Professional Documents
Culture Documents
lid boxes
NOTE:
Cut pieces
to final width a.
after cutting
A finger joints
B BACK
SIDE
!/8"-deep
groove
for lid
C
BOTTOM
(3!!/16" x 5!!/16")
B
3!/8" SIDE
b.
A
3!/8"
FRONT Waste
6"
NOTE:
All pieces
4" !/4"-thick stock !/4"
Finger Joints
The nice thing about building boxes with finger joints is that you don’t
need any special tools. And you can start and finish a box in a day.
1so it’s slightly below the thick- 2 that will fit tight in the notch
4). But I don’t just use any scraps that After setting the blade height Next, you’ll need to size a key
happen to be lying around. Instead,
I make my test pieces identical to ness of the stock, cut a notch in that was just cut in the fence.
my final pieces in width and thick- the fence (and the ledge). Then glue it in place.
ness (but not necessarily length). I
even use the same type of wood. This
way, I can use these test pieces later
when plugging the holes left by the { When setting up
grooves for the bottom. a finger joint jig,
Using a second key to set the first I make any
will get you close. But you’ll probably micro-adjustments
still need to “tweak” the fence one “visible” by draw-
way or the other, see box and tip in ing a line across
margin at right. It’s important to be
patient; it will probably take several 3 Now, using a spacer the same
width as the key, move the 4 Test the setup and make
needed adjustments to the
the jig and table.
adjustments (and test cuts) before fence so the spacer fits between fence and the blade. Then screw
the fit is perfect. the key and the blade. the fence to the miter gauge.
I like to end up with a snug fit so
that when dry assembling the pieces, the miter gauge, I set the height To set the blade height, I position
I have to work the pieces a bit to press of the saw blade. Of course, when the workpiece next to the blade. I start
the fingers together and pull them you’re done, you want the fingers with the blade below the height of the
apart. This way, I can usually avoid per fectly flush with the mating workpiece and sneak up on the final
using clamps when gluing the boxes pieces. But here, when setting the height as I test the fit (box below).
together. But more on that later. blade, I let the fingers protrude just This way, the fence will back up the
SETTING THE BLADE. After the key is set slightly — less than 1⁄64". (I’ll sand cut, and there will be less chance for
and the fence has been screwed to them flush later.) chipout when cutting the fingers.
fine adjustments
Loose fit. If there’s a gap between Tight fit. If the fingers won’t fit
each finger, simply slide the key into the slots at all, then slide the
and fence away from the blade. key and fence towards the blade.
Short fingers. If the blade is set Long fingers. If the fingers extend
too low, the fingers will be short, too far, the saw blade is too high
so raise the saw blade slightly. and needs to be lowered.