APRIL 2011 R29.95 (incl VAT) Other countries R26.

27 (ex tax)

A WAY O F L I F E

Why Erica Platter puts Fall in love with

WATER
in her wine
24
CLASSY
CABERNETS
The grape debate
Should
you drink Justin Bonello:

COFFEE Its a
myth that
PINOTAGE? wine is only
for the
well-to-do

How to pair
WINE
chocolate LEGENDS
&wine
Spatz Sperling:
A naughty little bird

T R AV E L
Houw Hoek
keep this corner
WINE FOOD DRINK in mind PEOPLE
WorldMags

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 CONTENTS
Whats inside IMAGE CREDITS Andrew Furlong @ iStockPhoto

50
COVER STORIES EN ROUTE
36 WINNING CABERNET SAUVIGNON 30 SCENIC ROUTE
The best of SAs most-planted red variety Scenery and vintage production methods
on the Houw Hoek Pass
42 THE PINOTAGE DEBATE
Should you be drinking coffee Pinotage? 34 AT THE CELLAR DOOR
The history and elegance of Uitkyk
50 A MATCH MADE IN HEAVEN
Chocolate and wine pairing
REGULARS
70 24 CLASSIC CABS 6 Editors note
The top-scoring Cabernet Sauvignons 8 Unltered your letters
from this months tasting 46 10 Word on the street
14 Dates to diarise
15 Off the shelf
WorldMags IN THE GLASS 18 Foodie nds
28 AROUND THE WORLD 19 Ultra brut
Local Semillons are matched with 20 Opus one hundred
equivalents from the Barossa Valley 22 Belle poque
24 Just a thought
56 BEDROOM SECRETS 70 Buying guide
An unlikely location for an impressive, 71 Panel chairmans choice
quirky cellar 77 Classieds
79 Off the rack

ON THE PLATE
66 MATCHMAKING SUBSCRIPTION
Cost-effective bistro cuisine
36 21 Subscription offer
Subscribe and win one of 15 cases of
68 HOME-MADE De Grendel wine
Cabernet Sauvignon bread
WIN
59 A stay at The Palazzo at Montecasino
AROUND THE TABLE
46 LEGENDS
Delheims Spatz Sperling SPECIAL REPORT
26 CHECKERS CHECKLIST
60 COOKING AT HOME WITH The wines to drink with pizza
ERICA PLATTER
I put water in my wine. PUBLIC TASTINGS
3 Taste top white wines in Durban
80 LIGHTBULB MOMENT 25 Taste 10 of SAs best Chenin Blancs
Chef and TV personality Justin Bonello

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 1
PROMOTION
Message in a bottle
HISTORICALLY, wine bottles were chosen for the shape that
distinguished the type of wine it held, for example, Bordeaux
(high shoulders, straight sided), Burgundy (slope-shouldered),
Alsacian (tall and slender), Rine (slender, brown glass) and
Mozel (slender, green glass), Champagne (heavy bottomed, thick-
lipped, dark green), and Port and Sherry (bulge in the neck). PUBLISHING EDITOR Cathryn Henderson
SUB-EDITOR Emma Odendaal
However, with the wide range of consumer choice available in JOURNALIST/WEB EDITOR Jeanri-Tine van Zyl
the wine industry today, the shape of the bottle alone is no longer EVENTS COORDINATOR Celia Gilloway
EVENTS ASSISTANT Kate Clohessy
enough to distinguish your merlot from that of your neighbour. MARKETING/EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Kathryn Steenhuisen
Finding the right packaging for your product has become almost PANEL TASTING CHAIRMAN Christian Eedes
CONTRIBUTORS Suzy Bell, Anna Trapido, Michael
as important as the wine it contains. With producers continuing to Fridjhon, Neil Pendock, Justine
Drake, Christian Eedes, Joanne
seek alternative ways to attract purchasers, many wine farms have Gibson, Tracy Gielink, Fiona
rebranded creating a fresh, modern look with the hope that their McDonald, Karen Glanfield

label will stand out from the rest on the plentiful wine shop shelves. PRODUCTION
In some instances the shape of the wine bottle has become a PRODUCTION MANAGER Shirley McDiarmid
PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Charlene King
further distinguishing and valuable branding tool. However, it is SENIOR DESIGNER Quin Lawson
not as straight forward as registering your farm name as a trade DESIGNER Elgee Strauss

mark. With bottles being generically mass-produced, most are ADVERTISING

NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Samm Bain 021 530 3168
unable to be registered as a trade mark given their common and
SALES EXECUTIVE, JHB Jackie Browning 011 301 4429
regular shape. However, in some cases the bottle is so distinctively SALES EXECUTIVES, CAPE TOWN Ronel du Toit 021 530 3186
Juliette Robertson 021 530 3151
shaped, that it sets it apart and allows the purchaser to immediately CAPE TOWN SALES COORDINATOR Charlene King 021 530 3137
recognise it as being produced by a specic winemaker. These
MARKETING
days, examples of these uniquely shaped bottles are few and far CIRCULATION MANAGER Ian Dinan
between. NEWSSTAND MARKETING MANAGER Hannelie van As
SUBSCRIPTIONS MARKETING COORDINATOR Pia King
One example that has stood the test of time is the distinctive NEWSSTAND REPRESENTATIVE, DBN Agnes Naidoo
shape of Vin de Constance, the natural sweet wine made by the SUBSCRIPTIONS MANAGER Catriona Bennie
SUBSCRIPTIONS MARKETING MANAGER Sandy Immelman
Klein Constantia winery in the Western Cape, which was accepted SUBSCRIPTIONS ADMIN MANAGER Linda Heiberg

WorldMags for registration as a trademark by a number of trade mark ofces

around the world, including the European Community Trade Mark
CONTACT CENTRE MANAGER
PUBLICITY
Sedick Masoet
Shelly van Zyl

Ofce in 2005. It remains difcult to register bottle shapes WEBSITE

ADDRESS www.winemag.co.za (winemag.mobi)
as trade marks and these are rarely successful; however, in the EDITOR webeditor@winemag.co.za
case of Vin de Constance, the bottle shape contained sufcient
distinctive character to warrant the registration and the trade
mark has prevented other bottles of a confusingly similar shape
from being produced. Vin de Constances bottle shape also TO SUBSCRIBE OR BUY WINE PUBLICATIONS
CALL 0860 100 205 FAX 0866 704 101
performed an essential function of a trade mark, namely that EMAIL: subs@ramsaymedia.co.za ONLINE: www.magsathome.co.za
of identifying the wine as originating from one proprietor and FOR CURRENT SUBSCRIPTION OFFER, SEE PAGE 21
distinguishing it from wines with a different commercial origin.
FOREIGN SUBSCRIPTIONS
Other factors leading to a wine bottle shape being successfully 12 issues R393 (neighbouring); 12 issues R594 (all incl. postage)
registered, include the history of the wine bottle, that is, the
length of time it has been in use without any similar bottle
being available to the public, and the reputation that has been
established with that shape which has given it its distinct
difference from other wine bottles on bottle store shelves. PUBLISHED BY RAMSAYMEDIA
CHAIRMAN: Alan T Ramsay
To those innovative wine makers who come up with a novel MANAGING DIRECTOR: Stuart Lowe
DIRECTORS: Jacqueline Lahoud, Terry Moolman, Gordon Utian, Brian Burnett,
shape for a new wine, keep in mind that your shape should not be James Eedes, Simon Turck, Tim Holden, Peter Venn
common to the wine industry, not be based on an existing shape,
CAPE TOWN Head Office: Uitvlugt, 3 Howard Drive, Pinelands 7405;
and should be distinctive and act as a trade mark. PO Box 180, Howard Place 7450; TEL +27 21 530 3100;
FAX +27 21 530 3288; EMAIL wine@ramsaymedia.co.za

Ilse du Plessis, Director Intellectual Property JOHANNESBURG: 17th floor, Office Tower, Sandton City; PO Box 78132,
Sandton 2146; TEL +27 11 783 7030; FAX +27 11 783 0451

WEBSITE: www.ramsaymedia.co.za

MEMBER OF THE AUDIT BUREAU OF CIRCULATION OF SA

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of advice and information given to readers,
neither the Editor, Publisher, nor the Proprietors can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may
arise therefrom. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or oth-
erwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Published by RamsayMedia (Pty) Ltd,
Uitvlugt, 3 Howard Drive, Pinelands South Africa. Printing by CTP Web Printers, Cape Town. Distributed by
RNA, 12 Nobel St, Industria West, Johannesburg. Apple Macintosh support by Project 3 Tel: 021 674 5000.

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2 Winemag.co.za
 Meet the team magazine public tasting

TRACY GIELINK,freelance writer

Coffee Pinotage... Take it or leave it?
Leave it! The sum of the parts is greater
than the whole. The secret to chocolate
and wine pairing is to open a great
bottle of bubbly when in doubt. It
lends a sense of occasion and doesnt
discriminate against much. The best
way to eat chocolate is slowly and free of guilt. A gourmet who
counts calories is like a tart who looks at her watch! Turn to
page 60 to read Tracys interview with Erica Platter.
FIONA MCDONALD,freelance writer and
editor of Whisky magazine
Coffee Pinotage... Take it or leave it? Fans
can take it (and do!), others cant and
dont. The secret to chocolate and wine
pairing is... to suspend judgement, just
put your brain in parkand let your
taste buds do the work. The best way
to eat chocolate is... Let me count the
WorldMags
ways. Oozing chocolate fondant, lightly moussed, in a mug,
blended with milk, cinnamon and a touch of rum,slightlywarm
and licked off the wrapper... Fiona reveals the tricks to
chocolate and wine pairing on page 50.
JOANNE GIBSON,freelance writer
Coffee Pinotage... Take it or leave it? Take
it... to the friends who cant seem to
get enough of it. The secret to chocolate
and wine pairing is... dark chocolate
(minimum 70% cocoa) and red wine
that isnt too dry, tannic or acidic.
Cooking with local, seasonal ingredients...
has become a bit of a clich. Every good cook does it. And rightly
so. Joanne interviews the people behind LAvenirs top-scoring
wine on page 36.
Interested in tasting
white wines?
Please join Wine magazine for an informative,
seated wine tasting of a selection of 10 of
the top-scoring white wines from the Chenin
Blanc Top 10 and the Sauvignon Blanc Top 10.
The tastings will be presented by leading
winemaker Erika Obermeyer from
Graham Beck Wines.
You can expect to taste
the following wines on the evening:
Sauvignon Blanc
First Sighting 2009
Graham Beck Pheasants Run 2010
Cederberg 2010
De Grendel Koetshuis 2010
Strandveld 2010
Chenin Blanc
Fort Simon 2009
Perdeberg Rex Equus 2008
Graham Beck Bowed Head 2009
Katbakkies 2008
Jordan 2009
Tickets cost R150 per person (Wine magazine
subscribers pay R130) and can be booked by calling
0860 100 203 or by sending an email to
subs@ramsaymedia.co.za. For more information,
please contact Kathryn Steenhuisen on
021 530 3308.
In the interest of fellow tasters, please refrain from wearing
excessive perfume or aftershave.

EMMA ODENDAAL, Wine magazine sub-editor TE E

DAANG
Coffee Pinotage Take it or leave it? C H
Personally, Id leave it. But if its what
you enjoy, go for it! The secret to chocolate
and wine pairing is... to ignore the
sceptics and allow your palate to decide
what works for you. Cooking with local, DURBAN
seasonal ingredients... is something thats Date: 5 April 2011
Time: 18:30
now important for everyone not just chefs and foodies. And
Venue: Beverly Hills Hotel, Umhlanga
the more people do it, the more pressure we can put on retailers
to stock seasonal, local produce. Read Emmas interview with
Stefan Marais on page 66.

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Winemag.co.za 3
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FOR STARTERS

Apocalyptic ants
What do climate change, cacao and Cabernet have in common?
The ability to induce multiple, awe-inspiring tremors.

ately Ive encountered an odd endeavour. The predicted warming in the

L problem with a sudden entourage

of house guests. Despite living on a
second storey, a trail of ants make a slow
but steady path across my kitchen oor
and, while I diligently sweep them away
and meticulously ensure not a crumb re-
mains as temptation, there they are again
the following day, industriously weaving
the same determined little trek through
my kitchen.
Recently, oods swamped Australias
Queensland, earthquakes shook New
Zealand, and Johannesburg and areas of
Southern Africa suffered ooding, but as
yet theres a certain reticence to directly
WorldMags address the elephant in the, er, planet. It
appears my ants are sending something
of a message about pending oods that
we might soon experience. Forecasts are
that it will indeed be a wet winter in the
Cape, and these incredible little creatures
are clearly able to pick up on vibrations,
perhaps humidity, or are reacting to their
own secret code, driving them onwards and
upwards to instinctively seek what must
seem to be safer, higher ground. Are they
indeed heralding our own little apocalypse?
With a pending wet Cape winter, this
might have several implications for our
winelands. Seasons are arriving later and
are somewhat out of sync. Gregory Jones of
Southern Oregon University observes that
wine production is a climatically sensitive
next 50-plus years presents many potential
effects, including disruption of balance,
alterations in regional wine styles, spatial
changes in viable grape-growing regions,
increased presence of pests and disease,
and added water-related challenges. For
the future, there is most certainly a need to
integrate planning and adaptation strate-
gies to make adjustments. Incidentally, the
United Nations climate summit takes place
in Durban in late 2011.
The unequivocal reaction to cacao has
no doubt led to its fascinating evolution
and the xations held as it releases rap-
ture in most of us. Cacao has a profoundly
mystical prehistory, dating back some
3 000 years when it was known as the
drink of the gods. For the Aztecs, cacao Theres nothing like a good philosophi-
was revered as a power-inducing product, cal Cab, also capable of bringing about
a source of spiritual wisdom, energy and those humbling moments in life. Making
enhanced sexual powers. Prior to a mili- high-quality Cabernet, Kevin Arnold, to
tary campaign, a travel-sized cacao tablet whom the barrel room is a church, aims to
in the shape of squares making up the produce wines with a wide avour spec-
bars still in use today, was shared between trum, but lighter length of avour without
each warrior in a kind of ritualistic, fortify- overpowering a rather seductive style.
ing preparation. Later, Marie Antoinette Be sure to get your grip on a good
was known to declare that chocolate and Cab this month, along with a dose of
the king were her only passions. In the endorphin-delivering cacao, and watch out
16th century, French doctors believed for those ants...
it had medicinal value, curing chronic
illnesses and broken hearts. Discover what
is happening with it in this century, on
page 50.

What were drinking this month

CATHRYN: Collaboration Chenin
Blanc. This joint effort by Bertus
Basson, Craig Cormack and Hidden
Valley winemaker Louis Nel is a must
if you are ever at Overture restaurant or
Soas at Morgenster. A graceful wine;
elegant, fresh, balanced. EMMA: Im
protecting my wallet with a pocket-
friendly Balance Winemakers Selection
Sauvignon Blanc 2010. Crisp, simple,
easy-drinking. Over-delivery at R40
per bottle! JEANRI-TINE: Billecart-
Salmon Cuve Nicolas Francois 2000. If
this Champagne was a man it wouldve
been a very generous lover

WorldMags
6 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
 32656/E
TJDR (CT)
WorldMags

A new planet is born planet

restaurant

Discover the fresh, locally inspired cuisine of Chef Rudi Liebenberg at Mount Nelson
Hotel's new Planet Restaurant in an elegant yet relaxed atmosphere.

Planet Restaurant, Mount Nelson Hotel, 76 Orange St, Gardens, Cape Town.
+27 (0)21 483 1000 | restaurantreservations@mountnelson.co.za | www.planetbarandrestaurant.co.za |

WorldMags
LETTERS
Unfiltered
These pages we leave to Wine readers, though we do
reserve the right to edit whats published.
Write to The Editor, Wine magazine, PO Box 180, Howard Place 7450, South Africa or email wine@ramsaymedia.co.za
THE WINNING LETTER
A SMALL FORTUNE
They say the best way to make a small
fortune in the wine industry is to start
with a large fortune! Consider the
product line: it starts with the clear-
ing of land and the planting of vines.
Only a few years later do these vines
produce the kind of fruit that would get
a winemaker out of bed in the morning.
Grapes harvested (by harvesters who
must be paid) go through fermentation
WorldMags (in expensive equipment monitored by
expensive people), then are put in oak
barrels (more expensive equipment),
left to mature and, if youre lucky, get
bottled (more expensive material) before
two years have gone by. All the expenses
above accrue before the product can
even begin to be sold! Thats what you
call a cashow nightmare.
So what can a farm do about it? I
found one solution, called a wine future
or debenture, being implemented at a
few farms and was wondering if anyone
knew of similar solutions for serious,
forward-thinking wine buyers to consider.
Using this solution, an initial capital
input from the buyer helps grease the
wheels of the farms ongoing production,
and pays dividends to the purchaser
in the form of a selection of wines every
year for a given period. For example: in
year one I pay over, say, R10 000 and for
three years thereafter I get to choose two
cases of the farms wine. Wisely done,
the value of wines earned should more
than offset the initial investment.
I understand that Blaauwklippen used
to offer such a scheme (does it still?),
WorldMags
8 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
so too Grangehurst. My wife and I have
bought into such an initiative called
Wine Partners provided by Lindhorst
Wines (no surprise that owner, Mark,
is a qualied CA). But it doesnt take a
nancial genius to recognise the benets
to the farm of customer loyalty and cash
in hand. And from the buyers side: long-
term discounted wine and that feeling of
being somebody special to that farm.
Ive enjoyed our experience with the
Lindhorsts and wonder who else offers
wine futures or debentures that might
be worth taking a look at? Could your
sleuths and/or readers-in-the-know out
there give me a few pointers?
Phil McLean, Cape Town
Thank you for raising this very interest-
ing topic its worthy of a more in-depth
review so keep a look out! In the
meantime we welcome comment from
consumer and trade. Enjoy the new prized
Veuve Clicquot! Ed
VEUVE CLICQUOT
Style, touch and twist. Le Fridge is
a stylish and retro-design tribute
to Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label.
Designed to keep your bottle cold
for two hours, it is also reusable
and can be used for storage.
Submit a winning letter to Wine
magazine and
well send you a
Veuve Cliquot
Le Fridge as
well as a
750ml bottle
of Veuve
Clicquot
Yellow Label.
PAYS TO WAIT
On a recent holiday in the Cape I
schlepped the wife and daughter to the
winelands with the express purpose
of tasting and buying wine. We visited
Kanonkop to sample its Pinotage. To my
dismay, because of the festive season,
the farm was sold out. I then asked for
a bottle of Paul Sauer, but that too was
sold out. Unbeknown to me, my daughter
and her boyfriend had paid a visit to the
estate a few days earlier and had managed
to get a bottle of Paul Sauer. I settled for
the Kadette. Imagine my delight when,
on celebrating my 60th birthday, my
daughter pesented me with the bottle of
Paul Sauer where it has pride of place on
my winerack. It seems to conrm that old
adage of good things come to those who
wait. Needless to say, it will prove a great
temptation to drink it then and there. Ill
have to be strong!
Etienne Rothbart, Johannesburg
SHOWDOWN!
At last, a meaningful comparison
between our wines and those from
overseas. Thank you Mr Pftzner for
your organisation of the wines tasted by
the panel. The Big 5 Showdown (Wine,
February 2011) gave us wonderful
insight into the difference between
French and South African wines and
I for one am stimulated to open the
various examples given, knowing I will
learn a tremendous amount from the
guidelines offered in the Showdown.
Please extend the Showdown to
include the rest of the worlds wine.
Ron Knowles, via email
 EW NE!
N LI
L N
AL E O

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 NEWS, VIEWS & REVIEWS

WORD ontheSTREET
Keep up with whats going down in the
world of food and wine.

HQ HITS JOZI The slick, modern decor of HQs Cape Town

branch has been replicated in the new HQ
In a world of unlimited choice, it is refreshing to nd a restaurant that sticks to its prin-
in Sandton.
ciples and offers one meal: a green salad of cos and butter lettuce, Grana Padana cheese
and toasted pine nuts with a zingy French vinegarette followed by a perfectly grilled sirloin
with a secret Caf de Paris herbed butter sauce and pomme frites.
The concept is inspired by the famous European restaurant group Le Relais de Venise
LEntrecte that has kept diners coming back for the same menu for over 50 years.Based
on this tried-and-trusted formula, HQ opened its rst restaurant in Heritage Square, Cape
Town, over two years ago. An indication of its success is the new addition to the HQ
family, situated in the trendy 24 Central in the heart of the Sandton CBD.
With such a limited menu, ingredients are key. As sirloin is the star of the meal, great
effort has been taken to source superior-quality meat, complemented by the delicious
herb-infused compound butter that can be topped up, along with the perfectly crisp
pomme frites, throughout your meal at no extra cost. A massive 500g sirloin option is
also available, thoughtfully served in two sessions to ensure your meal does not get cold
halfway through.For those with a sweet tooth, there are 10 decadent dessert options
WorldMags including classic crme brle and lemon tart.
The wine list is extensive with over 40 wines available by the glass.
Shop 2A, 24 Central, Gwen Lane, Sandton; tel 011 783 0924

GARDEN ON A PLATE In addition to the regular menu, guests

at New Babel can also create their own
Mention organic or artisanal-sourced produce, meals choosing from an abundance of
throw in beautifully presented plates and a white green, yellow and red vegetables, fruit,
open-plan designer cooking and eating space, herbs and salad leaves.
and youre almost guaranteed a following by
trendy urbanites. New Babel at Simondiums Ba-
bylonstoren farm has foodie trendsetter Maranda
Engelbrecht consulting and Simon Rossouw
cooking. Freshness is key, with a menu depend-
ent on 300 edible items that are visible on
walks through the 3.5ha garden. From pumpkins
and watermelons to herbs, the garden supplies
vibrant colour-coded salad starters and juices,
and enhances creative poultry, venison and shy
mains. Vegetarians will be delighted, while
desserts are themed around sweet, savoury, bitter
and sour tastes a dark-chocolate terrine with
olives and walnuts and espresso sabayon tackles
the bitter theme. Well-priced wines are from
surrounding farms.
Babylonstoren Road, Drakenstein Valley between
Franschhoek and Paarl; tel 021 863 3852

WorldMags
10 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011

BUBBLY BUFFET
Fancy a leisurely Sunday brunch and
unlimited Cap Classique? Trendy 15 on
Orange Hotel in Cape Towns city bowl
offers a modern take on the Sunday
buffet. Delights including oysters, gravid
lax, sashimi, beef goulash, Karoo lamb
and key lime pie are served from midday
on Sundays. Never-ending glasses of Cap
Classique currently Graham Beck Brut
are part of the deal. Priced at R265
per adult, children under six eat free
and those under 12 pay half price. After
lunch, send the kids to the Sound Room
for movies, milkshakes and popcorn.
15 Orange Street, Cape Town;
tel 021 469 8000.
WorldMags
word on the street
Although located in Johannesburg, you
would be forgiven for mistaking this
eatery as a Cape Town classic.
CAPE CARNIVAL
Welcome to Cape Town, goes the upbeat Cape
Minstrels song. In Jozis Emmarentia youll
hear it on the sound system inside District Six
Eatery where owners Clarence Swartland Gorlei
and Romano Gorlei pay tribute to Clarences
childhood in District Six. The menu includes
authentic favourites such as Malay bredies,
bobotie, smoorsnoek, samoosas and onder die
kombers (mince-lled cabbage leaves). All the
food is home-cooked with recipes from my mom
and my ouma, says Clarence, who heads the
kitchen. My lamb curry goes like a bomb, and
my melktert is a hit. A liquor licence is pending
and the meat is halal. The dcor includes photos
of Clarences family, school and church in the
former District Six.
Corner of Greenhills and Barry Hertzog Road,
Emmarentia, Johannesburg; tel 011 486 7226






WorldMags
Winemag.co.za 11
(QMR\5HVSRQVLEO\1RWIRU6DOHWR3HUVRQV8QGHUWKH$JHRI
 word on the street

Hennie van der Merwe has SAUCY DINING

brought creative air to Swellendam restaurant The Red Hen
the plates at Restaurant
@ Glen Carlou. proved too small for chef Hennie van der
Merwe. Hes now luring repeat diners at
Restaurant @ Glen Carlou near Paarl. His
tastily crafted plates have a Boland twist.
I keep to the classics with a French un-
derlying element. I like my sauces to be
quite avourful, says this chef trained at AUTUMN DEAL
The Culinary Academy who was mentored Catharinas at Steenberg kicks off its
by Phil Alcock at Cellars-Hohenhort be- winter warmer specials on 1 April.
fore chefng on-board cruise liners. The Running until October, order two courses
creative menu offers starters at R40 to at R165 or three at R195 during lunch-
R60 and mains average at R95. Sample time. Pay R215 for three dinner courses.
from smoked trout and asparagus with A glass of Steenberg wine is included.
creamy mussel sauce to meat and game Chef Almazan caters creatively to meat-
trios, or roasted quail with Chardonnay lovers and vegetarians. A sample menu
jus. Not to be missed: Hennies cont could include a winter trufe risotto with
duck leg on lyonnaise potatoes. Parmesan foam, linesh with fennel
Childrens menus available. pure, prawn ravioli, scallops and salsa,
Simondium Road, Klapmuts; and a dessert of lemongrass and coconut
tel 021 875 5528. panna cotta with grilled pineapple and
granadilla semifreddo.
Steenberg Estate, Tokai Road, Constantia,
NEW FACES AND FOOD Cape Town; tel 021 713 2222
WorldMags The Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa has a fresh breeze blowing through its hallways.
New general manager Horst Frehse, previously at Grande Roche, Singita and Asara hotel
respectively, brings his old-style charm to food and wine gatherings, while Henrico Grob-
belaar is the new executive chef. In 2009, Grobbelaar was The Sunday Times Chef of the
Year and S. Pellegrinos Young Chef of the Year. Grobbelaar had good training catering
to the edible needs of luxury hotel guests after feeding FIFA VIPs during the World Cup.
Teamed with Luvo Ntezo, the hotels sommelier since 2005, they form a formidable duo.
We caught up with the pair:
HENRICO GROBBELAAR:
Where does your interest in food stem from?
When I was a student, studying engineering, I walked past a restaurant and saw the chef,
dressed in a chefs uniform and wearing clogs, preparing meatballs. I was fascinated Henrico Grobbelaar, now at The Twelve
and watched him for almost an hour. This encouraged me and I started experimenting Apostles, catered for over 600 VIPs at
the World Cup.
at home. I eventually left my career in engineering and started off peeling vegetables for
three years at the Erinvale Golf Estate in Somerset West, under the leadership of Austral-
ian chef Michael Bridgeman. I then trained with Garth Stroebel and Paul Hartmann at
their new Culinary Academy.
If you could only serve one dish from your menu, what would it be and why?
I am proud of my scallops as they surprise each and every one who orders them. This
meal is well balanced in avour and presentation.
LUVO NTEZO:
Whats the secret to the perfect food and wine pairing?
You must love wine rst. Use the wine as a missing link into the dish. Dont bring a wine
that has the same characteristics as the dish. Remember that there is no rule for red wine
with red meat its about what appeals to your palate. When you combine food and wine
they trigger each other to create what I call a third avour, something you couldnt get Luvo Ntezo has his sights
set on becoming a Cape
without the pairing. When the marriage works, it is just reworks! Wine Master.
Victoria Road, Cape Town; tel 021 437 9000

WorldMags
12 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
 word on the street
WINELANDS GEM
The historic 18th-century manor house on Plaisir de Merle wine estate has been
GRAHAM BECK
restored to its former splendour for use as an exclusive wedding and conference venue FRANSCHHOEK SOLD
and corporate guesthouse. The Graham Beck Wines group has
The interior features an elegant and eclectic rendition of old and new and the end result is announced that it has consolidated its
a conscious move away from grandeur towards unaffected sincerity with classical renement. assets with the sale of its Franschhoek
The manor house is only available in its entirety for a group booking of up to eight people properties to the Anthonij Rupert Wines
maximum, consisiting of four bedrooms, including a bridal/honeymoon suite. group. The transaction includes 452ha
The dining room or galderij, with its traditional wall cupboard (muurkas) and yellow- of land, including 72ha of vineyards, a
wood ceiling beams, has a long dining table that comfortably seats 36 guests perfect for cellar each for processing red and white
an intimate wedding luncheon or dinner. wine, cellar door, administrative and
The garden setting with trees lends itself to marquees on the manicured lawns for out- storage facilities and La Garonne
side entertainment and functions. There is also a fully equipped conference room, a small manor house.
breakaway room and a spacious lounge with large comfortable couches and a replace. General manager Gary Baumgarten
R45, Simondium; tel 021 874 1071 admitted that the consolidation meant
a change in name for the Franschhoek
Plaisir de Merles historic manor house that now hosts cellar. It is now an Anthonij Rupert
intimate weddings.
farm, and will be known as this from
1 July, he said. He could not say how
the transfer would impact on Graham
Beck winemakers, as that was still being
negotiated at the time. Graham Beck
Wines Robertson cellar and vineyards
and its Firgrove estates (located between
Stellenbosch and Somerset West) will
WorldMags continue to operate as before and do not
form part of the sale. As will Steenberg
FANCOURT REVAMPS vineyards in Constantia.
LA CANTINA Baumgarten said that the sale was
The Italian restaurant on Fancourt Golf Estate in George, driven by a need to be nancially
La Cantina, has been revamped. Featuring informal, yet THERMOMIX sustainable. Johann Rupert, owner of
sophisticated, authentic Italian cuisine, diners can look The price of the the Anthonij Rupert Wines group said,
forward to delectable but simple dishes prepared by chef Thermomix in the The late Graham Beck was a friend of
Matteo Siliberti as well as a refreshingly family focused March 2011 issue over 30 years. We had been neighbours
dining experience. The restaurant has a kiddies menu article Cooking at for decades and he offered us the op-
and also includes a pizza counter where children can home with Michael portunity to acquire the land adjacent to
build their own pizzas. Broughton is LOrmarins some time ago. As a farmer it
As La Cantina means the cellar, diners can be sure to R12 654 including is generally accepted that if, during your
be well looked after in terms of wine selection. South Af- Vat and can go to lifetime, the neighbouring farm becomes
rican and Italian wine choices are available by the glass. 10 200rpm. available, you are very fortunate.
Montagu Street, Fancourt, George; tel 044 804 0000

WorldMags
MARCH 2011 Winemag.co.za 13
 dates to diarise
DATES to DIARISE
FARMERS MARKET AT WINDMEUL CELLAR
2 April Windmeul Cellar, Paarl
A market with the freshest organic produce straight from the farms.
Tel 021 869 8043; www.windmeulwinery.co.za
RIEBEEK WEST FUNKY FRESH MARKET
2 April Kasteelberg Trading, Voortrekker Road, Riebeek West
A market with stalls selling home-made jewellery, bags, handmade cards,
mosaics and other crafts and interesting collectibles.
Tel Alexi 084 601 3636 or Willie 083 748 6328
ABSA KKNK PROE DIE BESTE FOOD AND WINE SHOW
2-5 April Klein Karoo National Arts Festival, Oudsthoorn
The popular food and wine show this year focuses on the ABSA Top 10
Pinotages. Delicious food will be paired with these wines, with a bit of music
thrown in for good measure. Tickets cost R100 per person. www.kknk.co.za
WHITE SELECTION WINE TASTING
5 April Beverly Hills Hotel, Durban
An informative, seated wine tasting of a selection of top-scoring white wines
from Wine magazines Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc Challenges and the
Nedbank Green Wine Awards. Tel 0860 100 203; www.winemag.co.za
GRAPES, GOURMET AND GALLERY
6 April Winchester Mansions hotel, Cape Town
A ve-course dinner, inclusive of a glass of wine per course, for R345 per
person. Art exhibition courtesy of Patrice Boussekeys Eclectic Gallery.
Tel 021 434 2351; email banqueting@winchester.co.za
TASTE OF CAPE TOWN
7-10 April Green Point Cricket Club, Cape Town
WorldMags The annual food and restaurant festival thats jam-packed with more avour
experiences than ever before, with top restaurants and chefs serving a
stunning selection of sample-sized signature dishes to visitors.
Tel 011 463 0355; www.tasteofcapetown.com
CERTIFICATE WINE COURSE
11 April De Grendel Wine Farm, Durbanville, Cape Town
An in-depth course on South African wine which covers viticulture,
winemaking, distillation, fortication, sweet and sparkling wines. The course
consists of seven evening lectures. Email susan@capewineacademy.co.za;
www.capewineacademy.co.za
CERTIFICATE WINE COURSE
12 April The River Club, Observatory, Cape Town
An in-depth course on South African wine which covers viticulture,
winemaking, distillation, fortication, sweet and sparkling wines. The course
consists of seven evening lectures. Email susan@capewineacademy.co.za;
www.capewineacademy.co.za
VILLIERA SUNSET GAME DRIVE AND WINE EVENING
13 April and 20 April Villiera Wine Estate, Stellenbosch
The evening event includes a game drive, wine tasting and a light meal for
R150 per person. Tel 021 865 2002; www.villiera.com
GREAT DOMAINES TASTING
14 April Chefs Warehouse, Cape Town
An evening of wines from some of the worlds greatest regions presented by
Guy Harcourt-Wood of Great Domaines and food prepared by Liam Tomlin to
match. R750 per person. Tel 021 422 0128; www.chefswarehouse.co.za
CERTIFICATE WINE COURSE
14 April The Neelsie, Stellenbosch
An in-depth course on South African wine which covers viticulture,
winemaking, distillation, fortication, sweet and sparkling wines. The course
consists of seven evening lectures. Email susan@capewineacademy.co.za;
www.capewineacademy.co.za
WorldMags
14 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
d
Organisers should sen
event details to
.co.za.
wine@ramsaymedia
MPUMALANGA WINE SHOW
15-16 April Ingwenyama Conference and Sports Resort, White River
Sample around 250 wines from at least 50 wine producers in an informal
setting. R100 per person, includes tasting glass and show guide. Book online
at www.computicket.com
CLOUDY NOUVEAU
15-16 April Breedekloof wine region
A festival of live music, country cuisine and wine from the 2011 harvest direct
from the tanks. Tel 023349 1791; www.breedekloof.com
AROUND THE WORLD WITH LIAM (JAPAN)
16 April Chefs Warehouse, Cape Town
Hosted over 10 classes, one per month, participants receive an in-depth
insight into regional cuisine. Countries included are Thailand, Italy, France and
Spain, among others (with the April class focusing on Japan). Participants can
either sign up for individual classes or book a selection. Tel 021 422 0128;
www.chefswarehouse.co.za
THE SOUTH AFRICAN WINE COURSE
16 April Delheim wine farm, Stellenbosch
A one-day, three-hour course. An introduction to the wonders of wine
for everyone who wants to learn more about the subject.
Email: susan@capewineacademy.co.za; www.capewineacademy.co.za
LA MOTTE FIRST SEMESTER CONCERTS
16 April La Motte Historical Cellar, Franschhoek
Three South African artists currently living in London, Jane Wilkenson
(soprano), Ann Marshall (piano) and Marlene Verwey (ute), present a
programme of music in the spirit of Easter. Arias from Bachs St John Passion
and St Matthew Passion will be performed, as well as works by the British
composers Ralph Vaughan Williams and John Rutter. Admission is R150 per
person. Tel 021 876 8000; www.la-motte.com
OES AF DANCE
16 April Du Preez Estate, Breede River Valley
Live music, food and dancing late into the night, with the opportunity to
sample wines from the 2011 harvest direct from the tanks. No under 18s.
Tel 023 349 1642; info@dupreezestate.co.za
GRAPE CRUSHING FESTIVAL
25 April The Stables Wine Estate, KwaZulu-Natal Midlands
An annual Grape Crushing Festival to celebrate the end of another harvest,
providing the opportunity for wine-lovers to stomp their own grapes.
Tel 033 266 6781
SA CHEESE FESTIVAL
29 April-2 May Sandringham Farm, Stellenbosch
More than your ordinary food market.Loads of scrumptious cheeses and
family fun. Tel 021 975 4440; mariana@agriexpo.co.za
GOURMET WINE EVENT
29 April The Vineyard Hotel, Cape Town
Taste the latest and greatest wines from Klein Constantia, Simonsig, Warwick
and Waterford wine estates. Enjoy with a ve-course gourmet meal with
complimentary wines to accompany each course. Tel 021 657 4500;
eat@vineyard.co.za
ALL BEAUTIFUL CHARDONNAY
30 April The Palazzo Montecasino, Johannesburg
A tutored tasting of six wines presented by The Palazzo Montecasinos
sommelier and accompanied by an exclusive four-course menu.
R250 per person. Tel 011 510 3000
 OFF shelf the BOOK REVIEWS
To submit a book for review, email
emma@ramsaymedia.co.za.

Products that have caught the eye

of the Wine magazine team this month.

WorldMags
THE WINEMAKER COOKS
Winemaker and author Christine Hanna,
of Hanna Winery in California, has
penned a cookbook with recipes that are
both functional and inspiring.
Stemming from her personal repertoire
gathered from entertaining dinner parties
and wine clubs, each recipe includes
wine pairings, based on Hannas experi-
ence as a winemaker. Mediterranean
avours infuse much of her cooking, a
THE PHILOSOPHY OF WINE tribute to her Syrian heritage and her fa-
Tackling the issue of subjectivity in wine tasting and why some tasters will like a ther Elias, who founded Hanna in 1985.
wine and others dislike it, Cain Todd, a lecturer in philosophy at the University of The book is divided into seasons and
Lancaster in the United Kingdom, asks whether there can be such a thing as the suggests menus for a host of occasions
taste of a wine. Can wines really be feminine, profound, pretentious, or cheeky? everything from a fun pizza party and
And how is it that wines have become personied, lacking or possessing virtues and a harvest picnic in the vineyards to a
vices? Focusing on issues in metaphysics, epistemology, the philosophy of mind Mediterranean-style Thanksgiving.
and aesthetics, the book provides a discussion of the philosophical In ask the winemaker boxes, Hanna
signicance of wine, questioning whether wine is indeed a work of art. answers a host of wine-related questions,
While many wine critics may not agree with many of Todds arguments, it is a which although basic, are relevant to
fascinating read that provides food for thought. Despite being based on Todds entertaining (for instance how to identify
own academic research, The Philosophy of Wine is accessible to anyone with an a corked wine).
interest in wine. Available for R355 from Chefs
Available on www.kalahari.net for R341.95. Warehouse. Tel 021 422 0128

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 15
 NEWS, VIEWS & REVIEWS

LABEL REVIEW
AHEAD OF THE FLOCK
Those who have visited Vergenoegd wine farm near Somerset West will have
seen the 500-strong ock of Indian Runner ducks foraging for snails in the
vineyards, contributing to non-invasive farming practices on the estate.
These fowl have been honoured for their part in contributing to the
farms biodiversity status by having the Runner Duck range of wines
named after them. The bottles playful label, with the unique Runner Duck
cut-out, reects the fun, easy-drinking nature of the Runner Duck range,
which includes three blends; a Ros, white and red.
The Runner Duck Ros is available from Vergenoegd wine estate for R45.
Tel 021 843 3248

WorldMags

STACK IT
New to stores in April from My Bar is this clever little wine
rack. Its slick, modern and easy to assemble, by simply
clicking the feet of one level into the handles of the other.
Holding 12 bottles, the three-tier bottle rack is metal coated
with NBR rubber. Its perfect for those with smaller wine col-
lections and is more portable that bulky wooden alternatives.
The My Bar bottle rack retails from Boardmans for R249.95.
CHILL IT
Also from the My Bar range is the stainless-steel ice
bucket and tongs. The lid secures tightly, helping your
ice to last longer, while a strainer at the base keeps
melted water away from the ice, also allowing the ice
to stay frozen for longer (R299.95). The My Bar range
is available exclusively at Boardmans. Go to
www.boardmans.co.za for details of your closest store.
We try to be different...

W E SELL:
Our own brand of Italian Cotton Shirts
8M I K W K S  * T ] M
t
(made in Cape Town)
t

Cashmere Sweaters and Scarves
t

Polo, Pringle & Penguin
t

Imported brands such as Scotch & Soda
t

Kingsley Heath - African Luxury
5MV[_MIZ[\WZMQV\PMKMV\ZMWN\PM^QTTIOMWXXW[Q\M t

Italian Wool Suits
\PMKP]ZKPWV\PMUIQVZWILWN.ZIV[KPPWMS t

Spanish Riding Boots & Rockports

 16 0 ] O ] M V W \  ; \ Z M M \     < M T "      !___XMIKWKSJT]MKWbI

WorldMags
Winemag.co.za MARCH 2011
 l`]Yjlakljq
g^[`YehY_f]

WorldMags

OH MY SAC!
Available from The Sac Shop are
these nifty bags that double as
carry and ice sacs. Described as
GIZMOS
innovative, trendy, multifaceted To submit a gizmo for review, email
lifestyle sacs, these collapsible jeanri@ramsaymedia.co.za.
bags are super-useful when an ice
bucket is too much of a schlep to
carry around. The MMX expanded featured here is a step up from the translu-
cent, PVC watertight Tipple Sac, since it features a colourful range of handle
aps and also seals with plastic press studs. These sturdy bags are designed
to hold ice water and a bottle of wine, and stand upright without any hassle
ensuring that the only toppling over is done by the imbiber. The greatest thing
about this design is that it folds away after use. Just another way to make your
picnic or alfresco lunch hassle-free. xxx/mpvjt.spfefsfs/dpn
Approximate retail price: R85 per unit. Visit www.thesacshop.co.za for these
and other designs and products.
$YDLODEOHIURP
xxx/sfdjqspdbm/dp/{b
ZZZUHFLSURFDOFR]D


1RWIRUVDOHWRSHUVRQVXQGHU

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 17 WKHDJHRI
NEWS, VIEWS & REVIEWS

FOODIEfinds
Delectable products that are musts for a
wine-lovers kitchen cupboard.

Five-Year-Old Van Ryns brandy is served

with Italian salami, the 10-Year-Old
Vintage is matched by the smokiness of
Parma ham, while the 15-Year-Old Fine
Cask Reserve is partnered with gently
avoured coppa.

BRANDY MEETS CHARCUTERIE CHOCOLATE

Until recently, brandy pairings at Van Ryns Distillery near Stellenbosch focused on coffee
or desserts, but to show just how versatile brandy can be, the distillery has extended its
range of options to include pairings with savoury avours.
The brandy and charcuterie tasting, at R60, features three brandies produced at
the distillery a ve-, 10- and 15-year-old, matched with a selection of local artisanal
WorldMags cured meats from La Masseria, also in Stellenbosch. Brandy and charcuterie tastings are
available from Monday to Friday from 08:30 until 16:30, and on Saturdays from 09:00
until 13:30. For more information, visit www.vanryn.co.za or call 021 881 3875.
CAPE CURRY
After doing extensive research into Cape cuisine, going
back to the time of Jan van Riebeeck, La Motte wine
estate near Franschhoek developed what it likes to call
Cape winelands cuisine.
Curry was, and still is, an integral part of Cape cuisine,
so the team behind the estates Pierneef restaurant has
appropriately created three curry spice blends, for meat,
chicken and sh, each based on age-old recipes, but
adapted for the modern cook. These curry powders are all
available for purchase at the farm shop our favourite being
the sh curry spice mixture. The curry blends are sold from
La Motte deli for R40 per 85g box. Call 021 876 3119.
FOR AFRICA
Most of the worlds cocoa originates
from Africa, yet just 1% of the worlds
chocolate gets made here. So, the team
at Madcasse, inspired by their Peace
Corps experiences in Madagascar, are
on a mission to change this dismal
statistic by providing cacao farmers in
Madagascar with equipment and training
to produce quality chocolate.
We love the sea salt and nibs cocoa
nibs are added to give the chocolate a
delicious crunch and a light dusting of
salt enhances the cocoa avour. Also
included in the range is a delicious 80%
cocoa bar. Available at Vrede en Lust
on the Simondium-Klapmuts Road, near
Franschhoek, for R45 per 75g bar. Go to
www.madecasse.com to
order direct.
For more foodi e finds
Go to www.winemag.co.za
and click on The Dish.

DAILY BREAD
Compagnes Drift farm in Bot River, an 18th-century outpost for the Dutch East India Company,
is now home to Beaumont Wines, a family run winery. The propertys old millstone with its
waterwheel was recently renovated and is now working as it once used to, producing a limited
amount of stone-ground, whole-wheat our. Nici of Zest Catering, and wife of winemaker
Sebastian Beaumont, uses this our to bake scrumptious whole-wheat loaves. Delicious with
Nicis olive oil or jam, a loaf retails for R30 and needs to be pre-ordered the day before. Call
083 720 2202 or go to www.zestcatering.co.za. Read more about Beaumont Winery on page 30.

WorldMags
18 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011

A threatened species
As consumers are presented with more wine drinking options,
we are faced with the plight of Cabernet, says Michael Fridjhon.
he days when Cabernet Sauvignon
T was South Africas only really
respectable red variety are not
all that distant. Thirty years ago, white
cultivars represented over 70% of the
national vineyard. Cinsaut accounted for
just under 11%, Shiraz 0.8%, Pinotage
2.8% and Cabernet Sauvignon 2.5%.
(Nowadays, Cinsaut is down to 2%, Shiraz
is up to 10% and Cabernet is around
13%. Cabernet is still king, but power-
sharing has replaced the old autocracy.)
In the late 1990s, many people
involved with the wine industry looked
enviously at the Antipodes with its
WorldMags extensive plantings of ancient Shiraz and
Grenache vines. We could have done with
some old Rhne varieties, but compared
to the Aussies we had been richly
endowed with Cabernet.
When Max Schubert, the legendary
chief winemaker of Penfolds, set out to
produce the wine now known as Grange,
he chose to use Shiraz because there
simply wasnt enough Cab. In 1959, the
total Australian Cabernet crush was 59
tonnes. In the same year, the Australians
processed 29 000 tonnes of Grenache,
18 000 tonnes of Shiraz and 5 000
tonnes of Mourvdre.
In short, while Australia thought only
of the Rhne, we were Cabernet country.
Its still something we do well and its
certainly something we pride ourselves
on. Accordingly, it may come as a
surprise to discover that our Cabernet
growers are not in a very happy place.
In the past decade when ination has
more than doubled the cost of producing
wine the average bulk-selling price of
Cabernet has more than halved. If this
trend continues, the Capes Cabernet
farmers will all be out there praying for
WorldMags
the ANC to nationalise the wine industry.
While the plight of Cabernet producers
is not vastly different from those who
grow Shiraz, Merlot and Pinotage
(Chenin, Chardonnay, Semillon and even
Sauvignon Blanc growers are at least
tracking ination), its still a turn up for
the books. Having survived decades in
which ne red wine consumption was
static and, at under 10 million litres, less
than 1% of the total wine industry, the
Capes Cabernet growers are beginning to
If this trend
continues, the
Capes Cabernet
farmers will all
be out there
praying for
the ANC to
nationalise the
wine industry.
look like a threatened species. Have we
outgrown our heroes, have they failed to
grow with us or have those responsible for
producing them let us both down?
A number of factors account for this
state of affairs. As consumers, weve
ULTRA BRUT
become promiscuous. When we drink
good reds, we no longer limit ourselves
to Cabernet. In fact, weve been irting
(rather too seriously for our own good,
perhaps) with Shiraz, even while we were
falling out of love with Merlot. Were
considering an affair with Malbec and
have been known to fall for the honey-trap
known as Pinot Noir.
The growers have also played a role
in compromising the relationship. They
too have been unfaithful, trying out
whatever has been forward enough to
cross their paths. With winemakers willing
to play with anything on offer, the web of
indelity is beginning to resemble soap
opera-meets-Jerry Springer.
Pressurised by their bankers, the
winemakers have changed their
expectations, forcing Cabernets out on
the streets before theyve even been to
nishing school. You cant be expected to
take a young wine seriously if it doesnt
know how to express itself, and Cabernet
has always been a bit of a slow developer.
Is there a happier ending for all this
than the fate of the Back to Basics
campaign that failed to produce the moral
regeneration of Britain in the 1990s? Not
without casualties, Im afraid: as long as
there are tarts out there willing to turn a
trick (or two) for little more than the price
of a glass of plonk, its difcult to sell the
old-fashioned virtues of love, deferred
gratication, and the pleasure that comes
from a deeper understanding.
Michael Fridjhon is
a leading wine writer
and consultant with
extensive international
judging experience.
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 19
 Subscribe
and WIN!
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R89
that are an honourable expression of the unique terroir.

Each of the 15 winners will receive a case containing a bottle of:

De Grendel Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Platters 4 Star
De Grendel Koetshuis Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Veritas Double Gold,
Wine magazine Top 10, Wine magazine 4 Star, Platters 4 Star
De Grendel Winifred 2009 SA Terroir Wine Awards National
Certificate: Top White Blend, Platters 4 Star
De Grendel Ros 2010 Winemakers Choice 2010: Diamond Award
De Grendel Shiraz 2007 Platters 4 Star

WorldMags De Grendel Merlot 2008 Platters 3 Star

To subscribe for only R270 for 12 issues or extend your subscription for only R234,
simply contact us with this code: 11/04/SP/WINE
w. m a g b s @ ra m s a to 34 0 8 60 0 8 66 6, Ho
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WorldMags
 OPUS ONE HUNDRED
Secrets of spit
Saliva is an important part of the sensory experience of wine and its
qualities differ from person to person, writes Neil Pendock.
ew would argue that Eben Sadie
F is not the most charismatic
winemaker in SA. To see him
cartwheeling across the oor at the
Swartland Revolution last year, the man
is clearly on a natural high. He is also a
man with a message at the Revolution
it was the primacy of soil in the terroir
equation. To make his point, he showed
three young vine 2010 Shirazes, all
made in the same way, with soil clay,
slate and granite the only difference.
His point made, he will then blend the
three distinct terroir wines, add some
WorldMags Mourvdre, and call the result Columella
2010. For Eben insists that blending
is necessary to achieve complexity in
South African wines.
Mother Nature obviously agrees, as
every wine we drink is a blend. With a
thick, colourless, opalescent uid that
is constantly present in the mouth of
humans and other vertebrates (Encyclo-
pedia Britannica), aka spit, saliva, gob,
sputum, dibble, drool, phlegm. Men
drink a couple of litres of the stuff a day
while women, according to Psychol-
ogy Today, get by on half that amount.
Which could explain why the weaker sex
tastes better than men sisters drink
their wine less dilute.
Encyclopedia Britannica reports that
saliva is composed of water, mucus,
proteins, mineral salts and amylase,
the last named an enzyme that starts off
the process of digestion and also helps
swallowing. Spit is an important factor
in tasting wine for a variety of reasons: it
contains both sodium and potassium chlo-
ride that has a buffering effect on avour
and it neutralises excessively acidic wine
through dilution and alkaline buffering.
WorldMags
20 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
The saliva production difference
between the sexes is an important one,
as having less saliva makes women
more sensitive to sourness, bitterness
and astringency, which makes a male
assessment of a particularly astringent
Pinotage problematic for women and
vice versa.
Not only are there sex differences,
but spit levels differ between individu-
als. When fatigued or under stress, we
produce less spit, while the pH of our
bodies also varies constantly, with
higher body acidity coinciding with
greater organoleptic sensitivity. To a
low ow salivator (or even a high ow those enamel-eating acids present in
approaching the end of a line-up of 145
Cabernets at a wine tasting), wines will
The perception
of tannins (both
grape and oak)
is actually one
of touch...
taste more astringent, purely as a result
of low volumes of saliva.
The perception of tannins (both grape
and oak) is actually one of touch as
tannins coagulate proteins in saliva,
creating a perception of puckering or
a sensation of drying. Saliva is largely
responsible for the mouthfeel of a wine.
When we say a wine tastes velvety or
silky, we are reacting to the long chains
of molecules caused by the proteins in
the saliva reacting with tannins in the
wine. The shape and nature of these
stringy bits of spit you can see in any
spittoon are responsible for the percep-
tion of a wine as furry or grainy, while a
chewy or grippy wine is one whose as-
tringency has caused a tactile response
in its reaction to saliva.
Saliva is also important in protect-
ing the teeth of wine acionados as it
forms a glycoprotein layer and buffers
wine and what a sour line-up they are:
tartaric, salic, lactic, malic, acetic a
bit like the juice in a jar of Judys Extra
Strong Pickled Onions (the best ones).
The action of swishing wine liberally
around the mouth and then expecto-
rating makes sure that the teeth get
maximum exposure to wine acids, so the
American Academy of General Dentistry
recommends tasting wine through a
straw a dental health tip Georg Riedel
is unlikely to support.
Neil Pendock
is the wine writer
for the Sunday Times
and Financial Mail.
BELLE POQUE
Charming the Midlands
Suzy Bell discovers a bistro tucked away in KZN where food and
wine are best enjoyed at summers dusk.
heres nothing like a bistro by a
T lake to add fresh dimension to
drinking wine at Sunday lunch.
The lake was really more dam surrounded
by elds of sugarcane, fever trees and a
horny weaver colony. It was a stinking hot
day so, after our third glass of Hartenberg
Sauvignon Blanc 2009, we stripped down
to our knickers and dived into Tuckers
Dam. After a paddle we stumbled out
looking nothing like Jane Fonda from
On Golden Pond. A charming redhead
waitress who looked like Beatrix Potter
welcomed us back with potent caipirin-
has. Did you know that the giant black
WorldMags mamba in the Natal Museum display
comes from this farm, she informed us
with smug calm. There is another one
somewhere here, apparently two metres
long, she smiled and wandered off to
pick some fresh rocket and mint from the
organic vegetable garden.
Sepia Bistro is only 40 minutes from
Durban, the land of lightning, monkeys
and spicy pines. It is run by Hayley
Weston, a 24-year-old chef with a
mohican and a Christina Martin culinary
pedigree. Its here the summer drink at
dusk requests the refreshing company
of Hartenberg.
My last delightful French bistro esca-
pade was at Caf Le Fort which existed
once upon a time in the misty hills of the
KwaZulu-Natal Midlands where I enjoyed
a memorable, most merrily drunken lunch
in the rose garden with poet Sudeep Sen
and his wife Prithi. When we nally drove
back to a friends pottery farm listening
to Mozart in an attempt to calm ourselves
down, the brake took on the persona
of the accelerator and we managed to
gracefully ice-skate off the dirt road and
dramatically cartwheel into a ditch. My
WorldMags
22 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
classic golden Merc was a write-off.
Sensibly, I used the car pay-out to travel
up East Africa for three months and nally
learnt how to sail a dhow.
This time I did not offer to drive.
Five of us sped along the N2 down the
South Coast to arrive at this charming
thatch-roofed bistro wedged between
Mtwalume and Sezela. Its just off the
Its here the
summer drink
at dusk requests
the refreshing
company of
Hartenberg.
Ifafa Beach turn-off thats GPS 30
37 30 longitude, 3 27 37 latitude.
Theyre open for Sunday breakfast and
lunch until dusk. Its here where you can
gnaw away your Sunday on a tasty lamb
shank slow roasted in red wine and fresh
rosemary served with a red wine jus or
munch on a gourmet sarmie if you cant
be bothered with a knife and fork. Ive
been cooking since I was two years old,
laughed Hayley, handing me a starter
plate of chilli-dusted squid heads. I had
to make my own breakfast as my parents
ran a nightclub.
They have wine evenings where Hayley
pairs prawn and coriander rosti topped
with smoked salmon roses served with
a lemon, black pepper and coriander
cream with a cheery Anura Chardonnay.
For pudding she whisks up a puff pastry
basket lled with vanilla cream cheese,
topped with glazed fruits and accompa-
nied by berry coulis and a classy glass
of Anura Viognier Barrel Selection. The
wine list is small but suitably stylish and
is changed regularly, including offer-
ings from LAvenir, De Grendel and Ken
Forrester, a Graham Beck Cabernet Sau-
vignon Reserve, as well as Hayleys Unbe-
lievable Red house wine she recommends
with her gourmet burgers. I confessed to
never having eaten a burger in my life,
nor ever having downed a glass of Coca-
Cola because when we were children my
mum thankfully insisted we act French,
and slowly sip her wine.
Suzy Bell is a poet and writer based in
Cape Town. She runs Red Eye Creative,
curating contemporary African cultural
projects. She will con-
sider doing lunch with
you if you are eccentric,
odd or mildly interesting.
Email her at
bellsuzy@gmail.com.
www.suzybell.co.za

Get the
creative
juices flowing
THERE HAS BEEN a long-time link between art and wine, but
Spier Creative Block is an original project that is providing
ongoing support to the artistic community, and delivering award-
winning blends to dinner tables.
Creative Block is an art project providing an important
revenue stream for many local artists. Any artist emerging or
established creates work on a small block and submits it to
the Spier Arts Academy for selection. Collectors then choose a
number of blocks and hang them together, creating an artwork
that has the potential to be greater than the sum of its parts.
Spier cellarmaster, Frans Smit, recognised the synergy between
this project and the process of blending wine. Taking grapes from
WorldMags different varietals and vineyard blocks enables him to create wines
that are greater than the sum of their parts. Spier therefore named
its range of blended wines after the art project.
PROMOTION
There are three wines in the range: Spier Creative Block 2,
3 and 5 the numbers representing the varietals used in the
blend. Spier Creative Block 2 is a white Bordeaux-style blend
of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon; Spier Creative Block 3 is a
red Rhone-style blend of Shiraz, Mourvedre and Viogner; and
Spier Creative Block 5 is a red Bordeaux-style blend of Caber-
net Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and
Petit Verdot.
These wines performed exceptionally well at the recent Veritas
Awards, with Spier Creative Block 3 (2008) and 5 (2007)
achieving double gold medals, and Spier Creative Block 2
(2010) receiving a gold.
To buy the wines, visit www.spier.co.za. To purchase a block
from the art project, visit www.creativeblock.co.za.

By blending wine we
can get the best out
of each varietal and
create a layered wine
that has richness and
complexity. At the same
time, blending enables
more consistency from
vintage to vintage.
Its a wonderful art
and challenge for a
winemaker. Frans Smit

127)256$/(723(5621681'(57+($*(2)
WorldMags
 JUST A THOUGHT
Fine swine
Trendy and perfect for the health conscious,
pork is on everyones menu, says Justine Drake.
just dont dig on swine... I dont eat
I lthy animals, declared a very sexy
Samuel L Jackson in the famous diner
scene of Tarantinos utterly marvellous and
now iconic movie, Pulp Fiction.
Up until quite recently (when youre
my age that can be anything from ve to
10 years), I would have wholeheartedly
agreed with him. Not, you understand, for
any particular health or religious reasons,
and not, as SLJs character seems to
believe, because they are dirty animals
(they are, but it hardly matters when they
are plucked, scrubbed and looking spiffy
in polystyrene packaging). No, it was due
WorldMags to the fact that, back in the day, the pork
cuts on offer in supermarkets pretty much
consisted of pork leg chops and leg of
pork and, if you were very lucky, rack of
ribs. One cant help but wonder at the fate
of the other pig bits back then.
So, in my house it was oil-drenched
crumbed pork chops nice but pretty
tasteless, all things considered and
roasted leg complete with a fender of
crackling that my younger, more paranoid
self was convinced would make me fat for
life (concern for my arteries had not yet
manifested). It has only been in the last
ve years that the pork people and the
butchers have nally joined forces to give
us a wealth of pork cuts all delicious, all
affordable and many relatively low in fat.
Pork belly is on the menu of almost
every trendy restaurant (its price has in
turn escalated considerably). Cooked
right, its great, but you have to navigate
your way through mounds of fat and look
very hard to nd the meaty bits. Pork llet
is a favourite with all health-conscious
carnivores and the chops from various
body parts are prolic. But it is pork neck
that is by far the most succulent, versatile
WorldMags
24 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
and extraordinarily delicious cut of them
all. Pick n Pay sells pork-neck chops
pan-fry them in a little butter and olive oil,
then add verjuice, fresh sage, garlic and
chicken stock, and braise until cooked to
pale pink perfection, serve with cauliow-
er and potato mash, green beans and of
it is pork
neck that is by
far the most
succulent,
versatile and
extraordinarily
delicious cut
of them all.
course the pan juices a mid-week meal
to make a grown man (or woman) weep.
But better still is the whole neck. If you
get yourself organised and properly plan
your Sunday lunch, you can pop off to the
butcher and order a deboned pork neck to
roast. The recipe alongside and the gob-
smackingly delicious results guarantee
a soothing of family tensions, spousal
gratitude that could lead to greater things
and absolute proof that the swine is not so
much lthy but indeed mighty ne!
Cider and herb
roasted pork neck
Serves 6
1 pork neck, 1.6kg to 2kg,
deboned
1 large bunch spring onions,
chopped
cup sage, finely chopped
cup parsley, finely chopped
4 fat cloves of garlic, crushed
3 T vino cotto (a naturally sweet/
sour cooked wine syrup that
contains no alcohol. You can
find it on the shelves of PnP and
good delis)
2 T Dijon mustard
salt and milled pepper
1 bottle (340ml) cider
1 cup chicken stock
4 fresh bay leaves
Unravel the pork neck and
lay flat on a board. Mix herbs,
garlic, vino cotto and mustard to-
gether. Season well. Spread the
mixture over the pork, roll and
secure with kitchen string as best
you can. This is quite a messy
business and is best done by
two people. Place the roll in a
smallish roasting pan, pour over
the cider and stock. (The size of
the roasting pan is important;
liquid should be about 5cm deep
otherwise it will evaporate during
cooking.) Roast in a preheated
220C oven for 30 minutes. Re-
duce the heat to 160C and roast
for a further 30 minutes per 500g
or until done to your liking. Rest
for at least 15 minutes before
serving. Carve and serve with
mashed potato, roasted parsnips
and boiled beetroot.
Wine pairing:
Chamonix Pinot Noir 2009
Justine Drake is the
editor of Fresh Living
magazine.
 magazine public tasting

Taste SAs top-scoring

Chenin Blancs
Please join Wine magazine for an informative seated tasting of the top-scoring
wines from the 2011 Chenin Blanc Challenge.
The tastings will be presented by leading winemaker Erika Obermeyer from
Graham Beck Wines.

Wines included in the line-up:

Boschendal 2009 Katbakkies 2008
Fort Simon 2009 Klein Zalze Cellar Selection Bush Vines 2010
Graham Beck Bowed Head 2009 Leopards Leap 2010

WorldMags Jordan 2009

Kanu 2009
Perdeberg Rex Equus 2008
Rijks Private Cellar Reserve 2007
Kanu KCB 2007 Simonsig Avec Chne 2009

Tickets cost R150 per person (Wine magazine subscribers pay R130) and can be booked
by calling 0860 100 203 or by sending an email to subs@ramsaymedia.co.za. For more
information, please contact Kathryn Steenhuisen on 021 530 3308.

In the interest of fellow tasters, please refrain from wearing excessive perfume or aftershave.

CAPE TOWN JOHANNESBURG

Date: 24 March 2011 Date: 14 April 2011
Time 18:30 Time: 18:30
Venue: Mount Nelson Hotel Venue: Sandton Sun Hotel

WorldMags
PROMOTION

Checklist
The Checkers WINE ROUTE selection,
featuring wines from over 80 estates
at cellar prices.

Its hard to beat a day out in the winelands, but if you cant get there,
here is a suggested selection of wines from different local regions to be
found at a purchase point closer to home.

WorldMags

WorldMags
26 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
 What to drink with: 3,==$
A light- to medium-bodied red is the wine most people reach for when eating pizza and Merlot is often suggested to be the perfect pairing, thanks
to its smooth, soft texture. The red fruit avours pair well with the tomato sauce component of pizza and, provided its a lighter style, a Merlot will
work with most meat and vegetable toppings. But what of the thin, true Italian-style pizzas: a thin base charred from baking in a wood-red oven,
a layering of tomatoes, mozzarella and basil? Naturally, its not the base but whats on top thats going to affect your wine choice, and when one
starts to get into seafood pizza territory or even banana and pineapple toppings, if you must! the choice becomes a little more complicated.

TOP LEFT: THEUNISKRAAL CAPE RIESLING 2010 TOP RIGHT: DIEMERSDAL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010
WINE OF ORIGIN: Tulbagh WINE OF ORIGIN: Durbanville
Checkers price: R34.99 Checkers price: R55.99
Made from the juice of Crouchen Blanc grapes. Floral notes on On the nose, minerality and herbaceous notes, layered with
the nose, backed up by grass and green apples. Pleasing, crisp tropical fruit. In the mouth, a fresh, zesty palate with a lingering
acidity with nectarine and lime on the palate. taste of lime.

Seafood is the way to go with this Riesling calamari This wine is the perfect match to a vegetarian pizza. Pile
Note: wines are only available at Checkers stores with wine departments. Prices valid until 30 April 2011. Vintages that appear on these pages may in

tubes, shrimps and crab meat are good bets. Dont be pineapple wedges, asparagus and some mixed peppers
scared to add a squeeze of lemon juice to the calamari, which on top of a tomato base. Also consider a sprinkling of Chevin
will be well balanced by the acidity of the wine. (goats-milk cheese).
some cases differ between stores. For any queries, call Checkline, Checkers customer service centre on 0800 01 07 09 (toll-free).

MIDDLE LEFT: LOURENSFORD MERLOT 2009 MIDDLE RIGHT: PARADYSKLOOF PINOT NOIR 2009
WINE OF ORIGIN: Stellenbosch WINE OF ORIGIN: Stellenbosch
Checkers price: R79.99 Checkers price: R89.99
WorldMags Dark ruby core. Nose reveals plums, red cherries. Plenty of Lovely strawberry jelly and red cherry aromas on the nose. A
juicy fruit on the palate that also offers fresh acidity. Will light, smooth, fruit-driven palate that carries through the straw-
benet from two to three years in cellar. berry characteristics, together with some earthiness. Lingering,
soft nish.

Be generous with meaty toppings. Combine slices of This Pinot Noir calls for a delicately avoured pizza. Think
salami with ground beef and top with cheddar. Once Parma ham, fresh rocket leaves and mozzarella. (Dont
cooked, garnish with chopped fresh tomato and parsley. skimp on the mozzarella, though. Be sure to buy the very best.)

ODD BINS 811 CABERNET

BOTTOM LEFT: BOTTOM RIGHT: COLLEZIONE DANTI SANGIOVESE 2009
SAUVIGNON 2009 WINE OF ORIGIN: Emilia Romagno, Spain
WINE OF ORIGIN: Western Cape Checkers price: R29.99
Checkers price: R39.99 A bold nose exuding red berries and black plums. The palate
Dark plummy aromas, cassis and a hint of mint on the nose lead is silky smooth with a lingering, bright acidity. Light and easy
to a full-bodied palate that offers a smooth nish. drinking with just 11.5% alcohol.

Sangiovese is a great pairing with practically any type of

Use your leftovers from Sundays lamb roast to create pizza. It loves tomato-based dishes, so make sure your
a gourmet pizza. For cheese, stick to mozzarella or be pizza has a good tomato base. Then top with cheddar, slices
adventurous with a mild blue. Fresh tomato slices work well of chicken breast cooked in a barbeque sauce and
as a garnish. sliced mushrooms.

The secret of Odd Bins allows Checkers to sell selective lots of celebrated South African estate wines at prices far lower than
youd pay at the cellar but only as long as the name of the estate of origin remains a secret. If you taste a bottle of Odd Bins
carefully, the secret may just reveal itself upon your palate, but for the extra observant, the occasional estate cork or telltale
bottle shape could let the cat out the bag.
A tasting panel is responsible for choosing each new Odd Bins release in the ever-changing range. Every one of these Odd
Bins comes from a specic vintages harvest and, once its all sold, the same bin number is never available again.

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 27
 IN THE GLASS
around the world

Semillon Barossa Valley

from the

We highlight characteristics of international wines that correspond

with an equivalent grown here in South Africa.

WHO WERE UP AGAINST WHAT TO LOOK FOR

The Oxford Companion to Wine (2006
edition) describes Australian wines
as having an openness, a condent,
user-friendly style which reects the
national character (and climate). Wines,
especially Shiraz from the Barossa Valley,
are typically unashamedly big and rich
in avour, made in a style that is quite
opulent. The Barossa Valley is the heart of
Australias wine world, it being the largest
quality wine producer in the country and
also the most inuential. It is not a region
closely associated with Semillon the
variety more often linked to the Hunter
WorldMags Valley and Margaret River but Barossa is
home to some old, low-yielding Semillon
vines. Those featured here are from
Barossa Valley producers Peter Lehmann
and Torbreck, both young wineries
(founded in 1979 and 1994), considering
that most producers in the region come
from a history of Barossans, some going
back six generations.
Margaret Semillon, featured alongside,
has been punted as one of Australias
best, on a par with top wines from the TORBRECK
Hunter Valley, according to The Wine WOODCUTTERS
Opus. Although not one of the main SEMILLON 2003
varietals of the Barossa, the variety has PRICE: R237 FROM KEN FORRESTER
been receiving increased attention. Here Bright yellow with green tinge.
it is often harvested from very old, or Nose shows intriguing developed
ancient vines, resulting in concentrated, character, lanolin notes as well
balanced examples in bottle. Made in as tinned pineapple that follows
various styles from refreshing and through to a waxy palate. Bright
young, to the more weighty, bottle-aged acidity is well balanced with a hint
sorts Semillon typically exhibits a of oak. Solid nish.
bright, lemony character when young,
taking on some buttery, nutty character
with age.
NOTE: The examples of Barossa Valley
Semillon featured on these pages are
available from Ken Forrester Wines
Tel 021 855 2374 (Torbreck) and Glen
Carlou Tel 021 875 5528
(Peter Lehmann).

BAROSSA VALLEY, AUSTRALIA

Did you know?
Australia was never
affected by phylloxera,
which means the coun-
trys vines were never
replanted and grafted
onto disease-resistant
rootstock. This means
that some of the worlds
Barossa region
oldest vines are found ADELAIDE
in Australia, notably
the Barossa Valley and
McLaren Vale.

WorldMags
28 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
 PETER LEHMANN MAR-
GARET SEMILLON 2003
PRICE: R260 FROM GLEN CARLOU
Luminous green-yellow in colour.
Distinctive honeyed and waxy notes
on the nose with hint of lemon
rind. Delicious honey notes follow
through to palate, which shows im-
maculate, clean and balanced acid-
ity. Bright but weighty, lip-smacking
nish. Ample nesse here.
WorldMags
WorldMags
VERGELEGEN
SEMILLON 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R175
TEL: 021 847 1334
Pale yellow in colour. Subdued nose
shows hints of fynbos, pine needles
and some oak spice. Acidity slightly
pronounced to the point of being
tart. Lacks fruit on the palate.
Quite a bold, but enjoyable nish.
STONY BROOK
SEMILLON 2003
CELLAR PRICE: R85
TEL: 021 876 2182
Pale gold in colour. Lime and but-
tery notes with aromas of oak and
alcohol slightly pronounced. Oak
also somewhat prominent on the
palate, but has great structure and
weight. Hint of alcohol afterburn.
EN ROUTE
scenic routes
WorldMags
Into the heart of Bot River where rustic farm appeal and quiet
countryside abound, along with some vintage production methods.
THE ROUTE
Houw Hoek is one of the enigmatic Cape
passes allowing for panoramic view
points. Travelling along the N2 past Elgin
and Grabouw, allow for side meanderings
into a number of alluring places off
the beaten track. Houw Hoek Pass is
340 metres above sea level and, at the
pinnacle, a wide, sweeping view across
the moor-like landscape is quite inspiring
with its relatively unexplored terrain. If
one were to draw a global analogy, it is an
Africanesque sweep of land reminiscent
of Welsh moorland in its immensity and
stretch that seems to extend beyond
the horizon.
WorldMags
30 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
A corner
Words by Cathryn Henderson
Along the N2 at Exit 92, take the R43
turn-off to Bot River. Turning to the right
goes towards destination Hermanus; to the
left, Bot River. As a recommended route, a
quick few kilometres to the right will take
you on a sojourn to Wildekrans, a more
than worthwhile stop, and turning back
then leads into the small village of Bot
River. And all that seems impossible of
this harsh landscape becomes absolutely
possible once youve immersed yourself in
the area.
FIRST STOP: HOUW HOEK
FARM STALL
Travelling from Cape Town, immediately
to keep in mind
visible on the right from the N2, be sure
to stop at this farm stall for a range of
goodies that indulge many of the senses
and hobby interests. There is a small
coffee shop and, in the deli section, a
range of home-baked pies, biscuits, olive
oils, vinegars, jams, fruit and vegetables
fresh from the farms in Elgin Valley, as
well as a nursery that grows the colourful
and some of the indigenous. At the back
is a wine shop, stocked with wines at
cellar price, mostly sourced from the
Hemel-En-Aarde Valley and Bot River.
Trout shing is also available for those
into their leisure activities.
Stock up on some unique produce
 Paardenkloof

OPPOSITE PAGE TOP: Train tracks follow the route of the Houw Hoek Pass.
THIS PAGE: (Top to bottom) The Wildekrans tasting room is somewhat off
the beaten track, but a warm atmosphere awaits. Self-catering cottages
are available for hire on the farm. Fifty-six hectares are under vine at
Wildekrans, with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay having been recent additions.

WorldMags

and enjoy that ambience of being on
the road and taking a brief pause at
somewhere special: an aperitif to wine
routing. Tel 028 284 9015;
www.houwhoekfarmstall.co.za
SECOND STOP:
WILDEKRANS
A lengthy dirt road leads to the cellar
against a seemingly isolated, untouched
setting. New vineyards are being planted
along this stretch, most likely Merlot,
but the operating vineyards lie to the
back, in the heart of the valley. The
straw-coloured elds are typical of
African savannah veld; but this is of
course Cape terrain with semi-Karoo
characteristics. The wines are an
expression of the unique cool-climate
terroir, with vineyards on gently sloping
hills overlooking Walker Bay.
The tasting room has a hushed, out-
of-the-way ambience, but the pourer is
full of warmth and enthusiasm about the
wines. All are superb. Of note are the
Chenins, both the standard range (R45)
and the Osiris, a range which includes
the barrel-fermented Chenin (R122)
and a special barrel-fermented Pinotage
(R125), made from free-run juices and
matured in a combination of French and
American oak barrels for 18 months. The
label is interesting: an Egyptian god of
agriculture, reigning supreme.
The Wildekrans MCC is made from
Chenin Blanc juices produced by whole-
bunch pressing and was sold out at the
time of visiting. The Shiraz (R75) with
pepper and spice and a touch of the bos
will remind you of your visit when you
decide to open it up at home.
Tel 0282849902; www.wildekrans.com
As well as Wildekrans Country House,
nine old cottages on the Wildekrans
estate have been renovated and are
now available as self-catering getaways,
situated between a vineyard and a plum
orchard on the banks of the Bot River

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 31
EN ROUTE
scenic routes
(rates are between R1 000 and
R1 350 per cottage depending on size.
Tel 084228 2824).
THIRD STOP:
BEAUMONT WINERY
It is hard to identify the one absolute must-
see element of the family run Beaumont
Winery. With a charm that ows through
from something done close to the heart,
the Chenin resonates with its region. Beau-
mont aims to produce a consistent style of
what it calls the straight Chenin (R60).
Slow cold fermentation in stainless-steel
and concrete tanks with post-
fermentation lees contact is used.
There is also the Raoul lifestyle wine
range, named after the father of the farm.
Raoul, who was a maverick of both vine-
yards and motorcycles, has brought about
Raouls Old Basket Press Shiraz Ros
2010 (R50), a wine of fresh charm and
soft delights from his favourite vineyards
an excellent aperitif or lunchtime wine.
On the label, the Old Basket Press name is
WorldMags carried through with an old-world style in
its calligraphy.
Sebastian, the twinkly eyed winemaker
and Raouls son, is particularly enigmatic
when he speaks about the wines and elabo-
rates on the background of the old basket
presses on the farm. They will be the next
project of hobby-engineer Andy Selfe, who
plans to renovate them into working
condition during the coming months.
Andys love of renovating machinery be-
gan with the farms old mill. Built in 1904,
it is once again in full working order with
the wonderful abandon of creaking sounds
that pulleys and levers make to keep the
mill grinding wheat into wholesome our
for bread with avour. It is fascinating how
the age-old concepts of some 100 years
ago are coming back into awareness, with
a willingness to replicate these within
our time. Sebastian says that his family,
in days gone by, remembers many of the
village dwellers arriving to have their grain
ground by the mill.
It is a Vitruvian mill, hence the name of
the wine Vitruvian 2006 (R260) described
as: a blend of the best and most interest-
ing portions of red grapes from the farm.
WorldMags
32 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
PICTURED HERE: The old water mill at Beaumont today
still grinds our that is used to make bread.
BELOW: A converted railway station is home to The
Shuntin Shed, a 60s-styled restaurant.
Mourvdre represents the centre and the
energy of this wine the guts. Pinotage
from old vines is the backbone and the
structure; not dark and heavy but rather
light and dry. Shiraz is the muscle that
holds it all together and adds the right
amount of exibility. Cabernet Franc is the
mystery, the emotion, the changing ele-
ment that adds lightness and freshness.
Hope Marguerite Chenin Blanc 2010
(R145), named after this generations
grandmother, has always been made to ex-
press the purity of the grape, with the rst
vintage in 1997. Only fruit selected from
the oldest Chenin Blanc vineyard, planted
in 1978, is used for this wine. Barrel
fermentation takes place in 400 French
oak using only natural yeasts. A lovely food
wine that promises ageing ability.
Goutte dOr 2007 (R115) Noble Late
Harvest consists of 66% Semillon and
34% Sauvignon Blanc botrytis grapes. It
pairs beautifully with the farms home-
baked biscotti.
Wife of Sebastian, Nici, also produces
a range of interesting accompaniments
as part of her catering company Zest (see
Foodie Finds on page 18). Tel 028 284
9194; www.beaumont.co.za
FOURTH STOP:
THE SHUNTIN SHED
Out of Beaumont Winery, turn right and
immediately left before the railway line.
Here is a little piece of 60s history just
dying to be appreciated in the same
manner as the current owners. Music from
the 1960s echoes out of the entrance
of what is the converted original railway
station. And inside is a caboose of
note, with chairs and vinyl booths in a
green that reminds one of old-fashioned
bankers lamps and has been kept true to
form of a train cabin back in the day.
Sit outside on the deck overlooking the
town of Bot River and enjoy a pizza that
is supremely satisfying after a merry wine
tasting, going back to basics with moreish-
ness; there is little to beat a simple
margherita pizza with buffalo mozzarella,
freshly picked tomatoes and fragrant basil.
The restaurant is also renowned for ribs
and slow-cooked pork roast on a Sunday.
Wines complement the rustic and back-
to-the-good-earth feel, with a small but
well-selected range, including Barton from
the surrounding area. Tel 028 284 9443;
www.theshuntinshed.co.za
FIFTH STOP: FEITEIRAS
If you have time on your hands, also
worthy of a visit is Feiteiras (tastings by
appointment only), where you can view
one of the few working pole basket presses
in South Africa and taste the estates
Verdelho 2009, a trophy winner at the Old
Mutual Trophy Wine Show 2010.
WorldMags

WorldMags
 at the cellar door
EN ROUTE
History & elegance
This wine and brandy estate, whose name means lookout, offers a
tasting experience that combines the traditional and the trendy.
Words by Cathy Marston
hen visiting Uitkyk, it feels as if
W everything stops at the gates of
mighty Kanonkop, leaving only
determined tasters to continue on to the
older, more established farm beyond. The
road becomes more potholey, the elds
on either side are bare and stubbly, but
as you approach the lovely, elegant manor
house with its lush green lawns and quirky
jungle gym, the extra few hundred yards
drive seems worth it.
Dripping in the 33C heat, we made
our way to the tasting room, entering past
tinkling water features. Inside is a big,
WorldMags modern space with a small conference
section at one end and a walk-round wine
shop at the other. The assistant greeted
us with a smile and then ran through the
tasting options R15 for ve wines or
R20 for a brandy and chocolate tasting.
The latter involves handmade Huguenot
chocolates from Franschhoek, paired with
Uitkyks famous Grand Reserve brandy,
the oldest estate-matured potstill brandy
in South Africa. It sounded delicious, but
we were too hot for chocolate, so decided
on the wine tasting.
I chose from the estates second-label
range the 2010 Flat Roof Manor Pinot
Ros (R55). Its a blend of Pinotage and
Pinot Grigio a fascinating combo and a
great mouthful of juicy fruit with a clean,
crisp nish. I would have liked to have
been told more about the wine, but the
assistant seemed initially content to pour
and push off. Although, happily, after a
little prompting, she became much more
forthcoming and went into detail about
the Italian grape varieties and how
successful they were proving for the farm.
Moving on to the Flat Roof Manor
Cabernet/Sangiovese 2007 (R40), we
WorldMags
34 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
Photographs by Toby Murphy
realised that it wasnt just us who were
feeling the heat this was a light, chewy,
fruity red which desperately needed to
be served cooler than it was. In fact, all
VERDICT
LIKES
The assistant knew her stuff and
the reds would have beneted from half- communicated well after a slowish
an-hour in the fridge, but thankfully the start. Excellent value wines,
whites were refreshingly cold. I enjoyed particularly the top-range reds.
the well-balanced Uitkyk Chardonnay
2009 (R65), but found the Sauvignon DISLIKES
Blanc 2010 (R50) to be too much of The inexibility on the
a granadilla-packed fruit bomb for tasting charge.
my taste.
Uitkyks agship wine, Carlonet, is now WHAT ELSE IS THERE?
in its 50th year of release. Named after a Pop into Kanonkop on the way and
combination of the rst winemakers name take a look at its art gallery, then
Carlo with the net from Cabernet on head up the road to Warwick for a
the end, it has been a Cape stalwart for delicious picnic.
so long that it can easily be overlooked.
Big mistake this is a fantastic Cab with
the 2007 showing lots of fruit, plenty of
soft, but present tannins and a good juicy
length serious over-delivery at R84 a
bottle and probably my favourite wine
of the day, although my tasting partner
preferred the Reserve Shiraz 2007 (R110)
which is made only in exceptional years
and is exclusively available from the
tasting room. All the reds were very well-
priced considering the quality and well
worth a second look.
We bought a few bottles of wine to
take home, so I would like to have seen
GPS:
the tasting fee waived for one of us at S 33 5124.8 E18 5150.7
least, but that only happens with R250-
worth of purchases per person, which UITKYK is on the R44 just off the
seems quite steep. The assistant pack- N1 (take the Klapmuts turn-off) and
aged the wines carefully, smiled, took the is signposted from the main road.
money and wished us a good day, but as The tasting room is open Monday to
we left the tasting room after a nal look Friday, 09:00 to 17:00, and weekends
around, she had already retreated to her 10:00 to 16:00. Tel 021884 4416;
computer. The day was simply just too www.uitkyk.co.za
darned hot for us all!
WorldMags

Uitkyks tasting
room is situated
in the shell of
the historic cellar.
Here glass columns
display compacted soil,
rocks and roots from the
estates vineyards.

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 35
COVER STORY
lavenir

Love in here

WorldMags

Not sure how to pronounce the French name of Stellenbosch wine farm
LAvenir? Its easy, laughs CEO and cellarmaster Tinus Els. Every time
you drink a glass, just remember that theres love in here!
Words by Joanne Gibson Photographs by Toby Murphy

Avenir cellarmaster and CEO Ti- Francois Naud, responsible for more LAvenir from founder Marc Wiehe in

L nus Els seems a little taken aback

that I want to talk to him about
Cabernet Sauvignon: But were famous
for our Pinotage!
Theres no disputing it. Tinus pred-
ecessor in the Stellenbosch cellar was
ABSA Top 10 Pinotages than any other
winemaker and a triple winner of the
Perold Trophy for best Pinotage at the
International Wine & Spirit Competition
in London. And when famous Chablis
producer Michel Laroche purchased
2005, he was determined to continue de-
veloping Pinotage as the propertys ag-
ship red, duly introducing the domaines
icon Grand Vin Pinotage which, at R250
a bottle, sells as steadily if not as quickly
as the standard bottling (R100). Id be

WorldMags
36 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
 lavenir

Nonetheless, he seems pleased that he
and his team (farm manager Lodewyk Re-
tief, consultant viticulturist Johan Pienaar
and assistant winemakers Mattheus Thabo
and Dirk Coetzee) can now focus on the
core wine business again. Back to basics
is going to be my New Years resolution for
the next ve years! Im looking forward to
seeing what we can really do at LAvenir
from now on.
BACK TO THE FUTURE
Born and raised in Orkney (North
West Province), Tinus moved to Stel-
lenbosch in 1991 to study agriculture
at Elsenburg. Dairy farming was my
main subject until the college head said
viticulture and oenology might also be a
good option! After graduating, his rst
job was at Nelsons Creek in Paarl, and
he then spent two years at Koelenhof in
Stellenbosch and three years at Nordale
in Bonnievale. Working the 1999 harvest
in Bordeaux led to a six-year stint as
a ying winemaker, working mainly in
WorldMags France with a season in Spain and Chile
respectively and it was a colleague in
Chile who mentioned that Michel Laroche
was looking to buy a farm in South Visit LAvenir and youre likely to
encounter Max, Mischa and Tinus
Africa. I met Michel at Vinexpo in June
roaming the vineyards.
2005; two months later I was here.
Tinus lives on the property. Its 90%
great; 10% too close to work, he jokes,
which means that guests at the lodge and
visitors to the tasting room are almost
certain to encounter him and his two
Bouviers, Max and Mischa (I call them
my two little ies because they follow me
everywhere). At the moment their diet
consists largely of grapes off the vines a
good indication of physiological ripeness.
The Pinotage is already mostly in tank;
the later-ripening Cab still hanging.
Its always the last thing we pick,
reveals Tinus, taking me to see two
closely situated blocks on north-west
slopes in the foothills of the Simonsberg
mountains, overlooking Beyerskloof and
Its simply
Mulderbosch on the other side of the a matter of
valley. Accounting for six hectares of
36ha currently under vine (with a further doing the right
1.8ha having recently been grafted onto
old Cab Franc vines and a further 2ha
things at the
due to be planted next year), Cab yields right time.
are a modest ve tonnes per hectare
thanks to the age of the older vines
(26 years) and the fact that they are not

THE CELLARMASTER RECOMMENDS... irrigated unless absolutely necessary

during the hot, dry summer months. The
WHAT TO DO Indian Ocean is less than 20km away,
Tinus says no visit to Stellenbosch is complete without exploring Dorp and Church with gentle sea breezes exerting a cool-
Streets and spending a couple of hours at the Rupert Museum, particularly for its ing inuence in the afternoons. Were
impressive Pierneef collection (tel 021 888 3344; www.rupertmuseum.org). Then fortunate to have good terroir from which
head for the best homemade pasta in town at Asta la Pasta (tel 021887 7300). we get good grapes, says Tinus. Making
Out of town, he strongly recommends exploring Jonkershoek Valley (home to the this wine is easy; its simply a matter of
likes of Lanzerac, Le Riche and Stark-Cond) and his favourite restaurants are doing the right things at the right time.
Overture at Hidden Valley Wines (tel 021 880 2721; www.dineatoverture.co.za) Displaying a savoury, cigar-box nose
and George Jardines restaurant at Jordan Wine Estate (tel 021 881 3612; with a gentle smokiness behind intense
www.jordanwines.com/restaurant). cassis and mulberry fruit, the 2008 is
elegant and creamy, with a rm tannic
Views at Overture one of Tinus favourite restaurants
backbone. Like all our wines, it has nice
spill out over the Stellenbosch valley.
fruit but is not fruit-driven; it has cedar
wood and spice without being overpow-
ered by oak. In terms of style, LAvenir is
denitely placed somewhere between the
old and new world.
WHAT TO EAT WITH THE LAVENIR CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008 I can see why the judges were im-
I would serve a springbok pie, says Tinus. Any venison with a slightly wild taste pressed, but Tinus cant resist pouring
would be good, but not ostrich which needs something sweeter like Pinotage. me a glass of his Bordeaux-style blend,
Chargrilled steak with a touch of pepper would also work, as would confit de the LAvenir Stellenbosch Classic 2008.
canard or saucissons... The Cab component in this wine is

WorldMags
38 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011

The Stellenbosch property is perhaps best
known for producing award-winning Pinotage,
yet the Cabernet Sauvignon, produced from six
hectares on the farm, has now also impressed.
WorldMags
pleased if our Cabernet Sauvignon sold
as well [as our Pinotage] but thats not
the case, Laroche told Wine magazine
back in 2006.
That might change now that the
LAvenir Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 has
been named top performer in Wines
annual Cab review. All Tinus knows at the
time of our interview is that the wine has
done well but already he has been on
the phone to his Scandinavian distribu-
tor. We had 2 000 bottles ready for
shipment to Sweden, but Ive asked them
to take the 2009 vintage instead.
Its a canny move, and one indication
WorldMags
of how LAvenir has gone from strength
to strength with Tinus at the helm. A few
green grape skins in his hair attest to the
fact that he was dealing with a burst pipe
shortly before my arrival and my visit is
a disruption in itself given that harvest is
in full swing yet he seems completely
unustered. I start to understand how
he has steadied this ship through the
purchase of neighbouring Sentinel Vine-
yards, the transformation of Sentinels
concrete castle into the magnicent
Venue@LAvenir, a spacious, modern
tasting facility and one of Stellenboschs
romantic wedding venues and, after all
that, the recent decision to sell the prop-
erty (transfer was due to go through at
the end of February, and tellingly the new
owners will not be growing grapes but
plums...). And then theres the fact that
parent company Laroche has itself been
swallowed up by Languedoc producer and
wine merchant Jeanjean to form Advini,
the third-largest wine company in France
(www.advini.com).
Thats a fair amount of upheaval even
before you throw in the construction and
running of LAvenirs luxury 11-room
country lodge. Oh, and they grow sought-
after olives too, though Tinus describes
these as organic because they pretty
much have to grow by themselves. But
I denitely dont get bored, laughs
the self-described jack of all trades. It
keeps me humble!
LAVENIR
CABERNET
SAUVIGNON 2008
In 2008, a warm, dry summer result-
ed in ripe and healthy grapes small
berries with thick skins that were
handpicked in three stages, on 12, 14
and 19 March. After destemming, the
grapes were cold soaked for 24 hours,
then fermented at between 24C and
28C, with gentle pumpovers done
every four hours. The intensity of
pumpovers varies from vintage to
vintage and is used to elicit the best
colour and tannin extraction.
After alcoholic fermentation, the
wine was pressed and given an
additional seven days of maceration
on its skins. Malolactic fermentation
took place in tank, after which the
wine was put in 225 French barrels
(10% second-fill, 90% third-fill) to
mature for 12 months. It was then
bottled without fining under strict
quality-control guidelines and
winemaker supervision.
Wine analysis: Alcohol by volume
is 14%; acidity is 3.1g/ (sulphuric)
and 5.8g/ (tartaric), pH is 3.6 and
residual sugar is 2.1g/.
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 37

WorldMags
Tinus Els
CEO and cellarmaster
actually better than the Cab we used for
the single-variety bottling, he condes.
Our Swedish buyer kept saying shed
like to taste more fruit in the blend and
in the end I agreed to put our top Cab
in there. So the straight Cab is actually
plan B!
WorldMags
Lodewyk Retief
Farm manager
N BOER MAAK N PLAN
Given that plan B clearly works out for
the best sometimes, Tinus isnt in the
least bit concerned that LAvenir has lost
its state-of-the-art tasting facilities with
the sale of the former Sentinel property.
Visitors are still welcomed by top-notch
TA S T I N G N OT E S
For the full Cabernet
Sauvignon tasting report,
with tasting notes, prices and
more, turn to page 70.
Dirk Coetzee
Assistant winemaker
Mattheus Thabo
Assistant winemaker
tasting-room manager Leona Howard,
but in the cosier connes of what were
previously open-plan ofces. Overlooking
lawns which stretch down to the dam,
it certainly makes for more personalised
tastings. We dont want LAvenir to be a
stuffy place, says Tinus, revealing family
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 39
 lavenir
ON THE WEB
MORE ON
CABERNET SAUVIGNON AT
www.winemag.co.za
Stark-Cond Three Pines Ca-
bernet Sauvignon 2008: a good
wine from a shit vintage
WorldMags by Christian Eedes
friendly plans for a climbing frame and
sandpit outside.
The interior, meanwhile, is dominated
by a remarkable portrait of Nelson Man-
dela by University of Stellenbosch student
Soma Soma Holloway, snapped up by
Tinus on auction along with two cases
of Le Vin de Francois, wine made by his
predecessor. Despite being semi-retired,
Naud still consults at LAvenir and a
few other farms, from which he selects a
barrel or two every year for selling under
his own name, along with an artwork that
captures the essence of where the wine
was produced in this case Freedom Hill,
the Paarl property overlooking Draken-
stein Prison (formerly Victor Verster)
where Nelson Mandela took his rst steps
to freedom (see www.levindefrancois.
co.za for more information).
Art is an important feature of LAvenir,
right down to the capsules on each bottle
with their Picasso-esque eye, nose and
mouth to symbolise the seeing, breathing
and tasting of wine. But Tinus is currently
most excited about a painting that he has
WorldMags
40 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
VISITING
LAVENIR
LAvenir, R44, Stellenbosch.
GPS coordinates:
S 33 53 18.7 E 18 50 59.1
Tel: 021889 5001
info@lavenir.co.za
A portrait of Madiba hangs in LAvenirs new tasting
room. The space, which was once an open-plan www.lavenir-south-africa.com
ofce, is now relaxed and welcoming.
The Country Lodge: The 11 rooms
at this four-star lodge are classified
in three tiers, namely Classic (from
commissioned from friend and acclaimed R740pps during high season), Plati-
local artist Frans Groenewald. It will basi- num (from R860pps) and Icon (two
cally sum up what LAvenir is all about, self-catering units at R1 230pps),
he says. Its fun. all prices inclusive of a full South
It has to be said that Tinus touch African breakfast.
is everywhere, to the point that I cant
resist asking about Michel Laroches Tasting and sales: Monday to
involvement if any. After all, LAvenir Friday 9:00 to 17:00, Saturday and
was always just one of eight wines in the Sunday 10:00 to 16:00.
Laroche stable, and Laroche itself is now
just one of seven brands since its acqui- Wines available ex-cellar:
sition by Jeanjean. Michel only comes Ros (R40)
to SA on holiday these days, says Tinus, Chenin Blanc (R55)
who nonetheless says that being part of a Sauvignon Blanc (R55)
large multinational has its benets, most Chardonnay (R60)
notably the easy exchange of information Merlot (R55)
with international colleagues. It is the Cabernet Sauvignon (R85)
advantage of belonging to the same fam- Stellenbosch Classic (R85)
ily: we can exchange our ideas and expe- Pinotage (R100)
riences in order to constantly contribute Grand Vin Pinotage (R250)
to the improvement of our wines.
But the fact that the company takes Of course we have the people who
care of LAvenirs foreign distribution come here just for our olives and
(with exports accounting for a whopping dont want to taste wine, says Tinus.
90% of sales) is not necessarily a good They irritate me just a little bit...
thing because the focus is rmly on the
cultivars deemed most emblematic of the Retailers outside Cape Town:
country: Pinotage and Chenin Blanc (cer- Norman Goodfellows, Johannesburg
tainly a big part of LAvenirs production Tel 011 788 4814
but by no means all of it). Local distribu- www.ngf.co.za
tion, meanwhile, is done by Vinimark,
Johnnys Liquor Hypermarket,
SAs largest independent specialist wine
Pretoria
wholesaler whose partners include the
Tel 012991 4999
likes of Boekenhoutskloof and Reyneke,
www.johnnysliquor.co.za
among others. Naturally their focus is on
their own brands, so the challenge is for
Buxton La Cave, Durban
us to get more people to the farm and to
Tel 031 572 6073
make sure they have a nice experience.
www.buxtonsliquors.co.za
Which they almost certainly will, at
least if my visit is anything to go by.
 Next month in

magazine
RATED!
Pinotage and Pinotage blends

Boerewors
SAs culinary icon and the
wines you should choose

Travelling to the heart of

Amarula
Investigating
counterfeit wine labels

ON SALE 18 APRIL
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January 2010 saw us opening a 20 000m customs licenced, wine warehouse.

A state of the art facility that will be systems driven, which will allow wine exporters
real time stock control - thus ensuring every shipment arrives on time, every time.

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IN THE GLASS
pinotage

4++**
Pinotage
A
has-bean?

The argument might

be terribly pass but
WorldMags the coffee Pinotage
fascination seems
never-ending with
a number of other
varietals adding their
own coffee-mocha-
toffee-chocolate
labels to shelves.
Should we start
serving our wine
with our breakfast
croissant?
Words by Jeanri-Tine van Zyl

n 2001, South African drinkers were thing. Immediately it had the wine world KWV, called Caf Culture, before moving

I introduced to what would become a

global hit: coffee-avoured Pinotage
in the form of Diemersfontein Pinotage.
Pioneered by winemaker Bertus Fourie,
the red wine with the distinct coffee notes
had previous non-wine drinkers in a mad
craze. This was the next big, best-loved
divided. Experts criticised it for the oak
and cellar techniques intentionally applied
to mask more traditional Pinotage aromas
and taste, to instead amplify coffee
aromas while others simply adored it.
Fourie (with the nickname Starbucks)
created a similar style of Pinotage at
to Val de Vie wine estate in Paarl, where
the famous Barista red wines are brewed
by his hands. Defending his work, Fourie
makes a valid statement: if this style
of wine is converting previous beer and
whisky drinkers to wine drinkers, then
whats the harm?

WorldMags
42 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011

WorldMags
Traditionalists argue against this de-
mocratisation of wine, purely because it
is not Pinotage according to one avid
member of the Pinotage Association.
Diemersfontein, incidentally, also
produces one of South Africas prime
examples of the varietal. The Carpe Diem
Pinotage the 03 vintage won the
SA Red Wine Trophy at the Interna-
tional Wine Challenge in 2005 and was
auctioned at the Nederburg Auction
impresses with aromas of ripe, red fruit
and, intriguingly, hints of white choco-
late. On his blog, baristawine.co.za, Fou-
rie quoted Diemersfontein owner David
Sonnenbergs interesting analogy to the
argument: I feel like the parent of two
teenage daughters one is a classically
trained violinist who dresses modestly
and pulls the crowds in the exclusive
concert halls; the other, a mini-skirted
and occasionally provocative pop star
who wows the younger generation but has
fans of all ages. Is it therefore safe to
WorldMags
WORTH A LOOK
Examples of mocha/coffee-
flavoured Pinotages:
Diemersfontein Pinotage R64
Val de Vie Barista R60
KWV Caf Culture R46
Boland Cellar Cappupino
Ccinotage R42.50
Simonsvlei Ja-Mocha R75
Clos Malverne Le Caf Pinotage R76
Other wines made in a
flavoured style:
Simonsvlei Toffee Chunk
Shiraz R85
The Chocolate Block R129.41
De Krans Tinta Mocha R38.16
Vrede En Lust Mocholate
Malbec R80
conclude that the majority of South Afri-
can wine drinkers prefer Bieber to Bach?
Wineries have been quick to cotton-on
to this marketing wave. Since the launch
of the Diemersfontein Pinotage, the wine-
drinking public has been inundated with
examples of wines with coffee aromas.
The list is long and has been extended
to include other varieties apart from the
traditionally accepted Pinotage (see box
above for some examples).
Pinotage is South Africas very own,
indigenous, wine grape. It was pioneered
on local soil by Professor Perold when
he crossed Pinot Noir with Cinsault (pre-
viously known as Hermitage), with the
rst bottling taking place at Lanzerac
in 1959. It has since evolved into a
varietal with a fair amount of supporters
and detractors.
It has been observed that three styles of
Pinotage exist: those which take after their
Burgundian line with aromatic, red berry
aromas with a medium-bodied structure
 pinotage
and velvety tannins; those that are riper
in style displaying black fruit, prune and
are intense and concentrated on the pal-
ate; and, nally, the coffee-mocha styles.
The latter being a bit of a broad descrip-
tor to denote the variety, as coffee is a
philandering style that can be found in
everything from Malbec to Cabernet.
Although it remains Pinotage which
seems most susceptible to this coffee
style. Is it something worth pursuing? In
2009, after having tasted 25 examples of
Pinotage at Wosas London Megatasting,
Richard Hemming, a contributor to Jancis
Robinsons website, observed: The Pinot
Noir style, while often tasty, didnt seem
to contribute anything new or unique, and
will never reach the pure excellence of its
progenitor So, for my money, the pio-
neering Diemersfontein coffee style is the
way ahead, because it is simultaneously
excellent quality and completely unlike
any other wine style I have tried, and that
lends it most value to the diversity of the
wine world, as well as giving South African
WorldMags wine a quite unique agship.
Winemaker Beyers Truter, of Beyers-
kloof, as chairman of the Pinotage As-
sociation, is perhaps the most devoted of
Pinotages many guardians, but he is wary
to comment on the coffee-Pinotage styles,
precisely because he doesnt agree that it
shows the wine in its best, truest form.
Truter, together with the Pinotage
Association, has been instrumental in
guarding the reputation of Pinotage; a
grape that comes with a lot of baggage. Of
the descriptors that had been bestowed on
it, coffee is denitely the least offensive.
To the disdain of the association, Pinotage
has had to deal with a range of non-atter-
ing descriptors: rusty nails was a favour-
ite adjective applied by the international
community in the 1990s, whereas burnt
rubber and baked banana added further
insult to injury.
Beyers explains: Those (descriptors) are
due to faulty winemaking practices, and
not limited to Pinotage. Too cold fermenta-
tion and incorrect pH management caused
a lot of less desirable aromas in Pinotage,
but together with the association, a lot of
education has gone into Pinotage-sensitive
WorldMags
44 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
cellar practices. There has also been
a move away from wines with too much
wood, tannin and alcohol.
To illustrate his point, and to showcase
what he believes is a more authentic
style of Pinotage, Beyers presented me
with a vertical tasting of Pinotage dating
back to Lanzeracs 1969 vintage. Also
included in the line-up were Simonsig
78, Zonnebloem 88, Kanonkop 99 and
Beyerskloof Diesel 07, a spectrum of
wines that Truter believes illustrate the
more desirable, genuine Pinotage charac-
teristics: plums, red and black fruit with
a sweet undertone and velvety tannins.
The series also demonstrated that Pino-
tage has an inclination to mature beauti-
fully, indicative of a varietal that has
more potential than just instant, mass
gratication. But these wines are hard to
come by (the Lanzerac 69, says Beyers,
is priceless, but if you do nd a bottle,
you will have to pay close to R2 000),
while youd have to fork out close to
R400 for the Kanonkop and Beyerskloof
Diesel. Is it fair to conclude that, with
Pinotage, price equals quality? Beyers is
adamant that there is good drinking to
be had at a far lower price point, which
is often where consumers encounter the
coffee labels.
At all times wine producers should
chase classic balance, he says if that
is achieved then coffee-mocha aromas
become secondary, but it is when it domi-
nates all the ner nuances of a wine that
it becomes a problem.
It is a personal thing, but in my
opinion, there is more satisfaction to be
had listening to Bachs Violin Concerto
in A minor than another teenager in a
mini-skirt
ON THE WEB
MORE ON PINOTAGE AT
www.winemag.co.za
Diemersfontein Pinotage has taken
South Africa by storm. This is why
by Joanne Gibson
How to make Pinotage and goji
berry chutney by Anna Trapido
WorldMags
WorldMags
Zonnebloem 88
Distinct farmyard character on nose. Not as liberal and enticing as the other
wines in flight. Acidity slightly pronounced, but has a savouriness to
it which lends appeal.

Lanzerac 69
A wine that demands respect. Savoury notes dominate, with hints of red
berry reminiscent of youth. Gentle in the mouth but with good weight
and integration.

Lanzerac 69 (375ml)
Perfumed nose with black fruit. Intense and delicious savoury notes on a
palate that keeps evolving.

Kanonkop 99
Upfront nose shows bright, ripe plums and even some peach. Sweet oak spice
with fine, but pronounced tannins. This wine still needs time. Drink in 20 or
30 years.

Simonsig 78
Dense black and red fruit, with hints of toffee too. Very structured, solid mid-
palate showing a melange of black fruit and plums.
PINOTAGE: THE VERTICAL TASTING

Diesel 07
Attention-grabbing nose shows ripe plums, incense, vanilla and white
ageing capability that stood out. One of the wines was over 40 years old, and still going strong

chocolate. Sweet, juicy tannins on a substantial palate with core of black

APRIL 2011
and red fruit. Immaculate balance and length.
R AT I N G S

On sale 18 April.

A vertical tasting demonstrated the range of flavours and complexity that Pinotage is capable of. But it was the
Pinotage and Pinotage blends.
magazine in which we rate SAs
Look out for the next issue of Wine

Winemag.co.za
45
 AROUND THE TABLE
spatz
pietsperling
du toit

46
WorldMags
WorldMags

Winemag.co.za
 WINE LEGENDS

and
determination
T H E S T O RY O F S PAT Z S P E R L I N G
WorldMags

Spatz Sperling came from Germany to South Africa with little more
than a pocket of cash. He found a home in Stellenbosch, on a farm
previously known as De Drie Sprong now Delheim and the local
wine industry is the richer for it.
Words by Jeanri-Tine van Zyl Photographs by Toby Murphy

his is important to know. Sperling icon. (But please dont tell him he is a farms pine forest and it has him upset.

T means sparrow, with Spatz be-

ing the diminutive, affectionate
form. A Spatz can come from nowhere,
and it sits where it shouldnt, tells the
man who is nicknamed after this little
naughty bird. Spatz Sperling smiles at
his analogy, sitting upright in his plush,
olive-coloured chair in his Delheim home.
Vera Sperling, his wife, weaves in and out
of the room like a bird herself, cluck-
ing and teasing, but also guarding and
praising the man who, she admits, is an
legend, hes got a big head already!) In
1975, Spatz named a patch of vineyards
on top of Klapmutskop, to the north-west
of the farm Veras Cruz (meaning Veras
Cross), after this ever-present gure in
his life. It commemorates the cross and
suffering Ive had to bear since marrying
Sperling, she teases, but they seem as
inseparable as swans.
As a prologue to the interview, Spatz
offers his apologies: My heart is shaking
today. Pine trees are being felled in the
I identify myself with trees; my family
believed it is verboten (forbidden) to
cut them down. On his birthday, Spatz
asks of guests to bring him a tree. But
not a yellowwood they are overrated.
No wonder then that the gardens at
Delheim are shaded by the lush canopy
of preserved trees some as old as 200
years. It is the most beautiful farm in
the Stellenbosch area, observes Spatz.
He isnt exaggerating.
Spatz full name Michael Sperling

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 47
 spatz sperling
came to South Africa after World War II,
in 1951, as a 20-year-old, to farm De
Drie Sprong, a mixed enterprise which
was later renamed Delheim (Dels home)
after Spatzs aunt, Del Hoheisen, who was
the original owner. There was no work
or labour and Germany was in ruins, he
answers when asked about the move. I
felt like water on the beach that can only
run that far, and no further.
The only limitation to humankind is
our lack of powerful imagination, he
tells me. Spatz wasnt one to be limited;
he has been credited with pioneering
everything from the Stellenbosch Wine
WorldMags
One of Spatzs many devout followers.
His Jack Russel, Nelson.
WorldMags
48 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
Route to cheese platters at tasting rooms.
Of course, Spatz has come a long way
to become the well-known, respected
man that he is. And if ever there was a
man to enjoy his retirement with a fair
amount of pride that comes with having a
successful legacy, then hes it. But even
at his ripe age he is not sitting with his
feet up. His pedantic involvement in farm
VISIT DELHEIM
Delheim is located off the R304
outside Stellenbosch.
Tel 021 888 4600
www.delheim.co.za
Tastings, cellar tours and sales daily
from 09:00 to 17:00.
Hempies du Toit casts a fond,
watchful eye over his father,
Piet. A shared love for wine
and rugby has fostered
close bonds between the two
distinguished characters.
activities, by Veras admission, makes
life tough for the children his son,
Victor, being the viticulturist, and daugh-
ter, Nora, being involved on the market-
ing side of things but his answer to
his wifes observation is just that broad,
disarming Spatz smile.
For a German, with no winemaking
background, it wasnt easy to break into
the tough and, yes, clan-based Afrikaans-
dominated industry, he remembers. But
the name helped, he laughs, sincerely.
Can you imagine people calling me
Mr Sperling? The industry was informal,
he recalls, and by name and personality
he blended right in. His gregarious nature
is perhaps best relayed in stories featured
in Delheims newsletters personally
written by the vintner at a time when
these still arrived with a postage stamp.
From the 1980s emerges this lovely
tale. Spatz, upon returning from the
rst trade show under the equator, in
Kenya, writes to subscribers, relaying a
conversation between vintner and visitor:
Vintner: Red or white, dry or sweet?
Visitor: Sir, I think to start I will choose
something which tastes like Johnny
Walker. (Down went a 1990 Shiraz, Wine
of Origin Stellenbosch.)
Vintner: What would you like to try next?
Visitor: That is very kind of you sir, but
this time Id like to try something like
a Captain Morgan. (A glass of Spatzen-
dreck disappeared over the taste buds of
a highly delighted wine discoverer from
the heart of Africa.)
Spatzendreck of course being
Delheims infamous sweet wine with the
now oft-repeated history:
Entertaining a group of German experts
on a day of sauerkraut and swimming,
Spatz, likely driven by schnapps and
wine-induced bravado, mustered up the
courage to invite the experts, some
Geisenheim graduates among them too,
to a tasting of his latest efforts. It was a
sobering event as the wine was of such
bad quality that one guest observed:
Spatz er is noch dreck! (This wine is
really shitty.)
Initially stunned by the response to
his efforts, Spatz was determined to
 have the experts drink their words. In
1961, he perfected this semi-sweet
wine, but instead of giving it a owery
descriptor, he simply named it Spatzen-
dreck, accompanied by an illustrative
label depicting a little sparrow enno-
bling the contents of the barrel with its
droppings. This label, and wine, resulted
in Delheim winning recognition by
means of local admiration for Spatzs
air, but it also received international
credit, if somewhat of a less attering
nature. In 1970, Decanter magazine
bestowed Spatzendreck with the Worst
Label of the Year Award.
In the 1970s, Spatz, together with
Neil Joubert of Spier and Frans Malan
of Simonsig, were known as the three
angry men with a cause due to their
passionate campaigning for a Stellen-
bosch Wine Route. We were self-made
men, says Spatz, repeating what Vera
told me: You can make wine with
money, but you cant make money from
wine. They started with nothing, but
WorldMags we trusted in the potential of the land.
Finally established in 1972, the
Stellenbosch Wine Route (which would
PICTURED HERE: A young
lead to the founding of numerous Spatz Sperling ltering juice
wine routes in other regions) initially in Delheims cellar.
BELOW: The infamous
comprised only 12 farms, but has
Spatzendreck label.
today grown into South Africas biggest
and most well-frequented. Spatz was
also one of the rst producers to travel SUMPTUOUS EATING
north to the then Transvaal to person-
In 1976, Delheim opened its famous Vintners
ally host wine-tasting evenings. I was
Cheese Lunch Restaurant (renamed Delheim
embarrassed and frightened. People
Garden Restaurant). Situated in a lovely corner of
didnt know who I was, knocking on their
the property, visitors can enjoy delectable, well-
doors like a Jewish entrepreneur. Of
prepared comfort food with views that span from
course, the names Spatz and Delheim
a lush garden all the way to Table Mountain in the
didnt remain unknown for long, and his
distance. Open daily 09:30 to 16:30.
tastings quickly drew numbers.
Hes outlived many of his fellow pio-
neers, he observes, and, as he lowers his abilities, to identify young winemakers
index nger into a shaking st, we talk and make them ourish.
of the present generation of winemakers In closing, not unlike a father gure
many of whom have been groomed by bestowing his blessing, he says, I have
him. He refers to them Josef Krammer, full condence in the future of South
Kevin Arnold, Jeff Grier, Philip Costan- Africas wine industry. The growth and
dius, Chris Keet, Kevin Grant, Martin achievement over the last 20 years has
Meinert and Conrad Vlok as super that these super winemakers came to my been unbelievable.
winemakers. school, as I was never on a wine bench. He ashes that smile.
One of my greatest compliments is But I was able, through my educational Congratulations, he adds.

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 49
ON THE PLATE
chocolate

The
pleasure
principle
There are few things that
are as deliciously decadent
as chocolate and, when
paired with the right wine,
there is nothing that
can compare.

Words by Fiona McDonald

Photographs by Riehan Bakkes
WorldMags

WorldMags
50 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
 he was squirming in her seat.
S Ever so delicately, but squirming
nonetheless. Eyes closed. Head
tilted back. Cheeks and jaw moving as
it melted on her tongue, and more than
just murmuring... she was groaning in
ecstasy. It was vaguely embarrassing
observing it a bit like watching Meg
Ryan fake an orgasm in When Harry
Met Sally...
Other than wanting to tell Sue van
Wyk, Cape Wine Master, to get a room, in
the tradition of American movies, I felt
as though I was intruding on a private
moment of gastro porn! But since she was
sitting opposite and there were another
eight people at the table and a further
120 or so in the room, it was difcult to
give her a moment of privacy.
The occasion was a chocolate and
wine dinner held in the slightly surreal
surrounds of La Fonderie, a former bronze
foundry and now a museum of industry
and labour in Lige, Belgium, close on
a decade ago. Sue van Wyk has never
WorldMags forgotten it and nor have I because of
her rhapsodic reaction.
The thing was, most of those in the
room were also having personal moments
of varying pleasure perhaps not as pub-
licly and quasi-orgasmically as Sue but
there was a denite frisson of excitement
in the room.
It was sublime and probably ranks as
one of the most interesting food and wine
pairing experiences of my career. The
maestro behind it all was Jean Galler, a
master chocolatier and the holder of a
Royal warrant. And if youre the Royal
chocolatier in Belgium that means youre
pretty much the top fairy on the ultimate
Christmas tree with Belgian chocolate
being the ne plus ultra of the world!
In a shallow bowl before the guests was
chocolate soup and with ne efferves-
cent beads lazily rising in a pink hue
alongside, was a ute of Ros Cham-
pagne. A heavenly combination as Sues
response testied. But are chocolate and
wine natural matches?
Its a question which is somewhat
vexatious: proponents of it are avid fans
while detractors pooh-pooh the notion.
WorldMags
One thing is certain its not a one-size-
ts-all proposition. It is essential that the
person doing the matching knows how to
approach it.
... wine went
well with
lamb... but you
cant exactly
make a lamb
chocolate!
TOP: Jean Galler founded his chocolate factory in
1976 in Lige, Belgium, in the back room of his
fathers pastry shop. Today he is Belgiums and it was utterly gross... We nally set-
Royal chocolatier.
ABOVE: Waterfords chocolate and wine pairing was
the rst of its kind in South Africa.
Waterford wine estate on Stellen-
boschs Helderberg was the rst to
attempt this novel pairing. Co-owner and
cellarmaster Kevin Arnold was the prime
mover behind it. The seed of the idea
was planted when I read an article on
a return ight from California in 2002.
It was all about the antioxidant and
health properties of the cocoa bean and
chocolate. It struck a chord since I dont
have much of a sweet tooth and dont
really enjoy desserts but often, after a red
wine tasting, Id nd myself craving just
a little piece of dark chocolate. Within
two days of arriving home, Arnold found
himself at a Constantia cheese festival
and tasting the handmade chocolates of
Richard von Geusau.
The Greyton-based chocolatier took up
the tale. Kevin mentioned this idea to
me and I thought it was rather whacky
but it sparked something in me. Cutting
a long story short, we put our heads
together and tried a whole host of things
before settling on the three options that
Waterford currently offers.
The rst successful wine and choco-
late pairing was kicked off by the epony-
mous Kevin Arnold Shiraz. This was a
while before the whole mocha/chocolate
thing became trendy and my Shiraz was
one of the few that people described as
having that coffee-chocolate avour,
Arnold said.
I like wine but nd I dont have the
vocabulary for it, Von Geusau said,
and that was where Kevin was so good.
He was able to describe the qualities
and characteristics of the wine which
I then used as a guide in formulating
the chocolate.
Masala chai spices in dark chocolate
and the Kevin Arnold Shiraz became
the rst t, followed by the Waterford
Cabernet Sauvignon and rock salt again
with dark chocolate. Kevins advice
on the wine was that it went well with
lamb... but you cant exactly make a lamb
chocolate! With that savoury prole in
mind I tried adding salt to the chocolate
tled on sprinkling a few rock-salt crystals
on top of each block which worked, Von
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 51
 chocolate

Geusau recalled. And not just any salt
either... We obviously tried Maldon salt
akes initially but they just melted. So we
reverted to the local Khoisan salt from the
West Coast.
The nal match was the pairing of Wa-
terfords natural sweet dessert wine with a
The second winery that has
RULES OF
successfully gone the chocolate-pairing
route is Creation Wines in Walker Bays
THE GAME
Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge. Carolyn Martin 1. High-quality chocolate for high-
says theyre not trying to follow anyones quality wines.
lead since their focus has always been on 2. The higher the cocoa content,
food and wine pairing and getting people the drier the wine may be.

rose geranium avoured milk chocolate.
Purists are of the opinion that wine and
chocolate are not natural bedfellows, cit-
ing the clash between acidity and tannin
on wine with the creaminess and subtle
avour nuances of chocolate. Arnold
disputes this: I tell our tasting staff to
to appreciate avour in all forms.
We actually started at the behest
of the Arabella Western Cape Hotel in
Kleinmond. They approached us with the
idea, looking for something special for
their guests and its been a success. We
thought about it for a long time because
3. Bittersweet or semi-sweet
chocolate works best with
red wine.
4. The higher the tannin content
of a red wine, the stronger the
chocolate should be.
5. Wine first on the tongue and
then the chocolate.

stand back and listen to the response
that people have. It breaks down barriers
because people all taste different things
and are happy to talk about what sort of
reaction theyre having to the chocolate
and to the wine. That gets them thinking
about the nature of avour and also gets
them to appreciate that what one person
likes in a wine isnt necessarily what they
will nd.
we didnt want to be perceived as copy-
catting. We embarked on a lengthy proc-
ess with one chocolatier and went quite
far down the road when they decided
to pull out I think because of the dirt
road leading to our winery... Martin
quipped. Ultimately they settled on
their clat du chocolat pairing in which
they use chocolate to highlight avour
in three of their wines the Syrah/
(Source: De Torens website April 2007
newsletter. De Toren wine estate used to
offer Lago chocolate and wine pairings, but
sadly this is no longer on offer.)
Grenache blend, Viognier and Merlot.
Dubbed the Charisma, Passion and
Resonance clat du chocolat experience,
Martin explained that the chocolates are
purely of African origin. Theyre made

WorldMags DID YOU KNOW?

Three-quarters of the worlds cacao beans are produced in
Africa mainly West Africa. The Ivory Coast is the largest
producer and has been linked to unsavoury
child-labour practices.

The oldest evidence of cacao was discovered in Puerto

Escondido, Honduras, by archaeologists in 2007. It was
dated back to 1100 to 1400 BCE.

The presence of theobromine in chocolate makes it toxic

for certain animals especially cats and dogs.

Chocolate is considered a superfood because of its

antioxidant quality and its role in promoting good health
when used in moderation.

American companies Hersheys and Mars produce choco-

late sold for $13 billion annually yet Europe still accounts
for 45% of all the global revenue for chocolate.

According to Wikipedia, in April 2007 the BBC reported

Creation offers a pairing of
chocolate, specically created
to suit the estates wines.
that a study found that brain activity and heart rate
increased after melting chocolate in the mouth, at an inten-
sity greater than that produced by passionate kissing and
that the effect lasted four times longer... (and men wonder
why chocolate is a womans best friend!).

WorldMags
52 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
 using couverture from Chocolate by
Tomes, the only chocolate actually
made in South Africa using cacao beans
sourced from Africa. Most other choco-
latiers source prepared chocolate from
Belgium and France for their products.
Richard Tomes, the producer, said the
only thing he imported for his chocolate
was full-cream milk powder; everything
else was sourced locally. We make our
own chocolate from scratch using beans
from the Ivory Coast and Ghana and sugar
from South Africa. There are other African
sources of cacao beans but the regularity
of supply can be problematic, he said,
referring to Cameroon and Madagascar.
His chocolate features both in Creation
and Lourensfords chocolate and wine
pairing. Their tastings differ according
to what they want to highlight in their
respective wines.
You wont nd that these chocolates
will suit anything other than Creations
Viognier, Merlot and Syrah/Grenache be-
cause we have worked to pair those wines
WorldMags specically, Martin reiterated.
Evidence of the lengths Creation goes
to in their pairings is displayed in analys-
ing the Passion chocolate. Its two-thirds
60% cacao from Callebaut, a combo of
Criolla, Forestero and Trinaterio beans
from Ghana and the Ivory Coast, with
the rest 67% cacao from Madagascar.
Its about the fragrance and matching
the Viogniers creaminess. The different
beans and origins give us lovely chocolate
avours with bright blueberry and citrus
notes with natural bourbon vanilla
echoing the wines creaminess.
The Resonance chocolate is 72%
chocolate by Tomes from the Ivory
Coast and Ghana and is true to the full
chocolaty, berry and nutty avours of
the couverture and the wine. Charisma
contains freeze-dried raspberries (sourced
from New Zealand!) and pink peppercorns
highlighting the berry and spice elements
of the Syrah/Grenache.
We used clat rather than a bar as it
is created like thin sheets of bark. It is
very light and when placed on the tongue
melts immediately so you get both the
taste sensations as well as the aromas
WorldMags
WHERE TO TRY IT
Chocolate and wine pairings:
WATERFORD ESTATE, Stellenbosch
R40 for three wines and
three chocolates.
Tel 021 880 0496
www.waterfordestate.co.za
CREATION WINES, Hermanus
R80 a head, usually only for
pre-booked groups.
Tel 028 212 1107
www.creationwines.com
BILTON WINES, Stellenbosch
R50 for three chocolates and wines.
Tel 021 881 3714
www.biltonwines.com
LOURENSFORD, Somerset West
R30 for three wines and chocolate.
Tel 021 847 2333
www.lourensford.com
LA CHOCOLATERIE ROCOCO,
Oudtshoorn
R80 for a two-hour chocolate and
wine show at the Klein Karoo
Nasionale Kunstefees in April.
Pairings also by arrangement.
Tel 084 232 5991
www.ilovechocolate.co.za
ASARA, Stellenbosch
Although a chocolate and wine
pairing is not available, guests can
taste four chocolates for R25 at the
deli and then move on to the tasting
room where a tasting of five wines
will cost R30.
Tel 021 888 8000
www.asara.co.za
Non-wine
chocolate-tasting options:
LINDT CHOCOLATE STUDIO,
De Waterkant, Cape Town
Tel 021 421 3107
www.chocolatestudio.co.za
LINDT CHOCOLATE STUDIO,
Fourways, Johannesburg
Tel 011 467 5730
www.chocolatestudio.co.za
GELDHOF CHOCOLATES,
Various branches around Joburg
www.geldhofchocolates.co.za
ARRIBA CHOCOLATES,
Stamfordhill, Durban
Tel 031 312 4059
www.arribachocolates.co.za
sweeping through, allowing you to breathe
them in at the same time. You get im-
mediate full avours as opposed to almost
having to chew on the chocolate.
Martin and Creations take echoes that
of Belgian maestro, M Galler. Hes on
record as saying that his passion for wine
comes second to his passion for chocolate
and he is a keen devotee of pairing his
loves. I tried lots of things and each
wine has its own particular attributes,
depending on whether its fruity or less
so; whether theres any acidity or bitter-
ness present.
His advice is to choose a chocolate that
either complements (the wine) or else to
layer the avours. For example, we have
walnuts in our La Fort praline. A wine
such as Lorosso (white) has lots of wal-
nutty hints and so if I combine the two,
we get layers of avour. Or else, I might
for example contrast the liveliness of
a sparkling wine with the soft smoothness
of a white or praline chocolate.
Another of Gallers favoured matches is
a Cte du Rhne village with a ginger-
bread praline...
Galler (www.galler.com) has a broad
range of chocolates but offers one unique
gift a box set containing a 375ml bottle
of Maury Pouderoux (a sweet fortied
red from the Roussillon area of France,
predominantly Grenache Noir), along
with three miniature bottles of natural
sweet wines and 500g of specially se-
lected, handcrafted pralines with a leaet
explaining the association between the
chocolate and the wines.
Biltons experience came about by
chance. Marketing manager Margie Hoffe
explains that Bilton couldnt get into the
V&A Waterfront festivals main tent but
could get into the gourmet tent. But we
had to have something foodie to offer
so we settled on chocolate, and it was
a hit!
Aida chocolates of Tokai makes up the
product for matching with the winerys
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz
a mocha/chocolate-avoured one for
the rst, one which highlights cherry and
blackcurrant avour for the second and
very mild chilli for the last wine.
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 53
 chocolate

HOW TO MAKE CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES AT HOME

CARAMEL TRUFFLE

INGREDIENTS
400g (400ml) cream (35% fat)
200g (200ml) milk
150g (100ml) glucose syrup
1.2kg extra au lait couverture 37%
300g (375ml) sugar (dry caramel)

Heat the cream, glucose and

milk. Set aside. Form a dry cara- 1 2
mel by gradually heating the sugar
in a pan. Once caramelised, add
the cream slowly. (The mixture
will bubble.) Allow to cool to
85C. Pour the caramel-cream
mixture over the couverture and
mix well. Allow to cool to piping
consistency, pipe into log shapes.
Allow to set, cut, dry and then
coat in tempered couverture and
toss in couverture flakes.
Serve with Meerendals Chenin
3 4
Blanc Natural Sweet 2006

WorldMags
Lourensford emphasises the African THE HISTORY OF CHOCOLATE
origins of their Chocolates by Tomes as
already highlighted which also includes Archaeological evidence shows that chocolate has been

nougat as part of the pairing with Shiraz/ enjoyed since around 1400 BCE, both as a drink, alcoholic

Mourvdre/Grenache, Merlot and a Semil- and non-alcoholic, and as an element of ceremonial rituals.

lon noble late harvest. The latter match Its native to Central and South America and Mexico and

takes the form of a dark chocolate-dipped its use has been documented and detailed in numerous

segment of preserved orange. hieroglyphs found on temples in these regions.

A word of caution: Waterfords Arnold, The Mayans enjoyed it as an essentially bitter drink

Creations Martin, Richard Tomes and while other civilisations such as the Aztecs used the beans

Richard von Geusau all counsel against as a form of currency for bartering. It was unknown in

simply taking chocolate off the shelf and the New World until the Spanish conquistadors returned from the Americas

trying it at home with any wine. Theres with xocoatl and it took a hundred years to become popular throughout Europe,

nothing wrong with experimentation by often flavoured with vanilla or even chilli. It was essentially a luxury item and its

all means try it but the pairings have cultivation by the Spaniards in plantations in the Americas played a massive role

been skilfully worked out to suit specic in the enslavement of Africans who worked them.

wines. Arnold and Von Geusau both made London was the venue for the first chocolate house and in England, anyone

the point separately that the chocolate who could afford it, could enjoy it. The original milky

changes with each vintage. Each wines chocolate drink developed by physician Hans Sloan in

avour and make-up changes with every Jamaica was sold to the Cadbury brothers in 1897.

vintage depending on the weather and The first-ever bar of chocolate was produced in 1847

growing conditions, so the chocolates when Joseph Fry & Son experimented with adding sugar

have to be tweaked slightly to accommo- and mixing cocoa butter into chocolate, creating a solid

date those changes in acidity, tannin and form. But it was the industrial revolution in the 18th and

avour, was Arnolds parting shot. 19th centuries which brought about mass production.

WorldMags
54 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
IN THE GLASS
bedroom secrets

Bedroom

WorldMags
secrets

This unusually located cellar, beneath Richard and Anines

Observatory home, is as practical as it is fun. But its
construction was not without difculties.

WorldMags
56 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
 C O U V E RT U R E
Couverture is high-quality choco
late
used by professional chefs becau
se
it has a high cocoa concentrati
on. It
is available at most good delis.

All recipes supplied by Lindt Chocolate Studio and presented by Dimo Simatos. For more information on the
various chocolate-making courses Lindt offers, visit www.chocolatestudio.co.za.

ARTISAN CHOCOLATE 4
TRUFFLE

INGREDIENTS
370g (375ml) cream (35% fat)
40g (30ml) glucose syrup
550g Surfin couverture 49%

Bring the cream and glucose to the

boil before allowing to cool to 85C.
Mix from the centre to form a core
until a smooth, shiny ganache forms.
Pour into a shallow container and
allow to set at room temperature.
Once at a soft butter-like consistency,
1
agitate the ganache then spoon into
portions. Allow to crystallise and dry.
Coat twice in tempered couverture
and then roll in cocoa powder.
Serve with De Toren Fusion V 2004

WorldMags

ON THE WEB
For additional recipes, a video on
how to make chocolate truffles and
more tips, go to
www.winemag.co.za.

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 55

When space was an issue, this Cape Town couple decided to build a cellar
WorldMags beneath their house, but flooding nearly put an end to their dream.
Words by Karen Glaneld
ichard and Anine Voller have
R resided in their quaint Observatory
home for 10 years, complete with
original wooden oors, marble replaces
and ornate, decorative ceilings. Like many
cosy cottages in the older parts of Cape
Town, space is an issue, but they certainly
havent allowed the structural limitations
of their home to curb their enjoyment of
the space. Most recently they renovated
their attic and created an open-plan home
ofce complete with 360-degree views of
Table Mountain and the harbour.
Five years ago they went the other
way under the house that is. While they
work as an accountant and town planner
respectively, they have always had an
interest in wine which spurred them to
design and build their own cellar under
their bedroom of all places. We started
building a collection of wine which was
not well stored and so decided we needed
a cellar. We were digging a pool at the
time and realised that under the house
WorldMags
Photographs by Toby Murphy
was the only space available that made
practical sense, says Anine.
The work on the cellar started in 2004
when they cut the trapdoor and began to
dig out the soil. A large space under-
ground had been made and the brick
walls were being built when the winter
rains started with resultant ooding that
threatened to put an end to their wine
cellar dreams. Being at the base of Table
Mountain, the water literally drains off un-
der their home. It took a year for them to
build the correct natural drainage system
from under the foundation of their house
which links up to the stormwater drain
outside, and dry out the cellar enough
to begin the project again. They had
anticipated a slightly larger space, com-
plete with table and chairs for tastings,
than what they ended up with, but due
to limitations on the depth to which they
could dig before reaching the water table,
one cannot stand up straight in the cellar.
However, it is 25 square metres in size
Although one cannot stand up straight in this
small cellar, it provides the perfect space to
store a sizeable wine collection.
and can store well over 1 000 bottles of
wine, so its end result has been success-
ful indeed. We now get to store decent
wines that require ageing, and its a cool
party trick to pop open the trap door as
well, comments Richard.
The couple used the services of We3
Construction to help with the building of
the cellar and, although they designed
it themselves, they heeded professional
advice in terms of support beams and
walls which they needed to work around.
Being underground, it is damp enough not
to require a humidier and they thought it
may stay cool enough not to need an air-
conditioning unit either. But, after losing
a couple of cases to oxidation in their rst
year, they installed a 12BTU Thermal Unit
and now maintain the temperature at a
consistent 19C.
Richard and Anine both agree that their
cellar would be remarkably easy, and
relatively cost-effective for a lot of people
to replicate. The only major requirement
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 57
 bedroom secrets

RICHARD AND
ANINES TOP TIPS:
Meerlust Rubicon 2001 Just do it! The contents and
and Drappier Milleslime systems can be altered at a later
Grand Cru 2000 are
prized bottles in the stage but get the cellar going.
Voller collection. Ensure you obtain the proper
advice about support structures and
foundations of your home so that
these are not compromised in the
building of your cellar.
Patience. Make sure you buy wines
to drink now as well as ones to store.
Quaffing wine need not be cellared
and can thus be kept in easy access
and enjoyed immediately. Learn to
recognise the difference in wines
that require ageing. Buy several
bottles of each wine so that you can
taste over a period of time to see
how the wines develop but ensure
you keep the wines until they reach
their best potential.

WorldMags their cellar with are largely international

ones, Chteau Mouton Rothschild
is that your house has elevated ooring pre-planning their itinerary and visiting being the rst words to race out of
or a large foundation. There needs to be about three estates. They prefer to buy Richards mouth. They would love the
at least a metre of space between the six or 12 bottles at a time depending on opportunity to be exposed to more inter-
natural ground and the oor level. If not, the possible ageability of the wine and national tastings with specic interest in
the excavation costs can be large and you make a note of ageing potential in their learning more about Bordeaux, California,
also need to take care not to undermine catalogue when they place the wine in Burgundy and New Zealand wines. We
the foundation or create an impact on the cellar, removing one or two bottles a are not wine snobs and dont belong to
any of the houses support structures. For month at optimum age accordingly. any wine clubs, which means we often
shelving they have made use of simple The couples favourites in their feel intimidated when faced with
plastic milk crates which they place cellar at the moment are Tattinger, Dom international wines, says Anine.
on their sides and they bought perspex Perignon 1999 (which Anine received as There are still umpteen opportunities
which, when inserted into the crates, a gift and they will be enjoying with the to change certain aspects of their cellar.
creates the cross-shelf system along the gift-givers later this year), Cloof Crucible Recently, they added over 40 bottles of
walls. They have also placed straw-type Shiraz, the Ernie Els Bordeaux blend, special whisky to their cellar stock. We
mats on the walled areas to keep the Meerlust Rubicon 2001 and Hamilton are hoping the out-of-sight-out-of-mind
sealed boxes raised off the moisture of Russel Pinot Noir. Newton Johnson idea will work here, jokes Richard.
the concrete. Pinot Noir 2006 is drinking beautifully Their current plans are to build their Cap
With all this space available, Richard at the moment and De Grendel Koetshius Classique and Champagne collections
and Anine now treat themselves to at will always be a favourite, says Richard. as well as Pinot Noir. Richard is in the
least one trip a month into the winelands, The wines they would most like to ll process of collecting the estate-branded
metal caps from bubbly bottles with the
intention of placing them side by side
FOR MORE TIPS across the entire oor of the cellar with
Look out for upcoming issues of Wine to learn more about unusal storage solutions a resin over for further interest, intrigue
and how to make the most of a small cellar, or go to and enjoyment of the space.
www.winemag.co.za for tips on how to store your precious collection.

WorldMags
58 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
 WIN

READER COMPETITION
WIN AN OVERNIGHT STAY FOR TWO, INCLUDING A WINE
TASTING WITH ACCLAIMED SOMMELIER MIGUEL CHAN, AT
THE PALAZZO, MONTECASINO WORTH R8 000

WorldMags

When you step inside The Palazzo Montecasino you will be awed by the opulent dcor and attention to
detail that will make your stay an experience to remember.

The hotel, set among award-winning landscaped gardens with cascading water features and spectacular
views, provides a tranquil haven for all guests.

Dining is a true experience in the Medeo Restaurant, serving contemporary international dishes in executive chef Arnold
Stuurmans signature style. The terrace offers outdoor dining with magnificent views of the gardens.
Caf Rialto coffee lounge and bar serves daily high tea and an extensive bar list including wines by the glass.

For relaxation, spend time around the swimming pool and enjoy a Thai therapy massage.

THE WINNER CAN LOOK FORWARD TO THE FOLLOWING:

A one-night stay for two people in a deluxe room
Thai therapy treatment at the pool
A one-on-one tutored wine tasting prior to dinner with acclaimed sommelier Miguel Chan
Dinner in Medeo Restaurant with wines paired with each course
In-room breakfast on a private patio with a bottle of Cap Classique
A mixed case of sommelier selction wines

TO ENTER, AND STAND A CHANCE TO WIN, SMS PALAZZO AND YOUR NAME TO 35172 (R3/sms)

Entry is open to anyone except employees (and their immediate families) of RamsayMedia, Southern Sun and associated agencies. The competition closes 21 April 2011.
Prize winner will be contacted telephonically. Only SA residents will be included in the draw. The prize is not exchangeable for cash, is non transferable and the judges
decision is nal. Transport to and from the venue is for the account of the winner. Extras such as beverages, transfers, telephone and laundry, as well as any other
additional expenses will be for your own account. The prize is valid until 31st October 2011 and the booking is subject to availability. Wine magazine reserves the right to

WorldMags change the details of the competitions due to unforeseen circumstances.

AROUND THE TABLE
platter
broughton
michaelerica
Cooking at home with
Erica
Platter
Erica Platter is staging a personal revolution that sees
the triumph of local, seasonal produce.
Words by Tracy Gielink
WorldMags
nly half-jokingly, Erica Platter
O describes herself as militant in
her mission to convert people to
using local, seasonal and fresh produce.
Her weapon of choice? East Coast Tables,
her cookbook documenting the people
and produce on KwaZulu-Natals coast.
No stranger to publishing, she and
husband John put their name to the
Platters South African Wine Guide 31
years ago. They moved to Durbans North
Coast after selling the guide 11 years
back and their house is nestled on a
sprawling estate near Shakas Rock, half
of which was originally the sugar farm
that Erica grew up on. Their bright, tropi-
cal and decidedly contemporary African
home offers a sensory coastal experience.
Stacking doors reveal a wooden deck
that runs parallel to the living areas and
you can hear, smell and see the glorious
Indian Ocean.
Aromas emanating from the kitchen
are reminiscent of the heady spices that
envelop you when walking into an Indian
spice shop. A large plastic carrier bag
WorldMags
60 Winemag.co.za
Photographs by Christopher Laurenz
is lled with various local herbs and
Erica can barely contain her excitement
in showing off a jug lled with freshly
plucked ginger plants whose beautiful
pink-tinged roots bear no resemblance to
Wine is about
food, family,
friends and fun...
dont take it
too seriously!
the brown, dried-out specimens found in
most shops. She grates and freezes this
local ginger in ice-cube trays to ensure a
perennial supply.
I am mad about local ingredients. I
think we tend to source too many of our
things from far away. Here on our KZN
coast we have the most fabulous sh
and wonderful subtropical fruit and veg.
Really, we dont need to get green beans
from Kenya or salmon from Norway. I am
almost militant I am on an absolute
mission to try to see whether I can
convince more people to be prouder of
our local produce and the different ways
that the various communities here use
it and the fantastic food that we have,
she says. If possible, I source from the
KZN coast or greater KZN, then South
Africa and then the rest of the world. I
wont use Himalayan rock salt whats
wrong with Khoisan rock salt from the
West Coast?
Her obsession and the motivation
behind East Coast Tables is two-fold: to
encourage people to celebrate seasonal
produce and to source it as close to home
as possible. Erica has chosen to start with
an iced cucumber espresso that proves
her point. The mother recipe, from her
book, is for an iced avocado espresso,
but the local season had just ended so,
WorldMags

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 61
 erica platter

choosing to ignore the convenience of
season-oblivious supermarkets, she sub-
stitutes with cucumber from friend Cindy
Valayadams farm a few kilometres away.
The most important thing about good
food is sourcing and shopping well. If you
are clever at buying or growing then
you dont have any excuse not to produce
a good meal. It is more important than
knowing how to make a beurre blanc!
I dont plan a menu until I see whats
available, in season. Local means not
only the usual suspects but things like
Midlands beef or boletus mushrooms.
Ericas love affair with aromatic,
bright food continues unabated (she
cites the Indian Delights cookbook, its
editor Zuleikha Mayat, and her longtime
friend Cindy Valayadam as her
biggest inspirations) and her main
course consists of a sh curry with a hot
Tamil paste served with kedgeree rice.
Often when were having a party Ill
make bean curry and kedgeree rice and
Ill ask Cindy to make her famous prawn
or baby brinjal and double beans curry.
You dont have to cook everything.
I think its ingenious to buy food that
people can cook better than yourself!
I would never make the masala for my
curried beans from scratch; I always use
Cindys curry powder.
In celebrating the spicy, warm and
intense avours of the East Coast, Ericas
book even has guidelines from husband
John on wine and food pairing in a
warm climate. Adamant that sparkling
wine is a good match to spicy food, she
says: I think Johan Malan [of Simonsig]
might secretly be from KwaZulu-Natal
because he makes the most terric wines
to suit our climate! But I also like to
drink Graham Beck because [winemaker]
Peter Ferreira is from Durban.
Instead of pairing a wine with each
dish, Erica has selected four that work
with both courses. Simonsig is represent-
ed with its Kaapse Vonkel and Chenin
Blanc, while Cloofs Very Vivacious
Viognier and John Platters own label
Chardonnay make up the remainder of
the contingent.
As with most other things, Erica has
some very strong views and shes only

ICED CUCUMBER
ESPRESSO
SERVES SIX

Serve in small coffee cups or

shooter glasses with coffee spoons.

WorldMags
Pick your own herbs: dhania, cher-
vil and tarragon work best, but if
the basils fresher, go for it. Adjust
the liquid according to size of the
cucumber. Aim for the consistency
of a very thick soup. Play the timing
by ear as it depends on the ferocity
of your freezer, the temperature
outside, etc.

flesh of one large cucumber

onion, chopped
1 cup chicken stock
1 T sweet chilli sauce
1 T lemon or lime juice
cup milk
handful fresh herbs
1 t salt
black pepper

Whizz all the ingredients in

a blender until smooth. Adjust
seasoning. Pour into little coffee
cups. Freeze. Remove from the
freezer 20 minutes before serving to
allow the ice to melt a little. Dont
let it defrost altogether. Pop back
into the freezer for a few minutes if
this happens.

CHEFS NOTE: You can substitute the Served in beautiful espresso cups, the
cucumber with one large ripe avo. iced cucumber soup is made from local,
seasonal ingredients.

WorldMags
62 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
 too delighted to be asked why her glass
of Chenin Blanc is lled with a generous
handful of ice (and water!). Id prefer
not to drink wine with a high alcohol.
Dave Hughes goes overseas every year
and does experiments for the trade. He
recently did tastings of high-alcohol
wines with a whole lot of wine masters.
Each time, he put a bit of water into
one of the wines. And in every single
case that was the wine which scored
the highest points! I rest my case...
Although I do go a bit further and add
ice too, because were so hot in KZN.
And because I like it that way! If a wine
has enough personality and intensity,
the avour still comes through.

NO KITCHEN SHOULD BE WITHOUT...

Cooking essentials: Ericas kitchen essentials:

)UHVKJLQJHUDQGJDUOLF
Global chefs knife
)UHVKOHPRQVDQGOLPHV
WorldMags 7DPDULQGSDVWH
Coffee machine (Saeco)
&KLOOLHV
)UHVKKHUEV Food processor
0XVWDUGRLO
3DFNR&KLOOL%LWH0L[ Handheld wooden juicer

TOP: Erica's kitchen is decorated with son

Cameron's art. LEFT AND ABOVE: Fresh herbs
and spices are always to be found in the pantry
cupboards and reect Erica's passion for bright,
aromatic, Eastern cuisine.

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 63

WorldMags
ON THE WEB
For a video of Erica talking about
her thoughts on wine, go to
www.winemag.co.za.
The only people who seem to be
offended are not winemakers but people
who take wine more seriously than I do.
I wrote a wine column called Grapes of
Froth for Wine years ago, and once said
that I put ice in a Klein Constantia Sau-
vignon Blanc the one that won awards
and was fted all over the world as it
was too powerful for me. The next day
Ross Gower dropped off a case of still
water and said it was for me to have with
all his wines, she laughs.
Finding it impossible to keep her
passion in check, Erica already has ideas
for another cookbook which, unsurpris-
ingly, will continue the foodie struggle to
put East Coast avours on tables nation-
ally. In the meantime, shes raising an
ice-lled glass of crisp white to all things
local. Wine is about food, family, friends
and fun... dont take it too seriously!
WorldMags
64 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
FISH CURRY WITH HOT TAMIL SAUCE
SERVES SIX
1 cup red masala marinade
1kg fresh fish (couta, dorado,
yellowtail)
3 T oil
1 t methi seeds (fenugreek)
1 t mustard seeds
1 T crushed garlic
1 t cumin seeds
3 large tomatoes (grated or blended)
3 t chillies
2 sprigs curry leaves
1 large onion
1 t turmeric
1 t dhania/jeera powder
salt
cup tamarind juice (make by steep-
ing 250g tamarind in hot water for 15
mins, then squeezing and sieving)
1 cups water
Clean, slice (into individual portions),
wash and pat-dry the fish. Make
the red masala to recipe below. Cut
slashes in fish, smear with the masala,
reserving about one tablespoon of
paste. Marinate in fridge for at least
one hour. Braise the onions, methi,
mustard seeds, garlic and cumin
in oil. When the onions soften and
become transparent, add the tomatoes.
Lower the heat and stir to blend the
tomatoes smoothly. Now add the
chillies, turmeric, curry leaves, dhania/
jeera and salt to taste. Braise for a
minute. Add tamarind juice and water.
Simmer slowly, allowing the spices to
saturate the curry. Lastly, lower the
masala-smeared fish slices into this
gravy. Simmer slowly over a low heat
until the fish is cooked and has turned
opaque. Serve with hot rice.
This recipe was donated to Erica by
the members of The Womens Cultural
Group, whose seminal Indian Delights
cookbook has sold 400 000 copies.
RED MASALA
1 T dhania seeds
6 or 7 cloves garlic
6 red (or green) chillies
1 T cumin
1 T grated coconut (optional)
1 t turmeric
1 t salt
juice of 1 lemon
1 T oil
Pound (or blitz in blender) the dha-
nia, chillies, garlic, cumin, coconut
and coriander seeds. Add salt and
turmeric. Mix into a paste with oil
and lemon juice.
KEDGEREE RICE
A colonial adaptation of khitchri, an
Indian peasant dish.
4 T sunflower oil
3 onions, sliced (2 white, 1 red)
1 T ginger, grated
1 T garlic, grated
seeds of 8 cardamom pods
2 red chillies (dry or fresh)
1 stick cinnamon
6 cloves
1 t cumin seeds
1 cup green (or giant) lentils
2 cups Basmati rice
salt
4 cups water
t turmeric
12 curry leaves
1 t fennel seeds
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 T fresh coconut, slivered
(or desiccated)
1 cup flaked smoked dorado (or Natal
or Cape snoek)
Fry onions in half the oil with the
ginger, garlic, cardamom, chillies,
cinnamon, cloves and cumin seeds.
Cover the pot at first, for a few minutes,
to make onions sweat and soften. Then
uncover, and cook over a low heat until
the onions begin to turn golden. Dont
allow them to go brown. Remove the
mixture from pot. Set aside. In the
same pot, briefly turn the lentils and
rice in one tablespoon of oil before add-
ing turmeric, water and curry leaves.
Add salt to taste and bring to the boil.
Cover and lower heat. Cook until the
rice and lentils are tender but not soggy
(15 to 20 minutes). Remove the cinna-
mon stick. Using the last tablespoon
of oil, fry the fennel seeds, crushed
garlic and coconut for one minute.
Watch carefully as coconut burns
easily. Add the reserved onion mixture
to the pan and continue to fry it for
one to two minutes, before folding the
mixture into the rice and lentils. Fork in
the smoked fish. (If you are not going to
serve immediately, cover, set aside and
heat up later in oven or microwave. But
add the smoked fish only after heating,
just before taking to the table.
FOR MORE
All recipes from East Coast Tables,
by Erica Platter, Clinton Friedman
and Gwyn Platter, published by East
Coast Radio, available at Exclusive
Books for R291.
 HDVHLQWRDXWXPQ
ZLWKDYRQWXXUHVWDWH

DARLING R12 750 000

Enjoy the last warm days of the season with us this April.
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Avontuur Estate is on the R44 between Stellenbosch and Somerset West
info@avontuurestate.co.za www.avontuurestate.co.za Rentals For many more properties, visit Agricultural
[022] 487 3905 www.seeff.com [022] 487 3905 Offcial Voyager Estate Agent Partner

WorldMags
Wine Cellars Email: bee@windfallwine.co.za www.windfallwine.co.za

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We'd like to extend an exclusive invitation to you to join the

Windfall family. By joining us, you'll receive 2 bottles of each
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wine cooler, a corkscrew and 2 glasses for R500.00 excl. VAT.

We currently produce a Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon

and an award-winning Shiraz. By joining the family, you're
reserving a case of each varietal for the following year.

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WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 65
ON THE PLATE
matchmaking
High society
Classic techniques underpin Stefan Marais
cooking philosophy in preparing moreish dishes that
beg to be devoured.
Words by Emma Odendaal
n the heat of Cape Towns city bowl, the
I doors of Societi Bistro spill out onto a
sun-lled patio while, inside, tables
surround replaces and exposed stone
walls that hark back to the 1860s. Chef
Stefan Marais wryly recalls how, nearly
three years ago, he and the restaurant team
worked 20-hour days to restore the house
to its former glory, taking turns sleeping in
the back ofce.
Theres something comforting about
knowing that such is a chefs passion,
chipping away at plaster for hours a day.
Yet, Stefan ended up working with food
WorldMags quite by accident, having planned a career
in nance. Thankfully, a gap year landed
him in the kitchen of the Hotel Riviera in
Sidmouth, Devon, and the bug bit. After
cooking apprenticeships in the UK, he
high-tailed back to SA where he worked
at The Table Bay and the Mount Nelson,
before nding his home at Societi Bistro.
BEEF BRISKET BORDELAISE
1.5kg beef brisket (off the bone cut
into six pieces)
1 bottle good, hearty red wine
1 each: carrot, onion, celery stalk, all
diced
5 garlic cloves, crushed
1 bouquet garni
1kg beef marrowbones
roughly 100g our seasoned with salt
and pepper
50g butter
Marinate the brisket in the wine
with the veggies, garlic and bouquet
garni overnight. The next day,
remove the meat from the wine and
strain off the vegetables. Retain both
WorldMags
66 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
Photographs by Julian Goldswain
Simple, moreish food is the crux behind
his cooking philosophy. Seasonality and
provenance are words Stefan frequently
mentions in our interview, explaining how
he goes out of his way to source local fresh
produce, constantly asking, Where does
this food come from?
Its important for consumers to be asking
this same question he insists. Its scary
how many suppliers actually cant tell you
where, for instance, their meat comes
from. Im looking to get more answers. And
Im hoping that this will encourage more
people to do the same.
(SERVES 6)
the vegetables and the wine. Dust
the brisket in seasoned our. Heat the
butter in a pan and brown the meat
on all sides. Place the brisket in a deep
braising dish. Saut the veggies
for two minutes in the same pan and
add to the brisket. Add the reserved
wine to the pan and bring to a boil.
Pour the mixture into the braising dish
through a sieve and cover the meat
with water (so that it is just covered
in liquid, but not swimming!). Place a
lid on the dish, or cover with foil. Cook
in the oven at 150C for four to ve
hours. While this is cooking, place
the marrowbones into cold water for
half-an-hour. Using your nger, push
the marrow out from the one end.
Fo r TA S T I N G N OT E S
on the Thelema 2008
and other Cabernet
Sauvignons, turn to
page 70.
Stefan is an advocate of nose-to-tail
cooking and eating using the whole
animal and allowing nothing to go to waste
but this is an exception rather than the
norm in South African kitchens. Neverthe-
less, he likes to cook with less commonly
used cuts of meat, such as beef brisket,
a cut from the breast or lower chest of
the animal. Its this that he pairs with the
Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon 2008.
It can be a little bit tough, but cooked
with time, love and care, its avour is hard
to beat. Its richness complements the
wines full mouthfeel while the marrow
mellows the tannic structure. This is a
real food wine that wants a rich, wintery
dish, says Stefan. The pea and mint cro-
quettes echo the hint of mint in the wine.
Together with using cheaper cuts of
meat, great bistro cooking boils down to
good techniques and good sauces,
says Stefan.
Poach in boiling, salted water for two
minutes and refresh in ice water. Slice
into discs and reserve in the fridge.
Remove the brisket from the oven
and check that it is soft and almost
falling apart. Rest the brisket in its
cooking liquid for at least half-an-hour.
Then strain the liquid into another pan
and gradually heat it on a stovetop,
reducing the liquid by half. Once
reduced, turn down the heat to a
gentle simmer, add the meat to the
sauce and warm through. When
you are ready to serve, add the bone
marrow discs into the sauce and allow
to rest for two minutes. Serve with
pea and mint croquettes and buttery
mashed potatoes.
 PREPARED BY
Stefan Marais

of
SOCIETI BISTRO
50 Orange Street, Cape Town

TEL: 021 424 2100

www.societi.co.za

WorldMags

ON THE WEB
For the pea and mint croquettes
recipe go to
www.winemag.co.za.

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 67
ON THE PLATE
home-made
Alcoholic anony-mouse
Boozing cellar rats have discovered that the secret to a
long, healthy life is in Cabernet Sauvignon.
Words by Anna Trapido
have a sandstone and broekie-lace
I holiday house in the Eastern Free
State. Peonies burst forth in the
garden, wisteria climbs the walls and the
Maluti mountains rise high and glorious
on the horizon. Best of all, it has a deep,
dark, deliciously cool cellar.
Imagine my distress when I returned
to paradise after a months absence to
nd that rats had taken up residence in
the subterranean store. And that they
had been drinking the wine therein! Their
main modus operandi has been to gnaw
WorldMags away at as much of the cork as they can
reach and then to push the remainder
inside the bottle. Even more extraordinary
is that they have also been laying siege to
the screw caps their tough little teeth
have pierced the metal and in so doing
caused unutterable amounts of damage,
mess and expense.
I have put down the most potent collec-
tion of poisons known to man (or at least
to the pest-control section of the Bethle-
hem Mica Hardware store) but nothing is
removing the rodents. I am beginning to
suspect that, far from inducing alcohol
poisoning, the month-long booze binge is
actually the secret to their success.
As always, the Internet has fed my
CABERNET SAUVIGNON BREAD
500g white bread flour
10g salt
10g instant dry yeast
150g Cabernet Sauvignon
150g water
100g chopped walnuts
Sift the our, yeast and salt into a
WorldMags
68 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
Photographs by Theana Calitz
paranoia to perfection. Through the
wonders of the worldwide web I found the
April 2001 issue of the scientic journal
Lipids which contains a paper entitled
Non-alcoholic components in wine reduce
low-density lipoprotein cholesterol in nor-
mocholesterolemic rats. Apparently, the
cardio-protective effects are such that I can
look forward to a 30 to 50% increase in
life expectancy in the rat-arsed felons.
They don't seem to be varietal specic in
their cork-chewing habits which suggests to
me that they have not read Bordeaux-based
Dr JP Broustets paper in Heart which
reports that the highest level of resveratrol
the compound which increases levels of
good cholesterol and slows production
of bad cholesterol is to be found in back up.
Cabernet Sauvignon. Or perhaps they have
seen his work and they are simply confused
by subsequent Californian data placing Zin-
fandel at the top of the resveratrol tree. The
absence of tooth marks on my Port collec-
tion indicates that they have taken account
of Dr ngelo Carneiro of the University of
Porto whose recent article is tellingly titled
Red wine, but not Port wine, protects rat
hippocampal dentate gyrus against ethanol-
induced neuronal damage.
But I may yet use their worldly wise
bowl. Add the wine and water and
mix the dry and wet ingredients until
a soft dough is formed. Knead for
about ve minutes then add walnuts
and knead until smooth. Place the
dough in an oiled bowl and cover
with a damp cloth until it is doubled
in size (for about one hour). Punch underneath. Cool on a wire rack.
ON THE WEB
For more recipes and
wine pairing ideas go to
www.winemag.co.za/
page/recipes
ways against them. Wei-Jung Chen, in the
journal Alcoholism: Clinical & Experimen-
tal Research, reports on the behavioural
and biochemical effects of binge drinking
and smoking in adult rats. I'm really not
making this up apparently he injected
rats with a range of alcohol doses. He
also gave them nicotine doses similar to
those in the bodies of light, moderate and
heavy smokers. Both the nicotine and the
alcohol triggered feel-good brain chemi-
cal dopamine but indulging too much in
either habit resulted in the rats building
tolerance and resultant reduction in pleas-
ure. Heavy users of one tended to agitate
for increased intake of the other in order
to help bring their dopamine response
So, I am going to buy my rats a big box
of cigarettes and hope that lung cancer
gets them. They drink a lot, my rats, and
I have high hopes for their smoking hab-
its. In the meantime I am preferentially
drinking/eating what remains of my
resveratrol-rich wines as fast as possible.
This Cabernet Sauvignon bread recipe
is adapted from the one found in Peter
Mayle's Confessions of a French Baker
and goes jolly well with a glass of the good
stuff and a chunk of cheddar.
down then divide the dough into two
equal-sized balls and leave to rise
again. Knock back each ball and shape
into loaves. Leave to rise until doubled
in size. Preheat oven to 220C. Bake
for 30 minutes or until the bread is
risen and sounds hollow when tapped
 PERFECT PAIRING
Wine magazine recommends

KLEINE ZALZE VINEYARD SELEC-

TION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009

NOTES: Cassis on the nose and palate.

Fruit-driven, modern style.

OTHER OPTIONS:
Zevenwacht 2008; Overgaauw 2009. For
more tasting notes turn to page 70.

WorldMags

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 69
BUYING GUIDE
cabernet sauvignon
BUY INGguide
Cabernet Sauvignon
SAs most widely planted red variety,
Cabernet Sauvignon, impressed the panel this month,
with three 4 Star wines and 21 wines scoring 4 Stars.
About the category: The traditional
home of Cabernet Sauvignon is Bordeaux,
particularly the so-called Left Bank vine-
yards situated west of the Gironde River
and incorporating such famous appella-
tions as Margaux, Pauillac, St-Estphe,
St-Julien and, further south, Graves.
Because Cabernet Sauvignon can be
difcult to ripen fully, making for lean and
astringent wine, it is often blended with
plumper Merlot. However, the best wines
WorldMags from this variety display exceptionally
deep colour, the characteristic aroma of
blackcurrants (cassis) and a high level of
tannin. In addition, they have an almost
unequalled capacity to age in bottle.
In SA, Cabernet Sauvignon is the second
most widely planted variety after Chenin
Blanc, making up 12.31% of the total area
under vineyard at the end of 2009.
Key findings: Cabernet Sauvignon
has always been a strong category for SA
but seems to be getting better and better;
witness 24 wines out of 196 or around
12% of the line-up in this years category
tasting being rated 4 Stars or better.
Out of the top-performing 24, one was
from 2006, eight were from 2007, 10
from 2008, four from 2009 and one from
2010, suggesting that 2008s reputation
as a difcult vintage might have been ex-
aggerated. Of course, most quality-minded
producers wont yet have released their
wines from the highly regarded 2009, so
perhaps we can expect even higher ratings
when these do come up for review.
Whats pleasing about the wines under
scrutiny is that South African producers
WorldMags
70 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
seem increasingly capable of balance,
with the panel particularly impressed
with how much pure, clean fruit was on
display. Local reds used to be criticised
for being green, which was then followed
by an over-reaction where winemakers
gunned for weight and power at all costs.
Now there seems to be more of an under-
standing as to what combination of factors
in terms of viticulture and cellar practice
constitutes the most suitable solution.
The best wines showed good avour
concentration and length and there was
a sense of the winemaker working with
top-quality fruit from well-established
vineyards. A notch down, however, and
there was a whole bunch of wines that,
while not quite as intense, were still very
attractive winemakers working with fruit
from young vines seem less inclined to
force the issue in terms of extraction and
oaking and are happy to make lighter-style
wines for earlier drinking.
It is important to remember that there
was a huge increase in the planting of red
wine varieties between the late 1990s and
early 2000s as part of the great industry
restructuring post political transformation,
these vines only recently starting to provide
top-quality grapes. In light of this, it is
hoped that the difcult trading conditions
that the industry faces as a result of de-
pressed international markets made worse
by a strong national currency is not going
to compromise all the hard work that has
been done in the last decade or so.
What of the less successful wines? Here
the panel detected perennial shortcomings
such as clumsy acidication and over-oak-
CURIOUS?
Are you wondering
what our
tasting procedures
and rating definitions
are? Find out on
page 76.
ing. Sadly, spoilage yeast Brettanomyces
was all too evident in some cases, while
there were quite a few wines that showed
premature evolution, the result no doubt of
high pH values. Comment was also made
of what appeared to be obvious blending.
Winemakers are legally permitted to add up
to 15% of another variety and still claim
single variety status, the theory being that
this makes for greater complexity, but in
practice these appeared discordant and
diminished the integrity of such wines.
Overall, however, Cab is an excit-
ing class which seems to be enjoying a
resurgence, having been out of fashion for
a while. It has become one of the bigger
classes that the Wine magazine panel has
tackled in the last few years, the product
perhaps of the growing realisation that
it produces happier wine across all price
points than green Merlot or boring Shiraz.
SUBMISSIONS
Wines tasted in these categories are
generally submitted by producers who
wish to take part in the assessment.
Any omissions are due to:
producers being between vintages;
producers not having sufcient stock
to meet entry requirements (where the
tasting is a competition); producers
choosing not to enter assessments
(where the tasting is not a competition,
Wine magazine reserves the right to
buy these wines); a particular wine
undergoing a label change.
Notable omissions from this
months Cabernet Sauvignon
category tasting include:
Boekenhoutskloof 2008, Delaire Graff
Reserve 2008, Grangehurst Reserve
2006, Guardian Peak Lapa 2008,
Kanonkop 2007, Le Riche Reserve 2007,
Thelema The Mint 2008.
 cabernet sauvignon
Panel chairmans choice
Looking for a personal recommendation?
Christian Eedes discusses some of the wines that
stood out for him during this months blind tasting.

INVESTMENT CABERNET SAUVIGNON INVESTMENT CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Blaauwklippen Vineyard Selection 2007 Waterford Estate 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R80 CELLAR PRICE: R135

WorldMags
Old-style Cab with cassis as well as tobacco and attractive oak on
the nose. The palate shows pure fruit, fresh, almost tart acid-
ity and rm but ne tannins, while the nish is long and dry.
Includes a dash of Petit Verdot.
CEs score: 18/20
The rst 100% Cab from this Helderberg producer since 1998
(the 2006, for instance, included 10% other Bordeaux varieties).
Classically styled, this wine shows cassis and a pleasant leaness
on the nose. The palate has good fruit purity, fresh acidity and
well-judged oak. CEs score: 18/20

INVESTMENT CABERNET SAUVIGNON INVESTMENT CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Uitkyk Carlonet 2001 Rudera 2008
A P P ROX I M AT E R E TA I L P R I C E : R 8 4 . 0 6 A P P ROX I M AT E R E TA I L P R I C E : R 1 5 0

2001 was Uitkyk winemaker Estelle Lourens rst vintage and a
portion of this wine was held back after it enjoyed competition
success on initial release. Ten years on from vintage, its ready for
drinking with ripe fruit offset by appealing secondary character.
CEs score: 17/20
The nose is a little shy but the palate shows super-concentrated
dark fruit, fresh acidity and rm but ne tannins. Residual sugar
of 3.6g/ lends polish, and it certainly seduced me! Other panel
members found it overdone, the fruit in particular too ripe.
CEs score: 19/20

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 71
 cabernet sauvignon

Kuun Integra 2009

LAvenir 2008 ON THE WEB (Petite Provence)
CELLAR PRICE: R85 Interested to know how other CELLAR PRICE: R65
Alc 14% RS 2.1g/ TA 5.8g/ pH 3.6 wines fared in past ratings? For Alc 13.87% RS 1.8g/ TA 6.1g/ pH 3.62

Hint of development on the nose. The 27 000 ratings generated by our Hint of oak on otherwise shy nose.
tasting panel and last years
palate shows pure red fruit, fresh acidity Core of dark fruit, great line of acidity
results, go to
and ne tannins. Complex avour prole, and rm, grippy tannins. Drink 2012
www.winemag.co.za.
savoury nish. Elegant and well balanced. 2014.
Drink now 2013. CE 18 | JP 15 | CA 15.5 | MC 16 | AL 15
CE 18 | JP 17.5 | CA 17 | MC 17 | AL 17
Zevenwacht 2008
Kleine Zalze Obikwa 2010* CELLAR PRICE: R65
Vineyard Selection 2009 APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R27.10 Alc 14.5% RS 2.3g/ TA 5.7g/ pH 3.69

CELLAR PRICE: R90 Alc 13.68% RS 6.43g/ TA 5.44g/ pH 3.67 Shy nose. Ripe dark fruit, fresh acidity,
Alc 15.24% RS 4.0g/ TA 6.6g/ pH 3.38 Cassis, violets and vanilla on the nose. rm tannins. Long, dry nish. Honest and
Pronounced cassis on the nose and Seductively sweet fruit, fresh acidity and unpretentious. Drink now 2013.
palate. Fruit-driven, modern style smooth tannins on the palate. Drink now CE 16 | JP 15 | CA 15.5 | MC 17 | AL 17
appearing juicy and sweet with bright 2012.
acidity and unobtrusive tannins. Drink CE 17 | JP 15.5 | CA 16 | MC 16 | AL 15 Cape Hutton 2008
now 2014. (Wyma Vineyards)
CE 17 | JP 17.5 | CA 18 | MC 17 | AL 16 Conradie Family Vineyards CELLAR PRICE: R80
Single Vineyard Barrel Alc 13.85% RS 3.5g/ TA 5.9g/ pH 3.5

Thelema 2008 Selection Reserve 2008 Cassis and attractive oak spice on the
CELLAR PRICE: R175 CELLAR PRICE: R65 nose. The palate shows great fruit
Alc 14.0% RS 1.5g/ TA 5.3g/ pH 3.78 Alc 14.5% RS 4.9g/ TA 5.9g/ pH 3.55 concentration with fresh acidity and
WorldMags Red fruit, attractive herbal note and oak Ultra-ripe dark fruit and vanilla on the ne tannins. Pure and well balanced with
spice on the nose. The palate is medium nose. The palate is rich and broad with a long, dry nish. Drink now 2013.
bodied and elegant with good fruit con- avours of red and black berries, choco- CE 18 | JP 15.5 | CA 15 | MC 17 | AL 16
centration, fresh acidity and ne tannins. late and spice. Extravagant style. Drink
Pleasingly austere. Drink now 2018. now 2013. Kloovenburg 2009
CE 16.5 | JP 17 | CA 17 | MC 16 | AL 18 CE 17 | JP 17.5 | CA 17 | MC 15.5 | AL 14 CELLAR PRICE: R83
Alc 14.0% RS 3.4g/ TA 6.1g/ pH 3.4

Intense cassis and attractive oak on the

nose. Rich and full on the palate but
WHAT TO EAT WITH balanced. Pure fruit, fresh acidity and
CABERNET SAUVIGNON rm tannins. Drink now 2014.
CE 17 | JP 14 | CA 16.5 | MC 17 | AL 16
Cabernets bold personality is not always easy to match with a meal. If
you drink your Cabernet young when its full of upfront fruit, oak, tannin
and alcohol it can crush almost anything light and delicate. Furthermore,
Cabernet is as fussy as a maiden aunt when it comes to fashionable berry or
fruity chocolate, spicy reduction and chilli-sweet sauces. What it likes best
of all is uncluttered but ample food: that Chteaubriand, done to perfection,
a plainly grilled, lazy-aged steak or roast lamb, pink and juicy, for which it
has a very special afnity. Other than that, almost any dark meat dishes will
do. Bitter foods also pair well with Cabernets tannins from braised endive
to radicchio and roasted eggplant. It has its uses with Indian cooking too,
where red-hot Madras sauces do not in the least intimidate it. Cab Sav also
responds well to earthy and herbal elements and is wildly in love with both
rosemary and thyme. Not all Cabernets are big and tannic, however, so
when you opt for a softer, lighter-bodied or a matured wine, dishes featuring
poultry or meatier sh (like swordsh and tuna) become good options.
Katinka van Niekerk, author of The Food & Wine Pairing Guide

WorldMags
72 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
 Delheim 2007 Kumkani Cradle Hill
CELLAR PRICE: R89 Vineyard Selection 2007 ARE YOU
Alc 14.09% RS 2.9g/ TA 6.1g/ pH 3.62 (the company of wine people)
GETTING WHAT
Dark fruit, some tea leaf and oak spice APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R134.99
on the nose. The palate is rich and full Alc 14.5% RS 2.2g/ TA 6.2g/ pH 3.54
YOU PAY FOR?
but balanced with dense, pure fruit, Dark fruit, mint and a oral note on the Average price per 750ml bottle of
fresh acidity and rm tannins. Persistent nose. An elegant, medium-bodied wine the 196 wines assessed:
nish. Drink 2012 2017. with clean, pure fruit and fresh acidity be-
R93
CE 17 | JP 15.5 | CA 15.5 | MC 17 | AL 17 fore a long, dry nish. Drink now 2012. Average price per 750ml bottle of
CE 15 | JP 15.5 | CA 15.5 | MC 17 | AL 17 the 24 wines rated 4 to 4 Stars:
La Bri 2007 R137
CELLAR PRICE: R90 Waterford Estate 2007
Average price per 750ml bottle of
Alc 14.0% RS 2.5g/ TA 5.8g/ pH 3.52 CELLAR PRICE: R135 the 70 wines rated 3 to 3 Stars:
Cassis and mint on the nose. The palate Alc 14.5% RS 2.2g/ TA 6.4g/ pH 3.64 R91
is medium bodied and elegant with dark Cassis, graphite and attractive oral note
fruit, fresh acidity and ne tannins. Oak on the nose. Good fruit purity, well-judged
Average price per 750ml bottle of
the 82 wines rated 2 to 2 Stars:
particularly well judged. Drink now oak, fresh acidity. Long, dry nish. Drink R83
2012. 2012 2017.
CE 16 | JP 17.5 | CA 16 | MC 17.5 | AL 16.5 CE 18 | JP 15 | CA 15 | MC 15.5 | AL 17 Average price per 750ml bottle of
the 20 wines rated less than
2 Stars:
Meerendal 2006 Naledi 2007 (Spier) R88
CELLAR PRICE: R95 CELLAR PRICE: R148
Alc 14.94% RS 3.5g/ TA 6.0g/ pH 3.56 Alc 15.28% RS 3.1Bg/ TA 6.3g/ pH 3.64

Dark fruit and an attractive herbal note on Ultra-ripe dark fruit on the nose and
the nose. Good fruit concentration, fresh palate. Very full-bodied, powerful and Klein Constantia 2008
WorldMags acidity, rm but ne tannins. Some weighty. Good concentration, lots of toasty CELLAR PRICE: R150
pleasing development. Drink now. oak. Drink now 2012. Alc 14.7% RS 3.2g/ TA 5.4g/ pH 3.84

CE 18 | JP 16.5 | CA 16 | MC 16.5 | AL 15 CE 17 | JP 15.5 | CA 16 | MC 16 | AL 15.5 Ripe dark fruit on the nose. Sweet, rich
and full on the palate. Concentrated with
Overgaauw 2009 Spier Private Collection 2008 prominent oak. Extravagant style. Drink
CELLAR PRICE: R109 CELLAR PRICE: R148 now 2013.
Alc 14.0% RS 3.1g/ TA 6.0g/ pH 3.73 Alc 14.2% RS 2.9g/ TA 5.8g/ pH 3.62 CE 14.5 | JP 16.5 | CA 17 | MC 16 | AL 15
Ripe dark fruit and graphite on the nose. Cassis and attractive oak on the nose.
Rich, full and smooth textured on the Rich and full but balanced. Juicy fruit, Oldenburg Vineyards 2008
palate. Oak currently prominent. Drink fresh acidity and good tannic grip. Long, CELLAR PRICE: R168
2012 2016. dry nish. Drink 2012 2015. Alc 14.5% RS 3.3g/ TA 5.62g/ pH 3.66

CE 16 | JP 17.5 | CA 16 | MC 16 | AL 16 CE 18 | JP 16 | CA 15.5 | MC 16 | AL 17 Cassis and attractive oak on the nose. The

palate is big, bold and smooth textured.
Sweet, juicy fruit, very polished. Drink
now 2013.
BEST VALUE TOP FIVE CABERNET CE 16 | JP 16 | CA 17 | MC 16.5 | AL 15.5
SAUVIGNON WINES ON PRICE
De Trafford 2008
Wines rated 2 Stars or better and recommended for particularly good value CELLAR PRICE: R200
on the basis of their quality/price ratio in the context of the average price per Alc 15.07% RS 1.7g/ TA 5.6g/ pH 3.92
bottle of the 196 wines assessed:
Ultra-ripe dark fruit and spicy oak on the
NAME OF WINE RATING PRICE nose. Big but well structured on the
Obikwa 2010* ARP 4 Stars R27.10 palate. High alcohol apparent for some.
Orange River Cellars 2010 3 Stars R26.70 Drink now 2013.
CE 15 | JP 17 | CA 14 | MC 17.5 | AL 16
Libbys Pride 2009 3 Stars R28.50
Bovlei 2008 3 Stars R30
Tulbagh 2009* 3 Stars R30

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 73
BUYING GUIDE
cabernet sauvignon

Stark-Cond Three Pines 2008 Waterhof Reserve 2008 Christina van Loveren
CELLAR PRICE: R235 (Waterstone Wines) R83.50 Limited Release 2009 (Van Loveren) R83
Alc 14.5% RS 2.1g/ TA 5.9g/ pH 3.83 Eikendal 2008 R85 Allesverloren 2008 ARP R84.06
Optimally ripe dark fruit and some oral Knorhoek 2007 R85 Uitkyk Carlonet 2001 ARP R84.06
fragrance on the nose. The palate is Middelvlei 2008 R95.50 Mont Rochelle 2005 R90
medium bodied and elegant, appearing Fort Simon 2007 R96 Remhoogte 2008 R96
juicy and fresh with relatively soft tannins. Jordan 2007* R103.50 Nederburg Manor House 2008 R97
Drink now 2015. Hartenberg 2007 R120 Beau Joubert 2007 R99
CE 17 | JP 15.5 | CA 16 | MC 17 | AL 15.5 Neil Ellis 2008 R120 Diemersfontein Carpe Diem 2008 R110
Stark-Cond 2008 R125 Swartland Indalo 2008 R110
Perdeberg Winery Land of Hope 2008* Zorgvliet 2006 R110
Rex Equus 2007 (The Winery of Good Hope) R140 La Motte Millennium 2008 R113
CELLAR PRICE: R240 Ernie Els 2009 R145 Spier Woolworths Reserve 2007 ARP R115
Alc 14.45% RS 4.2g/ TA 5.6g/ pH 3.53 Rustenberg Peter Barlow 2006 R310 Groot Constantia 2009 R118
Toasty oak and some secondary character Asara 2008 R120
on the nose. The palate shows dense Pella 2007 R120
dark fruit, evolved tannins and fresh Rudera 2008 R150
acidity. Has complexity and nuance. Orange River Cellars 2010 R26.70 Thelema Mountain Vineyards 2007 R175
Drink now 2012. Libbys Pride 2009 R28.50 Flagstone The Music Room 2007* R200
CE 16 | JP 16.5 | CA 15.5 | MC 16.5 | AL 15.5 Bovlei 2008 R30 Neil Ellis Vineyard Selection 2006 R200
Tulbagh 2009* R30 Topaz Conviction 2009 R200
Rudera Platinum 2007 Simonsvlei Lifestyle 2009* R31 Edgebaston GS 2008 R350
CELLAR PRICE: R300 Du Toitskloof 2009* R38
Alc 14.0% RS 2.7g/ TA 6.6g/ pH 3.59 Broken Stone 2006 (Slaley) R42
Shy nose. The palate is medium to full Douglas Green 2009 ARP R42
WorldMags bodied with red and black fruit, fresh Franschhoek Cellar A Few Good Men 2009*
acidity and rm but ne tannins. Pure and The Churchyard 2009* R45 (Riebeek Cellars) R55
concentrated. Drink 2012 2017. Landskroon 2009 R45 Zidela 2010 R27
CE 17.5 | JP 16 | CA 16 | MC 17 | AL 16.5 MAN Vintners 2009* R45 Africa Five 2010
Porcupine Ridge 2009* (Waterstone Wines) R29.70
Rustenberg Peter Barlow 2007 (Boekenhoutskloof) R50 Perdeberg Winery 2009* R31.50
CELLAR PRICE: R310 Stellenrust 2007 R50 Balance Reserve 2009*
Alc 14.63% RS 2.1g/ TA 6.2g/ pH 3.66 Brampton 2008* R54.95 (Overhex Wines) R32
Ripe dark fruit and vanilla on the nose Villiera 2008 ARP R58.80 Bovlei Centenary Collection 2007 R35
and palate. Rich and full with smooth Warwick The First Lady 2009 R60 Swartland 2010* R38
tannins. Very good in a modern style. Landskroon Edenhof 2007 R40
Drink 2012 2017. Paul de Villiers 2009 R62 Klein Dauphine 2008* R40
CE 15.5 | JP 16 | CA 15.5 | MC 16.5 | AL 16 Zonnebloem 2008 R62.99 Simonsvlei Premier Selection 2008* R40
Nederburg Broken Stone 2007 (Slaley) R42
The Winemasters Reserve 2009 R64 Bovlei Vineyard Selected 2009 R50
Lady Anne Barnard 2008 ARP Cathedral Cellar 2009 (KWV) R50
Welmoed 2009* (African Pride Wine) R69 Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection 2009* R50
(the company of wine people) ARP R35.99 Saam 2009* R69 Macs Hill 2007 R50
Fives Reserve 2009 (Van Loveren) R36.90 Glenelly The Glass Collection 2009* R70 Stellenrust 2009* R50
Edenhof 2009 (Schalkenbosch) R40 South Hill 2008* R70 Wandsbeck 2009 R50
Bon Courage 2009 R50 Windmeul Reserve 2009 R70 Merwida 2009 R54
Bellingham Cabernet Sauvignon Mimosa Connor Select 2009 R75 River Grandeur 2009 (Viljoensdrift) R55
with a splash of Cabernet Franc Vinum Africa 2009* Zorgvliet Silver Myn 2008* R55
2009 ARP R59 (The Winery of Good Hope) R79 Bergsig 2007 R57
Tokara Zondernaam 2008* R70 Blaauwklippen Rietvallei 2009 R58
Pepin Cond 2009* (Stark-Cond) R75 Vineyard Selection 2007 R80 Kranskop 2008 R60
Spencer Bay Wine Makers Reserve 2007 Dieu Donn 2007 R80 Backsberg 2007 R64
(Namaqua Wines) R75 Simonsig 2007 R80 Altydgedacht Limited Release 2009 R75

WorldMags
74 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
 Spencer Bay Wine Makers Reserve 2008 Alto 2008 ARP R136.99
(Namaqua Wines) R75 WORTHY OF Devonair
Stellenzicht INVESTIGATION The Cab Family Reserve 2006 R200
Golden Triangle 2005 ARP R76.99 Laibach The Widows Block Single
Topiary 2007 R78 NEIL ELLIS VINEYARD Vineyard 2007 R200
SELECTION 2006
Tormentoso 2009* (MAN Vintners) R79 Lady May 2008 (Glenelly) R235
Bergsig Limited Release 2008 R85 The Bridge 2008 (Rickety Bridge) R390
Groenland Premium 2007 R85
Manley 2008 R85
Klein Genot 2008 R90
Panellist Miguel Chan says:
Edgebaston 2008 R95 Boplaas 2007 R43
Leesy complexity on
Buitenverwachting 2006 R100 Abbotts Hill 2009 R50
otherwise shy nose. The palate
Cederberg 2008 R120 Waverley Hills 2006 R50
shows beautiful restraint.
Swartland Indalo 2007 R110 Havana Hills 2008 R60
Elegant fruit, fine tannic grip.
La Motte 2008 R113 Neethlingshof 2005 ARP R65.43
MCs score: 17/20
Bosman Family Vineyards 2007 R120 Hoopenburg Bush Vine 2006 R69
Hartenberg 2006 R120 Upland 2008 R70
Pella 2008 R120 Stellenzicht
Grande Provence 2008* R140 Neethlingshof 2004 ARP R65.43 Golden Triangle 2004 ARP R76.99
Cederberg Five Generations 2008 R280 Alle Bleue 2008 R72 Laibach 2006 R79
Durbanville Hills 2008 R72 Brahms 2006 ARP R80
Boplaas Family Reserve 2008 R75 Elgin Vintners Third Edition 2007 R80
Boland Cellar Reserve No1 2007 R77 Nitida 2009 R85
Woolworths Longmarket 2009 Blaauwklippen Onderkloof Schapenberg
(Bergsig Estate) R30 Cultivar Selection 2007 R80 Single Vineyard 2006 R98
WorldMags Riebeek Cellars 2010* R31 Dieu Donn 2008 R80 Bon Courage
Ayama 2009 R35 Mooiplaas 2003 R83 Inkara Limited Release 2008 R102
Sonata 2007* (Waterstone Wines) R40.50 Uitkyk Carlonet 2007 ARP R84.06 Webersburg 2005 ARP R110
Alexanderfontein 2008 R46 Welbedacht 2007 Lynx 2009 R130
Craneelds 2006 R50 (Schalk Burger & Sons) R95 Saxenburg Private Collection 2007 R180
Niel Joubert Wines 2009* R50 Benguela Cove Flagstone The Music Room 2004 R200
Jasons Hill 2008 R52 Premium Selection 2009 R98
Ruitersvlei 2009* R54.75 Amares 2007 R105
Les Coteaux 2009 (Mont du Toit) R55 Le Bonheur 2007 ARP R105.56 Two Cabernet Sauvignon wines tasted
Lion Creek 2009* (Napier Winery) R55 Le Bonheur 2008 ARP R105.56 did not receive a star rating.
Windfall 2007 R55 Marianne 2007 R106
Rietvallei 2008 R58 Beau Joubert 2008 R110 CORKED
River Grandeur 2008 (Viljoensdrift) R58 Peter Falke PF 2007 R110 (Both samples supplied displaying TCA.)
Ondine 2008 Hoopenburg Integer 10 Barrels 2006 R115
(Ormonde Private Cellars) R61 Joubert Tradauw R62 2008 R120 Groenland
The Classic Collection 2005 R59.00
Jacobsdal 2007 ARP R80.28
THIS MONTHS TASTERS
PRICES: wines in each quality grouping
are listed in order of ascending price all
ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.

ARP Approximate retail price

* Bottled under screwcap
Christian Miguel Chan Carrie Adams James Angela Lloyd
Eedes Southern Sun Norman Pietersen Wine writer (AL)
Chair (CE) Hotels (MC) Goodfellows (CA) Balthazar (JP)

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 75
BUYING GUIDE
cabernet sauvignon

TASTING PROCEDURES
AND RATING DEFINITIONS

Wine magazines panel tastings are conducted blind, labels out of sight. Panellists include Wine Judging Academy graduates,
Cape Wine Masters, top winemakers and leading wine writers, with the tasting procedures and results audited by chartered
accountants PKF. The wines reviewed are generally sourced from the producers and assessed class by class and at optimal
temperatures.
After the tasters have judged the wines independently, Star ratings are awarded on the basis of discussion that involves
retasting where necessary rather than relying solely on arithmetic averaging with a view to reaching consensus. A
20-point scoring system is used to determine a Star rating for each wine:

18 POINTS OR MORE: Superlative, top class, a masterpiece

(96 or more on 100-point scale; extraordinary profound Robert Parker)
16 TO 17 POINTS: Excellent, wine of distinction
(9095 on 100-point scale; outstanding exceptional Robert Parker)
15 TO 15 POINTS: Good to very good, ne character
(8089 on 100-point scale; 8084 above average, 8589 very good Robert Parker)
14 TO 14 POINTS: Average, appealing
(7079 on 100-point scale; 7074 average, 7579 pleasant, straightforward Robert Parker)
13 POINTS: Ordinary
(6069 on 100-point scale; below average of little interest Robert Parker)
WorldMags HALF A STAR, as in 2 Stars, 3 Stars, 4 Stars
ALSO TASTED Unacceptable or faulty
(5059 on 100-point scale; unacceptable Robert Parker)

The panels offer advice regarding how long a wine will last or when it will peak after the tasting date. Best Value rankings are
determined by dividing the average price of all the wines by the price of an individual wine and multiplying by the Star rating for
that wine. Wine subscribers are the rst to know the results of each Wine tasting, with the identity of the wines and their ratings
withheld from all but the editorial team until publication.

For more details about Wine rating procedures and denitions, and for a database of over
27 000 ratings published in previous issues of the magazine, see www.winemag.co.za

pH pH
ACIDITY Potential
of hydrogen. Provides a
measure on a scale from
zero to 14 of the acidity
or alkalinity of a solution
(where seven is neutral
and greater than seven is
more basic and less than
seven is more acidic).
KEY TO ABBREVIATIONS
RS RS TA TA Alc Alc
RESIDUAL TOTAL ACIDITY ALCOHOL LEVEL
SUGAR Measured in A measure of all types During fermentation,
grams of sugar per litre, of acidity within a wine yeast organisms consume
abbreviated to g/, in g/. The objective is sugar and the
referring to the sugar to have a harmonious by-products are carbon
remaining after balance between sugar, dioxide and alcohol,
fermentation in the alcohol and acidity. written as a %
nal product. by volume.

* The unqualied audit opinion is available for inspection at the publishers registered ofce.

WorldMags
76 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
CLASSIFIEDS
WORLD WINE TRADE
Courier Shipping: www.wwt.co.za
Containers Door to door deliveries
Documentation

Gift express EXPORTS Samples

Tel: (021) 876 3465

Fax: (021) 876 3501
Cell: 083 252 1054
E-mail: wwt@iafrica.com
www.wwt.co.za

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VEMPXVEGOW$&SX6MZIV
3TIRJSV4M^^E
6MFW
EVERKISJ(EMP]
7TIGMEPW3TIR8LYVW
;IHWIZIRMRKWJVSQ
TQ*VMHE]JSVPYRGLXMPPPEXI7EXXMPPEXI
7YRHE]XMPPEXI
4EVXMIWERH*YRGXMSRWGEXIVIHJSV
8E\MWXSERHJVSQGERFIEVVERKIH
6IWIVZEXMSRWERHMRJSVQEXMSR
8IP SV
 

WorldMags

HOUW HOEK FARM STALL

The Overberg Wine Collection at Houw Hoek Farmstall.
Most of the wines from the Overberg are sold in the
wine cellar at cellar prices. There is an interesting range
of wines from the region giving customers an interesting
selection of ne wines to choose from.
Fresh farm produce, freshly baked bread and the best
homemade pies, biscuits and cakes are available in the farm
stall. Select from the deli and enjoy a picnic alongside the
tranquil dam. Rods can also be hired for trout shing.

OPEN: 7 days a week from 07h30 17h30.

On the N2 between Elgin and Botriver
Tel: +27 28 284 9015
Fax: +27 28 284 9529
Email: info@houwhoekfarmstall.co.za

WorldMags
78 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
 CLASSIFIEDS
STEELRAX
TM
NewsBites
1 KWV gives back
Over the past two years, KWV STEELRAXTM units are made of wrought iron, primed
has been recruiting and training aesthetically pleasing, highly functional and amongst the
unemployed youth in the Paarl and least expensive forms of wine storage.
Worcester communities specically
for employment in the hospital- Standard unit (180 bottles)
ity sector. It has now taken this 2m high x 1m wide x 21.5cm deep.
Other sizes available on request.
targeted skills development project
a step further, by offering study as- STEELRAXTM are produced and marketed by
CELLARAX WINE CELLARS (PTY) LTD
sistance to previously disadvantaged Tel: (011) 482 9178
individuals who aspire to receive cellarax@reciprocal.co.za www.reciprocal.co.za
a formal, specialised qualication
in the hospitality sector an earn
while you learn alternative to
full-time tertiary education.
KWV has partnered with The
International Hotel School (IHS),
the largest private hospitality train-
ing provider in the country, to assist
candidates who are interested in
working and studying in the hospi-
tality and tourism sector. IHS has
campuses in Sandton, Durban and
Cape Town, with study assistance
being available at all of the afore-
mentioned campuses.
This year, a total of 25 students
have been sponsored by KWV.

WorldMags
2 MISS OR BLISS?
Durbanville Hills wine estate is now
offering a miss versus bliss tast-
ing, a fun sensory experience that
explores why certain wine and food
combinations work and others leave
much to be desired. The tasting
consists of six Durbanville Hills wines
paired with a variety of nibbles at a
cost of R50 per person and is avail-
able all day from Tuesday to Sunday.
Booking essential.
Call 021 558 1300 or email
sibrown@durbanvillehills.co.za.

3 Chardonnay Forum
appoints new chairman
Matthew van Heerden, wine-
maker and viticulturist of Uva Mira
has taken over from Kathy Jordan in
chairing the SA Chardonnay Forum.
Matthews new committee consists
of Francois Haasbroek of Water-
ford, Kathy Jordan of Jordan, Mia
Martensson of The Winery of Good
Hope, Philip Jonker of Weltevrede
and Rianie Strydom of Haskell
Vineyards. The Chardonnay Forum
is an interest group focused on
raising the image of South African
Customised & Modular 8711th Rd t Kew t Jhb t Tel (011) 887 3536
Chardonnay among both consumers
and producers.
Wine Storage Systems www.wineracks.co.za t www.riverwoods.co.za
Email info@uvamira.co.za.

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 77
 PROMOTION
Off the rack Leading winemakers tell you
about their latest wines.

RE
H
Stellenbosch Hills Overgaauw

IT

D
E
Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
S t e l l e n b o s ch Stellenbosch

Star bright with a slight green tinge. An
abundance of green tropical fruit on the nose,
such as kiwi, star fruit and melon. A full-bodied
wine with a lingering nish. Grapes were
harvested at optimum ripeness to preserve the
tropical fruit avours in
this wine.
Cellar Door Price: R39
www.stellenbosch-hills.co.za | 021 881 3828
The deep, dark velvet colour and intensity draws
you into this complex wine of great nesse, with
its dark plum core and intriguing layers of roasted
spice and cedar wood, a mlange of red and black
berry fruit and a full, rich, round palate and lengthy
nish. The 18 months spent in 100% new French
oak barrels impart a well-integrated luxurious
elegance. Although accessible, the rm but ripe
tannins give it structure for seven to 12 years
cellaring, when it should reach its full potential
Cellar door price: R109
www.overgaauw.co.za | 021 881 3815

W
RE

H
Toffee Chunk Beaumont Hope Marguerite

IT
D

E
Syrah 2010 Chenin Blanc 2010
Coastal region Bot River

WorldMags Toffee Chunk originated from the toffee
characteristics associated with the unique
maturation of this wine. Very distinct toffee
aromas dominate, followed by a smokiness
and an extended berry nish that follows
through onto the palate.
Price: R84
www.simonsvlei.com | 021 863 3040
A delicious, opulent and well-balanced
barrel-fermented Chenin Blanc. Fresh fruit and
oral aromas combined with cinnamon spice
obtained from delicate use of oak. On the palate it
shows hints of ripe green apple, dried apricot and
almond. Perfect integration of oak with limey fresh-
ness and a great sweet-sour nish. Enjoy with Thai
and Asian cuisine or chicken cordon bleu.
Recommended retail price: R145
www.beaumont.co.za | 028 284 9194

W
BR

Laborie Alambic Brandy DeGrendel Koetshuis

A

IT
N

E
DY

Laborie, Paarl Sauvignon Blanc

Pure double-distilled Pot Still Brandy from
Chardonnay grapes and a touch of Pinotage.
Matured in French oak barrels for ve years and
nally blended with a small portion of 10-year-
old brandy to result in a well-balanced and
complex product. Chocolate, apricot and dried
peach aromas enhanced by ripe strawberry and
exotic pineapple with prominent walnut nish.
Elegant complex and subtle lingering nutty
aftertaste. Recently voted the worlds best
brandy at the 2010 IWSC and gold at Veritas.
Western Cape
The Koetshuis Sauvignon Blanc differs stylisti-
cally from the De Grendel Sauvignon Blanc as
the avour spectrum leans more towards the
green side, yet with ripe avours of capsicum,
asparagus and gooseberries. Supported by a
rm acidity it is a full-bodied white wine with a
strong and long nish.
Recommended price: R85
www.degrendel.co.za

Cellar door price: R126

www.laboriewines.co.za | 021 807 3390

WorldMags
APRIL 2011 Winemag.co.za 79
LIGHTBULB MOMENT
Chef, author and TV personality
Justin Bonello,
who stars in the cooking travel show Cooked in Africa,
talks about wine myths and his bucket list.
WHAT was the first bottle of wine
that made sense and why?
Buitenverwachting Buiten Blanc. There
was a restaurant at the top of Long Street
in Cape Town called Serendipity that
served the most amazing food and, while
wooing one of my early girlfriends, that
bottle of wine broke the ice.
WHAT wine that you have not yet
tasted do you most want to?
Ive got to have the Ambeloui Champagne.
Ive actually got a bottle of it at home. My
wife and I have been waiting for the right
occasion to crack it.
WHAT was the last wine
WorldMags you bought?
Eagles Nest Shiraz.
HOW big is your wine collection
and where do you store it?
In my family, my wife has the wine collec-
tion, and its stored under lock and key.
WHO are your favourite South
African wine producers?
The list is so long. Stuart Botha from
Eagles Nest, Howard Booysen just started
his rst range (Howard Booysen Wines),
Beyers Truter I did a wine show and
there are so many great winemakers, so
to be too specic would be unfair.
WHAT do you like least
about wine?
The myth thats oating around that its
only for the well-to-do. Wine should be
available to everyone.
WHAT is your favourite dish?
At the moment its my Italian lamb potjie
with gnocchi.
WHICH are your favourite
restaurants in South Africa?
Again, it would be a bit unfair to narrow
it down, but worth mentioning is Terroir
(near Stellenbosch), Magica Roma (Cape
Town), Hartford House (KwaZulu-Natal
WorldMags
80 Winemag.co.za APRIL 2011
Midlands), Zacharys (Pezula Golf Estate,
Knysna), The Local Grill (Johannesburg)
My list is long and Im very connected to
some of the best cooks and chefs in
South Africa.
WHICH three people would
you invite to your fantasy
dinner party?
Its funny this is a question that I
get asked all the time. The truth is my
fantasy dinner involves my family and
close friends.
WHAT is your most treasured
possession?
Would have to be my wife! No, just
kidding. Its a Rolex my dad gave me
when I nished school and Im hoping to
pass it on to my son one day.
WHAT is your greatest
extravagance?
I think its my garden. For me its one of
those things you invest in for years. And
to see the fruition after four or ve years
is rewarding.
WHO are your favourite writers?
I read prolically. At the moment its
David Shukman, Reporting Live from the
End of the World, and for escapism I read
a lot of fantasy and Iain Banks novels.
WHO are your favourite
musicians?
Im a bit old school. Anything from David
Bowie, Billy Idol you get the picture.
WHATS your favourite city in the
world and why?
After Cape Town, for obvious reasons, I
like the mayhem of Bangkok. Everything
from the bars, to the street vendors and
even the lousy quality of the air.
WHAT is your idea of
perfect happiness?
Enough space around me so that I dont
see another living human, but theres
plenty of wildlife.
WHAT was the highlight from
your recent trip through Africa?
Listen, my bucket list is long, and every
time I travel through Africa I tick off an-
other part on my bucket list. The highlight
has to be the people that you meet.
WHATS the number one piece
of culinary advice you can
give readers?
There are actually two. Prep: you dont
want to be cooking dinner while your
friends and family are enjoying them-
selves. The second thing is you cant cook
a great meal without great ingredients.
Justin is 39 years old and lives in
Noordhoek, Cape Town. He has a
diploma in IT from the Cape Peninsula
University of Technology. I had a failed
stint in the clothing industry and I
think my television shows provide the
rest of my qualications.
WorldMags

WorldMags
WorldMags

intellectual property, trade mark and copyright sommeliers

trademarks@ens.co.za
edward nathan sonnenbergs

WorldMags