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What are Wire Hung Canopies?

Canopies: Canopies are lengths of fabric extended from overhead structures that provide shelter from the
elements. The can be mounted in a fixed position. Such canopies are often used with pergola structures like
the one illustrated here.

Wire Hung: Wire hung canopies, in contrast to fixed ones, are suspended below the structure on taught wires
with metal clips. These canopies can be extended or retracted on their supporting wires. When a canopy is
retracted the folds will deepen. Indeed, at full retraction, they will hang down a distance equal to half the span
length. For this reason, the wire runners should be mounted at least 97 inches or so high.
A Pergola with a Fixed Canopy
Pulley System: To make the adjustment of wire hung canopies possible, a pulley system is often rigged.
There are, of course, many ways to do this but we will assume a system similar to that illustrated below.

Using one line it is possible to open or close or adjust several canopies. This is the canopy system for which instructions will be provided in what
follows.

Fabric: Sunbrella Marine Grade fabric or Phifertex Plus mesh fabric is commonly used for wire hung
canopies. Sunbrella is excellent at providing long lasting shade in the most extreme heat and sun and it is
highly water resistant. Phifertex Plus cuts light by 90 to 95% and funnels off most rain which can make for a
 
very comfortable shelter -- it, too, is remarkably durable. Other upholstery fabrics are certainly acceptable, but
Phifertex Plus on the Left and Sunbrella
their resistance to Ultraviolet light will be more limited leading to more rapid deterioration. For indoor
Marine on the Right
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applications you may want to consider Sunbrella, Covington, Geobella, P/K Lifestyles, P/Kaufman,
Ultrafabrics, or Waverly upholstery fabric.

Fabric Width: The width of the fabric chosen is important since canopies are constructed of multiple panels with small gaps (usually 3 inches)
between each pair. There are several advantages to this system. First, it is possible to adjust each panel separately from the others regulating
coverage (although the single line closure system that we prefer obviates this advantage). Second, the panels open and close more easily and
accurately when they are of limited width. Third, rain water will not collect in a narrow width. Fourth, and perhaps most important, the segmented
canopy looks great!

Using the calculator it will be noticed that changing the fabric width will greatly effect the number of panels. When possible pick a fabric with a
width that reduces the the extent of scrap material. At the same time, keep the number of panels to a minimum since each additional one requires
more labor and hardware. Use the calculator to experiment with different fabric widths.

Fill Length: The length of the opening to be filled. This usually means a measurement from one eye bolt to
another at opposite ends of the structure.

Fill Width:The number of canopies required depends fabric width, the width of your area covered and the
desired appearance of the wire hung canopies. Most wire hung canopy panels are usually not more than 60
inches (1524 mm) wide. To fill a space, multiple canopies are typically used. Each canopy should be spaced
Measuring Length
about 3 inches apart or so for best operation and that spacing is assumed by the calculator.

Swag: Our calculations will assume a 15% swag for each

span. This means that, when the canopy is fully extended,
each fabric span between supporting pipes will be 1.058 times
longer than the distance between pipes measured in a straight
line. The swag results in a natural fabric drape when the Measuring Width
canopy is fully extended that is very attractive.

Using the Calculator

A 15% Swag

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Open the calculator by hitting the third "Calculator" tab at the head of this app. There is a selector
at the top to indicate wheather measurements are to be in inches or millimeters. That is followed by three required input fields: Structure Width,
Length, and Fabric Width.

When the measurements are entered and the "Calculate" button is hit the app generates, first, a list of
dimensions to guide canopy construction, then a list of materials for the canopies, then a list of materials if a
pulley system is desired, and, finally, a list of tools that will come in handy. All this is followed by a scale
rendition of one panel. The rendition will show the full fabric width with the panel, at its finished scale (hems
will be fashioned of excess fabric on each edge), centered on it. All of the folds required to create spans and
sleeves will be shown in their relative positions on the image.

Each panel is shown centered on the calculator rendition in

case there is a pattern on the fabric. This keeps the patterns The Calculator App on an IPhone

uniform in their placement across all panels. It also provides

for extra material along each side for hems if necessary (more about hems below). There will be
horizontal lines on the panel rendition to indicate sleeve folds. At these lines, the fabric will be
sharply creased and secured with pins or staples. A row of straight stitches 1-5/16 inches inside
the folds will create sleeves for conduit tubing rods.

Cut and Hem the Panels

The Rendered Panel The calculator displays a "Cut fabric length" at the bottom of the Canopy Panel Dimension listing.
This figure includes the total of all spans plus short lengths at each end to form sleeves plus an
extra "fudge factor". The fudge factor is necessary because we start construction at one end and
move down the panel sewing sleeves at each end and at the end of each span. This activity can introduce minor inconsistencies not apparent in
the depth of swags until the last one (all the error compounded could radically shorten that span). The extra length insures that each span can be
made consistent from beginning to end.

Having cut the panels into equal lengths, cut away scrap cloth along both sides of the centered panel. Use the "centering offset" measuring from
both sides of the fabric. All panels usually have a one inch (25.4 mm) fold of cloth (a hem) along their two long edges unless they are cut with a
hotknife. Be sure to subtract that inch from the centering offset before cutting fabrics that will be hemmed. It is enough to simply cut the fabric with
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shears and fold it once to form the hem -- any raveling will be minimal. If a hotknife is used to cut the fabric
(assuming that it is a synthetic blend), raveling will not be a problem and the hem can be eliminated. In any
case, avoid more than a single fold of cloth as a hem in order to reduce the likelyhood of thickness along the
edges that can trap rain water (we will mount the canopy panels so the hems are up for appearance sake).

Hems can be secured in place prior to sewing with staples or with a basting tape (or both). They can be sewn
with a single stitch, either straight or zig-zag. Cut Scrap Fabric from Edges

Sewing Instructions
End Sleeve Construction: Start at one of the short ends and create a 1/2 inch single hem. I like to baste, pin or staple and then sew with a 5 to
6mm straight stitch to secure the hem. Then measure over 2.75 inches from the finished folded hemmed edge and mark the fabric. Fold the
fabric’s edge (where the folded ½” hem edge was created) over to the mark you made on the fabric at 2.75” and pin or staple (do not baste) the
fabric at that location. Now create your first sleeve by sewing about 1/8” from the fold of the ½” hem at that location. Be sure to reverse at the
beginning and end of your sewing to lock the stitch in place and sew with a 5mm to 6mm straight stitch across the width of the fabric. This should
result in a sleeve, when lying flat, from fold to stitch of about 1 5/16”. Test the sleeve to see if a ½” EMT conduit will fit inside the pocket, it will be
especially snug where the hems are, so this will require a little effort to get it to pushed inside (remove the pipe when you are confident it works
well).

Sleeve Construction at Spans:Next flip the fabric over (so hems are down). From the first sleeve’s folded
edge measure over the “Span length” and mark the fabric (on sides and at center location). Fold the fabric at
that location (folded under to the hemmed side). Be sure the fold is 90 degrees from the long edge of the
fabric. (Hint: If the fabric’s long edges (hemmed edges) are even, the fold will be straight). Pin or staple the
fabric about ¾” from that folded edge all along the width (securing your fold and creating a pocket or sleeve).
Then sew a straight stitch that is 1 5/16” away from the folded edge. Be sure to reverse at the beginning and
end of your sewing to lock the stitch in place and sew with a 5mm to 6mm straight stitch across the width of
the fabric. This creates your next sleeve.

Repeat this process for succeeding sleeves until you reach the last sleeve. On the final sleeve measure over
the “Span length” and mark the fabric, then measure from that mark over 1.93” (1 15/16”) and mark the fabric
again. At this last mark location cut off any excess fabric. From the end of the fabric create a ½” hem, just like A Magnetic Sewing Guide is Helpful

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you did on the first short edge. Then about an 1/8” from the folded hemmed edge place another stitch
creating your last sleeve/pocket which should be about 1 5/16” when laying flat.

Important Note for Sunbrella Canopies: If using Sunbrella Marine Grade fabric, it is a very water resistant fabric that will hold water when it
rains. To reduce pooling water install a grommet in the center of each span for water drainage. The size of the grommet is not critical and,
although we use spur grommets ourselves, the type of grommet used is also not important since there is no strain on it. If using Phifertex or
Phifertex Plus mesh fabric the grommet is not needed.

The Wire Runs

Install Eye Bolts or Pad Eyes (#120270 or #120273): Each eye should be 3 to 7 inches (76 to 178 mm) inside the edges of the canopy panels
and from 97 to 110 inches (2463 to 2794 mm) high. There will be four eyes for each canopy panel -- two at each end. Wire rope will be threaded
through each set of four eyes creating a rectangle. Each rectangle of wire can be tensioned with a single stainless steel turnbuckle as shown
below.

Cut the wire rope: Add 6 inches or so to a length of wire totaling twice the measurement from eye to eye
plus twice the distance between each pair of eyes at the ends of each panel less the length of a stainless
steel turnbuckle. The extra will be used to create eyes. The wire can be cut with a heavy duty wire cutter or
with a cut off wheel in a Dremel tool. Nicropress sleeves will make for the neatest loops, but wire rope clamps
are perfectly acceptable.

Tubing Preparation
A Turnbuckle Tensions the Rectangle of
Cut the Tubing: 1/2" EMT tubing (often called "conduit") and the #8 x 1/2 inch self tapping screws with hex
Wire
heads used to secure stap eyes to the tubing can be purchased at a hardware store. Cut the ½” EMT tubing
to the width of the panels minus about a half inch or so. The ends of the tubing should be long enough to rest
inside the hemmed edges of the sleeves -- they should not protrude from the sleeves.

Install Strap Eyes: Measure the distance between each pair of wire ropes running the length of the canopy structure. Center and mark this
measurment on the lengths of tuping appropriate for each panel run ( measurement may vary a bit from panel wire set to panel wire set). A Strap
Eye and Fixed Eye Snap Hook will be installed on the pipe at these locations. Place a strap eye centered over the marks just placed on the pipe.
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Mark the two

holes where
screws will be
used to secure
the strap eye
to the pipe.
Then pre-drill
for a #8 self- The Strap Eye Marks
tapping screw.
Cutting with a Hack Saw Measuring for Strap Eye Placement
Drill just one
side of the tubing. Do this for each section of
tubing. (HINT: ½” EMT tubing has a very visible weld line that should be perfectly stright along the pipe, use that line as a guide for drilling the
holes to be assured they are in a stright line along the pipe.)

Prepare Sleeves: Line up a cut tubing length with pre-drilled holes over each sleeve (not inside the sleeves but over them). Mark the folded
sleeves at each pre-drilled hole (there should be 4 marks on each sleeve’s fold).

Use a 1/8” hole cutter from Sailrite #102235 and place it half way over the marks on your fabric
along the fold of each sleeve and punch a hole in the fabric (this hole is a half moon apparance,
but when the sleeve is unfolded it is a round hole). Use a cutting block #103651 or #378100 on
the underside to keep from dulling the tool and to prevent damaging the canopy fabric elsewhere
when puching the hole.

Cutting Holes in a Sleeve
Tubing Insertion: Next insert the tubing into the sleeve carefully (it should fit very snuggly inside
the sleeve). Once the pipe is inside the sleeve, you may need to rotate the pipe until the holes in
the fabric line up the holes in the pipe. (HINT: Use a pair of needle nose pliers to rotate the pipe
inside the sleeve. Line up one side at a time then move to the other and repeat the process.)
Position a Strap Eye with a Fixed Eye Snap in place on the strap eye. Then use the #8 self-drilling
screws and secure the strap eye. Repeat these steps for the opposite end of the sleeve. Ensure

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that the hardware on both ends of the sleeve is centered at the top edge of the sleeve. Repeat this process
for each tubing/sleeve assembly.

The Pulley and Rope System

It is perfectly OK to open and close each canopy panel one at a time
using a prod to push the spans back and forth. But it is wonderfully
convenient to be able to pull one line to open or close all panels at the
same time.

The supplies required for

Eye Strap with Snap
this single line system are
listed in a separate Canopies Snaped in Place

section as part of the

output generated by the
Calculator. There will be double blocks and single blocks and cheek blocks and strap eyes and a
clam cleat and line, of course, as well as screws to put it all together.

Single Line System Any number of panels can be linked together using the system illustrated below. The key is to
start with the panel on the "control" side (1 below) following the diagram steps one at a time to the
panel opposite (6) and the work back one panel at a time with a continuous length of line. Double
blocks are used at the "open" side of each canopy panel (2 and 14, 13 and 10, 9 and 6) and single blocks are used at the "closed" side of each
(7, 11, and 15). A cheek block (4) and a double block (5) are used to drop the line down to a convenient position on the control side. The clam
cleat is used just above the cheek block to lock the canopy open or closed.

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Of course there may be more or fewer panels, but the rigging process described here will apply. It is, however, best to keep each pulley system
confined to 3 or fewer panels. Otherwise the effort required to retract and extend becomes extreme. If there are between 2 and 6 panels, make 2
separate systems. Between 6 and 9 panels create 3 systems. The list of materials generated by the calculator will include extra cheek blocks,
double blocks, and cam cleats to provide for this.

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