N RTHERN

LIGHTS
ISSUE 3//2019

IMPORTANT DATES
NOVEMBER ALSO IN THIS ISSUE
30th Den Norske Klub’s
traditional Norwegian
Julebord
07 10 21
DECEMBER
7th Christmas Ball

FEBRUARY 2020
13th Pol Roger Dinner Rolf at RAF DNK Fårikål Supper At The heart of the Silk
Road
 CALENDAR OF EVENTS Message from
04 Your Board

07 Rolf at RAF

November February
1st Den Norske Klub
Fredagspils
7th Den Norske Klub
Fredagspils 10 DNK Fårikål Supper

7th In & Out Pol Roger 13th In & Out Pol Roger
Dinner Dinner
11th In & Out Armistice
Day Lunch
22nd In & Out Under 35s 12 Lofoten Raid
– Inter-Club Mess
20th In & Out Fireside Dinner
Chat: Tim Wander
– Culver Cliff INVESTOR CORNER:
Brighter political
21st In & Out Beaujolais
Noveau Dinner
March 17 outlook generating
6th Fredagspils hope, despite weak
27th In & Out Wine Buffs:
Wines of the Levant statistics
12th DNK Fireside Chat:
30th Den Norske Klub Norwegian Defence
Julebord Attaché, John
Andreas Olsen
18 CoScan Drinks Party
December
3rd In & Out 3 Clubs April
Carol Service 3rd Fredagspils DISCOVERY:
6th Den Norske Klub
Fredagspils
21 At The Heart of
The Silk Road
7th In & Out Club May
Christmas Ball
17th Den Norske Klub
13th In & Out End of
term lunch
17th May Dinner 26 Fridtjof Nansen

January June Den Norske Klub

3rd Den Norske Klub 5th Fredagspils 31 Merchandise
Fredagspils
5th Den Norske Klub
13th In & Out Buckhurst AGM
Park Shoot
Although every effort has been made
to ensure accuracy, neither Den Norske
Klub in London nor the authors can
accept liability for errors or emissions.
HOW TO BOOK Views expressed in this newsletter
Please e-mail: secretary@dennorskeklub.co.uk are not necessarily those of Den
Norske Klub. No responsibility can be
EVENT CANCELLATION accepted for unsolicited submissions,
Please note that cancellation of events made less than transparencies or photographs. All
seven days before the event will not be refunded. prices and information contained in
event advertisements are correct at the
time of going to press.
Front cover photo Lillesand harbour in autumn by Stig Berge
2 www.dennorskeklub.co.uk
LEISURE PLEASURE BUSINESS

Norwegian Private Members Club

in London since 17th of May 1887
Join us!
secretary@dennorskeklub.co.uk
dennorskeklub.co.uk
 Message from YOUR BOARD
Dear Members
Welcome to the 2019 autumn edition of starting a new regular column with Nina
Northern Lights! next year focused on art and art collecting.
An excellent addition to our successful Art
The autumn edition of Northern Lights
Series events. In December, we are looking
comes just after we have hosted our first
forward to the lighting of the Christmas tree
club Fårikål dinner
on Trafalgar Square and the annual Julepils,
in-house, in the iconic
the last regular Fredagspils of the year on
Lady Astor room, and
the first Friday of December.
as we are preparing
In terms of what your board has been (and
are) working on; in addition to planning
lots of exciting events, we have acquired a
film projector to host film evenings at the
to welcome you to club, we are confirming sponsorship deals
the club’s annual and we have updated the club’s inventory.
Julebord in the Our next plans include putting in place a
beautiful King reciprocal agreement with a club in Norway
Harald V room. and continuing our integration into the
In this edition of In&Out. A few board members terms will be
Northern Lights you can read fascinating coming to an end next year and we would
articles from board member Constanse love to hear from those of you wanting
Bowes-Lyon on to join the board or just wanting to lend a
the Silk Road, helping hand from time to time if a board
editor Ken commitment is too much. We encourage
Skaarbrevik has both new and old members to become
interviewed more involved, as both board members and
former RAF volunteers.
pilot and long Looking into 2020…… we have lots of
interesting events on the agenda, including
standing Den Norske the inaugural annual fireside chat with
Klub member, Rolf Military Attaché Colonel John Andreas
Christophersen, we can Olsen in the first quarter. The Oslo based
read about the Lofoten gallery Kunstverket will be hosting us again
Raid, and at the London Original Print Fair and we
Fridtjof will of course be hosting you for the annual
Nansen’s 17th May black-tie dinner, which may be
life, whose arranged in a slightly different format to
bronze previous years as our national day falls on a
statue Sunday in 2020….
you can admire in the King
Harald V room. Stay at The In&Out hotel…. Ties, cufflinks,
……. Last but not least, for those of you
We are currently putting the final touches visiting or hosting friends and family
to this years’ Julebord – tickets go on sale in London in the months leading up to
at the beginning of November so keep a Christmas, don’t miss out on excellent
look out for that – and we are planning members rates for the beautifully
an art evening with SEBs Art Advisor refurbished bedrooms at the club. Should
Nina Sørlie, where she will focus in on you be planning your Christmas shopping,
photography as an art form. We will be

4 www.dennorskeklub.co.uk
not only does the In&Out have a stunning
range of artefacts available for sale at the
Your Board
Babmaes reception; you can also find Den
Norske Klub cufflinks, ties, and a few Cecilia Luras
limited edition, eco-friendly reusable cups Chair
produced to commemorate Den Norske
Klub’s 20th anniversary. All in the Babmaes
Constanse Bowes-Lyon
reception.
Board Member
As we go into the darker autumn months,
we wish all our members many cosy winter
evenings in the run up to Christmas and Christian Hvamstad
look forward to seeing you for the annual Board Member
Klub Julebord and the last Fredagspils of
the year, as well, as at all the other exciting
events your board are planning for you for Irene Garland
the rest of the year and for 2020! Board Member

Warm regards,
Chair Cecilia Luras Pauline Houpillart
on behalf of the DNK Board. Board Member
P.S. Don’t miss the chance to become a
full Den Norske Klub member – you can find
your application form on Ken Skaarbrevik
www.dennorskeklub.co.uk/membership. Board Member

Maria Efimova
Board Member

Vegard Bringsjord
Board Member

Patrick Jonassen
IT Counsel
Patrick Moe
Legal Counsel and Company Secretary

Thanks to all our partners!

www.dennorskeklub.co.uk 5
NEW! Fly directly
from London Stansted
to Kristiansand
FROM

£69
Book at wideroe.co.uk
*

Flight will operate

Mondays, Thursdays,
Fridays and Sundays.
*One-way incl. taxes. Terms
and conditions will apply.
Rolf at RAF
At the Imperial War Museum in
Duxford, formally known as RAF
Duxford in Cambridgeshire, the much
anticipated Battle of Britain flight
display took place over the weekend
of the 21st and 22nd of September to
a sell out crowd of thousands.
Rolf Christophersen
www.dennorskeklub.co.uk
Text by Ken Skaarbrevik
F
or aviation enthusiasts this was an
amazing opportunity to see what
might have been the last time a display
of this magnitude of WW2 planes flew.
The fantastic air show including Spitfires,
Messerschmitts, Dakotas, a B17 Flying
Fortress and many other aircrafts from this
era. It also included a few lovingly restored
bi-planes from WW1 and many modern
planes. Several non British display units
attended including the Norwegian Air Force
Historical Squadron which brought along
their superb T-33 Silver Star and their MiG-
15UTI ‘Red 18’ aircraft which added some jet
noise to the display. But of course it was the
RAF and their planes and pilots, which were
celebrated and dominated the show.
In this connection Den Norske Klub is proud
to have a long standing member, Mr Rolf
Christophersen, who in fact is a former RAF
pilot and who flew missions all through
the years of the war. Most of us know Rolf
well as he is quite active in the Club but
many have no idea of his extraordinary
RAF background. He is a rather modest
Continued overleaf
7
 Rolf Christophersen
at home
person not talking much about what he
has achieved. Recently when a delegate
from Luftkrigsskolen (The Norwegian Air
Force Academy) attended an event at the
Royal Aviation Society he was astonished
to meet Rolf and find out about his RAF
credentials. Rolf Christophersen was in fact
unique in this position as Norwegians during
WW2 in general served in British Squadrons
but as part of the Norwegian Air Force.
Following this chance meeting an article
about Rolf was written in the Norwegian Air
Force Community (Luftmilitært Samfund)
magazine, LuftLed.
Wanting to know more, I got in touch and
Rolf kindly invited me to his and his wife
Angela’s cosy home in Kensington to have
a chat about his life.
Rolf was born in England in 1921 of
Norwegian parents. His father was from
Tune, while his mother was a pastor’s
daughter from Oslo. He was the youngest
of four siblings. The family spoke Norwegian
at home and most vacations were spent in
Norway. In fact Rolf always had and still has
a Norwegian passport. He went up to Oxford
8 www.dennorskeklub.co.uk
University as a young student and while
there, apart from his general studies, he
also attended Officer Training Corps (OTC).
Late autumn 1940, just after graduating, he
volunteered for the Royal Air Force having
initially been rejected from the Navy due
to being a Norwegian passport holder. The
RAF accepted him straight away and took
him in as a Voluntary Reservist (VR) in the
RAFVR - perhaps they did not even think
that he was Norwegian; he spoke flawless
English, came from an English university
and even had a background in OTC. The
RAF training started with flying the Tiger
Moth, the Oxford training plane and finally
when operational he flew Beaufort torpedo
planes as he joined the Coastal Command.
By 1942 Rolf flew maritime reconnaissance
in the eastern parts of the Mediterranean.
His hope had originally been that he would
fly in the north Atlantic and along the
Norwegian coast, however that was not to
be. The Mediterranean theatre of war was
in dire need of planes and good pilots. He
soon found himself flying missions against
German and Italian targets all over the
Mediterranean. Rolf was involved in the
North Africa campaign in 1942 just before
the Second Battle of El Alamein and took
part in chasing the Germans westwards
after the breakthrough. Later in ’43 he
was operating out of Malta flying Vickers
Wellingtons and attacking enemy convoys.
This was a hazardous situation with German
fighters out of Sicily targeting any RAF
aircrafts. The trick against German fighters
according to Rolf was to fly as low as
possible above the sea to avoid attack,
usually at 50 feet. The Germans would then
be reluctant to swoop down to attack as
they usually did, in fear of crashing into the
sea. In the summer of ‘43 he was sent back
to England to become a flight instructor.
Rolf also received the Distinguished Flying
Cross and had an audience with King
Haakon VII, who received him in his embassy
residence. Later in the war he joined the
Transport Command, flying Dakotas and
was based at Hendon in north London flying
VIPs to many destinations around the world.
He was part of a small group of pilots who Rolf Christophersen
looking at log book
flew out to the Crimea peninsula to prepare
the airport for the hugely important Yalta
conference. Rolf also carried out many of products. In addition, he was deeply
special VIP missions. He flew the Duke of involved with the Norwegian community in
Windsor - previously King Edward VIII after London. He has held both managerial and
his abdication, the Belgian Prince Regent board positions over a number of years in
Charles, Lord Trenchard and Prime Minister the Anglo-Norse Society, in Norway House,
Clement Attlee (on his first official flight as in the Norwegian Club and in the Norwegian
PM) to name some of the most prominent. Seamen’s Church in London. Rolf and
A special memory for Rolf is the time when Angela are still very active in the Norwegian
he flew the British judges to the trial of the community. For his efforts in promoting
German war criminals in Nuremberg. Norwegian-British relations Rolf has received
As the war ended the St. Olav’s medal. And this year he also
Rolf’s flight got a special Diploma from the Norwegian
logbook tallied Defence Attaché in the UK, John Andreas
up to over 2,300 Olsen, thanking him from the Government
flying hours. of Norway for ‘Valuable service in helping to
He left the RAF restore freedom to our land’.
and only kept
Rolf Christophersen is a very private person
flying after that
and doesn’t really want any fuss over what
as an occasional
he did during the war, however DNK/
pastime. After the
the Norwegian Club would like to join in
war Rolf worked
celebrating the achievements of this now
for Svenska
98-year-old gentleman.
Tändsticks AB
in London (later Swedish Match). There he A special thanks to Ole Jørgen Maaø, at
remained through his professional life as Luftkrigsskolen in Trondheim for written
director of their business in the UK and a and photographic contributions to this
number of factories, dealing with a variety article.

www.dennorskeklub.co.uk 9
 The 2019 edition of Den Norske Klub
Fårikål Supper was the first hosted at
our home premises, The In & Out Club.

DNK Fårikål Supper

The first hosted at the club
Text by Pauline Houpillart

E
very year on the last Thursday of
September, DNK celebrates the
national dish of Norway, the Fårikål.
The traditional meal consists of slow-cooked
mutton, cabbage, black pepper and boiled
potatoes. It became the national dish in the
early 1970s.
Members and their guests were welcomed
with a glass of Champagne in the Canning
Room on arrival. The attendees then made
their way to the beautiful Astor Room for
the meal itself. Everyone was comfortably
sat on a large table in front of a cosy log fire.

10 www.dennorskeklub.co.uk
 The evening’s dining commenced with a
fabulous Waldorf salad and a glass of Italian
white wine. The much anticipated Fårikål
followed, accompanied by a glass or two of
Merlot. The succulent pieces of mutton made
for a sumptuous and very well received dish.
For dessert, there was a delicious apple tatin
with ginger ice cream. Coffee and chocolate
was on offer to finish. Aquavit was also
present throughout!
Conversations and beverages continued to
flow as diners decanted to the Long Bar.
Special thanks to Gary, Brian and Alicja for
their impeccable organisation.
We look forward to seeing you all at the
upcoming Fredagspils and Julebord.

www.dennorskeklub.co.uk 11
 Lofoten Raid
English troops arriving at Svolvær
harbor with local population
watching and celebrating
The Lofoten Islands in Northern
Norway are well known as a
popular tourist destination, which
in recent years has also become
quite trendy. When I visited this
summer I even managed to play golf
at the “Lofoten Links”. In winter
it is one of the best places in the
world to see the Northern Lights.
12
Text by Captain Rasmus L. Falck
I
n March 1941 350 officers and men from
No.3. and No.4. Commandos, supported
by a section of Royal Engineers and
52 Norwegians including Captain Martin
Linge took part in the first large-scale
Commando raid, which was launched
on four ports in the Lofoten. The raid,
codenamed Operation Claymore, proved
to be a considerable success.
www.dennorskeklub.co.uk
Perhaps the most significant outcome of the
raid was the capture of a set of rotor wheels
for an Enigma cypher machine and its code
books from the German armed trawler
Krebs. German naval codes could be read
at Bletchly Park, providing the intelligence
needed to allow Allied convoys to avoid
U-boat concentrations.
Lofoten is just off the Norwegian coast and
inside the Arctic Circle about 1.400 km from
Britain. One objective was to destroy fish
oil-producing factories. All the oil produced
was being shipped to Germany, which
extracted the glycerine, a vital ingredient
in the manufacturing of high explosives.
They were targeted in accordance with
Churchill’s directive to harass German forces
in occupied Europe.
The commandos were transported aboard
the new infantry landing ships, escorted
by four Tribal-class and one L-class of
the 6th Destroyer Flotilla. A coordinated
landing was planed at 06:00 hours, but
was postponed by 15 minutes so that they
would not be landing in total darkness. They
had four separate destinations, Stamsund,
www.dennorskeklub.co.uk
Henningsvaer, Svolvaer and Brettesnes.
The intense cold and sea spray caused ice
to form on the commandos’ protective
clothing.
The surprise was complete. German soldiers,
officials and collaborators were rounded up
and before long fish oil factories, buildings
used for military purpose and ships in the
harbor, were systematically blown up. The
Norwegians provided hot ersatz coffee for
the commandos. The commandos destroyed
eleven factories, 800.000 gallons of oil
was put on fire and ten ships were sunk.
They gave free passage to 314 volunteers
(including 8 women) for the Free Norwegian
Forces in Britain and took into custody 60
quislings and 225 German prisoners. By
13:00 the ships had embarked all the troops
and were ready to sail. The only cost to the
Allies was an accidental self-inflicted wound
to an officer’s tight!
The Germans made reprisals and burned
down several homes and about 100 random
picked Norwegians were sent to Grini,
the largest prison camp in Norway (my
grandfather, a member of DNK, was there).
Troops disembaring in Svolvær
Continued overleaf
13
 Nazi flag brought
back as a trophy

Luftwaffe radio operators

captured in Kabelvåg

14 www.dennorskeklub.co.uk
 The raid demonstrated what could be
achieved by a relative small, well trained
unit, with the element of surprise. The main
value according to many was to tie up large
German forces. The Germans eventually
increased the number of troops. By 1944 the
German garrison in Norway was 370.000
men strong. It was, however, most notable
for boosting flagging morale within the
ranks of the commandos and the country,
as news of its success was made public.

Lofoten War Museum in Svolvær After the operation the Norwegian

Independent Company 1 was established for
operations in Norway (Kp Linge). The ikon
Martin Linge was later killed in the Måløy
Raid.
The Lofoten War Museum in Svolvaer, with
a section on the raid, is a must!
Thanks to William Hakvaag/Lofoten War
Museum in Svolvær for the pictures.

Display from Lofoten War Museum

Today’s Lofoten – the pearl of the North

www.dennorskeklub.co.uk 15
NEW!
Fly directly from
Liverpool to Bergen
FROM

£69
Book at wideroe.co.uk
*

Flight will operate

Mondays and Fridays
from 10 August.
* One -way incl . t a xe s. Ter m s
and condit ion s w il l apply.
I N V E S TO R CO R N E R
Progress in trade talks and a corporate report
season that is better so far than feared are
buoying the market mood. Global stock markets,
measured using the MSCI World Index in US
dollar has gained about 16% since 2019 began,
while the Oslo Bors All shares index is up 10%
at the time of writing (23 October).
Brighter political outlook
generating hope, despite
weak statistics
Continued progress on the trade front
There has been a partial trade agreement
between the United States and China and
the postponement of October tariff hikes.
White House economic advisor Larry
Kudlow is saying that US tariff hikes on
Chinese goods announced for December
may also be halted. We believe that this
may also be in President Donald Trump’s
best interest, since these tariffs would affect
consumer products to a greater extent and
thereby directly hurt voters. Meanwhile
investors are wondering whether this trade
war cease-fire will actually last.
Chinese GDP growth is decelerating
China’s 6% gross domestic product
(GDP) growth for Q3 was somewhat
below expectations and was the lowest
in 30 years. On the plus side, a slight
manufacturing recovery was apparent
in September, while retail sales stayed
relatively strong.
Our view
Recent hope of progress in political
processes has provided support to
stock markets. The current signals from
US-Chinese trade talks are constructive,
with new tariffs being postponed, while
negotiations on UK withdrawal from the EU
are pointing towards decreased risk of a
“hard Brexit” (no-deal withdrawal).
www.dennorskeklub.co.uk
Tore Mauseth
Head of the Norwegian team
at SEB Private Banking Luxembourg
Dovish signals from central banks are
providing support, while long-term bond yields
have largely continued their downward trend,
though with extensive fluctuations. However,
we are seeing continued signals of deceleration
in the real economy. In the economic news in
October both US industrial production and
Chinese GDP growth were more anaemic than
expected. Meanwhile European statistics are
pointing to a weak growth picture. Germany
must be regarded as technically in a recession.
The uncertain economic situation, along with
stock markets at high levels, suggests more
fluctuations ahead – especially since the Brexit
drama may provide new surprises, in a Europe
shaken by weak economic statistics.
Because of continued extremely low
bond yields and interest rates, the lack of
alternatives to equities is striking. Meanwhile
credit spreads (the gap between government
and corporate bond yields) are being
squeezed by the search for returns, combined
with renewed central bank stimulus measures.
We have a continued cautious attitude
towards stock markets in the near term,
while awaiting the results from all quarterly
corporate reports. The reports published so
far at the time of writing must be regarded as
better than previously feared, but with stock
market indices close to earlier peaks there
is an obvious risk that good news is already
priced in.
17
 CoScan
Drinks Party
Text by Vegard Brinksjord

The 16th of October, DNK was invited to

attend as guests at the Confederation of
Scandinavian Societies (“CoScan”) drinks
party at the Savile Club of 69 Brook Street.
CoScan acts as a coordinating body for
societies which work for cultural exchange
between UK and Ireland on the one hand
and the Scandinavian countries.

CoScan host Alexander Malmaeus

18 www.dennorskeklub.co.uk

F
ounded in 1950, CoScan is an
autonomous non-profit making
organisation funded by subscriptions
from its affiliated member societies (currently
counting about 30 societies) and individual
members, by voluntary contributions and
fund-raising activities.
DNK was also invited for last year’s
event, and for this year’s event, DNK was
represented by Christian Hvamstad and
Vegard Bringsjord. The purpose of the event
being to foster relationships between the
different societies and to provide awareness
around the different societies, their work, and
their missions.
The event started off with networking with
drinks and canapés, before our host CoScan
and Alexander Malmaeus started the more
formal part of the evening. Alexander
welcomed the members, guest societies
and the guest of honour, the Very Reverend
Katarina Bäckelin (the new Rector of the
Swedish congregation in London, before he
invited the member societies to give a brief
presentation of their work. The societies
present included, amongst others, the Anglo-
www.dennorskeklub.co.uk
CoScan meeting
Danish Society, the Anglo-Norse Society in
both Oslo and London, the Anglo-Swedish
society, Danske Kvinder and Grieg society.
Subsequent to the member societies
presentations, the guests were invited to
give a presentation. The guest included
the Society of Swedish Engineers in Great
Britain, London Swedes and last, but not
least, DNK.
After having thanked our gracious hosts,
DNK gave a presentation of our ongoing
and future events, as well as giving a
brief introduction to history of the club
and our premises, subsequently the other
Scandinavian societies were cordially invited
to join our Fredagspils.
Hopefully we will see even more guest
joining our events from the other
Scandinavian societies for our events going
forward.
For more information about CoScan
use this link https://www.coscan.org.uk
19
Foto: Stein Lindseth Olsen/Anunatak AS

Foto: nsb.no
Europe’s most spectacular Train Journeys
Discover Norway by train for an unforgettable The trains in Norway are comfortable as well
holiday experience. as environmentally friendly. Just take your
seat, relax and enjoy the scenery.
Norway has many scenic railways, of which the
four most spectacular are the Rauma, Bergen, The www.nsb.no/travel_inspiration site
Nordland and Dovre Railways. From your window contains infomercials presenting the
you will see mighty mountain ranges, river routes and the unique travel
valleys, waterfalls, lakes, glaciers and fjords. experiences that await you.
You will travel through authentic and charming
rural communities. From the variation in Welcome on board!
altitude, in a single trip you might experience
both snow and glaciers and the green fields of
summer.

For more information and bookings

nsb.no tel. + 47 815 00 888
Inviting offers and low-price tickets online from NOK 249

Popular tour packages and rail passes

Fjordtours.com tel. + 47 815 68 222
Raileurope.com tel. + 1 888-438RAIL
Scandinavianrail.com tel. + 1 866-938-7245
Eurail.com Rail passes
Interrail.eu Rail passes for Europeans

The Nordland Railway – The train to the midnight sun

The Dovre Railway – The trail of the trolls
Europe’s most
The Rauma Railway – The most beautiful train journey spectacular
The Bergen Railway – The train track to the fjords train journeys
D I S COV E RY

On the cross roads between East and

West with desert citadels, colourful
medressas and bustling bazaars,
Uzbekistan is a treasure trove for
any traveller looking to discover the
beauty of the Silk Road. Only 1000
British tourists visit a year so it’s a
chance to explore a lesser visited
region before the hordes get there.

AT THE HEART OF THE

SILK ROAD Text and photos by Constanse Bowes-Lyon

U
zbekistan was at the heart of the
Silk Road, a network of trade
routes connecting East and West
from the 2nd century BCE to the 18th
century. However, goods were not
the only commodity traded; religion,
technology, philosophies and science were
all exchanged as part of the vast network.
As a result, the region and particularly,
Uzbekistan, is a melting pot of people,
history and architecture.
The earliest settlers were Eastern Iranian
nomads before becoming part of the
Iranian Achaemenid Empire followed
by Macedonian Greek rule before again
becoming part of the Iranian Parthian and
Sasanian Empire. Following the Muslim
conquest in the 7th century, a majority of
the population converted to Islam, which
remains the largest religion in the country
today. The Muslim conquest was followed
by Mongol conquest and domination by
Turkic people including the warlord Timur.
Uzbek Shaybanids conquered the area in
the 16th century before it was gradually
Continued overleaf
www.dennorskeklub.co.uk 21
 incorporated into the Russian empire in
the 19th century. Following the breakup
of the Soviet Union, Uzbekistan became
independent in 1991.
After a seven flight from London via
Nur – Sultan in Kazakhstan we landed in
Uzbekistan. We started our journey in the
capital Tashkent. Close to the Kazakhstan
border, Tashkent is the capital and largest
city in Uzbekistan and Ex – Soviet Central
Asia. A 1966 earthquake destroyed
the majority of the city, which was
subsequently rebuilt as a model Soviet
City. Mainly seen as a transit hub few
tourists visit.
We decided to spend a few days exploring
the city where highlights included a US$5
visit to opera with front row seats and
haggling in bazaars. It was also a chance
to try local cuisine such as plov, manti
and lag’mon and see the awe – inspiring
underground stations. We also quickly
learnt that every car is a potential taxi (at
the cost of $1) and that haggling using
the calculator on your phone will be your
second most used item (after your camera).
22
A few days later and short one-hour flight
on Uzbek airlines we landed in Samarkand,
which would turn out to be the highlight of
our trip.
Bustling Bazaars
There are incredible bazaars across
Uzbekistan selling colourful embroidered
hats, belts, furs, jackets, perfume, spice and
sweets. Anything the heart desires can be
found in the bazaars. We spent a few hours
in each city visited exploring the bazaars
and picking up items to fill our suitcases.
Ancient Cities & Architecture
Cities like Samarkand, Khiva and Bukhara
thrived and grew rich because of the Silk
Road trade. A number of photogenic
mosques, mausoleums and madras are
scattered around the cities with Registan,
being perhaps the most famous.
Registan or “Sandy Place” in Tajik, was the
commercial centre of medieval Samarkand
and likely home to a wall to wall bazaar.
Earthquakes damaged the medressas over
the years however; the Soviets went to
www.dennorskeklub.co.uk
great length to restore. Today is one of
the grandest squares in Central Asia or the
world with stunning, colourful medressas.
Next to Registan is Bibi – Khanym mosque,
one of the biggest and most ornate
mosques in central Asia. Other highlights
and our personal favourite include Shah –
I – Zinda or the Tomb of the Living King,
colourful avenues of mausoleums with
incredible tilework. The name is believed to
refer to the grave of Qusam ibn – Abbas,
who is credited with bringing Islam to
region in the 7th century. A short tax ride
away lies archaeological digs and Daniel’s
supposed grave, both worth a visit.
Samarkand left us awe – struck and fulfilled
so we decided to visit Bukhara, another
pearl on the Silk Road.
After a 2 hour train journey followed by
a short taxi ride, we arrived in Bukhara.
Bukhara has a multitude of architectural
sites with more 140 scattered across the
city. The old city centre is also for the
reason designated a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. Highest on our list to see
was Kalon Mosque and Minaret, the only
www.dennorskeklub.co.uk
structures Chinggis Khan didn’t destroy on
his Central Asia rampage. Colourful tiles
cover the mosque and medressa whereas
the minaret is a mud construct.
Other highlights were the Ark, a 5th
century fortress structure in the city
centre. Previously the residence of the
emirs of Bukhara, today it’s a museum
and opportunity to explore the lives of
people from centuries past. Char Minar,
often seen as the best example of Silk
Road architecture, is another highlight, as
is the former merchant’s home now turned
museum and example of every day life.
Just outside the city is also the Sitoi-i-Mokhi
Khosa, the summer palace of the emirs
of Bukhara and well worth a visit before
returning either to Tashkent or Samarkand.
Following eight adventure packed days we
returned to Nur – Sultan and London, filled
with memories for a life time.
23
Vikings, Northern
Lights and Norse - Pure Adventure -
drinking culture
The founders behind the world’s
northernmost distillery unite Norse
drinking culture and modern
production technology.
Far out in the Lyngen fjord, 70 km
from Tromsø, you will find the world’s
northernmost distillery – in a funkis
building that defies the Arctic landscape
with its modern and ecological
construction technique.
Aurora Spirit Distillery produces
alcohol and cater to tourists. ”The glue
between these two business areas is our
ancient Norse heritage”, says CEO Tor
Petter Weien Christensen.

”Our ancestors, the Vikings, were the

same as us, concerned with good drinks
and good stories”.
Aurora Spirit owns the brand ”Bivrost”,
which is mentioned several places in old
Norwegian and Icelandic poetry.
«In Norse mythology Bivrost is referred to
as the road between Midgard and Asgard.
In the northern parts of Scandinavia,
it was considered to be the northern
lights,” Christensen says.
“Even though our production equipment
is very modern and Hi-Tech, it can not
substitute good raw materials. And in
Arctic Norway we have some of the best.
During ”the Arctic Day” (Which lasts
2 months) the midnight sun makes all
plants grow continuosly, which provides
more sugar, vitamins and antioxidants.
This accounts for the special taste in all
arctic berries”, explains Christensen.
”We explain the benefits of arctic
ingredients to all who visits us in our
remarkable visitor center, which is also
designed to convey all the lush stories
from the Viking Age”.
The combination of tourism and alcohol
production seems to work: The Distillery
has received high ranking awards for
both their products and the visitor
center. The company is in international
expansion, and recently started export
to UK, partnering up with Ethnic Brand
Marketing.
Read more about Bivrost at:
www.bivrost.com.
 In the King Harald V room
which is full of paintings of the
Norwegian Royal family stands
a single bust in pride of place
on the fireplace of a man and
it is not of a royal person. The
man is Fridtjof Nansen. Next
year it will be 90 years since
this genuinely world famous
Norwegian passed away. It is
worth having a look at his life
and pivotal role in the making
of modern Norway.

FRIDTJOF
NANSEN

26 www.dennorskeklub.co.uk
O
ver the stretch of a lifetime most
of us hope to get the chance to
achieve a few important things and
collect a few precious memories. Very few
though have had such a life and achieved
as much as Fridtjof Nansen had at the time
when he passed away in 1930. His life was
full to the brim as explorer of the Arctic,
scientist, writer, humanist, ambassador,
international politician and Nobel Peace
Price laureate.
Nansen was born in 1861 at the height of the
Swedish-Norwegian Union in Store Frøen
not far from the capital Kristiania, now part
of modern Oslo. The young Nansen was
always interested in nature and studied
zoology at University. He was especially
fascinated by the Arctic after some trips
north as a student and it would become
his lifelong obsession. Having finished his
doctorate in 1888 and secured a position at
Bergen Museum’s zoological department,
he left for the Arctic with a group of
friends. Nansen was already well known
in Norway. Having in the winter of 1884
crossed the snow covered central Norway
www.dennorskeklub.co.uk
on skis, from Bergen to the capital on his
own. The event was a sensation as no one
had done anything like this before. Nansen
published a successful book about the trip
which still is a wonderful read.
The trip in 1888 had expanded this theme
and he and his companions took on
Greenland. The expedition’s crossing by ski
over the massive inland ice and returning
the following spring, made the young
Norwegian an international phenomenon.
Fridtjof Nansen was celebrated and lauded
on his lecture tours in Copenhagen, Norway
and later in London.
Nansen married his fiancé in 1889 and
started a family, but his mind was always
on the Arctic. In 1893 he secured funds
for an expedition with the aim to reach
the North Pole by ship. With his specially
commissioned ship ‘Fram’, the hope was
that the flow of the ice would get the ship
and its crew across the Pole. This did not
come to pass. In the spring of -95 Nansen
therefore left the Fram in the ice and set
off on foot with sledges, dogs and his
companion Hjalmar Johansen towards
Continued overleaf
27
 Fridtjof Nansen 1897
the Pole. 14 months later he and Hjalmar
returned, having been assumed to be lost.
They had got as far as 86° 4’ north before
they turned back, a record at the time. Not
locating the Fram on their way back they
had survived the harsh winter by shooting
and eating polar bears, until they were found
in May -96 on Frans Josef’s Land by the
British polar explorer Frederick G. Jackson.
Following this return Fridtjof Nansen, the
Arctic Explorer, was world famous and his
books covering his adventures in the icy
North sold across the world.
As the new century came Fridtjof Nansen
had become an important participant in a
growing Norwegian nationalist movement
to gain independence from Sweden. By
1905 the political situation came to a head
and Norway won its independence. Nansen
was sent by the Norwegian Prime minister
to Britain as Norway’s first ambassador
to promote the new sovereign nation.
He had regular meetings with the British
government and King Edward VII, who
he got to know quite well. Nansen also
negotiated with Denmark’s Prince Carl,
28
following the Norwegian government and
people’s wish to set up a monarchy. Fridtjof
Nansen helped to persuade the prince to
accept the Norwegian crown and took the
name King Haakon VII of Norway.
Following the end of WW1, Nansen became
president of the Norwegian League of
Nations Society and worked tirelessly to
help Norway become a full member. This
was realised in 1920 and he became one
of Norway’s delegates. In April 1920, at the
League’s request, Nansen began organising
the repatriation of around half a million
prisoners of war, stranded in various parts
of the world. Of these, 300,000 were in
Russia which was gripped by revolution and
civil war. The main issue for the refugees
was that most of them lacked documentary
proof of identity or nationality. Without legal
status in their country of refuge, their lack
of papers meant they were unable to go
anywhere else. To overcome this, Nansen
devised a document that became known as
the “Nansen passport”, a form of identity
for stateless persons that was in time
recognised by more than 50 governments.
www.dennorskeklub.co.uk
 Fridtjof Nansen boots and knife

Ambassadors uniform

Fridtjof Nansen’s
Polhøgda study room

Continued overleaf
www.dennorskeklub.co.uk 29
 For this and his humanitarian efforts he was
awarded the Nobel Peace Prize for 1922.
From 1901 until his death in 1930, Fridtjof
Nansen lived at his wonderful manor home
Polhøgda in Oslo. In 1958 The Fridtjof
Nansen Foundation at Polhøgda was
established to conduct research within
the areas of interest of Nansen. From this
developed the Foundations research arm,
the Fridtjof Nansen Institute (FNI), engaged
in research on international environmental,
energy and resource management politics
and law.
Den Norske Klub is proud to have our
Fridtjof Nansen’s skis
wonderful bust of Nansen, Norway’s first
ambassador to Britain. We also have in our
storeroom, a pair of skis that once belonged Fram - The Polar Exploration Museum is
to Fridtjof Nansen. We hope to display these definitely worth a visit, telling the story of
in the future. Norwegian polar exploration. There one can
among many other things see Nansen’s polar
Polhøgda is well worth visiting if in Oslo. The
ship Fram. The museum is located on the
building is not open to the general public,
peninsula of Bygdøy in Oslo
but the large garden is always available. In
the garden and prominently placed in front Link: https://frammuseum.no
of the manor, is Fridtjof Nansen’s grave. Thanks to Fridtjof Nansen Institute for the
Link: https://www.fni.no use of Polhøgda and archive photographs.

30 www.dennorskeklub.co.uk
 DEN NORSKE KLUB
MERCHANDISE
CUP

CUFFLINKS TIE

Den Norske Klub cups, ties, cufflinks and tie-pins can now
be bought directly from the Babmaes reception.
www.dennorskeklub.co.uk 31
We are expanding our
international Norwegian
Private Banking team
Living and working abroad? Our goal is to
understand your future needs and ambitions.
Wherever life might take you, we are ready
to assist.

To find out more, please contact

Helena Whitmore or Daniel Wikehult
on +44 (0) 20 7246 4225
or privatebanking@seb.co.uk

Skandinaviska Enskilda Banken AB (publ) (SEB)

sebgroup.com/privatebanking

This communication is made by SEB London Branch for informational purposes only.
Our London Branch is available to introduce you to the SEB Private Banking network outside
the United Kingdom. SEB London Branch is authorised by the Swedish Financial Supervisory
Authority and subject to limited regulation by the Financial Conduct Authority (FCA) and
Prudential Regulation Authority (PRA). Details about the extent of our regulation by the
FCA and PRA are available from us on request.