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Standard Operating Procedures for Manufacturing units

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1. Order Cycle

Export QC Finishe d Goods Embroider y Printin g Sewing Cutting

Marketing

Sampling

Costing
Work Study

Merchandising

Technical & Production Planning

Stores

Import s

Sourcin g

External Entities

Production Process

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2. Production Flow Chart

Stores Technical Package of style handed By the Merchandising Department Along with
the T & A Plan. Production Technical Q/A

Packing Cutting Washing

Stores issue G.R.N Within 24 working hrs.

Fabric & Trims In house as per T & A.

Fabric Inspections.

10% Inspection by Q/A department. Report to be submitted within 48 hrs.

Trim Inspection.

Shade Band 100%

10% Shrinkage.

10% Fabric,4 Point system

Fabric issued to Cutting as per cut Sheet quantity.

Merchandising will issue Cutting Plan & Cut Sheet. Fit / Proto Sample.

Defects.

Skewin g.

All Samples should be Approved.. Width Shading. Pilot Run of 100 Units.

Contract Seal Sample.

Production Manager. Merchandiser. Lay Sheet to be circulated Daily.

Size Set/Rack Sample Bulk Fabric Laying & Cutting. Fusing & Assorting. In put.
Loading Plan by Production Manager. Production Status Circulated at 10.00 A.M

Sewing
Cost

In Line Check.

Final Line Checking.

Out Put Final Inspection 24 hrs prior to delivery Date.

Washing

Finishing

Trimming

Packing.

Pressing
Finished Goods. Fabric.
Reconciliation Within 24 hrs. Exportation of Garments.

Final Checking.

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3. Sampling
3.1 Objective: • The throughput time for sample making should be 3 days from cut
date. • • • To manufacture shirts 100% as per customer requirements. Storage and
presentation of patterns , samples , trims & fabric wirh proper identification
status for easy retreival. To ensure that for all wash codes shrinkages are
analysed roll wise either on a sample lot or 100% roll based on customer
requirement and multiple shrinkage patterns are drawn where required. • To ensure
that the samples are produced keeping in mind the responsibility of the same in
bulk and highlighting to customer if their specification cannot be met in bulk.

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3.2 Process flow chart Process Flow Sampling

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The sample Room is the “Heart” of any Apparel Manufacturing Organization. Hence it
is utmost important to the Sample room in charge to ensure high quality Samples
within a very short lead-time is submitted & approved by Buyer. Ensure your work
force is adequate to meet the ever-growing demand of samples. After receiving the
Tech pack, Study carefully & revert back within 8 hours for queries. As soon as a
new tech pack is received, sampling dept. should submit the Mini markers to the
Marketing division & if any changes occur during the process, the revised Mini
marker should be presented immediately if the reason for revision is valid. Further
as a norm, once the mini marker is submitted to a certain styling, The same yield
or less should be maintained for the bulk production as well. As Intimated above,
No Sample is to be cut without the patterns had been checked against the spec sheet
along with the Pattern maker. All non-wash Garments should be submitted within 3
days Maximum & wash Garments should be submitted within 4 days. No Sample is to be
undertaken without the sample requisition form (Annexure-1).

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Samples to be made in the sample room
• • • • • • Development Sample Salesman samples Fit Samples Pre production samples
Testing samples Size set

The sample room is not to make any T.O.P Sample or Shipment sample. These samples
should be submitted by the Q/A department & produced in the Production floor. The
sample room should always maintain a Mini Stores, which should include Fabric
yardage, Zippers, Buttons Thread, buttons, Labels & Tags pertaining to all styles.
Once the Pre Production sample is approved, the size set should be submitted for
all styles & the final Graded pattern would be made. Strictly no pattern revision
is to be made after approval of size set without the approval of Sample room In-
charge & the concerned Merchandiser. The Approved Pre production sample should be
handed over to the R & D Department during the P.P. meeting. The Sample room should
always cross check all the Shrinkages (Thermal, Cut, Steam, Washing, Fusing) of the
fabric before making samples & adjust patterns accordingly. All reports / tech pack
/ manuals etc, should be documented & maintained. A reference sample should always
be kept in house as a representative of any sample, which is submitted, to Buyers.
This is utmost important & should be kept in the sample room.

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3.3 Sample Stages:

3.3.1 Development/ Proto

1. The purpose of making a development sample for a buyer is to check for the look
of the style. 2. Receive sampling Indent and fabric 3. Develop pattern for the
style. 4. Sample Cutting should be done as per the required numbers with the
available fabric and pattern. 5. Sample sewing: The samples are stitched with
available fabric and trims. 6. Checking 7. Finishing and Packing 8. Sending for
approval 9. Receive the comments a. If passed then proceed to next stage with
comments if any (new indent to be issued) b. If rejected then redo the sample as
per comments (new indent to be issued).

3.3.2 Fit sample

1. Receive sampling Indent 2. Fabric treatment 3. Pattern making/ correction Rest
all stages same as Development except that during checking it is now checked for
measurements and fit.

3.3.3 Pre production Sample/ Sealer/ Gold Seal

The purpose of making a pre production Sample is to check for the actual fabric and
trims and style. Input: Comments on Fit sample, shrinkage report. The process
remains same as the previous stage.

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This is like a sealer for the production, so whatever changes if need to be done,
should be made before this stage. So, the sample should be looked for production
feasibility before this.

3.3.4 Size Set

The purpose is to check all sizes for measurements based on the graded spec. The
process remains same as the previous stage except that the graded spec is required
and checked in each stage.

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4. Research & Development
4.1 Objective:

- The purpose of R&D department is to research on the style in all

aspects like construction details, methods, production feasibility and identifying

potential problems.

4.2 Interfacing Departments

4.2.1Planning • • Sending the samples for SMV and Thread consumption calculation
Pilot loading plan and priorities (Annexure- 2)

4.2.2 Merchandising: • • • Merchandiser issues the work order to stores to open the
bales and send for shrinkage testing. Sends the PP sample and comments to pattern
master. Giving the requirement for pilot if needed and how many samples are
required. 4.2.3 IED • • • • • SMV Thread consumption Layout Operation bulletin
Manpower allocation

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4.3 Process Flow Pilot Run Receipt of file and PP sample Receipt of shrinkage
report Pattern amendment and grading for base pattern Making hard pattern Pattern
checking and Issue to pilot run Getting fabric issued for required number of pcs
Cutting (manual) Checking cut panels Loading and sewing
Cutting one size set (manual) Checking cut panels Cutting 100/ 200 pcs (straight
knife/ autocutter)

Checking cut panels Loading and sewing

Loading and sewing Pieces ready

Pieces ready Checking before wash measurements Washing Checking after wash
measurements Report given to master Pattern amendment and grading

Pieces ready Checking before wash measurements Washing Checking after wash
measurements Report given to master Pattern amendment Amendment Checking before
wash measurements Washing Checking after wash measurements Report given to master
Pilot offered Receive comments

Proceed for bulk cutting

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4.4 Purpose: The purpose of making pilot is to see how the fabric will behave when
constructed in a garment during bulk production. It is the representation of the
bulk. It has to be done in actual fabric and actual sewing trims. A Pilot lot is a
small cut across all sizes and colors, which will identify any potential problem in
manufacturing prior to the factory cutting bulk. Pilot runs covering all colors &
sizes are applied on all styles (even repeat style with different fabrication)
except for test orders. Pilot run garments are carefully assessed on construction,
making up method, machines used, measurement, washing & pressing effect etc., &
report is kept for reference. Necessary adjustment is made on pattern, machinery
setting, seam allowance, sewing, washing & pressing methods etc., prior to bulk
cutting / production.

The sample size differs from buyer to buyer as follows:

• • • Express: 3 samples per size covering all sizes in a color i.e. if there are 4
sizes in one color then it accounts for 12 samples per color. S. Oliver: 2 samples
per size covering all the sizes in a color i.e. if there are four colors and five
sizes then it accounts for 40 pcs a pilot. Armani Exchange/ Arrow/ Izod (Triburg):
5 samples per size covering all the sizes in a color i.e. if there are four colors
and five sizes then it accounts for 100 pcs a pilot. • • • • • M & S/ Esprit: 2 pc
per size in all colors i.e. total 12 – 15 pcs in all colors. Tommy Hilfieger: 4 pcs
in M size for all colors and doing jumping sizes in all colors. The requirement is
minimum 25 pcs per pilot. Marc O’ Polo: 2 pcs per size in jumping colors. Monoprix:
2 pcs per size. Levis Dockers/ Levis Signature: 3 pcs per size in all jumping
colors.

This ultimately will ensure that bulk production will not be affected and that
mistakes if any will be made and corrected during the Pilot.

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Pilot lots are cut for the following reasons:
• It might be that factory is working on a new fabric type that it has not handled
before, therefore handling and machine settings must be looked at and set
accordingly. • New construction methods. • New machinery, or new settings • Ensure
that shrinkage allowances built into patterns are correct for steam shrinkage,
washing shrinkage or any other after treatment standard. • Early T.O.P. approval.
If there are no issues with the first Pilot cutting then the factory will
automatically have garments to send for approval. This must be looked at as
opportunity to find and iron out problems before bulk rather than just another
procedure. To standardize this process all sizes and colors have to cut across a
specified quantity. The assessment form must be filled in and counter signed by a
management, to ensure that all areas have been analyzed with a specified course of
action needed for bulk. This must be filed in the Master style file.

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4.5 The working of the pilot department is as follows: Receiving the PP sample and
File: After the PP sample is approved with some comments, it is handed over to
pattern section for making the patterns. The patterns are amended and graded. The
required shrinkage is added lengthwise and width wise and then issued for
subsequent processes. Style file contains all the critical details about a
particular style. The file build depends on the buyer. But primarily file includes
following details. Manual Work Order PO Sheet Bill Of Materials Tech Pack Buyer
Comments Pre production meeting comments Fabric swatch(shade band, wash standards &
hand feel) Approved Trim card Fabric/accessories/garment test report Standard
procedure The pilot is cut and made in the required rolls of decided shrinkage.
Pattern Amendment According to the fabric shrinkage report, the required shrinkage
is added to already graded patterns. The hard pattern for base size is then
prepared and issued to pilot section for cutting. Pattern review The pattern is
reviewed. On the basis of shrinkage, before and after wash measurements are
prepared. Fabric Issues The required fabric rolls are issued in each color.

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Making the base size The base size “M” is then cut in each color and loaded in line
for sewing. As soon as the pieces are ready, they are reviewed for before wash
measurements and construction and sent for wash if required and after required
ironing/ pressing, the samples are reviewed for after wash shrinkage. Pattern
amendment and issues If the actual after wash measurements are not tallying with
the required measurements, the pattern needs to be amended. The report is given to
the master and accordingly after correcting the patterns, the hard patterns are
prepared. Making the size set The extreme sizes (i.e. S and XXL for sizes S to XXL)
in all colors are cut and stitched. After washing (if needed) and ironing the size
sets are reviewed. If any discrepancy is there the report is given again for
pattern amendment. Based on these two steps, the patterns are finalized and then
issued for cutting pilot. Pilot Cutting The marker for approximately 200 pcs across
all the colors is then issued for cutting. Depending upon the requirement, the full
cut parts are taken from these cut lay and loaded in the pilot line. The balance
cut parts are taken for loading in and setting the decided production line.
(Annexure –3) Outsourced process As per the requirement for embroidery/ printing or
in case of any outsourced process, the panels are cut and sent outside with
markings and other instructions. Pilot Sewing The actual trims and threads are used
for making the pilot. The operation breakdown for a style is done by the I.E. dept.
along with the machinery requirement and layout. The stitching is done by
experienced operators under the supervision of trainers. The whole stitching
process is monitored by the technical manager so as to get a fair idea of how to
set the process for the bulk. Each operation is critically analyzed and assessed so
as to get maximum productivity from the assembly lines in the bulk production
maintaining the desired quality standards. The trainers after analyzing the 16
operations help the operators in the sewing lines for critical operations and thus
minimize the area under learning curve (reduces learning time). Taking before wash
measurements The master gives the before wash and after wash measurement sheet. The
before wash measurements are reviewed by the QC and in case of any discrepancy, it
is immediately brought in notice of the master. At this time the pieces are also
checked for any quality defects. Outsourced process If the embroidery/ print has to
be done after garment is made, it is sent for embroidery/ print with all the
markings as per specifications. Taking After wash measurements After the pieces are
received from washing, it is ironed as per the specification i.e. clean press/ flat
press/ only steam or no steam, no iron. These are then reviewed for measurements
and quality. The reports are handed over to master for immediate pattern correction
for bulk.

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4.6. Reports given by pilot department Giving comments and amendments. The QA gives
the following reports: 1. Measurement report (Annexure 4) 2. Pilot comment sheet
(Annexure 5) 3. Amendment sheet (Annexure- 6) 4.7. Pilot decision and Offer The
decision has to be taken by the section head and the QA as to if the pilot is
passed and can be offered to the buyer. If the pilot needs to be redone,
immediately action needs to be taken for pattern amendment, cutting, stitching and
sending for wash. The pieces are offered to the buyer along with all the following:
• • • • • • • Style file PP sample Patterns Shrinkage report Before and afterwash
measurement report. Pilot Comment sheet Amendment sheet.

4.8. Receiving comments from buyer The pilot is offered to the buyer and the
comments given are incorporated into the bulk. The comments regarding workmanship
is explained and discussed in the handover meeting. 4.9. Proceed for bulk The bulk
is proceeded on the basis of the internal and buyer pilot review report.

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5. Industrial Engineering Procedures
5.1 Process Flow The general process flow is as follows: Samples from the planning
department Operation bulletin SMV calculation and setting the targets Thread
consumption Line balancing and operator allocation Line layout plan Process plan

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5.2 Work Measurement. Work Measurement ( Time Study ) is an Integral part in the
Manufacture of Garments. It is utmost necessary for any Manufacturing unit to have
this department in house at full function, As it lends a supportive hand on many
aspects as follows, The provision of standard times for separate operations &
complete process allows better planning for the manufacture of Garment, by
encouraging a conscious numerical analysis before designing operations & process.
This will enable to maintain an improved level of productivity which would enable
to meet Buyers dead lines on a regular manner. This system would enable the
management to segregate its work force in a productive manner which would be an
effect on the CM ( Cut & Making of the Garment ), Where excess & non productive
workers could be utilized for other operations. This system enables the management
for a proper comparison between operations & workers,& the worker productivity.
Time study supplies an essential item of information for making Investment
decisions as well. By working out this system, The management could Invest on Hi-
tech Machinery which would analyze the cost of labor. Work study provides a sounder
basis for Incentive payment schemes to workers, because it allows comparisons to be
made between individual operators on the same task entrusted. 5.3 Time study
procedures. Time study procedure may conveniently be analyzed under four headings..
• • • • • Defining the operation to be timed. Timing each element using a stop
watch. Rating. Allowances or ex gratia Pre Production work Instructions for Work
study Officers.

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5.4. Receive sample from Merchandising Dept. • Analyze the sample & prepare “
Operational Break down”. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Assign required
M/C, Folders, Work Aids, SMV & Target within 8 working hours. Check available work
aids & confirm the availability. Refer “Data Base” to assign SMV. Use “CMA” package
to calculate SMV for new operations which is not in the data base. Calculate the
total SMV for the garment & submit to the merchandising dept within 8 working hrs.
Draw garments tree diagram according to critical path by using the PC. Participate
with the sample room during making of samples to analyze the styling in detail.
Check the practicalities of all operations & ways to minimize operations & M/C.
Prepare “ Critical Operation Analysis” report. Prepare operational lay out plan for
sewing section. Discuss production schedule & manning allocations with Production
Manager. Lay out systems & special technical points. Prepare lay out as per
critical path. Use M/C requirement list for manning, basic pitch time & target
calculation. Check complete lay out with production assistance & discuss with
relevant depts. Submit M/C lay out Mechanic. Participate in “Pre production
meeting”. Analyze workers performance records. Ensure the submitted SMV is achieved
always during production & ways of reducing SMV. The request is received from the
planning department along with the PP sample. The garment is studied and broken
down into individual operations and time is allocated to each operation, based on
which the following are calculated.

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5.4.1. SMV Calculation SMV (Standard Minute Value) calculations are done based on
pre-determined standard motion studies. The Style is being broken in to individual
operations and the time for each operation is determined. The machines used for
completing the style is also determined. The SMVs calculated are listed in a
operation Bulletin and the total target is determined based on the total work-
stations required. Encl: Operation Bulletion-Annexure 7 5.4.2. Thread Consumption
The thread consumption for the garment is calculated based on the operation
breakdown. The factor is multiplied with the length of seam for each operation.
S.No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Type of M/c SNLS DNLS OL(3T) OL(5T) F.O.A
B.H BUTTON BARTACK PINTUCK(PER Stitch) PICOATING KANSAI FLAT-LOCK BLIND STITCH KEY-
HOLE Thread factor/cm 3 6 19 24 14 60 25 30 7 35 14 33 50 Thread Wastage 2 2 3 3 3
NW NW NW 3 3 3 3 2" NW Details of Thread Needle Bobbin 1 1 2 2 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
2 2 2 1 1 Looper Total 2 4 3 5 4 2 2 2 3 6 4 3 2 7

2 3 2

2 4 2 1 1 6

5.4.3. Line Lay-Out (Annexure 8 ) The total floor-layout is drawn to have a proper
process flow for each department from cutting to Finishing. 5.4.4. Technical Lay-
Out (Annexure 9) The technical Lay-out is drawn based on the operation bulletin and
the flow of work process. The allocation of the work-stations is based on the SMVs
and capacity of the operators. The total process flow is drawn and the targets are
set based on the total available work-stations. The technical layout also contains
the type of folders and attachments to be used. Layout for all styles should be
standard.

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5.5. Technical spec detail sheet (Annexure 10) The R & D department should give the
technical spec detail sheet, which contains all the details regarding the style. It
includes the following: • • • • • • • • Order qty Style description Fabric details
Cutting details Sewing details Sewing trims Process flow Special instructions

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5.6. Risk Analysis There are risks associated with manufacturing processes which
can result in failure of the product, either in production or in use by the
customer. Understanding and militating against these risks at the design stage is
fundamental to the success of the product. By assessing the risks sufficiently
early in the design process, delays in production and right first time products can
be achieved. The factory must carry out some kind of Risk Analysis process (e.g. a
meeting which includes members of the key production departments) The factory must
be able to demonstrate that the procedure is understood and can identify potential
risks with raw materials, process methods, equipment, storage, end user safety.
5.6.1 Risk Analysis procedure Quality and safety must be designed, planned and
built into the product. It is sometimes difficult to foresee all the possible modes
of failure allowing for all the conditions of use or indeed misuse. Without a
systematic approach, it is likely that some element will be missed resulting in a
failure and possible injury to the wearer. This risk analysis procedure is designed
to provide that opportunity to identify and forestall those potential hazards. By
examining each design or process in detail and identifying the effects of failure,
together with possible causes, it is possible to propose actions to introduce
controls to reduce the failure rate and/or minimise the impact of a failure. When
considering potential failure it is important to have access to data relating to
failures which occurred on similar components/ assemblies in the past. Risk
analysis should be a team activity relying on input from experienced personnel; a
typical team would consist of design, development, industrial engineer, production
manager and quality manager. The completed risk analysis should then be circulated
to relevant departments with a request for comments. It is important to obtain
feedback from all departments so they may, from their own unique experience, have

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the opportunity to suggest other potential failure modes which the team carrying
out the analysis may not have considered. 5.6.2 Analysis The analysis will consider
all areas of potential failure and establish preventative actions, which may
include special test requirements, inspection recommendations, preventative
maintenance or operational constraints. The analysis starts with the most basic
component and works progressively through the complete system. It is essential to
ensure that every selected component, sub-assembly and design feature within the
product is adequately covered by the analysis. The person responsible for the Risk
Analysis, ideally senior production managers, should ensure that all
recommendations resulting from the analysis are carried out. The Risk analysis is
documented using a standards form, attached, which is designed to guide the team to
ask the correct questions and effectiveness of the analysis will depend of their
accurate completion of this form. The procedure (Annexure 11) 1. Clearly identify
every component being studied, including assemblies and subassemblies. 2. Describe
the purpose of the component or assembly. This is very helpful in identifying the
possible models of failure. 3. Anticipate and describe the possible way the part
could fail. Consider how the failure could be observed. A safety failure must
always be considered more serious than a quality failure. 4. Assume the failure
mode has occurred and then describe what the effect would be in terms of what would
be noticed. The effects noticed both locally and on the whole should be listed.
E.g. the colour bleeds off the product and contaminates accessory. There could be
more than one effect and the same effect could apply to a number of failures. 5.
List every potential cause of failure for each of the failure modes as the design
currently stands. There is a low risk if potential failure is certain to be
detected before the product reached the customer, and high risk of it would be
impossible to detect the potential failure before the product reaches the customer.
In order to improve detection it may be necessary to specify 25
additional controls at an earlier stage so that a potential failure is more easily
detectable. 6. Recommend corrective action. The action required to correct a
possible failure should be clearly stated. If an action has already been taken it
is helpful to record the current status. 7. Identify the most appropriate person
for implementing the recommended action. 8. Document the action taken. In every
case where recommended action is required state what action has been taken to
eliminate the cause of failure, reduce the degree of severity; reduce the
probability of its occurrence.

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6. Fabric & Trim Stores
6.1 Objectives: • • • • • GIR to GRN through put time <7 days. Ensure no short
supply of fabric. Trims before bulk production No stock out on consumables.
Approval of trims to sought before bulk production. Issues of trims to sewing with
2 hours of receipt of the indent.

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6.2 Process Flow Process module fabric stores

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6.3 Pre-Fabric Receive Activities The monthly planner for fabric in-house should
come to the store in-charge with the weekly updates and changes should be
communicated at the very instant of the occurrence. The fabric purchase team should
make sure to in-house the planned initial yardages of the fabric at least before 20
days to carry out pilot run and for bulk maximum 8-10 days. The necessary follow-up
in reading should be done by the store in-charge. If in case fabric is late by the
planned date for receiving then the same should be intimated to the planning,
cutting, and merchandiser so that the necessary priority can be changed and
required follow up can be done. For making the packing slip either of the following
is required. 1. Fabric end bits should be received from the supplier prior to
fabric in-house clearly mentioning the lot no., roll no in reference to their
dispatched rolls and meters. 2. Shade cards (Annexure 12) should be received by the
fabric purchase team and then same should be given to the fabric inspection team.
3. The invoice or Delivery Chalan copy should have a mill /supplier packing slip
having following details: - Roll No., Shade, Meters, Width.

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6.4. Fabric Receive: 6.4.1 Unloading the fabric: Unloading should be done in the
presence of fabric in charge/supervisor and person responsible for fabric receive
as per the stores structure. The supplier invoice or the transporters copy of the
Delivery Chalan should be checked by the fabric in charge and then unloading should
be done in the quarantine area. The bale numbers are counted and cross checked
against the supplier’s packing list while unloading and it is verified by the
fabric receive person. If quantity is less then the transporters is informed and
recorded on collection advice / Invoice / DC. The Invoice copy along with fabric
swatch should be filed in “Daily fabric receive file” and at the end of the day
material inward details should be updated by the fabric receive person. The
information of fabric received against the Purchase No. is informed to the purchase
person and the concerned merchandiser. The packing list should be made which
includes roll no. (Supplier roll no), length, width and shade.

How to unload the fabric

Unloading should be done manually. Maximum of 3 to 4 persons are required in
unloading activity. The unloaded bales from trucks have to be kept on Cart Trolley
by 2 Persons. Two persons will move that loaded cart trolley to the quarantine
area.

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6.4.2 Stacking the bales in quarantine area: Storing of bales has to be done as per
color wise/lot wise by two persons on the wooden palettes. If in the same lot too
much variable meterages are there, and then care should be taken while stacking the
rolls, the bigger value of meters should preferably be kept first and then the
smaller ones. In case of meterage folds the fabric should be staked in linear form
of one above another. All the fabric bales/roles should be stacked in pyramid form
in the quarantine area. The bales should be covered by the plastic sheets. It is
must for meter fold and optional for roll form of fabric because it comes in poly
packing. All lots should have a identification card showing brand name, supplier
name, fabric receive date, fabric code, lot no, color and shade no, invoice qt. and
total rolls. Design Approval: The fabric swatch is taken and sent to the concerned
merchandiser for the design, and face approval (Annexure 13).

6.4.3 Issuing fabric for Inspection

10 % fabric from each lot and shade is offered for fabric inspection. In the above
10% fabric the sample rolls will be decided by the random number generator software
where the number of rolls received will be input by the fabric inspector. The
number of sample rolls will be generated and the same should be taken from packing
slip (S. No.) for inspection. 6.4.4 Shrinkage testing (Annexure 14) The shrinkage
should be tested warpwise and weftwise. The shrinkage testing method is as follows:
1. Take the fabric swatch. 2. Mark 25cm X 25 cm on the fabric in the centre
excluding the selvedge. 3. Cutting Shrinkage (Only for specific fabric types): Cut
the swatch and relax for some time. Measure the swatch again.

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4. Note the fabric shrinkage due to cutting. 5. Sewing shrinkage: stitch the four
sides using 3 thread overlock. Measure. Check for sewing shrinkage. 6. If it is a
wash program, then send for washing. Make sure to use fillers according to the
capacity of the machine. For e.g. for a 5 kg load, if the fabric accounts for half
a kg, the balance capacity should be filled with fabric/ garments. 7. The recipe
should be exact as required for bulk. 8. Finishing/ ironing shrinkage: Depending on
the required Iron/ Press, the swatch is to be steamed/ ironed and then shrinkage is
measured. a. For a non-wash program, the shrinkage will include cutting, sewing and
the ironing shrinkage. b. For a wash program, the shrinkage will include cutting,
sewing, washing and ironing shrinkage. • Depending on the buyer’s requirement, the
sample size for shrinkage can be 10% or 100%. 6.4.5 Keeping the fabric in racks
after Inspection: 1. When the inspection for a particular lot is completed and the
received fabric is “Passed”, the complete lot should be moved to racks width wise.
2. All material movement should be on cart trolley or V-trolley. 3. All the fabric
in the racks should have an identification card (bin card) having brand name,
fabric code, fabric receive date, lot no, total meters and total rolls. Make the
GRN (Goods Receipt Note) for the passed goods (as per bin card) (Annexure 15) All
fabric details like continuity cards, shade cards, lab dip reports, shrinkage
reports buyer wise should be maintained in the fabric quality department. Shrinkage
testing should be done as per the garment wash.

6.5. PACKING SLIP FORMAT

A packing slip received from supplier or maintained by stores/inspection on advance
receives of the bits of the dispatched fabric lot from supplier should follow the
specified format: 32
Roll No.

Shade

Length(Mts)

Width(Cms.)

6.6. Inward fabric Quality checking All the roll color swatches should be
separately received so no need to cut fabric bits from the incoming rolls. If color
swatches are not coming separately or no shade card or shade details on supplier’s
packing slip, then 10 cm wide bit will be cut from each roll. Only 10% inspection
is sufficient if 10% inspection fails then we can go for 20% inspection and above.
Arrange all the roll swatches both Rigid & W/F per shade grouping and get a prior
approval on that from Product Development/Quality Assurance Team & send the same
grouped swatches to merchandiser for approval from buyer. Give the shade details
color wise/ lot wise to fabric In-Charge so that it can be updated in the bin card.

6.7. Fabric Inspection

As we will be doing 10% of inspection. The back feeder should get the 10% roll
details for inspection Color wise/ Lot wise from the Fabric Stores ( fabric
receive) InCharge ,who in turn will give random rolls no. (Based on random
generating software) as described above in issuing fabric for inspection process.
Rolls selected for inspection should be kept in “For Inspection” racks only in
Inspection area. The back feeder with the help of operator should take the rolls
from racks without hitting any point of the rack to avoid any damage to fabric. The
back feeder will take roll to inspection table area. The opened roll should be
gently kept on the back feeding roll of inspection m/c by the back feeder with help
of operator. The open end of the fabric roll should be pulled upwards & to be fed
to the operator. The operator has to measure the skew ness, fabric width (usable
and full width) and other fabric defects noticed during inspection and recorded in
the inspection book

33
(Annexure 16). The points will be awarded on the basis of 4-point system (Annexure
17). The operator has to roll it partially on to the tube and stick cellophane tape
at three/four places of the roll so as to avoid folding. The inspected roll should
be gently kept in the “INSPECTED” rack by the operator with the help of back feeder
after wrapping with the plastic wrap and the wrapped roll should be pasted with a
sticker with the details of roll no., roll length, shade, color and lot no.

6.8. Fabric Issue Fabric stores would receive the initial cut plan (Annexure18)
(specifying the no. of cuts required to complete that order) from CAD department
which clearly mentioned the marker length and width of the fabric. This initial cut
plan would be used to plan the fabric issue. Stores should receive the cutting plan
one day prior to plan cut date. Stores has to issue the fabric along with
travelling work order (Annexure 19) & cut no as mentioned in the table plan the
fabric store will then issue 3% extra fabric over the length required according to
the marker length in the same width as mentioned in the lay sheet. Issuing racks in
the ‘fabric issue’ area of the stores should be divided into table-wise. The fabric
for planned cut should be stored in the specified rack as per the table plan width
wise and shade wise with clear identification of- Brand, WO no, cut no. Meters
issued, width and shade.

6.9. Fabric Issue Procedure to Cutting

This activity is done manually with the help of maximum two to three persons. As
per the plan, all required rolls should be taken out from the concerned rack
associated for that particular table.

34
Preferably all the rolls in the same width should be taken out first and precaution
is taken while keeping on the trolley, as different shades should be kept
separately. Issuing fabric rolls when taken from racks should be kept on issuing
trolleys and then moved to cutting section.

35
7. Cutting
7.1Objective: - To ensure feeding of cut panels to sewing lines in correct quality
& quantity as per schedule.

36
7.2 Process Flow

Process Module Cutting Room

37
7.3 Cutting Plan Weekly Cutting Plan On the basis of the monthly delivery tracker a
cutting plan is made for an entire week, which is reviewed on a weekly basis for
the accomplishment of the plan and on first day of every week a plan versus actual
report is generated for the just concluded week. Daily Cutting Plan On receiving
the packing list and swatch from the stores the CAD department should make a cut
plan of the complete order based on the fabric details (width and shade ) from the
stores, the cut plan (Annexure 20) should mention the marker length, number of
plies to be used in the along with the width of fabric. *The packing list contains
the information of cutable width of fabric along with the meterage of the fabric
available in that width. From the weekly cutting plan a daily cutting plan is made
by keeping WIP status as mentioned in WIP report (Annexure 21) of the assembly
lines in consideration. 7.4 Table Plan The table plan will be generated for the
individual spreader for a day on the basis of the daily cutting plan. The table
plan (Annexure 22) contains information of different cuts for the styles planned on
that day. The Work order will be given to CAD, which will then divide the whole
order quantity into cuts required to clear the complete Work Order quantity and the
markers for the individual cut will be made according to the widths of fabric
available as mentioned in the packing list of the fabric provided by the fabric
stores. These marker length and width will be mentioned on the lay sheet one copy
of this is given to the cutting supervisor second copy will be kept in the CAD and
the third copy of this lay sheet will be given to fabric stores. The cutting plan
for the day will be made considering the cutting WIP status for the sewing lines.
The sewing line having the least WIP will be given the highest priority. Thus the
cuts as mentioned in the lay sheet by the CAD will be selected as per the cutting
plan for the day. The table plan for an individual table will be made and the WO no
& cut no will be written on it.

38
* The cutting plan will be made one day prior to the actual cut date. 7.5
Information sources for cutting planning

7.5.1 Monthly Delivery Tracker

The planning department of the factory prepares the monthly delivery tracker
(Annexure 23); the tracker contains information about different styles that are
going to be manufactured in that specific month in the factory. The information is
under following headings Buyer, Style, Color, Quantity, Delivery Date, PP Status,
Trim Status, Fabric Status, Planned Cut Date, etc.

7.5.2 Production Plan

The planning department of the factory prepares the production plan (Annexure 24);
this plan contains information about the line allocation to the styles to be
manufactured in that specific month in the factory.

39
7.6.

Pattern & Marker Checking Procedure Whenever a style comes into bulk cutting the
hard patterns for bulk production

duly signed and sealed by the pattern master has to be issued to the cutting by the
pattern master. On receiving the patterns these has to measured and the measurement
filled in pattern checking report (Annexure 25) and checked against the
specification sheet and if any discrepancy is found, the same has to be reported
and informed to the pattern master and necessary corrective actions must be taken.
Whenever a style is cut for the first time the marker generated should be checked
against the hard pattern for any possible errors in marker making or printing, one
complete garment patterns of the middle size should be checked. The hard patterns
will be placed on top of the marker at the respective position and the periphery
will be traced and if there is any discrepancy found has to be informed to the CAD
as well as cutting. Stripe marker has to be paired face to face * The Technical
Manager must approve all the markers. 7.7. Marker Ordering The table plan will be
given to the CAD and the CAD will take the print out of the marker on the basis of
Work Order no. & cut no as mentioned in the table plan. The cut that is planned
first will have the highest priority and the subsequent cuts will be lower in
priority. All the markers must be ready on the same day on which the table plan is
given to the CAD. 7.8. Stores Requisition The table plan thus generated in the
previous step will be given to the fabric stores. Based on the WO no & cut no as
mentioned in the table plan the fabric store will then issue 3% extra fabric over
the length required according to the marker length in the same width as mentioned
in the lay sheet.

40
The cut that is planned first will have the first priority and the subsequent cuts
will be lower in priority. All the fabric must be ready on the same day on which
the table plan is given to the fabric stores. 7.9. Mock-ups preparation After the
handover meeting of the style to the production floor, the style requirements as
discussed in the meeting should be converted into the visual standards (Annexure
26) and displayed at all relevant work stations as guide for the work.

7.10. Laying Once the table plan is handed over to the laying batch they will lay
the cuts mentioned in their table plan in the order as per the table plan. The
laying batch must cross check the width and shade while laying and any discrepancy
found should be immediately reported to the laying and cutting supervisor. The
laying batch has to ensure the correctness of no of plies as mentioned in the table
plan. The laying batch also will fill the spreading sheets the quality checker has
to ensure that the spreading sheets (Annexure 27) are being filled properly and
completely. During laying the laying batch has to follow the work instructions as
mentioned in the work instruction sheet for normal table laying (Annexure 28) or
pin table laying (Annexure 29) as the case may be. At the start of the lay the
quality checker has to check for the face side of the fabric and educate the layer
about the same also he has to check for one way fabric and pattern requirement in
garment and instruct the layers accordingly. After the completion of lay he must
check it for quality and must document the same in the lay checking report
(Annexure 30). Defect marking should be done at the laying stage using a contrast
colour fabric stripe. All the drill marks has to be done before cutting panels.

41
7.11. Cutting

Once the laying is complete and quality checker has checked its quality only then
the cutting has to commence. The cutter has to take the spreadsheet and write their
name and sign it in case of straight knife cutting and in case of a lay being cut
on auto cutter a separate log of the cuts being processed by the auto cutter has to
maintained by the auto cutter operator. During the process of cutting the cutter
has to follow the work instructions as mentioned in the work instruction sheet for
straight knife cutting (Annexure 31) or auto cutter cutting (Annexure 32) as the
case may be. In case of block cutting of components or interlining the cutting has
to be done by band knife. For band knife cutting the cutter has to follow work
instructions as mentioned in the work instruction sheet for band knife cutting
(Annexure 33). Pin table should be used for all check fabric cutting.

Ticketing (numbering) should be done on the same cutting table. The cut panel
having contrast colour stripe should be inspected before ticketing for the defects.
7.11.1 Cutting Storage Procedure All the cut components from one cut should be
stored in one baker’s trolley. The cutting helper has to ensure that no mixing of
the parts takes place while placing the cut components in the trolley. The cutting
helper has to pick up cut components from the cutting table in case of straight
knife cutting and from the auto-cutter bed in case of auto-cutter cutting and place
them in an empty baker’s trolley. The work instructions as mentioned the work
instruction sheet for cut component storage (Annexure 34).

7.12. Assorting procedure 42

Numbering Plan A continuous numbering plan (Annexure 35) is made for a Work Order
in that Work Order no two garments will be given the same number. From the lay
sheets a numbering plan is made say sizes were s1 s2 s3 s4 and no of plies were
100. Then s1 will be given number from 1-100, s2 will be given number from 101-200,
s3 will be given number from 201-300 and size s4 will be given number 301-400.

7.13. Bundling
Separate bundles are to be made for following parts Front Front bundle will have
both left and right front, front placket and pocket. Back Back bundle will contain
back panel and both top and bottom yoke. Sleeve Sleeve bundle will have the both
sleeves, top sleeve placket and under sleeve placket. Collar, cuff and neckband
This bundle will have both top and bottom panels of collar, cuff and neckband. The
bundle size to be used is 20-25.

7.13.1 Bundle Cards

Bundle cards are tied to every bundle and these contains following information
Bundle no WO No Style No Cut No Size Qty Serial No The bundle cards are also color
coded such that every size has their unique color of bundle card for easy
identification at all the times. These color codes are mentioned in the bundle card
color code sheet (Annexure 36).

43
7.14. Fusing Procedures Fusing has to be carried out as per the conditions
specified by the interlining supplier, every four hours one sample of the fused
component has to sent for washing and peel bond strength testing and also the
testing of the temp, pressure and time has to be carried out. In case of failure on
any of these all the bundles fused in last 4 hours on that machine has to be
recalled and refused. During fusing the fusing operator has to follow work
instructions as mentioned in the work instructions sheet for fusing (Annexure 37).

Fusing Recall all bundles fused in last 4 hours Wash testing, temperature testing,
pressure testing, time testing

Issue to sewing lines

7.14.1 Testing procedures for fusing Testing procedure for various test mentioned
above are as follows Temperature Using three thermo-paper strips take the
temperature across the width of the press or machine belt. Check and record the
temperature with the recommended speed and fusing time. The press will need to be
adjusted if variation of more than 5°C below or 10°C above the recommended fusing
temperature is recorded. Time Check time with a stopwatch for the actual period for
which temperature and pressure is applied on the fused composite. Washing Carry out
durability wash test daily on the fused components per fabric per color. Peel Bond
Strength Use three strips of fabric, each15x5cms, placed evenly across the belt,
position the interlining to cover the fabric with no overlap

44
Set the recommended fusing conditions for bulk production and allow it to cool.
Conduct peel bond strength test Ensure an even bond and acceptable peel bond
strength before production. Fusing – all Interlining fusing has to be ready
finished(block cut) a. Woven interlining – Sewing allowance to be ¼”. b. Non
fusible woven - ----do--------All the interlining pattern has to be aligned with
shell pattern 1/8" less all around For order size more than 2000 pcs for lining
cutting die should be used.

7.15. Outsourcing Procedure Incase of an outsourced process like embroidery,

printing, etc. keep a style wise record for pieces sent for the outsourced process
and the pieces that are received from the outsource process. When the material
comes back from the outsourced process into the cutting section check it for the
correct pattern or shape of the embroidery or printing. Also check for the
placement of the print/embroidery if it is found correct only then this has to be
loaded to the sewing lines, other wise sort the pieces that are correct and load
only correct pieces to the sewing lines for rest carry out re-cutting and send for
embroidery or printing again. The information of the incorrect pieces has to be
sent to concerned merchandiser as well as the organization that has done that
process. 7.16. Cutting Issue Procedure The planning department makes loading plan,
it contains information about the style no. and quantity to be loaded/ issued to
the sewing line on a particular day. This plan is given a day in advance to the
actual loading date, once the loading plan is received the individual batch leaders
will then make arrangement for making ready the loading for the sewing lines that
they are responsible for. Only the cutting that has been passed by the quality
department can be moved into sewing lines and for the cutting not passed by the
quality department has to be corrected for the defect found in the cutting before
loading it to the sewing lines. The sewing line supervisor must acknowledge the
cutting for quantity by signing on the bundle card at the designated place.

45
All the operators will have to follow the work instructions pertaining to the
operation that he/ she are carrying out.

46
8. Sewing Floor
8.1 Operations Hierarchy:
Flowchart 1: V.P. Operations

Factory Manager

Floor Manager

Floor Manager

Floor Manager

Floor Manager

Floor Manager

Floor In charge …… Line ………. Supervisor Quality controller Line feeder Operators
…….. ……

47
8.2 Process flow for Sewing

48
8.3 Objective: Producing an optimum quality product, setting the process as a
benchmark for the whole garment manufacturing industry.

Floor operations are divided in to 3 parts

8.4 Pre sewing operations: Pre sewing operation includes all the operations, which
are required to be executed in order to make the sewing operation flawless and make
the work flow smooth. 8.4.1 Production planning Production plan is crucial for the
effective planning of resources in order to execute production efficiently.
Production planning includes the allocation of the job to use the resources
available to maximum extent. To achieve the desired level of productivity,
processes should be set as per the following guidelines given by Industrial
Engineering Department • • • • SMV break down for the style Operator allocation
Machine allocation Tech layout (Attachments, folders, machines and other resources)

Any requisition for work aids and machines should reach Maintenance department
before 2 days. And arrangements should be made 1 day prior to the production. To
carry out Bulk production following information should be referred • • Style file
(including PP meeting comments) Approved PP Sample received. Style file and PP
sample must reach the production floor at least before 2 days.

49
Buyer approved PP sample should accompany the Style file. Every production line
must contain 1 approved sample hanging in front of line. Buyer comments sheet
should be hanged with the sample. It should contain the layout of the line to be
set. PP comment sheet, Description of critical points. In any case production must
not be started without the PP sample, style file and production hand over meeting.

8.4.2 Cutting received (Line feeding) • • • • • Cut panels must be received from
the cutting department at least 1 day prior to the production. Cut panels must be
received only when all the cut parts are available. Random checking of bundles must
be done to ensure the proper formation of bundle and cut pieces. Lay plan and
bundle number sheet must accompany the cutting. Feeding helper must keep the record
of all the cutting received and recut parts (Annexure 38). 8.4.3 Trims receiving
and issuing procedures Trims must be issued according to the work order and cut
plan received by the production. In order to prevent any miscommunication the trims
should be issued according to the cut plan. • • • • Trims should be issued 1 day
prior to the production. Trims receiving and issuing records should be maintained.
It must be ensured that all the trims are available before starting bulk
production. In case of, Short or absence of any trim should be resolved by the
production Manager and take the necessary action to resume the production.

50
8.5 Sewing operations
Quality garments are made up through a sequence of operations, which themselves
have, specific and defined levels of quality. The following are individual areas,
which affect end quality and the systems that need to be put in place to control
these areas. These key areas will not only affect quality standards, but also will
also impact on delivery schedules and overall costs. All the template used in
production line should be duly signed by the technical dept. + QC Template: a.
Collar run stitch marking (Metal sheet) template example(metal sheet) b.Collar
assemble templete c.Pocket marking d.Button down marking e.Pocket pressing No
marking should be used for button holes. Button attach marking should be collar
down. Each line should have two checkers for parts and one for assembly. Work
instruction should be displayed at all work stations. 8.5.1 Machine Repair &
Maintenance Each factory must ensure that they keep proper machine repair records
(Annexure 39).A full time team of mechanics must be employed and have a well-
stocked and organized workshop. Machine repair records must exist for each machine
and the summary record are kept in the workshop. The mechanic and head mechanic
must sign it each time that work is carried out. It is also very important that
when new operators start, they are in fact trained properly on not only the basic
workings of the machine’s but daily care procedures as well. All machines must be
cleaned at least twice a day, needle change and broken needle procedures must be
clearly understood. A daily routine must be set up for all operators. Awareness
through good training procedures is the key to ensuring that a level of
understanding exists. Operators need to react to such problems even if they do not
know how to fix them. At the end of the day, you can always deal with reaction. No
reaction on the other hand means that issues and problems will continue.

51
8.5.2 Needle policy The following procedures are particularly designed for Kids
garment production but can also be translated for other products such as knitted
and embroidered fabrics and components where needle are used in production. Pins
that must be used in the laying-up of fabric must be controlled. No other uses of
pins in cutting, assembly, inspection or any other operation where garments or
components are handled are allowed. Pins must, not secure reels of elastic, lace,
bindings etc. They must be eliminated and replaced by tape. Neither pins nor
staples must be used in any part of the factory for other uses such as securing
documents, tickets, pay packets or notice boards. The procedure • No operator shall
be in possession of any needles other than those in the machine being operated, or
that required for the hand operation being performed. • In some cases it may be
necessary for a worker undertaking handwork to have more than one needle in their
possession. In these cases it should be recorded how many needles are issued to
each worker, these must be accounted for at the end of each shift. • • • • All
spare needles shall be held by a supervisor in a secure, locked location. Only the
supervisor shall issue needles to operators. Mechanics must not leave spare needles
with a machine after servicing. If a needle needs replacing through wear the
supervisor will issue a new needle and retain the old one for safe disposal.
Planned regular replacement is recommended. • • Worn needles must be disposed of
into sealed containers away from the factory floor and at intervals securely
disposed of to waste. If a needle breaks all parts must be looked for. Broken
needle fragments must be mounted with clear adhesive tape on a chart and signed by
the line/floor supervisor. Records (Annexure 40) must be kept of needle breakages
by machine type, needle size, operation etc. to establish trends. All record sheets
must be kept for a minimum of 18 months.

52
When all parts are found a new needle can be issued. 8.5.3 Label policy The
following Label policy must be adhered to ensure that correctly labelled -products
are being manufactured. A system for rigid control and issuing of labels is
essential. The procedure 1. On receipt of the contract, check label information
ensure fabric composition, care instructions and all necessary safety instructions
are correct. This must also includes legal responsibilities for character
merchandise. 2. All deliveries of labels must be quarantined and checked against
the contract before being released to trim stores. This inspection should include
random checks for mixed labels within a single box. It is vital to ensure that this
responsibility is given to the trim store manager. 3. The quantity of labels issued
to the production line must correspond with the cutting room documents and be
controlled by the trim stores supervisor. 4. Where labels are date coded, the
oldest must be picked first. 5. Only the correct number of labels must be issued to
the line. This must be no more than the current bundle size. 6. Spare labels must
not be kept by the operator. Any labels not required must be collected and returned
to the trim store. 7. Any additional label requirements must be authorised by the
trim store supervisor e.g. re-makes or repairs. 8. Label insertion must be an
integral part of the product. If labels are required after dyeing, they must be
over-locked to the seam and not lock stitched. 9. Checking of sew-in labels must be
included in end of line inspections. 10. At the final stage of garment inspection,
prior to dispatch, all garment labels must be checked against the UPC tickets and
hanger/ box-end labels. 11. It is also necessary to check outer box labels against
the actual contents prior to sealing of box.

8.5.4 In Line Process Controls The importance of first time quality is the key, in
today’s changing business environment. The ability to turn around quality goods in
a short span of time is

53
essential. With the correct procedures and correct management attitude, this can be
achieved, very successfully. Operation specifications (Annexure 41) play a key part
in the successful implementation of new styles, ensuring that we get quality levels
right first time and not after three or four days of sewing. Each operation that is
set up must have a specification on the machine, which includes details such as; •
• • • Machine type. Needle and Stitch size. Seam width. Thread size and quality.

A detailed description of the operation either by a detailed drawing or by

attaching a mock ups (visual standard). They must be signed by the operator, QC,
supervisor to confirm that they fully understand the requirements. This may seem
like a lot of additional work but the advantages gained from doing this are evident
and immediate. A complete understanding of the requirements and standardization
across additional machines doing the same operation. Immediate understanding by new
operators who have to step in the case of absenteeism. The same would also apply to
in line Q.C.’s. Immediate reference for all operations at each needlepoint. 8.5.5
Quality performance sheets To achieve pre determined productivity levels the level
of quality must firstly be defined and achieved before any operator is issued a
target. To achieve the optimum quality level. • • • • A agreed and signed the Job
Specification , each operator must be trained until the supervisor/technician is
satisfied with his/her out going quality. There must be a visible and dedicated
inline QC for all machines in a line. Each operator must be checked 4 times a day
using a simple, traffic light system and inspecting no more than 10 pieces each
time with fixed quantity. In-line QC and Line supervisor must sign reports daily.

54
•

The monthly summary must be kept at the machine at all times until the end of the
month. After the month is over they can be put into the operator’s performance
file.

It is not up to the Inline QC to fix the problem but to find the problem. Fixing
the problem is the responsibility of the operator, supervisor and technician. Not
only does this act as a control tool but it also acts as a database recording which
operation the operator has been doing and which one they are best at. Therefore in
time it will build up a historic data of individual’s strong and weak operations.

It is important for management to see first time quality as an essential cost

factor. If operations are not set up properly, and work produced continues to be
bad then the additional costs through repairs, seconds, and loss in productivity,
short shipments and delays can be substantial.

8.5.6 Traffic Light Procedures QC inspects 10 garments of an operator. • • • • • •

• No defects- mark card GREEN to go to next operator. ONE defect - mark card
YELLOW, circle defect type# 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 or 8. Inform and show operator fault.
Move to next operator. TWO defects mark card RED, THREE defects mark card BLACK,
circle Defect type# 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 or 8. Inform and show SUPERVISOR of faults.
SUPERVISOR must stay with operator until 20 consecutive (for RED), 30 consecutive
(for BLACK) garments/parts/operation pass. SUPERVISOR initial (Signature) at the
RED/BLACK to indicate 20/30 garments have passed consecutively. If an operator has
consecutive inspection RED, FLOOR MANAGER must be informed to re-train the operator
or take necessary follow up actions. Please indicate this by using BLACK. • If a
high defective rate is found on one particular operation in any one hour at 100%
END LINE inspection, QC must inform LINE SUPERVISOR immediately and not wait until
the end of the day.

55
This system will work very well in reducing repair levels on hourly, daily basis if
used properly. Proper communicating among different inspection stages on defects
found and timely follow up actions is vital.

8.5.7 End line inspections All end line inspections tables must be set up as
follows. • • There must be an approved an approved PP sample that has been checked
by the merchandiser. Proper dedicated tables must be set up. It is unacceptable to
have large tables with many inspectors. This will only lead to people talking to
each other and losing focus on what they are supposed to be doing, or mixing up
good and bad garments. One table one inspector. • • Lighting must be a minimum of
100-foot candles. Along with the approval sample, all relevant paperwork must be at
the inspection table. This must include clear copies of PP sample comments, and a
list of Key points to be checked, during the inspection. • Each inspector must have
a predefined inspection method. If we determine the method then through time the
inspector will know what to inspect and in what sequence. That will allow them to
focus on the overall garment quality and not think about what she has checked and
what she hasn’t. • • • • The inside as well as the outside of the garments must be
thoroughly checked. The method of inspection must be defined at the PP meeting If
there are excessive threads then these must be marked as repairs to ensure that the
problem is in fact rectified. Proper bins must set up to ensure that we are
segregating good garments and bad garments (i.e. Sewing, stains and shading etc,).
Hourly records must be kept, using the END LINE DAILY INSPECTION REPORT (Annexure
42). A repair in and out control is also included in the report, which will enable
the supervisor to ensure that repairs are being repaired and returned, straight
away.

56
• • • •

It is important for management to ensure that all reports are examined hourly to
ensure that the necessary corrective action has taken place. Measurement methods
must be established to ensure that all inspectors are in fact using the same
method. Measurement sheets must be filed properly and must measure at least three
pieces of every size in full, every day across all colors, per auditor. The only
way to measure a garment is in fact with a tape measure. Under no circumstance must
templates be used nor there be any marks on the table. Inspectors will only pull or
push garments to meet specs in this case.

8.6. Post Sewing Operations

8.6.1 Washing • • • • A daily in / out record between factory and laundry should be
maintained to monitor a smooth production flow. All garments should be segregated
by shade lot with proper identification on each garment before sending to laundry
for washing. All garments should be washed by shade lot in the same washing load
for shade consistency. A washing control technician from factory should be sent to
laundry to check the garments from each washing loads to ensure color shade,
washing effect, hand feel and measurements are within customers’ acceptable level.
Anything rejected must be recorded and followed up for correction / improvement
before the next wash • Garments returned from laundry must be firstly checked
against approved shade band, washing effects and hand feel before accepting for
100% final inspection. Anything off approved standard must be rejected and returned
to laundry for re-wash immediately with record. • Daily inspection results from the
washing control technician, control point on accepting garments returned from
laundry and final inspection must be reviewed together. Any issue like garments
shade varies within a washing load, washing defects, broken stitches, over washed,
trims over abraded, bad smell, etc. that needs improvement must be communicated to
parties concerned for immediate improvement. 57
8.6.2 Ironing Procedures: Irons, boilers and presses need as much attention to them
as sewing machines and again there must be planned maintenance programs in place as
well as daily cleaning routines. • Boilers and steam lines must be regularly
checked and cleaned. Stains can arise from areas like this, if they are not cleaned
regularly. Pressing covers must also be regularly changed as spoilage or damp spots
can cause staining. • • • • Teflon shoes must be used on delicate fabrics and
sensitive colors. It is also a good idea to put tension cords on irons to help
eliminate over pressing on garments. Needle boards are recommended to be used on
velvets and corduroys. On Cut and sew it is important that full measurement specs
are available to spot check measurements. It is also a good idea that key areas are
marked up on the pressing tables to ensure that we are controlling sizing issues
and sensitive shape issues. • Materials that contain Lycra need much more care
during the pressing process. Over pressing can cause sizing and fit problems
especially in the hip area. With care and the establishment of proper pressing
methods, issues such as this can be prevented. • Vacuums on the pressing tables
must be used only after the garment has been pressed. It is there to dry the
garments off before packing. Running vacuums in conjunction with pressing will
results in seam impression, glazing and shiny marks and possible color change.
Established pressing standards, must be clearly displayed for all to see and be
available to all as a point of reference. 8.6.3 Final inspection • Final inspection
should be done after all sewing and finishing operations are complete, but prior to
bagging or packaging. It is important that all sewing defects found are logged and
traceable back to the operator who performed the operation. This is an important QC
function that requires organization and good management.

58
•

This is normally possible since at this stage of the process, piece rate or bundle
tickets should still be attached to the budles. The following are recommended
actions for an effective final inspection programme:

Sewing operators should make their own repairs and outside repair station does not
provide incentive for the operator to do it correctly the next time, or to
immediately repair her / his mistakes as they occur

• •

The inside of the garment should be 100% inspected. It may be preferable to perform
this inspection prior to pressing. Critical measurements should be spot checked
frequently by each inspector. This greatly increases the chance of catching a
sizing problem that may have been missed by the in process inspection.

• •

Any non-inspection function, including excessive thread trimming, tagging and

folding, should be separated from final inspection. Cross train and rotate
inspectors whenever possible to help maintain focus and improve overall inspection.
A tired and bored inspector is not a good inspector.

• •

Provide good quality floor mats to stand on and stools for occasional leaning /
sitting to avoid fatigue. Provide well-lit work areas with the necessary room for
good, thorough inspections. Final inspection areas need to meet the JCP
recommendations for proper QC work stations.

• • •

Keep inspection areas clean, organized and remove inspected and defective garments
frequently. Evaluate performance, provide necessary training and encourage improved
inspections. For the purpose of operator (and inspector) performance evaluation and
corrective action, detailed records by defects and by operator, should be kept.
These results should be combined with the in process audit results to determine the
true performance of each operator, over an appropriate period of time. Detailed
record keeping in your Final (100%) Inspection area will indicate specific trends
with certain operations, products and operators. This important information allows
you to take necessary prevention action steps for future production.

59
8.6.4 Packing • Packing standard & instruction should be available within packing
section. Garments must be packed into poly-bag & cartons according to size / color
ratio as per the packing instruction. • • Packing mock ups should be there in
packing department so as to be used as reference. Packing list should be available
with the buyer approved packing procedure.

8.6.5 Pre-final quality audits

There has to be a separate Factory QA team, who conducts in-process audits & final
audits on finished goods daily. They must report daily to the factory manager on
the results of these inspections. When the products are continuously produced in
high volume or require detailed packaging, the final auditing can be done before
packaging. If the sample audit fails, the merchandise can be re-inspected more
efficiently, without destroying packaging material and wasting labour. If this
approach is taken, regular daily audits should be made on packaged stock, to
prevent packaging problems. These units inspected for packaging need not be opened
and inspected for workmanship, if all were part of passed Final Quality Audit
(Annexure 43).

8.6.6 Order Closing Report (OCR)

After shipment of goods, the OCR should be made within a day which includes the
order quantity, cut quantity, shipped quantity, balance break-up (seconds break-up)
so that the party responsible for the production loss can be debited.(Annexure 44)

60
9. Quality Assurance
9.1 QUALITY POLICY

MADURA GARMENTS EXPORTS LTD. is committed to comply with requirements and

continuosly improve the Quality management system and supply high quality garments
on time to enhance customer satisfaction through training and involvement of
employees.
9.2 QUALITY OBJECTIVES

1. 2.

To increase the Production from the existing level every year. Continuous
improvement a) Productivity b) Waste elimination c) House keeping To make employees
multiskilled through training and development. To maintain and improve Workorder
throughput time To reduce seconds percentage

3. 4. 5.

61
9.3 Quality checkpoints

Fabric& Trims status

Sampling Plan

NOT OK
Check trims& fabric as per sampling RTS

OK Quality passed trims and fabric

Issue to Cutting

Visual inspection passed fabric according to sampling plan

Laying

NOT OK OK
Style descriptions, Fabric code, W.O. no, Design approval, Fabric one way or two
way?

Visually identify the problems and check for the following points in the laying
process

Quality check at the beginning of the lay

Cad checking against master copy, marker length & width, proper scrambled sizes,
all parts in marker, Line balancing?

Re-do

Check for the first ply.

Shade, width-wise lay,

NOT OK
Re-do

Waviness, Bowing?

OK
Marker placement, Line balancing, No. of plies?

NOT OK
Re-do

Quality check in between lay

Is W.O .no, size, central line, notches, straight line, repeat width, Line
balancing, pairing, shade ok

OK

ReRe-Do Re-Do -Do Re-Do

After laying Check Check forW.O for W,O no,weaving defect,Style no,bubbling,Fus Is
W.O.no,Centre verification,Centre Is Issue of Quality W.O.no,size,parts 62 ed
line,Repeat,Balancing,St notch,Fabric parts to bundleno,numbering,lay
thread,Stain,lini passedQuality cut line,one way okay? Damage,pairing,shape,St no
okay? ng sewing check
Is line, NOT OK W.O .no, size, central Line notches, straight line, repeat width,
balancing, pairing, shade ok Re-do

NOT OK

Check the following points at the start and end of cutting process.
Is W.O .no, size, parts, bundle no, numbering, lay no okay?

Re-do

NOT OK OK
Re-do Is W.O. no., Centerline, Repeat, Balancing, St line, one way okay?

cut parts; check the following points during bundling.

NOT OK OK Quality Check in relay (if check/stripes)

Check for W.O. no., weaving defect, Style verification, Center notch, Fabric
damage, pairing, shape, St line

Re-do

NOT OK
Quality check during fusing

Parts inspection check OK

Check for W.O no, bubbling, Fused thread, Stain, lining Re-do

Quality check during fusing

NOT OK

OK

Issue of Quality passed cut parts to sewing

Quality parts

approved

cut

63
Display of reference shirt with comments & receive information for checking

Re-Work

NOT OK
Check point 1 Collar inspection

In- line inspection by Traffic light System Collar visual Standard, measurement
collar

Re-Work

OK NOT OK

Check point 2 front pairing OK Check point3 trimming & inspection

Re-Work

Left and right front parts. Visual standard, measurement

NOT OK

Re-Work

NOT OK

OK End Line AQL Audit at AQL 2.5 OK Release to finishing

Assembled shirt, Measurement, visual Standard.

Seconds & alterations NOT OK Checkpoint 4 Final Inspection Identify first quality
seconds and rejects NOT OK Trolley wise AQL audit (2.5) OK Folding & Packing &
Folding Packing 64
R E J C T S Offer for final inspection

OK AQL Pre Final Audit/ Finished Stock Audit (10%, 25% and 50%) NOT OK

OK ACCEPT

Release to Warehouse

65
9.4 Quality Procedures

9.4.1 Fabric Inspection Report

No sooner Fabric is in house, The Fabric inspection report, Shrinkage report & 100%
Shade bands should be submitted within 48 hours. Fabric is to be cut only after the
above reports are submitted & only if they are approved for bulk production.
Initially 10% of the Fabric is to be inspected on a 4 point system & if the fabric
is in doubt, further 10% should be Inspected. While submitting the Fabric
Inspection reports, all trim inspection reports should be submitted too. If Fabric
is cut without been Inspected, Total responsibility will be on this department as
it is a violation of a critical aspect. The below reports should be submitted to
Buyers & the relevant Merchandiser.

Fabric Inspection. ( Inspection on 4 point system ).

Purpose: To decide acceptance or rejections of fabric roll ( For Wovens )

Activity 1. Take the roll. 2. Check the roll as per 4 points system. 3. Give
penalty points for defects.

Requirement Roll to be chosen at random

Points / 100 sq. yd. 4. Calculate index for each individual roll. 5. Calculate
final average index for the total no. of rolls inspected. 6. Decide acceptance or
rejectance of the fabric Record: Fabric inspection report Classification

Total points in roll * 36 * 100 Total length in yards * width in inches.

PENALTYPOINTS

66
1 point Faults showing in the warp direction of fabric. ( Holes and tears
excepted ). Faults showing in the weft Less than direction of fabric. (Weave
stripes, weft irregularities, holes and tears are excepted). 3inch. Less than
3inch.

2 points

3 points

4 points

Over 3 inch Over 6 inch Over 9 inch. but less than but less than 6 inch. 9 inch.

Over 3 inch Over 6 inch Over 9 inch. but less than but less than 6 inch. 9 inch.

i). Length of the faults is to be measured in the warp or weft direction and the
direction in which the fault is longest is the fault direction. However when the
warp and weft length are same and when the penalty of the shorter direction is
heavier, take the fault of the direction in which the penalty is heavier. ii). When
the fault in the warp direction is over 1yd, the part which is over 1yd is deemed
as fault of the same kind of others. iii). When two or more faults overlap, apply
only the faults which penalty is the heaviest. iv). When there are two or more
faults within the length of 1yd and the penalty points come over 4 points, the
points over 4 points are not added. v). The inspector needs to be at a distance of
3 feet away from the inspection table and the linear speed of inspection not to be
less than 0.1mtrs per second. Minimum fault sizes are shown on the Sears Fabric
defect scale :Knots A – do not count B- Count as 1 point C- Count as 1 point D-
Count as 1 point E- Count as 3 points Slubs A - do not count B - do not count C-
Count as 1 point D- Count as 1 point E- Count as 1 point F- Count as 3 points

67
G- Count as 3 points Standards for Passing Fabric:Average index for inspected rolls
not to exceed » 28 points / 100yd². Maximum index for any roll not to exceed » 40
points / 100yd².

9.4.2 100% Shade Bands.

If the style is a wash garment, Before & after wash Blankets should be submitted
( 3 sets each ) covering all rolls and it has to attached in the shade continuity
card (Annexure 12) A 100% shade band covering all rolls & all colors pertaining to
a certain style / Consignment should be made & approved prior to cutting of bulk
Fabric. Process. • • • • • No sooner the Fabric is in house, The Q/A department
must ensure they get the panels representing all rolls within 6 hours from Stores.
Cut 6” from end of each roll. Over lock & join all panels in correct grain line
direction to be in a Blanket form. If the Style is a non-wash program, Two sets
should be prepared. If the Style consists of a certain wash, Then 4 Blankets should
be prepared. 02 Blankets non-washed & 2 Blankets with the exact approved wash of
the style. Once the Shade bands are ready, Dye lot or color segregation has to be
done. If the Shade Band consists of 2-3 different shades, Such shades should be
segregated in to families marked A,B,C Etc. A copy of the Segregation of shades
should be handed over to the Stores, Cutting, Merchandising & Production
departments. • Stores will issue & the cutting / Production will proceed as per the
segregated shades without getting mixed.

68
9.4.3 Shrinkage report
A 10% Shrinkage report should be submitted for all styles and the washing shrinkage
has to be performed as per the wash type required for the bulk.

9.4.4 Trim Inspection report

All trims been In house should be inspected ( 10% ) & the reports submitted
accordingly.

Trims Inspection
Purpose: To check defects and to decide Acceptance / Rejectance of trims. Scope:
Interlining, Collar bone, Label, Button, Packing Materials, Swing Ticket, Poly bag,
Product box. Activity A. Interlining 1. ½ meters of lining to be sent to lab. a.
Bond strength 1.Take 10” * 4” of fabric strip and lining strip. 2.Cut rectangular
slit 6”*1” in Tissue paper of 8 ‘ * 4”. 3.Sandwich Tissue paper between interlining
and fabric then fuse. 4.Check Pull strength. If by varying fusing conditions
sufficient strength is not achieved the lot is rejected. b. Shrinkage Test. 1. Send
two collar to lab every day for shrinkage test. c. Visual Inspection 1. Select the
roll as per sampling plan. Reject the lot is not ok. Check for uniformity, micro
dots, uniformity of shade. EPI / PPI and GSM Note the temperature, pressure and
speed. Requirement

Pull strength to be atleast 1 kg / sq.cm.

Record : Interlining Inspection report. 69

Activity B. Labels a. Visual Examination 1.Check lettering , color, edges as per
the Master and Specifications.

Requirement

No weaving defects. Shade continuity. Smooth and straight edges. Centered labels.

b. Color fastness test 1. Take few labels get it stitched on the white fabric. 2.
Wash with soap and wash petrol. If color bleeds rejects the lots.

No color bleeding.

Note: Selection Of all trims for the inspection to be as per sampling plan.
Activity C. Buttons 1. Check buttons for shade, chip around the edge. 2. Get
stitched 10 buttons breaks stitched in machine. 3. If any one button breaks, then
check for 10 more buttons. If there is breakage reject the lot. D. Packing Material
1. Check edges, slots and slot spacing. Even edges for all the trims. Slots and
Slot spacing as per the specifications. Requirement Uniform in shade, gauge. No
chip. NO breakage No breakage.

70
Activity E. Swing ticket 1. Inspect visually the lettering. F. Product Box 1.Check
for lettering, hinge, marks and color. G. Polycovers 1. Check for lettering,
uniformity and scratches.

Requirement No stains and misprints.

No misprints and spread hues

No misprinting and spread hues. Shade continuity to be maintained.

H. Collarbones 1.Check for edges and points. 2.Stick few collarbones on fabric to
check for glue. If gum is insufficient, reject the lot.

No cut edges, point to be as per specification. Should fix firmly to the fabric.

Record: Trims inspection report. 9.5 Size set Bulk production cannot be started
without the QA Department approving the Size set for each new style. Once the size
set is approved, The Pattern should be checked & authorized by this department for
utilization. 9.6 PP Meeting A PP meeting should be organized & conducted prior to
bulk production including Buyer’s Representative, Merchandiser, Production Manager
& all sectional heads, Supervisors & Q/C’s involved with the particular style. No
Production is to start without a PP Meeting & all points to be discussed &
documented in the PP meeting format (Annexure 45). The QA Manager or the Technical
Manager should write

71
down the minutes & file the PP meeting comments in the style file “ Technical,
Quality, Packing, Washing, Shipping ETC”. 9.7 Pilot Run Once the Production submits
the Pilot run, Bulk production should be approved based on the performance of this
cut. If it is not satisfactory, a new pilot run should be made. 9.8 Test to failure
9.8.1 Purpose Testing mock up pieces (36) to demonstrate consistency in fabric,
threads, machinery. The test pieces are pulled with a force until they are
destroyed establishing the kilograms at which they are break apart. Results
details- are recorded as = Z factor. Where there is a consistent result the Z
factor will be 4 or above – Pass. Where there is inconsistency the Z factor will be
less than 4 – Fail. 9.8.2 Importance These tests and the documentation are our
evidence of the control to ensure the product we make is safe. It also allows us to
identify if there is any inconsistency which we need address to improve the product
safety.The TTF results are required to accompany the master style file and should
be discused at the time of hand over meeting. 9.9 Pull Tests 9.9.1 Purpose To
ensure the application is button, stud, snap can withstand a set kilogram of
pulling. The recommendations are specified by our customer at 7 kg per single pull
but as a safe guard MGEL recommend our procedure is pulled at 8 kg. 9.9.2
Importance To ensure the application can withstand the desired amount of strain in
normal wearing conditions. 5 Pcs randomly must be monitored closely due to product
safety. 9.10 Durability Wash 9.10.1 Purpose This wash test is carried out in the
laboratory to ensure the garments construction is robust (strong). The laboratory
test highlights any change to the following areas: Seam breakdown, fused
components, change to colour appearnace, optical brightner and fabric handle,
effects on accessories, colour fastness, pleat sharpness and any

72
wadding. The wash is carried out at 10 degrees higher than the recommended label
wash tempreture. The laboratory also need a garment reference- for the pre-wash
inspection and then the after wash inspection. 3 garments minimum requirement.
9.10.2 Importance To ensure all our methods, fabric and trim accessories are
suitable to the style and will perform over numerous times of wear. To prevent
customer returns and customer dissatisfaction. 9.11 Quality procedures in cutting
department. • • • • • • • • Rolls segregated & laid as per shade band separation.
Relaxation of Fabric for Stretch & Knit at least for 12 Hours and fabric relaxation
report maintained (Annexure 47) Fabric Width. Checking of Marker lay out. Control
of Layers as per Fabric construction. Checking of Panels against pattern board
after cutting. Random check of panels for Fabric flaws. Fusing parameters like
temperature, pressure and time are controlled at fusing machines periodically and
recorded in fusing quality report (Annexure 48) to ensure optimum bond strength.

73
9.12 Quality Control Quality control on the product, Packing & stacking should be
maintained at the highest level. A full functional traffic light system (Annexure
46) should be maintained at all times. Statistical process controlling ( SPC )
should be implemented for every line to minimize rejections. No Garment should be
passed with inferior quality & rectification to be made with immediate effect &
documented. 9.13 Traffic Light System. This System is a very affective approach in
curtailing & discontinuing defected panels & garments with discrepancies from
moving in the Line. There are three colors to identify the progress of the operator
& the quality. Green, Amber & Red bag with the Instructions of Operation
descriptions to be audited. * Green – If this color is flagged by the Line Q/C on
top of a machine, It indicates that the Operation is under control & of good
standing & could proceed to the next operation or machine. * Amber - If this color
is flagged, It high lights that the Operation produced by the Operator is in a
tolerance margin & needs close observation from Superiors. * Red – If the Line Q/C
has flagged this color on top of a machine, You should halt the machine & the
operation immediately & rectify same without any delay & ensure the productivity is
not affected. In the same time the Line Q/C must record Instruction paper what is
in color bag & her operation file to follow up & same Q/C will issue a Pink token
to the Supervisor to rectify same & to follow up in three consecutive instance’s in
the same Operation ( To Ensure 0 defects are maintained in a particular Operation)
& cross check with the Q/A. •The roaming Q/C must continue for each & every machine
Incorporating the same process in the Line ( Not more than 32 machines per line ),
Minimum four times a day. •Each Line Q/A dept should have two “In process Audit
stations” for 100% components check with the defect statistics (In line Inspection
report Annexure 42)

74
maintained which could be analyzed hourly on each Operation to rectify prior to a
Assembling Garments. •Each end Line should have a QA Audit station performing 100%
Inspection of Garments prior to moving to the next Process & the Defects to be
maintained in the “ Defect Analysis Report”(Annexure 43). No inline & end line
checkers should have trimmers. 9.14 AQL Audit. Apart from the 100% Inspection at
End Line, The Q/A Dept should Audit the Merchandise randomly to ensure the Quality
standard set by “MGEL”. Each Auditor should cover 5 Production lines & every hour
as per the given AQL (Appendix 43). If the Standard is acceptable as per the below
stipulated table, The Goods can be processed for the next Operation. However if the
Merchandise is not up to the required Criteria, Total Qty should be returned back
to the Production Line for immediate rectification & the same Auditor should
closely Monitor until the rectification is complete. You have to strictly adhere to
maintain an AQL level of 1.5 during Inline Inspections. 9.15 Random Measurement
Audit. The QA dept should inspect measurements of Garments randomly covering all
styles, Color & Sizes to ensure the Merchandise is meeting the required
Specification before & After wash. (Annexure 4)

9.16 Pre Final Audit Prior to handing over merchandise for final Audit to Buyers,
the Q/C department should do an interim Inspection & submit copies of the reports
to the G/M Production & marketing, Production Manager & the relevant Merchandiser
for each P/O. This is Mandatory. A count & accuracy report should be submitted as
well. 9.17 Outgoing Quality Level All the external audit reports should be compiled
into one final report with the defect penalty points will expressed as percentage
of total defectives found over the total quantity shipped out for that month. Also
a report of total external audits failed over total external audits faced in that
month should also be prepared.(Annexure 50)

75
9.18 Reports All inspection in Production & finishing should be daily documented by
using Inline reports & a copy of these reports should be submitted to the relevant
Merchandiser at least twice a week without fail.

9.19 Samples The QA Department should submit the following samples, T.O.P – Within
3 days of bulk input as per buyers required size & Shipment samples as per buyers
requirement, one day before final audit. This should be strictly adhered to. i) It
is mandatory that all Line Quality Supervisors & controllers should patrol their
respective lines on a daily basis prior to starting bulk production in the morning
to ensure that the Line is geared to Produce high quality Apparels. * The following
aspects should be taken in to awareness, a) Cleanliness of the Floor – No Garments,
Dust, Stickers, Stains etc to be on floor. b) Cleanliness of Machines – 1) Well
cleaned without any dust. 2) Oil level & Stains on M/C to be checked. 3) Needles to
be checked & should be fluff free & not blunt. 4) Any M/C with “Red” flags on & if,
Mechanic to be questioned. c) Check for Reject Garments – No Reject garment is to
be brought forward from the previous day without been rectified. All Reject
Garments should be rectified on the same day & not kept separately inside the line.

76
List of Annexure
SL NO DOCUMENT CODE DESCRIPTION ANNEXURE 1 MGEL-SP01 SAMPLING INDENT ANNEXURE 2
MGEL-RD01 PILOT LOADING PLAN ANNEXURE 3 MGEL-RD02 PILOT CUTTING LOG BOOK ANNEXURE 4
MGEL-RD03 PILOT MEASUREMENT REVIEW SHEET ANNEXURE 5 MGEL-RD04 PILOT COMMENT SHEET
ANNEXURE 6 MGEL-RD05 AMMENDMENT SHEET ANNEXURE 7 MGEL-IE01 OPERATION BULLETIN
ANNEXURE 8 MGEL-IE02 LINE LAYOUT ANNEXURE 9 MGEL-IE03 TECHNICAL LAYOUT ANNEXURE 10
MGEL-RD06 TECHNICAL STYLE DETAIL SHEET ANNEXURE 11 MGEL-RD07 RISK ANALYSIS FORMAT
ANNEXURE 12 MGEL-ST01 SHADE CARDS ANNEXURE 13 MGEL-ST02 DESIGN APPROVAL CARD
ANNEXURE 14 MGEL-QA01 FABRIC SHRINKAGE EVALUATION SHEET ANNEXURE 15 MGEL-ST03 BIN
CARD ANNEXURE 16 MGEL-QA02 FABRIC INSPECTION BOOK ANNEXURE 17 MGEL-QA03 4-POINT
SYSTEM FOR FABRIC INSPECTION ANNEXURE 18 MGEL-CT01 CUT PLAN ANNEXURE 19 MGEL-ST04
TRAVELLING WORK ORDER ANNEXURE 20 MGEL-CT02 MONTHLY PLAN ANNEXURE 21 MGEL-CT03 WIP
REPORT ANNEXURE 22 MGEL-CT04 TABLE PLAN ANNEXURE 23 MGEL-PL01 MONTHLY DELIEVRY
TRACKER ANNEXURE 24 MGEL-PL02 PRODUCTION PLAN SHEET ANNEXURE 25 MGEL-QA04 PATTERN
CHECKING REPORT ANNEXURE 26 MGEL-QA05 CUTTING VISUAL STANDARDS ANNEXURE 27 MGEL-
CT05 LAY SPREADING SHEET ANNEXURE 28 MGEL-CT06 NORMAL TABLE LAYING INSTRUCTION
SHEET ANNEXURE 29 MGEL-CT07 PIN TABLE LAYING INSTRUCTION SHEET ANNEXURE 30 MGEL-
QA06 LAY CHECKING REPORT ANNEXURE 31 MGEL-CT08 WORK INSTRUCTION FOR STRAIGHT KNIFE
CUTTING ANNEXURE 32 MGEL-CT09 WORK INSTRUCTION FOR AUTO CUTTING ANNEXURE 33 MGEL-
CT10 WORK INSTRUCTION FOR BAND KNIFE CUTTING ANNEXURE 34 MGEL-CT11 WORK INSTRUCTION
FOR CUT COMPONENET STORAGE ANNEXURE 35 MGEL-CT12 NUMBERING PLAN ANNEXURE 36 MGEL-
CT13 BUNDLE COLOR CODE SHEET ANNEXURE 37 MGEL-CT14 FUSING WORK INSTRUCTION SHEET
ANNEXURE 38 MGEL-SW01 CUT PART RECIEPT SHEET ANNEXURE 39 MGEL-SW02 MAINTAINANCE
CARD ANNEXURE 40 MGEL-SW03 NEEDLE POLICY FORMAT ANNEXURE 41 MGEL-SW04 OPERATION
SPECIFICATION ANNEXURE 42 MGEL-SW05 ENDLINE ALTERATION REPORT ANNEXURE 43 MGEL-SW06
PRE FINAL AUDIT REPORT ANNEXURE 44 MGEL-SW07 ORDER CLOSING RECORD ANNEXURE 45 MGEL-
QA07 PP MEETING FORMAT ANNEXURE 46 MGEL-QA08 TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM ANNEXURE 47 MGEL-
QA09 FABRIC RELAXATION SHEET ANNEXURE 48 MGEL-QA10 FUSING QUALITY REPORT ANNEXURE
49 MGEL-QA11 DEFECT ANALYSIS REPORT ANNEXURE 50 MGEL-QA12 SAMPLING PLAN AQL

77
ANNEXURE 51 MGEL-QA13

OUTGOING QUALITY LEVEL

78