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Types
Main article: Types of cotton
There are four commercially grown species of cotton, all domesticated in antiquity:
Gossypium hirsutum upland cotton, native to Central America, Mexico, the Caribbean and southern Florida
(90% of world production)
Gossypium barbadense known as extra-long staple cotton, native to tropical South America (8% of world
production)
Gossypium arboreum tree cotton, native to India and Pakistan (less than 2%)
Gossypium herbaceum Levant cotton, native to southern Africa and the Arabian Peninsula (less than 2%)
The two New World cotton species account for the vast majority of modern cotton production, but the two Old
World species were widely used before the 1900s. While cotton fibers occur naturally in colors of white, brown, pink
and green, fears of contaminating the genetics of white cotton have led many cotton-growing locations to ban the
growing of colored cotton varieties.
History
Main article: History of cotton
Early history
Indian subcontinent
Indus Valley Civilization, Early Phase (3300-2600 BC)
The earliest evidence of cotton use in the Indian subcontinent has been found at the site
of Mehrgarh and Rakhigarhi where cotton threads have been found preserved in copper beads; these finds have
been dated to Neolithic (between 6000 and 5000 BC).[4][5] Cotton cultivation in the region is dated to the Indus Valley
Civilization, which covered parts of modern eastern Pakistan and northwestern India between 3300 and 1300
BC.[6] The Indus cotton industry was well-developed and some methods used in cotton spinning and fabrication
continued to be used until the industrialization of India.[7] Between 2000 and 1000 BC cotton became widespread
across much of India.[8] For example, it has been found at the site of Hallus in Karnataka dating from around 1000
BC.[9]
Americas
Cotton fabrics discovered in a cave near Tehuacn, Mexico, have been dated to around 5800 BC.[10] The
domestication of Gossypium hirsutum in Mexico is dated between 3400 and 2300 BC.[11]
In Peru, cultivation of the indigenous cotton species Gossypium barbadense has been dated, from a find in Ancon, to
c 4200 BC,[12] and was the backbone of the development of coastal cultures such as the Norte Chico, Moche,
and Nazca. Cotton was grown upriver, made into nets, and traded with fishing villages along the coast for large
supplies of fish. The Spanish who came to Mexico and Peru in the early 16th century found the people growing
cotton and wearing clothing made of it.
Arabia
The Greeks and the Arabs were not familiar with cotton until the Wars of Alexander the Great, as his
contemporary Megasthenes told Seleucus I Nicator of "there being trees on which wool grows" in "Indica".[citation
needed]
This may be a reference to "tree cotton", Gossypium arboreum, which is a native of the Indian subcontinent.
According to the Columbia Encyclopedia:[9]
Cotton has been spun, woven, and dyed since prehistoric times. It clothed the people of ancient India, Egypt, and
China. Hundreds of years before the Christian era, cotton textiles were woven in India with matchless skill, and their
use spread to the Mediterranean countries.
Iran
In Iran (Persia), the history of cotton dates back to the Achaemenid era (5th century BC); however, there are few
sources about the planting of cotton in pre-Islamic Iran. The planting of cotton was common in Merv, Rayand Pars of
Iran. In Persian poets' poems, especially Ferdowsi's Shahname, there are references to cotton ("panbe"
in Persian). Marco Polo (13th century) refers to the major products of Persia, including cotton. John Chardin, a
French traveler of the 17th century who visited Safavid Persia, spoke approvingly of the vast cotton farms of
Persia.[13]
China
During the Han dynasty (207 BC - 220 AD), cotton was grown by Chinese peoples in the southern Chinese province
of Yunnan.[14]
Middle Ages
Eastern world
Egyptians grew and spun cotton from 6700 CE.[15]
Handheld roller cotton gins had been used in India since the 6th century, and was then introduced to other countries
from there.[16] Between the 12th and 14th centuries, dual-roller gins appeared in India and China. The Indian version
of the dual-roller gin was prevalent throughout the Mediterranean cotton trade by the 16th century. This mechanical
device was, in some areas, driven by water power.[17]
The spinning wheel was invented in India, between 500 and 1000 AD.[18] The earliest clear illustrations of the
spinning wheel come from the Islamic world in the eleventh century.[19]
Europe
Cotton plants as imagined and drawn by John Mandeville in the 14th century
During the late medieval period, cotton became known as an imported fiber in northern Europe, without any
knowledge of how it was derived, other than that it was a plant. Because Herodotus had written in his Histories,
Book III, 106, that in India trees grew in the wild producing wool, it was assumed that the plant was a tree, rather
than a shrub. This aspect is retained in the name for cotton in several Germanic languages, such as
German Baumwolle, which translates as "tree wool" (Baum means "tree"; Wolle means "wool"). Noting its
similarities to wool, people in the region could only imagine that cotton must be produced by plant-borne
sheep. John Mandeville, writing in 1350, stated as fact the now-preposterous belief: "There grew there [India] a
wonderful tree which bore tiny lambs on the endes of its branches. These branches were so pliable that they bent
down to allow the lambs to feed when they are hungrie [sic]." (See Vegetable Lamb of Tartary.) By the end of the
16th century, cotton was cultivated throughout the warmer regions in Asia and the Americas.
1. English people buy Indian cotton in the field, picked by Indian labor at seven cents a day, through an optional
monopoly.
2. This cotton is shipped on British ships, a three-week journey across the Indian Ocean, down the Red Sea,
across the Mediterranean, through Gibraltar, across the Bay of Biscay and the Atlantic Ocean to London.
One hundred per cent profit on this freight is regarded as small.
3. The cotton is turned into cloth in Lancashire. You pay shilling wages instead of Indian pennies to your
workers. The English worker not only has the advantage of better wages, but the steel companies of
England get the profit of building the factories and machines. Wages; profits; all these are spent in England.
4. The finished product is sent back to India at European shipping rates, once again on British ships. The
captains, officers, sailors of these ships, whose wages must be paid, are English. The only Indians who profit
are a few lascars who do the dirty work on the boats for a few cents a day.
5. The cloth is finally sold back to the kings and landlords of India who got the money to buy this expensive
cloth out of the poor peasants of India who worked at seven cents a day.[42]
United States
Prisoners farming cotton under the trusty system in Parchman Farm, Mississippi, 1911
In the United States, Southern cotton provided capital for the continuing development of the North. The cotton was
largely produced through the labor of enslaved African Americans. It enriched both the Southern landowners and
the Northern merchants. Much of the Southern cotton was trans-shipped through northern ports. In this era the
slogan "Cotton is king" characterized the attitude of the South toward this monocrop.
Cotton remained a key crop in the Southern economy after emancipation and the end of the Civil War in 1865.
Across the South, sharecropping evolved, in which landless black and white farmers worked land owned by others in
return for a share of the profits. Some farmers rented the land and bore the production costs themselves. Until
mechanical cotton pickers were developed, cotton farmers needed additional labor to hand-pick cotton. Picking
cotton was a source of income for families across the South. Rural and small town school systems had split vacations
so children could work in the fields during "cotton-picking."
It was not until the 1950s that reliable harvesting machinery was introduced (prior to this, cotton-harvesting
machinery had been too clumsy to pick cotton without shredding the fibers).[citation needed] During the first half of the
20th century, employment in the cotton industry fell, as machines began to replace laborers and the South's rural
labor force dwindled during the World Wars.
Cotton remains a major export of the southern United States, and a majority of the world's annual cotton crop is of
the long-staple American variety.[43]
Cultivation
Cotton field
Cotton plant
Harvesting
Offloading freshly harvested cotton into a module builder in Texas; previously built modules can be seen in the
background
Uses
Cotton is used to make a number of textile products. These include terrycloth for highly absorbent
bath towels and robes; denim for blue jeans; cambric, popularly used in the manufacture of blue work shirts (from
which we get the term "blue-collar"); and corduroy, seersucker, and cotton twill. Socks, underwear, and most T-
shirts are made from cotton. Bed sheets often are made from cotton. Cotton also is used to make yarn used
in crochet and knitting. Fabric also can be made from recycled or recovered cotton that otherwise would be thrown
away during the spinning, weaving, or cutting process. While many fabrics are made completely of cotton, some
materials blend cotton with other fibers, including rayon and synthetic fibers such as polyester. It can either be used
in knitted or woven fabrics, as it can be blended with elastine to make a stretchier thread for knitted fabrics, and
apparel such as stretch jeans. Cotton can be blended also with linen as Linen-cotton blends which give benefit of
both plant materials which wrinkle resistant, lightweight, breathable and can keep heat more effectively than only
linen. These blends are thinner and lighter, but stronger than only cotton.[71]
In addition to the textile industry, cotton is used in fishing nets, coffee filters, tents, explosives manufacture
(see nitrocellulose), cotton paper, and in bookbinding. The first Chinese paper was made of cotton fiber.[citation
needed]
Fire hoses were once made of cotton.
The cottonseed which remains after the cotton is ginned is used to produce cottonseed oil, which, after refining, can
be consumed by humans like any other vegetable oil. The cottonseed meal that is left generally is fed
to ruminant livestock; the gossypol remaining in the meal is toxic to monogastric animals. Cottonseed hulls can be
added to dairy cattle rations for roughage. During the American slavery period, cotton root bark was used in folk
remedies as an abortifacient, that is, to induce a miscarriage. Gossypol was one of the many substances found in all
parts of the cotton plant and it was described by the scientists as 'poisonous pigment'. It also appears to inhibit the
development of sperm or even restrict the mobility of the sperm. Also, it is thought to interfere with the menstrual
cycle by restricting the release of certain hormones.[72]
Cotton linters are fine, silky fibers which adhere to the seeds of the cotton plant after ginning. These curly fibers
typically are less than 18 inch (3.2 mm) long. The term also may apply to the longer textile fiber staple lint as well as
the shorter fuzzy fibers from some upland species. Linters are traditionally used in the manufacture of paper and as
a raw material in the manufacture of cellulose. In the UK, linters are referred to as "cotton wool". This can also be a
refined product (absorbent cotton in U.S. usage) which has medical, cosmetic and many other practical uses. The
first medical use of cotton wool was by Sampson Gamgee at the Queen's Hospital (later the General Hospital)
in Birmingham, England.
Shiny cotton is a processed version of the fiber that can be made into cloth resembling satin for shirts and suits.
However, it is hydrophobic (does not absorb water easily), which makes it unfit for use in bath and dish towels
(although examples of these made from shiny cotton are seen).
The name Egyptian cotton is broadly associated with quality products, however only a small percentage of "Egyptian
cotton" products are actually of superior quality. Most products bearing the name are not made with cotton from
Egypt.[73]
Pima cotton is often compared to Egyptian cotton, as both are used in high quality bed sheets and other cotton
products. It is considered the next best quality after high quality Egyptian cotton by some authorities. Pima cotton is
grown in the American southwest. Not all products bearing the Pima name are made with the finest cotton. The
Pima name is now used by cotton-producing nations such as Peru, Australia and Israel.[74]
Cotton in a tree
Cotton lisle is a finely-spun, tightly twisted type of cotton that is noted for being strong and durable. Lisle is
composed of two strands that have each been twisted an extra twist per inch than ordinary yarns and combined to
create a single thread. The yarn is spun so that it is compact and solid. This cotton is used mainly for underwear,
stockings, and gloves. Colors applied to this yarn are noted for being more brilliant than colors applied to softer yarn.
This type of thread was first made in the city of Lisle, France (now Lille), hence its name.[75][76][77]
International trade
The five leading exporters of cotton in 2011 are (1) the United States, (2) India, (3) Brazil, (4) Australia, and
(5) Uzbekistan. The largest nonproducing importers are Korea, Taiwan, Russia, and Japan.[81]
In India, the states of Maharashtra (26.63%), Gujarat (17.96%) and Andhra Pradesh (13.75%) and also Madhya
Pradesh are the leading cotton producing states,[82] these states have a predominantly tropical wet and dry climate.
In the United States, the state of Texas led in total production as of 2004,[83] while the state of California had the
highest yield per acre.[84]
Fair trade
Cotton is an enormously important commodity throughout the world. However, many farmers in developing
countries receive a low price for their produce, or find it difficult to compete with developed countries.
This has led to an international dispute (see United States Brazil cotton dispute):
On 27 September 2002, Brazil requested consultations with the US regarding prohibited and actionable subsidies
provided to US producers, users and/or exporters of upland cotton, as well as legislation, regulations, statutory
instruments and amendments thereto providing such subsidies (including export credits), grants, and any other
assistance to the US producers, users and exporters of upland cotton.[85]
On 8 September 2004, the Panel Report recommended that the United States "withdraw" export credit guarantees
and payments to domestic users and exporters, and "take appropriate steps to remove the adverse effects or
withdraw" the mandatory price-contingent subsidy measures.[86]
While Brazil was fighting the US through the WTO's Dispute Settlement Mechanism against a heavily subsidized
cotton industry, a group of four least-developed African countries Benin, Burkina Faso, Chad, and Mali also
known as "Cotton-4" have been the leading protagonist for the reduction of US cotton subsidies through
negotiations. The four introduced a "Sectoral Initiative in Favour of Cotton", presented by Burkina Faso's President
Blaise Compaor during the Trade Negotiations Committee on 10 June 2003.[87]
In addition to concerns over subsidies, the cotton industries of some countries are criticized for employing child
labor and damaging workers' health by exposure to pesticides used in production. The Environmental Justice
Foundation has campaigned against the prevalent use of forced child and adult labor in cotton production
in Uzbekistan, the world's third largest cotton exporter.[88] The international production and trade situation has led
to "fair trade" cotton clothing and footwear, joining a rapidly growing market for organic clothing, fair fashion or
"ethical fashion". The fair trade system was initiated in 2005 with producers from Cameroon, Mali and Senegal.[89]
Trade
A display from a British cotton manufacturer of items used in a cotton mill during the Industrial Revolution.
A bale of cotton on display at the Louisiana State Cotton Museum in Lake Providence in East Carroll Parishin
northeastern Louisiana
Cotton is bought and sold by investors and price speculators as a tradable commodity on 2 different stock exchanges
in the United States of America.
Cotton No. 2 futures contracts are traded on the New York Board of Trade (NYBOT) under the ticker symbol CT.
They are delivered every year in March, May, July, October, and December.[90]
Cotton futures contracts are traded on the New York Mercantile Exchange (NYMEX) under the ticker symbol TT.
They are delivered every year in March, May, July, October, and December.[91]
Critical temperatures
1 thread = 55 in or 140 cm
1 skein or rap = 80 threads (120 yd or 110 m)
1 hank = 7 skeins (840 yd or 770 m)
1 spindle = 18 hanks (15,120 yd or 13.83 km)
Fiber properties
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Property Evaluation
Luster high
Tenacity (strength)
Dry 3.05.0 g/d
Wet 3.36.0 g/d
Resiliency low
Moisture absorption
raw: conditioned 8.5%
saturation 1525%
mercerized: conditioned 8.510.3%
saturation 1527%+
Resistance to
acids damage, weaken fibers
alkali resistant; no harmful effects
organic solvents high resistance to most
sunlight Prolonged exposure weakens fibers.
microorganisms Mildew and rot-producing bacteria damage fibers.
insects Silverfish damage fibers.
Thermal reactions
to heat Decomposes after prolonged exposure to temperatures of 150 C or over.
to flame Burns readily.
cellulose 91.00%
water 7.85%
protoplasm, pectins 0.55%
waxes, fatty substances 0.40%
mineral salts 0.20%
Cotton genome
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A public genome sequencing effort of cotton was initiated[94] in 2007 by a consortium of public researchers. They
agreed on a strategy to sequence the genome of cultivated, tetraploid cotton. "Tetraploid" means that cultivated
cotton actually has two separate genomes within its nucleus, referred to as the A and D genomes. The sequencing
consortium first agreed to sequence the D-genome relative of cultivated cotton (G. raimondii, a wild Central
American cotton species) because of its small size and limited number of repetitive elements. It is nearly one-third
the number of bases of tetraploid cotton (AD), and each chromosome is only present once. [clarification needed] The A
genome of G. arboreum would be sequenced next. Its genome is roughly twice the size of G. raimondii's. Part of the
difference in size between the two genomes is the amplification of retrotransposons (GORGE). Once both diploid
genomes are assembled, then research could begin sequencing the actual genomes of cultivated cotton varieties.
This strategy is out of necessity; if one were to sequence the tetraploid genome without model diploid genomes, the
euchromatic DNA sequences of the AD genomes would co-assemble and the repetitive elements of AD genomes
would assembly independently into A and D sequences respectively. Then there would be no way to untangle the
mess of AD sequences without comparing them to their diploid counterparts.
The public sector effort continues with the goal to create a high-quality, draft genome sequence from reads
generated by all sources. The public-sector effort has generated Sanger reads of BACs, fosmids, and plasmids as well
as 454 reads. These later types of reads will be instrumental in assembling an initial draft of the D genome. In 2010,
two companies (Monsanto and Illumina), completed enough Illumina sequencing to cover the D genome of G.
raimondii about 50x.[95] They announced that they would donate their raw reads to the public. This public relations
effort gave them some recognition for sequencing the cotton genome. Once the D genome is assembled from all of
this raw material, it will undoubtedly assist in the assembly of the AD genomes of cultivated varieties of cotton, but a
lot of hard work remains.
USES OF COTTON
Cotton is known for its versatility, performance and natural comfort. Its used to make all kinds of clothes and
homewares as well as for industrial purposes like tarpaulins, tents, hotel sheets and army uniforms.
Cotton fibre can be woven or knitted into fabrics such as velvet, corduroy, chambray, velour, jersey and flannel. In
addition to textile products like underwear, socks and t-shirts, cotton is also used in fishnets, coffee filters, book
binding and archival paper. Cotton is a food AND a fibre crop. Cotton seed is fed to cattle and crushed to make oil.
This cottonseed oil is used for cooking and in products like soap, margarine, emulsifiers, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals,
rubber and plastics.
Linters are the very short fibres that remain on the cottonseed after ginning. They are used to produce goods such
as bandages, swabs, bank notes, cotton buds and x-rays.
Quick Links
Properties and Applications of Cotton Fibre
September 15, 2016 Ashish Hulle 0 Natural Fibres, Textile Fibres
at 2400C. Cotton ignites easily and burns readily in air with odor similar to that of burning paper.
1.10. Effect of Aging
Cotton shows only a small loss of strength when stored carefully. It can be kept in the warehouse for long
periods without any significant deterioration. After 50 years of storage, cotton may differ only slightly from fibre a
year or two old. Ancient samples of cotton fabric taken from tombs more than 500 years old had four fifths of the
strength of new material.
1.11. Effect of Sunlight
There is a gradual loss of strength when cotton is exposed to sunlight, and yellow. The degradation of cotton
by oxidation when heated is promoted and encouraged by sunlight. It is particularly severe at high temperatures and
in the presence of moisture. Much of the damage is caused by ultra-violet light and by the shorter Waves of visible
light. Under certain the effects of weathering in direct sunlight can be serious. The cotton can be protected to some
degree by using suitable dyes.
1.12. Effect of Acids
Cotton is attacked by hot dilute acids or cold concentrated acids, in which it disintegrates. It is not affected by
cold weak acids.
1.13. Effect of Alkali
Cotton has an excellent resistance to alkalis. It swells in caustic alkali but is not damaged. It can be washed
repeatedly in soap solutions without harm.
Mercerization
Cotton can be mercerized by treating with or without tension in a strong solution of alkali like sodium
hydroxide (NaOH). Due to the mercerization the swelling of the fibre takes place. The proper can be improved like:
Shrinkage in yarn or fabric due to swelling
Improvement in luster
Improvement in tensile strength
Improvement in dyeabiliy and its uniformity
Improvement in dimensional stability
1.14. Effect of Organic Solvents
There are very few solvents that will dissolve cotton completely. It has a high resistance to normal solvents
but is dispersed by the copper complexes cuprammonium hydroxide and cupriethylene diamine, and by
concentrated (70%) H2S04
1.15. Micro-organisms
Cotton is attacked by fungi, bacteria. Mildews, for example, will feed on cotton because of this rotting
(decomposing) and weakening the material takes place. They have a characteristic musty smell and stain the fabric
with naturally produced pigments. Mildews are particularly troublesome on cotton that has been treated with
starchy finishes, and much of the damage can be avoided by thorough scouring. The pure cellulose is a less attractive
food for mildew than the starch Mildews and bacteria will flourish on cotton under hot, moist conditions.
When cottonfabrics are to be used under conditions favorable to attack by micro-organisms, they can be protected
by impregnation with certain types of chemical. Copper compounds, such as copper naphthenate, will destroy
organisms that would otherwise attack the cotton cellulose.
2. Applications of Cotton
1. Poplins, voiles are made by using Cotton.
2. Cotton is used in great quantity as a fabric for hot weather wear.
3. The absorbency of cotton makes it an excellent material for household fabrics such as sheets and towels.
4. Cotton is widely used in making rainwear fabrics. It can be woven tightly to keep out the driving wind arid
rain, yet the fabric will allow perspiration to escape.
5. Ventile fabrics, for example, are close-woven cotton materials of this sort which are given additional water
resistance by a chemical proofing.
6. It goes into clothing (shirts, T-shirts, trousers, denim, etc.), undergarments, boots and shoes, carpets and
curtains, hats, etc.
7. Heavy cotton yarns and materials are used for tyre cords and marquees, tarpaulins and industrial fabrics of
all descriptions.
8. Cotton can be blended with other fibres like polyester, rayon to manufacture fabric for different
applications.
Chemical Structure of Cotton Fibre
September 17, 2016 Ashish Hulle 0 Natural Fibres, Textile Fibres
Cotton is the natural fibre of vegetable origin. It is considered as King of the Textile Fibres. It is composed of
cellulose. Each fibre is made up of 20-30 layers of cellulose coiled on a neat series of natural springs. The cellulose is
arranged in a way that gives cotton fibres high strength, durability and absorbency.
Cellulose is one of the main constituent of the cotton fibre. in nature, plants utilize CO2 present in air &
water & build up compounds containing C, H, and O in the presence of sunlight. This reaction is called
photosynthesis. Glucose is one of the product formed this way.
Figure 1 Glucose
Figure 2 Cellobiose
Figure 3 Cellulose
Figure 4 Chemical structure of cotton fibre
Photo Credits: Trisha Jain (nutrientreview.com)
When two glucose combine, cellobiose molecule is formed and when cellobiose molecules combine with
each other, giant cellulose molecule is formed. These cellubiose molecules thus linked through strong oxygen bridge
lengthwise. Also by comparatively weaker forces side way, in areas where these sideways forces are
operating, crystalline region is formed and the places where these forces are not operating, amorphous region is
formed.
MORPHOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF COTTON FIBRE
September 15, 2016 Ashish Hulle 0 Natural Fibres, Textile Fibres
Cotton is a seed hair fibre. It grows in the form of a single cell merging from the epidermis or outer layer of
cotton seed. Each flower of cotton plant may produce 20-25 seeds enclosed in a green boll. When the growth ceases
(stops), the boll splits. The fibres grow in a tubular form, with a well-developed wall enclosing the lumens running
down the centre. When the boll splits, the moisture inside it evaporates. As drying proceeds, the wall of the fibre
shrinks and collapses, on drying and collapsing of the fibre, the cylindrical cross-section is converted in to convoluted
ribbon form with the flattening of the ribbon Morphological structure of cotton consists of four parts. These are:
1. Cuticle
2. Primary Wall
3. Secondary Wall
4. Lumen
Following figure shows the morphological structure of cotton fibre.
CUTICLE
The cuticle of the cotton fibre is a very thin layer tightly attached to the outside of primary wall. More
accurately, cotton fibre is enclosed in cuticle which protects the fibre from any mechanical and chemical damages.
The cuticle consists of cotton wax, mixture of fats, waxes and oils. During initial stages of growth, the cuticle appears
as an oily film. During the later stage, the cuticle becomes hard like a varnish.
PRIMARY WALL
The primary wall is built up from cellulose. It also contains pectineus substances. The cellulose appears to
concentrate from the growth period and increases proportionally later stage of cell elongation. On the surface, the
molecular chains in the primary wall are arranged in a random manner without any orientation and definite order.
However, cellulose present inside the primary wall is in the form of fine threads or fibrils, when observed through
microscope. The fibrils are not parallel to the fibre axis but spiral at an angle of about 700 round the fibre axis. The
spirals do not reverse in their direction; the spiral angle is greater at the tip and smaller at the base. The diameter of
the cotton fibre is fairly constant throughout the length except at the base and the tip. The diameter of the fibre is in
the order of 15-20 microns, whereas the primary wall is very thin and about 0.1-0.2 micron thick.
SECONDARY WALL
It is composed mainly of cellulose and contributes most of the weight to the fibre, in general, within the primary
wall, the bulk of the fibre consists of secondary wall. Like primary wall, it consists of concentric layers of fibrils in
spiral formation. The outer layers of secondary wall, deposited near the primary wall are built up of fibrils at spiral
angle of about 200-300 The fibrils in the subsequent layers are finer than former and the spiraling angle is about 200 -
450 The spiral angle changes slightly in magnitude between the outside and the inside. The spirals also change their
direction of rotation at frequent intervals along the fibre length at the reversal point, they simply form a curve.
Always the second set of fibril begins in the opposite direction. In all the layers, the fibrils tend to follow a closely
similar pattern. Arrangement of chain molecules in different parts is shown in fig. 1.
LUMEN
At the centre of the growing fibre, there is a lumen, which remains as cylindrical void at maturity. The area is
about 30-35% of the total area of cross section. The lumen content evaporates after the boll splits. After drying and
collapsing of the fibre, the area of lumen is reduced to about 5% of the total area. Of course, there is variation from
fibre to fibre. In the dried state, lumen contains colouring matters apart from other impurities, which decides the
colour of the fibre.
CONVOLUTIONS
After bursting of the mature boll, the wall of the fibre shrinks and collapses, on drying and collapsing of the
fibre, the cylindrical cross-section is converted in to convoluted ribbon form with the flattening of the ribbon. Due to
the spiral structure, collapse results twisting of the fibre about axis. The direction of rotation convolution change at
irregular interval along the length of the fibre at places determined by reversal point in pattern of fibrillar spiral in
secondary walls. The convolution arises in order to relieve the internal stresses during the drying and collapse of
cotton fibre and as shown in figure below:
Figure 3 Convoluted Cotton Fibres
Cultivation of Cotton
September 18, 2016 Ashish Hulle 0 Natural Fibres, Textile Fibres
Cotton is primarily grown in dry tropical and subtropical climates at temperature between 25-280C. It is
warm climate crop. Excessive exposure to dryness or moisture deteriorate the quality as well as yield (Production).
Cotton seeds should be planted in well prepared moist soil with high nutrient supplying capacity. Ridges are
made on the soil before sowing the cotton seeds. Planting period varies in different regions. In U.S., usually it is
March or April. While in India it is from April to August. The seeds are planted 1-10 cm deep and in rows/ridges
which are 1 m apart. If the soil is sufficiently warm and moist, germination and seedling development starts. Young
plant pushes up through the surface of the soil in 8-12 days. If the soil is too dry, germination may not take place and
if it is wet and cold, germination is slow and uncertain. The leaves and the stem of young plants are very tender
(Young and Immature). Leaves then become dark olive green and the plants grow rapidly. Flowering generally starts
one and half months to two months after the crop is planted. Blooming will continue regularly for several weeks,
even months as long as growing conditions are suitable. Formation of cotton flower bud takes place in this period.
The open flower of cotton plant is yellowish to white in colour on first day. It turns pink on second day. This flower
lasts for day or so and on third day flower falls down. After disappearance of the flower, the inner part of the bloom
gradually develops into fruit which is called as Cotton Boll. Cotton bolls keep growing till full size. It will take about
two months between blooming and 1st day of opening the boll. The immature seeds thus formed, grow rapidly and
large cotton boll mature in 40-50 days. Cotton. Cotton fibres grow inside the closed boll on the cotton seed. Each
cotton seed may contain 20,000 fibres on its surface and a single boll may contain 1,50,000 fibres or more.
Cotton is primarily made into yarns and threads to be used in the manufacture of clothing that constitutes to 60
percent of the cotton consumption. It is also used to make home furnishings like cushions, mattresses etc.
Cotton outputs:
Apparels - that are 100 percent cotton and also a fine blend of other fibres.
Home textiles - curtains, cushions, draperies, rugs etc.
Medical, surgical, and sanitary products.
Industrial abrasives.
Book bindings.
Accessories like handbags, shoes etc.
COTTON FIBRE major uses include wearing apparel, home furnishings, and other industrial uses (such as medical
supplies). The cotton fibre is made primarily into yearns and threads for use in the textile and apparel sectors
(wearing apparel would account for approximately 60% of cotton consumption). Cotton is also used to make home
furnishings, such as draperies (eventually the third major end use) or professional garments (about 5% of cotton
fibre demand).
Besides traditional uses and as a result of different finishing processes that have been applied to the cotton fibre,
cotton is made into specialty materials suitable for a great variety of uses. Cotton fabrics with specialty applications
include, for example, fire-proof (flame resistant) apparel, which is suitable for professional uses and provides
effective protection against potential risks associated with high temperature and particularly flashover. Flame
resistant cotton fabrics are treated with chemicals. Without chemical treatment, cotton would burn up releasing
very strong heat, just like the major part of synthetic fibres, which melt when they are exposed to high
temperatures.
Cotton also finds specialty applications in medical and hygienic uses. Most notably, the fibre is used
to manufacture hydrophile cotton (cotton wool), compress, gauze bandages, tampons or sanitary towels, and cotton
swabs. In this field, the most suitable cotton variety is the species Gossypium herbaceum with short-staple thick
fibres.
One development that will most likely affect cotton consumption patterns is the marketing of coloured fibres
tailored to the needs of the textile industry. Substantial technological advances have taken place in this area.
According to the Ministry of Higher Education and Scientific Research in Burkina Faso: In China for example, one
does not make any more dyeing. China uses transgenic cotton plants which produce yellow, white, green, or red
cotton; to sum up, any customised colour grade.
Cotton demand is strongly influenced by comparative prices vis--vis man-made fibres (artificial and synthetic
fibres). Artificial fibres (like viscose rayon and acetates) are made from organic polymers derived from natural raw
materials, mainly cellulose. Synthetic fibres (including acrylics, polyamides, and polyesters) are generally derived
from petrochemicals petroleum products.
From the beginning of the 20th century until the end of the second world war (WWII) cotton had accounted
for 81% of world total fibre consumption. A shift occurred in the 1940s, when man-made fibres first appeared in the
market (accounting for 12% of the worlds total fibre consumption over the 1940s). As from the 1960s, with a
deepening of the trend since 1970, decline in cotton consumption has become more prominent. The ratio of cotton
in the fibre market decreased from 75% in 1940 to 68% in 1960. In 1970 cotton accounted for 57% of textile fibres.
Since the early 2000s, cotton has accounted for roughly 39% of world fibre consumption. By contrast, the share of
synthetic fibres rose to 58%, up from 5% in 1960.
There are some other key advantages or cotton fibre. Those ares-
1. It is inexpensive,
2. It has absorbent properties.
3. It is breathable.
4. It is easier to wash and care for than others.
5. During working time, cotton cloths is too much perfect to wear.
6. Cotton is also too much soft.
Disadvantages of Cotton:
Those are in the below:
1. It is not wrinkle resistant.
2. It is likely to stretch or shrink.
3. Cotton takes a long time to dry.
4. The color fades in sunlight here.
Uses of Cotton:
There are so many uses of cotton which are presented in the below:
1. House or home textiles:
Table cloths, bed cloth, kitchen cloths, hand towels, furniture covering, carpets and bath towels etc.
2. Accessories:
Laces, trimmings, ribbons kerchiefs, hand, umbrella etc.
3. Apparel fabrics:
Night wear, blouses, shirts, rain wear, leisures wear, trousers etc.
4. Industrial textiles:
Workers protective clothing, cords, sewing threads, shoes, bags and medical suppliers etc.
The use of natural fibers in healthcare applications dates all the way back to ancient times. In fact, one of the earliest
documented examples of natural fibers (wood) being used in a healthcare capacity was for wooden dentures. Cotton
history in healthcare is not far behind, as it has long been used in the healthcare arena due to its absorbency,
softness, purity, and hypoallergenic properties. Cotton can also be sterilized by all three major sterilization methods:
steam, ethylene oxide, and gamma radiation.
Today well briefly discuss the four major areas of healthcare products: non-implantable, implantable,
extracorporeal, and hygienic. Cotton has been or is being used in all four.
1. Non-Implantable Products
Non-implantable products are applied externally. This group includes dressings, bandages, and padding. This also
extends to protective clothing such as patient and medical personnel gowns, drapes, gloves, facemasks, dental rolls,
and pellets. Cotton can be used in all of these products as either 100% cotton, cotton blended with other fibers, or in
fabric composites.
2. Implantable Products
Implantable products are obviously used inside the body. Cotton is a key component in many brands of tampons,
and therefore falls into this category. This is once again a testament to the level of trust cotton provides, and further
proof of why its consumer-preferred not just for healthcare, but a variety of applications.
3. Extracorporeal Products
Extracorporeal healthcare products are used in procedures that take place outside of the body. One example of how
cotton is used in this capacity is as a debridement sponge. These sponges can be used to clean or debride an organ
outside the body cavity, which means only the purest and safest fiber should be used.
4. Hygiene Products
Hygiene products are widely used in many healthcare applications, such as baby and adult diapers, incontinence
products, feminine hygiene pads, and sanitizing and antiseptic wipes. Cotton can be utilized in all these products as
well. It may be as simple as a cotton ball with alcohol to clean your arm before an injection, or as complex as being a
component in a modern diaper structure.
Cotton and shrimp you're not likely to see it as a surf 'n' turf special on the menu at your favorite restaurant, but
the unlikely combination may hold promise for alleviating hard-to-treat wounds.
Agricultural Research Service Chemist Vince Edwards and his group in the USDA-ARS Cotton Chemistry and
Utilization Research Unit at the Southern Regional Research Center, New Orleans, are working on an array of
valuable medical products that can halt bleeding, soothe burns, fight microbes, and more all using cotton.
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Their work, reported by Erin Peabody in the February issue of Agricultural Researchmagazine, also is focusing on the
possible use of specially-treated cotton for high tech military clothing that could halt blood loss in a hemorrhaging
event, offering protection that could be as vital as body armor.
Cotton is ideal for medical dressings, Edwards notes, because it is soft, pliable, and provides a ready substrate for
locking in health-promoting compounds.
One such substance, chitosan, a unique carbohydrate in shrimp shells, is a true natural wonder, he says. In
addition to its anti-bacterial qualities, it is also a natural clot promoter.
Dressings modified with chitosan are already in military use, but Edwards has developed an improved method for
more uniformly embedding the compound in cotton fibers for use in a variety of cotton materials, including fabric
for medical gauze, clothing, and hospital sheets.
Testing hurdles remain, but he and his team hope their work will result in more effective products for both military
and civilian use.
One that's moving toward the marketplace is a bandage with a brain, a wound dressing that targets destructive
enzymes (proteases) that collect in chronic wounds.
In many chronic wounds, the body's natural defenses produce too many foot soldiers to break down dead and
dying tissue. Edwards' dressing, licensed to a Virginia company and approved by the Food and Drug Administration in
2006, was the first bandage of its kind with proven ability to sop up excess protease 40 percent to 80 percent
more effectively than untreated cotton wound dressings. It may also promote protein-building microphages,
necessary for proper skin healing. It is hoped the dressing will be adopted by the Veterans Administration for use in
its hospitals.
Edwards and his team are also working on improved bed sheets, woven from the smoothest of cotton fibers, for use
in treating and perhaps preventing pressure ulcers. The wrinkle-free, super smooth sheets can also be treated with
the shrimp shell chitosan to help fight microbes.
There's a lot of potential in this field, he says. Hospital sheets haven't changed much in the last 100 years.
Chronic wounds hard to heal bed sores or pressure ulcers are a painful, sometimes fatal, condition affecting
about 5 million Americans, mostly elderly patients restricted to hospital beds or diabetics with circulation problems.
It costs more than $7 billion annual to treat these wounds, and that's expected to increase substantially as the
nation's elderly population increases. All this represents a great opportunity for improving treatment products,
Edwards says, and more innovative uses of cotton and textiles.
Research proves you get a better night's sleep on cotton sheets than sheets made from synthetic fibers because
cotton naturally allows your skin to breathe and doesnt trap heat under the covers.
Since cotton is breathable and doesnt retain odors like oil-based fabrics, you can save your clothes a few trips to the
hamper between wears. Not doing laundry is awesome, of course. Plus youll save money, water and energy, and
help your clothes last even longer.
From work to play, athletic wear to evening wear, cotton is there. The fiber is so versatile that it can be woven or
knitted into a bunch of different fabrics like corduroy, chambray, lace and velour. So no matter what the occasion,
cotton has you covered.
Count On Cotton
Cotton is strong, tough and not afraid to get its fibers dirty. You can rely on it to last a long time and not fall apart on
the first wear. From durable work clothes to timeless LBDs, stock your closet with cotton because its in it for the
long haul.
Cotton is easier to wash and care for than other fabrics, so let your washing machine do your dirty work and enjoy
the money youll save on dry cleaning.
Stay in Shape
There is such a thing as too much stretch. The more spandex you add to a garment, the higher your chances of
sagging, bagging and stretching out. Keep your clothes from getting bent out of shape by looking for less than 5%
spandex on the label.
Breathe Easy
Dont get caught in a sweat trap! Cotton breathes better than oil-based synthetic fabrics like polyester,* so its the
perfect thing to wear when youre working out. Not to mention that moisture-wicking cotton is specially designed to
keep you drier and cooler during exercise.
*Marjory Joseph. Introductory Textile Science, 5th Edition, 1984, pp. 358-359.
Cotton is soft, absorbent and breathable. So, if your clothes are itchy, irritating, stiff or clingy, look on your label
because your clothing may not be cotton-rich. Learn about what determines comfort in a fiber.
Cotton is a lot of things, but its definitely NOT clingy! Static cling can be blamed for many an embarrassing fabric fail,
but cotton is never the culprit because it cant hold an electric charge. So if you want cling-free clothes, stick with
cotton. Learn about what causes static cling.
If people think pilling is wrong, then choosing cotton has to be right! Pills are pesky balls of tangled fibers that pop
up on your clothes when the fabric rubs against itself or another material. Once nylon, polyester and blends pill, its
permanent, while cotton sheds any pills in the wash. So if you want your clothes to stay smooth, check the label
before you buy. Learn about what causes clothing to pill.
SANJANA GUPTA
The human race has been wearing cotton clothing since 5,000 BC and it happens to be the most widely used
natural fibre in the world today. Wearing cotton clothing has many advantages and a few disadvantages, so
read on to find out what they are.
Advantages of cotton fabric:
Breathable: Unlike most synthetic fabrics, cotton absorbs the sweat from your body and allows it to
evaporate into the air. It works like a towel, wicking the moisture away from your skin and discouraging the
growth of bacteria and yeast. This property makes it the best fabric for exercise clothes, underwear and
sleepwear.
Soft: Cotton is a soft and stretchy fabric that is comfortable to wear.
Insulating: Cotton does not conduct temperature well, making it an insulator. It keeps you cool in summer
and warm in winter, allowing you to be comfortable year round. It resists static cling as well.
Natural: While synthetic fabrics are manufactured with chemicals, cotton is a natural fabric that does not
irritate the skin.
Non-allergenic: Cotton fabrics do not cause skin allergies, which is why they are recommended for babies
and people with sensitive skin. This is also one of the reasons why bandages and gauze are made with cotton.
Strong: Cotton fibres are spun into a tight yarn that is both strong and durable. In fact, it is 30 percent
stronger when it is wet, so it can withstand quite a few washes. It happens to be stain -repellent too.
Versatile: There are many varieties of cloth that are all made with cotton fibre. These include denim,
corduroy, seersucker, chino, broadcloth, calico, and gingham. Cotton also takes well to dye, so it is available in
a range of vivid colours.
Disadvantages of cotton fabric:
Shrinkage: When you buy cotton clothing, you may have to pick a slightly larger size than your actual size
since it tends to shrink. If you are making an outfit out of cotton fabric, make sure you wash it once before you
stitch it, so that it has shrunk already.
Wrinkles: Cotton fabric is prone to wrinkling, so you'll have to iron your clothes every time you wa nt to wear
them.
Damage: Cotton is more prone to damage since it's a natural fibre. It can get damaged by damp and mildew
and tends to fade in the sunlight.
Washing: The colours from cotton clothing can run, bleeding onto your other clothes and discol ouring them.
It is also dries slowly and is more prone to lint, since the fibres tend to be pretty short.