay constant but may have to be
adjusted if the spring was bent or thread was caught under the
spring. Check under the spring for thread or lint. Insert a full
bobbin wound with medium weight, light color thread. You should
feel some tension but not enough so you have to grip the thread
hard to pull it. If the tension is too loose or too tight turn the
adjusting screw ¼ turn at a time to set the tension.

The result you are looking for is when the knot forms in the center
on the fabric.
 back to top

Tensions 2000 series

From the open top of the machine, locate the top tension unit. The
normal top tension for your machine should be 3 - 4 on the tension
dial. The bobbin tension should not require adjusting. Stitch out a
test seam. The knot should meet in the center of the fabric.

If adjustment is required, loosen the nut on the tension unit and

turn the adjusting screw ½ turn at a time and test stitch again.
Continue until the right tension is achieved. Make sure the dial is
set at normal after you turn the screw and before you test stitch.
Turning the adjusting screw clockwise will tighten the top tension
(increase). Retighten the nut and replace the covers on the
machine.

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How do I stop the thread from looping under my fabric?

Thread looping on the bottom of your fabric is usually caused by little or
no top tension or too much bobbin tension. Another cause is thread or
lint caught in the top tension
- Make sure the thread is between the tension discs and that no thread
or lint is caught.
- Check that your top tension is set to a medium number.
- The thread should pull from the bobbin tension evenly. You should not
have to pull too hard.

- Make sure the thread is in the take-up lever.

 Back to top

Why won't my tension change when I turn the tension dial?

This problem is usually caused by lint or thread caught in the tension
discs.
- Check between the tension discs for lint.
- After re-threading the machine, check that the top thread is between
the discs.

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Why does my top thread keep breaking?

There are a few reasons the top thread may break.
- Check the needle plate for damage around the needle hole. Polish any
burrs with fine sand paper or a needle file.
- Check the hook for damage. If the hook is damaged it can cause the
thread to break as it comes off the tip. Be very careful if you must
remove burrs from the hook. Changing the shape of the hook tip will
cause skipping problems.

- Check that the top tension is not too high. The top tension should be
set at a medium number for regular sewing.
Back to top

Why does my needle break?

- Check that the top tension is not too tight. The top tension should be
set at a medium number for regular sewing.
- Check needle size for the thickness of your fabric. Using a needle that
is too small for the type and thickness of fabric you are using will cause
the needle to bend and hit the hook.
- The hook timing may be out. Insert a new needle and carefully turn the
hand wheel towards you. Check that the needle is not going to hit the
hook.
 Back to top

My bobbin thread won't get picked up by the top thread.

The main reason could be the way the needle is inserted.
- Check if the needle is inserted correctly for your machine. The flat of
the needle must be inserted toward the hook tip. The thread sits in the
grove in the front of the needle and is picked up by the hook in the scarf
on the back of the needle. Also check that the needle is not blunt or
bent as this will cause the hook to miss the thread.

- Make sure the take-up lever is threaded.

- The hook timing may be out. The hook tip and needle scarf must meet
at the right point for the thread to be picked up and create the stitch.
Back to top
 Why won't the fabric feed?
- Check that the feed dogs are up. Some machines have a feed drop
feature for darning. Make sure the machine is set for sewing and not
darning. Also check that lint is not clogging up the grooves in the feed
dogs. Lint can build up over time and push the feed dogs down below
the needle plate.

- Check the pressure on the pressure bar. You require pressure on the
foot to feed the fabric. No pressure and the fabric will just sit in one spot.

- Check that the pressure foot is installed properly. If the foot is not
installed right the fabric may not feed.
- Check for ruff spots on the needle plate as fabric can get caught.
 Back to top

Why is the thread looping on the top of the fabric?

Check that the thread is in the bobbin tension spring.

- Check for lint or thread caught in the tension. When you pull on the
bobbin thread you should feel some tension.
Materials List:

• Thread
• Sewing machine
• 1 - 1 1/2 Yard of 45" wide fabric
 Cutting Directions:

• Lay the fabric flat and fold the right sides together, overlapping approximately
13". Mark as shown in the diagram.
• Use the remainder of the fabric to make bias tape and an optional pocket.
• Cut 2" wide Bias Strips of the fabric to have approximately 5 yards if 1/2" wide
double folded bias tape. This gives you ample back ties for people who like to
wrap the ties around and tie them in the front.
 • Join the bias strips and press.

Note:The easiest way to make this Bias Tape is by using a Bias Tape maker.
This was my first time working with this tool and I wouldn't be without it for any other
bias tape projects! Find on line Bias Tape Maker sources here.
More On Bias Tape

• Turn under 1/4" of the top edge (wrong sides together).

• Press the facing towards the body of the apron (wrong sides together).
• Top stitch the facing to the body of the apron. I used thread to compliment the
bias tape and a stretch stitch to accentuate the stitches.
 • Hem one 25" edge of the pocket by pressing under 1/4" (wrong sides together)
and pressing under again. You may want to cover the raw edge with contrasting
bias tape as shown in the finished apron.
• Place the raw 25" edge of the pocket on the hem of the apron with right side of
the pocket against the wrong side of the apron. Use a 1/2" seam to join the pocket
and the body of the apron.
• Press the pocket up on to the front side of the body of the apron.
• Use a row of top stitching up the center of the pocket to create two pockets.
• Work the sides of the apron as one piece of fabric following the regular
directions.

Side Hems:

• Turn the straight sides of the apron under 1/4" and 1/4" again to enclose the raw
edge.
• Top stitch the side hems.

Simple Neckline

• Find the center of your pressed bias tape.

• Measure 11" down from the center and place the slanted, arm area of the apron
inside the bias tape. Pin into place. Repeat for the other side.
 Note: Rings in the photo
are not actual D rings. I
used rings that were on an
old pocketbook.

• Starting 6" from

the end of the bias
tape, attach the bias
tape to the arm
area, enclosing the
raw edge in the
bias tape. Attach
two D rings to the
neckline end of the
bias tape by simply zigzagging the raw end to the bias tape enclosing the D rings
in the loop of bias tape.
• On the other arm area, measure, 14" down from the end of the bias tape and
enclose the raw edge of the apron. Turn the ends of the bias tape in to enclose the
raw ends or zig zag the end.

• Stitch the bias tape closed and enclose the raw edges of the apron with the bias
tape.
• Continue sewing the bias tape alone to make the ties.
• If you have not added the optional pocket, press under 1/4" on the bottom of the
apron (wrong sides together). Press up 1" for the hem and stitch in to place.

Free Directions to Sew a Chef's Hat

Materials List:

• 3/4 Yard of 44-45" wide fabric - white or an appropriate novelty print. Hot chili
pepper print comes to my mind.
• Thread
• Interfacing
• 4" of 1" wide hook and loop tape
• Sewing Machine

Cutting Directions:

• 22" circle with 3 1/2" slit towards the middle from one edge
• 8" by 25 1/2" band on straight of grain of fabric and of interfacing - Cut the
interfacing to match this band. Baste or fuse the interfacing and work them as one
piece through the rest of the directions.
• 7" strip of bias double folded tape (3/8" wide when folded)
 Apply bias tape to the slit in the circle.

Gather & Attach the Circle to the Band

 Run gathering stitches (2 to
3 rows of basting stitch) on the edge of the circle. Set aside.

Place wrong sides of the band together folding the band in half on the 25 1/2" length. Use
a 1/2" seam on each end of the strip. Turn right sides out and press so that the raw edges
are together.

Find the 1/4 marks of the circle, using the slit for one mark, by folding the circle in
quarters.

Fold the band in quarters and mark the quarter points.

Gather the circle to fit the band, matching bias tape edges to the ends of the band and the
quarter marks that you made on the band and the circle.
Sew the Circle to the Band

Use a 1/2" seam to attach the circle to the band. Serge or zigzag the seam allowance.

Top Stitch the Band

Top stitch the edges of the band, using the top stitching to tack the seam allowance to the
band.
Attaching the Hook & Loop Tape

Fold the band in half up towards the hat.

Finger press this crease.

Line the hook and loop up along this crease as shown in the photo. Make sure you have
the hook and loop on opposite sides of the band so they will overlap to close the hat.

Top stitch the hook and loop tape in to place.