Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

St. Petersburg
No. 115, June-July 2018

World Cup 2018

Special football guide to all
the host cities inside p. 67

Best tours in St. Petersburg p. 45

Suburbs and Royal Residences p. 48
N°115

inyourpocket.com
 Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword 4
Metro Map 5
City Map 6
Street register 8

City Basics 9
Arriving & Getting Around 10
Language 11
What’s on 12
Summer festivals 12
Concerts 15
Exhibitions 16

Russian Football 20
Russian Cuisine 24
Restaurants 26
Russian 26
Asian 28
Caucasian 29
Fine dining 30
Fish and seafood 30
International 31
Rooftop terraces 32
Italian 33
Steaks and burgers 33
24 hours 33
Vegetarian 34
Wine restaurants 34

Nightlife 35
Night clubs 36

Sightseeing 38
The essentials 38
Russian Museum 40
Churches 41
Viewing points 41
Museums 41

Tours 45
Islands 48
Suburbs 50
Hotels 61
Shopping 63
Expat & Lifestyle 65
Special edition: WORLD CUP 2018 67

www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket June - July 2018 3

 Foreword Metro map
Football. Voetbal. Futbol.
Futebol. Fußball. Fotboll. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Футбол. No other sport founded and published by OOO
comes close to matching Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. ПАРНАС ДЕВЯТКИНО
Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, PARNAS DEVYATKINO
the worldwide passion for ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A,
this beautiful game. It is the tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, ПР. ПРОСВЕЩЕНИЯ СТАНЦИИ ПЕРЕСАДОК
PR. PROSVESHCHENIA ГРАЖДАНСКИЙ ПР.
№1 sport played in every russia@inyourpocket.com, GRAZHDANSKY PR. INTERCHARGE STATION
corner of the planet, and russia.inyourpocket.com
ОЗЕРКИ
General Director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com OZERKI
the FIFA World Cup is the Editor-in-Chief Ksenia Elzes, ksenia@inyourpocket.com АКАДЕМИЧЕСКАЯ
biggest and most-watched AKADEMICHESKAYA
Web Editor Irina Romanchenko, editor.russia@inyourpocket.com КОМЕНДАНТСКИЙ ПР. УДЕЛЬНАЯ ЛИНИИ МЕТРО
sporting event in the world. Design Malvina Markina, design.russia@inyourpocket.com KOMENDANTSKY PR. UDELNAYA METRO LINES

The World Cup can turn Sales Director Ilya Timshin, ilya.timshin@inyourpocket.com ПОЛИТЕХНИЧЕСКАЯ
БЕГОВАЯ ПИОНЕРСКАЯ POLITEKHNICHESKAYA
Contributors СТАРАЯ ДЕРЕВНЯ ЖЕЛЕЗНОДОРОЖНЫЙ
players into legends. Think about Brazil’s Pele, who won Maria Stambler, John Bills, Oya Akdogan, Elena Bobrova BEGOVAYA STARAYA DEREVNYA PIONERSKAYA
ВОКЗАЛ
three World Cups or Argentina’s Diego Maradona and Customer Service Manager ЧЕРНАЯ РЕЧКА ПЛ. МУЖЕСТВА
TRAIN STATION
his infamous “Hand of God”. Even people who are not Tanya Kharitonova, sales.russia@inyourpocket.com CHERNAYA RECHKA PL. MUZHESTVA
interested in sports know those names. Why? Because Copyright notice: text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya АВТОБУСНАЯ СТАНЦИЯ
Shapka 2003-2018. All rights reserved. No part of this publication НОВОКРЕСТОВСКАЯ BUS STATION
football is much more than just a sport - for hundreds may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the pur- NOVOKRESTOVSKAYA КРЕСТОВСКИЙ О-В
ЛЕСНАЯ
LESNAYA
of millions of people it is the ultimate cultural expres- pose of review, without written permission from the publisher and KRESTOVSKY OSTROV
АЭРОПОРТ
sion, the universal language if you will. As the famous copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under ПЕТРОГРАДСКАЯ
AIRPORT
license from UAB In Your Pocket. PETROGRADSKAYA ВЫБОРГСКАЯ
former Liverpool manager Bill Shankly once said, “Some VYBORGSKAYA
Editor’s note: the editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is ЧКАЛОВСКАЯ
people believe football is a matter of life and death, I am independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ CHKALOVSKAYA
РЕЧНОЙ ВОКЗАЛ
very disappointed with that attitude. I can assure you it comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure СПОРТИВНАЯ ПЛ. ЛЕНИНА RIVER PORT
is much, much more important than that”. the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and SPORTIVNAYA ГОРЬКОВСКАЯ PL. LENINA
ПРИМОРСКАЯ GORKOVSKAYA
Everybody has been waiting for this for the last four years assume no responsibility for changes and errors.
PRIMORSKAYA ЧЕРНЫШЕВСКАЯ
© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket
and now it is finally here. The FIFA World Cup 2018 comes © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl CHERNYSHEVSKAYA
to Russia! With no doubt June and July will be all about the Cover: Photo by Alexander Petrosyan, www.aleksandrpetrosyan.com ВАСИЛЕОСТРОВСКАЯ ГОСТИНЫЙ ДВОР
VASILEOSTROVSKAYA
football, and we aren’t about to miss out on the party. The Published 5 times per year with supplements, GOSTINY DVOR
guide you are holding in your hands is very unique, as be- № 115, 01.06.2018, 50.000 copies.
НЕВСКИЙ ПР. ПЛ. ВОССТАНИЯ ПЛ.
Л. АЛ. НЕВСКОГО
Н I
For children aged 16 years and over. NEVSKY PR.
sides all the useful and interesting information on what to АДМИРАЛТЕЙСКАЯ
PL. VOSSTANIYA PLL. AL. NEVSKOGO
N I
МАЯКОВСКАЯ ПЛ. АЛ. НЕВСКОГО II
ПЛ
do and to see in St. Petersburg, you will also find special ADMIRALTEISKAYA СЕННАЯ ПЛ. MAYAKOVSKAYA PL. AL. N
P NEVSKOGO II
SENNAYA PL.
pages dedicated to all the eleven host cities. St. Petersburg in Your Pocket / Отпечатано ООО “МДМ-ПЕЧАТЬ”,
We’d like to thank everybody who helped making this Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане 188640, Ленинградская область, САДОВАЯ Д
ДОСТОЕВСКАЯ ЛИГОВСКИЙ ПР.
Учредитель и издатель: г. Всеволожск, Всеволожский SADOVAYA DOSTOEVSKAYA LIGOVSKY PR.
publication, not only our local team, but the whole In Your ООО “Красная Шапка” пр-кт, д.114. Заказ № 15-18. СПАССКАЯ ВЛАДИМИРСКАЯ
Pocket family. We hope this tournament will unite people Адрес редакции и издателя: Свидетельство о регистрации SPASSKAYA VLADIMIRSKAYA НОВОЧЕРКАССКАЯ
Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург средства массовой информации NOVOCHERKASSKAYA
from all over the world and remind us how amazing it is Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. ПИ № ТУ78-01705 от 13.05.15
ТЕХНОЛОГИЧЕСКИЙ ИНСТИТУТ I
TEKHNOLOGICHESKY INSTITUT I ЕЛИЗАРОВСКАЯ
to be able to enjoy a beautiful game, without war, without тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 выдано Федеральной службой ELIZAROVSKAYA
Главный редактор: Ксения Элзес по надзору в сфере связи, ПУШКИНСКАЯ
politics, without borders. Цена свободная. информационных технологий ТЕХНОЛОГИЧЕСКИЙ ИНСТИТУТ II PUSHKINSKAYA
TEKHNOLOGICHESKY INSTITUT II ЗВЕНИГОРОДСКАЯ ЛАДОЖСКАЯ
Let’s celebrate it! Для читателей старше 16 лет. и массовых коммуникаций
ZVENIGORODSKAYA LADOZHSKAYA
Тираж 50 000 экз. №115. (Роскомнадзор).
Ksenia Elzes, Editor-in-Chief 01.06.2018
ФРУНЗЕНСКАЯ ЛОМОНОСОВСКАЯ
БАЛТИЙСКАЯ FRUNZENSKAYA LOMONOSOVSKAYA
BALTISKAYA ОБВОДНЫЙ КАНАЛ
OBVODNY KANAL
МОСКОВСКИЕ ВОРОТА ПР. БОЛЬШЕВИКОВ
ABOUT IYP НАРВСКАЯ
MOSKOVSKIE VOROTA
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4 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket June - July 2018 5

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 Street register City Basics
1-28-ya liniya B-2,3/C-2,3 Konnogvardeysky bul. C-3 Rubinshteina ul. E-3
BE ON GUARD!
Admiralteisky pr. D-3 Kovensky per. E-2 Ryleeva ul. E-2
02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and
Alexandra Nevskogo most F-3 Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul. F-2 Sadovaya ul. E-2,3 don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the English
Angliskaya nab. C-3 Kronverkskaya nab. D-2 Sampsonievsky most D-1 language tourist helpine 8 800 303 05 55 and (+7)
812 303 05 55.
Anichkov most E-3 Kronversky pr. D-1 Sapyorny per. E-2
Arsenalnaya nab. E-2 Kutuzova nab. D-2/E-2 Shpalernaya ul. E-2/F-2 The Tourist Information office, ul. Sadovaya 14, can
Bakunina pr. F-3 Lermontovsky pr. C-3/C-4 Shvedsky per. D-2 help you file a police report. Your consulate can help
Baskov per. E-2 Letny sad D-2 Sinopskaya nab. F-3 you if your passport has been stolen.
Belinskogo ul. E-2 Leitenanta Shmidta nab. C-3 Smolnaya nab. F-2
Birzhevaya liniya C-2 Ligovsky pr. E-3/E-4 Solyanoy per. E-2 MONEY
Blagoveshchensky most C-2 Liteiny most E-2 Sotsialisticheskaya ul. E-3 The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come
in denominations of 50, 100, 200, 500, 1,000, 2,000 and
Blokhina ul. C-2 Liteiny pr. E-2/E-3 Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul. E-3/F-2,3
5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are
Bol. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Lomonosova ul. D-3/E-3 Spassky per. D-3 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and
Bol. Morskaya ul. C-3/D-3 Makarova nab. C-2 Sredniy pr. (V0) B-2,3/C-2 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most
Bol. Podyacheskaya ul. D-3 Mal. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Starorusskaya ul. F-3 metro stations, banks and large hotels.
Bolsheokhtinsky most F-2 Mal. Morskaya ul. D-3 Stolyarny per. D-3
Bolshoy pr. (PS) C-1,2 Mal. Posadskaya D-1 Stremyannaya ul. E-3 FOREIGNER PRICES
Bolshoy pr. (VO) B-3/C-2 Mal. Sadovaya E-3 Suvorovsky pr. F-2,3 The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good
old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At
Chernyshevskogo pr. E-2 Maly pr. (PS) C-1 Sverdlovskaya nab. F-1,2
some theatres and museums, foreigners are re-
Chkalovsky pr. C-1 Maly pr. (VO) B-1 Tavricheskaya ul. F-2 quired to pay two to five times more than the Rus-
Degtyarnaya ul. F-3 Manezhnaya pl. E-3 Chaikovskogo ul. E-2 sian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Rus-
Dekabristov ul. C-3/D-3 Marata ul. E-3 Teatralnaya pl. C-3
sian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the
‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says
Dostoevskogo ul. E-3 Marsovo pole D-2 Troitsky most D-2 you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local ALCOHOL
Dumskaya ul. D-3 Mayakovskogo ul. E-2/E-3 Tuchkov most C-2 price. The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka.
Dvortsovaya nab. D-2 Mendeleevskaya liniya C-2 Tverskaya ul. F-2 The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, fol-
lowed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popu-
Efimova ul. D-3 Mikhailovskaya ul. D-3 Universitetskaya nab. C-2,3 HEALTH AND SAFETY lar alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovetskoe shampanskoe
Furshtatskaya ul. E-2 Millionnaya ul. D-2 Vladimirsky pr. E-3 Russian drivers are your biggest danger, so cross roads (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note
Galernaya ul. C-3 Moskovsky pr. D-3/D-4 Vosstaniya ul. E-2,3 carefully. In the winter icy streets and huge icicles can also that you cannot buy alcohol above 0,5% in shops between
Glinki ul. C-3 Moiky reky nab. C-3/D-2,3 Vosstaniya pl. E-3
pose a danger so watch where you walk. The city’s water is 22:00 and 11:00.
chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy metals, so you
Goncharnaya ul. E-3 Muchnoy per. D-3 Voznesensky pr. D-3 can use it to brush your teeth or wash fruit. For drinking or CLIMATE
Gorokhovaya ul. D-3 Mytninskaya nab. С-2/D-2 Zagorodny pr. D-3,4/E-3 making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, or clean the
Grafsky per. E-3 Nekrasova ul. E-2 Zhukovskogo ul. E-3 tap water with a filter and give it a good boil first. In June and July, during St. Petersburg’s glorious White
Nights, the city’s weather is usually at its best. Tempera-
Griboedova kan. nab. C-3,4/D-2,3 Nevsky pr. D-3/E-3/F-3 tures range from the low to mid teens at night (what
Grivtsova per. D-3 Ostrovskogo pl. E-3 BRIDGES little of it the city sees anyway) to warm and pleasant
Inzhenernaya ul. E-3 Pestelya ul. E-2 Abbreviations temperatures in the mid 20s during the day. Sudden
Al. Nevskogo 02:20 - 05:10 storms and the occasional cloudy and windy day mean
Isaakievskaya pl. D-3 Petrovskaya nab. D-2 Ul. – Ulitsa
Blagoveshchensky 01:25 - 02:45 03:10 - 05:00 it’s best to be prepared – think layers, an umbrella and
Iskusstv pl. D-3 Pirogovskaya nab. E-1/E-2 Pr. – Prospekt a folding paper fan.
Italyanskaya ul. D-3/D-4 Pochtamtskaya ul. C-3 Pl. – Ploshchad Birzhevoy 02:00 - 04:55

Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm
Kadetskaya liniya C-2 Poltavskaya ul. F-3 Bul. – Bulvar Bolsheokhtinsky 02:00 - 05:00
Kamennoostrovsky pr. D-1 Pushkinskaya ul. E-3 Per. – Pereulok Dvortsovy 01:10 - 02:50 03:10 - 04:55
Karavannaya ul. E-3 Radishcheva ul. E-2/E-3 Kan. – Kanal Liteiny 01:40 - 04:45
Kazanskaya ul. D-3 Razyezzhaya ul. E-3 Nab. – Naberezhnaya Troitsky 01:20 - 04:50
Kirochnaya ul. E-2/F-2 Rimskogo-Korsakova ul. C-3,4/D-3 Bol. – Bolshaya Tutchkov 02:00 - 02:55 03:35 - 04:55
Kolokolnaya ul. E-3 Robespyera nab. E-2 Mal. – Malaya Volodarsky 02:00 - 03:45 04:15 - 05:45 Rain (max) Average temperature (oC)
Highest recorded temperature (oC) Lowest recorded temperature (oC)

8 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket June - July 2018 9

 Arriving & Getting Around
ARRIVING IN TOWN
ARRIVING BY PLANE
St. Petersburg’s international terminal Pulkovo is located in
the south of the city (metro Moskovskaya). The airport offers
the usual shops and restaurants within the terminal building
and hotels nearby. Keep your eyes open for ATM machines
and money exchanges (obmen valyuty) if you urgently need
some roubles. If you want to relax with a coffee and cake be-
fore being collected or trying to find your way into the city,
be aware that the airport prices have been known to cause
heart failure!
Getting into town: To get into the city centre you can
take Bus №39 or mini-bus (marshrutka) №39 to Moskovs-
kaya metro station (seven stops – it will take 15-25 minutes
depending on traffic) and then take the metro into town
(another seven stops in the metro – about 15-20 minutes).
Once you are in the metro you can get to most parts of
town quickly. Keep you eyes open for maps of the metro
system if you need to find a particular station.
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
All the train stations are located next to metro stations, so
you simply need to step off the train and enter into the
bowels of St. Petersburg’s underground system and find
your way to the metro station nearest your destination.
Departing St. Petersburg by train: If you’d just like to
get out of the city for the day, local trains (electrichky)
cheaply connect the villages and suburbs to St. Peters-
burg. Electrichky to Gatchina, Lomonosov and Peterhof
depart from Baltiisky station, from Finlyandsky you can
visit Viborg, and Pushkin and Pavlovsk are covered by
Vitebsky.
BALTISKY STATION
QC-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBaltiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 457 28 59, www.ozd.rzd.ru.
FINLYANDSKY STATION
QE-1, Pl. Lenina 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46,
www.ozd.rzd.ru.
LADOZHSKY STATION
QZanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53
10, www.ozd.rzd.ru.
MOSKOVSKY STATION
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457
44 28, www.ozd.rzd.ru.
VITEBSKY STATION
QD-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812
457 59 39, www.ozd.rzd.ru.
10 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Language
PUBLIC TRANSPORT MORNING AND EVENING GROUPS USEFUL PHRASES
GROUP AND INDIVIDUAL CLASSES
Petersburg residents get around the city using a variety IN-COMPANY TRAINING
of transport options. The fastest and most efficient is the No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да
metro. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets Hello Zdrastvuite Здравствуйте
from the conductor or driver (40Rbl for bus, tram, trolley- Goodbye Dasvidaniya До свидания
bus) and up to 50Rbl for a marshrutka (mini-bus). All forms
of transport work from around 06:00 to just after midnight. Thank you Spasibo Спасибо
St. Petersburg’s metro is one of the deepest in the world Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините
derzhavin.com +7 (812) 578 53 98 lingv@derzhavin.com
and one of the most beautiful. Central stations and those Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста
on the red line are particularly impressive, featuring tons
of Soviet symbology in bronze, glass and stone. It’s also SERGEY DOVLATOV I don't understandYa ne panimayu Я не понимаю
fast and efficient and, during peak time, you won’t need If you’re a fan of 20th century Russian literature the name Ser- I don't speak Ya ne gavaryu Я не говорю
to wait more than three minutes for a ride. The metro runs gey Dovlatov will surely need no introduction. For those who Russian pa-russky по-русски
from 06:00 till around 00:30. First, you’ll need to buy a to- have not yet heard of him, we’ll gladly tell you why it’s worth Do you speak Vy gavaritye Вы говорите
ken (zheton). Zhetons cost 45Rbl and can be bought from picking up one of his books as soon as possible. English? pa-anglisky? по-английски?
the window labelled kassa. There are five different metro Dovlatov was born on 3 September, 1941 in Ufa and is, un- Help Pomogitye Помогите
lines, and to change lines, you usually need to change til this day, one of the most popular Russian writers of the
stations. There are underground passageways linking ad- late 20th century. Dovlatov’s books are full of real places and May I? Mozhno? Можно?
jacent stations like Sadovaya/Sennaya pl./Spasskaya and names - everything in his prose is set where the writer himself Do you have...? U vas est…? У вас есть...?
Nevsky pr./Gostiny Dvor. When you arrive at a station, it lived, whether that be St. Petersburg, Vienna or New York. In I don't know Ya ne znayu Я не знаю
can be difficult to see the name of where you are. You the writer’s life, literature and destiny were closely interwoven.
will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the Dovlatov was a master of the tragicomic literary tradition How much is it? Skolko stoit? Сколько стоит?
name of the next stop. This can be confusing, so it’s best and found inspiration in the works of Anton Chekhov, Arkady Mnye (ne) Мне (не)
I (don’t) like it
to count your stops. Averchenko and Mikhail Zoshchenko. He gained fame for nravitsa нравится
Buses and trolleybuses are another option and they have his stories and novels including “A Suitcase”, “An Underwood Bolshoy/ Большой/
the advantage of allowing you to take in the architecture of Solo”, “A Reserve”, “A Compromise” and many others. Large/small
malenky маленкий
the city, sometimes very slowly and often over the leather- He started his career as a journalist at various newspapers
Khorosho/ Хорошо/
covered shoulders of a local commuter. Scrolling banners in Leningrad and then as a correspondent of an Estonian Good/bad
plokho плохо
above the driver’s cabin will list the next destination. Many newspaper. In the Soviet Union, Dovlatov’s works were not
also feature pre-recorded announcements for the current published because the magazines did not want to print the It hurts! Bolno! Больно!
and following stop. Routes are indicated on window plac- bitter truth of Soviet life he wrote about. In 1979, Dovlatov Today Sevodnya Сегодня
ards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. emigrated from the USSR to the U.S. He lived in New York for Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра
The marshrutka is a mini-bus taxi which follows a fixed more than 10 years and dedicated his writing to witty and
route. The marshrutka concept emerged in the 90s as colorful stories about the lives of Soviet émigrés in the U.S. Ostanavite Остановите,
Stop here please
a reaction to overcrowded public transport. These days, During his New York years, he was friends with many émigré pazhalusta пожалуйста
they go just about everywhere within the city and out to writers and often met with poet Joseph Brodsky, always thor- When? At what Kogda? Vo Когда? Во
the suburbs. Sadly, they no longer run on Nevsky, which oughly preparing himself before their encounters. Dovlatov’s time? skolko? сколько?
disconnects them from much of the centre. They have close friend Alexander Genis once said: “I think that Brodsky Of course Koneshno Конечно
set departure points, but otherwise, when you see the was the only person whom Sergey was afraid of.” But “eve-
ryone was afraid” of Brodsky and everyone venerated him, Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! С праздником!
number you want, just hail it down like a taxi. To pay,
hand your fare (up to 50Rbl) to the driver or to the per- admitting the unique scale of his personality.
son in front of you. When you want to get off, yell out Genis also wrote that Dovlatov was convinced Dostoevsky DERZHAVIN INSTITUTE
loudly, ostanovite pozhaluista, and the driver will come was the funniest author in Russian literature. It may seem
to a screeching halt. outlandish at first but to Dovlatov humor was not the end or The Derzhavin Institute is a great place to throw your-
the means, but an instrument to understand life. self into the romance of Russian culture. Situated in two
TAXIS In February of this year, the world premiere of a biopic historical buildings (one of the 18th century, another of
dedicated to Dovlatov (directed by Alexey German Jr.) was the 19th), the school has a beautiful setting. The school
The easiest way to order a taxi is to download one of the screened at the 68th Berlinale. The film – simply called offers a variety of courses: Standard course, Business
taxi apps. Here are the best taxi companies that have de- “Dovlatov” – portrays several days of his life as a writer in Russian, Russian for Tourism industry and Literature
veloped nice, user-friendly apps. Leningrad in 1971. Writing honestly as a journalist, his tense courses. Expats can benefit from special prices and of-
TAXOVICHKOF relationship with his ex-wife and daughter, and other press- fers for morning, evening group classes and individual
Qtel. (+7) 812 333 00 00, taxovichkof.com. ing issues are brought to the fore by German Jr., who reveals tuition. The quality of all the services provided is ac-
GETT TAXIQwww.gett.com/ru. the inner world of the writer amid a totalitarian regime. credited by the Russian ministry of education and Euro-
TAXI PULKOVO The film is already considered one of German Jr.’s best films pean organization EAQUALS.QTroitskу pr. 6, MTekh-
The airport’s official taxi service provides a reliable and and has won many accolades including a Silver Lion Award nologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 578 53 98, www.
affordable transfer service to/from any part of the city. at the Venetian Film Festival. Serbian actor Milan Maric plays derzhavin.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, classes till 21:45.
Qtel. (+7) 812 677 86 35, www.taxipulkovo.com. Dovlatov and has an uncanny resemblance to the writer, Closed Sat, Sun.
making the movie even more convincing.
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket June - July 2018 11
 What’s On

VK Fest positions itself as a festival of everything – and it’s hard to argue with that!
Go to page 14 to read more. (c) Photo www.vk.com/fest

Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After spending SUMMER FESTIVALS

a day walking through the finest museums and histori- 10.06 - 11.06 » STEREOLETO
cal locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera, circus Stereoleto is the oldest independent international annual
performance, rock or pop concerts any and every night summer festival of contemporary and alternative music in
you choose. Russia with an unforgettable atmosphere, perfect music
content and excellent reputation established over the
years.  The festival has been repeatedly awarded “The
THEATRES event of the year” and “The Festival of the year” by local
ALEXANDRINSKY THEATRE mass-media (Billboard, TimeOut St. Petersburg, etc.) and
QE-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 has won a lot of professional awards. Stereoleto is a pio-
15 45, www.alexandrinsky.ru neer among the open-air music festivals in Russia. In the
BOLSHOY DRAMA THEATRE last 10 years Stereoleto  was located was held on Elagin
QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 65, MSennaya pl., tel.(+7) Island but this year, organizers are trying a new venue -
812 244 10 71, www.bdt.spb.ru ARTPLAY in the city centre of St. Petersburg. The line-up
IMPERIAL HERMITAGE THEATER includes Franz Ferdinand, Squarepusher, Milky Chance,
QC-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 Kirpichi, HMLTD and others. QArtPlay, Krasnogvardeys-
710 90 30, www.balet-spb.ru kaya pl. 3, MNovocherkasskaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 91 77,
MALY DRAMA THEATRE Tickets 2,500Rbl., www.bestfest.ru.
QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 18, MDostoevskaya, tel.(+7)
812 713 20 78, www.mdt-dodin.ru
MARIINSKY CONCERT HALL
QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326
41 41, www.mariinsky.ru
MARIINSKY THEATRE
QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326
41 41, www.mariinsky.ru
MIKHAILOVSKY THEATRE
QD-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43
19, www.mikhailovsky.ru
GRAND PHILHARMONIC HALL 13.06 17:00 » ROCK N’ BALL
QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel.(+7) 812 A new rock festival is kicking off this year and owes its
710 42 90, www.philharmonia.spb.ru name to the FIFA World Cup which is happening across
SAINT PETERSBURG OPERA several Russian cities – including St. Petersburg – this sum-
QC-3, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 mer. For six whole hours, rock fans can enjoy their favorite
67 69, www.spbopera.ru music as well as a live stream of the World Cup’s opening
match (Russia vs Saudi Arabia). Headliners of the festival
12 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket June - July 2018 13
 What’s On
RUSSIAN MUSIC SEASONS
How about immersion into the atmosphere of old
Russian aristocracy? Russian Music Seasons is an event
which will give you a chance to hear an incredible col-
lection of Russian musical masterpieces performed by
the orchestra and see the most luxurious old palaces.
Summer concerts will take place in House of Scien-
tists, former Grand Duke Vladimir Palace. Before the
concert the guests will be invited to see the most in-
teresting halls of this rich house. And later — to enjoy
masterpieces of Russian classic music of such genius as
Tchaikovsky, Prokofiev, Rachmaninov and many other
outstanding composers. Dress code: cocktail. June 2, 4,
6, 9, 11, 13, 16, 18, 20, 23, 25, 27, 30. July 2, 4, 7, 9, 11, 14, 16,
18, 21, 23, 25, 28, 30.
QD-2, House of Scientists, Dvortsovaya nab. 26,
MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 981 131 48 68, Tickets
4,000Rbl., www.rmseasons.com/en.
are Ken Hensley (of Uriah Heep), Vadim Samoilov (of leg-
endary Russian rock band Agata Kristi), Slot and several up
and coming bands from Russian regions are also on the
bill.QLedovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshe-
vikov, tel. (+7) 812 718 66 20, Tickets 1,900 - 5,000Rbl.,
www.rocknball.ru.
19.07 - 22.07 » GAMMA FESTIVAL
Gamma Festival is St. Peters-
burg’s four-day immersive
music and art event is a
fascinating addition to the
global music scene. For the
third time, the festival will
bring in droves of music
fans for a rare music and art
experience that doesn’t have
to rely on big budget headliners.  Curated and promoted
by  m_division, Gamma Festival celebrated its first year in
2016 with overwhelming success. The venue – a large in-
dustrial space held in the former Stepan Razin brewery – is
every raver’s dream. Offering deep and experimental tech-
no, house, electro and many styles of electronic music, there
is no doubt that GAMMA festival is pure of heart – existing
to offer a cerebral escape through the power of art and mu-
sic.QTickets 1,800Rbl., www.gammafestival.ru.
14 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
27.07 - 30.07 » PRESENT PERFECT FESTIVAL
Present Perfect is an electron-
ic music and contemporary
arts festival coming back to
St. Petersburg for the fourth
time. The festival’s intense
three-year history proved it to
be one of the most respect-
able Russian events, dedi-
cated to expanding the term
“urban leisure time”, and of course to the contemporary music
culture. Over these last three years, thousands of positive re-
views from festivalgoers as well as foreign press praised the
festival. In 2018 the program of the festival is again shaping
up to be a massive weekend, full of different activities: par-
ties, concerts, lectures and much more. World class DJ’s such
as Nina Kraviz, Ellen Alien, Ben UFO and others will help you
rave like there’s no tomorrow.QPort Sevkabel, Kozheven-
naya liniya 40, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 448 15
93, Tickets 2,300Rbl., www.runited.ru.
28.07 - 29.07 » VK FEST
VK Fest positions itself as a festival of everything – and it’s hard
to argue with that! As is by now tradition, Russia’s biggest so-
cial network is throwing a huge two-day party that brings its
users together in the real world. A park on the coast of the
Gulf of Finland the size of 50 football fields will host popular
musicians, bloggers, online communities and VK users from
all corners of Russia. This year, festivalgoers would need 33.5
hours to visit each one of the 350 interactive stands for just
five minutes! Your entertainment is certainly guaranteed.
QA-1, Park of St. Petersburg 300 Anniversary, Primorsky
pr. 74, MStaraya Derevnya, tel. (+7) 812 345 10 80, Tickets
1,500 - 3,800Rbl., www.vk.com/fest.
28.07 » USADBA JAZZ
The biggest Russian open-air festival joining jazz, funk,
world music, acid-jazz, lounge, jazz-rock, blues and other
directions of contemporary improvised music is back for yet
another exciting edition this July! Held for the first time in
May of 2004 in Moscow, Usadba Jazz has since branched
out to other major Russian cities, bringing many of the
world’s top names in jazz to a wide Russian audience. As
has become tradition, the St. Petersburg edition is held on
the scenic Yelagin Island. Confirmed artists include Bigy-
uki and Rohey. The final program is still being developed
but rest assured that you will be grooving, funking and
jamming!QB-2, Yelagin Park, Yelagin ostrov 4, MKre-
stovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 430 09 11, Tickets 1,800Rbl.,
www.usadba-jazz.ru.
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
CONCERTS
16.05 - 29.06 » MUSICAL COLLECTION
Classical music lovers
should clear their sched-
ule between May 16 and
June 29 because the 17th
International “Musical Col-
lection” is back in St. Pe-
tersburg for the 13th time.
This year, the festival will
be launched with Maris
Jansons’ Bavarian Radio
Symphony Orchestra. A few of the other highlights also in-
clude Haydn’s “Jahrenzeiten” performed by Signum, Jacek
Kaspszyk conducting Mozart’s Don Giovanni and Dvorak’s
Eighth Symphony and much more. The program this year
is a true delight for classical music connoisseurs so be sure
to check it out on the festival’s website and get your tickets
before they sell out!QD-3, St. Petersburg Philharmonia,
Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42
90, Tickets 500 - 12,000Rbl., www.philharmonia.spb.ru.
01.06 20:00 » NOEL GALLAGHER’S HIGH
FLYING BIRDS
For fans of 1990’s Britpop,
the often rowdy Gallagher
brothers signify an entire
musical epoch. This sum-
mer, Noel Gallagher and his
High Flying Birds are com-
ing to delight Russian fans
with a presentation of their
latest album “Who Built the
Moon?”. Noel Gallagher’s
latest is the most ambitious of his solo releases, internaliz-
ing the heyday of late 1990’s Britpop while sounding both
urgent and absurd to mostly great effect. The album imag-
ines an alternate late-1990’s where Noel deeply internalized
the adventurous music being made by his peers in Primal
Scream, Death in Vegas and David Holmes (whom he wisely
tapped to be his producer).QD-1, A2 Green Concert, Pr.
Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22,
Tickets 3,000 - 6,500Rbl., www.noelgallagher.com.
03.06 20:00 » OZZY OSBOURNE
All good things come to an end and the world of heavy
metal is no exception to the rule. At the ripe age of 69, the
“Godfather of Heavy Metal” has decided to close the tour-
ing chapter of his musical career for good. “No More Tours
2”, his extensive farewell world tour that will stretch into
2020, will kick off his tour in 2018 with a show in Mexico and
will embark on his six-week European leg of headlining solo
dates and festival performances that’s set to launch on June
1, 2018 in Moscow. “I’m looking at this final tour as being a
huge celebration for my fans and anyone who has enjoyed
my music over the past five decades”, Ozzy explained.QLe-
dovy Dvorets, Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7)
812 718 66 20, Tickets 4,000 - 12,000Rbl., www.ozzy.com.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
What’s On
SWAN LAKE
07.06 - 15.06
This June, ballet and classical music lovers can expe-
rience a real treat in Russia’s cultural capital. On the
stage of the State Hermitage’s theater, the “Theater
of Classical Ballet” together with an orchestra di-
rected by Maxim Alexeev will present a true gem of
Russian choreography – Pyotr Tchaikovsky’s “Swan
Lake”. To add a cherry on top of the icing, the solo-
ists of the Mariinsky Theater will take part in the
performance. Classical ballet on a historical stage is
for those who want to take with them the fantastic
beauty of choreography and the musical themes of
ballet.QD-2, Hermitage Theatre, Dvortsovaya nab.
34, MAdmiralteiskaya, Tickets 5,000Rbl., www.
russianballettickets.com/en.
04.06 20:00 » THE KILLS
The bluesy punk duo the
Kills consist of vocalist/gui-
tarist VV, aka Alison Moss-
hart, formerly of the Florida
punk band Discount, and
drummer/guitarist/vocalist
Hotel, aka Jamie Hince. Over
their almost decade-and-
a-half career, The Kills have
released four records. Each one a restless, reckless enig-
matic art statement that bristled with tension, anxiety, sex,
unstudied cool and winking ennui, yet not one of them
sounded like the previous one. This summer they’re com-
ing back to St. Petersburg to delight fans with their fifth
studio album “Ash & Ice”. It’s their first album in five years
and they encompass everything they’ve done before, as
well as bringing in boombox beats with Brazilian and Afro-
pop influences.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul.
24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33
33, Tickets 2,000 - 7,000Rbl., www.thekills.tv.
For all the latest concert, event and
exhibition news follow us on facebook at
www.facebook.com/
StPetersburgInYourPocket
June - July 2018 15
 What’s On
12.06 20:00 » BLACK REBEL MOTORCYCLE CLUB
By fusing together elements of the psych, space rock,
noise-pop and classic rock and roll that weave themselves
across five acclaimed studio albums, BRMC live shows
have often been hailed as events rather than mere gigs; a
dynamic showcase of dark, brooding rock mixed with an
energetic show you can’t take your eyes off.QD-4, Club
Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky
Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, Tickets 1,900 - 5,000Rbl.,
www.blackrebelmotorcycleclub.com.
13.06 20:00 » RISE AGAINST
Chicago’s Rise Against began in 1999 when ex-88 Fingers
Louiebassist Joe Principe tapped area vocalist Tim McIlrath
for a new project rooted in the sound and social vision of tra-
ditional hardcore. Over the past decade, Rise Against have
become one of the top tier bands in rock. Their last three
studio albums have landed in the Top 5 of the Billboard 200
album chart and have done well in numerous corners of the
world. Their latest effort “Wolves” continues their successful
run and is an appealing combination of catchy songs and
thoughtful, passionate lyrics.QD-1, A2 Green Concert, Pr.
Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22,
Tickets 2,300 - 6,000Rbl., www.riseagainst.com.
28.06 20:00 » STEEL PANTHER
The Sunset Strip’s favourite sons, Steel Panther, are returning
to Russia in June, 2018 for a with their Sunset Strip Live! tour
to play all the best hair metal songs of all time, eventually
becoming the Steel Panther everyone loves. Their catalogue
of hits is unstoppable, featuring hits like “Death to All But
Metal”, “Community Property” and “Poontang Boomerang”.
Don’t miss the raucous, irreverent, all-out hair metal assault
on your senses. QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul.
24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33,
Tickets 2,000 - 4,000Rbl., www.steelpantherrocks.com.
25.07 20:00 » NICK CAVE AND THE BAD
SEEDS
Nick Cave is an Australian singer-songwriter and musician
hailing from Warracknabeal, Victoria. Born in 1957, he’s
perhaps best known as the frontman and songwriter of
Nick Cave and The Bad Seeds, though he’s also recognised
for his work with The Birthday Party, The Boys Next Doors,
and Grinderman. Now, to the huge delight of Russian mu-
sic lovers, Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds are returning once
again to the Motherland.QD-1, A2 Green Concert, Pr.
Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22,
Tickets 4,000 - 10,000Rbl., www.nickcave.com.
16 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
EXHIBITIONS
16.06 - 07.07 » FUTUROPOLIS.
THE CITY OF WOMEN
Born in Halle (East Germany) in 1963, Olaf Martens first started
taking photographs when the Berlin Wall was still standing.
By the time Martens finished his photography studies at the
Leipzig Academy of Visual Arts in 1990 and became a free-
lance photographer, the GDR no longer existed. Martens’ in-
ternational career kicked off immediately after his graduation,
beginning with the publication of his erotic photographs in
Stern magazine in 1990. His work has appeared in countless
exhibitions throughout all of Europe. Martens spent about ten
years living and working in St. Petersburg and in that time he
managed to photograph the country’s political, business and
cultural elite. The “Futuropolis. The City of Women” exhibition
is a fascinating journey into the world of a possible future, this
is a reflection on the future, representation of the idea how
today’s reality can be transformed due to technical progress.
QD-3, Au Pont Rouge, Nab. reky Moiky 73, MAdmiral-
teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 244 97 84, Admission free., www.
aupontrouge.ru/en. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
20.06 - 18.07 » ST. PETERSBURG 2103
We’re all so accustomed to seeing St. Petersburg as a liv-
ing monument to the 18th  and 19th  centuries. We bow
down to the past. To mix things up a bit, the exhibition “St.
Petersburg 2103” offers an unusual look at St. Petersburg as
a megacity. Taking into account that the exhibition’s name
alludes to St. Petersburg’s 400th century, the idea here is
that the city’s future is only just beginning. The exhibition
is divided into four parts: Project Petersburg (The Past),
Petersburg Twilights (Present), The Game “Build Your City”
and Visions (The Future). In addition to all this, guests can
enjoy a comfortable relaxation zone and a wide variety of
lectures and discussions centered around urbanism and
modern culture and technologies. QC-2, Manege, Isaa-
kievskaya pl. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+ 7) 812 611 11
00, Tickets 300Rbl., www.manege.spb.ru.
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
28.06 - 09.09 » ANNIVERSARY EXHIBITION
“NICHOLAS II”
To mark the 150th anniver-
sary of the birth of Russia’s
last Tsar, Nicholas II, ROSFO-
TO is launching a very spe-
cial photo exhibition that
details the ruler’s life and his
activities within the govern-
ment of the Russian Empire.
In addition to photographs,
other artefacts will also
be on display. ROSFOTO presents this exhibition together
with the State Archive of the Russian Federation, the Rus-
sian State Archive of Photo and Video Documents, the State
Archive of the Navy Fleet and the St. Petersburg  Central
Archive of Photo and Video Documents.QD-3, ROSPHOTO
The State Museum and Exhibition Centre for Photogra-
phy, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 314 12 14, Tickets 100 - 300Rbl., www.rosphoto.org.
Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 21:00.
THROUGH 01.07 » INTERNATIONAL RED CROSS
This joint exhibition of ROSFOTO and the International
Committee of the Red Cross gives a somber insight into
the lives of children from politically, socially and environ-
mentally unstable places. In these situations, the help that
the Red Cross offers becomes a real lifeline for kids. The
year 2018 is the year of the volunteer in Russia, which pro-
vided the idea for this collaboration. ROSFOTO selected
more than 300 photographs from the ICRC archives that
shed light on the humanitarian help offered to children
from the first World War and up until the present day, unit-
ing the works of the best photographers in the field of war
and documentary photography.QD-3, ROSPHOTO The
State Museum and Exhibition Centre for Photography,
Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
314 12 14, Tickets 100 - 300Rbl., www.rosphoto.org.
Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 21:00.
THROUGH 01.07 » ERNST BARLACH –
KÄTHE KOLLWITZ: BEYOND THE BORDERS
OF EXISTENCE
Two prominent German artists – Ernst Barlach and
Käthe Kollwitz – come back to Russia, the cultural re-
gion which they always felt connected to and which
noticeably influenced their work. Their works reflect
a cultural transfer that began more than 100 years
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
What’s On
FOLK SHOW
“RUSSIA IN FAIRYTALES”
Do you want to get an authentic glimpse of Russian
culture? Your best bet is grandiose folklore show
“Russia in Fairytales”! The world famous song and
dance ensemble is here to demonstrate their best
pieces on the stage of the concert hall of the Officer
Assembly. Throughout the two-hour performance,
the ensemble performs the widest range of songs
and dances from fiery and emotional to lyrical and
touching pieces. In addition to the music and danc-
ing, you will spend the entire show marvelling at the
artists’ costumes, all sewn by the famous masters of
the craft. The show has two parts and a 20-minute
break, during which time grab a bite and/or drink
from the buffet. June 1, 2, 4-12, 14-22, 24, 26, 28-30.
July 1, 3, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 13-15, 17, 20-29, 31.
QE-2, Liteiny pr. 20, Officer Assembly, MCherny-
shevskaya, tel. (+7) 901 306 68 20. Tickets 2500Rbl.,
www.vk.com/nkofolkshow. The shows start at 20:15.
IMPERIAL GARDENS
OF RUSSIA
21.06 - 27.06
The “Imperial Gardens of Russia”, the international fes-
tival of garden and park art, is an annual large-scale
event held by the Russian Museum that takes place on
its grounds, in the Summer Garden. This year’s edition of
the festival is set to be extra special and stunning thanks
to the 120th anniversary since the founding of the Rus-
sian Museum.  The central event of the festival is the
landscaping exhibition and competition. In plots spe-
cially designated for the exhibition in the Mikhailovsky
Garden, competition participants create landscaping
compositions on a given topic. It is an event not to be
missed if you appreciate real beauty! QD-2, Summer
Garden, Island Summer Garden, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 314 34 48, www.igardens.ru/en/imperial-
gardens-festival/. Tickets 500Rbl, family ticket (2
adults and 2 children) 800Rbl.
June - July 2018 17
 What’s On
ago and which this exhibition project aims to build
on. Both artists saw the task of their art in changing
the world with their profoundly humanistic art. Their
greatest achievement was undoubtedly their tireless
struggle for peace. The exhibition of over 220 works
by the two German artists is accompanied by an ex-
tensive presentation of their Russian contemporaries:
sculptors Boris Korolyov, Sergey Konyonkov, Anna
Golubkina, draughtsmen and printmakers Vera Yer-
molayeva, Pyotr Osolodkov, Vassily Masyutin and oth-
ers. QD-2, Marble Palace, Millionnaya ul. 5 bldg. 1,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, Tickets 150
- 300Rbl., www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.
THROUGH 08.07 » ARTE POVERA.
A CREATIVE REVOLUTION
Arte Povera (“Poor
Art”) was a movement
which originated in Italy
in the late 1960’s and
early 197’0s. The artists
involved in the move-
ment strove to reject
all-consuming techni-
cal progress in favor of
handicrafts, renouncing industrial and hi-tech materials
and using “poor”, non-aesthetic materials such as rags,
newspapers and tree branches with the aim of freeing
art from the shackles of traditionalism. The exhibition
includes works by Giovanni Anselmo, Alighiero Boetti,
Pier Paolo Calzolari, Jannis Kounellis, Giuseppe Penone,
Michelangelo Pistoletto and other prominent mem-
bers of the movement. The concept of the exhibition
is to contrast the Arte Povera objects with the splendid
views and the classical façades of the Winter Palace.
QD-2, Hermitage, Dvortsovaya pl. 2, MAdmiralteis-
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, Tickets 400 - 700Rbl.,
www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00,
Wed, Fri 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
THROUGH 29.07 » ILYA AND EMILIA KABA-
KOV. NOT EVERYONE WILL BE TAKEN INTO
THE FUTURE
Ilya Kabakov is a major exponent of Moscow conceptu-
alism, a representative of the later generation of Soviet
artists who gained international recognition in the field
of art. Kabakov is famous for inventing a new genre – the
total installation, in which the work is not an individual
object but an entire unified space entered by the viewer.
The creative team of Ilya and Emilia Kabakov mytholo-
gises the routine everyday communal life of the USSR.
This retrospective exhibition demonstrates the origin
and evolution of the artist’s method on the basis of in-
stallations, architectural models, painting and graphic
art.QD-2, General Staff Building, Dvortsovaya pl. 6-8,
MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 495 71 71, Tickets 400
- 700Rbl., www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 -
18:00, Wed, Fri 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
18 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
THROUGH 29.07 » THE ART OF MIHÁLY
MUNKÁCSY
The exhibition of works by the celebrated Hungarian art-
ist Mihály Munkácsy (1844 – 1900) represents 60 paint-
ings mostly from the Hungarian National Gallery, but also
from Imre Pakh’s collection. Ilya Repin, Vasily Stasov and
other well-known 19th-century Russian cultural figures
highly appreciated the quality of Munkácsy’s painting as
a realist and subtle colorist. He became a realistic painter
after studying in Vienna, Munich, Dusseldorf and Paris.
Although he was influenced by the Parisian school and
the Barbizon group, Munkácsy always maintained his links
with Hungary.  The exhibition features both monumental
paintings (Christ before Pilate, 1881; Golgotha, 1883) and
a number of sketches for his best-known works. QD-2,
Hermitage, Dvortsovaya pl. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, Tickets 400 - 700Rbl., www.
hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Wed, Fri
10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
THROUGH 30.07 » SPORT IN SOVIET PORCE-
LAIN, GRAPHIC ARTS, AND SCULPTURE
This exhibition includes
around 350 ceramic works
made in the USSR and Rus-
sia between the 1920’s and
the early 1990’s, from the
collections of the Russian
Museum, State Hermitage,
and private collections,
providing an insight into
the theme of sports and
healthy lifestyle as reflect-
ed in Russian ceramic art
of the 20th century. Visi-
tors will learn how the art of pottery responded to major
sporting events, such as the Olympic Games, Spartakiads,
and Goodwill Games; what artistic motives and technical
methods were introduced into ceramics, when, and why.
With works by more than 90 artists on display, never be-
fore has the topic of sport in porcelain been explored so
thoroughly.QD-2, The Benois Wing (Russian Museum),
Nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595
42 48, Tickets 200 - 450Rbl., www.rusmuseum.ru. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00.
Closed Tue.
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
THROUGH 20.08 » KUZMA SERGEEVICH
PETROV-VODKIN. IN HONOR OF THE ART-
IST’S 140TH ANNIVERSARY
Today it is clearer than ever that Kuzma Petrov-Vodkin is a true
genius of the 20th century and the influence he’s had on art
and culture is comparable to such monumental figures as Ma-
levich, Filonov and Kandinsky. Stroll through the different halls
of the Benoit Wing where the artist’s works are presented in
stages, shedding light on all periods in his artistic life. Around
250 works are on display – both the famous ones and those
that time has forgotten. Guests can admire paintings such “The
Bathing of the Red Horse”, “The Mother of God of Tenderness
Towards Evil Hearts”, “Petrograd Madonna” and many others.
QD-2, The Benois Wing (Russian Museum), Nab. kan. Gri-
boedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, Tickets
200 - 450Rbl., www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.
THROUGH 01.09 » BORN OF THE REVOLU-
TION. THE RED FLEET. IN HONOR OF THE
100TH ANNIVERSARY
The Soviet Navy was the naval arm of the Soviet Armed
Forces. Often referred to as the Red Fleet, the Soviet Navy
was established by a 1918 decree of the new Council of Peo-
ple’s Commissars. During the 1930’s, as the industrialization
of the Soviet Union proceeded, plans were made to expand
the Soviet Navy into one of the most powerful in the world
– a plan that as we know now largely succeeded. This exhi-
bition at the Central Navy Museum deals with all aspects of
the Red Fleet’s history with the help of objects from those
days such as paintings and sculpture, medals, weapons,
documents and the first models of Soviet vessels.QC-3,
Central Naval Museum, Pl. Truda 5, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 303 85 13, Tickets 100 - 600Rbl., www.eng.
navalmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
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What’s On
THROUGH 23.09 » SALVADOR DALI:
SCULPTURES
Erarta Museum proudly
presents a sculptural show
of the most famous Sur-
realist artist – Salvador Dalí.
Aside from painting, Dalí
was an interdisciplinary
artist in every way, widely
recognized as a writer, il-
lustrator, jewellery designer,
film-maker and sculptor,
and the aim of this exhibi-
tion is to delve into and ex-
plore the latter. Some of his
Salvador Dali © IAR Art Resources
most iconic paintings were
reimagined in sculptural form and these are sculptures which
will be on show in Erarta Museum this summer. Specifically,
“The Space Elephant”, displayed here at almost 3 meters high
in bronze echoes the 1946 oil on canvas painting “The Temp-
tation of St. Anthony”. There is a level of otherworldliness and
metaphysical imbalance, as the fragile spindly legs could not
typically withstand the heaviness of the obelisk. QB-3, Erarta
Museum of Contemporary Art, VO, 29-ya linya 2, MPri-
morskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, Tickets 500Rbl., www.
erarta.com/en. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue.
THROUGH 01.10 » TO COMPLETELY CHANGE
A PERSON
The interactive exhibition “To Completely Change A Per-
son” aims to tell the viewer about the unique Soviet proj-
ect of the two decades that followed the 1917 Revolution
– creating a “new person”, the builder of “a brighter future”.
After 1917, the “new person” was inextricably linked to be-
ing a communist. The Bolsheviks believed that one could
not achieve a moral ideal outside the party and that the
“new person’s” morals could only be based on the prin-
ciples of communism. With the help of posters, photos,
cards, documents, books and several interactive games
and installations, the viewer will meet that new and ideal
Soviet person.QD-1, Kirov museum, Kamennoostrovsky
pr. 26/28, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 346 02 17,
Tickets 100 - 150Rbl., www.kirovmuseum.ru/en.
THROUGH 31.12 » UNBEATABLE AND
LEGENDARY
The oldest military museum of Russia continues its exhibition
series dedicated to the 100th anniversary of the Red Army, this
time educating viewers about all the stages of the history of
the “unbeatable and legendary”, beginning with its creation
under the red flag in the fateful year of 1918 and finishing with
the start of the 1990’s, when the fall of the Soviet Union re-
sulted in the end of the Soviet Army. Objects related to the
creation of the army are brought together in one exhibition
space and each one of them is an authentic relic from those
crucial days.  QD-2, Artillery Museum, Aleksandrovsky
park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, Tickets 250 - 400Rbl., www.
artillery-museum.ru.
June - July 2018 19

The legendary Soviet goalkeeper Lev Yashin. 1962, World Cup Finals, Chile. © Photo by RIA Novosti / Sputnik
Russian football
Russia is gearing up to host the greatest sporting
extravaganza on the planet, and the entire country
is united in putting on a great show for the world
to watch. But what of matters on the pitch? The
history of Russian football is every bit as chaotic
and confusing as the country itself, from the
halcyon days of the Soviet Union all the way to the
inconsistency of the modern age.
20 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
HISTORY OF RUSSIAN
FOOTBALL
One of the traditional sleeping giants of international foot-
ball, with an undeniably talented team that rarely seem
able to cope with the immense pressure that comes with
pulling on the national shirt. Its greatest achievement came
with international glory in the 1960s, but a couple of semi-
finals are all it has to show for itself in the half a century
since. Not even Fabio Capello could restore former glories.
No, we aren’t talking about England, we’re talking about
the Russian national football team.
The history of football in Russia is one of unfulfilled poten-
tial, crushing pressure and continued failure. That might
sound a little dramatic, but it is difficult to argue against it.
Much like England, Russia enter most international tourna-
ments with heady goals, but everyone knows that getting
out the group stage is the best it can really hope for. The
comparison continues, as football is the most popular sport
in Russia too.
It is no surprise that England and Russia are so similar when
it comes to soccer, as it is the English who are credited with
introducing the Russians to the game at the end of the 19th
century. The English and the Scots that were living in St.
Petersburg started forming teams, and October 24, 1897
saw the first official match in the country. Ostrov (a team
of Brits) obliterated Petrograd (made up of Russians) 6-0 on
the day, but Tsarist Russia had been bitten by the football
bug. It was initially referred to as the ‘British open air game’,
but that didn’t last so long.
October 24, 1897, the first official match in Russia
The national side played its first game in October 1910,
defeating Bohemia 5-4 in an unofficial match in St. Peters-
burg. That would prove to be the only victory the side man-
aged, and some of the defeats don’t make for pretty read-
ing. The Russian Empire was crumbling, and a 16-0 reverse
against the Germans at the 1912 Olympics was a good
enough metaphor for that. A 12-0 loss to Hungary com-
pounded the misery. The team’s last three games ended in
draws, but it was all too little too late.
The first half of the 20th century saw great upheaval in Rus-
sia, not to mention all manner of conflict and violence. The
Russian Empire was ended by the Russian Revolution, and
the two World Wars left a terrible mark on the planet’s larg-
est country. Millions of young men were lost, either dying
in battle or escaping in revolution. The clubs that made up
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Russian football
the national league prior to the October Revolution were
disbanded in the 1920s, and it wasn’t until 1936 that any-
thing approaching a cohesive national league began again.
The first champions? FC Dynamo Moscow.
The Soviet Top League (named the Higher League after
1970) was dominated by Russian clubs throughout its 54
years. The league was one of the strongest in Europe, al-
though its clubs failed to bring home much in the way of
continental trophies. Russian clubs won the championship
an incredible 34 times, with Spartak Moscow (12), Dynamo
Moscow (11) and CSKA (7) at the head of that list. Only
Ukraine’s Dynamo Kiev (13) won more championships than
the Moscow clubs. As many Russian clubs (31) participated
in the top league as the rest of the Soviet republics com-
bined.
The national side played its first game
in October 1910, defeating Bohemia
5-4 in an unofficial match in St. Pe-
tersburg.
Controversy was never far away however. Eduard Streltsov
is considered to be the greatest Russian outfield player
ever to play, but his career was interrupted prior to the
1958 World Cup after allegations of rape. Streltsov was told
that if he pleaded guilty he could play in the tournament,
but found himself sentenced to 12 years in the Gulag in-
stead. CDKA, the predecessor to CSKA Moscow, dominated
the early days of the Soviet league but found themselves
blamed for the Soviet loss to Yugoslavia in the 1952 Olym-
pics. The club was disbanded.
The post-Soviet chaos that engulfed Russia in the ‘90s
was mirrored in its football. The Russian Top League went
through a number of formats, with plenty of teams hinting
at success before falling away and disappearing complete-
ly. Eight former Top League sides disbanded after losing
top flight status (including former champions Alania Vladi-
kavkaz), four of whom have been resurrected in the years
since. One thing that was constant was the domination of
Spartak Moscow, who won nine of the first 10 champion-
ships (Alania being the only other team to win the title).
The turn of the century has seen a revolution in Russian
domestic football however. While the Soviet era saw a
number of state-sponsored teams dominate, the 21st
century has seen the rise of the billionaire owner. Five dif-
ferent clubs have won the Russian Premier League in the
last 15 years, a variety that is bested only by France when
it comes to Europe’s top leagues. CSKA Moscow and Zenit
St. Petersburg are the biggest fish, but Spartak, Lokomotiv
and Rubin Kazan have been there or thereabouts over the
years as well. Recent years have also seen the emergence
of sides in Krasnodar and Rostov. Russia’s domestic game is
in very good health.
And what of the national side? Well, the early comparisons
to England return again. Russian appearances at the World
Cup since the collapse of the Soviet Union have been dis-
appointing, and the side is yet to make it out of the group
June - July 2018 21
 Russian football
Soviet Union national football team in 1988
stages. This is true at all but one European Championships,
although the run to the semi-finals in 2008 brings back
fond memories for Russian football fans, not to mention
players like Andrei Arshavin and Roman Pavlyuchenko.
The last decade has been a struggle for the side. The Sbor-
naya enters the 2018 World Cup as the lowest ranked side
in the entire tournament, an ignominy not experienced by
any team in World Cup history. Not team in history has won
the tournament from such a lowly position, although these
men are no strangers to making history. It was a Russian
who earned the first yellow card in World Cup history after
all, when Evgeny Lovchev was cautioned in the opening
match of the 1970 finals. Oleg Salenko holds another unu-
sual record, being the only man to win the Golden Boot
despite failing to get out of the group stage, a record he
picked up after scoring five goals in Russia’s dead rubber
against Cameroon in 1994.
The last decade has been a struggle
for the side. The Sbornaya enters the
2018 World Cup as the lowest ranked
side in the entire tournament, an ig-
nominy not experienced by any team
in World Cup history.
Historically, Russian teams are well disciplined and dif-
ficult to play against. This hasn’t brought a huge amount
of success, and optimism among fans ahead of the team’s
11th World Cup appearance isn’t high. The nation’s status
as hosts could even prove to be a cross to heavy to bear,
but it is little more than conjecture until proceedings get
underway on June 14.
Russian National Football Team
22 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
LOCAL FOOTBALL
The 2018 FIFA World Cup is just weeks away, and the 21st
edition of the football extravaganza is scheduled to take
place in our darling Russia. Moscow gets the first and last
matches, but the love is more than being shared around.
11 cities will host matches during the tournament, and if
you think St. Petersburg is missing out then you really need
to think again.
After years of relative underachievement, St. Petersburg
has developed into a genuine footballing power in Russia.
Anyone with even the most rudimentary knowledge of Eu-
ropean football will be aware of Zenit St. Petersburg, the
third-most successful Russian club in the post-Soviet era.
Zenit has taken home four Russian Premier League titles
since its first success in 2007, along with a UEFA Cup win
in the 2007/08 season.
The first official game of football long predates the Ze-
nitchiki however, and needless to say it wasn’t a hugely
competitive one. The year was 1897 and the venue was
Vasilievsky Island, when a largely English team by the name
of Ostrov came up against a group of locals imaginatively
called Petrograd. The English ran away with it, picking up a
decisive 6-0 victory, but soccer had well and truly arrived in
what was then the Russian capital.
Zenit wins the 2008 UEFA Cup
Zenit St. Petersburg came together thanks to the merging
of two sides at the end of 1939, a fairly standard begin-
ning for on of the nation’s most famous sides. The first
of those teams was Murzinka, a side established in 1914
who rather fashionably changed its name to Bolshevik in
1924. Bolshevik took on the ‘Zenit’ name 12 years later, but
the real impetus came when it became aligned with Len-
ingradsky Metallichesky Zavod, or Stalinets as they were
better known. The two sides came together to create a
strong club in what was then Leningrad, and the rest was
history.
Except it wasn’t really history, as it took a very long time
for the Lvi (Lions) to establish themselves as a credible
side in Russia. They didn’t really manage to do it during
the time of the Soviet Union, flitting around the middle
of the division for most of the time, a third place finish
in 1980 proving its best between 1945 and 1983. Zenit
actually finished bottom of the league in 1967, but were
saved from relegation when the powers-that-be decided
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that it wouldn’t be right to demote a Petersburg team on
the 50th anniversary of the October Revolution. Glory
eventually arrived in 1984, when Zenit became Soviet
champions for the first and only time in its history. This
wasn’t the start of domination though, as the club were
finally relegated from the top flight in 1989. Zenit gained
entry to the first Russian Top League in 1992, but found
themselves relegated once again.
The famous club wouldn’t return to the top flight of Rus-
sian football until 1996, but needless to say things have
improved in the years since. Gazprom took over the club
in 2005, bringing news players into a new stadium and the
fans into a brand new world. Zenit were crowned champi-
ons of Russia in 2007, topping that success a year later by
defeating Glasgow Rangers in the final of the 2007/08 UEFA
Cup. The victories kept coming in the next season, when
Zenit beat Manchester United 2-1 to become the first Rus-
sian club to win the UEFA Super Cup.
Despite the ambitions of FC Dynamo
and the recent success of Tosno, to
claim that anyone other than Zenit
dominates football in St. Petersburg is
as insulting as it is incorrect.
The club has been a fixture in the upper echelons of the
Russian Premier League over the last decade, not finish-
ing outside the top three since 2009, although they are in
danger of doing so this season. The team has been man-
aged by a number of coaches that will be known to fans of
the game, from Dick Advocaat to Andre Villas-Boas all the
way through to current coach, Roberto Mancini, and many
modern marvels have pulled on the famous sky blue shirts.
The club’s monopoly over football in St. Petersburg means
the Krestovsky Stadium (also known as the Zenit Arena)
regularly sees big crowds too.
That monopoly isn’t complete though, and anyone think-
ing that St. Petersburg is a one club town will be sorely mis-
taken. FC Dynamo St. Petersburg currently compete in the
second tier of Russian football, although the story of The
Blues is a little more convoluted than that of Zenit. Founded
in 1922, the team was actually one of the original seven to
compete in the first Soviet Top League way back in 1936.
Dick Advocaat, head coach of Zenit in 2006–2009
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Russian football
Zenit St. Petersburg. 2018
What’s more, Dynamo actually hosted the very first game
in the league’s history, a 3-1 loss to Lokomotiv Moscow.
Dynamo were a staple in the top division until 1963, when
relegation finally came.
The Blues did a whole lot of nothing over the decades, los-
ing professional status in 2000, regaining it, and then losing
it again in 2004. Dynamo took over the licence of FC Petror-
est in 2007, but poor performances saw them give it back
in 2010. The two finally merged in 2013/14, and are chal-
lenging for promotion to the top tier of Russian football.
The backing of Russian billionaire Boris Rotenberg means it
won’t be surprising if the Russian Premier League features
two Petersburg teams in years to come.
St. Petersburg currently does have two Premier League
sides playing home matches in the city, although the sec-
ond of those is doing so temporarily while a new stadium
is being built. FC Tosno don’t possess the history of Zenit or
Dynamo, only coming into being in 2013, but it has been a
rapid rise up the leagues for the club based 53km southeast
of St. Petersburg. Tosno was promoted to the top division
for the first in its history at the end of last season, but the
club are struggling to avoid relegation this season.
Tosno currently play its home games in the Petrovsky
Stadium, which was also the home ground of Zenit until
it moved into the brand new Zenit Arena. Both stadiums
have their charms, but it is difficult to avoid nostalgic remi-
niscing about the ground that once stood on Krestovsky
Island, the Kirov Stadium. One of the largest stadiums on
the planet, it was demolished in 2006 to make way for the
World Cup hosting colosseum.
Despite the ambitions of FC Dynamo and the recent suc-
cess of Tosno, to claim that anyone other than Zenit domi-
nates football in St. Petersburg is as insulting as it is incor-
rect. The current season might be a disappointing one by
the club’s high standards, but it is far more likely to be a
flash in the pan as opposed to the beginning of a new pe-
riod of failure. Zenit St. Petersburg are flying the flag high
for football in Russia’s second biggest city, and will do so for
decades to come. Expect to see plenty of sky-blue shirts at
the Krestovsky during this summer’s World Cup.
To read everything about the
World Cup 2018 go to page 67.
June - July 2018 23
 Russian cuisine
“The Merchant’s Wife at Tea” by Boris Kustodiev, 1918, Russian Museum.
RUSSIAN KITCHEN: “WHAT
A STRANGE COUNTRY!”
“Not only the climate but even the stomachs are strange.
What a strange country, what a strange country!”, writes
Chekhov in his short tale “Silly Frenchman” in which a
Frenchman and a Russian get involved in an ardent discus-
sion about the daily eating habits in Russia.
As the Russian is waiting for his order, he sighs irritatedly:
“These long intermissions aggravate me horribly! (..) now
it’s three o’clock, and I have an anniversary dinner at five.
The Frenchman – Monsieur Pourquoi – is taken aback and
protests: “Pardon, monsieur, you are already eating dinner”!
Russian cuisine is undoubtedly the most important com-
ponent of the Russian sense of collective identity that al-
lows to distinguish themselves from the others. The imprint
on both the kitchen and the eating habits left by the severe
climate and the country’s dense history is tenaciously pre-
sent and can be traced back to each and every meal up
until modern times.
Allow us to remind you that the vast majority of the Russian
population used to be peasants until the industrialization
that occurred quite late in history. Therefore, besides the
cold winters that made everyone consume nutritious food
on a regular daily basis, the arduously long working days of
peasant life helped shape the average Russian day.
Did you ever wonder what a Russian eats and how many
times a day? I did, especially after reading Chekhov’s story
and conducted a little research for you! However, before we
dive in, bear in mind that each meal deserves its own article.
24 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Dawn is announced by breakfast (zavtrak) - the first meal
of the day. Since Russians have to rush to work, a typical
breakfast is comprised of bread, which holds a special (and
even sacred!) meaning in Russia. As a matter of fact, there
is always bread on the table, during every meal. Bread is
generally eaten with butter as a spread, various dairy prod-
ucts such as cottage cheese (tvorog), jams made of Russia’s
large array of berries and honey or something heavier in the
form of sausage (kolbasa). Kasha (porridge) is believed to
be one of the oldest foods
in Russia and ensures that
breakfast never becomes a
boring happening. While in
the west porridge is usually
made of oatmeal, in Russia
it can also be cooked from
rice, semolina, buckwheat
and millet.
Russians are very flexible when it comes to meals. This is
why there are soggy, milky kashas and more crumbly dry
ones prepared using water. Besides breakfast, a bowl of
porridge can be turned into a sweet dessert, served as a sa-
vory main course or just as a salty accompaniment to meat.
A couple of hours later, an (optional) meal introduces itself:
vtoroy zavtrak, or the second breakfast, which can be classi-
fied as a snack or an easy meal and is considered to be the
perfect excuse to drink tea accompanied by some pirozhki
(mini-pies) with rich fillings such as meat, fish, cheese or
vegetables like cabbage, mushroom or potato. Pirozhki can
also come with sweet fillings.
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The Russian lunch (obed) is the most important meal of the
day and it takes place quite late between 12 and 3 pm. You
might have come across the so-called “business lunch” of-
fered by restaurants to office workers on their lunch break.
The Russian lunch is a two-course meal (sometimes 3) and
includes a soup as the first course. Soups demonstrate the
country’s vastness par excellence! As Russia spans the larg-
est territory on earth, each region has its own adaptations
based on the regional products that are available. During
winter, in order to withstand the cold, hot and thick soups
are preferred. Everybody knows borsch, but there is more!
Shchi is a cabbage soup, which can come in sour (kisly)
versions, with meat and/or even without cabbage at all.
Or even with sorrel instead. Solyanka is a very hearty and
spicy soup that is prepared using several types of meat (the
minimum is 3). Ukha, on the other hand, is a traditional fish-
based soup. In summer, the
Russian kitchen suggests
refreshing cold soups such
as okroshka, which is basi-
cally a fine-cut salad with
cooked meat or fish pre-
pared in kvass (a traditional
fermented beverage made
of rye bread).
As for the main course, which consists of a fish or meat dish,
one can choose from kotlety (meatballs) accompanied by
potatoes, grains or fried mushrooms. Go for the beef stroga-
noff, which is a meat stew cooked in smetana (sour cream)
typically served with boiled or mashed potatoes. Another
familiar Russian dish is pelmeni (Russian dumplings), filled
with meat and onions that lends its flavor to the thinness
of the dough. Salads are also very popular in Russia. The
most widely known salad is undoubtedly “Olivier” - better
known abroad as the Russian salad. The original “secret”
and exclusive recipe, firstly
created by the cook Lucien
Olivier (whom it is named
after) in the 1860’s, gave
way to cheaper and more
available ingredients later
on and gained immense
popularity among the gen-
eral population during the
Soviet period. This salad, which is an absolute must on New
Year’s Eve, is made with diced potato, peas, eggs, cucum-
bers, and mayo or sour cream. One other delicious Russian
specialty is herring under a fur coat (seledka pod shuboy).
The name says it all: salted herring with layers of grated
vegetables, beets, onions and mayonnaise, each and every
layer covering the other delicately.
Poldnik is another optional meal and can be loosely
translated as the afternoon tea. Its name derives from
rural life and announces the moment in which the sun
tilted towards evening, thereby informing the peasant
workers that it was already ‘past half of a day’. Today, the
poldnik takes place between the Russian lunch and sup-
per and gives the opportunity to consume a light meal
or snack.
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Russian cuisine
Last but not least, the Russian
supper – the second larg-
est meal after lunch – takes
place around 8 pm. A typi-
cal Russian supper consists
of appetizers (zakuski) and
a hot meal. Small amounts
of any of the above-men-
tioned dishes can be turned
into zakuski! Salads, salted herring, pickled green tomatoes,
smoked salmon alongside pickled mustard seeds, caviar or
salmon topped bliny (pancakes) with Smetana or pancakes
with cottage cheese (tvorog). Pancakes are especially popu-
lar in Russia because they are eaten during the maslenitsa
celebrations each year. Another starter of the traditional Rus-
sian kitchen is kholodets (jellied meat) usually served with hot
mustard. This time-consuming dish’s origins date back to the
times when cooked meat had to be preserved in a proper way.
Jellied meat is cooked for 7 hours, cut into pieces and left to
chill for another 7 in the broth it was cooked. As a hot meal, any
of the above-mentioned dishes will do. Additionally, Russians
love to drink tea with jam and honey in the evening.
Besides vodka and tea, Russia is home to several national
beverages. Next to the above-mentioned kvas, medovukha
is a honey-based alcoholic drink that consists of honey and
yeast. It owes its delicious taste to berries, herbs, spices and
roots used as additives. Another honey-based beverage is
sbiten, drunk in wintertime and made of spices and jam
in addition to honey. Honey is a very recurrent ingredient
since it was used as a natural sweetener and as a preserva-
tion technique for many other creations and desserts such
as medovik (honey cake).
Now let’s get back to our Frenchman in Chekhov’s story.
Monsieur Pourquoi – meaning ‘why’ in French – suspects in
disdain that the Russians must be eating with the sole pur-
pose of committing suicide judging by the amount. Quite
the contrary…!
OUR FAVORITE: PELMENI
FOR FOOD SNOBS!
Ever tried the Russian
dumplings (pelmeni)
adapted to the tastes
of the urban and cos-
mopolitan gourmets
of the 21st century?
What once was carried
by hunters in Siberia
during expeditions and
boiled in melted snow, is today served to food snobs!
The traditional meat is replaced by unusual, savory fill-
ings such as vegetables, berries, all kinds of seafood
and cheese –adapting old recipes to the current
worldly demand of vegetarianism. The Russian kitchen
is one that is subjected to several cultural influences,
traditional peculiarities and, most importantly, one that
always amazes you with its new variations.
June - July 2018 25
 Restaurants
“My mother’s favourite flower” is the most famous dessert of the Cococo restaurant
and probably one of the best in St. Petersburg. Read more below. (с) Photo by Ksenia Elzes
St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative
and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional
Russian to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a ta-
ble, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many
restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours
of the evening, so make early reservations if you want
some peace and quiet. Tip for good service only - 10%
is considered fair.
Our price guide is based on the average price of
a main course:
€ - 0 - 300Rbl €€ 300 - 700Rbl
€€€ 700 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus
RUSSIAN AND UKRAINIAN
Traditional Russian cuisine is rich and hearty peasant fare.
A lot of weight is given to winter-proof root vegetables,
stewed meat and fatty dairy products. The dark green
herb dill (ukrop) is sprinkled in abundance on many dish-
es. Classic dishes include Bliny (pancakes) served with
ham (vechina), caviar (ikra), cheese (syr), or as a dessert
with vareniye (chunky, sweet fruit preserve), or honey
(myod) and tvorog (sweet cottage cheese). Expect to see
a lot of soups on the menu too, such as Borshch (beetroot
soup), shchi (cabbage soup) or Ukha (a clear fish soup).
Salads are very popular here and almost always come
with mayonnaise. And of course we can’t forget pelmeny
(dumplings), a Russian dinner staple usually filled with
minced meat and served with a dollop of smetana (Rus-
sian-style sour cream).
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child-friendly W Wifi
V Home delivery L Guarded parking
G Take note that it is not allowed to smoke
in the restaurants and cafes in Russia
26 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
BANSCHIKI
Banshchiki is a place where nostalgia of Russian food mix-
es with new and innovative cooking methods. All meat
smoking, bread baking, vegetable pickling and pelmeni
making is done in house. While some dishes stay true to
their original recipes, other beloved classics get a new and
exciting twist (think vareniki with suluguni cheese, cot-
tage cheese and herbs or blini with venison and cowberry
jam) from chef Stanislav Levokho. Natural materials and
warm colors give the sense of being in a real Leningrad
dacha without leaving the city center.QF-3, Degtyarnaya
ul. 1A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 921 941 17 44, www.
banshiki.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00,
Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW
CAVIAR BAR AND RESTAURANT
Caviar is a hallmark in Russian gastronomic culture, yet
this is the only restaurant dedicated to this unique special-
ity. Boasting a dozen types of caviar and more than fifty kinds
of vodka, the Caviar Bar will ignite the taste buds. Not forget-
ting the perfect accompaniment to caviar - champagne, the
bar has collaborated with the best champagne houses to
keep the bubbles flowing. Enjoy a caviar tasting conducted
by a vodka sommelier and experience Russian culinary cul-
ture at its most elegant.QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Eu-
rope, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
329 66 51, +7 812 329 66 22, www.caviar-bar.com. Open
17:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Tue. €€€€. PALEW
COCOCO
Founded by Sergey Shnurov, the frontman of the ska-punk
band Leningrad, and his wife Matilda, this restaurant is just
a short walk from the St. Isaac’s Cathedral and worth the
small detour. Here you can try a wide variety of real Russian
cuisine, which is made using local farm products, as well
as homemade fruit drinks (in interesting flavours, such as
pumpkin), lemonade, and organic wine. The meals are well
presented, and wholesome, including dishes such acorns
tiramisu and thistle soup.QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAd-
miralteyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 418 20 60, www.kokoko.spb.
ru/en/. Open for breakfast 07:00 - 11:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 -
12:00, lunch and dinner 14:00 - 01:00. €€€. PASW
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
Restaurants
F.M. DOSTOEVSKY
F.M. Dostoevsky is an elegant restaurant focusing on home
style Russian cuisine. The atmosphere is chic and comfort- Try the real Russian cuisine
able at the same time. Candles on the tables, soft lighting and in the restaurant
F.M.DOSTOEVSKIY
crisp tablecloths give this place a warm and friendly glow. F.M.
Dostoevsky serves Russian classics, so don’t miss their famous
Beef Stroganoff and try one of the beautifully presented des-
erts.QE-3, Author Boutique Hotel, Vladimirsky pr. 9, MV- Enjoy an incredible
ladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 22 44, www.authorhotel.ru. gastronomic journey.
Open 12:00 - 23:30. €€€. PALSW
PUSHKARSKI
New Russian cuisine is becoming more and more popular
as a generation of young and daring Russian chefs begin
experimenting with local/regional ingredients and differ-
ent cooking methods and Pushkarski is the latest addition
to this growing culinary trend. For example, as a starter
we’d recommend the Far Eastern scallops with coconut
cream and carrot marmalade served atop a salty meringue
(550Rbl). Follow that up with one of the creative takes on
traditional Russian soups like ukha (fish soup) with baked "F.M.Dostoevsky" presents
milk, borsch baked in the oven with smoked sour cream. the Renaissance of Russian cuisine.
The Murmansk halibut with a celery mousse and mullet Feel the Russian hospitality!
caviar (850Rbl) is a very worthy main. You can see all this
prepared in the open kitchen. The portions are very gener-
ous. In terms of interior, there aren’t that many overtly Rus-
sian elements to it, although some samovars and traditional
ceramics pop all over the place.QC-1, Bol. Pushkarskaya
ul. 38, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 921 943 38 38, www.
pushkarski.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PASW
RUSSKAYA RYUMOCHNAYA NO.1
Typically, a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, spit-and-sawdust
kind of a place where working men wash down cheap
vodka with salty snacks. This sophisticated fin-de-siècle
inspired place is as far away from that kind of establish-
Special set of 15 dishes and drinks.
ment as you can imagine. This is Russian food fit for tsars,
Taste "Russian miniature"!
complete with black caviar and reindeer meat. The historic
dishes are rich and well made, making this a very recom-
mended introduction to Russian cuisine. They also have
possibly the biggest vodka list we’ve ever seen, as well as
a vodka museum!QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAd-
miralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 64 20, www.vodkaroom.
ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PAESW
THE REPA
The restaurant interior is a magical combination of fairy
tale design fused with modernism - picture colourful mu-
rals next to contemporary works of art. The name gives
away the concept of the cuisine, as Repa is the Russian for
turnip, which was a staple of Soviet cuisine. Chef Igor Zorin We have a completely new approach
combines old and new in his culinary art, using authentic to making desserts. What do you see?
Jewels? Or maybe stones?... Try it out!
products to make truly unique cuisine. Ginza project som-
melier Denis Mikhailov offers an exceptional collection of
Russian wines to complement the exquisite gastronomy
Vladimirsky pr. 9
at The Repa.QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 18/10, MSennaya pl.,
tel. (+7) 812 640 16 16, www.ginza.ru/spb/restaurant/
tel: +7 (812) 334 22 44
www.authorhotel.ru dostoevskyfm.com
therepa. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. €€€.
PASW
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket June - July 2018 27
 Restaurants
VKUS EST
Located along a quiet stretch of the Fontanka, with only
the Bolshoi Drama Theater as company, Vkus Yest deserves
to have more trade than it will probably ever get - a shame
because both the atmosphere and the food are deserving of
serious attention. Serving new Russian cuisine - simple, local
ingredients prepared to traditional recipes with a twist - Vkust
Yest has a lot going for it. The 1970s-style interior is also worth
mentioning, including black-painted metal detailing, pol-
ished concrete, comfy camel-coloured leather cushions on
the banquettes and huge windows that offer great views of
the canal.QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 82, MDostoevskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 983 33 76, www.tastetoeat.ru. Open 13:00 -
23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00 €€. PASW
ASIAN
AZIA
AZIA is located in the Belmond Grand Hotel Europe
where St. Petersburg’s oldest prestige hotel looks out
onto Nevsky prospekt. This is pan-Asian cuisine in its
truest sense, taking in the “3 Asias”: Southern, South-
Eastern and Central. Given the arsenal of over 150 spices
at its command, expect a varied menu, which in spite
of its geographical reach is organised not by where the
dish is from, but rather how it is prepared. Specialities
include Singapore-style crab with chilli peppers, Peking
Duck with pancakes and Crispy Eggplant Salad. AZIA also
boasts a bewildering range of desserts and, naturally, a
separate sushi zone. The Far East-inspired décor, blending
warm woods with sleek stainless steel, creates a sophis-
ticated ambience for a sense-igniting experience.QD-3,
Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 62 00, www.belmond.
com/grandhoteleurope. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat
12:00 - 01:00. €€€€. PALSW
TYPICAL CAUCASIAN
DISHES
Khachapuri - cheese stuffed bread. Sometimes served
with open with an egg on top (po azharsky)
Khinkali - giant dumplings, usually stuffed with meat
and spices, eaten by hand
Lobio - spiced bean stew with herbs, served hot or cold
Pkhali - spinach paste with nuts
Satsivi - chicken in a creamy nut sauce, served cold
Chakhokhbili - Spiced chicken stew
28 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
CHINA GRAMOTA
China Gramota Bar & Food  is spread over three floors.
The summer terrace delights guests with a breathtaking
view of some of St. Petersburg’s most iconic sights from
a rooftop. In the kitchen, all cooks follow the Guanzhou
cooking style set by head chef Zhang Xianchin: food is
either prepared within one minute over a strong flame
or for more than two hours over a weak flame. Deli-
cious and original signature cocktails make up the “Bar”
component of the restaurant’s name.QD-2, Nab. reky
Moiky 7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 907 07 10, www.
chinagramota.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
01:00. €€€. P A S W
MOSKVA - PEKIN
Got a special occasion coming up, need to impress a busi-
ness partner or are you simply craving some good Chi-
nese? Situated in the Lukoil building on the scenic Aptek-
arskaya Embankment Moskva-Pekin is just the place. Hold
an event of any size in one of the elegantly extravagant
dining halls: the main one, the banquet hall, the big VIP
room or the small one. The menu is divided in two – Chi-
nese and European. At the helm of the chinese kitchen
is Gao Chaoyan and virtually every ingredient that goes
into one of his dishes comes directly from China. A must
is the “Buddha Jumps Over The Wall” soup (a favorite of
the Chinese emperors) and prawns with lotus roots. The
wine card is impressive, the service impeccable and the
atmosphere luxurious. But be prepared to spend a small
fortune!QD-1, Aptekarskaya nab. 8, MPetrogradskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 775 10 00, www.moskvapekin.com. Open
12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PASW
SUBZERO
Another great place for fans of Japanese food and good
drinks to satiate their thirst and hunger on Rubinshteina
Street. The menu is chock full of all the goodness you’d ex-
pect to find at a Japanese restaurant: sashimi, tataki, spring
rolls, rolls, ramen, salmon, miso soup, as well as a few pan-
Asian classics like Pho soup, Tom Yum and duck. Wash it
down with one of the more than 30 types of wine on offer
(starting from 300Rbl for a glass). Or go for a beer or one of
the incredible Asian-inspired signature cocktails.QE-3, Ul.
Rubinshteina 38, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 907 64
38, www.subzerosushi.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW
SUKI / GO TO HEALTH
This aesthetic sushi bar is unlike most other pseudo-Japa-
nese eateries that have been popular in St. Petersburg for
what feels like forever by now. The atmosphere is more
nautical Scandinavian than Japanese, with wooden pan-
els, light brick walls, sea-washed wooden furniture and
classical music playing. The founder and head chef Ekateri-
na Bokucheva has her own signature take on the usual rolls
that we’ve all become accustomed to. For example, the
“Oksana” roll comes with scallop, avocado, tobiko, salmon
and mango sauce and the “California on the Boarder with
Mexico” roll is an original take on the normal “California”
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
roll but with the use of jalapeno sauce. There are also less
creative options on the menu for those who are not into
experimenting. Be ready that your sushi will cost about
two times more than at most other Japanese joints but
the quality is definitely worth it.QC-2, Syezzhinskaya ul.
37, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 405 87 52. Open 11:00 -
23:00. €€. PASW
CAUCASIAN
CHECHIL
At Chechil, the true Georgian national character starts
from the very first step inside, under the watchful eye
of the Georgian shepherds in the painting adorning the
walls. Real plants sprawl over the ceiling, copper kitchen-
ware glistens around the open kitchen and big fat jars are
stuffed with all sorts of pickled yumminess. A great variety
of Georgia’s regions are presented in the menu: Kakhetian
khashlama, Adzharian style zucchini, Megrelian khacha-
puri and Ratchian pro ribs are just some of the examples
of Georgia’s tastiness. But guests must be careful not to
overeat and leave room for dessert. Classics like tender
ginger cake and fluff y Napolean cake are accompanied
by humorous desserts like sweet carbonara or chocolate
pine cones.QF-2, Degtyarny per. 2, MPl. Vosstaniya,
tel. (+7) 812 640 16 16, www.ginza.ru/spb/restaurant/
chechil. Open 08:30 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€.
PASW
KHACHAPURI & VINO
This Georgian cafe on a quiet corner of Sotsialisticheskaya
ul. executes its chic concept well while remaining laid-
back and warm. Bleached walls, bronze accents and wo-
ven patterns hit all the right cultural notes, and the menu
also doesn’t make any compromises, offering exclusively
classic Georgian fare (except for a mysterious “Georgian
Snickers”). Here you can try everything from the salty
mineral water Borjomi, a range of leavened khachapuri,
and pomegranate wine, and get a solid dose of the spice
adzhiki, fresh herbs and beans in this cuisine. The prices
and atmosphere make this a great place for students.
QE-3, Ul. Pravdy 9, MZvenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 952
232 25 43. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. €.
PASW
MAMALYGA
Just a stones throw from Nevsky, this restaurant offers you
an assortment of food from the Caucasus region, including
Georgian, Imeretian, Armenian, Adzharian, Megrelian, and
the cuisine of Swaneti and Guria. Authenticity is a word
that the owners use quite often to describe their food and
it comes through in the food that is prepared by local (to
the region) cooks. The menu features a mix of well-spiced
(the food is not watered down for local consumption)
shashliks, salads, khachapuri, and pretty much anything
else you could want from the South Caucasus.QD-3, Ka-
zanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 640 16 16,
www.mamaliga-mamaliga.com. Open 10:00 - 01:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTAVESW
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Restaurants
O DA! EDA!
21.07 - 22.07
This multi-city festival travels throughout Russia boast-
ing the largest federal gastronomic festival. O, da! Eda!
(Oh yeah! Food!) brings together thousands of people to
celebrate gastronomy with plenty of food, art and music.
The festival is one of the greatest gastronomic events in
Europe, in which the best cafes and restaurants of the city
participate. During the two days of the competition they
compete to offer the best and most surprising treats. In
addition, master classes will be held where chefs of the
best restaurants reveal their secrets; special lectures on
the secrets of the restaurant business also take place. The
younger guests can learn how to make simple, delicious
and very beautiful dishes with their own hands.QB-1, Pri-
morsky Victory Park, Krestovsky pr. 21, MKrestovsky
ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 230 04 56, www.spb.odaeda.me.
FINE DINING
EM RESTAURANT
It’s open only for dinner. There are a few tables, one waiter and
two chefs who prepare their unique signature dishes right in
front of you in the open kitchen. The chefs Olesya Drobot and
Viktoria Mosina love nature and almost every weekend they
go to the forests of Leningrad region to find unusual ingredi-
ents such as mushrooms or herbs and to visit the farms where
they get the products. The menu changes once a month and
you can check it out online beforehand. Vegans will be happy
too as EM offers a special vegan set. Don’t forget to make a
reservation.QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 84, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 921 960 21 77, www.emrestaurant.ru. Open 20:00
- 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. PA
PALKIN
Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back
to 1785. Although restoration did take place, the interior
is as sophisticated and tasteful as it was in Imperial times,
which adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a
meal in some rich aristocrat’s home. The menu is bursting
with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar
and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes
from a bygone era. They also offer a seasonal five-course
special menu with specially selected wines, themed
around a different wine-growing region of the world.
Booking in advance is recommended.QE-3, Nevsky pr.
47, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.
palkin.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PAESW
June - July 2018 29
 Restaurants
VOX
On the corner of the delightfully walkable Solyanoy per. and
ul. Pestelya, VOX has a top-notch location. It’s the perfect
place to sip coffee while watching the mixed crowds go by,
from local art students to wandering tourists. The interior is
equally impressive with its dim light, white linens and black
and white photographs. The pastas are all hand-made in-
house and are particularly authentic, although anything
you opt for should delight your tastebuds. It goes without
saying, the wine list is a careful selection of fine vintages
that will perfectly augment your meal.QE-2, Solyanoy per.
16, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 14 69, www.
voxresto.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTASW
FISH AND SEAFOOD
BURGER&CRAB
Already during its “soft launch” this casual food eatery on
the vibrant Rubinshteyn Street was packed, packed, packed!
Crab and burgers are, as you might have already guessed, the
name of the game here. The democratically-priced menu is
divided into crab dishes (crab bisque, crab tom yum, several
light and not so light salads, main dishes like crab ravioli and
crab fettuccine with curry paste) and ten types of burgers
(typical as well as signature ones like lamb burger with soft
cheese and pickles or hanger steak burger with chimichurri
sauce. The wine card is impressive – and very affordable, as
is the assortment of craft beers and cocktails. The upstairs
area is great for a quick bite and the downstairs hall is per-
fect for a longer, relaxed meal with great wine and company.
QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 40, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7)
812 906 24 06, www.burgerandcrab.ru/en/. Open 12:00 -
01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PASW
CRAB STORY
This place is aptly called Crab Story and the menu consists
of good quality seafood (think Kamchatka crab, scallops,
prawns and calamari) and Far Eastern cooking traditions,
where Russian culinary sensitivities are intertwined with
Asian ones. Enjoy delicious dishes like the signature crab
burger, the Thai Tom Yum soup, the Primorsky style plaice
and many more in a relaxed atmosphere and without break-
ing the bank.QE-3, Razyezzhaya ul. 12, MVladimirskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 908 02 88, www.crabstory.ru. Open 12:00 -
23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW
RUSSKAYA RYBALKA
Munching on a fresh just-caught (by you!) fish in a cot-
tage-style dining room feels like a true Russian experience.
Located on Krestovsky Island, which becomes trendier by
the year, this is an excellent place to finish a lovely stroll
and to enjoy some traditional Russian dining. If you prefer
not to see your dinner alive, you don’t need to catch the
fish yourself, but if you can stomach it, give it a try! The
large menu offers many Russian classics, such as sturgeon,
but also delicious vodka snacks, salads and cold starters.
QB-1, Yuzhnaya doroga 11, MRusskaya Rybalka, tel.
(+7) 812 323 98 13, www.russian-fishing.ru. Open 12:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PASW
30 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Restaurants
YOUNGA SEAFOOD&BAR
Younga Seafood & Bar is a democratically priced seafood
restaurant specialising on fish and seafood from Crimea,
Murmansk, Karelia and the Far East. Traditional fish dishes
share the menu with signature recipes; steamed bao buns
with crab meat, Black Sea rapan julienne or alder smoked
prawns. There’s no shortage of good white wines to go
along with your meal and the wine menu is divided into
three sections to make navigation easier: “Summer Garden”
features southern and Russian wines, “Raise Your Sails” is for
those who like fresh and sour sorts and “When You Want
Fruit” is all about the sweeter wines.QE-3, Ul. Rubinsh-
teina 23, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 926 66 46, www.
youngaseafood.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
02:00. €€. PASW
INTERNATIONAL
ARKA
The soft lighting, exposed brick and sky-lights create a chic,
yet cosy ambience where you can sit and forget about life for
a while. A 13-meter bar and an impressive selection of un-
usual cocktails make it an ideal place to meet up with friends
or business partners for after-work, or pre-going out drinks.
The menu includes a grill section with sets that are meant
to be shared, as well as other traditional dishes prepared in
an untraditional way, like the cappuccino mushroom cream
soup. And at weekends their kitchen is open until 06:00 in
the morning! The prices are reasonable compared to similar
high-class bars and you are guaranteed to leave with a good
impression.  QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 27, MNevsky JUNGLE GASTROBAR KOMPANIYA MOSKOVSKY
pr., tel. (+7) 812 339 89 39, www.arka.spb.ru. Open 12:00 - Real jungle in the St. Petersburg’s well courtyard next to Two-storied gastrobar with panoramic windows,
02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAESW the Kazan Cathedral. Here you can try their famous all- open kitchen, European and Asian cuisine and drinks
day-long breakfast (every day from 08:00 till 16:00) and from all around the world. It is a perfect place to hang
GASTROBAR KOMPANIYA for lunch and dinner you can get a rare taste experience out with your friends. The menu includes modern
A cozy gastronomic bar in Petrogradsky district with a with a Pan-Asian accent. The menu consists of chef’s European dishes and the best examples of Pan-Asian
menu full of gastronomically interesting and non-trivial interpretations of popular dishes: ahi poke, pad thai, cuisine: spicy soups, dim-sums and spring rolls. The
dishes that don’t break the bank. They also carefully and ramen, bibimbap, spring rolls. The wine list is all about drinks list offers an extensive range of wine and craft
thoughtfully picked out amazing wines and craft beer. classics  and  natural wines and they also have amazing beer.QMoskovsky pr. 206, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7)
There is a special offer during the World Cup - home homemade lemonades.QD-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 921 938 07 08, www.kompaniyaspb.ru. Open 12:00
burger and two pints of craft beer for 999 rubles. Above 18-20, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 917 12 34, www. - 24:00. €€. P A W S V E
the bar there’s a special balcony where the DJs ascend junglecafe.ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00. €€. P A W
on Fridays and Saturdays to give your evening that ex- KUZNYA
tra kick.QC-1, Ordinarnaya ul. 19, MPetrogradskaya, HAMLET & JACKS In an era of network connectivity and the ability to work
tel. (+7) 812 997 12 34, www.kompaniyaspb.ru. Open Hamlet & Jacks restaurant, located in a former jewelry from anywhere, this kind of place can easily become a
09:00 - 24:00. €€. P A W E workshop, is place to wine, dine and enjoy people watch- “second home”. In today’s world, restaurants and clubs
ing. The menu is divided into three sections: “Ours” with have long since shifted their focus from what used to be
GASTROLI dishes prepared using only local produce; “Ours + Theirs” the core of their primary functions – to feed and to en-
This conceptual restaurant provides a fantastic social with an emphasis on fresh, innovative and artistically pre- tertain. Kuznya House is the sort of place where you can
space for the urban sophisticate. On the menu you will sented food from all corners of the planet; and “Not Ours”. spend practically their whole day: conducting meetings,
find chef’s interpretations of the recipes collected all Pair your meal with a glass of biodynamic wine from ar- hanging out, working, listening to music, or taking in lec-
around the globe: various tartars and ceviches, dishes pre- tisan producers.QD-2, Volynsky per. 2, MNevsky pr., tures or film screenings – and, of course, having something
pared in the Josper and a lot of interesting deserts. And tel. (+7) 812 907 07 35, www.hamletandjacks.ru. Open delicious to eat and drink in a stylishly grungy ambiance.
the wine list here is fantastic: try their organic and biody- 13:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 02:00. €€. PAW On weekends the main dining hall is cleared of furniture
namic wines, classic and signature cocktails. This place is and DJs get behind the decks for some of the coolest par-
perfect for an intimate romantic date, or otherwise a fam- Fore more restaurants reviews ties in the Northern Capital.QС-3, Nab. Admiralteiskogo
ily outing.QE-2, Ul. Pestelya 7, MChernyshevskaya, tel. check out our website kan. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 911 921 16 69, www.
(+7) 812 919 07 08, www.gastrolirest.ru. Open 09:00 - newhollandsp.ru/foundry. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 18:00
24:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. €€. PAW
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg - 06:00, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PESW
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket June - July 2018 31
 Restaurants
ROOFTOP TERRACES
Summer is here! And lucky you - there are literally hun-
dreds of places to hang out al fresco and enjoy the sun.
Here we’ve picked out what we think are some of the
city’s best roof top terraces and bars where you can not
only enjoy fantastic views and the unbridled sunshine
but also try some very delicious food and fresh sum-
mer drinks!
Block Restaurant
CHINA GRAMOTA
QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 907 07 10, www.chinagramota.ru. Open 12:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PASW
BELLEVUE BRASSERIE
QD-2, Kempinski Hotel Moika 22, Nab. Reky Moiky
22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.
kempinski.com/ru/st-petersburg/hotel-moika-22/.
Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€€€. PAW
BLOK
QE-2, Leningrad Center, Potyomkinskaya ul. 4,
MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 415 40 40, www.
blok.restaurant. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€€€. PT
ESW
BOLSHAYA KUKHNYA
QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30a,
MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 984 04 84, www.big-
kitchen.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAL
ESW
MOSKVA
QE-3, Nevsky Centre Shopping Centre, Nevsky pr.
114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 640 16 16, www.
moskvavpitere.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue,
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAVSW
TERRASSA
 QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 3a, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 640 16 16, www.terrassa.ru. Open 11:00 -
01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. P T A V
ESW
MAKARONNIKI
QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel.
(+7) 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTASW
32 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
KVARTIRA KOSTI KREUTZA
The latest trend to hit St. Petersburg’s restaurant scene -
and is probably here to stay - are “secret” restaurants which
not just about anyone can access. Kvartira Kosti Kreutza
(or simply Kreuz Flat) is a restaurant and tea room situated
inside THE most expensive St. Petersburg apartment and
access to which is only possible with a virtual key that you
can apply for online. “Travel food” is the name of the game
at Kreuz Flat, where the menu consists of some of the
owner’s favorite dishes from his travels around the world.
The tea room is styled as a Buddhist datsan temple and
tea is treated as deity rather than a drink.QE-3, Nevsky
pr. 71, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 921 651 77 88, www.
kreutzflat.com. Open 24hrs. €€€. PAW
MECHTATELI
Located along the banks of Fontanka river, “Mechtateli” is
about to become an unavoidable gastronomic place in St.
Petersburg. This modest sized café offers creative dishes
with products that are typical of different culinary tradi-
tions, and has an extensive coffee menu. The attentive
team can make you different sorts of coffee and also pro-
vide you with a short course about coffee. Wine amators
will be happy too: choice of fifty different wine at the best
quality/price ratio and the most representative of the en-
tire wine world!QE-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 921 761 31 55, www.thedreamerscafe.ru.
Open 08:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW
PEDRO & GOMEZ AT LARISA’S
From Mexico to Asia, this cafe-bar serves up street food
from all corners of the world. The main menu is constantly
changing but always features 20 dishes; the portions are
not big so it’s great for ordering a few and sharing. A Josper
oven is the king of the kitchen, cooking to perfection bread,
oysters, mussels, meat and much more. Sound tempting?
Make sure to book a table before heading over to Pedro &
Gomez at Larisa’s because it’s already become the talk of the
town and an empty table is not easy to come by!QE-3, Ul.
Rubinshteina 29, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 921 903 44
90, www.facebook.com/pedroandgomezatlarisa. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 05:00, Sun
14:00 - 24:00. €. PASW
TERRASSA
Terrassa features an open kitchen, stylish interior and won-
derful views from the sixth floor that almost make you feel
like you’re in the sky. The menu is almost shockingly gar-
gantuan: each turn of the page is like discovering a new
restaurant. A short list of the cuisines on offer includes
Georgian, Russian, Thai, pan-Asian, sushi, pastas, pizzas,
salads, seafood, and soups: you name it and they seem-
ingly have it on the menu. The wine list is also extensive
and features an elite wine section with bottles priced up to
290,000Rbl. The resident DJs make this restaurant almost
feel like a club, but the music is not overpowering.  QD-3,
Kazanskaya ul. 3a, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 640 16 16,
www.terrassa.ru. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 -
01:00. €€€. PTAVESW
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
ITALIAN
CAFFE ITALIA
The cheerful and charming décor, with checked tablecloths,
sunny yellow walls and Uffizi catalogues on the bookshelves,
already puts this café above the standard casual Italian bistro.
On offer is a diverse range of authentic pasta dishes, pizzas,
starters and paninis. The mozzarella stretches about a ki-
lometer and the imported olive oil is positively succulent. If
you can restrain yourself, the gorgeously presented desserts
are worth the effort and the wine list is a spot-on selection
of almost exclusively dry Italian vintages that won’t break
the bank.QF-3, Pr. Bakunina 5, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7)
812 905 64 74, www.vk.com/caffeitaliaspb. Open 09:00 -
02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. €. PENSW
FORNO BRAVO
Pizza and beer lovers should head over to Forno Bravo, a new
pizza bar on Lva Tolstogo Square in the heart of the Petrograd
part of the city! San Marzano tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, the
very best cheeses, fresh Italian ingredients and a wood oven
straight from Naples is a pretty good guarantee that you will
be fully satisfied with your pizza. The selection of wine and
craft beers will please even the most demanding guests.
QD-1, Pl. Lva Tolstogo 1, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812
234 43 50, www.beercard.ru/forno-bravo. Open 12:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €. PASW
JAMIE’S ITALIAN
Admirers of the legendary chef Jamie Oliver should except
the usual high standards of cuisine and service. The pasta
is made from Italian flour and farm eggs and is prepared
right before your eyes, while the rustic bread is made ac-
cording to original recipes and is baked in special ovens.
The wine list is mainly Italian, and almost every wine is
available by the glass. Lovers of a festive atmosphere are
exactly the type of people this place has in mind – it is
quite noisy, with a lot of visitors, a large team of servers,
and cooks hard at work in the open kitchen.QD-2, Kony-
ushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 640 16 16,
www.jamieoliver.com/italian/russia/st-petersburg.
Open 12:00 until the last guest. €€. PTAVSW
STEAKS AND BURGERS
BEEFZAVOD
With a name like Beefzavod (zavod translates from Russian
as factory), you can pretty much know what to expect:
meat, meat and more meat. The man behind the project
is Maxim Torganov, a studious pupil of Dario Cecchini, the
Tuscan butcher that preaches the “nose to nail” ethical ap-
proach to animals. No part of the animals goes to waste,
so expect to see things like beef tongue carpaccio on the
menu. It is worth mentioning that most restaurants are un-
able to offer dry aged steaks, but Beefzavod do. The interi-
or is executed in a chic grunge fashion, as is so fashionable
these days.QD-1, Aptekarsky pr. 2, MPetrogradskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 456 06 95, www.beefzavod.com. Open
12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PASW
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Restaurants
FRANK
If you are a big fan of “House of Cards” and if good, hon-
est street food is your vibe, then Frank: Ribs and Rolls bar
is made for you. Founded by four friends who wanted to
create a menu based on good quality meat that is quick and
delicious. Sample the juicy ribs, beef, lamb and pork or one
of the fresh salads or try the colourful shwarma wraps, pre-
pared just as you like them. The interior resembles a typical
American backyard, with a big barbeque roasting meat 24
hours a day. Come along for tasty food and creative cocktails
- it will be right up your street.QC-1, PS, Bolshoy pr. 35a,
MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 921 925 65 25, www.vk.com/
frankmeat. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €. PAW
MYASOET
Turkish kebabs and
burgers on the main
restaurant street of St.
Petersburg. MYASOET is
a meat restaurant with
minimalistic design and
laconic menu: there are
only two types of kebabs
and six kinds of burgers.
All with an unusually big
portion of meat, which
roast level you can choose yourself. Dishes are prepared
only from beef and lamb, with lots of Oriental spices. Also
at 7-ya liniya 42.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 2, MMayakovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 416 01 01, www.myasoet.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €. PAS
OPEN 24 HOURS
DU NORD
QE-3, Oktyabrskaya Hotel, Ligovsky pr. 41/83,
MPl. Vosstanniya, tel. (+7) 812 578 12 45, www.
dunord.spb.ru. €. PAESW
KHOCHU KHARCHO
QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSadovaya, tel. (+7)
812 640 16 16, www.ginza.ru/spb/restaurant/
hochu_harcho. €€. PTAVESW
KVARTIRA KOSTI KREUTZA
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 71, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 921
651 77 88, www.kreutzflat.com. €€€. PAW
MARCELLIS
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
984 41 44, www.marcellis.ru. €€. PTASW
PIROGI
QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 275 35 58, www.piterogi.ru. €. PAESW
PRYANOSTI & RADOSTI BELINSKOGO
QE-2, Ul. Belinskogo 5, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 640 16 16, www.ginza.ru/spb. PASW
TAVERNA GROLLE
QC-2, VO, Bolshoy pr. 20, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 323 62 58, www.grolle.ru. €€. PTA
ESW
June - July 2018 33
 Restaurants
SMOKE BBQ
Smoke BBQ is a restaurant for meat lovers specializing in Tex-
as-style barbecue. It’s got the only meat smoking machine
from Dallas in all of Russia which is used to prepare pork ribs,
a signature brisket and homemade sausages. Also, here you
can savor “Prime” steaks as well as juicy burgers. The bar
offers 20 sorts of local and American beer and a collection
of bourbons and Russian wines. Inside, the vibe is that of
a typical classical American diner: bare concrete walls, red
leather couches and stylish Texas flag panel made out of
beer cans.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 11, MDostoevskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 905 53 72, www.beercard.ru/smokebbq.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00,
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€€. PASW
STROGANOFF STEAKHOUSE
If steak is your thing, a visit to this deluxe ranchhouse,
perfect for the modern sophisticated cattleman, is sure
to satisfy. The rich leather upholstery, the green bank-
ers lamps, the sepia pictures from the bygone era are
nothing compared to the delicious food. The steaks
are the main attraction, but the buffalo wings and ev-
erything else on the menu are also worthy support acts
to the main steak event.QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul.
4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 55 14, www.
stroganoff steakhouse.ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00. €€€€.
PTAESW
VEGETARIAN
BOTANIKA
Excellent vegetarian food including outstanding salads
(try the tabouleh), great pasta and filling soups. Reminis-
cent of a Victorian dining parlour with greenery scattered
with a touch of a 70s wholefood cafe. The interior sports
three calming tones of green, there are pumpkins and
flowers strewn around and the sofas are soft. The walls are
adorned with hip large-scale photographic prints.QE-2,
Ul. Pestelya 7, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272
70 91, www.botanika.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€.
PTASW
UKROP
This quaint vegetarian cafe is a nice place to relax and
grab a healthy meal that won’t break the bank. On the
first floor there is a counter where you can order already
prepared food for a quick bite and on the second floor
is a full-service restaurant. Its interior with books on the
windowsills, green plants and waterfalls creates a refresh-
ing atmosphere that leaves you relaxed when you leave.
The friendly waiters bring complimentary mint water to
each guest and explain the menu, which includes veg-
etarian, vegan and raw food options. And, for those of
you who are artistically inclined, feel free to draw with
the coloured pencils that sit on each table! Also at Mal.
Konyushennaya ul. 14, ul. Vosstaniya 47 and 7-ya liniya
30.QE-3, Ul. Marata 23, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812
946 30 36, www.cafe-ukrop.ru. Open 09:00 - 23:00. €.
PTASW
34 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
ZELENY SAD
As the name suggests (translated as “green garden”), this
establishment is all about health and goodness. Zeleny Sad
is a really cozy vegetarian/vegan and health food restaurant,
organic goods shop and a flower store just off Bolshoy Pros-
pekt. The menu is rather long so even the most picky eat-
ers will be able to find something to their liking. Of course
there’s no lack of salads but the head chef decided to give
some traditional mayonnaise and meat-heavy salads like Ol-
ivier or Ceasar a fun, vegan twist. There’s a wide assortment
of vegan and even raw vegan pizzas, pastas and lasagnas, as
well as a few fish and seafood options. It’s a great place for
breakfast as well with things like smoothie bowls, healthy
oats and eggs on offer.QC-1, Izhorskaya ul. 3, MCh-
kalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 903 53 43, www.facebook.com/
greengardenspb/. Open 09:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW
WINE RESTAURANTS
BIG WINE FREAKS
Big Wine Freaks takes wine to a whole new level with the
widest assortment of biodynamic wines and craft cham-
pagne in St. Petersburg! Of course if you’d like to stick to
something more traditional, there’s a very good variety of
your Rieslings, Pinot Noirs and co. from Russia and abroad.
The food component mostly consists of snacks suitable
for wine drinking but a few heartier mains do feature on
the menu. In the evenings a live DJ enhances the spirit
of this bohemian, hip joint.QD-1, Instrumentalnaya ul.
3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 921 938 60 63, www.
facebook.com/bigwinefreaks. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 18:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW
DO IMMIGRATION
Another addition to St. Petersburg’s burgeoning wine bar
scene, Do Immigration skips the pretentiousness that goes
along with being in this scene and makes even the most
discerning wine connoisseurs to broaden their horizons.
It’s definitely not expensive to try out more than 30 types
of wines with prices per glass starting at just 200Rbl. The
food menu boasts the usual wine snacks: crackers, cheese,
prosciutto, olives, sandwiches and on certain days there’s
even a grill grilling away on the wine bar’s rooftop.QE-2,
Ul. Vosstaniya 24, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 981
986 98 26, www.facebook.com/do.immigration. Open
18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. €€. PNW
WONG KAR WINE
A small cozy cafe with Pan-Asian food and a carefully crafted
wine menu that pairs fantastically with Thai and Vietnamese
dishes. Signature beverages such as homemade lemonade
and sea buck thorn tea also deserve a taste! We especially rec-
ommend this place to those who don’t like loud and crowded
restaurants. After lunch don’t forget to order a cup of aromatic
Vietnamese robusta coffee with condensed milk! Entrance is
through the archway opposite the Chizhik Pizhik statue.QE-2,
Nab. reky Fontanky 14, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 19
30, www.vk.com/wongkarwine. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PASW
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
Palace Bridge
The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat,
drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit
jazz halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground
music scene. On a night out in this wild town, you’ll find
unique performances and eccentric people everywhere!
Admission prices, where applicable, follow opening hours
details.
BARS AND PUBS
BAR 8
No surprises here – this is a wine bar! And a very cool
and atmospheric one at that. The space is very small
and dim, perfect for those intimate heart-to-heart can-
dlelit all-nighters or, once the weekend comes around,
mingling and grooving until the wee hours. Sometimes
there are live bands, sometimes winemakers from for-
eign lands pop in for a visit. One thing’s for sure, it’s
never boring here. It probably isn’t the cheapest you’ll
find in this neighbourhood but it is of high quality and
very interesting. Food-wise you’re looking at a basic
menu of olives, sundried tomatoes and cheese. Time
for Wine is definitely a must for wine lovers.QD-1, Ul.
Lenina 8, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 921 904 76 60,
www.facebook.com/bar8timeforwine/. Open 18:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. €€. P A
SW
DEAD POETS
A popular expat favourite. Trendy in a grown-up way,
it’s fairly quiet, allowing for both liquor and conversa-
tion to flow freely. The liquor is also very good! Over 80
whiskies, a selection of rock-solid cocktails and rotat-
ing house-infused vodkas are amongst the beverages
on offer. Cosy lighting gives the bar an intimate feel.
Dead Poets also hosts a number of interesting talks and
events, many in English; keep an eye on their website
for details.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 12, MMayakovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 46 56, www.deadpoetsbar.
com. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 08:00. €€.
PASW
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Nightlife
FIDDLER’S GREEN
The term “Fiddler’s Green” refers to a sailor’s paradise,
and indeed this pub has a merry, maritime feel. Bottles of
Jameson’s, Laphroaig and Jack Daniels sit on the shelves,
and signs like “Nobody’s perfect except the Captain” and
“No Bloody Swearing” decorate the walls. The bar is the
center of attention: the bartenders have a lot of space dis-
play their craft, mix drinks and talk to customers. Check the
menu before you go inside: Fiddler’s Green is unique for its
daily updated, single offering of one dish plus drink pairing
of the day.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 5, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 325 65 00, www.hatgroup.ru/fiddlers-
green/. Open 14:00 until last guest. €€. PAE
I BELIEVE BAR
No fancy cocktails or tech-house parties, just a laidback
bar with 10 types of draft beer, 50 sorts of bottled beer
and two TV screens showing sports. During the day it’s
quite a pleasant neighborhood café to have lunch and in
the evenings you can kick back and relax with a couple of
pints of beer and some simple fare like fish and chips, sau-
sages, steaks, ribs and other such pub grub.QC-2, Zver-
inskaya ul. 2/5, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 83 55.
Open 13:00 - 24:00, St, Sun 14:00 until the last guest.
€€. PASW
COCKTAIL BARS
ORTHODOX
This bar is unlike anywhere you’ve been before. A “back
to the roots” philosophy means that the cocktail menu is
inspired by ingredients of olden days in Russia. Mix that
together with some of the finest names of Russia’s cultural
heritage and you’ve got yourself some truly unique and
surprising cocktails. Choose between some truly amazing
cocktails with ingredients like polugar (bread wine), pickle
juice, pine cone jam,  buckwheat and sea buck-thorn. If
cocktails are not your thing the bar offers more than 25
types of Russian distillates and 8 types of vodkas.QE-3, Ul.
Rubinshteina 2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 928 02
21, www.orthodox.bar. Open 18:00 - 02:00. €. PAS
June - July 2018 35
 Nightlife
POLTORY KOMNATY
However many friends you roll up to Poltory Komnaty bar
with, you can expect one more in the form of the barman.
Enthusiastic to shake up a cocktail selected specially for you
from their vast expertise, the staff will save you the trouble
of deliberating over long cocktail menus. All the drinks here
are presented beautifully, the typically elegant cocktails are
served on a mini wooden board decorated with a sort of
mini tapas of anything from chocolate or berries to cured
meat to accompany a red wine, and the home made limon-
cello is definitely also worth a try.QE-2, Ul. Mayakovskogo
34, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 921 941 82 07. Open
18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. €. PA
QUINTA
Probably the most hidden of St. Petersburg’s hidden bars,
Quinta doesn’t even tell guests the exact address until about
two hours before their reservation. Quinta comes from the
Portuguese word “quinta”, which is a wine-growing estate
near the Douro River – home of the famed port wine. That’s
why this fortified wine is the star of the show here. There are
about 50 sorts on offer, along with some jerez, madera and
a few signature cocktails. The cocktails contain no syrup,
juices or even ice, so be prepared for strong tastes. In order
to book your spot at this bar, flick them a message on Face-
book to let them know your preferred time of arrival and
the number of guests.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo, MPl. Voss-
taniya, www.facebook.com/quintaporto. Open 19:00 -
04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. N
36 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
TSVETOCHKI
A café-bar in the true sense of the word. Guests are seated
around a handful of small wooden tables alternatively
drinking pots of tea or complicated cocktails and the mu-
sic is a mash of country, jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Décor
is minimal brick walls and the odd splash of colour with
the trendy good-looking staff an added bonus. Tsvetochki
attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start the night
in a laidback fashion so leave your bling at home.QE-3, Ul.
Rubinshteina 36, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07
54. Open 15:00 - 05:00. PA
NIGHT CLUBS
LOMONOSOV BAR
A place for party-harders, at this lively club you can
smoke hookahs, sing karaoke and dance on the bartops
– although be warned, Bar Lomonosov is also known for
its nearly-naked dancers. If that’s your thing, however,
you’re golden. The bar has two dancefloors, so there’s
plenty of space to throw shapes.QD-3, Ul. Lomono-
sova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 934 90 90, www.
lomonosovbar.ru. Open 22:00 - 07:00. €€. PAEW
MISHKA
Unobtrusively set behind a pink door, Mishka is a dreamy,
quirky little bar, full of sparkles, neon lights and flamingo
pink. It’s popular, with good reason! The White Russian
here is one of the best in the city, and the DJs play ab-
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
solutely cracking tunes. It’s busiest on weekend nights
from midnight onwards.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky
40, MNevksky pr., tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.
facebook.com/bar.mishka. Open 18:00 until last
guest. €€. P A E W
MOSAIQUE
Located in the city’s central nightlife area, Mosaique is more
than just your average techno club. Its dystopian architec-
ture spreading over two levels, monumental avant-garde
light installations and cutting edge line-ups create a unique
atmosphere, making Mosaique a very special place to visit.
The club is sought after by many electronic music connois-
seurs attracting open-minded audiences from St. Peters-
burg and beyond.QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 921 939 63 94. Fri, Sat 23:00 - 08:00. PAS
STACKENSCHNEIDER
This legendary nightclub is located in the very center of
St. Petersburg, promotes various underground electronic
music and hosts weekend parties with emerging Rus-
sian and foreign independent music talent. The club was
named after Andrey Stackenschneider, a Russian architect
who lived and worked in St. Petersburg in the 19th cen-
tury. Whether for dancing at sunrise on a crowded roof
terrace in summer or for a real rave experience on the
inside dance floor full of club goers, you will remember
Stackenschneider as one of the best places to visit, dance
and have fun while you are in town.QD-2, Konyushen-
naya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 931 208 41 95, www.
stackenschneider.ru. Fri, Sat 24:00 - 10:00. PA
TANZPLOSHCHADKA
Deep in the alleyways of Konyushennaya Square is Tanz-
ploschadka (Dance Square), a new nightlife venue from
the owners of legendary bar Mishka. Apart from the spa-
cious hall with high ceilings that is divided into a restau-
rant area and the dance floor, the venue has a separate
outdoor courtyard with funky lamps, a bar and a basket-
ball hoop for al fresco drinking and partying. Antique fur-
niture guarantees a certain coziness and the abundance of
plants creates a very relaxing atmosphere, which is quite
unusual for a party venue. The food menu is grill-orien-
tated and the bar concept revolves around cocktails with
fresh-squeezed juices. The kitchen closes at 11pm and
that’s when the city’s best DJ’s take to the decks and the
party begins.QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2a, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 931 961 37 66, www.tancplo.com. Fri, Sat
20:00 - 06:00. PA
VNVNC
VNVNC is probably one of the more unusual clubbing des-
tinations in the Northern Capital. Like most other nightlife
heavyweights, VNVNC is also located on Konyushennaya
Square but what sets it apart from this techno mecca is
the absolute absence of techno. The music that you’ll hear
here will be almost exclusively hip-hop and house.QD-2,
Konyushennaya pl. 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 981 845
07 14. Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PN
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Nightlife
RYUMOCHNYE
“Ryumka” in Russian
means a special glass
used for drinking alco-
hol (mostly vodka). So a
traditional Russian “Ryu-
mochnaya” is a stand-up,
spit-and-sawdust kind of
a place where working
men wash down cheap
vodka with salty snacks.
But they’re not all necessarily seedy. There are quite a
few that are atmospheric and help you get immersed
in Russian culture.
MAYAK
QE-2, Ul. Mayakovskogo 20, MMayakovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 273 40 94. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €.
NA POSOSHOK
QD-1, Kronverksky pr. 53, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 232 80 90, demyanova-ukha.com. Open 10:00 -
23:00. €.
RYUMOCHNAYA NA VOSSTANIYA 14
QE-3, Ul. Vosstaniya 14, MPl. Vosstaniya. Open
12:00 - 23:00. €.
ZINGER
Zinger Records – is an electronic music recordings label,
mainly focused on techno music production. The label is
based in St. Petersburg, Russia, a city known for its under-
ground vibes. Being a part of one of the biggest club families
in Russia, Zinger Records supports perspective artists of the
industry, promoting their music on a broader level and giving
them an opportunity to develop in both fields: music produc-
tion and DJ shows execution. And what better way to do this
than by having your very own club to showcase all this talent?
The venue, by the way, is extremely Instagrammable!QD-2,
Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 915 56 97,
www.zingerclub.ru/en. Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. P
EROTIC CLUB
ZAVIST. CHAIN OF NIGHTCLUBS FOR MEN
If you’re having a long day and want to escape your rou-
tine, let someone else dance your worries away. In Zavist
clubs (translated from Russian as Envy), that someone
else will be one of St. Petersburg’s sexiest and most sen-
sual ladies, who will take you away to a world of cham-
pagne and pleasure and ignite your senses. The bar and
non-stop striptease show is on seven days a week. All the
clubs of the chain have central location, heightened se-
curity and no hidden costs. Liteiny pr. 57, Vladimirsky pr.
8, Italyanskaya ul. 5, Nab. Kan. Griboedova 17, Sadovaya
ul. 11. QD-3, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 29, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 701 03 88, www.zavistbar.com. Open
20:00 until the last guest. PAW
June - July 2018 37
 The Essentials
Bank Bridge
St. Petersburg’s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of
the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe’s
greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet
times. They did however add a few hundred apartment
monstrosities outside of town. The city has an enormous
amount of individual tourist attractions which remain en-
chantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.
THE ESSENTIALS
ALEKSANDER NEVSKY MONASTERY
Founded by Peter the Great in 1710, this orthodox mon-
astery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St.
Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery,
where you can visit the graves of Russia’s greatest com-
posers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky,
Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in
the monastery’s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as
you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance).QF-
3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo,
tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily
06:00 - 20:00. The monastery admission free. The cem-
eteries 400Rbl.
CHURCH OF THE SAVIOUR ON THE SPILT BLOOD
This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion
domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre
of St. Petersburg, but it’s one of the city’s most beautiful
and memorable landmarks. It got its name because it was
built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in
1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church’ because the interior
is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall featur-
ing a particular Biblical theme.QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboe-
dova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.
cathedral.ru. Open 10:30 - 22:30, closed Wed. Admis-
sion 50 - 250Rbl.
38 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
FABERGÉ MUSEUM
One of the world’s finest col-
lections is on display in the
magnificently restored Shu-
valov Palace, just a couple of
minutes’ walk from Nevsky
Prospekt. Pride of place
goes, naturally, to nine Eas-
ter Eggs crafted for the last
two Russian tsars, but the
collection includes over 4,000 other items of all shapes,
sizes and materials, some created by Fabergé’s contem-
poraries who, while they may have lacked his flair for PR,
were certainly masters in their own right. Notwithstand-
ing the intrinsic and financial value of some of the pieces,
they are not hidden away behind velvet ropes, in fact you
can get right up to the display cases, and we suspect that
the cleaners spend most evenings wiping nose-prints off
the glass. The entrance fee includes an excursion, indeed
if you visit during the day you will have to join a tour, but
don’t be put off if you are an independent sort: the tales
to be told by the guides are informative and entertaining,
and truly bring the exhibits to life.QE-3, Nab. reky Fon-
tanky 21, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 333 26 55, www.
fabergemuseum.ru. Open 10:00 – 20:45, excursions
10:00 - 18:00 (the last tour starts at 17:00). Closed Fri.
Admission 450Rbl, excursion 600Rbl.
HERMITAGE
The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can’t say
that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the
world, but it’s certainly not number two”. With over
three million works of art and treasures housed in five
connected buildings along the Neva, the museum can’t
fail to impress. Give yourself plenty of time and try to go
on a weekday to avoid the crowds. Four hours is prob-
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
ably an absolute minimum of time to spend there if you
want to see the main state rooms and some of the most
popular artworks. The museum’s art collection covers
all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the
renaissance shouldn’t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos,
Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The
Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master
is another must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great
impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse,
Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where
there is also a very large selection of Oriental and Mid-
dle Eastern art. The ground floor houses the museum’s
treasures of ancient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as
well as antiquities from the near and central east.There
is also a number of cafes and shops on the ground
floor just to the right of the main staircase after the
entrance to the museum. QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34
(entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org.
Open 10:30 - 18:00, Wed and Fri 10:30 - 21:00. Clo-
sed Mon. Admission 700Rbl. Free entrance 1st Thu of
the month. You can buy tickets to the Main Museum
Complex and its branches at the ticket offices inside
the museum, via special terminals at the entrance to
the Great Courtyard and online (the visitors with e-
-tickets and gift cards can use the separate entrance
to the Main Museum Complex through Shuvalovsky
Proezd). Excursion bureau (+7) 812 710 96 88.
KAZAN CATHEDRAL
This cathedral, which was
modelled on St. Peter’s in
Rome, is one of the city’s most
majestic. It was built from 1801
to 1811 to house the miracle-
working Icon Our Lady of Ka-
zan. The dome is 80-metres
high and the colonnade fac-
ing Nevsky has 96 columns.
Be warned, it’s a quiet place and they don’t like you to talk a
lot in here, it’s place of prayer and contemplation.QD-3, Ka-
zanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.
kazansky-spb.ru. Open 07:00 - 20:00. Daily Services 07:00,
10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.
KUNSTKAMERA
St. Petersburg’s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunst-
kamera (which translates as “art house”) was founded by
Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the
Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has
anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cul-
tures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix
of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collect-
ed on their worldly travels. Peter’s Anatomical Collection,
with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars, still
draws crowds.QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmi-
ralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.
ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the
month. Admission 100 - 300Rbl.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
The Essentials
CITY SIGHTSEEING
ST.PETERSBURG
Bright red double-decker tour buses are prowling St.
Petersburg’s streets, giving visitors a great view of the
city centre. The Hop On-Hop Off tour offers excursions
around town in twelve languages, and you can buy a a
2-day ticket and jump on and off the buses as often as
you like. The tour includes the “greatest hits” of St. Pe-
tersburg’s unique and unforgettable city centre, with
its distinctive architecture, intriguing museums and
exciting cultural life. Buses usually run at 20-minute
intervals, depending on the traffic situation. Check the
route on page 64-65.QBuses leave from Isaakievska-
ya pl., city-sightseeing.ru/led. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
PETER AND PAUL FORTRESS
Dress appropriately and head on over to Hare’s island–the
small piece of land situated at the mouth of the Neva and
the heart of St. Petersburg, on which rests the foundation
and first building of the city: Peter and Paul’s Fortress. Of-
ficially labelled as a “Museum of the History of the City”, the
island in fact hosts a multitude of various buildings, muse-
ums, and exhibitions both permanent and private which
are not always connected to the specific history of the
fortress itself. The fortress, and all that lie within the walls
and on the island is unique and central to the identity of St.
Petersburg, and can justly be called a point of intellectual
and active recreation.QD-2, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The island territory
is open 06:00 - 22:00. The fortress open 09:30 - 20:00. All-
inclusive ticket 600Rbl, valid for two days.
ST. ISAAC’S CATHEDRAL
The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings.
Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between
1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the
Great, who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is
a clear day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the
panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort.QD-3, Isaaki-
evskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32,
www.cathedral.ru. Cathedral open 10:30 - 22:30. Colon-
nade open 10:30 - 04:30. Closed Wed. Admission in the
daytime (10:30 - 18:00): Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl, Colon-
nade 150Rbl. All-in ticket 400Rbl. Admission in the eve-
ning time (18:00 - 22:30): Cathedral 400Rbl, Colonnade
300Rbl. Collonade in the night time (22:30 - 04:30) 400Rbl.
June - July 2018 39
 Russian
Hermitage
Museum
KUZMA PETROV-VODKIN
Kuzma Petrov-Vodkin was born in Khvalynsk (Saratov Re-
gion) into the family of a local shoemaker. His first expo-
sure to art was in his early childhood, when he took some
lessons from a couple of icon painters and a signmaker.
After secondary school, however, he wanted to join a rail-
road college, abandoning the artist life.
Through his jobs and with his mother’s help, he was able
to get an invitation to study at St. Petersburg’s Stiglitz
Academy from 1895 to 1897. He later moved to Moscow
and then Munich, graduating in 1904. He also studied in
private academies in Paris (1905-1908), including in the
studio of F. Colarossi. During these years the artist also
traveled to Italy, Greece, France and North Africa, and
came under the influence of various modern (French sym-
bolism) and traditional (paintings of Ancient Rus’ and early
Italian Renaissance) styles. From 1910 until 1915 Petrov-
Vodkin taught at the E. N. Zvantsevoy art school in St. Pe-
tersburg, and then at the State Free Studios (1918-1921)
and the All-Russian Academy of Arts (1918-1933).
Already at the beginning of his artistic career, Petrov-
Vodkin’s art showed symbolic influences (“Elegy”, 1906;
“The Shore”, 1908; “The Dream”, 1910). “The Bathing of
the Red Horse” (1912) marked a new stage in his work
- his attempt to synthesize Eastern and Western paint-
ing traditions. It was then that he developed the concept
of three colors, because of which he used only the blue,
yellow and red colors in his works. This concept was
actively applied to his works dedicated to motherhood
(“Mother”, 1915, “Mother of God of Tenderness Towards
Evil Hearts”, 1914-1915, “Petrograd Madonna”, 1918).
In the 1910’s, Petrov-Vodkin developed a certain artistic-
theoretic system where the main role is played by the prin-
ciple of the “spherical perspective” which gives the paint-
ings a feel of “the earth as a planet” (“Midday. Summer”,
1917; “The Portrait of Anna Akhmatova”, 1922 and others).
Having sincerely embraced the Bolshevik Revolution, the
artist created epically idealized images of the Civil War (“Af-
ter the Battle”, 1923; “The Death of a Commissar”, 1928). At
the turn of the 1920’s and 1930’s, Petrov-Vodkin had to put
his art on pause due to illness. He used this time to try his
hand at literature. That is when he wrote his autobiographi-
cal pieces “Khlynovsk” (1930) and “Euclidean Space” (1933).
40 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
The State Russian Museum is the world’s largest museum of
the Russian art and a unique complex in the historic center
of St. Petersburg. A dazzling journey from thirteenth cen-
tury icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian
Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces.
MIKHAILOVSKY PALACE
The Mikhailovsky Palace is the traditional epicentre of the
Russian Museum, built in 1825 for Grand Duke Mikhail
Pavlovich. The palace’s permanent exhibits form the ma-
jor constituent of the Russian Museum’s collection, with
works spanning from folk art of the 12th century to avant-
gardist movements of the early 20th century. The Benois
Wing of the palace, which was constructed between 1914-
1919, is the home of the museum’s more modern works,
permanently exhibiting paintings of the late 19th cen-
tury - late 20th and the beginning of 21th century.QD-2,
Inzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42
48, www.rusmuseum.ru.
MARBLE PALACE
The Marble Palace has long been a centre for cultural ex-
ploits in St. Petersburg. It was built in 1785 by Antonio
Rinaldi for Ekaterina II’s favorite Graph G.Orlov. During the
late 19th century, under the ownership of Grand Duke Kon-
stantin Konstantinovich the palace became a hub of cultural
activity, hosting public readings as well as musical and the-
atrical performances. Today, the Marble Palace effectively
operates as the Russian Museum’s modern art department.
QD-2, Millionnaya ul. 5/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595
42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru.
MIKHAILOVSKY CASTLE
The history of the Mikhailovsky Castle goes back to 1797
when construction of an imperial residence in the historic
center of St. Petersburg began. For two centuries, as the build-
ing accommodated military and academic institutions (and,
later, different Soviet institutions), the layout of the ensemble
was changed multiple times, with structures rebuilt and in-
teriors redesigned.QE-2, Sadovaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 570 51 12, www.rusmuseum.ru.
STROGANOV PALACE
The Stroganov family of were one point one of the most
influential families of Petersburg, residing in their beautiful
home, located on the intersection between Nevsky Prospect
and the Moika. The palace, was constructed in the mid-18th
century by court architect Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli. For
the past ten years, the palace has served the purpose of ex-
hibiting the Mineral Study, heavily restored since the fall of the
Soviet Union.QD-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Thu 13:00
- 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-450Rbl. Price
for all-in ticket for visiting the Mikhailovsky Palace,
Marble Palace, Stroganov Palace, Mikhailovsky
Castle within 3 days 400 - 850Rbl.
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
CHURCHES
SAMPSONIEVSKY CATHEDRAL
QE-1, Bol. Sampsonievsky pr. 41, MVyborgskaya, tel.
(+7) 931 223 80 83, www.sampsony.ru. Open 10:30 -
18:00. Admission free.
SMOLNY CATHEDRAL
QF-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 900 70 15, www.smolnyspb.ru. Open 07:00 -
20:00. Bell-tower 11:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Bell-
tower 200Rbl.
ST. NICHOLAS CATHEDRAL
QC-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Open 06:30 - 19:30.
Admission free.
TROITSKY CATHEDRAL
QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Insti-
tut, tel. (+7) 812 246 07 15, www.izmsobor.ru. Open
09:00 - 19:00, Sun 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
VLADIMIRSKY CATHEDRAL
QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812
312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor.spb.ru. Open 08:00 - 19:30.
Admission free.
ART MUSEUMS
MUSEUM OF THE ST. PETERSBURG
AVANT-GARDE
Avant-garde is a bit of an umbrella term for a host of vari-
ous artistic movements active in the early twentieth cen-
tury. This museum is primarily dedicated to the activities
and impact of two protagonists, husband and wife, Mikhail
Matyushin and Elena Guro. Located in Matyushin’s home, a
beautifully restored timber 19th century house for which
its worth making the trip to see, there is a really wonderful
non-stiflling atmosphere here.QD-1, Ul. Professora Popo-
va 10, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.
spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Wed. Admission 100 - 150Rbl. Free entrance Fri.
Audioguide 100Rbl. Excursion 300Rbl.
THE RUSSIAN ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS
MUSEUM
This museum is a unique art collection not only in Rus-
sia, but throughout the world. On the first floor there are
sculptures — about 600 monuments from the 3rd millen-
nium BC until the second half of the XVIII century. The sec-
ond floor holds the paintings of European schools’ artists
of the XV-XIX centuries and paintings of famous Russian
artists: Kramskoy, Chistyakov, Repin, Kiprensky, Kustodiev,
Roerich, Myasoedov, Ryabushkin and others. On the third
floor of the Academy there is a real St. Petersburg in min-
iature, a unique collection of architectural models of St.
Isaac’s Cathedral, Smolny Monastery, Mikhailovsky Castle
and other famous buildings.QC-3, Universitetskaya nab.
17, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 64 96, www.
eng.nimrah.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Thu, Sun 11:00 -
19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission
500Rbl. Excursion 3,000Rbl.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Sightseeing
VIEWING POINTS
Russia’s Northern Capital harbors grandiose, neoclassi-
cal architecture that resembles European standards and
interweaves with modern buildings of elegant Russian
charm. It also has a grandeur that not many other cities
can boast and this is exactly why some of the best views
of St. Petersburg are from up high. A bird’s eye view of
the city helps you grasp just how vast and mighty it is.
Luckily, there are many observation decks and viewing
points (both free and chargeable) located in and around
the center where you can marvel at St. Petersburg’s mag-
netic beauty. And the best thing is that many of them are
located in or near the landmarks that are for sure on eve-
ry first-time visitor’s “must see” list. Get a good glimpse
of St. Petersburg from above when visiting such iconic
places as St. Isaac’s Cathedral, Smolny Cathedral or the
Peter and Paul Fortress. There are also some less conven-
tional vantage points from a helium-tethered balloon or
the rooftop of a super trendy loft project.
KARL BULLA MUSEUM BALCONY VIEW
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 54, MGostiny dvor, tel. (+7) 812
314 33 01, www.bullafond.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
Admission 50Rbl.
LOFT PROJECT ETAGI ROOF
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
458 50 05, www.vk.com/roofwithview. Open 09:00
- 23:00. Admission 100Rbl.
NEVSKAYA PANORAMA
QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru.
Open 10:00 - 21:00. Admission 300Rbl.
PETER AND PAUL CATHEDRAL BELL-TOWER
QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru.
Open 11:30, 13:00, 14:30 and 16:00 (May - Septem-
ber). Closed Wed. Admission 90 - 150Rbl.
SMOLNY CATHEDRAL BELL-TOWER
QF-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
911 233 89 57, www.smolnyspb.ru. Open 11:00 -
20:00. Admission 50 - 200Rbl.
ST ISAAC’S CATHEDRAL COLONNADE
QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 10:30 -
22:30. June 1 - August 20 10:30 - 04:30. Closed Wed.
Admission 150 - 400Rbl.
June - July 2018 41
 Sightseeing
RUSSIAN VODKA MUSEUM
This small museum pres-
ents the long history of
Russia’s national drink,
from 12th Century peas-
ants through to 20th Cen-
tury presidents. Display
cases full of vodka bottles
in unusual shapes, old
advertising campaigns
and some funny dioramas
explain the evolution of the Russian firewater. An official
excursion is recommended as the exhibits are in Russian
only. In the tasting room, there’s also a chance to try out
three different vodkas and traditional Russian snacks.
QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 943 14 31, www.vodkamuseum.su. Open
12:00 - 19:00. Admission 200Rbl. Excursion 450Rbl. De-
gustation 450Rbl. Excursion with degustation 600Rbl.
HISTORY MUSEUMS
MUSEUM OF POLITICAL HISTORY OF RUSSIA
The State Museum of the Political History is housed in two
historic buildings of the modern era: the mansions of the bal-
lerina Matilda Kshesinskaya, and baron Brandt. The exposition
‘Man and Power in Russia in the XIX-XXI Centuries’ is devoted
to the relationship between man and the state at the crucial
moments in the history of the country. The period of the revo-
lution is presented in the exposition ‘The Revolution in Russia.
1917-1922’. The exposition ‘The Soviet Epoch: Between Utopia
and Reality’ reveals images of that time – Stalin, Khrushchev
and Brezhnev – presented in documents, things, and re-
constructed interiors.The exposition ‘Matilda Kshesinskaya:
Fouettes of Fate’ tells the story of the mistress of the mansion.
QD-2, Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky pr.),
MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory.
ru/en. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Fri 10:00 - 20:00. Closed
Thu and last Mon of the month. Admission 250Rbl. Au-
dioguide 200Rbl.
STATE MEMORIAL MUSEUM OF LENINGRAD
DEFENSE AND SIEGE
One of the darkest periods in Russian history was undoubt-
edly the siege of Leningrad (September 8, 1941 - January
18, 1944). A trip to the State Memorial Museum of Len-
ingrad Defense and Siege allows you to take a peek into
history, and to gain a better understanding of just how
desperate the situation was in these 900 dark days. The
displayed food rations, munitions and propaganda posters
may seem a bit morbid to those not interested in war his-
tory, but they are all of significant historical value. QE-2,
Solyanoy per. 9, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275
75 47, www.blokadamus.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed
12:30 - 20:30. Closed Tue and last Thu of the month. Ad-
mission 60 - 250Rbl. Audio-guide 300Rbl. Excursion for
group up to 25 people 600Rbl.
42 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
SCIENCE MUSEUMS
ARCTIC AND ANTARCTIC MUSEUM
The museum was founded in 1930 as part of the Soviet
Arctic and Antarctica Institute. The first floor will guide you
through various exhibitions related to the icy landscapes
of Antarctica. Various scale models of famous Russian
atomic ice breakers decorate the rooms, accompanied by
official documents, pieces of machinery and emblems.
Full-sized replicas of Russian tents, hovels and equipment
show how it is possible for researchers to survive under
such harsh conditions. The museum also showcases some
of the most impressive mounted animals you will ever see,
giving you the opportunity to stare a polar bear straight in
the eye with impunity. The second floor itself is dedicated
to the history and present state of Inuit culture. QE-3, Ul.
Marata 24A, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 25 49,
www.polarmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon and last Fri of the month. Admission 150 - 300Rbl.
RUSSIAN ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
Wanting to get deeper in touch with the lifestyle of Russia’s
various native ethnic minorities? The Russian Ethnograph-
ic Museum is the place to be. Situated right next to the
Russian Museum, the large collection contains thousands
of different traditional handcrafted items such as jewellery,
clothes, weapons and tools used by different native cul-
tures across Russia and Central Asia. Russian Ethnographic
Museum is one of the biggest in the world, and it is often
called “Ethnographic Hermitage”.QE-3, Inzhenernaya ul.
4/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 54 21, www.eng.
ethnomuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue
10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Fri
of the month. Admission 300Rbl. Excursion in English
1,000Rbl.
ST. PETERSBURG
IN MINIATURE
GRANDMAKET RUSSIA
Trying to fit the Russian Federation into one room is mad-
ness, surely? The creators of Grand Maket Russia thought
so too, so they used two rooms instead. Covering 800-odd
square metres, this grand layout of Russia is the second
largest of its kind in the world. Over four hundred artists,
modellers and computer scientists helped create this all-
encompassing, yet surprisingly detailed representation
of Russia. To take in all that the museum has to offer will
probably take until nightfall, no matter what time of the
day you visit. This is because of a nifty day and night sys-
tem integrated into the exhibit: when the sun sets in the
west, the eastern part of Russia will gradually be bathed
in the red light of the morning sun. During the night se-
quences the entire atmosphere of the rooms change:
cars and trains turn on their headlights, houses become
illuminated and the snowy regions of Russia seem to
become even more magical than before. An informative
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
Sightseeing
and most of all fun experience for young and old alike.
And don’t forget to try some of the Russian cuisine in the
restaurant downstairs afterwards.QTsvetochnaya ul. 16,
MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 495 54 65, www.
grandmaket.ru/en. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 280
- 480Rbl. Audioguide 250Rbl + 500Rbl deposit. PT
AULKW
PETROVSKAYA AKVATORIA Теперь и в России!
For the first time, the main sights of St. Petersburg and its Городские экскурсии
suburbs are collected in one place, where they may be ad- на двухэтажных автобусах
mired in any weather and the fountains are operational in
all seasons. Welcome to the Petrovskaya Akvatoria, the first
large historical scale model in Russia (scale of 1 to 87,500
square meters). The permanent exhibition represents the
reconstruction of the most significant sights of St. Peters-
burg and its suburbs, related to the city and the origin of the
Russian fleet, from Peter the Great’s till Catherine the Great’s
era, recreated according to engravings and archive sources.
It is the only place where you can see what St. Petersburg
and the main imperial residences looked like three centuries
ago and what was located in the place of today’s famous
buildings and architectural complexes.QD-3, Mal. Mor-
skaya ul. 4/1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 933 41 52,
www.peteraqua.ru/en. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission
250 - 450Rbl.
RUSSIAN WRITERS
ANNA AKHMATOVA MUSEUM
It’s easy to miss the Anna Akhmatova Museum, which is
tucked away in the sun-lit, green courtyard of Sheremetev
Palace. Here you can wander through the rooms where
Akhmatova lived, loved, lost and continued to write for
nearly 30 years. Akhmatova’s life is well-chronicled in the
curatorial notes for the apartment, and the ‘White Hall’, an
interactive room with sounds, manuscripts and electronic
screens creates a dynamic stage for the words of the Silver
Age muse. But if you do not understand Russian, going
through this room might be quite difficult. Akhmatova’s
poetry and personal biography are presented here in a
way that creates a context for understanding and react-
ing to the terrifying years of Stalin’s reign. Don’t forget to
check out the museum’s website and brochures for their
ongoing readings, concerts and new exhibitions. Audio-
guides in English, German, French, Italian and Finnish.
Being extremely detailed and useful, they worth your at-
tention and can turn your tour into a quest. QE-3, Liteiny
pr. 53, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 72 39, www.
akhmatova.spb.ru. Open 10:30 - 18:30, Wed 12:00 -
20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 120Rbl.
Take note that most museum ticket offices close
one hour before the official closing time.
Also remember most museums ask you to buy an
extra photography ticket if you would like to take
photos or videos
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket June - July 2018 43
 Sightseeing
CITY CARD
Get the most out of
your trip to St. Pe-
tersburg with the St.
Petersburg City Card. It gives you discounts to many
things this city has to offer, including museums, restau-
rants, hotels, and shops - the full list can be found on
the website and in the guidebook which comes with
the card. Whether you are a visitor to the city with only
a couple of days here or an expat wanting to get to
know the ins and outs of this amazing city, the St. Pe-
tersburg Card is a great investment. The card is available
in 2, 3, 5 and 7 day options for your convenience. More
information at www.petersburgcard.com.
GARDENS
BOTANICAL GARDEN
QD-1, Aptekarsky pr.1, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812
372 54 64, www.botsad-spb.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Orangeries closed Mon. Guided tours 11:00 - 16:30. Ad-
mission 100 - 300Rbl.
TAVRICHESKY GARDEN
QF-3, Potyomkinskaya ul. 2, MChernyshevskaya.
Open 07:00 - 23:00. Admission free.
YUSUPOVSKY GARDEN
QD-3, Ul. Sadovaya 54, MSennaya pl. Open 24hrs.
Admission free.
44 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
FYODOR DOSTOEVSKY MUSEUM
The museum dedicated to the author of Notes from the
Underground dips into the basement, then leads you
all the way up. The main attraction here is Dostoevsky’s
apartment, where he lived with his young, dutiful wife
Anya Snitkina and their four children. Luckily for Anglo-
phones, every room is accompanied by a laminated page
explaining the items and function of the space, including
Dostoevsky’s personal study, the family kitchen and Anya’s
office. A side exhibit in a darkened room displays bio-
graphical photos, personal paraphernalia and published
books – there aren’t any notes to be found here, though,
so it’s good to know your Fyodor Fast Facts in advance.
QE-3, Golden Garden Hotel, Vladimirsky pr. 9, MV-
ladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 22 44, www.authorhotel.
ru. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 13:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 250Rbl. Guided
tours should be booked in advance by phone.
NABOKOV MUSEUM
The Nabokov museum is housed in a sumptuous neo-
Renaissance building that the family lived in until the
Revolution in 1917 – take a bit of time to gaze at the rich
woodwork of the interiors. Then go in and see the house
that Vladimir Nabokov describes so lovingly in The Other
Shores and Speak Memory. The rooms have not been re-
stored with furniture, but the exhibits here fill the space
with stories instead. A major highlight is Nabokov’s exten-
sive butterfly collection, which features not only beauti-
ful, colourful specimens but also explanations of their
significance, and instances of specific species mentioned
in his writings. Nabokov was a prolific English author and
translator, and the museum, too, is bilingual-friendly, with
accessible English materials.QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul.
47, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 47 13, www.
nabokov.museums.spbu.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun and Mon. Admission free.
PUSHKIN MUSEUM
In his famous adaptation of Horace’s Ode, Pushkin wrote
that his soul would continue to live past death. Well, in this
museum some other things remain as well: a death mask,
a writing desk, a lock of hair and other personal items
help revive the man who became an eternal influence in
Russian literature. The great author Alexander Pushkin’s
last home is an essential site for anyone exploring the
literary St. Petersburg – after all, Pushkin himself wrote
the founding myth of the city in The Bronze Horseman.
Audio-guides are mandatory and honestly quite helpful.
If you understand some Russian, check out the nearby
exhibition (housed in the same complex) devoted to
Pushkin’s “literary biography”, with relevant pictures, per-
sonalities and documents. Please note: visiting the mu-
seum is only possible as part of the excursion group (less
than 20 people) or with an audio-guide.QD-2, Nab. reky
Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 35 31, www.
museumpushkin.ru. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Tue
and last Fri of the month. Admission 150 - 220Rbl. Au-
dioguide 190Rbl. Free entrance: June 6.
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
Rooftop Tours by www.panoramicroof.ru, photo by Nikolay Bykov
Explore the city on foot, by bike or on boat. The cultural
capital of Russia has a lot to offer for each tourist: a history
lover, thrill seeker and those who just like to wander and
relax.
ROOFTOP TOURS
Seeing the city from above is a must when visiting St. Pe-
tersburg. Since the mid 19th century, local law has limited
building height, with the exception of churches, to that of
the tsar’s Winter Palace (23.5 meters). Today, if you climb
onto the roof of any six-storey building in the center, you’ll
be able to see the glorious skyline and major architectural
gems. But, unfortunately, almost all rooftop tours are ille-
gal and not safe. They are usually conducted by brave and
risk-loving young roofers, who exchange their knowledge
of the city’s roofs for some cash. And the tour can go ei-
ther way: you may encounter angry residents or homeless
people living in the garret or you may have a lot of fun - it’s
hard to predict! So we recommend you sign up for the legal
roof tour, tried and tested by members of the St. Petersburg
government.
It is located just 5 minutes walk from Moskovsky railway
station. The building height is about 25 meters, which is
equivalent to the 9th floor of a modern house. After sign-
ing a document with safety rules, tourists arrive at the
MPVO tower (air-raid protection post), which was built
during the Second World War. The guide will tell you
about the major city sights, the history of the Siege of
Leningrad and the importance of MPVO towers. With the
help of a spyglass, small details become visible and one
can even see residential areas near the newly constructed
Zenit Arena stadium, which is about 10 kilometers away.
This excursion may not be the most extreme one you’ll
ever have, but still interesting and reasonably cheap – just
600Rbl. Find out more information about it here: www.
panoramicroof.ru/en. Another roof with amazing views
is located at the Loft Project Etagi complex (Ligovsky Pros-
pekt 74), but no tour is offered there.
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Tours in St. Petersburg
PETERSBURG FREE TOUR
Petersburg Free Tour gives you basic information about
the city’s major sights and Russian history. The tour it-
self doesn’t require a lot of walking, but you will see the
Hermitage, the Peter and Paul Fortress and Nevsky Pros-
pekt. The guides use loudspeakers, so you won’t miss
anything important. The walk starts daily at 10:45 near
the Alexander Column in the center of Palace Square -
even in winter time! Booking is recommended, but not
required; you can simply show up and look for a guide
with the sign.
Be ready to hear information about buildings, monu-
ments and churches you’ll see around you, but also
about serfdom, Russian theater, nesting dolls, revolu-
tions, the Siege of Leningrad, Joseph Stalin, Russian
salad and Beef-stroganoff. Russians take their country
very seriously and can talk about its history for ages. At
the end of the tour you’ll be able to answer questions
like: “Who was the first prisoner of the Peter and Paul
Fortress? What is the connection between Peter I and
Catherine II?” and so on. So choose Petersburg Free Tour
if you skipped all preparations for your Russia trip and
would like to get up to speed with everything in just
3 hours!
The guide will provide you with encyclopedic infor-
mation on “what to see”, give you information about
the museums’ working days, opening hours and even
ticket prices. Some things will be repeated twice for
you to remember. Though the tour presents a limited
opportunity to talk to the guide (there are usually
about 20-40 people in the group), all questions will
be answered and advice about the city will be given.
Although the tour is called “free”, it is based on tips
and the amount is connected to the level of your sat-
isfaction.
Check out www.petersburgfreetour.com for addi-
tional information and other tours on offer (prices range
from 1,199 to 2,300Rbl).
June - July 2018 45
 Tours in St. Petersburg
THE ORIGINAL WALK
The Original Walk is one
of the oldest city tours
for budget-conscious
English-speaking travel-
ers. Established in 1996 by
Peter Kozyrev (Peterswalk
company founder) this tour
runs daily from Easter till the
middle of October, except
May 27. The main idea be-
hind it is that St. Petersburg is much more than a collection
of gilded palaces and cathedrals, but a huge metropolis liv-
ing its own unique life. Tourists can feel like locals – visit food
markets, Russian Orthodox churches, New Holland park and
walk through the city’s famous backstreets and alleyways.
The tour starts near Sennaya Square, described in Dostovevs-
ky’s greatest novel “Crime and Punishment”, and then in-
cludes the world famous Mariinsky Theater. Since nowadays
the walk is given by 7 different guides of the company, every
tour will be distinct, as it depends on the groups’ requests,
the weather and the guide’s personality. You may stay for a
while in the Synagogue, hang out at a roof-top café, discuss
Rasputin’s murder near Yusupovsky Palace or even try tradi-
tional “nastoika” - homemade infusions.
The excursion usually takes 4 hours but there is always a
coffee-break in the middle, so participants are able to re-
lax, chat to each other or have long conversation with their
guide about the mysterious Russian soul. Booking is rec-
ommended on www.peterswalk.com, as there is a maxi-
mum amount of 15 people per tour.
EXCURSIONS BY CITY ACTIVISTS
In 2015, social entrepreneur
Olga Polyakova created a
festival “Open Your Map”.
Her main idea was to make
excursions for locals told
by local guides, so from the
very beginning many tours
were dedicated to social
problems, subcultures and
informal places. Nowadays,
several tours are available in English because Olga’s team is
interested in showing the “alternative side” of St. Petersburg
during the 2018 World Cup. Tourists can meet urban activ-
ists and learn about Russia’s civil society, street art, LGBT-
community, homeless people, political protesters and attend
networking events in bars.
Polyakova herself conducts a tour dedicated to creative
spaces, such as Pushkinskaya 10 - the oldest art-center
where underground artists and musicians squatted in the
early 1990’s; Loft Project Etagi – 10-year old cultural clusters
located in a former bread factory; and several others. She is
not a professional tour-guide, but more an expert on con-
temporary St. Petersburg culture. This and other excursions
can be booked here: https://www.sputnik8.com/en/
st-petersburg. The website unites independent guides
showing “off the beaten track” sights.
46 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
CITY AND MUSEUM QUESTS
If you would like to explore St. Petersburg in an active way,
meet expats, exchange students and locals, check out the
English In Action SPb schedule. They organize online quests
around museums, such as the Hermitage and the Russian Mu-
seum, and walking quests in different city districts. Participants
are not obliged to have a deep knowledge about Russian his-
tory and culture, they just need some sharpness of mind and
a passion for quizzes (but yes, some things can be googled).
Intellectual bar hopping is the easiest way to really immerse
oneself in local nightlife, discover bars on Rubinstein Street,
drink with new friends and learn some history along the way.
All competitions are held in small groups of 4-5 people and the
teams are formed at the beginning of the event.
Project founder Irina Efros is originally from St. Petersburg,
but has also lived in London for a while, where she studied
at the University of Westminster. With a passion for cultural
exchange, she also offers culinary workshops with special
guests from Mexico, Sri Lanka, Finland, Peru, Ethiopia, Iran
and India, which include both cooking and conversation.
Another format is TeaXcursion – a set of short thematic ex-
cursions followed by coffee and tea breaks. One of them is
dedicated to the history of merchants in St. Petersburg and
finishes at the prominent Eliseevsky grocery store, where
participants visit the former owner’s study. All information
about upcoming events and prices can be found at www.
facebook.com/pg/englishinactionspb/.
BOAT TOURS
Enjoying the city from the water is another “must do” thing
in the “Venice of the North”. When Peter the Great founded
the city in the early 18th century, he had been inspired by
Amsterdam. He wanted all citizens to use private boats and
didn’t allow the construction of bridges over the Neva. To-
day, there are several options of exploring St. Petersburg’s
rivers and canals from the 1st of May till the end of Septem-
ber. Because summer here is often unpredictable, all boats
have a covered deck; but we’d still recommend bringing
warm clothes, raincoats or even a little bottle of vodka to
drink secretly if you start to freeze!
Anglotourismo offers day and night cruises, which depart
from 3 different locations. Day tours with English speaking
guides start in May and tourists can hop on and off the boat at
three different stops (the tour’s duration is 1 hour 20 minutes).
Night cruises depart at 21:30 and 0:20 from Fontanka Embank-
ment 27, starting from the 1st of June. No stops are included,
but passengers will be able to see the famous draw bridges
and join the improvized race between dozens of water bikes,
yachts and motor boats. Prices range from 900 to 1,300Rbl,
check out the timetable at www.anglotourismo.com.
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
Another 2-hour hop on/hop off boat tour is presented by
the City Tour company, which also offers trips on double-
decker buses. They have more frequent departures, 4 stops
(Kunstkamera, Bronze Horseman, Lomonosov Bridge and
St. Nicholas Cathedral), an unlimited amount of “hops”
within 24 hours and provide an audio guide in several lan-
guages. There are discounts if you choose a combo ticket.
Find more information at www.city-cruise.ru/en/.
The cheapest and fastest boat tour (just 1 hour and 700Rbl)
departs daily from Admiralteyskaya Embankment 10. Au-
dio Guide in 6 Languages offers the tour along the Neva,
Fontank and Moika rivers in Russian, English, French, Italian,
Spanish and German. It departs daily at 13:30, 15:00, 17:00
and 18:30. Booking is recommended via steptospb@mail.
ru or whatsApp +79213838309. Don’t forget that you are
not obliged to listen to the recording, you can just relax, put
away the headset and enjoy the waves and stunning views.
BIKE TOURS
St. Petersburg is a perfect city for bike rides with its flat ter-
rain, quiet streets and wide embankments, which make up
for the lack of bike paths in the city center. Offered by Pe-
terswalk since 2007, Weekend and White Nights bike tours
are designed for those who would like to see all the major
highlights in just 3.5 hours. All attendants will pass a safety
briefing and be given helmets (upon request). The route
goes through quiet streets, parks and pedestrian zones, so
participants won’t get stuck in traffic jams with cars. The
company uses “Shulz” bikes, a local brand that produces
compact folding city bikes (they are easy to ride even if the
last time you rode a bike was 10 years ago). Bike rental is
included in the price of the tour.
During the excursion you will cycle along different neighbor-
hoods of the city, making stops at the Church on the Spilled
Blood, St. Isaac’s Square and the Peter-and-Paul Fortress, where
the guide will provide you with all the necessary historical in-
formation. Grand panoramic views along the Neva embank-
ments and charming old residential areas are all part of the
program as well. Still, many variations are possible, depending
on your guide: you may wander in the yards of the Petrograd
side or explore hidden corners of Kolomna district. Don’t be
afraid to make some requests and discuss the route in the be-
ginning of the excursion. Participants usually stop for a coffee
or “small beer” break during the tour (Dutch and German tour-
ists are especially fond of this). A night tour is not complete
without watching the giant drawbridges across the Neva open
in the middle of the night. Booking is required, as there is a limit
on the amount of participants (maximum 15 people).
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Tours in St. Petersburg
NEW HOLLAND
Edged by canals and cov-
ering an area of 7.6 hect-
ares,  New  Holland  Island
was created in the time of
Peter the Great as a center
for shipbuilding. Although
the island’s complete
transformation process is
due to finish only in 2025, already in the summer of 2016
it opened its doors to the public, delighting St. Peters-
burgers and visitors alike with a fun-filled program. This
summer is shaping up to be bigger, better and more jam-
packed with activities! QC-3, Nab. Admiralteiskogo
kan. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, www.newhollandsp.com.
MUSIC AND DANCE
On June 12, the Mosaic Music concert series kicks off
with the first headliner, Parisian twin sister duo Ibeyi. The
second headliner is Leon Bridges, a star of the soul music
scene, who will take to the stage on July 8. Other concerts
that will take place include Kito Jempere band together
with the Finnish jazz legend Jimi Tenor. Dozens of Russian
musicians will perform throughout the summer: look out
for Antokha MC (hip-hop), Race to Space (electronica),
Videatape (indie) and others. On Wednesdays you can
pop in to listen to live jazz. Contemporary dance is set to
take place in the form of the Mind and Movement gala
concert, which was created especially for New Holland by
Context: Diana Vishneva and Studio Wayne McGregor.
 
FILM
All summer long you’re invited to watch movies under
the stars. The Beat Film Festival and Center Festival
comprise the special event part of this year’s open-air
film season.
 
SPORT
Diana Vishneva’s dance studio Context Pro will offer
yoga and contemporary dance classes on the lawn,
while Johnny D boxing studio will help you up your
self-defense game. Twice a week the petanque court
will have a qualified instructor and if you want to ex-
ercise your brain, every other Sunday of the month
the Bobby Fisher chess club gets together here. Also,
watch the most important matches of the World Cup
on a big screen here.
THEATER, FESTIVALS AND PARK
A variety of fairs, festivals and celebrations will take
place this summer so check New Holland’s website for
exact dates and events. Treat yourself to NewHolland’s
signature ice cream during your stroll and if you’ve got
young ones with you, let them frolic at the “Fregat”
playground. A big variety of restaurants and cafes will
ensure you’re never hungry or thirsty. 
June - July 2018 47
 Islands
Lazarevsky Bridge
St. Petersburg is brimming with grand galleries, enormous
museums and enough history to overwhelm even the
most intellectually curious amongst us. Trust us, there’s no
shame in taking a little break from the hustle and bustle of
the city center and all its cultural offerings! So if you feel
like escaping the glitz and the glam of Nevsky Prospekt and
co., why not take a trip to one of St. Petersburg’s lush and
spacious islands? Explore Krestovsky, Petrovsky and Yelagin
Islands with us!
KRESTOVSKY
This one is probably the most famous of the three islands
– at least this summer – because it’s home to Krestovsky
Stadium (a.k.a. Zenit Arena), one of the most advanced sta-
dia in the world and one of the main venues for the 2018
FIFA World Cup!
The origin of the name of the Island is still contested to this
day. Many claim the name refers to a lake on the Island,
which appears to be cross-shaped (“krest” mean cross in
Russian). Others, however, suggest that on Swedish maps
the Island is referred to, in Finnish, as “Cross Island”. Whilst
the Russians may contest the name of the Island, one thing
they definitely do not contest is that there is plenty of fun
to be had here! It therefore should come as no surprise that
over the weekend the Petersburgers flock in their masses
to Krestovsky Island, especially on the elusive sunny days.
The simplest way to access the Island is by metro; the sta-
tion, Krestovsky Ostrov, is located on the Purple V5 line in
the north of St. Petersburg. Fortunately the metro only has
one entry and exit point, so there’s no need to think twice
about which way to go. After exiting the metro simply walk
down the steps towards Ryukhina Street, and if in doubt,
follow the crowd. Once you approach the road you will find
yourself with several choices depending on the kind of itin-
erary you’re looking for.
One great option available to you is walking along Yuzh-
naya doroga. Whilst there may not be any specific desti-
nation awaiting you here, this riverside promenade really
captures the essence of Krestovsky Island. Without having
48 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
any end goal in mind, walk at leisure down this street and
you will pass numerous bars, cafes and restaurants. Some
options worth trying are Villa ZimaLeto (www.zl-group.
ru/villa-rest), Royal Beach (www.royalbeach.ru), SunDay
Ginza (www.ginza.ru/spb/restaurant/sunday_ginza) and
Russkaya Rybalka (www.russian-fishing.ru/krestovskiy).
If you’ve got kids with you – or are simply young at heart –
Divo Ostrov is another great option. This funfair ground truly
put Krestovsky Island on the map. Remember that feeling as
a child, walking into a sweet shop? The same kind of nostalgia
awaits you at Divo Island. Entry to the funfair is free and cus-
tomers need only pay per ride, however it is possible to buy a
pass for the day, allowing you to enjoy as many rides as you’d
like at a fraction of the cost. The rides really are very diverse;
there are children’s rides, family rides and extreme rides.
Those who prefer an active lifestyle can bring (or rent) roller
blades or bicycles. As well as being a fun mode of trans-
port it is also a convenient way to get around, and with
so many beautiful features in the park to take in, strap on
your wheels and head in any and every direction! There are
so many little stalls selling snacks, treats and drinks, you’re
guaranteed to come across a bench where you can eventu-
ally sit down and enjoy them along with the view.
Going back to where we started, the football fans amongst
you may relish the opportunity of viewing Krestovsky Sta-
dium. FC Zenit’s new, super-modern stadium was built on
the site of the Kirov Stadium, which, in its day, was one of
the country’s largest stadiums, with a capacity of 110,000.
Divo Island
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The tender to build Krestovsky Stadium was won by the re-
nowned Japanese architect Kisho Kurosawa. The stadium
hosted the Opening Match and Final of the 2017 FIFA Con-
federations Cup and is set to shine again this summer!
Circling the stadium, you’ll notice a pedestrian bridge lead-
ing over the Neva Bay. At the other end of the bridge you’ll
find the Park of the 300th Anniversary of St. Petersburg.
With its quay, fountains, alleys, arbors and playgrounds,
the park creates a great atmosphere for entertainment. You
can enjoy your summer here by biking, rollerblading, skate-
boarding or playing beach volleyball. The central alley leads
to a 22-meter lighthouse and elements which symbolize
the past three centuries of life in the city. The big beach,
near the Gulf of Finland, is a special spot in the park where
you can see a splendid view of St. Petersburg from across
the sea. Piterland, the biggest indoor waterpark in Russia, is
located right next to the park.
PETROVSKY
Petrovsky Island is a unique place that balances the slow
pace of country living and a close proximity to the center.
One of the smaller islands in the Malaya “Little” Neva River,
it is connected by bridges to the neighboring Krestovsky
and Petrogradsky islands. It is the perfect summer escape
for those days when you find yourself craving some peace
and tranquility away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Visit Petrovsky Park and stroll along the paved walkway on
the banks of the River Zhdanovka and take in the magnifi-
cent views. Created on orders of Nicholas I in 1837, it’s a
beautiful landscape park; in the center, you’ll find two large
ponds and natural forests and meadows are alternated
with planted trees and shrubs. For years people have loved
coming to Petrovsky Park, and enjoyed playing, shooting,
boating, and all sorts of attractions.
Petrovsky Stadium
Leading through the middle of the park is Petrovsky Pros-
pekt. At number 13 is “Dom veteranov stseny’’ (House of Vet-
erans of the Scene), founded in 1896 by Russian actress Maria
Gavrilovna Savina and designed by architect M. F. Geysler.
Petrovsky Prospekt turns into Petrovskaya Kosa as you start
approaching the end of the island and that’s where you’ll
find the St. Petersburg River Yacht Club, established back in
1860. It is one of the oldest Yacht clubs in Russia and often
hosts various competitions, festivals and concerts. There are
several cafes and restaurants located in and around the club.
In the summer it is a favorite spot for enjoying a leisurely
lunch/dinner with excellent wine and array of fresh seafood.
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Islands
The more active readers among you will be pleased to know
that here you’ll also find River Wake Club, a water sports
center where you can wakeboard, wakesurf, jet ski or rent a
small sail boat. Overlooking the moored yachts, you would
be forgiven for thinking you are vacationing at sea – and all
without having to leave the city!
YELAGIN
An island which is entirely parkland, Yelagin is the perfect
place for a leafy stroll, echoing the sun drenched Vondelpark
of Amsterdam or the dappled pathways of Paris. The island
lies between the Bolshaya and Srednyaya Nevka; its western
tip offers a viewpoint of the Gulf of Finland and at its eastern
shore a view down the Bolshaya Nevka towards mainland St.
Petersburg. Exiting Krestovsky metro station facing the park
opposite, you should turn right and follow the road to the
bridge to Yelagin Island. Once there, following the winding
pathways between the trees eventually reveals a well-kept
lawn stretching towards the elegant bright white Yelagin Pal-
ace (home of the Museum of 18th-20th Century Crafts and
Design) peeping out from the trees.
A meandering stream of people of all ages can be found
wandering or roller blading along the twisting paths, over
bridges and under the cool shade of the trees. The 237 acres
of gardens have faithfully preserved centuries old trees and
special flora, and because of this some areas are indeed off
limits. There are convenient cafes hiding amongst the trees,
play areas for children and even the chance to take a boat
or pedalo out on the island’s ponds.
To escape from the hubbub of central St. Petersburg and find
the city’s greener side, a visit to Yelagin Island is a must. Though
more lavish grandeur can be found in the Hermitage, the clear
elegance of Yelagin Palace and its effortless harmony with its
green surroundings offers a cultural element to a relaxing day
trip to a charming park. There really is too much to do for us to
list here, so visit the Island’s website to check out the map for
the full range of activities and events on offer: elaginpark.org/en.
Yachtclub at Krestovsky island
June - July 2018 49
 Suburbs and Royal Residences
PUSHKIN/TSARSKOYE SELO
The history of the palace and park ensemble of Tsarskoye
Selo is closely connected with the liberation from Swedish
rule of the old Novgorodian lands on the banks of the River
Neva, the founding of St. Petersburg and its establishment
as the capital of the Russian Empire.
The site that would become Tsarskoye Selo appears on
Swedish 17th century maps as a small estate known as “Sa-
rishoff ” or “Saarismoisio” (translated from the Finnish “the
manor on an elevated spot”), and in Russian as “Sarskaya
Myza”. Immediately after the end of the Neva campaign,
the manor was given to Alexander Menshikov, who was
appointed governor general of the liberated territory. Not
long afterwards, however, Peter the Great transferred it to
his future wife Catherine.
The creation of a royal residence in place of the estate began
in the 1710’s and continued into the 1720’s. Nearby, a village
popped up, as well as a housing area for the court servants.
Soon Sarskaya Myza was renamed Sarskoye Selo (selo means
“village”) and when construction of the palace began, it ac-
quired the elevated title of Tsarskoye Selo – “Tsar’s Village”.
For two centuries Tsarskoye Selo was a grand imperial sum-
mer residence, the construction of which was a matter of
state importance and involved numerous departments of
the government.
After the October Revolution of 1917, the palace and park
ensemble was turned into a museum and the Bolshevik
authorities took over the best buildings in the town as
educational and health establishments for children. As
a consequence, when the town was renamed in 1918, it
became Detskoye Selo – “Children’s Village”. On 9 June that
same year the Catherine Palace was opened to the public
as a museum. In 1937, when the country marked the 100th
anniversary of the tragic death of Alexander Pushkin, the
town where the future poet had received his education
in the Imperial Lyceum was renamed after him. Finally, in
January 1983 the palaces and parks in the town of Pushkin
were given the status of a preserve and in 1990 this be-
came the Tsarskoye Selo State Museum Preserve.
50 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Today, Tsarskoye Selo palace and park ensemble is a
superb monument of world-ranking architecture and
garden-and-park design dating from the 18th to early
20th centuries. A whole constellation of outstanding
architects, sculptors and painters made the ideas of
their crowned clients a reality here (Braunstein, Ras-
trelli, Quarenshi, Monighetti, Rinaldi, Melzer and Me-
nelaws just to name a few). Tsarskoye Selo is a cluster
of very fine examples of Baroque and Classical archi-
tecture and it was also the first place in the Russian
capital where interiors decorated in the Moderne (Art
Nouveau) style appeared.
Apart from permanent exhibitions like the splendid interi-
ors of the Catherine Palace and other themed displays, the
Tsarskoye Selo State Museum organizes various temporary
exhibitions devoted to the history of the Imperial estate
and the Romanov dynasty so make sure to check the web-
site to see what’s on.
CATHERINE’S PALACE
Catherine’s Palace and the surrounding parks were creat-
ed by Empresses Elizabeth and Catherine the Great. The
palace, with its famous Amber Room, is an impressive
post-WWII reconstruction, rebuilt with the help of the
Germans. Once regarded as one of the modern “Won-
der’s of the World”, the newly restored Amber Room
is overwhelmingly opulent and a fitting tribute to the
extravagant empress who originally commissioned it.
The adjoining Cameron Gallery has a magnificent view
of the park and the Agate Room. The parks and gardens
surrounding the palace are dotted with many unusual
buildings, including a Chinese village, an unusual pyra-
mid structure where Catherine buried her favorite pets,
a small Tatar mosque and various little pavilions and
summer cottages. It’s well worth taking a stroll around
the park as well as visiting the palace itself, especially
as you have to pay to enter the park (and after that the
palace) anyway.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Ad-
mission 350 - 1,000Rbl.
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Suburbs and Royal Residences
PUSHKIN LYCEUM
This intern school, closely connected to Catherine’s Palace,
was originally designed as a school for the younger mem-
bers of the imperial family so that, as legend has it, the young
tsarevichs wouldn’t need to climb the stairs to visit the insti-
tution. Nowadays, the Lyceum is most famous as being the
place where Russia’s most beloved poet, Alexander Pushkin
(who the town is now named after), studied together with
other future writers.QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Tue and
last Wed of the month. Admission 50 - 220Rbl.
CATHERINE PARK AND ALEXANDER PARKS
More than a hundred historical monuments are scattered
across the Catherine and Alexander Parks that have a joint
area of 300 hectares: there are grand palaces and intimate
pavilions, bridges and marble monuments, and also exotic
structures imitating Gothic, Turkish and Chinese architec-
ture that invest little corners of the parks with a romantic
atmosphere. The Catherine Park is made up of two parts:
the Regular Park – Old Garden – and the Landscape (Eng-
lish) Park. The Old or Dutch Garden is said to have been
begun by Peter I himself. The Alexander Park, with an area
of around 200 hectares, adjoins the Catherine Palace on
the side of the parade ground. If the weather is good you
can enjoy a gondola or ferry ride around the scenic ponds.
QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Admission 40 - 150Rbl.
WHAT’S ON
The main event that’s got
the whole country talking
is the first proper exhibition
dedicated to the life and
legacy of Tsar Alexander II
in honor of the 200th an-
niversary of his birth. “Tsar-
skoye Selo. On the Eve of
1917” reflects the key his-
torical moments in the life
of the last Russian Tsar and his family at their imperial coun-
tryside residence between February and October, 1917. As
is tradition, the end of June will see a weekend-long cel-
ebration in honor of Pushkin’s “City Day”. Concerts, parades
and all kinds of other festivities light up the entire town and
bring both locals and visitors together.
Fashionistas will flock to Tsarskoye Selo for the 10th time
this year on June 23 for the “Associations” fashion show. The
first fashion show took place in 2009 and since then, St.
Petersburg designers annually launch Haute Couture col-
lections here. The theme of the collection is different every
year but the atmosphere and history of Tsarskoye Selo are
always the main source of inspiration. St. Petersburg Inter-
national Festival “All Together Opera” (July 22) is an annual
city event that has traditionally been the center of great
attention among locals and visitors alike. The festival in-
troduces the audience to the outstanding masterpieces of
foreign and national opera classics in an open-air format.
www.tzar.ru
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PAVLOVSK
Pavlovsk is a town about 30 kilometers south from St. Pe-
tersburg proper and about 4 kilometers southeast from
Pushkin, which developed around the Pavlovsk Palace, a
major residence of the Russian imperial family.
Catherine the Great began to construct a palace at Pavlovsk
for her eldest son, Paul, later the Emperor Paul. She began
building an Imperial residence in Pavlovsk in 1777. She in-
vited the man who was later to become her favorite archi-
tect, Charles Cameron, to come from Scotland to construct
a palace in Pavlovsk. Charles Cameron arrived in Russia in
1779. He was an ardent admirer of the great 16th century
Italian architect Andrea Palladio, whose creations displayed
a whimsical interlacing of modern ideas with the heritage of
Ancient Rome. Cameron began his activities in Russia with
the erection of the Temple of Friendship in Pavlovsk, which
the young heirs to the throne – Paul and his wife Maria Feo-
dorovna - dedicated to Catherine II. His next task was the
construction of the Apollo Colonnade at the entrance to the
park, followed by the Dairy and a number of other buildings.
In 1787 Paul and Maria made the decision to build them-
selves some permanent stone houses. Working on this
commission, Cameron took as a basis one of the Italian pal-
aces depicted in Andrea Palladio’s famous publication “The
Four Books of Architecture”. He designed a similar palace in
Pavlovsk on the top of a hill that descended sharply down
into the spacious valley of the river Slavyanka. The archi-
tect planned a modest palace, a three-storey main building
crowned with a cupola, extremely reminiscent of his earlier
creation, the Temple of Friendship. Adjacent to the central
building were two small semi-circular galleries with in-built
auxiliary wings. These semi-circular galleries formed a wide
parade ground. Their interior decor was intended to com-
ply with modern tastes and fashions.
Paul favored as his residence Gatchina to Pavlovsk, and
therefore, since 1788 the latter was managed by his wife
who had contributed most to its well-being. Maria Feodor-
ovna enjoyed animal husbandry (she used to milk cows
herself ) and thus built a large farm at the edge of the park
and a wooden pavilion for studies. She was also a skilled
artist, a member of Berlin Academy of Arts, and her numer-
ous handicrafts still remain in the palace. A large collection
of books was accumulated in the palace by her efforts. In
1796, the village received a status of a town and renamed
to Pavlovsk.
After the October Revolution of 1917, the Pavlovsk Palace
and Park were nationalized and converted to a public-
access museum. Pavlovsk suffered much from the German
occupation during World War II. Restoration works started
in 1944 and were completed by 1973 and in 1989, it was
included into the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites.
Nowadays about 1.5 million tourists visit Pavlovsk annu-
ally. The small town hosts the fascinating Pavlovsk Palace,
encompassed by a huge 1,500 English-style acre park. Tall
trees, winding streams and endless paths scattered with
classical statues and flanked by benches make for many a
secluded spot. The perfect place to get away from the hus-
tle and bustle of the big city!
June - July 2018 51
 Suburbs and Royal Residences
PAVLOVSK PALACE
To look at the palace now, you’d never know that the Russian
army liberated a smoking ruin back in 1944. Within and with-
out the palace has been restored to such an extent that Maria
Feodorovna could walk back in through the front doors and
immediately take up her domestic life without even a blink.
Her bedroom and library are stunning works of craftsman-
ship and beauty while several rooms and enclaves reflect
Paul’s obsession with the military and penchant for Roman
classicism. Art objects and personal effects, such as the toilet-
ry set presented to the Empress by Marie Antoinette, abound
and there’s even a costume display. Together these rooms
and objects paint a portrait of 18th century aristocracy that
is both opulent and intimate.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, cosed
Fri and first Mon of the month. Admission 200 - 500Rbl.
CATHEDRAL OF ST. NICHOLAS
An Orthodox church built in 1900-1904 in honor of a by
then long dead Pavel I, the multi-domed cathedral is
topped with an equal mix of Orthodox crosses and Impe-
rial eagles. Like many places of worship the cathedral was
neglected under Soviet rule and used for purposes wildly
divergent from the original, including stints as a military
repair shop and storage facility. Reconsecrated in 1991,
regular services are now held and the interior contains
choir space and a restored iconostasis with donated icons.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission free.
BIP FOTRESS
Built on the site of Swedish fortifications there was a small
palace that would later be turned into a fortress complete
with towers and a drawbridge. Construction was complet-
ed in 1798, but Paul would only be able to enjoy his fortress
for three years before his murder in 1801. Subsequently the
fortress would serve as Russia’s first school for the deaf and
mute, an infirmary, various schools and municipal offices.
Another restoration masterpiece following its destruction
during World War II, the current fortress is closed to the
public but makes an imposing hill-top sight.
TEMPLE OF FRIENDSHIP
The circular Dorian temple has sixteen columns and was
the first structure to be built on the site by architect Charles
Cameron in 1782. Tellingly, it was not a tribute to Paul and
his family who would reside there but was instead dedicat-
ed to Catherine the Great and depicted her as the goddess
Minerva in a statue that was unfortunately destroyed while
being transported in 1938.
52 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
THE ROSE PAVILION
Another structure that was completely annihilated during
World War II yet rose from the ashes during the restora-
tion works, the Rose Pavilion is placed at the nexus of four
regions of the park and occasionally hosts classical music
concerts in the summer. Details on the ceiling frescos, light
fixtures and services all reflect the theme of the rose, queen
of flowers.
MASOLEUM
Designed in the style of a Roman pavilion, a fitting tribute
to Paul I’s taste, the mausoleum set in a rambling, unkempt
wood is well suited to calm reflection. Though no one is
actually buried here, the austere building is crowned with
masks of mourning and a pseudo-gravestone can be seen
from the wrought-iron gates that bar the entrance. A sculp-
tural monument of a robed, kneeling woman, arm out-
stretched on the would-be tomb inspired Alexander Push-
kin, the great poet, to note “Her anguish, her despair are
boundless. The smiling morn sees her grieving, the warm
sun cannot dry her tears, and the pale moon, daughter of
the silent night, finds her alone with her sorrow”.
MILK DAIRY
A simple affair of unworked stone and a thatched roof, the
dairy was constructed on the orders of Maria Feodorovna
and reflects her desire for a simple family life apart from the
intrigues of court. Distinguished guests would be offered
simple country fare and dairy products in contrast to the
riches of the palace table.
WHAT’S ON
This summer, the “Imperial Bouquet” International Festival
of Flower and Landscape Art will take place for the 18th
time. The festival continues the historical and cultural tra-
dition established by Empress Maria Feodorovna, the first
owner of the Pavlovsk Palace. Over two days expert florists
will present their original compositions in Pavlovsk Park,
as well as conduct workshops on decorating vases and
drawing up bouquets. Fashion enthusiasts will also want to
visit the “Laces and Fans” temporary exhibition dedicated to
items of clothing – as well as accessories like fans – made
fully or partly out of lace.
www.pavlovskmuseum.ru
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Suburbs and Royal Residences
STRELNA
The historic settlement of Strelna is situated approximately
half-way between the city of St. Petersburg and the UN-
ESCO World Heritage Site of Peterhof and definitely has
enough to keep visitors busy for a day or two! Strelna over-
looks the picturesque Gulf of Finland, the easternmost seg-
ment of the Baltic Sea.
In 1714, Strelna was chosen by Peter the Great as a place
for his future summer house and he commissioned Jean
Baptiste Le Blond, famous for his work with André Le Nôtre
at Versailles, to prepare designs for a palace and park. Le
Blond envisaged the palace as a Château d’Eau, situated on
a round island. The gardens were laid out to Le Blond’s de-
sign, but the master’s death prevented him from complet-
ing a more elaborate project for the palace.
A cornerstone was laid in June 1720, but next year it be-
came apparent that the place was ill-adapted for instal-
lation of fountains, thus Peter decided to concentrate his
attention on the nearby Peterhof. Disappointed, Michetti
left Russia, and all works in Strelna were suspended. On as-
cending the throne in 1741, Peter’s daughter Elizabeth was
determined to complete her father’s project. Her favorite
architect, Bartolomeo Rastrelli, was asked to expand and
aggrandize Michetti’s design. But Rastrelli’s attention was
soon diverted to other palaces, in Peterhof and Tsarskoye
Selo, so the Strelna palace stood unfinished until the end
of the century.
In 1797, Strelna was granted to Grand Duke Konstantin
Pavlovich (second son of Paul I) and his wife Grand Duch-
ess Anna Feodorovna (aunt of Queen Victoria). Despite a
great fire in 1803, the Konstantin Palace was completed
by 1807. After 1917 the palace fell into decay: it was
handed over to a child labor commune, then to a second-
ary school. For a period during World War II, the Germans
occupied Strelna and had a naval base there. It took al-
most six decades following the end of the war for reno-
vation works to start; in 2001 Vladimir Putin ordered the
palace to be converted into a presidential residence for
St. Petersburg.
Today, there is a pronounced feeling of abandonment
which has settled over the entire town making it a reprieve
from the tourist crowds which choke Peterhof’s fountains
and crowd onto Pushkin’s lawns. The main attraction is the
Presidential residence on the Gulf coast and an Imperial
history going back to the first days of St. Petersburg’s settle-
ment. Konstaninovsky Palace is a place where the Imperial
age merges with Russia’s contemporary era.
KONSTANTINOVSKY PALACE
The immense and costly restoration works were carried out
at Putin’s initiative and the abandoned palace was restored
to become the newest Presidential residence, where the G8
meeting was held in 2006. Historically speaking, two of the
Palace’s original owners bore the name of Konstantin, giv-
ing their name to the Palace. After the 1917 Revolution, the
Palace fell into disrepair. Nowadays, the public can enjoy
the immaculate and tidy lawns and can visit the Palace by
joining an organized tour. Admission is possibly only on a
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scheduled tour, the timetable of which changes daily. Visi-
tors are advised to arrive early as tour numbers are limited
to around 15 people and tickets sell fast. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 150 - 400Rbl. www.
konstantinpalace.ru
WOODEN PALACE OF PETER THE GREAT
Part history museum, part royal home, this yellow wooden
palace is a real find. If you don’t speak or read Russian, we rec-
ommend you invest in ordering an English excursion to get
the most out of the museum. The museum’s first section fol-
lows the planning and beginning of construction of the Kon-
stantinovsky Palace in 1717, its abandonment and descent
into ruins, then the restoration to Imperial Palace and even-
tual use as a hospital during the First World War. Biographical
information about the successive Romanov owners is also
found as well as interesting imperial artefacts. Different por-
celain vases from China, European dishes and urns collected
by Peter the Great decorate the rooms testifying to the in-
ternational focus that St. Petersburg’s founder had. QOpen
10:30 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Admission 150 - 400Rbl.
OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST
There are several other Romanov residences located in or
near Strelna. The baroque Znamenka, designed by Rastrelli,
used to be a home to the Nikolaevichi branch of the Ro-
manovs. The neoclassical Mikhailovka palace once belonged
to the Mikhailovichi branch of the family. All these are in-
cluded in the World Heritage List. Other landmarks in Strelna
include a dacha of Mathilde Kschessinska and the ruined
Maritime Monastery of St. Sergius, with numerous churches
by Luigi Rusca. The monastery is noted as a burial place of the
Zubov brothers and other Russian nobles.
WHAT’S ON
If you do venture out to Strelna during your stay, make
sure to check out the portrait of D. S. Yakovleva painted
by Vladimir Borovikovsky in 1801. This very special mini-
exhibition at the Konstantin Palace is a good example of
the painter’s more mature works thanks to the originality of
the composition and the flawless execution.
www.peterhofmuseum.ru/objects/strelna
June - July 2018 53
 Suburbs and Royal Residences
PETERHOF
Accurately referred to as the “Russian Versailles”, Peterhof is
one of Russia’s number one tourist attractions. It is particu-
larly spectacular from late-May to mid-October, when the
147 fountains are turned on, but even so it is well worth
visiting at any other time of year.
Although Peterhof is the creation of Peter the Great - more
than ten of his handmade drawings in reference to Peter-
hof along with numerous sketches with his notes have
been preserved – the tsars and tsarinas that followed each
wanted to make their own mark, adding another palace or
fountain to the grounds.
In 1917, following the Russian Revolution, Peterhof became
a large educational center. During World War II, the German
occupiers destroyed the palaces and the park. The recon-
struction began from the first days of the liberation. Thanks
to the work of military engineers as well as over 1,000 vol-
unteers, the Lower Park opened to the public in 1945 and
the facades of the Grand Palace were restored in 1952. Today,
this nature and man-made masterpiece welcomes guests,
impressing and surprising them, just like before. In 1990, Pe-
terhof was included in the world’s list of intangible cultural
heritage of UNESCO and in 2008 was recognized as one of
the seven wonders of Russia.
The focal point of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping
cascade fountain leading down from the palace. The most fa-
mous ensemble of fountains, the Grand Cascade, which runs
from the northern facade of the Grand Palace to the Marine
Canal, comprises 64 different fountains and over 200 bronze
statues, bas-reliefs, and other decorations. At the center
stands Rastrelli’s spectacular statue of Samson wrestling the
jaws of a lion. The vista of the Grand Cascade with the Grand
Palace behind it, the first sight to great visitors who arrive to
Peterhof by sea, is truly breathtaking. From there, the park
spreads out to the left and right along the coastline with trick
fountains, pyramid fountains, marble sculptures and lots of
other impressive displays. Peterhof is an encyclopedia of park
design through the age of an empire.
GRAND PALACE
The Grand Palace at Peterhof was designed to be the cen-
terpiece of Peterhof. Beige and white, the palace is majes-
tic without being overwhelming and provides the perfect
backdrop both to the elegantly formal Upper Garden and
to the spectacular Grand Cascade. Inside, the Grand Palace
is considerably more lavish; the interiors are in fact a com-
bination of original designs by Rastrelli and renovations
54 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
by Yurii Felten and Vallin de la Mothe during the reign of
Catherine the Great. Visitors can expect a fascinating jour-
ney around the magical palace, filled with objects of art,
splendid furniture and stunning sculptures. QOpen 10:30
- 19:00, Sat 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the
month. Admission 300 - 1,000Rbl.
FOUNTAINS OF PETERHOF
Apart from the Grand Cascade, Peterhof is home to many
other splendid fountains. The range and diversity of foun-
tains is astounding, from further monumental ensembles
like the Chess Cascade and the Pyramid Fountain, to the
ever-popular Joke Fountains, including one which sprays
unsuspecting passers-by who step on a particular paving
stone. If you’re already planning your next visit to St. Peters-
burg, make sure to time it with the official opening of the
fountains in Peterhof, which usually takes place at the end
of May. This is an all-day festival, with classical music, fire-
works and other performances, as each section of the park’s
fountains is turned on one by one. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 250 - 900Rbl.
MONPLAISIR
Directly on the shore of the
Gulf of Finland, there is the
favorite suburban palace of
Peter the Great - Monplaisir
(meaning “my delight” in
French). The exterior and
interior were defined by the
sketches and the schematic
drawings of the Tsar himself.
Not surprisingly, for this rea-
son Monplaisir vaguely re-
sembles a Dutch Colonial mansion, with its high gabled roof
over the central corpus and narrow rectangular windows to
keep out the wintry north wind. Monplaisir was completed
by 1723, and became Peter’s preferred retreat, where he en-
tertained only his closest friends and advisors. Inside you’ll
find an intriguing mixture of grandeur and homely comfort,
with its pretty Dutch-tiled pantry, where Peter’s wife Cath-
erine would herself cook for guests, and the cozy Maritime
Study. If you arrive to Peterhof by boat, Monplaisir is one of
the first sights to greet you. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed
last Mon of the month. Admission 200 - 500Rbl.
MARLY PALACE
The elegant two-storey Marly Palace is the main sight of the
western part of the Lower Park. It received its name thanks to
the similarly to the residence of French king Louis XIV, Marly-
le-Roi, which Peter visited in 1717. The palace is located at
the border of the western part of the Lower Park and stands
on the artificial viaduct between the Sectoral and the Large
Marly ponds, used for fish breeding since the times of Peter
the Great. This tradition lives on in our days; during specific
hours visitors can witness the daily fish feedings. Today, the
palace is a sort of memorial to Peter the Great, boasting a col-
lection of the great emperor’s personal belongings. QOpen
10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 150 - 400Rbl.
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
Suburbs and Royal Residences
HERMITAGE PAVILION
In the 18th century it was fashionable among wealthy Europe-
ans to construct special pavilions called “Hermitages” or “places
for seclusion”. The first Russian Hermitage was built in Peterhof
by decree of Peter the Great. This graceful two-storey Peterhof
Hermitage on a moted island right on the shore of the Gulf
of Finland was envisioned by Peter the Great as an informal
dining room for his closest associates. Designed by Johann
Braunstein, the Hermitage was begun in 1721, but not com-
pleted until shortly after Peter’s death. Today the Hermitage is
home to paintings, landscapes and battle scenes by French,
Dutch, Flemish and German artists of the 17th and 18th cen-
turies, which were chosen from the stocks of the State Hermit-
age to approximate the tastes of Peter. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00.
Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 400Rbl.
ALEXANDRIA
The palace and park ensemble Alexandria was a favorite
summer vacation spot of four generations of the Romanov
dynasty. It adjoins to the eastern border of the official em-
peror’s residence. The parkland was named after Alexandra
Fedorovna, the wife of Nicholas I. The emperor commis-
sioned Adam Menelaws, a Scottish architect and landscape
gardener, to create an English-style estate with a “cottage”
palace and home-farm. These days, one does not need to
be a royal to enjoy the parkland around the palace: today,
Alexandria is a beautiful place for family getaways thanks to
various playgrounds, festivals, interactive programs, histori-
cal reconstructions and plenty of opportunities for walking
around one of the most beautiful suburban parks of the
country. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 100 - 300Rbl.
WHAT’S ON
A couple of events are
scheduled for this summer
as well. For example, the
Benois Museum is hold-
ing a special exhibition on
the culture of card-playing
across many countries and
time periods. “Alexandria’s
Carousel” in Alexandria
Park has already become a
tradition: bright court feasts, a fairy-tale atmosphere and
the unforgettable beauty of the Peterhof parks are sure to
amaze even the pickiest guests. The exhibition titled “Peter-
hof in 9x4” showcases a huge collection of postcards from
the early 20th century that offer a glimpse of how tourists
of those times enjoyed themselves in Peterhof. Engage
your hearing senses in Marly Palace, which has organized
a very special audio exhibition “The Sounds of the Palace”.
Guests can “listen in” on happenings from everyday life at
the imperial palace from different eras. Last but not least,
the “Petrograd in 1917” exhibition is a multimedia chroni-
cle of the events leading up to the revolution that would
change Russia and the world forever.
www.peterhofmuseum.ru
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GETTING THERE
PETERHOF
By bus: From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka
103, 420. From Avtovo metro station: marshrutka 224,
300, 424, 424a, public bus 200, 210. From Baltiskaya
metro station: marshrutka 404. From Pr. Veteranov
metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b.
By hydrofoil: The Meteor speedboat leaves from Admi-
ralteiskaya nab. 2 (Pier with Lions) near Dvortsovy (Pal-
ace) Bridge. The hydrofoil comes directly to the Lower
park of Peterhof. Departure St. Petersburg - Peterhof:
10:00 - 18:00, every 30 minutes. Tickets 400 - 1,500Rbl.
By train: From Baltisky train station take a train to Novy
Peterhof (bound for Oranienbaum or Kalishe). Once
in Novy Peterhof, take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355,
356, warn the driver that you want to exit next to the
fountains.
Oranienbaum
By bus: From Avtovo metro station: marshrutka 300,
424A, bus 200.
By train: From Baltisky train station take a train bound
for Oranienbaum or Kalishe.
STRELNA
By bus: From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka
103, 420. From Avtovo metro station marshrutka 224,
300, 404 or 424, public bus 200, 210. From Baltiskaya
metro station: marshrutka 404. From Pr. Veteranov
metro station: marshrutka 343, 392, 850.
By train: From Baltisky train station take a train to Strel-
na (bound for Oranienbaum or Kalishe).
GATCHINA:
By bus: From Moskovskaya metro station (in the street
behind the Lenin statue) marshrutka 18, 18A, public
bus 431.
By train: From Baltisky train station take a train to
Gatchina.
PUSHKIN:
By bus: From Moskovskaya metro station: marshrutka
286, 287, 342, 347, 545. From Kupchino metro station:
marshrutka 286, 287, 347a, 545a, bus 186.
By train: From Vitebsky train station take a train to Det-
skoe Selo. From Detskoe selo walk up the hill through
the town for about 20 minutes to reach the palaces, or
take one of the public buses 371 or 382 from near the
station exit.
PAVLOVSK:
By bus: From Kupchino metro station marshrutka 286,
545A, 521. From Moskovskaya metro station marshrut-
ka 299, 545.
By train: From Vitebsky train station or Kupchino train
station take a train to Pavlovsk station which is just next
to the entrance to the Pavlovsk park.
June - July 2018 55
 Suburbs and Royal Residences
ORANIENBAUM
Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn’t quite as popular among
tourists as other similar palaces, but it’s nonetheless a lovely
place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens
and pine woods. Still commonly known by its post-war
name of Lomonosov, the estate at Oranienbaum is the
oldest of the Imperial Palaces around St. Petersburg. Prince
Alexander Menshikov, one of Peter the Great’s best friends,
started building the estate and its Grand Palace. The Palace
is one of the most opulent examples of Petrine architecture
to have survived to the present.
In 1743, some years following Menshikov’s death, Empress
Elizabeth presented the estate to her nephew, the future
Peter III, who made Oranienbaum his official summer resi-
dence. Antonio Rinaldi, the Italian-born architect who also
designed the Grand Palace at Gatchina and the Marble Pal-
ace in St. Petersburg, was commissioned by Peter in 1758
to build a modest stone palace next to the fortress, and this
has survived till this day.
After Peter III was deposed, Catherine the Great made it one
of her holiday spots and commissioned Rinaldi to build a
small Chinese palace in the Upper Park with baroque on the
outside and rococo within. Unfortunately, Catherine spent
little time at Oranienbaum and eventually even grew to
hate it during her marriage to Peter, and by the end of the
18th century the estate had been turned into a Naval Cadet
College. Oranienbaum once again became an Imperial resi-
dence during the reign of Alexander I, retaining this status all
the way up until the Russian Revolution in 1917. After the
Bolsheviks came to power, Oranienbaum was immediately
transformed into a museum and opened to the public.
Although never captured by the Germans, Oranienbaum
was bombarded during the war. While the Grand Menshi-
kov Palace survived intact, its restoration was not as high
on the agenda as the more famous estates at Peterhof and
Tsarskoe Selo. Today, this elegant little park has been almost
completely restored, giving a unique insight into the lives
of Russia’s Imperial family virtually since the founding of St.
Petersburg itself.
GRAND MENSHIKOV PALACE
Menshikov commissioned architects Giovanni Maria Fontana
and Gottfried Schädel to build his residence from 1710 to
1727. The central part of the Palace is connected by two gal-
leries with two domed Japanese and Church Pavilions. Fac-
ing the sea, with a two-level terrace in front of it, this charm-
ing yellow and white building consists of a concave central
56 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
block with two single-storey galleries leading to prominent
octagonal pavilions, one of which houses the palace chapel.
The Palace is located near the Lower Park, whose composite
axis is a channel leading to the sea. This channel is an imita-
tion of one designed by Peter himself at his nearby residence
of Peterhof Palace. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Tue and
last Wed of the month. Admission 150 - 400Rbl.
PETER III’S PALACE
Built between 1758 and 1762 by Antonio Rinaldi, the small
Palace of Peter III is, along with the nearby Gate of Honor,
all that remains of Petershtadt, the model fortress that Peter
III had built for himself. It is a simple but attractive example
of early neoclassicism. A compact, two-storey mansion, the
palace was designed for Peter to live in alone (the small size
of the living and sleeping quarters is quite telling of that). Al-
though it is probably one of the less impressive structures of
the estate, visitors can enjoy the Picture Hall, which has a de-
cent collection of 18th century art and the ceiling of Peter’s
boudoir is painted with scenes of life in Petershtadt. QOpen
10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 150 - 400Rbl.
THE CHINESE PALACE
The name is deceiving – there is nothing overtly Chinese
about this charming building in the southern corner of
the park at Oranienbaum. In 1762, Empress Catherine II or-
dered the construction of the suburb residence called “My
Own Countryside House”. For that purpose Rinaldi built the
Chinese Palace (1762-1768), a mix of Baroque architecture,
Classicism and Chinese motifs. From the outside, the Chi-
nese Palace is a relatively simple building - single-storey
except for the small central pavilion, painted in a mellow
combination of ochre and yellow. The 17 rooms inside, dec-
orated by Rinaldi and other leading artists and craftsmen
of the day, feature pink, blue and green scagliola, painted
silks and intricate stucco work. Rinaldi’s parquet floors are
wonderfully ornate, using several types of rare Russian and
imported wood. Among the highlights of the Chinese Pal-
ace interiors is the Glass Beaded Salon, the walls of which
are hung with 12 panels of richly colored tapestries depict-
ing exotic birds and fauna. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed
Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 200 - 500Rbl.
WHAT’S ON
While restoration of the West-
ern wing of the Grand Palace
has been finished, Peterhof
offers residents and guests of
the city a new historical mu-
seum project – “Oranienbaum
through Centuries”. Through-
out several halls, traditional ex-
position methods and brand-
new multimedia technologies are united. Visitors can now
travel through space and time to get a better understand-
ing of the palace’s and the entire region’s history.
www.peterhofmuseum.ru/objects/oranienbaum
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
Suburbs and Royal Residences
GATCHINA
Perhaps the most neglected of St. Petersburg’s suburban
palaces in the post-war period, Gatchina is also probably the
most lived-in, with four Tsars considering it their family home.
Khotchino (old name of Gatchina) was first documented in
1499 as a village in possession of Novgorod the Great. In the
17th century, in a series of wars, it passed to Livonia, then to
Sweden, and was returned to Russia during the Great North-
ern War. In 1708, Gatchina was given by Peter the Great to his
sister Natalia Alexeyevna, and after her death, Peter founded
an Imperial Hospital and Apothecary here. In 1765, it became
the property of Count Orlov. Between 1766 and 1788, Count
Orlov built a somber castle with 600 rooms and laid out an
extensive English landscape park over 7 square kilometers
with an adjacent zoo and a horse farm. Catherine the Great
took such a great liking to the Gatchina Palace and park that
after Orlov’s death in 1783 she bought Gatchina and granted
it to her son, the Grand Duke Paul (the future Emperor Paul I).
Paul I remained the owner of Gatchina for 18 years and dur-
ing this time he invested many resources as well as using his
experience from his travels around Europe to make Gatchina
an exemplary town and residence.
After Paul’s death his widow, Maria Fyodorovna owned
the grand palace and park from 1801 to 1828. Then Em-
peror Nicholas I took over ownership from 1828 to 1855.
He made the most significant expansion of the palaces and
parks, adding the Arsenal Halls to the main palace.
THE GRAND PALACE
Tsar Alexander II used Gatchina Palace as his second residence.
He built a hunting village and other additions for his Imperial
Hunting Crew and turned the areas south of Gatchina into his
retreat, where the Tsar and his guests could indulge in living
country-style among unspoiled wilderness and woods. Tsar
Alexander III, after experiencing the trauma of his father’s as-
sassination, made Gatchina his prime residence. During his
reign, Alexander III introduced major technological moderni-
zation in the Gatchina Palace and parks, such as electric lights,
telephone network, non-freezing water pipes and a modern
sewage system. Nicholas II, the last Russian Tsar, spent his
youth in the Gatchina Palace. Gatchina was honored as the
best-kept city of Russia at the 1900 World’s Fair in Paris. The
quality of life, education, medical services, and public safety
in Gatchina were recognized as the best, and it was recom-
mended as an example for other cities in Russia.
Following the Russian Revolution in 1917 and until 1941,
the Gatchina Palace and parks were open to the public as a
national museum. The Nazis looted much of the Gatchina
Palace collections of art, while occupying it for almost three
years during World War II. The Gatchina Palace and park
were severely burnt, vandalized, and destroyed by the re-
treating Germans – the mess it was left in was considered
irreparable damage. Restoration works took place nonethe-
less and continued for over 60 years after the war.QOpen
11:00 - 19:00. Admission 200 - 400Rbl.
www.gatchinapalace.ru
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PRIORY PALACE
Priory Palace is Gatchina’s architectural landmark. The Palace
was constructed of rammed earth in 1799 and is the only
palace of its kind in Russia. The palace’s architect, Nikolay
Lvov, was an outstanding enlightener of the 18th century, a
talented engineer and inventor who excelled in a wide vari-
ety of fields. The Palace is now going through a new period
in its existence. The most interesting exhibit here is the palace
itself with its fascinating name, history and architecture. Ef-
forts are being made to revive old traditions at Priory Palace.
One of them relates to concerts at the Capella, which are
now frequented by concert-goers who appreciate wonderful
acoustics, a bright hall and excellent performances.QOpen
11:00 - 19:00. Admission 100 - 200Rbl.
GATCHINA PARK
Consider starting the park tour from the Jordan porch, offer-
ing a splendid vista of the Silver clearing and the opposite
bank of the White Lake. Go on then to see the Private Garden
and the adjacent parks (the Lime Tree Garden, Upper and
Lower Dutch Gardens), the Carp Bridge with a cascade, the
Carp pond with a series of bridges (Corps de Garde Bridge, the
Three-arch Bridge and the former Ferry Bridge) and the Admi-
ralty. Take a boating trip to enjoy panoramic views of the Sil-
ver Lake with its numerous islands. Of the buildings from the
18th century that have been fully restored, the Birch House is
probably the most interesting, as is Brenna’s Pavilion of Venus.
It was inspired by Paul and Maria Feodorovna’s visit to Prince
Conde’s residence at Chantilly. And don’t forget to toss a coin
in the Jordan Well for good luck or if you want to come back
here again!QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. Admission free.
WHAT’S ON
The first weekend of June is the official opening of the sum-
mer season at the park, which is accompanied by plays, con-
certs, tours, contests, master-classes and much more. Fun for
the whole family! On June 7, music fans will take over the
park for “Music Night in Gatchina” to listen to Russian and for-
eign musicians perform classical music under the stars. The
music and culture continues between June 13 and 15 with
the “Operetta Park” festivities. “Operetta Park” is a joint project
of Gatchina and the St. Petersburg Theater of Musical Com-
edy – a creative team made of some 300 people, spread over
four stages and offering 7,500 seats for three whole evenings
of charming, life-loving operetta performances. And the last
weekend of July will offer something for jazz lovers. The aptly
named “Jazz Weekend” festival will take place throughout
four stages and showcase the best of Russian and interna-
tional jazz talent in an open-air format.
June - July 2018 57

GORKI Golf & Resort
Golf in Russia is still in its early stages of
development but it has already become one of the
hottest spots for the golf industry. However, there
is still a stereotype that golf is a game for rich older
men, so the GORKI Golf & Resort is working to
dispel these convoluted beliefs.
58 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
ST. PETERSBURG –
A NEW GOLF DESTINATION!
Golf courses have always been associated with natural
beauty and tranquility. There, players feel worlds away from
reality - with the silence disturbed only by a club’s swish or
a native bird singing. The sport is enjoyed by participants of
all ages and abilities, in many different countries around the
world. Golf has also been reputed to be the largest sport
travel market. Golf in Russia is still in its early stages of de-
velopment but it has already become one of the hottest
spots for the golf industry. The first golf course was founded
in 1989 in Moscow, and the first professional champion-
ship-level field was built only in 1993 in the Moscow Re-
gion. Now, basically all the golf courses are in the Moscow
Region. However, one of the regions actively developing at
the moment is the North-West. St. Petersburg in general is
a novice in the field of golf, like all of Russia, and until re-
cently had only one golf course, which was a 3-hole course
and driving range of the Dune Golf Club located in the Re-
sort Area. No other project of 18-hole golf courses was as
successful as the Gorki Golf club project once it opened.
In Russia, there is still a stereotype that golf is a game for
rich older men, so the GORKI Golf Club is working to dispel
these convoluted beliefs.
The GORKI Golf Club project was started in 2010. The archi-
tect for the project was the famous Finnish architect Lassi Ti-
lander, whose work was highly appreciated by the experts of
the European Golf Association and is included in the rating of
the top 100 golf courses in Europe. In 2011 the construction
of the field began and already in May, 2013 the golf academy
was opened. In 2014, 9 holes of the championship field were
completed and the opening of the restaurant and the club
house took place. September, 2015 saw the grand opening
of the 18-hole championship course.
Now the club is a golf resort of an international standard
with an 18-hole championship course and a developed
infrastructure. Several Russian and international compe-
titions have already been held on its territory. Gorki has
become a club that unifies generations, a family club, a fa-
vorite hobby for many, a venue for corporate events and an
excellent relaxation place for the business executives of St.
Petersburg. The course of the golf club certainly deserves
the attention of foreign golfers. It was built in accordance
with the standards of the best course management - R & A
and is a Scottish Inland Links Course. By all standards, such
a course can host international competitions of any level.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
GORKI Golf & Resort
SIGHTSEEING AND GOLF
The 2017 World Travel Awards has named Russia’s St. Pe-
tersburg the best tourist destination in Europe for the sec-
ond time since 2015. Also, for the third consecutive year St.
Petersburg was named the best tourist destination in Rus-
sia according to the Travelers’ Choice rating on the travel
website TripAdvisor. A city of sensational architecture, mag-
nificent landscapes, innumerable canals, unique galleries,
colorful history and the poetic White Nights, St. Petersburg
definitely possesses a charm of its own, which establishes
it as one of the most beautiful cities in the world. For your
trip to St. Petersburg a unique combination of tourism and
golf can be offered.
GORKI Golf & Resort is located about 50 kilometers away
from St. Petersburg, the road from the city center takes
just over an hour. A distinct advantage for club guests – its
closeness to such pearls of architecture as Peterhof, Strelna,
Gatchina, Pavlovsk and Tsarskoye Selo.
GORKI GOLF & RESORT
INFRASTRUCTURE
The infrastructure of the Club is growing every year. The
temperamentality of the northern climate is easily dealt
with when, after a long game, players reach the comfort-
able changing rooms and rest area. On the territory of the
resort you can find the Gorki Golf & Resort Hotel 4* (the
first golf hotel in St. Petersburg), as well as villas for sale for
those who want to permanently reside in the resort.
The hotel’s decoration reflects the general concept of the
resort. Ecology and practicality can be felt in everything
- rest, communication and time spent out in the nature.
These elegant interiors, formed primarily by natural wood
and its lighter shade, are reminiscent of the Scandinavian
minimalism of the 1960’s. The hotel is open to both lovers
of the game and those who would like to relax in comfort
with privacy and exclusivity. It offers 26 standard rooms, 4
family rooms with a loft, 2 junior suites rooms with a living
room and bedroom, as well as 2 luxury suites. A couple of
the two-bedroom suites boast stunning panoramic views
over the beautiful Links course.
It is important to note that golf and other sporting activities
are not the only things on offer. The hotel is an ideal place
for large events and business groups providing a confer-
ence room and a conference hall, both fitted with all the
necessary state of the art equipment required for meetings
and presentations. From the conference room it is possible
to access the roof and continue discussions on the terrace
June - July 2018 59
 GORKI Golf & Resort
with wonderful views of the course. The efficient design
TOURNAMENTS of the conference hall means that it can be quickly trans-
formed into the perfect place for receptions of any kind.
It is also possible to have a buffet table out on the open
terraces. Gorki Golf & Resort Hotel is ideal for private events.
It offers a wide range of opportunities when it comes to
organizing weddings, banquets or corporate events - all
with the support of experienced staff who have long been
involved in all things relating to hospitality and events.
Categorized as a 4-star hotel, the rooms have all that you
need for a great getaway. In the area around the reception
on the ground floor there is a bar for guests to enjoy both
alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. There is also the op-
portunity to purchase essential goods and souvenirs in the
hotel lobby. Among the many advantages of Gorki Golf &
Resort, there are 8 comfortable panoramic cottages with a
For lovers of nature and sport, if you haven’t total capacity of up to 40 people. Cozy golf bungalows are
discovered GORKI Golf & Resort yet, then now is ideal for both a small family and a big company.
the time. As the first 18-hole golf course in the Full of light, cozy and elegant - the restaurant is one of the
north-western region, GORKI Golf & Resort cer- most beloved places for the resort’s guests. The restaurant
tainly holds some prestige. You may not be lucky at the Clubhouse is designed in a classic style with Scot-
enough to get a hole in one, but new friends, ex- tish accents. Spread over two floors, it has a magnificent
pansive nature, exiting tournaments and total re- panoramic view of the golf course and the surrounding
laxation are definitely par for the course here at landscape. On warm and sunny days a breakfast or lunch
GORKI Golf & Resort. on the outdoor terrace of the restaurant can be enjoyed.
The restaurant serves dishes that are traditional for this
part of Russia and everything is prepared using only the
Date Event
freshest products according to special recipes. Following
June the current trends in Europe and the best restaurants in
1 Leningrad Region Golf Competition Russia, the menu includes only the finest organic produce.
2 Tour HCP 15 + The ingredients are sourced through specially authorized
4 World Corporate Golf Challenge eco-friendly providers and checked at each destination for
quality and freshness. You can be sure that the dishes from
11-14 The 3rd stage of the Junior Golf Tour the Gorki restaurant not only delight your tastebuds with
16 Kempinski Cup the finest taste, but are also good for your health and form!
20 GORKI vs SKOLKOVO
22 The Leningrad Region Governor's Cup
UNLIMITED GOLF 24/7
23 GORKI SPB Open
Depending on the season, everyone can find something to
GORKI White Nights 24 HRS their liking and have a fantastic time. The activities program
30
Golf Tournament is certainly varied: take part in excursions on golf carts, try
your hand (or foot, rather) at foot-golf, take pictures in the
open air or fly a helicopter! This, however, is not a complete
July list of the activities available. Nowadays, Gorki Golf & Resort
GORKI White Nights 24 HRS is open during the winter season as well, and can welcome
1
Golf Tournament guests 24 hours a day. Guests of the resort can arrange win-
3 GORKI vs PIROGOVO ter fishing and enjoy other activities such as skiing and ice-
7 Captains Cup skating and even play winter golf with glowing golf balls - a
Golf Championship of the North-Western unique feature not every golf club can offer!
14-15
Federal District
21-27 Club Championship Gorki Golf village (2 km from Gorki)
Lomonosovsky district, Leningrad region,
tel. (+7) 812 318 09 90, www.gorkigolf.ru.
Special event GORKI Golf & Resort is a one-hour drive from Pulkovo
On July 28 GORKI Golf & Resort invites everybody to International Airport, an hour and fifteen minutes
their special summer event “Monte Carlo Golf Picnic”. from Nevsky Prospekt and is only
Find more information online or by phone. 30 minutes from the Imperial palaces
at Peterhof and Strelna.
60 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
Whether you are visiting St. Petersburg for a night or a
month, you should stay in a hotel which lets you make the
most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels rang-
ing from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels
filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are
located and what market they cater to. The traveller look-
ing to stretch their budget will appreciate the centrally
located hostels and dormitories just as much as the high
flying business executive who is looking for a quiet place
to unwind after a hectic day of negotiations and cultural
programmes.
5 STARS
ANGLETERRE HOTEL
QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms.
AUTHOR BOUTIQUE HOTEL
QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 9, MDostoyevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
334 22 33, www.goldengarden.ru. 24 rooms.
BELMOND GRAND HOTEL EUROPE
QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.
CORINTHIA HOTEL ST. PETERSBURG
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380
20 01. 388 rooms.
DOMINA HOTEL ST. PETERSBURG
QС-3, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. 109 rooms.
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LION PALACE ST. PE-
TERSBURG
QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/.
183 rooms.
GRAND HOTEL EMERALD
QF-3, Suvorovsky pr. 18, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
740 50 00, www.grandhotelemerald.com. 90 rooms.
HOTEL ASTORIA
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms.
KEMPINSKI HOTEL MOIKA 22
QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg.
197 rooms.
LOTTE HOTEL ST. PETERSBURG
QD-3, Per. Antonenko 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 336
10 00, www.lottehotel.com/saintpetersburg. 150 rooms.
SOLO SOKOS HOTEL PALACE BRIDGE
QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms.
TALEON IMPERIAL HOTEL
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms.
RADISSON ROYAL HOTEL
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812
322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg.
SO SOFITEL ST. PETERSBURG
QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 610 61 61, www.sofitel.com. 137 rooms.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Hotels
Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg
4 STARS
AZIMUT HOTEL SAINT PETERSBURG
QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms.
COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT ST. PETERSBURG
CENTER WEST PUSHKIN HOTEL
QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via
Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610
50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273
rooms.
CROWNE PLAZA ST. PETERSBURG - LIGOVSKY
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms.
HOLIDAY INN MOSKOVSKYE VOROTA
QMoskovsky pr. 97A, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7)
812 448 71 27, www.hi-spb.com. 557 rooms.
NOVOTEL ST. PETERSBURG CENTRE
QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms.
PARK INN BY RADISSON NEVSKY
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269
rooms.
RADISSON SONYA HOTEL
QE-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg.
173 rooms .
SOKOS HOTEL VASILIEVSKY
QC-3, 9-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms.
3 STARS
3 MOSTA HOTEL
QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 3A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
611 11 86, www.3mosta.com. 26 rooms.
CRONWELL INN STREMYANNAYA
QE-3, Stremyannaya ul. 18, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 406 04 50, www.stremyannaya-hotel.com.
June - July 2018 61
 Hotels
INTERVIEW WITH CONCIERGE
Interview with Maria Se-
menova, Senior Concierge
at Belmond Grand Hotel
Europe.
Tell us few words about
your career. What do you
like the most about being
a concierge? My name is
Maria Semenova and I have
been working at the Belmond
Grand Hotel Europe for more than 10 years. I feel really
happy that once upon a time I came to this beautiful ho-
tel and met my wonderful team, who since then have
become my friends and family.
Each season has its advantages, what would you
recommend to tourists for a real Russian summer
experience? Summer is a magical time in St. Petersburg
and changes the city considerably. It becomes the spec-
tacular “Northern Venice”, the city of “White Nights” and
“Rising Bridges”. Small tip: summer is high tourist sea-
son so it is better to prepare and book your program in
advance to enjoy your stay to the fullest with the most
professional guides, the possibility to enter museums
without waiting in the long lines and the best opera or
ballet seats at very reasonable prices.
Which touristic city route and trips around the city
would you advise to guests who come only for a
weekend? Even if you come to St. Petersburg just for
a weekend, your concierge can put together a very ac-
tive and informative program. For example: first day -
general city tour on a private boat around the river and
canals of St. Petersburg and in the evening a visit to the
magnificent State Hermitage Museum. On the second
HAMPTON BY HILTON SAINT PETERSBURG
EXPOFORUM
QPeterburgskoe shosse 64/2, MMoskovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 647 74 74, www.hilton.ru.
HERZEN HOUSE
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 25, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel.ru. 29 rooms.
IBIS ST. PETERSBURG CENTRE
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
622 01 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms.
Registrations: all foreign visitors to Russia are
obliged to register within seven working days
(this excludes weekends and public holidays).
Remember your hotel is obliged to register
you. If a hotel refuses to register you, make
sure to demand this service – registration is
their responsibility, not yours!
62 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
day - a trip out of the city to one of our beautiful sub-
urbs - Pushkin or Peterhof, followed by a cultural even-
ing with a visit to the Mariinsky or Mikhailovsky theater
of opera and ballet.
Summer is the high season for cultural events. What
is at the top of your list of June/July events that
tourists should definitely attend? Its’ true that June
and July do have the most intensive cultural entertain-
ment program. This year we have the following interest-
ing events on the cultural calendar:
26 May – 23 July: Mariinsky theater “Stars of white
night” festival. This event is included in the top 10 best
festivals in the world. More than 160 concerts and perfor-
mances by world stars are on the bill.
14 June – 15 July: World Football Championship FIFA
2018. In St. Petersburg, the matches will be held at St.
Petersburg Arena. St. Petersburg will host matches of the
group stage of the tournament, as well as the 1/8 and 1/4
finals, the semi-final and the match for 3rd place.
June 23 – 24: “Scarlet Sails” is not only an event
for St. Petersburg’s graduates, but also a true tourist
brand of Russia’s Northern Capital that annually attracts
a multi-million audience.
14 – 22 July: St. Petersburg Sea Assembly. A sea fes-
tival with a large parade of sail boats and yachts in the
waters of the Neva River, a parade of passenger ships, a
SUP-surfing festival and the “Ballet of Sails” water show.
July 22: XXIX International Athletics Marathon
“White Nights”. The Marathon route passes along the
embankments and streets of historical St. Petersburg
starting from Palace Square.
July 29: Day Of The Military Sea Fleet.
HOSTELS
AQUAREL HOSTEL
QE-4, Voronezhskaya ul. 42a, MObvodny Kanal, tel.
(+7) 812 245 17 76, www.aquarel-hostel.ru.
CUBAHOSTEL
QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 911 921 71 15, www.cubahostel.ru.
NORD HOSTEL
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 571 03 42, www.nordhostel.com.
RAINBOW HOSTEL
QE-3, Ul. Dostoevskogo 36A, 8-H, MVladimirskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 572 21 10, www.rainbow-hostel.ru.
SIMPLE HOSTEL
QD-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 385 25 28, www.simplehostel.com.
SOUL KITCHEN HOSTEL
QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 62/2, ap.9, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 965 816 34 70, www.soulkitchenhostel.com.
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
SHOPPING CENTRES
Whether you’re after designer labels, Russian/Soviet souve-
nirs, electronics or beauty products, you can find them all
in St. Petersburg. A young generation of local designers are
constantly setting up new shops so if you’d prefer to get
something non-mainstream and more memorable during
your trip, there are plenty of options for that, too.
BOLSHOY GOSTINY DVOR
Not only a place for shopa-
holics but also for fans of
history and architecture,
Gostiny Dvor is one of
Nevsky Prospekt’s most fa-
mous landmarks, and has
been at the center of trade
in the city for 250 years.
A Gostiny Dvor (“Guests’
Court”) was once a feature
of all large Russian towns. The Russian equivalent of an
eastern bazaar, these buildings were retail points, ware-
houses and living quarters for merchants arriving from
far-flung corners of Russia and beyond. In St. Petersburg,
Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor was the largest of several such build-
ings, many of which have survived to the present day. Re-
stored and reconstructed from 1945 to 1955, the building
was transformed from 178 separate stores into one large
department store with the removal of its internal walls.
Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor now has 15,000 sq. meters of retail
space occupied by 122 different departments, and is still
St. Petersburg’s main department store, the first place
to look for anything from knitting needles to party sup-
plies. Today, one circuit of Gostiny Dvor, past the dozens
of shops and tiny stalls, is a kilometer. The first floor has
caviar, souvenirs, shoes, music and cosmetics. The second
floor has clothes, designer boutiques, toys, furs and hats.
Football fans can do all their shopping at the official FIFA
2018 shop, while Sreda Project is a new addition to the
department store, which aims to attract young, innova-
tive talent by offering the latest in local designer fashion,
a laidback co-working area and other creativity-inducing
spaces. QD-3, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
630 54 08, www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
GALERIA
The largest shopping mall
in the center of the city
and a stone’s throw away
from the Moscow Rail-
way Station, Galeria also
opened its doors to St.
Petersburg’s fashionistas
back in 2010. The shop-
ping center’s five floors
are home to more than 300 shops, 28 restaurants and
cafes and 10 cinema screens (including IMAX) so it’s ev-
erything you would expect from your modern shopping
mall and more. It boasts the largest selection of brands
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Shopping
AU PONT ROUGE
One of the first depart-
ment stores built in the
world, Au Pont Rouge
was founded in 1907
and then reopened
after 108 years in 2015.
The Imperial Family of
Russia was amongst
its first customers and
now you can share
their experience.
Nowadays, Au Pont
Rouge is a reflection of an eclectic, dynamic, bright
and rhythmic city where innovation, culture and tra-
ditions play important roles. With a developed retail
space of more than 4,000 sq. meters, Au Pont Rouge
has a unique assortment of concepts, including a cu-
rated mix of Russian gifts, a unique beauty space and,
of course, fashion. The store has a vibrant mix of the
most exciting and relevant fashion brands alongside
the hottest newcomers. As an added bonus, those
who ask nicely can go on a tour of the roof and the
Cupola!QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 73, MAdmiralteis-
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 244 97 84, www.aupontrouge.ru.
Open 10:00 - 22:00.
GOSHA RUBCHINSKY
One of the most interesting designers of this decade,
Gosha Rubchinskiy began his DIY approach to street
wear in 2008, with the production of just ten t-shirts. By
2012, he was selling over 50,000 worldwide. Today, the
photographer/designer has become the face of a new
generation of Russian youth. The directional designs
of Gosha Rubchinskiy are characterised by extravagant
details and have a Russian flair. The brand is known for
its’ street wear collections which are inspired by his own
youth, the punk scene and Russian hooligan (“gopnik”)
styles from the 1990’s. With all production handled by
Comme des Garçons, Gosha now presents full ready-to-
wear collections, including suiting, outerwear, denim and
accessories. Still, his graphic tees and hoodies hold a spe-
cial place in our hearts. QTel. (+7) 812 244 97 84, www.
gosharubchinskiy.com. To find in Au Pont Rouge.
June - July 2018 63
 Shopping
in St. Petersburg, from high street brands like Uniqlo, Mi-
chael Kors, Mango, Zara, DKNY, Victoria’s Secret, Patrizia
Pepe, Meucci, Armani, Calvin Klein and French Connec-
tion to accessories, sports equipment, quality footwear,
gift shops and more local Russian designer brands as
well. If with children, head to the top floor where there
is a huge pirate island-themed entertainment area called
Happylon for the young and young-at-heart and a but-
terfly park. There are plenty of cafes (Costa Coffee, Cof-
feeshop Company, Starbucks, etc.) and fast food eateries
(Burger King, Carls Junior, Ciao Pizza, Fire Wok Café, Mc-
Donald’s and more) for you to recharge your batteries.
For visitors who prefer a relaxing, sit down restaurant ex-
perience there are options for all tastes and budgets but
the most popular choice is Bolshaya Kukhnya, a trendy
restaurant which also has a balcony that offers sweeping
views of central St. Petersburg!QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A,
MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria.
spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
NEVSKY CENTRE
This shopping center in the historical heart of the city, just
across the street from Moscow Railway Station, opened
in 2010 and still looks new and modern inside and out.
Spread over 7 whole floors, Nevsky Center has around 100
retail shops offering big choice of fashion products and
services with a food-court, three-level underground park-
ing and modern Business Center with a view on the city.
DLT DEPARTMENT STORE
Dom Leningradskoi Tor-
govli (DLT, House of Len-
ingrad Trade) is one of the
oldest department stores
in St. Petersburg and a
legendary name for Rus-
sian market. Since 2005,
the building has been
under control of Mercury,
a leading luxury goods
distribution company. In 2012, after a long-term restoration,
DLT became the flagman of TSUM, Moscow-based depart-
ment store. DLT stands in a row with top Moscow and Eu-
ropean stores with its developed infrastructure, excellent
service and wide range of luxury goods. It is undoubtedly a
must-visit place of the city. DLT building with its 6 floors has
a total area of 32,000sq.m. Each floor is assigned for a special
category of goods: jewelry, accessories, cosmetics, perfum-
ery and interior items are represented on the 1st floor; men’s
and women’s clothing by luxury brands – on 2nd and 3rd
floor respectively, women’s clothing by modern designers,
denim and luggage – on the 4th floor. On the 5th floor you
will find kids’ clothing and accessories department, one of
the largest of its kind in Europe.QD-2, Bol. Konyushen-
naya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08
48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
64 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Anchored by the 19,000
sq. meter Stockmann, the
Finnish department store,
it is aimed at more up-
scale shoppers: Pandora,
Frey Wille, Gant, Lacoste,
Tommy Hilfiger and Högl
are just some of the ten-
ants. There’s also a huge
H&M for those looking to
buy something trendy without spending too much. Apart
from fashionable clothing, you can find cosmetics shops,
a Hamley’s for the little ones and those sophisticated bits
and bobs for the house all under one roof. Stockman’s su-
permarket, located in the basement of the shopping cen-
ter, has standard local foodstuffs and European products
for both the budget cook and the serious gourmet. The
top floor is all about health and beauty, with a spa, gym,
yoga studio, hair salon and Thai massage center. Refuel
and relax in Moskva, a delightful roof top restaurant, get
your caffeine fix at Starbucks or grab a bite at one of the
many other cafes conveniently located around the shop-
ping center. The best thing is that despite its size, Nevsky
Center is incredibly well thought out and easy to navigate:
the design of the galleries is based on the principle of a
classic theater which means it’s impossible to get lost.
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
PASSAGE
The historic Passage, a timeless building, has long await-
ed renovation. The dynamic rhythm of modern life now
harmoniously blends in with the atmosphere of the his-
toric St. Petersburg in the new concept of Passage. It has
a 180-meter long glass roof, easy jazz tunes flow through
the arcade and the luxurious interior is somewhat similar
to Moscow’s legendary GUM (though on a much smaller
scale). The renovation project is not yet fully complete and
not all new tenants have yet been confirmed, but at the
present day there is already a nice mix of international and
Russian fashion, beauty, jewellery and souvenirs. There’s
an enormous Rive Gauche cosmetics store with popular
beauty brands as well as more niche ones. In terms of food
and drink there’s only a Movenpick stand and a Costa Ex-
press but that doesn’t matter when in the heart of Nevsky
Prospekt with all its cafes and restaurants.QD-3, Nevsky
pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 09, www.
passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
ACCOUNTANTS
ACSOUR
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
454 44 24, www.acsour.com.
AVENIR GROUP
QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 23A, MVladimirskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 718 81 57, www.avenir.ru.
DELOITTE TOUCHE CIS
QC-2, VO, Sredny pr. 36/40, lit.K, business center
Gustaf, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 71 06,
www.deloitte.com.
ERNST AND YOUNG
QD-3, Ul. Mal. Morskaya 23A, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 703 78 34, www.ey.com.
KPMG
QE-4, Ul. Marata 69-71A, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
313 73 00, www.kpmg.ru.
MANNHEIMER SWARTLING
QD-2, Ul. Mal. Konyushennaya 1/3A, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 335 23 00, www.mannheimerswartling.se.
MAZARS
QC-2, 7-ya liniya 76, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
332 94 96, www.mazars.ru.
MOORE STEPHENS INTERNATIONAL
QE-1, Bolshoy Sampsonievsky pr. 4/6A, business centre
Monblan, off. 204, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 332 28 51,
www.moorestephens.ru.
CULTURAL CENTRES
AMERICAN CORNERS
QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 46, MMayakovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 710 60 32, www.am-corner.narod.ru/. Open
11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
BRITISH BOOK CENTRE
QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library im. Lermontova),
MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britania-spb.
ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
DANISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE
QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
571 74 66, www.dki.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
ESTONIAN CULTURAL CENTER JAANI KIRIK
QC-3, Ul. Dekabristov. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 19:00.
FINNISH INSTITUTE
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. Open 11:00 -
17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
FOREIGN LITERATURE LIBRARY
QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44/46, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00,
closed Sun.
U vas est visitka? –
Do you have a business card?
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Expat & Lifestyle
EMG
Everything you need to survive business-wise in the
Russian market, EMG (Emerging Markets Group) In-
ternational can help with. This American-Russian
company in St. Petersburg is specialised in accounting
and legal personnel. Their clients are not any ordinary
clients, but include names like Ikea, Jensen Group and
Shell Oil. QС-4, 10-ya Krasnoarmeiskaya ul. 22, off.
69, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 77 81, www.emg-
russia.com.
GOETHE INSTITUTE
QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/stpetersburg. Open 09:00 -
19:00, closed Sat, Sun Library open Tue, Wed 15:00 - 19:00,
Thu, Fri 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 14:00 - 17:00, closed Mon, Sun.
INSTITUT FRANCAIS
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571
09 95, www.ifspb.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 -
17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
ISTITUTO ITALIANO DI CULTURA
QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Open 09:00
- 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
THE JAPAN CENTER
QE-3, Ul. Marata 69-71, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
326 25 50, www.jpcenter.spb.ru. Open 09:00 -18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
THE NETHERLANDS INSTITUTE
QE-2, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 327 08 87, www.nispb.ru. Open 10:00 -18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
MEDSI
MEDSI INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
AND HOSPITAL
Medsi International Clinic offers top quality medi-
cal services to adults and children. It is also the
only private clinic in the city that provides emer-
gency surgery and trauma care. The large multi-
functional medical center is located in the very
heart of city, on ul. Marata and is open seven days
a week, twenty-four hours a day. The clinic’s more
than 30 departments boast the most modern
medical equipment and it has its own laboratory
and pharmacy. But what really makes this clinic
stand out from the rest is that it provides medi-
cal examination services of foreign citizens for
the Federal Migration Service in St. Petersburg.
The examination and paperwork are carried out
in the shortest terms possible – you can have the
certificates in 2 working days.QE-3, Ul. Marata
6, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 336 33 33,
www.medsi.ru. Open 24hrs.
June - July 2018 65
 Maps Matches Sightseeing Restaurants Bars Shopping
Expat & Lifestyle
THE EXPAT EXPERIENCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
Please tell us a few
words about yourself,
CAMBRIDGE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
QLakhtinsky pr. 40/2, MStaraya Derevnya, tel. (+7)
812 244 50 44, www.cisrussia.com.
2018 FIFA
your family and your
career. How long have
you been living in St.
Petersburg? My name is
GERMAN SCHOOL
QB-2, Ul. Odoevskogo 19A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 441 21 59, www.deutscheschule.ru.
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL INFANT SCHOOL
World Cup Russia
Madita Stoer and I moved QF-3, Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714 June 14 - July 15
to St. Petersburg in No- 77 74, www.infantschool.ru.
vember 2016 together MANDARINA DAY
with my husband and our (PRESCHOOL CHILD DEVELOPMENT CENTER)
2 children. Before that, I lived in Kaliningrad for 2.5 years QF-3, Nevsky pr. 147A, MPl. Al. Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812
and in London for 12 years where I worked as a Director 924 24 98, www.mandarinaday.ru.
of Sales and Marketing in the hotel Industry. Originally
we are from The Netherlands.
BUSINESS ASSOCIATIONS
What makes Russia and St. Petersburg special for
you? How is it different from your homeland The AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
Netherlands? I love the energy of its people especially QC-3, Ul. Yakubovicha 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
when spring arrives and everybody is out and about en- 812 448 16 46, www.amcham.ru/spb.
joying the good things St. Petersburg has on offer. Being SPIBA - INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS ASSOCIA-
an expat family in Russia allows me to spend more time TION FOR NORTH-WESTERN RUSSIA
with my 2 young children in a city that is rich in history, QD-3, Nevsky pr. 21, off. 506, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
culture and art. It is also a kids friendly city. The play ar- 812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru.
eas most restaurants have are great and there are plenty
of things to do and see for the kids. There are numerous RELIGIOUS SERVICES
playgrounds and the parks are a delight to spend time
in. Even though winters are cold and long, as a family we BUDDHIST TEMPLE DAZAN GUDZECHONEY
make the most of it having fun in the snow and a hot QPrimorsky pr. 91, MStaraya Derevnya, tel. (+7) 812
chocolate to warm up afterwards. 430 97 40, www.dazan.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Wed.
Besides that, I enjoy being a member of the International CATHOLIC CHURCH OF ST. CATHERINE
Women’s Club of St. Petersburg as it helped me make OF ALEXANDRIA
new friends and contacts, local and international. But it QD-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571
also gives me the opportunity to give back to the com- 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
munity by raising money for charities being the Chair of EVANGELICAL LUTHERAN CHURCH
the annual IWC Winter Charity Bazaar in November. OF ST. KATARINA
QD-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel.
Can you name us three things about living in St. (+7) 812 571 20 81, www.swedenabroad.com.
Petersburg that you enjoy the most? Its lovely parks, LUTHERAN CHURCH OF ST. PETER
interesting museums and cultural events. AND ST. PAUL
What are your favorite spots in and outside the city QD-3, Nevsky pr. 22/24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312
to visit in summer? Do you already have any plans 07 98, www.petrikirche.ru. Open Tue - Fri 10:00 - 18:00.
for summer holidays? We have friends and family vis- MOSQUE
iting us this summer so we will be doing lots of sight- QD-1, Kronversky pr. 7, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
seeing. Since we live in the city centre, we enjoy going 233 98 19, www.russian-mosques.com. Open only for
for a walk and just see where the day takes us. We love services (5 times a day).
going to New Holland Island, the Summer Gardens and ST. ANNE’S LUTHERAN CHURCH
Peter and Paul Fortress. My guilty pleasure is an Italian QE-2, Kirochnaya ul. 8, MChernyshevskaya, www.st-
ice cream from La Celletta Caffe on Fontanka. When go- anna.ru. Open 09:30 - 20:00.
ing out of the city, we like going to Repino anytime of
the year for some fresh air and beach fun. Afterwards we
have a bite to eat at Nasha Dacha. If you would like your expat or business
What is great about this city and its surroundings is that group to be featured here, just drop us a
there are always new things to discover and I am looking
line at ksenia@inyourpocket.com
forward to do lots of it this spring and summer!
GUIDE TO THE 11 HOST CITIES
66 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg
 All you need to know
World Cup 2018 is here. FAN ID
All you need to know 69
To put it simply, without a Fan ID you won’t be able to at-
The world is ready. tend any matches at this summer’s FIFA World Cup. This
obviously begs the question — what is a Fan ID and how do
Matches 70

Russia is ready. I get one? Thankfully, getting a hold of the hallowed docu-
ment is a relatively easy process. Head to the official website
Moscow 72
and enter all the necessary information, along with a recent St. Petersburg 76
We are ready. passport photo and your ticket number. Your application
should be processed within 72 hours, and the ID will sub- Kaliningrad 80
sequently be mailed to your home address (or local Russian
visa centre, if that works better). Nizhny Novgorod 84
The ID will also act as your visa for the tournament, and
comes with plenty of perks as a result. The laminated Kazan 88
document allows fans to travel to the stadia for free on
match days, although it is best to check the routes be- Samara 92
forehand. Even more excitingly, it allows for free travel
between cities on the extra routes that are to be put on, Saransk 96
creating a flexibility that hasn’t been available people
visiting Russia before. Volgograd 100
You can also apply for a Fan ID in person when in the coun-
try, but this obviously renders the visa-free part obsolete. Rostov-on-Don 104
The football is the main event, but there has never been a
better opportunity to traverse the world’s largest country in Sochi 108
such a free manner.
Yekaterinburg 112

FIND EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW World Cup Facts 116

ABOUT THE 2018 FIFA WORLD CUP RUSSIA

To get all the information about 11 host-cities go to
www.inyourpocket.com/russia
or download our free app In Your Pocket City Essentials
Join our pages about Russia, Moscow and St. Petersburg on facebook:
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
16+ russia.inyourpocket.com
FAN ZONES
Even if you don’t have tickets for the matches, you can still
get involved in the humongous football extravaganza.
Each of the host cities will have its own Fan Zone, where
the matches will be screened live along with a full schedule
of entertainment in the form of live music and more. These
zones are all located in some of the most picturesque parts
of the towns, in famous squares and idyllic parks, and will
act as true cultural meeting points for football fans from all
over the entry. What’s more, entry is entirely free of charge.
ATTENDING THE MATCHES
The 11 host cities will be full of football fever during the FREE TRAVEL
tournament, but the usual rules apply when it comes to at- Free travel via additional trains traveling between host cit-
tending the matches themselves. Security promises to be ies during the World Cup is provided to spectators holding
tight at the event, and you’ve not got a hope in hell of tak- match tickets or documents granting access to the match,
ing any of the following things into the stadiums; weapons along with FAN ID. You can register and choose your route
or pyrotechnics of any kind (obviously), offensive material, at the official website: tickets.transport2018.com.
large bags or flags, bicycles, food and beverages, blades,
tools, aerosol, animals (except guide dogs) and plenty more,
although most of this is surely common sense. If you’re
turning up to a game of football with a magnetic drilling
machine or a caravan of camels, you have some serious
problems that need dealing with.
Queuing will be a big problem, so do your best to avoid the
rush by turning up to the stadium with plenty of time to
spare. Thousands of volunteers will be on hand to help out
if you have any confusion, are struggling to find a toilet or
need somewhere to leave you magnetic drilling machine.
+7 (812) 448 88 65
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 69
 Matches Matches
GROUP GROUP GROUP 1/8
14 JUNE 20 JUNE, WEDNESDAY 25 JUNE, MONDAY 30 JUNE, SATURDAY
18:00 MOSCOW, Luzhniki Stadium 15:00 MOSCOW, Luzhniki Stadium 18:00 SAMARA, Samara Arena 17:00 KAZAN, Kazan Arena 1C ჱჱ 2D
GROUP A RUSSIA ჱჱ SAUDI ARABIA GROUP B PORTUGAL ჱჱ MOROCCO GROUP A URUGUAY ჱჱ RUSSIA 21:00 SOCHI, Fisht Stadium 1A ჱჱ 2B
15 JUNE 18:00 ROSTOVONDON, Rostov Arena 17:00 VOLGOGRAD, Volgograd Arena
1 JULY, SUNDAY
17:00 YEKATERINBURG, Yekaterinburg Arena GROUP A URUGUAY ჱჱ SAUDI ARABIA GROUP A SAUDI ARABIA ჱჱ EGYPT
17:00 MOSCOW, Luzhniki Stadium 1B ჱჱ 2A
GROUP A EGYPT ჱ ჱ URUGUAY 21:00 KAZAN, Kazan Arena 21:00 SARANSK, Mordovia Arena
18:00 ST. PETERSBURG, St. Petersburg Stadium
21:00 N. Novgorod Stadium 1D ჱჱ 2C
GROUP B IR IRAN ჱჱ SPAIN GROUP B IR IRAN ჱჱ PORTUGAL
GROUP B MOROCCO ჱ ჱ IR IRAN 20:00 KALININGRAD, Kaliningrad Stadium 2 JULY, MONDAY
21:00 SOCHI, Fisht Stadium 21 JUNE, THURSDAY 18:00 SAMARA, Samara Arena 1E ჱჱ 2F
GROUP B SPAIN ჱჱ MOROCCO
GROUP B PORTUGAL ჱ ჱ SPAIN 16:00 SAMARA, Samara Arena 21:00 Rostov Arena 1G ჱჱ 2H
GROUP C DENMARK ჱჱ AUSTRALIA 26 JUNE, TUESDAY
16 JUNE 3 JULY, TUESDAY
20:00 YEKATERINBURG, Yekaterinburg Arena 17:00 MOSCOW, Luzhniki Stadium
13:00 KAZAN, Kazan Arena
17:00 St. Petersburg Stadium 1F ჱჱ 2E
GROUP C FRANCE ჱ ჱ AUSTRALIA GROUP C FRANCE ჱჱ PERU GROUP C DENMARK ჱჱ FRANCE
21:00 MOSCOW, Spartak Stadium 1H ჱჱ 2G
16:00 MOSCOW, Spartak Stadium 21:00 N. NOVGOROD, Nizhny Novgorod Stadium 17:00 SOCHI, Fisht Stadium
GROUP D ARGENTINA ჱ ჱ ICELAND GROUP C AUSTRALIA ჱჱ PERU
GROUP D ARGENTINA ჱჱ CROATIA
19:00 SARANSK, Mordovia Arena 21:00 ST. PETERSBURG, St. Petersburg Stadium
GROUP C PERU ჱ ჱ DENMARK 22 JUNE, FRIDAY 1/4
GROUP D NIGERIA ჱჱ ARGENTINA
21:00 KALININGRAD, Kaliningrad Stadium 15:00 ST. PETERSBURG, St. Petersburg Stadium
21:00 ROSTOVONDON, Rostov Arena 6 JULY, FRIDAY
GROUP D CROATIA ჱჱ NIGERIA
ჱჱ
GROUP E BRAZIL COSTA RICA
GROUP D ICELAND ჱჱ CROATIA
21:00 KAZAN, Kazan Arena W53 ჱჱ W54
17 JUNE 18:00 VOLGOGRAD, Volgograd Arena 17:00 N. Novgorod Stadium W49 ჱჱ W50
16:00 SAMARA, Samara Arena 27 JUNE, WEDNESDAY
GROUP D NIGERIA ჱჱ ICELAND 7 JULY, SATURDAY
GROUP E COSTA RICA ჱ ჱ SERBIA 19:00 YEKATERINBURG, Yekaterinburg Arena
20:00 KALININGRAD, Kaliningrad Stadium 18:00 SAMARA, Samara Arena W55 ჱჱ W56
18:00 MOSCOW, Luzhniki Stadium GROUP F MEXICO ჱჱ SWEDEN
GROUP F GERMANY ჱ ჱ MEXICO
GROUP E SERBIA ჱჱ SWITZERLAND 21:00 SOCHI, Fisht Stadium W51 ჱჱ W52
17:00 KAZAN, Kazan Arena
21:00 ROSTOVONDON, Rostov Arena 23 JUNE, SATURDAY GROUP F KOREA REPUBLIC ჱ ჱ GERMANY
GROUP E BRAZIL ჱჱ SWITZERLAND 15:00 MOSCOW, Spartak Stadium 21:00 MOSCOW, Spartak Stadium
1/2
18 JUNE GROUP G BELGIUM ჱ ჱ TUNISIA GROUP E SERBIA ჱჱ BRAZIL
15:00 N. NOVGOROD, Nizhny Novgorod Stadium 18:00 ROSTOVONDON, Rostov Arena 10 JULY, TUESDAY
21:00 N. NOVGOROD, Nizhny Novgorod Stadium
GROUP F SWEDEN ჱ ჱ KOREA REPUBLIC
GROUP F KOREA REPUBLIC ჱ ჱ MEXICO
21:00 St. Petersburg Stadium W57 ჱჱ W58
18:00 SOCHI, Fisht Stadium GROUP E SWITZERLAND ჱ ჱ COSTA RICA
21:00 SOCHI, Fisht Stadium 11 JULY, WEDNESDAY
GROUP G BELGIUM ჱ ჱ PANAMA 28 JUNE, THURSDAY
21:00 VOLGOGRAD, Volgograd Arena GROUP F GERMANY ჱჱ SWEDEN 21:00 MOSCOW, Luzhniki Stadium W59 ჱჱ W60
18:00 VOLGOGRAD, Volgograd Arena
GROUP G TUNISIA ჱ ჱ ENGLAND
24 JUNE, SUNDAY GROUP H JAPAN ჱჱ POLAND
19 JUNE, TUE 15:00 N. NOVGOROD, Nizhny Novgorod Stadium 17:00 SAMARA, Samara Arena
15:00 SARANSK, Mordovia Arena FINAL
GROUP G ENGLAND ჱ ჱ PANAMA GROUP H SENEGAL ჱჱ COLOMBIA
GROUP H COLOMBIA ჱ ჱ JAPAN 14 JULY, SATURDAY
20:00 YEKATERINBURG, Yekaterinburg Arena 21:00 SARANSK, Mordovia Arena
18:00 MOSCOW, Spartak Stadium 17:00 St. Petersburg Stadium 3RD PLACE
GROUP H JAPAN ჱ ჱ SENEGAL GROUP G PANAMA ჱ ჱ TUNISIA
GROUP H POLAND ჱ ჱ SENEGAL
21:00 ST. PETERSBURG, St. Petersburg Stadium 21:00 KAZAN, Kazan Arena 20:00 KALININGRAD, Kaliningrad Stadium 15 JULY, SUNDAY
GROUP A RUSSIA ჱ ჱ EGYPT GROUP H POLAND ჱჱ COLOMBIA GROUP G ENGLAND ჱჱ BELGIUM 18:00 MOSCOW, Luzhniki Stadium FINAL

70 Russia In Your Pocket www.inyourpocket.com/russia www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 71
 Moscow Moscow
FAN INFORMATION
LUZHNIKI STADIUM
It doesn’t get any better than this. Russia’s showpiece stadi-
um, the Luzhniki is the biggest sporting arena in the country
and one of the biggest in Europe. 81,000 can cram into the
famous stadium, which was opened in 1956 but has been
renovated frequently over the years. The 2018 FIFA World Cup
will open and close in this iconic arena. Getting there: The
stadium is a part of the larger Luzhniki sports complex, and is
best approached via the red metro line 1. The stations Sport-
ivnaya and Vorobyovy Gory are both within walking distance
of the arena. Another option is the Luzhniki station itself, on
the Moscow Central Circle (14) line.QLuzhniki 24, MSport-
Moscow City ivnaya, www.eng.luzhniki.ru.

It’s hard to believe that Moscow (a city of 17 million
people!) was nothing but a few small houses when it
was first mentioned and wasn’t always the capital of
Russia! The first mention in the Historical Chronicles is
made about the city of Moscow, which was founded by
Russian prince Yury Dolgoruky. After some successful
negotiations finished, Yury Dolgoruky decided to make
a huge feast to celebrate. On their way to Vladimir his
troops stopped on Moskva River, where there were only
a few houses back then, and threw a huge party on the
shore of Moskva River where the Kremlin is nowadays.
By 1328, Moscow became the capital city of the Great
Moscow Principality and of all Russian Lands. In 1713,
Peter the Great moved the capital from Moscow to St.
Petersburg; 200 years later, in 1918, the Soviets moved
the capital back to Moscow.
Today, the fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, his-
torical and financial capital and a magnet for adven-
MEGAPOLIS TRAIN
The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow from
St. Petersburgg and for St. Petersburg
g to Moscow everyy
night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience.
After being shown to your cabin you will find your
beds have already been made up with real duvets
rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are
spotless. You may buy breakfast and coffee in the
morning and if at any moment during the trip you
experience some problems you can call the train
attendant!QFor reservations call 8-800-777-20-19
or book online at www.poezdmegapolis.ru.
72 Russia In Your Pocket
turous foreign business travellers, ambitious Russians
from across the country, bright-eyed students from
around the world and millions of migrant workers from
the far flung corners of the former USSR. In all senses,
Moscow is a melting-pot and its outstanding dining
scene and vibrant nightlife reflects its cosmopolitan
population.
A city of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness
to Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future. From
the medieval Kremlin and the magical golden domes of
Moscow’s beautiful churches, to its tranquil parks, monu-
mental Soviet architecture and modern skyscrapers, the
city’s skyline tells a thousand stories. High culture cour-
tesy of the Moscow Philharmonic and the Bolshoi Theatre,
jaw-dropping art exhibitions and an energetic live music
scene continue to prove that Moscow is really on the cut-
ting edge. Whether you are looking for medieval history,
communist nostalgia or high-rolling glamor, Moscow has
something for everyone.
ARRIVAL
BY PLANE
Almost every international airline flies to Moscow. Once at
one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the Aeroexpress
train which brings you right to the centre. Aeroexpress
trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sherem-
etyevo airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo airport,
and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo airport.
Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It
takes 35-45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre
of Moscow. Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroex-
press ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail
terminals. You can buy an electronic ticket from the official
website www.aeroexpress.ru/en where you can also view
train timetables. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700
33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).
BY TRAIN
Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day
from every Russian city. If you travel from St. Petersburg
you also can take advantage of the super fast Sapsan train,
which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you
there in just under four hours.
www.inyourpocket.com/moscow
SPARTAK STADIUM
The new home of Spartak Moscow, the Otkrytie Arena was
opened in 2014 and can hold up to 45,360 screaming fans.
A monument to the Starostin brothers, the four siblings
who founded Spartak, is found inside the stadium, with a
huge statue of Spartacus himself waiting outside. Getting
there: It doesn’t take a savant to work out that the stadium is
accessed via the Spartak station on purple metro line 7. The
station was opened in conjunction with the stadium. After
matches you can use special free shuttle buses to Aeroport
metro station and Sheremetyevo airport.QVolokolamskoe
shosse 69, MSpartak, www.otkritiearena.ru/en.
FAN ZONE
Once known as the Lenin Hills, Vorobyovy Gory (Sparrow
Hills) will be the epicentre of World Cup activity in the
capital this summer. Some 25,000 fans will be able to cram
into the Fan Zone, situated on a hill that provides spectac-
ular views down to the Luzhniki and the city itself. Those
views are among the best in the city, so if the football is
particularly mundane there will be plenty to occupy one-
self with. A metro station of the same name means getting
to the site couldn’t be easier.
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket
UNOFFICIAL FAN ZONE - USACHEVSKY MARKET
The history of Usachevsky Market (ul. Usacheva 26, MS-
portivnaya) dates all the way back to 1932, when it com-
prised a few street market aisles. In 2016 this market got
a revamp and today it’s a hotspot for the hipster foodies
of Khamovniki district (and further afield!) who come here
to try out little eateries serving Georgian, Uzbek, Italian, Is-
raeli and you-name-it cuisines, as well as shops represent-
ing small-scale Russian food producers, such as Kostroma
Cheese.
Historically, this market’s proximity to Luzhniki Stadium
meant that during sporting events Usachevsky market
became the feeding ground for hungry fans. This year’s
FIFA World Cup will see history repeat itself: between June
14 and July 15, Usachevsky will become the unofficial Fan
Zone of the tournament, where fans can enjoy amazing
food essentially right around the corner from Moscow’s
main football action. www.usachevsky.ru
SPORT SHOPS
BOSCO SPORT
QGUM, Red Square 3, MPl. Revolutsii, tel. (+7)
495 620 34 49, www.boscosport.ru. Open 10:00 -
22:00.
WORLD CUP 2018 OFFICIAL SHOP
QTeatralny proezd 5/1, Detsky Mir, MLubyanka, tel.
(+7) 495 777 80 77, www.cdm-moscow.ru/shops/fifa.
Open 10:00 - 22:00.
2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 73
 Moscow
TOP 5 SIGHTS
THE KREMLIN
MAlexandrovsky Sad. www.kreml.ru. Cathedral
Square open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Thu. Kremlin
Armoury open 10:00 - 18:00. Sessions start at
10:00, 12:00, 14:30 and 16:30. www.kreml.ru.
TRETYAKOV GALLERY
QC-4, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru/
en/. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 250 - 500Rbl. Complex
ticket to Tretyakov Gallery on Lavrushinsky per. and
Tretyakov Gallery on Krymsky Val 300 - 800Rbl.
CATHEDRAL OF CHRIST THE SAVIOUR
QB-4, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 637 12 76, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Mon
13:00 - 17:00. Admission free.
THE PUSHKIN STATE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS
QC-3, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 697 95 78, www.arts-museum.ru. Open 11:00 -
20:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 150
- 300Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibi-
IN YOUR POCKET’S PICKS
COYOTE UGLY
Ugly Coyote fits 600 people and is famous for its playful
bar staff, live music and night time dancing. By the way,
you’ll find plenty of space for dancing here: there is a huge
bar stand made specifically for dancing, it’s the pride and
joy of Ugly Coyote. The DJs spring pop and rock music, to
which you can groove and dance effortlessly. The female
coyotes get up on the baк and ask for your support in the
form of applause and then demonstrate their dancing
skills. You can even join them! Coyote Ugly is the perfect
place for partying with old friends or making new ones.
Also at ul. Arbat 1.QStoleshnikov per. 8, MTverskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 995 71 50, www.coyoteugly.ru. Open 20:00
- 06:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 06:00. PAW
EST KHINKALI, PIT VINO
Having firmly established themselves in the khachapuri
and Middle Eastern street food market, the team behind
Khachapuria and Laffa Laffa have made a successful
foray into the world of khinkali (Georgian dumplings).
Because each dumpling is made from scratch by one
of the Georgian ladies in the kitchen, you’ll be waiting
about 20 (or more) minutes for your order to be ready.
But worry not – there’s plenty of different Georgian
starters, appetizers and wines to help get you through
the wait.QMalaya Bronnaya ul. 4 bldg. 1, MPushkin-
skaya, tel. (+7) 495 975 55 35, www.eatkhinkali.com.
Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. P N V S
KOLBASNY TSEKH (SAUSAGE WORKSHOP)
Kolbasny Tsekh (Sausage Workshop) restaurant became
Moscow
WHERE TO WATCH GLAVPIVTREST
QMyasnitskaya ul. 46/2 bldg. 1, MKrasnie Vorota, tel.
FOOTBALL (+7) 495 625 97 97, www.pivtrest.com. Open 10:00 -
BAVARIUS 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAEW
QTverskaya ul. 30/2 bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) KAMCHATKA
495 699 42 11, www.bavarius.club. Open 12:00 - 24:00. QUl. Kuznetsky Most 7, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7)
€€€. PASW 495 624 88 25, en.novikovgroup.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00,
BRITISH QUEEN Thu 12:00 - 03:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAE
QUl. Bol. Dmitrovka 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 SW
226 23 23, www.britishqueen.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:45, Fri KATIE O’ SHEA’S
10:00 - 06:00, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:45. €€. QPr. Mira 26 bldg. 5, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 792
PAEW 51 88, www.katieosheas.ru. Open 09:00 until the last
BRUXELLES guest, Sat, Sun 10:00 until the last guest. €€. PA
QUl. Malaya Dmitrovka 18a bldg. 3, MMayakovskaya, ESW
tel. (+7) 495 410 90 18, www.italy-group.ru. Open 12:00 KOZLOVICA
- 02:00. €€€. PAS QPyatnitskaya ul. 29, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7)
CHELSEA GASTRO PUB 495 258 28 23, www.kozlovica.ru/en/. Open 12:00 -
QMal. Gnezdnikovsky per. 12/27, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAVSW
495 629 66 88, www.chelsea-pub.ru/en/. Open 24hrs. PILSNER MAYAKOVSKAYA
€€. PAW Q1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 1, MMayakovskaya,
CROSS KEYS PUB tel. (+7) 499 251 20 23, www.pilsner.ru/en/. Open
QUl. Mal. Dmitrovka 3, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€€. P A S
636 29 55, www.crosskeyspub.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, W
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAW STAG’S HEAD PUB
FOOTBALL REPUBLIC QTverskaya ul. 7 (entrance from Gazetny per.), MOk-
QTverskaya ul. 9a, bldg. 6, MOkhotny ryad, hotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 636 27 56, www.stagshead.ru.
tel. (+7) 909 977 21 18, www.facebook.com/ Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PA
FootballRepublicMoscow. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. PS SW
GAMBRINUS THE WHITE HART PUB
Q1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 16/23, MMayakovska- QNeglinnaya ul. 10, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495
ya, tel. (+7) 495 250 16 66, www.gambrinusbar.ru. Open 636 28 55, www.whitehart.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri,
11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PAW Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PAW
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“Moscow In Your Pocket” for free!QB-1, Triumfal- LUZHKOV YA

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www.inyourpocket.com/moscow/ 5 SKY P
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hotels-in-moscow
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74 Russia In Your Pocket www.inyourpocket.com/moscow www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 75
 St. Petersburg
Palace bridge
FAN INFORMATION
SAINT PETERSBURG STADIUM
Home to St. Petersburg’s Zenit and one of the larger
stadiums in the country although the 67,000 capacity
is nowhere near the 110,000 the Kirov Stadium that for-
merly stood here used to hold. The setting overlook-
ing the water is tremendous and this is one of the most
modern and eye-catching of the stadiums built for the
2018 World Cup. Getting there: To get to the stadium
you need to jump on the Frunzensko-Primorskaya line
of the metro, or ‘the purple one’ as most visitors will
likely call it. Krestovsky Ostrov is the station you are
looking for. It is a 20 minute walk from the metro to the
arena. On match days you can use special free shuttle
buses. The buses will stop at different locations at the
Krestovsky Ostrov (Airport - Stadium, Pl. Vosstaniya —
Stadium, Petrogradskaya metro - Stadium, Chkalovs-
kaya - Stadium, Vyborgskaya - Stadium routes). QKre-
stovsky Island, www.piterarena.com/en.
FAN ZONE
There are no shortage of potential Fan Zone spots in
St. Petersburg, and the organisers decided to plump
for the 15,000 capacity Konyushennaya Square in the
heart of the city. The majority of the city’s main sites
can be found in the vicinity, including The Hermitage
Museum and Palace Square. The Imperial Stables are
also here, on the famous site that hosted the funeral of
the great Alexander Pushkin. There are a host of excel-
lent wine bars and restaurants around, to fill time in
between the games.
76 Russia In Your Pocket
St. Petersburg
IN YOUR POCKET’S PICKS GASTROBAR KOMPANIYA
JEROME A cozy gastronomic bar in Petrogradsky district with a
Freshness is the keyword for their menu. Antonio Fresa, menu full of gastronomically interesting and non-trivial
the incredible talented, aspiring chef from Tuscany, while dishes that don’t break the bank. They also carefully and
paying tribute to his Italian roots, creates his own twist on thoughtfully picked out amazing wines and craft beer.
favourite dishes from all over the world.QBol. Morskaya There is a special offer during the World Cup - home
ul. 25, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 918 69 20, www. burger and two pints of craft beer for 999 rubles. Above
probka.org. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW the bar there’s a special balcony where the DJs ascend
MEZZANINE CAFÉ on Fridays and Saturdays to give your evening that ex-
Belmond Grand Hotel Europe is ready for the 2018 FIFA tra kick.QC-1, Ordinarnaya ul. 19, MPetrogradskaya,
World Cup! Mezzanine Café  was redesigned as a sort of tel. (+7) 812 997 12 34, www.kompaniyaspb.ru. Open
football stadium. Feel the grass typical of a football pitch 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PAWE
under your feet as you watch all the matches as they hap-
pen live on the 3x2.5 meter HD panels. Now that’s what GASTROBAR KOMPANIYA MOSKOVSKY
we call full football immersion! The cafe’s menu has also Two-storied gastrobar
been redesigned to reflect the “comfort food” nature of with panoramic windows,
Today, Peter the Great’s “window to the west” is without sporting events: hamburgers, pretzels, hot dogs and the open kitchen, European
a doubt one of the most stunningly beautiful cities in the hotel’s signature crab burger.QMikhailovskaya ul. 1, tel. and Asian cuisine and
world and living proof that there are some whole countries (+7) 812 329 66 40, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Open drinks from all around
the world. It is a perfect
that probably can’t boast as many great sights as one city. 08:00 - 22:00. €€€€. PAWL
place  to hang out with
From the priceless treasures of the world-famous Hermit- PROBKA
your friends. The menu
age to the palaces and art of the Russian Museum there’s Probka is known for its large, open kitchen, designed so
includes modern European dishes and the best examples
a heck of a lot of culture to be enjoyed. Then there’s the that diners can see how their food is being prepared from
of Pan-Asian cuisine: spicy soups, dim-sums and spring
historical angle – Catherine the Great, Peter the Great and any location in the restaurant. The restaurant offers a tra-
rolls. The drinks list offers an extensive range of wine
the last Russian Tsars all left their mark on this great city, as ditional Italian menu and a carefully chosen wine list with
and craft beer.QMoskovsky pr. 206, MMoskovskaya,
did Russia’s great writers such as Dostoevsky and Pushkin. over 100 wines from around the world. QPr. Dobroly-
tel. (+7) 921 938 07 08, www.kompaniyaspb.ru. Open
If you are here not only for the football but also for a spot ubova 6, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 918 69 10, www.
12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAWSVE
of fun and culture, then fun and culture you most certainly probka.org. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTASW
will have! St. Petersburg’s nightlife scene is legendary and
the locals are famous for being much more relaxed than in
the Russian capital Moscow. Every season has its own spe-
cial celebrations and fine dining, world-class ballet and op-
era and cafe culture are all part of the Petersburg way of life.
ARRIVAL
BY PLANE
Almost every international airline flies to St. Petersburg. The in-
ternational terminal Pulkovo is located in the south of the city
(metro Moskovskaya), 23 km away from the Palace Square. The
airport offers the usual shops, restaurants and cafes within the
terminal building and hotels nearby. Keep your eyes open for
ATM machines and money exchanges (obmen valyuty) if you
urgently need some roubles. www.pulkovoairport.ru
To get into the city centre you can take Bus №39 or mini-bus
№39 to Moskovskaya metro station and then take the metro
into town. Once you are in the metro system you can get to
most parts of town quickly. Keep you eyes open for maps
of the metro system if you need to find a particular station.
If you choose to take a taxi, the airport’s official taxi service
- Taxi Pulkovo - provides a reliable and affordable transfer
service to/from any part of the city. www.taxipulkovo.com
BY TRANE
Arriving in St. Petersburg by train is convenient. All the train
stations are located next to metro stations, so you simply
need to step off the train and enter into the bowels of St.
Petersburg’s underground system and find your way to the
metro station nearest your destination. www.rzd.ru
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 77
 St. Petersburg St. Petersburg
RYBA MANNEKEN PIS NEVSKY
TOP 5 SIGHTS This place is a sort of modern and stylish grand cafe res- QNevsky pr. 55, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 904 26 SOCIAL CLUB
taurant in the top of a business centre with a sublime view 55, www.reca.rest. Open 10:00 - 01:00. Fri, Sat 10:00 -
CHURCH OF THE SAVIOUR ON THE SPILT of the city (the Petrograd Side). The food is mostly Italian 03:00. €€. PASW The main concept of Social
BLOOD and Japanese. Popular among both wealthy and middle STARGOROD Club is to give St.  Peters-
QNab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) class Russians, the prices are pretty reasonable and the QKazanskaya ul. 7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 319 00 30, burgers a space where
812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 10:30 - staff are efficient and friendly.QUl. Akademika Pavlova 5, www.stargorod.net. Open 24hrs. €. PAESW they can eat, drink, social-
22:30, closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 918 69 69, www.probka. ize and enjoy an extremely
HERMITAGE org. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTALSW elaborate cultural program
QDvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortso- RYBA NA DACHE CLUBS consisting of live music,
vaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 This countryside restaurant is the ideal dacha: a dining hall with COYOTE UGLY theatrical performances,
90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 its own fireplace, a canteen, library and children’s room and Popular with sports teams, this club is most famous for danc- poetry readings, children’s master-classes as well as late
- 18:00, Wed and Fri 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. wide balconies and a spacious terrace. Homemade pasta, thin ing on bartops; in the main dance area, there are bartops night DJ parties. It unites all the things that the city’s
Admission 700Rbl. curst pizza, plov, lagman, eggplant with parmesan, shashlik and solely for the purpose of dancing on. Although in practice trendy intellectuals love in one space (or rather two
PETER AND PAUL FORTRESS chebureki – the menu may seem slightly populist but even dur- only women take this opportunity, there don’t seem to be any spacious halls). The owners position the cuisine here as
QMGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www. ing the busiest hours you’re guaranteed top quality food and rules stopping men from doing so should they desire. Not the “young kitchen”, i.e. the menu combines all the modern
spbmuseum.ru. The island territory is open 06:00 - speedy service.QSestroretsk, 41st km Primorskoe shosse, most classy but the party goes on late into the night, there’s favorites.QUl. Rubinshteina 40/11, MDostoevskaya,
22:00. The fortress open 09:30 - 20:00. All-inclusive tel. (+7) 812 918 69 70, www.probka.org/restaurants/spb/ lots of space to dance, and lots of shots to drink.QLiteiny tel. (+7) 812 925 43 42, www.socialclub.spb.ru. Open
ticket 600Rbl, valid for two days. ryba_na_dache. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PASW pr. 57b, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 416 44 50, www. 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PEAW
ST. ISAAC’S CATHEDRAL coyoteugly.ru. Open 20:00 - 06:00. €€. PA
QIsaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) ZAZHIGALKA
812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Colonnade open WHERE TO WATCH FOOTBALL Uncensored Relaxation! Descending to the basement, we SPORT SHOPS
10:30 - 04:30. Closed Wed. Admission 150-400Rbl. BRUGGE find ourselves in a dark, intimate room. The black walls, and
RUSSIAN MUSEUM QNab. Makarova 22, MSportivnaya-2, tel. (+7) 812 the red decorations and lighting complete the scene. In the BOSCO SPORT
QInzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 23 90, www.italy-group.ru/restaurants/brugge/. centre of the room there is of course a pole, where enchant- QC-1, Bolshoy pr. 15, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAW ing girls show off their skills in exotic dance. There are also 405 80 60, www.boscosport.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. BRUXELLES VIP rooms and a private cabin. 18+QShcherbakov per. ZENIT ARENA
Admission 150-450Rbl. QUl. Vosstaniya 20, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 17a, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 17 22, www.spb. QD-3, Nevsky pr. 20, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
944 03 36, www.italy-group.ru/restaurants/bruxelles/. russtriptease.com. Open 22:00 - 06:00. PAL 244 00 40, www.shop.fc-zenit.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PASW
www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg-en/ DICKENS
hotels-in-st-petersburg QNab. reky Fontanky 108, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7)
812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. Open 13:00 - 23:45,
KR M H
Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. €€. PASW
AR

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QYuzhnaya doroga 15, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7)

K RO N
77

TROITSKY
MOST
1 812 320 79 78, www.k-f.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
NS
PETER AND PAUL
FORTRESS 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALESW
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78 Russia In Your Pocket www.inyourpocket.com/st-petersburg www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 79
 Kaliningrad
Fishing Village
Once the seat of the Teutonic knights, what was once the
grand Prussian city of Königsberg now offers a surreal,
unique experience to the more intrepid traveller. Having
been obliterated during the Second World War, Königs-
berg became Kaliningrad in 1946 and part of the Soviet
Union. As home to the Baltic Fleet, the Oblast was closed
to outsiders for most of the next half a century. When the
Baltic States declared independence in the early 1990s,
Kaliningrad found itself cut off from the rest of Russia and
then with the accession of neighbours Poland and Lithu-
ania to the European Union in 2004, Kaliningrad became
that little part of Russia surrounded by the EU.
Kaliningrad has seen major investment in recent years,
not least to modernise the city’s infrastructure ahead of
it hosting matches in the 2018 FIFA World Cup Finals. The
city is definitely on the up and can already boast a surpris-
ing number of attractive parks and gardens, some surviv-
ing remnants of the city’s German heritage and an inter-
esting selection of war time monuments and museums.
And that’s not all. The Oblast’s location attracts Russians
from all over the vast nation both to holiday and to live.
ARRIVAL
BY PLANE
The city got its first airport when Konigsberg’s Devau Air-
port was opened in 1921. Today the main airport is located
at Khrabrovo, 21km to the north-east of the city.  Railway Station and forms what is generally considered
KHRABROVO AIRPORT
Kaliningrad Khrabrovo airport is located 21km north-east
of the city and can be reached by car in about 30 min-
utes. The name of the airport comes from the name of the
nearby village and the terminal building has been recently
completely rebuilt.
The simplest way to get to the centre of Kaliningrad (cen-
tre here being Victory Square; the nearby Cathedral of
Christ the Saviour and the Clover Shopping Centre with
the adjacent Radisson Blu hotel) is to take a taxi. At the exit
to the terminal you will see booths offering taxis services.
You can trust them to call you a taxi. A journey to the cen-
tre should cost you approximately 600Rbl.
80 Russia In Your Pocket
Alternatively you can take the bus. Find the bus stop out-
side of the terminal building and take either route 144 or
244-Э which will get you to Victory Square in about 45
minutes.QKhrabrovo, tel. (+7) 4012 61 04 15, www.kgd.
aero.
BY TRAIN
Kaliningrad South Railway Station is used by both local
and long-distance trains today although for many years it
was exclusively for long-distance trains. Today from six pas-
senger platforms trains depart to Moscow, St. Petersburg,
Chelyabinsk, Adler and some other cities. The easiest way
to reach the centre is by taxi but we recommend you agree
a price beforehand.
SOUTH RAILWAY STATION
Kaliningrad South Railway Station is used by both local
and long-distance trains today although for many years
it was exclusively for long-distance trains. Today from six
passenger platforms trains depart to Moscow, St. Peters-
burg, Chelyabinsk, Adler and some other cities. The easiest
way to reach the centre is by taxi but we recommend you
agree a price beforehand.QF-14, Zheleznodorozhnaya
ul. 13-23, tel. (+7) 4012 60 08 88, www.kaliningrad-
yuznyiy.dzvr.ru.
BY BUS
The Central Bus Station is found adjacent to the Southern
the city’s main transport terminus (some international bus
routes also arrive here).
SIGHTSEEING
1 CHURCH OF CHRIST THE SAVIOUR
In the early 1990s, with the city’s Russian Orthodox popu-
lation lacking a designated cathedral and utilising the orig-
inally Lutheran/Calvinist Church of the Rood as something
of a stand-in, plans were put in place by Metropolitan Kirill
(a senior member of the Russian Orthodox church) to build
the striking, centrally-located Christ the Saviour Cathedral
not far from Victory Square.
www.inyourpocket.com/kaliningrad
Kaliningrad
Construction began in 1995
and President Boris Yeltsin FAN INFORMATION
paid a personal visit to the
site a year later, delivering KALININGRAD STADIUM
a capsule of earth from the Built especially for the World Cup, the Kaliningrad
cathedral of the same name stadium can be found on the banks of the Pregel
in Moscow. It was eventu- river a 20-30 minute walk from the Fanzone and Kant
ally completed and its up- Island. During the tournament it will host 35,000 fans
per church consecrated by following which capacity will be reduced to 25,000 at
Patriarch Alexy II on 10th September 2006, exactly 20 years which point it will become the home stadium of local
after the opening of Kaliningrad’s first Russian Orthodox team FC Baltika Kaliningrad as well as Kaliningrad’s
church.QPl. Pobedy. Open 08:00 - 21:00. newest and most modern concert venue. Built at a
cost of nearly 18 billion rubles (approx. €240 million),
2 ALTES HAUS MUSEUM the area previously had laid empty. Early challenges
An interesting ‘museum’ with the soft sandy soil were overcome by bringing
in that it is set in an apart- in huge trucks of sand to stabilize the site and the
ment and is designed to construction was completed a little behind sched-
give you a look into how ule. Following the tournament the area will be de-
a typical apartment in this veloped to become a centre for community sports
area would have looked in and activity.
pre-war Koenigsberg. Cre- Getting there: The best way to reach the stadium
ated and managed by a is on foot and the approach roads will be closed to
group of friends, the apart- traffic on matchdays. There will be special shuttle
ment shows how merchant and grocery store owner, Gus- buses running from both North and South Railway
tav Grossman and his family would have lived 100 years stations as well.
ago by recreating the apartment, built in 1912  and then  QSolnechny bul. 25.
furnishing it with period furniture and design. The mu-
seum also tells the story of the suburbs of Amalienau and
Khufen. QKrasnaya ul. 11, tel. (+7) 4012 33 50 60, www.
alteshaus.ru. Open for excursions at 11:00, 13:00 and
15:00. Closed Sun. Open by prior arrangement at other
times. Admission 350Rbl.
3 KANT MUSEUM
Spread over three floors
in the upper part of Ka-
liningrad Cathedral the
Kant Museum is generally FAN ZONE
dedicated to the life and The official Kaliningrad FIFA Russian World Cup 2018
times of 18th-century Ger- Fanzone can be found in the shadow of the city’s land-
man philosopher. The first mark House of the Soviets. The area around the build-
of these floors covers the ing has been cleared and paved and will play host to
history of Kant Island (or up to 15,000 people each day throughout the tourna-
Kneiphof), the second is home to the famous Wallenrodt ment. All matches will be screened on large screens
Library and the final one focuses on the man himself with while the 7 days during the tournament when there
various bust sculptures and, rather gruesomely, his death are no matches will see concerts and other special en-
mask.Qo. Kanta, tel. (+7) 4012 63 17 05, www.sobor- tertainment put on to keep everyone in a celebratory
kaliningrad.ru/content/35. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admis- mood. 
sion 100 - 250Rbl. The fanzone will be visited by famous guests from
the football world and they’ll be plenty of food and
4 THE BLINDAGE MUSEUM drink as well as entertainment an shops set up around
The bunker is home to the Blindage Museum (also referred the site (we hope they have the live size fussball table
to as the Bunker Museum) and although the structure created on a beach seen at previous tournaments).
itself is of little interest, consisting of one relatively short QLeninsky pr. 2.
corridor with 15 tiny cells, it provides some decent insight
into the battle for Konigsberg by means of photos, models
and room mock-ups.QUniversitetskaya ul. 2а, tel. (+7) For hotels in Kaliningrad go to
4012 53 65 93, www.westrussia.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00. www.inyourpocket.com/kaliningrad/hotels
Admission 100 - 150Rbl.
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 81
 Kaliningrad
5 MUSEUM OF HISTORY AND ART
Originally serving as the Stadthalle concert hall, the building
was badly damaged during air-raids in 1944 and stood in
ruin until being rebuilt in 1991. Inside, the place is in the midst
of another major long-term renovation project and it shows
– two floors of generally interesting exhibits, covering every-
thing from stuffed Russian fauna to military uniforms and an
in-depth dissection of the Battle of Konigsberg.QKliniches-
kaya ul. 21, tel. (+7) 4012 99 49 00, www.westrussia.org.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 100 - 150Rbl.
6 WORLD OCEAN MUSEUM
One of the city’s major tourist attractions and worth a visit.
The museum actually consists of a number of different
exhibits for which you can either buy individual tickets or
a recommended single ticket which covers them all. The
main building of the World Ocean Museum is home to 14
marine and freshwater tanks containing over 130 species
including piranha, rays, sharks and shellfish.QNab. Petra
Velikogo 1, tel. (+7) 4012 34 02 44, www.world-ocean.
ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Admission 150 -
300Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl.
RESTAURANTS
BRIKAS
Traditional Lithuanian cuisine has some serious explaining to
do if it claims pizza and pasta as its own but Brikas has far too
much going for it to get picky. The copious but very reason-
ably-priced menu is certainly solid in terms of quality and the
location is second to none, being inside the Europa Shopping
Centre directly opposite the Mother Russia monument.QF-9,
Teatralnaya ul. 30, tel. (+7) 4012 61 63 12, www.brikas.ru.
Mon, Sun 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. €. TSW
CAFE MOLON
A restaurant, despite the name offering very good Italian
cuisine over two floors with some very tasty dishes, an
opulent interior design and with an excellent staff quality
service who get the details right. Surprisingly, the prices are
only slightly higher than you would expect to find in the rest
of the city.QUl. Kirova 17, tel. (+7) 4012 37 71 70, www.
facebook.com/moloncafe. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 -
24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. PAE
KHMEL
So-called ‘beer restaurants’ are no rare thing in Kaliningrad
but we defy anyone to find a beer-ier one than industrial,
brewery-styled Hops and the Siberian cuisine they special-
ise in is just what’s needed to stave off hunger, the cold
and... well, just anything really!QF-9, pl. Pobedy 10, tel.
(+7) 4012 59 33 77, www.britannicaproject.ru. Open
12:00 - 02:00. SW
82 Russia In Your Pocket
LA STORIA
An Italian restaurant offering very good food and a rich se-
lection of Italian wines. This is a great example of the type
of venue that has become popular of late in Kaliningrad
– a smart modern look combined with a relaxed friendly
atmosphere and which is extremely popular with young
families Live music most evenings is an added attraction.
QPr. Mira 31, tel. (+7) 4012 50 73 56, www.facebook.
com/lastoriakld. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
02:00. €€. PA
PATISSON MARKT
The menu, as with many Kaliningrad restaurants, is a mix
of dishes from different cuisines with both Russian dump-
lings and a not-oft found German-French Flammkuchen
pie/Tarte Tarte flambée. The abundance of greenery and
wood are very calming and this a good breakfast option as
well.QPr. Mira 24, tel. (+7) 962 266 62 96. Open 09:00 -
23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PWA
PARMIGANO
As everyone knows, pizza always tastes better on a couch
and leafy, tiled trattoria Parmigano has some rather elegant
couches to choose from. In fact, it’s a very, very pleasant
place indeed with a tremendous menu of more-or-less Ital-
ian cuisine going far beyond just pizza but hey, what can
we say, it was the pizza that won us over. QD-7, Ul. Karla
Marksa 18, tel. (+7) 4012 31 31 37, www.pubkaliningrad.
ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €. TSW
STEINDAMM 99
A wonderful discovery set in a set of rundown pre-war
buildings not far from the World Ocean Museum.The food
is a mix of cuisines with borsch, draniki (dumplings) and
bruschetta on the menu and they serve some great Grim-
bergen beer too. The prices are high for Kaliningrad but the
atmosphere and surroundings along with the food make
this a thoroughly recommended spot.QZhitomirskaya
ul. 22-24, tel. (+7) 4012 38 84 70, www.facebook.com/
steindamm99. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.
ZOTLER BEER RESTAURANT
Buzzing whenever we pass through and seemingly more
at ease catering for non-Russian-speakers than most plac-
es, we’re struggling to think of a reason NOT to go and the
strategic high-up positioning of TVs, ideal for footy and
other sporting events, really seals the deal. Yep, it’s going
to have to be: Bier bitte!QF-9, Leninsky pr. 3, tel. (+7)
4012 91 91 81, www.zoetler.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €. PA
RESTO-PRESTO
Found in the building which seats the Kaliningrad city
government, the popular Serbian chef keeps the steady
flow of customers happy with a mix of Italian and Euro-
pean dishes (including Roman-styl pizza and German
sausages) prepared from the open kitchen. Popular with a
young professional crowd and city deputies from the offic-
es above, once the work day is over, you’ll find it taken over
by young people out to enjoy themselves as Resto Presto
morphs into a bar with resident DJ.QPl. Pobedy 1, tel.
(+7) 4012 38 84 78, www.facebook.com/restopresto39.
Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00,
Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PSAL
www.inyourpocket.com/kaliningrad
BARS & PUBS
BYKOV BAR
A really popular bar/eatery with a clinical, modern interior
offering a large selection of drinks including imported
draft beers. They have regular music in the evenings which
runs until late but visit to try the food.QUl. Professora Ba-
ranova 40, tel. (+7) 4012 37 44 70, www.facebook.com/
BykovBAR. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat
15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. P
LIBEERTE
Polished hardwood tables overlooked by various Celtic curi-
osities and comfortable couch seating leading down to a mock
open fire still manage to capture the spirit admirably and, while
the Guinness isn’t quite up to scratch, the food and drink offer-
ing is otherwise strong. QF-9, Leninskiy pr. 11, tel. (+7) 4012
53 62 41. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. WPA
LONDON
There are lots of screens for sport and a really good menu of
food to go with whatever you choose from the well-stocked
bar which includes a range of imported beers. It’s large by
local standards with plenty of seating and staff and also
plays host to a live music venue downstairs. QD-8, Pr. Mira
33/35, tel. (+7) 4012 31 00 31, www.jazzpub.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. EWAP
YELTSIN PUB
A very popular meeting place for students and young peo-
ple which has a real creative vibe about it. They’re attracted
here by the wide range of craft beers on offer from a selec-
tion of small Russian breweries.QGarazhnaya ul. 2, tel. (+7)
4012 76 64 20, www.yeltsin.pub. Open 16:20 - 24:00, Fri
16:20 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €. P
2
1
6 3
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket
Kaliningrad
SHOPPING
Kaliningrad has a number of
large shopping malls where
you will find some interna-
tional brands alongside well-
known Russian names. The
major shopping areas are
actually in the centre of the
city with the Europa and Clo-
ver malls both close to Victory Square. If you’re looking for
souvenirs, then keep an eye out for marzipan, a traditional,
locally-produced sweet that can be traced back to the
18th century – Konigsberg was famous for its marzipan.
The number one souvenir though is amber and you will
find it on offer all over the city both in high-class jewel-
lers and in a collection of modern stalls next to the Amber
Museum. Kaliningrad has the world’s largest reserves of
amber, so if you don’t feel like paying for it, take a ride out
to the Baltic coast and comb the beach yourself.
TOURIST INFO CENTRE
Located in the Drama Theatre close to the centre, the
tourist information centre is staffed by a professional,
friendly, English-speaking Russian lady who is happy
to provide you with maps and leaflets as well as advice
and assistance. The centre will also be happy to help
you arrange transport, accommodation and guided
tours of the city and the region.QE-9, Pr. Mira 4, tel.
(+7) 4012 55 52 00, www.visit-kaliningrad.ru/en. U
17,5 km
4 5
2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 83
 Nizhny Novgorod
St. Elijah’s Church and the Kremlin
Mother Russia has worn many guises over the years, from
flashy New Russians via Soviet propaganda and Tsarist
opulence and poverty, but perhaps beneath all this is
an aspect of Russia’s character that has long charmed its
visitors: an impulse to make the everyday beautiful. This
tradition is still going strong, as testified by Russia’s notori-
ously sharply dressed women and a cultural love for glit-
ter and glamor; but its roots go much further back. Think
of typically Russian matryoshka dolls, of ornate lacquer
crockery and brightly painted boxes, and in part, you’re
thinking about Nizhny Novgorod.
The region is home to a rich craft tradition that produces
many of the items synonymous with Russia. Its intricately
carved wooden houses and classical streets echo this;
but as ever in Russia, times are a-changing, buildings are
being renovated and new establishments are opening.
Known locally as Nizhny, the city’s proximity to Moscow
makes it an ideal spot for Muscovites and tourists to get
a glimpse of the “real” Russia, the one of colorful wooden
houses, grey Volga skies and ancient Slavic fairy tales.
Nizhny smells of rivers because two big rivers – the Volga
and the Oka – become one here. And if you stand at the
point where the rivers meet, you’ll get swept up in a hu-
mid wind. In spring this wind smells of lilacs, in summer
it smells of linden. The Kremlin complex has become the
symbol of the city – it’s an example of Russian defensive
architecture, built in the 16th century to protect residents,
and thanks to it the city has been saved from numerous
invasions. Today, it’s like a city within a city.
ARRIVAL AND TRANSPORT
NIZHNY NOVGOROD RAILWAY STATION
Trains from Moscow to Nizhny Novgorod typically take
between four and eight hours and usually leave from
Kursky Vokzal in Moscow. The Sapsan train that connects
Moscow and St. Petersburg at high speed also extends to
Nizhny Novgorod, stopping at Vladimir along the way, and
takes just under four hours to make the journey. It’ll set
you back a bit but is the fastest and most convenient way
to make it to Nizhny Novgorod. One more option is The
84 Russia In Your Pocket
Lastochka train which runs three times a day in each direc-
tion and reaches Nizhny Novgorod in four hours. From St.
Petersburg the Volga train leaves daily from Petersburg’s
Moskovsky Vokzal at 16:50 arriving in Nizhny Novgorod
at 07:36 the following morning. It then leaves Nizhny at
19:25 and arrives back in St. Petersburg at 9:45 the next
day.QPl. Revolyutsii 2, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00, www.
nizhnijnovgorod.dzvr.ru. PA
STRIGINO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
There are several flights every day leaving from all three of
Moscow’s airports; they take just over an hour and prices
start from around 3,000Rbl. From St. Petersburg there are
typically two flights per day that take up to two hours and
cost upwards of 4,500Rbl.QUl. Bezvodnaya, tel. (+7) 800
100 03 33, www.airportnn.ru. PA
GETTING AROUND
In the warmer months, Nizhny is a pleasant city to see on
foot, and many of its attractions are within comfortable
walking distance of each other; however, understanding
its transport system is of course helpful when you’re tired
or don’t feel like braving the rain.
Once in Nizhny Novgorod you will find the city centre is
very walkable whilst public transport in Nizhny Novgorod
(served by a network of metro, trams and buses) is very
well developed.
SIGHTSEEING
1 THE KREMLIN
Like any good Kremlin, Nizhny’s red brick edifice overlook-
ing the winding Volga would once have struck fear into
the hearts of the baddies du jour. Even today, as it appears
around the river bend to travellers arriving by boat, it is
an impressive structure. It currently houses municipal gov-
ernment centres, two galleries, a church and a war memo-
rial, as well as small museums in some of the towers. QPl.
Minina i Pozharskogo, tel. (+7) 831 282 25 40, www.
ngiamz.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 100 - 250Rbl.
www.inyourpocket.com/nizhnynovgorod
2 ALEXANDER NEVSKY CATHEDRAL
One of the big symbols of the city, the Alexander
Nevsky Cathedral was completed in 1881. A difficult
century and a bit followed, and restoration of the ca-
thedral didn’t begin until 1983, being returned to the
Russian Orthodox Church almost a decade later in 1992.
Today it has retained its place as one of the most mag-
nificent sights in Nizhny. QUl. Strelka 3a, tel. (+7) 831
246 24 84, www.nevskiy-nne.ru. Open 07:30 - 19:00.
Admission free.
3 ANNUNCIATION MONASTERY
One of the oldest buildings in the city, the 13th century
Annunciation Monastery is located in an area of lush
parkland that is worth a visit on its own. Most of the
churches in the complex aren’t quite as old, but that
shouldn’t be held against them. A fine spot in town.
QMelnichny per. 8, tel. (+7) 831 430 55 78, www.
blagomm.ru/english. Open 06:00 - 18:00. Excursions
20 - 100Rbl.
4 PECHERSKY MONASTERY
A landslide destroyed
the original monastery in
the 16th century, causing
those in charge to up sticks
and move a kilometre
upstream. The Pechersky
Monastery now sits in a
gorgeous position on the
edge of the Volga. It re-
sembles a small kremlin of sorts, with plenty of fascinating
religious structures within its red brick walls.QPrivolzhs-
kaya ul. 108, tel. (+7) 831 432 66 50, www.pecherskiy.
nne.ru. Admission free.
5 OLD FAIRGROUND CATHEDRAL
If you’re thinking this cathedral looks rather similar to
St. Isaac’s in St. Petersburg, you aren’t wrong. This was a
prototype of sorts, and as such it carries a history that is
as fascinating as any other in the city. The initial frescoes
inside caused no small amount of controversy too, so
visit the cathedral for the full story on that front. QYar-
morochny proezd 10, tel. (+7) 831 246 07 15, www.
nne.ru/objects.
6 BOTANICAL GARDEN
If you don’t know what you are going to get with a Botani-
cal Garden, we aren’t entirely sure what to say. Plenty of
greenery and fresh air abounds at the one in Nizhny. and
there are a number of themed tours for all the family.QUl.
Botanichesky sad 1, tel. (+7) 831 466 36 04, www.unn.
ru/botanicus. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ad-
mission 100 - 200Rbl. With excursion only.
For hotels in Nizhny Novgorod go to www.inyour-
pocket.com/nizhny-novgorod/hotels-hostels-
nizhny-novgorod-en
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket
Nizhny Novgorod
FAN INFORMATION
NIZHNY NOVGOROD STADIUM
Nizhny Novgorod Stadium is being built in one of the
city’s most picturesque locations, at the confluence of
the Volga and Oka rivers, near the Alexander Nevsky
Cathedral. The area offers a wonderful view of the
Nizhny Novgorod Kremlin, situated on the other side
of the Oka.
Nizhny Novgorod Stadium’s design is inspired by
aspects of nature in the Volga region - water and
wind. At the same time, given its location near the
city’s most historic districts, the building must have
a silhouette that is restrained and severe. Its light
basic structure, made up of fine triangular supports
arranged in a circle, supports a semi-transparent
undulating façade that conceals the bowl of the
stadium. The building is surrounded by a walkway
connected by stairs inclined at a tangent, highlight-
ing the flow of the stadium. By evening, the various
façades will be lit up, highlighting their plasticity
and airiness.
Getting there:  Special public transportation lines
are being put together for the World Cup, and the
stadium will best be accessed via the Strelka station
on the Nizhny metro. Strelka will be the northern
terminus of line 2 (the Sormovskaya line), the much
shorter blue one.QDolzhanskaya ul., www.vk.com/
stadium18.
FAN ZONE
Locations don’t get much better than this, in truth.
Minin and Pozharsky Square is the centre of life in
Nizhny Novgorod, so it is no surprise that the square
will host all the 2018 FIFA World Cup fun this summer.
15,000 or so fans can pack into the square to watch
all the games, with the kremlin and the city’s main
pedestrian drag also found there. There are also great
views of the Volga nearby.
Hopefully fans will be too enraptured by the action on
the pitch to take in the river, but this is a World Cup
after all. There are a host of monuments and sights on
the square itself if the football heads into dreary ter-
ritory, so there should be no shortage of energy on
Nizhny’s main square throughout the tournament.
QPl. Minina i Pozharskogo.
2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 85
 Nizhny Novgorod
7 GAZ HISTORY MUSEUM
GAZ started life as NAZ,
and the story of the Gorky
Automobile Plant is told at
this fascinating museum.
The company started life
as a co-operative between
the Soviet government and
Ford, but don’t let us ruin the
whole tale for you.QPr. Lenina 95, MAvtozavodskaya,
tel. (+7) 831 290 86 98, www.museum.дкгаз.рф. Open
09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sun and last Fri of the month. Admission 200Rbl.
MUSEUM OF ARTS AND CRAFTS OF THE
8
NIZHNY NOVGOROD REGION
From the outside it may look like a dilapidated private apart-
ment, but don’t be put off: its peeling doors open onto an
impressive and beautiful collection of local artefacts from
throughout the centuries. The region surrounding Nizhny
is famed in Russia for its productivity in terms of traditional
crafts such as wood carving and painting, and one has to
admire the care and effort Russian peasants put into trans-
forming even the most mundane of household objects into
a work of art.QBol. Pokrovskaya ul. 43, tel. (+7) 831 282
25 43, www.ngiamz.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 150Rbl. Excursion 350Rbl. N
9 NIZHNY NOVGOROD STATE ART MUSEUM
A wide range of art is on show at the State Art Museum,
located inside Nizhny’s kremlin. It was once the gov-
ernor’s house, but it has since been given over the art
over the centuries, with plenty of English descriptions on
hand.  QThe Kremlin, 3, tel. (+7) 831 439 13 73, www.
artmuseumnn.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00,
Closed Tue. Admission 80 - 250Rbl. PA
10 RUSSIAN PHOTOGRAPHY MUSEUM
The museum houses a permanent collection that pro-
vides a short introduction to the history of photography,
especially Russian photography. Perhaps most interesting
are the unique windows onto the past provided by pho-
tographs of peasants’ and Old Believers’ villages at the end
of the 19th century.QUl. Piskunova 9a, tel. (+7) 831 437
37 43, www.fotomuseum.nnov.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri. Ad-
mission 70 - 150Rbl. PN
11 STATE ART GALLERY
Two historic buildings house the State Art Gallery’s varied
collection of paintings that stretch from the 13th century
or so up to the mid 20th century. The Kremlin collection
provides an introduction to the general progression of Rus-
sian art from icons to landscape painting and a bit of Soviet
realism; many of its items have a Nizhny connection, depict-
ing the transformations the city has been through since
its foundation.QKremlin, bldg. 3, tel. (+7) 831 439 08 55,
www.artmuseumnn.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 -
20:00. Closed Tue. Admission 80 - 170Rbl.
86 Russia In Your Pocket
RESTAURANTS & CAFES
ALI BABA
The atmosphere is cheerful and colourful, and whilst the
menu isn’t particularly wide ranging it’s got all the classics,
plus a lot of exciting teas in those bright block print cups
and usually some good specials. Also at Alekseevskaya ul.
15.QUl. Belinskogo 61, tel. (+7) 831 210 55 50, www.
pir.nnov.ru/alibaba. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
02:00. €. PTAW
BIBLIOTECA
The cuisine here might be Italian-inspired, but as a restau-
rant at the top of a bookshop, styling itself as a library, it
is very Russian in its love for the literary. Quotes printed
on the walls provide food for thought; actual food is
cheap - this is a popular student hang-out - and varied.
QBol. Pokrovskaya ul. 46, tel. (+7) 831 433 69 34, www.
biblioteca-nn.ru. Open 11:00 - 22:00. €. PTA
BOCCONCINO
Not the place to eat with your hands, although the pizza
tastes so good, you may really want to – the dough is magic:
thin crispy and light. The toppings are fresh and full of flavour.
QAlekseevskaya ul. 10/16, tel. (+7) 831 296 55 75, www.
nn.bocconcino.ru. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PAVSW
BUFET
It’s famed for its ‘Coffee from the Hussar’ - the Hussar being a
wizened man in a colourful hat who, upon receiving an order,
makes you a coffee according to a secret recipe that’s best not
inquired into. QOsharskaya ul. 14, tel. (+7) 831 218 03 38,
www.ekproject.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €. PEW
DRUZHKOVA KRUZHKA
If you’re a beer aficionado who’s looking for something a little
more classy than a Baltika, it’s a worth a visit to ‘Druzhkova Kru-
zhka’ (roughly translating as ‘The Friendly Tankard’), where you
can sample a wide range of authentic Czech beers. QBol. Pok-
rovskaya ul. 35, tel. (+7) 831 430 27 03, www.drkruzhka.ru.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PA
EDOK
A good value canteen-style café with a wide range of op-
tions for breakfast, lunch and dinner alike, this café over-
looks the station, so is suited to a quick fuel-up before or
after a journey.QPl. Revolyutsii 9, tel. (+7) 831 416 01 13,
www.edok.ru. Open 09:00 - 21:00. €. PAVSW
LA ROCHELLE
This chain of self-service patisseries provides cheap tea
and coffee at a number of sites across the city. Its French-
style tarts, cakes and pastries are good value and yummy.
Locations include: ul. Bol. Pokrovskaya 30A, ul. Bol. Pech-
erskaya 8, ul. Varvarskaya 44/41, ul. Belinskogo 38, ul. Kos-
tina 3.QBol. Pokrovskaya ul. 30a, tel. (+7) 950 354 24 70,
www.bigvolga.ru. Open 08:00 - 21:00. €. PA
MAMASHA CHANG
Nizhny’s only Thai restaurant may not entirely convince
fans of Thai cuisine but you can’t say it doesn’t try. If the
(quite detailed) menu doesn’t appeal and you’ve got
something specific in mind, just ask the staff.QRozhdest-
venskaya ul. 47c, tel. (+7) 831 430 41 69, www.mama-
chang.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat 13:00
- 06:00, Sun 13 00 - 02:00. €. PSW
www.inyourpocket.com/nizhnynovgorod
Nizhny Novgorod
SALVADOR DALI
BARS & CLUBS Salvador Dali and karaoke sounds like a terrifying combi-
BERYOZKA BAR nation, but that is exactly what is on offer here. Well, not
One of the classiest joints in town, Beryozka Bar focuses quite, but there are three karaoke rooms waiting to be tak-
on high-quality cocktails in a setting to   match. Spirits en advantage of. Plenty of drinks too, and the party goes
from the four corners of the world are used in a variety long into the evening at the weekend.QUl. Kominterna
of manners, concocting some fabulous drinks along the 10, tel. (+7) 831 270 72 22, www.salvadordali-cafe.ru.
way.QBol. Pokrovskaya ul. 51a, tel. (+7) 831 430 55 25, Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri 10:00 - 05:00, Sat 11:00 - 05:00,
www.berezkagroup.ru. Open 24hrs. PE Sun 11:00 - 02:00. PE
FRANKY
Taking its ideological cue from post-Prohibition USA,
Franky is another cocktail bar in Nizhny that knows exactly SHOPPING
what it is doing. The staff knows what they are doing too,
so merely give them a vague direction and await the maj- The region surrounding
esty.QUl. Zvezdinka 10, tel. (+7) 831 434 01 66, www. Nizhny Novgorod has
frankybar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. long been famed for its
GAGARIN artistic productivity and
Named after the first man to head into outer space, we’re the range and standard
going to ahead and avoid all ‘other worldly’ adjectives of its traditional crafts.
when it comes to describing Gagarin club in Nizhny. A The best place to get
Nizhny staple for almost a decade, Gagarin is as ideal for a your hands on some lo-
romantic dinner as it is a long night of weekend clubbing. cal souvenirs is the large
QMolodezhny pr. 12a, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 831 255 grey block of a building on Bolshaya Pokrovskaya,
53 33, www.gagarinclub-nn.ru. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri covered in red and yellow flowers, that also houses
08:00 - 05:00, Sat 11:00 - 05:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. PE the regional craft museum (Bol. Pokrovskaya ul. 43).
PAPASHA BILLY If you can brave the army of matryoshki you’ll find
You’ve got two options when it comes to Papasha Billy - a wealth of attractive souvenirs in Nizhny’s regional
do you fancy the saloon or the diner? Either way, you’re style, ‘khokhloma’, from swan-shaped serving dishes
going to be enjoying some American-style entertainment to the less traditional iPhone covers and computer
at this here spot. That means meat, whiskey and a good mice. There’s also a wide selection of knives and silver
time, by the way.  QRozhdestvenskaya ul. 22, tel. (+7) podstakanniky (metal holders for your glass of tea),
831 210 55 56, www.pir.nnov.ru/dadbilly. embroidered linen and painted chairs.
2
5
9 11
1
3 4
10
8
10 km
7 4 km 6 3 km
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 87
 Kazan
The Kremlin and the Qol Sharif Mosque
Popularly referred to as Russia’s third capital, Kazan is the
city – according to their official slogan – “Where Europe
meets Asia”. Some have also dubbed it the “Istanbul of the
Volga”. It is about 150 years older than Moscow and the
capital of the Tatarstan Republic – the land of the Volga
Tatars, a Turkic people commonly associated with Ching-
gis (Genghis) Khaan’s hordes. As the capital of Tatarstan,
Kazan mixes a rich Muslim Tatar culture – with its own lan-
guage and government – with Western Slavic influences
and is famous for being a particularly religiously tolerant
and friendly city.
The pride of Kazan is its impressive Kremlin, which boasts
both the vast, colorful Kul Sharif Mosque and the blue-
and-gold domed Orthodox Annunciation Cathedral and
in recent years the whole city has been beautified and
restored in preparation for the Olympiad – the interna-
tional student Olympics - which was held here in 2013.
For those looking to see where European and Asian Russia
meet and enjoy a glimpse into one of the country’s most
vibrant non-Slavic republics, there’s probably no better
starting point than Kazan.
If you want to know how to pack, Kazan has a humid
continental climate with long, cold winters (colder than
Moscow), and warm, often dry summers. Aside from the
football and the rich history, Kazan boasts the largest IT-
park in Russia (also one of the largest of its kind in Eastern
Europe) and, curiously, the shortest metro in the world
(the way from one side to another is just 10 stations and
will take you only 10 minutes). Tatarstan is also famous for
having chak-chak (fried honey cake) as the main part of
ethnic cuisine. The biggest 1000-kilogram chak-chak was
made by 20 cookery experts for the celebration of 1000
anniversary of Kazan in 2005.
ARRIVAL AND TRANSPORT
BY PLANE. INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT KAZAN
Kazan International Airport sits some 25km or so south-
east of Kazan, and as the biggest in the region it sees
plenty of traffic. Direct flights to many of Russia’s major
airports are available (Moscow, Nizhny Novgorod, Samara,
88 Russia In Your Pocket
Sochi etc), along with direct connections to Riga, Tbilisi,
Prague and a few other former socialist European cities.
Frankfurt is also a direct flight away from the capital of
Tatarstan. A direct bus runs between the airport and the
city centre, and there is also a quicker direct train option
from the train station. You can also order a taxi at a spe-
cial desk located in the arrival area of Terminal 1A. www.
taxikazancity.ru.QAeroport ul. 1, tel. (+7) 843 267 88 07,
www.kazan.aero/en.
BY TRAIN
Moscow and Kazan are well connected, with eight or nine
trains every single day. The journey is a relatively swift 11 or
13 hours (depending on the train you choose), and most
traverse the country in the evening. Only one direct train
connects St. Petersburg and Kazan, a journey that takes 22
hours. Be aware that there are two stations in Kazan, but
Kazan-2 is largely used for transit purposes.  We recom-
mend you two convenient trains: №002Й (20:48 - 08:00)
and №024M (23:08 - 10:45).
From St. Petersburg there is only one direct train a day
which leaves from Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya).
The journey takes approximately 22 hours and leaves St. Pe-
tersburg at 15:30 arriving in Kazan the next day at 13:58.
KAZAN RAILWAY STATION
Moscow and Kazan are well connected, with eight or nine
trains every single day. The journey is a relatively swift 11
or 13 hours (depending on the train you choose), and most
traverse the country in the evening. Only one direct train
connects St. Petersburg and Kazan, a journey that takes 22
hours. Be aware that there are two stations in Kazan, but
Kazan-2 is largely used for transit purposes.  Erected between 1556 and 1562, this is Kazan’s most impor-
We recommend you two convenient trains: №002Й (20:48
- 08:00) and №024M (23:08 - 10:45).
From St. Petersburg there is only one direct train a day
which leaves from Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstan-
iya). The journey takes approximately 22 hours and leaves
St. Petersburg at 15:30 arriving in Kazan the next day at
13:58.QUl. Privokzalnaya 1, tel. (+7) 843 294 03 00,
www.kazan.dzvr.ru/. Open 24 hours.
www.inyourpocket.com/kazan
GETTING AROUND
Kazan has a very well developed public transport network,
with trams, trolleys and a metro traversing the city until
12pm in the evening (midnight for the underground). The
metro was the first constructed in Russia following the col-
lapse of the Soviet Union, and the stations are gorgeously
designed as one would assume. Every journey costs 25Rbl,
and you can get tickets from ticket offices or on board.
SIGHTSEEING
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE REPUBLIC
1
OF TATARSTAN
The building which houses this museum is an impressive
example of the grand 18th Century architectural style
which was brought to Kazan during Peter the Great’s
reign. Inside is a museum mostly dedicated to Tatar arts
and crafts and culture over the last few centuries.QKrem-
levskaya ul. 2, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 89
84, www.tatmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00
- 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 50 -150Rbl. PA
2 OLD TATAR VILLAGE
After the Siege of Kazan
(1552) the tatars had to
move to the village behind
the city wall. The unique
ensemble of Tatar residen-
tial and religious architec-
ture was formed in the
17-18th centuries. There
you can visit the Märcani
Mosque - one of the oldest mosque in Kazan (ul. Kayuma
Nasyri 17) built in 1766-1770-s, the museum of the great
Tatar poet Gabdulla Tukay (ul. Gabdully Tukaya 74) and the
Galiaskar Kamal State Academic Theatre (ul. Tatarstan 1).
KAZAN KREMLIN
3 The pride of Kazan is its impressive Kremlin which boasts
both a beautiful new mosque and an Orthodox cathedral. It is
also the centre of the Tatar government and houses the official
residence of the President of the Republic of Tatarstan. Other
highlights of the Kremlin include the Hermitage Centre which
has regular exhibitions from St. Petersburg’s Hermitage Muse-
um. You can also climb the Kremlin walls behind the mosque,
where there are also many vendours selling local souvenirs.
BLAGOVESHCHENSKY CATHEDRAL
tant cathedral and the home of the holiest copy of the Our
Lady of Kazan icon. The interior painting and iconostasis are
mostly modern although many of the icons which were do-
nated to the cathedral date back centuries. Be sure to pass
behind the Cathedral to admire the spectacular view over the
river.QKremlin, pr. Sheykmana, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7)
843 567 80 73, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Open 09:00 - 19:30.
Admission 100Rbl. Excursion in English 1,000Rbl.
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket
Kazan
FAN INFORMATION
KAZAN ARENA
Ever wondered where the largest outside screen in
Europe was? Wonder no more. The Kazan Arena is a
futuristic sporting complex in the Tatar capital, with a
capacity of 45,379. The stadium looks like a water lily
from the sky, although it is unlikely any fans will get
to see that.
Getting there: There are plenty of public transport
options for getting to the Kazan Arena, but access will
change on game day. Passengers will be let off at Vet-
erinarnaya Akademiya (accessed by bus lines 10, 18, 33,
35, 35А, 36, 44, 45, 46, 49, 55, 60 and 62, or tram num-
ber 5) or at the intersection of Adoratsky Street and
Yamasheva Prospect, accessed either by a plethora of
buses (33, 46, 49, 60, 10А, 15, 18, 35, 35А, 36, 44, 45, 62,
76) or tram 5. Shuttle buses will also run from Kazan’s
train stations and airport.
 QPr. Khusaina Yamasheva 115a, tel. (+7) 843 245 34
34, www.kazanarena.com.
FAN ZONE
The 2018 FIFA World Cup Fan Zone in Kazan is unique,
to say the least. All the action will take place at the
Family Center Kazan, a new spot in the city that saw
27 couples married simultaneously during its opening
ceremony. It is unlikely that many lovers will tie the
knot during Poland vs. Colombia or Iran vs. Spain, but
25,000 capacity complex will be full of life throughout
the tournament.
This huge bowl-like construction on the embankment
of the Kazan river is undoubtedly the most unique set-
ting for a Fan Zone in Russia, just another reason to add
Kazan to your list for the summer and beyond.
EXHIBITION HALL MANEGE
This exhibition hall is lo-
cated in the Kremlin’s for-
mer stables and regularly
hosts photography and
painting exhibitions from
local artists.QKremlin,
MKremlevskaya, tel.
(+7) 843 567 80 67, www.
kazan-kremlin.ru. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Fri 11:00 - 20:00. Admission 150Rbl.
2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 89
 Kazan
HERMITAGE KAZAN CENTRE
Opened with the help of the Hermitage museum, this cul-
tural centre regularly plays host to historical and art exhi-
bitions brought especially to Kazan from St. Petersburg’s
great Hermitage museum.QKremlin, MKremlevskaya,
tel. (+7) 843 567 80 32, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Fri 11:00 - 20:00. Admission 200Rbl.
MUSEUM OF ISLAMIC CULTURE
Small museum and educational centre outlining the
place of Islam in Tatar culture, the spread of the Muslim
faith through the lower Volga region and giving some ba-
sic insight into how the religion is followed in Tatarstan.
QKremlin, tel. (+7) 843 567 81 25, www.kazan-kremlin.
ru. Open 09:00 -19:30. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. N
QOL SHARIF MOSQUE
In the 16th Century prior to the invasion of Kazan a mosque
stood here which was named after its leading teacher Qol
Sharif. It was destroyed in 1522 and for centuries the site re-
mained empty. Following the fall of the Soviet Union, the
mosque was rebuilt, albeit in a modern style. Now it stands
as a prominent symbol of the city, rightly recognised as one
of Kazan’s most worthy sights as well as Europe’s largest
mosque.QKremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 80
01, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Open 09:00 - 19:30.
SHOPPING
Kazan is unlike anywhere else
in Russia, so be sure to pick up
a traditional souvenir or three
in order to remind you of what
we can only hope is a glorious
time in the Tatar capital. Tradi-
tional clothing is always a win-
ner, but the old male headdress
in these parts deserves extra attention. Men absolutely
should purchase a tubetey, but be ready to shell out a
bit of money for a genuine one unless you want to go
home with a cheap knock-off. If headwear isn’t your
type of thing, get yourself a pair of fantastic Tatar boots.
The Islamic population in Russia is largely forgotten, and
Muslims make up 55% of the Tatar population. Unique
Muslim Tatar designs are a fantastic choice of souvenir
in that case, whether it is special versions of the Koran or
something a little less intense. If all else fails, Kazan cats
are famous souvenirs from the region. Check out the cat
monument while you are in town for more on that.
90 Russia In Your Pocket
RESTAURANTS & CAFES
BURBON
Not the cheapest option in town, but Burbon gives the
impression that it isn’t too bothered with affordability. Ex-
cellent European cuisine and plenty of live entertainment
are on offer for the price in one of Kazan’s more upmarket
options.QKremlyovskaya ul. 10, tel. (+7) 843 221 02 08,
www.vkus116.ru/bourbon. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 05:00. €€. PAE
GASTROBAR 8
A very popular spot in the city centre, Gastrobar 8 offers
drinks and food and an energetic atmosphere at an afford-
able price. It isn’t gourmet cuisine, but it doesn’t pretend
to be. Simple yet effective.QUl. Pushkina 8, tel. (+7) 843
590 88 88, www.gastrobar8.ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAE
HOUSE OF TATAR CULINARY
Traditional Tatar cuisine in plush surroundings resplendent with
bold Tatar colours and patterns. Popular with Kazan’s business
community and those in government.QUl. Baumana 31/12,
MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 70 70, www.domtk.
com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAEW
MALABAR
One of the most popular restaurants in the city, Malabar
deserves every single one of the individuals who come
through the door. The interior may be a little kitschy
for some, but the energy and atmosphere is infectious.
The food is pretty fantastic too.  QMal. Krasnaya ul.
13, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 236 74 33, www.
malabar-kazan.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW
PANORAMA
If you’re heading to a restaurant called ‘Panorama’, the least
you expect is a nice view. That is achieved and then some
here, in this classy joint on the top floor of the Riviera en-
tertainment complex. The rotating platform allows for 360
views of the city too, although we always struggled with
eating in motion.QPr. Fatykha Amirkhana 1b, tel. (+7) 843
526 56 56, www.kazanriviera.ru/restaurants/panorama.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. P
PASHMIR
Kazan is the centre of an extremely varied region, and those
influences come together at Pashmir. Eastern flavours col-
lide to create something delectable, and the summer ter-
race is one of the best in the city.QUl. Khadi Taktash 30,
MSukonnaya Sloboda, tel. (+7) 843 277 99 44, www.
pashmir.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PAW
TRUFFO
If you’re looking for a Parisian-style bakery cafe in the Tatar
capital, you’ve found it. Well, you still need to get to the
street named after Maxim Gorky, but you get the point. If
you happen to be after boozy coffees and snails too, you’re
in luck. Weird, but in luck. QUl. Gorkogo 19/8, tel. (+7)
843 230 41 44, www.truffo.ru. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Mon
11:00 - 23:00. €. PS
For hotels in Kazan go to www.inyourpocket.com/
kazan/hotels-hostels-kazan-en
www.inyourpocket.com/kazan
BARS & CLUBS
COYOTE UGLY
This place is famous for its playful bar staff, live music
and all night dancing. The DJs spring pop and rock music,
to which you can groove and dance effortlessly. Coyote
Ugly is the perfect place for partying with old friends or
making new ones.QUl. Baumana 13, tel. (+7) 843 292
45 08, www.coyoteugly.ru/kazan. Open 20:00 - 06:00.
€€. P A
IRISH PUB DUBLIN
Probably the best pub in Kazan. The Dublin has plenty of at-
mosphere, although after football matches when Kazan Ru-
bin fans march in to sing songs and celebrate things can feel
a bit chaotic.QUl. Ostrovskogo 39/6, MPloshchad Tu-
kaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 67 01, www.kazanpub.ru/dublin.
Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. €. PAEW
KORSTON
A monolithic hotel and entertainment complex in Kazan’s
business district, Korston is not a place at which to turn up in
tatty jeans and Fantomas shirt. Dress well and put on those
airs, and enjoy the views of the city and its most beautiful
people.QUl. Nikolaya Yershova 1a, tel. (+7) 800 100 99 89,
www.korston.ru/kazan. Open 24hrs. PEK
MELLOW BAR
Design is everything at Mellow Bar, and the attention to
detail can only be described as immaculate. Over a hun-
dred wines and just as many beers are available here, all
delivered by a team whose youth is only matched by its
ambition.QProfsoyuznaya ul. 10/14, MKremlevskaya,
tel. (+7) 843 292 42 20, www.mellowbar.ru. Open 12:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
3
1
2
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket
Kazan
TATAR CUISINE
To say that food is important
is as superfluous a take as can
be made in the modern age,
but it is particularly true in
this most unique part of Rus-
sia. Tatarstan is where Russia,
Eastern Europe and Central Asia collide, where the forests
of the north bleed into the steppe of the south, and the
semi-nomadic clans that make up this part of the country
and extremely traditional when it comes to what they are
putting in their mouths. The cuisine is extremely diverse,
but simple nonetheless. Spices are kept to a minimum and
recipes as easy to follow as possible, ensuring the survival
of dishes such as steak tartare, chak-chak and cheburek
over the generations. The latter of those hasn’t given any
signs of being in jeopardy of course, with the deep fried
turnovers taking pride of place as the so-called ‘Khan
of Russian fast food’. Modern trends have begun to chip
away at the thick traditional skin, but don’t expect fusion
cuisine to make its presence felt in Kazan anytime soon.
And when it comes to the daily tea time, don’t you dare
take umbrage with the Tatar’s favourite liquid pastime.
THE LEGEND
You must be fairly confident to go ahead and call your club
‘The Legend’, and there’s plenty of confidence oozing out of
the walls of this place.QUl. Parizhskoy Kommuny 26, tel.
(+7) 843 513 55 55, www.legend-kazan.ru. Fri, Sat 23:00 -
06:00. Admission 1,000Rbl (men). Free for women. EP
20 km
2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 91
 Samara
Samara embankment
Samara is one of Russia’s forgotten gems – often over-
looked by westerners. Located on the Volga River, it has
been a critical trade route and strategic location through-
out history and played a crucial role in modern Russia. It
was the home of famous Russian figures such as the writ-
ers Maxim Gorky, Alexey Tolstoy and revolutionary leader
Vladimir Lenin.
During World War II many factories and industries were
evacuated to Samara, which served as the second capital to
the besieged Soviet Union. Consequently, Samara became
a center for industry and culture and many designs for late
model World War II Soviet aircraft were developed here. The
city also played a vital role in the development of the Soviet
Union’s space rocket research program. Samara’s aerospace
industry is one of the most advanced in the world!
During much of the Cold War, Samara was a closed city, iso-
lated from Western influence and it offers a different insight
into Russian culture and society. It also became the refuge
for Guy Burgess and Donald Maclean, who were part of the
infamous “Cambridge Five” spy ring that provided informa-
tion to the Soviet government during WWII.
Today, Samara is a modern and developed Russian city.
Museums, classical music, modern art and restaurants of-
fer the tourist a startling array of culture, history and expe-
rience, while the night life is dynamic and active playing
music from classic rock to contemporary pop, performed
by live musicians in western and Russian styles. The most
notable speciality in Samara is undoubtedly the famous
Zhigulevskoye beer that was originally produced right
here by the eponymous brewery founded in 1881. You’ll
want to try it because it can get pretty hot here in the
summer!
ARRIVAL AND TRANSPORT
GETTING THERE FROM ST. PETERSBURG
By train: From St. Petersburg’s Moskovsky station (metro Pl.
Vosstaniya) one train a day departs to Samara at 14:20 and
arrives in Samara the next day 21:56 (31 hours).
By plane: There are two direct flights a day from St. Peters-
burg to Samara. The flights take around 2 hours 20 minutes.
92 Russia In Your Pocket
GETTING THERE FROM MOSCOW
By train: There are nine trains a day travelling to Samara
from Moscow. They leave from Kazansky station (metro
Komsomolskaya). The journey takes between 13 and 16
hours depending on which train you take.
By plane: There are 10 direct flights a day from Moscow to
Samara. The flights take around 1 hour 45 minutes.
GETTING AROUND
Samara is known for having a particularly well-organised
network of trams, which are the best way to get around the
city during busier hours. There are also buses and a metro,
but the latter is woefully underdeveloped.
SIGHTSEEING
1 ALABIN HISTORICAL MUSEUM
The Alabin Historical Mu-
seum has a collection of
180,000 items relating to
the full spectrum of Rus-
sian history and natural sci-
ences. It includes archaeo-
logical, mineralogical,
zoological, botanical and
ethnographic collections
and includes coin collections, rare books and weaponry
from Russia, Western Europe and the Middle East.QLen-
inskaya ul. 142, tel. (+7) 846 333 64 23, www.alabin.ru.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon and
second Wed of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl.
2 ART NOUVEAU MUSEUM
Located in this elegant Kurlina House, the Art Nouveau
Museum showcases some of the finest work of its kind
from the 19th and 20th centuries. The building itself is
impressive enough, once considered the most luxurious
residence in the entire city.QUl. Frunze 159, tel. (+7)
846 333 24 98, www.samaramodern.ru. Open 10:00 -
18:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission
80 - 100Rbl.
www.inyourpocket.com/samara
3 BABYLON GALLERY
An open gallery that is free to enter, the Babylon Gallery
showcases all sorts of art from all over Russia. Artists from
the Samara region get top billing, but it shouldn’t be a sur-
prise to see paintings from St. Petersburg to Vladivostok
also featured.QUlyanovskaya ul. 18, tel. (+7) 846 979 88
94, www.gallerybabylon.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
4 IVERSKY CONVENT
This convent was built by subscription in 1850 for nurses.
The territory for the convent was given to Orthodox
church on what was then the outskirts of the city by the
bank of the Volga River. The convent comprises three
churches.QVolzhsky pr. 1, tel. (+7) 846 332 81 46, www.
bit.ly/2HgEX7m. Open 06:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
5 LENIN’S HOUSE MUSEUM
Located in a late 19th century merchant mansion the mu-
seum preserves items of the period of Lenin’s stay in Sa-
mara in 1890-93. It portrays the atmosphere and the mate-
rial life of an intellectual family of this period. The museum
also has a zone for temporary exhibitions.QLeninskaya
ul. 131, tel. (+7) 846 333 68 58, www.alabin.ru/filialy-
muzeya. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun and second
Wed of the month. Admission 100Rbl.
6 NOVOE PROSTRANSTVO GALLERY
The name translates to ‘New Space’, and Novoe Prostrans-
tvo does indeed act as the contemporary arts space for
this formerly closed city. It offers a huge scope of events,
from poetry readings to theatre performances via exhibi-
tions and more.QPr. Lenina 14a, tel. (+7) 846 334 22 99,
www.facebook.com/novoye.prostranstvo. Open 10:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.
7 SAMARA ART MUSEUM
The Samara Art Museum has a fine collection of Russian art
going back to the 18th century. However, its modern art
exhibitions include some of the finest art produced in the
20th century by Russian and western artists.QUl. Kuiby-
sheva 92, tel. (+7) 846 332 33 09, www.artmus.ru. Open
09:00 - 18:00, Thu, Sat 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and
second Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 200Rbl. N
8 SAMARA COSMOS
Museum dedicated to So-
viet-Russian space explora-
tion. Outside the museum
is a Soyuz rocket designed
by the Progress Design
Bureau in Samara. Soyuz
are currently used for put-
ting satellites in orbit by
the Russian and American
space programmes. The museum has actual satellites that
have been in orbit and information about key figures be-
hind the Soviet space programme, including the chief de-
signer who established the programme, Sergey Korolyov,
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket
Samara
FAN INFORMATION
SAMARA ARENA
Samara Arena’s design concept is dominated by the
theme of space, as a tribute to the traditions of the re-
gion, and its renowned aerospace sector. The shape of
the stadium will resemble a glass dome. A light, metallic
hi-tech basic structure of weight-bearing supports will
provide a cover over the stands, which will be 60 meters
high. By the evening, the whole structure will be lit up,
emphasising the stadium’s expressive design. Complete
with a monorail that will shuttle fans to and from the
matches, the stadium will be an architectural marvel!
After the World Cup, the stadium will be home to FC
Krylya Sovetov, a club that has made a number of ap-
pearances in Europe’s club competitions.QDalnaya ul.
FAN ZONE
Kuybyshev Square is the obvious choice for the 2018
FIFA World Cup Fan Zone in Samara. Where else could
it be? The city centre square is the one of the largest
squares in the world, and can hold a whopping 31,000
people. It is named after Valerian Kuybyshev, a revolu-
tionary who chaired the local Soviet here back in the
day, and the town itself took his name between the
years of 1935 and 1991.
The square, surrounded by green parks, is no stranger
to heavily attended events. Military parades and mass
demonstrations have been held here over the de-
cades, so the enthusiasm of thousands of football fans
will be no problem.
and the first man in space Yury Gargarin. Displays are in
Russian.QPr. Lenina 21, MRossiyskaya, tel. (+7) 846 263
39 35, www.samaracosmos.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
13:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon and first Tue of the month. Admission 150Rbl. Au-
dioguide 50Rbl.
9 SAMARA FOOTBALL MUSEUM
Krylia Sovetov Samara might not be as famous as Spar-
tak Moscow, Zenit St. Petersburg and the rest, but the
Samara club has a proud history nonetheless. Much of
that history is on show in the Samara Football Museum,
reminiscing of better terms for the now second-tier
club. QMolodogvardeyskaya ul. 148, tel. (+7) 960 815
52 41, www.football-museum.ru. Visiting only by prior
arrangement by phone. Admission 150Rbl.
2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 93
 Samara
10 TRAM AND TROLLEYBUS MUSEUM
A museum dedicated to pub-
lic transport might not sound
like the sexiest thing going,
but don’t sell this one short. A
comprehensive exhibition of
different models is on show,
along with an old fashioned
tram on the outside.  QUl.
Michurina 3, tel. (+7) 846 309 95 37, www.ttu-s.ru/
history. Visiting only by prior arrangement by phone.
Admission free.
11 VICTORIA GALLERY
Founded as recently as 2005 (although that isn’t quite as re-
cent as we think it is), the Victoria Gallery is the place to go
for modern art in Samara. Talks and classes are also available
at this elegant riverside spot.QNekrasovskaya ul. 2, tel.
(+7) 846 277 89 12, www.gallery-victoria.ru. Open 11:00 -
19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 200Rbl.
12 ZHIGULEVSKY BREWERY
Samara has a proud history of brewing beer, going all the way
back to 1881 and the first state-of-the-art brewery in Russia. The
beer was rebranded Zhigulveskoye in 1934, and it was pretty
much the only beer you could get during Soviet times.QVol-
zhsky pr. 4, tel. (+7) 846 332 41 75, www.samarabeer.ru/
production/excurs. Tue, Thu 12:00 - 16:00. Excursions by prior
arrangement. Excursion and degustation 600 - 1,000Rbl.
PARKS
13 GAGARIN PARK
This large and attractive park is a little worn but is a great
location on a summer’s day. The park has lots of playground
attractions, carnivals and roller coasters. There is an attrac-
tive pond with swan-shaped boats for hire and several cafes.
QUl. Sovetskoi Armii 181b, tel. (+7) 937 985 73 04, www.
parki-samara.ru. Open 24hrs. Admission free.
14 VOLGA EMBANKMENT
The Volga embankment is the
largest in Russia. The river bank
makes for a pleasant walk and
is a favourite location for lo-
cals during the summer. The
embankment gives access
to several beaches where it
is possible to swim and play
beach sports such as volleyball and football.
15 ZAGORODNY PARK (GORKY PARK)
One of the oldest parks in Samara located on the bank of
the Volga River. A short walk from the Renaissance and Ibis
hotels and close to Samara State University the park makes
for a pleasant stroll. Playground attractions are also avail-
able for children and adults alike. The park has access to
an attractive artificial beach and also offers views onto the
Volga.QNovo-sadovaya ul. 150.
94 Russia In Your Pocket
RESTAURANTS & CAFES
CAFFE 47
Good Italian food is difficult to locate at the best of times,
so Caffe 47 comes in like a breath of fresh air in Samara.
There is a very European feel to this cosy spot, with a vin-
tage interior and relaxed atmosphere leading the way.
QNekrasovskaya ul. 47, tel. (+7) 846 277 07 32, www.
facebook.com/caffe47. Open 09:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
09:30 - 23:00. €. PS
CHURCHILL
It isn’t the cheapest place in town, but then quality often
comes at a price. The name suggests that there is a know-
ing nod to the British, but luckily that hasn’t extended to
the quality of the food.QPr. Lenina 14, tel. (+7) 846 313
00 00, www.churchill.perfecto-group.ru. Open 12:00 -
24:00. €€. PAV
KROSHKA MOLLY
It isn’t every day that you come across as an American style
steakhouse in southwestern Russia, but that is exactly
what we find here. The steaks in question are exquisite
too, and plenty of space in which to devour them.QUl.
XXII Partsyezda 46, tel. (+7) 846 995 96 69, www.molly.
perfecto-group.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAE
MARRAKESH
Not your average restaurant here, as seating is arranged in
a number of gazebos around a city garden. The food is also
above average, although many local residents have started
grumbling that it isn’t quite as good as it once was. Best judge
for yourself.QLesnaya ul. 23, tel. (+7) 846 277 93 79, www.
marrakesh.kinup.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAE
MR. HADSON
What better place to eat than on the Samara riverside? No
better place, that’s where. Mr. Hadson offers views of the
Volga alongside a diverse menu of international cuisine, with
plenty of options for vegetarians available too.QUl. Maksima
Gorkogo 82, tel. (+7) 846 201 40 20, www.hadson-club.ru/
uncle. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAESW
OLIVIER
Olivier sits outside of the main tourist part of the city, which
could well work in its favour. It is completely at odds with its
surroundings, an island of elegance in an ocean of residen-
tial drudgery. It isn’t cheap, but by gum is it beautiful.QSol-
nechnaya ul. 59, tel. (+7) 846 313 25 25, www.olivier.
perfecto-group.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAVE
PIR
Located on the quieter outskirts of Samara, Pir offers a
European menu, live music, smokers’ hall and children’s
room. It can cater for banquets and has an extensive
wine list.Q5-ya Liniya 4, tel. (+7) 846 952 93 11, www.
samarskiy.ru/restoran-v-samare. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
€€. PTAEW
PRYANY BARASHEK
Central Asian and cuisine from the Caucasus abounds a Pry-
any Barashek, in amongst a delicate interior and a more than
pleasant atmosphere. If you’re looking for a picturesque
spot in the city centre, look no further.QDachnaya ul. 2g,
tel. (+7) 846 973 71 71, www.milimon-family.ru. Open
11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PAW
www.inyourpocket.com/samara
BARS & CLUBS
BIBLIOTEKA
A pleasant lounge bar in the city, Biblioteka plays host to a
number of DJs over the weekend as the bright and beauti-
ful of Samara descend on the club. As the name suggests,
there are books everywhere.QGalaktionovskaya ul. 40,
tel. (+7) 846 202 20 80, www.bibli0teka.ru. Open 16:00
- 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASE
CHEER DUCK BAR
The craft beer revolution hasn’t really hit Samara like some
of the other big cities in the country, so Cheer Duck stands
out like the sorest thumbs. Beer lovers will find all of their
tastes catered for here, with plenty of tap beers and a lot of
variety in the fridges.Q3-ya Proseka 63, tel. (+7) 987 161
19 17, www.barcheerduck.ru. Open 14:00 - 24:00. P
HARAT’S IRISH PUB
Harat’s ticks all of the boxes you’d expect an Irish Pub to tick.
Guinness, televised sports and flags everywhere. You know
what you’re going to get from this spot. QDachnaya ul. 2a,
tel. (+7) 846 202 30 02, www.samara.harats.com. Open
13:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 05:00, Sun 15:00 - 02:00. PA
JAW PIKE
A pub and craft beer shop in Samara, the beer isn’t as con-
sistent as we’d like but the variety means there is plenty to
choose from. The industrial interior feels just about right
for a night of pivo.  QUl. Sovetskoy Armii 238a, tel. (+7)
846 321 31 31, www.jaw-pike.ru. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PA
For hotels in Samara go to www.inyourpocket.com/
samara/hotels-hostels-samara-en
8
6
10
12 4
3
2
9 15
11
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www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket
Samara
SHOPPING
Samara is known as the beer
capital of Russia, and while
the city’s Zhigulevskoye beer
has mixed reviews it is diffi-
cult to argue with its history.
The name was synonymous
with ‘beer’ during the Soviet
times, and is as much a part of history as it is the present
day. Be sure to visit the brewery and pick up a souvenir
or two. The usual roster of souvenirs are also available
throughout the city, all decked out in local colours and
showcasing Samaran customs and culture. Keep an eye
out for wooden souvenirs painted in the style typical of
Syzran, the third largest city in the Samara region. Beer
wins out though, and a beer mug at the very least is a
mandatory purchase.
ART&FACT
Part restaurant, part club, part karaoke bar, Art&Fact is the en-
tertainment centre of Samara. This is all about fun and good
times, both of which are guaranteed. We don’t say that lightly.
QVolzhsky pr. 19, tel. (+7) 846 242 22 22, www.a-n-f.ru.
Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. PEKW
BOOTLEGGER MUZCAFE
Atmospheric red lighting sets the scene as live music en-
tertains all and sundry, in one of Samara’s most chaotic
establishments.QDachnaya ul. 2g, tel. (+7) 846 973 78
78, www.milimon-family.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu
12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 14:00 - 04:00, Sun
14:00 - 24:00. PEKW
26,5 km 3 km
15
13
2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 95
 Saransk
Cathedral of St. Fyodor Ushakov
Saransk is a town of myths and legends, with a chequered
past and big plans for the future. Remembering his trip to Sa-
ransk, Leo Tolstoy wrote in 1906: “Old pines with long trunks
and short crowns. The soil is black, and a little stony… Back-
woods. The Sura River, and the best sturgeon ever”.
Located in central Russia, Saransk is the capital of the Re-
public of Mordovia and the area where all Finno-Ugric
nations began. Although not the most obvious choice for
tourists, it is one of the most pleasant and beautiful cities
in Russia, regularly scoring high in the All-Russia city com-
petition in recent years. This relatively small city is actively
promoting sports and has commenced construction of a
new, state-of-the-art 40,000-seat football stadium.
Modern Mordovia carefully protects the unique languages
and cultures of the Moksha and Erzya ethnic groups, who
inhabited the area for centuries. They belong to the Finno-
Ugrian group, along with the Hungarians, Finns, Estonians
and others. Saransk is a frequent venue for ethnographic
and folklore festivals aimed at preserving national identity,
culture and customs.
Very modern and European looking streets are attracting thou-
sands of tourists from all over the country. It combines historical
buildings, fascinating sport objects, crowded malls and cozy
parks. Saransk is home to many theaters, art galleries, historical
places and museums. The whole bunch of bars, restaurants,
parks, galleries, malls and night clubs will entertain anyone.
ARRIVAL AND TRANSPORT
BY PLANE
Believe it or not, Saransk does indeed have an interna-
tional airport. The imaginatively named Saransk Airport
went under extensive reconstruction in 2017, ahead of an
expanded schedule in the World Cup year. The airport is
just 7km from the city centre, but the only way into town
(at time of writing) was via taxi, so best get one booked
ahead of time. Qwww.aviamordovia.ru
96 Russia In Your Pocket
BY TRAIN
This is Russia, so train is going to be the best bet when it
comes to travel. Saransk-I station is a beaut as well, and the
city is relatively well connected with surrounding towns
and cities. Whether or not it is prepared for the millions of
potential visitors during the World Cup remains to be seen.
Qwww.saransk.dzvr.ru
BY BUS
Saransk has a bus station and a number of connections
with nearby towns and cities, but little else to write home
about on this front. As with almost everywhere in Russia,
best to stick to trains.
GETTING AROUND
Saransk is a small city, and thus the only public transport need-
ed is the bus. The city is small enough to walk around easily,
but the bus is there in case of emergencies or total laziness. Buy
your ticket from the driver when entering the vehicle.
SIGHTSEEING
1 CATHEDRAL OF ST. FYODOR USHAKOV
A magnificent cathedral in the centre of the city, this house
of worship is one of the finest examples of the 21st Orthodox
Christianity revival in the region. It is dedicated to Fyodor
Ushakov, the most decorated Russian naval commander of
the 18th century.QSovetskaya ul. 53, tel. (+7) 834 248 13
12, www.sobor-ushakova.ru. Open 07:45 - 18:00.
2 CHURCH OF THE KAZAN ICON OF THE
HOLY MOTHER
Another stunning piece of 21st century religious architec-
ture, this church contains a bell that weighs four tonnes
alone. The church was consecrated in 2011.QUl. Kova-
lenko 49a, tel. (+7) 834 275 00 45, www.hramkazanskoi.
ru. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
www.inyourpocket.com/saransk
3 MEMORIAL MUSEUM OF WAR AND WORK
EFFORTS OF 1941-1945
We’re not sure if museum names come any more com-
munist than this. The Museum of War and Work Efforts
is far from a dreary affair however. The building itself is
shaped like the Republic of Mordovia, and the exhibitions
continue this creative approach.QSovetskaya ul. 34a, tel.
(+7) 834 247 44 95, www.patriotrm.clan.su. Open 11:00
- 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
4 MONASTERY OF JOHN THE EVANGELIST IN
MAKAROVKA
Located in the village of Makarovka (hence the name),
the monastery grounds contain a number of interesting
churches and no small amount of fascinating history. Most
of what stands here has been rebuilt, cleaning up the mess
after the atheistic destruction wrought by the Russian Rev-
olution.QMakarovka village, Nagornaya ul. 35, tel. (+7)
927 274 50 55, www.makarovsky-monastery.ru. Open
09:00 - 19:00.
5 MORDOVIAN ERZIA MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS
As the name suggests,
this is the place to go to
explore the works of Ste-
pan Erzia. The museum is
home to more of the 20th
century sculptor’s work
than anywhere else on the
planet, alongside many
other important artists of
the past.QKommunisticheskaya ul. 61, tel. (+7) 834 247
80 94, www.erzia-museum.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Thu
11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300Rbl.
6 MORDOVSKI NATURE RESERVE
Established in 1936, this
vast stretch of lush green-
ery is home to all sorts of
fish, amphibians, mammals
and other assorted beasts,
although the trees and
shrubs take up most of the
space. It is   closed to the
general public, so be sure
to plan your trip in advance.QTemnikov district, Pushta
village, www.zapoved-mordovia.ru. Open 09:00 -
17:00. Admission 100Rbl.
7 MORDOVSKOYE PODVORYE
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM COMPLEX
The name roughly means ‘Mordovian Courtyard’ (well,
Mordovian Courtyard Ethnographic Museum Complex,
actually), and it is a journey into a Mordovia that once ex-
isted. Traditional houses and ways of living can be seen
in this truly interactive museum.QSaranskaya ul. 21, tel.
(+7) 834 247 22 49, www.mrkm.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Closed Mon. In winter Complex works by prior arrange-
ment. Admission 50Rbl.
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket
Saransk
FAN INFORMATION
MORDOVIA ARENA
Saransk is one of the smallest cities involved in the
2018 FIFA World Cup, but expect the Mordovia Are-
na to be a true hub of activity once festivities begin.
The stadium has been built for the tournament, and
the distance between the centre of the pitch and
the spectators is the shortest of all the venues. This
could well be the sleeper for best atmosphere in the
whole thing.
Getting there: Special shuttle buses will run be-
tween the stadium and the airport, railway station
and major hotels, taking much of the confusion
away when it comes to accessing the arena. The sta-
dium is located in the centre of town, but the layout
of the city makes walking somewhat inconvenient.
QUl. Volgogradskaya 11.
FAN ZONE
Soviet Square will be the centre of fan activity during
the 2018 FIFA World Cup, with enough space for some
20,000 fans. It is highly unlikely that this will fill up dur-
ing the competition however, as the games allocated
to Saransk aren’t exactly the most high profile. The
square itself has an interesting history, starting life as
the centre of the town before undergoing massive re-
construction following the Russian Revolution. Histori-
cal buildings were removed in favour of more practical
ones, although the House of the Republic is a real archi-
tectural treat. Most of Saransk’s major sights are within
walking distance of the square, making it an obvious
centre for the tournament. 
8 MUSEUM OF MORDOVIAN FOLK CULTURE
If you’re looking to learn
more about the folk cul-
ture of the people of this
region, this is the obvious
place to hit. The building
it is housed in is enough
of an attraction itself, a
delightful example of 19th
century Russian architec-
ture. QSovetskaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 834 224 67 94, www.
erzia-museum.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Ad-
mission 50Rbl.
2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 97
 Saransk
9 PUSHKIN PARK
The lungs of the city without a doubt. Pushkin Park domi-
nates the city centre, covering some 40 hectares and attract-
ing people of all ages, gender and the rest. There is always
something going on, so be sure to cover every single inch.
QKrasnoarmeyskaya ul. 12, tel. (+7) 834 247 62 81, www.
parkisaranska.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission free.
10 SMOLNY NATIONAL PARK
Established in 1995, this gorgeous corner of Mordovia was
put under special protection in order to allow natural life
to thrive, and thrive. More than 200 species of bird can be
found here, and there are plenty of picnic areas in which to
relax. Be sure to clean up after yourself. QSmolny village,
ul. Topoley 11a, tel. (+7) 834 332 74 65, www.zapoved-
mordovia.ru. Admission 100Rbl.
11 ST. NICHOLAS OF MIRLIKIA CHURCH
Not everyone believes in miracles, but it certainly is mi-
raculous that this temple managed to survive the 20th
century. The first ceremonies were held here in 1906, and
decades of life as a workshop and warehouse came to an
end when the Church regained control in 1990.QVolgo-
gradskaya ul. 90, tel. (+7) 834 255 77 45. Open 07:00 -
18:00. Admission free.
12 UNITED REGIONAL MUSEUM OF THE RE-
PUBLIC OF MORDOVIA
Exactly what you would expect it to be from the name, this
expansive museum takes a look at the history, culture, arche-
ology and more of the Republic of Mordovia. It celebrates its
centenary in 2018, so expect plenty of special events.QSa-
ranskaya ul. 2, tel. (+7) 834 239 14 97, www.mrkm.ru. Open
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50Rbl.
SHOPPING
If you’re heading to Saransk
specifically for one of the four
2018 FIFA World Cup matches
at the Mordovia Arena, we’re
going to guess that you aren’t
too sure what a traditional
souvenir from the area is. That’s
where we come in (obviously),
and we’re thrilled to inform you
that the answer is sweets, and
lots of them! Not just sweets of course, but the produce
of the iconic Lamzur factory is only available within the
republic, so be sure to pick some up to take away. Con-
fectionary doesn’t come much sweeter.
Elsewhere, the distinct Mordovian culture makes for
some interesting takes on the classics. The village of Uru-
sovo is famous nationwide for its felt boots, and the Erzya
people are as well-known for their artistic endeavours.
Keep an eye out for dolls wearing traditional Mordovian
attire, although you’ll be forgiven for stocking up on
sweets and little else.
98 Russia In Your Pocket
RESTAURANTS & CAFES
KABAN & BRYUVKA
The interior is a little bit all over the place, but the food
more than makes up for any confusion there. A great spot
for families and large groups, the menu has a global slant
and is all the better for it.QPr. Lenina 29, tel. (+7) 834 236
00 29, www.vk.com/clubhorovod. Open 12:00 - 00:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PLEW
MALINA
The name means ‘raspberry’ in English, and red is most
certainly the colour of choice for this third floor restau-
rant. It has proven to be somewhat divisive among locals,
and you are as likely to be blown away as you are to be
disappointed.QSovetskaya ul. 55a, tel. (+7) 834 236 00
08, www.barmalina.com. Open 10:00 - 01:00. €. PT
VSW
MORDOVSKOE PODVORYE
A large menu is usually something of a red flag, but that isn’t
the case here. Everything is as fresh as can be, with friendly
service and a pleasant atmosphere making for a wholly en-
joyable dining experience.QSaranskaya ul. 21, tel. (+7) 834
236 36 36, www.podvoryerm.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. €. PAEW
OLYMPIA
One of the more expensive spots in Saransk, Olympia is a
great choice if you’re looking to impress. The decor is all ele-
gance and grace, and you can expect to see plenty of events
during your visit. Whether the food justifies the price-tag is
another question however. QUl. Titova 23a, tel. (+7) 834
224 32 23, www.olympia-saransk.ru/en/restaurant.
Open 07:00 - 23:00. €. P
OTMENNAYA PELMENNAYA
You’ll be hard pushed to find a more homely interior
anywhere else in Saransk. The atmosphere is a little
calmer than your usual Russian restaurant, and it is
all the better for it. As the name suggests, be sure
to pick up some dumplings if you visit.QSovetskaya
ul. 31, tel. (+7) 953 034 30 00, www.otmenpelmen.
ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €.
PTW
PROKOFY
Known around town as a decent place to head for a cof-
fee, Prokofiy offers a decent roster of meals and desserts
to go alongside the caffeine. The service is good too, in
a thoroughly unpretentious environment.QKommunis-
ticheskaya ul. 87, tel. (+7) 834 233 30 00, www.prokofy.
ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €. PT
www.inyourpocket.com/saransk
ROZMARIN CAFE
A little bit out of the centre, but absolutely worth the trek.
A cosy place with a gorgeous ambience, Rozmarin accen-
tuates the menu with a packed schedule of events and
plenty of televised sport too. QPer. Kirillova 26b, tel. (+7)
834 231 77 70, www.vk.com/caferosemary. Open 11:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €. PE
SUMMER JAM
The name conjures up images of cocktails and sunglasses in the
park, so the interior at Summer Jam initially comes as something
of a shock. We mean that in a good way of course, with big tables
and all the facilities one could hope for. The food, more European
than Mordovian, more than hits the spot as well.QUl. Vasenko
9, tel. (+7) 834 230 83 07, www.summerjam.ru. Open 12:00 -
01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €. PEW
THE BIG PIG
Along with having one of our favourite restaurant names
in all of Mordovia, The Big Pig comes with a sizeable repu-
tation behind it. The portions are bigger than even that,
and the name suggests you’ll find plenty of hefty meat-
based dishes. The suggestion is correct.QBolshevists-
kaya ul. 60, tel. (+7) 834 237 36 00, www.thebigpig.ru.
Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PW
VERANDA BALKON
A bright and sunny spot in town, Veranda BALKON offers Rus-
sian, European and Japanese cuisine in a refreshing environ-
ment allied with more than decent service. Two thumbs up from
us.QBolshevistskaya ul. 60a, tel. (+7) 834 223 42 20, www.
rk-bm.ru/balcony. Open 12:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
For hotels in Saransk go to www.inyourpocket.com/
saransk/hotels-hostels-saransk-en
2 2,5 km 10
6 135 km
5
1
7
12
9
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket
Saransk
BARS & CLUBS
BEERLOGA
It might market itself as a pub, but BEERloga is more of an old
German drinking house than a dark watering hole. There are
plenty of big tables and all manner of hearty meals available,
all washed down with the amber nectar. QUl. Bolshevists-
kaya 60a, tel. (+7) 834 223 22 66, www.rk-bm.ru/beerloga.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. P
BROADWAY
Who doesn’t love karaoke? Okay, not everyone is into drunk-
en singing, but Broadway is the place to go for such things
in Saransk. All the classics are available, from Russian icons
to international hits. A few drinks beforehand is definitely
recommended.  QBolshevistskaya ul. 60a, tel. (+7) 834
223 42 20, www.rk-bm.ru/broadway. Open 19:00 - 02:00,
Thu 19:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. P
HARAT’S PUB
Sarank’s resident Irish Pub ticks all of the boxes we’ve come
to expect from Dublin-inspired drinking holes, from a great
beer selection to plenty of televisions and an almost com-
plete absence of light. If you can’t make it to the stadium,
this is the next best bet.QUl. Tereshkovoy 7a, tel. (+7) 927
977 07 19, www.saransk.harats.com. Open 12:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 04:00. PA
HOROVOD
The premier night club in town, HOROVOD offers much in
the way of excitement on the clubbing front. Loud music,
extravagant lights and locals dressed up to the nines are
all on show, as expected.QPr. Lenina 29, tel. (+7) 834 234
53 45, www.vk.com/clubhorovod. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 -
05:00. PA
60 km
11
8
3
2,5 km
4
2 km
2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 99
 Volgograd
Central embankment
Formerly known as Stalingrad, Volgograd extends along-
side the Volga River and has 1 million residents. The city,
some 940 kilometers to the south of Moscow, was founded
in 1589 and was initially called Tsaritsyn; for centuries it
stood as an important trading and military post near the
southern border. Volgograd and the surrounding area saw
some of the heaviest battles during World War II, earning
the city the status of “Hero City”, a Soviet honorary title
awarded for outstanding heroism during the war. The Bat-
tle of Stalingrad was a turning point in the war. The 85-me-
ter “Motherland calling” statue is Volgograd’s landmark and
can be seen from any point of the city. The Panorama Mu-
seum has a 360-degree painting of the battle, as well as
weapons and artifacts.
Nowadays, Volgograd is a center for ecotourism in Russia.
The city is close to the unique Volga-Akhtubin floodplains,
the last pristine stretch of the Volga river valleys. Lakes
make up 30% of the park’s territory and count over 200
species of birds. The city stands at the east end of the Vol-
ga-Don Canal, opened in 1952 to link the two great rivers
of Southern Russia. If you’ve got some extra time between
football matches, go on one of the river cruises down the
Volga. Dozens of boats operated by different companies
run from Moscow to Astrakhan passing by Volgograd. One
way or return cruises may be reserved to/from practically
any city along the Volga.
Volgograd is a true sporting city. Yelena Isenbayeva, a mul-
tiple world pole-vaulting champion and ambassador for
Russia’s bid to host the 2018 FIFA World Cup, began her
sporting career in Volgograd. Modern Volgograd is also
an important manufacturing center, with industries that
include shipbuilding, oil refining and steel and aluminium
production.
ARRIVAL AND TRANSPORT
BY PLANE
Volgograd does have an international airport, but its
global reach doesn’t extend much further than its name
unfortunately. There are direct flights to Yerevan in Arme-
nia, so the ‘international’ is meant in the most liberal way
100 Russia In Your Pocket
possibly. Direct flights to Moscow, St. Petersburg, Sochi,
Krasnodar and Samara are available however. The airport is
a 25 minute ride from the centre of town, although expect
to pay double for any luggage you may have. Qwww.
aeroport-volgograd.ru
BY TRAIN
As expected, you can get to Volgograd via train from pret-
ty much any western Russian city worth its salt. Moscow
(20 hours) and St. Petersburg (34 hours), and you’ll have
to change in the big cities in order to head further west.
Those heading in the eastern direction can find routes to
Irkutsk (92 hours), while many major Central Asian cities
are also on the timetable. The station is handily located on
Railway Station Square and is a Stalinist piece of work. Fans
of communist architecture may well get excited about
such things. Qwww.volgograd.dzvr.ru
BY BUS
The small bus station is situated behind the train station,
and that is about as much information as you’ll need. Stick
to trains for getting in and out. Qwww.avtovokzal-vol-
gograd.ru
GETTING AROUND
Volgograd is small enough to navigate by foot, although a
light railway exists for those looking to save their legs. There
is also a single metro line that covers the centre of the city.
An eternal flame in the Hall of Military glory. Mamayev Kurgan
www.inyourpocket.com/volgograd
Volgograd
SIGHTSEEING FAN INFORMATION
1 CHURCH OF ALL SAINTS
Located close to the gigantic Motherland Calls! statue VOLGOGRAD ARENA
on Mamayev Kurgan, the Church of All Saints was built Volgograd Arena was built on the site of the Central
once communism fell and religious feelings were allow Stadium, at the foot of the Mamayev Kurgan war me-
to brew once again. The church itself is a fairly standard morial. The location of the previous stadium is a Mecca
Russian Orthodox church, but the location and meaning for local football supporters, with the more seasoned
transcend that.QMamaev Kurgan 4, tel. (+7) 844 224 among them able to remember European victory over
15 14, www.vseh-svjtih.cerkov.ru. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Manchester United and domestic battles with Spartak
Admission free. Moscow.
The stadium’s façade takes the form of an inverted,
2 CHURCH OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST truncated cone with an open lattice structure, lending
The oldest church in the the entire building a monumental solidity. The design
city, the Church of St. for the façade supports and the windbreaks embody
John the Baptist started aspects of a Victory Day firework display. The special
out life in 1589 as a wood- way in which the stadium’s roof has been constructed,
en church, being replaced with cables reminiscent of the spokes of the wheel on
by a stone version a cen- a bicycle, lends the arena an extra element of airiness.
tury later. The church was After the World Cup, the stadium will be home to FC
blown up by the Soviets Rotor, which in the past has finished in the top three in
in the 1930s, being re- the Russian championship.QPr. Lenina.
built in the ‘90s following the end of the communist
era.QKrasnoznamenskaya ul. 2, tel. (+7) 844 238 09
55, www.ioann-predtecha.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Admission free.
3 CHURCH OF ST. NIKITA
The oldest Orthodox temple in the city, this building traces
its history back to 1795. It has seen a number of renova-
tions over the years, and contains some truly unique types
of architecture when it comes to Russian churches.QAb-
ganerovskaya ul. 110a, tel. (+7) 844 244 58 87, www.
nikiti-ispoved.cerkov.ru. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sun 07:00 FAN ZONE
- 17:00. Admission free. All of the 2018 FIFA World Cup festivities in Volgograd
will centre around the city’s famous central embank-
4 KAZAN CATHEDRAL ment, known as the 62nd Army Embankment. The em-
One of the few churches bankment, which holds up to 15,000 people, is named
to survive the initial after the famous army unit that courageously fought
revolution, the Kazan Ca- in the Battle of Stalingrad, arguably the defining bat-
thedral was heavily dam- tle of World War II. The entire battalion was eventually
aged during the siege rewarded with the Order of Lenin.
and was actually used Sieges and shells will be far from the minds of revel-
by the Germans to hold a lers throughout June and July this year however, as the
mass to celebrate a pre- embankment will show live games and offer all man-
sumed quick victory. Oh ner of information while the tournament runs. If you’re
how wrong they were. after some World Cup atmosphere in Volgograd, this is
QLipetskaya ul. 10, tel. your spot.
(+7) 844 294 78 43, www.volgograd-sobor.ru. Open
07:00 - 18:00. Admission free. 6 PANORAMA MUSEUM OF THE BATTLE OF
STALINGRAD
5 MUSEUM RESERVE OLD SAREPTA The iconic battle of World War II is explored in this mono-
Today’s Krasnoarmeysk was once known as Sarepta, lithic museum, with a host of exhibitions dissecting the
and the entire district is now home to an open air mu- fight down to the last miserable detail. The eponymous
seum showing the traditional ways of the 18th centu- panorama is the undoubted highlight, and not for the
ry German Catholic settlers who first set up shop here. faint of heart. QUl. Imeni Marshala Chuikova 47, tel. (+7)
QIzobilnaya ul. 10, tel. (+7) 844 267 33 02, www. 844 255 00 83, www.stalingrad-battle.ru. Open 10:00 -
sareptamuseum.ru. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
18:30. Closed Mon. Admission 200Rbl. Admission 250Rbl.
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 101
 Volgograd
7 MAMAYEV KURGAN
RESTAURANTS & CAFES
BAMBERG
It is always going to be a little bit strange to see anything
traditionally German experiencing popularity in Volgo-
grad, but it is hard to argue with the food and beerfest that
is Bamberg. The beer is as fresh as you’re getting in the city
too.QSovetskaya ul. 20, tel. (+7) 844 238 84 12, www.
bamberg-beer.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PVS
BAR & GRILL
We do love ourselves a place that does exactly what it
says on the tin, and ‘Bar & Grill’ certainly ticks that box.
Mamayev Kurgan Memorial complex “To the heroes of the You can get drinks. and you can get grilled meat. Both are
Battle of Stalingrad” is a symbol of heroism and patriotism great. What more is needed?QUl. Mira 5, tel. (+7) 844
of the Soviet nation and a tribute to the memory of those 255 10 50, www.bargrill34.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
who died in the great battle of the Volga river, the most PALESW
significant land battle in the human history which became GRETEL
a turning point in the World War II. Hansel is long gone, but Gretel survived and opened a
thriving bakery and coffee shop in Volgograd. A comfort-
8 VOLGOGRAD MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS ing atmosphere beckons you in, and the breakfast and
The main art museum in service will keep you there.QSovetskaya ul. 20, tel. (+7)
the city, it was opened to 844 259 51 95, www.gretel-cafe.ru. Open 07:30 - 24:00.
visitors in 1963 to much €. P
fanfare. It was initially filled HUNGRY
with art from all over the It always seems strange when cafes name themselves in
country, giving it a strong such ways, and it is difficult to review them without saying
start before it segued into something about it. Will you be hungry when you leave?
a more local stance as Probably not, as the food is cheap, plentiful and very good
years went by. It is named indeed.QAlleya Geroev 5, tel. (+7) 844 250 39 73, www.
after Russian painter Ilya Mashkov, who was born in the facebook.com/cafehungry. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€.
city in 1881.QPr. Im. Lenina 21, tel. (+7) 844 238 24 44, PT
www.facebook.com/volgmusart. Open 10:00 - 18:00, MAMA NORKA PAPA BOBER
Wed 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and last Fri of the month. A somewhat unusual set-up here, but don’t be fooled by
Admission 300 - 400Rbl. the whimsical interior and chaotic atmosphere. This is a
fine bar and restaurant in town, with decent steaks and
9 VOLGOGRAD PLANETARIUM plenty of live entertainment on a frequent basis.QUl.
The concept might feel Imeni Zemlyachki 48, tel. (+7) 844 231 90 19, www.
somewhat outdated, but mamanorkapapabober.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
who doesn’t love a plan- 12:00 - 02:00. PAE
etarium? The Russians have MARUSYA
long been renowned for In an increasingly globalised country it is rare to see some-
their forays into space, but where so brazenly Russian, and Maruysa is as authentic as
the universe comes to you it gets. The building once housed a popular cafe during
at the only planetarium in the Soviet era, and the tradition lives on today.QAlleya
the region.QUl. Gagarina Geroev 1, tel. (+7) 844 259 59 24, www.marusya34.ru.
14, tel. (+7) 844 224 18 72, www.volgogradplanetarium. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PAW
ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 200 - 300Rbl. NOSOROG
A delightful European style cafe in Volgograd, Nosorog
is far subtler than the name suggests. The stylish interior
PARKS and refreshing terrace offer options in summer, making
There are plenty of parks in Volgograd, but not all of them this a fine spot for an light lunch or long coffee.QUl. Mira
are the lush green areas you would assume. The Central 20, tel. (+7) 844 238 32 07, www.nosorogcafe.ru. Open
Park of Culture and Recreation is as clunky as the name sug- 09:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PT
gests, while walking fans will have more luck with Victory STEAK HOUSE
Park or the suspiciously named Volgograd-Baku Friendship There’s something alluring about smoky restaurants locat-
Park. There is also a decent park named after Sasha Filipov, ed in basements, and the rough brickwork of Steak House
the young communist spy who was murdered by the Nazis more than makes up for the lack of natural light. The steaks
after being captured during the war. The street in which more than do their part as well.QSovetskaya ul. 11, tel.
young Sasha grew up now bears his name. (+7) 844 250 39 50. Open 09:00 - 23:00. €€. PAS
102 Russia In Your Pocket www.inyourpocket.com/volgograd
BARS & CLUBS
BUKOWSKI BAR
The interior is extremely busy to say the least, which seems
about right for this place. A lively atmosphere and laughs
abound, and after a while the chaotic design begins to well
and truly make sense.QSovetskaya ul. 26a, tel. (+7) 937
747 77 99, www.facebook.com/Bukowskiloungebar.
Open 17:00 - 04:00.
GORCHITSA BAR
The premier spot for cocktails in Volgograd, Gorchitsa Bar
is open late and is more than ready to entertain those who
pass through its doors. The aesthetics aren’t always perfect,
but the taste certainly covers up any issues there.QAlleya
Geroev 2, tel. (+7) 961 073 74 42, www.facebook.com/
gorchitsabar. Open Tue - Sat. Only by prior arrangement.
HARAT’S PUB
You know what you are going to get with a good Irish
Pub, and Harat’s definitely falls under the ‘good Irish Pub’
banner. Plenty of flowing beer and jovial staff allied with
live sports and flags as far as the eye can see.QKom-
munisticheskaya ul. 6d, tel. (+7) 844 252 35 33, www.
volgograd.harats.com. Open 12:00 - 02:00.
NEWSPUB & CARUSO
You don’t need to be a karaoke aficionado to have a great
time here, but it probably helps. A Volgograd classic, it is
well into its second decade with no signs of slowing down.
QUl. Khirosimy 15b, tel. (+7) 844 260 77 77, www.
newspub.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00.
For hotels in Volgograd go to www.inyourpocket.
com/volgograd/hotels-hostels-volgograd-en
10,5 km
9 6
8
3 13 km
2
4 5
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket
Volgograd
NORA CRAFT BEER PUB
The craft beer revolution is well and truly alive in Rus-
sia, and Nora Craft Beer Pub is one of the best examples
of it in city of the Volga. Classic pub snacks are also on
hand for those who get a little peckish during a drink-
ing session.QUl. 10-y Divizii NKVD 5a, tel. (+7) 909 390
77 88, www.norapub.ru. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
15:00 - 02:00.
PONESLOS BAR
No messing around here. Live music is often on the
cards, as masses of men and women gorge themselves
on meat and beer. The name loosely translates as ‘here
we go’, and it is an apt mantra for those who descend
upon the spot on a frequent basis.QAkademicheskaya
ul. 14/1, tel. (+7) 844 251 71 60, www.poneslosbar.ru.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00,
Sun 14:00 - 24:00.
PUSH
A little bit of something for everybody here, as Push is di-
vided into three distinct areas. Dance fans need head to
the nightclub portion of the building, while optimistic vo-
calists should make a beeline for the karaoke bar. Everyone
else? The pub awaits.QRaboche-Krestyanskaya ul. 2/1,
tel. (+7) 844 250 34 02, www.vk.com/nightclubpush.
Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00.
VS CLUB
With plenty of leather sofas and room for groups, VS Club
is an excellent place for large troupes of folk to rock up and
knock back a few drinks while deep in discussion. That is
if you can hear each other over the din of live music of
course.QVolzhsky, Naberezhnaya ulitsa 2m bldg. 2, tel.
(+7) 937 698 98 29, www.mega-space.ru.
1 7
20 km
2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 103
 Rostov-on-Don
City view
Known from the time of Herodotus as a land of warlike
Scythians, the endless steppes of the Don River basin
eventually became home to the freedom-loving Cos-
sacks. The flamboyant Cossack culture is still prevalent in
Rostov-on-Don, a modern city of one million inhabitants
overlooking the beautiful Don River. The village of “Staro-
cherkasskaya”, located 27 kilometers from Rostov-on-Don,
is the former capital of the Don Cossacks. Today it is a mu-
seum city and one of the area’s main tourist attractions.
Despite its profound history, Rostov-on-Don resembles a
young and fresh city, with many green parks and monu-
mental squares. The streets are romantically named Har-
monious, Creative and Lucky streets. Here one can find
the most unusual monuments: to a water pipe or to a
newspaper reader. River Don provides the city with the
serene and picturesque sand beaches and a unique cui-
sine, featuring fish and crayfish dishes. Rostov-on-Don
has a specific unique outlook because of its rich histori-
cal and cultural heritage. There are about 1,000 objects
of cultural heritage in the city, including 482 architectural
monuments (16 monuments of history and culture of
federal importance), 70 archaeological monuments, 8
large memorial complexes, 106 monuments, and about
400 memorial plaques. Also, the city is one of the largest
jazz centers of the country. It has become a tradition to
hold the following art festivals: “Donskaya Vesna” (“Don
Spring”), “Mini-fest”, “Russian Comedy” and international
jazz festivals.
Rostov-on-Don is situated about 1,000 kilometers south-
east of Moscow and is a key transport and cultural hub of
southern Russia. It is also informally known as the “Gate
to the Caucasus”.
ARRIVAL AND TRANSPORT
BY PLANE
Rostov’s new international airport opened in late 2017, so
you can rightly expect it to be clean, efficient and modern.
Named after Matvei Platov, a Russian general who com-
manded a Cossack division in the Napoleonic Wars, Platov
International Airport flies to all the major cities of Russia,
104 Russia In Your Pocket
along with various links to Asia and the rest of Europe. A
train connects the airport to the railway station in town
with a journey of one hour. Frequent shuttle buses depart
every 20 minutes. www.platov.aero
BY TRAIN
Rostov is a city of train stations, but for most visitors Ros-
tov Glavny will be the only one of any real use. Most of the
international and major domestic routes run through or
to here, one of the largest stations on the North Caucasus
Railway. A journey to Moscow takes around 17 hours, with
a run to St. Petersburg clocking in at a whopping 22 hours.
www.rostov.dzvr.ru/
SIGHTSEEING
1 ANNUNCIATION GREEK ORTHODOX
CHURCH
The original Greek Ortho-
dox Church was built in
1909, using funds raised by
Greeks who lived in Rostov.
It lasted 55 years before be-
ing brought to the ground
however, when the Soviets
demolished and built a pup-
pet theatre on the land. The
rise of Orthodoxy following the fall of the USSR meant that
talk about rebuilding the church was inevitable, and a new
one was built near the site of the original. Work was com-
pleted in 2014, and it has been open since the beginning of
2015.QKirovskiy prospekt 57, tel. (+7) 988 581 08 70, www.
blagorostov.ru. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
2 IVERSKY CONVENT
The convent was established at the beginning of the 20th
century when the daughter of a rich local expressed a desire
to become a nun. As far as 16th birthday presents go, that is
pretty difficult to beat. It functioned as a farming coopera-
tive during the communist years in order to survive, before
removing the facade in 1991. QNeklinovskaya ul. 4, tel. (+7)
863 235 41 63, www.iver-mon.ru. Open 07:00 - 19:00.
www.inyourpocket.com/rostov-on-don
3 OLD BELIEVERS POKROVSKY CATHEDRAL
An object of cultural heritage of regional significance,
the name is something of a misnomer. There are older
standing churches in the city, but this one was built on
the land used by Rostov’s first believers. The Porovsky
portion comes from the architect who designed the struc-
ture, Vladimir Pokrovsky.QUlyanovskaya ul. 37, tel. (+7)
863 279 03 41, www.izdrevle.ru. Open 24hrs. Admis-
sion free.
4 SERAPHIM SAROVSKY CHURCH
It started life as an infor-
mal church for local wor-
shippers, but by 1911 a
tangible temple had been
constructed. It had a brief
tenure as a music school
in the 1960s, but remains
a busy church in Rostov
today. It is named after one
of the most revered Russian saints.QPortovaya ul. 72, tel.
(+7) 863 240 90 02, www.serafim-rostov.cerkov.ru. Ad-
mission free.
5 16TH LINE ART GALLERY
An art gallery for artists, this is the place to go in Rostov for
those looking for, well, art. There is a contemporary gallery
alongside a public art space, and a restaurant and wine
bar to boot. It is the only contemporary art centre of its
kind in the region.Q16-ya Liniya 7a, tel. (+7) 863 250 68
41, www.16thline.com. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Admission
depends on event.
6 MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF TECHNOLOGY
Russia has long led the
world when it comes to
developing technology,
whether as an indepen-
dent state or as the domi-
nant nation in the Soviet
Union, and that impres-
sive legacy is clear for all
to see at this museum.
Everything from telephones to computers can be seen,
along with a number of interesting insights into espio-
nage and good old fashioned spying.QVoroshilovsky
pr. 65/102, tel. (+7) 863 298 71 19, www.itdrevnosti.
ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission
100Rbl.
7 MAKARONKA ART CENTER
Don’t say we didn’t warn you. The Makaronka Art Cen-
ter specialises in performance art, and needless to say
the classic traditions of theatre are rarely adhered to.
This is art put through a modern grinder and spat out,
creating something shocking and impressive at the
other end.Q18-ya Liniya 8, tel. (+7) 863 247 35 17,
www.16thline.ru/makaronka. Admission depends
on event.
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket
Rostov-on-Don
FAN INFORMATION
ROSTOV ARENA
Rostov Arena is situated on the left bank of the Don
River. Buoyed by its selection as a host city, Rostov-
on-Don will be able to expand in size by developing
its left bank, where the local tourism facilities and res-
taurants have traditionally attracted locals and visitors
alike.
Rostov Arena’s original design blends harmoniously
into the picturesque landscape. The shape of the are-
na’s roof imitates the meanderings of the Don River.
The varying heights of the stands allow spectators to
savor not only what is happening on the pitch, but also
to enjoy views of Rostov-on-Don. From the left bank of
the Don, the city looks particularly beautiful. FC Ros-
tov, the 2014 Russian Cup winners, will play its home
games at the stadium once the World Cup finishes.
Getting there:
If you’re traveling from the other side of the river, look
out for bus 516 or 39, both of which connect the arena
with the train station. Those already on the south side
can get to the stadium by train, alighting at Zarechna-
ya station, although a 25 minute walk still awaits from
there.QLevoberezhnaya ul., www.rostov-arena.ml/.
FAN ZONE
Rostov-on-Don’s 2018 FIFA World Cup Fan Zone will to
be located at Theatre Square, the undeniable epicen-
tre of the city. Able to hold some 25,000 people, the
square is where all the large public events of the town
take place, in the shadow of the monumental 72 metre
high memorial. If you are ever lost in town, look for the
memorial — it is visible from all parts. The other side
of the square is given over to the Maxim Gorky Drama
Theatre, hence the name of the square. The theatre
has three large stages, and has seen many classics in
its near century long history.
8 MODERN FINE ARTS MUSEUM
ON DMITROVSKAYA
If you’ve plenty of time to spend wandering around mu-
seums and galleries, be sure to check this out. Everything
except the permanent exhibition is free, an encouraging
sign for art exposure to say the least. It also continues the
Rostov trend of housing galleries in impressive old build-
ings.QUl. Shaumyana 51, tel. (+7) 863 240 38 72, www.
msiid.ru. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admis-
sion free.
2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 105
 Rostov-on-Don
PARKS
Rostov-on-Don is as green a city as you are going to
find, and there are a whole host of parks simply beg-
ging to be used for an afternoon stroll, or even late at
night if romance is your thing. As the name of the city
suggests, proceedings are dominated by the hulking
Don river, and the embankment takes top billing as the
most romantic walk in town. Don’t rule out the Bo-
tanical Garden however, a veritable feast of greenery
that does everything a Botanical Garden is supposed
10 to do.
Revolution Park 11 and Gorky Park 12 may be
two of the most common park names in the entire
country, but that doesn’t mean that there is anything
generic and boring about these two expanses. Foun-
tains, trees and all of the city’s inhabitants can be
found in one of the two (not all of the citizens at once
of course), but at no point will you feel like the pro-
verbial sardine. There’s plenty of air to go around af-
ter all.
Ostrovsky Park 13 rounds out the troika, and Rostov
Zoo takes the prize for the city’s largest green expanse.
This is one of the largest zoos in the country, and zoo
enthusiasts will kick themselves for not visiting. Those
ethically opposed to zoos should obviously give that
one a miss.
9 OPEN-AIR MUSEUM OF RAILWAY EQUIP-
MENT
If you see the name of this spot and can’t work out what
the theme will be, then we aren’t sure what to say. Lov-
ers of the railways will be in their element, wandering
around huge locomotives from a time long gone. Even
those without a special interest in trains will be im-
pressed by what’s on on show. QKazachy per. 44a, tel.
(+7) 863 238 28 95. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 100Rbl.
10 ROSTOV REGIONAL MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS
Situated in an absolutely gorgeous old mansion, the Ros-
tov Regional Museum of Fine Arts is fine for what it is but
is unlikely to blow anyone away any time soon. The high-
lights are very good, but the drop off between the good
and the rest is noticeable. The building itself may well be
the best part.QPr. Chekhova 60, tel. (+7) 863 226 45 14,
www.romii.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admis-
sion 55 - 115Rbl.
106 Russia In Your Pocket
RESTAURANTS & CAFES
8 ZYOREN
8 Zyoren has all the charm and cool of a caffeine house in
any major European city. The industrial style of the inte-
rior only accentuates that atmosphere, making for a fine
choice for a coffee break or quick bite.QPushkinskaya ul.
158/56, tel. (+7) 863 229 54 55, www.8zeren.ru. Open
10:00 - 23:00. €. SA
ATAMANSKY
‘Ataman’ was a name given to a particular Cossack leader,
and the home of one such fierce warrior has been expertly
replicated in this city centre restaurant. The restaurants spans
many floors, but the food is decent no matter where you find
yourself.QLevoberezhnaya ul. 8v, tel. (+7) 928 270 30 19,
www.atamankuren.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTB
BELLUCCI
Rostov’s premier Italian restaurant, Bellucci is a part of the
Good Restaurants group that consistently knocks out food
that likely deserves a more glowing adjective. The in-house
sommelier has also concocted the perfect selection of wines
to match the cuisine, making for the complete Italian experi-
ence (in the south of Russia, of course).QBol. Sadovaya ul.
122a, tel. (+7) 863 300 92 18, www.goodrestaurants.ru.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTB
COW
If you’re a vegetarian and you think a restaurant called
‘Cow’ is going to cater for you, then you may be beyond
salvation. This is for those thirsty for the taste of flesh, al-
beit expertly cooked flesh in altogether more enjoyable
surroundings. The garden is also great, and there is plenty
of variety when it comes to beer and whiskey.QGazetny
per. 84, tel. (+7) 863 221 12 95, www.cowbar.ru. Open
12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAEB
LIMON & MYATA
Harmony is the name of the game at Limon & Matya, as the
health conscious spot tries to find a balance between what
the brain thinks it enjoys and what the body needs. That bal-
ance is achieved too, all in colourful surroundings and with a
smile on its face.QUniversitetsky per. 65, tel. (+7) 863 301
50 30, www.limon-myata.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. €. PS
OSH POSH
As well as having one of the best restaurant names we’ve
seen in a long time, Osh Posh offers some of the most styl-
ish food going. The adage that you eat with your eyes has
obviously been adhered to in these parts, and the Uzbek
cuisine more than stands up to the high standards set by
the visuals.QKrasnoarmeyskaya ul. 168/99, tel. (+7) 863
270 89 98, www.pravberdon.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri
11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
PTAESW
PINOT NOIR
Type ‘Rostov-on-Don’ and ‘fine dining’ into any reputable
search engine, and Pinot Noir will likely be the first restau-
rant to peek above the precipice. That honour comes from
its experienced Michelin star team, so expect plenty of class
and gourmet (and prices to match) at this elegant restau-
rant.QPushkinskaya ul. 25, tel. (+7) 863 240 81 38, www.
eng.pinot-noir.ru. Open 09:30 - 24:00. €€€. PAE
www.inyourpocket.com/rostov-on-don
Rostov-on-Don
SMETANA
Pelmeni are the order of the day at Smetana, and the SHOPPING
Russian dumplings may well have been mastered at this
quirky restaurant in town. If you are struggling to find it, Rostov-on-Don isn’t exactly
just keep an eye out for the large carousel outside it front a shopper’s paradise, but
door.QBol. Sadovaya ul. 80, tel. (+7) 863 244 16 11, there are plenty of shopping
www.smetana-cafe.ru. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - centres and stores to keep
01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €. PAS the purchase-happy busy.
There’s even an IKEA! As for
traditional souvenirs, the re-
BARS & CLUBS gion is famous for its ceram-
EMBARGO ics. You can expect plenty of ceramic-based gifts as a re-
A large club on the riverside, Embargo is either going to sult, with everything from plates to vases and more filling
provide you with a thrilling night of Russian clubbing or the shelves. Russian dolls in traditional garb can also be
horrify you out the door. Expect loud music and plenty found, along with the Russian staples of vodka, fur hats
of stereotypes, over-exuberant bouncers and a party that and questionable Soviet merchandise.
last all night long (or at least until 06:00 on the weekends).
QLevoberezhnaya ul. 72, tel. (+7) 863 256 01 23, www. HEAVEN MIXOLOGY BAR
vk.com/embargovilla. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PE Is it heaven? If you’re looking for paradise in a cocktail then
FRIENDLY BAR you should probably change tack, in truth. Heaven Mixol-
The name might have come about when a non-English ogy Bar is the place to go in Rostov-on-Don if you’re after
speaker looked for pleasant words, but there is nothing na- colourful concoctions, although the cocktails generally
ive about Friendly Bar. This is an enjoyable drinking hole that take a backseat to electronic DJs and all night partying.
offers plenty of tasty food, not to mention staff who more QUl. Maksima Gorkogo 151, tel. (+7) 863 256 45 45,
than live up to the establishment’s moniker.QUl. Goroda www.heavenbar.ru. Open Fri, Sat 18:50 - 06:00. PE
Volos 14, tel. (+7) 863 229 50 79, www.vk.com/bar_ SVOY BAR
friendly. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PA Svoy Bar is a little bit jarring at first, what with its wildly excit-
able walls and mixture of tribalism and, well, skulls, but give
For hotels in Sochi go to www.inyourpocket.com/ it a shot. The cocktails are great, the staff convivial and the
atmosphere a treat.QUl. Shaumyana 73, tel. (+7) 863 279 79
sochi-en/hotels-in-sochi-en
02, www.vk.com/svoy_bar_rostov. Open 17:00 - 05:00. P
2 4 km 30 km
14
11
7
5
12
1
10
6
13
8
3
4
9 2,5 km
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 107
 Sochi
Marine Station
Sochi and its surrounding region finally became part of
Russia just over 150 years ago, in 1864, after decades of
war with the Turkish (Ottoman) empire and tribes living
in the Caucasus highlands. The royal nobility loved the re-
gion, with its healthy water springs, and the first Russian
sanatoriums were built along the coast.
After the Russian revolution in 1917, the working class
received rights for holidays, promoted by Lenin. Sochi
became the favorite holiday destination of Stalin and he
visited the Black Sea for a few weeks every year. You can
visit his dacha in Sochi, which is located near many other
Soviet sightseeing spots, such as the Lenin mosaic.
In the 1960’s, Sochi, and the whole Black Sea coast, was
developed in to one big holiday resort. Forbidden to trav-
el abroad, 50 million Russians went to Sochi every year,
and the region was known by then as the Russian Riviera.
With the fall of the Soviet Union, and the possibility of
cheap holidays to Egypt or Spain, Sochi decayed in the
1990’s and the region’s economy suffered hard.
When Vladimir Putin, a sport enthusiast and big fan of ski-
ing at Sochi’s Krasnaya Polyana, became the president of
Russia in 2000, the resurrection and face-lift of Sochi began.
In 2007 the city won the bid to stage the Winter Olympics
in 2014 and this saw the stagnating beach town transform
into a world-class sporting mecca. Today, the “Black Sea
Pearl” attracts more than four million visitors annually with
its amazing mountainous coastline, endless shingle beach-
es, warm sunny days and stunning sunsets. In summer,
coastline nightclubs pump out booming baselines from
dusk till dawn. Away from the embankment, magnolia-
and cypress-filled parks provide a fine setting for strolling.
Nature lovers can venture to the Agura Valley, which offers
easily accessible hiking amid waterfalls and sublime views.
ARRIVAL AND TRANSPORT
Train or plane? A quick or slow journey? You can get to
Sochi every way you want to. Especially in summer: dur-
ing the tourist season, the number of passenger trains and
planes doubles, they are also supplemented by traditional
for the coastal cities boats and ferries.
108 Russia In Your Pocket
BY PLANE
Russian airlines, such as Aeroflot, S7, Red Wings and UTair
offer daily flights to Sochi. Flights from Moscow take
around 2 hours 20 minutes, and flights from St. Petersburg
take approximately 3 hours 10 minutes.
SOCHI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (AER)
Sochi International Airport is the best and the quickest
way to get to Sochi. Air gateway is located in Adler district
and it is a hi-tech and beautiful place with plenty of cafes,
restaurants, shops and other facilities inside, even with
modern artists’ exhibitions.
Getting into town: The cheapest way to get to the city
is to leave the airport by bus or marshrutka 51, 105 and
105с to Adler and Sochi central railroad station and 135 to
Krasnaya Polyana. It will cost 80 - 100Rbl and take you up
to 35 minutes. Taxi drivers at the airport will definitely offer
you inadequate prices for a ride. To protect yourself, book
taxi or transfer in advance or use taxi app.QUl. Mira 177A,
tel. (+7) 800 301 19 91, www.basel.aero/en/sochi.
BY TRAIN
If you choose the Russian railway, make sure your train will
travel along the 145 km long Black Sea coast during the day,
preferably in the morning. This is an amazing sight, as we can
say from experience. At least ten trains per day travel from
Moscow to Sochi. The trains leave from different train stations
so check carefully at www.rzd.ru. The fastest train – which is
also the most expensive and luxurious – brings you to Sochi
in less than 24 hours. From St. Petersburg there are two direct
trains to Sochi during summer, and one in winter. The journey
from St. Petersburg takes between 35 and 48 hours.
ADLER STATION
Adler Railway Station is one of the largest in Russia. Local
electric trains, trains from neighboring Abkhazia and long-
distance trains from all over the country arrive here. The
station is located in a new futuristic building, created for
the 2014 Olympics. Inside, in addition to all the passenger’s
services, you can find fashion shops, small restaurants and
cafes, as well as the picturesque sea view. The old station
building with VIP waiting room lies nearby.QUl. Lenina
133, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00, www.adler.dzvr.ru.
www.inyourpocket.com/sochi
SIGHTSEEING
1 LOO TEMPLE
Don’t let the name distract you, the remains of this Byz-
antine temple have nothing to do with lavatories. This is
evidence of Christianity’s long hold in the region, and are
one of the key sites in Sochi National Park.QLoo Settle-
ment, Lazarevskoye District.
2 SAINT MICHAEL’S CATHEDRAL
The oldest Orthodox Cathedral in the city, Saint Michael’s
Cathedral was built during the victorious hangover of the
Caucasian War in 1864. The Soviets neglected it (obvious-
ly), but the glory days have since returned to this famous
place.QUl. Moskvina 12, www.sobormihail.cerkov.ru.
3 MY RUSSIA ETHNOGRAPHIC CENTRE
Built on the left bank of the
River Mzymta, the ‘My Rus-
sia’ Ethnographic Center
was established ahead of
the 2014 Winter Olympics
in the city, and offered ath-
letes and visitors alike the
chance to learn about the
many folk traditions of the
nation. It still does, so get yourself there when in town.
QNab. Lavanda 9, tel. (+7) 862 243 43 43, www.myruss.
su. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 250 - 350Rbl.
4 NIKOLAI OSTROVSKY LITERARY MUSEUM
Nikolai Ostrovsky wasn’t a particularly public man, and the fa-
mous writer used to live hidden away deep within an orchard
in town. His home is now a memorial museum, showcasing
the life of one of the Soviet Union’s favourite authors.QUl. Kor-
chagina 4, tel. (+7) 862 262 20 15, www.muzei-ostrovskogo.
ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Wed,
Closed last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 100Rbl.
5 SOCHI AUTO MUSEUM
Lovers of vintage automobiles may want to avoid this place,
as you won’t be able to leave once you enter. Over one
hundred classic Soviet cars are on display, along with a host
of other car-friendly exhibitions.QMezhdunarodnaya ul.
12, tel. (+7) 862 239 39 17, www.sochi-automuseum.ru.
Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 250 - 500Rbl.
6 SOCHI HISTORY MUSEUM
Opened in 1920, the Sochi
History Museum is one of
the oldest cultural centres
in the city. It does exactly
what it says on the tin, de-
tailing the long and storied
history of one of Russia’s
favourite resort cities.QUl.
Vorovskogo 54/11, tel. (+7)
8622 64 23 26, www.museumsochi.ru. Open 09:00 -
19:30. Admission 100 - 200Rbl.
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket
Sochi
FAN INFORMATION
FISHT STADIUM
Located in the Olympic Park in Imeretin Valley in So-
chi, Fisht Stadium was built for the Winter Olympics
in February 2014, and hosted the opening and closing
ceremonies. The stadium has been reconstructed for
the 2018 FIFA World Cup and was re-opened in 2017,
where the venue hosted several FIFA Confederations
Cup matches. Fisht Stadium was originally named after
Mount Fisht, a peak in the Caucasus range of moun-
tains. In the local language, Adygeyan, “fisht” means
“white head”. The silhouette of the arena, which was
designed by British architects, resembles a snow-
capped mountain peak. Under current plans, the Rus-
sian national team will hold training camps and play
some of its competitive and friendly matches in Sochi.
Fisht Stadium will also host a whole range of other
mass-participation events.
Getting there: The stadium is actually located in the
district of Adler, along with the airport. The stadium is
12 kilometres from the airport and Adler train station,
so walking is likely out of the question. Luckily for all
involved, the station Imeretinsky Kurort (Olympic Park)
is within walking distance of the Fisht, and can be ac-
cessed via the trains that connect Sochi with the rest
of the country. QOlimpisky pr.
FAN ZONE
Recently opened by Portuguese legend Nuno Gomes,
Sochi’s Fan Zone is located on the South Mall of the
city’s seaport, the spot that traditionally hosts all major
public events in the town. 10,000 fans can fit on the
square, which marks the beginning of Sochi’s gorgeous
pedestrian zone. A host of live music events are planned
alongside the matches, as World Cup fever well and
truly takes over the southernmost city involved.
CLIMATE
Nearly all the year is comfortable for visiting Sochi as
it belongs to that tiny part of Russia, which is happily
located in the subtropical climatic zone. Sochi’s sum-
mer usually lasts from the mid-end of May till the end
of October. This is the true high season with its tourist
peak in July-August, it also called ‘swimming season’.
The sea is warm and the air temperature is above 30°C.
2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 109
 Sochi
7 STALIN’S SUMMER RESIDENCE
Ever wondered how a totalitarian maniac relaxed in RESTAURANTS & CAFES
summer? Now is your chance to find out! Joseph Stalin CHE? KHARCHO! MAYAK BEACH
frequently used Sochi as a summer getaway when he Restaurant’s menu is all about Caucasian spices, juicy
wanted to rewind, and his summer house is now open for southern vegetables and fruits, and lots of fresh fish. Sulu-
visitors.QKurortny pr. 120, tel. (+7) 862 297 05 02. Open guni, satsivi, kharcho, lamb meat kebab and other fantasies
09:30 - 18:00. Admission 150Rbl. Excursion 300Rbl. on a Caucasian cuisine theme are also here.QPrimorskaya
ul. 3 bldg. 10, tel. (+7) 862 262 26 41, www.che-harcho.
ru/eng/mayak. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAE
SW
VOSTOCHNY KVARTAL
According to locals, this is the best place in town to tuck
in to Caucasian food, and we were not disappointed. This
huge place offers all the well-known dishes; the ones
unknown to the Caucasian kitchen, as well as the more
addictive ones: khachapuri (cheese bread), shashliks (ke-
babs), lobio (kidney beans with onions and spices) and
PARKS AND GARDENS much more.QPrimorskaya ul. 7, tel. (+7) 862 266 10 99,
8 OLYMPIC PARK www.vkvartal-sochi.ru. Open 10:00 - 1:00. €€. PT
Sochi hosted the 2014 Winter Olympics, and the remnants AESW
of those hugely successful games are felt all over the city. BRIGANTINA
The Olympic Park is full of things to see and do, includ- This is the best place for food, according to foreigners who
ing recreational centres, museums, parks and more. You frequently visit or live in Sochi. This French-owned restau-
can easily spend an entire day in and around this place. rant overlooks the harbour, has outdoor tables, and the
QImeretinskaya dolina. Open 08:00 - 24:00. menu of seafood and grilled meats are irresistible. Located
at the marina, this perfect place offers a magnificent view
9 RIVIERA PARK over the aquatorium.QNesebrskaya ul. 3, tel. (+7) 918
A Russian TV phenom- 608 71 11, www.brigantina-sochi.com/en. Open 24hrs.
enon, the Riviera Park Dol- €€. PTASW
phinarium is the place to BRUNELLO RESTAURANT
go if you’re looking to see The restaurant’s menu is an unexpected combinations of
bottlenose dolphins jump- ingredients and cooking techniques. Locals highly recom-
ing through hoops and all mend to sample original dishes from fish, seafood and
the rest. You can also swim meat: tuna with cabbage and orange celery or crispy pork
with the dolphins, which with green apple puree and kimchi cabbage. And don’t
has become an interest- forget to taste three different types of crab here.QEston-
ing successful method of rehabilitation for young people. skaya ul. 51, tel. (+7) 862 555 07 77, www.casinosochi.
QUl. Egorova 1, tel. (+7) 862 264 33 77, www.park- com/restaurants/brunello. Open 17:00 - 5:00. €€€€.
riviera.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission free. POALW
CORKS WINE BAR & KITCHEN
10 SOCHI NATIONAL PARK The atmospheric loft-style interior with rarity brickwork, a
Russia’s second oldest national park, Sochi National Park cozy terrace, an unusual wine list and a very modern cui-
was established in 1993 and has flourished in the two de- sine are all CORKs. The main thing to try here is something
cades since. The park is full of beasts, but it was the re- from section ‘Fingerfood’ - light snacks like pate, tartar
introduction of the Persian leopard in 2009 that attracted or bruschetta. For those who prefers more serious meals
the most headlines.QPlastunskaya ul. 17, tel. (+7) 862 we recommend home burrata, tomato soup with cod
109 34 49, www.sochinationalpark.ru. and steaks. All with wine, of course.QNavaginskaya ul. 7
bldg. 3, tel. (+7) 900 252 10 77, www.corksbar.ru. Open
11 ARBORETUM 12:00 - 1:00. €€. PAW
This park has a unique col- BARAN-RAPAN
lection of subtropical flora This restaurant with an eclectic cuisine specializes in
and fauna and it is one of dishes of meat, fish and seafood from local farms. And
the lushest arboretums in it’s the most fashionable and glamorous place in Central
the world. The park slops Sochi.  The name of the restaurant reflects the specifics
down the mountain to the of the cuisine, combining two gastronomic traditions:
sea and has a rope-way be- Caucasian’s “baran” (lamb) and Black Sea’s “rapan” (conch
tween the Lower Park and shell).QTeatralnaya ul. 11, tel. (+7) 862 225 50 25, www.
the Upper Park. QKurort- baranrapan.ru/en. Open 14:00 - 0:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 -
ny pr. 74, tel. (+7) 862 267 16 46, www.dendrariy.com. 2:00. €€€. PTAESW
110 Russia In Your Pocket www.inyourpocket.com/sochi
Sochi
RED FOX O’HARA PUB
A Southern Russian cuisine restaurant that can surprise by The name is something of a giveaway, and yes O’Hara
unique author’s recipes and the unusual using of local in- Pub is the premier Irish pub in Sochi. That should be Al-
gredients. It’s one of the best restaurants of the Krasnodar pine Pub actually, but you’ll struggle to tell the difference.
region that has been frequented by famous politicians, Large beers, a vibrant atmosphere and plenty of pub grub
businessmen and athletes.QNab. Lavanda 3, tel. (+7) 862 awaits.QNab. Lavanda 2, tel. (+7) 938 461 67 13, www.
274 44 44, www.redfoxsochi.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 0:00. pubohara.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00.
€€€. PTAIW ROYAL BAR
Not somewhere to go if you haven’t made a little bit of an
effort, Royal Bar is as classy as it gets in Sochi. Located in
BARS & PUBS the city casino’s main hall, the Royal is undoubtedly the
CHICHA best place to celebrate a miraculous victory or gain some
A popular bar and restaurant with branches in Sochi and Dutch courage before calling the wife to tell her you lost
Moscow, Chica is all expertly constructed concoctions and the house.QEstonskaya ul. 51, tel. (+7) 800 444 07 77,
food that is as aesthetically pleasing as it is on the tongue. www.casinosochi.com/restaurants/royalbar. Open
It also hosts plenty of evens throughout the year, so keep 24hrs. P A E
your eye on the full schedule.QNab. Lavanda 2, tel. (+7)
862 240 00 00, www.chichabar.ru/en. Open 13:00 -
01:00, Thu 13:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 04:00. PA LOO ESTOSADOK
COCOS BAR ROSA KHUTOR
1 3
Cocos ticks a lot of different boxes, going a long way
to offering one of the most complete nightlife experi-
ences in the seaside city. The best DJs in town ply their 10
trade here on the weekend, although the karaoke room 96
awaits if you’d rather create your own noise. There’s plenty 24
of booze to get you in the mood too.QUl. Vorovskogo 7
3, tel. (+7) 988 406 37 68, www.cocos-bar.com. Open CENTRAL SOCHI
18:00 - 06:00. PA
For hotels in Sochi go to www.inyourpocket.com/ OLYMPIC VILLAGE
sochi-en/hotels-in-sochi-en ADLER 85
10 2,5 km
6
9
5
8
2
4
11
19 km
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 111
 Yekaterinburg
Church on the Blood
Yekaterinburg, founded on November 18, 1723, was
named after Russian emperor Peter the Great’s wife, Yeka-
terina, who later became Catherine I after Peter’s death. At
the time, the city served as the mining capital of the Rus-
sian Empire as well as a strategic connection between Eu-
rope and Asia (which it still kind of does to this day). During
World War II, the city grew rapidly as industries and people
moved east to escape the war. Between 1924 and 1991, the
town was known as Sverdlovsk, named after Communist
party leader Yakov Sverdlov and signs with this name still
abound, particularly at the train station.
To this day, the city retains its metallurgical roots and the
metal industry is the largest contributor to the economy.
The city is situated near the Ural Mountains, the border of
Europe and Asia, and there are several symbolic monu-
ments to mark the border. UNESCO has named Yekaterin-
burg one of the world’s twelve ideal cities and, today, this
title perfectly suits the capital of the Urals, a territory full of
natural treasures such as oil, gas, gold mines and Europe’s
largest emerald deposit.
Today, with a population of 1.4 million people, Yekaterinburg
is the 4th most populous city in Russia, which means that the
de facto capital of the Urals is a bustling city with plenty of
culture, museums, restaurants, nightlife and shopping. In be-
tween matches, check out the Yeltsin Center, the Museum of
Fine Arts, Ganina Yama and the QWERTY Monument, possibly
one of the more odd monuments in the entire country. The
city is also a good base camp for exploring the Ural Mountains.
ARRIVAL AND TRANSPORT
BY PLANE
Yekaterinburg’s airport is located 15km from the city centre,
and is easily reached via the #1 bus. One of the busiest airports
in Russia outside of Moscow and St. Petersburg, it is used as
a hub by a number of airlines and services over four million
people every year. There are three daily flights to Moscow,
along with daily runs to St. Petersburg, Samara, Irkutsk and
112 Russia In Your Pocket
many others. There are also plenty of flights to the usual Euro-
pean hubs (London, Frankfurt etc). www.koltsovo.ru
BY TRAIN
The main train station is just north of the city centre, and
Yekaterinburg’s status as a major regional city means it is
no surprise that there are plenty of daily connections to the
country’s other big cities. That is a fairly liberal use of the word
‘daily’ of course, as Moscow (25 hours) and St. Petersburg (37)
are over a day away. Trains also head to Kazan, Novosibirsk and
more on a daily basis. www.sverdlovsk.dzvr.ru
BY BUS
There are two major bus stations in the city, but neither are
particularly reliable or useful. Neither has much going on
in the way of facilities, and the timetables change more of-
ten than timetables should. Best to stick to train and plane
for your transport needs. www.avtovokzal-ekb.ru
GETTING AROUND
Yekaterinburg’s city centre is more than navigable by foot,
but a decent public transport system exists for those look-
ing to save their legs.
METRO
The city’s metro might not be as vast and famous as its
counterparts in Moscow and St. Petersburg, but the phrase
‘small but perfectly formed’ almost certainly applies. Seven
stations and one line make it easy to use, with trains running
between six in the morning and midnight on a daily basis.
Tickets can be purchased from ticket offices in the stations.
TRAMS, BUSES, TROLLEYS
Yekaterinburg also has an extensive network of public
transport above ground. Most lines go through the city
centre (provided you are heading in the right direction),
but they may well take some pretty lengthy detours along
the way. Tickets can be bought on board.
www.inyourpocket.com/yekaterinburg
SIGHTSEEING
1 BOTANICAL GARDEN
If you’ve visited one Botanical Garden, you know exactly
what to expect from the one in Yekaterinburg. Plenty of
flora, green as far as the eye can see, and a tranquility
you won’t find in the big city. If you’re after some peace
and quiet, this is the spot for you.QUl. 8 Marta 202a, tel.
(+7) 343 210 38 59, www.botgard.uran.ru. Open 08:00
- 18:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Excursions by prior arrangement (+7) 343 210 29 58.
2 BORIS YELTSIN PRESIDENTIAL CENTRE
The West considers him
something of a joke, but it
is easy to forget the histori-
cal impact that Boris Yeltsin
had. The famous drunk was
Russia’s first post-Soviet
leader, and the Presidential
Center named after him
in the city honours Yeltsin
in a most respectful manner. Yeltsin grew up in the Yekat-
erinburg region after all, and may well be its most famous
son.QUl. Borisa Yeltsina 3, tel. (+7) 343 312 43 43, www.
yeltsin.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission
100 - 250Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. Excursion 1,000Rbl.
3 CHURCH OF ASCENSION
One of the oldest churches in Yekaterinburg, the Church of
Ascension is guaranteed to catch the eye of anyone stroll-
ing through the city on a sunny afternoon. Or a rainy one
too, although strolling at such times isn’t advised. There is
something magical about an old church, and they don’t
come any older than this in Yekaterinburg.QUl. Klary
Tsetkin 11, tel. (+7) 343 371 67 29, www.voznesenka.
cerkov.ru. Open 07:30 - 20:00. Admission free.
4 CHURCH ON THE BLOOD
A stunning Russian Or-
thodox Church, the name
of this house of worship
hints at a darker past. The
church was built on the
spot where the last Tsar
of Russia (and his family)
were executed way back in
July 1919. The church was
built as a memorial to the Romanovs.QTsarskaya ul. 10,
tel. (+7) 343 371 61 68, www.hram-na-krovi.cerkov.ru.
Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. Admission free.
5 NOVO-TIKHVIN MONASTERY
Founded in the late 18th century, the Novo-Tikhvin Monastery
grew from a small number of female monastics into the largest
monastery in the Urals, before the Bolsheviks closed it in 1920. It
was restored in 1994, and monastic life is slowly returning to this
most iconic spot.QUl. Zelenaya Roshcha 1, tel. (+7) 343 257 50
95, www.sestry.ru/eng. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket
Yekaterinburg
FAN INFORMATION
YEKATERINBURG ARENA
Home to one of the country’s oldest football clubs, FC
Ural, the stadium was built in 1953. Since then, it has
been refurbished on a number of occasions. The last
of these refits has been made for the 2018 FIFA World
Cup™. On each occasion, however, the stadium’s his-
torical façade remained untouched, as an architectural
legacy. Architectural and decorative features typical of
Soviet neo-Classicism were used lavishly in the con-
struction of the stands, along with decorative art in
the form of sculptures, vases and banners.
The stadium retains its recognisable historical façade,
although a roof and temporary stands was installed for
the World Cup.QUl. Repina 5.
FAN ZONE
The official Fan Zone in Yekaterinburg is located at
the fabulously wordy Mayakovsky Central Park of
Entertainment and Culture. The part is just outside
the city centre, and best accessed by trolleybus (5) or
trams (3, 6, 9, 10, 20, 21, 33). The park can hold some
17,000 people, and will almost certainly be bounc-
ing by the time the first whistle sounds this summer.
The park is over 80% woodland and contains plenty
of amusement rides, but the combination of football
fans, alcohol and theme park rides might not be a
pretty one. Fans will be hoping for a rollercoaster ride
for their teams during the tournament, and if you
thought we were going to avoid that verbiage then
you’ve obviously not read an In Your Pocket guide
before.QUl. Michurina 230.
6 MILITARY TECHNOLOGY MUSEUM
Military museums should
always be big, right? That
is definitely the case here,
and this open-air collec-
tion in Verkhnyaya Pyshma
is one of the largest on the
planet. Tanks, armoured
vehicles, helicopters and
the rest are on show, a veri-
table bevy for lovers of historical conflict.QVerkhnyaya
Pyshma, Ul. Aleksandra Kozitsyna 2, tel. (+7) 343 684
67 84, www.museum.elem.ru/ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 150 - 250Rbl.
2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 113
 Yekaterinburg
MUSEUM OF STONE CUTTING AND JEWEL-
7
LERY ART HISTORY RESTAURANTS & CAFES
Located in the historic centre of the city, the museum tells DOUBLE GRILL & BAR
the tale of two arts practiced in the Urals for many centu- The Russians love straightforwardness, and names don’t
ries. The museum covers two floors, and is filled ceiling to come more frank than ‘Double Grill & Bar’. Expect plenty of
floor with enough artefacts to keep even the most absent- grilled meat and no small amount of alcohol. The interior is
minded of visitors occupied.QPr. Lenina 37, tel. (+7) 343 from another world, a jaw-dropping example of pure class.
371 24 62, www.mikji.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 QUl. 8 Marta 8d, MPl. 1905 Goda, tel. (+7) 343 317 18
- 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 250 - 300Rbl. 56, www.doublebar.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 -
02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. PAW
8 URAL VISION GALLERY GROTT BAR
Founded in 2009, the Ural With an interior that is every bit as industrial as it is design-
Vision Gallery is one of the friendly, Grott Bar is one of the most modern-minded eater-
finest art galleries in the ies in the city. The beer is plenty good too, a great accompa-
entire region. The gallery niment to the international pub grub on offer. QPr. Lenina
is dedicated to contem- 49, tel. (+7) 343 287 70 08, www.grottbar.ru. Open 12:00
porary art both local and - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PA
international, and the fas- KHMELI SUNELI
cinating variety of exhibi- The best Georgian restaurant in the city (according to
tions offers something for some, anyway) Khmeli Suneli has plenty of space and a
everyone.QUl. Sheinkmana 10, tel. (+7) 343 377 77 50, menu to match that size. The staff and atmosphere more
www.uralvisiongallery.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun than compliments the toothsome fare.QPr. Lenina 69/10,
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. tel. (+7) 343 301 02 06, www.hmeli.ru. Open 12:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PVS
9 VLADIMIR VYSOTSKY MUSEUM MOI DRUG OLIVIE
If you’re thinking about Loosely translated as ‘My Friend Olivier’, the rather circum-
icons of the Soviet subcul- spect entrance hides a delightful restaurant in Yekaterin-
ture, they don’t come much burg. The service is every bit as convivial for a place with
more admirable than singer- ‘friend’ in the name too.QBankovsky per. 10, tel. (+7) 343
songwriter extraordinaire, 376 34 34, www.myfriendolivier.ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00,
Vladimir Vysotsky. The mu- Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PS
seum in his honour in Yekat- PANORAMA A.S.P
erinburg is full of Vysotsky Who doesn’t love a panorama? You’ll struggle to find a more
memorabilia, from letters picturesque setting for a meal than here, 50 floors high into
and poems to personal belongings.QUl. Malysheva 51, tel. the Yekaterinburg sky with the city lay out in front of you. The
(+7) 343 378 41 11, www.visotsky-e.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, food? That happens to be pretty good too.QUl. Malysheva
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 50 - 100Rbl. 51, tel. (+7) 343 298 98 88, www.panorama-asp.ru/en.
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PA
10 YEKATERINBURG MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS PASHTET
One of the largest arts museums in the Urals, the continu- You’ll feel like you’ve been transported to the wilderness and
ally evolving nature of it suggests a cultural house that the famous Russian dacha here. We mean that in the best
isn’t happy with resting on its laurels. That is exactly how way of course, as Russian classics are given a modern spin in a
art should be of course, something that is truly under- delightful setting.QUl. Tolmacheva 23, tel. (+7) 343 228 00
stood here. The museum is stretched across two buildings, 59, www.rest-pashtet.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PSV
both of which are definitely worth a look. Also at Ul. Rozy PELMENI CLUB
Lyuksemburg 18 (The Museum of Naive Art).QUl. Voevo- The name is something of a giveaway, and this is without a
dina 5, tel. (+7) 343 371 06 26, www.emii.ru. Open 11:00 doubt the best spot to indulge in some Russian dumplings
- 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admis- when in Yekaterinburg. There are two locations in the city, both
sion 250 - 300Rbl. of which offer English language menus.QKrasnoarmeyskaya
ul. 2, tel. (+7) 800 505 67 45, www.pelmeni-club.ru. Open
10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 24:00. €€. PSVA
VERTICAL
Another restaurant more than 50 floors high, Vertical offers
magnificent food in magnificent surroundings, with a view
that also deserves that same adjective. The service can be
better, but you’re going there for the view first and fore-
most.QUl. Malysheva 51, tel. (+7) 343 200 51 51, www.
vertical51.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€.
PAEW
114 Russia In Your Pocket www.inyourpocket.com/yekaterinburg
BARS & CLUBS
BEN HALL
Owned by a big name in the local music scene, Ben Hall is
predictably popular with lovers of loud live music. In a city of
clubs its rugged nature stands out like a sore thumb, in the
best possible sense.QUl. Narodnoy Voli 65, tel. (+7) 343
213 65 84, www.benhall.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00
- 04:00, Sat 15:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. PAE
MAXIMILIAN’S
While not as ubiquitous as Irish pubs, Bavarian beer halls are
fast becoming a staple in any big city across the planet. Maxi-
milian’s ticks that box for Yekaterinburg, The chain establish-
ment has locations all over Russia, and is pretty much a guaran-
teed fun night out.QUl. Kuibysheva 44d, tel. (+7) 343 380 25
00, www.ekb.maximilians.ru. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00
- 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PAEW
NELSON SOVIN BAR
The cream of the craft beer crop, Nelson Sovin’s has turned
its back on the more gaudy nightlife on offer and earned
itself a reputation as a can’t-miss spot for any lover of fine
beers. Both Russian and international craft beers are avail-
able here.QUl. Malysheva 24/1, tel. (+7) 922 198 92 22,
www.nelsonsauvin.ru. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri 16:00 -
02:00, Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. P
NEW BAR
Part art-cafe, part cocktail bar, New Bar is all class. It might
not have the most imaginative name in the city, but who
needs a fancy name when you have expertly concocted
drinks and a convivial atmosphere?QUl. 8 Marta 8d,
MPl. 1905 Goda, tel. (+7) 953 606 76 84, www.new-
bar.ru. Open 18:00 - 06:00. PAE
6 12 km
2 4
8 7
10
5 1
www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket
Yekaterinburg
SHOPPING
What souvenirs you be on
the lookout for in Yekaterin-
burg? This part of the world
is best known for its remark-
able amount of minerals, and
the old claim that a third of all
minerals can be found in the
Urals means it is no surprise to
see an abundance of gems and semi-precious stones
available. Green malachite is the most famous of these,
the great symbol of the Urals, but the scarcity of it means
that most on the street is imported. Keep an eye out for
deeper colours and intricate patterns, and be sure to stick
to official licensed sellers. Red clay discovered in the 17th
century is another iconic natural source found here, so
keep an eye out for it. The usual books about Russian cul-
ture can also be found, with special attention paid to the
nomadic people of the Urals. If all else fails, you can still
get a bottle of vodka and a furry hat.
ROSY JANE
Football fans thirsty for an English-style pub need look
no further than The Rosy Jane. Food is also available, and
who doesn’t love a bit of a pub grub and a pint in the
afternoon?QPr. Lenina 34, tel. (+7) 343 317 18 55, www.
rosyjane.ru. Open 24hrs. PVSW
For hotels in Yekaterinburg go to www.inyourpocket.
com/yekaterinburg/hotels-hostels-ekb-en
3
9
2,5 km 12 km
2018 FIFA World Cup Russia 115
 World Cup Facts
It isn’t unusual for the eyes of the world to be on Russia,
but the summer of 2018 will see sport reign supreme over
politics (hopefully) in this world’s largest country. The FIFA
World Cup is coming to Russia, with 11 cities preparing to
host the greatest tournament in football, 32 teams vying
for the Jules Rimet trophy last held aloft by Phillipp Lahm of
Germany in Rio de Janeiro four years ago.
We’re covering the tournament in depth in terms of travel,
but what about the show itself? We’ve put together a small
list of World Cup facts for you, focusing on the obscure as
opposed to the common.
1. Russia doesn’t have a great World Cup history, it one for-
mer Russian striker does hold an interesting claim to fame.
In 1994, Oleg Salenko became the first man to win the
tournament’s Golden Boot (award for top scorer) despite
his team failing to make it out of the group stage. Salenko
scored six goals in three games, five of which came in one
match (against Cameroon). This is also a record.
2. The omens are good for the hosts, as only one team has
hosted the tournament and failed to make it out of the first
round, South Africa (2010) hold that dubious record, and
30% of host nations have gone on to win the entire thing.
The last to do so? France in 1998.
3. Only eight team have ever won the World Cup, and only
one of those failed to qualify for the 2018 edition. Poor,
poor Italy.
4. Mexico sauntered through qualification once again, but
the Central American nation remains the team to have
qualified for the World Cup the most times without man-
aging to win the tournament.
5. Fabio Capello managed Russia at the 2014 World Cup,
but was sacked a year later after poor results and perfor-
mances. Stanislav Cherchesov is the current coach, which
also bodes well from a historical standpoint. No team has
ever won the Jules Rimet trophy with a foreign manager.
6. Keep an eye on Croatia’s matches if you are interested in
disciplinary problems. There have been five red cards in Hr-
vatska’s last four World Cup matches, three for Croatia and
two for their opponents.
7. For the first time since the number of qualifiers was ex-
panded to five, all of the African participants are represent-
ing Muslim majority nations. The last time this was the case
was way back in 1986, although only two African sides took
part in that tournament.
116 Russia In Your Pocket
8. The current crop of Belgian stars are often lauded as a
golden generation, and an underachieving one at that.
This is nothing new however — Belgium have qualified for
more World Cups than any other European team without
winning the tournament.
9. The 32 captains will be dreaming of raising the Jules
Rimet trophy above their heads on July 15, but the famous
trophy itself actually spent World War II hidden underneath
the bed of Ottorino Barassi, then vice-president of FIFA.
Barassi was afraid that Hitler and the Nazis would steal the
trophy, which was a fair worry.
10. Iceland will make its World Cup debut this year, one of
two debutants alongside Panama. Europe has a thing for
debutant nations, and this is the ninth straight World Cup
to feature a first time European qualifier. The last World Cup
without one was the 1982 tournament in Spain.
11. Egypt has qualified for its first World Cup since 1990,
and the North African nation will be hoping to secure its
first win in competition history. It is the only team in the
tournament (with the exception of debutants) to never win
a World Cup finals match, drawing two and losing two of
its four matches.
12. Honduras failed to qualify for the tournament, the first
finals the Central American will miss since 2006. The nation
holds the unfortunate record for playing the most World
Cup finals matches without a single win — nine.
13. Brazil may be the only team to have qualified for every
single World Cup, but the five times winners don’t hold the
record for most matches at the tournament. That honour
goes to 2014 winners Germany, who have played 106 to
Brazil’s 104.
14. Brazil’s +119 goal difference is the best in World Cup his-
tory, but who has the worst? Mexico currently has a historical
World Cup goal difference of -35, a number only ‘bettered’ by
2002 hosts South Korea and its -36 goal difference.
15. The World Cup is almost here, but qualification began
way back in March 2015. The first match saw Timor-Leste
beat Mongolia 4-1 in an Asian qualifier, going on to win
the second leg 1-0 and taking the tie 5-1 on aggregate.
The story doesn’t end there however. Timor-Leste failed to
win any of its second round group matches, before it was
kicked out of the tournament altogether. The nation had
fielded a number of ineligible players in the match against
Mongolia, and its results were subsequently changed to
3-0 forfeiture defeats. It was too late for Mongolia to be
reinstated however.
16. Brazil qualified for the previous World Cup as hosts, and
the famous nation became the first team to successfully
qualify for the 2018 edition (with the exception of Russia,
of course). Neymar and company confirmed their qualifica-
tion way back in March 2017.
www.inyourpocket.com/russia