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Tourism, Culture & Communication, Vol. 12, pp. 1–000 1098-304X/13 $60.00 + .

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Body Piercing in “Modern Primitivism” and in Thailand’s


Vegetarian Festival: A Comparative Study

Erik Cohen

Professor Emeritus of Sociology, The Hebrew University, Jerusalem, Israel

Western “modern primitivists” and spirit mediums at the Vegetarian Festival in southern Thailand
are the leading practitioners of body piercing in the contemporary world. This comparative study
finds that they share a similar marginal social background and aspirations for individual distinction
though body piercing, but differ radically in the cultural context, specific practices, and kinds of
objects used for piercing. “Modern primitivists” are pierced by relatively small piercing objects,
which combine with tattoos as part of their everyday attire. Entranced spirit mediums, believed to be
possessed by Chinese deities, tend to be pierced by spectacular piercing objects, but only during the
Chinese shrines’ street processions in course of the annual Vegetarian Festival. In contrast to the
“modern primitivists,” who are shunned by mainstream society, the spirit mediums are worshipped
as deities by devotees, and constitute a major, but ambiguous attraction for foreign tourists: while
piercings are “real,” and hence “authentic,” the sight of gruesome self-mutilation by some pierced
mediums may offend the tourists’ sensibilities. The article concludes with the observation that some
“authentic” sights might be too hard for some tourists to bear and will hence repel rather than attract
them. “Bearability” is thus a factor mitigating the attractiveness of such sights.

Key words: Body modification; Body mutilation; Modern primitives; Spirit mediums;
Vegetarian Festival; Southern Thailand

(VI 16.3.11 (8917”)


Denn das Schöne ist nichts
als des Schrecklichen Anfang, den wir noch grade ertragen,
und wir bewundern es so, weil es gelassen verschmäht,
uns zu zerstören. In jeder Engel ist schreklich

(For Beauty’s nothing


but beginning of Terror we’re still just able to bear,
and why we adore it so is because it serenely
disdains to destroy us. Each single angel is terrible).
(Rainer Maria Rilke: Duineser Elegien, First Elegy, 1911)

Address correspondence to Erik Cohen, Professor Emeritus of Sociology, The Hebrew University of Jerusalem, Mt. Scopus, Jerusalem
91905, Israel. Tel: +66-2-5782491; E-mail: mserik@mscc.huji.ac.il

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2 COHEN

Introduction cosmetic procedures, as well as different forms of


mutilation, such as skin incision, tattooing, cutting,
Body piercing has been perceived in the Western piercing, and branding, has in recent years attracted
world as a mark of savagery of “primitive” people. the critical attention of theorists of postmodernity
The traces of that perception survive to this day in (e.g., Featherstone, 2000; Pitts, 2003; Schildkrout,
cartoons, in which “savages” are often depicted 2004; Turner, 1999). However, their studies have
with bones, or similar objects, stuck through their been exclusively concerned with the emergence
noses or ears. Body piercing was one of the first and growing popularity of such practices in con-
traits of their appearance, besides nakedness, which temporary Western societies.
Western colonial administrators and missionaries Critics of the emergence of “body arts” (Jeffreys,
demanded them to abandon in the process of “civi- 2000) and of “body marks” (Turner, 1999) in the
lization.” However, even as the last remnants of West tend to lump together various forms of body
“primitive” people displayed their nose-piercings mutilation (e.g., Jeffreys, 2000, Turner, 1999,
in the Mt. Hagen and Goroka tribal festivals on the Wohlrab, Stahl, & Kappeler 2007) in their studies,
New Guinean highlands (Lingis, 2009), body pierc- and to pay little attention to the peculiarities of each
ing underwent a popular revival in two parts of the practice. Piercing, as one of the most severe forms
world: On the one hand, in the urban youth subcul- of body mutilation, has received little specific
tures of the contemporary West, and especially attention in the body modification literature.
among the non-mainstream (Klesse, 1999), self- Of all forms of body modification, only cosmetic
mutilating Neo-Primitive (Atkinson & Young, procedures offered by foreigner-oriented hospitals
2001) or “modern primitivist” (Klesse 1999, Turner in less developed countries to “medical tourists”
1999) movements, and on the other hand, in some from developed countries have received some
Asian religious festivals, especially in the Hindu attention in tourism studies (e.g., Cohen, 2010;
Thaipusam in southern India, Singapore (Kong, Connell, 2006; Henderson, 2009). To the best of
2008), and Malaysia (Collins, 1986, 1997; Ward, my knowledge, the various forms of body muti­
1984,) and in the Chinese Vegetarian Festival in lation have never been discussed as a (potential)
southern Thailand (Cohen, 2001; DeBernardi, tourist attraction in the literature, though some,
2009). In the latter, the piercing practices of the especially tattooing and body piercing, may well
spirit mediums reached a degree of diversity and attract tourists, as clients as well as observers.
spectacularity, incomparably higher than in any his- Tattooing seems to be the most socially accept-
toric “primitive” society, or in the non-mainstream able, most widely practiced, and most formally
piercing subcultures in the contemporary West. institutionalized form of body mutilation in the
While the Vegetarian Festival and its rituals contemporary world (DeMello, 2000). It has
have been extensively studied by Cohen (2001, achieved a wide recognition as a form of “body
2008) and by other researchers (DeBernardi, art.” Numerous websites and several periodic pub-
2009, pp. 182–215; Hamilton, 2004, Maud, 2005), lications are devoted to tattooing, and tattoo studios
the practices of self-afflicted mutilation, and spe- in many countries offer a huge choice of tattoo
cifically body piercing by entranced spirit medi- designs. A flourishing international tattooing sub-
ums in the course of festival events, have never culture has emerged, staging hundreds of annual
been investigated from the perspective of contem- tattoo conventions and festivals. But in the absence
porary approaches to body modification. In this of studies, it is not clear whether “tattoo tourism,”
article I shall focus on these practices, and com- as a “special interest” segment of the industry, has
pare their touristic attractiveness to that of modern emerged in the contemporary world.
Western “primitivism.” Tattooing, though painful, is a slow and elabo-
rate process, lacking dramatic tension. In contrast,
body piercing, is a quick and incisive, often spec-
Body Mutilation
tacular, act. The severity of its more extreme forms
Body modification, the temporary or permanent might both titillate and repulse potential observers,
alteration of bodily appearance, involving various holding a fascination akin to that of some forms of

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COMPARATIVE STUDY OF BODY PIERCING 3

“dark tourism” (Bowman & Pezzullo, 2010). In this general population and with their medical threats
article I examine the potential and the limitations of and consequences (Bone, Ncube, Nichols, & Noah
body piercing as a tourist attraction. 2008, Laumann & Derick, 2006). Medical surveys
have shown that piercing is fairly common: about
10% of the present population of England aged 16
Body Piercing in the Contemporary West
and over (Bone et al., 2008) and 14% of the
I depart from a statement by Elizabeth Grosz American population (Laumann & Derick, 2006)
(1994): “The body is . . . a point from which to have had a body piercing (other than of the earlobe)
rethink the opposition between the inside and the in the course of their life. The studies found that the
outside, the public and the private, the self and the phenomenon is most common among young peo-
other, and all the other binary pairs associated with ple, and is more prevalent among women than
mind/body opposition” (p. 21). Body piercing is an among men (Bone et al., 2008).
intrusion into the body that crosses the inside/out- My concern here is with the “non-mainstream”
side boundary, as do some other forms of self-muti- Western piercer subculture (Klesse, 1999), espe-
lation (Favazza, 1998). Like those, body piercing cially with the “modern primitivists,” rather than
involves a swift, often painful penetration of the with piercing in the general population The distinc-
body. But it is distinguished by some peculiar traits: tive social characteristics of body mutilation in
it is a perforation, performed to insert some (remov- “modern primitivism” have been succinctly stated
able) extraneous object into the body. This blurs in Turner’s (1999) discussion of “body marks”:
somewhat the outside/inside distinction, because “body marks in pre-literate societies were perma-
that object is (at least partly) inside the body, but, nent, collective and largely obligatory” (p. 39).
unlike tattooing, scarification, and some other They were “significant in demarcating stages in
forms of permanent body mutilation, does not sexual maturity” (p. 40), and as such served as sta-
become part of it. Body piercing thus possesses a tus symbols. In contrast, Turner argues, in contem-
degree of flexibility, absent in most other forms of porary Western society, “Body marks no longer
body mutilation. Even if perforated holes in the need to indicate or to define gender in the life-cycle
body are permanent, the piercing objects can be and so they become optional, playful and ironic;”
easily removed (Wohlrab et al., 2007, p. 92) and they are no longer “functional” (p. 41). Body marks
replaced by others; in contrast, tattoos are intended in modern primitivism are “narcissistic, playful
to be permanent, and can be removed only with dif- signs to the self” (p. 42). However, they are not a
ficulty and pain (and considerable expense) (Wax, free invention; rather, they are imitations of body
2011). Piercing can therefore more easily keep pace markings of other, earlier cultures (p. 40). Tattoos
with changes in custom or fashion than tattooing. (and, by implication, other body marks, such as
Moderate forms of body piercing, such as the piercings) in contemporary primitivism are thus
piercing of the earlobe, have been practiced in the “parasitic upon the Other and the primitive” (p. 41).
Western world since times immemorial. But, like Students of body piercing and of other forms of
other forms of body mutilation, body piercings body mutilation seem to agree that their growing
have “increased tremendously in popularity” from popularity is rooted in the late modern crisis of
the late 1990s onward, “raising not only in numbers ­personal identity, and is motivated by “wishes to
but also involving a broader range of social classes” create and maintain self-identity, being special and
(Wohlrab et al 2007, p. 87). Novel practices, such distinct from others” (Wohlrab et al., 2007, p. 88).
as the piercing of the navel, tongue, nose, lip, nip- The more extreme, non-mainstream mutilation
ple, and of the genitals, were introduced. practices can be seen as countercultural strategies,
The growing popularity of body piercing began providing people occupying a “despised social sta-
to attract the attention of researchers (Waugh, tus” (Jeffreys, 2000, p. 410), or belonging to
2007; Wohlrab et al., 2007). However, most studies socially disadvantaged groups with “unequal access
of contemporary piercing have been conducted by to power and influence” (p. 414) in mainstream
medical professionals, and are primarily concerned society, with an alternative way of self-expression
with the incidence of various piercing modes in the and identity formation.

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4 COHEN

However, the sociologically oriented studies of ability to endure pain, or even to experience the
body mutilation, though they deal predominantly pain inherent in the procedure (Wohlrab et al.,
with the social significance of their more extreme 2007, p. 90). In particular, “The pain associated
manifestations, show relatively little interest in a with the procedures of body piercing is greatly val-
detailed analysis of various practices, and few pay ued in body modification society” (Wohlrab et al.,
attention to the specifics of the piercing subculture. 2007, p. 91).
It is therefore only possible to sketch out its princi- In Western countries, body mutilation became an
pal characteristics. industry (Jeffreys, 2000, pp. 415–418), with tattoo-
In the contemporary West, non-mainstream tat- ing and body piercing its most popular branches.
tooing and piercings often complement each other. Most piercings are at present performed in studios
However, as Wohlrab et al. (2007) pointed out, by professional piercing practitioners (Bone et al.,
the “relevance and peculiarities of motivations 2008; Jeffreys, 2000, p. 417; Laumann & Derick,
may differ between tattoos and piercings. . . . Perm- 2006). Some studios advertise their work on the
anence promotes a long-lasting decision process Internet, illustrating it “with an extraordinary array
concerning tattoos. . . . In contrast, piercings can be of piercings into all parts of the body” (Jeffreys,
easily removed and do not involve as extensive 2000, p. 418). However, the piercing profession
costs as most tattoos” (p. 92); consequently, the is not (yet) fully institutionalized, and is not com-
authors speculate, “Tattoos obviously contain more prehensively regulated (Jeffreys 2000, p. 419;
personal meaning for the bearer, whereas piercings Laumann & Derick 2006); there exist no profes-
seem to be rather fashionable adornments” (p. 92). sional piercer organizations and no code of ethics
Piercings, according to these authors, are often for piercing practitioners. The practitioners acquire
used as fashion accessories, whereas an increasing their technical skills informally. However, infor-
number of tattooed individuals refer to their tattoos mation is available in the media: from the 1970s
as a piece of art (Wohlrab et al., 2007, p. 88). onward several periodicals dedicated to piercing
In the contemporary West, the piercers are faced have seen light (Ferguson, 1999), and more recently
with a huge variety of mostly industrially produced a growing number of websites devoted to body
piercing jewelry. Since the embellishment of per- piercing emerged on the Internet.
sonal appearance is reportedly the primary motiva- Most piercing practitioners serve a local clientele.
tion for piercing (Wohlrab et al., 2007, p. 88), the A few, however, have acquired a wider reputation,
choice of piercing objects is left to the taste and and became leaders in creating new piercing styles
preferences of the individual piercer. Most com- and in spelling out the basic ideology and the ethical
monly chosen piercing objects are rather discreet, precepts of the profession (Jeffreys, 2000, p. 419).
such as bejeweled pins, needles, or rings. They are While female piercers predominate in the gen-
mostly inserted in the head—particularly in the eral population, the more extreme, non-mainstream
nose, lips, tongue, eyebrows, ears, or in the navel, forms of piercing seem to be practiced primarily by
and more rarely in the nipples or genitals. The males. They constitute a loose subculture of people
wearing of such objects is not restricted to any spe- interested in piercing, subdivided into streams, fol-
cial occasions; they are in daily use and constitute lowing various spiritual or ideological inclinations,
part of the person’s ordinary appearance. among which “modern primitivism” seems to be
Mainstream Western social attitudes to moderate the leading one. Members of the subculture are usu-
new forms of piercing tend to be ambivalent; but ally pierced by a large variety of piercing objects,
the more drastic subcultural forms, practiced by mostly body puncture jewelry, and pins, rings, and
piercing enthusiasts, are offensive to mainstream earrings of various sizes; some of these, such as
society; they therefore became an effective means “American Indian”-style nose rings, are quite con-
to express rebelliousness (Atkinson & Young, spicuous, but most are small and conventional. The
2001; Jeffreys, 2000, p. 417; Turner, 1999). piercer’s “primitive” appearance seems to be
A leading consideration in the choice of more achieved primarily by a combination of tattooing
extreme styles of body mutilation in the contempo- with a multiplicity of relatively undistinguished
rary West is a desire to test or demonstrate the piercing objects.

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COMPARATIVE STUDY OF BODY PIERCING 5

The piercing subculture is a diffuse phenomenon, The major festival events on Phuket and in Trang
lacking a geographical focus or a common lifestyle. town and, more recently, Krabi town (Cohen,
Members are brought together in piercing conven- 2012), attract growing numbers of participants,
tions, but there are no piercing festivals. Unlike the devotees, and tourists from other parts of Thailand,
hippies of the 1960s, the piercing subculture did not Chinese devotees from neighboring countries, and
attract a wide public attention and did not become a Western tourists.
popular tourist attraction, despite the marked exhi- The Vegetarian Festival is basically a festival of
bitionism of some of its practitioners. personal physical and spiritual purification and
The main concern of critical studies of body communal renewal. Its distinctive marks are white
mutilation was to relate its manifestations to late dress and abstention from meat (and some kinds of
modern social trends in the West; however, the vegetables) during the festival period. The gener-
researchers have omitted to ask whether such social ally mild ambience of the festival contrasts sharply
trends can also be found in modernizing non-West- with the extreme forms of self-mutilation and the
ern societies, engendering similar phenomena, spectacular feats performed by entranced spirit
even if the modes of their expression, and hence mediums, particularly in shrines following the
their social acceptability, may be very different Hokkien (i.e., immigrants from the Fujian province
from those in the West—as they are in Thailand’s in China) customs of the festival.
Vegetarian Festival. Spirit mediums play a prominent role in the
Turner’s (1999) dichotomic distinction between shrines’ ritual events, especially in the shrines’
“preliterate” and contemporary Western practices street processions. The number of participating
of “body marks,” while useful for his particular mediums has grown substantially over the years. In
purpose, is incomplete, since it disregards other the processions of the major shrines in Trang town
possible permutations of such practices, which are and on Phuket island participate several hundred
neither obligatory, nor borrowed or “parasitic” on mediums. In the biggest shrine in Phuket town,
other cultures, but have thrived under contempo- Chui Tui, their number had reached about 800 at
rary circumstances on the basis of older traditions. the end of the 20th century (Cohen, 2001, p. 119,
The Vegetarian Festival in southern Thailand is Table 6.1), and has probably increased since. In the
perhaps the most prominent example in the contem- recently introduced conjoint procession of more
porary non-Western world of a recent proliferation than 50 Chinese shrines in Krabi town, a mainland
of various forms of body piercing, and of similar province neighboring Phuket, the number of par-
practices of self-mutilation, such as body cutting. ticipating mediums may in 2010 well have
approached 1,500, as announced on the festival
The Vegetarian Festival in Thailand poster (Cohen, 2012).
Mediums are predominantly male, but the num-
Background
ber of female mediums increased constantly over
The Vegetarian Festival (ngan kin che) is a 9-day the years. Many of the mediums, both male and
Taoist celebration, widely practiced in Chinese female, are pierced by a variety of objects in those
shrines in southern Thailand between the first and processions, while others cut their tongues or backs
ninth day of the ninth month of the Chinese lunar with axes, swords, and other sharp implements. I
calendar (usually late September or early October). shall here focus on the mediums’ body piercing
Though introduced in the region by Chinese immi- practices at the shrines’ street processions, which I
grants in the 19th century, its celebration has gradu- have observed almost annually between 1994 and
ally spread into the southern Thai Buddhist 2011, in the festival’s principal venues, Phuket
population. It principal venue is Phuket island, island (Cohen, 2001, pp. 88–94) and Trang and
which also happens to be the South’s major interna- Krabi towns.
tional tourist destination (Cohen, 2001). The festi-
val’s popularity increased significantly in the last The Spirit Mediums
few decades; it is presently celebrated in more than According to the master narrative regard-
a hundred Chinese shrines throughout the region. ing Chinese spirit mediumship, people with an

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6 COHEN

untoward astrological configuration are ill-fated; increasingly southern Thai, society. Their low social
they will be unhealthy and die young. However, origins are reflected in the low place they entertain
they might strike a deal with one of the lower dei- in the hierarchy of the shrines’ spirit mediums.
ties (or spirits) of the Taoist pantheon, to let the That hierarchy is determined by the position of
deity borrow their body for short periods of time, the deities, possessing the mediums, in the Taoist
and in return, the deity will prolong their life; they pantheon. The highest Taoist gods are believed
become the deity’s medium. As mediums enter into never to possess humans. The higher deities who
trance, their spirit (vinyan) is believed to leave their do, usually possess veteran older mediums of
body, as the deity possesses it; they become the car- Chinese origin, who are ordinarily not pierced, or at
riers of the deity or an “entranced horse” (ma song). most wear a single, short needle through their
This might occur spontaneously, but the medium cheek. The mediums of lower class origins are
might also ask the deity to enter his or her body, as mostly possessed by lower deities and spirits, espe-
is customary in the course of various events during cially those of soldiers of the past; these are believed
the Vegetarian Festival. to demand substantial piecing objects, to demon-
The Chinese term for spirit mediums is tang ki strate their prowess. The lower the status of the
(young man), reflecting the fact that in the past deity (or spirit), the bigger and more intricate its
most mediums were supposed to be young and medium’s piercing objects tend to be; hence, the
male. In Phuket a young man would customarily lower class mediums will usually be the most heav-
serve as a medium for 3 consecutive years; the ily pierced ones. Such intricate piercing objects in
custom thus resembled a male rite-de-passage.
­ turn offer a singular opportunity to the lower class
However, it seems that this custom is not much youths to display their power of endurance, and to
heeded any more. Moreover, female mediums play a conspicuous role in the festival proceedings,
started to participate in the festival some decades thereby gaining a momentary personal distinction,
ago, and their numbers have markedly increased in which evades them in everyday life.
the last few years. In the conjoint procession of Many of the pierced mediums are also exten-
local temples in Krabi town, the number of female sively tattooed, just as are Western piercers. How­
mediums by 2010 approached that of male ones. ever, in the medium’s case, there is only an indirect
An important factor accounting for that increase is connection between the tattooing and the piercing.
the growing popularity in Thailand of the cult of The tattoos are believed to provide their bearers, as
the Mahayanist goddess Kuan Yin (Kwan Im in individuals, with magic protection in everyday life.
Thai); many female mediums are devotees of the The piercing objects are an expression of the pos-
goddess and possessed by her, or by one of her sessing deity’s power, and are not intended to pro-
assistants, during major festival events (Hamil- tect the body of the possessed individual. Tattooing
ton, 1999). is particularly desired by people engaging in dan-
Male mediums are more frequently pierced than gerous, often illicit or criminal, pursuits (Cohen,
female ones, and their piercing objects are more 2009). Many of the heavily tattooed young medi-
intrusive, heavy, and complex. Until recently, only ums are engaged in such questionable activities in
few female mediums have been pierced. The many daily life and take to mediumship to atone for their
mediums of Kwan Im, a high goddess, and those of sins, or to accumulate merit, counterweighing their
her assistants, do not pierce. Nevertheless, from less meritorious activities.
year to year ever more female mediums undergo
piercing; their piercing objects are becoming more
The Piercing Objects
elaborate, a trend that is probably related to the
quest for greater similarity and equality among The shrines’ street processions are the only
genders, which also finds expression in Thailand in event at which the mediums’ bodies are pierced,
other areas, such as in the growing popularity of and various objects inserted through the perfora-
female boxing. tions. The size and variety of the mediums’ pierc-
Most mediums who pierce their body are youths, ing objects proliferated enormously in the last two
belonging to the lower classes of Sino-Thai, and or three decades.

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COMPARATIVE STUDY OF BODY PIERCING 7

When asked about the choice of their piercing deity’s strength and power of endurance, as when
objects, mediums generally offer the standard the medium is pierced by several heavy objects,
answer that the choice was not their own, but was such as two metal rods (Cohen, 2001, Ill. 6.48), or
made by the possessing deity. While that seems to by a thorny plant, which is difficult and painful to
offer a “theological” explanation for the choice, insert in the perforation on his cheek. Except for a
according to another version, particularly common few exceptions, particular deities are not associated
in Phuket, the mediums are supposed to submit to with specific piercing objects; mediums of the
the wishes of their sponsors or companions (pi same deity may thus be pierced by different objects.
liang), regarding the choice of piercing objects. There is some arbitrariness in the choice of such
The pi liang, who accompany, assist, and comfort objects, many of which seem to be devoid of any
the mediums during the piercing process and in the intended symbolic referent, but are chosen solely
course of the procession, are said to decide on the for their distinctiveness, uniqueness, or conspicu-
piercing objects, prepare them, and offer them to ousness. This at least partly reflects a wider ten-
the medium; even if the medium is not particularly dency in contemporary popular Thai culture to
happy with their choice of often heavy or cumber- dissociate a sign from its referent; for example,
some objects, which are difficult to wear during the many Thai girls wear a cross as a decoration, but
long procession, he/she is supposed to defer to their are not Christians, and do not associate the wearing
wishes. The competition between the pi liang of of the cross with Christianity.
different mediums is believed to be a significant As the festival’s magnitude grew and its reputa-
factor in the proliferation of ever more spectacular tion spread during the last two or three decades, the
piecing objects at the festival (Cohen, 2001, p. 133). piercing objects underwent a process of increasing
However, recently such passivity on part of the diversification. While the historical process of the
mediums became increasingly less common. Many emergence of the wide variety of piercing objects
mediums actively seek to chose and prepare their currently displayed in the street processions cannot
own piercing objects, reflecting a growing desire be precisely reconstructed, a sequence of several
on their part for independence and for individ- analytically discernible steps, by which the pierc-
ual distinction. ing objects were gradually transformed from their
Unlike in the Western piercing subculture, pierc- simple original uniformity to their complex con-
ing objects at the festival are not considered to be temporary diversity, can be identified.
“body decorations,” and are not meant to enhance The sequence starts with the only piercing
the medium’s appearance. Aesthetic considerations objects used in the street processions in Phuket in
are absent in the choice of objects and in the manner the middle of the 20th century: short needles, inserted
of their insertion. The piercing often leaves scars in primarily through the male medium’s mouth and
the mediums’ faces, mostly in the region of the cheek, and sometimes through his tongue, ear
mouth, which impairs their physical attractiveness, lobes, brows, chest, or arms (Cohen, 2001, p. 137,
especially that of female piercers, in everyday life. Ill. 3.3–3.8). Some spirit mediums, particularly
The piercing objects at the festival are signifi- those of higher deities, continue this tradition even
cantly bigger, more complex, and more diverse at present (Fig. 1).
than any ordinarily used by contemporary Western The first step of that sequence consists of an
piercers; but they are worn for only a few hours, increase in the length and thickness of the needles:
once a year, and are not part of the bearer’s regular they evolve into skewers. In the Phuket festival,
attire; strictly speaking, it is not the bearer, but the the length of the skewers grew up to several
deity possessing his or her body, who is believed to meters in the late 1990s, so that the authorities
wear them. However, the piercing objects bear no found it necessary to restrict them to 2 meters
relation to the deity’s iconic representation, in the (Cohen, 2001, p. 134). But this restriction was not
sense in which the paraphernalia of Catholic saints enforced, and very long skewers are still in use in
on paintings or sculptures serve as metonyms of the street processions.
events in their life, or of their acts, miracles, or Some mediums are pierced though their cheek
martyrdom. But the piercing objects do express the with a single middle-sized skewer, with only an

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8 COHEN

pair of flowerpots, a pair of images of Chinese


dragons, or even a pair of small bicycles (Fig. 2).
In the third step, various kinds of other sharp-
pointed objects are substituted for the needles or
skewers; various articles, such as knives, swords,
metal rods, scissors, or garden shears are directly
inserted into a perforation through the medium’s
cheek (Cohen, 2001, Ill. 6.42). In some instances
several such objects are inserted into the same per-
foration: for example, three small swords (Cohen,
2001, Ill. 6.47), or two swords and, in the opposite
direction, one of a scissor’s shears (Fig. 3).
In the fourth step, various articles with insertible,
though not sharply pointed, components are directly
pushed through the medium’s cheek. Prominent
among these are various kinds of plants: flowers,
branches of trees or bushes, palm fronds, stems of a
banana bunch, or stalks of thorny plants. But vari-
ous craft or industrial articles are also used as pierc-
ing objects, their suitable components inserted into
a big perforation on the medium’s cheek: the han-
dle of an axe, the pole of a beach umbrella, the bar-
rel of a gun, the plastic tube of diving equipment, a
chain, or even a big TV dish antenna (Fig. 4).
In the fifth step, some articles that have no
straightforwardly insertible parts, are used as pierc-
ing objects: electric fans, hand-saws, trophy cups,
Figure 1.  Female spirit medium of higher deity, pierced by even bicycles are dismantled, a suitable component
a single needle, Krabi, Conjoint Shrines street procession, passed through the perforation on the cheek, and
2010. then reassembled, to be worn by the medium in the
procession (Fig. 5).
apple or orange stuck on its sharp end, to protect A final step in the sequence is reached when
the public (Cohen, 2001, Ill. 6.31). At the Vegetarian mediums or their pi liang contrive their own pierc-
Festival in Penang, spirit mediums are pierced by ing objects; these are mostly products of fantasy,
similar single skewers, which DeBernardi (2009, such as contraptions made of pieces of metal or
Ill. p. 184) calls “spears.” However, in southern metal pipes, rather than articles with any recogniz-
Thailand, mediums often pierce themselves with able external referent, which are then in one way or
two or more such skewers. Particularly popular is a another inserted in the medium’s cheek (Fig. 6).
set of five relatively short skewers (or thick nee- This sequence indicates that, despite the substan-
dles), to which the heads of the generals of the tive diversification of the piercing objects, most
armies of the five cardinal directions (North, South, still share a basic common trait: they are all basi-
East, West, and Center) are attached; some medi- cally “needles,” even if they are many steps remote
ums even pierce themselves with two such sets from the initial objects. There is thus considerable
(Cohen, 2001, Ill. 6.40). “orthogenetic” continuity in the process of trans-
In the second step of the process, the skewers formation of the piercing objects.
become the basis onto which a wide variety of other But the festival also features another innovative
objects can be stuck, attached, or hung, ranging practice, which is not rooted in local tradition, nor
from pineapples, flags, or banners to a large variety is, to the best of my knowledge, a comparable cus-
of more substantial articles, such as a model ship, a tom practiced elsewhere: conjoint piercing, in

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COMPARATIVE STUDY OF BODY PIERCING 9

Figure 2.  Spirit medium pierced by long skewer, with a pair of small bicycles at its ends,
Phuket Jui Tui shrine street procession, 2004.

which two or more (male) mediums are pierced by the mediums of different deities, or between their
the same object. There are two basics variants: the respective pi liang, and demands very careful syn-
mediums are either interlaced by such objects as a chronization of the mediums’ progress by their
long skewer, a rope, or a chain, which are inserted assistants during the procession. Joint piercing adds
sequentially through their cheeks (Cohen, 2001, considerably to the festival’s distinctiveness and
frontispiece and Ill. 6.78), or pierced by the oppo- spectacularity. But it also poses a health threat, and
site ends of an object, such as a sign-board (Fig. 7), has therefore been officially banned in Phuket
or, in a unique instance, a motorcycle (Fig. 8). This some years ago; however, the ban has not fully
practice is obviously based on cooperation between stopped the practice.

Figure 3.  Spirit medium pierced by two swords and a big scissor, Puket, Kathu shrine
street procession, 2004.

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10 COHEN

The great diversity and ingenuousness of the


piercing objects considerably enhances the attrac-
tiveness of the festival. But the considerable free-
dom in the choice of piercing objects also offers an
opening for its commercial exploitation: some busi-
nesses might sponsor a medium in order to adver-
tise their products or services on the medium’s
piercing objects. The medium pierced by a huge
dish antenna of the “True Vision” company in
Krabi (Fig. 4), and the two conjointly pierced medi-
ums carrying the “Seacanoe” company’s sign-board
in Phuket (Fig. 7), instantiate such a contingency.

The Piercing Process


Many mediums, especially those merely insert-
ing some needles or short skewers into their faces,
tongues, or ears, do the piercing by themselves.
Longer skewers and more complex objects, how-
ever, demand some expert piercing competence. In
the big Phuket temples, there are some experienced
individuals who customarily pierce the mediums
and insert the various piercing objects into the per-
Figure 4.  Spirit medium pierced by a big dish antenna, Kra- forations. The piercing of male mediums takes
bi, Conjoint shrines street procession, 2009. place in the shrines’ yards in the early morning of

Figure 5.  Spirit medium piece by an electric fan, Krabi, Conjoint shrines street procession, 2009.

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COMPARATIVE STUDY OF BODY PIERCING 11

Figure 6.  Spirit medium pierced by a fanciful contraption, Phuket, Jui Tui shrine street procession,
2004.

Figure 7.  Two spirit mediums pierced by the signboard of a canoe excursion company, Phuket, Jui Tui
shrine street procession, 2008.

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12 COHEN

Figure 8.  Two mediums pierced by a motorcycle, Trang, Kiu Ong shrine street procession, 2009.

the day of their street processions. The process the piercing, a curious jostling for position occurs
attracts a large number of observers, including between the protecting mediums and the photo-
Western tourists, among them some heavily tat- graphing tourists. Despite the commotion around
tooed foreign piercers. them, however, the specialist piercers go about
The spirit mediums are supposed to be ritually their business casually, ostentatiously ignoring
pure, namely to have abstained from meat, sex, and the onlookers.
alcohol for some days before the festival period, or The entranced medium is seated on a chair. The
at least from the eve of its onset. Ritual impurity is piercer uses a “master skewer,” a long, chrome-
believed to manifest itself in excessive bleeding covered conic metal rod with a sharp point, to per-
during the piercing process (Cohen, 2001, p. 129), forate the medium’s cheek (Cohen, 2001, Ill. 6.22).
and to impair a medium’s ability to complete the Bleeding is rare, partly due to the physiological fact
course of the street procession. Preceding the pierc- that people in trance bleed less that fully awake
ing, a male medium pays obeisance to the images ones, but also because experienced piercers tear the
of the male deities at the shrine’s altars, and then flesh, rather than cut it. The piercer then extracts
enters into a self-induced trance, assisted by a the “master skewer” and inserts the piercing object
ceaseless, repetitive rhythmic drumming (Cohen, through the hole in the cheek; if the perforation is
2001, pp. 125–128). Fully entranced, he is led by not sufficiently big, the “master skewer” is used
his pi liang, who carry his carefully wrapped piec- again to enlarge it.
ing objects, to one of the specialist piercers. According to the master narrative, the entranced
Though it is a fairly standard, “technical” proce- medium, being an embodied deity, is not supposed
dure, the piercing is surrounded by elaborate prac- to feel any pain in the piercing process. In fact, his
tices of ritual purification. The medium is pierced self-mutilation is intended to scare away the evil
under the cover of predominantly black mediums’ forces, by demonstrating the deity’s power of
flags, which are intended to provide magic protec- endurance. My observations, however, indicate
tion from evil forces to the piercing site. As numer- that mediums often do suffer pain, particularly
ous prying tourists seek to observe and photograph when large or thorny piercing objects are inserted

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COMPARATIVE STUDY OF BODY PIERCING 13

into their cheeks. But the piercers go about their to the medium’s wounds. After blood and spittle is
business regardless of the possible suffering of wiped from his face, the medium is led to the
the medium. assembling area, where he waits for his turn to join
In some rare instances the pain suffered by the the procession.
medium might become so overwhelming, that he Female mediums enter trance and are pierced by
faints. I have in fact seen a medium fainting during female piercers within the shrines’ precincts, in
the process of insertion of six swords into his front of the altar of female divinities. Until recently
cheeks. However, once he came to, and had a brief only a few female mediums would be pierced, in
rest, he was submitted to the completion of the most cases with only a long needle through their
piercing process without further ado (Cohen, 2001, cheek or tongue. My recent observations of the
p. 129, and Ill. 6.23). conjoint street procession in Krabi town, however,
In contrast to the great care taken to assure ritual indicate that the number of female piercers grew
purity, the sanitary precautions during the piercing steadily and that they tend to put on increasingly
process are rather lax, despite the implicit risks of more complex piercing objects (Fig. 9), thereby
contagion. The piercers wear surgical gloves, but gradually erasing the difference in appearance
use the same “master skewer” repeatedly, cleaning between male and female mediums.
it between sessions with antiseptic fluid or just with
some coconut oil. No disinfecting ointment is
The Street Processions
applied to the piercing objects prior to insertion, or
The street processions are the high point of the
shrines’ festival activities in which the urn of the
Nine Emperor Gods, the images of the shrines’
principal deities, and the other deities’ mediums are
paraded through the town. The processions are not
just a pure performance, but possess a complex reli-
gious and magical significance. The public wor-
ships the entranced mediums as embodied deities,
asking for their blessings; many householders put
up altars in front of their houses, and repeatedly
invite passing mediums to bless them, their house-
holds, and their businesses. However, the distinc-
tion between the possessing deity and his human
medium is not strictly inculcated in the popular
mind; many people see the pierced mediums as
­sacrificing themselves to relieve the members of
the community of their sins as they pass through
town—an almost Christian interpretation of a
Chinese custom.
The thousands of devotees and observers lining
the streets provide an opportunity for the mediums
to display their piercing objects to a huge public.
Though entranced, the mediums are fairly aware of
their surroundings, and willingly stop to offer photo
opportunities to members of the public, taking on
the bodily postures of the possessing deities. It is
their great day. But the processions also impose a
great strain upon the pierced mediums. A proces-
Figure 9. Female spirit medium pierced by a needle, to
which a heavy metal object is attached, Krabi, Joint shrines sion often lasts for several hours, as it passes
street procession, 2009. through the town’s main street to a body of water

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14 COHEN

for a ritual, and then returns to the shrine, often Infections seem to be rare, but some mediums with
splitting into several sections, which weave their big cuttings are said to have them surreptitiously
way through side streets to bless peoples’ house stitched up in a hospital.
altars. In the intense heat of the monsoon season,
this is an exhausting trip for the mediums, espe-
The Public
cially those pierced by heavy or uncomfortable
objects. The trip demands considerable powers of It has been frequently claimed that the growth of
endurance, especially since the mediums’ entrance- the Vegetarian Festival and the increasing spectac-
ment, deep at the outset, starts to wear off after ularity of the mediums’ piercing objects had started
some time. The accompanying pi liang seek to as a response to the surge in Western tourism to
comfort the pierced mediums throughout the pro- Phuket island in the last decades of the 20th cen-
cession: they hold up their medium’s skewers, so tury. As Hamilton (2004) remarked: “Many com-
they would not tear the flesh around his wound, mentators . . . discount the contemporary Vegetarian
pour tea in his mouth, wipe off spittle and blood Festival in Phuket as ‘inauthentic’ created as a spec-
from his wounds, and spray water on his bare feet, tacle for the tourist trade” (p. 41), thus disregarding
to relieve the heat exuding from the hot tarmac. its historical roots in old Chinese practices.
Still, some mediums find it hard to endure the tor- The supposition that the growth and spectacular-
ment. To drop out, however, is an adverse option: it ization of the festival was provoked by tourism is
would not only cause the medium a considerable too simplistic, as Hamilton rightly observed. The
loss of face, but it would also be a highly inauspi- place of tourism in the festival’s dynamics needs
cious omen for the medium’s own fate. In fact, therefore to be carefully assessed within a broader
mediums rarely collapse or drop out from exhaus- social and religious context.
tion during the procession, but a few do. In Phuket The first point to note is that the popularity of the
town some years ago, a medium, pierced through Vegetarian Festival expanded throughout southern
his cheeks by two heavy metal rods, each probably Thailand, even to remote and marginal localities,
weighing close to 10 kilograms, was forced to drop which did not host tourists (Cohen, 2008). Second,
out a short way into the procession. In Krabi town like in the case of Thaipusam in Malaysia (DeBernardi,
in 2010, the organizers of the conjoint procession 2009, pp. 182–215), the great majority of visitors to
had the innovative idea of having it led by a banner, the major festival events are locals, domestic visi-
whose grips were stuck into the cheeks of two tors, and ethnic Chinese from Malaysia and
entranced mediums, a girl and a boy (the only case Singapore; many of these are devotees, or at least
of mixed conjoint piercing that I have ever believers in the power and efficacy of the Chinese
observed). As they waited for the procession to deities in bestowing blessings and good luck on
start, the girl fainted; the organizers quickly released them. The mediums display the power of the pos-
her, and unceremoniously substituted her with a sessing deities to this public, rather than just show
pierced male medium, extracting his piercing off to the foreign tourists. Third, though Phuket
object, and inserting the banner’s grip into the per- island and Krabi province are major vacationing
foration in his cheek. destinations for Western tourists, the number of
To reduce their suffering, many mediums are Westerners attending even the principal festival
relieved of their piercing object and exit trance events, including the street processions, is small in
after the ritual at the far end of the procession, and relation to both their numbers in the beach resorts
do not participate in the back trip to the shrine. and their size in the attending public. In Phuket,
Those who remain become increasingly agitated as Western tourists constitute only a small minority of
they approach their shrine, and rush to have their the audience of the major festival events, while
piercing objects extricated by their pi liang and exit their numbers in the conjoint temple procession in
from their trance on the shrine’s altar. As they are Krabi town, and in the festival processions in the
woken by the assistants, they casually put some touristically less prominent Trang province, are
ointment on their wounds; these normally heal miniscule. Finally, and central to the theme of this
quite soon, leaving marked scars in their faces. article, Western tourists are often not enthusiastic

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COMPARATIVE STUDY OF BODY PIERCING 15

about the piercings. Their attitude to the festival, so the display is double edged: on the one hand, it
and especially the pierced mediums in the street is oriented mainly to other members of the subcul-
processions, is highly ambivalent. ture, for their approval and appreciation; on the
On the one hand, the piercing became the iconic other hand, it is deployed as an act of defiance of
mark of the festival for Westerners. A mention of the mainstream society. That penetration of the
the festival usually elicits a reference by word or Other into the milieu of ordinary life is resented by
gesture to body piercing. But, while some West­ern­ the mainstream; as such, the Western piercing sub-
ers are eager to see it, others are disgusted by the culture is not in a position to become a topic of
sight of mutilated and disfigured human beings touristic interest.
(Cohen, 2001, p. 177). Most Westerners have Most piercers in the Vegetarian Festival are in a
enough after they had observed a street procession similar social predicament; but the festival consti-
for a brief time, and leave. The festival’s increased tutes a break in the flow of daily life, a temporarily
spectacularity thus had a counterproductive effect and spatially separate “province of meaning”; it
on foreign tourists: it might have helped at first to creates an opportunity for the youths to become
bolster the festival’s reputation among foreigners, spirit mediums and to display their piercing objects
but as it reached unforeseen extremes, it began to to a broad local and foreign public. In such circum-
repel the foreign tourists, even as the local authori- stances, they cease to be marginalized youths of
ties sought to reign in the “excesses” in the often questionable preoccupations, and, possessed
­mediums’ piercing objects (Cohen, 2001, p. 134; by Chinese divinities, are worshipped by the pub-
Kantavanich, 1999). Even if tourism did play a role lic. Rather than of aesthetic value, as in the West,
at an early stage in the festival’s spectacularization, the mediums’ piercing objects bear a religious or
the latter soon took on a dynamics of its own, unre- magical message regarding the power of the pos-
lated to whatever the opinions and attitudes of sessing deity, but are not intended to enhance the
Western tourists might be. At the present time, the medium’s appearance; in fact, the medium is
search for ever more shocking piercing objects is mostly disfigured by the inserted objects, rather
probably primarily motivated by the mediums’ than made aesthetically attractive. But the display
desire for distinction, rather than by any concern to of the deity’s prowess and endurance provides the
attract foreign tourism. pierced medium with a public occasion for the
expression of individual distinction. The very con-
Discussion and Conclusions centration of a great number of mediums displaying
their piercings to a huge public encourages compe-
Comparison
tition between mediums (and their respective pi
The most important finding of this comparative liang) and thereby fosters the contrivance of ever
study of two contemporary body piercing subcul- more outlandish piercing objects. The lively spec-
tures is that despite the vast differences between tacle becomes a tourist attraction, but preserves its
them in background, style, and presentation, they viability because it is not monopolized by tourism.
attract members of similarly situated social groups Western tourists remain a small minority of the
in their respective societies, motivated by a similar attending public.
late-modern quest for individual expression and The marginal and often criminal youths are thus
distinction, which they are unable to achieve by offered an opportunity to gain recognition by the
ordinary means in mainstream society. Both attract wider society, which escapes, and is in fact not
primarily youths of lower, marginalized social even aspired to, by the “new primitivists.” The cir-
classes, providing them with an opportunity for a cumstances of the display of the mediums’ piercing
conspicuous display of spectacular individual objects, however, put some important constraints
appearance, in quest of a personal distinction, upon their quest for individual distinction: not only
which they are otherwise unable to attain. But there do they have, in contrast to their Western counter-
is an important difference between the public to parts, annually only a single, relatively brief occa-
which their display is directed. The Western pierc- sion for that display, but strictly theologically, the
ing subculture is shunned by mainstream society, distinction accrues to them only by proxy, as

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16 COHEN

“horses” (ma song) of the possessing deities, who Body piercing of the spirit mediums, however, is
demonstrate their supremacy over the forces of evil in that respect exceptional. The perforation of the
by gruesomely mutilating “their” body, and not to medium’s cheeks and other body parts is incontest-
themselves as human beings; but the public does ably “real,” and its veracity hardly put into question
not always make the distinction, and appreciates by doubters. While some adventurous Western
their endurance and apparent self-sacrifice. What­ tourists tried to dispute the mediums’ extraordinary
ever admiration is shown by the attending devotees powers by imitating some of their feats, like climb-
to the pierced mediums is in principle not transfer- ing a bladed ladder, or walking on a nail bed, to the
able to the mediums’ everyday life. The standing of best of my knowledge, no foreigner has as yet tried
the possessing deity in the Chinese pantheon does body piercing at the festival.
not normally affect the medium’s social status: they The undeniably “reality” of piercing thus seems
are “gods for one day.” Only the older mediums— to offer a rare opportunity for an “authentic”
who are rarely pierced—in practice enjoy a mea- experience to foreign tourists. But many foreign-
sure of respect in daily life, owing to their ers manifest an ambiguous attitude to it: while
association with the high deities possessing them. fascinated, they are also repelled by the repeated
Unlike their Western counterparts, the mediums do sights of the disfigured and apparently suffering
not seek the pain experience—in fact, being in an pierced mediums.
entranced state, they are believed not to feel any Such reactions indicate that there is a limit of
pain, a belief that mitigates the severity of their bearability of otherwise authentic tourist experi-
supposed self-sacrifice. Finally, their quest is in ences. Some authentic sights or events might be so
one significant respect somewhat paradoxical: they overwhelming or shocking, that they repel, rather
allegedly do not remember their actions and experi- than attract even those tourists who are in quest of
ences under trance, and hence they cannot cherish authentic experiences; they become “unbearable.”
the experience of obeisance and appreciation It can be surmised that, paradoxically, many tour-
shown to them during the street procession. ists would find the sight of the pierced mediums
more bearable, if they believed that the piercing
was just a staged performance, in which nobody
Body Piercing and the Tourist Experience
gets “really” hurt.
The festival’s master narrative ascribes the The concept of “bearability” has implications
mediums’ ability to perform various amazing feats, ranging beyond the specific concerns of this arti-
such as running over burning coals, splashing their cle. It introduces an important qualification to the
body with hot oil, walking over a nail bed, or theoretical approach that foregrounds the quest
climbing a blade ladder without getting hurt, to the for authenticity as a leading motive for modern
extraordinary powers under possession. However, Western tourism: sights may be authentic, but not
Western tourists tend to be suspicious of that attractive, because they are beyond the limits of
explanation, and some doubt the veracity of these bearability of visitors. The concept may hence be
“amazing” feats and suspect that they are in some significant in the study of dark tourism and similar
way faked (Cohen, 2001, pp. 172–173). Elliott, in areas in which tourists are exposed to serious, prob-
an early study of spirit mediums’ feats in Singapore, lematic, and disturbing authentic situations.
claimed that, though the mediums require some
skill in their performance of various feats, “there is
Foreign Piercers
nothing which a competent stage magician or acro-
bat could not carry out as well, if not better” A potentially significant development is the
(Elliott, 1955, p. 159). In Thailand some years ago, growing number of foreign piercers who became in
an ex-professional spirit medium disputed the the course of the last decade attracted to the
mediums’ extraordinary powers, and debunked Vegetarian Festival. Since, as Turner has pointed
some tricks they are allegedly using in the perfor- out, their piercing objects are mostly borrowed
mance of “amazing” feats (Cohen, 2001, pp. from other cultures, these piercers seem to have pri-
169–170). marily a “professional” interest in the piercing,

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COMPARATIVE STUDY OF BODY PIERCING 17

rather than a touristic or even a New Age religious Collins, E. (1997). Pierced by Murugan’s Lance: Ritual,
one: to get acquainted with another piercing culture power and moral redemption among Malaysian Hindus.
DeKalb: Northern Illinois University Press.
and possibly appropriate some of its practices. Connell, J. (2006). Medical tourism: Sea, sun, sand and . . .
Hence, they are primarily found at the precincts of surgery. Tourism Management, 27, 1093–1100.
Chinese temples in the mornings preceding a pro- DeBernardi, J. (2009). Penang: Rites of belonging in a
cession, observing the piercing process. However, Malaysian Chinese community. Singapore: NUS Press.
as far as I know, none of them asked to be pierced DeMello, M. (2000). Bodies of inscription: A cultural his-
tory of the modern tattoo community. Durham NC: Duke
(a request that would anyway be rejected for lack of University Press.
ritual purity). Elliott, A. J. A. (1955). Chinese spirit medium cults in
Though small in numbers, the visits by Western Singapore. London: Athlone Press.
piercers are significant, in that they bring the two Favazza, A. (1998). The coming age of self-mutilation.
piercing subcultures into a first, tenuous mutual Journal of Nervous and Mental Disease, 186(5),
259–268.
contact. Whether and to what extent these pierc- Featherstone, M. (Ed.). (2009). Body modification. London:
ers will incorporate the piercing process and Sage.
objects of the Vegetarian Festival into their sub- Ferguson, H. (1999). Body piercing. British Medical
culture therefore seems to be a topic worthy of Journal, 319, 1627.
further investigation. Grosz, E. (1994). Volatile bodies: Toward a corporeal femi-
nism. Bloomington, IN: Indiana University Press.
Hamilton, A. (1999). Kwan Im, Nine Emperor Gods, and
Acknowledgment Chinese “spirit” in Southern Thailand. Paper presented
at 7th International Conference on Thai Studies,
Thanks are due to Kathleen Adams, Einat Amsterdam.
Bar-On Cohen, and Nir Avieli for their comments Hamilton, A. (2004). The moving zones of China: Flow of
on an earlier draft of this article. rite and power in Southeast Asia. In K. Iwabuchi, S.
Muecke, & M. Thomas (Eds.), Rogue flows: Trans-
Asian cultural traffic. Hong Kong: Hong Kong
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