Wine Enthusiast Magazine June 2021

THE HISTORY OF INTERVIEW WITH GLOBAL
WINE & HEALTH MARY J. BLIGE FLATBREADS
WINE &
CULTURE
IN THE
21
CENTURY
ST
From art and
architecture to
TV and film, the
world of culture
is embracing
wine.
LeBron
James
And his
slam-dunk
cellar
$6.99 US & CANADA
Winemag.com
INTRODUCING AN EXCITING RANGE OF WINES FROM TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA
Award winning wines from idyllic Tasmania. We believe passionately in the provenance and unique qualities of Tasmania, its people
and its produce. The pristine, clean and beautiful natural environment defines our unique sense of place in the world. Tasmania produces
outstanding Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé and stunning world class sparkling wines.
To find out more visit tasvintners.wine or contact Head Winemaker Liam

McElhinney BU liam@tasvintners.wine / +61 429 215 680.
©2021 KING ESTATE WINERY - Please Drink Responsibly
15
The art of
THE CULTURE ISSUE

the label
May 2021
12 WHY IS THERE SO
MUCH CELEBRITY ROSÉ?
15 LABELS WITH
ARTISTIC DIFFERENCES
22 Q&A WITH
MARY J. BLIGE
36 THE 21ST
CENTURY’S
TOP MOMENTS
IN WINE & CULTURE
BY THE EDITORS
OF WINE ENTHUSIAST
A review of the modern era’s
most pivotal crossovers of wine
and art, architecture, fashion,
film, music, literature, sports,
television and theater.
Cover Photo by
Gian Marco Castelberg
/13 Photo/Redux
36
Jay-Z’s
Champagne
influence
2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2021

TASTES GOOD. DOES GOOD.
Fetzer stands for a good today and a better tomorrow.
BEST
BUY
2019 GEWÜRZTRAMINER (MONTEREY)
2019 CHARDONNAY (CALIFORNIA)
MARCH 2021
PEOPLE PLANET
©2021 FETZER VINEYARDS, HOPLAND, MENDOCINO CO., CA VISIT US AT FETZER.COM

46 THE NEW OLD WINES OF CORSICA 62 COOL AUSTRALIA
BY ROGER VOSS BY CHRISTINA PICKARD
This Mediterranean island has a distinct Dive into the past, present and future of far-
personality and a host of native grapes that off Tasmania.
express it.
68 JAPANESE WHISKY’S NEW WAVE
52 THE WINDING PATH BY KARA NEWMAN
OF WINE CURES Years after a quick rise to popularity made
BY MEKITA RIVAS these premium pours hard to find, the industry
We take a look back at the millennia of health has regrouped and grown.
uses for wine and how they came to be.
72 FLAT OUT DELICIOUS
56 TIME IN A BOTTLE BY NILS BERNSTEIN
BY SUSAN KOSTRZEWA Just one dough is all you need to unlock a
These four historic Greek varieties have world of wine-ready flatbread recipes.
withstood the ages.
46
Corsica stays
the course
72 56
Bread for Greece goes
success ancient

w w w. m e z z a c o r o n a . i t
Departments Columns
THE CRUSH IN THIS ISSUE
18 Croatian white 10 Widening the World of Wine
wines to know BY ADAM STRUM AND
20 Media to be SUSAN KOSTRZEWA
mixed
24 A berry Daiq VIEWPOINT
revamp 34 Social Engagement
26 An almighty BY EMILY SALADINO
dressing recipe
28 Nebbiolo’s
new turf
LAST DROP
112 A New Palate
30 Social
BY SYDNEY GORE
sustainability
32
strategies
Crust-worthy
Buying Guide
wine pairings 82 New York
103 California
104 South Africa
105 Chile
106 Rhône Valley
108 Brunello di Montalcino
110 Spirits
111 Beer
30
20
Grapes for good
Book ’em
26
Dressed
and ready

Sharing a
GREAT BOTTLE
OF WINE
has a way of leaving people
closer than when they came.
91 P OINTS
©2021 Z. ALEXANDER BROWN WINES, NAPA, CA
PROUD • PASSIONATE • U NCAGED

VOLUME 34, NUMBER 3
Adam M. Strum PUBLISHER
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Handcrafted
1895 1970s 1985 1992 TODAY

BILTMORE'S STORY BEGINS IN FIRST VINEYARD BILTMORE WINERY BILTMORE WINES EARNS 1ST THE STORY CONTINUES
ASHEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA PLANTED AT BILTMORE OPENS DOUBLE GOLD MEDAL #BILTMOREWINES
BI LT MOR E W I N E S .C O M | #B i l t m o r eW i n e s
in this issue
WIDENING THE WORLD OF WINE

The intersection of culture and wine is a natural pairing.
One
of the most enriching all closely linked to the country’s history and, fast-evolving landscape, tapping top distillers of
aspects of wine is how in some cases, alluded to in literature like Hom- exciting, available pours using innovations like
far its reach goes beyond er’s Odyssey and the dialogues of Aristotle. Still local peat and sea-aged casks.
what’s in the bottle. Its connection to—and evolving after all these years, these wines are Also in the issue: Tasmania’s cool wine
increasing appearance in—the wider worlds of seeing new life through modern approaches and wave (page 62); a look back at history’s wine
music, design, film, fashion and more cements next-generation winemakers. We tell you what cures (page 52); understanding the role of wine
its importance to people with a passion for the to drink and who to watch. influencers (page 34) and recipes plus wines
creative arts and introduces new audiences to Another wine destination rooted in time, for bread-based meals from around the world
the wine fold. Corsica, is seeing a resurgence in its roots via (page 72).
We celebrate the intersection of wine and food, culture and, as Contributing Editor Roger Cheers!
culture this month in our culture package Voss reports on page 46, refined and resurrected
(page 36), spotlighting top people and projects versions of its historic wines. Whether as
bringing a 21st century lifestyle lens to what’s varietal or blended bottlings, terroir-driven
in your glass. From the 44-volume Japanese pours like Niellucciu, Muscat Blanc à Petits
graphic novel series about wine, The Drops of Grains and Barbarossa are breathing new life
God, to Broadway Wine Club’s philanthropy, into winemaking on this dramatic island. This
to Jay-Z’s breakthrough Champagne branding is your cheat sheet to drinking in the best the
and more, wine’s cultural crossover continues country has to offer.
to thrive. In Japan, whisky production dates to the
Speaking of cultural connection, on page 56, 19th century, but the category has taken off ADAM STRUM SUSAN KOSTRZEWA
we highlight four of Greece’s most ancient vari- worldwide in the last decade. On page 68, PUBLISHER & CEO EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
eties—Limnio, Assyrtiko, Robola and Liatiko— Spirits Editor Kara Newman checks in on this @adamstrum @suskostrzewa
COMING NEXT MONTH

Napa Beyond Cab The White Wines of Paso Robles Provence Steps Back from the Pale California Grillin’
With an eye on climate change, A fresh crop of seriously excellent Prized for its blush hue, Provençal rosé Strike up the summer with this
winemakers and growers in this white wines has emerged in Paso may have gone too far in lightening up. multicultural menu of all-grilled
northern California region have Robles. We’ll tell you everything you In recent vintages, however, it’s gotten recipes from California chefs served
started to explore what’s next for need to know. exactly what it needed: more color. with the Golden State wines that
TOM ARENA
Napa’s vineyards. Get a look at which match best.

varieties they think might work.

90
POINTS
2018 PINOT GRIS
STRIKING A BALANCE
has been our goal from day one –bringing the complexity and pure flavors of
Oregon’s classic growing regions to your palate. With sustainably farmed vineyards and
the wines’ approachable purity, we believe that happy wines make happy people.
© 2020 Acrobat | www.acrobatwine.com
WINEMAG.COM
Why Is There So
Much Celebrity Rosé?
T
he Era of Celebrity Drinks has seen its hits, like BY
when George Clooney’s Casamigos was sold to GABRIELLE
Diageo for $1 billion, and its misses (Pharrell’s MOSS
Q Qream liqueur, we hardly knew ye). Today,
however, most celebrity brands are rosé wines,
and consumers are snapping them up.
According to Mike Osborn, founder and executive vice
president of Wine.com, “rosé has such a wide appeal” that
the site carries more than 670 pink wine products. Jon Bon
Jovi and son Jesse Bongiovi’s Hampton Water, Brad Pitt and
Angelina Jolie’s Chateau Miraval, and Lisa Vanderpump’s
Vanderpump Rosé are the site’s second, third and fourth
most popular roses, respectively.
Other stars who make rosé include John Legend, Sarah
Jessica Parker, Dave Matthews, John Malkovich, Kylie
Minogue, Sting and Trudie Styler, Drew Barrymore and Post
Malone, whose Maison No. 9 launched last year. Cameron
Diaz and Who What Wear cofounder Katherine Power also
debuted a vegan-friendly wine brand, Avaline, that includes
white wine and rosé made from organic grapes. Follow us
TOP TO BOTTOM: DORON GILD; BETSY NEWMAN; COURTESY OF INVINO WINES; GREG REEGO
Why do so many celebrities create rosés? For one thing, @WineEnthusiast
rosés are popular. According to Nielsen data, rosé sales in the
U.S. grew 40% from 2018 to 2019. Osborn says that Wine.
com has seen rosés grow 350% year over year.
Regine Rousseau, founder/CEO of Shall We Wine, which
offers retail tastings of wine, spirits and beer, says that, “if I
had the money to put together a wine brand, I would be a fool
not to have a rosé in that brand.”
A celebrity endorsement goes a long way to change
consumer sentiment, especially if someone may have once
associated rosé with their mom’s lipstick-stained glass
of white Zinfandel. But while celebrity names may cause
consumers to pay attention, endorsements were not always
associated with quality.
There’s precedent for this current rosé boom. Some of the
earliest celebrity endorsements were for wine...
Want the full story? Visit winemag.com/CelebRose

WINE HARD SELTZER
ELTZER
S
HARD
ITH
W
E
E
IN
D
MA
RE AL W
Wine Based Seltzer, ©2021 E. & J. Gallo Winery, Modesto, CA. All rights reserved.
VIN
In this issue, we
explore some
of the century’s
key intersections
IN
of wine and
culture. But
let’s not forget,
making wine
is an art unto
VIVID
itself, and
increasingly, that
creative process
extends to the
COLOR
bottle. Turn
the page for a
gallery tour of
selections that
bear equally
compelling
labels produced
with the help of
visual artists.>>
WINEMAG.COM | 15
VISION STATEMENT
OFF-LABEL
ART
BY
Explore how wine
bottles embrace
visual design.
A N N E WA L L E N T I N E
P H OTOS BY
TO M A R E N A
To read
more about
Donnafugata
T
and Dolce &
hough bottle Gabbana’s
labels have collaboration,
please visit
existed since winemag.com/
ancient Egypt, DolceGabbana
the advent of
lithography in the late 1700s
allowed mass-printed labels
to rely more heavily on
Castellani Tenuta di Ceppaiano
images to express a wine’s
commemorates Keith Haring
character or origin. Over the
years, art has expanded the Tuscany’s Castellani family has
role of labels from purely Donnafugata Rosa rosé forged several relationships
that blend art with wine, most
informational to aspirational encapsulates Sicilian style
predominantly through its non-profit
and even collectable, and and terroir artist sanctuary, Materia Prima. In
they now convey more about 2019, they released a bottling to
Donnafugata’s collaboration with commemorate one of their more
a wine than language could fashion house and fellow Italian famous friends: Keith Haring. Its
alone. After all, wine, like brand Dolce & Gabbana (D&G) relies label features a sketch the artist
on art to help express its history and had given to the family, who were
art, is a sensory experience, terroir. A blend of Nerello Mascalese instrumental in the creation of his
and a bottle’s label “has to and Nocera, two indigenous Sicilian final public mural in Pisa, Italy, back
be beautiful,” says Elaina grapes harvested from around Mount in the 1980s. The work depicts one of
Etna, the wine is emblazoned with Haring’s characteristic figures fleeing
Leibee, wine director for a D&G design inspired by Sicily’s an onslaught of grapes and the
Erewhon Market, a specialty characteristic folk art. It features wine’s profits benefit the Castellanis’
grocery chain in California. energetic, geometric bursts of color Materia Prima.
that recall the vibrant patterns of the
Here, five label projects that island’s traditional carts and portray
demonstrate the ways art a strong sense of culture and place
and wine can intertwine. to many, yet also read as playful and
approachable to those unfamiliar
with the region’s iconography.

The medium becomes the
message for Stolpman
Vineyards’ Para Maria
In some cases, labels prioritize art

over information, or even replace
words entirely with an eye-catching
image. Stolpman Vineyards’ Para The labels of Las Jaras Wines
Art moves beyond the labels
Maria labels are a great example.
of St. Reginald Parish are fun, fresh and forward
Used for both a red wine and a rosé,
they do not contain any text and
Some labels exemplify the synergy of Modern label designs can whole-
instead allow the face of an owl to fill
art and wine. In 2020, photographs heartedly counter the formality of
the space. They were designed by Kari
by Catherine Opie appeared on a traditional wine labels notorious
Crist, the winery’s creative director, in
two-bottle collaboration between for depictions of historic chateaus
honor of their namesake, Winemaker
Willamette Valley producer St. and elaborate cursive. Producers in
Maria Solorzano. The tecolote, or
Reginald Parish and Los Angeles comparatively young winemaking
night owl, is both a nickname for
wine shop Domaine LA. Given the countries like America and Australia
residents of Solorzano’s hometown
wines’ concept and styles, Opie have often led this charge. These
in Jalisco, Mexico, and a nod to the
created pensive sunset scenes that makers rely on playful graphics to
nocturnal harvest season that she
complemented the colors of the convey their more approachable
leads. The label may not inform
orange and white wines. Wine is “an and experimental attitude toward
consumers about the wine within
aesthetic experience and a sensory wine. California’s Las Jaras Wines,
either bottle, but it does provide a
experience, and the visual nature for instance, has been known to
compelling visual.
of the bottle is part of that,” says choose bright colors and designs
Domaine LA’s owner, Jill Bernheimer. made by artists like Chloe Wise and
To extend the art’s impact beyond Jen Stark. Rather than adhere to a
the bottles, Opie’s photos were single theme or statement, the labels
also produced as limited-edition resonate across several movements
prints to benefit Los Angeles venues of contemporary art to convey the
The Underground Museum and energetic character of the producer’s
Summaeverythang Community Center. minimal-intervention bottlings.
WINEMAG.COM | 17
WHITE RIOT
CROATIA’S POŠIP
LIGHT SIDE
Believed indigenous to the island of Korčula, Pošip is now grown widely, and almost exclusively, along
the Dalmatian Coast and the island of Hvar in microclimates influenced by the Adriatic Sea. Named for
its resemblance to the sip, the curved side of a vineyard tool used historically in these areas, it produces
luscious white wines that offer aromas of green fig and fresh apricot, and flavors of white peach,
tangerine and toasted almonds. Stylistically, Pošip tends to fall on opposite ends of the spectrum. Some
winemakers vinify in stainless steel to create crisp, clean versions, while other producers age in oak for
several months for a rounder, full-bodied bottling.
Brands to know: Korta Katarina, Saints Hills, Zlatan Otok
Croatia is recognized by wine GRAŠEVINA

lovers for its mouthwatering The most planted variety in continental Croatia, versatile Graševina is used to make everything from
crisp, fresh bottlings and full-bodied, oak-aged offerings to traditional-method sparklers and even
white wines. Wildly popular sweet, late-harvest wines. The grape is genetically identical to Welschriesling, a white-wine variety
grown across central and eastern Europe that has a reputation for fairly simple, high-acid wines. In
both at home and in northern Croatia, however, you can expect delightful aromas and flavors of elderberry flowers, green apple, white
peach and chamomile.
Europe, the country’s aromatic Brands to know: Enjingi, Krauthaker, Vina Belje
bottlings have finally begun MALVAZIJA ISTARSKA

to sprout up on America’s One of the best-known grape varieties in Croatia, it’s grown largely in Istria and nearby areas. It’s one
of the oldest varieties in the region, dating to at least 1385. It generally produces brilliant yellow wines
wine lists and at bottle shop with a greenish hue that boast aromas of green apple, almond blossom and acacia flower, bold fruit
shelves. Here are three grapes flavors and a bracing minerality on the finish. Young versions are great on their own for warm-weather
GETTY IMAGES
sipping, while versions aged in oak or acacia barrels make an excellent match for Istrian and Northern
to keep an eye out for. Italian cuisine.
Brands to know: Benvenuti, Kozlović, Trapan
—Jeff Jenssen

TASTEFUL REFERENCES
Historical Drams for Historical Dramas

Period costumes, vintage glassware and
quotes from the series fill out The Official
Downton Abbey Cocktail Book (Weldon
Owen, 2019), which includes a foreword
by Julian Fellowes, the show’s creator and
writer, as well as an introduction written
by food historian Annie Gray. Try the Wild
Rose, a Tequila sparkler named for the
rebellious Lady Rose.
Meanwhile, the Peaky Blinders
Cocktail Book: 40 Cocktails
Selected by the Shelby
Company Ltd (White
Lion Publishing,
2020), by
These books are Sandrine
Houdre-
the perfect Gregoire
leans into
complement whiskey
to your binge- and gin
libations, an
watching habit. ideal match
for the gangster-
centric series set in
post-WWI England.
How to Toast Teen TV

Saucy drinks served up with
T
sassy side-eye characterize XOXO,
hanks to a A Cocktail Book: An Unofficial Gossip
recent crop Girl Fan Book (Ulysses Press, 2020), by
of niche Bridget Thoreson. Notes for each drink
cocktail dive deep into the show’s plotlines and the
scheming prep-school characters who cavort
books,
amid the glittering backdrop of Manhattan,
you can now raise Martinis in hand. Look for drinks like Dirty
a glass in honor of Scandal (a Dukes’ Martini) and the Brooklyn
characters in your Backstabber (a classic Brooklyn). You know
favorite movies, you love it.
novels and televi-
sion shows. Think All the Best Sci-Fi Sips
of the recipes as fan The gold standard in this category is the well-
fiction in liquid form: researched Drink Like a Geek: Cocktails, Brews,
Many of the cocktails featured and Spirits for the Nerd in All of Us (Mango
in their pages are classic drinks just Media, 2020), by Jeff Cioletti. It celebrates
drinking lore across a wide range of comic
dressed up in cosplay drag, draped in the book and video game universes, plus recipes
whimsy of the fictional worlds from which they like the matcha green-tinged Yoda Gin Fizz.
emerged. Because sure, a G&T is nice, but it might be To head deeper down the rabbit hole
even better transformed into a Star Wars-themed Qui- of themed drinks in eye-popping bright
Gon Jinn and Tonic, a High Society fit for a true Gossip Girl hues, consider the independently published
Drink Me, You Must!: The Essential Star Wars
or a brisk Bonnie Gold, named for a fierce prizefighter in the
TOM ARENA
Cocktail Book (2020), by Sharon Powell, or

Peaky Blinders crime series. Read on to discover a few favorites The Harry Potter Cocktail Cookbook (Lurrena
across a range of genres. —Kara Newman Publishing, 2020), by Geoange Loaen.

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Q&A
REAL
LEFT: ROBERT ECTOR/SUN GODDESS WINES; RIGHT: COURTESY OF FANTINEL WINERY

LOVE
Queen of Hip-Hop Soul
Mary J. Blige talks
about making wine
from the heart.
E
ver since she burst onto
the music scene in the
early 1990s, R&B artist
Mary J. Blige has been
known for deeply personal
music and iconic collaborations with
rappers and other artists. When
she discovered a love for wine, she
became part of another joint venture
to launch a new extremely personal
project, Sun Goddess Wines.
Blige knew that she loved Pinot
Grigio, so a mutual friend introduced
her to Marco Fantinel, a winemaker
and winery owner in Friuli-Venezia
Giulia. The two paired up to create
a Sauvignon Blanc and a ramato-
style, or skin-contact, Pinot Grigio.
We caught up with both of them to
learn about finding harmony in the
winery. —Layla Schlack

A WORD FROM THE
WINEMAKER
Marco Fantinel shares Sun
Can you tell me about a particular moment expensive wine…but they’re looking at it Goddess from his side.
or bottle that made you fall in love with like it’s like top shelf.
wine in general? Were you a fan of Mary J. Blige’s
I think for me, the moment was when What do you like to listen to when you're music before you worked together?
I discovered Pinot Grigio, the Santa drinking these wines at home. I like a lot of her music, you know? I
Margherita. It’s a wine that’s popular, and I In the summertime, during the quarantine, love the personality of Mary, the fact
just couldn’t stop drinking it. That was my I would sit outside in my backyard. And I that she’s very down to earth. She’s
go-to wine. would start with “Summer Madness,” by on top of everything. You cannot
Kool & the Gang…or I’ll start with jazz, you believe it. She was deciding every
And so, eventually, that led you to Fantinel know, and with the Pinot Grigio ramato single aspect of the project.
Vineyards. What was it like the first time all day. That was my go to. And, you know,
you visited? I just make the mood calm and cool for a How did the two of you arrive at the
It was just the most beautiful place. There little while. The more tipsy I get, I move to, decision to make a skin-contact
was so much love that was there… We like, R&B, then hip hop. By the end of the Pinot Grigio?
went right into drinking and tasting. That day, it’s all hip-hop Her desire was to make a super
was the first job, we got that out of the way, Pinot Grigio, and of course when she
and then we rested [and] celebrated. They Is there anything you can share about came to Friuli, we told her how big
had all the pasta, the bread was out of this what’s next for Sun Goddess? a growing category rosé was… She
world, the wine was out of this world, the We’re currently working on a red wine, and came for the harvest, and she saw
people were out of this world. And from that’s coming. We have a Prosecco in the the color of the juice, and she said,
that point on, I knew it was going to be a mix, you know, in the works. That’s coming. “OK, why don’t we do the rosé?”
labor of love. And we hope to keep the brand going and
keep people loving the wine. For more from Fantinel, visit
Your musical inspiration is clear on the Sun winemag.com/MarcoFantinel
Goddess label. Are there any similarities
between making or collaborating on a wine
and on a song? “The wine
Just that you have to have love and respect was out of
for what you’re doing. You have to admire this world…
someone that you want to collaborate with.
I knew it
There have been a lot of celebrity wine was going
projects in the last few years. Did any of to be a labor
those inspire you in any way? of love.”
No, everything is fresh and new from out
of my head and out of my heart. You know,
my sister Tanya, she gave me the name Sun
Goddess, because I liked the sun ever since
I was a child, probably a little more than
I should… When it was time to name the
wine, that was all I could think of.
Now that Sun Goddess has been out for a

bit, can you tell me what the reaction has
been like?
The reaction is amazing. People are really
blown away at the quality of the wine,
you know, the way it tasted. It’s not an
WINEMAG.COM | 23
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RECIPE OF THE MONTH
DIVINE PROPORTIONS
Celebrate spring with this fresh, super herby dressing.
N
amed to honor George
Arliss, lead actor WINE PAIRING
in the popular Maidenstoen 2019
Grüner Veltliner (San Luis
1923 play The
Obispo County)
Green God- With flavors of tart fruits
dess, this vibrant salad and herbs, and its signature
dressing has become white-pepper note, Grüner
a classic. Make it Veltliner is a natural with
herb-driven dishes. Best
your own with any
known in Austria, the
combo of so-called grape is being vinified
“soft” herbs like increasingly in the New
basil, dill, mint World. This bottling
and chives. Just has zippy acidity that
offers a nice textural
don’t skip the
contrast to the
t a r ra g o n — i t’s creamy dressing.
an integral part
of the original
recipe. Also try
it as a dip for cru-
dités, drizzled over
grilled vegetables, or
even as a lighter al-
ternative to Béarnaise
or Hollandaise sauces.
—Nils Bernstein
PHOTO: EVI ABELER, FOOD: BARRETT WASHBURNE, PROPS: PAIGE HICKS

Add all
GREEN GODDESS DRESSING
ingredients to
blender or small
¼ cup mayonnaise food processor.
¼ cup Greek yogurt Blend until
1 tablespoon olive oil smooth and well
2 tablespoons fresh-squeezed lemon juice incorporated.
½ packed cup parsley Use
½ packed cup mixed herbs like basil, dill, immediately,
mint and chives or store in
1½ tablespoons tarragon leaves refrigerator up
1 garlic clove, grated to 5 days. Makes
½ teaspoon anchovy paste (optional) about ¾ cup.

GRAPE ON THE GO
NEBBIOLO’S
ARGENTINA
Italian immigrants introduced Nebbiolo to Argentina during the 19th century.
Viña Alicia was among the country’s first wineries to create high-quality
versions. It’s now the only producer to use one of the two original clones,
which was brought over by owner Rodrigo Arizu’s great-great-grandfather,
NEW TERRITORY
Francisco Ferraris. They yield a wine known for its notes of roses, black
currants, violets and coal tar, as well as its ruby hue that evolves to garnet as
it ages.
AUSTRALIA
Almost 700 acres of the grape are planted down under, mostly in the Yarra
Valley, Hilltops, Adelaide Hills and Margaret River. Luke Lambert, winemaker
This Italian red grape is gaining interest of his eponymous label in the Yarra Valley, believes that despite the many
French grapes found in Oz, the soil and climate in several of its wine regions
around the globe.
Y
are well suited to Italian varieties. The granite and granitic sand soils of his
Denton Vineyard, for example, yield Nebbiolo with bright fresh red fruit,
ou might say Nebbiolo is the vinous equivalent to turning
aniseed, red flowers and fine tannins.
the amp to 11. High in acid, tannins and anthocyanins,
it can be used to make a range of red wines with intense VIRGINIA
aromas and flavors. A native of Piedmont, Italy, its
Though Nebbiolo is just starting to gain interest here, the grape is regarded
name is thought to derive from the Italian word for fog,
by many as one of its best-kept secrets. Luca Paschina, general manager and
nebbia, which blankets the Langhe during harvest. There, the grape winemaker of Barboursville Vineyards, planted some in 1995. He believes
fosters complex styles that are signature to the area, like ageworthy Virginia-grown Nebbiolo has signature aromas of dried strawberry, flowers,
JOÃO NEVES
Barolo and Barbaresco, as well as fresh, fruity, berry-tinged wines cedar and chocolate, along with a citrus note that he feels is unique to the
meant for immediate consumption. Though greatly associated with regional terroir. “[Nebbiolo] shows softer tannins, [yet is] still very chewy,
with a more intense brick-orange tone and great aging potential,” he says.
its home region, astute winemakers elsewhere have also begun to
identify ideal terroir for Nebbiolo. —Kelly Magyarics

• NEW •
MANGO CHILI &

PINEAPPLE GINGER
MARGARITA MIX
JUST ADD TRES AGAVES® ORGANIC TEQUILA

TRES AGAVES® TEQUILA 40% ALC/VOL (80 PROOF) ©2021 TRES AGAVES PRODUCTOS, ST HELENA, CA
ALTER ECO
RADICAL
In wine, sustainability has three CORISON WINERY
parts: environmental protection, This Napa producer is
celebrating its 34th vintage,
economic viability and social and for more than 20 of those,
impact. That last part is often Cathy Corison, its winemaker
SUSTAINABILITY
and founding partner, has
overlooked, but it can go hand farmed Kronos Vineyard
sustainably, planting cover
in hand with a commercial edge. crops and composting.
By incorporating social impact It’s her generosity and
dedication to mentorship,
into their initiatives, these three however, that nurtures her
producers show the way to do following. From former interns
like famed winemaker Hugo
well while doing good. d’Acosta to partnership with
—Cheron Cowan entities like the Battonage
Forum, Corison’s impact is wide.
Yes, the product is excellence,
but the giving helps keep it on
people’s radar.
LEFT COAST ESTATE

Founded in 2003, this award-
winning Willamette Valley pro-
ducer has received numerous
grants to help preserve habitat.
Just as important, though, is its
retention and care for staff. Cali
Pfaff, cofounder and creative di-
rector, emphasizes salary equity
and healthcare for employees.
Outside its own doors, the
estate has raised money for the
NAACP and the Oregon Commu-
nity Foundation with such proj-
ects as “Pinot for the People,”
where certain bottles are pay-
what-you-can.
CEO Taylor Pfaff also aims
for “great hospitality,” which has
helped create a loyal follow-
ing. According to Taylor Pfaff,
“there has been tremendous on-
line support,” in sales and an in-
creased retention rate for wine
club subscriptions.
RED TAIL RIDGE WINERY

This Finger Lakes producer
is groundbreaking in its
eco-friendliness. It utilizes
geothermal energy as its
primary power source and is the
only LEED gold-certified winery
in New York State.
Owner Nancy Irelan and her
husband are devoted to giving
back in other ways, too. For ex- COURTESY OF CORISON WINERY
ample, 10% of net profits from

the sale of their Good Karma bot-
tling go to the local food bank.
The excellence of Red Tail
Ridge’s wine and the deeds that
surround it garner a loyal fol-
lowing. The winery has seen an
increase in online sales.

The epitome of assemblage in champagne
Recreating the perfect year
Photographer Iris Velghe - Design LUMA

98/100 95/100 97/100
Grand Siècle Nº22 in magnum. Extremely limited. www.grandsiecle.com

#grandsiecle
P L E A S E D R I N K R E S P O N S I B LY
PAIROLOGY
BREAD-WINNING WINES
Believe it or not, sourdough bread did exist before it became one of the biggest
quarantine trends of 2020. In fact, there are ancient texts that wax poetic about
sourdough starters, the mix of flour and water that develops live cultures and, as the
name implies, serves as the bread’s starting point. Within each starter, a swarm of yeast
and bacteria creates acids that give sourdough its characteristic flavor. The complex
taste is difficult to achieve with commercial yeast or chemical leaveners, and pairing it
with the right wine can help you appreciate it even more. —Nils Bernstein

SOUR
TANGY
YEASTY
TOASTY
Acetic acid, the primary component Lactic acid is also present in Bread will almost always retain a While sourdough is delicious straight
of vinegar, is what puts the sour in sourdough. Creamier or more yogurt- hint of the yeast’s pleasant piquancy. from the oven, torn into pieces
sourdough. Amplify this note with a like than acetic acid, it’s something Wine aged on the lees, the spent yeast and slathered in butter, its flavors
wine that has a similarly prominent that expert bakers sometimes choose cells left from fermentation, imparts magnify when it’s sliced and toasted.
high-acid component like Chablis. to highlight in their loaves. With notes similar characteristics. A traditional- Malbec’s black-and-blue fruit flavors
Made from 100% Chardonnay, it’s of stone fruit and mandarin orange, method sparkling wine that spends are accompanied by toasty notes
laser sharp, but it also has a mineral Viognier blends with this quality 36 months on lees, Northern Italy’s of tobacco and cacao that offer a
note that would work well with the like a savory version of peaches and Trento Riserva has high acidity surprisingly sympathetic pairing with
OFFSET
woodiness of just-baked bread. cream, or a Creamsicle. and bready, nutty flavors that would toasted sourdough.
complement that yeastiness.

SPECIAL PROMOTION
THINK PINK,
DRINK TAVEL
Meet the bold, deep pink wine
that always pairs perfectly .
Photo Credit: Julie Limont
If you’re looking for a truly versatile wine while keeping things pink, think Tavel. NINE ICONIC GRAPE VARIETIES
Tavel winemakers can use a total of nine
grape varieties (both red and white) to
make their blends. There are seven primary
grapes - Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre,
Cinsault, Clairette, Bourboulenc and
Tavel wines are always blends, and Grenache is a mandatory component. They are easy to spot Piquepoul - while Calitor and Carignan
because of their glorious and unique deep pink, the result of meticulous winemaking with lower are secondary varieties. Thanks to the
vineyard yields and longer maceration times. This care and attention brings the added bonus number of authorized grapes, growers
of surprising ageability: some Tavel vintages can drink beautifully for up to five years or more, can showcase versatility and depth,
depending on their style. experimenting with nuances of flavor, style
and character to produce myriad versions
Good news for chefs: with its deep ruby color and mouthwatering red fruit flavors accented by a of this unique wine.
touch of spice, this gourmet rosé is the go-to choice for successful pairings, transcending classic
matches, whatever the season or occasion.
DID YOU KNOW?
From seafood platters and sushi, spicy Asian dishes or smoky barbecued meat, flame-grilled fish • Tavel only makes rosé wines.
or aromatic herb-roasted vegetables, Tavel’s culinary versatility is unrivaled so you can enjoy it
• The Tavel region spans three different yet
throughout the meal, from starter to dessert. complementary soil types – pebbles, sand
and white limestone - each of which brings
HZWLJPÄJP[`[V[OL^PULZ
• The distinctive, dark robe of Tavel wines
facebook.com/crutavel PZNV]LYULKI`Z[YPJ[ZWLJPÄJH[PVUZHUK
assessed on a scale of 0.5 to 3.
instagram.com/crutavel/#crutavel
• Many Tavel growers farm organically: in
The indefinable wine Take a deep dive into the colorful world of Tavel: www.vin-tavel.com/en/ 2019, almost a third of Tavel AOP wine
^HZVYNHUPJJLY[PÄLK
W
hat comes to mind when you hear the word “influencer”? A photogenic
person sipping rosé in an infinity pool, maybe, or squinting heroically
across a vineyard at dusk?
No matter who or what you picture, chances are you have a strong re-
action. One wine publication went so far as to call them an “Incurable Plague” in
a January 2021 headline. That article referenced a 2020 piece by wine critic
Robert Joseph, titled, tellingly, “In Defence of Wine Influencers.”
Not since natural wine has such a loosely defined concept become
this divisive.
So, what does an influencer do, exactly? A 2019 Wired maga-
zine article declared that the term is virtually meaningless, so “it
is simultaneously an insult and an aspiration, the scourge of small
business owners and the future of marketing.”
In reality, influencers create social media content that aims
to affect consumer spending. They get results, too. In 2018,
49% of consumers made purchases based on influencer mar-
keting, according to the Digital Marketing Institute. Statista,
a research-driven provider of market and consumer data, re-
ported that the global Instagram influencer market doubled
SOCIAL
from 2018 to 2020.
For my #twocents, I think influencers are an under-
utilized asset in wine. They can help struggling brands re-
position themselves, engage new consumers and diversify
the wine business. While the industry wrings its hands
ENGAGEMENT
over how to capture millennials’ and Generation Z’s dol-
lars amid competition from craft beer, spirits and canna-
bis, it could only help to meet potential customers where
they are: social media.
Influencers could do wonders to make wine more
inclusive. If you partner with people from communities
commonly ignored by or omitted from many wine adver-
tisements, you’ll be blown away by the untapped potential.
Much like how LeBron James’ Instagram is currently the
primary source of fine wine messaging to nearly 80 million
basketball fans, there are so many potential consumers as yet
Influencers inspire untouched by mainstream wine marketing.
To a relentlessly optimistic person like myself, influencer
strong reactions from marketing seems like a win-win for wine. Why, then, does it rouse
the wine community. such passion from established professionals who write think piec-
es? It might just be late adoption. Those with deep roots sometimes
But what’s the harm in hesitate to embrace fresh shoots.
being ‘liked’? Or, there could be deeper resentments. That January 2021 takedown
of the “plague” called one female influencer “gormless” with “vacuous
friends.” I’ve never read such language lobbed at models in traditional wine
advertisements. Is the only differ-
ence that influencers own their imag-
es and self-direct their incomes? Do people Digital Associate
begrudge the misconception that “anyone with a Managing Editor
phone” can be an influencer, even as that perceived Emily Saladino
relatability is precisely what makes influencers so com- hasn’t bought
pelling to their followers? anything off
Whatever our feelings, social media isn’t going any- Instagram
MONICA SIMON
yet, but she’s

where. If we dismiss influencers now, we are putting
saved a lot of
corks in our ears and heads in the soil. I’d rather give
shopping carts.
influencers, and wine, a chance.

®
VINOVIEW
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O F YO U R L A B E L S
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The 21st
Century’s
Top Moments in
Wine
& Culture
From art and architecture to TV
and film, the world of culture is
embracing wine. We take a look
at some of the pivotal moments
that solidified this crossover and
introduced new audiences to the
power of the pour.
BY THE EDITORS OF
WINE ENTHUSIAST

Wine&Culture Architecture
Wine&Culture Music
Fine Wines and

Vintage Flows
For 25 years, rapper Jay-Z shaped Champagne culture and commerce
in the U.S. On his 1996 single, “22 Twos,” off his debut album,
Reasonable Doubt, host Maria Davis tells the young rapper to “put that
Champagne down and kick a little freestyle.” In the years since, he’s
only ever heeded the second part.
Of course, Jay-Z wasn’t drinking alone. Historians believe Harlem
emcee Branson B. introduced Champagne to 1990s hip hop parties,
and Dom Perignon and Moët & Chandon were early fixtures.
A 1995 Raekwon lyric is said to be rap’s first mention of Cristal, a brand
with its own complicated legacy in hip hop.
But Jay-Z literally and figuratively made Champagne his own.
In 2006, a bottle of Armand de Brignac, a Champagne
nicknamed Ace of Spades and new to the U.S. market, made a
cameo in a metal briefcase in Jay-Z’s “Show Me What You Got”
video. He rapped about the brand in subsequent tracks and
brought bottles to events.
Suddenly, a Champagne no one had heard of was all
anyone could talk about. Restaurateur Kyle O’Brien recalls
how tourists would order “the briefcase Champagne” at
Manhattan nightclub, Hotel Chantelle, in the late aughts.
Industry sources disagree whether Jay-Z had a financial
stake in Ace of Spades from the start, but in 2014, he
bought the company outright.
It set a precedent for other artists like Mary J. Blige
(see page 22 to read an interview about her Sun
Goddess line), Raekwon and Post Malone to work
with wineries.
“Nowadays there are so many celebrities
involved in brands. Jay-Z was a pioneer,” says
Steven Gonzalez, bartender at Park Hyatt
New York.
It created an access point for drinkers, too.
“These were markets that big companies
weren’t looking at,” food scholar Nia-Raquelle
Smith says of hip hop fans, particularly Black
consumers. “Jay-Z becoming one of the first
higher-end Champagne owners opens so many
doors for the consumer. It lets people know, ‘It is
possible. We can do this.’” —Emily Saladino
Bars “Back of the club “It’s a celebration, clap-clap,

RAVEN VARONA/ARMAND DE BRIGNAC
for the Bar sipping Moët is where you’ll

find me.” —Notorious B.I.G.,
bravo, lobster and shrimp and
a glass of Moscato.” —Drake,
Here are five of our
favorite lyrical tributes to “Big Poppa,” 1994 “Do It Now,” 2009
wine, from other rappers.
“Still over in Brazil sippin’ “When things get hard
“I sip the Dom P. Moscato you must’ve forgot to swallow, we need a bottle
watching Gandhi til I’m though.” —Lil’ Kim, “Lighters of Moscato.” —Ab-Soul
changed.” —Nas, “The World Up,” 2005 featuring Kendrick Lamar,
is Yours,” 1994 “Moscato,” 2011

Wine&Culture Literature
Manga
When a world-renowned
wine critic passed away, it
was assumed his legendary
like the plot of
an elaborate
television
that with English
translations
of volumes
vinous education to those
that didn’t even know they
wanted it and influencing
collection would be left to his
only son. But after snubbing
series or hit
movie on Reached 1–33 currently
available
shopping habits for wine
lovers new and old.
Millions
the family legacy by taking a a popular digitally “Any time information is
job focused on—gasp—beer, streaming through presented in a new way, or
the heir’s inheritance from his platform, ComiXology through a different lens, it
estranged father was not a but it’s not. and plans for brings a higher level of defini-
given, but instead dependent Instead, it is the leading arc the remaining volumes to be tion to the topic,” says Stacy
on his successful completion of Kami no Shizuku, or The published this year. Buchanan, publisher of Blood
of a complex game of his Drops of God, a 44-volume The groundbreaking of Gods zine. “Understanding
father’s design. Japanese manga series. manga introduced new only increases when we’re
The challenge? A blind Created and written by vocabulary, new perspectives exposed to new perceptions.
tasting competition against sister-brother team Yuko and, best of all, new wines Wine and manga, or wine
another wine critic, whom his and Shin Kibayashi under the to millions of readers around and death metal, might feel
COURTESY OF THE DROPS OF GOD
late father recently adopted, pseudonym Tadashi Agi, and the globe through the format like a silly novelty at first, but
in which each must accurately illustrated by Shu Okimoto, of a beautifully illustrated when you drill down into why
identify and describe 13 the series launched in Japan and thoughtfully researched the two are so disparate, at
wines: the first 12 known as in 2004, with new volumes graphic novel. It brought least on the surface, you find
the “Twelve Apostles” and the released through 2014. It has the world of wine and wine out that they actually have a
last called the “Drops of God.” been published in multiple appreciation to more than lot of commonalities.”
This storyline may sound countries and languages, 300 million readers, offering —Lauren Buzzeo
WINEMAG.COM | 39
Wine&Culture Film
Wine’s Sour Grapes is a docu-

mentary about Rudy Kurniawan,
an infamous wine fraud who swin-
historically sealed up and reserved
for a wealthy, privileged few to
profile one of its more outrageous
To that end, its success is
also due to impeccable timing.
Released in 2016, Sour Grapes hit
Foray dled billionaire investors out of

monumental sums of money in
the early aughts. Though focused
public moments.
But, crucially, the movie also
transcends this very specific target
screens at a time when Americans
were obsessed with stories of true
crime. And it has all the elements
into on an interesting subject in its own

right, the reason it’s one of the
century’s most prolific intersec-
audience.
“[It’s] a detective story set
against the collision of two
that make that genre so appealing:
fraud, deception and intrigue, as
well as a cunning—even likable—
True tions of wine and culture is how worlds—the arcane art of French perpetrator, a fast pace and a look
COURTESY OF DOGWOOF
deftly it capitalized on a larger wine production and the reckless at an exclusive slice of society.
societal fascination. excess of noughties New York “It takes us into a world most
Crime For those interested in wine,

the movie offers an entertaining
peek at a segment of the trade
and LA,” says Jerry Rothwell,
who directed the film alongside
Reuben Atlas.
are unfamiliar with, inhabited by
devoted collectors, shady auction
houses, critics [and] riotous

Art
Painting with a Twist
Of Palates Founders Cathy Deano and

Renee Maloney were looking
and Palettes for a way to give back to their

community after Hurricane
Katrina. After learning
about speed painting events, both thought the concept could be an
interesting business.
But Maloney said “‘Well, I’m not the most creative type,’ so I’m trying
to think of how this would appeal to a broader audience,’” says Katherine
LeBlanc, CMO.
To which Deano responded “ ‘well, why don’t we drink wine while we do
it?’ And it was that simple,” says LeBlanc.
Since the company’s beginning, paint and wine events have
grown. Now, there’s Pinot’s Palette, Muse Paint Bar and similar busi-
nesses across the U.S.
How it works is you find a location and sign up for an event, which is
typically two hours. Artists guide the class through a set painting. The
majority of the locations are BYOW (bring your own wine).
tasting groups…at a time when Other Wine LeBlanc notes that these events are an “engaging activity that
extreme inequalities in personal Ones to Watch really open up some parts of your brain that you don’t get to open up if
wealth…are being debated more Sideways (2004) you’re just going out to the bar.”
vigorously than ever,” Rothwell It’s impossible to talk about wine “In addition,” she says, “the wine really helps you get to that point
says. “The story is one way of and movies without mentioning where it’s like, ‘OK, I know I don’t know how to paint, but this [artist] is
thinking through those issues, this one, which forever changed the going to show me how and once I’ve had a glass of wine I don’t really care
but through a different lens. perception of American Merlot with that much. I’m having a really good time.’”
COURTESY OF PAINTING WITH A TWIST
“I think humans always six words: “If anyone orders Merlot, “I think the accessibility to art and approachability to creating things
have been [interested] in acts I’m leaving!” on your own has really definitely given rise to different types of concepts as
of transgression and what well as kind of copycat concepts,” says LeBlanc.
Uncorked (2020)
they mean. It’s just that at So, no need to worry about your creative abilities. Just grab a bottle of
Family relationships and a series
that moment, it’s taken a very your favorite wine and get painting. —Kristen Richard
of economic and racial concerns in
particular form: the streamed
Memphis drive this film. It nimbly
serial where we can binge on it.” To learn more about another place where wine
addresses a social dynamic that’s still
—Sarah E. Daniels and art overlap—on the bottle—turn to page 15.
widely discussed in the wine world.
WINEMAG.COM | 41
Wine&Culture Fashion
Wild Style
My grasp on fashion has always been
tenuous at best, but over the last few
years, I’ve felt a creeping sense of
commonality with that world. It’s an
oft-repeated truth that wine brings
people together, and in this case, it
was natural wine that was intriguing
both me and legions of models and
designers at the same time.
When I first saw Vivanterre wine,
with its swoopy, organic shapes on
the label—on Vogue.com, no less—the
relationship between fashion and
natural wine really crystalized for me.
The aesthetic was defined.
The line was started by Rosie
Assoulin, whose voluminous and
colorful evening wear and jewelry
won her a 2015 award for Emerging
Womenswear Designer from the
Council of Fashion Designers of
America (CFDA), and her husband,
Max, the CEO and president of
Vivanterre. They work with Patrick
Bouju and Justine Loiseau of
Domaine La Bohème in France’s
Auvergne region.
It was Max who explained how the
two worlds relate.
“It’s something that’s new and old
at the same time,” he says. “I think that
there was a big allure to connecting
with something, drinking something
that is both ancestral and also very
aligned with today. And I’m not saying
that from a trend perspective.”
For him and Rosie, he says, the
fashion and wine labels are separate.
And the wine, a project born out of
their passion for drinking and sharing
natural wine over dinner parties and
even at fashion shows, certainly
stands on its own.
Some things continue to change APARTAMENTO STUDIOS/VIVANTERRE
with the season, the year, the decade,

yet they’re still eternal. Whether it’s
a skin-contact blend of Sylvaner,
Gewürtztraminer and Ugni Blanc,
a Gamay, or a blousy floral-print
sundress, the notes and tones will
change over time, and that’s exactly
the point. —Layla Schlack

Wine&Culture Sports
LeBron
James’
Wine Time
The NBA’s love affair with wine has dominated
the intersection of sports and beverage media.
Photos abound of the Cleveland Cavaliers’ team
tastings at Mayacamas Vineyards while the Miami
Heat’s Jimmy Butler has released YouTube tours
of his journeys through Napa and Italy. Inside the
NBA “bubble” of the 2020 season, Portland Trail
Blazers guard CJ McCollum famously turned his
hotel room into walk-in wine fridge to keep his
collection temperature controlled.
However, in the league’s unofficial wine
club, perhaps no figure stands taller than
LeBron James.
One of the game’s greatest players,
James’s taste in bottles looms as large
as his presence on the court. But it’s
social media where he’s connected
with the public, drawing attention to
wine in a way many celebrity partner-
ships strive to achieve.
Several current and former
NBA stars have gone into the wine
business (see right). While James Pass the Bottle
has invested in pizza chains and
These NBA players are among
Tequila, the man who’s been photo- those who have taken a shot at
graphed walking into Los Angeles’s creating their own wine labels.
Staples Center with a glass of red
Retired player Yao Ming may
in hand is one the league’s few have started the trend with his
wine cognoscenti who hasn’t yet Napa Valley Yao Family Wines,
pivoted to production. launched in 2012.
It may also be why grainy Dwyane Wade, former Miami
photos of James’s Sunday night Heat guard, launched D Wade
wine parties and Instagram Live Cellars California wine in
collaboration with Winemaker
videos have resonated so strongly.
Jason Pahlmayer, in 2015.
Without a personal label to promote,
James seems content to simply Former New York Knicks player
Amar’e Stoudemire launched
share bottles he enjoys—Sassicaia,
his kosher, Israeli Stoudemire
Giuseppe Quintarelli, Corison,
Private Collection in 2018.
Pontet-Canet—while playing cards at
Seth Curry, of the Philadelphia
the dinner table.
76ers, is making a Willamette
In a world of slick photo shoots
Valley wine with Momtazi
featuring sunsets in manicured Vineyards, under the Triskelion
vineyards, the biggest name in label, launched in 2020.
basketball shares his passion of wine
Channing Frye, of the Portland
the way we do: in his kitchen, often blurry, Trail Blazers, created Chosen
with a bottle in one hand and cell phone Family Wines in partnership with
in the other. —Dylan Garret L’Angolo Wines, in the Willamette
Valley, last year.
WINEMAG.COM | 43
Wine&Culture Television
Scenes Eugene Levy and his son Dan Rose, played by Dan Levy, The power of this scene is
from a
Levy, it follows the Rose family to explains his sexual preferences to not just due to the introduction
a small, rural town after they’ve his friend and recent tryst Stevie of David as pansexual—a person
lost their fortune. They’re forced Budd, played by Emily Hampshire. who looks beyond biological
Grocery to discover that there’s more to

life than material possessions.
Though the theme has
Shopping for wine, the two chat
in a not-so-coded manner to
clear up Stevie’s confusion.
sex, gender or identity when
searching for love—but in the
nonchalance of it all. Stevie
Store been done before, you’ll quickly

become entrenched in the quirky
personalities, mannerisms and
“Um, I do drink red wine,” says
David. “But I also drink white wine.
And I’ve been known to sample
shrugs off the exchange and
moves on.
That near-apathy sets the
COURTESY OF CBC TELEVISION
The award-winning Canadian quotable moments that run the occasional rosé. And a couple stage for many other occasions
sitcom Schitt’s Creek ended rampant throughout the show summers, back I tried a Merlot down the line where David’s
its six-season tenure in 2020, (ew, David). that used to be a Chardonnay, sexuality is woven into the plot
yet the show lives on in many Perhaps one of the most which got a bit complicated… I as seamlessly as Moira Rose’s
hearts and minds. Created by iconic scenes happened early like the wine and not the label. many wig and outfit changes.
and starring comedy legend in the first season, when David Does that make sense?” As a gay man, I find it can

Theater
“Um, I do
drink red wine,
but I also
drink white
wine. And I’ve
been known
to sample the
occasional The If you had asked me two years ago what the
Show
connection was between wine and theater,
rosé. And I might have said “Probably some song in
Hamilton?” (My apologies to Lin-Manuel
a couple
summers,
Must Miranda.) But when Broadway turned off its
lights in March 2020, and wine and hospitality
Go On
businesses across the country had to close up
shop for an undetermined time, a real point of
back I tried a convergence emerged: philanthropy.
Just as sommeliers and restaurant workers sprang to action through
Merlot that the United Sommeliers Foundation and Restaurant Workers’ Community
Foundation, the Broadway Wine Club tapped into thirsty theater lovers’
used to be a desire to help.
In addition to getting bottles of wine, club members have access to
Chardonnay, virtual events where they can discuss theater and sometimes hang with
the stars. For each membership, $10 goes to The Actors Fund, which
which got a bit provides emergency funds, housing and other services to anyone who
works in the theater.
complicated…” It’s a natural connection, because people often drink wine while they
watch theater or talk about a show while they drink wine, but it seemed
to me like there was a little more to it. I turned to an expert to help put
my finger on it.
“Pre-Covid, I think restaurants were just as much entertainment
as they were nourishment,” says Devra First, restau-
be draining to constantly see rant critic for The Boston Globe. “There’s
myself reflected on screen in something kind of theatrical and scripted,
characters who are struggling Notes on and then also improvisational, about the
as a result of their own sexuality, interaction between the sommelier and
be it internally or wishing others
Scandal the guest.”
could come to terms with it. Another iconic small-screen And in that respect, the connection
image involving wine is
What the writers of Schitt’s has been present all along. In a time
Olivia Pope, played by Kerry
Creek accomplished went far when we’re all desperate to find silver
COURTESY OF BROADWAY WINE CLUB
Washington, sipping Bordeaux

beyond that. It was so simple and (from proper glassware, linings, the wine and theater worlds
nuanced, yet profound, uplifting no less) and eating pop- coming together in a more solid and
and incredibly refreshing. The corn. The hard-driven fixer institutional way is something worth
finds relaxation in fine wine.
fact they did all with a wine- toasting. And as it becomes safer for
It’s a relatable scene, with
focused metaphor only broadens the aspirational addition of restaurants and theaters to open back
the scope to a wider audience. cashmere cardigans and an up, we, like Alexander Hamilton, will
—Alexander Peartree enviable bottle collection. sing, “We are waiting in the wings for
you.” —L.S.
WINEMAG.COM | 45
Corsica
The New Old Wines of
T
he French call Corsica “Île de Beauté,” the beautiful island. And indeed, the
rugged, mountainous landscape of this Mediterranean isle is spectacular,
with mountains in the center, a narrow coastal strip and historic cities. The
French territory also holds millennia worth of history, of grapes, invasions
BY and fierce independence.
ROGER It breeds wines with connections to both Italy and mainland France, yet they express
VOSS their individuality and are totally different.

This Mediterranean island has a distinct personality
and a host of native grapes that express it.
Domaine de la Punta
This is an island that’s resurrecting its roots through culture, food and wine.
The Mediterranean’s most mountainous isle, Corsica is situated 110 miles southeast of the French Provençal coast, 50 miles west of Italy’s
Tuscan coast and just north of Sardinia. Because of its stellar, sometimes scary terrain, it has been left more natural than most islands here,
CLAUDE CRUELLS
with plenty of native grapes, other flora and fauna.

Corsica is enigmatic, with vineyards and grapes that go back thousands of years and deliver wines that are open, rich and structured.
Acres of vines grow grapes for simple rosés, while just a few miles away, impressive red and white wines are made from varieties with names
that only a Corsican can really pronounce.
WINEMAG.COM | 47
Terroir Like No Other
Go in quest of a single Corsican wine iden- that surrounds many vineyards. “Although we are Mediterranean, we
tity, and it’s elusive. Then there is the minerality. Granite have a freshness and balance to our wines
“There are many truths about Corsican rock dominates the landscape and lifts the because we are cooler than the continent,”
wine,” says Manu Venturi, owner of wines, especially the reds. This stunning she says.
Domaine Vico and Clos Venturi, whose landscape has created a cradle for unique The reality is that much of Corsica’s
organic and biodynamic vineyards are wines that need to be explored. wine is cheap and cheerful, made from
situated in the mountains near the center The insularity, the island-ness, is international French varieties and sold,
CLAUDE CRUELLS
of the island. But one quality that he and important, says Sandrine Leccia. She and like rosés, for early drinking. Some of these
others do identify is the amazing aromatic Yves Leccia focus on heirloom vines, some make it to America. This is not the heart of
quality, the sense of wild smells from the revived from their own organic vineyards in Corsican wine.
maquis, the heathland of herbs and plants Patrimonio in the north of the island. Traditional Corsican wine comes from

Corsica’s Key Grapes
Reds Whites of Muscat de Cap Corse. It
Niellucciu Vermentinu makes the aromatic, fruity
(nee-el-LOO-choo) (ver-men-TEEN-u) and sweet wine for which
While this grape is The most widely planted na- this appellation is famous.
genetically identical to tive white variety on the is-
Sangiovese, it’s been land, it arrived from Greece More Varieties
in Corsica long enough, during ancient times. Known Here is where things get even
certainly since medieval as Rolle in other parts of more interesting. There are
times, to acquire a native France, it’s aromatic and so many more varieties out
identity. Dark in color, the fruity, able to make wines for there, many almost lost or
wines have a rough, rustic aging as well as early enjoy- forgotten. Some are now
edge when young, but can ment. It can even work with in the wines, some are still
age exceptionally with bold wood aging. in test vineyards. None will
tannins that give structure appear on the label. It’s best
Clockwise from left: Patrimonio; Île de Beauté and density, maturing into Biancu Gentile to ask your retailer.
vineyards; Domaine Terraccia spicy, gamy flavors. (bee-AN-cu jen-TIL-e) Carcaghjullu (more
One of the many grapes simply spelled Carcajolo)
Sciacarellu rescued from near oblivion, Nero, Aleatico, Minustello
ABOVE: CLAUDE CRUELLS (2) RIGHT: JC ATTARD, CLAUDE CRUELLS
(shack-a-REL-lu) this is native to Corsica and and Barbarossa are among

Niellucciu is often has been revived since the the reds. Codivarta,
blended with Sciacarellu, 1990s. It’s almost exclusively Biancone and Genovese
Niellucciu and Sciacarellu grapes for reds, which has connections used in blends, where it for the whites. Corsica
and from Vermentinu and Biancu Gentile to another Tuscan grape, helps present powerful recognizes the importance
for whites. The names are unfamiliar, Mammolo. But even more wines, rich in aromas and to preserve these varieties
and even if the origin of some is known than Niellucciu, Sciacarellu tropical fruit flavors. and others. Two nurseries,
(Niellucciu from Tuscan Sangiovese, for has become acclimatized to one run by the vignerons
example), their transformation into totally its island home. It produces Muscat Blanc à and the other privately
Corsican wine is complete. wines that, while pale in col- Petits Grains owned by Antoine Abbatucci
And that’s just the beginning. There or, can have high alcohol and (musk-CAT blahnk ah of Domaine Comte
are still many more Corsican grapes to be red fruit flavors. Sciacarellu puh-tee grahn) Abbatucci, are growing them
explored and blended into the great wines is also in many rosés. Originating in the South of as experiments.
of the future. France, it’s in the appellation
WINEMAG.COM | 49
Learn the
Appellations
Ajaccio
Believed to be the birthplace of
Sciacarellu (and 250 years ago, the
birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte),
this 600-acre appellation is inland
from Corsica’s capital, Ajaccio. It makes
light red, black-currant flavored wines
and textured, flinty whites as well as
fresh, fruity rosés.
Corse
There are two types of Corse appella-
tions. One, which stretches down the
island’s east coast, is Corse, pure and
simple. Its 3,200 acres are planted on
the only flat land on the island. You
can find reds, white and rosés, of which
the reds are by far the most exciting.
Many are imported. The other appella-
tions with Corse in their names, dotted
around the island, have local places
attached: Corse Calvi, Corse Sartène,
Corse Porto-Vecchio, Corse Figari, Corse
Coteaux du Cap Corse and the famed
sweet Corse Muscat du Cap Corse.
Île de Beauté
This is the wonderfully named Protect-
ed Geographical Indication (PGI) for
Corsica, which accounts for two-thirds
of the island’s production. It’s suited
to the single-variety wines that use
familiar French grapes: Chardonnay,
Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot. Most of these wines are un-
distinguished. Occasionally, an unusual
blend of local varieties will come under
this category. Some are imported.
Patrimonio
Dense reds, aromatic white and rich
rosés. Niellucciu-based reds and rosés
and Vermentinu-based whites come
from 1,200 acres, almost all organic, on
the northern tip of the island.
A History Told Through Grapes
Super Surprise Marc Imbert, second-generation owner of the 40 or so of the ancient varieties, now
Find labels from local producers that organic Domaine de Torraccia in the east of being trialed, to survive.
say Vin de France. These are wines the island, calls Corsica a “Jurassic Park” of The Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans
made outside the appellation rules. grapes. Varieties survived, clung on and are introduced viticulture to the island. The wine
CLAUDE CRUELLS
This category is where some of the now coming back to life. business thrived, more or less, depending on
most exciting new and indigenous Because of its isolation, Corsica did not the politics of the moment. For years, control
wines fit, the equivalent of Super suffer as much as mainland Europe did from shifted between the Italian city states of Pisa
Tuscans, with bottlings to watch. the phylloxera disease. That helped some of and Genoa.

Clockwise from left: Torraccia in springtime; Clos Capitoro vineyards in
Ajaccio; Domaine Yves Leccia; Clos Poggiale
COURTESY DOMAINE YVES LECCIA (CENTER RIGHT)
Genoa lacked space and needed Corsica seems that the Italian influence is the one winemaking, allied to a belief in a strong
to grow food and wine. The island remained that produces the island’s greatest wines and Corsican identity.
RIGHT: CLAUDE CRUELLS(2),
Genoese until the 18th century, when it assures its future. “We have the capacity to That’s the future for what has been
became part of France. That occurred just in produce great wines.” described by the French appellation over-
time for Napoleon Bonaparte to be born on A solid foundation was laid in the 1960s seer INAO, the Institut National d’Origine
the island as a French citizen. and has truly solidified since the 1990s, as et de la Qualité, as “the land of legends and
“Yes, we are French, but the Italian influ- producers return to roots, to origins. There’s magic.” The legends are there, the magic is
ence is so important,” says Venturi. And it experimentation in the vineyards and in happening now.
WINEMAG.COM | 51
INDING
W
PA
E
TH OF W I
TH
NE
CURES
Before “clean”
bottlings, there were
millennia of health
uses for wine. We
take a look back at
what they were and
how they came to be.
B Y M E K I TA R I V A S
As the Black Death, also known as the Black Plague, ravaged

Europe and Asia in the mid-1300s, people became increasingly desperate for any
iota of respite. Some tried blood-letting. Others opted for rubbing onions—or, in
some cases, a chopped snake—directly onto their infected boils.
If that wasn’t quite doing the trick, a plague-stricken individual could
always try drinking a wine-based curative, according to Pat McGovern, scien-
tific director of the Biomolecular Archaeology Project at Penn Museum in Phila-
LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK; RIGHT: BRIDGEMAN IMAGES

delphia. McGovern has written two books on the archeological history of wine,
Ancient Wine: The Search for the Origins of Viniculture (Princeton University
Press, 2019) and Uncorking the Past: The Quest for Wine, Beer, and Other Alco-
holic Beverages (University of California Press, 2019).
“There’s one [recipe] that was put together by a king of Pontus in Turkey
named Mithridates,” says McGovern. “There’s 73 ingredients that go into it.”
To make this particular concoction, someone would need “flesh of vipers,”
wine, opium, rhubarb, black pepper, cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, among other
herbs and spices. Purportedly, this mixture would relieve symptoms like stomach
weakness, difficulty breathing and perhaps even the plague itself.

A botanical illustration
by Walther Muller from
Hermann Adolph Koehler’s
Medicinal Plants
“So, it was very important in the Middle Ages until it was
finally shown to be not necessarily so effective,” says McGovern. Back to Ancient Times
In 1348, the Report of the Paris Medical Faculty recom- “[In] Ancient Egypt, we have papyri that talk about medical
mended “mixtures of wine and some water” that included treatments,” says McGovern. “In Mesopotamia, we have records.
ground peppers, cinnamon and other spices. The difference In China, we have records.”
was that you needed to use For residents of
a clear white wine. ancient Greece and Rome,
“White wines are some- “It’s an analgesic. It’s antimicrobial, so wine was basically “used
times preferred, because to cure everything,” says
they seemed to be easier you treat all your wounds with wine… The McGovern.
to digest,” McGovern said.
“This is what was called the
tannins and so on in wine set up a perfect “It was an antiseptic,”
“It’s an analgesic. It’s
Great Treacle, treacle being environment for healing wounds.” antimicrobial, so you
when you take sugar and treat all your wounds with
make molasses out of it. But —Pat McGovern wine. And it turns out
they also use that term for that is actually the best
this wine mixture against way to do it. Alcohol is a
the plague.” disinfectant, but it is even
It didn’t seem to work beyond that: The tannins
too well, though, because and so on in wine set up
500,000 people died in a perfect environment for
Venice alone, and a fourth of healing wounds.”
Europe—nearly 20 million For millennia, wine
people—was killed. was central to all the area
People’s desperation pharmacopoeias. Physi-
stemmed not only from the cians, more often than
agony of the disease but not, would prescribe
also from deeply held spir- one variation of wine or
itual beliefs. Some were another.
convinced the plague was “Sometimes it’s just
a punishment from God. the wine,” says McGovern.
Groups of flagellants would “Sometimes there’s an
travel between towns whip- herb put in, or multiple
ping themselves as a form of herbs, that are put in to
public penance. try to affect a cure against
“You have something poisons, against all kinds
like the Middle Ages where of mental diseases. It just
there’s a lot of supersti- goes on and on.”
tion that comes in,” says Short of curing illness,
McGovern. “If you touch the Roman writer Pliny
the piece of wood from the the Elder suggested using
cross, supposedly it will heal wine to sweeten one’s
you. [It was] the same way breath, sort of like an
with some of the concoc- ancient mouthwash.
tions. The plague remedies “It helps against
could be very fanciful and decay,” says McGovern.
also quite superstitious.” “I mean, it does to some
That’s not to say that degree, because it’s got
wine cures throughout the antimicrobial prop- LEFT AND RIGHT: BRIDGEMAN IMAGES
From a
history have been all hocus erties. So, it’s like every-
Medieval
pocus. Wine has been health thing. Before you had
produced for thousands of years, dating back to the Neolithic handbook, an synthetic medicines, what would you do? Well, this was the
illustration of
period. And no matter which part of the globe is in question, cure-all for humanity.”
red wine
the civilizations of the era likely made some curative claims And it didn’t have to be just grape wine. It could be beer. It
about wine. could be mead. It seems that any liquid with alcohol in it was
fair game.

“It really is just part and parcel of the physicians, starting of a proper recommendation, and moderation is still key. You can
with Hippocrates going all the way for 2,500 years up to the 19th also find those nutrients in unfermented berries and grapes.”
century,” says McGovern. Even if the health benefits aren’t so black and white, that
might not even be the point in the first place.
The Modern Era “It maybe took away a little bit of the snob factor, like it made
As Prohibition approached, all these wine recipes that had been sense—you had people in the Mediterranean: They drank [wine],
prescribed for hundreds, if not thousands, of years gradually and they were healthier than us, so it’s part of a healthy lifestyle,”
became more and more diluted. More people embraced the purity says Wilson. “It took it away from being kind of this rarefied
culture that the movement represented, and they began to see thing. That was the way people thought. It was hand in hand with
wine’s ubiquity as something that needed to be reined in. people beginning to cook a lot with olive oil—all sorts of things
“The negative aspects were brought out much more starting that were before then not really mainstream.”
with Prohibition, even in the 19th century,” says McGovern. People liked the idea of being healthy perhaps more than
“The ultimate upshot of this is that wine was sort of pushed out actually being healthy. And that’s a phenomenon that appears
totally. Maybe you could use Sherry—those carried on pretty well to be on the rise yet again, as wines are increasingly marketed as
in the United States, which had more of a Prohibitionist move- “clean” and “pure.”
ment. Sherry stayed From buzzy celeb-
in the formularies for rity-branded labels
some time until it was to wine subscrip-
finally discarded, too.” tions billed as “clean
In the late 20th crafted,” cleanliness and
century, as wine purity have become the
drinking experienced markers of the moment
a cultural boom, the within the wine world.
French paradox came Wilson describes it as
into play. This was “magical thinking.”
the name given to “I don’t know if it’s
the seemingly coun- an American thing or
terintuitive fact that a human thing,” he
French people, on says. “People just want
average, had a low rate a healthier alcoholic
of heart disease despite beverage. They want
consuming a diet rich alcohol to be healthy—
in cholesterol and satu- healthier than it is. So
rated fats. It convinced I think people twist
an entire generation themselves into knots
that drinking wine and to come up with ways
following a Mediterra- [to say], ‘Oh, well, this
nean diet was akin to alcoholic beverage is
unlocking the fountain Pharmacy jars healthier than this
of youth. for camphor other one.’ ”
“Because it was supposed to be healthy, like drink two glasses and “spirit of From a nutritional perspective, Coogan stands somewhere in
wine”
of wine at night and it’ll be better for your heart,” says Jason the middle. She isn’t quite convinced that the buzzwords can
Wilson, author of Godforsaken Grapes: A Slightly Tipsy Journey be taken seriously, but she’s empathetic toward people who are
Through the World of Strange, Obscure, and Underappreci- seeking an alternative approach to wine consumption.
ated Wine (Abrams, 2018). “I know people who literally started “I love the attempt to make a healthier version, while I’m
drinking wine because of this.” somewhat skeptical as to what the motivation might be,”
But like the plague remedies that were peddled some 650 Coogan said. “Oftentimes these are just marketing ploys, but
years prior, the French paradox may not have been backed by if its message is to promote achieving health and living a more
exact science. healthful lifestyle, then at least from a mental perspective, it
“No research has proved a cause-and-effect link between could have a positive impact on someone who is truly trying to
drinking alcohol and better heart health,” says Samantha Coogan, do the right things, but still wants to indulge.”
director of the didactic program in nutrition and dietetics at the As for McGovern, he sees it as somewhat of a full circle
University of Nevada, Las Vegas, and president of the Nevada moment for wine, even if it’s shrouded in sleek marketing speak.
Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics. “While there are some “This is something that can be healthful,” McGovern said. “I
potential heart-promoting benefits to the tannins, flavonoids and see that as a positive sign. This is something that has been with
antioxidants in wine itself, the jury is still somewhat out in terms us right from the beginning.”
WINEMAG.COM | 55
These four historic Greek varieties
have withstood the ages.
B Y S U SA N KO ST RZ E WA
P H OTO S B Y AS H TO N W O RT H I N GTO N
In Greece, wine is deeply woven into the fabric of everyday society and
is a central component of cultural history.
The country is one of the world’s most ancient viticultural loca-
tions. References to consumption and cultivation appear in literature
and historical texts as early as the 17th century B.C. Indigenous wine varieties once
favored by Hesiod and Aristotle are still produced today.
“Wine has played a central role in everyday Greek life for more than 4,000 years,”
says Dr. Haroula Spinthiropoulou, a historian, viticulturist and wine producer. She says
evidence of a bustling wine culture and trade on islands like Crete and Santorini, and
in the mainland Peloponnese region, traces to the 2nd millennium B.C.
In addition to serving religious and medicinal purposes in ancient times, wine was
central to “intellectual gatherings called ‘symposia,’ where they would eat and talk
while drinking wine, with Greek sommelier, or oenochooi, serving them,” says Spinthi-
ropoulou. “The nutritional value of wine was well known by [them], and it became a
dominant part of their diet as well as their philosophy of life.”
Social and political upheaval of subsequent Roman, Byzantine and Turkish occupa-
tions impeded and sometimes suspended commercial production of Greece’s legendary
ancient varieties. Yet, local production and demand for the one-of-a-kind wines
endured throughout the ages.
Today, Greece’s oldest varieties have found a growing audience on the international
PROP STYLING BY MEGUMI EMOTO
market, thanks to passionate sommeliers and wine historians, and an increasing number
of progressive Greek vintners committed to protecting and perfecting these liquid relics.
Among Greece’s more than 300 indigenous grapes, several are millennia old. Assyr-
tiko, Limnio, Robola and Liatiko are four that draw particular attention for their world-
class quality, with traditional and modern styles that align with 21st-century palates.
Let’s discover this fascinating taste of the past.

92 Skouras 2019 Wild
Ferment Assyrtiko
(Peloponnese); $18. Editors’
Choice.
92 Greek Wine Cellars Flow-

ers 2019 Assyrtiko (San-
torini); $27.
WINEMAG.COM | 57
Assyrtiko
The smoky, salty and cellar-worthy white wine borne of Santorini’s moonscape-like
volcanic vineyards dates back more than 3,500 years. Grown in sandy, nutrient-poor soils
resistant to the phylloxera pest that decimated vineyards across the world, Santorini was
left untouched. This enabled the development of hearty vineyards, some of which are more
than 150 years old. In fact, the island boasts some the few self-rooted vines left in Europe.
Producers here still practice traditional techniques like the kouloura, in which plants
are pruned into a low basket around the grapes, which protects them from the island’s
strong winds, hot sun and blowing sand. The practice also limits the vines’ need for water.
The result is startling for first-time visitors unused to the wild and sparse appearance of
these coveted plots.
Other evidence of historic viticulture, like the dry stone and petrified lava walls built
to slow erosion by the island’s relentless winds, still stand. They connect the island’s
booming modern wine culture to its long and storied past.
Despite its rich history on the island, Assyrtiko’s profile is hotter than it has been in
centuries, in large part due to its singular, terroir-driven identity.
“Assyrtiko is a unique variety with a very distinctive character, very well adjusted to
the harsh climate of the Cyclades,” says Spinthiropoulou. “It has a high acidity and is rich
in phenolic compounds, two elements which in Santorini’s environment give birth to a
distinctive aromatic character combined with very good structure.”
This flinty, full-bodied expression of Santorini may be the closest in style to its ancient
expression, but the grape has also proven successful elsewhere. Increasingly, it’s being
planted in Attica, northern Greece, the Peloponnese and on Crete. It’s also now cultivated
in countries including Australia, Italy and South Africa.
In these more nutrient-rich soils and under less traumatic conditions, Assyrtiko displays
a softer, fruitier character that appeals to a broad range of palates. However, it maintains a
hallmark acidity and minerality that sets it apart from other international wines.
“It’s a variety that has shown it can be cultivated in different climates and soils, and
while some regions give better characteristics than others, it’s difficult to find a bad
Assyrtiko,” says Vagelis Gavalas, the fifth-generation winemaker of Santorini’s Gavalas
Winery. “We think it can be the flagship for the white wines of Greece.”
Focusing on single expressions of the grape, the 300-year-old winery produces
unoaked, oaked and wild-ferment bottlings, and its next project is a bottling produced
from 150-year-old vines.
Elsewhere on the island, producers like Sigalas, Gai’a, Argyros, Vassaltis and Hatzi-
dakis have contributed to the grape’s global success. Micro-terroir bottlings, experiments
in underwater aging and library tastings reveal its potential as one of the world’s great
ageable white wines.
The variety has long been used for Vinsanto, the sun-dried dessert wine made from
Santorini white grapes (including, by law, 51% Assyrtiko) with origins in the 12th century.
While no relation to Tuscan Vin Santo, the wine was named “Vino di Santo” by Vene-
tians who controlled Mediterranean trade routes during the Byzantine era. It was later
famed in 18th-century Russia for its appealing flavors of warming spices and vibrant fruit.
Today, elegant styles from producers like Argyros, Gai’a and others have kept it attuned
to modern palates.
Gavalas makes a Vinsanto, in which Assyrtiko is blended with smaller amounts of
native varieties Aidani and Athiri.
Assyrtiko has also shown its adaptability in sparkling wines by producers like Santori-
ni’s Santo Wines, and in a lively retsina made by Kechris Winery in Thessaloniki.
“The global wine market is now very open to unique, rare wines,” says Gavalas. “We
are talking about a white wine with characteristics that are difficult to be found in many 91 Alexakis 2019
Assyrtiko
(Crete); $17.
wines. It’s in our hands to keep evolving the high standard of this variety.”
Spinthiropoulou agrees. “Indigenous, native varieties can be a challenge to consumers
with other Greek wines,” she says. “Assyrtiko seems to be our passport to the interna-
tional market.”

90 Domaine
Papagianna-
kos 2019 Assyrtiko
(Attica); $22.
92 Wine Art
Estate 2019
Plano Assyrtiko
90 Gavalas 2019

Dry Assyrtiko
(Santorini); $34.
(Drama); $25.
WINEMAG.COM | 59
Limnio
This red wine used by Homer’s Odysseus to inebriate the Cyclops Polyphoum
remains one of Greece’s oldest on record. Hailing from the Aegean island of
Lemnos, it was a major player in the sweet wine craze that dominated ancient
Greece. Today, it’s produced both in elegant, dry, single-variety bottlings and
blends, mainly in the northern Greek mainland regions of Macedonia and Thrace.
Limnio is typified by moderate, silky tannins, good acidity, a pronounced
mineral nose and flavors of crushed herbs and bright red berries. Its full-bodied
yet focused character has “more than a little in common with Barolo,” says
George Salpindigis, viticultural director at Tsantali Vineyards & Wineries.
Experimentation in small plots with the variety started as early as 1975, but
the winery began to actively replant Limnio vines on Mount Athos in north-
western Greece in 2002. Tsantali now blends it with varieties like Agiorgitiko,
Cabernet and Grenache in its Abaton and Kormilitsa bottlings. Limnio adds
finesse and brightness to the layered reds.
Though relatively rare, varietal bottlings by producers like Vourvoukeli
Estate in Thrace and Garalis (on Lemnos) highlight Limnio’s naturally vibrant
palate and high acidity. Both stainless steel- and oak-aged expressions offer an
intriguing alternative for fans of deep-flavored reds.
Whatever its expression, Salpindigis suggests that Limnio be added to the
91 Lyrarakis
2018 Aggelis
Liatiko (Crete); $24.
cellar of any serious and intrepid collector. “It’s an extremely fine variety with
fabulous potential to make great, ageworthy wines,” he says.
Robola
Fresh, citrusy and lightly aromatic, this white grape originates from the Ionian
island of Cephalonia and is believed to date to at least the 12th century. Though
the variety is now grown on other islands in the Ionian chain, its main produc-
tion is still on Cephalonia. It’s protected under the Robola of Cephalonia Protected
Designation of Origin (PDO) designation.
Robola’s best expression comes from the exact environment found on Cepha-
lonia: high-altitude, barren mountain sites with limestone-rich soils. This terroir
yields the high acidity, citrus fruits and smoky minerality that distinguishes
Robola and invites comparisons to Chablis.
Producing Robola is not for the faint-hearted, a factor that contributes to its
rarity. The grape’s tendency toward oxidation requires deft handling by experi-
enced winemakers, and in locations like Mount Ainos, vineyards are planted on
slopes that necessitate hand harvesting. In fact, the appearance of these vines
rising out of the chunky limestone scree inspired the occupying 16th-century
Venetians to dub the wine “Vino di Sasso,” or wine of stone.
Gentilini Winery is the island’s premier Robola producer. The Gentilini family
has centuries-old ties to the island, but its winemaking history began in the 1970s,
when Spiro-Nicholas Kosmetatos planted his first vineyard.
Today, Gentilini produces three distinctive varietal expressions: a wild yeast
bottling, a superpremium high-altitude bottling and a classic stainless-steel
style. Spiro-Nicholas’ daughter, Marianna Kosmetatos, owns the winery with her
husband, Petros. She says all three bottlings reflect the original terroir of the island. 90 Gerovassiliou
2013 Avaton
(Epanomi); $48.
“Robola has characteristics completely unique to the appellation on Cepha-
lonia, including balanced acidity, minerality and citrus fruit,” she says. “We exper-
iment [with it] constantly, [because it] has so much potential.”
Kosmetatos says that limited acreage and a reluctance by younger vintners to
farm the existing tricky parcels pose obstacles for the category. Yet, she has no
doubt the demand will be there, if people just give the wine a try.
“It has the potential to give super premium wines of great complexity and lon-
gevity,” she says, “If more wineries/growers follow…suit, the future of Robola
is bright.”

89 Tsantali
2014
Agiorgitiko Abaton
Gold Selection
(Mount Athos); $35.
Liatiko
A visit to Crete is an immersion in
the ancient wine world. Vestiges of
the island’s 4,000 years of viticul-
ture seem to be found everywhere,
whether you tour the ruins of Minoan
wine presses or view millennia-old
frescoes that depict everyday wine
90 Sclavos 2019 Di
Sasso (Cepha-
lonia); $28.
enjoyment. You may also stumble over
the stones of antique amphorae half-
submerged in vineyard soil.
Liatiko’s connection to Crete
dates to the 2nd or 3rd century B.C.
The variety is mentioned throughout
the island’s history, including in
13th-century texts (referencing the
famous sun-dried Malvasia sweet
wine of the time, in which Liatiko
was included) and in 16th-century
vineyard purchase documents.
Centuries-old Liatiko vineyards
are found across Crete, but there
are only a handful of producers that
still make the variety. Among them
are Lyrarakis Winery, Diamantakis,
Economou and Douloufakis.
Lyrarakis has been experimenting
with Liatiko in various local sites,
from old vines in Sitia to high-
altitude vineyards in Amari, near
Rethymno. In addition to its varietal
Aggelis Liatiko, Lyrarakis produces
a Liatiko rosé that showcases the
89 Douloufakis
2018 Dafnios;
(Dafnes); $17.
grape’s brighter character.
The wine offers delicately spicy,
rich red-berry flavors with soft
tannins and moderate acidity. Though
often blended with Crete’s Mandalaria
and Kotsifali varieties, the grape’s
varietal expression can beautifully
exhibit its signature intense floral
aromas and warming-spice character.
“The timing is right to show-
92 Gentilini 2019
Wild Paths Ro-
bola (Cephalonia); $43.
case the variety’s strengths,” says
Bart Lyrarakis, owner of Lyrarakis.
He strives for a lighter, more delicate
expression of Liatiko. “Consumer
taste all over the world has been
turning more and more to this kind of
wine. It is here to stay.”
WINEMAG.COM | 61
BY
CHRISTINA
PICKARD
Its isolation is what makes Tasmania so special. The rugged island state, roughly the size of Ohio and 150 miles
off the southeast coast of Australia, is a food and wine lover’s paradise.
In fact, wine is the jewel in Tasmania’s crown. Australia’s coolest-climate winegrowing region, Tassie can produce precise,
complex traditional-method bubbly; slinky, sappy Pinot Noir; exuberant, saline Chardonnay; and fleshy yet delicate Riesling.
For more than four decades, the island has attracted investment from large-scale wine businesses around the globe, as well
as an increasing number of small, quality-focused grower-winemakers.
In recent years, with climate change at the doorstep of Australia’s mainland regions, interest in Tas has exploded. Twenty
years ago, 1,255 acres were planted to vines; that figure has soared to 5,189 acres planted today. Growth on a small island
comes with challenges, but one thing is certain: Tasmanian wine has never been better.

Far-off Tasmania’s chilly maritime climes are only
part of its story. Dive into the past, present and
future of this captivating region.
COURTESY OF MEWSTONE WINES
Mewstone Wines
WINEMAG.COM | 63
The Early Pioneers
Aboriginal people in Tasmania have made fermented beverages since
precolonial times. They used sap from Eucalyptus gunnii trees in the
Central Highlands to to create a drink called way-a-linah, which has a
flavor akin to cider. But wine grapes weren’t planted on the island until
European colonists arrived.
In 1788, William Bligh planted some cuttings on Bruny Island, only
to find them dead four years later. More attempts were made in the
LEFT TO RIGHT: LAWRENCE FURZEY/JANSZ; COURTESY OF STEFANO LUBIANA

early to mid-1800s, and many cuttings from those early Tasmanian
vineyards ended up in South Australia and Victoria, where they helped
build successful industries.
But wine grown and made on the island itself wouldn’t take off for
another century, when two men, unbeknownst to one another, ignored
the predominant view that Tasmania was too cold for vine growing and
kickstarted its modern wine industry.
The first was a Frenchman, Jean Miguet. In 1956, he planted Pinot
Noir, Chardonnay, Chasselas and Grenache near Launceston in the
northern part of the island at Providence Vineyard.
The second, Claudio Alcorso, an Italian, planted Riesling near the
state’s capital city, Hobart, in the southeast in 1958. He retained the
land’s Aboriginal name, “Moorilla.”
Both vineyards still produce today. Moorilla Estate now houses the
Willy Wonka-esque Museum of Old and New Art (MONA), which draws
N millions of tourists and has almost single-handedly revitalized Hobart.

From left: A Jansz
vineyard; Stefano
Lubiana, Stefano
Lubiana Wines;
Andrew Pirie, Pipers
Brook Vineyard;
barrel room at Pipers
Brook Vineyard
It boasts some of the state’s most celebrated vines and wines. half. Unlike many mainland wine regions, Tasmania’s cool climes are
Emboldened by those successes, the latter half of the 20th century due to its latitude, not altitude. Even though the three oceans and
saw a string of pioneers take Tasmanian wine to the next level. Bass Strait that surround the island moderate its climate, it remains
Graham Wiltshire’s 1966 Heemskerk vineyard plantings led him 20 variable. Growers can struggle with frosts in the winter and wildfires
years later to cofound one of the island’s best known sparkling brands, during summer.
Jansz, with Champagne house Louis Roederer. Today, Jansz is owned by Viticulture areas are drier than one would expect from this compara-
Yalumba’s Hill-Smith family, who purchased the winery in 1997. tively lush place, so much so that a sophisticated irrigation system runs
LEFT TO RIGHT: ADAM GIBSON; AMANDA DAVENPORT/PIPER’S BROOK VINEYARD
Another pioneer, Andrew Pirie, developed Pipers Brook Vineyard in across the whole state. The growing season is long and labor intensive,
1974, now owned by European wine group Kreglinger Wine Estates. It and it produces low fruit yields. Add to this the high cost of production
helped put Tassie wine on the map. brought by Tasmania’s isolation, and most producers focus firmly on
Pirie, Australia’s first Ph.D in viticulture, is one of Tasmania’s most quality over quantity.
knowledgeable growers and sparkling producers. Pirie’s “retirement “We often, only half-jokingly, say that Tasmania is not the place
project,” as he calls his current label, Apogee, is a love letter to the you come to make a quick buck,” says Sheralee Davies, CEO of the
pocket of northeastern Tasmania he knows best. trade group Wine Tasmania. “If your goal is to make value wines of
“I came into this area without fully understanding [it] like I do now,” large volumes, it would be easier, more reliable and cheaper in other
says Pirie. “We planted close plantings, but didn’t have limestone. Close Australian wine regions.”
planting doesn’t work here because the soils are too vigorous.” While it has no official “geographical indication” (GI) status, Tasma-
nia’s wine zones are divided into seven subregions, delineated more by
Quality Over Quantity rainfall levels and humidity than temperature or even soil composition.
Tasmania may not have limestone, but its soils vary vastly, from ancient The northern subregions of North West, Tamar Valley and Pipers River,
sandstones and mudstones to river sediments and igneous volcanic rock. known as the heartbeat of sparkling wine production, are wetter and
This variety is due to the dolerite-capped mountains which run along more humid than the East Coast, Coal River and Derwent Valley. The
the island’s western side and provide rain and wind shelter to the east. latter two regions, just outside Hobart, are known for stellar Pinot Noir,
Subsequently, vineyards are planted solely on Tasmania’s eastern Chardonnay, Riesling and even some Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.
WINEMAG.COM | 65
Driest of all, the pastoral Huon Valley, in the far south, is an emerging “[Our lengthy lees aging] is relatively unique with Australian spar-
region full of promise. kling wine brands,” says Carr. It ranges from four to 10 years, which
results in extraordinarily multifaceted fizz.
The Next Wave “Tasmanian bubbles are top three in the world in my spar-
While a large number of Tassie wines are made by a single contract kling opinion,” says wine writer Curly Haslam Coates, who moved to
LEFT TO RIGHT: COURTESY OF BREAM CREEK VINEYARDS; ADRIAN LANDER/HOUSE OF ARRAS

winemaking facility, an expanding number of creative grower- Tasmania 10 years ago from England and founded educational events
winemakers have contributed to the island’s diversity. company Vintage Tasmania. “Bubbles are what drew me here. Every
Among the most longstanding and innovative of them is Stefano year I’ve been here, they just get better and better.”
Lubiana, a fifth-generation winemaker who left his family’s large winery But Tassie isn’t just sparkling wine territory. Still wines play an
and distillery in South Australia for Derwent Valley. important role, too.
“I decided I didn’t want to make thousands of tons of bulk wines,” he Riesling thrives on the island. One of its greatest cheerleaders,
says. “I looked all around Australia and thought that Tasmania was the Pooley Wines, is Tasmania’s lone third-generation winery. The late
obvious place if you want to make fine sparkling wine. That was back in Margaret and Denis Pooley planted Riesling in the Coal River Valley in
1989. We were the first winery from the mainland to come down here 1985. Margaret spent her life amongst the vines.
to do sparkling.” “[She] had a passion for Riesling,” says John Pooley. “At 95, she was
Today, Tasmania’s only certified biodynamic winery offers a vibrant, probably the oldest [vigneron] in Australia.”
cellarworthy Pinot Noir with no added sulfur; an amphorae-aged amber John’s son, Matthew, is the viticulturist at Pooley, and his daughter,
wine from Malvasia Istriana (a tribute to Lubiana’s Istrian roots) that Anna, is the winemaker. From its heritage-listed Georgian winery, Anna
exudes wild fennel, kumquat, salt and honey; and a range of laser- crafts delicate, mineral-driven Riesling that’s gorgeous both in its youth
focused sparkling wines with extended time on lees. and with age, in addition to sumptuous Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, an
In 1995, Lubiana was followed by another firm believer in long lees ethereal skin-contact Gewürztraminer and a spicy, nervy Syrah.
time, Ed Carr, at the helm of House of Arras, owned by the Carlyle Just three miles from Pooley, Tolpuddle is a more recent addition, but
Group/Accolade Wines. Much of its fruit is bought from growers around it has emerged as one of Australia’s most prized single vineyards.
the island, but the operation is hailed frequently as one of the world’s Planted in 1988, the property received a new lease on life when
greatest sparkling producers. Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith, MW, of Shaw & Smith winery

From left: Bream
Creek Vineyard;
vineyards at House of
Arras; Ed Carr, House
of Arras; Stoney Rise
Six Tassie in South Australia’s Adelaide Hills, purchased it in 2011. “One of the big changes is that the picking has now
Wines to The meticulously farmed vineyard produces pristine, long- become really compressed,” he says. “Rainfall since 1990
Try lived Chardonnay and Pinot that nod vigorously toward has dropped by 21% at Bream Creek. That is massive.
Burgundy, yet with a distinctly Tassie beat. There’s a warmth in our sea breeze that we haven’t seen
94 Clover Hill

2014 Vintage
Brut (Tasmania); $40,
Other beautiful wines can be found around the state
from Josef Chromy, Delamere, Dalrymple, Stargazer, Stoney
before.”
As large, out-of-state wine companies snap up hundreds
Editors’ Choice. Rise, Glaetzer-Dixon and Sinapius, to name a few. However, of acres, Tasmania’s artisanal reputation could come under
the Huon Valley has emerged as a hotbed of talent. threat. So could the island’s limited natural resources.
94 Tolpuddle
2018 Chardon-
nay (Tasmania); $64.
Nestled in the rolling hills above the Huon River
or perched at the edge the D’Entrecasteaux Channel,
“Much of the contribution from the arriving companies
has been positive because they bring professional training
producers like Chatto Wines, Mewstone and Sailor Seeks and skills,” says Pirie. “Not all of it is going to be positive.
93 Sailor Seeks
Horse 2018
Pinot Noir (Tasmania);
Horse make elegant, saline, acid-driven Chardonnay and
supple-yet-structured Pinot Noir from vineyards at the
We’ve got some signs of opportunists coming along and
looking to make cheap wine… That’s happened more than
LEFT TO RIGHT: COURTESY OF ED CARR; NAT MENDHAM
$45, Editors’ Choice. edge of where viticulture is possible. once with mainland firms. Occasionally, they arrive with
“We believe greatness lies at the [cusp] of ripeness, and their mainland viticulturists. We do the learning and then
93 Stargazer 2019
Coal River
Valley Single Vineyard
the Huon balances on that edge,” says Paul Lipscombe, who
founded Sailor Seeks Horse with his partner, Gilli, in 2010.
people just turn their back on it. So let’s say it’s a mixed
bag, but mostly positive.”
Riesling (Tasmania); For the most part, the focus on sustainability and
$46. The Future quality remains strong. And Tasmanians seem thrilled to
The Huon and Tasmania won’t be at viticulture’s fringes be in the spotlight.
93 Tamar Ridge
2018 Pinot Noir
(Tasmania); $30.
forever, though. The region’s unique landscape is fragile, “Everyone wants to move to Tasmania,” says Louise
and climate change is a real concern. Radman, director of Hobart wine bar and kitchen Institut
Fred Peacock, whose Bream Creek Vineyard was the Polaire, and co-owner at Domaine Simha. “It’s like the last
92 Jansz 2015
Vintage Rosé
(Tasmania); $56.
first established on the East Coast, is one of Tasmania’s frontier. The vineyards that are being planted are going to
longstanding viticulturists. He sees it up close. be world famous.”
WINEMAG.COM | 67
JAPANESE
WHISKY’S
NEW
WAVE
Years after a quick rise to popularity made these
premium pours hard to find, the industry has
regrouped and grown.
J apanese whisky ascended quickly, like a firework, and it exploded across the highest tiers,
racking up awards and accolades. Cocktail bars and collectors couldn’t get enough of it.
The last time Wine Enthusiast ran a feature-length article on the category, in 2016, signs
were there that its popularity caught producers off guard. Bottles faded into the hands of buyers.
Today, they’re back. The landscape has changed, and stocks haven’t completely replen-
ished, but new bottlings have started to appear.
For instance, stalwart Nikka Whisky released several new bottlings in 2020: Nikka Days (at right),
plus a pair of limited-edition single malts and a new Taketsuru blended malt.
“With great demand, many suppliers saw a strain on their supply,” says Emiko Kaji, the interna-
tional business development manager for Nikka. “We started allocation in 2016 and still keep this
scheme to control the speed of growth and keep quality.”
The U.S. is recognized as an important market, she says, and often is prioritized for new releases.
A number of smaller distilleries have also released new bottles. These include Chichibu (a k a the
Pappy Van Winkle of Japanese whisky), Mars Shinsu and Hotazaki.
“Japanese people like to consider the smallest details,” says Koki Takehira, the new distiller for
Mars. He makes an “American-inspired” Iwai whisky that includes corn and is aged in ex-Bourbon
barrels. “As a result of this inquiring mind, we create something new. That is our craftsmanship.”
A fast-growing number of new producers, including Kaiyo, Kanosuke and Akkeshi, fill out shelves.
Of course, not everyone is pleased with this boundary pushing. As a result, on April 1, the Japan
Spirits & Liqueurs Makers Association tightened the definition of Japanese whisky and implemented
new labeling standards so consumers know what they are getting. (For more, visit winemag.com/
JapaneseWhisky) PROP STYLING BY MEGUMI EMOTO
In the meantime, the new wave of Japanese bottlings arrives from all corners. Even whisky giant
Suntory rolled out two new global special releases that included one aged in sakura cherrywood.
Here are four worthy newcomers to sample. As Japanese whisky makes its comeback, it’s exciting
to see the category regain its sparkle.
BY KARA NEWMAN PHOTOS BY ASHTON WORTHINGTON

Light and Bright
Nikka Days ($50; 40% abv)
Nikka founder and “father of Japanese whisky” Masataka
Taketsuru was the descendant of a saké-producing family who
went to Scotland to learn how to make whisky. After returning
to Japan, Taketsuru established the Yoichi Distillery in southern
Hokkaido in 1934. The development of a second distillery,
Miyagikyo, followed in 1969, on the island of Honshu.
Today, most of Nikka’s bottlings combine liquid from both
distilleries. Whisky made at Yoichi is richer, more robust and
often peated. By comparison, Miyagikyo is known for lighter,
more floral malts.
Nikka Days also combines whiskies from both distilleries.
It also includes a measure of imported grain whisky, which
adds light, silky texture, but means this bottling is classified as
“blended whisky” –not Japanese whisky—under new labeling
rules that went into effect April 1. Still, this easy-drinking blend
with hints of honey and juicy stone fruit offers an affordable
Smoky Terroir option for casual sipping or mixing into highballs.
The Akkeshi Single Malt Whisky ($75; 55% abv)
The Akkeshi Distillery opened in 2016 in Hokkaido, not far from Nikka’s Yoichi. Some draw parallels between the islands of Hokkaido and Scotland’s Islay. Both
are cold and rural, which creates a concentrated, dense whisky, and the sea air can provide a similar maritime flavor. But Akkeshi takes the concept a step further.
“They’re using locally grown peat, which is kind of unheard of,” says Kris Elliott of High Road Spirits, which imports Akkeshi and other brands to the U.S.
“They’re trying to make an Islay-style whisky in Japan.”
The end result is a lightly peated whisky with toasty almond, espresso and vanilla tones that wind into a pleasantly smoky exhale.
WINEMAG.COM | 69
Ocean Aged
Kaiyo Whisky The Peated ($90; 46% abv)
Launched 10 years ago, Osaka “blending house” Kaiyo sources whisky from various distilleries
around Japan. They have a unique method for aging the whisky. They send it out to sea for
months or years. In Japanese, kaiyo means “ocean.”
The Peated bottling ages in ex-Madeira casks for two years, then a cask made from Japan’s
prized Mizunara oak. That cask spends four years at sea, a process that mellows the spirit. The
final six-year-old spirit drinks like a gently smoky sea breeze anchored by vanilla and coconut.
Cofounder and Master Blender Jeffrey Karlovitch is a veteran of Scotland’s Bunnahabain and
Japan’s Chichibu, among others. When he found a cooper who worked with Mizunara oak, his
journey began.
“I didn’t set out to make Japanese whisky, just the best whiskey in the world,” he says. “The
best just happened to be Japanese whisky.”
WINEMAG.COM | 71
Flat Out
Delicious
Just one dough is all you need to unlock a
world of flatbreads. Here are three recipes
easily prepared using a basic store-bought
or homemade leavened wheat-flour dough,
matched to wines from near and far.
BY
NILS
BERNSTEIN

PHOTOS BY
EVI ABELER
FOOD STYLING BY
BARRETT
WAS H B U R N E
PROP STYLING BY
PA I G E H I C K S
WINEMAG.COM | 73
Flàmmeküeche
Known as flàmmeküeche in Alsace, flammkuchen in
Germany and tarte flambée in France, Chef Gabriel
Kreuther’s version of “pie baked in flames” is extra-
creamy and absolutely irresistible.
Regional Pairing Alternate Pairing

Domaines Schlumberger 2018 Les Domaine Serene 2018 Coeur Blanc
Princes Abbés Pinot Blanc (Alsace) Barrel-Fermented White Wine from
For this flatbread, Kreuther suggests Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills)
Pinot Blanc, a rosy-hued grape grown Boasting rich flavors of stone fruit
in Alsace and Germany, where it’s and caramelized nuts offset by
called Weissburgunder. This bottling tart-apple acidity, this white wine
sings of fresh juicy pear, with enough made from red grapes would be a
textural richness to stand up to the deliciously indulgent pairing with
creamy, smoky topping. the flàmmeküeche.

FLÀMMEKÜECHE
Courtesy Gabriel Kreuther, chef and owner, Gabriel Kreuther, New
York City
4 ounces high-quality Heat oven to 500˚F.

smoked slab bacon (not
presliced)
Blanch bacon for 30
seconds in boiling water,
1 pound store-bought or
homemade pizza dough
then drain and cut into
matchsticks. Set aside.
¼ cup heavy whipping
cream
Roll dough into two 12- to
13-inch rounds, or one 13x18-
1 cup crème fraîche
inch rectangle. Use rolling pin
½ cup fromage blanc or to place dough carefully on
Greek yogurt
parchment-lined pizza stone
¼ teaspoon fresh nutmeg or sheet pan.
½ teaspoon white pepper Use whisk to whip heavy
Salt, to taste cream to soft peaks, then
whisk in crème fraîche,
½ white onion, sliced thin
fromage blanc or yogurt,
nutmeg and pepper. Season
with salt, to taste. Scoop onto
dough and spread almost to
edges. Top with onions and
bacon. Bake for 3–5 minutes,
or until bottom of dough
blisters and crust crisps.
Serve immediately. Makes 1–2
Instagram @gabrielkreuther
flatbreads.
WINEMAG.COM | 75
Lahmacun
An iconic flatbread popular in Armenia, Syria, Turkey and other Middle
Eastern countries, this is rolled extra-thin and cooked quickly so the meat
stays moist. At Mediterranean-Turkish restaurant Leyla in New York City, it’s
served with a salad of sumac-spiced onions, ideally to be eaten wrapped up
in the lahmacun.
Regional Pairing Alternate Pairing

Sevilen 2019 İsabey Sauvignon J. Lohr 2018 Pure Paso Proprietary
Blanc (Aegean) Red (Paso Robles)
“A cold Sauvignon Blanc is a perfect The lamb, tomato and spice in this
companion with a meal of lahmacun,” dish could easily go just as well
says Maya Jovicevic, Leyla’s manager. with a red wine. This bottling has
“This wine’s crisp, refreshing acidity ripe and spicy fruit flavors with an
supports and brings out all the spicy, undercurrent of mint that matches
herbal flavors.” beautifully with the lamb.

LAMB LAHMACUN
Courtesy Leyla, New York City
8 ounces ground lamb Heat oven to 425˚F.

½ cup minced tomatoes, In large bowl, use hands to
drained mix together all ingredients
3 tablespoons minced except dough. Set aside.
shallot Divide dough into four
1 tablespoon minced equal balls. Roll out each as
garlic thin as possible, and transfer
2 tablespoons minced carefully to parchment-lined
green pepper baking sheet. Divide lamb
2 teaspoons minced mixture evenly among crusts,
parsley and spread thinly to edges
1 teaspoon Turkish red of each.
pepper paste (or any red Bake 6–8 minutes, or
chili paste)
until crust is golden brown
1 teaspoon cumin seeds and topping begins to brown.
1 teaspoon fresh-ground Serve hot alongside lemon
black pepper and Sumac-Onion Salad, if
½ teaspoon salt desired. Serves 4.
8 ounces store-bought or
homemade pizza dough *SUMAC-ONION SALAD
Lemon wedges, for serving Slice 1 large red onion very

thin. Soak in ice water for
Sumac-Onion Salad, if
desired* 10 minutes, drain well, and
mix with ¾ cup chopped
parsley, 3 tablespoons fresh-
squeezed lemon juice, 2
tablespoons olive oil and 1
Instagram @leylanycity
tablespoon sumac.
WINEMAG.COM | 77
Khachapuri
In Washington, D.C., Supra is like a temple of Georgian cuisine. The restaurant
serves several types of khachapuri, which is more of a category of breads
that can be topped, filled or stuffed (or all three, depending who you ask)
than it is a specific dish. This version is their most popular. It features a
cheese-stuffed crust as well as a bubbling, melty combination of cheese,
egg and butter. As with the other breads, a store-bought dough would be
fine. However, the chefs at Supra use a soft enriched dough, and recommend
that you make your favorite pizza dough recipe with milk substituted for
water rather than purchasing one that is premade.
Regional Pairing
Baia’s Wine 2019 Tsolikouri
(Imereti)
“Given the cheesy and buttery
Alternate Pairing
goodness of the Ajaruli khachapuri, Domaine Jean Vullien 2019
I would look to an acidic white like a Jacquère (Savoie)
Tsitska or Tsolikouri,” says Jonathan In the Savoie region of the French
Nelms, Supra’s owner. “There’s a Alps, light, crisp and faintly floral
brilliant young pair of sisters—Baia white wines like this one made from
and Gvancsa Abuladze—who make the Jacquère grape are commonly
this and several other wines in matched up with cheese fondue.
western Georgia that retain great It would go equally well with the
acidity in the subtropical climate.” cheesiness of this khachapuri.

AJARULI KHACHAPURI
Courtesy Supra, Washington, D.C.
12 ounces low-moisture
Heat oven to 500˚F.
mozzarella or sulguni
cheese, shredded Mix 6 ounces mozzarella or
sulguni with feta, ricotta and 1
2⁄3 cup crumbled feta
cheese egg yolk. Set aside.
Divide dough in half,
¹⁄3 cup ricotta cheese
roll each into a 6x10-inch
3 egg yolks
rectangle, and place on
2 tablespoons butter, at parchment-lined baking
room temperature
sheets.
1 pound store-bought or Spread cheese mixture
homemade pizza dough
along long edges of each
rectangle, leaving 1–2 inches
dough uncovered at ends. Roll
dough edges up around cheese
to form stuffed crust, and
press to seal. Gather cheese-
free ends of dough and pinch
together to create boat shape.
If necessary, gently stretch
dough to make wide, long oval
in center. Fill centers with
remaining shredded cheese.
Bake until crusts are brown
and cheese is bubbly, about
5–7 minutes.
Remove from oven.
Working quickly, use 2 forks
to blend 1 egg yolk and 1
tablespoon butter into melted
cheese of each khachapuri.
Instagram @supradc
Serve immediately. Serves 4.
WINEMAG.COM | 79
MAY
THIS MONTH
82 NEW YORK
103 CALIFORNIA
104 SOUTH AFRICA
105 CHILE
106 RHÔNE VALLEY
108 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
110 SPIRITS
111 BEER
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BUYINGGUIDE
NEW YORK
93 Fox Run 2019 Silvan Riesling (Seneca Lake).
For full review see page 89. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.4% Price: $20
93 Hermann J. Wiemer 2019 Magdalena

Vineyard Riesling (Seneca Lake).
The power in seeking a sense of place Concentrated aromas of lemon oil, peach, pine and
struck flint grace the nose of this single-vineyard
R
Riesling. It’s rounded and full in feel on the palate,
ieslings from New York are among the best 10 miles from the winery on the northwest
filled out by juicy orchard fruit flavors yet expertly
examples of the variety in the country, side of Seneca Lake, this silt loam site is one honed by zesty acidity and a delicate grip of white
with those from the Finger Lakes region of the warmest in the area and consistently tea. A lemon oil tone lingers on the finish, but with
leading the charge. About 1,000 acres produces a richly fruited, earthy and textured ample lift and length. —A.P.
are planted to the grape in the area, making dry expression. abv: 12% Price: $35
it a relatively small affair, yet what it lacks in Other bottlings, like Wagner’s Caywood
quantity, it more than makes up for in quality
and site expression.
East or Red Newt’s Tango Oaks, are more
recent endeavors. The former is a racy, stony,
93 Hosmer 2019 Limited Release Riesling
(Cayuga Lake). For full review see page 90.
Editors’ Choice.
Vineyards in the Finger Lakes are anything streamlined wine sourced from a steep vineyard abv: 11.3% Price: $25
but homogenous. Due to the planted in 2005, while the latter
region’s geological history—
namely a wall of glaciers from Vineyards in the
is a perfumed and spicy yet
pristinely fruity Riesling from a
93 Standing Stone 2019 Timeline Dry Riesling
(Seneca Lake). Sourced from vines planted
in 1972, this striking dry Riesling delves into
ice ages in the past carving up Finger Lakes are unique gravelly site caused by a perfumed tones of peach, apple, jasmine and slate.
the land—a mix of soil types and anything but catastrophic flood in 1935. There’s richness to the palate yet immense lift and
drive, with lasting acidity and crushed-stone verve
textures are exposed and planted
homogenous. These are but a drop in
pushing it along. It lingers long on a resounding
to vines. Beyond that, sites also the bucket for site-focused
citrus finish. Editors’ Choice. —A.P.
range in elevation, slope and Rieslings which seem to have abv: 12% Price: $25
proximity to the lakes, all of which influence the exploded in the past few years. But buyer
development of the grapes and contribute to the
stylistic outcome of the final wine.
beware: Quality and site specificity do not
always go hand-in-hand, and of course the 93 The Grapes of Roth 2019 Virgin Berry Dry
Riesling (Long Island). Ripe yellow apple
and Mirabelle plum aromas mix with crushed salt
Much like the rest of the wine world, other half of the equation for the final bottled
and apple blossoms on the nose of this dry Riesling.
many Finger Lakes producers share the goal outcome happens in the cellar. Regardless, There’s ample lift to the rounded palate, where
of creating wines with a “sense of place” and the persistent pursuit of understanding how crystalline acidity pushes through the ripe juicy
Riesling is the natural conduit in the region. Riesling performs across the region’s varied fruit flavors. Pithy pomelo zest and earthy white tea
Ever the pioneer, Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard sites is important. This discovery only makes flavors lend depth and linger on the close. —A.P.
abv: 11.6% Price: $32
has been bottling its well-regarded Magdalena the Finger Lakes stronger and solidifies it as a
Vineyard Riesling for over a decade. Located world-class wine region. —Alexander Peartree
93 Wagner 2019 Caywood East Vineyard Estate
Bottled Riesling (Finger Lakes). For full
review see page 91. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12% Price: $20
and lemon zest, with a real sense of energy and lift
RIESLING that persists through the lingering finish. Drink
now–2030. —A.P. 92 Fox Run 2019 Reserve Riesling (Seneca
Lake). There’s ample depth to the nose
94 Hermann J. Wiemer 2019 HJW Vineyard

Riesling (Seneca Lake). Incredibly zesty yet
abv: 9.5% Price: $36 of this wine, showing lemon oil, crushed stone,
yellow apple and ginger. It’s semidry in style but
rich aromas of apple, lemon peel and chamomile
dazzle on the nose of this single-vineyard wine.
It’s rounded and ripe in feel on the palate, yet
94 Hermann J. Wiemer 2019 Reserve Dry
Riesling (Seneca Lake). For full review see
page 87. Editors’ Choice.
impeccably balanced by plenty of zesty acidity. Juicy
orchard fruit flavors are underscored by a tangy line
of wet slate, making this utterly balanced and quite
immensely lifted by vibrant acidity. Juicy apple, abv: 12.5% Price: $29 lengthy. Drink through 2026. —A.P.
peach and yellow blossom flavors never falter, with abv: 11.6% Price: $30
a delicate crushed stone element adding zip to the
lingering finish. Drink through 2030. —A.P.
abv: 12.5% Price: $39
94 Living Roots 2019 Shale Creek Bone-Dry
Riesling (Finger Lakes). Sourced from a
Keuka Lake vineyard, this rich dry Riesling offers 92 Hermann J. Wiemer 2019 Dry Riesling
(Seneca Lake). Well-concentrated aromas
dense tones of tangerine, lemon oil, pine and dry of apple and peach meld with crushed stone and
94 Hermann J. Wiemer 2019 Josef Vineyard

Riesling (Seneca Lake). Concentrated
aromas of yellow apple, pineapple, lemon oil and
honeycomb on the nose. There’s immense breadth
and body to the palate, where juicy shots of orange
and apple push through the sultry texture. There’s
yellow blossoms on the nose. There’s a real sense of
energy and lift to the deft palate, where juicy shots
of tangerine and pome fruit are lifted by vibrant
pine meld with a blossomy undertone in this a delicate earthiness to it all, with a crushed slate
Riesling sourced from a vineyard that dates to the minerality zipping along on the lingering finish.
1970s. It’s unctuously sweet on the palate yet well Editors’ Choice. —A.P.
defined. Luscious orchard fruit is dappled in honey abv: 13.2% Price: $26
Continued on page 102

The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine
Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular
contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander
Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren
Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing
Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard,
Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman
in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor
Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone,
Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors
100 Il Marroneto 2016 Madonna delle Grazie
(Brunello di Montalcino). This dazzling
Paul Gregutt and Sean P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor
John Holl in New Jersey.
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s
wine is for Sangiovese purists and fans of extreme
finesse. Opening with tantalizing aromas of rose,
violet, berry, tilled earth and new leather, it’s
98 Argiano 2016 Vigna del Suolo (Brunello di
Montalcino). Made with vines that average
55 years old, this fragrant, single-vineyard Brunello
initials appear following the note. When no initials appear fol-
lowing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more youthfully intense but already a classic. Focused, boasts aromas of violet, menthol, wild berry and
reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all structured and radiant, the chiseled palate delivers spice. Loaded with class and finesse, the delicious,
tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara
Newman and all beer reviews are by John Holl.
cherry, raspberry, licorice and crushed mint before full-bodied palate features Marasca cherry, rasp-
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its a tobacco close. Taut, refined tannins and bright berry compote, blood orange, licorice and a hint of
suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us acidity keep it perfectly balanced. Drink 2026– coffee alongside polished, velvety tannins. A salty
by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices 2046. LLS–Winebow. Cellar Selection. —K.O. mineral note lingers on the finish. Drink 2024–2046.
are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. abv: 14.5% Price: $350 LUX Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS abv: 14.5% Price: $200
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind.
Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8
samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight
to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never
the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible,
products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:The pinnacle of quality.
Superb 94–97: A great achievement.
Excellent 90–93:Highly recommended.
Very Good 87–89:Often good value; well recommended.
Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less-
critical circumstances. 100 Le Chiuse 2016 Brunello di Montalcino.
This gorgeous wine opens with fragrant
aromas of violet, wild berry, new leather, tilled earth
98 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2016 Pianrosso
(Brunello di Montalcino). Aromas of red
berry, camphor and tobacco meld with rose in this
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
points) are not reviewed. and spice. Showing the estate’s hallmark elegance, fragrant, full-bodied red. The smooth palate is
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS structure and precision, the focused, full-bodied concentrated yet elegant, featuring raspberry jam,
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- palate delivers cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise cherry marinated in spirits, licorice and coffee bean
ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price and tobacco before finishing on a note of black tea. alongside a backbone of firm, velvety tannins. Drink
with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible Taut, refined tannins and bright acidity keep it 2023–2031. Indigenous Selections. —K.O.
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to vibrant and balanced. Drink 2024–2046. Frederick abv: 15% Price: $100
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In abv: 14.5% Price: $99
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced
at $15 or less, and are designated Best Buys after surpassing a
specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark.
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo-
cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/
contact-us. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review
Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast.
net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make
every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there
is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or
that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be
accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may
be downloaded from our website.
LABELS
99 Conti Costanti 2016 Brunello di Montalcino.
This savory stunner has enticing scents
of violet, rose and wild berry that gain complexity 97 Livio Sassetti 2016 Pertimali (Brunello di
Montalcino). Red berry, violet and menthol
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given
the opportunity to submit labels only after the reviews have been alongside notes of leather, camphor and sandalwood. aromas fill the glass alongside a whiff of underbrush
finalized and assigned to a specific issue. Labels are reproduced
and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information The elegantly structured palate is all about precision, in this full-bodied red. The tightly wound palate
on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax featuring juicy cherry, blood orange, star anise and offers Marasca cherry, licorice, tobacco and a hint
866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net tobacco framed in taut, refined tannins. Bright acid- of game set against a backbone of assertive, fine-
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at ity keeps it energized. Drink 2024–2046. Empson grained tannins. Flashes of bright acidity keep it bal-
winemag.com/ratings USA Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O. anced. Drink 2024–2036. The Sorting Table. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $119 abv: 14.5% Price: $90
WINEMAG.COM | 83
BUYINGGUIDE
96 Argiano 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. This

fragrant red opens with heady scents of
96 Domaine de la Solitude 2018 Vin de la Soli-
tude (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This wine
is the result of a cofermentation of nine different 96 Klein Constantia 2017 Vin de Constance
(Constantia). From a stellar vintage comes
blue flower, star anise, camphor and new leather. regional grapes (red and white) added to the vat as a rich and opulent wine, though one that is also
Still young and primary, it delivers juicy red cherry, they mature. A showcase of balance in contrast to remarkably precise in focus. Aromas of honeycomb,
spiced cranberry, licorice and tobacco supported by the big Grenache-dominant styles popular today, sweet roasted nuts, baked apple, orange marmalade
a backbone of refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it’s a spirited, delightfully pure-fruited red marked and a touch of pressed honeysuckle set the stage on
it energized and balanced. Drink 2026–2041. LUX by crisp red-currant and sour-cherry flavors, with the nose and mouth, but are partnered for optimal
Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. nuances of bramble, earth and smoked tea leaves. balance by a pronounced seam of acidity and lin-
abv: 14.5% Price: $65 Breathtaking and spry, it’s at peak now through gering ginger and baking spice accents on the long,
2035. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. evolving finish. It’s hard to resist now, but this
abv: 14.5% Price: $100 will hold and mature well through 2037. Frederick
Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —L.B.
abv: 14% Price: $120/500 ml
96 Caparzo 2015 Riserva (Brunello di Montal-

cino). Underbrush, rose, new leather and
camphor aromas mingle with wild berry in this fra-
grant, classy red. Linear and elegantly structured, 96 Fuligni 2015 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-
talcino). Aromas of ripe black-skinned fruit,
the focused palate delivers juicy red cherry, spiced
cranberry, star anise and cinnamon set against firm,
refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced.
menthol and star anise form the nose of this full-
bodied red. Combining structure and finesse, the
palate delivers raspberry, licorice and vanilla before
96 San Polo 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. Aro-
mas of underbrush, rose petal, new leather
and wild mint shape the nose. The savory, elegantly
Drink 2023–2030. Vineyard Brands. —K.O. a coffee finish. A backbone of firm, fine-grained tan- structured palate shows ripe red cherry, raspberry
abv: 14% Price: $80 nins and fresh acidity keep it well balanced. Drink compote, licorice and cinnamon framed in tightly
2025–2030. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. knit, fine-grained tannins. Bright acidity keeps
abv: 15% Price: $205 it radiant. Drink 2023–2036. Trinchero Family
Estates. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $65
96 Daou 2018 Family Cuvée Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (Paso Robles). Aromas dark cherry,
black currant, coffee, tar and cinnamon carry
the lush nose of this bottling. Fine-grained tan-
nins frame the intensely layered sip, holding up
96 J Vineyards & Winery 2015 Brut Rosé
(Russian River Valley). Given plenty of
time to age and coalesce, this impressive sparkler 96 Schramsberg 2015 Piedra Libre Vineyards
Brut (Sonoma Coast). This brut is made
deep flavors of cassis, blueberry and dried beef, combines 59% Pinot Noir with 33% Chardonnay from 52% Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir, with
with touches of espresso and sesame seed adding and 8% Pinot Meunier. Together, they offer a 41% barrel fermented. Inviting in tangerine, peach
intrigue. Daniel Daou’s tannin management regime complex, vibrant imprint of orange peel, red cherry, and oyster shell, it has tension and energy on offer,
shines brightly here. —M.K. strawberry and stone, while the foundation is the crisp freshness deliciously vibrant from start to
abv: 14.4% Price: $100 structured and lengthy. —V.B. finish. —V.B.
abv: 12.5% Price: $65 abv: 12.7% Price: $90

95 Inman Family 2018 Brut Rosé (Russian River
Valley). This sparkling wine is fun and full
96 Three Sticks 2018 Gap’s Crown Vineyard

Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Juicy and
supple, this red offers a generous helping of blue
95 Castelgiocondo 2016 Brunello di Montalcino.
Eucalyptus, blue flower, baked plum and
spice aromas shape the nose in this fragrant red.
of finesse, with crisp layers of strawberry, peach and
Meyer lemon. From the producer’s own dry-farmed
Olivet Grange Estate Vineyard, it is deliciously fresh
fruit matched by bright acidity. On the palate, it is Full bodied and chewy, the savory palate deliv- and fruity, with complex undertones of almond,
lengthy, lush and textured, with accents of crushed ers ripe black cherry, vanilla, licorice and espresso anise and earth. —V.B.
rock, cardamom, nutmeg and white pepper. This alongside tightly knit, velvety tannins. Drink 2023– abv: 11.7% Price: $68
showcases the site and vintage in a balanced, grace- 2031. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —K.O.
ful wine. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $71
abv: 14.1% Price: $70
95 Maison Les Alexandrins 2018 Côte-Rôtie.

Syrah’s sultry cassis and blackberry fla-
vors are lifted by Viognier’s airy floral perfume in
this full-bodied, robust red. Etched by schist and a
96 Villa Poggio Salvi 2015 Riserva (Brunello

di Montalcino). Delicious and loaded
with finesse, this red boasts aromas and flavors of
95 Château Siran 2018 Margaux. From an estate
in the southern part of Margaux, this wine
has just the right mix of rich tannins and taut
piercing vein of iodine, it’s a deeply fruity but com-
plex wine that wears its earthen, smoky subtleties
with finesse. The finish lingers on a grip of fine,
underbrush, blue flower, ripe plum, juicy red berry black-currant flavors to give upfront freshness and sandpapery tannins. At peak from 2022–2030, the
and baking spice. Notes of licorice and tobacco potential for further aging. Structured and fruity, it wine will hold much longer still. Vineyard Brands.
linger on the finish while velvety tannins offer should be drunk from 2027. Multiple U.S. import- Cellar Selection. —A.I.
polished support. Drink 2022–2030. FX Magner ers. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.1% Price: $89
Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $38
abv: 14.5% Price: $95
95 Caraccioli 2018 Escolle Vineyard Pinot Noir

(Santa Lucia Highlands). A rose potpourri
95 Davies 2018 Hyde Vineyards Pinot Noir
(Carneros). From the mighty Hyde Vine-
yards, this red is seamless, delicious and memo-
95 Padelletti 2016 Brunello di Montalcino.
Tantalizing aromas of wild berry, rose, cam-
phor and new leather lead the way in this fragrant
aroma is wrapped around ripe cherries on the nose, rable, full of impressive structure and grip. Black wine. The medium-bodied palate is both firm and
spiced with a touch of mace and made further com- tea, strawberry and a juicy midpalate of darker fruit elegant, featuring juicy red cherry, cranberry and
plex by a hint of game. The wood-spice character of and baking spice give weight and complexity to the licorice before finishing on a coffee note. Tight,
the palate plays with wild berry and cherry, as tight whole, boosted by fresh, persistent acidity and a fine-grained tannins and bright acidity keep it fresh
tannins and biting acidity lead into a roasted-pork- hint of chocolate. —V.B. and balanced. Drink 2024–2036. Oliver McCrum
kissed finish. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $70 Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 13.3% Price: $50 abv: 14% Price: $76
WINEMAG.COM | 85
BUYINGGUIDE
95 Padelletti 2015 Riserva (Brunello di

Montalcino). Aromas of camphor, new
leather, forest floor and a whiff of coffee bean 95 Spear 2018 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sta.
Rita Hills). There’s tremendous purity to the 94 Calera 2018 Chardonnay (Mt. Harlan). Light
aromas of honeysuckle, sea salt, white
shape the nose. Full in feel but showing the finesse red cherry and hibiscus aromas on the nose of this peach and nectarine show on the nose of this classic
imparted by high-altitude vineyards located to the bottling, which also shows aromas of bay leaf and bottling, from a 2,200-foot-high vineyard. There is
north of Montalcino, the youthfully energized pal- dried herbs. The texture is immediately compelling a strong streak of limestone flavor to the sip, with
ate features ripe Marasca cherry, licorice and coffee. on the sip, where rich cherry flavors are sprinkled warmer hints of white peach and toast. —M.K.
Firm, refined tannins keep it well balanced. Drink with black tea, cardamom and coriander. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $55
2023–2030. Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45
abv: 14.5% Price: $120
95 San Polo 2016 Podernovi (Brunello di Mon-

talcino). Aromas of forest floor, grilled herb, 95 Stone Edge Farm 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Sonoma Valley). From a high-elevation site
94 Caraccioli 2018 Escolle Vineyard Chardonnay
(Santa Lucia Highlands). A bold chalky
aroma melds with Asian pear, Tuscan melon and
camphor and pipe tobacco mingle on the nose of in what is now Moon Mountain, as well as a smaller light brushes of yuzu and Meyer lemon in this wine.
this full-bodied red. The firm, elegantly structured vineyard on the valley floor, both estate, this red The palate grabs hold with a texture that doesn’t
palate offers juicy Marasca cherry, red currant, lico- opens with a fragrant nose of rose and cherry. quit, carrying flavors of lemon bar and cashew that
rice and coffee bean. Tightly wound, fine-grained Blended with 11% Cabernet Franc and 2% Malbec, are rich in their own sneaky way. —M.K.
tannins and fresh acidity grip the close and lend an the palate follows in a contrast of tart currant and abv: 14% Price: $35
ageworthy structure. Drink 2026–2041. Trinchero earthy, herbal components of cedar, pencil and sage.
Family Estates. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Structured and elegant, drink from 2026–2036.
abv: 14.5% Price: $150 Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14% Price: $130
94 Château de Pez 2018 Saint-Estèphe. Under

the same Rouzaud family ownership as
95 San Polo 2016 Vignavecchia (Brunello di

Montalcino). Aromas of pine, blue flower,
wild herb and menthol take shape on the fra- 94 Amor Fati 2018 Murmur Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Maria Valley). Tart black raspberry
Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande in Pauillac,
this estate has produced a structured wine. It offers
dense and solid tannins, rich with a firm texture
grant nose. The firm, linear palate delivers Mar- meets with crumpled oregano and dry, earthy loam and black currant fruits. The wine has weight and
asca cherry, spiced cranberry, licorice and tobacco on the nose of this bottling from a vineyard on the density that need aging. Drink from 2026. Maisons
before finishing on a hint of coffee. Tightly wound, western edge of the appellation. There is a tight Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.
fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity keep it well texture on the palate, where muddled plum, brisk abv: 14.5% Price: $60
balanced, but it’s still youthfully austere and needs berry and light chaparral flavors dance across the
time to fully develop. Drink 2026–2046. Trinchero tongue. —M.K.
Family Estates. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.1% Price: $60
abv: 14.5% Price: $300

94 Cortonesi 2016 La Mannella (Brunello di
Montalcino). Aromas of forest floor, new
leather, wild berry and warm spices lead the nose.
94 Domaine de la Solitude 2018 Châteauneuf-
du-Pape. Camphor and smoked tea subtly
accent black currant and cherry in this blend of
94 Goldeneye 2017 Ten Degrees Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). Dazzling spicy aromas
and vibrant black-fruit flavors converge beautifully
Classically crafted and firmly structured, the pal- Grenache (50%), Syrah (25%), Mourvédre (15%) in this bold but balanced wine. Scents of wood
ate features juicy black cherry, crushed raspberry, and Cinsault (10%). While full in feel and concen- smoke, toasted oak, cardamom and black pepper
licorice and tobacco supported by a backbone of trated, it’s a fruit-focused, immediately enjoyable meet black cherry, aged beef and blueberry on the
youthfully assertive tannins. Fresh acidity provides expression of this domaine at peak now through palate, buoyed by moderate tannins and subtle nervy
plenty of tension. Drink 2026–2041. Quintessential 2030. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —A.I. acidity. Best from 2023. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $48 abv: 14.5% Price: $130
abv: 14.5% Price: $65
94 Edio 2019 Estate Blend Mourvèdre (Sierra

Foothills). This deeply concentrated and 94 Hermann J. Wiemer 2019 Reserve Dry
Riesling (Seneca Lake). From a blend of
94 Daou 2018 Bodyguard (Paso Robles). In

comparison to some of the brand’s other
offerings, this is an affordable way to check in on
focused wine wraps a blanket of fine-grained
tannins around a core of black currant, black cherry
and plum flavors. Built for at least mid-term aging,
estate sites, this dry Riesling offers soothing aromas
of peach, apricot, lavender and orchard blossom. It’s
sultry and creamy on the medium-bodied palate,
the Daou experience. Savory aromas of coffee bean it is full bodied but balanced and tempting to drink, but well honed by vibrant acidity. A blossomy tone
meet with lush purple fruits on the nose. The palate though it is holding back its best stuff until 2023 lingers throughout, with a rich core of peach and
is rounded in texture, with rich flavors of dark berry, and beyond. —J.G. apple struck against a gently pithy texture. Drink
cappuccino, milk chocolate and caramel. Editors’ abv: 14.7% Price: $40 through 2028. Editors’ Choice. —A.P.
Choice. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $29
abv: 14.7% Price: $40
94 Gary Farrell 2018 Russian River Selection

Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
94 J Vineyards & Winery 2016 Blanc de
94 Dauvergne & Ranvier 2019 Vin Rare (Con-

drieu). Powerful and perfumed, this silky-
tipped Viognier balances streaks of honey and
Sumptuous in strawberry, blackberry and nutmeg
spice, with prominent tannin structure, this is a
balanced wine sourced from enviable sites such
Noirs (Sonoma Coast). Showing aromas
of marzipan, brioche and graham cracker, this
sparkling blend is made from 60% Pinot Noir and
cream against pristine apricot and white-peach as Hallberg, Rochioli and Martaella. Orange peel, 40% Pinot Meunier and spent three years en tirage.
flavors. It’s a mouthclinging wine, with a warming black tea and dried herb accent a creamy, decadent Layered swirls of white peach, green apple and wet
finish accented by smoke, schist and rose petals. It’s texture that is never weighted down, boosted by stone give it vibrancy and a length of fruity flavor
at peak now through 2027 but will hold further. LGI buzzy acidity throughout. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. and freshness, leading to a complete, nutmeg-tinged
Wines. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13.9% Price: $45 finish. —V.B.
WINEMAG.COM | 87
BUYINGGUIDE
94 Lincourt 2017 Rancho Santa Rosa Pinot

Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Aromas of lavender 94 Santa Carolina 2017 VSC (Cachapoal Valley).
Ripe blackberry and dark plum aromas are
94 J Vineyards & Winery 2014 Blanc de Blancs

(Russian River Valley). A lively mousse leads
to a refined core of rich baked pear, fig and almond
potpourri, dried meat and baked black plum make
for a heady, inviting nose in this bottling. The palate
is cohesive and well-integrated, offering hints of
dense and full as they veer toward raisin, while this
feels stocky and deep, with beneficial edginess to
the well-structured palate. Dark chocolate, coffee,
croissant. With five years en tirage, it offers depth roasted tomato, baked plum, thyme and oregano, vanilla and easygoing spice flavors sit atop the core
alongside crisp underlying freshness, with a creamy, with an elegant acidity that cuts through the rich blackberry and cassis, while this is smooth and silky
memorable finish. —V.B. mouthfeel. —M.K. on a finish with licorice and chocolate notes that
abv: 12.5% Price: $80 abv: 13.9% Price: $40 ride on for a while. Drink this comfortably ripe and
pure red blend through 2027. Carolina Wine Brands
USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 15% Price: $35
94 L’Ecole No. 41 2018 Ferguson Vineyard

Estate Grown (Walla Walla Valley). Cabernet
Sauvignon comprises 55% of this wine, with the
balance Merlot (24%), Cabernet Franc (11%), and
then equal parts Malbec and Petit Verdot. The fruit
94 Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2017 Pinha
Ribeiro Santo Reserva (Dão). This poised
wine is made from Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz
94 Wentworth 2019 Nash Mill Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This nervy,
appetizing and tightly balanced wine holds back
flavors show sophistication. It’s packed tightly and Alfrocheiro. While the black fruits are dense, a bit from complete ripeness to bring out tangy
with youthful tannins, acidity and notes of cherry, they are also elegant, yielding a rich wine that’s bal- red- and black-cherry aromas, raspberry and
black tea, raspberry and spice. It will have a very anced by bright acidity. Drink from 2022. Iberian cranberry flavors and a moderately tannic texture
long life ahead of it. Drink 2030–2040. Cellar Wine Importers. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. on a medium body. Made with native yeast, 45%
Selection. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $17 of whole clusters and one-third new French barrels,
abv: 14.5% Price: $70 it’s a great showing in a slightly restrained style.
Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 13% Price: $75
94 Lightpost 2019 Saveria Vineyards Reserve 94 Sangiacomo 2018 Green Acres Vineyard
Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Given
Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Fresh
black raspberry, hibiscus and sumac carry the nose
of this expressive bottling, which gains complexity
moderate time in French oak, just 20% of it new,
this wine retains a lively freshness beneath the lush
fruit. Bright notes throughout complement the rich,
93 Ancient Peaks 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Santa Margarita Ranch). A deep blackberry
aroma meets with licorice and mushroom on the
from an accent of fennel pollen. The snappy berry rewarding body of pear compote and nutmeg. —V.B. fresh and savory nose. The palate’s black currant
and plum-skin flavors meet with rose petals and abv: 14% Price: $65 and blueberry core is partnered harmoniously with
cinnamon on the palate. —M.K. notes of chipped wood and toasted herbs as well as
abv: 14.2% Price: $49 jubilant acidity. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $22

93 Brotte 2018 Domaine Barville (Châteauneuf-
du-Pape). This bright, youthful blend of
80% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre 93 Chalone Vineyard 2019 Estate Grown Pinot
Noir (Chalone). Tight aromas of boysenberry 93 Four Lanterns 2017 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Templeton Gap District). Dark
spotlights succulent raspberry and red-cherry and black raspberry meet with a wet soil minerality, and focused aromas of chiseled slate and stone meet
flavors. Matured primarily in tank and with no new- red flowers and a touch of mace on the nose of this with intense boysenberry and vanilla liqueur on the
oak influences, it’s a plummy, richly concentrated bottling. Tart cherry and cranberry flavors are fresh nose of this bottling. The tannins are firm yet lavish
wine shaded by hints of crushed stone, peppercorn on the palate, where mixed dried herbs and a light on the sip, where roasted fig and plum flavors meet
and anise. Fine-grained but gripping tannins are vanilla finish make for a complex experience. —M.K. with espresso bean and finish on a black cherry and
approachable now but will keep things upright abv: 14.3% Price: $40 vanilla kick. —M.K.
through 2028 at least. Monsieur Touton Selection abv: 15.25% Price: $100
Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 15% Price: $40
93 Echolands 2018 Les Collines Vineyard

Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). From Master
Sommelier and Master of Wine Doug Frost, the 93 Fox Run 2019 Silvan Riesling (Seneca Lake).
Intense aromas of lemon peel, shiso leaf and
93 Calera 2017 Ryan Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mt.

Harlan). Baked cherry, star anise, clove and
chai elements show on the ripe and spicy nose of this
aromas of this wine are restrained out of the gate,
but reveal notes of raspberry, cranberry, thistle,
herb, orange peel and violet that blossom over time.
green apple swirl on the nose. There’s a creamy,
rounded feel to the medium-bodied palate, where
coiled flavors of apple, lime and quince revolve
bottling, which was harvested after this vintage’s It’s a reserved styling, with flavors that stick around around a stony core. It shows immense energy and
huge Labor Day heat spike. The wine is rich, heavy on the finish. The emphasis is on purity, restraint lift. Drink through 2030. Editors’ Choice. —A.P.
and layered on the palate, with black plum flavors and a vibrant sense of acidity. Cellar Selection. abv: 12.4% Price: $20
coated in cardamom and sagebrush. —M.K. —S.S.
93 Gary Farrell 2017 Terra de Promissio Vineyard

Pinot Noir (Petaluma Gap). Juicy bolts of
93 Chalone Vineyard 2019 Estate Grown

Chardonnay (Chalone). Recent vintages
mark a return to grace for this historic property,
93 Edio 2018 Frank’s Blend (Sierra Foothills).
Very firm and structured, this tightly knit
wine compresses black cherry, blueberry and
raspberry, strawberry, orange and cranberry give
this vineyard-designate wine a tangy edge. From a
cool-climate site, it offers plenty of structure and
where Winemaker Gianni Abate is bringing life back dark chocolate into a moderately tannic frame. savory complements of stoney mineral, black tea
to the wines. This bottling begins with a tight citrus- Admirably concentrated and deep, it’s built for and forest floor around a velvety texture. —V.B.
peel element on the nose as well as crushed sea shell. further aging and should be best from 2023. Cellar abv: 13.9% Price: $70
The texture is very rocky in a pleasant way, carrying Selection. —J.G.
fresh flavors of yuzu peel, jicama and Asian pear. abv: 14.7% Price: $60
Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.4% Price: $30
WINEMAG.COM | 89
BUYINGGUIDE
93 Goldeneye 2017 Gowan Creek Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Anderson Valley). Tempting, spicy 93 J Vineyards & Winery 2012 Brut Late
Disgorged (Russian River Valley). This is
93 M2 2018 Soucie Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel
(Mokelumne River). This quietly complex
wine goes deep into subtle blackberry, fig and
aromas and deep flavors make this full-bodied wine made from 61% Chardonnay, 36% Pinot Noir and coffee flavors, while rich, fine-grained tannins
especially appealing as scents of cinnamon, nutmeg 3% Pinot Meunier. Given time to gel in bottle, it add just enough structure for good balance. Nicely
and cedar lead to nicely tangy but indulgent black- is light-gold in color, with a fervent mousse that integrated hints of vanilla, cinnamon and mocha
cherry, black-tea and raspberry flavors. Moderate leads to a weighty midpalate of texture and heft. come out with more sipping, and the finish lingers.
tannins and snappy acidity counter the ripeness to Blood orange, green apple and a peanut brittle-like Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
great effect. Best from 2024. —J.G. nuttiness mingle through a lengthy finish. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $32
93 Hamilton Russell 2019 Chardonnay (Hemel-

en-Aarde Valley). A beautiful wine from a
great vintage, aromas of sea spray, apple flesh and a
93 MacLaren 2017 Drouthy Neebors Syrah
(Sonoma County). Not much of this crowd-
pleasing wine was made, but what exists is a
touch of melon form the delicate nose of this precise
Chardonnay. The palate is light and somewhat lin-
ear on entry, but then waves of ripe, lightly toasted
93 Justin 2015 Platinum Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Very dark in the
glass, this aged bottling begins with an herbal kick of
lively and fresh expression that’s bold in peppery
spice and garrigue. A leathery backbone of cola
and nutmeg contribute nuanced richness to the
orchard fruit and mouthwatering acidity dance toasted thyme alongside baked earth, chiseled stone blackberry and cherry fruit. —V.B.
across the palate and into the bright, focused finish. and tart fruit. The palate is quite tarry in texture and abv: 13.5% Price: $56
This is a baby, so give it more time to truly shine. flavor, with ripe blackberry and black-cherry elements
Drink 2024–2029. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. playing against a slightly bitter herb tone. —M.K.
abv: 13% Price: $43 abv: 15% Price: $170
93 Hosmer 2019 Limited Release Riesling

(Cayuga Lake). Concentrated tones of apple, 93 Kirkland Signature 2018 Cuvée du Terroir des
Papes (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). In recent
93 MacLaren 2017 Samantha’s Vineyard Syrah
(Russian River Valley). Juicy in strawberry,
blueberry and cranberry flavors, this red is lifted
white grapefruit, citrus perfume and peach make vintages, this wine has been produced by Guillaume and enduringly fresh. Bright acidity boosts both the
for a deep well of aromas on the nose. There’s real Gonnet, a small, family-owned domaine known for fruit and meatiness that accompanies the wine—a
depth to the palate, where a gentle, pithy texture is exceptional, often pricey wines in limited distribu- mix of game, mushroom and black pepper. —V.B.
lifted by juicy pome and stone fruit. It has almost tion. This blackberried red provides an excellent abv: 13.5% Price: $52
an oily feel, yet that texture is quickly put to rest by introduction to Gonnet’s elegant, delicately spiced
the pervasive drive of the zesty acidity. It’s one to wines. Ample, velvety and spiked by cocoa powder,
sip, savor and, if you can, cellar. Drink now–2030. fur and graphite, it’s ready now but likely to hold
Editors’ Choice. —A.P. through 2030. Misa Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 11.3% Price: $25 abv: 15% Price: $21

93 Markus 2018 Sol (Lodi). Rich, lush
blackberries and raspberries meet subtle
black-pepper, cocoa and beef jus flavors in this
93 Sky Devil 2018 Formation Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This Cabernet
includes small amounts of Merlot, Malbec and Petit
93 Vik 2017 Milla Cala Millahue (Cachapoal
Valley). Briary blackberry and cassis aro-
mas include familiar Chilean notes of eucalyptus
full-bodied, nicely polished wine made from Petite Verdot in the blend. Aged 21 months in a majority and juniper. This Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant
Sirah, Zinfandel and Petit Verdot. It’s mouthfilling, of new oak, it tastes of toast and deliciously ripe red blend is ripe and creamy in feel, with generous
rounded and plump, backed by velvety, smooth fruit, with substantial concentration, structure and flavors of brown sugar, herbs, blackberry, cassis,
tannins. —J.G. intensity. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. coffee and chocolate. The finish is chewy and rich.
abv: 14.6% Price: $39 abv: 15.7% Price: $95 Drink now–2025. Guarachi Wine Partners. Editors’
Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $45
93 Palazzo 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. A cam-

phor aroma joins new leather, underbrush 93 Stone Edge Farm 2018 Sauvignon Blanc
(Sonoma Valley). Tart Meyer lemon and
and pipe tobacco in this classically crafted Brunello.
Youthfully austere and firmly structured, the pal-
ate delivers dried cherry, licorice and grilled porcini
grapefruit kick off this estate-grown white which
includes 16% Sémillon. Earthy, complex and
textured, it delivers structure and elegance, with a
93 Wagner 2019 Caywood East Vineyard Estate
Bottled Riesling (Finger Lakes). Intensely
coiled aromas of fresh lime, crushed stone and
set against a tannic backbone. It’s still young but length of nectarine on the finish. —V.B. peach blossom give this single-vineyard wine a
balanced by fresh acidity. Give it plenty of time to abv: 14.4% Price: $50 sense of vitality. Bright shots of lime, grapefruit
come around. Drink 2026–2036. Montcalm Wine and lemon are met with a juicy apple core on the
Importers. Cellar Selection. —K.O. dry palate, leading to a gently creamy texture on the
abv: 14.5% Price: $90 lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —A.P.
abv: 12% Price: $20
93 Shannon Ridge 2018 Giannecchini Family 93 Trois Noix 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). This white is crisp and complex in
Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel (Mendocino
County). Wonderful fruit complexity, a full body
and a velvety texture add up to a lot of enjoyment
equal measure. Lively acidity boosts layers of Meyer
lemon, grapefruit and tangerine, with ample weight
and mouthfeel impression to keep it engaging and
93 Yao Family Wines 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Howell Mountain). Perfumed in rose and
sage, this mountain-grown wine is oak-driven and
in this concentrated, layered release. Blackberry, lengthy on the finish. —V.B. intensely built, with crushed rock minerality and
dried plum, blueberry and a hint of espresso make abv: 14.1% Price: $40 textured tannins. Structured and generously ripe, it
an enticing combination while moderate tannins offers dense, brooding layers of leather, tobacco and
support them well. —J.G. black cherry. —V.B.
WINEMAG.COM | 91
BUYINGGUIDE
92 Armida 2019 Redwood Road Estate Sauvi-

gnon Blanc (Russian River Valley). Effusive
in pea shoot, lemongrass and white flower, this 92 Brotte 2018 La Marasque (Gigondas). A
blend of Grenache and Syrah sourced from 92 Devil’s Corner 2020 Chardonnay (Tasma-
nia). This is a well-priced Chardonnay that
white is made from the Musque clone and cofer- limestone soils, this wine offers black-cherry flavors champions the distinct character of Australia’s
mented with Pinot Gris. A small percentage is also that are succulent and concentrated but delightfully coolest climate winegrowing region. It offers flavors
barrel fermented. It remains vibrantly fresh in the fresh. Soft, silky tannins and salty, chalky minerals of melon, peach, ginger and toasty oak nuances. It’s
glass, tasting of crisp green apple. —V.B. linger on the finish. It’s gorgeously quaffable young both corpulent and refreshing, linear and crisp,
abv: 13.8% Price: $28 but should drink well through 2028. Monsieur Tou- with a salty mineral note adding complexity to the
ton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. fleshy fruit and spice flavors. Old Bridge Cellars.
abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Editors’ Choice. —C.P.
abv: 12% Price: $19
92 Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2018 Baronesa

P. (Maipo Valley). Typical Chilean aromas
of eucalyptus, green tobacco, tomato leaf and spicy
berry fruits lead to a layered palate with moderate
acidity. The palate brings flavors of prune, choco-
92 Château Fourcas Hosten 2018 Listrac-Médoc.
The firm tannins that characterize a wine
from Listrac are balanced in this wine by ripe black 92 Devil’s Corner 2019 Pinot Noir (Tasmania).
This distinctly Tassie Pinot offers a bouncy
late, baking spice and coffee grounds, while a lightly fruits. It is full and spicy, with the wood aging just red cherry tone in the fore backed by hints of cin-
herbal finish is warm and ripe, with coffee, mocha showing in the smoky edge of this ageworthy wine. namon and earthy spice. The palate is medium in
and dried berry flavors. Drink in the near term. Drink from 2025. —R.V. weight, lifted by tart cranberry fruit and crunchy
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 acidity. Silky tannins allow the fruit to shine
abv: 14% Price: $50 brightly through the gaps. Old Bridge Cellars. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $19
92 Bodega Garzón 2018 Petit Clos Block #212

Tannat (Uruguay). Plum and currant aro-
mas are bouncy and lightly herbal. A palate with
92 De Sante 2019 L’Atelier (Napa Valley). This is
a field blend of nearly equal parts Sémillon,
Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay, with a smaller amount
pulpy fruit and lively acidity shows good lift. Pep- of Sauvignon Blanc. Flavors of vanilla, peach and
per, plum, cassis and berry flavors linger on a finish toasted oak sit on a fresh and elegant palate, with
alongside a salty tomato-sauce note and dry tan-
nins. Drink through 2023. Pacific Highway Wines &
Spirits. —M.S.
subtle earthy accents chiming in. —V.B.
abv: 13% Price: $28 92 Dry Creek Vineyard 2018 Old Vine Zinfandel
(Dry Creek Valley). Juicy and broad in
pomegranate, blood orange and blackberry, this wine
abv: 14.5% Price: $70 also offers tremendously appealing and complex
seasonings of dried herb and black pepper. Balanced
by underlying acidity, it shows the intensity and
intellectual satisfaction of old vines. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $38

92 Edio 2019 Estate Grown Albariño (El Dorado).
Aromas of flowers and apples lead to a rich,
rounded mouthfeel and a fresh Anjou pear flavor in
92 Foursight 2018 Charles Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). This indulgent, ripe and
mouthcoating wine overflows with tempting black-
92 RD 2019 Hundred Knot Sauvignon Blanc
(Napa Valley). Flavors of juicy green apple,
lime and grapefruit come to the fore in this tangy,
this generous-feeling but technically light-bodied cherry and plum flavors wrapped in a soft, full fresh and lifted white wine. The layers of fruit
wine. It has the broad, soothing texture of a barrel- texture and little noticeable tannin. It’s a relaxed, are balanced and complex, lingering on hints of
fermented, lees-stirred wine. —J.G. generous wine that’s ready to enjoy. —J.G. lemongrass and nutmeg. —V.B.
abv: 12.6% Price: $24 abv: 13.7% Price: $49 abv: 13.5% Price: $33
92 Fess Parker 2019 Chardonnay (Santa

Barbara County). Tightly coiled aromas of
crushed limestone, grapefruit rind and lemon pith
92 Marimar 2017 Mas Cavalls Doña Margarita
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). From
a cool-climate site planted to high-density vines, 92 Smith & Hook 2018 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Intense aromas
make for an appealing nose in this countywide this wine is immensely funky and earthy in all the of smoky oak, ripe berries and caramelized cherries
blend. The palate shows plenty of chalky grip in right ways. Crunchy citrus meets lifted acidity and make for a lush nose in this reserve bottling. It
line with those aromas, and the flavors soften just a prominent tannins, offering contrast to the flavors lands large on the palate, with smoked meat, black-
bit toward Meyer lemon peel and sea salt. Editors’ of bay leaf, mint and blackberry. —V.B. cherry compote and oak-dust flavors, framed by firm
Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $54 tannins that slip into a caramel-sauce finish. —M.K.
92 Four Lanterns 2018 Tempranillo (Templeton 92 RD 2019 Fifth Moon Grüner Veltliner (Edna
Valley). Crisp aromas of Pink Lady apple
Gap District). Tart black plum, cola, dried
herbs and a rocky minerality greet the nose in
this bottling. There is a firm and rocky grip to
slices and Mandarin peel show a touch of green
herbs while remaining clean on the nose. The palate
is zesty and fresh, showing firm kiwi and crisp lime
92 Somnium 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). Made by Julien Fayard for former
race-car driver Danica Patrick, this is a thick,
the palate, which contrasts the fresh blueberry flavors. —M.K. substantially structured wine blended with small
flavor. It needs a tad more time, but will drink well abv: 13% Price: $25 amounts of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit
for at least a decade. Drink 2022–2033. Cellar Verdot. It shows graphite, lead, tar and tobacco
Selection. —M.K. tones. It’s unabashedly savory and earthy in style,
abv: 15% Price: $52 with quiet red and black fruit framed by oak. Enjoy
from 2028–2038. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14% Price: $75
WINEMAG.COM | 93
BUYINGGUIDE
92 Tesselaarsdal 2019 Chardonnay (Hemel-en-

Aarde Ridge). Beautifully precise aromas of
orange rind, crisp yellow apple, soft toast and deli-
92 Wentworth 2019 Pinot Noir (Anderson
Valley). Alluring, well-developed aromas
and rich, layered flavors help this full-bodied wine
91 Concha y Toro 2019 Terrunyo Los Boldos Vine-
yard Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley).
Crisp, citric aromas are pure and minerally, with
cate wood spice dance on the bouquet of this lovely stand out from the crowd. It layers dark cherry and only the slightest hint of prickly green herbs. A
Chardonnay. The palate is focused and pure, with forest floor aromas and spiced plum and rosemary fresh, wholesome palate is crystalline and bright,
ample ripe fruit that is framed by bright, supportive flavors on a broad and mouthfilling texture. —J.G. balanced by a mix of citrus, green herb and pep-
acidity and a pronounced mineral impression that abv: 13% Price: $50 pery flavors. A long and cleansing finish rides a
unfolds on the long, evolving close alongside a kiss beam of lively acidity. Drink through 2021. Fetzer
of saline. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. Vineyards. —M.S.
91 Ancient Peaks 2018 Zinfandel (Santa

Margarita Ranch). Baked blackberry aromas
provide intense density on the nose of this bottling,
92 Two Sisters 2017 Courtney’s Vineyard

Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Baked pear,
warm apricot brioche, toasted nuts and yuzu peel
with accents of fennel frond and cola adding nuance.
The palate combines baked earth and sagebrush
flavors with black currant and blackberry, with just 91 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Margrit Dry Riesling
(Finger Lakes). Sourced from a vineyard
show on the nose of this bottling. The palate is rich enough tension holding it together. —M.K. on Seneca Lake, this wine offers a stony, earthy
in flavors of baked pineapple, buttered apple and abv: 15% Price: $20 core surrounded by citrus and apple tones on the
warm toast lifted by just enough lemon zest and nose. The palate is broad and juicy yet dry in style,
minerality to balance the marzipan finish. —M.K. with honed lemon, pome fruit and crushed stone
abv: 14.3% Price: $50 elements zipping along. —A.P.
abv: 12% Price: $35
92 Two Sisters 2017 Lindsay’s Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Rugged aromas of
91 Charles Krug 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). This wine offers tremendous value
and is made in large enough quantities for wide
sagebrush, baked earth and leather give depth to the distribution, adding to its appeal. Juicy in flavors
roasted cranberry core of this wine. Rich and hearty
flavors of seared strawberry and muddled mulberry
come through on the sip, where a creamy texture
of plum, cassis and cherry, it is balanced by soft
tannins and well-integrated oak. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $39
91 Duckhorn 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). Blended with 19% Sémillon and
mostly fermented in stainless steel, this crisp white
leads into gamy hints of blistered pork skin toward is fresh in lemongrass, peach, papaya and pineapple
the vanilla-kissed finish. —M.K. flavors. Balanced and brimming in lively acidity, it
abv: 13.9% Price: $40 offers texture and focus in an approachable, likable
package. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30

91 Gundlach Bundschu 2018 Merlot (Sonoma
Valley). With small additions of Cabernet
Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this savory, well-
91 Lincourt 2017 Rancho Santa Rosa Chardonnay
(Sta. Rita Hills). Tangy lemon and Mandarin
aromas meet with a core of buttered apricot on
91 Rabble 2018 Mossfire Ranch Tempranillo
(Paso Robles). This powerful yet balanced
wine begins with black cherry, caramel and vanilla
made wine is robust in dried herb, tobacco, tar the nose of this bottling. There’s a firm tension aromas while the palate’s jammy fruits are lifted by
and earth, with notes of sage beckoning in the to the sip, where toasted nut, sea salt and citrus star anise and red licorice. It’s all bound together by
background. A black cherry flavor complements the peel flavors are enhanced by a crushed seashell the grape’s stereotypically tight tannins. Editors’
moderate tannin and oak accents. —V.B. minerality. —M.K. Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 13.9% Price: $35 abv: 14.1% Price: $27
91 Hess Collection 2018 Lion Tamer Cabernet

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). With 10% Petite
Sirah and 7% Malbec, this Cabernet Sauvignon is 91 Maison Les Alexandrins 2018 Saint-Joseph.
This full-bodied Syrah juxtaposes powerful
91 Sarah’s Vineyard 2019 Bentrock Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Dried plum and
strawberry meet with turned earth, crumpled red
effusively bright in dense layers of fruit. A moderate black-fruited ripeness with cutting cassis and sour- flowers and a hint of ginger spice on the nose of this
grip of tannin helps to give it additional power and cherry acidity. It’s a concentrated, meaty expression single-vineyard expression. The palate is cohesive
length around a juicy midpalate of blueberry and of Saint-Joseph, with a finish that lingers on notes in structure and flavor, combining creamy cherry
vanilla. —V.B. of iron and graphite. Soft tannins make it welcom- and cola-spice elements with earthier tree bark and
abv: 14.5% Price: $65 ing already but it’s structured enough to drink at licorice seasonings. —M.K.
peak through 2026. Vineyard Brands. —A.I. abv: 14.2% Price: $48
abv: 14.1% Price: $39
91 J Vineyards & Winery 2014 Brut (Russian River

Valley). A blend of 52% Chardonnay, 35%
91 Pazzo 2018 Red (Napa Valley). This is a
blend of 38% Sangiovese, 36% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 22% Syrah and 4% Petite Sirah sourced
91 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2019 Aveta
Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). This bright
and balanced white offers tones of grass, herbs
Pinot Noir and 13% Pinot Meunier, this brut has a from across the appellation. Bold, brawny and and stone fruit, with a steely core of acidity and
lively mousse and fresh flavors of oyster shell, green thick in berry flavors and tannins, it offers accents freshness. A touch of fig adds subtle richness on the
apple and Meyer lemon. The bright structure is of dried herbs, toasted oak and game. Editors’ finish. —V.B.
complemented by savory details, giving it a sophis- Choice. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $30
ticated edge. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $35
abv: 12.5% Price: $60
WINEMAG.COM | 95
BUYINGGUIDE
91 Terra d’Oro 2018 Zinfandel (Amador County).

Pure, jammy, palate-pleasing flavors of
raspberries, black cherries and strawberries light
90 Alki 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia
Valley). Aromas and flavors of cocoa,
coconut, baking spice and black cherry run
90 Banshee 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso
Robles). Aromas of blackberry jam and vio-
let meet with hints of oregano and grilled meat on
up this full-bodied wine. A nip of tannin helps firm throughout. There’s a pleasant balance across it all, the nose of this bottling. There’s an herbal-tea tone
the texture as the fruitiness floods the mouth and with the fruit and barrel both playing a big part in to the sip, full of oregano, bay and peppercorns, as
extends into the finish. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. the show. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. well as more berry jam at the core, all framed by
abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.2% Price: $20 grippy, coffee-like tannins. —M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $25
91 Winescape 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon

(Columbia Valley). Coming from the White
Bluffs region, this wine offers aromas of raspberry 90 Alki 2018 Merlot (Columbia Valley). The
aromas boast notes of caramel, vanilla, 90 Bodega Garzón 2019 Reserva Tannat (Uru-
guay). A ruby color and spicy plum and
and chocolate alongside a sprinkling of dried herb. spice and brooding black cherry. Luscious but well- berry aromas open this medium-bodied Tannat,
The flavors are dense and ripe but polished and balanced fruit and oak flavors follow and unfold with briny hints of ocean air and seashell chim-
well-balanced. It’s a lovely wine made in an opulent in equal measure from start to finish. Editors’ ing in. Lightly herbal flavors of plum and cassis are
style. Give it a short decant. —S.S. Choice. —S.S. ever so slightly green, while this is smacking and
abv: 14.9% Price: $39 abv: 14.2% Price: $20 intense on a juicy finish. Pacific Highway Wines &
Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $20
90 Alki 2019 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). 90 Alki 2018 Red Blend (Columbia Valley).
Syrah makes up 88% of this wine, with the
With its pale golden hue, this wine has
aromas of yellow apple, pineapple and Bosc pear.
The palate is direct and lightly creamy, with a
balance equal parts Malbec and Petit Verdot. Dark
chocolate, dried green herb, vanilla and char aromas
are followed by lively red and black fruit flavors with
90 Bodega Garzón 2019 Single Vineyard Petit
Verdot (Uruguay). Cool, lightly green
aromas of violet petal, juniper berry, tarragon
pleasing acidic lift. The balance is impressive plentiful barrel accents. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. and berry fruits open this Petit Verdot. Varietally
throughout. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $20 typical flavors of herbs, peppercorn, black plum
abv: 13.4% Price: $20 and black currant finish with gripping tannins that
make for a dry final act. Pacific Highway Wines &
Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30

90 Bodega Garzón 2019 Single Vineyard Tannat
(Uruguay). Initial aromas of milk chocolate
and cotton candy are fluffy and sweet, while in due
90 Dauvergne & Ranvier 2018 Grand Vin
(Crozes-Hermitage). Opening notes of bay
leaf, thyme and bramble lend a prominent herbal
90 Landmark 2018 Dierberg Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Aromas of black plum,
boysenberry and violet are strong on the nose of
time this settles on bold berry and plum scents. A quality to this wine that dissipates with aeration this bottling. The palate’s flavors are also booming
dry, pulling palate features grippy tannins, while to reveal bristling blackberry and raspberry flavors. and bold, full of ripe dark berries, with a layer of
this Tannat tastes of plum, mixed berries and plenty Voluptuous and rounded on the palate yet accented underlying baking spice to cut the heaviness. —M.K.
of oak. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. by a zesty acidic spine, it’s a softly tannic, warming abv: 14.3% Price: $60
abv: 13.5% Price: $30 red that’s at peak now through 2028. LGI Wines.
—A.I.
abv: 14% Price: $30
90 Landmark 2018 Hop Kiln Estate Pinot Noir

(Russian River Valley). This is a sultry,
90 Castoro Cellars 2019 Estate Grown Merlot

(Paso Robles). Freshly smashed black-
raspberry, cherry and boysenberry aromas meet 90 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Semi-Dry Riesling
(Finger Lakes). Rich aromas of tangerine
brooding red wine, exuberant in black cherry,
black tea, forest floor and rose petal. With a supple
backbone of integrated tannin and toasted oak, it
with light smoke and crushed granite on the and apricot meld with sharper tones of lime and reaches a velvety finish of cola that accentuates its
complex nose of this bottling. The palate is firmly thyme on the nose. There’s nice weight and depth full-bodied style and enduring richness. —V.B.
structured to balance the ripe red-cherry flavors, to the medium-bodied palate, where juicy yet pithy abv: 14.5% Price: $40
which are boosted by hickory and roasted tomato orchard fruit flavors are propped up by zesty acidity.
accents. —M.K. While fruity in nature, the balance is there, making
abv: 13.5% Price: $20 this easy to enjoy as an aperitif. —A.P.
abv: 12% Price: $17
90 LangeTwins 2018 Macotera 09 Vineyard

Barbera (Clements Hills). Smooth and fla-
vorful, this full-bodied, single-vineyard wine feels
elegant on the palate, braced by the varietal’s typi-
90 Cuvaison 2018 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Los

Carneros). Light and delicate in layers of
90 Hess Collection 2018 Allomi Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Blended with
small amounts of Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Merlot
cal tangy acidity. It offers an attractive cherry flavor
accented by light oak spices. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $32
strawberry and blood orange, this well-made wine and Malbec, this likable pour offers perfumed
is wrapped in silky tannins. Fresh, crisp acidity red fruit and bright acidity within a full-bodied,
boosts the earthiness and lasting notes of baking integrated core of smooth texture. A background of
spice. —V.B. herbal notes complements the dense black cherry
abv: 14% Price: $42 and blackberry core. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.4% Price: $36
WINEMAG.COM | 97
BUYINGGUIDE
90 Louis M. Martini 2018 Merlot (Napa Valley).

Thick and concentrated in black cherry and
plum, this wine is also generous in oak and tannin.
Accents of leather, crushed rock and dark chocolate
complement it well. —V.B.
90 Lubanzi 2020 Chenin Blanc (Swartland).
There’s a vibrant floral element to the
bouquet of this pretty white, with supporting
90 Rava 2017 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). Oregano and peppercorn
aromas make for an herbal introduction to the nose
abv: 15.2% Price: $85 tones of freshly cut pear, peach and white melon. of this bottling, which also features dried berry and
The palate is medium-full in feel, with a lovely olive elements. Smoothed-out tannins frame flavors
rose-spiked peach accent that carries across the of leather, dried berry and coffee bean on the palate,
palate and is then refreshed by ample acidity. The which has a creamy mouthfeel. —M.K.
finish ends clean and refreshing, with very good abv: 13.9% Price: $30
lingering vibrancy. Cape Venture Wine Co. Editors’
Choice. —L.B.
abv: 12.5% Price: $18
90 Louis M. Martini 2017 Meritage (Napa Val-

ley). Sticky tannins wrap around a core of
leather, mocha and toasted oak in this blend of 60%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Malbec and 6% each of
Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Brooding
notes of blackberry and plum add to the intense
mix. —V.B.
abv: 15.1% Price: $65 90 Shannon Ridge 2019 High Elevation
Collection Chardonnay (Lake County).
Although full in body, this richly textured wine
90 Murrieta’s Well 2019 Sauvignon Blanc

(Livermore Valley). Subtle earth and
mineral aromas lead to nicely crisp, flinty flavors in
keeps its flavors and mouthfeel in good balance.
Tangy acidity and ripe pear and apple flavors join
light butter and baking-spice notes that demand
this well-balanced, tangy and medium-bodied wine. further sipping. —J.G.
Those flinty characteristics don’t steal the show, abv: 13.8% Price: $23
while an attractive savory touch also unfolds on the
palate and finish. —J.G.
abv: 14.7% Price: $19
90 Louis M. Martini 2017 Monte Rosso Vineyard

Mountain Red (Sonoma Valley). This red
from a mountain site is a blend of 65% Syrah, 23%
Petite Sirah and 12% Grenache. It is hearty in fla-
vors of smoked meat and oak, with a burly core of 90 Myka 2019 Chardonnay (Central Coast).
Restrained on the nose, this bottling offers
black fruit, iron and crushed rock. —V.B.
abv: 15.4% Price: $65
citrus peel and pith, with tight alkaline and dried
earth aromas. There is a clean, chalky grip to the sip,
where the baking-soda-like minerality frames white
90 Ziata 2018 Chardonnay (Carneros). Steely
and floral, with an underlying minerality of
wet stone, this cool-climate white is restrained in
fleshed fruit and more citrus-pith flavors. Editors’ nature. The fruit is a mix of green apple, pear and
Choice. —M.K. mango, with a finish of subtle baking spice. —V.B.

BEST BUYS BEST BUYS
89 Cannonball 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon

(California). This concentrated, firmly
tannic wine packs plenty of black cherry and
blackberry flavors in a rich, gripping texture. A full
body and deep black-fruit flavors will make it pair
92 Gnarly Head 2019 Merlot (Central Coast).
This widely available bottling impresses on
multiple levels, beginning with a ripe and rugged
90 Hahn 2019 GSM (Arroyo Seco). This is an
extremely satisfying wine for a very afford-
able price. Aromas of lavender, lilac, incense and
well with big proteins. —J.G. nose of boysenberry, cherry, leather, iodine and dark plum lead into a grippy palate of açaí, Concord
abv: 13.5% Price: $16 smoke. There’s compelling texture to the sip, where grape and more potpourri flavors. Best Buy. —M.K.
smoked meat, mocha and coffee flavors sink into the abv: 14.5% Price: $14
deep, dark fruit. Best Buy. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $12
89 Girasole 2019 Charlie’s Blend Red Wine

(Mendocino County). This fruity, generous
and smooth-textured wine is a crowd-pleaser. Fresh
and nicely saturated black-cherry and blackberry
flavors fill the palate, backed by ultrasmooth 90 Brotte 2018 Création Grosset (Cairanne).
This robust, fragrant red introduces itself
89 7 Cellars 2019 The Farm Collection Cabernet
Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Black cherry,
cola, vanilla and a pinch of dried herbs show on the
tannins. —J.G. with spiced plum and violet perfumes. A Grenache- nose of this ripe yet layered bottling. There’s enough
abv: 14.5% Price: $16 dominant blend augmented by Syrah, Mourvèdre tension on the palate to frame the dark-fruit and
and Carignan, it’s packed with ripe, penetrating herb flavors. Best Buy. —M.K.
red-cherry and strawberry flavors that are lifted abv: 14.5% Price: $14
BEST BUYS by a bristling mineral crush. Enjoy through 2024.
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 15% Price: $15
92 Chronic Cellars 2019 Suite Petite Petite

Sirah (Paso Robles). A dense cassis aroma
88 Castle Rock 2019 Chardonnay (Central
Coast). Light aromas of apple blossom,
honeysuckle and wet stone make for a pleasant nose
manages to be both ripe and balanced by floral
undertones on the nose of this affordable offering.
Hearty flavors of black currant and blueberry are
90 Chronic Cellars 2019 Sir Real Cabernet
Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This is a
completely satisfying wine, beginning with black
in this widely available bottling. There’s decent
tension to the sip, where a chalky mouthfeel carries
lime tonic and citrus-blossom flavors, as well as
spiced by caramel, vanilla and mace, providing a cherry, vanilla, oak, dried oregano and mint on the riper hints of plumeria and coconut. Best Buy.
thorough experience. Best Buy. —M.K. nose. The body is fairly light, but has just enough —M.K.
abv: 14% Price: $15 tannic bones to frame those ripe cherry and roasted abv: 13.5% Price: $10
berry flavors, with a savory line of smoke down the
middle. Best Buy. —M.K.
abv: 14.3% Price: $15
WINEMAG.COM | 99
BUYINGGUIDE
BEST BUYS BEST BUYS SPIRITS
88 Simply... 2018 Chardonnay (Columbia

Valley). Aromas of star fruit, pineapple and
85 Kirkland Signature 2020 Ti Point Sauvignon
Blanc (Marlborough). This Sauvignon offers
gentle aromas of grapefruit, lime leaf and bell pep-
yellow apple lead to straightforward fruit flavors.
It’s a pleasing expression of the variety without any
apparent oak influence. Best Buy. —S.S.
per, with a delicate weight to the palate. Overall, it’s
a fruity, straightforward and easy to like drop. DC
Flynt MW Selections. Best Buy. —C.P.
94 Germain Robin XO Select Barrel Alambic
Brandy (USA; Germain Robin, Modesto, CA).
This bold, complex brandy resounds with chocolate,
abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 12.5% Price: $7 dried cherry and spice on nose and palate. Each sip
opens with delicate ginger, pink peppercorn and
cinnamon, underscored by drying leather, walnut
SPIRITS and unsweetened chocolate. Apricot leather lends a
mouthwatering quality to the finish.
88 William Wright 2019 Chardonnay (Monterey

County). Creamy aromas of Meyer lemon
poached in butter and cashew show on the nose of
this bottling. There’s a light lime-tonic aspect to the
sip as well as an almond-cream richness, leading
98 Germain Robin California Alambic Brandy
Aged 7 Years (USA; Germain Robin, Modesto,
CA). This is made with California grapes, distilled
into a dried lemon-rind finish. Best Buy. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $8
and aged in the style of Cognac. It’s stunning from
start to finish. Vanilla and baked apple richness give
way to lots of deep, dusty cocoa and a hint of wal-
93 El Jimador Reposado Tequila (Mexico; Brown-
Forman, Louisville, KY). Complex aromas of
wet earth, vanilla, jalapeño and campfire ash entice
nut, finishing lightly with a lively flurry of baking the nose. The palate opens with vanilla, transition-
spice and a faint note of dried apricot. ing to a peppery midpalate and finishing long, with
abv: 40% Price: $75 delicate violet, coconut, black pepper and cinnamon
notes. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $21
87 Oak Grove 2020 Family Reserve Winemaker’s

Rosé (California). Ample peach aromas and
fresh apple flavors give a lot of fruitiness to this
light-bodied, very pale-pink wine. Its freshness and
crisp texture are charming. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 12% Price: $9 94 El Tequileño Reposado Rare Tequila (Mexico;
Park Street Imports, Miami, FL). This
reposado is rested six years in American oak (more
than required for reposado), yet because it was aged
in a vessel larger than the 600-liter maximum, it
92 Cazcanes No. 7 Reposado Tequila (Mexico;
Park Street Imports, Miami, FL). Lemon curd
and vanilla entice the nose. The rounded palate
still gets to bear the reposado label. The liquid offers matches the sweetness of the aromas, suggesting
distinctly sweet aromas of vanilla, maple and dried lemon cream pie, vanilla cream and vanilla wafers,
fig. The palate echoes those tones, layering on clove, though it braces up into the finish, drying slightly
allspice and cayenne. with white pepper and cinnamon sparks.

SPIRITS BEER BEER
92 El Tequileño Reposado Gran Reserva Tequila

(Mexico; Park Street Imports, Miami, FL).
100 Wibby Volksbier Vienna (Vienna Lager;
Wibby Brewing, CO). With a luxurious
mouthfeel that slowly brings on layers of nuts,
93 Wibby Lightshine Radler (Shandy; Wibby
Brewing, CO). For those light, warm after-
noons where you’re craving a beer but also some
Close your eyes, and you might confuse this Tequila warmed caramel and a subtle spiciness from noble fruity refreshment, turn to this jaunty, delightful
for a light whiskey. The aroma is light and slightly hops, this Vienna lager is of remarkable quality. radler. Bursting with orange pulp, lemon peel, over-
sweet, with an almond-like hint. The palate shows Often beers in this category are too sweet, but here ripe melon and a touch of candied red berries, it’s
concentrated vanilla, finishing assertive and spiced the recipe brings bitterness into the equation for crisp at the front and tart on the finish.
with cinnamon and clove. balance. Still, it finishes dry, with only a touch of abv: 4.5% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack
abv: 40% Price: $57 light brown sugar on the finish.
abv: 5.5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack
91 El Tequileño Reposado Tequila (Mexico; Park

Street Imports, Miami, FL). Bold tomato, 91 Four City The Keg Stand American Style
Lager (American Lager; Four City Brewing Co.,
lemon peel and honey lead the nose. The palate
opens on the sweeter side, with coconut, vanilla
and lemon cream leading into a zesty, mouthwater-
98 Zero Gravity Green State Lager (Pilsner; Zero
Gravity Craft Brewery, VT). Crisp and bright
in a pine and citrusy hop profile, this beer is well
NJ). This lager has a medium body, assertive crisp
yeast character, a slight whiff of hops and adjunct-
accented construction that is great for a long night
ing finish that shows ginger and white pepper heat. balanced by a delicately sweet and cereal-forward of enjoyment. In a fine stemmed glass, a red Solo
Best Buy. malt profile. An everyday lager that is far from being cup or right from the tap nozzle, this beer won’t let
abv: 40% Price: $29 one note, it evolves on the palate over time without you down.
demanding attention. abv: 5.5% Price: $16/16 oz 4 pack
90 ArteNOM Selección de 1414 Reposado

Tequila (Mexico; Haas Brothers, Oakland,
CA). Look for a pale straw hue and aromas that min-
gle dried oregano with a touch of honey. The palate
is light and relatively restrained. An initial savory
94 Haymarket Chicago Tavern Beer Lager
(Lager; Haymarket Beer Co., IL). Golden in
color and clear in the glass, this has an assertive
90 Wibby Lightshine Helles (Helles; Wibby
Brewing, CO). This is a grain-forward helles,
with a green hop note that appears on the aroma
note opens to mild almond and vanilla sweetness, head and a balanced ingredient profile that offers and follows through to the palate. Floral and earthy
plus fleeting tropical fruit juiciness in the back, sweet malt, low hop bitterness and a crisp, refresh- hops join the mix and last through the finish. It’s
exiting with peppery tingle. Aged four months in ing nature. a patio beer, where pints would be well at home
used American oak. abv: 5.5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack alongside a plate of nachos.
abv: 40% Price: $55 abv: 5.5% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack
WINEMAG.COM | 101
BUYINGGUIDE
acidity. The fruit lingers on the finish but with
substantial lift. —A.P.
abv: 12% Price: $20
91 Atwater 2016 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Ripe
aromas of white grape, pear and sugar-
dusted blossoms carry the nose of this semisweet
cherry. There’s ample perfume and lift to it all, with
a lingering talc dust finish. —A.P.
abv: 10.7% Price: $26
white. The palate is boisterous and juicy in lemon,
92 Hermann J. Wiemer 2019 Semi-Dry Riesling

(Seneca Lake). Ripe mango, papaya and
pineapple jump from the glass, with zesty notes of
pineapple and white grape flavors yet shot through
with pulsing acidity. There’s excellent depth and
richness, with a lingering zestiness that leaves you
91 Weis 2019 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes).
Bright aromas of lemon and lime peels meld
with white flowers and pear rind in this zesty dry
tangerine and lime lending focus to all that richness. coming back for more. Editors’ Choice. —A.P. Riesling. There’s good weight to the medium-bodied
It’s luscious on the palate but well defined. The abv: 10.4% Price: $17 palate, with persistent juicy orchard fruit flavors
blend of juicy tropical fruit and pithy citrus plays propped up by driven acidity. A gentle stoniness
well together, with a lingering tart pineapple note
extending on the finish. Editors’ Choice. —A.P.
abv: 11% Price: $18
91 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Margrit Dry Riesling
(Finger Lakes). For full review see page 94.
abv: 12% Price: $35
creeps in on the midpalate to ground it all, ending
with a slightly pithy mouthwatering finish. —A.P.
abv: 12% Price: $18
92 Keuka Spring 2019 Humphreys Vineyard

Riesling (Finger Lakes). Perfumed aromas
of peach, apple and pink grapefruit show incredible
91 Hosmer 2019 Semi-Dry Riesling (Cayuga
Lake). Perfumed aromas of peach, apple
and ginger mix with a citrus spray accent on the
91 Weis 2019 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes).
Pretty aromas of apple, peach and white
blossoms meld with a lifted citrus backdrop in this
zest and spunk on the nose. The medium-bodied nose. There’s a succulence to the gushing peach, semidry wine. It’s rounded and juicy in feel on the
palate is dry in style, with bright, zesty pome pineapple and lemon flavors on the palate, with a palate, with bright orchard fruit flavors shot against
and tangerine flavors wrapped in a delicate floral gentle creaminess throughout, but all the while held sunny acidity. There’s good drive and length, with a
undertone. There’s a creaminess to the feel that in check by pristine acidity. This is a well-balanced zesty, mouthwatering finish that leaves you coming
gives this great presence and length on the finish. offering that will please many with its affable back for more. —A.P.
Editors’ Choice. —A.P. personality. Editors’ Choice. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $18
92 Red Newt Cellars 2017 Tango Oaks Vineyard

Noble Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Made 91 Keuka Spring 2019 Classic Riesling (Finger
Lakes). Jasmine and orchard blossom aromas
90 Anthony Road 2019 Dry Riesling (Finger
Lakes). Intense aromas of lime peels, fresh
thyme and kerosene carry to the medium-bodied
from grapes at an Auslese level of ripeness and then perk up the nose of this semidry Riesling. It’s zesty palate. A slightly candied citrus peel flavor chimes
fermented nearly dry, this offers an explosion of and crisp on the palate, where juicy peach and in, but a pithy texture and a savory note of crushed
pineapple, star fruit, mango and grapefruit on the pineapple flavors explode with sunny intensity. salt lend ample balance. It ends dry, savory and
nose. It’s full and rich in feel on the creamy palate, There’s lift and verve to it all, balanced by lime- lifted, delivering a zesty Riesling that will play well
with billowy tropical fruit flavors honed by a pithy tinged acidity. —A.P. at the dinner table. —A.P.
citrus peel note. It ends slightly hot but still within abv: 11% Price: $17 abv: 12% Price: $18
balance, making this a unique experiment from
Winemaker Kelby Russell. —A.P.
abv: 14.8% Price: $48/500 ml 91 Keuka Spring 2019 Wiltberger Vineyard
Riesling (Finger Lakes). Aromas of radish and
jicama give a fresh, earthy vibe to the nose, with
90 Bedell 2019 Small Batch Series Corey Creek
Vineyard Riesling (North Fork of Long
Island). A delicate perfume of peach blossom, apple
92 Red Newt Cellars 2015 Tango Oak Vineyard

of apple and Meyer lemon meld with a delicate
a resounding lemon note at the core. The semidry
palate offers sweet-tart flavors of apple, lemon and
peach, with pithy grapefruit lending grip. There’s
and citrus spray gently wafts from the glass. There’s
focus to the zesty citrus and pome fruit flavors on
the light-bodied palate, with a mild pithy texture
oolong tone on the nose of this dry Riesling. There’s nice lift and length on the finish that leaves you lending grip. This dry Riesling deftly balances juicy
a rounded, pithy feel to the palate, where flavors of coming back for more. —A.P. fruit in a taut frame. —A.P.
lemon, apple and apricot are wrapped in a mild grip abv: 11.2% Price: $22 abv: 11.5% Price: $25
of white tea tannins. This is a beautifully textured,
pristine expression from a relatively young vineyard
planted in 2007. —A.P.
abv: 12.1% Price: $24
91 Living Roots 2019 Off-Dry Riesling (Finger
Lakes). Brisk aromas of crushed slate and
lime meld with creamy pear on the nose of this off-
90 Buttonwood Grove 2019 Riemer Block
Riesling (Finger Lakes). Ripe apple and
sugar-dusted flowers dance on the nose alongside
dry Riesling. There’s ample weight to the palate, candied citrus and ginger. The medium-dry palate
92 The Grapes of Roth 2019 Dry Riesling (Long

Island). Perfumed aromas of lime peel,
crushed stone and white blossoms dance on the
where pithy citrus and yellow apple flavors are
honed by a zesty lime-laden core. —A.P.
abv: 13.2% Price: $26
boasts a rounded feel, with juicy orchard fruit
flavors lifted by shots of grapefruit and tangerine.
This shows nice lift and length. —A.P.
nose of this graceful dry Riesling. There’s a real abv: 12% Price: $20
sense of energy to the zippy palate, where zesty
citrus peels mix with a tangy limestone element.
While taut in feel, there’s a pleasing textural grip
91 Silver Thread 2019 Dry Riesling (Finger
Lakes). Rounded aromas of yellow apple,
Meyer lemon, peach and white tea offer a graceful 90 Buttonwood Grove 2019 Tank Select
Riesling (Finger Lakes). Rounded apple and
that grounds it all. —A.P. start to this dry-style Riesling. There’s an explosion lemon flavors perfume this semidry wine. There’s
abv: 12.1% Price: $26 of perfumed peach and pineapple on the palate, ample lift, thanks to bright, zesty acidity, with
sitting on a silky texture and pushed along by a delicate white tea accent lending some grip. A
91 Anthony Road 2019 Semi Dry Riesling (Finger

Lakes). Perfumed aromas of lime, peach and
apple meld with a stony core on the nose. The palate
pristine acidity. This is a well-concentrated, zesty
pour. —A.P.
abv: 10.9% Price: $18
drizzle of honey chimes in on the finish, making this
a luscious yet balanced sweeter Riesling. —A.P.
abv: 12% Price: $17
shows pollen-dusted orchard fruit drizzled in a light
string of honey, balanced by ample bright acidity.
There’s very good concentration and lift to it all, with
a lingering white blossom note on the finish. —A.P.
91 Silver Thread 2019 Estate Vineyard Riesling
(Seneca Lake). A delicate floral note rides
above the juicy apple and peach core on the nose
90
abv: 12%
Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Semi-Dry Riesling
(Finger Lakes). For full review see page 97.
Price: $17
abv: 12% Price: $17 of this wine. While deft in feel, it shows rounded
pome fruit flavors shot through with tangy white

90 Fjord 2019 Riesling (Finger Lakes). There’s
nice density to the aromas of lime peel,
canned peach and fresh snap peas on the nose of
CALIFORNIA
palate, where buttered toast and marmalade flavors
are framed by hints of oak and fresher citrus. —M.K.
abv: 14.2% Price: $45
this semidry Riesling. The medium-bodied palate CHARDONNAY
echoes the nose, with a lemon-honey drizzle
chiming in. It ends lifted and juicy in a zesty bite of
tangerine. —A.P. 94 Calera 2018 Chardonnay (Mt. Harlan). For
full review see page 86.
94 Sanford 2017 Founders’ Vines Chardonnay
(Sta. Rita Hills). Tight aromas of Meyer
lemon skin, sea salt and a hint of alkaline-dusted
abv: 11.2% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $55 toast make for a compelling entry to the nose of this
bottling. Polished tannins make for a very grippy yet
90 Hunt Country Vineyards 2017 Reserve

Riesling (Finger Lakes). This semidry
Riesling offers a deft mix of juicy apple and peach
94
page 86.
Caraccioli 2018 Escolle Vineyard Chardonnay
(Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see
suave sip, offering poached lemon, light brioche and
macadamia nut flavors. —M.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $70
tones against a delicate white tea accent. Zesty abv: 14% Price: $35
orange-laden acidity lifts it all up, making this a
well-balanced offering. —A.P.
abv: 12% Price: $25 94 Crescere 2017 Proprietary Chardonnay
(Sonoma Coast). A mix of baking and Asian
94 Sangiacomo 2018 Green Acres Vineyard
Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For full
review see page 88.
spices lead the way to a light, crisp palate of vibrant abv: 14% Price: $65
90 Keuka Spring 2019 Semi-Sweet Riesling

(Finger Lakes). Luscious peach, apricot
and pineapple aromas carry to the full-feeling
acidity in this lengthy, complex and impressive
white wine. The energy gives into a creamy mid-
palate of understated richness and fruit tones of 94 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2018 Arcadia
Vineyard Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This is
palate. The mix of stone and tropical fruit flavors green apple and pear. —V.B. an earthy, herbal and supple white wine, impressive
is delicious, with vibrant acidity lending ample lift. abv: 14.4% Price: $80 in spicy lemon and pear. Lively, vibrant acidity keeps
Sweet fruit echoes on the lingering finish. —A.P. it fresh and compelling around mineral elements of
abv: 10.3% Price: $17
94 Ken Brown 2018 Radian Vineyard Chardonnay
(Sta. Rita Hills). Lightly buttered orange
stone as it builds a depth of balanced body weight and
breadth, the oak well integrated and nuanced. —V.B.
90 Lakewood 2019 Riesling (Finger Lakes).

This is a well-balanced semidry Riesling
slices, warm brioche and sharp tangerine-peel
aromas show on the nose of this bottling from an
abv: 14.2% Price: $65
that offers juicy tones of apple and yellow peach,

lifted by lots of lemony zing. There’s a richness to
the fruit but also nice lift that gives this a crisp,
epic and dramatic vineyard. It’s very suave on the
94 Thomas Fogarty 2017 Anna Cristina’s Block
Langley Hill Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa
Cruz Mountains). Creamy aromas of toasted nut met
refreshing finish. Best Buy. —A.P.
abv: 12.2% Price: $15
90 Sheldrake Point 2019 Dry Estate Bottled

of peach, apple and lemon meld with a delicate pine
oil backdrop in this dry Riesling. There’s ample
concentration and verve to the juicy orchard fruit
on the palate, with a pithy texture and zesty acidity
lending balance. It’s a delicious offering from this
Cayuga Lake estate. —A.P.
abv: 11.1% Price: $16
90 Wagner 2019 Dry Estate Bottled Riesling

(Finger Lakes). Zesty aromas of apple peel,
lime zest, grapefruit and slate show nice depth and
intensity on the nose of this dry Riesling. It’s juicy
yet crisp on the palate, with a deft feel to the bright
orchard fruit flavors. It ends racy and clean on a
crushed mineral tone. Best Buy. —A.P.
abv: 11.9% Price: $15
90 Wagner 2019 Semi Dry Riesling (Finger

Lakes). Rounded aromas of peach and
apple show ample concentration on the nose. The
palate is bright in juicy orchard fruit flavors, with
a tangy, pithy lemon peel note grounding it all. It
ends brisk and zesty, making this easy to enjoy as an
aperitif. Best Buy. —A.P.
abv: 12% Price: $15
WINEMAG.COM | 103
BUYINGGUIDE
with honeysuckle, lemon peel and chiseled granite
show on the nose of this block designate from vines
planted at nearly 2,000 feet in 1980. It’s well rounded
encased in caramel brioche and notes of nutmeg and
cinnamon. —V.B.
abv: 14.6% Price: $60
92 Two Sisters 2017 Courtney’s Vineyard
Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review
see page 94.
on the palate, where flashes of tart apple and lemon abv: 14.3% Price: $50
peel are wrapped in sandy tannins. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $80 92 Fess Parker 2019 Chardonnay (Santa
Barbara County). For full review see page 93.
Editors’ Choice. 92 Vine Cliff 2018 Chardonnay (Los Carneros).
Reductive at first, this wine opens to reveal
93 Chalone Vineyard 2019 Estate Grown

Chardonnay (Chalone). For full review see
abv: 13.5% Price: $19 floral aromas of apple blossom and earth. Crunchy
and austere in style, it shows a steely structure
page 89. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.4% Price: $30 92 GoGi 2018 Goldie Chardonnay (Sta. Rita
Hills). Soft and creamy aromas of peach and
apricot meet with daffodil and honeysuckle on the
and bright acidity throughout, cradled in a well-
integrated nuance of French oak. —V.B.
abv: 13.8% Price: $50
93 Thomas Fogarty 2017 Langley Hill Vineyard

Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains).
Aromas of butter-braised lemon and grapefruit,
delicate but full nose of this bottling by actor Kurt
Russell, named for his wife, Goldie Hawn. The sip
is surrounded in a chalky grip, offering fresh and 92 Vine Cliff 2018 Proprietress Reserve
Chardonnay (Los Carneros). Opening in a
light spearmint and a hint of butterscotch candy generous flavors of white peach and cream. —M.K. wealth of baking-spice and apple-blossom aromas,
show on the nose of this bottling. The palate is abv: 14.3% Price: $50 this white has tingly acidity and impressive
lively with textural activity, as a lime-pith tension structure: the ripeness balanced and well-integrated
and chalky, ashy tannins lead through grapefruit-
flesh flavors into an intense finish. —M.K.
abv: 13.9% Price: $62
92 Lightpost 2019 Spanish Springs Vineyard
Reserve Chardonnay (San Luis Obispo
County). Dried lemon, grapefruit flesh, apple slices
with the oak and intensity. Old World grace comes to
mind throughout, with a steely, earthy finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.2% Price: $65
and lemongrass meet with steely minerality on
93 Thomas Fogarty 2017 Portola Springs

Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Cruz
Mountains). From a vineyard planted in 1982 at an
the nose of this bottling. The sip is zesty and fresh
with lime-peel and lemon flavors. A solid sea-shell
minerality adds to the energetic experience. —M.K.
92 Wolff 2019 Old VInes Chardonnay (Edna
Valley). There’s a streak of stone on the nose
of this bottling before the toasted macadamia nut,
elevation of nearly 2,000 feet, this bottling begins abv: 14.2% Price: $39 baked apricot and lemon-balm flavors come through.
with briny aromas of lemon and lime peel as well There’s a zesty flash to the sip of lemongrass, yuzu,
as a beach-sand and oyster-shell minerality, and a
white-flower aspect. The palate is sharp and intense
in texture, with energetic flavors of seared lemon
92 Seabold Cellars 2018 Pelio Upper Block
Chardonnay (Monterey). Rich hints of
lightly seared marshmallow, meringue and peach
Mandarin peel and lime, with warmer marzipan
tones on the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14% Price: $28
peel and warm toast wrapped up very tightly. Drink custard are cut by dried lemon peel and hazelnut
now through 2037. Cellar Selection. —M.K. aromas on the nose of this bottling. The palate is
abv: 12.2% Price: $62 very grippy in texture, with strong lemon-peel SOUTH AFRICA
acidity and stony minerality leading into a nuttier,
PINOT NOIR
92 Artesa 2018 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay
(Los Carneros). With an entry that is oak-
butterscotch-touched finish. —M.K.
abv: 13.4% Price: $45
driven in caramel and toast, this wine is layered and
moderately structured, with fresh bursts of white
peach and apple that shine a light on the underlying 92 Stephen Ross 2018 Bee Sweet Vineyard
Chardonnay (Edna Valley). Hints of coconut,
94 Storm 2018 Ridge Pinot Noir (Hemel-en-
Aarde Ridge). An aroma of lightly toasted
oak gives way to scents of brambly berry, raspberry
acidity. That freshness endures and lifts the lemony meringue and light nectarine make for a suavely sauce and cherry pie on the nose of this enticing
finish. —V.B. integrated nose on this bottling. It’s pure and crisp Pinot. The palate is medium in weight and satiny in
abv: 14% Price: $38 on the palate with citrus-peel and tart apple flavors, feel, with more ripe red fruit tones that are framed
leading into warmer spices on the finish. —M.K. by plush but structured tannins and ample acidic
92 Assiduous 2019 Bald Mountain Vineyard

Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains).
abv: 13.8% Price: $42 lift to keep the finish bright. Baking spice and forest
floor tones grace the enduring finish, along with a
Aromas of baked apple with sea salt and soft,
clarified butter show on the delicate nose of this
bottling. The wine lands softly on the palate, where
92 Thomas Fogarty 2017 Chardonnay (Santa
Cruz Mountains). Light meringue and
sweet cream aromas meet with floral tones of lily,
touch of sweet orange oil. Broadbent Selections,
Inc. —L.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $60
crisp Asian pear elements are layered with more plumeria and a bit of vanilla on the nose of this
baked apple and a light brush of cinnamon, all
wrapped in creamy tannins. —M.K.
abv: 13% Price: $30
appellation blend. The wine grabs hold of the palate
with a steely grip, offering tense while fresh flavors
of lime blossom and citrus peel. —M.K.
93 Storm 2018 Ignis Pinot Noir (Upper Hemel-
en-Aarde Valley). A pronounced earthy, cocoa
nib character wafts from the glass, while further
abv: 13.5% Price: $38 nosing unveils layers of ripe cherry, boysenberry and
92 Bougetz 2018 Parched Chardonnay (Sonoma

Coast). This is a barrel-fermented white
that opens in high-toned lemon and floral apple 92 Thomas Fogarty 2017 Albutom Vineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). There’s
plum flesh. The palate is smooth and supple in feel,
with juicy, concentrated red fruit flavors that partner
with vibrant acidity to yield a bright, mouthwatering
blossom—the oak and oomph subtle despite its full- a distinct aroma of wet chalk, wool and even labneh finish that transitions into flavors of cocoa-dusted
bodied ripeness. Grapefruit, green apple and toast on the nose of this bottling (from a vineyard planted cherry skin, forest floor and tree bark on the back.
do a good job of complementing the brightness and in 1981), which begins to open to lemon and warmer Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B.
tang of the fruit. —V.B. cream, with patience and air. The chalky texture of abv: 13.5% Price: $60
abv: 14.5% Price: $25 the sip is incredibly compelling, framing mellow lines
92 Cuvaison 2018 ATS Estate Grown Chardonnay

(Los Carneros). Named for the winery’s
of lemon and melon rind. Expect these elements to
coalesce into something stunning with time. Drink
now through 2032. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
93 Storm 2016 Ridge Pinot Noir (Hemel-en-
Aarde Ridge). There’s a stony, earthy, almost
granitic aspect to this wine’s aroma, grounded by
founding family, this white is floral, textured and abv: 13.7% Price: $72 forest-spiced blueberry and boysenberry tones. The
oak laden, with dense layers of pineapple and stone palate is plush and velvety in feel, with medium
fruit. Made in a hearty, creamy style, the fruit is tannins and ample acidity that match the fruit

intensity in perfect tandem. The finish is medium in easy to enjoy now, but should hold well through aromas of wild strawberry, cherry and a touch of
length and currently fruit-driven, though the earthy 2026. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. snappy currant, hit by glimmers of crushed rose
elements underneath suggest further evolution and abv: 13.5% Price: $55 petals and dried fynbos. The palate is well-balanced
maturation to benefit. Drink after 2024. Broadbent and medium in body, although ample acidity keeps
Selections, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $55 91 Hamilton Russell 2018 Pinot Noir (Hemel-
en-Aarde Valley). There’s a spicy character
to the nose of this robust red, with notes of clove
the fruit in check and lends verve to carry it all
through to the long, mouthwatering finish. Vineyard
Brands. —L.B.
93 Storm 2016 Vrede Pinot Noir (Hemel-en-

Aarde Valley). Pronounced black and rooibos
and whole peppercorn riding atop the crunchy
cranberry, rhubarb and currant fruit profile. The
abv: 13% Price: $53
tea characteristics drive the nose of this earthy, herbal

wine, with supporting tones of dried red cherry and
raspberry as a fruity accompaniment. It’s medium
palate is tense and sprightly in feel, with more of
the same bright red fruit flavors, ample acidity and a
moderate tannic structure that suggests this would
90 Thorne & Daughters 2018 Copper Pot Pinot
Noir (Western Cape). There’s a pretty, lifted
mentholated herb and fynbos top note to the nose
in feel, like crushed silk, with fine yet supportive benefit from some time to further mature and of this wine, with underlying characteristics of
tannins that lend pleasant grip to the palate and carry harmonize. The medium-length finish offers plenty crisp cherry and red currant. The palate is bright
through to the earthy, tea-centric finish that brings of tannic grip and fruit-skin flavors. Enjoy through and well-balanced, with ample red fruit flavors
you back to that first sniff. It’s a lovely, complex 2028. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. that are partnered with bright acidity and fine yet
package. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $53 structuring tannins. This should continue to evolve
abv: 13.5% Price: $55 well over the medium term. Drink after 2023. Vine
92 Ataraxia 2016 Pinot Noir (Hemel-en-

Aarde Ridge). Lovely cocoa and sweet-
90 Tesselaarsdal 2019 Pinot Noir (Hemel-en-
Aarde Ridge). Just ripe red cherry and
raspberry flavors waft from the glass of this vibrant
Street Imports. —L.B.
abv: 13% Price: $27
spice characteristics ride atop a nose of ripe red pour, while a touch of cola spice adds depth in the
raspberry, cherry and wild strawberry. It smells background. The palate is light and fruit-forward, CHILE
plush and seductive on first pass, but the palate with pronounced acidity that yields a lively,
offers a refined sip of harmonious just-ripe fruit, refreshing sip that remains clean and bright through CARMENÈRE
ample acidity and superfine yet subtly structuring the medium-length close. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.
tannins. It all fits together in wonderful harmony
and is ready to be enjoyed now, though it should
abv: 13% Price: $57
93 Santa Carolina 2018 Herencia Carmenère
(Peumo). Saucy blackberry and tomato
continue to drink well through 2025. Red Wolf
Imports. —L.B.
abv: 13% Price: $48
90 Tesselaarsdal 2018 Pinot Noir (Hemel-en-
Aarde Ridge). This opens with direct fruit
aromas include a touch of green herbs and spice.
The palate is full and deep, with tartaric acidity
92 Cap Maritime 2018 Pinot Noir (Upper

Hemel-en-Aarde Valley). From winemaker
Marc Kent, this wine opens with a beautifully
concentrated bouquet, redolent of wild berries,
Old World Values. New World Vision.
black cherry and bramble from the start. Waves
Votto Vines wishes our valued partners
of forest floor, church incense and spicy fynbos
undulate atop and lend a distinct earthy quality both home and abroad a safe, happy
throughout. The palate is medium in weight, and prosperous 2021.
with medium-intense blue and black fruit tones
partnered to a pronounced acidic lift that lends
vottovines.com
precision and focus. It finishes long and evolving,
and the wine should mature well through 2027.
Vineyard Brands. —L.B.
abv: 14% Price: $54
92 Creation 2018 The Art of Pinot Noir (Walker

Bay). There’s a lovely vibrancy to the nose
of this light and ethereal red, with scents of tart
cherry, raspberry and currant alongside accents
of clove-spiked orange, rooibos and spiced rose
water. The palate is light and silky in feel, with
pronounced acidity and a tart-fruit character that
carries through to the bright yet lingering finish.
Cape Ardor LLC. —L.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $65
92 Storm 2016 Ignis Pinot Noir (Upper Hemel-

en-Aarde Valley). Aromas of forest floor,
dried hibiscus, macerated strawberry and cherry
form the nose of this attractive Pinot, with delicate
baking spice accents lingering in the back. It’s light
Jasci & Valle de Pins Castelli di Cousin Pete’s Hidden Vines Shaken Awaken Poggio Stella
and satiny in feel, with pronounced acidity that lifts Marchesani Provence Rose' 2020 Grevepesa Bathtub Gin Napa Valley Marlborough Vino Nobile di
90pts, Int'l Craft Gin distilled Cabernet 2016 Sauvignon Blanc 2019 Montepulciano 2015
the earthy red fruit flavors and carries them through Organic Montepulciano
Wine Report
Clemente VII Chianti
in Long Island, NY 92pts, Int'l Wine Report 90pts, Tastings.com 93pts, James Suckling
d'Abruzzo 2019 Classico Riserva 2015
with mouthwatering drive to the lingering close. It’s 95pts, Luca Maroni 93pts, Wine Spectator
WINEMAG.COM | 105
BUYINGGUIDE
creating controlled bite. Spiced black plum and finish. Drink through 2026. Vias Imports. Editors’ on a finish that tastes tomatoey, earthy and herbal.
blackberry flavors finish with notes of herbs and Choice. —M.S. Drink through 2022. Via Pacifica Imports. —M.S.
pepper offset by chocolate, making this an ideal big- abv: 14% Price: $60 abv: 14% Price: $40
boned Carmenère to drink through 2026. Carolina
Wine Brands USA. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $100 93 Casas del Toqui 2018 Court Rollan Filius
Blend de Blends (Cachapoal Valley). Ripe
black plum and berry aromas are full and heady,
91 TerraNoble 2018 Lahuen (Central Valley).
Spicy berry aromas are lightly green and
herbal, which is in accordance with Chilean norms.
91 Errazuriz 2018 Max Reserva Carmenère

(Aconcagua Valley). The spicy blackberry
aroma has an herbal edge and is lifted by a hint of
while this blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon along
with Carmenère and Syrah is brightened by healthy
acidity. Spicy yet fully ripe berry and currant flavors
A dense palate is on the thick and creamy side, with
chewy tannins. Herb, blackberry, plum and cassis
flavors are heavy and jammy on the finish. Drink
lemony oak, while this is racy and not the least bit are backed by earthy tomato and tobacco notes on now. MundoVino–Winebow. —M.S.
lazy or heavy. Tomatoey plum, berry, peppery spice, a smooth finish. Drink through 2023. Via Pacifica abv: 14% Price: $45
chocolate and licorice flavors span a wide spectrum, Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
while this is comported and balanced through the abv: 14% Price: $45
finish. If you like honest Carmenère, this is for you. RHÔNE VALLEY
Drink through 2024. Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20 93 Errazuriz 2017 Don Maximiano Founder’s
Reserve (Aconcagua Valley). Patented
Chilean aromas of herbas, blackberry and dark
RED WINES
CÔTE-RÔTIE
90 Chono 2018 Single Vineyard Carmenère
(Colchagua Valley). Oaky blackberry
plum are spicy and feature a fair amount of oak and
related wood smoke. On the palate, this Cabernet
aromas include notes of holiday spice cake and
damp earth. On the palate, this Colchagua Valley
Carmenère leans forward due to lively acidity.
Sauvignon-driven blend is juicy and high in energy.
Plum, currant and wild berry flavors maintain
a sense of freshness on the finish. Overall, this is
95 Château de Saint-Cosme 2018 Côte-Rôtie.
Notes of char, iron and tobacco leaf accent
penetrating black-cherry and cassis flavors in this
Blackberry and dark plum flavors include herbal showy and complex. Best from 2022 to 2030. muscular expression of Côte-Rôtie. Produced from
green notes that make this taste saucy prior to a Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.S. 100% whole-cluster Syrah and matured twelve
steady and lively finish. Drink now through 2025. abv: 14% Price: $112 months in 30% new French oak, it’s a weighty,
Regal Wine Imports Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. intensely structured red framed by firm, gripping
abv: 14% Price: $15
93 Vik 2017 Milla Cala Millahue (Cachapoal
Valley). For full review see page 91. Editors’
tannins and a delicately earthen, meaty finish.
While nervous in youth it should hit peak from 2023
90 TerraNoble 2018 Gran Reserva Carmenère

(Maule Valley). Blackberry, baking spice
and meaty aromas are devoid of the green vegetal
Choice.
abv: 14% Price: $45
and improve another decade still. Craft+Estate–
Winebow. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $95
notes that often are part of the Carmenère package.
A lush palate offers a sense of freshness, while this
tastes of chocolaty oak, blackberry and cassis in
92
page 92.
Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2018 Baronesa
P. (Maipo Valley). For full review see
95 Maison Denuzière 2018 J. Denuzière (Côte-
Rôtie). Notes of schist and iodine meld
front of a creamy finish, where chunky stickiness abv: 14% Price: $50 into sprays of violet and rose petal in this vibrant,
is a factor. Drink now–2025. MundoVino– perfumed Syrah. Matured for 15 to 28 months in
Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $18 92 Siegel 2017 Unique Selection Los Lingues
(Colchagua Valley). A warm nose features a
mixture of cheesy oak, brambly spice, foresty hints
large-format casks, it offers a rich core of raspberry-
coulis and red-currant flavors struck by crisp acidity
and very fine, mouthcoating tannins. The finish
88 Aresti 2018 Trisquel Gran Reserva Carmenère

(Curicó Valley). Earthy berry aromas are
minty and rubbery like a rubber band. A medium-
and bold black fruit scents. The palate on this blend
of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Syrah is
flush, with gravelly tannins and some heat. Balsamic
lingers on a subtle kiss of smoke and cedar. While
approachable now, it should gain nuance through
2030 and hold further. Boutique Wine Collection.
bodied palate is a touch choppy, while spicy plum dark-berry flavors show hints of eucalyptus and Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
and berry flavors are saucy in a way that’s normal juniper, while a flavor-packed finish rumbles along abv: 13.5% Price: $99
for the variety. A short finish with touches of on the heels of grating tannins. Drink through 2026.
tomato and fennel closes this out. Vinamericas
Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $20
Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $44 95 Maison Les Alexandrins 2018 Côte-Rôtie. For
full review see page 85. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.1% Price: $89
91 Andes Plateau 2018 700 High Altitude

(Chile). Plum, tomato and peppery spice
94 Jean-Luc Colombo 2018 La Divine (Côte-
RED BLENDS aromas amount to a medium-weight nose. On Rôtie). Sourced from 50-year-old vines of
the palate, this Cabernet Sauvignon blend offers co-planted Grenache (95%) and Viognier (5%),
94
abv: 15%
Santa Carolina 2017 VSC (Cachapoal Valley).
For full review see page 88. Editors’ Choice.
Price: $35
tomatoey punch, while saucy berry, plum and
tomato flavors are take on an herbal edge before
petering out on a composed but slightly soft finish.
this piercing, peppery wine showcases concentrated
flavors of redcurrant jelly and blackberry pastilles.
Matured 18 months in oak barrels (15% new), it’s
Drink now. Via Pacifica Imports. —M.S. a weighty, structured red anchored by zingy acidity
93 Bodega Volcanes de Chile 2017 Ígneo

(Central Valley). A tightly built nose deals
abv: 13.6% Price: $60 and subtle strikes of crushed earth, smoke and
iron. At peak from 2023–2030, the wine is likely
pointy aromas of tobacco, green herbs, eucalyptus
and black fruits, all common scents for Chile’s best
red wines. What makes this different than most is
91 Casas del Toqui 2018 Court Rollan Genus
Alto Totihue Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah
(Cachapoal Valley). Herbal and berry aromas are
to hold further. Taub Family Selections. Cellar
Selection. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $92
that it’s a blend of Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot, saucy and a touch green, with hints of baking spice.
a marriage rarely seen. Racy acidity and gripping
tannins give this all the structure it needs, while
spicy flavors of herb, blackberry and chocolaty
This Cabernet Sauvignon blend includes 12% Syrah
and feels full, saturated and dense. Plum, currant,
tomato and herbal flavors are common for Chile,
94 Vidal-Fleury 2017 Brune et Blonde (Côte-
Rôtie). This perfumed, smoky Syrah (with
just a dusting of Viognier) highlights the duality
oak turn ever so slightly more green on a powerful while this shows some oak grain and mild oxidation of grapes matured on the light-hued gneiss and

silica soils of the Côte Blonde alongside the darker
clay and schist soils of the Côte Brune. Fresh-
footed yet supple cassis and raspberry flavors are
92 Château de Saint-Cosme 2018 Saint-Joseph.
Black raspberries and flecks of violet candy
perfume this feather-edged Syrah. It’s pillowy soft in
smoke and cedar. Just approaching peak now, the
wine should improve through 2030 at least. Total
Wine & More. —A.I.
etched by shards of stone and acid. Matured three mouthfeel but accented by streaks of cassis acidity abv: 13.5% Price: $75
years in a combination of new and older oak, it’s a and a subtly smoky, granite finish. Approachable
subtly spiced red that finishes on lingering notes of
licorice and soft, feathery tannins. Best now–2027.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I.
in youth, the wine will improve through 2028 and
hold further. Craft+Estate–Winebow. —A.I.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40
94 E. Guigal 2016 Hermitage. Penetrating and
finessed, this 100% Syrah highlights ripe
yet cutting blackberry and cherry flavors against
abv: 13.5% Price: $85 a firm backdrop of graphite and crushed stone.
93 Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux 2018

La Chana (Côte-Rôtie). Crushed granite
92 Domaine Louis Chèze 2017 Anges (Saint-
Joseph). Inflections of vanilla bean, char and
sweet-spice are prominent but meld into succulent
Matured 36 months in oak barrels (50% new), it
offers lavish tobacco-leaf and licorice notes that
integrate neatly into the palate. Silkier in tannins
and charred cloves accent bright, luminescent black-currant and mulberry flavors in this silky, than the 2015 vintage, the wine is approachable
blackberry and raspberry in this perfumed medium-bodied Syrah. Matured 22 months in now but should improve well through 2035. Vintus
co-fermentation of Syrah (93%) and Viognier new oak, it’s a lavish but elegantly structured LLC. —A.I.
(7%) matured primarily in old demi-muid barrels. wine marked by pert acidity and a swathe of fresh abv: 13.5% Price: $85
It’s consistently a more delicate, sylph-like wine green herbs framing the finish. Ready now the
compared to the producer’s more robust Côte-Rôtie
offerings, but one that drinks beautifully young.
Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I.
wine should drink well through 2027. Wine Wine
Situation. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $79
93 Vidal-Fleury 2017 Hermitage. Blackberry
and elderberry notes are concentrated but
restrained in this classically earthen, salt-edged
abv: 13.5% Price: $80 Syrah. Accented by a whiff of violet and fur, it’s a
92 Maison Denuzière 2018 J. Denuzière (Saint-

Joseph). This stony, deeply mineral Syrah
shyer expression of Hermitage than is typical in
these increasingly hot, sun-drenched vintages, but
SAINT-JOSEPH balances crisp cassis and black-cherry flavors one that would welcome a few more years to let its
against a deeply earthen core. It’s opulent in texture subtleties develop. It’s best to wait till 2023. The
94 Domaine des Remizières 2018 Saint-Joseph.

Sun-drenched blackberry and cassis flavors
are accented by hints of vanilla and olive tapenade
but stately, uplifted by tangs of salt, iron and granite.
The finish is framed by soft, easing tannins making
it approachable young but it should drink at peak
wine should improve through at least 2030 and
hold further. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $90
in this full-bodied, voluptuous Syrah. It’s a richly through 2026. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.I.
extracted red matured for 12 to 16 months in a abv: 14% Price: $35
combination of new and one-year-old oak but CROZES-HERMITAGE
maintains a fresh, mineral spine and lifting acidity
HERMITAGE
throughout. It’s ready now but should drink well
through 2028. French Libation. —A.I. 93 Domaine des Remizières 2018 Cuvée
Christophe (Crozes-Hermitage). Sprays
abv: 14.5% Price: $38
97 Delas Frères 2018 Les Bessards (Hermitage).
Les Bressards is a single-vineyard selection
of cinnamon, clove and cedar accent plush black
currant and blueberry in this varietal Syrah sourced
94 Domaine Jolivet 2018 L’Instinct (Saint-

Joseph). A whisper of tar lends an earthen,
smoky undertone to sultry black-currant and plum
limited to 6,000 majestic bottles in any vintage
it’s produced. Made from 100% Syrah, its black-
cherry coulis and crème de cassis flavors are spicy,
from vines averaging 65 years in age. Matured 15
months in a combination of new (70%) and one-
year old (30%) oak barrels, it’s a rich, sultry wine
flavors in this 100% Syrah. Matured 12 months in marked by hits of scorched anise and peppercorn. shaded by crushed stones, smoke and licorice. Ripe,
used-oak barrels, it is weighty and powerful, packed Anchored by zesty acidity and a bristling mineral silky tannins make it ready to enjoy now but this
with black fruit and a sylph-like frame of acidity. undertow, it’s a structured red wrapped in tannins structured wine should improve through 2030.
Soft, silky tannins make it immediately enjoyable that feel feel fierce now but should meld from 2023. French Libation. —A.I.
but it should improve well through 2030. Monsieur The wine will improve well through 2035 and hold abv: 14.5% Price: $38
Touton Selection Ltd. —A.I. much longer still. Maisons Marques & Domaines
abv: 14.5% Price: $40 USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 15.5% Price: $290 92 Château de Saint-Cosme 2018 Crozes-
Hermitage. Fresh sprays of granite and
93 Cave de Tain 2018 Nobles Rives (Saint-

Joseph). Pristine cassis and veins of
granite introduce this classic but muscular Saint- 96 Delas Frères 2018 Domaine des Tourettes
(Hermitage). Prominent veins of crushed
salt accent bristling redcurrants and cherries in
this fresh, mouthdrenching Syrah. Full bodied yet
invigorating on the midpalate, it’s a pure-fruited
Joseph. It’s intensely ripe but bristles with acidity. granite and tar shadow rich, decadent flavors of but deeply mineral wine. Fine, supple tannins make
Concentrated black-fruit flavors are shaded by black-currant jam and licorice in this 100% Syrah it ready to drink now but the wine should stay at
whispers of violet, crushed peppercorns and earth. sourced from three different sites within Hermitage peak through 2028. Craft+Estate–Winebow. —A.I.
It’s ready to enjoy now but should improve through (including the estate’s flagship Les Bessards). While abv: 14.5% Price: $36
2030. Total Wine & More. —A.I. tannins are ripe, it’s a charry, piquantly spiced wine
abv: 14% Price: $30 in youth that finishes on peppery hits of clove, dark
chocolate and espresso shavings. It’s best to wait till 92 Delas Frères 2018 Domaine Des Grands
Chemins (Crozes-Hermitage). Piercing
93 Yannick Alléno & Michel Chapoutier 2018

Croix de Chabot (Saint-Joseph). Shards of
iron and black pepper juxtapose powerfully ripe
2023 to open but the wine should improve through
2035 at least. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA.
Cellar Selection. —A.I.
flavors of cassis and blueberry are edged by granite,
sweet spice and smoke in this full-bodied Syrah.
Matured 14 months in a combination of tank
black-plum and mulberry flavors in this inky Syrah. abv: 15% Price: $99 and used Burgundian barrels, it’s weighty and
It’s a deeply extracted expression of Saint-Joseph substantial on the palate yet vibrantly balanced
but anchored neatly by bristling acidity and fine,
supple tannins. At peak now–2028. Sera Wine
Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
94 Cave de Tain 2017 Nobles Rives (Hermitage).
Earthy chestnut skin and schist juxtapose
black currant and black-cherry menthol in this
and mineral too. The finish lingers on fine-grained,
delicately gripping tannins. At peak now–2028.
Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —A.I.
abv: 14.5% Price: $38 solidly built, pure-fruited Syrah. Full bodied yet abv: 14% Price: $42
lifted in acidity, it finishes on elongated tones of
WINEMAG.COM | 107
BUYINGGUIDE
92 Domaine Combier 2018 Crozes-Hermitage.
Sun-kissed and fruity, this plummy Syrah
offers ripe blueberry and black-plum flavors held
delivering bright red cherry, orange zest, licorice
and white pepper framed in taut, refined tannins.
Bright acidity keeps it superbly balanced and fresh.
97 Canalicchio di Sopra 2016 Brunello di Montal-
cino. Intense aromas of underbrush, wild
berry, new leather and pipe tobacco lead the way
upright by a striking acidic spine. It’s full bodied It’s already drinking beautifully but hold for even on this fragrant Brunello. Full bodied and elegantly
and opulent yet vivacious and spry. Finishing long more complexity. Drink 2024–2036. Empson USA structured, the savory palate features ripe morello
on fine, silky tannins, crushed stone and peppery Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O. cherry, licorice and truffle before a black-tea
spice, it’s best enjoyed now through 2026. Cape abv: 14.5% Price: $112 finish. Firm, refined tannins and fresh acidity
Classics. —A.I. keep balanced and give it an ageworthy structure.
abv: 14.2% Price: $42
99 Le Potazzine 2016 Brunello di Montalcino.
Earthy aromas of blue flower, rose, under-
Drink 2024–2036. Vinifera Imports. Cellar
Selection. —K.O.
91 Cave de Tain 2018 Grand Classique (Crozes-

Hermitage). Hints of black olive and char
brush and leather mingle together on this gor-
geous, fragrant red. All about finesse and flavor,
abv: 14.5% Price: $90
lend savory undertones to brisk black currant

and mulberry in this wine. Delicately spiced and
supple in mouthfeel, it’s a fruity but structured
the medium-bodied palate is absolutely delicious,
featuring juicy Morello cherry, crushed raspberry,
baking spice, star anise and the barest hint of game.
97 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2016 Brunello di
Montalcino. Red-berry, wild-rose, crushed
mint and dark-spice aromas are front and center
Syrah accented by zesty red-cherry acidity and fine, It’s radiant and beautifully balanced thanks to taut, on this fragrant red. The full-bodied palate is
penetrating tannins. The finish lingers on notes polished tannins and bright acidity. It’s already concentrated but also boasts finesse, offering layers
of coffee bean and dried bramble. Hand Picked showing incredibly well but hold for even more of raspberry jam, smooth licorice and tobacco
Selections. —A.I. complexity. Drink 2022–2036. Skurnik Wines, Inc. alongside a backbone of enveloping, velvety tannins.
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Cellar Selection. —K.O. You’ll also detect the warmth of alcohol but the
abv: 14% Price: $139 succulent fruit stands up to it. Drink 2024–2036.
91 Domaine des Remizières 2019 Crozes-

Hermitage. Whispers of eucalyptus and
charred clove lend spice to black-currant and cherry 98 Argiano 2016 Vigna del Suolo (Brunello di
Montalcino). For full review see page 83.
Indigenous Selections. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 15% Price: $75
flavors in this 100% Syrah sourced from vines

averaging 45 years in age. Matured 15 months in a
combination of new and used oak, it’s full bodied
Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5% Price: $200 97 Livio Sassetti 2016 Pertimali (Brunello di
abv: 14.5% Price: $90
and deeply concentrated but maintains freshness
and vitality. Delicious now the wine should hold
well through 2029. French Libation. —A.I.
98
page 83.
Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2016 Pianrosso
(Brunello di Montalcino). For full review see
97 San Polino 2016 Brunello di Montalcino.
Made with organically grown Sangiovese and
abv: 14.5% Price: $23 abv: 15% Price: $100 fermented with wild yeasts, this fragrant, earthy red
has intense aromas of rose petal, forest floor, new
91 Ravoire et Fils 2018 Olivier Ravoire (Crozes-

Hermitage). Sun-scorched underbrush and
iron juxtapose blackberry and plum in this fleshy,
98 Gianni Brunelli 2016 Brunello di Montalcino.
Fragrant, focused and loaded with finesse,
this stunner has enticing scents of rose petal,
leather, woodland berry and balsamic whiffs of
camphor. Full bodied and savory, the palate doles
out juicy Marasca cherry, blood orange, licorice and
full-bodied Syrah. It’s a fresh-fruited, juicy wine camphor, tilled earth and perfumed berry. Vibrant tobacco alongside bright acidity and a backbone
elevated by an upright acidic spine and lingering and savory, the chiseled palate delivers juicy red of noble tannins. It’s still youthfully austere, with
notes of granite and iodine. Ready to drink now, cherry, pomegranate, star anise and savory mineral great aging potential. Drink 2026–2046. T. Edward
the wine should hold well through 2025. Wine framed in taut, refined tannins. Bright acidity keeps Wines Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
Warehouse Imports. —A.I. it radiant and balanced. Drink 2024–2041. de abv: 14.5% Price: $70
abv: 13.5% Price: $31 Grazia Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
BRUNELLO DI
abv: 14% Price: $85
97 Talenti 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. Focused
and loaded with finesse, this opens with
MONTALCINO
98 Il Marroneto 2016 Brunello di Montalcino.
Perfumed, focused and loaded with energy,
this radiant red boasts enticing scents of iris, rose,
enticing aromas of menthol, graphite, rose and
forest floor. Full bodied and delicious, the linear,
energized palate features ripe Marasca cherry,
crushed mint and wild berry. Boasting ethereal licorice, mint and vanilla before a coffee-bean finish.
2016 VINTAGE elegance as well as intensity and flavor, the chiseled Firm, polished tannins and fresh acidity provide
palate has great fruit purity, delivering juicy red support. Drink 2024–2036. Wolfpack Worldwide
100 Il Marroneto 2016 Madonna delle Grazie

(Brunello di Montalcino). For full review
see page 83. Cellar Selection.
cherry, spiced cranberry, star anise and white
pepper. Noble tannins and bright acidity provide
balance and an ageworthy framework. Drink 2024–
LLC. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $50
abv: 14.5% Price: $350 2046. LLS–Winebow. Cellar Selection. —K.O.

abv: 14% Price: $100 96 Argiano 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. For
full review see page 84. Editors’ Choice.
100 Le Chiuse 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. For

full review see page 83. Cellar Selection.
97 Altesino 2016 Montosoli (Brunello di
abv: 14.5% Price: $65
abv: 14.5% Price: $99 Montalcino). Rose, forest berry, underbrush

and new leather are some of the aromas you’ll find 96 Armilla 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. From
one of Montalcino’s little-known gems of
99
abv: 14%
Conti Costanti 2016 Brunello di Montalcino.
For full review see page 83. Cellar Selection.
Price: $119
on this full-bodied red. From one of Montalcino’s
greatest vineyard sites, the firmly structured,
elegant palate is also delicious, boasting ripe black
an estate, this radiant, savory red opens with entic-
ing aromas of woodland berry, rose, new leather and
camphor. It’s savory and supremely elegant, deliver-
cherry, raspberry compote, tobacco and licorice ing juicy Marasca cherry, strawberry compote, star
99 Fuligni 2016 Brunello di Montalcino.

Enticingly fragrant, this opens with heady
aromas of rose, violet, new leather, truffle and
set against taut, fine-grained tannins. It’s well
balanced, with bright acidity. Drink 2024–2036.
LLS–Winebow. —K.O.
anise and baking spice framed in taut, polished tan-
nins. Drink 2024–2036. Omniwines Distribution.
Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
balsamic whiffs of camphor. Vibrant and focused, abv: 14.5% Price: $120 abv: 14.5% Price: $70
the chiseled, elegant palate is all about finesse,

96 Banfi 2016 Vigna Marrucheto (Brunello di
Montalcino). The newest addition to Banfi’s
Brunello lineup, this single-vineyard offering boasts
Full bodied and elegantly structured, the palate
offers juicy red cherry, French oak, vanilla and
star anise alongside polished, fine-grained tannins
out dried black cherry, blackberry jam and licorice
before a baking-spice close. Drink 2022–2028.
T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O.
firm structure, finesse and radiance. Aged in large and fresh acidity. Drink 2026–2036. Polaner abv: 14.5% Price: $NA
French casks, it opens with enticing aromas of blue Selections. —K.O.
flower, menthol, forest floor and star anise. On the
full-bodied palate, tightly wound, fine-grained
abv: 14.5% Price: $185
96 Altesino 2015 Riserva (Brunello di Montal-
cino). Red-berry, wild-mint, graphite
tannins accompany juicy Marasca cherry, blood
orange, licorice and a hint of espresso while fresh
acidity keeps it balanced. Still young and primary, it
96 San Polino 2016 Helicrysum (Brunello di
Montalcino). Aromas of berry, new leather,
rose and licorice waft out of the glass on this
and rose aromas lead the nose on this fragrant,
stunning red. Elegantly structured, the linear palate
delivers juicy red cherry, cranberry, licorice and a
shows great aging potential and needs time to fully firmly structured wine. On the assertive palate, hint of tobacco while polished tannins and fresh
develop. Drink 2026–2041. Banfi Vintners. Cellar drying, close-grained tannins weave through dried acidity provide balance. Drink 2022–2028. LLS–
Selection. —K.O. cherry, star anise, toasted nut and roasted coffee Winebow. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA bean. Made with organically farmed grapes, it also abv: 14.5% Price: $130
undergoes spontaneous fermentation with wild
96 Caprili 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. Classic

Sangiovese aromas of wild berry, forest
floor, rose and new leather waft out of the glass
yeasts. It’s still young and bracing so give it time to
fully develop. Drink 2026–2036. T. Edward Wines
Ltd. —K.O.
96 Banfi 2015 Poggio all’Oro Riserva (Brunello
di Montalcino). Forest-floor, new leather
and pipe-tobacco aromas mingle with notes of violet
along with whiffs of camphor. Delicious and smooth, abv: 14.5% Price: $80 and coffee bean. Elegantly structured, the taut,
the elegantly structured palate features ripe wild savory palate doles out ripe black cherry, blackberry
cherry, blood orange and licorice alongside polished
tannins. It’s well balanced, with fresh acidity—what
a fantastic showing. It’s already accessible but
96
abv: 14%
San Polo 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. For
full review see page 84. Editors’ Choice.
Price: $65
jam, licorice and a hint of espresso while polished,
fine-grained tannins and tangy acidity provide age-
worthy support. It’s still youthfully austere so give
will age well for years to come. Drink 2022–2031. it a few more years to come around. Drink 2024–
Polaner Selections. —K.O. 2036. Banfi Vintners. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $56 2015 VINTAGE abv: 14% Price: $200
96 Lisini 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. Inviting

aromas of ripe wild berry, baking spice
and Mediterranean herb are front and center along
98 Conti Costanti 2015 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). Aromas of ripe dark-skinned
fruit, forest floor, rose and wild mint shape the
96
abv: 14%
Caparzo 2015 Riserva (Brunello di Montal-
cino). For full review see page 84.
Price: $80
with a whiff of blue flower. Full bodied and vibrant, enticing nose. Elegantly structured and full of
the savory palate features ripe Marasca cherry,
star anise and nutmeg framed in noble tannins.
Bright acidity provides freshness and balance. Give
flavor, the linear, focused palate delivers mature
Marasca cherry, blood orange, licorice and tobacco
set against a backbone of refined tannins. Drink
96 Fuligni 2015
abv: 14.5%
Riserva (Brunello di
Price: $205
this time to fully develop and you’ll be rewarded. 2023 though 2035. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O.
Drink 2026–2046. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Cellar
Selection. —K.O.
96 Villa Poggio Salvi 2015 Riserva (Brunello di
abv: 14.5% Price: $86
97 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2015 Vigna di
Pianrosso Caterina d’Oro Riserva (Brunello di
abv: 15% Price: $95
96 Podere Le Ripi 2016 Cielo d’Ulisse (Brunello

di Montalcino). New leather, truffle, ripe
berry and camphor aromas form the nose along with
Montalcino). Fragrant, full bodied and refined, this
opens with aromas of new leather vanilla, baked
plum and camphor. The palate shows an enviable
95 Castelgiocondo 2015 Ripe al Convento
Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Pipe
tobacco, spiced plum, menthol and blue flower are
a whiff of pressed rose and game. Full bodied and combination of structure, finesse and length, some of the aromas you’ll find on this enveloping
delicious, the enveloping palate doles out mouthfuls doling out raspberry jam, ripe black cherry, vanilla wine. Full bodied and savory, the structured, gen-
of cherry marinated in spirits, crushed raspberry, and licorice enveloped in firm, refined tannins. erous palate combines muscle and finesse, doling
licorice and hints of seasoned meats alongside Indigenous Selections. —K.O. out fleshy morello cherry, raspberry jam, licorice
velvety tannins. It’s concentrated but also boasts an abv: 15% Price: $150 and a dollop of vanilla alongside velvety tannins.
almost weightless elegance. Drink 2023–2031. Dark It’s already approachable but will age well for sev-
Star Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: NA Price: $60 97 Gianni Brunelli 2015 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). Underbrush, ripe red-fruit,
sandalwood and menthol aromas all come together
eral years or more. Drink through 2028. Shaw-Ross
International Importers. —K.O.
96 Poggio Antico 2016 Brunello di Montalcino.

Classic Sangiovese aromas of underbrush,
wild berry and new leather mingle with whiffs of
in the glass on this gorgeous wine. Full bodied and
delicious, it boasts a weightless concentration,
delivering ripe black cherry, vanilla and licorice 95 La Gerla 2015 Gli Angeli Riserva (Brunello
di Montalcino). New leather, forest floor
camphor. Supremely elegant, the focused palate before a tobacco finish. Firm, refined tannins and ripe woodland-berry aromas make their way
shows precision and great energy, featuring juicy provide support while fresh acidity keeps it to the forefront together with whiffs of violet and
red cherry, pomegranate, white pepper and black balanced. Drink 2025–2035. de Grazia Imports, pipe tobacco. Full bodied and firmly structured,
tea set against chiseled, refined tannins. Vibrant LLC. Cellar Selection. —K.O. the palate offers finesse and concentrated
acidity keeps it balanced while a salty mineral abv: 14.5% Price: $130 flavors including crushed raspberry, morello
note lingers on the close. Fantastic showing. Drink cherry, licorice and truffle framed in tightly knit,
2026–2041. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Cellar
Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $74
97 San Polino 2015 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). Made with organically farmed
grapes and fermented with wild yeasts, this delicious
polished tannins. Drink 2023–2030. Slocum &
Sons, Inc. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $120
wine has balsamic aromas of camphor that mingle
96 Salicutti 2016 Teatro (Brunello di Montal-

cino). Camphor, perfumed berry, violet
and sandalwood aromas come to the forefront.
with new leather, blue flower and spiced plum.
Generous and enveloping, the full-bodied palate
is full of flavor and already approachable, doling
95 Padelletti 2015 Riserva (Brunello di
abv: 14.5% Price: $120
WINEMAG.COM | 109
BUYINGGUIDE
SPIRITS
whiskey hybrid. The liquid is tawny and bright, with
aromas that suggest fresh apple drizzled with honey.
The palate continues the orchard fruit, reading
more like baked pear, leading into a distinctly nutty
midpalate that starts with almond richness, then
drying walnut. The finish is wonderfully bracing,
Reposado Tequila: the happy middle ground with citrusy acidity and faint jalapeño heat.
abv: 40% Price: $50
F
rom barely oaked to showing lots of deep, that previously held single-malt whiskey. The
rich flavor, reposado Tequila can express
a myriad of personalities. The category
end result: a Tequila that drinks remarkably like
a mellow whiskey. And Lobos Reposado PX is
93 Antaño Reposado Tequila (Mexico; Distiller
Sales, Princeton, MN). Zesty jalapeño tickles
the nose. The palate opens with a pleasant rush of
occupies a unique space in the middle of finished in Pedro Ximénez Sherry casks, which vanilla and tropical fruit, giving way to a fleetingly
the aging range, with the spirits rested in oak add honeyed richness. sweet and slightly numbing finish that suggests
Cubeb peppers, pink peppercorns and jalapeño.
barrels from two months to one year. If the distinguishing characteristic of a
abv: 40% Price: $40
Many of the reposados tasted in this recent reposado is how long it ages, what does it say
batch are on the lighter side that some producers find ways
of the oak spectrum, yielding around that restriction? For 93 Arette Artesanal Suave Reposado Tequila
(Mexico; T. Edward, New York, NY). This
Tequilas that are lean rather The category example, the Lobos Reposado Tequila offers mild roasted agave and lime peel
aromas. The soft palate opens with earthy almond
than lush. That easier hand occupies a unique PX mentioned above is blended
and cocoa tones, perked up with lime-peel zing and
means that herbaceous, mineral-
space in the middle with a touch of longer-aged clove heat. Best Buy.
like and fruity or vegetal notes extra añejo Tequila. See also the abv: 40% Price: $35
shine through in a lively way.
of the aging range, El Tequileño Reposado Rare,
with spirits rested
A number of producers are
working on the opposite end in oak barrels from
which ages for a full six years
in American oak—longer than
93 PaQui Reposado Tequila (Mexico; Tequila
Holdings, New York, NY). This Tequila drinks
like a blanco, with just the mildest mellowing
of the spectrum and creat-
two months to many extra añejos. Yet, because influence from the oak. It’s savory and fresh, faintly
ing reposados with more pro- it’s aged in a vessel larger than perfumed like tomatoes and bell peppers ripening
nounced oak presence, like
one year. the 600 liter maximum, it still in the sun. The palate echoes the bell pepper hint,
interesting cask selections that gets to bear the reposado label. layering accents of fresh herbs and jalapeño against
a flicker of nuttiness on the midpalate. Each sip
add complexity. For example, Kostiv ages its It’s an odd loophole.
ends drying, brisk and citrusy.
reposado for six months in barrels that previ- So which reposado to choose—a longer- abv: 40% Price: $65
ously held Cabernet Sauvignon, which lends oaked version that exhibits plenty of vanilla and
nutty, fruity tones. Elsewhere, Partida’s Roble
Fino expression spends six months in ex-Bour-
spice, or a less-oaked version that’s citrusy and
bright? Luckily, there’s room for both types on 92 Corralejo Reposado Tequila (Mexico;
Infinium Spirits, Aliso Viejo, CA). Coconut
and pineapple play lightly on the nose and palate,
bon casks, then another two months in barrels the shelf. —Kara Newman
interwoven with richer hints of vanilla sweetness.
The brisk, mouthwatering finish adds peppery,
citrusy zing. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $26
96 Ocho Reposado Tequila (Mexico; Samson

& Surrey, Miami, FL). This lively, bright
Tequila will please purists. A light hand with the
94 El Gran Jubileo Reposado Tequila (Mexico;
Capita Spirits, Highland Beach, FL). Vibrant
yellow in the glass, this Tequila takes a minute
92 Lobos Reposado PX Tequila (Mexico; Park
Street Imports, Miami, FL). This Tequila is
aged 6 months in American oak, then finished in
oak means a straw hue and brisk aromas of jalapeño to open, morphing from mild almond to a deeper PX Sherry casks and blended with a touch of extra
and citrus. The palate melds flavors of bell pepper, vanilla scent. The palate feels light, almost slick, añejo Tequila. The end result is rich, honeyed tones
fresh rosemary and roasted jalapeño that lead into and echoes that almond and vanilla profile at first, with a bit of savory edge. Cooked agave and coconut
mild coconut and graphite notes on the midpalate, before growing more complex in lemon verbena, aromas lead the nose, while the palate opens with
finishing with a fresh herb exhale. lemongrass and hints of pine and tarragon. A dry- distinctly peppery vibes. Bell pepper and jalapeño
abv: 40% Price: $55 ing, elongated finish is accented by a white pepper segue into clove, cayenne, coconut and vanilla.
tingle. Aged 11 months. Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $48
95 La Gritona Reposado (Mexico; T. Edward,

New York, NY). Look for a pale straw hue
abv: 40% Price: $34
92 Partida Roble Fino Reposado Tequila

and fruity/funky aromas. The palate offers distinct
tropical fruit notes, opening with lychee and a faint
floral hint, plus a faint waft of ripe-banana funk
94 El Tequileño Reposado Rare Tequila (Mexico;
Park Street Imports, Miami, FL). For full
review see page 100.
(Mexico; Tequila Partida, Oakland, CA). A
minimum six-month rest in ex-Bourbon barrels
followed by another 2 months in ex-single malt
midpalate. The finish is long and drying, showing abv: 40% Price: $225 casks has draped this Tequila in rich finery. Look for
grapefruit peel and pink peppercorn. Sip or mix into a deep golden hue and savory aromas that suggest
Palomas. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $31 94 Kostiv Reposado Tequila (Mexico; Park
Street Imports, Miami, FL). Aged 6 months
in charred barrels that previously held Cabernet
fresh tomato. The bold palate opens with Sherry,
dried dates, golden raisins and candied ginger. The
long finish is laced with creamy caramel.
Sauvignon, this drinks almost like a Tequila- abv: 40% Price: $100

saltiness that quickly dissipate, this pilsner is crisp
BEER
and satisfying. It’s a session beer that lifts the spirt
without weighing you down.
abv: 5.4% Price:$3/500 ml
98 Green Bench Postcard Pils (Pilsner, Green

Bench Brewing, FL). Some pilsners are light
Lagers worth the effort and airy, acing discernable flavors or aromas, meant
as alcohol refreshment. Then there are pilsners like
I
this one that bring a knowledgeable respect by a
f there is a bright spot in the beer space amid with beers with quicker turn arounds.
brewery to the bar top. This has all the hallmarks
the pandemic, it is that small-production Early craft brewing entrants to the lager of classic pilsner—depth, sweet malt and slightly
brewers were afforded the time to make and space shied away from making bland light spicy hops—but it’s all tuned into a finer point. It’s
age proper lagers. American pilsners or European-hop forward for relaxing days on vacation or in the yard where
The craft beer industry in America was built lagers. They turned to Vienna lagers with you’re at ease, but not looking to drift off.
on the backs of ales. Hop-forward India pale bready, sweet malt profiles or tried their hands
ales, roasted stouts and hefeweizen were put on on more robust styles, like dunkels. Today’s
offer by the early craft brewers small breweries are embracing 98 KC Bier Pure Pils (German-style Pilsner; KC
Bier Co., MO). As its name suggests, this
lager is pure through and through. It’s wonderfully
to help differentiate themselves those styles, making lagers and
from the larger breweries that As the pandemic pilsners that are low in alcohol, refreshing, with a pillowy bready malt character
accented by spicy hop notes. A crisp yet yeasty finish
cornered the market. closed taprooms, and use adjunct ingredients like
and a soft water character encourages swallows by
When it comes to small
...many brewers corn and rice. Some are not-so- the gulp.
breweries in America today, ales subtly trying to remind con- abv: 4.8% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack
are still the primary focus and
took the sumers of those large, well-
opportunity to use
largely pay the bills. They can be
brewed, fermented and released fermentation tanks
established brands.
Ashleigh Carter, the brewer
97 New Glarus Two Women (Lager; New Glarus
Brewing, WI). In a state where lagers loom
large by consumers, Two Women stands tall. This
within a few days. Lagers on the
for lagers. at Bierstadt Lagerhaus in Den- lager pours medium gold in color, with a fluffy
other hand need several weeks in ver likes to say that lager is white head. A semisweet malt content is balanced
tanks to properly mature. They on a 150-year winning streak. by earthy, slightly spicy noble hops. With a thirst-
need time to develop desirable flavors and drop Carter, who is making some of the most pop- quenching quality and a slightly grainy finish, this
lager is a reliable go-to.
out particulates that would otherwise cloud up ular examples of the style by a craft brewery in
abv: 5% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack
the appearance. the United States is not wrong.
As the pandemic closed taprooms and draft With this latest generation of lagers
beer production slowed, many brewers took appearing at your local brewery or on shelves, 97 Zero Gravity Jaws (Czech Pilsner; Zero Gravity
Craft Brewery, VT). This is a spicy pilsner
that delivers on bready, cracker-like malts that are
the opportunity to use fermentation tanks for the streak looks to continue.
both rustic and fresh, with a prickly hop character
lagers that would have otherwise been tied up Cheers! —John Holl
that lends just the right amount to bitterness to the
mix. Reliable like an old friend and perfectly smooth
despite assertive carbonation, you’re going to need
a bigger cooler.
100 Heater Allen Pils (Pilsner; Heater Allen

Brewing, OR). Both pillowy soft and
assertively crisp, this lager has history, patience
poured and quickly disappears, but a mineral water
quality remains, along with a joyous crispness that
makes it widely appealing. 96 Great Raft Southern Drawl (Pilsner; Great
Raft Brewing, LA). This is an easy drinking,
and skill behind it. It shows a slightly toasted bread abv: 4.4% Price: $11/16 oz 4 pack every-day enjoyable pilsner that slightly leans
character balanced by a spicy hop note. It’s subtle into modern hopping techniques to reveal modest
throughout and is, ideally, the kind of lager that
should be drank in multiples over an afternoon.
Only then, when the brain can absorb it, like back-
99 Notch Salem Lager (Helles; Notch Brewing,
MA). There are some beers that after the
first sip you know another one is in your immediate
spicy, earthy and citrus-forward flavors. With a
dry, slightly sweet finish twinged with dried orange
zest flavors, this is a lager built for lazy summer
ground music that suddenly becomes clear, does future. Still, there’s no need to rush the first pint. afternoons.
this pilsner really hit its stride. This stunning helles is golden yellow in color, abv: 5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack
abv: 5.1% Price: $15/16 oz 6 pack showing a slightly hazy pour topped with a creamy
100 Wibby Volksbier Vienna (Vienna Lager;

Wibby Brewing, CO). For full review see
head. It’s built for leisure: long afternoons in the
shade of beer garden trees or under an umbrella on
a beach. It offers deftly balanced flavors of lightly
96 Paulaner Salvator (Doppelbock; Paulaner
USA, NY). Long a benchmark of the style,
this deep boozy lager is full of fresh baked raisin
page 101. toasted bread, roasted corn and a hint of herbal bread aromas, with hints of spice, molasses,
abv: 5.5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack hops that show up before a semisweet finish. warming spices and soft leather. A full-bodied and
abv: 4.5% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack strong alcohol character is a hallmark but with a
99 Dovetail Helles (Helles; Dovetail Brewery,

IL). This is a lager of extraordinary qual-
ity that balances malt sweetness and richness 99 Urban Chestnut Stammtisch (German-
style Pilsner; Urban Chestnut Brewing,
sneaky quality makes this a fast sipper. Liquid bread
at its best, it works with cinnamon rolls, game or
whenever the mood for a thoughtful beer strikes.
with subtle hop spiciness and fruitiness. There’s a MO). Showing a rounded malt profile, a soft body, abv: 7.9% Price: $12/375 ml 6 pack
flinty character on the nose that appears when first a strong pinch of noble hops and early whisps of
WINEMAG.COM | 111
VINEGAR SOLUTION
A NEW PALATE
Writer Sydney Gore knows how to enjoy a complex, inviting
and shareable glass of wine—without the alcohol.
Outdoor sipping
at Reception Bar in
New York City
F
or me, it’s never been about for structure, balance and finish. Every which is bursting with the succulent
the buzz, but the tang of the ingredient counts. flavors of beets, blueberries and red fruits
drink. I remember my last glass The growing availability of non- that mimic the taste of Pinot Noir. The
of wine perfectly: I went to alcoholic wines and wine alternatives floral notes are balanced out by herbs and
dinner at an Italian restaurant spices, so the sweetness doesn’t overpower
in New York City’s East Village with a few such a multilayered blend.
friends, where we split a delicious bottle It’s so refreshing to pop It’s so refreshing to pop one of these
of Merlot. After our feast, we went to a bottles to make the most ordinary meals
concert in the Lower East Side where we
one of these bottles to feel like a special occasion—I have even
drank a few more glasses of the house red. make the most ordinary converted my very pro-wine drinking
By the time I got home, the wine was meals feel like a parents to sometimes share the Proxies
completely out of my system. While special occasion. with me. Non-alcoholic wine clubs get you
tending to my irritated bowels the next a rotation of new flavors, and something
morning, I decided to try drinking other you can’t put a price on: the feeling of
things for a while. transported me to a whole new world being part of a community again. My social
When you’re writing about culture that tastes better than I could have life has been reawakened with every pour.
MINU HAN/RECEPTION BAR
somewhere like New York, the social ever imagined. I’ve come to appreciate Embarking on this sobering journey
scene does not always cater to your innovative brands like Ghia, Yesfolk has shown me that you can still have an
lifestyle choices. It wasn’t until I became Tonics, Tart Vinegar and Acid League, elevated experience that invigorates all the
a regular at Reception Bar that I saw the which provides sophisticated takes on the senses without alcohol. My glass isn’t half-
possibilities of non-alcoholic drinks. It red, white and orange wines that I miss. empty, it’s full—of vinegar, and juices and
was there I realized that I could still taste My personal favorite is the Cuvée Zero, teas, that is.

GOTTWINES.COM
©2021 JOEL GOTT WINES, ST. HELENA, CA

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THE HISTORY OF INTERVIEW WITH GLOBAL

WINE & HEALTH MARY J. BLIGE FLATBREADS

$6.99 US & CANADA

To find out more visit tasvintners.wine or contact Head Winemaker Liam

THE CULTURE ISSUE

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©2021 Z. ALEXANDER BROWN WINES, NAPA, CA

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1895 1970s 1985 1992 TODAY

WIDENING THE WORLD OF WINE

COMING NEXT MONTH

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Want the full story? Visit winemag.com/CelebRose

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In some cases, labels prioritize art

Croatia is recognized by wine GRAŠEVINA

bottlings have finally begun MALVAZIJA ISTARSKA

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Historical Drams for Historical Dramas

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LUXURY TRAVEL EXCLUSIVE LUXU RY RESORTS

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Wine Enthusiast The Basics is a multi-

Study wine, beer and spirits

• How to Taste • How to Pair

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JUST ADD TRES AGAVES® ORGANIC TEQUILA

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Recreating the perfect year

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Fine Wines and

Bars “Back of the club “It’s a celebration, clap-clap,