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Notes on Economic Plants

Comfrey and Buttercup Eaters: Wild Vegetables of the Imereti


Region in Western Georgia, Caucasus
ŁUKASZ ŁUCZAJ*,1, BORIS TVALODZE2, AND DAVID ZALKALIANI2
1
Department of Botany, Institute of Biotechnology, University of Rzeszów, Werynia 502, 36-100,
Kolbuszowa, Poland
2
Kutaisi Botanic Garden, #2 Leselidze St., 4600, Kutaisi, Georgia
*Corresponding author; e-mail: lukasz.luczaj@interia.pl

Introduction the main form of consumption of wild greens in the


area and is served as a side dish. The term mkhali,
The use of wild greens is an important issue in the literary version, is often used as well, while
gastronomic ethnobotany as in some parts of the pkhali is its synonym in the local dialects of Imereti,
world, wild greens have been widely used to supple- Guria, and Racha (Lomtatidze et al. 1962). As a
ment human nutrition (Bharucha and Pretty 2010; large number of species are used in the dish, some of
Cruz-Garcia and Struik 2015; Johns 1990; Leonti them of little known edibility, it is of scientific and
2012; Serrasolses et al. 2016; Turner et al. 2011). economic importance to document the plants used.
One of the places where the use of wild vegetables
has been sparsely documented until recently, in Study Site
spite of the incredible richness of their use, is the
area of the Caucasus. Some uses of wild vegetables Imereti is a historical region of western Geor-
in this area are recorded by older Russian and gia located on the Colchic Plain, sandwiched
Georgian sources (see for example Grossgejm between the Great and Lesser Caucasus Moun-
1952; Javakhishvili 1986) and a few general ethno- tains. The climate is transitional between humid
botanical studies were made recently (Bussmann subtropical and warm temperate, with high rain-
et al. 2014, 2016a, b, 2017a, b; Hovsepyan et al. fall throughout the year. Imereti is a plain with
2016), whereas Kaliszewska and Kołodziejska- some low mountains surrounding it. The cli-
Degórska (2015) studied the use of wild vegetables mate is transitional between humid subtropical
in Dagestan (North Caucasus, Russian Federation). and warm temperate, with high rainfall through-
However, no such studies have been conducted in out the year (Kordzakhia 1971). The mean Au-
the Imereti region. We document the use of all the gust temperature is 29 °C (the hottest month), and
wild greens, which are predominantly used in a in January, it is 8 °C. In this climate, some wild
dish called —which according one of the vegetables may be collected virtually all year, as a
Georgian transliteration rules (Romanization clear drought period is not apparent. The native
system for Georgian link 2017) is written pkhali vegetation is composed of deciduous forests, and
(though in some texts it is also written pxali, the dominant trees are Quercus robur spp. imeretina
phkhali, phali, or pchali). This dish is of great im- (Steven ex Woronow) Menitsky, Zelkova
portance in the culinary tradition of Georgia, especial- carpinifolia (Pall.) K. Koch, Carpinus betulus L.,
ly its western part, and is eaten almost on a daily basis. Castanea sativa L., Alnus glutinosa ssp. barbata
Pkhali is also made with cultivated vegetables such as (C.A.Mey.) Yalt, Corylus avellana L., Acer
cabbage (Brassica oleracea L.), beetroot (Beta vulgaris cappadocicum Gled., Fagus orientalis Lipsky, Ulmus
L.), or spinach (Spinacia oleracea L.), but the con- glabra Huds., Buxus colchica Pojark., and Prunus
sumption of pkhali made of wild vegetables, so laurocerasus L. Large tracts of the Caucasian foothills
called veluri pkhali (wild pkhali) or mindvris pkhali are managed as wood pastures with freely roaming
(field pkhali), is equally common. Pkhali constitutes cattle and pigs, and many species of fruit trees are

Economic Botany, 71(2), 2017, pp. 188–193


© The Author(s) 2017. This article is an open access publication
2017] NOTES 189

interspersed between deciduous copses and pastures in Georgia. It has two large vegetable markets.
(Nakhutsrishvili 2012; Otte et al. 2011; Zazanashvili The one in the center of the city is a retail
et al. 2000). The area is relatively densely populated. market including wild vegetables, while the
The local farmers plant a variety of annual crops, wholesale market is located outside the city cen-
mainly maize, and there are multi-species orchards ter and hosts less wild vegetables. Single wild
around each house. vegetable stalls may also be encountered in
Kutaisi is the largest town in Imereti (196,000 smaller towns, at least occasionally, particularly
inhabitants) and the third most populated town in Samtredia and Choni.

TABLE 1. SPECIES OF WILD PLANTS USED IN THE DISH KNOWN AS PKHALI


190 ECONOMIC BOTANY [VOL 71

TABLE 1. (CONTINUED)

Methods March and June 2016. The informants were usually


accompanied by their extended families who
We carried out 41 single and group interviews commented on the information and supplied spec-
among knowledgeable informants (40 women, 13 imens. The informants supplied data about wild
men), selected mainly through contacts with village vegetable use in the following towns and villages:
leaders and by the snowball technique between Bagdati, Banoja, Cholebi, Geguti, Gelati, Gumbra,
2017] NOTES 191

TABLE 1. (CONTINUED)

For most species, young leaves and shoots are used, unless marked by a letter
a
Flower buds
b
Flowers and very young leaf buds

Khoni, Kumistavi, Kutaisi, Maglaki, Meskheti, Results


Mukhiani, Opshkviti, Partskhanakanevi, Rioni,
Sakhulia, Samtredia, Simoneti, Sormoni, Tkibuli/ On average, respondents mentioned 10.4 spe-
Hresili, Vani, Vartsikhe, Zarati, and Zubi. The age cies of wild greens per interview (compared to
of respondents ranged from 42 to 85 (mean 65, 6.9 species of fruits and 6.3 species of fungi).
median 66 years). In the interviews, we asked which Altogether, 53 species of wild green vegetables
wild plants were added to the pkhali dish. We also were documented (Table 1). Vegetables for pkhali
asked interviewees to list other leaves, fruits, roots, are boiled for 10 to 30 min, then strained and
or mushrooms used for food or herbal drinks in minced or finely chopped. They are added to
order to see wild vegetables in the context of all wild crushed or minced walnuts and spiced with vinegar,
food. However, for this paper, we only list the dill (Anethum graveolens L.), coriander (Coriandrum
numbers of species listed in other food categories sativum L.), pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium L.), cel-
without specifying the species. Voucher specimens ery (Apium graveolens L.), and parsley (Petroselinum
were deposited in the herbarium of the Faculty of crispsum (Mill.) (Fuss). Some more abundant wild
Biology, University of Warsaw in Poland (WA). vegetables are made as single-species dishes, but
The International Society of Ethnobiology Code most species are used in a mix, and there is no
of Ethics (2006) was followed (see website link). general rule as to which species are served single
192 ECONOMIC BOTANY [VOL 71

and which separately. A form of pkhali is also made credit to the original author(s) and the source, pro-
without walnuts, in which the green mass is spiced vide a link to the Creative Commons license, and
by tkemali, a sauce made of green cherry plums indicate if changes were made.
(Prunus cerasifera Ehrh. s.l.) and spiced with similar
herbs as the classic walnut pkhali. Mixed plants for
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