Essential oils

properties
● essential oils are the aromatic volatile components of aromatic plants. In
nature, they serve as a defense against pests, a means for communication
between plants, and a tool to attract pollinators.
● Not all eo are good for us they can be irritants, or even carcinogenic .
● molecule 1,8-cineole can be found in essential oils from rosemary, tea tree,
eucalyptus, spike lavender is good for adults but not for babies.
● true essential oil, it must be isolated by physical means only i.e distillation (steam,
steam/water and water) or expression (also known as cold pressing, a unique
feature for citrus peel oils). This is a maceration/distillation. In the process, the
plant material is macerated in warm water to release the enzyme-bound essential
oil. Examples of oils produced by maceration are onion, garlic and bitter almond.
Fragrance based classification of essential oils
Top notes-normally evaporate very fast and normally also have anti-viral
properties.They tend to be light, fresh and uplifting in nature and are generally not
very expensive,Basil (To Middle),Bergamot,Coriander, Eucalyptus, cinnamon,lemon, lemon grass,
orange, peppermint, sage, spearmint, tea tree thyme, tangerine etc

Middle notes- The bulk of essential oils are considered middle notes and normally
give body to the blend and have a balancing effect.The smells of middle notes are
not always immediately evident . Eg: bay, black pepper, fennel chamomile, cardamom,
geranium, lavender, pine,

Base Notes - "heavy" oils with intense and evident fragrance evident, but will also
slowly evolve present for a long time and slows down the evaporation of the other
oils. Eg Frankincense, Rose, ginger, clove, jasmine, patchouli, vanilla, ylang ylang
Blending of essential oils

● Thumb rule:Top notes 15 - 25% of the blend. Middle notes 30 - 40% of the
blend. Base notes 45 - 55% of the blend.
● Therapeutic Blends- eg mentha with ginger good for soaks and congestion
Chemicals in essential oils
Terpenoid molecules: most essential oils
consist of these molecules. insoluble/ partially
soluble in water- main constituent of top
notes. Small molecules so highly volatile eg
lemonene (proposed allergen in EU)

Phenolic molecules: There are only a few

phenolic compounds found in essential
oils,potent antioxidants, potential to be very
therapeutic, but also potentially harsher on
your skin. Eg vanillin.
Non-Terpenoid aliphatic molecules-
linear carbon chain ,citrus oils them

Heterocyclic molecules- these contain

atoms (oxygen, nitrogen etc) other than
carbon in a closed ring, soluble in water,
so get lost in steam distillation, eg jasmine
( this is also a prposed allergen in in EU)
The Difference Between Natural and Synthetic Fragrances

Synthetic fragrances are created in a laboratory, and two-third of the most popular

fragrances made today that are used in perfumes and other scented products.

full synthetics- which are composed almost entirely from petroleum by-products;

semi-synthetics/natural fragrances -that have been modified by artificial means

natural isolates- which are aromas which fall somewhere in between natural and

synthetic because they are developed by isolating one scent from a more complex

aroma base such as that of a red rose.

FLAVOURING AGENTS
● Chemicals or combination of materials used to impart taste to product,
generally used in cosmetics that are subject to ingestion. Europe termed as
aroma.
● Traditionally used chemicals phthalates- DBP, DMP, DEP
● Natural flavouring substances- The essential oil, oleoresin, essence, or extractive, protein
hydrolysate, distillate, or any product of roasting, heating, or enzymolysis, which contains the
flavoring constituents derived from a spice, fruit, or fruit juice, vegetable or vegetable juice, edible
yeast, herb, bark, bud, root, leaf, or any other edible portions of a plant, animals
● Artificial or derived flavors- mostly petroleum derivatives and combination of chemicals,
rarely a single compound eg; ethyl vanillin , for vanilla , ethyl methylphenylglycidate for strawberry

Animal derived flavours- Beavers CASTOREUM a gland can be used to get natural vanilla rasberry
flavour.