ADM3305 (Dr.

Shin)

CHAPTER 3: ADVANCED PIECE MENU FUNCTION

by Su-Jeong Hwang Shin, Ph.D. Professor

You will learn to use the following functions in the Piece menu:
 Add Pleats
 Add and Manipulate Darts
 Add fullness
 Asymmetrically fold pieces

1. Pleats
The Piece menu-> Pleats can be used to make the following types of pleats:
 Knife pleats are grouped and all faced in one direction.
 Box or inverted- Box pleats are folded away from each other. Inverted
pleats are folded to meet themselves.
 Variable pleat- is wider at one end than the other.
 Tapered pleat- is open at one end and tapers to nothing at the other.

1.1 To Create Knife Pleats

1) Open SKIRF in C:ADM3305/BASIC BLOCKS.
2) Fold 2 darts. Add 2 digitized lines in the dart location
3) Line-> Flatten Line Segment
4) Select Piece menu-
>Pleats-> Knife Pleat
5) Select pleat line (e.g. a
Pleat lay side
digitized line)
6) Enter half of
underlay=0.25” (1/2 Underlay
underlay is equal to the Pleat open side

finished width of the

pleat), Enter number of pleat=1
7) Select pleat open/lay side.
 ADM3305 (Dr. Shin)

NOTE: Box underlay is a distance equal to twice the depth of the pleat. The pleat
depth is the distance from the outside fold of the pleat to the inside fold.

1.2 To Create Box Pleats

1) Open and copy BODICEBACK. Rename (e.g. BODICEBOX).
2) Fold darts.
3) Delete unnecessary points.
(Or, Line- Line Flatten Segment).
5) Add digitized line for the pleat location.
5) Select Piece menu->Pleats-> Box Pleat
6) Select pleat line (e.g. a digitized line)
7) Enter half of underlay=0.25” (Box ½
underlay is equal to ½ width of the pleat), Enter number of pleat=1.

1.3 To Create Variable Pleats

1) Open and copy SLEEVE in
Pleat Line
C:ADM3305/BASIC BLOCKS. Rename (e.g.
SLEEVEPLEAT). Fold darts.
Open End
2) Select Variable Pleats
3) Create slash lines from pivot to open end. 4) Stationary point

Select a point to remain stationary.

5) Select internal line to move.
6) Move cursor to open pleat at pivot end. First, spread the stationary point, then
click LM button. Second, spread the open point, then click LM button. This way
makes you to create different amount of the widths.
7) Select Box pleat.

1.4 To Create Taper Pleats

1) Open and copy SLEEVE in C:ADM3305/BASIC
BLOCKS. Rename (e.g. SLEEVETAPER).
Taper stationary point
2) Same method as above.
 ADM3305 (Dr. Shin)

2. Manipulating Darts
Manipulating darts is important for garment looks and fits. A dart consists of an
apex and dart legs. The apex may or may not be the pivot point.

NOTE: When using pivot, combine,

and distribute functions, the system
generates correct grading by Apex
pivoting each size individually (e.g.
Dart leg
Pivot point, Opening point, or new
Drill (Pivot point)
grade rules).

2.1 To Pivot a Dart (=Rotate Dart)

NOTE: Before using this tool, the dart must be opened/unfolded.
1) Open/copy BODICEF in C:ADM3305/BASIC BLOCKS. Rename it.
2) Piece menu-> Darts-
>Rotate. 3.New opening point
3) Select the dart to pivot.
4) Select the pivot point.
5) Select the hold line: This
line maintains its orientation
with the grain of the fabric 1. Pivot point

and is not affected when the

dart is pivoted. 2. Hold line
8) Select the new opening
point.

2.2 Distribute Same Line

Use to pivot dart(s) to a new New dart open point

location along the same line.

The dart is distributed by
moving (NOT pivoting).
 ADM3305 (Dr. Shin)

2.3 Distribute/Rotate
Select Piece menu-> Darts->Distribute/Rotate.

NOTE: Use to pivot the entire dart or a portion to a

new location. You may use for creating multiple
darts from one dart.
The portion to distribute a dart can be by a
percentage or a fixed dart amount.

2.4 Combine Same Line

To combine 2 darts along the same line,
Select Piece menu-> Darts->Combine
Same Line.

NOTE: Use to combine 2 darts into 1 dart

in the same line by dart moving (NOT
pivoting).

2.5 Combine Diff Line

Select Piece menu-> Darts->Combine Diff
1. Dart to combine Line.
2. Rotation point

4. Target dart
3. Hold Line
NOTE: Use to combine 2 darts into 1 dart in
different locations of the piece. Darts must be
unfolded to use this function.
 ADM3305 (Dr. Shin)

2.6 Add Dart

This function is useful when you create a new dart into a piece.
1) Piece menu-> Darts-> Add Dart
2) Select opening point. Select dart apex. Enter the dart width.

2.7 Add Dart with Fullness

1) Piece menu-> Darts-> Add Dart with
Point to slash
Fullness
Dart opening
2) Select the dart opening
3) Select the apex point Apex point
4) Select a point on the boundary line to
slash. Enter the new dart width.

2.8 Change Dart Tip

This function is useful to change dart apex point.
2.9 Open Dart and Fold/Close Dart End
This function is to change a folded dart into a cut dart and to change an open
dart into a close dart.
2.11 Convert to Dart
This function is useful to define a dart shape that
created from a scratch or a draft piece. You need
to convert the dart shape to darts because the
Open end Pivot end
dart shape from scratch are not yet recognized as Slash line
darts in the system.

3. Fullness
5” open
This fullness function is useful to add flare or
gathers to a pattern for style purpose. The line on
5” open
fullness is added/subtracted is called a slash line. Skirts using Variable Fullness

Parallel fullness might be useful to lengthen or

shorten a piece (such as sleeve length).
 ADM3305 (Dr. Shin)

4. Asymmetrical Folds
This function can be used to fold a piece, darts and pleats. Only one fold per
piece is allowed, except Pleat Fold.

NOTE: Do not confuse with different functions and uses:

 Piece menu->Darts-> Fold/Close Dart End
 Piece menu-> Asymm Fold-> Dart fold

Fold-> Match point

Asymm Fold -> Dart fold

Asymm Fold-> Unfold

Practices
1. Use basic blocks. Add fullness to the front and back skirts (Hint:
Piece/Fullness/Parallel Fullness).
2. Shorten the sleeve 13 inches (Hint: Line/Modify Line/Move Offset).
3. Modify the grain lines to fit inside the pieces.
4. Make a flared skirt. (Think! No more hint. Apply what you have learned)
5. Make a raglan sleeve (Think! No more hint. Apply what you have learned)
6. Make Handkerchief skirts (see. Textbook Lesson 3).