OHERALDO

OPINION
www.oheraldo.in
O HERALD O
Vol No CX No: 290
Goa, Saturday 20 November, 2010
A timely warning
F or a state accustomed to being top-rated in most things,
it was a rude shock that the National Geographic
Society’s Centre for Sustainable Destinations named
Goa among the 10 worst beach destinations in the world
for 2010. This does not mean that Goa is unpopular, or that
Goans are not hospitable. The survey is an assessment of
authenticity and stewardship; of the qualities that make a
destination unique, and a measure of their ‘integrity’, says
National Geographic.
The Society polled a panel of 340 well-travelled experts
in a variety of fields, including historic preservation, sustainable
tourism, ecology, geography, site management, indigenous
cultures, archaeology, travel writing and photography. They
were asked to evaluate only those places with which they
were familiar, using six criteria – environmental and ecological
quality; social and cultural integrity; condition of historic
buildings and archaeological sites; aesthetic appeal; quality
of tourism management; and outlook for the future.
This means that in managing the environment and clean-
liness of its beaches, in preserving the traditional ethos of
its villages and towns, as well as its historic buildings, and
in creating a sustainable tourism infrastructure, Goa is among
the worst 10 of 99 beach destinations assessed worldwide.
Most ominous of all, it gives this state a thumbs-down in
terms of the outlook for its future.
Goa’s Tourism officials, including Tourism Minister Nilkanth
Halarnkar and Director of Tourism Swapnil Naik will no
doubt be dismayed by the verdict, but is it really surprising?
Our beaches and coastal villages have become garbage
dumps. No effort has been made to preserve traditional ar-
chitecture; the Calangute-Baga road is identical to any
crowded shopping street in Mumbai. Waste management, san-
itation and overall cleanliness have been going steeply downhill.
Panelists’ comments quoted on the National Geographic
website feature on the survey said of Goa: “The former Por-
tuguese colony has been overpowered by ‘uncontrolled
tourism development with no regard for the local culture or
environment. The hotels could be anywhere in the world,
and they cater to European charter tourism, focused on
cheap, all-inclusive resorts. Overcrowding, pollution, over-
building, and drug abuse have destroyed one of the world’s
finest stretches of beach. Unplanned development leaves
the area with severe problems, from lack of sanitation, pol-
lution of waterways, and erosion. This is regrettable because
the state of Goa features outstanding natural and cultural
heritage. Many of the historic structures are giving way to
faceless modern architecture. Outside of the main tourist
areas, the environment is still pristine but is being bought
up by developers intent on building unsustainable resorts.
There are many foreign-run businesses. There is little en-
couragement for locals to protect the environment and cul-
ture.” Need anyone say more?
Such assessments are taken extremely seriously, as the
pedigree of the rating agency – the National Geographic So-
ciety – is impeccable. It will be a setback for efforts to bring
in well-heeled, upmarket tourists. But there is no need to
Portuguese invention of Goa
Debate has evoked mixed responses, but reservation factor may weigh in, says tEotonio r de soUZa
M y previous OPinionatED column reflected
upon how new inventors follow the old
inventors across the history of Goa. This
opened a lively discussion about a recent book
published in Portugal and entitled “A Invenção de
Goa”. A poll is currently open on Goa-Research-
Net cyber-forum. It tends towards disapproval of
the use of the term ‘invention’, while there are a
few takers and a few others who are not averse
to accepting the idea with reservations.
The author of the book, Angela Barreto Xavier,
is aware of the debate and made a short debut
by proxy, but has so far shied away from direct
participation in the debate despite invitations to
do so. Intentionally or not, the discussion of the
“Portuguese invention of Goa” has been shifted
to places away from Goa. Conferences and round-
tables are organised in Paris, New York, and
Lisbon, where contrary native voices may not
easily interfere or disturb the superior under-
standing of a superior scholarship.
In Portugal itself, the commemoration of 500
years of Portuguese conquest of Goa has evoked
muted responses. There is an exhibition of select
bibliography on the Conquest of Goa by Afonso
de Albuquerque in the Universidade Nova de Lis-
boa, and the presentation at the Casa de Goa in
Lisbon, of a documentary entitled “The Other”,
produced by Francisco Veres Machado. Both these
events are scheduled for 25th of this month.
These are laudable initiatives, but a near anti-cli-
max to 500 years of the epic history of Estado da
Índia.
One historic reality that is discussed very little
is the collaboration or participation of many
actors of different nationalities in the so-called
“invention” of Goa attributed to the Portuguese.
Merchants, religious and adventurers from many
nationalities enabled the Portuguese to run the
show. From my own earlier research, it is clear
that without active collaboration of the Goan
Hindu businessmen, tax-collectors, and diplomatic
agents the Portuguese administration in Goa
would have been short-circuited very much earlier
than it did.
As an illustration, a little known Florentine,
John of Empoli, accompanied Afonso de Albu-
querque in his maiden voyage to India in 1503,
and later took part in the conquest of Goa and
Malacca. He left a first hand eyewitness account
of the conquest of Goa by Albuquerque. But he
also filed a complaint before King Manuel against
ill-treatment at the hands of Albuquerque. The
Medici Pope at that time, Leo X, backed his case
before the Portuguese crown for compensation.
John Empoli was duly compensated by being
tongue in cheek
Historical Explorations
appointed factor of the Indonesian island of Suma-
tra in 1515, where he suffered a series of natural
disasters which destroyed his factory and be-
longings. He died of an epidemic during a diplo-
matic mission to China a couple of years later.
He was only one of the many Italian traders and
merchants who contributed to the Portuguese
venture in the spice trade.
Incidentally, right from the 13th century, the
Genoese and Florentines contributed to the train-
ing of the Portuguese in ship-building, navigation
and cartography, helping the initial integration
of Portugal in the European market. The pay mas-
ter appointed by Afonso de Albuquerque after
the conquest of Goa was a Florentine, Francesco
Corvinelli. A later governor, Diogo Lopes de
Siqueira also chose another Florentine, Piero
Strozzi, as his factor for the Coromandel coast.
The Portuguese may have been spirited crusaders,
but were ill-equipped with skills for commercial
operations to rival the Italians.
John Empoli wrote a letter to his father in July
november rain
1514. In it he referred to Timoja as lord and gov-
ernor of Honavar, married to a daughter of the
ruler of Gersoppa, a vassal of Vijayanagar. It men-
tions the participation of Timoja in the conquest
of Goa with 60 fustas (pinaces) and 4000 warriors.
It also describes how on 25th November, the Por-
tuguese engaged nearly ten thousand Rumi de-
fendants of the castle of Goa before daybreak
along four fronts for the attack which lasted four
hours.
The vivid description of Empoli refers to blood
and corpses that showed up along the river banks
during the week following Goa’s capture. During
three and half months that followed, the Por-
tuguese dismantled the historic Muslim monu-
ments and mosques and built a new castle and
new walls with stones that were recovered and
brought more stones and wooden beams from
the suburbs of the city. Nearly 150 Portuguese
died of fatigue and malnutrition.
Afonso de Albuquerque was widely known for
his policy of mix-marriages as a colonial strategy.
Pg6
This strategy produced a social class that was
known in Goa as “descendentes”. Their genealogy
has been traced recently in three bulky volumes
authored by Jorge Forjaz and José Francisco de
Noronha and published by the Fundação Oriente.
We are told by a Portuguese historian, Luis Filipe
Thomaz that there were six thousand descen-
dentes in Portuguese India in the nineteenth cen-
tury, but that only two thousand remained on
the eve of the Indian takeover.
A detailed study of this class during the closing
decades of the Portuguese colonial history in
Goa is a desideratum, to permit us to understand
their political role in the wake of Goa’s freedom
struggle. We know from the existing studies that
their relations with the local elites were hostile,
marked by ethnic and colonial superiority and
by disregard for the native local culture. It would
be interesting to trace the linkages of the surviving
descendentes and some native collaborators in
the post-liberation political resistance organised
in Portugal. Could it be also linked to the neo-
orientalist scholarship that is showing up in recent
times?
It is but natural that while 500 years of Goa’s
conquest by the Portuguese, and 50 years of
Goa’s liberation from colonial rule are being com-
memorated, we take stock of the impact of colo-
nial rule and the benefits derived from the
post-colonial dispensation. The assessment is
bound to be coloured by varying viewpoints of
different interested social groups. However, while
the reality of globalisation gives many individuals
and social groups worldwide an opportunity to
express their feelings of support or frustration,
there is no doubt that the historic destiny of Goa
will always be decided by the Goans in Goa.
I chose to commemorate the two fold event
by providing an opportunity to the ethnic Por-
tuguese and Goans in Portugal to learn Konkani,
the soul of Goan culture. A short course of Konkani
language and Goan culture at the Universidade
Lusófona, in Lisbon, was meant to be only a com-
memorative and symbolic action to call attention
to the need to compensate for the 500 years of
the colonial past.
I believe that Lusofonia can win hearts and be-
come Lusofilia through a linguistic dialogue, by
learning each other’s language, not just by teach-
ing Portuguese language. There is a long way to
go in that direction! The Konkani course was suc-
cessfully realised and the participants were
awarded certificates on 16 October, at the Casa
de Goa in Lisbon. May Portuguese-Konkani dia-
logue grow and flourish during the coming 500
years.
By adelmo Fernandes

T
despair. What we do need to do is to take cognisance and
make the necessary course changes. As the survey report itself here was nothing much happening in Goa during the past song ‘November Rain’ sung by the band ‘Guns N Roses’. wedding reception which was held in an open-air hall during the
week besides the preparation for the International Film The year 2010 has been the second wettest year for Goa in the night. It so happened that it rained heavily during the afternoon.
says, “Each of the destinations rated has an opportunity to improve.”
Festival of India (IFFI) and the new Chairpersons of the civic past hundred years. One thing is for sure, if the rains continue the The only prayer on the lips of the bridal couple during the reception

Subsidised golf? bodies getting the feel of their seats of power. On the national
scene, there were of course more skeletons tumbling out from
way they have been going so far, this could well be the wettest
year Goa will experienced in the past century. Be that as it may,
could probably be “Lord please hold back the rains”.
Interestingly enough, God seems to have listened to their prayers

T
he Tourism Department will soon invite expressions
of interest (EoIs) to set up an international standard
golf course in Goa, under public private partnership
(PPP). Whether we need a golf course or not is a matter of
debate. But even assuming that we do, why should it qualify
for a subsidy of up to Rs50 crore? Should the Indian ‘aam
admi’ taxpayer have to pay so that wealthy Japanese tourists
can play golf cheaply in India? This is robbing the poor to
subsidise the idle-rich; it cannot be tolerated!
the cupboards of politicians like A Raja, former Maharashtra Chief
Minister Ashok Chavan and of course, Suresh Kalmadi of CWG
fame.
I was at my wits end as to what topic to dwell upon. As I was
sitting by my PC with a blank look, there was a deafening sound
of thunder. In no time, the sun had disappeared and it had become
dark all around. And before I could go to my window to investigate
the reason for the sudden change in the intensity of day light, it
began to pour cats and dogs. That is what made me write on the
November rains in Goa. I was immediately reminded of the hit
call it the unseasonal rains or an extended south west monsoon
or north eastern monsoon or wet weather caused by the cyclone
‘Jal’, the rains have succeeded in making our lives less pleasant.
In my lifetime, I have never heard of people going out with an
umbrella or rain wear in the month of November. The pot holes
on the roads are only getting deeper and wider. The worst part is
that we are not in a position to blame the authorities. They are
quick to blame the weather for their inability to repair the roads.
The frequently changing weather pattern could give sleepless
nights for the weather-man. The other day I happened to be at a
as it did not rain during the time the reception was in progress.
An hour later, the heavens opened. Well, the newly married couple
now considered the rains as a shower of blessing. I was reminded
by my better half that it did rain on our wedding day twenty-three
years ago. I reminded her that we got married in the month of
September and not November. Now the big question on everybody’s
mind is whether it will rain during the International Film Festival
of India, and during the Old Goa feast, or whether it will rain on
Christmas day and even on New Year day. Well, with the rains
being as unpredictable as they are this year, you will never know.

Letters to the Editor

Security bogey
Peter Fernandes, Curca
Was the Indian Navy sleeping when terror-
ists attacked Mumbai using the sea route?
Then, why does the Navy want to take over
Goan islands for security reasons? Isn’t it
their job to go several miles deep into the
ocean and keep coastal areas secure? That’s
what the Coast Guard is all about.
The Navy seems to be following the pol-
icy of locking the cabinet and leaving the
doors of the house open to intruders. The
defence forces are in the habit of acquiring
prime areas to set up establishments. They
get everything from A-Z in their canteens.
They are also found in the midst of dense
civilian population. It will come as no sur-
prise if, in future, residential quarters are
built for Navy personnel, ostensibly for
100 Years Ago
PRIMEIRO DIARIO NAS COLONIAS PORTUGEZAS
20 November 1910
Colonial views on India
The Colonial writes saying that India is
one peaceful region and the most orderly
although it spends about 400 Contos
out of its budgeted 974 Contos on Mil-
itary expenditure.
Wedding at Bombay cathedral
Took place at the Cathedral of Bombay
the wedding of the Governor of that
Presidency Sir George Clarke with Lady
Reynolds.
Portugal, the new republic
Brazil and Switzerland officially recog-
nized the implementation of Portugal
as the new Republic.
Republican denotation
The Republican Government denoted
to the Capitulary Vicar that it was not
against any professed religion.
‘convenience sake’. Goa government should
not fall prey to this security bogey.
Two month away rule
J F Jackson, Calangute
I congratulate Svatantra Sarjano for his ex-
cellent article ‘Why this Visa problem?’
(Herald, 18 Nov).
I retired to Goa 10 years ago and spend
an average of Rs 3,50,000 each year, with
the local population. The expats, over the
years, have grown to accept bi annual trips
out of the country, amidst the total lack of
infrastructure, migrants and the appalling
stench of rotting garbage.
But to most, the 60 day rule was the
final straw, they have left forever taking
with them poor opinions of Goa.
I travel a lot to south east Asia where
expats from many countries have retired.
These are made welcome and are encour-
aged to form associations which regularly
meet with local officials and the police to
discuss items of mutual benefit. Is there
any chance of this happening in Goa? None!
Biblical misinterpretation
Paul Rodricks, Caranzalem
Some Catholic or Christian letter writers
randomly quote scriptures or comment on
Biblical matters and personages. This re-
flects their superficial understanding from
the perspective of personal faith. Historians
and theologians supported by archaeolog-
ical findings have evidently proved that the
Jewish and Christian Bible is not exclusive.
All the teachings, sayings, laws, rites and
rituals are steeped in ancient literature, in-
cluding Hinduism.
We, Christians, ought to appreciate hu-
manity’s common religious heritage. Real-
isation that the Bible is an updated
compendium of literature long predates
the Bible itself. These writings need defence
rather than misinterpretations attached to
Biblical literalism.
Konkani survived
Nelson Lopes, Chinchinim
Labelled as the lingua franca of Goan cooks
and butlers, Konkani survived all odds, dis-
crimination and due recognition by colonial
by Indian government.
Letter of the Day Fighting for freedom is voluntary and
Paths of Wisdom
none was forced into it with an offer for The Final Judgement
Absurd comments
pension. Pension can be paid only to those
who may have lost their source of income When the Son of Man comes as King and
or are rendered incapable to work. It looks all the angels with him, he will sit on his
Martin Beney, by email royal throne, and the people of all the
like these FFs had participated in the free-
I am appalled by the level of comments made by Goa’s Tourism Director in response dom struggle for getting pension and other nations will be gathered before him.
Then, he will divide them into two
to the National Geographic placing Goa in the 10 worst tourist destinations (Herald, benefits at the cost of the taxpayer. We
19 Nov). may have got freedom from foreign rule groups, just as a shepherd separates the
sheep from the goats. He will put the
Firstly, with regard to the comment “On the social and cultural front, Goans are but are yet to get freedom from corruption,
said to be friendly and hospitable people.” Has your Tourism Director had no education crimes, mismanagement and favouritism. righteous people on his right and the
others on his left. Then, the King will
at all? Social in the sense used has nothing to do with “being sociable”! It instead Freedom fighters would be well advised to
refers to the impact of tourism on the social and cultural values of Goan society. free Goa from the above ailments. say to the people on his right, “Come,
you that are blessed by my Father! Come
Secondly, I cannot conceive how your Tourism Director can possibly consider that
“historic buildings and archaeological sites are much better than the ones abroad”, and possess the Kingdom which has been
Gas pipeline prepared for you ever since the creation
let alone in London. Perhaps, he could use the internet himself to view some of these Dr Carmo Costa-Viegas , Assolna
sites in London and other places. I suspect he will be in for a rude shock. Of course, of the world. I was hungry and you fed
The proposed gas pipeline through Goa me, thirsty and you gave me a drink; I
the National Geographic survey is not referring to “being better” but, instead, to the
state to which these sites are maintained and preserved for future generations. should be properly studied. The farmers was a stranger and you received me in your
of Ponda, Bicholim, etc are wise to object homes, naked and you clothed me; I was sick
Perhaps, the decline in tourism over the last few years can be explained by having
a director who plainly has very little knowledge of the world outside Goa. to this project. The recent blasts at San and you took care of me, in prison and you
Bruno, should be an eye opener for us. The visited me.”
number of deaths recorded in the last five The righteous will then answer him,
powers. It is the Goan identity which we der. This is a gimmick by anti Goans who
months is shocking. We have carelessly “When Lord, did we ever see you hungry
are proud of. State reorganisation in India are out to gain political mileage.
allowed a nuclear plant to come up right and feed you, or thirsty and gave you a
has been on linguistic considerations which
on our border, with absolutely no improve- drink? When did we ever see you a
propelled us into statehood. Determined Unnecessary hue and cry ment in our power scenario. We conve-
efforts by the tiatrist have kept Konkani Cruz Barneto, Maina niently push for highways into fertile fields
stranger and welcome you in our homes,
or naked and clothe you? When did we
language’s head up in the face of persecu-
A big hue and cry is being made by the and destroy our food resources and ever see you sick or in prison, and visit
tion. Unfortunately, they were not included
in the band of freedom fighters. How many Chief Minister regarding the bus stops wildlife. you?” The King will reply, “I tell you,
freedom fighters can claim any share in the erected by some corporates. At least the whenever you did this for one of the
protection and promotion of Konkani to aam aadmi gets shade and protection from Heaping humiliation least important of these brothers of mine,
date? Is the organisation bereft of worthy the sun and rain. The CM is obviously better Marcos Alemao, by email you did it for me!” Then, he will say to
successors? Actions speak louder than off as he is travelling in an AC car provided those on his left, “Away from me, you
Today’s OPinionatED ‘What’s in a name?’ that are under God’s curse! Away to the
words. to him at the cost of our taxes.
by Joaquim Correia Afonso (Herald, 19 Nov) eternal fire which has been prepared for
For a man who cannot get the garbage has put pseudo freedom fighters and many
problem in Margao solved for years on end, the Devil and his Angels! I was hungry,
Goan decimation his determination and zeal to remove bus
of their ilk into a tight corner when they but you would not feed me, thirsty, but
had demanded that the Chief Minister of
James Moraes, Cuncolim shelters is ridiculous. you would not give me a drink; I was a
Goa remove Portuguese names from roads stranger, but you would not welcome
Said to be a victory for BJP, freedom fighters, The government would do well to build
and public places by 19 December 2010. me in your homes, naked but you would
and like minded organisations decision to bus bays and shift the bus shelters behind
We Goans also demand that government not clothe me; I was sick and in prison
stop the Governors visit to NRP Sagres a so that the traffic flow does not stop. Such erases names of bogus freedom fighters but you would not take care of me.” Then
Portuguese navy ship, was a senseless thing a decision puts the general public like us
to do. The so called freedom fighters, some into great inconvenience. Hope better sense
from the list by 18 December 2010. We they will answer him, “When Lord, did
will not participate in the celebration of we ever see you hungry or thirsty or a
of whom were cheats and had been con- prevails which is usually not the case in
the golden jubilee of Goa’s liberation. stranger or a naked or sick or in prison,
victed for robberies were imprisoned which Goa.
led them to their present status. As a result, If the Chief Minister does this, the ex- and would not help you?” The King will
they obtained all facilities. The real freedom chequer will not be drained of lakhs of ru- reply, “I tell you, whenever you refused
Stop the pension pees withdrawn towards their pension to help one of these least important ones,
fighters are the ones who saved Goa by
the opinion poll. Today, because Portuguese Carlos Fernandes, by email every month. Goa was not liberated but you refused to help me.” These, then, will
ruled Goa, these freedom fighters enjoy The pension paid to the freedom fighters taken over by force. The so called freedom be sent off to eternal punishment, but the
benefits like pension, reservations etc. Such should be abolished just the way privy fighters then took credit and now enjoy righteous will go to eternal life.”
anti Goans will sell Goa to the highest bid- purses paid to the Maharajas was abolished all the facilities. (Matthew 25;31-46)

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