Department of Collegiate and Technical Education

TEXTILE TESTING LABORATORY – II

Course Objectives:

The objective of this course is to make students understand the importance of textile
testing and quality control in textile industry. Students are trained to understand various
methods and instruments used for testing of yarns, fabrics, garments and other
accessories. Students are trained to test the yarns, fabrics, garments, and other accessories
for various properties, and calculate, analyse, compare and draw suitable conclusions.

Experiment – 1

Determination of fabric geometrical properties.

Aim of the experiment: Determination of geomertic parameters of woven

textile fabrics.
Scope:
 It prescribes the methods of testing of fabric for determination of various
geometrical parameters namely, EPI, PPI, Cover factor, Crimp etc.
 The performance of fabric is ultimately related to the end use conditions of a
material.
 Although all agents affect textile performance at the fiber, yarns &fabric level,
emphasis is generally given to fabrics since they represent the largest class of
textiles structures in variety of applications.
Terminology: For the purpose of the test method, the following definitions shall be
used.
Fabric thread density: It is a measure of the coarseness or fineness of fabric. It is
measured by counting the number of threads contained in one square inch of fabric or one
square centimeter,including both warp and weft threads.
Textile testing Laboratory – II (17TXL76)
a)Ends per inch / Ends per centimeter (EPI /EPC): The number of warp thread per
inch is called ends per inch.
b)Picks per inch / Picks per centimeter (PPI / PPC): The number of weft thread per
inch is called picks per inch.
Yarn count: It is a numerical value which expresses the coarseness or fineness
(diameter) of the yarn and also indicates the relationship between length and weight
(mass per unit length or the length per unit mass) of that yarn.
a)Warp yarn count in Ne and Tex
b)Weft yarn count in Ne and Tex
Yarn crimp %: The difference between the straightened length of yarn and the length
of yarn while in the cloth, expressed as percentage of the latter.
a)Warp yarn crimp
b)Weft yarn crimp
Yarn take- up %: Take-up is the deviation from straightness of the yarns as they lie
in the cloth, expressed as percentage of the original length of the yarn before weaving.
a)Warp yarn take-up
b)Weft yarn take-up
Cover factor (kc) : Cover factor is a number that indicates the extent to which the area
of a fabric is covered by one set of threads. For any woven fabric, there are two cover
factors: a warp cover factor and a weft cover factor. Under the cotton system, the cover
factor is the ratio of the number of threads per inch to the square root of the cotton yarn
count.
a)Warp cover factor
b)Weft cover factor
Fractional cover factor : It is the ratio of area covered by the yarns to the total area
of the fabric. If warp yarn diameter is ‘d 1’ inch and spacing between two consecutive ends
is ‘p1’ inch then fractional cover for warp (k1) is d1/p1.
a)Warp fractional cover factor
b)Weft fractional cover factor
Fabric bulk density (dF) : It is the ratio of fabric mass per unit area to the fabric
thickness in cm.
Fabric packing factor (pF) : It repersents the extent of closeness of yarns within
the fabric structure.

Textile testing Laboratory – II (17TXL76)

Fabric thickness : The distance between top and bottom surface of the fabric under
standard pressure is called fabric thickness. It is normaly measured in millimeters.
Fabric Porosity % (P) : Porosity is determined by measuring the total volume of a
fabric and calculating the total volume of fiber in the sample.The difference between
these two values is air space and,when calculated as per cent of the total voulme, gives
the porosity.
Fabric mass per unit length : The weight of a fabric depends on the thickness of
the threads its made of the density of the weave.Depending of the system (mertic or
imperial), the wieght will be measured in grams per square meter (g/m 2 or gsm) or in
ounce per square yard (oz/y2).
Fabric length : The distance measured from end to end, along the selvedge of a fabric.
ISI suggested the following three methods to measure the length of a fabric-
 By using a measuring table
 By using measuring scale
 By using a measuring machine (Trumeter)
Fabric width : The distance from the outside of one selvedge to the outside of the
other, measured perpendicular to the length of the fabric.
Atmospheric conditions for conditioning and testing:
Prior to test, the fabrics shall be conditioned to moisture equilibrium in standard
atmospheric conditions of 65 + 2 percent relative humidity and 27 + 2oC temperture.
The test shall be carried out in standard atmosphere.

Procedure :
1. Determination of thread density:
 Keep the test sample on a flat table and smoothen it out.
 Place the counting glass on the fabrics in a direction parallel to warp if
weft density is to be determined and parallel to weft if warp density is to
be determined.
 Find the number of warp and weft threads in a specified length as required.
 Following the procedure prescribed in steps 1 to 4, determine the number
of warp and weft threads per inch or centimeter in at least four more
places.
 Calculate the mean of all the values and report it as the number of warp
and weft threads per centimeter or inch of the fabric.

Textile testing Laboratory – II (17TXL76)

2. Determination of yarn count :
It is determined by using Beesley Balance or Electronic balance method. It
works on the principle of fixed weight and fixed length system. It is uesd when the
warp and the weft count of yarns needs to be measured for small piece of fabric.
 The fabric is cut into small lengths with a template depending on the count
system required.
 Yarns are then removed from the specimen.
 Bessley balance consists of a light- weight beam pivoted on jewel bearings
with a hook at one end a pointer at the other end.
 The beam is initially levelled to bring the pointer against a datum line.
 A standard weight is suspended in a notch on the beam arm pointer side.
 The total number of yarn lengths required to balance a standard weight on
the beam directly gives the count of yarn.
 Same procedure is followed for weft.
3. Determination of crimp% of yarn:
Crimp is the weaveness of yarn and can be determined using hands. The yarns are
ravelled out from the sample both weft and warp way by using strength length and
fixed length of yarn.
 From the given sample, warp and weft threads are ravelled.
 Fixed length is measured by scale.
 The yarn is gently straightened without stretching and the length is
measured.
 The same procedure is repeated for both warp and weft yarns.
 By using forrmula crimp% and take up% is calculated.
4. Determination fabric cover factor:
For any woven fabric, there are two cover factors: a warp cover factor and a weft
cover factor. Under the cotton system the cover factor is the ratio of the number of
threads per inch to the square root of the cotton yarn count.
5. Determination of fabric mass per unit length : The fabric weight is
expressed in GSM. The fabric is taken and weigh on a balance. It can be
determined using the formula and the sample weight is determined by cutting the
fabric into 10*10cm.
The alternate method to measure the fabric mass per unit length is Cut and weigh
method.
Textile testing Laboratory – II (17TXL76)
 6. Determination of fabric thickness :
A thickness gague used for meausuring fabric thickness. It can be used to
measure thickness of various types of fabric. For example – woven and knitted
fabric.
 A piece of the fabric is placed on the reference plate of the instrument
ensuring that there are no creases in the fabric.While placing the fabric it
should not be subjected to any streching. The pressure foot is gradually
brought down and after allowing it to rest on the fabric for 30 seconds, the
gauge reading is taken. The thickness is read at 10 different places on the
sample and the mean of these readings is taken as the average measured
thickness of the sample.
7. Determination of fabric length :
By measuring table & scale :
i. From full length measurement
ii. From sample length measurement
Trumeter :
 Measuring roller
 Pressure roller
 Fabric passes through between measuring and pressure roller and the
length indicate on the counter.
8. Determination of fabric width :
 The sample should be collected from at least three places from a fabric e.g
two samples from the two sides and one sample from the middle.
 Measurements should take before and after conditioning. Then it should be
watched that if there is any change in width.
 On a piece of the cloth, 10 width measurements should be made at points
distributed at roughly equal distances throughout the full length of the
fabric piece.
 If full length is not used a sample length not less than 1 yard should be
used and width measurements should be taken at least 3 palces.
 Then, in both cases, mean width should be calculated.
Calculations : The fabric geometrical parameters are calculated by using the
following formula :
1. Fabric thread density:
Textile testing Laboratory – II (17TXL76)
 i. Ends per unit length in cm and inches (n1)
EPC = EPC = EPI ÷ 2.54
EPI =
ii. Picks per unit length in cm and inches (n2)
PPC = PPC= PPI ÷2.54
PPI =
2. Yarn count :
i. Warp yarn count in Ne and Tex
Ne = Tex = 590.54 ÷Ne
Tex =
ii. Weft yarn count in Ne and Tex
Ne =
Tex =
3. Yarn crimp % :
C = 100 ×(Y−¿F) ÷F
Where, C = Yarn crimp %
Y = Average of distance between bench marks on yarn after ÷
removal from fabric and straightend.
F = Average of distances between bench marks on yarn in fabric
i. Crimp in warp yarn % =
ii. Crimp in weft yarn % =
4. Yarn take up % :
t = (Y – F ) ×100 ÷ Y
Where, t = take up%
Y = Average of distance between bench marks on yarn after removal
from fabric and straightend.
F = Average of distances between bench marks on yarn in fabric
i. Warp yarn take up % =
ii. Weft yarn take up % =

5. Cover factor (k) :

i. Warp cover factor K1 = n1* √T1
=
Where, n1 = EPC, T1 = Warp yarn count in Tex
ii. Weft cover factor K2 = n2 * √T2
Textile testing Laboratory – II (17TXL76)
 =
Where, n2 = PPC,T2 = weft yarn count in Tex
6. Fabric cover factor (Kc):
Kc = ( Kwarp + Kweft ) – Kwarp × Kweft ÷28
=
Fractional cover factor (warp) = n1 √T1 ÷ 266
=
Fractional cover factor (weft) = n2 √T2 ÷266
=
Fractional cover factor (Kc ) = Kwarp + K weft – (Kwarp× Kweft )
=
9. Fabric bulk density ( d F ) in g / cm3 :
d F = [ M ÷T ] =
Where, d F = fabric bulk density in g / cm3
M = fabric mass per unit area ( g / sq mt)
T = fabric thickness in cm
10. Fabric packing factor ( p F ) in g / cm3 :
p F = d F ÷d f
=
Where, d F = fabric bulk density in g / cm3
d f = density of cotton fibere in g / cm3 (1.54)
11. Fabric porosity ( P ) in % :
P = (1 −¿ d F ÷d f ) ×100
=
12. Fabric weight in ozs / sq yards
= 0.6857 S{n1 ( 1 + C1) ÷N1 + n2 ( 1 + C2) ÷ N2 }
=
13. Fabric mass / unit area in g / mt2 :
= 0.1 {n1 N1 (1 + 0.01 C1 ) + n2 N2 (1 + 0.01C2 ) }
=
14. Fabric thickness in mm and cm :
i. Fabric thickness in mm =
ii. Fabric thickness in cm =
15. Fabric interinsic area :
i = 1 - KC
Textile testing Laboratory – II (17TXL76)
 =
Test results : The geometrical parameters of given fabric is measured as per the test
procedures and methods.

Sl.No Fabric Parameters Results

.
1. Fabric thread density EPC =

i. Ends per unit length PPC =

ii. Picks per unit length EPI =

PPI =
2. Yarn Count Ne =
i. Warp yarn count Tex =
ii. Weft yarn count Ne =
Tex =
3. Yarn Crimp C1 =
i. Warp yarn crimp C2 =
ii. Weft yarn crimp
4. Yarn take up t1=
i. Warp yarn take up t2=
ii. Weft yarn take up
5. Cover Factor K1 =
i. Warp cover factor K2 =
ii. Weft cover factor
6. Fabric Cover Factor Kc =

7. Fabric bulk density in g /cm3 dF=

8. Fabric Packing factor ( p) P=

9. Fabric weight in ozs /yd2 Ozs /yd2

10. Fabric weight in g /m2 g / m2

11. Fabric thickness mm

cm
12. Fabric interinsic area

13. Fbric Porosity %

Conclusions : Based on the test result, draw suitable conclusions.

References :
Textile testing Laboratory – II (17TXL76)
 1. BIS Handbook, B I S Publication 1985.
2. Pinciples of textile testing : an introduction to physical methods of testing textile
fiberes, yarns, and fabrics [by] J. E.Booth.
3. A Practical Guide to Textile Testing [by] Amurtha K, Woodhead Publishing India
In Textiles.
4. Physical Textile testing of Textiles – B.P.Soville, Wood Head-1999.
5. Textile Testing [by] JOHN H. SKINKLE.
6. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/335038934_Testing_of_Fibres_Yarns_a
nd_Fabrics_and_Their_Recent_Developments.
7. http://eacharya.inflibnet.ac.in/data-server/eacharya-
documents/53e0c6cbe413016f234436ed_INFIEP_8/15/ET/8_ENG-15-ET-V1-
S1__lesson.pdf.
MCQ QUESTIONS :
1. The areal density of a woven fabric will be least influnced by
o EPI
o PPI
o Yarn Count
 Weave
2. Warp cover factor can be obtained if the values of the following parameters are
known
o EPI
o PPI
 EPI and warp yarn count
o PPI and weft yarn count
3. Fabric thickness is related to
 Sum of warp and weft diameter
o Sum of crimp heights
o Sum of yarn diameter and crimp height
o Sum of warp and weft spacing
4. Cover factor k =
o 1÷ 4 √ N
o 36e /√ N 1
 n (threads per inch ) ÷ √ N
o 1 ÷√ N
Textile testing Laboratory – II (17TXL76)
5. The ratio of fabric mass per unit area to the fabric thickness in cm is
o Fabric cover factor
o Fabric thickness
o Fabric packing factor
 Fabric bulk density
6. The difference between the total volume of a fabric and the total volume of fiber
in sample is calculated as percent of the total volume gives the _______
o Fabric packing factor
 Fabric Porosity
o Fabric bulk density
o Fractional cover factor
7. Which of the following method is not used to measure the length of the fabric
o By using a measuring table
o By using measuring scale
o By using measuring machine (truemeter)
 Fabric dissection method
8. Gram per unit square is the unit of ____________ fabric parameter.
o Fabric porosity
o Fabric bulk density
 Fabric mass per unit length
o Fabric length
9. Which of the following is not used to measure fabric thickness
o Shirley thickness gauge
 Screw gauge
o Reynolds and Branson thickness tester
o Mag Ana thickness tester

Textile testing Laboratory – II (17TXL76)