Picard Easel

I hope you find this to be empowering, exciting, economical and fun. I give these plans with no
intended cost to anyone who wishes to use them. I do however ask that you use them for personal
growth (or educational purposes) and not for commercial, wealth building. So go ahead, build one
for your studio, have a workshop for students, build one with a friend . . . just dont let me find you
selling them on ebay or the like (We already have too many fat cats and middle men bleeding artists
dry, while we do all the work!)

This Easel is simple to make, easy to use and quite economical. If I remember correctly, it cost me
approximately $50 - 60 to make, and I even used Poplar wood instead of cheap pine. The price may
vary according to location (as most people are aware that lumber IN New York City is easily double what
you would pay in the mid-west.) Also, I tend to have an assortment of screws laying around, so I dont
always factor that in. That being said, you can always alter the plans and substitute lumber for a different
cost and more suitable functionality for your requirements. If you do, just remember that the dimensions
of other lumber, may affect your overall measurments (all my lumber was 1x3s and 1x2s or in actual measure:
3/4x 2 1/2 and 3/4x 1 1/2)
 BASE
11 3/4

19
6 On center
Mounting
Plate

do not drill into top or bottom

pipes

beam, only drill through mounting

60

plate. Measured to the center

of each hole.
84

61 from top
to center
of bottom
board. Best
to wait until
you are ready
to mount the
pipe assembly
to ensure
a snug fit
before securing 1
the bottom
19 board

three holes
that are 1

33
from the edge
of the board 28
starting at 28
19 from the base
of the frame
(holes 1 apart)

19

4 from
end to
bolt for
2 arm

hin tilt
und ges Hinge
4 ers
ide

22

side view of base 4

19

4 2
 TOP PlATE
engaging blocks
(green arrows)
The most important
part of this mechanism
is how the front and
back pieces engage the

9 1
pipes. Make sure the

/2
blocks that touch the

5
7
7
sides are straight and

5

level. They should fit
tight to the pipe. The
measured span (noted in red
triangles) for these
WILL have to be adjusted
to fit the pipes exaclty. (so build
15 2 1/2

15
this assembly AFTER the base)
I actually clamped the piece (back
or front) I was working on too the
base/pipes to ensure such a fit. Side Angle View
This allowed me to engage those blocks
right up against the pipe while the glue
was drying.
9 1/2 1 1/2

Back Piece The top and bottom

plates share many of the
same measurements. The
only major difference
is the bottom one is made
Front Piece to have a pencil shelf
4
and is a little wider. If
for some reason, there is
a measurement missing on one
it is likely the same on the
other.

Front View

Washers

Knob Bolt

Once I ensured the bolt and spring

were functioning properly, I epoxied
the back portion of the bolt into the
side view Spring back piece so that it wouldnt spin
when I cranked on the knob
 1 1/2 BOTTOM PlATE

dont need this bottom piece

TOP VIEW

9 1
/2
20 1/2

Side Angle
View

5
7
shimmed out 1/8th inch to allow
for side of frame to travel freely
(used plank of woud, maybe
4 some washers or a shim will work)
Note: the distances in
red may vary slightly
it is recommended to test
fit these blocks against
the poles to ensure a snug
fit before securing them
to the rest of the clamp
2 1/2

mechanism (Blocks are

in Green) These blocks
should essentially become
guides to slide up and down
the rails (poles)

Front View

I dont have all the measurements written on each view, but collectively you can get almost all
the measurements necessary. I should have a measurement listed in one spot or another, or it
is also possible the measurement may not be important. (remember, the board stock I used is a
typical 1 x 3 board . . . in actual reality this would be 3/4 x 2 1/2 if you measure it)
blame the timber industry for this confusion - the whole measurement is before they plane the wood
down and thats what they sell it under, whereas the REAL measurement is after they plane it down, so
its acruate to what you are actually buying and building with (hence 3/4 thick by 2 1/2 wide)
Outer blocks ride the rails on front the piece Note the gap
even when it
is closed. The
Front and back
never touch
eachother, just
the bar

Inner blocks ride the rails on the back piece

I just thought it might help to have some photos

showing the mechanism on the pipes in a closed
position as well as the front and back sepparated.
It may also help to tell you that when it comes
to setting the pipes, I used two blocks of
wood (one at the top, one at the bottom) to keep
the pipes equal distance apart as the glue dried.
(The holes in the plate leave a little wiggle room)
Youll have to ensure the blocks are the same size.

Closing thoughts
Ive thought about how to improve on this plan, but havent had the motivation to do so. One
thing that would work better is if the guides were rollers or bearings of some sort. So far
everything Ive looked at has been pricey and not worth it. Ive also thought that instead of
using conduit for the pipes, I could have used wood (untested for glide and it may warp over
time) or perhaps polished chrome pipes like youd see for closet rod. I didnt use this
because I only found larger diameters and it costs quite a bit more. Maybe polishing the
pipes or waxing the wood will give a better glide - who knows if that will effect its gripping
power?

Speaking of waxing or polishing . . . it would be a good idea to finish the wood with some
paint, clear coat, wax or other finish to prevent the wood from absorbing moisture and
possibly warping. Just dont apply paint or stain to the blocks that engage the pipes or
they will surely bind up! maybe some furniture polish for those (but test it first, or be
willing to sand it off if it binds up)
 Materials List
Wood boards 1X3 8 = 5
Wood boards 1x2 8 = 2 (or 1 plus a little extra)
screws (self tapping) 1 1/4 = one box
Hex Bolts 4 long (match thread size to knobs) = 2
Knobs (matched to bolts) = 2
epoxy (any, jb weld is good)
small hex bolts for tilt arms 2or 2 1/4 = 4
hex nut for tilt arm bolt = 2
knobs for tilt arm bolt (match to bolt) = 2
fender washers for plate assembly (large - must fit bolt)= 8
smaller washers for tilt arm = 12 ish (I think)
1 electrical conduit = one 10 length or two 5 lenghts
springs 1+ (1 1/4 length maybe?) = 2
feet for base = 4 (may use adjustable ones if you like)
hinges = 2
wood glue
wax, clear coat, paint or other if desired
I cheated on the pencil shelf (ikea had something, but molding might work)

22 base 19 cross 19 cross 19 cross 11 3/4 tp

84 (side of frame) 9 1/2 plate

84 (side of frame) 9 1/2 plate

22 base 19 cross 19 cross 19 cross 11 3/4 bp

15 top front 20 1/2 bottom fr9 1/2 plate 9 1/2 plate 20 1/2 pencil

33 tilt arm 33 tilt arm 20 1/2 bottom lip

15 top lip
use extra as blocks for plates.

TOOLS:
Saw (may be a simple hand miter box all the way up to a electric miter saw)
drill and assorted bits (will need a large paddle bit for drilling holes for conduit 1 and
some for drilling holes for bolts to go through in both the plates and the tilt arm)
tape measure
builders square (very useful to make your corners square)
level (to make sure your top and bottom plates are level and square
screw driver/ screw gun or screw bit for drill
rachet, wrench or pliers for hex bolts
pipe clamps, strap clamps or a friends hands to hold things while joining them
2 clamps for clamping plate pieces to blocks while the glue dries (5 or 6 clamp will do)

that should do it!