ALLIGATORING

Patterned cracking in the surface of the paint film resembling the regular scales of an
alligator.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Application of an extremely hard, rigid coating, like an alkyd enamel, over a

more flexible coating, like a latex primer.

Application of a top coat before the undercoat is dry.

Natural aging of oil-based paints as temperatures fluctuate. The constant
expansion and contraction results in a loss of paint film elasticity.

SOLUTION:

Old paint should be completely removed by scraping and sanding the surface;
a heat gun can be used to speed work on large surfaces, but take care to
avoid igniting paint or substrate. The surface should be primed with high
quality latex or oil-based primer, then painted with a top quality exterior latex
paint.

Paint Defects

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BLISTERING
Bubbles resulting from localized loss of adhesion, and lifting of the paint film from
the underlying surface.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Painting a warm surface in direct sunlight.

Application of oil-based or alkyd paint over a damp or wet surface.

Moisture escaping through the exterior walls (less likely with latex paint than
with oil-based or alkyd paint).

Exposure of latex paint film to dew, high humidity or rain shortly after paint
has dried, especially if there was inadequate surface preparation.

SOLUTION:

If blisters go down to the substrate: try to remove the source of moisture.

Repair loose caulking; consider installing vents or exhaust fans. Remove
blisters (see Below).

If blisters do not go all the way down to the substrate: remove them by
scraping, then sanding, prime bare wood and repaint with a quality latex
exterior paint.

Paint Defects

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CHALKING
Formation of fine powder on the surface of the paint film during weathering which
can cause color fading. Although some degree of chalking is a normal, desirable way
for a paint film to wear, excessive film erosion can result from heavy chalking.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Use of a low-grade, highly pigmented paint.

Use of an interior paint for an outdoor application.

SOLUTION:

First, remove as much of the chalk residue as possible, scrubbing with a stiff
bristle brush (or wire brush on masonry) and then rinse thoroughly; or use
power washing equipment. Check for any remaining chalk by running a hand
over the surface after it dries. If noticeable chalk is still present, apply a
quality oil-based or acrylic latex primer (or comparable sealer for masonry),
then repaint with a quality exterior coating; if little or no chalk remains and
the old paint is sound, no priming is necessary.

Paint Defects

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CHALK RUN-DOWN
The washing down of chalk from an excessively eroding paint onto another area
below (a brick foundation, for example), ruining its appearance (see Chalking).
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Use of a lower quality, highly pigmented paint.

Use of an interior paint for an outdoor application.

Erosion of factory-finished metal siding.

SOLUTION:

Remove as much of the chalk residue as possible (see Chalking). Scrub any
stained areas with a stiff brush, using a detergent solution; rinse thoroughly.
In cases of severe staining, an acid wash may be necessary. Either way, if the
affected area dries to a different color, consider painting it with a quality latex
paint. Eroding aluminum siding should be thoroughly cleaned (power washing
recommended) before painting with a quality exterior latex paint.

Paint Defects

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CRACKING / FLAKING
The splitting of a dry paint film through at least one coat, which will lead to complete
failure of the paint. Early on, the problem appears as hairline cracks; later, flaking of
paint chips occurs.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Use of a lower quality that has inadequate adhesion and flexibility.

Overthinning the paint or spreading it too thin.Poor surface preparation,

especially when the paint is applied to bare wood without priming.

Painting under cool or windy conditions that make latex paint dry too fast.

SOLUTION:

It may be possible to correct cracking that does not go down to the substrate
by removing the loose or flaking paint with a scraper or wire brush, sanding
to feather the edges, priming any bare spots and repainting.

If the cracking goes down to the substrate remove all of the paint by
scraping, sanding and/or use of a heat gun; then prime and repaint with a
quality exterior latex paint.

Paint Defects

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DIRT PICKUP
Accumulation of dirt, dust particles and/or other debris on the paint film; may
resemble mildew.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Use of a low quality paint, especially lower grades of satin or semigloss.

Soil splashing onto siding.

Air pollution, car exhaust and flying dust collecting on house body and
horizontal trim.

SOLUTION:

Wash off all surface dirt before priming and painting, using a scrub brush and
detergent solution, followed by a thorough rinsing with a garden hose.
Heavier dirt accumulations may require the use of a power washer. While dirt
pickup can't be eliminated entirely, top quality exterior latex paints typically
offer superior dirt pickup resistance and washability. Also, higher gloss paints
are more resistant to dirt pickup than flat paints, which are more porous and
can more easily entrap dirt.

Paint Defects

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EFFLORESCENCE / MOTTLING
Crusty, white salt deposits, leached from mortar or masonry as water passes through
it.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Failure to adequately prepare surface by removing all previous efflorescence.

Excess moisture escaping through the exterior masonry walls from behind.

SOLUTION:

If excess moisture is the cause, eliminate the source by repairing the roof,
cleaning out gutters and downspouts, and sealing any cracks in the masonry
with a high quality, water-based all-acrylic or siliconized acrylic caulk. If moist
air is originating inside the building, consider installing vents or exhaust fans,
especially in kitchen, bathroom and laundry areas. Remove the efflorescence
and all other loose material with a wire brush, power brush or power washer;
then thoroughly rinse the surface. Apply a quality water-based or solventbased masonry sealer or primer, and allow it to dry completely; then apply a
coat of top quality exterior house paint, masonry paint or elastomeric wall
coating.

Paint Defects

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FADING / POOR COLOR RETENTION

Premature and/or excessive lightening of the paint color, which often occurs on
surfaces with sunny southern exposure. Fading/poor color retention can also be a
result of chalking of the coating.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Use of an interior grade of paint for an outdoor application.

Use of a lower quality paint, leading to rapid degradation (chalking) of the

paint film.

Use of a paint color that is particularly vulnerable to UV radiation (most

notably certain bright reds, blues, and yellows).

Tinting a white paint not intended for tinting, or overtinting a light or medium
paint base.

SOLUTION:

When fading/poor color retention is a result of chalking, it is necessary to

remove as much of the chalk as possible (see Chalking). In repainting, be
sure to use a quality exterior house paint in colors recommended for exterior
use.

Paint Defects

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FROSTING
A white, salt-like substance on the paint surface. Frosting can occur on any paint
color, but it is less noticeable on white paint or lighter tints. On masonry, it can be
mistaken for efflorescence (see Efflorescence and Mottling).
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Forms mostly in protected areas (such as under eaves and on porch ceilings)
that do not receive the cleansing action of rain, dew and other moisture.

Use of dark-colored paints that have been formulated with calcium carbonate
extender.
Application of a dark-colored paint over a paint or primer containing calcium
carbonate extender.

SOLUTION:

Frosting can be a stubborn problem. It often cannot be washed off readily.

Moreover, the condition can recur even as a bleed-through when a new top
coat is applied. In extreme cases, it can interfere with adhesion. The best
remedy is to remove the frosting by wirebrushing masonry or sanding wood
surfaces; rinse, then apply an alkyd-based primer before adding a coat of
high quality exterior paint.

Paint Defects

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LAPPNG
Appearance of a denser color or ligher gloss where wet and dry layers overlap during
paint application.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Failure to maintain a "wet edge" when applying paint.

SOLUTION:

Maintain a wet edge when painting by applying paint toward the unpainted
area and then back into the just painted surface. This technique (brushing
from "wet to dry" rather than vice versa) will produce a smooth uniform
appearance. It is also wise to minimize the area being painted, and plan for
interruptions at a natural break, such as a window, door or corner (especially
important when applying stain to bare wood). Alkyd paints generally have
superior wet edge properties.

Paint Defects

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MILDEW
Black, gray or brown areas of fungus growth on the surface of paint or caulk.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Forms most often on areas that tend to be damp, and receive little or no
direct sunlight (walls with a northerly exposure and the underside of eaves
are particularly vulnerable).

Use of a lower quality paint, which may have an insufficient amount of

mildewcide.

Failure to prime bare wood before painting.

Painting over a substrate or coating on which mildew has not been removed.

SOLUTION:

Test to distinguish mildew from dirt by applying a few drops of household

bleach to the discolored area; if it disappears, it is probably mildew. Treat the
mildew by applying a mixture of water and bleach, 3:1, and leave on for 20
minutes, applying more as it dries. Wear goggles and rubber gloves. Then
scrub and rinse the area. Apply an exterior latex primer, then a top-of- theline exterior latex paint in flat, satin, semigloss or gloss finish, depending on
the desired appearance.

Paint Defects

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NAILHEAD RUSTING
Reddish-brown stains and spots on the paint surface.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Non-galvanized iron nails have begun to rust, causing bleed-through to the

top coat.

Non-galvanized iron nails have not been countersunk and filled over.

Galvanized nailheads have begun to rust after sanding or excessive

weathering.

SOLUTION:

When painting new exterior construction where non-galvanized nails have

been used, it is advisable to first countersink the nailheads, then caulk them
with a top quality, waterbased all-acrylic or siliconized acrylic caulk. Each
nailhead area should be spot primed, then painted with a quality latex
coating. When repainting exteriors where nailhead rusting has occurred, wash
off rust stains, sand the nailheads, then follow the same surface preparation
procedures as for new construction.

Paint Defects

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PAINT INCOMPATIBILITY
Loss of adhesion where many old coats of alkyd or oil-based paint receive a latex top
coat.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Use of water-based latex paint over more than three or four coats of old alkyd
or oil-based paint may cause the old paint to "lift off" the substrate.

SOLUTION:

Repaint using another coat of alkyd or oil-based paint. Or completely remove

the existing paint and prepare the surface - cleaning, sanding and spotpriming where necessary - before repainting with a top quality latex exterior
paint.

Paint Defects

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PEELING
Loss of paint due to poor adhesion. Where there is a primer and top coat, or multiple
coats of paint, peeling may involve some or all coats.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Seepage of moisture through uncaulked joints, worn caulk or leaks in roof or

walls.

Excess moisture escaping through the exterior walls (more likely if paint is oilbased).

Inadequate surface preparation.

Use of lower quality paint.

Applying an oil-based paint over a wet surface.

Earlier blistering of paint (see Blistering).

SOLUTION:

Try to identify and eliminate source of moisture. Prepare surface by removing

all loose paint with scraper or stiff wire brush, sand rough edges, and apply
appropriate primer. Repaint with a top quality acrylic latex exterior paint for
best adhesion and water resistance.

Paint Defects

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POOR ALKALI RESISTANCE

Color loss and overall deterioration of paint film on fresh masonry.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Oil-based paint or vinyl acrylic latex paint was applied to new masonry that
has not cured for a full year. Fresh masonry is likely to contain lime which is
very alkaline. Until the lime has a chance to react with carbon dioxide from
the air, the alkalinity of the masonry remains so high that it can attack the
integrity of the paint film.

SOLUTION:

Allow masonry surfaces to cure for at least 30 days, and ideally for a full year,
before painting. If this is not possible, the painter should apply a quality,
alkali-resistance sealer or latex primer, followed by a top quality 100 percent
acrylic latex exterior paint. The acrylic binder in these paints resists alkali
attack.

Paint Defects

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POOR GALVANIZED METAL ADHESION

Paint that has lost its adhesion to a galvanized metal substrate.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Improper surface preparation, such as inadequate rust removal.

Failure to apply a primer before application of an oil-based or vinyl latex

paint.

Failure to sand baked-on enamel finishes or glossy surfaces before painting.

SOLUTION:

Any rust on the metal should be removed with a wire brush; then, an acrylic
latex corrosion-inhibitive primer should be applied (one coat is usually
sufficient). Previously painted galvanized metal that is completely rust-free
can be painted without applying a primer. A latex metal primer should be
applied to unpainted galvanized metal, followed by a top quality exterior
acrylic latex paint.

Paint Defects

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POOR GLOSS RETENTION

Deterioration of the paint film, resulting in execessive or rapid loss of luster of the
top coat.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Use of an interior paint outdoors.

Use of a lower quality paint.

Use of a gloss alkyd or oil-based paint in areas of direct sunlight.

SOLUTION:

Direct sunshine can degrade the binder and pigment of a paint, causing it to
chalk and lose its gloss. While all types of paint will lose some degree of luster
over tim, lower quality paints will generally lose gloss much earlier than better
grades. The binder in top quality acrylic latex paints is especially resistance to
UV radiation, while oil and alkyd binders actually absorb the radiation, causing
the binders to break down. Surface preparation for a coating showing poor
gloss retention should be similar to that used for chalking surfaces (see
Chalking).

Paint Defects

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SURFACTANT LEACHING
Concentration of water-soluble ingredients on latex paint, creating a blotchy,
sometimes glossy appearance, often with a tan or brownish cast. More likely with
tinted paints than with white or factory-colored paints.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Painting in cool, humid conditions or just before they occur. The longer drying
time allows the paint's water-soluble ingredients - which would normally
evaporate, or be leached out by rain or dew - to rise to the surface before
paint thoroughly dries.

Mist, dew or other moisture drying on the painted surface shortly after it has
dried.

SOLUTION:

Avoid painting in the late afternoon if cool, damp conditions are expected in
the evening or overnight. If the problem occurs in the first day or so after the
paint is applied, the water-soluble material can sometimes be rinsed off rather
easily. Fortunately, even more stubborn cases will generally weather off in a
month or so. Sufactant leaching should not affect the ultimate durability of
the coating.

Paint Defects

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TANNIN STAINING
Brownish or tan discoloration on the paint surface due to migration of tannins from
the substrate through the paint film. Typically occurs on "staining woods," such as
redwood, cedar and mahogany, or over painted knots in certain other wood species.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Failure to adequately prime and seal the surface before applying the paint.

Use of a primer that is not sufficiently stain-resistant.

Excess moisture escaping through the exterior walls, which can carry the
stain to the paint surface.

SOLUTION:

Correct any possible sources of excess moisture (see Efflorescence and

Mottling). After thoroughly cleaning the surface, apply a high quality stainresistant oil-based or acrylic latex primer. Oil-based stain-resistant primers
are the best type to use on severely staining boards. In extreme cases, a
second coat of primer can be applied after the first has died thoroughly. Finish
with a top quality latex paint.

Paint Defects

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VINYL SIDING WARP

Warping or buckling of vinyl siding panels that have been repainted.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Most likely cause is that vinyl siding was painted with a darker color paint
than the original color. Dark paint tends to absorb the heat of the sun,
transferring it to the substrate. When vinyl siding expands dramatically, it is
not able to contract to its original dimensions.

SOLUTION:

Paint vinyl siding in a shade no darker than the original. Whites, off-whites,
pastels and other very light colors are good choices. Top quality acrylic latex
paint is the best type of paint to use on vinyl siding, because the superior
flexibility of the paint film enables it to withstand the stress of expansion and
contraction cycles cause by outdoor temperature changes.

Siding that has warped or buckled should be assessed by a siding or home

repaint contractor to determine the best remedy. The siding may have to be
replaced.

Paint Defects

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WAX BLEED
Stains that come from waxy substance in the reconstituted wood products used to
make hardboard siding. When the substrate is painted, these staining substances
bleed through the paint; they can even bleed through some ordinary primers,
possibly causing dirt pickup, mildew and/or poor paint adhesion (see Dirt Pickup and
Mildew).
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Failure to apply a proper primer to hardboard before applying the top coat.

Allowing hardboard siding to weather before being painted.

SOLUTION:

To treat or prevent, apply a quality exterior acrylic latex primer; follow with a
coat of high quality exterior acrylic latex paint. The American Hardboard
Association recommends two coat of top quality acrylic exterior house paint
for best results. Some hardboard grades have adequate factory primer and
need only a quality paint applied. Low quality, highly pigmented flat paints are
more prone to wax bleed than are higher quality paints.

Paint Defects

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WRINKLING
A rough, crinkled paint surface occurring when paint forms a "skin."
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Paint applied too thickly (more likely when using alkyd or oil-based paints).

Painting a hot surface or in very hot weather.

Exposure of uncured paint to rain, dew, fog or high humidity levels.

Applying top coat of paint to insufficiently dried first coat. Painting over
contaminated surface (e.g., dirt or wax).

SOLUTION:

Scrape or sand substrate to remove wrinkled coating. Repaint, applying an

even coat of top quality exterior paint. Make sure the first coat or primer is
dry before applying the top coat. Apply paints at the manufacturer's
recommended spread rate (two coats at the recommended spread rate are
better than one thick coat). When painting during extremely hot, cool or
damp weather, allow extra time for the paint to dry completely.

Paint Defects

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