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Travel Guide Travel Guide Travel Guide
The forests of India are wild, magnicent
and diverse. Strewn across the country, the
wild trails of India can be found in varied
landscapes, from the high Himalayas in
An invaluable companion for the intrepid the north to the rich Terai region in its
tourist and the wildlife enthusiast it foothills, from salt marshes of Kutch in the
brings alive the forests of India. west to the mangroves in the east and the
unexplored and impenetrable greens in
northeast, to the fascinating landscape of
* Introduction to the major wildlife parks
the peninsular region in the south.
and sanctuaries of India, with their rich

Travel Guide
Other Goodearth Titles fauna and flora While the pride of Indian forests is the
Assam: Travel Guide royal Bengal tiger, these wild tracts
Bhimbetka and Bhojpur: Travel Guide * Individual sections on over 50 parks are home to a thousand other species
Brajbhoomi: Krishnas Playground
and sanctuaries in India, grouped under of fauna, avifauna, reptiles, bees and
Buddhist Circuit in Central India: Travel Guide
Buddhist Trail in Himachal: Travel Guide zones: north, central, east, northeast, bu"eries. Several endangered species
Burhanpur: Travel Guide west, south, Andaman & Nicobar Islands such as the great Indian bustard, Bengal
Chamba: The Celestial Valley orican, paradise ycatcher, barasingha,
Chanderi: Travel Guide Himalayan tahr, gharial, blue sheep,
Delhi: City Guide * Fact-file of essential information with kiang, red panda call it home.
From Ajanta to Ellora: Travel Guide each park
Goa: A Goodearth Guide
Gwalior: City Guide This guidebook, Wild Trails in India,
Hyderabad: City Guide * Practical Information section for takes a quick look at the major national
Jammu & Kashmir: Travel Guide tourists visiting India parks, wildlife sanctuaries of the country,
Mandu: Travel Guide highlighting their diverse ora and fauna.
Kolkata: Travel Guide The guidebook has been divided into the
Madhya Pradesh: The Heart of India * Over 120 stunningg photographs
Omkareshwar and Maheshwar: Travel Guide
following zones for ease of the reader:
Orchha: Travel Guide north India, central India, east India,
Pachmarhi: Travel Guide northeast India, west India, south India,
Punjab: Travel Guide and Andaman & Nicobar Islands.
Ratlam, Mandsaur and Neemuch: Travel Guide
Rock Art of Madhya Pradesh: Travel Guide
With over 120 stunning photographs, and
Sikkim: Land of Mystique
Speaking Stones: World Cultural Heritage Sites in India fact-les with each park, this guidebook
will be an invaluable companion both
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Srinagar: City Guide

Temples of Madhya Pradesh: Travel Guide Price: ` 210 for the rst timer as well as the wildlife
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Wild Trails in lndia
Travel Guide

Eicher Goodearth Private Limited

India

Sponsored by
Ministry of Tourism, Government of India
 CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 4

MAJOR NATIONAL PARKS AND WILDLIFE

SANCTUARIES OF INDIA 16
North India 17
Dachigam National Park 17
Hemis National Park 18
Pin Valley National Park 19
Great Himalayan National Park 20
Valley of Flowers National Park 21
Corbett National Park 22
Rajaji National Park 24
Dudhwa National Park 26
National Chambal Wildlife Sanctuary 28
Desert National Park 29
Ranthambore National Park 30
Keoladeo Ghana National Park 32
Sultanpur National Park 34

Central India 35
Bandhavgarh National Park 35
Kanha National Park 36
Pench National Park 38
Panna National Park 40
Kanger Ghati National Park 41
Achanakmar Wildlife Sanctuary 42

East India 43
Betla National Park 43
Hazaribagh National Park 44
Simlipal National Park 45
Chilka Wildife Sanctuary 46
Bhitarkanika National Park 47
Sunderbans National Park 48
Jaldapara National Park 50
Neora Valley National Park 52

AN EICHER GOODEARTH PUBLICATION

Copyright 2014 Eicher Goodearth Private Limited, India
ISBN 978-93-80262-75-8

Editor and Publisher: Swati Mitra

Editing: Geetika Sachdev, Nidhi Dhingra

Design: Nidhi Dhingra
Text contribution: Joydip and Suchandra Kundu (Introduction pp 4-15)
 Northeast India 53
Khangchendzonga National Parkark 53
Kaziranga National Park 54
Manas National Park 56
Hollongapar Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary 58
Nameri National Park 59
Namdapha National Park 60
Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary 61
Pakke Tiger Reserve 62
Keibul Lamjao National Park 63
Murlen National Park 64

West India 65
Gir National Park 65
Velavadar National Park 66
Marine National Park 67
Kutch Desert Wildlife Sanctuary 68
Wild Ass Sanctuary 70
Tadoba-Andhari National Park 72
Navegaon National Park 74

South India 75
Bandipur National Park 75
Nagarhole National Park 76
Mudumalai National Park 78
Point Calimere Bird Sanctuary 80
Silent Valley National Park 81
Periyar National Park 82
Sri Venkateshwara National Park 84

Andaman & Nicobar Islands 85

Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park 85
Campbell Bay National Park 86

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 87

All rights reserved.

The Publishers would be happy to receive suggestions and corrections
for inclusion in the next edition. Please write to the Executive Publisher,
Eicher Goodearth Pvt Ltd, #96, Sector 32, Gurgaon 122001
Email: goodearthbooks@eicher.in; Ph 0124 4415999
This publication has been sponsored by
Ministry of Tourism, Government of India
Printed by Thomson Press, New Delhi
on behalf of Eicher Goodearth Pvt Ltd
 INTRODUCTION
India is wild, magnicent and diverse. Some
of the most beautiful and rare animals in
the world are to be found here. The high
Himalayas, fertile oodplains, evergreen
peninsular forests, shimmering wetlands, and
meandering coastline shape our wild trails.

Some 700 million years ago, what is now India

was actually two major landmasses, separated
by the primordial Tethys Sea. Of these vast
stretches of land, one was called Gondwana,
and around 150 million years ago tectonic
forces pushed the Gondwana mass towards
the northeast, forcing the oceanic bed of the
Tethys Sea to rise under its thrust.

The sea vanished and the raised land formed

the Tibetan plateau that reached a height
of 4,000 m. The upward thrust instigated
the rise of an undulating rugged mountain
range called the Himalayas. Today, Indias
congregation of ora and fauna can be
classied into certain biogeographic regions:
Trans-Himalaya, Himalaya, plains, desert,
semi-arid, Western Ghats, Deccan peninsula,
northeast, coasts and islands.

India is diversity rolled into one. Here lives the

king of animals - the Royal Bengal Tiger. We
have some of the nest tiger reserves spread
from the northern Terai region in Dudhwa
and CorbeD, to dense forests down south
in Bandipur, Nagarhole and Periyar, from
arid Ranthambhore to the mystic mangroves
of Sundarbans, from the rainforests of
Namdapha and grasslands of Kaziranga to the
bamboo dominated central Indian highlands
of Kanha and Bandhavgarh the tiger is
everywhere.

LEFT: A lone elephant walks along forest trails in

Corbett National Park, Uttarakhand

5
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

The blue Ramganga river, white pebbles on its

banks, the speckled Dhikala Chaur, CorbeD
National Park personies the paradise that
is wild India. Named aGer the legendary Jim
CorbeD, this national park is Indias premier
wildlife destination. It was here, on 1 April
1973, that Project Tiger was launched. The
spectacular panorama of Kumaon hills is
the abode of elephants, ungulates, lesser
mammals, gharials, muggers, and numerous
birds, besides the elusive tiger.

Located in the very heart of India, Kanha,

Bandhavgarh and Pench Tiger Reserves are
BELOW: Bandhavgarh the pride of Madhya Pradesh. Kanhas forest
National Park has glades, made famous by Rudyard Kiplings
the densest population Jungle Book are inhabited by precious life forms.
of the big cat in Apart from tigers, Kanha is home to the worlds
Madhya Pradesh only population of hardground barasinghas.

6
 Introduction

Bandhavgarh in Madhya Pradeshadesh and

Ranthambhore in Rajasthan are two
tiger reserves saturated in history,
istory, myth
and legend. Both reserves have
ave forts as a
surviving reminder of dynasties
sties that ruled in
ancient days.

Bandhavgarh also has an imposing i stone

statue of a reclining Sheshashai Vishnu from
where it is believed that the Charanganga,
the lifeline of Bandhavgarh originates.

One of the most popular tiger destinations of

the world, Bandhavgarh has a varied habitat
of grassland and forests that support large
herds of chital and sambars, and several other ABOVE: With their
species like the Indian striped hyena, jungle vast wingspan, storks
cat, jackals, plentiful varieties of avifauna and gliding above make for
reptiles. an awesome sight

7
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

ABOVE: Rocky Ranthambhore National Park, a 7-hrs drive

terrain of Nanda from Delhi, is arrayed with dry deciduous
Devi National Park, ora, with Dhok trees overlooking the
Uttarakhand panorama along with Pipal, Banyan and
BELOW: The beautiful Jamun trees highlighting the fruiting diversity
Himalayan monal seen of the Park. Ranthambhore is doDed with
in Uttarakhand palatial ruins where today tigers roam. No
RIGHT: Graceful kiangs trip to Ranthambhore goes unrewarded.
in the spectacularly Ranthambhore, under the protective umbrella
barren landscape of of the late Sri Fateh Singh Rathore, radically
Hemis National Park, changed for the good and the tiger got its
Ladakh foothold over the forests. Though best known
for tigers, this is also the country of leopards,
sloth bears, hyenas, caracals and more, with
some 300 species of birdlife and, of course,
marsh crocodiles in the lake area.

India is one of the few countries that have both

cold and hot deserts. The Thar or the Great
Indian Desert is among the 11 major deserts
of the world. The wide open sky, sand dunes,
vast stretches of the Great and the LiDle Rann,
barren landscapes, extreme weather are the

8
 Introduction

refuge of some 300 species of birds including

the Great Indian bustards, a range of sand
grouse, cranes and others. Besides elegant
chinkaras, wild asses, wolves and desert foxes,
and a gamut of reptiles mark the exceptional
biological wealth of the Indian desert.

Mountain peaks towering at 6,000 m, deep

gorges that seem to touch the core of the earth,
rocks and boulders eroded by torrential rivers
and high velocity winds that cut across the
land a forbidden land that is a cold desert.
The dry treeless and cold desert of Ladakh
is simply irresistible for any adventurer. The
empty valleys of Hemis National Park present
landscapes that continue to change with
every mile. The Ghost of Darkness, the rare
snow leopard lives here. There is also a wide
range of mountain sheep and goats like ibex,
argali, bharal, goral, recorded in this region.
Other predator species include Palass cat,
lynx, wolves, red foxes, golden eagle, Tibetan
snowcocks, Chukar partridges along with
other high altitude birds. The Tibetan wild ass
or kiang runs wild in the eastern parts of the
region like in Tso-kar.

Hemis became Indias rst high altitude

national park to be established north of the
main Himalayan Range.

9
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

The Western Ghats are Indias second

highest mountain range. A vast variation in
topography has resulted in a rich biodiversity
here, and the range is also one of the richest
gene pools. The forests range from tropical
evergreen rainforests to dry deciduous scrub
forests. The diverse forests of Nilgiri Biosphere
Reserve range from the famed national parks
of Nagarhole and Bandipur bordering the
contiguous forests of Kerala and Tamil Nadu
that harbour some of the nest species of ora
and fauna.

Elephants, tigers, leopards, dholes, and their

prey roam freely between Nagarhole and
Bandipur in Karnataka, Mudumalai and
Mukurthi in Tamil Nadu and Wayanad and
Silent Valley in Kerala. The Kabini backwaters
between Bandipur and Nagarhole are a blissful
preserve of some of the wild wonders of India.

Another comparatively small reserve located

BELOW: The riveting in the south eastern part of Karnataka
landscape of Nagarhole at its border with Tamil Nadu is Biligiri
National Park in Rangaswamy Temple Wildlife Sanctuary,
Karnataka which is a botanists and birders paradise.

10
 Introduction

LEFT: The wild gaur

Tigers, elephants, gaurs, barking deer are

regularly seen here and the natural landscape
of the sanctuary is perfectly picturesque.

The 777 sq km Periyar Tiger Reserve is a

montage of tropical evergreen and moist
deciduous wilderness with the splendid
Periyar lake a haven for mammals like tigers,
elephants, lion-tailed macaque, etc, reptiles,
birds, insects and many others. Ecotourism
projects are widely acclaimed as a success
story in the conservation of Periyar.

11
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

The coastal belt that garlands peninsular

India is any birders bliss. Point Calimere,
Bhitarkanika, and Marine National Park are
few notable destinations. Another ultimate
destination for birdwatchers is Keoladeo
Ghana National Park in Bharatpur, Rajasthan
& a vital wetland, this man-made swamp
is one of the worlds best known and most
threatened birding havens.

At the eastern part of India the coastal line

'The Bengal concludes in the Sundarbans & the worlds
tiger evokes a largest mangrove swamp forest & the ultimate
reverence, dread land of the tiger. Mangroves are salt tolerant
and wonder woody plants that exist in conditions of
accorded to no high salinity, extreme tides, strong winds,
other animal.' high temperatures and depleted soils. The
pneumatophores, the buDress roots, the aerial
Sy Montgomery, roots, the stilt roots are visual treat for the
Spell of the Tiger eyes. Water rises and recedes every six hours
in this estuary.

12
 Introduction

The elusive Bengal tiger rules the mangrove

kingdom. It is very hard to spot, but people
sometimes get to see tigers swimming across
the tidal creeks.

Eight species of kingshers are found here

making Sundarbans a kingsher country. On
winter aGernoons, one can see the mammoth
salt-water crocodile basking on the mudats.
Sundarbans is wildlifers paradise.
ABOVE: Pretty
The Dooars of north Bengal and Assam, butterflies like the
the extensive valleys, the ood plains of royal swallow tail can
Brahmaputra, the rugged hills of Nagaland, be seen in the hills in
Mizoram, Tripura, the mountains of north Bengal
Arunachal Pradesh, and the Shillong plateau BELOW: The majestic
represent the green paradise of Indias royal Bengal tiger
northeast. The area has plentiful biodiversity, exploring the
rich in endemic ora. The habitat of northeast bewitching
India supports a wide range of wildlife of the mangroves of the
Indo-Malayan and Indo-Chinese regions. Sundarbans

13
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

ABOVE: The one- Kaziranga is a magic land of riverine

horned rhinoceros is grasslands, water bodies and thickly forested
the main attraction in hills. The National Park is situated on the leG
Kaziranga National bank of Brahmaputra and is home to Indias
Park, Assam great onehorned Rhinoceros. Rhinos love
FACING PAGE: Jeep muddy swamps. OGen they are seen lying in
safari in Manas the slushy mud in one of the three ranges of
National Park, Assam Kaziranga. This World Heritage Site supports
a variety of herbivores like elephants, Asiatic
wild bualoes, and swamp deer. The tiger,
too, lives in this terrain. Most wildlife tourists
come to Kaziranga to see these big ves.
Kaziranga is also studded with birdlife.

Manas Tiger Reserve with the meandering

Manas river and lush green forests against
the backdrop of the Bhutan Himalayas has a
charm of its own. The World Heritage Site is
home to the Bengal orican, clouded leopard,
golden langur, one-horned Indian rhino,
gaur, elephant and tiger. However, due to the
political uncertainty of the past several years,
the wildlife situation continues to be fragile.

The tropical rain forests of northeast India,

especially of Arunachal Pradesh, are a
botanists delight. Namdapha is a virgin
evergreen jungle in Arunachal Pradesh.
The luxuriant growth of climbers, the dense
undergrowth and multi-layered evergreen
trees are refuge of Indias only ape the
Hoolock Gibbon. Moreover, elephants, gaurs,
clouded leopards, marbled cats and other rare
and endangered species reside in these forests.

14
 Introduction

WILD ETIQUETTE

There are some rules that must be followed while going on a

wild trail.
One has be calm, quiet, and most importantly, patient when
one is in a forest.
Tourists must not wear brightly-coloured clothes and must
not carry any electronic items especially mobile phones while
on a safari or on foot.
Love the wilderness; do not chase any animal. Wild forests
are not zoos, so one has to be immensely patient to see an
animal. Never violate their space or invade their privacy.
Wildlife photographers must follow certain rules. They should
never approach any large mammal on foot or any birds nest
and should never restrain any reptile or insect to get a closer
shot.
Obey the rules of the area and forest authorities.
Above all, always respect the wild animals and their
wilderness and always remember the words of the Austrian
artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser, You are a guest of
nature: Behave.

15
MAJOR NATIONAL PARKS &
WILDLIFE SANCTUARIES
OF INDIA

The guidebook has been divided into the following

zones for ease of the user:
North India
Jammu & Kashmir (J&K,) Himachal Pradesh (HP),
Uttarakhand, Uttar Pradesh (UP), Rajasthan, Haryana
Central India
Madhya Pradesh (MP), Chhattisgarh
East India
Jharkhand, Odisha, West Bengal
Northeast India
Sikkim, Assam, Arunachal Pradesh (AP), Manipur, Mizoram
West India
Gujarat, Maharashtra
South India
Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Andhra Pradesh
Andaman & Nicobar Islands

16
 NORTH INDIA
D567895: N5;8<=5> P5?@ | JCK
Spread over 140 sq km on the
slopes of the Zabarwan range,
Dachigam National Park is
home to the nearly-extinct
hangul or Kashmiri stag, the
state animal of Jammu and
Kashmir.
Notied as a National Park in
1981, it is just 18 kms from the
heart of Srinagar, and barely a
kilometre from Harwan Garden,
known for its Buddhist ruins.
The park has altitudes ranging
from 1,676-4,267 m, divided
into the more barren Upper
At a glance
District: Srinagar
Distance: Srinagar town (22 kms)
Nearest Railhead: Jammu Tawi
(310 kms)
Nearest Airport: Srinagar
(32 kms)
...............................................
Best time to visit:
Upper Dachigam: May-August
Lower Dachigam: Sept-Dec
...............................................
Entry fee: Free
Timings: 5.30 am-6.30 pm
* Cameras are only allowed in Lower Dachigam
Dachigam and the lush
Lower Dachigam.
The rich green grassland of
Lower Dachigam, doDed with
bright blue poppies during the
summer, is also home to the
Himalayan grey langur, snow
leopard, Himalayan black bear,
ibex, and birds such as the
Kashmir ycatcher and monal,
among others. There are over
500 species of medicinal herbs
in the park.
BELOW: Himalayan grey langur
Closed from: January-April
....................................................
Permit: Available at the Park
entrance and the Wildlife
Wardens office in Srinagar.
Call: (0194) 75411
....................................................
Major fauna: Hangul, Himalayan
grey langur, snow leopard,
Himalayan black bear, musk deer
....................................................
Where to stay: Srinagar
17
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA
HE:8F H897 A>;8;GHE NP | JCK
Hemis High Altitude National
Park, located amidst the awesome
moonscapes of Ladakh, across
the craggy Markha and Rumbak
valleys, is the highest national
park in India (altitude ranging
from 3,140 m to 5,854 m) and the
second largest protected area in
India aGer Nanda Devi Biosphere
Reserve (over 600 sq km).
Notied in 1981, the park is
named aGer the remarkable
Hemis Gompa, the largest and
most well-known monastery in
Ladakh. It lies 40 kms south-west
of Leh and is also known as the
snow leopard capital of India,
inhabited as it is by the elusive
animal. If you are lucky you may
At a glance
District: Ladakh
Distance: 10 kms from Hemis
Nearest Airport: Leh
....................................................
Open all year round
Best time to visit : May-Sept
Entry fee: Rs 20 (Indians);
Rs 100 (Foreigners)
....................................................
18
come across a herd of kiangs, the
largest of all wild asses, as they
trot across these high altitude
deserts. The streaked rose nch,
Tibetan snow nch, Himalayan
snowcock and the fork-tailed
swiG are a few bird species found
only in this high-altitude park.
The park has four entry points:
Martselang is 45 kms from
Leh, Chilling is 60 kms from
Leh, while Stok and Zingchan,
at a distance of 13 and 25 kms
respectively, are located in north
of the park.
BELOW: Black necked cranes are found
in remote parts of India and Bhutan,
and are the state birds of J&K
Permit: Available at the Chief
Wildlife Warden or the Deputy
Conservator of Forests offices at
Leh (01982-252171, 09419049275)
...............................................
Major fauna: Snow leopard,
kiang, red fox, bharal, ibex,
Tibetan argali, Ladakh urial
...............................................
Where to stay: Homestays;
Hemis Gompa; Leh
P8= V5>>EJ NP | H8:5675> P?5HEF7
Notied in 1987, Pin Valley
National Park is located south
of Dhankar gompa in the cold
desert region of Spiti valley.
The park sits at an elevation of
3,500-5,800 m, not far from the
Tibetan border.
Named aGer the Pin river which
ows down to join the Spiti, the
park is connected to the Rupi
Bhabha Sanctuary to its south
and to the Great Himalayan
National Park to its southwest.
The remoteness of the park,
its majestic, stark landscape
punctuated with scanty
vegetation of mostly alpine
and cedar trees, add to its
mystique. While it is possible
to spot its most famous
inhabitants, the Tibetan wild
ass or kiang, Siberian ibex and
Tibetan gazelle, only the lucky
chance upon rare species such
as the snow leopard, Tibetan
wolf, Himalayan red fox and
Himalayan blue sheep. The park
At a glance
District: Lahaul & Spiti
Distance: Kaza (30 kms), Tabo
(48 kms), Manali (96 kms)
....................................................
Best time to visit: March-Dec
Entry fee: Free
....................................................
Permit: Indians may apply for
permits from the sub-divisional
magistrate at Kaza.
Foreigners are not allowed.
is also home to the indigenous
and prized Chhumurti horses.
The two most popular trekking
routes in the park are from
Kullu valley in the west via the
Pin Parvati Pass (5,319 m) and
from Kinnaur in the south via
the Bhabha valley and the Tari
Khango Pass (4,900 m).
Visitors can approach Pin Valley
through Manali via Kaza, or from
Shimla via Reckong Peo and
Sumdo in Kinnaur. The last leg
of the journey is undertaken on
foot. Be prepared for an arduous
trek. Hire a local guide, carry
proper camping equipment
and a medical kit with you.
Trekkers will nd company in the
inquisitive Himalayan marmot,
mouse hare and snow rabbit
peeping out of their holes to
curiously look at visitors.
ABOVE: The rare Himalayan blue
sheep, also known locally as bharal,
in Pin Valley National Park
Major fauna: Tibetan wolf,
red fox, Siberian ibex, bharal,
Himalayan snowcock, bearded
vulture
....................................................
Where to stay: Private
accommodation available at Kaza
and Tabo. One may also set up
camps at Mud Farka
19
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

G?E5; H8:5>5J5= N5;8<=5> P5?@ | HP

Notied in 1984, the Great
Himalayan National Park
(GHNP) sprawls over 754 sq
km of rugged mountain terrain
in Kullu district, Himachal
Pradesh. With altitudes ranging
from 1,500-5,800 m, it comprises
gentle meadows, lush forests
of oak, conifer and bamboo
as well as glacial peaks. The
terrain is characterised by
numerous ridges, deep gorges
and precipitous clis, rocky crags,
glaciers and narrow valleys.

The park is contiguous with the

Rupi Bhaba Wildlife Sanctuary
in the south-east, Pin Valley
National Park in the north-east
and Kanawar Wildlife Sanctuary
in the north. These areas form
the Great Himalayan National
Park Conservation Area. The
most privileged resident of the
park is the western tragopan, a
brightly plummaged pheasant
classied as vulnerable in the
wild. The western tragopan is
aptly named the King of Birds,
locally referred to as Jujurana.
GHNP has one of the densest
populations of this bird across its
range. According to folklore, god
created this colourful pheasant
using the most beautiful feathers
of every bird in the universe.
The breeding centre inside the
park is a successful eort at
conservation. The bird is best
sighted between October and
April. The park is also home
to the endangered Himalayan
musk deer.
The park is best explored
through the multiple treks it
oers - ranging from relatively
easy day walks in the ecozone
to challenging week-10 day
long treks through arduous and
spectacular terrain.
ABOVE: The stunning tragopans
perched on a branch

At a glance
District: Kullu Entry fee: Indians: Rs 50, Rs 30
Distance: 60 kms from Kullu (students); Foreigners: Rs 200,
town Rs 100 (students)
Nearest Railhead: Joginder Camera fee: Free
.................................................
Nagar (approx 100 kms)
Major fauna: Himalayan black
Nearest Airport: Kullu-Manali
bear, snow leopard, Himalayan
Airport (approx 50 kms)
................................................. musk deer, red fox, flying
Best time to visit: April-June, squirrel, Himalayan tahr,
Sept-Oct western tragopan
Timings: Sunrise-sunset .................................................
Where to stay: Forest huts, rest
Closed from: Oct-April (higher
houses and dormitories available
altitudes)
.................................................. on reservation

20
V5>>EJ <K F><ME?F NP | U;;5?5@75=H
For a nature lover, the trek to
the beautiful Valley of Flowers
is indeed a must-do! Spread over
almost 87 sq km in Bhyundar
Valley, the park is situated at
an altitude of 3,658 m above sea
level, not far from Nanda Devi
National Park.
Snow envelopes the valley from
November to May, but with
the coming of summer, in the
months of June-August, this
cone-shaped valley is swathed in
a riot of blossoms, with over 500
species of exquisite, high altitude
owers such as orchids, poppies,
primulas, marigold, daisies and
anemones, that take ones breath
away. The rare and exquisite
brahma kamal blooms high up the
At a glance
District: Chamoli
Distance: 17 kms trek from
Govindghat
Nearest airport: Dehradun
(295 kms)
Nearest railhead: Rishikesh
(213 kms)
...............................................
Best time to visit: June-August
valley, and especially around
river Pushpawati. Legend goes
that these meadows were once
the celestial abode of gods and
nymphs and the locals decidedly
stayed away in order to give
them privacy.
The 17-km trek to the valley
begins from Govindghat, which
is about an hours drive from
Joshimath. There is a single
cobbled path running through
the Valley to explore this
exquisite National Park.
Approximately 10 kms south
of the Valley of Flowers is
Hemkund Valley, where the
Sikh shrine of Hemkund Sahib
is situated.
Closed from: Nov-May
...............................................
Entry fee: Rs 150 (Indians);
Rs 600 (Foreigners)
Camera fee: Free
...............................................
Major flora: Brahma kamal,
orchids, primula
...............................................
Where to stay: Govindghat
21
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

C<?NE;; NP | U;;5?5@75=H
Nestled in the foothills of the Lesser
Himalayas and the Shivalik range, CorbeD
National Park is the most-visited park in
UDarakhand. The oldest National Park in
India, notied in 1936, is named aGer the
legendary hunter, environmentalist and
photographer, Jim CorbeD.

Spread over a 521 sq km area, it sits at an

elevation of 400 to 1,210 m above sea level,
with sal, bamboo, khair and sheeshum as the
dominant tree species. The river Kosi that
ows along eastern boundary has provisions
for raGing, while Ramganga is popular with
anglers who come to bait the golden mahseer.
Permission for angling must be sought from
the state Fisheries Department.

The park has four gates, Dhangarhi, Amdanda,

Kalagarh and Durga Devi. Though Amdanda
BELOW: Tigers at is the closest to Ramnagar (2 kms), Dhangarhi
Corbett National Park, (18 kms from Ramnagar) is most frequented,
the oldest national accessed by tourists coming from Dhikala.
park in India
FACING PAGE: A pair Declared a Tiger Reserve in 1973, CorbeD now
of cheetal or spotted has 214 tigers according to a 2011 report by
deer looks up at the National Tiger Conservation Authority. Apart
camera from the Bengal tiger, one may spot leopards,

22
 North India

sambar, barking deer, hog deer,

sloth bears, Himalayan gorals,
Himalayan black bears and
langurs.

With an astonishing 617 species of

resident and migratory birds, the
park is a birdwatchers delight.
The fast owing Ramganga river
is home to muggers and gharials.

At a glance
District: Nainital and Pauri
Distance: Nainital (63 kms),
Ramnagar (9 kms)
Nearest Railhead: Ramnagar
(12 kms)
Nearest Airport: Pantnagar
(50 kms)
...............................................
Best time to visit: Dec-March
Timings: 6 am-9 am, 2 pm-5 pm
Closed from: 15 June-15 Nov
However, forests near Jhirna
open throughout the year
...............................................
Jeep Safari: Rs 3,700 (Indian,
6 people), Rs 4,500 (Foreigner,
2 people)
Elephant Safari (buffer zone):
Rs 3,500
...............................................
Permit: Issued at all four gates.
Accommodation permits
available at the Reception
...............................................
Major fauna: Tiger, barking
deer, chital, Himalayan goral,
Himalayan black bear
...............................................
Where to stay: Rest houses at
Dhikala, Gairal. Luxury resorts
near Jhirna and Gajria gates.

23

ABOVE: An elephant
walking about in Rajaji
National Park
At a glance
District: Haridwar, Dehradun
and Pauri
Distance: Dehradun (25 kms)
Nearest Railhead: Haridwar
(24 kms)
Nearest Airport: Dehradun
(56 kms)
.................................................
Best time to visit: Dec-March
Entry fee: Rs 150 (Indians);
Rs 600 (Foreigners)
Timings: 6 am-9 am, 3 pm-6 pm
Open throughout the year
24
WILD TRAILS IN INDIA
R5O5O8 NP | U;;5?5@75=H
In 1983, three wildlife sanctuaries Rajaji,
Chilla and Motichur were combined to
form Rajaji National Park and named aGer
C Rajgopalachari, the great freedom ghter
and the only Governor General of independent
India. Positioned at the head of the Indo-
Gangetic plains and the Shivaliks, this
unspoilt park has a diverse ecology and is
spread across 820 sq km on both sides of river
Gypsy Safari: Rs 1,250 (up to 8
people)
Elephant safaris are not offered
Camera fee: Rs 50 (foreigners)
.................................................
Major fauna: Elephant, Bengal
tiger, leopard, sloth bear,
Himalayan black bear
.................................................
Where to stay: Forest Guest
Houses as well as private camping
holidays. Private accommodation
available at Haridwar
 North India

Ganges in three districts of UDarakhand: ABOVE: Rajaji

Haridwar, Dehradun and Pauri Garhwal. National Park is often
visited for the rare
Known for its elephants, the elephant corridor sighting of its leopards
between Rajaji and CorbeD National Park was
once 170-km long, but has been gradually cut
short by deforestation and human seDlements.
Elephants now move along specially created
corridors in the Chilla-Rishikesh forests.

Apart from elephants,the park is home to

many tigers and over 250 leopards, which are
not easily seen, and a few sloth bears, which
are even less visible to tourists on safaris. The
thousands of chitals and sambhars, and the
over 300 varieties of resident and migratory
birds add interest.

There are seven entrances to the park, the

most popular with tourists being Chilla, 13
kms from Haridwar. A detailed brochure is
available at the Forest Rangers Oce, where
one can book safaris and guides as well.

There is a 34-km Nature Safari Trail and drive

passing through undulating forest tracks, hilly
terrain, lush green valleys, river beds, dense
forests and sprawling grasslands.

25
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA
DGH7M5 N5;8<=5> P5?@ | U;;5? P?5HEF7
Part of Dudhwa Tiger Reserve,
Dudhwa National Park, notied
in 1977, is known for its sizeable
population of the endangered
predator, the tiger, and its equally
endangered prey, the barasingha
or swamp deer. The reserve
comprises three other Protected
Forest Areas: Kishanpur WLS,
Katerniaghat WLS, and Pilibhit
Tiger Reserve. River Sharada acts
as a boundary between Kishanpur
Wildlife Sanctuary and Dudhwa
National Park.
Bound by river Mohan to its north
and Suheli to the south, the ecology
of Dudhwa National Park, with
its marshy grasslands, ample
water bodies, plenty of grassy
camouage and food, is perfect for
a ourishing wildlife. The fauna in
Dudhwa National Park is the last
of its kind leG in the Indo-Gangetic
tract of northern India (RL Singh,
Ecology of Dudhwa). Overrun by
3-6 m long elephant grass during
26
the monsoons, the park is home
to the endangered one-horned
rhinoceros, Bengal tiger, leopard,
and the nearly extinct hispid hare
and Bengal orican.
Once found in large numbers here,
the rhinoceros became extinct
in Dudhwa by 1978. In 1985, six
rhinos from Pabitora Wildlife
Sanctuary, Assam, and four young
adult female rhinos from Chitwan
National Park, Nepal, were
brought here. Today there are over
30 one-horned rhinos in the park.
Close by, en route to Lakhimpur-
Dudhwa, is a frog-shaped Shiva
temple and the impressive Surat
Bhawan Palace, complemented by
nine acres of lush green lawns and
beautiful fountains.
ABOVE: One-horned rhinoceros in
Dudhwa National Park
FACING PAGE: The tiger is a proud
inhabitant of Dudhwa National Park
 North India
At a glance
District: Lakhimpur Kheri
Distance: Lucknow (238 kms)
Nearest Railhead: Dudhwa
Nearest Airport: Lucknow
Best time to visit: Dec-March
....................................................
Entry fee: Rs 100 (Indians);
Rs 800 (Foreigners)
Timings: 7-10 am, 3 pm-sunset
Closed from: July-Oct
Elephant safari: Rs 600 for 4
Vehicle fee: Rs 150
Camera fee: Free
....................................................
Permit: Day permits from the
Reception at the reserve. Permits
for night halts can be arranged
by contacting the Field Director/
Deputy Director of the reserve.
Permits issued are valid only for
a single person, and are non-
transferable.
It is mandatory to get a clearance
certificate issued before leaving
the reserve.
...............................................
Major fauna: Tiger, one-horned
rhinoceros, barasingha, leopard,
sarus crane
...............................................
Where to stay: Private as well
as government accommodation
available both inside and around
the park
...............................................
Contact: www.
dudhwatigerreserve.com
27
N5;8<=5> C75:N5> S5=6;G5?J | UP
A mere 2-hour drive from the
historic city of Agra is the
National Chambal Wildlife
Sanctuary, which covers
approximately 5,400 sq km
across the three states of UDar
Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh and
Rajasthan.
Tucked within the folds of the
mystical Chambal ravines,
this sanctuary was notied in
1979 to save the endangered
gharial (Gavialis gangeticus). The
Chambal river that runs through
the sanctuary is home to over 400
gharials, the largest number of
gharials in the wild.
A boat ride is the best way to
view the famed wildlife here:
gharials, muggers, smooth-
coated oDers, several species of
turtles, and ripples made by the
occasional Gangetic dolphin.
While the Chambal boasts of an
impressive 330 species of resident
and migratory birds, and is one of
the best places to spot the elegant
Indian skimmer. While gharials
tend to hide under water if boats
stray too close to them, beware
of the deceptively calm-looking
mugger, quite capable at snapping
at anyone who comes too close.
Presently, tourist safaris are
conducted by the privately-run
Chambal Safari Lodge, situated
15 kms from the sanctuary gate.
Bateshwar, a liDle over 10 kms
from the sanctuary gate, is an
ancient temple complex on the
banks of the Yamuna.
ABOVE: The gharial is named after the
ghara (or pot) shaped emboss at the end
of its snout

At a glance
District: Morena Boat ride: Rs 490
Distance: Nandgaon (entry gate) Vehicle fee: Rs 100
...............................................
is 75 kms from Agra
Major fauna: Gharial, mugger,
Nearest Railhead: Agra
smooth-coated otter, Gangetic
Nearest Airport: Agra
dolphin, red-crowned roofed
Best time to visit: Dec-March
............................................... turtle
Entry fee: Rs 50 (Indians); ....................................................
Where to stay: Agra; Chambal
Rs 600 (Foreigners)
Safari Lodge in Jarar
Timings: 9 am-5 pm ....................................................
Closed from: July-Sept Contact: DFO, National Chambal
....................................................
Sanctuary (0562) 2530091

28
 North India

DEFE?; N5;8<=5> P5?@ | R5O5F;75=

Spread over 3,162 sq km of Thar
Desert, Desert National Park,
notied in 1980, is an excellent
example of the ecosystem of the
vast and arid desert. Sand dunes
form less than a quarter of the
park, with sparse vegetation
and patches of wooded cover
speckled with the blossoms of
ronj, dhok, khejri and rohida
trees giving it hues of green and
bright orange.
The best way to spot animals
in Desert National Park is to
take a camel ride to Sam Sand
Dunes and sit tight while the
endangered chinkara, desert fox,
desert cat and black buck cross
your path. Sudashri forest post
is an ideal location for wildlife
spoDing. Resident and migratory
birds including the great Indian
bustard and reptiles such as the
spiny-tail lizard, Russells viper,
common krait and saw-scaled
viper also call the undulating
mounds of this park home.
The park also has the Wood
Fossil Park at Aakal, which is
known for its collection of 180
million-year old forest and
animal fossils.
ABOVE: The great Indian bustard is
a prized sighting in the Desert
National Park

At a glance
District: Jaisalmer and Barmer Camel Safari: Rs 650
Distance: Jaisalmer (18 kms), Vehicle fee: Rs 100 (jeep),
Jaipur (585 kms) Rs 200 (coach)
....................................................
Nearest Railhead: Jaisalmer
Major fauna: Black buck, chinkara,
Junction (19 kms)
desert fox, great Indian bustard
Nearest Airport: Jodhpur ....................................................
(297 kms) Where to stay: Private
....................................................
accommodation available at
Best time to visit: Nov-Jan
Jaisalmer
Entry fee: Rs 100

29
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

R5=;75:N<?E NP | R5O5F;75=
Situated 160 kms southeast of Jaipur,
Ranthambore National Park formerly served
as the hunting ground for the maharajas of
Jaipur. Notied as a National Park in 1980, it is
amongst the most well-documented wildlife
destinations in India.

The park, spread over an area of 392 sq km,

lies at the edge of a plateau and is bounded to
the north by the Banas River and to the south
by the Chambal River. It gets its name from
the striking Ranthambore Fort that stands
within the forest. A World Heritage Site, the
4.5 sq km fort is believed to have been built
in the 10th century, during the rule of the
Chauhan dynasty.

A huge onus for the popularity of the park

goes to the ex-IFS ocer and the countrys
best known tiger conservationist, Fateh
Singh Rathore, who worked in Ranthambore
for years and is credited with puDing this
destination on the wildlife map of the world.

The park came into limelight aGer its royal

tigress, Macchli (T-16), was photographed and
BELOW: A herd of lmed in several national and international
chital grazing in the wildlife documentaries, soon becoming the
park. The imposing most photographed tiger in the wild. Ferocious
Ranthambore Fort and stunning, Macchli was called the lady
can be seen in the of the lakes because of her anity for water
background bodies, and is the most famed tiger in India.

30
 North India

At a glance
District: Sawai Madhopur Camera fee: Free
....................................................
Nearest Railhead: Sawai
Major fauna: Black buck, Indian
Madhopur (10 kms)
false vampire bat, mugger,
Nearest Airport: Jaipur (180 kms)
.................................................... Russells viper
....................................................
Best time to visit: Oct-June
Where to stay: Private
Timings vary with seasons
accommodation available
Closed from: July-Sep
.................................................... at Sawai Madhopur; RTDC
Safari charges: Rs 600 (Indians); accommodation at Ranthambore
Rs 1,000 (Foreigners) Road, Ph 07462 221333

According to a news report of April 2014,

the total number of tigers in Ranthambhore
National Park is 57, including cubs, sub-adults
and mature tigers. The other commonly found
fauna here include panthers, sloth bears,
sambar and spoDed deer.

When in Ranthambore, do visit its notable

sites: Bakaula, a thickly forested region with
small pools and water holes in clearings;
Kachida Valley, close to the outskirts of the
park, with a majority of its panther population
and a bloom of ery red Flame of the Forest
trees in March; Lakarda and Anantpura for
sighting sloth bears; and Raj Bagh ruins,
located between Padam talao and Raj Bagh
talao, with charming ruins of ancient stone BELOW: There is
structures. The fort of Khandar on the far indeed nothing like
side of the reserve is well worth a visit for the spotting a tiger in the
stunning views of the surrounding area. wild

31

ABOVE LEFT AND
RIGHT: The beautiful
Sarus crane and
cormorant are amongst
the commonest birds
spotted in Keoladeo
At a glance
District: Bharatpur
Distance: Delhi (223 kms),
Jaipur (183 kms)
Nearest Railhead: Bharatpur
Junction (5 kms)
Nearest Airport: Agra (54 kms)
...............................................
Best time to visit: Aug-Nov,
Oct-Feb
Timings: 6 am-6 pm
Closed from: May-June
32
WILD TRAILS IN INDIA
KE<>5HE< G75=5 NP | R5O5F;75=
A mere 50 kms west of the city of the Taj,
Agra, Keoladeo Ghana National Park, formerly
known as the Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, is
one of the best birding destinations in India.
With over 360 resident and migratory species,
including the rare and endangered Siberian
crane, Keoladeo National Park is immensely
popular among ornithologists, birders as well
as curious tourists.
Previously the private duck shooting preserve
of the Maharaja of Bharatpur, this rich wetland
ecosystem is believed to have been formed
Entry fee: Rs 25 (Indians);
Rs 200 (Foreigners)
Camera fee: Free
...............................................
Major fauna: Siberian crane,
great egret, warbler, painted
stork, Asian open-billed stork,
Oriental ibis
....................................................
Where to stay: Private
accommodation available
 North India

following the construction of the Ajan Bund

in the mid 18th century. Duck shootings were
organised here annually in honour of British
viceroys and were hugely popular. In a single
shoot in 1938, it is recorded that over 4,273
birds were killed by Lord Linlithgow, the then
Governor-General of India.

Spread over 29 sq km, Keoladeo was notied

as a National Park in 1982 and declared a
UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. It has
recently been renamed aGer the Keoladeo
(Shiva) temple that stands within its
boundaries.

Designated a wetland of international

importance under the Ramsar Convention, it
is a complex of ten articial, seasonal lagoons,
varying in size, situated in a densely populated
region. The vegetation is a mosaic of scrub
and open grasslands that provides habitat for
breeding, wintering and staging migratory
birds. Animals such as sambar, nilgai, chital
and wild boar are also commonly spoDed here.
During winters, it is preDy common to see
enormous pythons (2.4 -3 m long) sun-bathing
in the open.

The best way to explore the park is on a bicycle. ABOVE: A pair of

Cycles can be hired from the ticket oce, handsome nilgais
where you will also receive a map of the park. striking a pose

33
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

SG>;5=PG? B8?H S5=6;G5?J | H5?J5=5

A popular weekend getaway or Dev Chauhan, descendants of
even a day trip from Delhi, the the famed warrior, Prithviraj
145-ha Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary Chauhan.
plays host to over 250 bird
species, including painted storks, The bird sanctuary was
demoiselle cranes, cormorants, discovered by the famous
spoDed sandpipers, mallards and ornithologist and Honorary
plovers. The sanctuary is a haven Secretary of the Delhi
for birdwatchers and is best Birdwatching Society, Peter
visited in winter when migratory Jackson, who wrote to then
birds come here in hoards. Prime Minister of India,
Its uctuating population of Ms Indira Gandhi, founder of the
avifauna includes an estimated Society, about the need to declare
150 resident species and over 100 the Sultanpur jheel near Delhi,
visiting species from Europe, a bird sanctuary, and she asked
Afghanistan, Siberia and to be escorted there. Sultanpur
elsewhere. was declared a bird sanctuary in
1972, and in 1989, designated a
Sultanpur is named aGer raja national park.
Sultan Singh Chauhan, successor
of the Rajput ruler, Harsh BELOW: The white Eurasian spoonbills

At a glance
District: Gurgaon Video fee: Rs 100
....................................................
Nearest Airport and Railhead:
Major fauna: Common hoopoe,
Delhi (40 kms)
.................................................... Paddyfield pipit, Purple sunbird,
Best time to visit: Nov-March Little cormorant, Indian
Timings: 9 am-5 pm Cormorant, Common Spoonbill,
Open all year round Gray Francolin, Black francolin,
....................................................
Indian roller, White-throated
Entry fee: Rs 5 (Indians); Rs 40
kingfisher
(Foreigners) ....................................................
Jeep Safari: Rs 200 per group Where to stay: Haryana Tourism
Elephant Safari: Rs 100 per group guest house, Rosy Pelican inside
Guide fee: Rs 20 the sanctuary.
Camera fee: Rs 40

34
 CENTRAL INDIA
Central India
B5=H75Q95?7 N5;8<=5> P5?@ | MP
Nestled in the Vindhya hills,
Bandhavgarh was the erstwhile
hunting ground of the royal
family of Rewa before it
acquired the status of a National
Park in 1968 and a Tiger Reserve
in 1993. It is said to have the
densest population of the big cat
in India. In fact, it was here that
the rare and majestic white tiger
was rst captured in 1951, by
Maharaja Martand Singh.
The most famous landmark in
Bandhavgarh are the ruins of the
ancient Bandhavgarh Fort. These
sal and bamboo forests also
shelter ruins of ancient temples
and caves, as well as kunds or
At a glance
District: Umaria
Nearest Airport: Jabalpur
(164 kms)
Nearest Railhead: Umaria
(32 kms), Katni (102 kms)
...............................................
Best time to visit: Oct-June
Timings: 6.30am to 11am,
2.30pm to 5.30pm
Closed from: July-Sept
...............................................
Entry fee: Rs 2,000 (Indians);
Rs 4,000 (foreigners)
Jeep Safari charges (incl entry fee,
guide charges, jeep charges):
Tala zone: Rs 6,000
Magadhi and Khitauli zone:
Rs 5,000
tanks that feed the perennial
stream Charanganga, the lifeline
of the park. Kabir, the medieval
poet and saint, is said to have
meditated in one of these caves.
The park has three safari zones:
Tala Zone (Gate-1), Magdhi Zone
(Gate-2), Khitauli Zone (Gate-3), each
with its own distinct character.
Popular spots within the park,
with greater chances of tiger
sightings, include Bari Gufa,
Gopalpur Waterhole, Mahavan
Talab, Sukha Dam, Sita Mandap,
Akla Pahari and Ghora Demon.
ABOVE: Herd of cheetal
BELOW: Purple sunbird
Guide fee: Rs 200
Elephant Safari: Rs 700 per
person per hour (Indians)
Camera fee: Rs 25
Video fee: Rs 200
...............................................
Major fauna: Tiger, chausingha,
leopard, niilgai, spotted deer,
wild boar
....................................................
Where to stay: Options for
both high-end and budget
accommodation, private and
government, are available in and
around the park
35
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

K5=75 N5;8<=5> P5?@ | MP

T
his lush wildlife reserve, watered
by the Banjar and Hallon rivers, is
spread across 1,945 sq km. It abounds
in meadows, sal forests, bamboo groves
and boasts a rich oral diversity. Declared a
National Park in 1955, the hauntingly beautiful
wilderness of Kanha, along with Pench (see p 38),
is said to have inspired Rudyard Kiplings
Jungle Book, and is popularly referred to as
Kiplings Country.

Kanha is prime tiger country and is also

the only park in central India where the
endangered swamp deer or barasingha is
found. The park can be accessed from three
gates: Khatia/Kisli Gate, the oldest, is closest
to the core zone and most mid-level resorts
are built around it; most of the luxurious
resorts are around Mukki Gate; while Sarahi
BELOW: The majestic is the newest to be opened to tourists and not
Bengal tiger yet as popular.

36
Incidentally, Kanha is also a birdwatchers ABOVE: Elephant
dream. Dabchicks, egrets, whitenecked storks, safaris are by far the
lesser adjutants, black ibis and blackwinged best way to observe
stilts are among the more common species wildlife at its closest
seen in and around water bodies or streams. BELOW: Barasingha

For rare wildlife sightings, make trips to

Bamnhi Dadar, Bishanpura, Sondhar, Ghorella
and the central Kanha Meadow inside the
park. These meadows or maidans which are
basically open grasslands that have sprung up
in elds of abandoned villages, evacuated to
make way for the animals. Kanha meadow is
one such example. Enjoy walking and cycling
in the buer zone. Visit the nearby villages,
Sarekha, Garhi, Lagma, Mocha, and the Gond
painters village, Patangarh.

At a glance
Location (district): Mandla and Jeep Safari (incl entry fee, guide
Balaghat charges, jeep charges):
Nearest Railhead: Jabalpur Kisli/ Mukki zone: Rs 5,000
(165 kms) Sarahi zone: Rs 7,000
Nearest Airport: Jabalpur Elephant safari also available
(165 kms), Nagpur (275 kms) Camera/ video: Free
.................................................... ....................................................
Best time to visit: Mid Oct-June Major fauna: Tiger, leopard,
Timings: Sunrise-12 pm, barasingha, gaur, chausingha,
3 pm-sunset sambar, wild dog
....................................................
Closed from: July-Sep Where to stay: Both high-end and
...............................................
Entry fee: Rs 500/jeep (Indians); budget places places available
....................................................
Rs 2,000/jeep (Foreigners)

37
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

PE=67 N5;8<=5> P5?@ | MP

Southwest of Kanha National Park, Pench
once formed part of a huge contiguous
forest that included Kanha. In fact, these
two parks together provided the seDing for
Rudyard Kiplings, Jungle Book, serving as the
playground for Mowglis adventures. Formally
called Indira Priyadarshini Pench National
Park, the park gets its name from the river
Pench that meanders through it.

The park, spread across Madhya Pradesh and

Maharashtra, can be accessed from either state.
ABOVE: A poster of The 16th century chronicle of Emperor Akbars
the Disney movie, reign, Ain-i-Akbari, talks of its natural wealth
Jungle Book, based and richness. Its considerable shrub cover and
on Rudyard Kipling's open, grassy patches are the reason for the
famous books inspired signicantly higher herbivore population as
from the central Indian compared to Kanha and Bandhavgarh. The
forests prey concentration is highest along the banks
BELOW: Jeep safari in of river Pench.
Pench National Park
The parks undulating topography supports
a mosaic of vegetation ranging from moist,
sheltered valleys to open, dry deciduous
forests. Over 1,200 species of plants have been
recorded in the area, including several rare
and endangered species as well as plants of
ethno-botanical importance.

Pench Tiger Reserve is also among the best

areas in central India for bird-watching. Four
species of the now endangered vulture
white-rumped, long billed, Egyptian and red-
headed can be seen in good numbers inside
the reserve.

38
There are over 285 species of resident and ABOVE: The tiger looks
migratory birds including the Malabar pied into the camera
hornbill, Indian piDa,osprey, grey-headed BELOW: A pair of
shing eagle, white-eyed buzzard, etc. In bisons
winter, migratory waterfowl including
Brahmini duck, pochard and bar-headed geese
arrive in thousands at the Pench reservoir to
make it their home for the winter months.

At a glance
District: Seoni Jeep Safari charges (incl entry
Nearest Airport and Railhead: fee, guide charges, jeep charges):
Jabalpur (180 kms), Rs 4,500 (Indians); Rs 7,000
Nagpur (80 kms) (foreigners)
.................................................... Camera fee: Rs 500-1,000
Best time to visit: Oct-June Video fee: Rs 1,500
Timings: Sunrise-12 pm, ....................................................
3 pm-sunset Major fauna: Tiger, leopard,
chinkara, chausingha, sloth bear
Closed from: July-Sep ....................................................
....................................................
Where to stay: Government-run
MPTDC as well as private hotels
and guest houses.

39
P5==5 N5;8<=5> P5?@ | M5H7J5 P?5HEF7
Situated only 32 kms from
the World Heritage Site of
Khajuraho, Panna National Park
on the banks of river Ken is much
visited due to its proximity to the
world-renowned temples.
The 666 sq km park with its deep
gorges, valleys, waterfalls and
lush teak forests was declared
a Tiger Reserve under Project
Tiger in 1994. The river Ken, a
perennial river, runs through
Panna National Park.
The depleting tiger population
in Panna has been successfully
regulated with relocation of the
big cat from the nearby parks,
Kanha, Bandhavgarh and Pench.
At a glance
District: Panna
Nearest Airport and Railhead:
Khajuraho (32 kms)
....................................................
Best time to visit: January-April
Closed from: July-September
Timings: 6.30 am-10.30 am;
2.30 pm-4 pm (Oct-Feb)
6 am-10 am; 3 pm-6 pm (Feb-June)
....................................................
Entry fee: Rs 40 (Indians); Rs 500
(Foreigners)
Safari charges: Rs 1,000 (Indians);
Rs 2,000 (foreigners)
Camera fee: Rs 40
40
Apart from the tiger sightings,
the park is also sought after for
its spectacular panorama dotted
with ancient rock paintings
believed to be around 2,000
years old.
Visit the charming Pandav Falls
inside the park, where the ve
Pandava brothers are believed to
have stayed during their exile. A
visit to the nearby Ken Gharial
Sanctuary is highly recommended
for sightings of long-snouted
gharials and marsh crocodiles,
locally called muggers.
ABOVE: The Ken river flowing through
Panna National Park is known for its
clear waters
Video fee: Rs 200
....................................................
Major fauna: Tiger, gharial,
mugger, wolf, sloth bear,
spotted deer, chinkara, many
species of birds
....................................................
Where to stay: Private
accommodation available.
Khajuraho has a range of hotels
....................................................
Contact: Field Director, Panna
National Park, Ph: (07732)
252135, or log on to www.
pannatigerreserve.in
 Central India
K5=9E? G75;8 NP | C775;;8F95?7
Located in the 34-km long and
scenic Kanger Valley Biosphere
Reserve, Kanger Ghati National
Park is 27 kms from Jagdalpur, in
Bastar district the rich tribal belt
of ChhaDisgarh. It aDained the
status of a National Park in 1982.
Spread over an area of 200 sq
km, the park derives its name
from the Kanger river that ows
through its length. A mixed
moist, deciduous forest, it has
a predominance of sal, teak
and bamboo.
The national park is home to
not just a rich variety of fauna
At a glance
District: Bastar
Nearest Airport: Raipur
(330 kms)
Nearest Railhead: Jagdalpur
(27 kms)
....................................................
Best time to visit: Sept-Feb
Timings: 8 am - 4 pm
....................................................
Closed from: June-Sept
Entry fee: Rs 25 (Indians);
Rs 200 (Foreigners)
and avifauna, but also three
exceptional caves Kutumsar,
Kailash and Dandak famous
for their astounding formations
of stalagmites and stalactites.
The other popular sites within
the park include the stunning
Tirathgarh waterfalls, Kanger
Dhara and Bhaimsa Dhara (a
crocodile park).
Interestingly, the Kanger Valley
is the only region in peninsular
India with pockets of virgin and
untouched forests.
BELOW: The graceful sambar deer
Vehicle Fee: Rs 200
Camera Fee: Rs 25
Video Fee: Rs 200
....................................................
Major fauna: Tiger, leopard,
mouse deer, wild cat, bison,
chausingha, wolf, chital, sambhar,
barking deer, jackal, langur, sloth
bear, flying squirrel, wild boar
....................................................
Where to stay: Jagdalpur has
several private hotels
41
A675=5@:5? WLS | C775;;8F95?7
Achanakmar Wildlife Sanctuary, the leopard, gaur, nilgai, chital,
established in 1975, is the prime barking deer, bear, etc.
tiger territory in ChhaDisgarh.
Covering an area of 557.55 sq The sanctuary is close to the
km, the region is mainly hilly pilgrim town of Amarkantak
with altitudes ranging from 200 m where river Narmada originates.
to 1,000 m above sea level. The The Kanha-Achanakmar corridor
vegetation mainly comprises sal, connects Kanha Tiger Reserve
saja, tinsa, ba and bamboo. in Madhya Pradesh with
Achanakmar Wildlife Sanctuary
The park was declared a Tiger in ChhaDisgarh.
Reserve under the Project Tiger
in 2009. Besides the tiger, the
sanctuary is home to several ABOVE: Nilgai or blue bull
other animal species including BELOW: Sal leaves

At a glance
District: Bilaspur Where to stay: Both CTB
Nearest Railhead: Pendra Road rest houses and private
(25 kms), Bilaspur (40 kms) accomodation
Nearest Airport: Raipur (184 kms)
....................................................
Best time to visit: Nov-June
Closed from: July-Sept
....................................................
Major fauna: Tiger, leopard,
gaur, chital, jackal, striped hyena,
nilgai, wild dog, barking deer,
wild buffalo, bear

42
 EAST INDIA
BE;>5 N5;8<=5> P5?@ | J75?@75=H
Located in the Chota Nagpur
plateau, Betla National Park is
one of the rst national parks in
India to be designated a Tiger
Reserve under Project Tiger. The
lush tropical forest is said to be
an acronym of the major fauna it
inhabits: bison, elephant, tiger,
leopard, axis-axis (chital).
Spread over 250 sq km, Betla
is situated at an average
elevation of about 305 m,
with vegetation ranging from
tropical wet evergreen forests
in the lower reaches, mixed
deciduous forests in the middle
and temperate alpine forests in
the upper reaches. It is doDed
with waterfalls and natural
springs, prominently Lodh and
Sugabandh Falls and Tataha
Hotwater Spring.
At a glance
District: Palamau
Nearest Airport: Ranchi (170 kms)
Nearest Railhead: Barwadih
Junction (15 kms)
...............................................
Open all year round
Best time to visit: Nov-April
Timings: 9am - 5pm
...............................................
Entry fee: Rs 10 (Indians);
Rs 200 (Foreigners)
Jeep Safari: Rs 200 per group
Elephant Safari: Rs 100 per group
Betla village is the only entry
point to the park. One may
take elephant and jeep safaris
to venture deep inside the
jungles, go to the watch towers
at the various viewpoints. It is
indeed one of the best parks in
east India for spoDing wildlife
from close quarters, and this
is arguably possible because
the park is criss-crossed by
motorable roads.
A part of Betla was declared
Palamau Tiger Reserve in 1974.
Notably, the rst tiger census in
the world was conducted in this
park, in 1932. The park also has
the remains of a 16th century fort
of the Chero kings who ruled
Palamau during that period.
ABOVE LEFT: Elephant safari in Betla
ABOVE RIGHT: A peacock in its finery
Guide fee: Rs 20
Camera fee: Rs 50
....................................................
Major fauna: Tiger and elephant,
leopard, gaur, sambar and wild
dogs
...............................................
Where to stay: Van Vihar Tourist
Complex, Betla Tiger Project
Bungalow, private accomodation
...............................................
Contact: Director, Project Tiger,
Betla, Ph: 0656286-350
43
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA
H5R5?8N597 N5;8<=5> P5?@ | J75?@75=H
Situated 90 kms from the state
capital, Ranchi, and 19 kms from
Hazaribagh town, Hazaribagh
National Park combines scenic
beauty, dense forests and rich
ora and fauna, with temperate
climate all year round. Sal (Shorea
robusta) is the dominant tree
specie here. Tiger sighting, though
rare, are worth looking out for;
though according to 1991 census,
there were only 14 tigers here, and
there may be even fewer now.
At a glance
District: Hazaribagh
Nearest Railhead: Koderma
Station (59 kms), Hazaribagh
Road Railway Station (67 kms)
Nearest Airport: Ranchi (94 kms)
...............................................
Best time to visit: Oct-March
Closed from: June-Sep
No permit required
...............................................
Entry fee: Rs 50
Safari Timings: 5pm -10 pm
Vehicle fee: Different kinds of
vehicles available, ranging from a
motorcycle to a bus.
44
A motorable road running
through the sanctuary takes the
tourists to the remotest corners,
and the ten observation towers
provide close sightings of wildlife.
Unmetered taxis, auto rickshaws,
cycle rickshaws can be hired for
a return trip to the park from the
Hazaribagh town.
ABOVE: Python resting on a tree
No guide or camera fee
...............................................
Major fauna: sloth bear, tiger,
panther, reptiles
...............................................
Where to stay: There is a Tourist
Lodge, Forest Rest House
at Rajderwah, 30 kms from
Hazaribagh. Private accommodation
available at Hazaribagh
...............................................
Contact: Divisional Forest Officer,
West Division, Hazaribagh,
TeleFax (06546) 222339
 East India

S8:>8P5> N5;8<=5> P5?@ | OH8F75

Originally a hunting ground for the headquarters of Mayurbhanj
the Mayurbhanj royal family, district) or Jashipur (94 km from
Simlipal was designated a Tiger Baripada). Rich in ora, the park
Reserve in 1956 and a biosphere is recorded to have 96 dierent
reserve in 1994. Spread over 2,750 species of orchids! Bird-watching
sq km, the park gets its name trips are organised on demand
from semul or red silk coDon from Gurguria, Jamuani,
trees that bloom abundantly in Jashipur, Pithabata.
these forests.
BELOW: Barehipani Falls, inside the park
Simlipal gained popularity in
the 1970s aGer a 2-month old
abandoned tiger cub, Khairi,
was adopted by a forest ocer in
1974, who raised her in his own
house. She became the mascot
for the Project Tiger movement
in Simlipal and was the greatest
aDraction of the park until she
died in 1981.

The park is criss-crossed by

rivers, prominent among them
being Budhabalanga, Kharkai
and Deo, and has splendid
waterfalls including Barehipani
(400 m) and Joranda (150 m).

Entry to the park is from

Pithabata (22 km from Baripada,

At a glance
District: Mayurbhanj
Nearest Airport: Bhubaneswar
(270 kms) and Kolkata (240 km)
Nearest Railhead: Balasore
(60 km from Baripada)
...............................................
Closed: 15 June-31 Oct
Best time to visit: Nov-May
...............................................
Permit: From the Range Officer,
Pithabata check gate or the
Assistant Conservator of Forests
at Jashipur (06797-252240) on
payment of prescribed fees.
...............................................
Entry fee: Rs 40 (Indians);
Rs 1,000 (Foreigners)
Vehicle fee: Rs 100 per day
Camera fee: Charges vary with
kind of cameras
Video fee (per camera/day):
Rs 5,000 (Indians); Rs 20,000
(Foreigners)
....................................................
Major fauna: Tiger, elephant
....................................................
Where to stay: Odisha Tourism
Units at Lulung (3 kms from
Pithabata) and Bangiriposi
(35 kms from Baripada). Private
Hotels are available at Baripada
and Jashipur.
...............................................
Contact: 06792 252 593
Asst. Conservator of Forests,
National Park, Jashipur

45
C78>@5 W8>H>8KE S5=6;G5?J | OH8F75
Southwest of Puri is the inland
Chilka Lake, the largest coastal
lagoon in India. In 1981, it was
designated the rst Indian
wetland of international
importance under the Ramsar
Convention. The marshes,
lowlands, and islands in its
shallow waters aDract over 160
species of birds in the migratory
season, while the surrounding
hills and sandy stretches abound
in a variety of fauna. It is no
wonder then that the 1,100-sq km
Chilka Wildlife Sanctuary is
one of the most visited wildlife
sanctuaries in Odisha.
Boats to the sanctuary, run both
by OTDC and private operators,
can be hired from Barkul,
Rambha, Balugaon and Satpada.
The large shing community
seDled around adds avour to
At a glance
District: Puri
Nearest Airport: Bhubaneswar
(120 kms)
Nearest Railhead: Balugaon
and Rambha, both on Howrah-
Chennai rail line
...............................................
Open all year round
Best time to visit: Oct-March
Timings: 7.30am - 6pm
...............................................
46
the lake; their sail boats bobbing
expertly across the water are a
reminder of the ancient maritime
heritage of Odisha. OGen, the
shermen allow visitors to
accompany them on their boats.
Chilka Lake also supports 118
species of sh, including several
commercially important species.
TOP: A group of lesser flamingoes
flying over Chilka Lake
ABOVE: Boat ride on Chilka Lake
Major fauna: Cheetal, blackbuck,
monkey, mongoose, and
porcupine, Jacana, purple
moorhen, white-bellied sea
eagle, greylag geese, heron and
flamingo
....................................................
Where to stay: Forest Rest
Houses around the lake at
Balugaon, Rambha and Satpada
....................................................
Contact: (06756) 211012
 East India
B78;5?@5=8@5 N5;8<=5> P5?@ | OH8F75
Extending over 600 sq km,
with more than sixty varieties
of mangroves, Bhitarkanika
National Park is one of the nest
remaining patches of mangrove
forests along the Indian coast.
The sites Gahirmatha beach is
said to host the largest known
Olive Ridley sea turtle nesting
beach in the world, with half a
million nesting annually. It has
the highest density of saltwater
crocodile in the country, with
nearly 700 Crocodylus porosus.
Also designated a wetland of
international importance under
the Ramsar Convention, it is the
second largest compact mangrove
ecosystem in India. Bounded by
rivers on three sides and the sea
on the fourth, Bhitarkanika is cut
across by numerous creeks and
canals, and is home to a variety
of rare and endangered species.
As the tide comes in, the forest
At a glance
District: Kendrapara
Approach: Only through
waterways. Most convenient
entry points: Dhamara (40 kms
from Jamujhadi and 92 kms from
Balasore), Chandbali (60 kms
from Bhadrak and 190 kms from
Bhubaneswar), Rajnagar (30 kms
from Kendrapara and 130 kms
from Bhubaneswar).
Motor boats are available on hire
from these access points.
Regular bus service is available to
Chandbali and Rajnagar.
Nearest Airport: Bhubaneswar
(120 kms)
Nearest Railhead: Bhadrak
(60 kms from Chandbali), Balasore
(110 kms from Chandbali),
....................................................
Closed: 14 May-31 July
Best time to visit: Oct-June
Permit: Divisional Forest Officer,
oats, and with the receding tide,
the mud ats on the banks expose
scampering ddler crabs, mud
skipper sh, liDle reptiles and the
like. The pneumatophores, beDer
known as breathing roots, stand
like sentries of the land. A pride
possession of this park is the rare
white crocodile (sankhua).
BELOW: There are specially organised
tours for sighting the shy olive ridley
turtles in Odisha
Rajnagar, Ph (06729) 72460;
Asst Conservator of Forests,
Chandbali, Ph (06786) 20372
...............................................
Entry fee: Rs 20 (Indians);
Rs 1000 (Foreigners)
Vehicle fee: Rs 20
Camera fee: Rs 25 (Indians);
Rs 50 (Foreigners)
Video fee: Rs 500 (Indians);
Rs 1,000 (Foreigners)
...............................................
Major fauna: Water monitor
lizard, flying fox, wild dog,
leopard, wild boar, four horned
antelope, chinkara, hyena, nilgai
...............................................
Where to stay: Forest rest houses
and jungle lodges at Dangmal,
Ekakula, Habalikhati and Gupti
that have to be booked in
advance.
...............................................
Contact: rajnagarwildlife@gmail.
com
47

ABOVE: Spo=ed
deer grazing in the
Sunderbans. The
bayonet-like roots
of the sundari tree
protruding out of the
clayey soil can be seen
in the foreground
SG=HE?N5=F NP | WEF; BE=95>
A liDle over a hundred kilometres from the
frenetic bustle of Kolkata is an enchanting
world, ensconced in the deep forests of the
Sundarbans. Widely recognised as untamable
country ruled by the Royal Bengal tiger,
Sunderbans mystique is unparalleled. Its
unique ecosystem comprises creeks and
rivulets bordered with primeval mangrove
forests that hold together the small islands of
mud on which they stand. This is a land that is
swept over twice each day, by tides up to 2.15 m
high from the Bay of Bengal.
Bounded by river Hooghly in the west and
the Bay of Bengal in the south, Sunderbans is
the largest mangrove forest in the world (over

At a glance
District: South 24 Parganas
By Road: 100 kms from Kolkata
to Sonakhali, from where
launches ferry passengers to
Sunderbans. Other access points
include Namkhana, Bakkhali and
Hingalganj, about 105, 132 and
69 kms from Kolkata, respectively.
Nearest Airport: Kolkata (112 kms)
Nearest Railhead: Canning
(48 kms)
...............................................
Open all year round; though
monsoons are best avoided
Best time to visit: Oct-March
Permit: For foreigners: Jt Sec,
Forests, Govt of West Bengal,
4th Floor, G-Block, Writers Bldg,
Kolkata; Ph 22145048
..................................................
Major fauna: Tiger, salt water
crocodile, fishing cat, wild boar,
mongoose, cheetal
...................................................
Where to stay: Forest lodge and
forest rest-houses are available
at Sajnekhali, Bakkhali and Piyali.
Private accommodation also
available.
...............................................

48
 East India

10,200 sq km), stretching over Sundarbans is where the

the international border dividing onslaught of humanity fades and
India and Bangladesh, situated the tiger reigns supreme. This is
in what is also the worlds largest the world's largest tiger reserve
riverine delta that is formed by the with over 300 tigers according to
mighty Ganga and Brahmaputra. 2006 tiger census.
Unlike other wildlife parks where
roads, jeeps and guides provide
a semblance of control, here visitors will nd
themselves holding their breath and stiening
to a state of alertness as their boat glides
through the creeks and forests that shelter
dangers in their impenetrable undergrowth.

The Royal Bengal tigers in Sunderbans

have developed a unique characteristic of
swimming in the saline waters, and are
notorious as being man-eaters. Tourists
are not permiDed into the core zone but
can visit the buer zone which includes
Sajnekhali Wildlife Sanctuary, Lothian
Wildlife Sanctuary and Halliday Wildife
Sanctuary. The park has strategically-placed
watchtowers, reached through corridors
covered in protective net fencing, to see its
unique landscape and fauna.

In 1987, the entire Sunderban region, covering

both India and Bangladesh, was declared a
World Natural Heritage Site by UNESCO, and
soon aGer proclaimed a Biosphere Reserve.

Olive ridley turtles swim to these shores from

distant oceans from January-March to lay eggs BELOW: A white stork
on the beaches here. in the silts

49
ABOVE: The
one-horned
Indian rhinoceros
is the most famous
resident of Jaldapara
Wildlife Sanctuary
J5>H5P5?5 NP | WEF; BE=95>
AGer Sunderbans, Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary
is the most visited wildlife destination in West
Bengal. The sanctuary was established in 1941
for the protection of the one-horned Indian
rhinoceros. It is also one of the few remaining
places in India where the critically-endangered
Bengal orican or the Bengal bustard
(Houbaropsis bengalensis) can be sighted.

The 216 sq km area of Jaldapara is a mosaic

of dense forests, extensive belts of elephant
grass (oGen reaching a height of 2-3 m),
perennial streams and sandy river banks. The
entire area is criss-crossed with numerous
fast-owing streams and rivulets like
Malangi, Chira Khawa and Hollong.

At a glance
District: Jalpaiguri
Distance: Siliguri (141 kms)
Nearest Airport: Bagdogra
Nearest Railhead: Madarihat RS
(75 kms) connected to Siliguri by
daily Inter-City Express
...............................................
Closed from: 15 June-15 Sep
Best time to visit: Oct-Feb
...............................................
Entry fee: Rs 100 (Indians);
Rs 150 (Foreigners)
Jeep Safari: Rs 1,600 for 6 people
(incl guide fee)
Elephant Safari: Rs 500 (Indians);
Rs 750 (Foreigners)
Camera fee: Rs 50
Major fauna: One-horned
rhinoceros, Bengal tiger,
elephant, sambar, wild pig
....................................................
Where to stay: Jaldapara Tourist
Lodge, Hollong Tourist Lodge,
private accomodation
...................................................
Contact: West Bengal Tourist
Department (033) 22488271,
22437260; West Bengal Forest
Dev Corp (033) 22370060

50
Besides the rhino, the park is also
home to a sizeable population of
elephants, leopards, gaurs and
a variety of deer and is also a
paradise for bird lovers.
Interestingly, the elephants
used for safaris in Jaldapara
are employees of the state
government and draw monthly
slalaries, have a retirement age
and are eligible for pension post
retirement!
All the forests of north Bengal
remain closed during the
monsoons (15 June-15 September).
Further, it is not advisable to
travel to the forests immediately
after they open as monsoons in
north Bengal may stretch well into
October. Also, immediately after
the monsoons, roads can be in a
bad shape and the journey may be
longer and more difficult than in
the dry seasons.

Torsha river separates a stretch of

deep forests from the main sanctuary. Known ABOVE: Enjoy the park
as Chilapata, this stretch is so impenetrable on an elephant safari
that driving through them is like carving through the dense
ones way through a green tunnel! It acts as forest criss-crossed
an elephant corridor between Jaldapara and with streams
Buxa Tiger Reserve. Deep inside Chilapata
forest are the remains of an ancient fort
which historians say could date back to the
Gupta period (4th-7th centuries AD).

The small town of Madarihat is the gateway

to Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary. Bookings
for elephant and jeep safaris can be made at
Tourism Centres at Madarihat, Siliguri, Kolkata.

Khayerbari, 11 kms from Madarihat, has a

Leopard Rehabilitation Centre and Nature
Park set up by the Forest Department,
Government of West Bengal. Totopara, 22 kms
from Madarihat is home to Toto tribe, one of
the least numerous tribes in the world.

51
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA
NE<?5 V5>>EJ N5;8<=5> P5?@ | WEF; BE=95>
Spread over an area of 88 sq
km in Darjeeling district, the
incredibly beautiful Neora
Valley National Park is one of the
richest ecological zones in the
country. Established in 1986, the
park is named aGer river Neora
that runs through it.
Nestled in the valley of the
Kalimpong hills, it is known
for its numerous varieties of
rhododendrons, orchids and
ferns. The parks unique
combination of mixed ora and
climate makes it the habitat
of endangered faunal species
like the red panda, clouded
leopard and musk deer. Other
species that live here include
the leopard, ve species of civet,
black bear, sloth bear, golden
cat, wild boar, leopard cat, goral,
At a glance
District: Darjeeling
Distances from Lava: Kalimpong
(32 kms), Darjeeling (81 kms)
Nearest Airport: Bagdogra (119
kms from Lava)
Nearest Railhead: New Jalpaiguri
railway station
...............................................
Closed: July-Sep
Can be visited all year round
Permit: From the Forest Dept in
Lava/ Samsing/ Kalimpong
52
serow, barking deer, sambar and
Himalayan ying squirrel, and
Himalayan tahr.
It also has an amazing variety
of buDeries, the most aD ractive
among them being Kaiser-i-hind
and Krishna Peacock.
Hathi Danda, at 2,743 m, was a
route for elephant migration till
1940. Today you can trek through
this uphill path and experience
the thrill of identifying the many
dierent wild call.
A trek through the forests of
the park, from Samsing to Bhote
Ghar, Thusum, Rechela, Alubari
and then Lava is both popular
and thrilling. Snow-capped
mountains form the backdrop for
forests of oak, rhododendron,
sal, and dense bamboo groves.
Neora Valley National Park
has two entry points, Lava and
Samsing. Lava, a picturesque
hamlet, has a WBFDC-run
Nature Interpretation Centre
and Buddhist Monastery that are
worth a visit. WBFDC also has a
forest rest house in Samsing.
LEFT: The endearing red panda, a
major highlight of the park
Major fauna: Leopard, red
panda, black bear, sloth bear,
birds, butterflies
....................................................
Where to stay: Budget
and moderate range forest
bungalows, rest houses in Lava
and around Lava
...............................................
Contact: West Bengal Tourism
office, Darjeeling, Ph (0354)
2254050/ 2254101
...............................................
 NORTHEAST INDIA
K75=967E=HR<=95 N5;8<=5> P5?@ | S8@@8:
Set against the backdrop of the
majestic Kanchenjunga massif
and spread across 1,784 sq km,
the Khangchendzonga National
Park is one of the largest wildlife
reserves in India.
With habitats ranging from wet
and temperate zones to the
alpine, the park is home to a
variety of fauna and avifauna.
The temperate zone, between
1,500 and 5,000 m is the abode
of rhododendrons, that set the
mountains ablaze when in bloom
in early summer. The heights
above 5,000 m are a treeless
wilderness, which are out in
beauty when the primulas come
At a glance
District: North Sikkim
Nearest Railhead: New Jalpaiguri,
Siliguri (221 kms)
Nearest Airport: Bagdogra
(222 kms)
...............................................
Best time to visit: April-May
(rhododendron season),
Aug-Oct
Entry fee: Rs 200 (Indians);
Rs 400 (Foreigners)
to life, and carpet the land in
blues, mauves and purples. An
astounding 250 bird species have
been recorded, including the
blood pheasant, monal pheasant,
and the western tragopan.
The park oers ample
opportunity for trekking. The
most popular trek begins at
Yuksom, and goes past the sleepy
hamlets of Bakhim and Tshokha,
to Dzongris meadows. You can
also visit beautiful Buddhist
monasteries, and delve into
the simple life of the locals far
removed from modern life.
ABOVE: Trekkers in the park
Timings: 6 am - 6 pm
Camera fee: Rs 20
...............................................
Major fauna: Clouded leopard,
snow leopard, red panda,
binturong, musk deer, serow,
blue sheep
...............................................
Where to stay: Forest rest houses
inside the park
53
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

K5R8?5=95 NP | AFF5:
Notied a wildlife sanctuary in 1940, the
Kaziranga National Park, situated in Nagaon
and Golaghat districts of Assam, lies at
the foot of the Mikir hills. Located on the
oodplains on both sides of the Brahmaputra,
the park lies at the cusp of the Indo-Malayan
biological realm. Patches of mixed deciduous
forests are interspersed with vast stretches of
savannah grasslands, wetlands and chars or
river islands formed by the shiG ing course of
the Brahmaputra.

Kaziranga boasts of the largest population of

one-horned rhinoceros. Its dense forests have
not only protected these mammals who are
poached for their horns, but has also become
a safe haven for other animals. As early as in
1908, Kaziranga was declared a reserve forest
and hunting was banned here, and it was listed
as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985.

The park entrances are located just o the

National Highway (NH-37) that cuts right
through the Kaziranga National Park,
connecting Guwahati with Jorhat.

54
 Northeast India

At a glance
District: Golaghat and Nagaon
Nearest Railhead: Furkating
(80 kms)
Nearest Airport: Jorhat (96 kms),
Guwahati (239 kms)
..................................................
Best time to visit: Sept-Oct;
Feb-March
Timings: Sunrise-sunset
Closed from: June-July
..................................................
Entry fee: Rs 20 (Indians);
Rs 250 (Foreigners)
..................................................
Jeep Safari (incl entry fee, guide
charges, jeep charges): Rs 1,500
for a full day
Elephant safari: Rs 200 (Indians),
Rs 600 (Foreigners)
Camera/ video: Rs 50 (Indians);
Rs 500 (Foreigners)
....................................................
Major fauna: One-horned
rhinoceros, wild water buffalo,
elephant, swamp deer, gaur
....................................................
Where to stay: Tourist lodges
at Kohora, Bagori and Agoratoli
inside the park

The best way to spot wildlife in Kaziranga is BELOW: Tourists

on an elephant-back, though jeep safaris are embark on elephant
also available. As the gentle creatures tread safaris for rhino
through the tall grass, ones senses become spotting
keenly aware of the quiet and vastness of the
horizon fringed with blue mountains.

Kaziranga is also a haven for bird lovers,

with nearly 5,000 birds spoDed at lakes inside
the park, the commonest being crane and
amingo.

55
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

M5=5F N5;8<=5> P5?@ | AFF5:

ABOVE: Manas Manas National Park, 176 kms by road from
National Park in Guwahati, is spectacularly located at the
Assam extends into the foothills of the Himalayas, bordering Bhutan.
Royal Manas National It is divided by the Manas river into the part
Park in Bhutan that is India and Royal Manas National Park
in Bhutan. Regular trains and buses ply from
Guwahati to Barpeta Road (136 kms), from
where the forest bungalow at Mathanguri is
approximately 40 kms. The park is known for
its spectacular scenery, and has a variety of
habitats that support diverse fauna, making it
one of the richest of all Indian wildlife areas.

At a glance
Location: Barpeta Entry fee: Rs 20 (Indians);
Nearest Railhead: Barpeta Road Rs 250 (Foreigners)
(20 kms) Camera/ video: Rs 50 (Indians);
Nearest Airport: Guwahati Rs 500 (Foreigners)
...............................................
(176 kms)
.................................................... Major fauna: One-horned
Best time to visit: Nov-April rhinoceros, golden langur, Asiatic
Timings: Sunrise-sunset buffalo
....................................................
Closed from: mid-May-Sept
Where to stay: Forest rest houses
Permit (for Foreigners):
within the park
Restricted Area Permit from the ....................................................
Ministry of Home Affairs, Delhi

56
 Northeast India

The park is contiguous with the Buxa Tiger

Reserve in West Bengal and in 2003, it was
declared part of Chirang-Ripu Elephant
Reserve, which serves as the international
corridor for elephant migration between India
and Bhutan.

Besides the one-horned rhinoceros, one may

spot the hispid hare, golden langur, wild water
bualo and clouded leopard. Considered one
of the worlds rarest simian species, the golden
langur was rst spoDed in Manas in the mid-
20th century.

In winter, hundreds of migratory birds ock

to Manas. Among the woodland birds, watch
out for the great pied hornbill. There is also
a considerable variety of aquatic ora along
river banks. There are dry and moist deciduous
forests away from water courses. Grasslands
cover about 50% of the park. A total of 55
mammals, 36 reptiles and three amphibians
have been recorded in the park. Many animals
are typical of southeast Asian rainforests and
have their westernmost distribution here.
Mammals include golden langur, a recently
discovered endemic restricted to Manas,
capped langur, Hoolock gibbon, clouded
leopard, tiger (second-largest population in BELOW: Golden
India), leopard, golden cat, and shing cat, langur, a common
among others. inhabitant of the park

57
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA
H<>><=95P5? G8NN<= S5=6;G5?J | AFF5:
Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary,
25 kms from Jorhat city, is
dedicated to the conservation of
the hoolock gibbon. It is the only
sanctuary in Asia which is home
to seven primate species. The
hoolock gibbon was characterised
endangered in the IUCN Red
Data List 2000.
Many factors are considered
responsible for the declining
population of the hoolock
gibbon, but primarily the
At a glance
District: Jorhat
Nearest Airport: Jorhat
(22 kms)
Nearest Railhead: Mariani
(5 kms)
...............................................
Timings: Sunrise-sunset
Best time to visit: Oct-Feb
...............................................
Entry fee: Rs 10 (Indians);
Rs 50 (Foreigners)
58
fragmentation and shrinking of
their natural habitat.
The adventure of this sanctuary
is being able to walk through
the densely wooded forest,
discovering the joy of sighting
primates and even the occasional
pugmark, while on foot! Even in
extreme winter, the interiors of
the tropical forest stay steamy
and only the armed forest rangers
who accompany visitors remain
oblivious to the oppressive heat.
LEFT: Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary,
visited for the hollock gibbon (below)
is one of the few national parks in
India that can be explored on foot
Guide fee: Rs 200
Vehicle fee: Rs 100
Camera fee: Rs 50
Video fee: Rs 750
...............................................
Major fauna: Hoolock gibbon,
tiger, leopard, clouded leopard,
snow leopard, Malayan sun bear
....................................................
Where to stay: Government and
private places in Jorhat
N5:E?8 N5;8<=5> P5?@ | AFF5:
Spread over 200 sq km, 35 kms
from Tezpur, is Charduar, the
entry point to Nameri National
Park. It shares its northern
boundary with the Pakke Tiger
Reserve in Arunachal Pradesh.
Its beautiful deciduous forests
and the adjacent river Jia Boreli,
fringe the border of Assam and
Arunachal Pradesh. This is
therefore a popular stop enroute
Bhalukpong in Arunachal
Pradesh, where anglers
congregate to sh for the famous
golden mahseer.
This forest has unique ora,
including gmelina arborea, michelia
champaca, amari, and several types
of orchids like dendrobium and
cymbidium.
Nameri is popular as the
elephant country, though one
may also spot the tiger and
At a glance
Location: Sonitpur
Nearest Railhead: Rangapara
(81 kms)
Nearest Airport: Tezpur (35 kms),
Guwahati (210 kms)
....................................................
Best time to visit: Nov-March
Timings: Sunrise-sunset
...........................................
Entry fee: Rs 20 (Indians);
Rs 250 (Foreigners)
Himalayan black bear. It is
also home to several rare bird
species including the endangered
white-winged wood duck and
a dizzying variety of buDeries
and moths. Here you may spot
the prized atlas moth (A=acus
atlas), the largest moth in the
world with a wingspan of 25-30
cms. The males of the species are
smaller in size than the females.
TOP: Fishing for mahseer in the rivers
in Nameri is a popular activity
ABOVE: Ibis bill
Camera fee: Rs 50 (Indians);
Rs 500 (Foreigners)
Video fee: Rs 100 (Indians);
Rs 500 (Foreigners)
...............................................
Major fauna: Tiger, leopard,
sambar, dhole, pygmy hog
...............................................
Where to stay: Forest rest houses
within the park
59
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA
N5:H5P75 NP | A?G=5675> P?5HEF7
Situated at elevations varying
from 200 m at their lowest to a
loGy 4,570 m in the easternmost
tip of the Himalayas, Namdapha
National Park is the largest
protected area in this region, and
shares an international border
with the Myanmar forest belt. A
jeep ride from the border town of
Miao (150 kms) takes you to this
wilderness paradise.
With an area spanning a massive
1,985 sq km, this is the third
largest national park in India.
Popular among trekkers, these
At a glance
District: Changlang
Nearest Airport: Mohanbari,
Dibrugarh (164 kms)
Nearest Railhead: Margherita,
Assam
...............................................
Best time to visit: Nov-March
Timings: Sunrise-sunset
Closed from: June-Oct
...............................................
Permit (for Foreigners): From
Ministry of Home Affairs, Delhi,
or the Deputy Commissioner,
Changlang District, Miao
sub-division, Arunachal Pradesh
60
thick rainforests are home to
the tiger, leopard, clouded
leopard and the grey ghost
of the Himalayas, the snow
leopard. It is one of the few
national parks where camping
is allowed inside the forest. It
is also a birdwatchers paradise
with more than 400 species, some
found only in this region. The
inaccessibility of the greater area
of the park has contributed to its
pristineness.
BELOW: A traveller gazing at the scenic
splendour of Namdapha
Entry fee: Rs 10 (Indians);
Rs 50 (Foreigners)
Jeep Safari charges:
Guide fee: Rs 200
Vehicle fee: Rs 100
Camera fee: Rs 500
Video fee: Rs 750
.................................................
Major fauna: Tiger, leopard,
clouded leopard, snow leopard,
Malayan sun bear
.................................................
Where to stay: Private
accommodation at Miao
.................................................
 Northeast India
E59>E=EF; WLS | A?G=5675> P?5HEF7
Tucked in the western bend of
Arunachal Pradesh, the Eaglenest
Sanctuary is draped in tropical,
subtropical and temperate
forests. It is believed that the
sanctuary acquired its name from
the Indian Army regiment called
Red Eagle, stationed here in the
1950s to make a road to access
the India-China border.
The eastern half of Eaglenest is
drained by the Tippi Naala (Tippi
river) which joins the Kameng
river at Tippi village on the
BhalukpongBomdila highway.
Several smaller streams including
Buhiri Nadi and Dihung Nadi in
the western half of the area ow
At a glance
District: West Kameng
Nearest Railhead: Bhalukpong
(130 kms)
Nearest Airport: Tezpur (190 kms)
Best time to visit: Nov-May
....................................................
down to join the Brahmaputra
separately.
The park came into prominence
in 2006, when renowned
ornithologist Ramana Athreya
discovered a new species of
babbler, which he named Bugun
Liocichla. Besides this rare bird,
Eaglenest has over 450 species of
avifauna, including cormorant,
heron, black stork, and oriental
white (black-headed) ibis. Bird
Life International has designated
Eaglenest an important Bird
Area, with Blyths tragopan
identied as a vulnerable species.
The sanctuary can be reached
by bus or taxi via the Tawang-
Tezpur road. The unpaved road
that begins from the base of the
sanctuary runs through the Eagle
Nest Pass (2,800 m).
ABOVE: A hornbill (left) is oft seen in
the dense forests of Eaglenest
Major fauna: Red panda, golden
cat, clouded leopard, black stork,
oriental white ibis
....................................................
Where to stay: CTB rest houses
and private accomodation
61
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA
P5@@E T89E? REFE?QE | A?G=5675> P?5HEF7
Located in East Kameng district
of Arunachal Pradesh, the
Pakke Tiger Reserve (also called
Pakhui), is also called the land
of hornbills. It is one of the lesser
known reserves of India and one
of the most well-protected tiger
reserve in Arunachal Pradesh.
Its main entrance is at Seusa
(21 km from Saibari in Assam)
o NH-52.
The tropical forest, nestled
in the foothills of the eastern
Himalayas, is contiguous with
the Nameri Tiger Reserve. Pakke
lies on the border of Assam
and Arunachal Pradesh, at the
junction where the plains of
Assam suddenly rise into the
hills of Arunachal Pradesh .
Of the seven main herbivore
species in the park, the elephant,
barking deer, gaur and sambhar
are commonly spoDed. Recently,
four melanistic golden cats and
At a glance
District: East Kameng
Nearest Railhead: Bhalukpong
Nearest Airport: Tezpur
....................................................
Best time to visit: Nov-May
Timings: Sunrise-sunset
....................................................
Permit: Inner Line Permit from the
office of Dy Resident Commissioner
(www.arunachalipr.gov.in)
62
a Chinese pangolin were seen
here during a camera-trapping
exercise. Camera traps are
remotely-activated cameras used
to spot animals even when no
human is present.
At least 296 bird species have
been recorded here, including the
white-cheeked hill-partridge, ibis
bill, Asian emerald cuckoo, red-
headed trogon, and green pigeon.
The tropical semi-evergreen
forests are scaDered along the
lower plains and foothills, up to
an elevation of 600 m. The upper
part is dominated by trees like
hollock (Terminalia myriocarpa),
kadam (Anthocephalus cadamba),
semal (Bombax ceiba), dhuna
(Canarium strictum), phulchampa
(Elaeocarpus aristatus) and
bonsum (Phoebe goalparensis).
The vegetation is dense, with
a high diversity of lianas
and climbers (over 30 species
recorded so far), with many more
species as yet undiscovered.
At places, evergreen and semi-
evergreen vegetation types
merge. Thick ferns and orchids
form the bulk of the epiphytic
growth; a total of 43 orchid
species and 29 fern species have
been recorded so far, with many
more waiting to be documented.
Entry fee: Rs 50 (Indians);
Rs 250 (Foreigners)
Major fauna: Elephant, barking
deer, gaur, sambar
....................................................
Where to stay: Private
accommodation at Bhalukpong
....................................................
Contact: (03778) 200016
KE8NG> L5:O5< N5;8<=5> P5?@ | M5=8PG?
Located in Manipur, Keibul
Lamjao is the worlds only
oating sanctuary, with rare and inaccessible reserve,
40 sq km of wetland overgrown
with 1.5 m deep oating
vegetation (called phumdi).
These phumdis are created by
collecting organic garbage and
biomass with soil particles that
have been thickened into a solid
form.
Apart from the vegetation and
terrain, a major aDraction is
the Loktak lake, the largest
freshwater lake in India, a
large portion of which falls
within the park.
This national park is one of
the last natural habitats of the
endangered brow-antlered deer
At a glance
District: Bishnupur
Nearest Airport & Railhead:
Dimapur (32 kms)
...............................................
Best time to visit: Oct-March
Timings: Sunrise-sunset
Closed during monsoon
Permit: Inner Line Permit required
...............................................
Entry fee: Rs 10 (Indians);
Rs 50 (Foreigners)
or sangai, considered the most
beautiful deer in the world. This
which is one of the only notied
and protected areas in Manipur,
is threatened today by activities
like the construction of a barrage
by the National Hydro Electricity
Power Corporation.
The park is a prominent birding
site, with both migratory and
resident avifauna species like
the east Himalayan pied
kingsher, black kite, lesser
sky-lark, northern hill myna,
and Burmese pied myna
recorded here.
ABOVE: The enchanting floating
islands of Keibul have to be seen to
be believed
Guide fee: Rs 200
Vehicle fee: Rs 100
Camera fee: Rs 50
Video fee: Rs 750
....................................................
Major fauna: Sangai, hog deer,
wild boar, otter, Indian civet,
jungle cat, flying fox, sambar
....................................................
Where to stay: Private
accommodation at Sendra Island
63
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA
MG?>E= N5;8<=5> P5?@ | M8R<?5:
One of Mizorams best known
parks, the Murlen National Park
lies close to the Indo-Myanmar
border near the Chin Hills.
Consisting of tropical, semi-
evergreen and sub-montane
forests that include species of
bamboo and orchids and 35
species of certied medicinal
plants, the park is home to some
unique ora and fauna. Spot the
endangered hoolock gibbon or
At a glance
District: Champhai
Nearest Airport: Lengpui
(72 kms)
Nearest Railhead: Silchar
(138 kms)
...............................................
Best time to visit: Oct-March
Timings: Sunrise-sunset
Closed from: June-Oct
...............................................
Permit: Overseas visitors must
contact the Ministry of Home
Affairs, Delhi for their permit
64
the white-browed nuthatch y
from branch to branch, and tigers
and leopards licking their paws.
So thick is this forest that, on
a sunny day, only about one
percent of the suns rays actually
penetrates the foliage.
BELOW: A trail weaves through the
thick foliage
Entry fee: Rs 10 (Indians);
Rs 50 (Foreigners)
Guide fee: Rs 200
Vehicle fee: Rs 100
Camera fee: Rs 50
Video fee: Rs 750
...............................................
Major fauna: Tiger, leopard,
sambar, barking deer, malayan
giant squirrel
....................................................
Where to stay: Forest rest houses
within the park
 WEST
Central INDIA
West India
India
G8? N5;8<=5> P5?@ | GGO5?5;
Gir National Park, located on the
southwest fringe of Saurashtra
peninsula, is the last bastion of
the Asiatic lion, and one of the
most signicant protected areas
anywhere in the world.
In the wild, the Asiatic lion or
Panthera leo persica, whose habitat
once ranged from Greece to
central India, is now conned to
1,142 sq km of the Gir protected
area in Gujarat. The sanctuary
is criss-crossed by seven rivers,
namely Hiran, Saraswati,
Datardi, Shingoda, Machhundri,
Godavari and Raval.
At a glance
District: Junagadh
Nearest Airport: Keshod
(82 kms), Ahmedabad (340 kms)
Nearest Railhead: Junagadh
(60 kms)
...............................................
Best time to visit: mid Oct-
mid June
Timings: Sunrise to sunset
Closed from: Mid June-Aug
...............................................
Entry fee: Indians - Mon-Fri
Rs 400, Sat-Sun Rs 500, Rs 600 on
holidays, for vehicles carrying up
to 6 people. Foreigners - $40
It is believed that the Nawab of
Junagadh took the initiative of
saving these lions from extinction
in 1907, and banned hunting,
following a famine in the region.
There were only about a dozen
lions leG then but by the time
the rst census was carried out
in 1936 their number had risen
to 287. Apart from Asiatic lions,
Gir National Park is home to
leopards, sloth bears, jungle cats,
and desert cats. It also has over
300 species of birds.
ABOVE: A lioness and her cubs in
their natural habitat
Safari charges Rs 1,650 (Indians);
Rs 3,250 (Foreigners)
Vehicle fee: Rs 500
Camera fee: Rs 100 (Indians);
Rs 500 (Foreigners)
....................................................
Major fauna: Asiatic lion, sloth
bear, cobra, jungle cat, cobra,
crested serpent eagle
...............................................
Where to stay: Cottages within
the park
...............................................
65
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

VE>5Q5H5? N5;8<=5> P5?@ | GGO5?5;

Velavadar was formerly the aDraction is the bird life. Pelicans,
hunting ground of the Maharaja amingos, white and painted
of Bhavnagar, where he would storks, three kinds of cranes,
hunt for blackbucks. The many birds of prey, and the rare
blackbuck for which the park Stolizcas Bushchat all live here,
was created lives mostly in mostly in the southern part of the
the grasslands on the northern park, where all the wetlands lie.
side. Found only in South Asia,
the blackbuck once lived all
across India, but now the largest
population is here, and few are ABOVE: Blackbuck antelopes crossing
found outside Gujarat. a dirt track
BELOW: Nilgai
The conservation of the blackbuck
here has been a big success,
however, it remains endangered
due to its dependence on such a
limited area to live in, but the local
population has risen from a low of
200 in 1966 to around 3,400 now.

Other animals in the sanctuary

include the nilgai (another Indian
antelope), jackal, wolf, jungle
cat, and fox, but the other main

At a glance
District: Bhavnagar Entry fee: Rs 200 (Indians);
Nearest Railhead: Dhola (50 kms) $20 (Foreigners)
Nearest Airport: Bhavnagar Vehicle fee: Rs 200
....................................................
(42 kms), Ahmedabad (150 kms)
.................................................... Major fauna: Blackbuck, wolf,
Best time to visit: Dec-March Houbara bustard, hyena and
Timings: Sunrise to sunset lesser florican
....................................................
Closed from: June-Oct
................................................... Where to stay: Forest rest houses
within the park

66
 West India
M5?8=E N5;8<=5> P5?@ | GGO5?5;
The Marine National Park, in
the Gulf of Kutch, is situated o
the coast in Jamnagar district
of Gujarat, and comprises an
archipelago of 42 islands. Coral
reefs, mangrove swamp forests,
mudats, sea weeds, and rocky
shoals form the landscape of the
shallow waters of the Marine
National Park.
This is the rst national marine
park in India, notied under
the provisions of the Wildlife
(protection) Act, 1972. It shows
the variety of marine life found
in the islands of Pirotan, Narara,
Ajad, Kalubhar, among others,
and has thriving bird diversity
including crab plovers, amingos,
At a glance
District: Jamnagar
Nearest Airport: Jamnagar
(50 kms); Rajkot (145 kms)
Nearest Airport: Jamnagar
(30 kms)
....................................................
Best time to visit: Nov-Feb
Timings: Sunrise to sunset
....................................................
Entry fee: Rs 30 (Indians);
Rs 250 (Foreigners)
and pelicans. Visit the park
during low tide when there is
much more to catch the eye.
Visit beaches along the coast,
such as Narara, 110 km from
Jamnagar o the Dwarka road,
where one can walk among the
corals at low tide. The sheer
beauty of the sea and endless
marine vegetation takes your
breath away.
Ensure you reach the park early,
so that you get enough time to
explore this hidden gem.
BELOW: Mangroves in Marine
National Park
Camera Fee: Rs 50 (Indians);
Rs 250 (Foreigners)
....................................................
Major fauna: Marine fish, octopus,
starfish, jellyfish, crab plover,
flamingo
....................................................
Where to stay: Private
accommodation available at
Jamnagar
67
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

KG;67 DEFE?; WLS | GGO5?5;

Situated in the surreal salt marshes of the
Great Rann of Kutch, the Kutch Desert
Wildlife Sanctuary surprises one with the
bewitching ora and fauna inhabiting its
seemingly barren landscape. Notied in
February 1986, the sanctuarys northern
boundary forms the international border
between India and Pakistan. It is one of the
largest seasonal saline wetlands with an
average water depth between 0.5-1.5 m.

Every year in winter, thousands of greater

amingos come to nest in the renowned
Flamingo City, situated in the mud ats of
the Rann, about 10 kms from Nir outpost on
Kala Dungar hill, and the water bodies don a
BELOW: Seeing the pink shade with the reection of these majestic
flamingos in Kutch, birds. This is the only regular breeding spot
swooping, gliding in for amingos in India. The winter months also
large numbers is a witness the exuberant, Rann Utsav, organised
sight to remember by the government of Gujarat. A window to
 West India

At a glance
District: Kutch Camera fee: Rs 50
...................................................
Nearest Airport and Railhead:
Major fauna: Wolf, hyena, jackal,
Bhuj (110 kms)
chinkara, wild ass, flamingo
Best time to visit: Oct-March ..................................................
Timings: Sunrise to sunset Where to stay: PWD guest house,
Closed from: July-Sep private accommodation available
..................................................
at Rapar; Tourist department guest
Entry fee: Rs 10 (Indians);
house at Dholavira
Rs 50 (Foreigners)

the local culture, cuisine and craGs, the festival

draws tourists from far.

Not far from the sanctuary, about a 100 kms

from Rapar, is the Harappan site of Dholavira.
While in Kutch, you should also witness the
strange dancing light phenomena, locally
known as Chir BaDi (ghost lights). Kala Dungar,
on Pachchham island at the distance of about
80 km from Bhuj, is the highest point (438 m)
within the sanctuary.
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

W8>H AFF S5=6;G5?J | GGO5?5;

ABOVE: The beauty Established in 1973, Wild Ass Sanctuary in the
of the salt marshes LiDle Rann of Kutch, is one of the last bastions
in Little Rann of of the endangered Indian wild ass (khur).
Kutch, particularly Engage a guide to sight this nimble animal, as
on a moonlit night, is it tends to scoot at the slightest hint of invasion.
surreal
BELOW: Indian fox in The largest wildlife sanctuary in India (4,954
Wild Ass Sanctuary sq km), this has a unique biosphere classied
as a large ecotone - a transitional zone
between marine and terrestrial ecosystems.
During monsoons, the otherwise barren
landscape of Rann gets inundated by water,
sending the fauna scuDling to the elevated
plateaus or islands in the marshes locally

70
 West India

known as bets. For its unique landscape,

bewitching ora and fauna, the sanctuary has
been shortlisted by UNESCO to be included in
its World Heritage list.

There are three entry points to the sanctuary.

While Dhrangadhra and Range Bajana are
best accessed from Ahmedabad, 124 kms and
98 kms away, respectively, Adeshar is closer
to Bhuj (160 kms away). Dhrangadhra is best
connected via public transport, while Range
Bajana is the recommended entry point for avid
bird watchers, as the marshes here play host
to thousands of pelicans, amingos and other
migratory birds in winters. Adeshar is the least
developed in tourist infrastructure. While local
jeeps can also be hired, day safaris are readily BELOW: The lithe and
arranged by resort owners from Dhrandadhra, beautiful wild ass
Zainabad and Dasada. galloping in its habitat

At a glance
District: Kutch Rs 50 (Foreigners)
Distance: 45 kms from Viramgam Jeep Safari: Rs 2,000
Nearest Airport: Ahmedabad Vehicle fee: Rs 20 (Indians);
(130 kms) Rs 100 (Foreigners)
Nearest Railhead: Dhrangadhra Camera fee: Rs 50 (Indians)
....................................................
(16 kms), Ahmedabad (130 kms) Major fauna: Indian wild ass, wolf,
....................................................
Best time to visit: Nov-June desert fox, nilgai, chinkara
...............................................
Timings: Sunrise-sunset Where to stay: Dhrandadhra,
....................................................
Entry fee: Rs 10 (Indians); Zainabad and Dasada

71
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

T5H<N5-A=H75?8 NP |
M575?5F7;?5

OGen referred to as the Jewel of Vidharbha,

Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve, nestled in
the bosom of the Moharli hills in Chandrapur
district of Maharashtra, is the states oldest
and largest national park. A short bus ride
from Chandrapur (32 kms) takes you to this
wilderness paradise.

The name Tadoba-Andhari is derived from

the Tadoba or Taru, the tutelary deity of
the local tribes inhabiting this forest, while
Andhari is the river that meanders through this
park. Legend goes that a village chief called
Taru was killed by a tiger in these forests. A
shrine dedicated to him stands on the banks
of Tadoba Lake, which brims with devotees
especially during a local fair held every year in
December and January.

The park has predominantly southern dry

deciduous forests, with teak being a signicant
TOP:Sambar deer species. A rare plant species called Kach Kujali
ABOVE: Racket-tailed (Mucuu prureans) found here is used to treat
drongo Parkinsons disease.

This park is by far the best in Maharashtra for

tiger viewing. At this reserve, it is not a maDer
of whether you will see a tiger, but rather how

72
 West India

many you will spot. The most recent census, ABOVE: Tadoba is the
carried out in 2012, found that the core area best place to sight
has 43 tigers. There are another 22 tigers in tigers in this western
the buer area, and a further 35 in the area Indian state
surrounding the park.

A biodiversity hotspot, the reserve abounds

in a dizzying variety of avifauna, including
malabar pied hornbill, Indian piDa, Indian
painted francolin, Asian paradise ycatcher,
and golden oriole, among others. A whooping
220 species of buDeries have been recorded
here, including the endangered Danaid
eggy and the great eggy. Look for mugger
crocodiles sun-bathing on the banks of Tadoba
Lake, another highlight of the park. The
other reptiles include the endangered Indian
python, Indian monitor, common cobra and
Russels viper.

At a glance
District: Chandrapur Major fauna: Tiger, leopard, sloth
Nearest Airport: Nagpur bear, hyena, jackal, wild dog
.................................................
(140 kms)
Where to stay: Accommodation
Nearest Railhead: Chandrapur
available within the park
(45 kms) .................................................
.................................................
Contact: Conservator of Forest
Best time to visit: Feb-May
& Field Director, Chandrapur,
Timings: 6 am-11 am, 3 pm-6pm
Ph (07172) 51414
Closed from: July-Sep .................................................
No safari on Tuesdays

73
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA
N5QE95<= N5;8<=5> P5?@ | M575?5F7;?5
Navegaon National Park,
located in Gondia district of
Maharashtra, is set amidst lush
green hills. A popular tourist
destination in the Vidarbha
region, the park is approximately
35 kms from the village of Sakoli,
which lies on the Nagpur-Raipur
national highway. The manmade
Navegaon Lake set within the
park has a watchtower beside it
that aords a birds eye view of
the dense forest.
This national park oers a large
diversity of ora and fauna.
Make sure you book yourself a
safari, plentifully oered by local
guides outside the entrance of
At a glance
District: Gondia
Nearest Airport: Nagpur
(150 kms)
Nearest Railhead: Deulgaon
(2 kms), on Chandrapur-Gondia
railway line
....................................................
Best time to visit: April-May
Timings: Sunrise-sunset
74
the park. Of course, while your
eyes are open the widest to spot
the elusive tiger, do not miss out
on leopards hiding behind trees,
wild dog and sambar.
The sparkling waters of
Navegaon Lake host over 350
species of birds, most of them
migratory, from north Europe,
Siberia, Rann of Kutch, Ladakh
and Tibet. You can also enjoy
a boat ride on the lake and sit
back to enjoy the calmness and
quietude of this luxuriant jungle.
ABOVE: The king of the jungle, cooling
off in a stream in the park
Major fauna: leopard, sloth bear,
gaur, sambar, chital
....................................................
Where to stay: Rest houses or
youth hostel in Gondia. National
Park also offers cottages, a tree
top retreat with two suites. For
reservations, contact MTDC.
....................................................
Contact: Deputy Conservator of
Forests, Gondia, Ph (07182) 226399
 SOUTH INDIA

B5=H8PG? N5;8<=5> P5?@ | K5?=5;5@5

Bandipur National Park, spread maharajas of Mysore. AGer
over 872 sq km of lush green and Bandipur came under the
mesmerisingly beautiful Nilgiri purview of Project Tiger in 1973,
range, is one of south Indias tourists can visit only a particular
prime wilderness areas. This park zone, where they can go on
is a part of the 6,000 sq km Nilgiri guided safaris. The ever elusive
Biosphere Reserve, and is criss- tiger is of course the major
crossed by three fast-owing aDraction here, but to spot one is
perennial rivers, Nugu, Moyar a maDer of pure luck.
and Kabini. The landscape is
doDed with a variety of tree and Situated at the top of Himavad
bamboo vegetation, making it a Gopalaswamy BeDa, the
perfect habitat for its inhabitants, highest hill inside the park, is
and providing a surreal seDing Venugopalaswamy Temple.
for shuDerbugs. It lies in the core area and is
frequented by elephants.
Through the 18th and 19th
centuries, Bandipur was the ABOVE: The Nilgiris form a brilliant
hunting ground of the setting for the park

At a glance
District: Chamarajanagar Vehicle fee: Rs 100
Nearest Airport: Mysore Elephant Safari: Rs 700 per
(70 kms), Bangalore (220 kms) person per hour (Indians)
Nearest Railhead: Nanjungud Camera fee: Rs 500
(55 kms), Mysore (80 kms), Video fee: Rs 750
....................................................
Ooty (50 kms)
.................................................... Major fauna:Elephant, gaur,
Best time to visit: Oct-May tiger, sloth bear, mugger
Timings: 6.30am-11am, ....................................................
Where to stay: Options for both
2.30pm-5.30 pm
.................................................... high-end and budget places are
Entry fee: Rs 10 (Indians); available in and around the park
Rs 50 (Foreigners)
Guide fee: Rs 200

75
N595?7<>E N5;8<=5> P5?@| K5?=5;5@5
Notied in 1988, the
breathtakingly beautiful
Nagarhole National Park, 80 kms
from the heart of Mysore city,
is nestled in the bosom of the
Brahmagiri range. It is watered
by the Kabini, Lakshmana Tirtha
and Nagarhole rivers, besides
several serpentine streams.
The park derives its name
Nagarhole from naga, meaning
snake and hole, which means
stream. Spread over 643 sq km
of lush green landscape, it forms
an important animal corridor
that runs through the
neighbouring Bandipur National
Park, which makes up a part
of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve.
At a glance
District: Kodagu and Mysore
Nearest Railhead and Airport:
Mysore (90 kms), Bangalore
(220 kms)
....................................................
Best time to visit: Oct-May
Timings: 6 am-8 pm; 3 pm-5 pm
Closed from: May-June
....................................................
Entry fee: Rs 25 (Indians);
Rs 200 (Foreigners)
Camera fee: Free
76
A unique feature of these moist
deciduous forests, particularly in
Nagarhole, are the open grassy
swamps called hadlus. Here, the
soil is clay-like, perenially moist
and supports growth of luxuriant
grass all year round.
Its vast forests are home to tigers,
leopards, elephants, gaurs,
barking deer, wild dogs, and
bonnet macaques. The Nagarhole
forests are perhaps one of the
best remaining habitats of the
Asian elephant. Over a thousand
of these mighty beasts are
estimated to range over this tract.
During the monsoons, when
water and forage are plentiful,
Major fauna: Tiger, leopard,
elephant, bonnet macaque, great
egret, warbler, painted stork,
Asian open-billed stork
....................................................
Where to stay: Forest houses are
available inside the park. For more
information, contact Wildlife
Department, Mysore:
Ph: (0821) 2480902
....................................................
the elephants are evenly
distributed. This season is
the best time to spot herds of
elephants wandering in the
forest. A striking ecological
feature of these elephants is their
seasonal migration. The gaurs
too are commonly spoDed here.
Herds of 20-30 gaurs can be seen
grazing as you pass by in a jeep.
Recognised as an Important Bird
Area, the park has over
270 species of birds including
the critically endangered
Oriental white-backed vulture,
vulnerable lesser adjutant,
greater spoDed eagle and the
Nilgiri wood-pigeon.
Most tourists arrive at the park
from Hunsur, 45 kms north of the
park, while the main entrance is
at Veeranahosahalli (52 kms).
You might spot a Malabar
squirrel eating nuts o a pine
tree, herds of chital congregating
near a waterhole or a group of
gaurs looking at you while you
explore the forests in a jeep. You
can always engage a guide to
walk along the approved trails
inside the Park.
ABOVE: A family of chitals
BELOW: The endearing Asiatic
elephant
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

MGHG:5>58 NP | T5:8> N5HG

ABOVE RIGHT: Mudumalai National Park, situated on the

Mudumalai National foothills of the Nilgiri mountains, is along the
Park is situated in the Mysore-Ooty highway. Mudumalai, which
bosom of the Niligiri loosely translates to old hills in Tamil, is one
mountains and is of the oldest protected areas of India and was
spread over 321 sq km notied as a sanctuary in 1940 and a Tiger
of lush greens Reserve in 2009. The park, which is spread
ABOVE LEFT: Malabar over 321 sq km of lush greens, has ve ranges:
giant squirrel Masinagudi, Theppakadu, Nellakota, Kargudi
FACING PAGE BELOW: and Mudumalai.
Elephants are the
pride of the jungle in Administered separately, the Bandipur
Madumalai National Park (Karnataka) and the Mudumalai
FACING PAGE ABOVE: Wildlife Sanctuary (Tamil Nadu) are parts of
Elephant Care Centre a single spectacular ecological continuum that
inside the park also includes Nagarhole (in Karnataka) and
Wayanad (in Kerala). Buses from Ooty (35
kms) run every couple of hours to this park;
jeeps can also be shared or hired.

With over 600 elephants in the park as well as

an elephant camp at Theppakadu, these large
pachyderms are the easiest to spot. The camp
is an articial enclosure where elephants are
reared in captivity and trained to carry logs.
Every day between 8 am-9 am, visitors can feed
these tuskers.

Rides into the parks on specially laid-out dirt

roads called game roads, which usually pass
close to grazing areas, salt licks and water holes
oer excellent views of wildlife. Deer, gaur and
langur can be seen at close range. The Forest
Department at Mudumalai oers hour-long
mini-bus safaris inside the park.

78
 South India

At a glance
District: Nilgiri
Nearest Railhead: Ooty (30 kms)
Nearest Airport: Coimbatore
(115 kms)
....................................................
Best time to visit: Feb-May;
Sep-Oct
Timings: 7 am-9 am; 3 pm-6 pm
...............................................
Entry fee: Rs 150
Jeep Safari (incl entry fee, guide
charges, jeep charges): Rs 200
Elephant safari: Rs 120
Camera/ video: Rs 100
...................................................
Major fauna: Bengal tiger,
leopard, jungle cat, striped hyena,
golden jackal
....................................................
Where to stay: Forest rest houses
within the park. Prior reservation
is mandatory. There are many
private resorts and guest houses
around the park and also in the
quaint village of Masinagudi

About seven kms away is the

secluded village of Masinagudi
with a cluster of hamlets like
Theppakadu, Bokkapuram,
which are doDed with resorts
and homestays nestled in thick
forests. There are night safaris
in open top jeeps arranged by
resorts and guides here. The
night safaris are conducted on the
peripheral roads running through
the adjoining forest and not into
the park. Such night safaris are
sometimes illegal and disturb the
animals of the region.

79
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA
P<8=; C5>8:E?E B8?H S5=6;G5?J | T5:8> N5HG
Notied in 1967 to protect the
endangered black buck, Point
Calimere spreads over 21 sq
km and is also one of the most
popular birding destinations
in south India. Included in
the Ramsar list of Wetlands of
International Importance, some
257 species of birds have been
recorded in the sanctuary, 119
of them waterbirds, including
the vulnerable species spoonbill
sandpiper and grey pelican and
some 30,000 greater and lesser
amingos. The site serves as the
breeding ground or nursery for
many commercially important
species of sh, as well as for
prawns and crabs. Some 35,000
At a glance
District: Nagapattinam
Nearest Airport: Tiruchirapalli
(180 kms)
Nearest Railhead:
Thiruthuraipoondi (50 kms)
...............................................
Best time to visit: Mar-Aug
Timings: 6 am-5 pm
...............................................
Entry fee: Rs 10
Jeep Safari charges: Rs 120
Guide fee: Rs Rs 100
Vehicle fee: Rs 50
80
shermen and agriculturalists
support their families around the
borders of the sanctuary.
Situated at the tip of
NagapaDinam district, Point
Calimeres landscape is
a combination of marshy
grasslands, mudats and tropical
dry evergreen forests.
The sanctuary has had quite
a few successes in wildlife
conservation and the blackbuck
population has gone up from
600 to 1,450 (2005 census).
BELOW: The graceful blackbucks
Camera fee: Rs 100
Video fee: Rs 150
...............................................
Major fauna: Wild boar, chital,
...............................................
spotted deer, bonnet macaque
and black buck
...............................................
Where to stay: Forest rest houses
at Point Calimere.
...............................................
Contact: Wildlife Warden
Point Calimere WLS
Ph: 04365-253092, 08827654734,
08876452347
S8>E=; V5>>EJ NP | KE?5>5
At the very core of the enormous
Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve is
Silent Valley National Park,
which spreads across 237 sq
km, and is one of Indias most
treasured tropical rain forests.
This is the only remaining
undisturbed tropical evergreen
rainforest in India.
Situated in Palakkad district,
the National Park gets its name
because unlike other forests,
there is no buzz or hum of the
omnipresent cicada. In fact, this
green canopy lies almost silent
with just the chirping of birds
every now and then.
The park is locally called
Sairandhrivanam, meaning
Sairandhris forest in Malayalam
aGer Draupadi, of the epic
Mahabharata, who disguised
herself as Sairandhri when
she and her Pandava husbands
were exiled.
Watered by the crystal clear and
perennial Kuntipuzha river,
Silent Valley National Parks
highest peak is Angida, and the
altitude of the park ranges from
658 m to 2,328 m.
There are about 34 species of
mammals here, including the
tiger, leopard, elephant, gaur,
lion-tailed macaque, the Nilgiri
langur and the Nilgiri tahr.
There are over 1,000 species of
owering plants.
ABOVE: The endangered Nilgiri tahr

At a glance
District: Palakkad Video fee: Rs 120
Nearest Airport: Coimbatore ...............................................
(100 kms),Kochi (160 kms) Major fauna: Niligiri langur,
Nearest Railhead: Palakkad Malabar giant squirrel, Nilgiri
(45 kms) tahr, peshwas bat (Myotis
...............................................
peshwa) and hairy-winged bat.
Best time to visit: Nov-Feb
There are nine species of bats,
Timings: Sunrise-sunset ....................................................
rats and mice
.................................................... ...............................................
Entry fee: Rs 50
Where to stay: Forest rest houses
Jeep Safari charges: Rs 1,000
at Mukkali. Accommodation in
Guide fee: Rs 150
suites and rooms will be available
Vehicle fee: Rs 250
only on advance booking
Camera fee: Rs 50

81
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA
PE?8J5? N5;8<=5> P5?@| KE?5>5
Situated in the bosom of the
Cardamom and Pandalam Hills
in the Thekkady district, Periyar
Tiger Reserve and National
Park is spread over 777 sq km of
luxuriant greens and picturesque
lakes. Two of the most important
rivers of Kerala, the serpentine
Periyar and the Pamba water
this park.
With thick forests of tropical
evergreen and semi-evergreen
trees, and over 1,965 owering
plants, Periyar Tiger Reserve
is the perfect retreat for nature
lovers. During spring and
summer seasons, one nds
several hues of orange, crimson,
pink and purple, breaking the
monotony of green.
One of the major aDractions here
is a 26 sq km articial lake at the
very core of the park, where there
are provisions for bamboo raGing
and boating. Make sure you go
82
on an early morning ride and
book upper deck seats for a beDer
view. In addition to elephant
rides, cruises on the lake and
treks to the ruined Mangaladevi
temple - a beautiful old temple
situated in the heart of Thekkady
forest, this sanctuary allows you
to watch and photograph wild
elephants at close quarters.
Although more than 40 tigers
dwell in these forests, the chances
of actually seeing one here are
very low because the elusive
cat wisely prefers the more
quiet interiors, away from the
noise of boats and the chaDer of
humans. It is wonderful to spot
Eurasian oDers all around the
park. Their habit of standing on
hind legs to look out for danger
is an endearing habit and which
is why they are a favourite with
photographers.
BELOW: The scenic Periyar
 South India

Most tourists arrive at the park

from Hunsur, 45 kms north of
the park, while the main entrance
is at Veeranahosahalli (52 kms).
Dont be surprised if you spot
a Malabar squirrel eating nuts
o a pine tree or herds of chital
inside the park congregating
near a waterhole. You can always
engage a guide to walk along the
approved trails. TOP: The imposing gaur
ABOVE: Boat ride in the park

At a glance
District: Idukki and Major fauna: Tiger, elephant,
Pathanamthitta gaur, sambar, wild pig, Indian
Nearest Airport: Madurai giant squirrel, Travancore flying
(150 kms), Kochi (130 kms) squirrel, jungle cat
Nearest Railhead: Kottayam ...............................................
Where to stay: Kerala Tourism
(114 kms)
............................................... Development Corporation runs
Best time to visit: Oct-Feb three charming hotels within the
Timings: Sunrise-sunset park. Arrangements for boat
............................................... trips and elephant rides can also
Entry fee: Rs 300
be made through these hotels.
Jeep Safari charges:
All other hotels and resorts are
Guide fee: Rs 200
located only a short distance
Vehicle fee: Rs 225
from the national park.
Camera fee: Rs 50 ...............................................
Video fee: Rs 120 Contact: KTDC Ph: +91
............................................... 9400008590

83
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

S?8 VE=@5;EF7M5?5 N5;8<=5> P5?@ | AP

Red Sanders tree. Others in the
rare list include the Cycas beddomei,
Shorea talura, Syzygium alternifolium
and the medicinal herb Pimpinella
tirupatiensis.

Entry into the park needs

permission from the Chief Wildlife
Warden. However, there are tourist
zones such as the Eco-Tourism
(CBET) and the Mamandur CBET,
ope which are open to all.

The Tirupati Wildlife Management ABOVE LEFT: The Tirumala hills

Division comprises the Sri carpeted with dense green in
Venkateswara National Park and Sri Venkateswara National Park
the Sri Venkateswara Sanctuary BELOW: Wild boar spotted in the park
which together cover about 697 sq
km across ChiDoor and Cuddapah
districts in Andhra Pradesh. These
are dry deciduous forests with some
interesting fauna: leopard, bear,
mouse deer, slender loris, Indian
golden gecko, among others.

The park is known for its many

waterfalls including the Talakona,
Gundalakona and Gunjana. The
diversity of ora is even more
impressivethere are some 1,500
species of plants, of which many
are rare and at least 24 are endemic.
The most famous of these is the

At a glance
District: Cuddapah and Chittor Video Fee: Rs 350
....................................................
Nearest Railhead: Tirupati
Major fauna: Tiger, elephant,
(10 kms)
chital, barking deer, sambar
Nearest Airport: Tirupati ....................................................
(10 kms) Where to stay: Forest rest
....................................................
houses within the Park and
Best time to visit: Oct-May
in the many hotels and guest
Timings: Sunrise-sunset
.................................................... houses in the famous temple
Entry fee: Rs 200 town. or prefer to stay in any of
Vehicle Fee: Rs 225 the luxury hotels in Tirupati City.
Camera Fee: Rs 150

84
 ANDAMAN & Central
NICOBAR India ISLANDS
M575;:5 G5=H78 M5?8=E NP |
A=H5:5= C N86<N5? IF>5=HF
Established in 1983, the Mahatma
Gandhi Marine National Park, is
located about 20 kms from Port
Blair and comprises about 12
islands. It is a treasure house of
a dizzying variety of marine life
and corals.
The islands house a variety
of fauna, ranging from the
Andaman wild pig and spoDed
deer to civet and bat. Reptiles
such as the king cobra, krait,
pit viper and day gecko wander
around the vast forest stretches.
Interestingly, these islands
At a glance
District: South Andaman
Nearest Airport: Port Blair
(20 kms)
...............................................
Best time to visit: Dec-April
Timings: 5.30 am-6.30 pm
...............................................
Permit: The Forest Department
permit costs Rs 50 per person
and is available at the counter on
Wandoor jetty. Normally only
150 permits are issued each day
on first-come first-serve basis
are the nesting grounds for
leatherback turtles (the largest
turtle species in the world)
during November and February.
The hawksbill sea turtle, and
olive ridleys live in the shallow
coastal waters.
The park is an ornithologists
paradise, with a variety of birds
including the roseate tern, the
black-naped tern are found here.
ABOVE: The pristine blue waters of the
national park
Boat ride to Red Skin Island:
Rs 300
Camera Fee: Rs 25
....................................................
Major fauna: Andaman wild
pig, spotted deer, civet, bats,
leatherback turtle
....................................................
Where to stay: Accommodation
available at Port Blair
....................................................
85
 WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

C5:PNE>> B5J NP | A=H5:5= C N86<N5? IF>5=HF

Situated in the Great Nicobar
Island, the largest of the Nicobar
group of islands, the
426 sq km Campbell Bay
National Park is located 480 kms
south of Port Blair. Incidentally,
it is just 190 kms north of the
Indonesian island, Sumatra in
the eastern Indian Ocean.

Campbell Bay National Park,

together with Galathea National
Park, is part of the Great Nicobar
Biosphere Reserve. Declared a
national park in 1992, this park
is famous for its orchids and
owering plants. The parks
ora includes tropical evergreen
forests, tree ferns and mangroves
and fauna includes crab-eating
macaque, giant robber crab,
megapode, and Nicobar pigeon.
The best time to visit the park is
during spring when the entire
island is a burst of vibrant
colours, a breathtaking sight for
anyone! The several watchtowers
in the park are a major aDraction
for the avid bird watchers.
ABOVE: Nicobar pigeon
BELOW: An aerial view of the island

At a glance
District: Nicobar
Distance: Port Blair (250 kms)
Nearest Airport: Port Blair.
Pawan Hans helicopters operates
flights to Campbell Bay from Port
Blair on Tuesday, Thursday and
Saturday. Ferry services are also
available.
....................................................
Open all year round
Best time to visit: March-Oct
Permit: A landing fee to be taken
from the Deputy Commisioners
Office, Ph 03192 233089
...............................................
Major fauna: Crab-eating
macaque, megapode, giant
robber crab and Nicobar pigeon.
....................................................
Where to stay: Hotles, lodges,
camping sites available,
particularly at Havelock Island

86
 PRACTICAL INFORMATION Central India

WHEN TO COME BEFORE COMING TO INDIA

Most of the national parks and There are a few things you need
sanctuaries in India are closed to take care of before travelling
during the monsoon months of June to India.
to September due to bad roads
or flooded paths. The parks in the Passport
Himalayan region are rendered
Foreign travellers to India must
inaccessible in the winter months
always carry their valid passport
with a thick snow cover. It is best
with them.
to check with the respective State
Forest departments and Tourism If your passport is lost or stolen,
departments on their websites for the you should immediately contact the
latest information regarding opening embassy or consulate of your country
and closing dates before planning of residence.
your trip.
FRRO (Foreigners Regional
Weather-wise, the ideal time to visit
Registration Offices) are open on
the parks in most of India, except
weekdays, 9.30 am-1.30 pm and
those in the higher Himalayan region,
2 pm-4 pm.
would be November to March, when
the days are pleasant and cool. Having
said this, the best time to actually spot
wildlife is in the summer months of late FRRO
March to June when, because of the
New Delhi
extreme heat, tigers and other animals
East Block 8, Level-II
come out in search of water to the few
Sector-1, R K Puram
waterholes that have not dried. Ph (011) 26711443/384
To sight avifauna, visit in winters when
Kolkata
migratory birds from the northern
237 Acharya Jagadish Chandra
climes come in huge numbers. Bose Road
Ph (033) 22837034
WHAT TO WEAR Mumbai
Annexe-II, Crawford Market
For the traveller the general thumb
(near Police Commissioners Office)
rule would be to wear sensible and Ph (022) 22621169/0046
comfortable clothes that do not
attract unnecessary attention. Chennai
Shastri Bhawan
In case you are travelling during the 26 Haddows Road
hot Indian summer, loose cotton Ph (033) 22837034
clothes that will protect you from the
Bangalore
heat and keep you cool are ideal.
TTMC A Block, 5th Floor
Preferably, wear full-sleeved clothes
BMTC Bus Stand Building
and a comfortable, closed footwear KH Road, Shanthinagar
to protect yourself against insects Ph (080) 22218195-96
and bugs. Avoid wearing very bright
colours that may stand out and distract
animals. Be sure to keep a headcover
Visa
and wear sunscreen in the severe
heat. For winters, a warm sweater A tourist visa is normally given for six
and a jacket will suffice. months. The 15-day single/double entry
visa is issued only to bonafide transit
passengers. Tourist groups of not less
than four people travelling under the
auspices of a recognised travel agency
may be considered for a collective
tourist visa.

The tourist visa is valid for 180 days

from the date of its issue and not from
the date of entry into India, unless
specified otherwise.

87
 PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Money Time Zone

The Indian currency is called Indian Standard Time (IST) is
the Rupee (`). It is available in 5 hours ahead of Greenwich
denominations of 1000, 500, 100, 50, Mean Time and 10 hours ahead
20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. One rupee equals of US Eastern Standard Time.
100 paise. Coins in common use are IST is 4 hours behind Australian
those of ` 5, ` 2, ` 1. Eastern Standard Time,
3 hours behind Japanese
While the 50 and 25 paise coins have
Standard Time and 1 hours
become almost redundant in bigger
behind Thai Standard Time.
cities, they might still be in circulation
Despite its vast geographical
in smaller towns.
territory, India has just one time
Credit cards are commonplace in zone.
cities but it is advisable to carry
enough cash when visiting small
towns, where ATMs and card-swiping
machines are sometimes hard to
come by.

COMMUNICATIONS
Post Offices
The main post offices in large towns
provide a large range of facilities like
telegraph, fax and a courier service
which operates under the name EMS
Speed Post.
If you need to dispatch a letter or
document urgently, it is advisable to
send it by the government-run
Speed Post.
Parcels by mail should not exceed
35 kgs. Books, documents, papers and
printed material can be sent by Book
Post which costs less.
All Post Offices are open from 10 am to
5.30 pm Monday to Saturday.
Email
All metros and major cities have
numerous cyber cafes that charge a
nominal fee for internet access.
DRIVING LICENCE
A valid International Driving Licence is
necessary if you wish to drive a car or
a motorcycle in India and it is advisable
to get one before coming. Automobile
Association of Upper India (AAUI), C-8
Qutb Institutional Area (Ph 26965397),
extends help to AA members from all
countries.
If you do not have an International
Driving Licence and wish to drive in
India, you can get a Temporary Driving
Licence, provided you are carrying a
valid driving licence of your country. You
may still be required to give a test.

Telephone
The pre-paid SIM card, offered by various
local telecom service providers, is the
best option for use of international mobile
phones in India. Note that registration is
required before travel. Valid photo identity,
usually the passport, is required to get a
local sim card.

ISD (international), STD (domestic long

distance), and local telephone booths
are available all over India. The rates
for international calls are fixed, but calls
within the country are charged on the
basis of a pulse rate.

88
 PRACTICAL INFORMATION Central India
HEALTH
Your health during your travel in India
depends on three things: precautions
taken before arrival, day-to-day care,
and efficiency in tackling emergencies.
No particular vaccination is required
for coming to India. However, visitors
from designated countries in Africa,
South America and from Papua New
Guinea are required to bring valid Yellow
Fever vaccination certificates, even if
they are on transit.
Precautionary medication is the best bet
against common ailments like diarrhoea,
dysentery and malaria. Mosquito-borne
diseases, like malaria, are common
in India, particularly during the rainy
season. Before visiting the parks,
consult your doctor for precautionary
anti-malarial medication and use
mosquito repellents regularly. If you are
not already vaccinated against Hepatitis
B, get it done before travelling.
For healthy travel, take care of what you
eat and drink. Water could be suspect;
therefore, it is best to carry your own
mineral water.
There are government hospitals and
dispensaries in all major cities.
Eco-tourism
Eco-tourism, as defined by the
World Trade Organisation, involves
travelling to relatively undisturbed
areas with natural wealth with
the specific objective of studying,
admiring and enjoying the scenic
beauty, flora, fauna and indigenous
traditions of these places. Not only
does it not disturb the environment,
requiring lesser infrastructure
than other kinds of tourism, it also
encourages the participation of
the local community leading to the
economic development of the area.
ELECTRICITY
Electricity supply is not quite reliable
in small towns in India. Travellers are
advised to carry torches (with extra
batteries).
The electric current in India is 220-240
volts AC. The sockets here are of the
three-round-pin variety, similar to the
ones found in Europe or America, so
three-pin electronic gadgets bought
abroad can be used here.
Tips (baksheesh)
In India, there is no rule which
compels you to tip anyone for any
service rendered. Courtesy demands
that you tip a waiter in a restaurant
or hotel. The general norm is to pay
atleast 10% of the billed amount. Taxi/
auto rickshaw drivers, government
officials or private service providers
are not expected to be tipped.
Emergency
In case of emergency, have your
guide/ safari conductor contact the
forest wardens, officials in the park.
Else, police assistance booths are
located at the airports, railway
stations and near major bus stops
throughout the country.
Police 100
Fire 101
Ambulance 102
Lost Articles
In case of loss or theft, especially
of vital documents like passports,
an FIR (First Information Report)
must be filed at the nearest police
station. In case of loss of documents,
the embassy or high commission
concerned must immediately be
informed.
89
90
91
 LIST OF NATIONAL PARKS IN INDIA

NAME OF THE PARK STATE

Anamudi Shola National Park Kerala
Anshi National Park Karnataka
Balphakram National Park Meghalaya
Bandhavgarh National Park Madhya Pradesh
Bandipur National Park Karnataka
BannerghaDa National Park Karnataka
Betla National Park Jharkhand
Bhagwan Mahaveer National Park Goa
Bhitarkanika National Park Odisha
Buxa National Park and Tiger Reserve West Bengal
Campbell Bay National Park Andaman & Nicobar Islands
Chandoli National Park Maharashtra
Clouded Leopard National Park Tripura
CorbeD National Park UDarakhand
Dachigam National Park Jammu and Kashmir
Darrah National Park Rajasthan
Desert National Park Rajasthan
Dibru-Saikhowa National Park Assam
Dudhwa National Park UDar Pradesh
Eravikulam National Park Kerala
Fossil National Park Madhya Pradesh
Galathea Bay National Park Andaman & Nicobar Islands
Gangotri National Park UDarakhand
Gir National Park Gujarat
Gorumara National Park West Bengal
Govind National Park UDarakhand
Great Himalayan National Park Himachal Pradesh
Gugamal National Park Maharashtra
Guindy National Park Tamil Nadu
Gulf of Mannar National Park Tamil Nadu
Guru Ghasi Das National Park ChhaDisgarh
Hemis National Park Jammu and Kashmir
Inderkilla National Park Himachal Pradesh
Indira Gandhi (Annamalai) National Park Tamil Nadu
Indravati National Park ChhaDisgarh
Kalesar National Park Haryana
Kanha National Park Madhya Pradesh
Kasu Brahmananda Reddy National Park Andhra Pradesh
Kangerghati National Park ChhaD isgarh
Kaziranga National Park Assam
Keibul Lamjao National Park Manipur
Keoladeo Ghana National Park Rajasthan
Khangchendzonga National Park Sikkim
Khirganga National Park Himachal Pradesh
Kishtwar National Park Jammu and Kashmir
Kudremukh National Park Karnataka
Madhav National Park Madhya Pradesh
Mahatma Gandhi Marine NP Andaman & Nicobar Islands
Mahaveer Harina Vanasthali National Park Andhra Pradesh
Manas National Park Assam

92
 LIST OF NATIONAL PARKS IN INDIA Central India

NAME OF THE PARK STATE

MathikeDan Shola National Park Kerala
Marine National Park Gujarat
Middle BuDon Island National Park Andaman & Nicobar Islands
Mouling National Park Arunachal Pradesh
Mount HarrieD National Park Andaman & Nicobar Islands
Mrugavani National Park Andhra Pradesh
Mudumalai National Park Tamil Nadu
Mukurthi National Park Tamil Nadu
Murlen National Park Mizoram
Nagarhole National Park Karnataka
Namdapha National Park Arunachal Pradesh
Nameri National Park Assam
Nanda Devi National Park UDarakhand
Navegaon National Park Maharashtra
Neora Valley National Park West Bengal
Nokrek National Park Meghalaya
North BuDon Island National Park Andaman & Nicobar Islands
Ntangki National Park Nagaland
Pambadum Shola National Park Kerala
Panna National Park Madhya Pradesh
Papikonda National Park Andhra Pradesh
Pench National Park Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra
Periyar National Park Kerala
Phwangpui National Park Mizoram
Pin Valley National Park Himachal Pradesh
Rajaji National Park UDarakhand
Rajbari National Park Tripura
Rajiv Gandhi National Park Andhra Pradesh
Rajiv Gandhi Orang National Park Assam
Rani Jhansi Marine National Park Andaman & Nicobar Islands
Ranthambore National Park Rajasthan
Saddle Peak National Park Andaman & Nicobar Islands
Salim Ali National Park Jammu and Kashmir
Sanjay National Park Madhya Pradesh
Sanjay Gandhi National Park Maharashtra
Sariska National Park Rajasthan
Satpura National Park Madhya Pradesh
Silent Valley National Park Kerala
Simbalbara National Park Himachal Pradesh
Simlipal National Park Odisha
Singalila National Park West Bengal
South BuDon Island National Park Andaman & Nicobar Islands
Sri Venkateswara National Park Andhra Pradesh
Sultanpur National Park Haryana
Sunderban National Park West Bengal
Tadoba-Andhari National Park Maharashtra
Valley of Flowers National Park UDarakhand
Valmiki National Park Bihar
Vansda National Park Gujarat
Van Vihar National Park Madhya Pradesh
Velavadar National Park Gujarat

Source: h= p://moef.nic.in/downloads/public-information/protected-area-network.pdf

93
94
95
 Note
In this book the national parks and wildlife sanctuaries have
been listed state-wise. Each state government has its own
Tourism Department as well as Forest Department, each with
their own websites. Ministry of Tourism, Government of India
has its own website: www.tourism.gov.in and www.incredible
india.org. You can look them up for any details.
Great care has been taken in the compilation, updation
and validation of information at the time of going to press.
However, please note that details like telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices of tickets, safari charges and travel
information may change without notice.

Photographs:
Amit Mishra p 27; Ananda Banerjee pp 37-38, 57, 60;
Anupriya Roy pp 15, 58 leG; A K Raha p 50;
Arjun Haarith p 80; Bilal Bahadur p 17;
BodhisaD va Sen Roy pp 16, 32-33, 44; Chambal Safari Lodge p 28;
J M Garg p 46; Joydip & Suchandra Kundu pp 4, 8A, 9, 10-11B, 12-13B, 19,
22-23B, 23A, 24-25, 58 right, 76-77; Kalyan Varma p 61A;
Kamalendu Bhadra p 49; Mahadeo Sen p 43;
Mallar Sarkar pp 35, 39, 41, 48; Manoj Chhabra p 26; Mike Vickers p 36;
N C Dhingra pp 6-7; Rituraj Konwar pp 54-56;
Soumya Mahapatra p 65, 67; Swati Mitra pp 11A, 14, 30-31, 51, 64
The photographs on the following pages have been used with kind
permission of Kerala Tourism pp 81, 82, 83A;
Madhya Pradesh Tourism p 40; Ministry of Tourism p 18

No part of this publication may be reproduced,

stored in a retrieval system, or transmiDed in any form or by any
means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise,
without the prior permission of the copyright owner.

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