T
NO.
From brilliant mash-ups to simple classics,
Beef
the 15 best burgers in Sarasota/Manatee.
Chiefs
The burger. Does any other dish better embody the greater
than the sum of its parts principle? Sure, that grilled ground
beef is OK on its own, but its nothing earthshaking. Ditto for
the cheese, the lettuce, the tomato, the onion, the bun and the
condiments.
So what animates our burger lust? Balance. Great burgers pos-
sess a meaty heft, with the primal appeal of beef cooked over
fire, but theyre also layered and complex, with textural coun-
terpoints that come from the lettuce and onions and a sweet
note sung by the ripe tomato. A toasted bun adds nuttiness. A
smear of mayo rounds it all out.
Theres magic in that mix, a whirl of sensations powerful enough
to jolt you back to Proustian memories. That first date, when
you nuzzled noses over cheap, fresh-from-the-flattop patties
at the local dive. That backyard barbecue, when you manned
the grill and clinked beer necks while the kids zoomed down
the Slip n Slide. That camping trip, when the meat was a little
burnt, a little dry, but could not have tasted better.
This listour first ever ranking of the regions greatest ham-
burgersis a tribute to an American icon.
PLUS chefs must-have condiments, a plant-based
powerhouse, great burger loreand more.
By Cooper Levey-Baker
PHOTOGRAPHY BY EVERETT DENNISON AND CHAD SPENCER
36 JULY 2017 | SARASOTA MAGAZINE
1
MY UNCLES BURGER, $16
INDIGENOUS
INDIGENOUSSARASOTA.COM
(941) 706-4740
Chef Steve Phelps revered downtown
Sarasota fine dining establishment
has little in common with Swensons,
an Akron, Ohio, drive-in, except for this
burger. As a youngster in the Cleveland
restaurant industry, Phelps used to drive
to Akron to down Swensons patties, but
he never could figure out what made
them so special. Until, that is, one night
when Phelps uncle got drunk with a
Swensons insider and convinced him to
spill the beans:
Swensons cuts its ground beef with
frozen butter, a common trick, and it also
adds honey. Voil!
Phelps iteration of the Swensons burger
swaps out the honey for maple syrup
and drops in beef from humanely raised
Niman Ranch cattle. A double patty is
laced with cheddar cheese, a barbecue-
aioli blend and a pepper-forward bacon
jam. On the side sits a pile of leftover
bits of carrots and onions and the like,
which in other restaurants would go in
the rubbish bin, but are here transformed
into pickled condiment. (Word to the
wise: Dont even think about asking for
substitutions. This burger is as thought-
through as everything else on Phelps
menu, and his small kitchen cant handle
variations.)
The result: a studly burger that nods to
Phelps history in northeast Ohio as well
as his ethical commitments. Its high.
Its low. Its tasty as hell. Its Sarasotas
best burger.
SARASOTA MAGAZINE | JULY 2017 37
 4
NO.
Caramelized Onion and Brie Burger, $10.50
Shakespeares English Pub
shakespearespubsarasota.com, (941) 364-5938

A legend. This burger has been helping locals soak up

the beer selection at Shakespeares for more than a de-
cade. A nest of slowly cooked-down onions flavored with
balsamic vinegar rests atop the meat and below an X of
brie slices, and the whole thing is slid into a rosemary-
scented bun and accented with lettuce, tomato and onion.
The patties here are thick, allowing the cooks to develop
thick, black skins on the outside while keeping the interi-
ors bloody. This beauty will never go out of style.
CONTINUED ON PAGE 42

NO. 2
STEAKHOUSE BURGER, $12
ALPINE STEAKHOUSE
alpinesteak.com, (941) 922-3797

Bypass the traditional bacon cheeseburger in favor of

one stacked with pork jowl at Alpine Steakhouse, which
gilds the lily with a couple of onion rings. The thick
strips of jowl, what the Italians call guanciale, deliver
intense smokiness, and the rich beef is ground in-house
and cooked to the exact temperature you request. This
bad boy isnt always listed on the menu, but the staff
promises you can order it anytime.

3
NO.

Made Burger , $15

MADE
maderestaurant.com, (941) 953-2900

No one would accuse Made chef Mark Woodruff of holding back.

His dishes are decadent and bold, with a pileup of ingredients that
walks the line between just enough and way too much. That goes for
his signature burger, which includes (deep breath) high-end Niman
Ranch beef, a tangle of barbacoa-style meat, sauted red peppers
and onions, a tart fried green tomato, cheese and lettuce, with a ra-
mekin of the restaurants addictive homemade smoked ketchup on
the side. Youll never need to eat again.

38 JULY 2017 | SARASOTA MAGAZINE SARASOTA MAGAZINE | JULY 2017 39

 SECRETS COUNCILS BRADENTON RECREATION was never supposed to be a burger restaurant. It was a pool
hall, a midday, after-work, anytime hangout for downtown businessmen and the attorneys and cops
OF THE who frequented the courthouse across the way. But from the day the pool hall opened in 1926, before
it was even owned by the man, Council Smith, who gave it its name, the grill was therea 4-foot by
FLATTOP 2-foot black metal Garland, with a flattop flanked by four burners and drawers below for toasting buns.
Its still there today, in the corner near the front. The grill
Owners and cooks has survived ownership changes and generations of cus-
tomers. And although its warped from welding fix-ups and
MARSHA TOLER

come and go. The grill scarred from the regular whack-whack-whack of the spatula,

.
at Councils Bradenton it requires little aside from a daily scrubbing and a monthly
Recreation remains. breakdown, cleanup and rebuild.
Thats our golden goose, says Marsha Toler, a server at
the restaurant for close to two decades. Its definitely well
seasoned.
Grilled on that seasoned flattop, a Councils burger needs
nothing fancy. A good piece of meat. Tomato and lettuce. A Wonder Bread bun. Call out your order,
and an obliging cooktrained in a lineage that snakes from Toler to previous owner Lawton Smith to
Smiths father, Counciltosses a patty on the grills inky surface and presses down hard. It sputters
and squirts as the outside chars. Sandwiched between napkins and speared with a toothpick, a Coun-
cils burger is crispy but juicy, with a sweet rush from the tomato and pickles.
Installed in a year when America had just 48 states, the grill has lasted through 15 presidencies. It
came through a depression and a world war. It was cooking burgers when the Beatles played Ed Sul-
livan, when Richard Nixon was impeached, when the Berlin Wall fell. Odds are it will still be blackening
meat and crisping up buns long after the rest of us are gone.

40 JULY 2017 | SARASOTA MAGAZINE SARASOTA MAGAZINE | JULY 2017 41

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 39
5
NO.
FRESH GROUND BURGER, $10-$13
STATE STREET EATING HOUSE + COCKTAILS
STATESTREETSRQ.COM, (941) 951-1533
Rather than serving straight-from-the-jar pickles and raw
NO.
onions, State Street slices cucumbers and red onions into
thin ribbons and pickles them in-house before throwing
them on top of the meat and cheese. The pickling adds
moisture and a hint of sweetness, contrasting with the
richness of the fat and protein below. Another hit: the bun.
Most times, the sesame seeds on a bun are little more than
decoration. Here, that shower of seeds is powerful enough
to add their flavor to the overall package.
42 JULY 2017 | SARASOTA MAGAZINE
No. 6
Wild Mushroom Wagyu Cheeseburger, $18
THE CAPITAL GRILLE
thecapitalgrille.com, (94 1) 256-3647
Of all the burgers on the list, this one might be the
most exactly cooked. The trick: a patty as tall as an
NBA player, which allows the exterior to crisp up
while the inside remains juicy and red. It would be
perfect even without the slice of Havarti and the clus-
ter of mushrooms (sauted until soft, but still possess-
ing some chew), but those elements add some dazzle,
as does a drizzle of 15-year-old balsamic vinegar. At
$18, this is the most expensive burger we rated. And
its worth every penny.
7
Mighty Murf Burger , $ 16 . 9 5
MICHAELS ON EAST
bestfood.com, (941) 366-0007
Some complicated burger creations fall apart under the
weight of their pretensions. Not so this adventurous in-
vention. The patty is a mix of bison, chorizo and mush-
rooms, a blend that foregrounds the spice of the pork sau-
sage and prevents the lean bison meat from drying out.
This thing is so juicy its a double-napkin dish. The inno-
vative blend keeps throwing out surprises as you eat your
way through it. An experiment that pays off.
CONTINUED ON PAGE 45
The most memorable hamburger I ever had
wasnt called a hamburger. It was called chopped
steak, which, Ive since learned, is what upscale steak
houses call a plate of ground beef. Hamburger
sounds too humble. Chopped steak, on the other
hand, sounds like something youd pay $25 for.
I tucked into a mountain of glistening, medium-
rare chopped steak back in 1991 at Gallaghers Steak was done for the day when he went into his trailer and
House on West 52nd Street in New York City. The
meat was so tender, so delicious, it would have been a
culinary crime to douse it with mustard or ketchup. A
simple side salad of beefsteak tomatoes and raw onion
was the ideal accompaniment.
As good as my lunch was that day, I remember it
mainly because of my companion.
I was eating with George C. Scott. He was starring
in a revival of Paul Osbornes 1938 play On Borrowed
Time at Circle-in-the-Square across the street. Id been
assigned to interview him for TheaterWeek magazine,
and I was nervous as hell. Id read up on Scott and
discovered that, when provoked, he had a tendency to
punch people.
Wear your crash helmet, his press agent told me,
chuckling. He warned me against bringing up two sub-
jectsthe Oscars, which Scott turned down twice (The
Hustler in 1961, Patton in 1971), and Ava Gardner,
whose recently published memoir contained a harrow-
ing description of Scott terrorizing her after she broke
off an affair they had on the set of The Bible.
Scott chose Gallaghers, in business since 1927,
because it had been one of his haunts in the 60s and
70s. He could have a drink (well, drinks) there with an
eclectic mix of celebsJoe DiMaggio, Arthur Miller,
Howard Cosell and Frank Gifford were regulars.
I arrived early and found Scott already there, en-
sconced in a corner table and bantering with the wait-
ers. He wore a safari jacket and a raffish tweed hat. He
was large but not intimidating. His bushy white beard
and red bulbous nose made him look like Santa Claus.
He greeted me warmly, and I thought, Maybe I wont
need that crash helmet, after all.
MY BURGER WITH
GEORGE C. SCOTT
BY MICHAEL RIEDEL
Glancing at the menu, he said, A light lunch today, I
think. Then he ordered a chop that was twice the size
of the plate. He told me hed cut back on the drinking,
limiting himself to two small glasses of beer at lunch.
His drinking was legendary. Many years later, the
director Mike Nichols told me Scott kept a stash of
booze in his trailer on movie sets. You knew George
it started rocking, Nichols said.
But the angry, pugilistic George C. Scott of the
gossip columns was nowhere to be found that day at
Gallaghers.
I think youve mellowed, I ventured.
He laughed and leaned toward my tape recorder:
Im going to say this just once. I have always been
mellowfrom
Scott chose Gallaghers, the very begin-
in business since 1927, ning. Mellow
because he could have a as a cello. They
drink (well, drinks) there. just never knew
it. The Franken-
stein monster
they createdI had nothing to do with it. I fell into
their coils or their toils, whatever the hell it ismoils,
and I woke up one day and realized that I was some
sort of gargoyle. It took me 35 years to live it down.
We had a jolly lunch and by the end I was so relaxed,
I dared to bring up the subject of awards. (I steered
clear of Ava Gardner, however.) If he got a Tony nomi-
nation would he accept it? I asked.
A hint of menace flashed in his eyes, and I got ready
to dive under the table. But then he put a hand on my
shoulder, smiled and said, Well see, my boy, well see.
Im a regular at Gallaghers now myself. Its changed
owners over the years, but the tender, delicious
chopped steak is still on the menu. Whenever I order
it, I think of George C. Scott, a volcanic actor who hap-
pened to be, the day I met him, mellow as a cello.
Contributing editor Michael Riedel is theater columnist
for the New York Post and a frequent Sarasota visitor.
SARASOTA MAGAZINE | JULY 2017 43

BURGER
BREAKDOWN
Deconstructing
Shakespeares
caramelized onion
and brie burger.
Shakespeares English Pub
was an instant hit 13 years
ago thanks to a Cheers-
like atmosphere cultivated
by co-owners Richard and
Marilyn Neal, as well as its
powerhouse hamburgers.
Ever since its opening, one
patty has reigned supreme:
the caramelized onion and brie
burger. Created by Marilyn,
the burger is known as the
pubs must-eat meal.
Two creamy, gooey slabs of brie melt
down the sides of the burger and puddle
on your plate, where they become the
perfect impromptu fondue for your fries.
Glossy onions gain
depth and golden
color as they slow-
cook in a vat of sweet
balsamic vinegar, cre-
ating a sultry, three-
dimensional, jam-like
texture that embel-
lishes every bite.
44 JULY 2017 | SARASOTA MAGAZINE
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 42
8
NO.
Cheeseburger , $7.95
THE HOB NOB
hobnobdrivein.com, (941) 955-5001
The burger bonanza Nothing creative herejust simple drive-in nostalgia, served
starts with a secretly lightning-quick in a red plastic basket lined with greasy wax
sourced rosemary- paper. The Hob Nobs smallish patties are thin, topped with
dotted bun, an upgrade gooey American cheese, rounds of crisp white onion, slabs
from the typical of lettuce and a slice of tomato thats actually red, all of it en-
ho-hum bun. Its a firm closed in a crisped bun daubed with mayo. It doesnt sound
vessel bursting with
like anything special, but the combination is off the charts,
subtle piney flavor.
delivering a rush that will have you recalling sock hops you
never attended and jalopy rides you never went on.
No. 9
Conflicted Burger , $7.97
Simple standard fixings. BURGERFI
Lettuce. Tomato. Raw burgerfi.com, (941) 800-1800
onion. Or more. Its
memorable just the Five Guys used to hold the title for best quick-
way it comes out of the fired chain burger in Sarasota, but based on
kitchen, Marilyn says. a recent head-to-head, BurgerFi gets the nod
But if they want to add these days. Its the same basic setup: default
hot sauce, let them add double patties, quickly griddled and packed
hot sauce! with whatever toppings you like. What sets it
apart are fun change-ups like the Conflicted
Burger, which combines a meat patty with a
vegetarian one. The quinoa-based plant patty
is good enough to eat on its own, but its veg-
etal notes are a nice addition to the juice and
crispiness of its beefy companion. No need to
feel guilty for making your order a double.
10
NO.
An eight-ounce patty DAILY EATS BURGER, $9
of ground Angus DAILY EATS
beef is dusted with ilovedailyeats.com, (941) 208-3880
a classified blacken-
ing seasoning, which
Daily Eats brings a DIY philosophy to burger con-
creates a seared and
struction, offering a basic variety for $9 and allowing
binding layer. Then
you to upgrade it as you like, with traditional add-ons
the meat is cooked to
like caramelized onions (yum) and bacon (ditto) and
order, from bloody to
somewhat outr options like avocado. The onions are
burnt to a crisp.
sticky and sweet and the bacon meaty and formidable.
EMMA BURKE
And the entire combo, served inside an old-school foil
wrapper, is enchanting, even if the temperature con-
trol is off. A satisfying halfway point between a fast
food burger and a more imposing steakhouse version.
SARASOTA MAGAZINE | JULY 2017 45

OVER THE TOP
CHEFS NAME THE
CONDIMENTS THAT
MAKE A BURGER
GREAT.
After starting with Niman Ranch beef,
which is raised on small family farms with
all-natural pasture and without any antibiot-
ics or growth hormones, I keep my toppings
simple. Provolone has the sharpness I like
in a cheese, ketchup takes the place of a
tomato and lettuce, and raw onion gives it
crunch. Mayonnaise adds creaminess, and
the acidity of a cold beer balances it all
out. PAUL MATTISON, MATTISONS 41, than traditional ground beef, so the patties are a little dry,
MATTISONS CITY GRILLE
Im a spicy kind of person, and I like Gul-
dens spicy brown mustard on my burgers
along with hot peppersjalapeos or even
habaneros. The heat enhances the flavor.
If Ive got a juicy burger with some outside
char and those spicy flavors, Im in heaven.
JOHN HOLIC, VENICE MAYOR AND BBQ
MASTER
Four years ago I went to The Skillet res-
taurant in Seattle and discovered bacon
jam. They sell it in jars. I bought one, and
a couple of chefs and I analyzed whats in
it: spices, cooked onions and bacon diced
fine, some roasted shallots, a little bit of
garlic, honey and salt and pepper. At my Eat
Here restaurant, well take a double patty
and layer it with the jam. It just pushes the
flavor over the top. SEAN MURPHY,
BEACH BISTRO, EAT HERE
I dont believe in smearing a burger with a
lot of different flavors. I add just a swath
of Hellmans mayonnaiseIm from New
England, so it has to be Hellmans. Because
its made with eggs and oil, the mayon-
naise adds a succulent creaminess. When
you bite into the burgerwhich should be
on a buttery brioche bun with lettuce and
tomatothe juice and fat from the meat
and the mayonnaise make it ooze with extra
flavor. JUDI GALLAGHER, CHEF AND
CONTRIBUTING FOOD AND WINE EDITOR
FOR SARASOTA MAGAZINE
11
NO.
THE ORIGINAL, $4.99-$9.79
S M A C K S B U R G E R S & S H A K E S
geckosgrill.com/smacks-burgers-shakes
(941) 922-7673
For a throwback with a locavore twist, order Smacks clas-
sic double-patty fast food burger tricked out with bison
meat from Three Suns Ranch in Punta Gorda. The meat
is topped with American cheese, lettuce, tomato, tangy
Smacks sauce and your choice of more whimsical picks
like jalapeos before being slapped between potato roll
halves. Its a subtly updated classic. Ground bison is leaner
but the flavor is outstanding, and the aridity is just an ex-
cuse to throw on some more of the house sauce.
But Beyond Meat, known for its plant-
Beyond Burger looks, cooks and tastes
12
beet juice. Details like that explain how
NO.
years coming up with this 21-ingredient
CHEESEBURGER, $6.55
Duffys Tavern
DUFFYSTAVERNAMI.COM, (941) 778-2501
Duffys has been a Holmes Beach institution since 1958,
and its burgers are still pulling in commuters from Sara-
sota and Tampa, as well as long-time islanders and kids
back home from college. The restaurant has added some
frou-frou options like blue cheese, caramelized onions and
the like, but its calling card remains its standard cheese-
burger. The meat is the star, with a peppered exterior that
delivers a sting. Ideal fuel for a day on the sand.
WHERES
THE
BEEF?
We put a much-hyped
.
new veggie burger
to the test.
I WOULD HAVE BEEN BETTER OFF
NOT READING THE INGREDIENT LIST.
In the top spot: something called pea
protein isolate. Not what leaps to mind
when I envision a juicy, tasty burger.
based offerings in grocery stores, says
that pea protein isolate is why its new
like fresh ground beef.
Lets put that to the test. A package
of two quarter-pound patties goes
for $5.99 at Whole Foods. At home, I
peel off the plastic wrapper and poke
the light pink patties, which give off a
strong but not unpleasant odor. Slipped
into a greased cast-iron skillet and
flipped halfway through, they cook in
six minutes,
I cant help but marvel at the texture.
The outside has turned black and
crackling in the pan, but the middle has
stayed juicy, and, unlike so many black
bean burgers and other veggie varieties,
it all hangs together. It even bleeds,
oozing a pink liquid thats derived from
Beyond Meat spent more than seven
blend.
But does it taste like beef? Even
dressed with all the trimmings and
squeezed inside a Martins potato roll,
it doesnt taste like meat to me. But
it tastes great, with its own distinct
meat-free identity. Billed as soy-free,
gluten-free and non-GMO, these patties
seem destined to beat down all veggie
competitors. Make some space on the
grill for one this summer.COOPER LEVEY-
Beyond Meats
BAKER
plant-based burgers
sizzling on the grill.
SARASOTA MAGAZINE | JULY 2017 47
 No. 15 The French Fry
BACON CHEESEBURGER, $11
Patricks 1481
P A T R I C K S 14 8 1. C O M , ( 9 4 1) 9 5 5 - 14 8 1
Hall of Fame
An institution. For years, Patricks hoarded Almost any fry is a good fry. But these are all-time greats.
best burger awards from local media out-
lets, delivering solid, straightforward com-
Steak Fries at Crinkle Fries Truffle Fries at French Fries
bos built around patties that would come
Alpine Steakhouse at Smacks Libbys Caf + Bar with Malt Aioli Urban Fries at
red in the middle if you so desired. The res- Youd expect great The classic crinkle Its hard to elevate at Veronica BurgerFi
taurant moved down the street to its cur- steak fries at a fry sparks memo- a French fry (its Fish & Oyster BurgerFi hand-cuts
rent digs after 25 years in its previous Five steakhouse, and ries of hanging basically perfect The creamy, tangy Idaho potatoes,
Points home but made sure to bring those Alpines wrist-thick out with your high already), but Libbys malt aioli thats blanches them and
steak fries deliver school friends at does just that with served alongside then double-fries
burgers with it. There may be more creative
on all counts: salty, an old-fashioned its truffle fries. The the thick-cut fries them in peanut oil
burgers out there today, but a throwback with a crispy shell drive-in burger joint matchstick potatoes at Veronica would to make them crisp
Patricks patty still has the capacity to wow, that shatters when on summer nights. are tossed with make converts out outside and tender
particularly on Mondays, when the eatery you bite into it and a Smacks are crispy earthy, delicious of the most passion- within. Theres a
slashes the price to an absurd $5. creamy interior. on the outside, with truffle oil, then ate ketchup purists. number of gussied-
just enough give as dusted with Parme- The fries are great up variations; the

13
Idaho Fries at you take a bite. The san and herbs. We on their own, hand- absolute ultimate
Five Guys ridges are ideal for wouldnt dream of cut and sprinkled is the urban fries,
Cheeseburger, $ $ 8.69 Five Guys buys 5 scooping up Smacks sharing. with salt, but the which are sprinkled
NO.

percent of Idahos sauce, a tangy malt-laced dipping with Parmesan and

BREWBURGERS potato crop each ketchup/mayon- sauce adds a touch herbs and topped
CHOOSING THE WINNER
brewburgers.com year, filling in with naise blend. of genius. with an ultra-rich
(941) 786-3341 or (941) 484-2337 We huddled with our foodie editors and Washington fries in mayonnaise and
sent out missives on social media to com- Idaho off months. garlicky aioli.MEGAN
pile a hit list of some 30 top contenders. They hand cut and MCDONALD
The grill gurus at BrewBurgers two Venice locations are expert
Then we ate our weight in burgers, rating power-wash them
searers, adept at keeping thin patties pink and juicy while scar- to remove starch
each one we sampled on a scale of one to
ring their exteriors to blackened beauty. A tender, floury bun before frying, then
five in five separate categories:
hugs the patty and contains the lettuce and tomato and a fistful pile them into a
of shredded lettuce. These burgers are a perfect accompaniment grease-stained
Meat taste brown paper bag
to the restaurants excellent selection of local beers. The menu
Bun flavor that makes them
gets adventurous and even a bit odd with toppings like mush-
Topping quality taste even better.
rooms, tapenade and Buffalo sauce, but we prefer the straight-up,
Creativity
lactose-heavy classic.
OMG factor B
Restaurants could also earn up to two
bonus points for cooking their burgers to

No. 14 the correct temperature.

Daily Bistro Burger, $11 Running the numbers helped us steer

BLU ISLAND BISTRO
bluislandbistro.com, (941) 485-8200
You never know what chef Alan Laskowski has in
store until you belly up at his charming Venice eat-
ery and ask whats what. The Daily Bistro Burger
may not change every day, but Laskowski mixes it
up at least every few days. On a recent visit, the
beef lay beneath a pile of sweet, charred pulled
pork, a strip of bacon and some dripping cheese.
If it sounds like a bit much, thats because it was.
But we finished every bite, and well be back again
soon to taste what Laskowski cooks up next.
clear of preconceptions and stay objec-
tive, and the final scores revealed some
winners and losers that we might not have
predicted when we began our quest.
Taste is a subjective matter, though, and
we realize you may have some other
burgers you think belong in the top 15.
Wed love to include you in the discussion.
Please share your favorite burgers on our
website at the end of this article or post
them on our Facebook page.

4 8 JULY 2017 | SARASOTA MAGAZINE SARASOTA MAGAZINE | JULY 2017 49