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South Kaipara, Helensville, Auckland
Charted Designs for Traditional Knitting
Description
Yarn
Minimum 160gm 2ply handspun or
2ply millspun.
Needles
1.25 mm DPNs and 60cm double
pointed needles.
Miscellaneous
Stitch markers, cable needle, 2 stitch
holders, row counter.
Gauge
Width 30cm.
Measurements
Length 34cm
Weight
160 gm
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Connors Aran
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Construction
The jersey is knit bottom up in the round with textured panels worked in the front and
back centre. The armholes are steeked to about a third of the depth of the body.
Stitches are picked up around the armhole. The shoulders are then formed by seaming
from the body edge to the neck opening. The cut knitted fabric hangs neatly inwards
forming a facing for the sleeve edge. This cut edge is oversewn by hand taking
particular care at the underarm where there is a narrow seam created to provide ease
for the join at the jersey body. Sleeves are then worked in the round down from the
shoulder seam to the cuff, decreasing every eighth round. As the front central panel is
finished a centimetre lower than the back panel, this forms a neat front neckline. The
neck is ribbed and worked to roll to the inside of the neckline. The stitches are then
hand-sewn to finish the neck. The garment must be washed and blocked.
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1cm depth
25 cm
9 cm
15cm
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12.5 cm
34 cm
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30 cm
jersey. This chart is repeated five times to create five diamond motifs down the front and back.
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Important Note This chart only shows stitches for the central front and back panels of the
The top diamond point on the front is not fully completed so as to accommodate the neckline
of the jersey.
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After completing a swatch for gauge, cast on 212 stitches on a 60cm 1.25 circular
needle. Join to work in the round and knit 1x1 rib to a depth of 4.5 cm. Mark front
centre and back centre points with stitch markers. Arrange stitches and markers so
that you are ready to work the front and back panels. Mark side centre points too. See
chart for circular needle set-up on next page.
Instructions
Right side centre is your starting point. Jersey is worked in the round so front side will
always be facing you.
Following the chart and working 60 knit stitches between front and back panels, work
body of jersey until 31 cm minimum (including ribbing) is achieved on the front panel
or until the final diamond motif is three quarters complete i.e. the arms of the shape
are turned inwards to the centre but not yet joined at the top. This will be a matter of
judgement for you. Essentially the jersey should be completed to the collar bone and
not the shoulder line in order to work the neck and shoulder shaping.
Circular needle set-up set-up for Connors Aran Jersey. 212 total stitches.
53 stitches between
front, back and side markers.
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NB. There are two methods of completing the neck and shoulder shaping when working in the round:
Angled position of
DPNs for stitch
pick-up using steeked
method.
Front panel
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Shoulder
seam
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Picking up stitches across a 45 degree angle will give a smarter neck closure.
Allow about a centimetres seam allowance. Cutting across the bias always
exposes the stretch in fabric so work to collect the stitches before cutting. The
ribbed opening that is to be worked will roll over the cut edge and be sewn
down to conceal the raw stitches.
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Measure down jersey side from shoulder seam to one third of the jerseys length (just
over 10 cm) and mark with a single lockable stitch-holder. The fabric is folded here and
will be cut by steeking.
With the shoulder seam already sewn up, pick up stitches down each side of the armhole leaving a 1cm allowance. At the bottom of the armhole pick up in a straight line to
join the stitch pick-up line on the back. Use DPNs for stitch pick up.
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Cut at
90 degrees
for ease.
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Neckline
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Ratio of vertical stitches to horizontal stitches when picking up should be three out of
every four. Refer back to the swatch and perform a test with that before starting.
After collecting all the stitches (64) work on DPNs in knit stitch and incorporate the
chart below for the central sleeve panel. Again arrange stitch-markers either side of a
central marker so as to achieve symmetry with the cabled motif. With a few rows
worked cut down the folded line from the very edge of the shoulder seam to half a
centimetre before the stitch line at the bottom of the armhole. Mark your cutting line
by oversewing on either side of the line to be cut. To ease the straight seam at the
awkward point at the bottom of the armhole cut again through the seam allowance to
half a centimetre out to the start of the vertical stitch line. Hand sew a firm finish to
the raw seam before continuing. This will allow a better hang to the sleeve.
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Figure 3 Cutting the vertical steek at the armhole. Note the oversewn lines.
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Work sleeve using chart for central panel. Arrange stitch-markers and needles so that
the chart is symmetrical and central. Mark for where paired decreases are worked.
Decreases will shape the sleeve along the join on the bottom edge. Work these in pairs
two stitches either side of the sleeve join. See Figures 4 and 5.
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Continue downwards along the sleeve decreasing two stitches every eighth row until a
length of 22 cm is achieved. The wrist should measure 9cm. Continue with 3 cm of 1x1
ribbing. Cast off loosely.
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Weave in ends. Close up any awkward holes at the neck or armhole by sewing into the
knitted fabric through stitches using a wool needle and left-over wool. Pull the fabric
closed. Do not knot the end of the wool weave the ends in and snip.
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Hand- wash gently in a plant-based fibre wash. Rinse and squeeze out excess water.
Dry flat in a warm spot. Use a jersey stretcher if possible, though a conveniently sized
breadboard placed inside the body of the garment worked very well. The legs of sock
shapers proved good for the sleeves too.
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Copyright
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Ravelry.com TinShedYarns
Tin Shed Yarns Charted Designs for Traditional Knitting
tinshedyarn. blogspot. nz
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tinshedyarns@gmail.com
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