mySwitzerland

The Swiss holiday magazine . Summer 2015

Grand Tour of Switzerland

 Editorial

Enjoy the trip!

o you like the idea of seeing the best of Switzerland in a single scenic

D journey? Then you’ll love the Grand Tour of Switzerland. This route
will lead you 1,600 kilometres through the country’s most beautiful
regions, and will show you just how diverse, spectacular and endlessly
fascinating Switzerland is.

On the Grand Tour of Switzerland, the journey is the goal. You will travel through
four linguistic regions, over five Alpine passes, to 11 UNESCO World Heritage
Sites and two Biosphere Reserves and along 22 lakes. In short, you’ll experience
the country’s scenic and cultural highlights, strung together like pearls on a
necklace. Sebi and Paul, our ambassadors for Switzerland from many promotional
campaigns, have followed the tour and recorded their experiences in a travel
journal. We hope you enjoy reading it.

On any journey of discovery through Switzerland, there’s so much to explore and

admire. Needless to say, you don’t have to drive in order to discover the country’s
gems: the Grand Train Tour of Switzerland links the country’s finest panoramic
routes via many of its most attractive cities and resorts.

We wish you a very warm welcome and many delightful experiences on your
Grand Tour of Switzerland. Happy exploring!

Jürg Schmid
Director, Switzerland Tourism
Morning mood on the Grand Tour of Switzerland with a view of the impressive Säntis mountain range.

my Switzerland 3 Touring
 Win a Grand Tour
8 22
of Switzerland.
You could be the lucky winner of a
Grand Tour of Switzerland for two
people, spending nine days exploring
the country’s scenic beauty and
cultural variety, starting in Zurich.
The competition prize includes return
flights to Switzerland with SWISS,
an Audi A4 quattro rental car with
unlimited mileage provided by
33
Europcar, a petrol payment card with
a value of CHF 300, and eight nights’
accommodation at selected four-star
hotels along the route (including
breakfast, sharing a double room).
Good luck!
6 43
How many Alpine passes does the
Grand Tour of Switzerland cross?

3 5 12

How to enter the competition:

1. Answer the competition question
46 2. Enter online at
MySwitzerland.com/prize

10 57
 Contents

Grand Tour of Switzerland

SPECIAL

On the road with Sebi and Paul

A travel journal

8 One city, two languages Fribourg

22 Fresh adventure River Rhine
33 High road to freedom Alpine passes
43 Ride to the future Zermatt – Matterhorn
46 In the land of three suns Lavaux
57 City of living art Basel, cultural capital

SPECIAL

Impressions
Conditions of entry (excerpt): Closing date for entries:
31.10. 2015. The draw will take place on this date. Entry is free Throughout the magazine: the Grand Tour photo gallery
of charge. Multiple entries will be disqualified. A draw will be
made from entries with the correct answer, and the winner notified
SERVICE
by e-mail. Your contact details will be used by Switzerland Tourism
and possible competition partners exclusively for marketing
purposes and for the distribution of promotional material, which 62 Be our guest: hotels along the Grand Tour
you can cancel at any time. Your personal data will be treated
confidentially and will not be passed to third parties. Switzerland 64 Tips to smooth the way
Tourism reserves the right to exclude participants from the com-
petition, to disqualify multiple entries and to cancel the competition
in the event of a suspected breach of the rules. The Audi A4 quattro
66 Switzerland Tourism recommends
will be provided by Europcar at Zürich Airport. If no Audi A4 quattro
is available at the time of travel, Europcar will offer another
67 The Grand Tour at a glance
vehicle of equal value. Full conditions of entry can be seen at
MySwitzerland.com/prize. Switzerland Tourism, Tödistrasse 7,
CH-8002 Zurich.

my Switzerland 5 Touring
 Travel journal
The two of us have had a fantastic job the
past few years. We’re tourism ambassa-
dors for Switzerland, the most beautiful
country in the world – that’s what we think,
anyway.
For our holidays, we embarked on a
journey of discovery: the Grand Tour of
Switzerland. As soon as we had packed
our bags, recharged the batteries in
our cameras and got out the Grand Tour
map, we were ready to set off.
We saw, experienced and learned an
incredible amount on our tour. We found
out about traditional ways of making
cheese, for example; we drove beyond
the mountains as far as the southern
Riviera; we even got to use our rusty
school French again. We’ve written
our experiences up in our travel journal,
and would like to share it with you.
Happy reading!
Name: Sebi
Home: by Lake Lucerne
My interests: landscapes, My interests: nature, the mountain
culture and customs world, animals and folk music
my Switzerland 6 Touring
At last we’re set to go: Grand Tour of Switzerland, here we come! Our starting point:
the city of Neuchâtel 0 K M – a wonderful place. Beautiful Old Town, narrow alleys, a
lovely spot to relax. Of course, we take a little time to explore before leaving. Coffee and
croissants by the castle taste delicious. And then we’re off. At first, our route takes us
round the northern end of the lake to Mont Vully. The name makes Paul smile. With an
altitude of just 653 metres, it’s surely a hill rather than a mountain. Whatever – there’s still
a glorious view at the summit, taking in no fewer than three lakes: Lake Neuchâtel, Lake
Biel and Lake Murten. Paul admires the Alps lining the horizon, with their snow-capped
peaks. Our journey continues to the medieval town of Murten 33 K M. The views over the
lake and the roofs of the Old Town? Gorgeous! After another drive, our first day ends in
Fribourg 52 K M. It’s interesting how some people here speak French and others German.
Fribourg lies right on the border between French-speaking and German-speaking
Switzerland. Locals call the border the “Röstigraben”, the “Rösti trench”. Paul says the
name comes from the potato dish that is especially popular in German-speaking parts
of the country.
Neuchâtel
Neuchâtel’s Old Town with the
“Tour de Diesse” tower, part of the old
1
fortifications. In the background: 2
Lake Neuchâtel and the Alps at sunset.
Murten
Fribourg 3
Stage Neuchâtel – Fribourg
Distance 52 km
Highlights 1 Laténium: archaeological
Name: Paul museum and park,
UNESCO World Heritage
Home: the Muotatal valley
2 Town of Murten
3 City of Fribourg
my Switzerland 7 Touring
 Fribourg

Fribourg stands on the boundary between French-speaking

and German-speaking Switzerland. In former times, the
dividing line ran through the heart of the city, making for
a uniquely fascinating cultural mix. Gabrielle Attinger explores.

y tour of Fribourg begins tion explains; she, too, speaks French. The

M
with a surprise: Equilibre, the
city’s theatre, is a massive,
almost window-less concrete
building with upper storeys
that project way beyond the ground floor.
“Look, we can do other things, too!” it seems
to call out to visitors heading to the city centre
from the station and expecting to see medi-
eval buildings. Indeed, Fribourg – founded
by the Zähringer dynasty in the 12 th century
as a city state – is known for its beautifully
preserved Old Town. But it does offer more
– and not only architecturally.
It’s well worth taking a look inside Equili-
bre – which, despite its name, does not appear
to be in balance at all. The gigantic entrance
hall demonstrates the building’s bold concep-
tion; beside the ticket office is the tourist
office, where visitors can pick up plans of the
city and tips for their own personal tour of Fribourg.
A taste for variety
Switzerland is a multilingual
country with four official
national languages: German,
French, Italian and Romansh.
The linguistic boundary
between German- and French-
speaking Switzerland is known
as the “Röstigraben” – the
“Rösti trench”. In the mountain
village of Bivio in Graubünden,
three different languages
are spoken within a very small
area. The many dialects in
German-speaking Switzerland
vary greatly.
Webcode: 184923
Tirlibaum”, hints at a peculiarity of this part of Fribourg: it
Grand Rue – alias Reichengasse, “alley of the
rich”, one of the finest in the Old Town –
leads down towards the lower town. In former
days, this was where the German-speaking,
mostly Protestant workers and farmers lived,
while the Catholic bourgeoisie had their
homes up on high. The most famous resident
of the lower town was the Formula 1 racing
driver Jo Siffert, who died in a racing accident
at the age of 35. His friend Jean Tinguely
made a fountain in his memory; it stands in
the upper town in the Grand-Places park.
The street names clearly reveal the
boundary between upper and lower town,
between French and German: where the
Grand Rue becomes the Stalden, a residential
area dozing in the afternoon sun. The only
activity is on the terrace of the restaurant on
the Place du Petit St-Jean. Its name, “Au

One city,
My stroll through the Old Town begins a couple of hun- was here that a unique dialect arose, a mixture of Swiss
dred metres further on at the Rue de Lausanne, which also German and French called Bolze. In fact there’s a “Kiosk de
bears the German name of Lausannegasse or “Lausanne alley”. Bolze” opposite the restaurant. Everyone is speaking French,
It turns out to be more of an alley than a road: it’s pedestri- however. The square lies in a loop of the river, which French-
anised, and on Saturdays, shops set up stalls outside to sell speakers call the Sarine and German-speakers the Saane. On

two languages
their wares. Restaurants and bars also put out tables and either side of the square, a bridge spans the river: an elegant
chairs, where visitors relaxing over a coffee can tune in to the arched stone structure to the south, and a medieval covered
local linguistic mix. French clearly dominates; according to wooden bridge to the north, linking the river’s lush, tranquil
statistics, today only just over 20 per cent of the city’s popu- banks. Two lads walk past, speaking French; one is wearing a
lation speaks German. T-shirt with the words “Fier d’être Bolze” – proud to be
Words: Gabrielle Attinger Picture: Franck Auberson The Rue de Lausanne leads to the Place de l’Hôtel-de- Bolze. Does he speak Bolze, I ask? “No,” he laughs, “my father
Ville, home to the city hall as well as to one of Fribourg’s does, but we’ve only got the accent. Can you hear it?” My
many historic fountains. Nearly all are decorated with flowers, French isn’t good enough, I’m afraid, but I’ve learned that
and each one is topped by a statue of an allegorical or biblical Bolze is not just a dialect, but an accent – and above all a
figure gazing heavenwards. mentality.
Just round the corner is the cathedral of St. Nicholas, the Further upstream, the “Funi”, Switzerland’s last water-
city’s landmark. Also close by is the museum Fribourg devoted powered funicular, brings me back to the upper town. Here,
to one of its most famous residents and his partner: the Espace there’s still so much more to see: a handful of historic monas-
Jean Tinguely – Niki de Saint Phalle, with its inventive and teries, the old city walls with their towers, the Cardinal beer
wonderfully noisy works of art. “You have to press the red museum … I’ll just have to come back another time – not
pedals to make the exhibits start moving,” the woman at recep- least to hear some of that mysterious Bolze.

my Switzerland 8 Touring my Switzerland 9 Touring

Fribourg Region. The ruins of a medieval castle dominate the
small island of l’île d’Ogoz in the Lac de la Gruyère. Rolling hills, lush
meadows and idyllic villages frame the lake.
Photograph: Franck Auberson
Bern-Bernese Oberland. Dusk falls over the meadows and forests
of the hilly Emmental region, near Affoltern im Emmental. On the horizon,
the Bernese Alps catch the last rays of the setting sun.
Photograph: Terrence du Fresne, Croci & du Fresne Photography
 Travel journal

Wellness holidays for Paul and I enjoy some typical Swiss cheese for break-
fast: tangy slices of Le Gruyère and Emmentaler.
The perfect start, because today we’re travelling

palate and senses. through the regions where the cheeses are made,
from the rolling landscapes around the Lac de la
Gruyère to the valley of the Emmental. First stop:
the charming town of Gruyères 39 K M. Pretty houses,
Discover our visitor center in Buchs. window boxes full of flowers, cafés – absolutely idyllic.
More at www.chocolatfrey.ch Our route continues through the Fribourg Pre-Alps;
we pass Gstaad and drive through the Simmental
valley to Lake Thun. In the early afternoon we reach
Bern 200 K M. After a leisurely stroll through the Old
Town, we’re off again to Burgdorf 228 K M, the gateway
to the Emmental. From here, the Grand Tour leads us
up and down, through the hills, woods and valleys of
this lovely region. At the visitor dairy, we find out how
the famous Emmentaler cheese is made. We can even
have a go ourselves, and discover the secret to the
greatest mystery in the cheese world: where do the
holes come from? “It’s simple,” Johannes Sommer, the
Top: the hilltop Château de Gruyères.
cheese master, tells us. “The propionibacteria ferment Below: looking down the Kramgasse in Bern’s Old
Town to the world-famous Zytglogge clock tower.
the lactic acid and the carbohydrates, releasing
carbon dioxide which forms the holes in the cheese.”
Aha, so now we know …

Langnau im Emmental
tings,
With tas
Burgdorf
9
Bern
e
chocolat 8
g, etc.
mouldin Fribourg

4
Gruyères 6
5

Stage Fribourg – Langnau im Emmental

Frey is available in your Migros.
Distance 260 km
Highlights 4 Town of Gruyères
5 Gstaad / Saanen chalet village
6 Jungfraujoch
Say cheese! After our fascinating visit to the 7 Lake Brienz cruises
Emmental visitor dairy, we find the famous 8 Old City of Bern, UNESCO World Heritage
Emmentaler AOP tastes more delicious than ever. 9 Emmental visitor cheese dairy

my Switzerland 15 Touring
Aargau. Romantic Hallwyl Castle is one of Switzerland’s finest
moated castles. It occupies two islands in the Aabach river, close
to the northern tip of Lake Hallwil.
Photograph: Nico Schaerer
Lucerne-Lake Lucerne Region. Eroded limestone rock formations on the
Schrattenfluh in the Entlebuch UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. In the distance,
the valley around Sörenberg rises to the long ridge of the Brienzer Rothorn.
Photograph: Gerry Nitsch
 Travel journal

We say goodbye to the Emmental and set off towards Lucerne 121 K M. After a detour to
Lake Hallwil, where we admire the historic moated castle, we reach Lucerne and its lake.
The sights here are some of the most famous in Switzerland, and I want to fit in as much
as possible – especially a walk across the world-famous Chapel Bridge. But Paul has
his eyes on the mountains again. “Pilatus or Rigi?” he asks. Difficult choice, I reckon,
the views from both are meant to be breathtaking. I say Pilatus. That makes Paul happy,
because from the top of Lucerne’s local mountain, at an altitude of 2,132 metres, you can
The new Elephant Park at Zurich Zoo is one
see no fewer than 73 other dramatic Alpine peaks. We finish our drive in the historic town of many superb family attractions. For other
exciting suggestions for family activities,
of Schwyz 192 K M, in the cradle of Switzerland, and relax for the evening. What a day! see MySwitzerland.com/families.
Left: the paddle steamer “Stadt Rapperswil”
approaches the “rose town” of Rapperswil.

Schaffhausen

17

16
Zurich

Stage Schwyz – Schaffhausen Rapperswil

Distance 119 km 15

Highlights 15 Einsiedeln monastery

Schwyz
16 Grossmünster church, Zurich
17 Rhine Falls

Thanks to the Grand Tour map from

Hallwag Kümmerly + Frey, following
the route is easy.
Right: the Pilatus cog railway is the
steepest in the world.
Our next stage takes us over the high Rothenthurm plateau, one of Switzerland’s
biggest stretches of moorland, to the “rose town” of Rapperswil 34 K M on Lake Zurich.
We then follow the lakeshore to Zurich 64 K M Switzerland’s largest city has no end of
trendy bars, clubs and cinemas, we’ve heard. On the Bahnhofstrasse, you can shop
to your heart’s content – but we happily leave all that to others. Another thing they
say visitors shouldn’t miss – “Züri-Gschnätzlets”, a dish of veal cooked in mushrooms
and cream, served with Rösti potatoes – sounds much more our kind of thing.
Lucerne
Stage Langnau im Emmental – Schwyz
Fortified, we visit the new Elephant Park, which opened in Zurich Zoo in 2014. What
11 an amazing place – it makes you want to be an elephant! Paul is keen to head to the
Distance 192 km
Highlights 10 Biosphere Reserve Entlebuch, next natural wonder: the Rhine Falls near Schaffhausen 119 K M. I, too, am captivated
UNESCO-Biosphere
12 11 Hallwyl moated castle by the thundering waterfall.
10 13
Langnau im Emmental 12 Chapel Bridge, Lucerne
14
13 Pilatus
Schwyz 14 Tell Chapel, Sisikon

my Switzerland 20 Touring my Switzerland 21 Touring

 River Rhine
Fresh adventure
Words: Claudio Zemp
In summer, the young Rhine offers the ultimate in refreshment:
everything from wild swimming to blissfully relaxing river cruises
and trips to Europe’s mightiest waterfall.
his would surely make the world’s most amazing
T
shower: every second, 500 to 700 cubic metres of
water plunge a good 23 metres down the waterfall.
That must pack a punch ... The boat approaches
so close to the Rhine Falls that we’re all covered
in spray. The skipper does a tour of the plunge pool before
things get serious: this is the “swimming boat”, and to get
back to the Dachsen Rhine lido, we’re all going to swim
downstream. “When you dive in, you get marks for style,” the
skipper jokes, by way of farewell. He’s the only one who stays
on board the 17-metre boat.
my Switzerland 22 Touring
At 22 degrees, the water is refreshing. Swimming in the Rhine
is like cycling downhill: effortless and exhilarating. For once
the tyres around my tummy come in useful: they’re like flota-
tion aids, giving a little extra buoyancy. The brochure describes
this section of the river as the “Amazon of the Rhine”. The
lush greenery on the river banks does in fact suggest a jungle.
There aren’t any piranhas, thankfully, but two exotic turtles –
yellow-bellied sliders – supposedly live here. We don’t see
them, any more than we see the beavers that fell the trees at
night. The current carries us briskly downstream. We’re soon
swimming under the Nohl bridge. Shortly after, we pass an old
bunker towering out of the foliage on the left bank, from
which plucky youngsters are leaping into the water. Our
swim from the Rhine Falls plunge pool to the Dachsen river
lido lasts half an hour. It’s safe for good swimmers and the
water is virtually clean enough to drink. On busy days,
countless bathers ride the swimming boat up to the Rhine
Falls plunge pool for five francs each. The lido itself is an oasis
of tranquillity on the river. In summer, the attendant’s wife
carves tropical fruits into refreshing summer snacks.
On the river – without getting wet
Swimmers can enjoy drifting with the flow of the river a few
kilometres above the Rhine Falls, too. The best place to start
is below Diessenhofen, where the current is regular with few
eddies. The stretch between Lake Constance and Schaffhausen
is also popular for rubber-dinghy rides: there can be as many
as 1,000 people messing about in boats on hot summer days.
Both banks have plenty of attractive spots for a picnic or a dip
in the river. As the captain steers the boat carefully upstream,
slaloming against the current, you realise the skill involved.
Standing on deck, you immerse yourself mentally in this
beautiful riverscape without getting wet. The journey leads
past castles and romantic country houses. All around you hear
birdsong – otherwise nothing but the splashing of the water
and the hum of the boat’s engine. Compared with a dinghy
ride, a cruise on a scheduled boat has the advantage of
on-board catering; you can also enjoy a refreshing drink on
the upper deck. After a short stop in the picturesque town of
Stein am Rhein to admire the historic houses with their
beautiful painted facades, we take the next boat back down-
stream; in summer, the vessels cruise four times a day in each Top: the boat offers a close-up experience of the mighty Rhine Falls.
Below: Stein am Rhein is famous for its painted facades.
direction. We sail swiftly downriver. Travelling like this is
good for the soul, without unnecessary loss of adrenalin. We
glide in style over the water, and at the end of the journey,
when we disembark, we carry the spirit of the river away
with us. I can almost feel it splashing in my heart.
Refreshing experiences along the Grand Tour.
p Bern-Bernese Oberland, Lauterbrunnen: valley of waterfalls
p Geneva, Bains des Pâquis: lake lido with view of “Jet d’eau” fountain
p Jura & Three-Lakes, River Doubs: scenic canoe trip down the river
p Lucerne-Lake Lucerne Region, Lorelei: swimming islands in lake by Reuss delta
p Aargau, Lake Hallwil shore path: idyllic trail with pretty spots for swimming
p Ticino, Verzasca valley: refreshing dips in the bewitching emerald Verzasca
p Basel Region, Rhine: river crossing on a nostalgic passenger ferry
MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: BL25153
my Switzerland 23 Touring
Zurich Region. View from Zurich’s historic Schipfe district across the
River Limmat to the east bank with its historic guildhalls. The Grossmünster
church, with its two towers, is one of the city’s landmarks.
Photograph: Jan Geerk
Eastern Switzerland / Liechtenstein. The small town of Werdenberg is
formed of wooden buildings, and is the oldest of its kind in Switzerland.
The Schlangenhaus Museum (left) below the medieval castle explores the
region’s fascinating history.
Photograph: Daniel Ammann
 Travel journal

Official Partner of

s o f s h eer
00 0 m ile
1 u re .
lea s
driving p
lc o m e to Sometimes, I think to myself, it really is worth getting

We
up early. Paul and I sit on the shore of Lake Constance

q u at t ro. and enjoy the sunrise. The lake is so big, you almost

e l and of feel you’re at the seaside. We follow the road along

th the shore, leaving it at Arbon 74 K M to continue our
Grand Tour to St. Gallen 96 K M. Here we explore
the historic abbey district. “It would take you a while
to read that lot,” says my friend, as we admire the
famous abbey library with 170,000 books. Paul is in
a good mood as we continue our journey through
the hilly Appenzell region with its beautifully painted
farmhouses – we are getting closer to the mountains
again. We drive through the Toggenburg region
and down into the Rhine valley. Here we find idyllic
Werdenberg: it has only 90 residents, but it’s not
A Toggenburg farmhouse on the Schwägalp road near
a village, it’s actually one of Europe’s smallest towns. Ennetbühl, just before Nesslau-Krummenau.

At Heidi’s Village above Maienfeld 205 K M, we learn

all about the heroine of the popular children’s stories,
one of the most famous Swiss people ever. The
beautiful region is known not just as the setting for
Heidi’s adventures but also for its delicious wines.
We visit a “Torkel”, as the local wine cellars are called.
And to round off the day, we enjoy a glass of Pinot
Noir from the neighbouring vineyards.
Schaffhausen

18
Arbon

19 St. Gallen
Stage Schaffhausen – Maienfeld
20
Distance 205 km
Highlights 18 Town of Stein am Rhein
19 Abbey of St. Gallen, UNESCO World Heritage
Audi is partner of the Grand Tour of Switzerland. 20 Painted facades, Appenzell
Maienfeld
21 Swiss Tectonic Arena Sardona, UNESCO World Heritage 21 22
With the innovative quattro four-wheel-drive system
22 Heidi’s Village, Maienfeld
this fabulous route turns into an exceptional
motoring experience. quattro drive is available in
the Audi Q3 and in a further 160 Audi models.
www.audi.ch

my Switzerland 29 Touring
Graubünden. The idyllic, emerald-green Sufnersee lies
on the San Bernardino road between Thusis and the historic
Walser village of Splügen.
Photograph: Nico Schaerer
 Travel journal Alpine passes

High road
After a good night’s sleep, we leave the Rhine and head up into the side valley of the
Prättigau. We cross the Flüela Pass at 2,383 metres and descend into the valley of
the Lower Engadin. The landscape is wonderfully wild and unspoilt: not surprising,
because the Swiss National Park is just around the corner. As we climb past the village of
S-chanf 94 K M, the valley opens up. Soon after, Lake St. Moritz lies before us under a
bright blue sky. Sailing boats glide across the water. Paul notices splashes of colour in the
sky ahead: the kites of the kitesurfers on Lake Silvaplana. As we approach, we take a
closer look: it’s crazy how they skim across the waves and leap through the air. Eventually
we leave this indescribably beautiful region and head over the Julier Pass to Thusis 175 K M.
The town lies at the end of a narrow gorge, the Viamala, with cliffs 300 metres high.
to freedom Words: Markus Lehner Pictures: Mattias Nutt, Nico Schaerer

In earlier days the canyon was a genuine obstacle on the route across the Alps. Today
we negotiate the gorge via a sequence of bridges and tunnels, comfortably reaching
Splügen 200 K M.

Patrician houses of wood and stone

form the heart of the beautifully
preserved Walser village of Splügen.
Below: the route through the Viamala
gorge presented a great challenge to
travellers in former times.

Maienfeld

23

24 25
Thusis 1,600 kilometres, two motorbikes, one unforgettable
27 S-chanf
adventure: a trip on Harley-Davidsons promises the ultimate
26
Grand Tour of Switzerland. Markus Lehner reports.
Splügen

e are at Splügen in Graubünden, 1,475 metres sweeping plateaus are behind us; today, the Alps and the Ticino

W
above sea level, a few kilometres before the
steep climb to the top of the San Bernardino
Pass. It is 8 o’clock in the morning. The
Stage Maienfeld – Splügen sun, rising behind the mountain ridge to the
Distance 200 km east, has turned the summit of the 3,279-metre Piz Tambo a
Highlights 23 Mountain village of Guarda silky pink. All around us, clouds of water vapour rise from
24 Swiss National Park
the high meadows and pastures after the night’s storms; a
25 Benedictine convent of St. John, Müstair,
UNESCO World Heritage wonderful cocktail of natural aromas fills the air, a blend that
26 Muottas Muragl panoramic peak even a master chef could not match. Dietmar and I climb on
27 Rhaetian Railway’s Albula/Bernina line,
the powerful Harley-Davidson motorcycles that are taking us
UNESCO World Heritage
on the Grand Tour of Switzerland. The big cities and the
region are on the menu. Freedom, here we come!
Riding Harleys is Dietmar’s passion. Mid-fifties, well-built,
broad-shouldered and with salt-and-pepper hair, he has
travelled halfway around the world on his American “freedom
machines” – and turned his hobby into a career. The former
marketing executive now owns a respected Harley-Davidson
dealership in the centre of Zurich. With a big grin, Dietmar
presses a switch on the handlebars of his orange-silver Electra
Glide Ultra Classic. “Born to be wild” by Steppenwolf, the
ultimate song of the Easy Rider generation, plays from the
motorbike’s four loudspeakers with the quality of a home ➝

my Switzerland 32 Touring my Switzerland 33 Touring


hi-fi. “No stopping us now,” laughs Dietmar, as he sets off.
My very slightly less luxurious Harley-Davidson Road King
unfortunately has no stereo. But if I could yodel, I would right
now …
Camaraderie of the open road
Without rushing – a Harley is a pleasure machine, not a racer –
we thread our way up the countless hairpin bends of the nar-
row road to the San Bernardino Pass at 2,065 metres. When
we reach the summit, shivering slightly but exhilarated by the
ride, the distant views and the beautiful colours, we stop for a
coffee. We immediately bump into other motorbike riders
and even cyclists: in half an hour, we chat in five different lan-
guages with other two-wheeled travellers. A 70-year veteran
cyclist from northern Germany with a weather-beaten face
proudly shows us a document with an official seal. “I have to go
to Rome,” he says, “this paper’s an invitation to an audience
with the Pope.”
For our part, we won’t be going as far as Rome – just to
Locarno in Ticino, in the sunny south of Switzerland. Within
a few dozen kilometres, we drop nearly 1,800 vertical metres
as we glide down towards Bellinzona on the spectacular twist-
ing road through the Italian-speaking Mesolcina valley, which
welcomes us with sizzling summer temperatures of more than
30 degrees. We pack our thick pullovers into the saddlebags
and change into lighter summer biking outfits. At around
midday we reach Locarno – together with Lugano, officially
my Switzerland 34 Touring
the warmest place in Switzerland – and stop to enjoy one of
the incomparable ice creams. “Pistachio for me,” says Diet-
mar, “anything else would be sacrilege.”
High thrills on the twisting Tremola
Despite the hot summer temperatures, we don’t change into
our swimming trunks for a refreshing dip in Lake Maggiore.
Instead we put our helmet and gloves back on and head north-
wards up the Leventina valley, where one of the most thrilling
and impressive of Europe’s pass routes awaits us: the Tremola.
Built in the early-19 th century and resurfaced between 1937
and 1941 with hundreds of thousands of small square blocks
of granite, the road twists in a sequence of tight hairpin bends
from Airolo up to the top of the Gotthard Pass at an altitude
of 2,106 metres. Today, this engineering marvel is of interest
Grand Tour Songs.
A cool soundtrack makes the Grand
Tour of Switzerland even more fun.
How about:
Born to be wild – Steppenwolf
Mustang Sally – Wilson Pickett
Ramblin’ Man – Allman Brothers Band
On the road again – Willie Nelson
Long white Cadillac – Dwight Yoakam
Hot blooded – Foreigner
Radar love – Golden Earring
The trip along the Tremola, which leads from Airolo in the south up to the Gotthard Pass
in a sequence of spectacular hairpin bends, is breathtaking. The road is regarded as
Switzerland’s longest monument.
primarily to tourists: most of the traffic crossing the Alps here In front of the hotel, I listen – tired but happy after the day’s
now rolls through the 17-kilometre Gotthard tunnel way adventures – to the characteristic crackling sound of the
below. The Tremola’s paved surface and its many twists and engines as they cool. Dietmar walks over, pats me on the back
turns promise a memorable ride or drive for every traveller. and says with a grin: “If there had been motorbikes in
When we reach the summit, we stop for a sausage by way of William Tell’s day, I know how he would have gained his
celebration. freedom …”
As the sun slowly sinks towards the horizon, it bathes the
dramatic mountain scenery in a warm evening glow. We motor
down the Gotthard towards Realp, the next overnight stop on Experience the Grand Tour in grand style:
our Grand Tour of Switzerland. Tomorrow, we look forward visit the website below and click on > Try a bike > Rent a Harley
to the Furka Pass, the Valais and other magnificent sights. www.harley-davidson.ch
Some of the most breathtaking sections of the Grand Tour.
p Bern-Bernese Oberland, Neuhaus – Oberhofen: along Lake Thun, with view of the soaring Niesen
p Lucerne-Lake Lucerne Region, Greppen – Beckenried: with car-ferry ride across the lake
p Fribourg Region, La Sauge – Sugiez: over Mont Vully, with views of the Three-Lakes Region
p Lake Geneva Region, Vich – Le Brassus: over the Jura heights into the Vallée de Joux
p Valais, Vétroz – Saillon: through vineyards and typical Valais winemaking villages
MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: BO25153
my Switzerland 35 Touring
 Travel journal

One country. The Brissago islands are located in the Swiss part of Lake

One ticket. Maggiore. The larger of the two islands is home to a botanical
garden where many species of subtropical plants flourish.

Soon after Splügen 0 KM we head over the San Bernardino Pass. From a long way off we
can make out the castles of Ticino’s capital, Bellinzona 73 KM. In the Middle Ages, these
formed a mighty barrier across the valley, designed to prevent invaders from penetrating
south. Luckily times have changed, and today visitors from the north are welcome guests.
Soon after, we reach Ascona 94 KM, where we stroll along the lake promenade. The
sunshine sparkles on Lake Maggiore, and the palms rustle in the breeze. We enjoy what
locals call “dolce far niente” – blissful idleness – and tuck into a delicious “pasta fatta in
casa”. Paul and I don’t speak any Italian, but people are happy when we greet them with
a “Buongiorno”. Afterwards we go for a dip in the lake and relax in the sun. The afternoon
passes quickly, as does the warm summer evening in a traditional “grotto” restaurant
with chicken, polenta and a tasty Merlot. Tomorrow we’re giving ourselves a rest day here
in the lovely south. We’ll go on an excursion to Lugano and find a sunny spot by the lake
to relax. Needless to say, we won’t be writing!

Splügen

Stage Splügen – Ascona

28
Bellinzona Distance 94 km
29
Highlights 28 Three castles of Bellinzona, UNESCO World Heritage
Ascona-Locarno 29 Ascona lake promenade
30 30 Monte Brè Lugano
Discover Switzerland with the Swiss Travel Pass. For the best experiences by train, 31 31 Monte San Giorgio, UNESCO World Heritage
bus and boat – SwissTravelSystem.com

my Switzerland 37 Touring
Ticino. Seen from Ascona’s beautiful main piazza, Lake
Maggiore sparkles in the light of the low afternoon sun.
Photograph: Markus Bühler
Valais. The setting sun bathes the mountains along the Rhone valley in
a golden light. The village of Salgesch and the town of Sierre lie in the
background; to the left is the Pfyn-Finges Nature Park, the first in the Valais.
Photograph: Christian Pfammatter, Visp
 Travel journal Zermatt – Matterhorn

Today is full of ups and downs. We have only just done the Gotthard Pass when the next
climb begins at Realp 108 KM – to the Furka Pass leading into the Valais. The summit
is also the highest point of our Grand Tour: 2,429 metres above sea level. On the drive
down the far side, we see so many mountains that not even Paul knows all their names.
In the peaceful valley below, the Goms, the villages consist of wooden chalets and
barns, blackened by the sun, huddled around the village church. After Fiesch 160 KM we
reach the cable car stations for Bettmeralp and Riederalp. We’ve heard that the view up
there of the Aletsch Glacier is breathtaking. Of course, we want to see the biggest glacier
in the Alps with our own eyes. We glide up in a cable car, and soon we’re standing in
front of the spectacular river of ice. Inspired by yet another unforgettable experience,
we continue to Visp 186 KM. We then drive up the narrow and wild Matter valley through
a string of pretty villages until we reach the car park in Täsch 217 KM. Our destination,
Zermatt 223 KM, is car-free, and the only way there is by train. This takes us in just
over ten minutes to the resort at the foot of the Matterhorn. Paul can’t wait to see the
“Horu”, as locals call the mountain, for real.

Ride to the future Words: Lucas Roos

No question about it: Zermatt has an unmistakable trademark.

It’s 4,478 metres high, shaped like a pyramid and is called
the Matterhorn. But there’s also another: it’s two metres high,
shaped like a box, and locals call it the “Elektromobil”.

he streets and alleys of the car-free mountain resort for means of transport to carry guests and goods continues to

T
of Zermatt are narrow, perfect for a leisurely stroll.
In the Upper Goms, the valley of the young All the more so because pedestrians have priority
Rhone, the route leads through typical
Valais villages such as Reckingen (right). The
over vehicles, thanks to Article 3 of the munici-
mountain views are spectacular throughout. pality’s traffic regulations. Here, pedestrians rule
the streets, and the electric vehicles are mere vassals. The first
“Elektromobil” is said to have appeared as far back as 1947. In
those days, horse-drawn carriages were common: before the
boom in electric vehicles in the 1970s, the resort boasted about
Stage Ascona – Zermatt Realp 40 single-horse carriages and four two-horse carriages. Today,
Distance 223 km 32 there are just two of each, mainly serving as a tourist attraction.
Highlights 32 Tremola, old Gotthard Pass road 33 Fiesch The Zermatt Elektromobil is manufactured in the resort,
33 Swiss Alps Jungfrau-Aletsch,
Ascona-Locarno
and each is a one-off. The vehicle’s most striking feature is its
UNESCO World Heritage
34 Matterhorn Visp
characteristic box shape. The dimensions are specified by the
34
municipality: 1.4 metres wide, four metres long and two metres
high. As their number has grown, the vehicles have become
Täsch
Zermatt an emblem of the resort at the foot of the Matterhorn as well
as a symbol of eco-friendly mobility. And while the mountains
form a natural limit to Zermatt’s route network, the demand
grow. During six to eight weeks of the year, the number of
people in the resort can rise to 30,000 – not including day-
trippers. To accommodate them, a good 500 electric vehicles
are permitted in the resort, including about 40 taxis.
In 2015, Zermatt is celebrating the 150 th anniversary of
the first ascent of the Matterhorn. It’s the ideal occasion to
visit the resort and enjoy the many special events – and also
have a ride on an original Zermatt Elektromobil. For some-
thing a little more romantic, with just one horsepower, visitors
can summon Werner Imboden, brother of the Elektromobil
makers. He has been carrying guests on his one-horse carriage
through the Matterhorn village for decades, to a charming
soundtrack of clip-clopping hooves and ringing bells.
Celebrate the king of mountains with Zermatt: events to
commemorate the first ascent of the last 4,000-metre Alpine
summit to be conquered are taking place all year.
For information, see www.zermatt.ch/150.

my Switzerland 42 Touring my Switzerland 43 Touring

 Travel journal

We make sure you

experience Switzerland
before you even arrive.
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airline shows you what makes it so unique. We ensure that Swiss quality never remains just a
ceb`\fX!G[Ta^fgbbhecXefbaT_fXei\VXXkVX__XageXZ\baT_Vh\f\aXTaWjTe`[bfc\gT_\gl.lbhe
Swiss holiday starts with us.
The Matterhorn in the red light of dawn was a magnificent
magnific sight, one we won’t forget
quickly. Back in the wide Rhone valley, we see more and more vineyards as we head
west: after all, the sunny Valais is Switzerland’s biggest winemaking area. We make
out the landmarks of the city of Sion 77 KM – two dramatic rocky outcrops, each topped
by a castle – from a long way off. Further on, the valley makes a sudden right-angle
turn; soon after, in the charming town of Saint-Maurice 121 KM, we stop at the abbey
dating from AD 515 and admire one of Europe’s finest ecclesiastical treasures. We visit
the proud castle and explore the “fairies’ grotto” deep inside the mountain, and are
enchanted by the subterranean lake. Further on, yet another castle greets us: the
fairy-tale Château de Chillon on the shore of Lake Geneva. What can we say, other
than: welcome to the Vaud Riviera! After so many castles, we are beginning to feel
like kings – so we are more than happy to spend a night in this majestic region.

The Château de Chillon perches on a rocky

island just off the shore of Lake Geneva.
The fairy-tale castle is Switzerland’s most
visited historical building.

Lausanne

38
37

Saint-Maurice 36
Sion 35

Zermatt

Stage Zermatt – Lausanne

Distance 178 km (from Täsch)
Highlights 35 Mountain village of Grimentz
36 Abbey of Saint-Maurice
37 Château de Chillon, Montreux
38 Lavaux terraced vineyards,
UNESCO World Heritage

my Switzerland 45 Touring
 Lavaux

The winemaking village of Rivaz above Lake Geneva is the smallest municipality in canton

In the land
Vaud. Harvesting the grapes on the steep terraced vineyards of Lavaux is still tough work.

of three suns Words: Lisa Inglin

The region of Lavaux, with its terraced vineyards, is one of
Switzerland’s most charming UNESCO World Heritage Sites. A walk
from St-Saphorin to Cully promises picturesque villages, welcoming
wine cellars and ever-changing views over Lake Geneva.
he first steps lead straight into the Middle Ages:
According to the signposts, the walk from here to Cully takes
heart of the village of Rivaz. The road is called En Bons-
Voisins. “It’s actually a wonderful community,” says the wine-
maker, “we often organise celebrations.” The Chappuis fam-
ily has been making wine for generations; the family tree on
the wall extends back to 1335. “We look after a piece of cul-
tural heritage,” Chappuis says. “That’s a privilege, but it also
carries obligations.” He and his wife have three daughters and
hope that the tradition will continue. They grow different
grape varieties, but mainly Chasselas. Chappuis waxes lyrical
about the “Queen of grapes”: he says it’s “delicate in aroma,
versatile and offers plenty of leeway during vinification.” The
wine matures in oak barrels in the cellar. “Frost, rain, hail –
anything can happen until you finally get the wine in the bar-
rel,” says Chappuis. The end of the harvest, then, is a moment
to celebrate, when growers are rewarded for their efforts.
Chappuis’ 18 plots of land lie in a wide radius around Rivaz.
smaller and more scattered,” he says. Thanks to the varied lo-
cations, however, he can produce wines with a broad palette
of flavours.
The grapes for his flagship wine, the Dézaley Grand Cru,
grow to the west of Rivaz. Here, the terrain is very steep, and
the path leads almost directly above the lake. The sunshine is
that much more intense. Walkers can feel the “three suns” of
Lavaux, which fill the grapes with flavour: the direct sunlight,
the reflection of the sun’s rays on the surface of the lake, and
the warmth radiated from the stone walls. The conditions
seem to suit the lizards, and the pink snapdragons growing in
the cracks of the walls are full of flower. A short climb leads
to the winemaking village of Epesses. The sweeping views
extend across Lake Geneva far into France; the village of
Cully lower down appears more modern and busier. Looking
back, I see once again the beautiful pattern of small terraces

T
along narrow alleys, up steep flights of steps
and through stone archways. The walk through
the UNESCO World Heritage Site begins at
St-Saphorin. The houses extend up the steep
slope from the lakeshore, closely huddled together to keep
the precious land free for winegrowing. The village has
retained its historic charm beautifully: here a lantern over a
gateway, there a wooden arcade leading to an annex. The
church of St. Symphorian, with its imposing bell tower,
dominates the centre of the village. The wind rustles the
leaves of the poplar in front of the church, which gives the
square its name: Place du Peuplier. It’s home to a wine bar
and the well-known Auberge de l’Onde. The atmosphere is
peaceful: the fountain splashes quietly as swallows swoop over
the tiled roofs and village boys kick a ball around.
an hour and a half. The lane leads me into the heart of “Before the fusion of plots in the 1980s, they were even and neat vines: the perfect interplay of culture and nature.
Lavaux, through the terraced vineyards. Lake Geneva stretches
out below in the haze; high up, the last snowfields sparkle on
the summits of the Valais peaks. The terraces are mostly narrow
and small; some are barely larger than a living room. Bright Other UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
retaining walls up to three metres high keep the earth in
place. It was the construction of these walls that first made it p Swiss Tectonic Arena Sardona: secrets of how the Alps were formed
possible to grow vines on this steep terrain. And that is what
is special about this landscape: it was shaped laboriously over p La Chaux-de-Fonds / Le Locle: town planning and watchmaking
centuries by human hand. Nevertheless, the vineyards, lanes, p Monte San Giorgio: Switzerland’s fossil mountain on the shores of Lake Lugano
villages and hills form a harmonious whole, as if created by an
artist. I notice there’s often a rosebush flowering at the end of p Rhaetian Railway’s Albula / Bernina line: one of the world’s most spectacular train journeys
a row of vines. “Roses are excellent indicators of fungal at-
tack,” the winemaker Christophe Chappuis tells me in the MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: BC25153
tasting room of his magnificent winegrower’s house in the

my Switzerland 46 Touring my Switzerland 47 Touring

Lake Geneva Region. View over Lake Geneva from near the village of
Villette among the terraced vineyards of Lavaux, a UNESCO World Heritage
Site. A paddle steamer from the belle époque is approaching its next stop.
Photograph: Nico Schaerer
 Travel journal

St-Ursanne
I have to say
say, the terraced vineyards above Lake Geneva are a wonderful sight. And the
Saignelégier
French spoken here, it’s so melodic – somehow more charming than our own guttural 43

Swiss German. We make a detour to Geneva 80 KM, international city and home of the UN,
and are rewarded with a view of the mighty “Jet d’eau” fountain. The water jet shoots 42
Neuchâtel
about 140 metres up into the sky; it’s even illuminated at night. We spot all kinds of boats
41
on the lake, from luxurious yachts to paddle steamers from the belle époque. Of course, Yverdon-les-Bains

that makes us want to head out on the water, too, so to round off our visit to Geneva
we join a river cruise on the Rhone. Back on the Grand Tour, the views over Lake Geneva
are fantastic. Paul even recognises Mont Blanc in the distance, the highest peak in the
Alps. After climbing up to the Col du Marchairuz, we drive through the beautiful rolling
heights and sparse forests of the Jura. At the end of this magnificent stage, we reach
Yverdon-les-Bains 193 KM at the western end of Lake Neuchâtel.
Stage Yverdon-les-Bains – St-Ursanne
Distance 145 km
Highlights 41 Creux du Van rock amphitheatre
42 La Chaux-de-Fonds /Le Locle Town
Planning & Watchmaking,
UNESCO World Heritage
The Doubs Nature Park (above: Etang de la Gruère) and the 43 Town of St-Ursanne
neighbouring Chasseral Nature Park are two of 20 national
The Jura Route from Basel to Nyon
and regional parks throughout Switzerland. They are notable
is n°. 7 of SwitzerlandMobility’s nine
for their rich natural and cultural heritage and sustainable
national long-distance cycle routes.
use of resources. MySwitzerland.com/ecotourism
For more on these superb rides, see
MySwitzerland.com/outdoor.

Above: The Jet d’eau fountain, Geneva’s

landmark, is a highlight of any visit.
Right: Lausanne enjoys a scenic location
above Lake Geneva, with views of the
snow-capped Savoie Alps.
Stage Lausanne – Geneva – Yverdon-les-Bains
Distance 193 km
Highlights 39 Olympic Museum, Lausanne
40 Jet d’eau, Geneva
The last-but-one day of our Grand Tour leads us through the Val de Travers and back
to Lake Neuchâtel. Soon after, we reach the starting point of our whole adventure,
Neuchâtel 67 KM. But we haven’t finished yet – our journey is going to continue through
the Jura as far as Basel. First, we head over a pass called the “Vue des Alpes” and on to
Saignelégier 117 KM. Here we are in the middle of the Doubs Nature Park, which adjoins
the Chasseral Nature Park. To experience this pristine landscape close-up, we set off
on foot along a path to a small moorland lake in the Doubs Nature Park: the Etang de
Yverdon-les-Bains
la Gruère. The gentle walk via Les Cerlatez to La Theurre takes us a good hour. At the
lake we pause for a while and enjoy the idyllic tranquillity. On the walk back, we come
across more and more cyclists. You can actually cycle from here all the way to Basel,
39
but to do that the two of us would have to get into shape first. So instead we just enjoy
Geneva
a short and leisurely ride on a pair of Flyer electric bikes, before continuing our journey
40
towards Basel by car.
Lausanne

my Switzerland 50 Touring my Switzerland 51 Touring

Geneva. The southern tip of Lake Geneva, where the River Rhone flows
out of the lake, boasts some of Switzerland’s most desirable residential
districts as well as the Jet d’eau fountain, the city’s landmark.
Photograph: Jean-Jacques Steiner, Geneva Tourism
Jura & Three-Lakes. The Etang de la Gruère is a moorland lake and
nature reserve located between Tramelan and Saignelégier on the high
plateau of the Franches-Montagnes.
Photograph: Roland Gerth
 Travel journal Basel, cultural capital

The river trout we had for dinner yesterday in the medieval town of St-Ursanne 0 KM
is highly recommended – the best we’ve ever eaten! It probably came straight from
the Doubs. We’ve crossed the stately river via an old stone bridge with four arches to
admire the town’s elegant 14 th- and 16 th-century houses from the far side. Today, sadly,
is the last day of our Grand Tour of Switzerland. Soon we’ll be at our final destination –
but not just yet. We drive to the historic town of Delémont 20 KM and continue through
the meadows and forests of the rolling Jura before reaching the final climb of our trip:
up to the Chall Pass, just 747 metres above sea level. Despite its modest altitude,
we enjoy sweeping views over the Alsace and the city of Basel 72 KM. Here, close
to the borders with France and Germany, we finish our Grand Tour of Switzerland –
and a wonderful journey of discovery.

City of living art Words: Nicole Althaus

Basel is a fountain of creativity: visitors encounter

art at every turn, as well as the greatest
The picturesque medieval town of St-Ursanne; concentration of museums of any European city.
the arched bridge across the River Doubs was built in 1728.

ities are not strings of facts and descriptions, even works for the city. It was the first and last time anywhere in

C
Basel if guide books like to present them that way.
Delémont 44 Nor are they merely the sum of historical events
St-Ursanne or numbers, however impressive these may be. A
city is more like a poem or a story: each has its
own rhythm, its own special atmosphere.
Stage St-Ursanne – Basel In Basel, this story begins with a man in financial straits
Distance 72 km who felt obliged to sell his Picassos, which were hanging in
Highlights 44 Basel, city of culture the Kunstmuseum art museum on loan. There was a public
outcry, and young local people organised a legendary campaign
with the slogan “All you need is Pablo” – the year was 1967 –
to encourage residents to vote in favour of a credit to buy the
the world that an artist’s pictures have been bought at the ballot
box. A football stadium or a motorway? Certainly. But art?
The elderly Pablo Picasso had followed events from his
home in the south of France, and the people of Basel’s attach-
ment to art touched him so much that he gave them four
further works for their Kunstmuseum. Today, as a result, a
visit to two of the city’s museums – the Kunstmuseum and
the Fondation Beyeler, which between them own 33 master-
pieces by the artist – will give an experience of every one of
his creative periods. To achieve this in another way, a Picasso
enthusiast would have to travel to one of the few major ➝

my Switzerland 56 Touring my Switzerland 57 Touring

Basel Region. Late-afternoon view across the Rhine to the Old Town
of Grossbasel with the Mittlere Brücke bridge and the Martinskirche,
said to be the city’s oldest parish church.
Photograph: Christoph Gysin
 Travel journal

cities around the world still able to afford to stage one of the
artist’s rare retrospectives.
Art clearly sets the tone in Basel, as visitors notice every-
where. Take the Fondation Beyeler, for example, designed by
the leading architect Renzo Piano: relax in the gardens after
seeing an exhibition, let your eyes rest on the pond with its
water lilies, and you suddenly have the feeling you’re sitting
in a painting by Monet. Or take a seat on the Theaterplatz
beside the Tinguely fountain, and take in the scene as you sip
a coffee: watch the water spray and splash around the moving
sculptures, and see how the theatrical spectacle enchants
children and adults alike. Afterwards, as you stroll through the
city’s streets, you’ll stumble across a variety of works. The
“Intersection” by the American sculptor Richard Serra, for
example, two massive sails of steel that you can walk in and
around, a gift to the city from private benefactors. Or the
“Moon Ladder” by René Küng, which stretches delicately yet
boldly up into the open sky, suggesting you could touch the
clouds if only you climb high enough. And naturally there’s
the “Giardino all’italiana” in which Luciano Fabro has ripped
up the stone paving, as if creating a field in the heart of the
city, making trees into sculptures. Where does nature end,
where does art begin?
This is a question many visitors ask themselves in Basel.
Or rather: where does the city end and where does art begin?
Basel has more than 40 museums in an area of just 37 square
kilometres, the greatest concentration of museums of any city
in Europe. Sam Keller, former director of Art Basel and now
director of the Fondation Beyeler, puts the city’s special quality
in a nutshell: “While other cities discuss how much art is good
for them and whether art deserves public support, art forms
part of Basel’s DNA.” Art is as much part of the fabric of the
city as is the River Rhine: it is more than an intellectual exer-
cise or something to marvel at, it is a daily encounter, a source
of inspiration in the heart of the city. And this special quality
is something that even the youngest visitors notice: especially
on a trip to the Tinguely Museum across the river. Here,
Our journey of discovery through Switzer-
land is something we’ll never forget.
What an incredible variety of landscapes,
mountain views and lakes! Then there’s
all the linguistic and cultural diversity …
and what an amazing concentration of
sights and attractions! We’ve seen and
experienced an unbelievable amount
on the tour – but by no means everything.
So we’ll definitely be back to explore in
more detail. After all, the end of a tour
is just the start to planning the next one.
Perhaps already next year. And maybe
we’ll bump into you, too, on the Grand
Tour. We look forward to it!
The Fondation Beyeler houses one of the world’s finest collections of
modern and contemporary art, with about 200 works by 40 artists.
children are so captivated by the exhibits that they forget time
altogether – and with it, the idea that museums are boring.
By the time you take the little ferry back across the river
at dusk and climb the steps to the cathedral, you have under-
stood the spirit of the city, you can feel its rhythm. In Basel,
art is not a list of famous names, even when this is long and
impressive and a worthy match for almost any of the world’s
capitals. Rather, it is the beating heart of the city itself.

Impressive museums along the Grand Tour.

p Bern, Zentrum Paul Klee: masterpieces by Klee in a spectacular building by Renzo Piano
p Winterthur, Fotomuseum: one of Europe’s most innovative centres for photography
p Geneva, Mamco: Switzerland’s largest museum of contemporary art
p Zurich, Kunsthaus: one of the most important Swiss collections of modern art
p Martigny, Fondation Pierre Gianadda: art, archaeology and a fine sculpture park
p Aarau, Aargauer Kunsthaus: young artists in a stylish extension by Herzog & de Meuron

MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: BM25153

my Switzerland 60 Touring my Switzerland 61 Touring

 Be our guest Hotels along the Grand Tour

Pick of the pit stops. Villa Orselina Ö

Orselina-Locarno, Ticino
After an eventful day of touring, you’ll appreciate a welcoming hotel where
Located high above Locarno, sunny Villa Orselina charms guests
you can relax in comfort, dine in style and relive the day’s adventures. with its stylish rooms, glorious views over Lake Maggiore, outdoor
pool set in lush grounds and its own tennis court. The modern spa
The hotels on these pages are perfect: ideally located at key sites along offers a wide range of tempting treatments; Grand Tour guests can
look forward to a soothing 20-minute neck massage, free of charge.
the Grand Tour, each one has a special treat in store for touring guests.
5 www.villaorselina.ch

Gstaad Palace Ä Hotel Landhaus Ô

Gstaad, Bern-Bernese Oberland
Towering over Gstaad like a castle, this incomparable luxury hotel
offers breathtaking views over the mountains and valley. The exclusive
spa is the ideal place to relax after a long drive. Guests on a Grand
Tour also receive a hiking map from the concierge with personal tips;
staff will wash the car windows ready for the next stage of the journey.
Münster-Geschinen, Valais
This comfortable and friendly hotel, built in traditional chalet style with
spacious lawns and a lush natural setting, is run by the owning family.
The restaurant serves local specialities and exclusively Valais wines.
Guests on the Grand Tour will appreciate the warm fleece blanket on a
visit to the ice grotto in the Rhone Glacier.

1 www.palace.ch 6 www.landhaus-muenster.ch

Seerose Resort & SpaÕ Grand Hôtel du Lac Ä

Meisterschwanden, Aargau Vevey, Lake Geneva Region
This stylish hotel on the shore of Lake Hallwil lies beside a nature Built in art nouveau style on the shore of Lake Geneva, this gem of a
reserve. The welcoming Cocon Thai Spa combines traditional Thai hotel boasts a large garden with swimming pool, an attractive spa and
treatments with modern design; various restaurants serve delicious gourmet cuisine featuring typical dishes and wines from the region.
Thai and other specialities. Touring guests receive a snack for the Grand Tour guests will set off again with a sparkling windscreen and a
road with regional products such as apple juice and an energy bar. cool music CD, “Grand Hôtel du Lac”, for the road.

2 www.seerose.ch 7 www.ghdl.ch

Campus Hotel Hertenstein Õ Der Teufelhof BaselÃ

Weggis, Lucerne-Lake Lucerne Region Basel, Basel Region
Thanks to the hotel’s superb location on Lake Lucerne, guests enjoy The welcoming Teufelhof is one of the city’s most innovative cultural
glorious views of the lake and mountains from their stylish rooms. and social venues, combining hotels, restaurants, theatre and art
Attractions include the lakeside sunbathing lawn, the nature trail through all under one roof. It lies in the heart of the Old Town, and consists
the grounds, and pedalos and a kayak for guests’ use. Everyone on the of two connected 18 th-century houses. Guests on the Grand Tour
Grand Tour receives a welcome drink with a cheese-and-meat platter. receive a pack of sweet goodies and a fresh drink for the road.

3 www.campus-hotel-hertenstein.ch 8 www.teufelhof.com

Capricorns
Wergenstein, Graubünden 8
The name of this hotel refers to the local celebrities: a colony of ibex, 2
the emblematic mountain goat of the Alps, lives nearby. The location Discover other relaxing hotels for touring: 3
is superb, the views are glorious. The Restaurant Capricorns serves Webcode: 69133 4
creative cuisine from the region. Grand Tourers receive a Capricorns 7 1 6
lunch snack for the road containing tasty local products. 5
4 www.capricorns.ch

my Switzerland 62 Touring my Switzerland 63 Touring

 Tips to smooth the way

Explore and enjoy. Get advice and book.

With is endless scenic diversity, Switzerland seems to be made With our extensive knowledge of Switzerland,
for touring. Whether you opt for a cool convertible, a powerful we can help you plan the best possible holiday.
motorbike or a comfortable train, you’ll find the following offers Call: 00800 100 200 30 (international toll-free*)
promise an unforgettable journey of discovery. * Local charges may apply.

Grand Train Tour Travel in comfort

The Grand Train Tour of Switzerland links Switzerland’s most beautiful scenic routes. Tips and information about travelling to Switzerland. Whether you plan to come by plane,
These panoramic journeys include sections by bus and boat as well as by train and can train or car, Switzerland has the best possible international connections.
be enjoyed year-round.
p MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 25321
p MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 67715

Grand Tour package Enjoy the ride

Enjoy the Grand Tour over nine days: book a package including all hotel accommodation Travel in comfort and enjoy every moment of the journey. A well-served public
in the category of your choice, with or without hire car. Take advantage of special deals transport network makes exploring Switzerland fun – and offers total flexibility.
at the official Grand Tour hotels and benefit from comprehensive travel documentation.
p MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 25349
p Telephone 00800 100 200 30
p MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 213022

Grand Tour map Find accommodation

and . 1 : 275 000
Schweiz . Switzerl

The special road map from Hallwag Kümmerly + Frey with marked route is the ideal From stylish spa hotels to authentic mountain inns and rural farms,
ap
Touring Map
travel companion on the Grand Tour of Switzerland. the choice of accommodation in Switzerland is vast. Booking is quick and easy.
GRAND TOdUR
of Switzerlan p MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 211695 p MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 25384

Harley-Davidson Judge for yourself

Experience the ultimate riding adventure with Harley-Davidson® Authorized Rentals. Find out about a hotel quickly and easily from personal ratings.
Whatever your plans – anything from a day trip to a journey of several weeks – you can After your stay, post your own rating – and help maintain the high standard of
book the latest Harley-Davidson® models quickly and easily online. Swiss hospitality.

p MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 210968 p MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 9874

Europcar Stay informed

Europcar is Switzerland’s no. 1 car rental company. More than 80 rental locations have
up to 4,500 vehicles ready. From small cars to people carriers, from luxury limousines to
off-road vehicles and from convertibles to 4x4s, we have the right rental car for every need.
p MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 324243
Interested in Swiss current affairs? Visit our news and info website for the latest
on Swiss politics, society, culture, the economy and science – in ten languages.
p www.swissinfo.ch

my Switzerland 64 Touring my Switzerland 65 Touring

 Switzerland Tourism recommends Digital Switzerland

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my Switzerland 66 Touring
 The Grand Tour at a glance

River Rhine
Fresh adventure
Pages 22–23
Basel, cultural capital
al
City of living art 1 Laténium: archaeological
Pages 57–60 museum and park
2 Town of Murten
3 City of Fribourg
4 Town of Gruyères
17 18 5 Gstaad / Saanen chalet village
44 6 Jungfraujoch
7 Lake Brienz cruises
8 Old City of Bern
9 Emmental visitor cheese dairy
19 10
Fribourg Biosphere Reserve Entlebuch
One city, two languages 43 16 20 11 Hallwyl moated castle
11 12 Chapel Bridge, Lucerne
Pages 8–9
13 Pilatus
14 Tell Chapel, Sisikon
15 15 Einsiedeln monastery
42 16 Grossmünster church, Zurich
9
12 17 Rhine Falls
1 10 22 18 Town of Stein am Rhein
8 13 14 21 19
2 Abbey of St. Gallen
41 20 Painted facades, Appenzell
21 Swiss Tectonic Arena Sardona
23
3 22 Heidi’s Village, Maienfeld
23 Mountain village of Guarda
7
24 Swiss National Park
24
27 25 Benedictine convent of
25
St. John, Müstair
4
32 26 Muottas Muragl panoramic peak
39 6 26
38 27 Albula / Bernina railway line
5 33
Lavaux 28 Three castles of Bellinzona
In the land of three suns 37 29 Ascona lake promenade
30 Monte Brè Lugano
Pages 46–47
31 Monte San Giorgio
32 Tremola, old Gotthard
40 36 28
Pass road
35 29 33 Swiss Alps Jungfrau-Aletsch
34 Matterhorn
35 Mountain village of Grimentz
30 36 Abbey of Saint-Maurice
34
31 37 Château de Chillon, Montreux
38 Lavaux terraced vineyards
39 Olympic Museum, Lausanne
40 Jet d’eau, Geneva
41 Creux du Van rock amphitheatre
42 La Chaux-de-Fonds / Le Locle
Zermatt – Matterhorn Alpine passes Town Planning & Watchmaking
Ride to the future High road to freedom 43 Town of St-Ursanne
44 Basel, city of culture
Page 43 Pages 33–35
UNESCO World Heritage

0 20 40 km
The Grand Tour of Switzerland is a suggested route that makes use of the existing Swiss road network. Visitors follow the route at their own risk. Switzerland Tourism and Grand Tour of Switzerland Motorway Main road Railway Car transport by rail Airport
the Grand Tour of Switzerland association accept no liability for construction works, diversions, signage relating to special events or safety provisions along the route.
0 10 20 miles www.swisstravelcenter.ch
Our partner regions

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