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The Marvel of Kanchipuram Silk Saree

Article · January 2009

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Kadhar Abdul K M
Central Silk Technological Research Institute
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 SffiK RKPILGRIMAG
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ryWW MRYEL OF
fficHrPu
SAREESHT THE LOO\I: Trr-o trpes of looms are used
in tbr the production of Kanchipuram
silh saree riz. Frame loom and Pit loom.
Thrors shuttle is invariablv used for the
production oi saree on the fir'o tfpes
By K M. A. KADHAR Dr G HiF :r loom. The main parts of the loom are:
Sler, Treadles, Reed, Healds, Warp Beam,
Cloth beam, Shuttle and Lease rods.

Figure l, illustrates the layout of a

rr'earing loom used in the production of
silk saree production. The sheet of warp
varn , consisting of the required number
of ends rvound into considerable length,
carried upon a suitable device and folded
and tied in such a way that necessary
tension is obtained for weaving the cloth.
The specification for making the warp, in
addition to stipulating the tlpe of yarn,
the number of ends and the length of the
warp, may also include a pattern if it is
desired to produce a cloth with colored
stripes but the zari thread is always useC
as extra warp only.

The warp threads from the ball or beam

anchipuram town
known as silk city since the
main profession of the people
is u'eaving silk sarees. The silk
weavers of Kanchi settled more than 400
years ago and hare given it an enviable
reputation as the producer of the best
silk sarees in the countn: Its economl'
is entirely dependent on tourism and
handloom industn:
THE USP: A trpical Xan.-hipuram silk
saree is knot-n tbr its distingui$ed
characteristics of hearr r.-eight ccx4'laJ
d
d68
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is also with classic colours and rich zari border
and pallu. Two tlpes of warp is used for
manufacturing Silk sarees viz. ]ari 'rvarp
of 2 ply 2 fold threads and |odupuri rtarp
of 2 pIy threads. Zari thread consisl: oi
coloured silk thread as core rrrapp.e,l
rvith flattened silver rrire rr-ith er.ii
plating. These silli sarees are rr-ell knr-n:
tbr inter \r-o\-en lace rr-ork and i- :::-<=:a
rr-hich is the desteritr or the cr.< zi
\\ra\-er in bringing rbc lu-.r.;.re a-- .;xpr
respe.-tfteh.
3f Ua-. r--r:-E- faera c l-G 3 m
are then drawn through the healds, Hl
and H2, threaded through the splits of
the reed R and at the point I interlaced
with the weft supplied by the shuttle S
(throw shuttle). The cloth is formed at the
fell of the cloth F, and is rr-ound upon
cloth roller situated at the front of t
loom CR atter passing through
the take up roller TR,
er:ur* enough
rr-hich
L