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Nondirectional and Directional Wave Data Analysis Procedures
Nondirectional and Directional Wave Data Analysis Procedures
Nondirectional and
Directional Wave
Data Analysis
Procedures
Stennis Space Center
January 1996
96-002(1)
Nondirectional and
Directional Wave
Data Analysis
Procedures
96-002(1)
96-002(1)
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PAGE
1.0
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.0
PURPOSE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3.0
1
1
2
2
2
3
4
4
5
6
6
7
8
10
12
12
12
13
16
17
17
18
19
20
22
22
22
26
4.0
ARCHIVED RESULTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
26
5.0
SUMMARY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
27
6.0
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
27
7.0
REFERENCES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
27
APPENDIX A DEFINITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
31
35
TABLES
Table 1.
Table 2.
Table 3.
Table 4.
Table 5.
Table 6.
Table 7.
96-002(1)
iii
18
19
20
21
23
24
25
96-002(1)
iv
1.0
INTRODUCTION
3.1
DOCUMENTATION APPROACH
PURPOSE
96-002(1)
3.0
3.2.2
MATHEMATICAL BACKGROUND
AND DATA ANALYSIS THEORY
3.2.1
Overview
96-002(1)
96-002(1)
Data Segmenting
1
2
where
2 N&
J '
L
2
W(n)t) '
96-002(1)
1
2
1& cos
2Bn
L
,0 # n # L&1
c '
F
Fw
where
F ' Sxx
F
Fw
Fw '
Sxx & w
1/2
1/2
where
F '
1
L&1
L&1
2
j x(j,n) t) &
n'0
L&1
L&1
j x(j,n) t)
n'0
1
2
Fw '
j xw (j,n)t) &
L&1 n'0
1/2
L&1
1/2
j xw(j,n) t)
3.2.6
n'0
Covariance Calculations
N&j
Rj'
1
2
j anan%j&amean
N&j n'1
Sw&xy (M )f) ' 0.5 Sxy (M&1 )f)% 0.5 Sxy (M )f)
M&1
Bjm
% &1
M
kR M
)f '
fNyquist
L&1
2Bmn
L
L&1
1
2)t
3.2.8
&i
1
2 )t
X ((j,m)f) X(j,m)f)
L) t
*X(j,m) f)*2
L)t
2Bmn
L
n'0
X ((j,m)f) Y(j,m)f)
L)t
where
L
2
L&1
m ' 0, 1, 2, ...,
2
m ' 0, 1, 2, ...,
96-002(1)
1
L) t
Fourier Transforms
L&1
2B mn
L
L even
L odd
Cxy(j,m)f) '
Sxx(m)f) '
1
j Sxx(j,m)f)
J j'1
3.2.9
J
Cxy(m)f) '
1
j Cxy(j,m)f)
J j'1
Q xy(m)f) '
1
j Q xy(j,m)f)
J j'1
P2 EDF,
(1.0&")
2
Sxx(f)EDF
P2 EDF,
(1.0%")
2
Conventional wave data analysis with bandaveraging often uses frequency bandwidths within
which one more or one less Fourier frequency may
fall for adjacent bands. This situation occurs when
bandwidths are not multiples of the Fourier
frequency interval. Thus, adjacent bands may have
slightly different degrees of freedom and confidence
intervals. For NDBC wave measurement systems
that employ band-averaging, Fourier frequencies fall
precisely on boundaries between frequency
bands. Spectral and cross-spectral estimates at
96-002(1)
2B
S(f) '
2J
EDF '
1%
0.4(J& 1)
J
2N
M
96-002(1)
S(f,2) '
ao
2
% j [ an cos(n2) % bn sin(n2)]
n'1
1 1
%r1cos[2&21]%r2cos[2(2&22)]
B 2
with
r1 '
1
2
2
a1 % b1
ao
r2 '
1
2
2
a2 % b2
ao
21 ' tan&1
22 '
1
2
1
2
b1
ao '
a1
b2
1
tan&1
a2
2
a1 '
b1 '
a2 '
96-002(1)
Q12
kB
Q13
kB
b2 '
C11
k 2B
2 C23
k 2B
ao '
a1 ' &
b1 ' &
a2 '
C11
(2Bf )4 B
Q12
( 2Bf )2 kB
Q13
( 2Bf )2 kB
b2 '
k 2B
2 C23
k 2B
3.2.11
3B
& 2
2
Wave Parameters
10
Nb
mo ' j C11(f n) df n
Hm0
n'1
TDF
P2 TDF,
1
2
(1.0 % ")
2
P2(TDF,0.05)TDF 1&
2
2
%1.645
9TDF
9TDF
P2(TDF,0.95)TDF 1&
2
2
&1.645
9TDF
9TDF
1
2
1
2
2 j C11(f n)
n'1
N
2
j C11(f n)
n'1
Tp '
1
fp
96-002(1)
(1.0&")
P TDF,
2
Hm0
TDF '
1
2
TDF
11
mo
m1
where Tav is average period. NDBC calculates zerocrossing wave period from the following equation
T zero '
mo
1
2
i ' 0, 1, 2
n'1
3.2.12.1
Overview
3.2.12.2
96-002(1)
m2
mi ' j f ni C11(f n) df n
3.2.12
12
hH
C11 $NC
C11 ' 0
C11 #NC
S
D
cos(A) '
C
D
in which
S'[b21cos(P)%b22sin(P)sin(R)][B1&b10]&
[b11cos(P)&b12sin(P)sin(R)][B2&b20]&
Bez )sin(R)
C'[b22(B1&b10)&b12(B2&b20)]
cos(R)&Bez ) sin(P)cos(R)
sin(A)
cos(A)
96-002(1)
sin(A) '
13
bi1sin(P)&bi2sin(R)'
sin(Atrue)'sin(A)cos(VAR)%cos(A)sin(VAR)
zy'
sin(P)'
sin(Atrue)sin(P) cos(Atrue)sin(R)
&
cos(P)
cos(P)cos(R)
cos(Atrue)sin(P) sin(Atrue)sin(R)
%
cos(P)
cos(P)cos(R)
b22B1&b12B2
)Bez
sin(R)'
b21B1&b11B2
)Bez
96-002(1)
Bez
cos(Atrue)'cos(A)cos(VAR)&sin(A)sin(VAR)
zx'
Bi
n ' nsH % nh
14
where
n
sH
r1 '
) 2
Q12
) 2
% Q13
1/2
and
m2
m 2 1/2
% 2C23
/ C22 % C33
in which
or B,
)
Q13
where
R h ' R hS/R hH
D f," ' 1/2 % r1cos " & "1 % r2cos " & "2 /B
in which
RhS = hull-mooring (h) amplitude response for buoy
pitch and roll (same amplitude response as
buoy slopes, S)
and
)
m 1/2
96-002(1)
1
m
m
m
tan&1 2C23, C22 &C33 %either 0
2
forces and tensions placed on an overall hullmooring system. Considerably better wave
directions are obtained by calculating n as a
function of frequency for each wave record using
linear wave theory.
m 1/2
h
h
Frequency-dependent values of n and R /q
quantify hull-mooring phase and amplitude
responses. As later noted, these parameters are
included in information that is relayed to shore by
NDBC's newest wave measurement system, the
WPM.
3.2.12.4
sH sH
Because sensor responses (R ,n ) are known
and do not vary with time, these responses can be
used to estimate hull-mooring effects (which
implicitly include water depth effects on the
h
mooring), separate from sensor effects. n , which
depends only on hull-mooring responses, is given
by
96-002(1)
16
3.3
ANALYSIS OF DATA
INDIVIDUAL SYSTEMS
3.3.1
Types of Systems
FROM
in which
(3) DACT DWA
(2nbit &2)
log value2 / value1
(5) VEEP WA
(6) WPM
where
GSBP = General Service Buoy Payload
DACT = Data Acquisition and Control Telemetry
VEEP = Value Engineered Environmental Payload
Table 1 summarizes the most important data
collection parameters for these systems. Segment
length is not applicable to the GSBP WDA because
covariance calculations are made for entire data
records. Segment length also is not applicable to
the WPM because entire data records are Fourier
transformed without segmenting. As noted with the
table, systems that do not use analog and/or digital
filters rely on hull filtering of high-frequency waves
to avoid aliasing. This approach works well
because NDBC buoys are large compared to wave
lengths of high-frequency waves that could cause
aliasing. These waves also have negligible energy
for most applications of NDBC wave information. A
3-m-diameter discus buoy has become NDBC's
standard buoy although data covered by this report
have been collected by boat-shaped hulls
approximately 6 m in length (NOMAD buoys),
10-m-diameter discus buoys, and 12-m-diameter
discus buoys. Different sampling rates have been
used. The 1.28-Hz, 1.7066-Hz, and 2.56-Hz rates
were selected to place Fourier frequencies
precisely on frequency band boundaries for
subsequent spectra and cross-spectra calculations.
Differences in Table 1 result in negligible
differences in analysis results for users of NDBC
wave information.
Iencoded &0.5
$
value2
value1
&1
where
C ' 2 2nbit &2
96-002(1)
&1
17
GSBP
WDA
DACT W A
DACT
DWA
DACT
DWA-MO
VEEP WA
WPM
SENSOR(
S)
FIXED
ACC.
FIXED
ACC.
HIPPY 40
AND
3-AXIS
MAG.
FIXED
ACC. AND
3-AXIS
MAG.
FIXED
ACC.
HIPPY 40 AND
3-AXIS MAG. OR
FIXED ACC. AND
3-AXIS MAG.
A-TO-D
BITS
12
12
12
4.5 DIGIT
DECIMAL
12
RECORD
LENGTH
20 MIN
(1200 S)
20 MIN
(1200 S)
20 MIN
(1200 S)
20 MIN
(1200 S)
20 MIN
(1200 S)
40 MIN
(2400 S)
ANALOG
FILTER
0.50 HZ
0.50 HZ
NONE
NONE
0.50 HZ
NONE
SAMPLIN
G RATE
1.50 HZ
2.56 HZ
2.00 HZ
2.00 HZ
1.28 HZ
1.7066 HZ
DIGITAL
FILTER
NONE
NONE
0.39 HZ, 1
HZ
SUBSAMP
LING
0.39 HZ, 1
HZ
SUBSAMP
LING
NONE
NONE
SEGMENT
LENGTH
N/A
100 S
100 S
100 S
100 S
N/A
System abbreviations are defined in the text and the following tables.
A-to-D = analog-to-digital conversion
acc. = accelerometer
mag. = magnetometer. Although a 3-axis magnetometer is used, only bow and starboard components of the measured magnetic field are used
during data analysis.
Half-power frequency is given for low-pass analog filters.
Hippy 40 = Datawell Hippy 40 that can provide: (1) nearly vertical acceleration, pitch, and roll, or (2) nearly vertical displacement (from electronic
double integration of acceleration), pitch, and roll.
Systems that do not use analog and/or digital filters rely on hull filtering of high-frequency waves to avoid aliasing.
3.3.2
GSBP WDA
96-002(1)
18
DACT WA
Magnavox (1986)
Lang (1987)
Steele and Mettlach (1994)
DACT DWA
96-002(1)
20
----------The Datawell Hippy 40 onboard sensor can provide either nearly vertically stabilized acceleration or displacement obtained by
electronic double integration of acceleration. Either output has been used for particular buoy installations. Buoy pitch and roll are also
provided.
96-002(1)
21
DACT DWA-MO
VEEP WA
96-002(1)
WPM
22
96-002(1)
Steele (1990)
Steele, et al. (1992)
Steele and Mettlach (1994)
23
Lang (1987)
Chaffin, et al. (1992)
Steele and Mettlach (1994)
96-002(1)
24
96-002(1)
25
----------1
System is under development (initial field tests completed) and analysis details may change. System can also operate in
nondirectional mode if the only sensor is a fixed accelerometer.
96-002(1)
26
4.0
Additional Information
96-002(1)
ARCHIVED RESULTS
27
7.0
Less comprehensive results are provided in almost
real time every 3 hours to NWS marine forecasters,
NDBC, and others, via NWS communication circuits
after DQA and onshore processing by the NWS
Telecommunications Gateway (NWSTG). Because
of the almost real-time requirement to meet
forecasting needs, NWSTG's DQA is not as
extensive as that performed by NDBC for
information that is permanently archived.
Information is distributed by NWSTG in the
following two message formats: Automation of Field
Operations and Services (AFOS) spectral wave
code format and the WMO FM65-IX WAVEOB code
for reporting higher resolution spectral wave
information (World Meteorological Organization,
1988). An NDBC user's guide for real-time
directional wave information (Earle, 1990) describes
the real-time information and the AFOS message in
detail. NDBC is updating this user's guide to also
cover WAVEOB messages.
5.0
SUMMARY
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
REFERENCES
28
96-002(1)
29
96-002(1)
30
96-002(1)
31
APPENDIX A DEFINITIONS
Units are usually m 2/(Hz-degree) but may be
m2/(Hz-radian). Integration of a directional wave
spectrum over all directions provides the
corresponding nondirectional wave spectrum.
96-002(1)
32
96-002(1)
33
Nb
mr ' j (f n) C11(f n) ) f n
r
n'1
96-002(1)
34
96-002(1)
35
' Q12(a)
' Q13(a)
Q12(a)
Q13(a)
n ' nsH % nh
% C12 (a)
% C13 (a)
sH
Q12(a)
Q13(a)
and
where
nh ' nhH % nhS
W ' Q13(0)
% Q12(0)
in which
z ' X 2 % Y 2 1/2
b ' tan&1(Y,X)
X ' Q13(0)
& Q12(0)
and
m
a0 ' b/2
If both sides of these equations are transformed to
the frequency domain, and heave/slope co-spectra
and quadrature spectra in the rotated frame of
reference are formed, the results are
96-002(1)
36
' 0 '
m
&Q13 (a0)sin(n)
m
% C m(a )cos n
m
C13 (a0)cos(n)
m
% C m(a )sin n
n ' tan
m
C13 (a0)
m
Q13(a0)
% 0 or B
% tan&1 y/x
n ' n
To remove the B ambiguity, the n frame of
96-002(1)
37