From Flat To Fab Pattern Metals With The Economy Compact Rolling Mill PDF

Copyright 2011 Wired Lotus Page: 1
Patterning Metals Lesson

Created by Susan Barzacchini
wiredlotus.com
This lesson, intended for the intermediate jewelry artist, will pave the pathway to making
new discoveries in patterning sheet metal using the economy compact rolling mill. It is
written from first hand experience and includes specific examples. While it is not
specifically project based, it does assist the reader in finding a new comfort level with
working with a rolling mill. Learning the techniques outlined in this lesson will expand
creative horizons and the results will take your jewelry fabrication to a new level.
Copyright 2011 Susan Barzacchini, WiredLotus.com. All rights reserved. These instructions are for personal use
only. Please do not distribute, lend or copy any portion of this document. Reproduction and or distribution of these
instructions in whole or in part, in any form, without the author's written consent, are strictly prohibited. This tutorial is
presented solely as an educational tool; and to hold Susan Barzacchini free of any and all claims. You may make this
project for limited sale, but do not mass produce, or claim it as your design. Please give credit where credit is due, it is
the right thing to do.
Supplies:
*Economy compact rolling mill
*Sturdy table to bolt machine on
*Machine bolts
*Drill and bits
*Wrench
*Light machine oil, like 3-in-One
*Soft cloth or paper towels
*fabric grocery bag or pillow case to cover machine when not in use
*Non ferrous sheet metal, such as sterling silver or copper, 24-20 gauge (Several square inches)
*24 gauge soft copper sheet (several square inches)
*Patterns (patterns can be punched cardstock, patterned brass, leaves with deep veins, low relief
laser paper, plastic potato bag, lace, patterned fabric, burlap or sandpaper)
*4 or more sheets of 80 pound cardstock or two manila folders
*Metal sheers or heavy kitchen/craft scissors
Optional Items:
*Butane torch
*triple filtered fuel
*fire brick or other heat proof surface intended for soldering
*pickle
*liver of sulfur or other patina solution
*micro fine sanding sponge or 0000 steel wool if using liver of sulfur or patina
*feeler gauge (for realigning the rollers)
*rawhide mallet and flat wooden surface or anvil
Sheet metal is virtually our canvas and the rolling mill

is our tool. It is up to us to make it into a work of
ART
Please read this entire lesson thoroughly before starting your first project.
The Rolling Mill Functions

The Rolling mill has numerous functions including,
but not limited to, reducing non-ferrous metal
ingots into sheet, reducing wire and sheet, fold
forming, changing wire shape, mokume Gane,
metal compression and patterning. This document
focuses exclusively on creating patterns with the
economy compact rolling mill. Pattern variations
are endless and add interest and dimension to
metals. During this process metals are decreased
in thickness and increased in length, while the
width essentially remains the same.
Bringing Home Your Rolling Mill

There are some considerations to be given before
choosing a rolling mill. This is a heavy and large
tool and there will need to be allotted space for
bolting it down to a sturdy table or commercial
rolling mill stand. Rolling mill prices vary
significantly based on the quality, features, size,
function, complexity and manufacturer of the
rolling mill. The intended use of the mill should
be factored when making your selection. For
example, I was interested in patterning metals for
small jewelry items with the mill and felt that the
economy compact mill would be well suited for my
use. This has worked well for me.
Anatomy of the Compact Rolling Mill

The top handle and left and right indexing
gears These are located at the uppermost section
of the rolling mill and adjust the two rollers
(barrels). Some models of rolling mills have a T
bar handle and others have a circular handle like a
car driving wheel. By turning this handle either
clockwise or counterclockwise the two mill rollers
separate or close. When you have become
familiar with using this handle note which way
your mill upper handle needs to be turned to open
your rollers. Making note of this will help you with
ease of use each time you use the machine. Each
time an item is milled an adjustment will need to
be made with this top handle. With my machine I
have drawn an arrow on the gear to indicate
which direction I need to turn the handle.
The rollers are located in the middle of the

machine and are the portion of the mill that
elongates, flattens and compresses the metal.
The rollers propel the metal forward and backward
depending on how the side handle is rotated.
The sides operating handle and side gear is

what actuates the rolling motion of the rollers.
When standing in front of the machine and turning
the handle away from you, the rollers will move
the metal forward (front to back) through the
machine. Turning the handle towards you will
move the metal backward (back to front).
The Machine Bolts

The machine will have bolt holes in the base for
which to bolt down the machine. It is an
important standard of safety to bolt down the
machine onto a sturdy well built table or
commercial rolling mill stand. The machine bolts
that came with my machine were approximately
four inches in length. In this photo you can see
the front bolt and a blurred back bolt.
The back shelf is located at the rear of the

machine. After the metal has been milled it will fall
off of the rollers and onto this shelf. This is
particularly useful when using a rolling mill stand
and need a place for the metal to eject.
The specifications of each economy compact rolling mill

Mill specifications vary. To help you to understand those details I will use
my rolling mill as an example.
Overall dimension:
Height: 12 inches (30.5 centimeters)
Width: 8.5 inches (21.6 centimeters)
Roller length: 76mm
Roller width: 43mm
Other specifications Include:

Maximum thickness of metal it will
accommodate. For my machine that is
3mm maximum thickness. For your
reference, 18 gauge is approximately 1mm.
Weight. My machine weighs around 45
pounds (20.4 kilograms)
Gear reduction. My machine has a gear
reduction of 4:1 (this is covered below)
Gear Reduction
Gear Reduction is the number of times it takes for
the two rollers to go around one time with multiple
turns of the side handle. With no gear reduction
the rollers roll around one full revolution for each
one full turn of the side handle. With a 4:1 gear
reduction, as with my rolling mill, it takes four
turns of the handle for one full revolution of the
rollers. This reduction decreases the amount of
pressure and fatigue while turning the side handle.
Unpacking and setting up the rolling mill
Unpacking the mill after it arrives

My economy rolling mill arrived in a thick
cardboard box packed with shreds of papers. It is
heavy at nearly 50 pounds (23 kilograms). The
gears, rollers and frame were coated in a thick
layer of grease. I removed that grease with a soft
cloth and paper towels, but no water. Water and
soap can cause rust to the vital components of the
rolling mill. Never use water or water based
cleaning products on the machine, because once
the rollers rust they will need to be ground down
by the manufacturer for repair or be replaced.
My machine required very little assembly. The top

gear handle needed to be slipped into the top hole
(seen in the photo). The side handle was secured
with a bolt and washer, the rollers were separated
so that the protective plastic coating could be
removed from the rollers and the entire machine
was bolted to the table.
Bolting the rolling mill to the table

Once the mill is out of the box and free of the
factory grease, then it needs to be bolted to a
sturdy and level table or a rolling mill stand. In
this photo you can see the support that my mill
has with a thick wooden table with leg braces
which supports the weight of the heavy mill. The
machine should be placed on the table and the side
handle assembled with the washer and bolt into
the shaft gear. This is done before bolting the
machine to the table, so that adjustments can be
made in the event that there is not proper
clearance of a full rotation of the handle in front
and behind the machine. Traffic flow is also a
consideration in placement of the mill, as the
handle does stick out a bit. In this photo you can
see how I have nothing in front or behind my mill
handle. Also make sure that the positioning of the
mill allows for the extracted materials to be
extruded from the back of the machine. Once
those things have been determined and you are
happy with the placement of your rolling mill,
then:
Trace the inside bolt holes to your table
with a permanent marker.
Remove the mill and use an appropriate
sized drill bit (comparable to the bolt size)
and electric drill to make a hole into the
table where you traced your bolt holes.
Replace the rolling mill on the table where
it was before and line up the machine bolt
holes to the freshly drilled holes into the
table.
Insert the bolts through the machine base
and holes of the table.
Secure the bolts with a ratchet or wrench.
Finish the assembly by attaching the top gear
handle. Some machines may have additional
features which require a different assembly.
Always follow the manufacturers instructions.
Caring for the rolling mill
The rolling mill is subject to dust and room

particles which rest on the rollers. The rollers will
impart these particles onto your annealed metal if
not cared for properly. For this reason it is
essential that the machine be covered when not in
use. In this photo you can see that I have covered
the mill with a cloth grocery bag to prevent dust
from settling onto the mill. A cloth pillow case or
rolling mill cover can also be used. Plastic covering
is not recommended due to possible condensation
accumulation on the rollers, which may cause rust.
Other ways to care for your mill include:

When the machine is not in use, lubricate the
mill rollers with light machine oil such at 3-in-
One and a soft cloth or paper towel. Rotate
the rollers by turning the side handle when
applying the oil to coat the entire surface of
both rollers. (as seen in this photo)
Dont touch the mill rollers. Skin oils left on
the rollers can cause pits in the surface of the
rollers.
Use only non ferrous metals in the rolling mill.
These metals are soft and wont harm the
rolling mill rollers. Using steel in the mill can
impart a permanent pattern onto the rollers.
Keep all liquids away from the rolling mill
table, including pickle, which can leave small
marks.
Release roller pressure when not using the
rolling mill by setting the roller gap to around
1/8th of an inch (4mm).
Safety:
Pull shirt sleeves up when using the mill
Secure long hair
Remove long necklaces and bracelets
Pull fingers away from metal once metal
engages the rollers.
Wear flat comfortable shoes for good
balance
Dont try to force heavy and thick objects
and metals through a narrow opening in
the mill, as this can cause strain on the mill
and table causing roller mechanism and
table damage.
Realigning the rollers of the mill If you notice that your metals are curving to one
side or the pattern is imprinting heavier on one
side than the other, then your rollers may be
misaligned. If your rollers are misaligned, then
they can be realigned to a parallel position
following the manufacturers instructions.
In this photo the left side of the rollers is

narrower.
Adjustment needs to be made with these rollers
for even roller mill printing.
In this photo the rollers have been realigned

and the gap between them is more even.
Read below how to do this.
Steps that I use to realign rollers on my

mill:
(Note that your mill may need to be realigned
differently. In that case, refer to your
manufacturers directions.)
Step 1:
The top T handle is lifted straight up and out
and set aside.
Step 2:
The left and right index gears are manually
turned clockwise until the mill rollers nearly
touch. Both of the indexing gears are turned
counterclockwise a half turn. A feeler gauge
or perfectly flat piece of metal is used to
check spacing between the rollers. A feeler
gauge is slid from side to side along the
rollers. If the gauge slips through one side,
but not the other, then on the side where the
roller is more open the gear needs to be
adjusted slightly counterclockwise. This is
continued until the rollers are perfectly
parallel.
Step 3:
The top T handle is replaced and the rolling mill
is ready for use.
Types of metals safe to use in the

rolling mill
Annealed soft non-ferrous metals can be used

in the rolling mill. The two that I use most
frequently are sterling silver and copper. It is
recommended that the metals be annealed,
pickled, rinsed (if pickle is not rinsed well it
will etch pit marks into the rollers) and
thoroughly dried before engaging into a rolling
mill for patterning, especially when using a
slight pattern such as a leaf or feather. There
are times when I have used soft copper sheet
that has not been annealed with good results
when using a patterned brass plate or paper
punches from heavy cardstock. For pattern
milling I recommend using sheet metal in
gauges 24-20 and up to 18 gauge if using a
patterned brass strip.
Annealing metal allows for the molecular structure

of the metal to relax, thus allowing for a pattern
to be readily imprinted onto the metal. A torch
and firebrick is used to anneal. The torch I use is
a hand held butane torch that has a bushy flame
great for annealing. I have had several butane
torches and find that when I use tripled filtered
butane I get a cleaner burn and the valve remains
patent.
Annealing process
The metal to be annealed in put on a
firebrick or an annealing pan.
The room lights are dimmed to assure an
appropriate color change during annealing.
The torch is lit and a large bushy flame is
produced.
The flame is moved back and forth in a
constant steady movement over the metal.
Once the metal begins turning a slight
orange glow, then the heat is removed as
in this photo.
The metal is quenched in a water bath.
The metal is pickled in a mild acid pickle
solution and then rinsed.
The metal is thoroughly dried and is now
ready to accept a pattern in the rolling mill.
Tip: After rolling the metal through the rolling
mill the metal will be hardened again and if
further forming is needed to be performed on the
metal, such as forming or dapping in a dapping
block.
Tip: When dapping the milled patterned metal in
a dapping block, use a wooden block and wooden
dapping tool, not steel. The wood block helps to
preserve the pattern of the metal.
Rolling mill sandwich
Basic one metal mill sandwich

Making a mill sandwich is the best way to cushion
your metal to easily accept a pattern and to
protect your rolling mill rollers. The amount of
material that I use with my mill sandwiches
depends on the type of pattern that I am using,
the gauge and type of metal, whether or not my
metal has been annealed and the overall results I
am trying to achieve. This photo demonstrates
the order in which I put together my mill sandwich
with the use of only one annealed piece of copper
sheet in the middle (not to be confused with the
two pieces of copper on either end of the
sandwich).
Another view of the basic one metal mill

sandwich
Note that only the piece of metal next to the
pattern will be patterned. The other two pieces of
24 gauge copper are for cushion purposes only.
Two Metal Sandwich

In the two metal sandwich two pieces of
annealed metals are placed on either side of
the pattern and the result is matching patterns.
This is nice for making matching earrings. The
two pieces of copper with the X will both be
imprinted with the purple paper design.
The result of a two metal sandwich

These would make very nice matching earrings.
Layers for a two metal sandwich:

1st layer is 24 gauge soft copper
2nd layer is 80 pound cardstock (or manila
folder)
3rd layer is annealed copper or silver sheet
to be imprinted
4th layer is the pattern
5th layer is annealed copper or silver sheet
to be imprinted
6th layer is 80 pound cardstock (or manila
folder)
7th layer is 24 gauge soft copper
Variations in mill sandwiches

Having said all of that above, making a mill
sandwich can vary from pattern to pattern.
Some patterns, like the patterned brass will take
a pattern very well without added cushions of
copper. Test your own sandwiches and see what
works best for you and gives you the best
pattern.
Here is an example of a pattern variation. I

have used two pieces of high grit sandpaper (X)
on either side of soft copper (M), so that both
sides of the copper (M) will have a gritty
pattern. Note that the 80# cardstock is now on
the outside and the 24 gauge copper cushions
are on the inside. I did this to give added
protection to my mills rollers. Note how large
the sheets of cardstock are. Protect those
rollers always!!
Cutting out the sandwich

The sandwich is cut from the inside out, making
sure that the annealed metal to be imprinted is
the smallest component in the sandwich. If
the cardstock or copper cushions are cut smaller
than the annealed metal to be imprinted, then
there is a good chance that you will see a line of
demarcation on the annealed metal with your
finished piece. I cut my patterned metal with a
jewelry saw and the sandwich metal with sturdy
kitchen sheers.
Putting it all together:

Step by step instructions for making
your first patterned metal
Step 1
Trim pattern edges to the size of the piece you
want to create.
Tip: I do a rough cut of my pattern and

annealed metal, run it through the mill in a
sandwich and then cut the final shape out of the
metal after it has been milled. Lets say I cut a
circle out of the pattern and the annealed metal
before rolling it in the mill. When I roll it
through the mill I run the risk of the circle
becoming an oval due to that elongation I talked
about earlier. Now there are times when this is
desirable, but this is something to consider.
Step 2
Cut the metal to be annealed as the smallest
component. Like the pattern, this is rough cut
and will be cut to the final shape after
patterning.
Step 3
Anneal the metal
Step 4
Make a sandwich out of the pattern, annealed
metal, 24 gauge copper sheet (2) and the
80#cardstock or manila folder (2)
Step 5
Slide the sandwich together and make sure that
all the components are lined up. Remember to
keep the pattern and the annealed metal at the
very center of the sandwich. Pinch the
sandwich and take it to the rolling mill.
Step 6
The rolling mill rollers are opened by turning the
handle at the top of the mill. The sandwich is
inserted into the rollers and the side handle is
turned. If the rollers are too tight to catch the
mill sandwich, then the top handle is turned a
quarter of a turn to loosen the rollers and is
checked again. This process is repeated until
the rollers catch the sandwich.
Inversely, if you take the sandwich to the mill

and the rollers are open too far and the
sandwich can be pushed through the gap
without the use of the side handle, then the
rollers are open too far. The top handle is
turned until the rollers are open just enough to
grab the sandwich.
In this photo you can see how the rollers are

grabbing the sandwich as I turn the side handle
to propel it forward. Remove fingers once metal
grabs.
Step 7
Turn the handle from the front of the machine to
the back to propel the sandwich through the
rolling mill.
Step 8
At the time, the sandwich propels forward through
the rollers with some resistance, but not great
difficulty, then the result should be a nicely milled
pattern. Note that this takes a little bit of muscle to
move the metal sandwich through the rolling mill,
as a great amount of pressure is exerted onto the
metal. Understanding the tension needed on the
rollers for milling is determined by practicing. This
is a case where practice will help you to understand
the feel of the handle tension. This is why I stress
greatly the use of inexpensive non-ferrous base
metal for the first several rolling mill projects.
In this photo the sandwich is coming out the back.

Note how the pattern between the cardstock has
shifted.
Step 9
The metal and pattern sandwich will fall to
the back shelf after being milled. The metal
will slightly curve and the pattern and
cardstock will be rendered useless for
further pattern use, unless using a mill plate
or patterned brass. The copper cushions can
be annealed and used again.
Step 10
The milled metal is patterned and ready for
cutting.
Step 11
A template is used to cut the desired shape out
of the now patterned metal.
Step 12
The patterned and cut out metal is enhanced by
dipping the piece in a bath of liver of sulfur to
give the pattern more definition.
Step 13
The metal is buffed with 0000 steel wool or fine
grit sanding sponge/emery. Here the patterned
metal is made into earrings with little effort.
Distortion of the metal during milling
Here a paper test strip is used to test the

pressure on the rolling mills. The image on the
far left shows too much roller pressure (rollers
too narrow. Note the distortion, elongation,
wrinkling of the metal and the leftward curvature
of the metal. The right photo shows the milled
metal using the paper tests strip using the
correct pressure.
Paper test strip before use
Too little tension/pressure
Here the photos reveal a dried ginkgo leaf that

was milled with the gap in the rollers too
loose. The result is not enough tension on the
metal and a pattern that is not well defined.
This could have been remedied by closing the
rollers more and perhaps adding the copper
cushions to the sandwich.
Curvature of the Metal
During the milling process the entire metal

sandwich follows the curvature of the rollers and
the result is a front to back curvature that is
normal as seen in this photo. If the curvature is
left to right or right to left to right, that is not
normal and considered a distortion due to too
much pressure or misaligned rollers.
Pattern life
What becomes of the patterns after one use?

With the exception of the 24 gauge patterned
brass sheets, the items milled in the rolling mill
are to be discarded, due to the molecular and
fiber distortion of the item during the excessive
pressure put on the piece. In this photo the leaf
and the cardstock have been milled, so are then
discarded.
Tip: This leaf had been dried and pressed in a

book for years before used in the rolling mill. If
live botanicals are used in the rolling mill the
moisture from the plant can rust the rollers.
Sandpaper vs. steel wool after patina
This photo shows the difference in the character of

the metal when using emery/sandpaper and steel
wool. The image on the left (A) has been finished
with a micro-fine sanding sponge and the image on
the right (B) has been finished with steel wool.
Finished pendant with patina
This piece was patterned with a low relief laser

paper pattern, patinaed with liver of sulfur until
dark gray and buffed slightly with 0000 steel
wool. Note the words buffed slightly. Using
any abrasive vigorously or for a prolonged
period of time will compromise the pattern on
the metal and remove the high point detail.
My go-to patterns
My two favorite patterns to use, which gives me

the most significant detail, are 24 gauge
patterned brass (A) and low relief laser pattern
paper (B). I get both of these from online
companies. The low relief patterns can also be
custom designed, which gives the artist the
ability to personalize their work.
Suggested items to use in the

rolling mill for patterns on metal
Feathers, fabric, flat flexible plastic, potato bag

netting, paper punches, flat plastic or brass
stencils, patterned brass, dried leaves, grass
and flat organic items, lace, burlap, string,
ribbon with texture, embossed cardstock, dried
bug wings, crumpled paper, non-ferrous wire,
sand paper, painters tape cut into shapes,
etched copper
Additional consideration about

patterns
When using patterns of letters (see

photo) use only one sheet of annealed
metal to imprint, as the letter will be
backward on one of the sheets if using
two metal sheets. Think of mirror
effect.
The flatter the pattern, the lower the
imprint.
The more compact, raised and ridged
the patterned material, the more crisp
the image on the milled metal.
The rollers of the compact rolling mill
are not long. Make sure that your
pattern will fit across the rollers.
Use the center of the mill as much as
possible for your patterns for the best
results and the most even pressure
across your pattern and metal.
When using cut-out paper or paper
punches, consider using heavy cardstock
or an embossed pattern on the paper for
interest.
Crumpled paper that has been hand
smoothed makes an interesting effect on
metal.
Examples of rolling mill sandwiches
Fancy teardrop cardstock cut-out
Left photo: Cut-out mill sandwich

Middle photo: Milled pattern and metal
Right photo: Milled metal with liver of
sulfur patina
Cardstock paper punch pattern
Left photo: Paper punch mill sandwich

Middle Photo: Milled metal
Right photo: Milled metal with patina
Sandpaper pattern
Left photo: Sandpaper mill sandwich

Paper cut-out bee pattern
Left photo: Paper cut-out mill sandwich

Fabric lace patter
Left photo: Fabric lace mill sandwich

Feather pattern
Left photo: Feather mill sandwich

Other patinaed pieces
Brass Snakeskin Low-relief laser paper Cardstock

Gallery
Cicada wings on copper Patterned brass on sterling silver
Low relief laser paper on sterling silver Patterned brass on sterling silver
Low relief laser paper on copper with silver wire Brass pattern on silver and copper
Notes:_______________________________
____________________________________
____________________________________
____________________________________
____________________________________
____________________________________
____________________________________
____________________________________
If we are fortunate, we have one strong mentor who imparts his or her wisdom upon us so
that we might set forth and make a difference in the world of art and the lives of others.
Tela Formosa, artist extraordinaire, has been that mentor to me. Thank you for all of your
guidance, Tela.
For more information, contact: Susan Barzacchini, wiredlotus@aol.com
Laser relief patterns are by rollingmillresource.etsy.com
Compact economy rolling mill used in this lesson is from Contenti.com
Copyright 2011 Susan Barzacchini, WiredLotus.com. All rights reserved. These instructions are for personal use only.
Please do not distribute, lend or copy any portion of this document. Reproduction and or distribution of these instructions in
whole or in part, in any form, without the author's written consent, are strictly prohibited. This tutorial is presented solely as an
educational tool; and to hold Susan Barzacchini free of any and all claims. You may make this project for limited sale, but do not
mass produce, or claim it as your design. Please give credit where credit is due, it is the right thing to do.

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Copyright 2011 Wired Lotus Page: 1

Patterning Metals Lesson

Sheet metal is virtually our canvas and the rolling mill

The Rolling Mill Functions

Bringing Home Your Rolling Mill

Anatomy of the Compact Rolling Mill

The rollers are located in the middle of the

The sides operating handle and side gear is

The Machine Bolts

The back shelf is located at the rear of the

The specifications of each economy compact rolling mill

Roller length: 76mm

Roller width: 43mm

Other specifications Include:

Unpacking and setting up the rolling mill

Unpacking the mill after it arrives

My machine required very little assembly. The top

Bolting the rolling mill to the table

Caring for the rolling mill

The rolling mill is subject to dust and room

Other ways to care for your mill include:

In this photo the left side of the rollers is

In this photo the rollers have been realigned

Steps that I use to realign rollers on my

Types of metals safe to use in the

Annealed soft non-ferrous metals can be used

Annealing metal allows for the molecular structure

Rolling mill sandwich

Basic one metal mill sandwich

Another view of the basic one metal mill

Two Metal Sandwich

The result of a two metal sandwich

Layers for a two metal sandwich:

Variations in mill sandwiches

Here is an example of a pattern variation. I

Cutting out the sandwich

Putting it all together:

Tip: I do a rough cut of my pattern and

Inversely, if you take the sandwich to the mill

In this photo you can see how the rollers are

In this photo the sandwich is coming out the back.

Distortion of the metal during milling

Here a paper test strip is used to test the

Paper test strip before use

Too little tension/pressure

Here the photos reveal a dried ginkgo leaf that

Curvature of the Metal

During the milling process the entire metal

What becomes of the patterns after one use?

Tip: This leaf had been dried and pressed in a

Sandpaper vs. steel wool after patina

This photo shows the difference in the character of

Finished pendant with patina

This piece was patterned with a low relief laser

My two favorite patterns to use, which gives me

Suggested items to use in the

Feathers, fabric, flat flexible plastic, potato bag

Additional consideration about

When using patterns of letters (see

Examples of rolling mill sandwiches

Fancy teardrop cardstock cut-out

Left photo: Cut-out mill sandwich

Cardstock paper punch pattern