SH RI M P R ECI P ES FOR FAL

FA L L • OYST
OYSTER
ER ST
STEW
EW • N E
EWW WAYS W
WITH
I TH SATS
SATSUM
UMAS
AS

Louisiana
Authentic Cajun & Creole Cuisine

ANNUAL

to

I S S U E

Sept/Oct 2019 vol 22, issue 5

$5.99US $6.99CAN
10 PAGE 59

THE SHRIMP & SAUSAGE

0 74808 01055 4
DISPLAY UNTIL OCTOBER 15, 2019 jambalaya
 contents
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2019 | VOLUME 22, ISSUE 5

51 first, you make a

roux.
Spillin’ the Beans 23 In Season 29 Foodways
Gems of the Sea Côte des Allemands
2 Light & Fresh
Sweet Crop 27 Afield & Afloat 3 Chef’s Table
Rib-Eye in the Sky Stories of the Gulf
by Chef John D. Folse by Caitlin Watzke

3 louisianacookin.com
377 Chefs to Watch 2019
entrées
the main course 23
Six chefs who are changing the way we eat,
one dish at a time
by Samantha Moats

5 New Ways with Satsumas

Sweet and savory recipes to make the most
of satsuma season

59 Pure Louisiana Comfort

A mouthwatering menu featuring our new
favorite jambalaya

677 Dining to the Nines

Our picks for the best fine dining spots
across the Bayou State

lagniappe
77 a little something extra

757 Sweets
Gooey Goodness

77 Quick & Easy

Winning Bites

79 Local Pantry
Grape Vines and Good Times
by Samantha Moats

85 7By the Book

The Little Local New Orleans Cookbook

877 Cooking with Chefs to Watch

Pierogi Tradition
by Caitlin Watzke

937 Swizzle Stick

Family Tree
by Crystal Pavlas

95 Index & Resources

977 Lagniappe

5 louisianacookin.com
 September/October 2019 Volume 22, Issue 5

EDITORIAL
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Daniel Schumacher

Caitlin Watzke
MANAGING EDITOR GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR
ASSISTANT EDITOR Samantha Moats Deanna Rippy Gardner
RECIPE EDITOR Fran Jensen ART DIRECTOR Nancy Heard
SENIOR COPY EDITOR Rhonda Lee Lother
COPY EDITOR Meg Lundberg ST YLISTS
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Caroline Blum, Courtni Bodiford,
John D. Folse, Crystal Pavlas Sidney Bragiel, Lucy Finney, Mary Beth Jones,
Beth K. Seeley, Melissa Smith
CREATIVE DIRECTOR/PHOTOGRAPHY
Mac Jamieson TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Irene Yeh
SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER ASSISTANT TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Melissa Gray
John O’Hagan FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Laura Crandall, Kathleen Kanen,
Jim Bathie, William Dickey, Nicole Du Bois, Tricia Manzanero, Vanessa Rocchio,
Elizabeth Stringer
Stephanie Welbourne Steele
ASSISTANT FOOD ST YLIST/RECIPE DEVELOPER
Anita Simpson Spain
SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST
Delisa McDaniel
CHEFS TO WATCH ADVISORY BOARD
DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Clark Densmore
Kristen Essig, Holly Goetting, Jeffrey Hansell,
Colt Patin, Nathan Richard
FOUNDERS Romney K. and Charley Richard

D I G I TA L M E D I A A D M I N I S T R AT I V E
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 E D I TO R’S
LETTER

ONE OF THE INTERESTING THINGS to me about Louisiana

cooking is that while it’s firmly rooted in the home and in family
traditions, there are countless chefs around the state who execute
incredible renditions of important Cajun and Creole dishes each night.
From white tablecloth establishments in New Orleans to hometown
haunts in the far reaches (not to mention the gas station cracklin’s to be
had in between), I don’t think there’s ever been such a good time to eat in
the Bayou State.
Each year, we select a handful of up-and-coming chefs who respect
local traditions while fearlessly forging ahead by introducing their
personal twists and tweaks to the classics. I am as impressed by this year’s
class of Chefs to Watch (starting on page 37) as I’ve ever been, and I’m
thrilled we get to honor them with the Chefs to Watch Awards Dinner
at Galatoire’s on Monday, August 19. For a selection of recipes from this
year’s Chefs to Watch, please be sure to visit louisianacookin.com.
Late summer and early autumn in Louisiana are two of my favorite
times for cooking. From sweet Gulf shrimp to the last of the Creole
tomatoes, the state’s best flavors are ripe for the picking. I plan on making
the Shrimp and Andouille Jambalaya (page 66) as often as I can and look
forward to buying bags upon bags of satsumas. I’ll likely peel and eat
most of them but will certainly be preparing a few of the recipes from our
satsuma feature starting on page 51.
I hope you enjoy this crop of outstanding recipes for years to come.

ON THE COVER
Shrimp and Andouille Jambalaya
(recipe on page 66)
photography by stephanie welbourne steele
styling by sidney bragiel
recipe development by kathleen kanen
food styling by vanessa rocchio
FOLLOW US ON
VISIT US AT LOUISIANACOOKIN.COM.
IN CELEBRATION OF
CHEF LEAH CHASE
There are few people in New Orleans’ history who
have influenced the culinary and cultural fabric
as much as Chef Leah Chase of Dooky Chase’s
Restaurant, who passed away earlier this year.
From her role in helping desegregate Crescent City
restaurants to the countless chefs whom she mentored, we are
grateful for all she did to feed our stomachs and our souls. Her legacy will
continue through the Edgar “Dooky” Jr. & Leah Chase Family Foundation.
For more information on the foundation, visit dookychasefoundation.org.

9 louisianacookin.com
 SPILLIN’
T H E B E AN S PRESENTED BY CAMELLIA BRAND

NEW & IRRESISTIBLE

MID TAP BATON ROUGE
The Red Stick has its first entirely self-
serve craft wine, beer, and nitro coffee
bar called MID Tap. Guests who are
21 and older are given an electronic
wristband that allows them to use
electronically controlled taps. But
MID Tap offers more than libations.
The menu includes elevated bar bites
like boudin gyoza, a variety of sliders
and wings, and deconstructed s’mores.
midtapbr.com

COSTERA NEW ORLEANS

Local produce and Gulf seafood take center stage at Costera, a coastal
Spanish restaurant and bar by restaurateur Reno De Ranieri and co-owner
Chef Brian Burns. The Uptown restaurant opened in February as an
instant favorite. Its communal dining atmosphere is casual and inviting—
perfect for an evening on the town with friends and family, sharing dishes
like Seafood Paella or Crispy Skinned Pompano. costerarestaurant.com

THALIA NEW ORLEANS

The latest restaurant concept from co-chefs
Kristen Essig and Michael Stoltzfus is a 37-seat
neighborhood haunt in the Lower Garden
District on the corner of Constance and Thalia
Streets, the restaurant’s namesake. The little
sister of Kristen and Michael’s Coquette, Thalia
offers innovative takes on familiar snacks, salads,
and pastas as well as themed daily dinners like
Tuesday Schnitzel Night. thalianola.com

11 louisianacookin.com
JUICY TIDBITS
Red Stick Spice Company,
Baton Rouge
Throughout the summer, Red Stick
Spice Company took a cooking class
hiatus while their kitchen underwent
an expansion. Classes are expected to
pick up again in October with a few
new courses, including Halloween-
themed Platters and Boards and
a special Farm, Food & Cooking
LOWDER BAKING COMPANY
Tour with owner and chef Anne
SHREVEPORT
Milneck as well as Lili Courtney.
In case you missed it: Lowder
redstickspice.com
King Cakes is officially Lowder
Levee Baking Co., New Orleans Baking Company. After several
Earlier this summer 2018 Chef to successful years slinging king
Watch Christina Balzebre opened cakes for Shreveport, Preston and
her brick-and-mortar Levee Baking Sarah Lowder opened their own
Co. on Magazine Street to much storefront in the city’s happening
fanfare. Longtime fans of Levee South Highland neighborhood.
praise Christina and her team’s focus The Lowders will continue turning
on high-quality, local, and seasonal out their beloved king cakes
ingredients to prepare delectable
during Carnival season, but now
handmade pastries and breads.
they offer a variety of breads, pastries, and cookies throughout the year.
leveebakingco.com
lowderbakingcompany.com
Cultured Guru, Baton Rouge
Baton Rouge’s own fermentation
company is releasing its latest ADVERTISING
seasonal product, Bonfire Kraut, later
this fall. This special limited-edition
kraut’s name is inspired by the smoky
flavor resulting from a unique blend
of cabbage, smoked onions, and
Cajun spices. It’s also a nod to co-
owner Kaitlynn Fenley’s home in St.
James Parish, otherwise known as
the “Bonfire Capital of the World.”
THE
cultured.guru SCOOP
Bellegarde Bakery, New Orleans
from Camellia Brand
This New Orleans bakery opened COOKING DOESN’T HAVE TO HEAT UP YOUR KITCHEN.
its new retail space this summer, Don’t let the heat keep you from getting in the kitchen and cooking your
offering freshly baked bread and family’s favorite meals. Stay cool by relying on the kind of appliances that
stone-milled grains. Bellegarde keep all their heat contained inside: slow cookers, Instant Pots, pressure
will also host baking classes at this cookers, or any kind of electric multicookers.
location. bellegardebakery.com
For delicious slow cooker and Instant Pot recipes, visit camelliabrand.com.

13 louisianacookin.com
PRODUCT PICK
GUMBO LIFE: TALES FROM THE
ROUX BAYOU BY KEN WELLS
As summer fades into fall, relax
and cozy up to a good book like
Ken Wells’ Gumbo Life: Tales from
the Roux Bayou (W. W. Norton &
Company, 2019). As any Louisianan
knows, gumbo is as much an
experience as it is a representation of
our culture. Ken explores the roots,
diversity, spread, and evolution of
one of the most famous and hotly
contested dishes in the world.

BUMSTEERS BATON ROUGE

With Chef Phil Beard at the helm, Bumsteers showcases specialty burgers,
sandwiches, tacos, fries, and salads in Baton Rouge’s Perkins Road
overpass neighborhood. A wide variety of wines, beers, and craft cocktails
makes it perfect for a fun-filled night out. This family-friendly restaurant
also features a rooftop dining space and bar with pool tables, foosball, and
fun games for kids. bumsteersbr.com

CLARET WINE AND COCKTAIL BAR

NEW ORLEANS
Claret Wine and Cocktail Bar recently joined
the list of places to seek refreshing libations in
New Orleans’ Lower Garden District. Claret
shares this new space on Magazine Street
with neighbors such as KREWE eyewear
headquarters and Satsuma Cafe. Claret
features an exciting selection of wines, local
and regional beers, and a variety of colorful
cocktails. Pair any beverage of choice with
charcuterie and cheese or some of Claret’s
signature small plates and enjoy this new
Crescent City hideaway. claretnola.com

15 louisianacookin.com
 CHEF CHAT
Downtown New Orleans got its first wine pub last fall
when Copper Vine opened in the building that was
once home to Maylie’s, a restaurant that opened in 1876.
Set in a beautifully designed space that includes Maylie’s
original bar, Copper Vine is known for its extensive
selection of wines on tap and equally tempting food
menu. We recently caught up with Executive Chef Mike
Brewer to talk about what’s new at Copper Vine.
Copper Vine is celebrating one year in September.
How have things changed over the last year?
We have extended our dining areas. We’ve grown the
courtyard to be a place where folks want to come and sit
and hang out, and we added a retractable roof to make
it more inviting in the heat. And we’ve touched up the
menu, putting some things on that we think the fans are
going to enjoy.
Can you tell us about some of those new things?
We have a dinner series called Between the Vines, and
we’re taking three items from those dinners and putting
them into a three-course chef ’s tasting on our menu. It
gives the kitchen a chance to spread its wings, but it also
gives our guests a way to taste some of the foods from
the wine pairings.
How did you design the menu with wine in mind?
Well, in a previous life, I used to be the sommelier
17 louisianacookin.com
at Commander’s Palace, so I know a little bit about
putting food and wine together. One of the keys to it
was to make sure our menu was approachable with
wine pairings. And we wanted to be somewhere folks
could come in every night of the week and experience
something different. One night you could come in and
get the short rib with a big cabernet, and another night
you could get the pork belly with a pinot noir. It makes
it versatile and fun for people.
Copper Vine has a pretty happening happy hour.
Tell us about that.
We offer our tap wines and house wines by the bottle
at half price. And we have our snacks menu, with
everything from marinated olives to flatbreads to our
house-smoked salmon. We do fill up quite a bit. It runs
from 3:30 to 5:30, and at about 5 on a Friday afternoon,
you’re going to be hard-pressed to find room in the
courtyard.
 UPCOMING EVENTS
LOUISIANA SUGAR CANE FESTIVAL
SEPTEMBER 25–29, NEW IBERIA
There are 24 sugar-producing parishes in the Bayou State, and each year,
those parishes are celebrated at the Louisiana Sugar Cane Festival in New
Iberia. This four-day festival is packed with fun for the whole family. It
RED RIVER REVEL ARTS
FESTIVAL SEPTEMBER 28–
OCTOBER 6, SHREVEPORT
This year, Shreveport
commemorates its 44th annual
Red River Revel Arts Festival, a
nine-day festival with a mission to
provide arts education to children.
Throughout the festival, more
than 100 visual artists display their
work in a variety of mediums, in
addition to dozens of musicians
and performers. Additionally,
crave-worthy festival food such as
Natchitoches meat pies, chicken
and waffles, and jambalaya
are available all week long.
redriverrevel.com
19 louisianacookin.com
begins on Wednesday,
September 25, with
carnival rides and shows.
The following three
days are full of parades,
cooking contests, food
vendors and sugary
treats, games, live music
performances, and more.
hisugar.org
ANDOUILLE FESTIVAL
OCTOBER 18–20, LAPLACE
Across the Bayou State, we refer
to LaPlace as the “Andouille
Capital of the World.” The city
has fully embraced this moniker
and celebrates it annually with the
Andouille Festival. Enjoy andouille
prepared in an assortment of
ways, sing and dance along to
live music performances, and
visit with makers touting locally
produced goods, crafts, and
art—all in celebration of the
town’s most beloved commodity.

andouillefestival.com
CALENDAR
SEPTEMBER
20–21 Natchitoches Meat Pie
Festival; Natchitoches
meatpiefestival.com
20–22 Fried Chicken Festival
New Orleans friedchickenfestival.com
20–22 St. Theresa Bon Ton Festival
Sulphur visitlakecharles.org
20–22 St. Tammany Crab Festival
Slidell sttammanycrabfestival.com
27–28 Bogalusa Blues & Heritage
Festival; Bogalusa
bogalusablues.com
27–29 Gretna Heritage Festival
Gretna gretnafest.com
27–29 Ascension Hot Air Balloon
Festival; Gonzales facebook.com/
ascensionhotairballoonfestival
27–29 C.O.Y.C. Hurricane Festival
Cut Off lacajunbayou.com
OCTOBER
4–5 Funktoberfest; Alexandria
funktoberfestcenla.com
4–6 Tremé Fall Fest; New Orleans
faubourgtreme.wixsite.com/tremefest
5 Beignet Fest; New Orleans
beignetfest.com
10–13 Festivals Acadiens et Créoles
Lafayette festivalsacadiens.com
11–13 Bridge City Gumbo Festival
Bridge City
bridgecitygumbofestival.org
11–13 Louisiana Gumbo Festival
Chackbay lagumbofest.com
17–20 International Rice Festival
Crowley ricefestival.com
26 Pepper Festival; St. Martinville
facebook.com/StMartinvilleKiwanisClub
31–Nov. 3 La Fête des Bayous
St. Amant geauxlafete.com
L I G H T & F R ES H

SWEET CROP
recipe development by melissa gray | food styling by vanessa rocchio

SWEET POTATOES HAVE BEEN GROWN in Louisiana for hundreds of years, and
today, the state remains one of the country’s largest producers of sweet potatoes. Their
sweet flavor makes them one of our favorite fall ingredients, but their numerous health
benefits make eating the starchy roots even sweeter. With high levels of beta-carotene,
vitamin A, vitamin C, and dietary fiber, sweet potatoes are a nutritional powerhouse. This
fall, try something new with Louisiana sweet potatoes, like this silky soup with warming
curry paste and plump shrimp.

CURRIED SWEET POTATO AND 1. In a medium Dutch oven, heat 1 tablespoon

SHRIMP SOUP oil over medium-high heat. Add onion; cook,
MAKES 4 SERVINGS stirring occasionally, until tender, about
5 minutes. Add garlic and ginger; cook until
Thai red curry paste and fresh ginger accent the fragrant, about 1 minute. Add sweet potatoes,
flavor of sweet potatoes in this luxurious soup broth, 3 teaspoons Cajun seasoning, and curry
spiced with Cajun seasoning. paste; bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to
medium; cook until potatoes are tender, about
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided 20 minutes.
1 cup chopped red onion 2. Working in batches, transfer soup and lime
4 cloves garlic, minced juice to the container of a blender; blend until
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger creamy. Keep warm.
2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed 3. Wipe pot clean. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon
4 cups vegetable broth oil over medium-high heat. Add shrimp and
3½ teaspoons Cajun seasoning, divided remaining ½ teaspoon Cajun seasoning; cook
1½ to 3 teaspoons Thai red curry paste until pink and firm, 3 to 5 minutes.
1 lime, juiced 4. In a small bowl, whisk together sour cream
½ pound peeled and deveined large fresh and milk until smooth. Divide soup into serving
shrimp (tails left on) bowls, and swirl cream mixture into soup. Serve
¼ cup sour cream with shrimp and lime wedges. Garnish with
2 tablespoons whole milk zest, if desired.

Lime wedges, to serve
Garnish: lime zest
 I N S E ASO N

GEMS
OF THE SEA
recipe development by tricia manzanero | food styling by vanessa rocchio | styling by sidney bragiel

IT’S NO SECRET how much Louisianans love shrimp. Whether they’re fried, boiled, grilled, or sautéed, we enjoy
eating Gulf shrimp just about any way they can be prepared. We adore the briny crustaceans for their versatility on
the plate, and this fall, we’ve cooked up a few exciting ways to highlight their incredible flavor.

GARLIC SHRIMP AND GRITS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
We spiced up this easy shrimp and grits
recipe with a bit of tasso.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter,
divided
⅓ pound tasso, cut into ½-inch cubes
⅓ cup chopped red bell pepper
⅓ cup chopped green onion
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound peeled and deveined large
fresh shrimp (tails left on)
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth,
room temperature
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
White Cheddar Corn Grits
(recipe follows)
Garnish: ground black pepper,
chopped red bell pepper,
chopped fresh parsley
1. In a 12-inch enamel-coated
cast-iron skillet, heat 1 tablespoon
butter over medium heat. Add tasso;
cook, stirring occasionally, until
browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Using
a slotted spoon, transfer tasso to a
medium bowl, reserving drippings in
skillet.
2. Add bell pepper, onion, and garlic
to skillet; cook, stirring constantly,
until softened, 3 to 4 minutes.
Transfer vegetables to bowl with tasso.
3. Add shrimp to skillet; cook until
pink and firm, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer
shrimp to bowl with tasso mixture.
4. Add remaining 2 tablespoons
butter to skillet, and let melt.
Whisk in flour; cook for 1 minute,
whisking constantly. Whisk in broth,
Worcestershire, lemon juice, and
cayenne; bring to a boil over medium-
high heat. Reduce heat to medium;
simmer until thickened, 2 to
4 minutes.
5. Return tasso mixture to skillet; stir
until heated through, 2 to 3 minutes.
Serve immediately with White
Cheddar Corn Grits. Garnish with
black pepper, bell pepper, and parsley,
if desired.
WHITE CHEDDAR CORN GRITS
MAKES 4 CUPS
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup stone-ground yellow corn
grits
1½ cups shredded extra-sharp white
Cheddar cheese
¼ cup mascarpone cheese*
2 tablespoons heavy whipping
cream
1. In a medium saucepan, bring
broth, butter, and salt to a boil over
medium-high heat. Gradually whisk
in grits; reduce heat to medium-
low. Cover and cook, whisking
occasionally, until grits are thickened,
about 20 minutes.
2. Remove from heat; gradually whisk
in Cheddar, mascarpone, and cream.
Serve immediately. (Whisk in an
additional 2 to 4 tablespoons warm
cream if grits become too thick.)
*Cream cheese may be substituted.

23 louisianacookin.com
CHOOSING & STORING
FRESH SHRIMP
Choose: Fresh shrimp should
smell like the sea, and their
flesh should look firm. Avoid
any shrimp that smell like
ammonia, which means the
shrimp are going bad. Shrimp
should not be limp or slimy.
Black spots on the head and
body are another sign of decay.
Store: Fresh shrimp should be
kept in the coldest part of your
fridge and used within 2 days.
SHRIMP
SHR MP AND ANDOUILLE
ANDOU LLE
PASTALAYA
MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS
This weeknight winner packs an
impressive amount of flavor.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
12 ounce package andouille sausage,
cut into ¼-inch-thick slices
1 pound peeled and deveined large
fresh shrimp
1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon
Creole seasoning*, divided
1⅓ cups chopped onion
⅔ cup chopped green bell pepper
⅔ cup chopped celery
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 (28-ounce) can whole plum
tomatoes, undrained
25 louisianacookin.com
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
1 teaspoon firmly packed dark
brown sugar
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
12 ounces fusilli pasta, cooked
according to package directions
Garnish: chopped fresh parsley,
chopped fresh thyme
1. In a large Dutch oven, heat butter
over medium heat. Add andouille;
cook, stirring frequently, until
browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a
slotted spoon, transfer andouille to a
medium bowl.
2. Add shrimp to pot; sprinkle with
½ teaspoon Creole seasoning. Cook,
stirring frequently, until pink and
firm, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer shrimp
to bowl with andouille.
3. Add onion, bell pepper, celery, and
garlic to pot; cook until vegetables
are softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add
tomatoes, broth, parsley, thyme,
brown sugar, salt, and remaining
1 tablespoon Creole seasoning.
Break up tomatoes using a wooden
spoon; bring to a boil. Reduce heat
to medium; simmer until slightly
thickened, about 15 minutes.
4. Stir in andouille mixture and
cooked pasta, tossing to coat. Garnish
with parsley and thyme, if desired.
*We used Zatarain’s Creole Seasoning.
SHRIMP TOAST
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Shrimp toast is a Chinese dim sum

appetizer that is quite popular in New
Orleans. This irresistible combination
of shrimp, green onion, and pimientos
is spread onto slices of white sandwich
bread and pan-fried.

½ pound peeled and deveined large

fresh shrimp
¾ cup chopped green onion
1 egg white
2 tablespoons diced pimientos,
drained
2½ teaspoons soy sauce
2½ teaspoons toasted sesame oil
2 teaspoons cornstarch
2 cloves garlic, grated
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon minced fresh ginger
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Vegetable oil, for frying
8 slices white sandwich bread,
crusts removed
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
Sweet chili sauce*, to serve
Garnish: chopped green onion, black
sesame seeds, white sesame seeds

1. In the work bowl of a food

processor, place shrimp, green onion,
egg white, pimientos, soy sauce,
sesame oil, cornstarch, garlic, salt,
ginger, and cayenne; pulse until finely
minced and well combined, about 4
to 5 pulses, stopping to scrape sides
of bowl.
2. In a 10-inch nonstick skillet, pour
oil to a depth of ¼ inch, and heat
over medium heat until a deep-fry
thermometer registers 325°.
3. Spread shrimp mixture onto each
bread slice. Using a serrated knife,
cut each slice in half diagonally,
creating 2 triangles. Sprinkle with
sesame seeds.
4. Working in batches, fry toast,
shrimp side down, until golden brown,
1 to 2 minutes. Gently turn toast, and
fry until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes
more. Let drain on a wire rack. Serve
immediately with sweet chili sauce.
Garnish with green onion and sesame
seeds, if desired.

*We used Mae Ploy.

AF I E L D & AF LOAT

RIB-EYE
IN THE SKY
by chef john d. folse

IT WAS WHILE lying on my back and looking up the The Native Americans who first roamed this area
sight of a 12-gauge shotgun at a sky blackened with birds knew about the seasonal arrival of ducks and geese,
that I realized I was not a hunter. Even though I came naming one spot in present-day St. James Parish
from a long line of hunters, I couldn’t hit the side of a Cabanosse, “mallards’ roost.” One can imagine how the
barn. My destiny was to cook game, not hunt it. abundance of waterfowl delighted the newly arrived
My father was a phenomenal hunter and as Acadians, discovering that Louisiana was where the birds
comfortable in the swamp as he was on our front porch. they hunted in Nova Scotia in the spring and summer
As a young man, he made a living trapping and hunting. disappeared for the winter.
My birth certificate shows my father’s occupation as It seems waterfowl-hunting would be familiar to
trapper. Our larder was filled with ingredients from the any who arrived in Louisiana from foreign shores. Even
swamp floor, and our back in Egypt, a shrine in the
porch décor was stretched tomb of King Tutankhamun
“LOUISIANA’S ABUNDANT WETLANDS,
hides drying in the sun. shows a depiction of the
My culinary education MARSHES, AND BAYOUS MAKE THIS A pharaoh hunting birds.
in preparing wild delicacies Because his hunting grounds
WATERFOWL PARADISE YEAR-ROUND.”
came from the “Escoffiers” were known as “Swamps of
of Cajun Country. At Enjoyment,” I venture that he
Uncle Paul Zeringue’s camp on Cabanocey Plantation, I would have been at home in Louisiana’s marshes.
learned to make duck and andouille gumbo; at Ivy Bye’s While ducks were common, geese held considerable
camp on Burton Lane, I learned to cook goose breast distinction throughout the ages. The Romans considered
sauce piquante; at Guy Caire’s camp, I watched as swamp geese sacred, and the Greeks domesticated and fattened
meals were prepared for governors, senators, and state them. In medieval Europe, geese of the village were
representatives. presented to conquering heroes. In England, roasted
Louisiana’s abundant wetlands, marshes, and bayous goose was standard fare for St. Michael’s Day and
make this a waterfowl paradise year-round. What elevates Christmas. For me, too, geese are my favorite waterfowl
the state from being a great place to hunt to being to eat. I love wood duck as much as the next guy, but
Sportsman’s Paradise is its location at the southern end of give me a specklebelly and I’m in heaven. I guess others
the Mississippi Flyway, the path hundreds of bird species feel the same, because in south Louisiana, we don’t hunt
take to their southern wintering grounds each year. geese; we hunt “rib-eye in the sky”!

Chef John D. Folse is an entrepreneur with interests ranging from restaurant development to food manufacturing, catering to culinary education.
Similar recipes can be found in After the Hunt: Louisiana’s Authoritative Collection of Wild Game & Game Fish Cookery (Chef John Folse & Company).

27 louisianacookin.com
ROASTED GOOSE WITH
BAKED APPLES
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Recipe courtesy of Chef John Folse
Geese are found by the thousands in
south Louisiana marshlands. In this
recipe, the apples not only flavor the
goose but also make for a beautiful
presentation around the platter.
4¾ teaspoons kosher salt, divided
1½ tablespoons garlic powder
3¼ teaspoons ground black pepper,
divided
2 teaspoons Creole seasoning
1 (8- to 10-pound) specklebelly
goose, rinsed and patted dry
2 cups chopped yellow onion
1 cup chopped celery
1 cup chopped green bell pepper
½ cup chopped carrot
¼ cup minced garlic
1 cup apple brandy or Calvados
1 cup mashed cooked sweet potato
¼ cup firmly packed light brown
sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter,
melted
6 small Honeycrisp apples, cored
6 baby Honeycrisp apples
Garnish: fresh sage leaves
1. Preheat oven to 325°. Place a wire
rack inside a large roasting pan.
2. In a small bowl, stir together
4½ teaspoons salt, garlic powder,
3 teaspoons pepper, and Creole
seasoning. Season goose cavity and
skin with salt mixture. Place onion,
celery, bell pepper, carrot, and garlic
inside cavity. Tie legs with butcher’s
twine; tuck wings behind back. Place
goose, breast side up, in prepared pan.
3. Bake for 45 minutes. Pour brandy
over goose. Bake, basting with juices
every 45 minutes, until an instant-
read thermometer inserted in thickest
portion registers 170°, about 3 hours
more, tenting with foil to prevent
excess browning, if necessary.
4. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl,
combine mashed sweet potato, brown
sugar, melted butter, remaining
¼ teaspoon salt, and remaining
¼ teaspoon pepper. Mound about
3 tablespoons potato mixture on top
of each cored apple.
5. During last 45 minutes of baking,
add potato-topped apples and baby
apples to pan; baste with juices. Let
goose stand for 10 minutes before
carving. Serve with potato-topped
apples and baked baby apples. Garnish
with sage, if desired.

 LO U I S IANA
FO O D WAYS

CÔTE DES
ALLEMANDS
THE HERITAGE AND CULINARY TRADITIONS OF LOUISIANA’S GERMAN COAST

THE FRENCH AND SPANISH INFLUENCE

on Louisiana’s culture and cuisine is evident, but
what many don’t realize is that German settlers also
made significant contributions to those aspects of the
state’s traditions. In the early part of the 18th century,
Germans settled along the Mississippi River in southern
Louisiana, about 20 miles upriver from New Orleans
in what are now known as St. Charles and St. John the
Baptist Parishes. This area became known as Côte des
Allemands, or the German Coast.
Beginning in the 1720s, families from the Rhineland
area of Germany came to the Louisiana colony in the
hope of finding a better life, encouraged by propaganda
from John Law, a notable Scottish economist and director
of the Company of the Indies, which was granted a trade
monopoly in the territory for 25 years. In pamphlets
distributed in Germany, he described Louisiana as a place
with great soil that could raise four crops a year and land
“filled with gold, silver, copper, and lead mines.”
Around 10,000 Germans chose to immigrate to
Louisiana, but fewer than 2,000 completed the journey.
Those early settlers soon proved to have expert farming
skills. They provided rice, vegetables, and other cash crops
to the New Orleans markets and, more than once, saved
the city from famine. The farming tradition is carried on
today by descendants of those settlers.
As the Germans and Acadians began to intermarry,
French culture and language became dominant on the
German Coast. In fact, since French was the language of
the time, many Cajun surnames popular today originated

29 louisianacookin.com
as German names but took on new spellings when
recorded for the census.
However, the German contribution to the area’s
foodways is still evident today. Andouille may have a
French name, but this mainstay of Cajun and Creole
cuisine was heavily influenced by German butchering and
sausage-making traditions. The German communities
held boucheries, during which a pig was slaughtered and
every part was used to make all manner of pork products,
including andouille and other sausages.
The andouille of the German Coast is thick and
smoky, made with lean cuts of pork and a simple blend of
spices. This is in contrast to the French style of andouille,
which is made with tripe and chitterlings. In Mémère’s
Country Creole Cookbook (LSU Press, 2018), lifelong
German Coast resident Nancy Tregre Wilson states,
“The LaPlace style of andouille, which is coarser, leaner,
and more heavily smoked than that made in other parts of
the state, is reflective of robust German cuisine.”
Now a staple ingredient in classic Louisiana dishes
like gumbo and jambalaya, andouille is so emblematic
of the German Coast that in the 1970s, the town of
LaPlace in St. John the Baptist Parish was proclaimed the
“Andouille Capital of the World,” and a festival is held
each fall to celebrate its claim to fame.
Today, the German heritage of the area is celebrated at
the German Coast Farmers’ Market and in butcher shops
and meat markets, where local growers and producers
uphold their ancestors’ traditions and show the impact
Germans had on the agriculture and foodways of these
towns along the Mississippi River.

GERMAN COAST ANDOUILLE MAKERS

JACOB’S WORLD SPUDDY’S WAYNE JACOB’S

FAMOUS ANDOUILLE CAJUN FOODS SMOKEHOUSE AND
505 W. AIRLINE HWY. 2644 HWY. 20 RESTAURANT
LaPlace Vacherie 769 W. 5TH ST.
985.652.9080 225.265.4013 LaPlace
cajunsausage.com facebook.com/SpuddysCajunFoods 985.652.9990
wjsmokehouse.com

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019 30

C H E F ’ S TAB L E

STORIES
OF THE GULF
by caitlin watzke

AT SPOONBILL WATERING HOLE & RESTAURANT, every

Chef Jeremy Conner
Spoonbill Watering Hole & Restaurant
900 Jefferson St. • Lafayette
337.534.0585 • spoonbillrestaurant.com
dish has a story to tell. The restaurant from Chef Jeremy Conner and
partners Stephen Verret and Adam Loftin opened in November 2018
in downtown Lafayette. Named for the roseate spoonbill, a bright
pink wading bird with a spoon-shaped bill, Spoonbill is situated in the
iconic building that was once a Conoco gas station and most recently
home to The Filling Station, a popular restaurant.
Jeremy and his team aim to give diners fun, memorable
experiences. They have created a relaxed atmosphere and gathering
place, keeping the building’s outdoor patio and adding large windows
that fill the interior with lots of natural light and bring the feeling
of outdoor dining inside the restaurant. Outside, the building’s
recognizable pink and purple neon lights greet guests. Inside, they can
watch dishes being prepared in the open kitchen and cocktails being
crafted behind the bar.
An Alabama native who grew up in Pensacola, Florida, Jeremy
has always had a connection to the Gulf Coast and its cuisine. After
starting his professional cooking career in Pensacola, he moved to
Lafayette, where he made a name for himself at the former Village
Café and as the founder of Cellar Salt Co. More recently, he and
Stephen hosted a successful pop-up series before hatching the idea for
Spoonbill and joining forces with Adam.
At Spoonbill, Jeremy shares stories of the Gulf Coast through
his cooking. Spoonbill’s menu is a combination of Southern fare,
global flavors, and reimagined Louisiana classics. It focuses heavily
on Gulf seafood and simply prepared ingredients in dishes such as
BBQ Shrimp in an Urban South Paradise Park beer-butter sauce
and Jeremy’s personal favorite, the Grilled Fish, which is served with
grilled vegetables in a sauce made of their own juices, lemon juice,
and basil. That dish gives him the opportunity to highlight “trash fish”
(species that are often overlooked), like black drum or sheepshead.

31 louisianacookin.com
THAI BASIL DAIQUIRI

CAPRESE PANINI WITH

TOMATO SOUP AU GRATIN

GRILLED FISH
 THIS PAGE (Clockwise from top left) The Burger,
Ice Cream Cookie Sandwiches, and outdoor patio
area at Spoonbill Watering Hole & Restaurant.

“[This place] is about good technique, big flavors in

balance, with a story behind them,” Jeremy says. “[The
Grilled Fish is] extremely simple—one or two notes,
but huge flavor—and it gets to show people how simple,
proper, good technique can make what they thought was
‘trash fish’ something really, really great.”
But beyond the fresh seafood, Spoonbill is also
known for internationally inspired dishes, like its
creative take on the Korean beef and rice dish bibimbap,
and for its cheeseburger, which has become the
restaurant’s top seller.
“Lafayette is definitely a burger town,” Jeremy says.
“When people order the burger, without giving it a
second thought, they are prepared to judge you on your
burger. And so, from the beginning, we knew two things:
we had to have a burger, and it had to be great.”
Jeremy says they settled on a 6-ounce patty for with exciting garnishes. With the outdoor patio and
Spoonbill because its downtown location means the Lafayette’s subtropical climate, Jeremy says, focusing
majority of diners are on their way to do something heavily on tiki cocktails felt like a great fit for the bar
afterward and don’t want to take boxes of leftovers program.
with them. “People are coming here to start their night or
“If you’re going to a show at one of the theater maybe finish it, and we wanted to make sure that we
venues downtown, you’re very likely to stop in with us were never taking ourselves too seriously and always had
and have a drink and dinner before, or maybe even after fun in mind,” Jeremy says.
as well,” Jeremy says. As is evident in its inviting atmosphere, thoughtfully
The bar menu features Louisiana craft beers, natural crafted menu, and festive cocktails, good times are
wines, classic cocktails, mocktails, and tiki drinks always in the making at Spoonbill.

33 louisianacookin.com
 ROASTED BEET SALAD

5
GRILLED FISH
dishes THE BURGER
to try BBQ SHRIMP

CRAB QUESADILLA
 Join Southern Cast Iron this fall for the inaugural Southern Cast Iron
Cook-Off. Held at the Lake Charles Civic Center, this family-
friendly weekend event celebrates cast iron cooking with exciting
live demonstrations, vendor booths, musical acts, and our headlining
event: an amateur cooking competition.
GATHER YOUR TEAM OF HOME COOKS AND PREPARE AN ORIGINAL CAST
IRON-COOKED DISH THAT WILL WOW OUR TEAM OF JUDGES. CHOOSE TO
ENTER ONE OR MORE OF THE FOLLOWING CATEGORIES: MEAT & GAME,
SEAFOOD, SWEET & SAVORY BAKING, AND VEGETABLES & SIDES.

With live music throughout the weekend, this cast iron celebration
will be a hit for all ages. Don’t miss zydeco and Cajun sensations
Rockin’ Dopsie, Geno Delafose & French Rockin’ Boogie, and The
Iceman Special. As the night continues, country music sensation
Craig Morgan will take the stage for an unforgettable closing
performance. Inducted into the Grand Ole Opry in 2008, Craig is
best known for his chart-topping hits “Almost Home,” “Redneck
Yacht Club,” and “That’s What I Love About Sunday.”
Whether you come for the cast iron, delicious food, or
toe-tapping tunes, this autumn weekend is an event that guests
of all ages are sure to enjoy.

To stay up-to-date on information, or to register for the cook-off,

visit southerncastiron.com and follow us on social media.

For more information on Lake Charles,

check out VisitLakeCharles.org.
 live music starring
Craig Morgan

Follow us on social media for the

latest events, news, and updates.

@southerncastiron

@southerncastiron

@castironsouth
 six chefs who are changing the way
we eat, one dish at a time
by samantha moats | photography by john o’hagan

here is nothing the editors of Louisiana Cookin’ Luke Hidalgo of Hambone in Mandeville, Breanne Kostyk

T relish more each year than the issue you hold

in your hands. For 18 years, we and the Chefs
to Watch Advisory Board have savored this
opportunity to share the stories of our Chefs to
Watch, an annual class of talented chefs who represent
the future of Louisiana’s treasured cuisine.
Each year, we select esteemed chefs from across
the state who personify Louisiana’s culinary flair and
hospitality through their work. Each member of this
year’s class thrives on the ability to uphold our state’s
tradition of epicurean ingenuity and displays a knack for
originality on the plate.
The 2019 Chefs to Watch are Jana Billiot of
Restaurant R’evolution in New Orleans, Andrew Green
of 1910 Restaurant & Wine Bar in Lake Charles,
of Josephine Estelle in New Orleans, Paige Lucas of Pork
Belly’s Bar & Grill in Marksville, and Martha Wiggins of
the Elysian Bar in New Orleans.
In addition to appearing here in print, a special Chefs
to Watch Awards Dinner is held every year to celebrate
the current class of chefs alongside their families,
colleagues, and former Chefs to Watch, among other
supporters. Each chef prepares a signature recipe,
developed for the occasion. This unique dinner—held
Monday, August 19, at Galatoire’s in New Orleans—is an
opportunity for these chefs to come together for one night
only and collectively showcase their talents under one roof.
On the pages that follow, get to know each one of
these exceptional chefs and explore what inspires them
in the kitchen and beyond.

37 louisianacookin.com
 TOP ROW, LEFT TO RIGHT: MARTHA WIGGINS, BREANNE KOSTYK
MIDDLE ROW: PAIGE LUCAS, ANDREW GREEN BOTTOM ROW: JANA BILLIOT, LUKE HIDALGO

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019 38

 20 19
Chef Jana Billiot joined chefs John Folse and Rick
Tramonto’s Restaurant R’evolution as sous chef two
years before the restaurant became a reality. Since then,
Jana has raised the bar for exceptional New Orleans
cuisine and risen through the ranks to become chef
de cuisine, leading the charge as R’evolution artfully
reimagines New Orleans classics.
Q: How does it feel to have been part of Restaurant
R’evolution since day one?
It feels like a lot of hard work and hours put in, and it’s
paid off! It feels like my baby, even though I wasn’t the
chef de cuisine starting out. But beyond the [original]
chef de cuisine, Jody Denton, I was the first person
they hired to come in and help them with the kitchen
and menu design, the concept, the culture, the brigade
system—everything we have in place. So, I played a
major role in all those things. It was my first opening
and I had no experience in anything like this, but it’s
been life-changing.
Q: What inspires you the most as a chef?
A majority of our staff are young and influential
chefs who are going online and researching. They’re
inquisitive and want to take on the world with
something new. We all kind of inspire each other in that
sense. We constantly have conversations that start with
something like, “Did you hear about this or that new
cooking method?” I’m always trying to do something
new, different, or better, and that all comes from these
young, super-inspired chefs I get to work with day in
and day out.
WHERE SHE COOKS THE SECRET TO COOKING GREAT LOUISIANA FOOD:
Restaurant R’evolution USING SEASONAL, LOCAL, FRESH INGREDIENTS . . .
777 Bienville St.
New Orleans AND YOU’VE GOTTA KNOW HOW TO
504.553.2277 MAKE A ROUX, FOR REAL.
39 louisianacookin.com
jana billiot Restaurant R’evolution
Q: You’re one of relatively few women leading
kitchens in New Orleans. Has that been a challenge
for you?
I’ve had to prove myself, of course, but that’s not difficult
to do. When you have the character to lead by example,
know what you’re talking about, and can back up what
you have to say, you prove that you deserve your position
and your rank, and there’s no argument. I’m proud to be
part of that small group of women who are in charge and
doing their thing.
Q: What does it mean to you to reinvent a classic
and still remain authentic?
What it means to me is more about a reinterpretation of
an old classic. We’re not changing the main ingredients,
we’re not reinventing the wheel, but we’re having fun
and looking at it from a different angle. Those traditions
and flavor profiles don’t change, but we are giving those
dishes a different type of presentation. For instance, we
may deconstruct a dish to make it more elegant than it
may originally seem. Let’s face it: it’s not like Cajun and
Creole cuisines are necessarily beautiful or elegant, but
they have a lot of flavor and a lot of history to enjoy.
Q: What ingredients do you enjoy working with?
I always look forward to spring when the strawberries
come in. Heirloom and Creole tomatoes are always going
to inspire a dish or two. In the fall, I look forward to using
all these delicious spices that go so well with the fall and
winter squash and gourds. But all year, we have access to
whatever seafood is being caught locally, and it gives us
the freedom to use whatever it is in its prime.
 SEARED GROUPER WITH SMOKED TOMATO DASHI
Try this AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
Find Jana’s signature recipe online at louisianacookin.com/chefstowatchrecipes.

TOP Sea Scallops and Foie Gras. MIDDLE

Turtle Soup. BOTTOM (left to right) Garden
Vegetable Crudités; Restaurant R’evolution.

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019 40

 20 19
Chef Paige Lucas is executive chef and owner of
Pork Belly’s Bar & Grill in Marksville. After
graduating from culinary school, Paige took every
opportunity to deepen her culinary finesse at major
events, including the Cannes Film Festival. From
slow-roasted pork belly to a dark roux crawfish stew,
Paige showcases her heritage and skill alongside rich
Louisiana ingredients.
Q: Where does your love for the culinary world
come from?
As a little Cajun girl, I just remember the smell of
Community Coffee, natural gas, and a fried egg in the
morning. That’s just something that’s so familiar to me,
and it still makes me feel like a child when I have that.
Cooking, for whatever reason, came easy to me. It got
to the point that I thought maybe I should take this
seriously. Believe it or not, I wanted to go to med school
and be a doctor. But I dropped out and told my parents
I wanted to go to culinary school instead. I never knew
this is what I wanted, but I just gravitated toward it.
I really got started when I enrolled at the Louisiana
Culinary Institute in Baton Rouge. From there, it went
from zero to 100 miles an hour.
Q: What made you decide to open Pork Belly’s Bar
& Grill in your hometown?
I’m a native of Avoyelles and grew up in Marksville. I
worked and lived away for a little while, but I came back
here to work for myself. My dad owns his own business,
my grandfather owned his own business, so I always
knew I was going to be in business for myself someday.
WHERE SHE COOKS WHAT’S YOUR DEFINITION OF COMFORT FOOD?
Pork Belly’s Bar & Grill SOMETHING YOU’LL NEED A NAPKIN WITH.
523 Tunica Dr. W.
Marksville A GOOD STEW, OR MAYBE A ROAST BEEF
318.240.0000 PO’ BOY.
41 louisianacookin.com
paige lucas Pork Belly’s Bar & Grill
Q: How has your approach changed in this transition
to being not only a chef but also a restaurant owner?
I’m not always as creative as I used to be, not until I
get back in the kitchen. Whenever I get a chance to be
back there, I have to challenge myself even more than I
used to. But it’s really not so much about me anymore;
it’s about making my other chefs here even better. They
have a lot of creativity, so there’s always something we’re
trying out.
Q: How often do you change the menu, and what
inspires a change?
We change the menu at any opportunity to fully explore
what we can do here, but at least three to four times a
year. The other two chefs will come to me with an idea
and we’ll feed off each other until we make it happen.
I get really inspired when we have a good night at the
restaurant. We’ll top it off with a nightcap and really
analyze what we want to see next. Anything is on the
table for a change.
Q: What’s your cooking philosophy?
I love everything about food. I love the preparation. I
love the intense, fast pace of the kitchen. I’ve said this
before, but I really mean it: food is intimate and should
be treated so. People don’t always go out to eat anymore
just because they’re hungry. Of course they’re hungry,
but more often than not, they’re also going out to enjoy
themselves and have a good time with a significant other
or a couple of friends. What I want is to give someone
that intimate experience, even at Pork Belly’s.
 ROASTED PORK OVER SWEET POTATO SOUFFLÉ
Try this AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
Find Paige’s signature recipe online at louisianacookin.com/chefstowatchrecipes.

TOP Bar area at Pork Belly’s. MIDDLE

Pork Belly’s Bar & Grill. BOTTOM (left
to right) Pork Belly with Thai Slaw; Seared
Tuna.

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019 42

 20 19
martha wiggins
Chef Martha Wiggins came into her own while
heading up the kitchen at Sylvain in New
Orleans’ French Quarter. While she was the gastropub’s
executive chef, she was a semifinalist for the James
Beard Foundation’s 2017 Rising Star Award and 2018
Best Chef South. Now, she is in the kitchen with
2013 Chef to Watch Alex Harrell at the Elysian Bar, a
charming French-Southern bistro inside Hotel Peter &
Paul in the Marigny. Martha is inspired by the variety
of fresh local seafood and seasonal produce, which she
highlights in her flavor-forward dishes.
Q: How did your love for the culinary arts begin?
I got hooked on the adrenaline rush of working in a
busy place. The fast-paced environment really suits
my personality. I always thought of myself as a good
soldier, so the idea that I had any talent in this business
didn’t come for a long time. But I’ve always known
the work suits me. Then I realized I’m not just good at
replicating what another chef does, I’m good at creating
my own food.
Q: How did you end up in New Orleans?
I had been to New Orleans a couple of times when I
was younger, but even then, I knew I would live here
someday. I love the energy and soul of this place.
Something about it connected with me. I moved here
from Massachusetts in 2010. A friend of mine in
Washington state told me she would be driving to New
Orleans and needed a travel buddy. So, I flew out to
Washington and then drove here with her, and I’ve been
here ever since. I love it, and I never want to leave.
WHERE SHE COOKS THE MOST EMBARRASSING THING IN YOUR HOME REFRIGERATOR:
The Elysian Bar
JARS OF PICKLE JUICE WITH NO PICKLES BECAUSE
2317 Burgundy St.
New Orleans I ATE ALL THE PICKLES, SO I DRINK
504.356.6769 THE JUICE.
43 louisianacookin.com
The Elysian Bar
Q: Which Louisiana ingredients do you enjoy the
most? Is there a season you really look forward to?
Summer is great—tomatoes, corn, okra, peas, watermelon.
It’s funny because in summer we get all this stuff and then
everybody leaves [for vacation]. But something I love
about working in New Orleans is the Gulf and the amount
of seafood that we get sustainably and really fresh. It blows
my mind. I’ve learned more about seafood and varieties of
fish than I ever thought I would.
Q: Historically, this industry has been male-
dominated. What’s been your experience?
My story is pretty typical, but I have been lucky to
work with men in the industry who have seen my
value and listened when I needed them to and who
were open to being checked of dominant, aggressive,
or discriminatory behaviors they may or may not have
been aware of. It’s important to me to work with people
who can evolve and break away from conditioned
behaviors and be accountable for them.
Q: What inspires you most as a chef?
Generally, cooks in Louisiana and the United States
don’t make a living wage, and yet they still do it. I’m
inspired by the people I work with across the restaurant
community, who are still willing to do this job even
when they don’t make enough. I’m inspired by this
deranged desire to be a cook or a chef, by people who
are inclined to this life. My current circumstances are
great. Everyone is paid fairly, and tips are shared. In my
opinion, as things exist currently, that’s the only way to
do it, and I wouldn’t have it any other way.
 GULF FISH CEVICHE WITH COCONUT MILK AND CHILES
Try this AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
Find Martha’s signature recipe online at louisianacookin.com/chefstowatchrecipes.

TOP Martha plating a dish at the Elysian Bar. MIDDLE Bar area at the Elysian Bar.
BOTTOM (left to right) Swordfish Belly Crudo; Seared Shrimp and Broccolini.

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019 44

 20 19
In 2015, Lake Charles native Andrew Green
opened 1910 Restaurant & Wine Bar, specializing
in artfully crafted, classic Louisiana dishes. As a certified
Level One sommelier, Andrew also focuses on growing
1910’s extensive wine program, and he recently began
developing a sizable whiskey collection for enthusiasts.
Named for the year a great fire destroyed much of
downtown Lake Charles, 1910 is fittingly situated in the
Phoenix Building—a sure sign this city is continually on
the rise.
Q: Where did your love for the culinary arts begin?
When I was little, my grandmother had a stool that was
just the right height for me to sit [in front of the stove]
and stir the onions. That is my most profound early
memory of cooking. But my culinary discovery really
started while I was living in New Orleans. I tried veal
sweetbreads, the endorphins kicked in, and I went home
to google everything about them. It was a transformative
experience. I was studying prelaw and got an image
of practicing law for a few years and then opening a
restaurant and becoming a chef. My dad talked me out
of that.
Q: Why did you open your restaurant in Lake
Charles?
Lake Charles is a strong community of individuals.
It’s a fun time to be a part of this community. When I
came back here, we didn’t really have much on par with
restaurants I loved in New Orleans, so I wanted to be
part of bringing some of that here.
WHERE HE COOKS THE KITCHEN TOOLS YOU CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT:
1910 Restaurant & Wine Bar
SHARPENED KNIVES FROM
949 Ryan St.
Lake Charles COUTELIER NOLA.
337.602.6278
45 louisianacookin.com
andrew green 1910 Restaurant & Wine Bar
Q: Your restaurant is four years old this year. What’s
been the best part about reaching this milestone?
It’s definitely a milestone because there’s no resource
to tell you exactly how to do all of this. We’ve seen and
embraced that business side of running a restaurant. But
now, I finally feel like we can really take off. It’s good to
feel established.
Q: What’s your approach to coming up with
something new or making changes?
With that, there’s this whole thing about deconstructing
the dishes. You have to show respect to the tradition and
the history of the dish and those techniques behind the
dishes. So, whenever I’m cooking, I’m constantly looking
at it from that perspective. There are also a lot of wines
and foods that just naturally pair together because those
things are from the same geographical place. When
we’re doing a course for a dinner that we’re pairing with
a wine, we’re looking at the history behind the wine and
the food and the region they come from. Then we build
the menu around that with quality and integrity.
Q: What do you enjoy most about being a chef?
I’m in a special position to be able to own my business.
I get to enjoy this bigger picture but also do the dirty
work and the pretty work at the same time. There’s
nothing I love more than butchering a bunch of fillets,
making sure they look good, and sending them out. But
interacting with people is also important and rewarding
to me. Going out into the dining room and seeing people
having a good time—that’s a wonderful experience.
 LOUISIANA SEAFOOD GUMBO CROQUETTE
Try this AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
Find Andrew’s signature recipe online at louisianacookin.com/chefstowatchrecipes.

TOP Braised Pork Cheeks. MIDDLE Duck Breast.

BOTTOM (left to right) Bacon-Crusted Scallops;
1910 Restaurant & Wine Bar.

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019 46

 20 19
Luke Hidalgo honed his skills as a chef at
Commander’s Palace under the tutelage of Chef
Tory McPhail and the hospitable direction of Ella
Brennan and Ti Martin. Luke’s time at Commander’s
were formative years for his career, but it’s also where he
met his wife, Marci. Together, they co-own Hambone in
Mandeville, with Marci handling the front of the house
and Luke leading the kitchen with his artistic approach
to both Louisiana and Southern fare.
Q: Now that Hambone has been open for more than
a year, what is the best thing about the community
you’ve built around the restaurant?
There’s a refreshingly abundant number of foodies up
here. I think our menu does a good job of balancing
creative food with more simple, traditional food. We
weren’t sure what this community would be more
interested in, and it’s great to see so many people
into an artistic approach that recalls something more
traditional. But more importantly, Marci and I had
a vision for a restaurant that really catered to local
families, people like ourselves who have kids who are
loud in a great way. To be able to bring your kids to play
and have a good time while you have a good meal is
important. It’s something we take pride in because it’s
hard sometimes just to get a kid to eat their dinner.
Q: How do you and Marci stay grounded as a family
and still maintain that creative element of running a
restaurant?
The hours and days aren’t typical, so we have to work,
plan, and schedule. When we’re off, we’re off and we
WHERE HE COOKS FAVORITE ROAD TRIP SNACK:
Hambone PEANUT M&M’S, FUNYUNS, A LINK OF BOUDIN,
544 Girod St.
Mandeville FRESH CRACKLIN’S, AND BOILED PEANUTS
985.778.0531 WITH AN ORANGE CRUSH SODA.
47 louisianacookin.com
luke hidalgo Hambone
don’t talk about work. Our family is our main focus at all
times. Something I learned at Commander’s Palace from
Ella and Ti is that at the end of the day, the restaurant
business is a people business. It’s how you treat people—
your customers, yes, but also your employees. We live
by example, and we’re creating a culture that gets people
excited and empowers them to be in this industry.
Everything we do is filtered through the idea of what
Hambone is about to us, and that keeps me passionate
about the food.
Q: What inspires you the most as a chef?
It’s important to us to have our own worldview and
vision when it comes to our food and not get so caught
up in keeping up with the Joneses. It’s no fun when you
do that. I feel lucky in the sense that I truly love food and
am interested in it on a base level. So, I get excited when
a new season comes around, like stone fruit season.
That’s its own inspiration. When I see something like
heirloom tomatoes or muscadines coming in, I start
wondering what we’re going to do with them.
Q: What’s your method for changing something or
creating something new?
From A to B, it’s a lot of teamwork and collaboration.
Things just happen naturally when you’re surrounded
by people who all care about food. We try to find that
correlation to your grandmother’s cooking or create
something that tastes like you’ve had it your whole life.
A little new, a little creative, a little stimulating, but
tethered to down-home. If I’m going to make something,
I want you to enjoy it. I feel like it’s my gift.
 BURRATA AND SPOONBREAD WITH WATERMELON
Try this HOT SAUCE AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
Find Luke’s signature recipe online at louisianacookin.com/chefstowatchrecipes.

TOP Luke preparing biscuits to be baked at Hambone. MIDDLE

Yellowfin Tuna. BOTTOM (left to right) Dining room at Hambone;
Shrimp Remoulade Blue Wedge.

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019 48

 20 19
Born and raised in Connecticut, Chef Breanne
Kostyk is a self-taught pastry chef with a
background in graphic design. She arrived in the South
to help launch PieLab, a community-focused pie shop in
Greensboro, Alabama. Breanne is currently the pastry
chef of Josephine Estelle at New Orleans’ Ace Hotel,
using her creativity to develop seasonal desserts that
build on a variety of textures and flavors.
Q: Where does your love of baking and pastries
come from?
It comes from growing up and baking, mostly during
the holidays with my mother. We’d bake simple things
like cookies and pies, but she was always a cake decora-
tor. For our birthdays, we’d have beautifully decorated
cakes. There’s a nostalgic element to baking that I like.
Q: Is nostalgia a form of inspiration for you?
For my desserts, I love to have some element of
nostalgia. People generally like to eat something that
reminds them of something they remember and enjoy.
But I also like to get inspired by things that aren’t
necessarily dessert, so taking savory things and figuring
out a way to incorporate that in pastry techniques and
certain flavors. One time, I did a sweet pea panna cotta
with lemon curd and blackberries, so I like to have that
balance where my desserts aren’t too sweet.
Q: How does your background in design influence
your work as a pastry chef?
I’m designing a dish—that’s the way I approach it. It’s
always fun and challenging to be designing with so
WHERE SHE BAKES GO-TO LATE-NIGHT SNACK:
Josephine Estelle
600 Carondelet St. PISTACHIO ICE CREAM.
New Orleans
504.930.3070
49 louisianacookin.com
breanne kostyk Josephine Estelle
many things in mind, from the textures and the flavors to
what it actually looks like. There are so many levels that
are fun for me to create.
Q: How do you use seasonality to your advantage at
Josephine Estelle?
I try not to repeat desserts, but I am always trying to
change up the menu. So, it may be the same kind of
dessert, but it’s made with different ingredients. For
example, there’s almost always some kind of panna cotta
on the menu, but it will incorporate different ingredients.
Q: Do you have any favorite flavor combinations?
Right now, we have a dessert on the menu with pistachio,
blackberries, and passion fruit. I just imagined them
being good together, and it’s become one of my favorites.
Q: What is your pastry philosophy?
For every dessert, I always try to have that balance of
salty, acidic, fatty—I can’t eat a dessert that’s only sweet.
It’s fun to play around with vegetal elements and give
somebody something they wouldn’t expect. I’m big on
textures. I think every dish needs a little crunch and
creaminess in one bite.
Q: Do you have a signature pastry at Josephine Estelle?
One of the first things that was on the menu—and it’s
never come off—is the Peanut Butter Budino. It’s salty,
sweet, and crunchy. That’s been a favorite since we
opened, and it’s always been the same. It’s one of those
things you don’t mess with. But my personal favorite is
always pie—just because it is so nostalgic.

 CHARRED SOURDOUGH PANNA COTTA
Try this AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
Find Breanne’s signature recipe online at louisianacookin.com/chefstowatchrecipes.

TOP Peanut Butter Budino. MIDDLE

Dining room at Josephine Estelle.
BOTTOM (left to right) “Better Humor”
Strawberry Shortcake; Pistachio Mousse.

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019 50

 WAYS WI
EW TH
N

photography by nicole du bois

recipe development by kathleen kanen and laura crandall
food styling by kathleen kanen
styling by beth k. seeley
 ITH THEIR EASY-TO-PEEL SKIN AND SWEET-TART FLAVOR,
SATSUMAS ARE ONE OF OUR FAVORITE LOUISIANA FRUITS.
THEY’RE GREAT FOR SNACKING BUT ALSO FOR INCORPORATING
INTO ALL KINDS OF SWEET AND SAVORY RECIPES. THIS SEASON, TRY SIX
NEW WAYS TO MAKE THE MOST OF THE BAYOU STATE’S SATSUMA CROP.

SATSUMA AND
SHRIMP SALAD

P. 58

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019 52

 SEARED TUNA
WITH SPICY NOODLES

P. 58
SATSUMA MULE
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Gingeroo is a ready-to-drink ginger cocktail made

with Old New Orleans Crystal Rum. It is sold in
various stores throughout the New Orleans area.

2 cups ice
1 (750-ml) bottle Gingeroo*
¾ cup fresh satsuma juice
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Garnish: satsuma slices, lime slices

1. Place ice in a large pitcher. Add Gingeroo,

satsuma juice, and lime juice, stirring to combine.
Serve over ice. Garnish with satsuma slices and lime
slices, if desired.

*If Gingeroo isn’t available, combine 2½ cups spicy

ginger beer with ½ cup white rum in a large pitcher.

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019 54

SATSUMA-GLAZED SHRIMP
SHR MP
AND BRA
BRAISED
SED PORK BELLY
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
This recipe should be started a day ahead
because the pork dry-brines overnight
before being braised for several hours.
The glaze can be made the day before
and refrigerated.
1 (1¾-pound) pork belly
⅓ cup firmly packed dark brown
sugar
2 tablespoons plus ⅛ teaspoon
kosher salt, divided
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
½ teaspoon satsuma zest
2 cups fresh satsuma juice, divided
1½ tablespoons cornstarch
1½ tablespoons cane syrup
1¼ teaspoons Creole seasoning,
divided
1 cup water
55 louisianacookin.com
24 extra-large fresh shrimp, peeled
and deveined (tails left on)
(about 1½ pounds)
8 large metal skewers
Grilled green onions, to serve
Garnish: smoked paprika
1. Trim excess fat from pork belly; cut
into 24 pieces. In a large resealable
plastic bag, combine pork belly, brown
sugar, 2 tablespoons salt, pepper,
paprika, and zest. Seal bag, and toss to
coat. Refrigerate overnight.
2. In a small saucepan, whisk together
1 cup satsuma juice, cornstarch, cane
syrup, ¼ teaspoon Creole seasoning,
and remaining ⅛ teaspoon salt.
Bring to a boil over medium-high
heat; cook for 1 minute, whisking
constantly. Remove from heat. Let
cool completely. Reserve ⅓ cup glaze
for serving.
3. Preheat oven to 325°.
4. Remove pork from bag, discarding
any liquid. Pat pork dry with a paper
towel. Place pork in a shallow 2-quart
baking dish. Add 1 cup water and
remaining 1 cup satsuma juice.
5. Bake, covered, until tender, about
1½ hours. Remove pork from dish,
discarding liquid. Let stand until cool
enough to handle, about 30 minutes.
6. Sprinkle shrimp with remaining
1 teaspoon Creole seasoning. Thread
shrimp and pork belly onto skewers.
7. Spray a grill pan with cooking
spray, and heat over medium-high
heat. Reduce heat to medium.
Working in batches, grill skewers,
turning frequently and basting
occasionally with satsuma glaze, until
shrimp are pink and firm and pork is
browned, about 6 minutes. Drizzle
skewers with reserved ⅓ cup glaze.
Serve with grilled green onions.
Garnish with paprika, if desired.
MINI SATSUMA VANILLA
BUNDT CAKES

P. 58
SATSUMA-LACQUERED
QUAIL
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Satsuma juice and pepper jelly make
a spicy, citrusy glaze that accents the
light, delicate flavor of quail.
2 cups fresh satsuma juice
3 tablespoons red pepper jelly
2 tablespoons dark rum
1 tablespoon cane vinegar
1⅛ teaspoons kosher salt, divided
2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
12 semiboneless quail (dressed)
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
57 louisianacookin.com
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
Garnish: seared satsuma slices, bay
leaves
1. In a large nonreactive saucepan,
bring satsuma juice, pepper jelly, rum,
vinegar, ⅛ teaspoon salt, and bay
leaves to a boil over medium-high
heat. Boil until reduced to ¾ cup,
15 to 17 minutes. Remove from heat;
discard bay leaves. Reserve ¼ cup
satsuma mixture for serving.
2. Preheat oven to 450°.
3. In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon
oil over medium-high heat. Sprinkle
quail with pepper and remaining
1 teaspoon salt. Add half of quail to
skillet; cook until browned, 1 to
2 minutes per side. Place on a
large rimmed baking sheet. Repeat
with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and
remaining quail. Brush quail with
satsuma mixture.
4. Bake for 7 minutes. Turn quail, and
brush with satsuma mixture. Bake
until an instant-read thermometer
inserted in thickest portion registers
165°, about 7 minutes more, brushing
with pan juices. Place on a serving
platter. Sprinkle with thyme. Drizzle
with reserved ¼ cup satsuma mixture.
Garnish with satsuma slices and bay
leaves, if desired.
SATSUMA AND SHRIMP SALAD
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
(photo on page 52)
With the season’s best satsumas, this
colorful salad is anything but boring.
⅓ cup fresh satsuma juice
1 tablespoon Creole mustard
½ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon hot sauce
½ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon kosher
salt, divided
5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
¾ cup sliced red onion
1½ pounds peeled and deveined
extra-large fresh shrimp
(tails left on)
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
8 cups loosely packed fresh arugula
1 cup fresh satsuma sections
(about 4 satsumas)
¼ cup chopped toasted pecans
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together
satsuma juice, mustard, sugar, hot
sauce, and ⅛ teaspoon salt; gradually
whisk in 2 tablespoons oil. Add onion;
cover and let stand for 1 hour.
2. In a large skillet, heat 1½ tablespoons
oil over medium-high heat. Sprinkle
shrimp with pepper and remaining
½ teaspoon salt. Add half of shrimp
to skillet; cook until pink and firm,
about 2 minutes per side. Remove
from skillet. Repeat with remaining
1½ tablespoons oil and remaining
shrimp. Let cool slightly.
3. On a large serving platter, arrange
arugula, satsuma sections, and shrimp.
Sprinkle with pecans and parsley.
Remove onion from dressing; arrange
on top of salad. Serve immediately
with dressing.
SEARED TUNA WITH SPICY
NOODLES
MAKES 2 SERVINGS
(photo on page 53)
Bursting with bright, citrus flavor, our
satsuma ponzu sauce pairs perfectly
with seared tuna and rice noodles.
2 tablespoons fresh satsuma juice
2 tablespoons mirin (sweet
Japanese rice wine)
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon seasoned rice vinegar
1 cup chopped fresh satsuma
sections
2 tablespoons chopped fresh
cilantro
⅛ teaspoon crushed red pepper
4 ounces brown rice pad Thai
noodles, cooked according
to package directions, rinsed
in cold water, and drained
2 teaspoons dark sesame oil
2 teaspoons ground chile paste*
1 teaspoon black sesame seeds
½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger
½ teaspoon satsuma zest
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 (5-ounce) tuna steaks
(about ¾ inch thick)
¾ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1. In a small bowl, whisk together
satsuma juice, mirin, soy sauce, and
vinegar. Set aside.
2. In another small bowl, gently toss
together satsuma sections, cilantro,
and red pepper. Set aside.
3. In a medium bowl, toss together
cooked noodles, sesame oil, chile
paste, sesame seeds, ginger, and zest.
Set aside.
4. In a medium skillet, heat vegetable
oil over medium-high heat. Sprinkle
tuna with black pepper and salt. Add
tuna to skillet; cook until browned on
both sides, about 2 minutes per side.
Reduce heat to medium; cook until
medium (pink in center), about
2 minutes more per side. Remove
from skillet; let rest for 10 minutes.
Cut into slices.
5. Divide noodles and tuna between
2 serving plates. Serve with sauce and
salsa.
*We used sambal oelek.
MINI SATSUMA VANILLA
BUNDT CAKES
MAKES 6 MINI BUNDT CAKES
(photo on page 56)
These satsuma-infused mini Bundts are
sweet, satisfying desserts.
½ cup unsalted butter, softened
1 cup sugar
2 large eggs
1 egg yolk
2 teaspoons satsuma zest
(from about 2 satsumas)
2 teaspoons vanilla bean paste
1 cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon kosher salt
⅓ cup sour cream
Satsuma Glaze (recipe follows)
Garnish: satsuma zest
1. Preheat oven to 350°.
2. In a large bowl, beat butter and
sugar with a mixer at medium speed
until fluffy, 5 to 6 minutes, stopping
to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs and
egg yolk, one at a time, beating well
after each addition. Stir in zest and
vanilla bean paste.
3. In a medium bowl, sift together
flour and salt. With mixer on low
speed, gradually add flour mixture
to butter mixture alternately with
sour cream, beginning and ending
with flour mixture, beating just until
combined after each addition.
4. Spray a 6-well mini Bundt pan
with baking spray with flour. Spoon
batter into prepared wells.
5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted
near center comes out clean, 15 to
20 minutes. Let cool in pan for
10 minutes. Remove from pan, and
let cool completely on a wire rack.
Place wire rack over a sheet of
parchment paper. Pour Satsuma
Glaze over cooled cakes. Garnish
with zest, if desired.
SATSUMA GLAZE
MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP
1½ cups confectioners’ sugar
3 tablespoons fresh satsuma juice
1. In a small bowl, whisk together
confectioners’ sugar and satsuma juice
until smooth. Use immediately.

 SHRIMP AND
ANDOUILLE JAMBALAYA

P. 66
 Pure
LOUISIANA

A
a quintessential dish of both Cajun and Creole cuisines, jambalaya holds a
sppecial place in the canon of Louisiana cooking. This one-pot wonder builds
d
deep flavors with rice, the trinity (onion, celery, and bell pepper), and various
roteins such as poultry, sausage, and shrimp. This menu highlights one of
our ffavorite
i jambalayas, packed with plump Louisiana shrimp and smoky andouille
sausage, and rounds out the meal with a few hearty appetizers, sides, and a dessert
you’re sure to love.
photography by nicole du bois
recipe development and food styling by kathleen kanen
styling by beth k. seeley
 SMOKED PAPRIKA
PAPR KA
AND BUTTERMILK
CORNBREAD

P. 66

61 louisianacookin.com
ROASTED OYSTERS WITH
GREEN CHILE-GARLIC
BUTTER
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
We used The Oyster Bed, a metal oyster
dish, but you could use 6 (4-ounce)
ramekins. Visit theoysterbed.com to
purchase or find retailers.
6 large fresh oysters, shucked
Green Chile-Garlic Butter (recipe
follows)
¼ cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
⅛ teaspoon garlic powder
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ cup sliced green onion
French bread, to serve
1. Preheat oven to 425°.
2. Arrange oysters in an oyster
baking container. Top each oyster
with 1 tablespoon Green Chile-Garlic
Butter.
3. Bake until oysters begin to curl
around the edges, about 8 minutes.
Remove from oven. Increase oven
temperature to broil.
4. In a small bowl, toss together bread
crumbs, oil, garlic powder, salt, and
pepper. Sprinkle oysters with bread
crumbs mixture. Add ⅓ cup Green
Chile-Garlic Butter to well.
5. Broil on middle rack of oven until
lightly browned, about 2 minutes.
Sprinkle with green onion. Serve
immediately with bread and additional
Green Chile-Garlic Butter.
Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019
GREEN CHILE-GARLIC BUTTER
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
2 cups unsalted butter, softened
2 (4-ounce) cans diced green
chiles, drained and patted dry
1 teaspoon garlic powder
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1. In a medium bowl, beat all
ingredients with a mixer at medium
speed until combined. Spoon into
a small bowl. Serve immediately, or
cover and refrigerate until ready to
serve.
62
 PICKLED OKRA AND RED
ONION SALAD WITH CREOLE
MUSTARD DRESSING

P. 66

63 louisianacookin.com
TASSO-BRAISED GREENS
MAKES 12 CUPS
If cane vinegar and cane syrup aren’t
available, use distilled white vinegar and
1 tablespoon molasses. Smoky bacon
may be used in place of tasso.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cups chopped onion
1 cup chopped tasso
3 cloves garlic, chopped
6 cups chicken broth
1 pound chopped collard greens
1 pound chopped kale
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper
2 tablespoons cane vinegar
2 tablespoons cane syrup
1. In a large stockpot, heat oil over
medium-high heat. Add onion and tasso;
cook until browned, about 5 minutes.
Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019
Add garlic; cook until fragrant, about
1 minute. Add broth, and scrape
browned bits from bottom of pot.
2. Reduce heat to medium. Add
one-third of collard greens and
one-third of kale, stirring until wilted.
Repeat with remaining collard greens
and remaining kale. Add salt, black
pepper, and red pepper; bring to a
boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer
until tender, about 45 minutes. Stir in
vinegar and cane syrup.
64
PICKLED
P CKLED OKRA AND RED
ON ON SALAD WITH
ONION W TH CREOLE
MUSTARD DRESSING
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
(photo on page 63)
Pickled okra and a Creole mustard-
based dressing give this salad lots of
tang, which pairs well with the smoky
flavors in our jambalaya and cornbread.
1 (16-ounce) jar pickled okra,
undrained
¾ cup sliced red onion
⅔ cup Creole mustard
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup whole buttermilk
1 head red leaf lettuce, torn
8 small tomatoes, quartered
or halved
1. Remove 8 okra and ⅓ cup brine
from jar. Cut okra in half lengthwise.
In a shallow bowl, combine halved
okra, ⅓ cup brine, and onion. Cover
and let stand for 1 hour. Drain.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together
mustard, mayonnaise, and buttermilk.
Arrange lettuce, tomatoes, and okra
mixture on a serving platter. Serve
immediately with mustard dressing.
SMOKED PAPRIKA AND
BUTTERMILK CORNBREAD
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
(photo on page 61)
Add even more flavor to this cornbread
by using bacon drippings in place
of vegetable oil. The peppers can be
chopped and stirred into the batter.
6 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
2 cups stone-ground cornmeal
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
⅜ teaspoon baking soda
2 cups whole buttermilk
3 large eggs
3 jalapeños, sliced
3 red Fresno chile peppers, sliced
Green Chile-Garlic Butter (recipe on
page 62), to serve
1. Preheat oven to 425°. Place
3 tablespoons oil in a 13x9-inch
baking pan. Place pan in oven until
very hot, about 5 minutes.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together
cornmeal, flour, baking powder,
paprika, salt, and baking soda. In a
small bowl, whisk together buttermilk,
eggs, and remaining 3 tablespoons
oil. Make a well in center of dry
ingredients; add buttermilk mixture,
stirring until combined. Spoon batter
into hot pan, spreading evenly.
Arrange peppers on top of batter.
3. Bake until a wooden pick inserted
in center comes out clean, 15 to
17 minutes. Let cool in pan on a wire
rack for 30 minutes before cutting
into squares. Serve with Green Chile-
Garlic Butter.
SHRIMP AND ANDOUILLE
JAMBALAYA
MAKES ABOUT 12 CUPS
(photo on page 59)
Baking this jambalaya helps the flavors
of the ingredients come together for an
incredibly tasty result.
4 tablespoons vegetable oil,
divided
1½ cups chopped onion
1½ cups chopped celery
¾ cup chopped green bell pepper
¾ cup chopped red bell pepper
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound andouille sausage, sliced
2 cups long-grain rice
2 cups beef broth
2 cups water
2 tablespoons chopped fresh
parsley
2 tablespoons fresh thyme
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 bay leaves
1 pound peeled and deveined large
fresh shrimp (tails left on)
Garnish: chopped fresh parsley, fresh
thyme, ground black pepper
1. Preheat oven to 325°.
2. In a large cast-iron Dutch oven,
heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-
high heat. Add onion, celery, and bell
peppers. Cook, stirring frequently,
until tender, about 3 minutes. Add
garlic; cook until fragrant, about
1 minute. Remove onion mixture from
pot; set aside.
3. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons
oil in pot. Add andouille; cook until
Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019
browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in
onion mixture, rice, broth, 2 cups
water, parsley, thyme, salt, black
pepper, cayenne, and bay leaves.
Bring to a boil over medium-high
heat. Cover with lid.
4. Bake until rice is tender, about
30 minutes. Remove from oven. Stir
in shrimp; let stand, covered, until
shrimp are pink and firm, about
10 minutes. Fluff with a fork. Discard
bay leaves before serving. Garnish
with parsley, thyme, and pepper,
if desired.
SKILLET PECAN AND
CHOCOLATE BLONDIES
MAKES 1 (10-INCH) SKILLET
Topped with chocolate and pecans and
served with ice cream, this indulgent
treat is the ultimate way to round out
a hearty meal.
1½ cups firmly packed light brown
sugar
1 cup unsalted butter, melted and
slightly cooled
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 (4-ounce) bar bittersweet
chocolate, chopped and divided
1 cup chopped toasted pecans,
divided
Vanilla ice cream, to serve
1. Preheat oven to 325°. Spray a
10-inch cast-iron skillet with baking
spray with flour.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together
brown sugar and melted butter until
smooth. Whisk in eggs and vanilla.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together
flour, baking powder, and salt.
Gradually add sugar mixture to flour
mixture, stirring to combine. Stir in
half of chocolate and ½ cup pecans.
Spread batter into prepared pan.
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted
near edge comes out clean, top is
golden brown, and center is set, about
30 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining
chocolate and remaining ½ cup
pecans. Let cool for 1 hour on a wire
rack. Serve with ice cream.

66
 DINING
TO THE
NINES
OUR FAVORITE PLACES
FOR FINE DINING IN LOUISIANA

T
he Bayou State has a universal reputation for exceptional dining—crisp linens or not. However,
there are few greater pleasures than honoring a special occasion with an exquisite meal. Whether
it’s an intimate birthday party, an engagement celebration, or simply just because, it goes without
saying that unique events require venues with a certain something to the atmosphere to help seal those
memories forever in the mind.
From New Orleans to Shreveport, we have selected a few of our favorite restaurants throughout the
state that represent the best when it comes to elevated dining experiences. Each one of these establishments
upholds a distinctly Louisiana approach to Southern hospitality coupled with a willingness to cleverly
innovate our state’s culinary traditions and continue to set them apart from the rest.
 BRIGTSEN’S
1 New Orleans
Native New Orleanian Frank Brigtsen’s namesake
Riverbend neighborhood restaurant, co-owned
with his wife, Marna, is a Crescent City fine-dining
essential. Brigtsen’s menu draws heavily from both
Creole and Acadian culinary heritages to create
hyper-seasonal reinventions. Dishes such as Pan-
Fried Des Allemands Catfish prove seafood is a
shining star on Brigtsen’s ever-changing menu, and
the Filé Gumbo is a near-legendary recipe featuring
rabbit and andouille.
brigtsens.com

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019 68


4
BAYONA
2 New Orleans
Fixed within a centuries-old French
Quarter Creole cottage is Bayona, the
combined efforts of Regina Keever’s
hospitality and Chef Susan Spicer’s award-
winning and globally influenced food.
Bayona’s menu hints at Mediterranean
and Asian cuisine while utilizing a wealth
of local ingredients to present dishes such
as Sautéed Pompano or Fennel Pepper-
Crusted Lamb Loin in style.
bayona.com
69 louisianacookin.com
2 3
BELLA FRESCA
3 Shreveport
Upscale and intimate, Bella Fresca is
Shreveport’s best fine-dining hideaway. Chef
David Bridges draws inspiration from many
cultures to highlight Louisiana ingredients
in dishes such as Homemade Fettuccine,
served with andouille and Gulf shrimp in a
mushroom cream sauce. On occasion, Bella
Fresca offers unique desserts modeled after
nostalgic treats like MoonPies or Fudge
Rounds to nurture the child in each of us.
bellafresca.com
RALPH’S ON THE PARK
4 New Orleans
Ralph’s on the Park overlooks New
Orleans’ beautiful City Park in the Mid-City
neighborhood. Dining at Ralph’s is a moving
experience whether unassumingly having a
few courses in the company of good friends
or celebrating a grand occasion. With Chef
Chip Flanagan’s farm-to-table approach to a
diverse array of internationally inspired fare,
dishes like redfish with brown butter glaze and
Tempura Shrimp Creole are not to be missed.
ralphsonthepark.com
 COMMANDER’S PALACE
5 New Orleans
Nestled in a turquoise Victorian mansion
in New Orleans’ historic Garden District
is Commander’s Palace, a Crescent City
landmark for more than a century. The
iconic restaurant is world-famous for both
its celebratory atmosphere (think jazz
brunch and 25-cent martinis) and Chef
Tory McPhail’s menu of “Haute Creole”
delicacies, including staples such as the
Turtle Soup, Pecan Roasted Gulf Fish, and
Creole Bread Pudding Soufflé.
commanderspalace.com

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019 70

 TABLEAU
6 New Orleans
With an up close view of Jackson Square,
Tableau is situated truly in the heart of
the French Quarter. Local ingredients are
displayed on a menu overflowing with
rethought Creole dishes such as Redfish
Bienville, intermingled with flavors from
around the world. Tableau also offers an
extensive variety of regionally sourced
oysters and other seafood, a decadent
sampling of which can be found in
Tableau’s Demi Royale and Grand Royale.
tableaufrenchquarter.com
71 louisianacookin.com
VIC & ANTHONY’S
7 STEAKHOUSE
Lake Charles
Located within Lake Charles’ Golden
Nugget Hotel & Casino, Vic & Anthony’s
Steakhouse pulls no punches when it comes
to its premium selection of high-quality
beef, topped with savory complements
when desired. Intimate and sophisticated,
the restaurant also boasts a range of other
delightful dishes, including Gulf Red Snapper
and the Double Cut Prime Pork Chop, in
addition to superb wines and decadent
desserts. vicandanthonys.com
7 8
CRISTIANO RISTORANTE
8 Houma
With Chef Lindsay Mason, a member of our
2012 class of Chefs to Watch, at the helm,
Houma’s Cristiano Ristorante establishes
itself as a classic Italian restaurant with an
elegant yet familial charm. Lindsay is famous
for his Chargrilled Oysters, accented with a
smoky red pepper garlic butter, and dishes
like Piccolo Filetto, a chargrilled petite filet
that arrives to the table with tantalizing
companions such as Brie risotto and butter-
poached crabmeat.
cristianoristorante.com
 CLANCY’S
9 New Orleans
This popular restaurant in Uptown New Orleans is beloved for its menu of
French-Creole classics, neighborhood feel, and knowledgeable wait staff.
Start your meal with an order of the Fried Oysters with Brie and then dig into
delicacies like Smoked Soft Shell Crab with Crabmeat and Meuniere or the
Veal Chop with Roast Tomatoes and a Fresh Herb Demi Glace. And whatever
you do, make sure to finish with Clancy’s famous lemon icebox pie!
clancysneworleans.com

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019 72

 EMERIL’S DELMONICO
10 10 New Orleans
Delmonico originally opened in 1895 on the eve of the
20th century. Emeril Lagasse acquired and reopened the
historic Creole restaurant in 1997, propelling it into the
21st century with an added modern touch. The kitchen,
led by Chef Anthony Scanio, turns out elevated yet
approachable, ingredient-driven fare with favorites such as
Jumbo Lump Crabmeat Remick, the house-aged Moulard
Duck Breast, and Quail Clemenceau.
emerilsrestaurants.com/emerils-delmonico

MANSURS ON THE BOULEVARD

11 Baton Rouge
Mansurs on the Boulevard has been a Baton Rouge fine-
dining staple since 1989, reminding us that contemporary
Creole cuisine will always pair well with white linens. Its
luscious Cream of Brie & Crabmeat soup has been on the
menu since day one (and for good reason), and Cedar-
Roasted Redfish is affectionately known as the dish that
made Mansurs famous.
mansursontheboulevard.com

OXLOT 9
12 Covington
Chef Jeffrey Hansell’s Oxlot 9 is just inside downtown
Covington’s picturesque Southern Hotel. There, the 2015
Chef to Watch and his wife and partner, Amy, embrace the
art of Southern hospitality and showcase seasonal south
Louisiana ingredients. Jeffrey ensures Oxlot 9’s menu is
ever-evolving with yearly reinventions of his popular Steam
Pot, in addition to other dishes featuring fresh Gulf seafood
in its prime.

oxlot9.com

11 12

73 louisianacookin.com
 S W E E TS

GOOEY
GOODNESS
photography by jim bathie | recipe development by laura crandall | styling by lucy finney

IS THERE ANY WEEKEND BREAKFAST more indulgent than warm cinnamon rolls covered in decadent cream
cheese icing? This recipe features smoky cane syrup mixed right into the dough for an unmistakably Louisiana flavor
and takes things to the next level by studding the swirls with chopped pecans. Whipping up a batch of these will
make for the ultimate start to any morning.

CANE SYRUP PECAN
CINNAMON ROLLS
MAKES 12
Waking up is easy with these nutty
cinnamon rolls slathered with cream
cheese icing.
4½ cups all-purpose flour
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated
sugar, divided
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 (0.25-ounce) package instant
yeast
¾ cup whole milk
½ cup unsalted butter
⅓ cup cane syrup
2 large eggs, room temperature
and lightly beaten
¾ cup firmly packed light brown
sugar
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons unsalted butter,
softened
¾ cup finely chopped pecans
Cane Cream Cheese Icing
(recipe follows)
Garnish: cane syrup
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the paddle attachment, combine
flour, 1 tablespoon granulated sugar,
salt, and yeast by hand.
2. In a small saucepan, heat milk,
butter, and cane syrup over medium
heat until mixture registers 120° to
130° on an instant-read thermometer.
3. With mixer on low speed, slowly
add warm milk mixture to flour
mixture, beating until incorporated,
about 30 seconds. Add eggs, beating
until combined. Switch to the dough
hook attachment. Beat at low speed
until dough is smooth and elastic,
about 12 minutes. (Dough will pull
away from sides of bowl but will stick
to bottom.)
4. Spray a large bowl with cooking
spray. Turn out dough onto a lightly
floured surface, and shape into a
smooth round. Place dough in bowl,
turning to grease top. Loosely cover
and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
(75°) until doubled in size, about
1½ hours.
5. Spray a 13x9-inch baking pan
with cooking spray. Line pan with
parchment paper, letting excess
extend over sides of pan.
6. Lightly punch down dough. Turn
out dough onto a lightly floured
surface, and roll into an 18x12-inch
rectangle.
7. In a small bowl, combine brown
sugar, cinnamon, and remaining ¼ cup
granulated sugar. Spread softened
butter onto dough, and sprinkle
with sugar mixture, leaving a ½-inch
border on one long side. Top with
pecans. Starting with opposite long
side, roll dough into a log; pinch seam
to seal. Place seam side down; trim
ends. Using a serrated knife, cut log
into 12 rolls. Place rolls in prepared
pan, tucking ends under. Let rise in
a warm, draft-free place (75°) until
puffed and rolls are touching,
45 minutes to 1 hour.
8. Preheat oven to 350°.
9. Bake until a wooden pick inserted
in center comes out clean, 25 to
30 minutes. Let cool in pan for
10 minutes. Spread Cane Cream
Cheese Icing onto rolls. Drizzle with
cane syrup, if desired. Serve warm
or at room temperature.
CANE CREAM CHEESE ICING
MAKES 1 CUP
1 (8-ounce) package cream
cheese, softened
1 tablespoon cane syrup
¼ cup confectioners’ sugar
1. In a small bowl, whisk together
cream cheese and cane syrup until
smooth. Whisk in confectioners’ sugar
until smooth. Use immediately.

75 louisianacookin.com
Q U I C K & E ASY

WINNING BITES
photography by jim bathie | food styling by anita simpson spain | styling by lucy finney

FOR MANY IN LOUISIANA, fall weekends revolve around football and tailgating parties complete with an array of
delicious finger foods. These Boudin Egg Rolls are super simple to prepare and are great to have on hand for game days.

BOUDIN EGG ROLLS 1 large egg toward you. Place 2 tablespoons

MAKES 15
With spicy boudin and a pepper jelly
dipping sauce, these egg rolls will be
your new favorite appetizer.
¼ cup red pepper jelly
1 teaspoon Creole mustard
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
Vegetable oil, for frying
1 (12-ounce) package boudin
sausage, casings removed,
crumbled
2 cups shredded green cabbage
¼ cup chopped green onion
2 tablespoons Creole mustard
1 teaspoon Creole seasoning
1 tablespoon water
15 egg roll wrappers
1. In a small bowl, combine pepper
jelly, mustard, and vinegar. Refrigerate
until ready to use.
2. Fill a large Dutch oven halfway
with oil, and heat over medium
heat until a deep-fry thermometer
registers 350°.
3. In a large bowl, stir together
boudin, cabbage, green onion,
mustard, and Creole seasoning. In a
small bowl, whisk together egg and
1 tablespoon water.
4. On a work surface, place 1 egg
roll wrapper with corner pointed
boudin mixture in center, and shape
into a log. Brush a thin layer of
egg wash along edges of wrapper.
Fold bottom corner over filling;
roll snuggly halfway to cover filling.
Fold both sides snuggly against
filling. Roll wrapper up, and seal
top corner. Place egg roll flap side
down until ready to cook. Repeat
with remaining egg roll wrappers and
remaining boudin mixture.
5. Working in batches, fry egg rolls,
turning occasionally, until golden
brown, about 3 minutes. Carefully
remove from oil, and let drain on
paper towels. Serve with pepper
jelly sauce.

77 louisianacookin.com
 OrDeR
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BaRbEcUe & GrIlLiNg

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has everything you need for the
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like pork chops and okra, this is
the ultimate guide to Southern-
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LO CAL PAN T RY
GRAPE VINES
& GOOD TIMES
by samantha moats
THERE IS SOMETHING ABOUT WINE that
has a way of bringing people together. Jeff Landry of
Landry Vineyards calls it a fellowship drink. Fitting for
all seasons, the revered libation is often the mark of a
joyous celebration at hand.
Twenty years ago, Jeff and his wife, Libby, planted
their first grapes on 2 acres in Folsom, and within
three years, their vineyard produced 10 tons of grapes.
Initially, the harvest was intended for use by another
winemaker, but at the last minute, that winery said it
wouldn’t be buying the Landrys’ grapes.
“What were we supposed to do with 10 tons of
grapes?” recalls Jeff.
As luck would have it, a friend in the industry,
Henry Amato of Amato’s Winery, helped by allowing
the Landrys to produce and bottle wine at his facility.
The wine was licensed in 2002, and the Landrys sold
every bottle from that year and haven’t stopped since.
“We just kept growing one bit at a time,” says Jeff.
Although the idea of running a vineyard may
seem romantic, Jeff insists it isn’t all wine-sipping and
merrymaking—though that certainly is an aspect of
it. Another aspect, he says, is cruder than the idealized
dream of owning a vineyard.
“That might surprise people that we do a lot of rough
work,” Jeff shares, adding, “but as many have said, nothing
worthwhile comes easy.”
79 louisianacookin.com
If tending to a vineyard was not already difficult
enough, Hurricane Katrina struck the Gulf Coast
three years after the Landrys bottled their first wine.
After evacuating to West Monroe, Jeff and Libby
discovered their family felt at home there and decided
to permanently relocate, vineyard and all.
“We’d been coming up here for years, and people had
really embraced us,” says Jeff. “The land here was perfect
in every way, and the weather conditions were much
better for what we were doing.”
Relocating to the hill country of West Monroe
allowed them to expand Landry Vineyards from
2 acres to 20 acres, which also includes a winery, a
tasting room, and plenty of space for special events.
This increase in acreage also allowed Landry
Vineyards to expand its portfolio. The winery currently
produces 30,000 gallons of wine a year, including a
variety of vintages such as blanc du bois, muscadine,
rosé, merlot, port, and a number of other after-dinner
wines, like their unique Madeira-style wine called
Louisiana Heat.
“We learned very early to make something for
everyone,” says Jeff. “The most rewarding part is making
people happy and seeing them enjoy what we make.”
Whether the occasion is sweet, bitter, or somewhere
in between, a bottle of wine on the table is cause for a
celebration of togetherness.
“YOU ONLY GET SO MANY VINTAGES IN YOUR

LIFETIME. SO, THE GOAL EVERY YEAR IS TO

MAKE BETTER AND BETTER WINE. THERE ARE

ALWAYS NEW DISCOVERIES AND TOOLS TO

MAKE THAT POSSIBLE.” —JEFF LANDRY

 LOUISIANA HEAT PAIRING GUIDE
Louisiana Heat has a nutty pecan aroma. It pairs
well with desserts, especially:
» Bread pudding with pecan rum sauce
» Cheesecake with caramel and pecan topping
» Pecan pie
» Butter pecan cake with cream cheese frosting
» Peanut butter fudge

WHERE TO FIND IT

IN STORES
Landry Vineyards wines are widely available
in stores throughout Louisiana, including:
Rouses Supermarkets Walmart
Albertsons Cost Plus World Market

ONLINE
landryvineyards.com/shop

81 louisianacookin.com
JUNIPER-BRINED PORK 2 tablespoons unsalted butter,
CHOPS WITH ORANGE- divided
LOUISIANA HEAT SAUCE ¼ cup thinly sliced shallot
MAKES 4 SERVINGS ¾ cup Landry Vineyards Louisiana
Heat
Combined with orange marmalade, ¼ cup orange marmalade
the nutty aroma of Landry Vineyards Garnish: chopped fresh sage
Louisiana Heat really shines through in
this sauce. 1. In a large Dutch oven, bring 4 cups
water, salt, brown sugar, sage, juniper
4 cups water berries, and peppercorns to a simmer
2 tablespoons kosher salt over medium heat, stirring until sugar
2 tablespoons firmly packed dark is dissolved. Remove from heat, and
brown sugar let cool to room temperature.
5 sprigs fresh sage 2. Transfer cooled brine to a large
1½ tablespoons juniper berries, plastic container. Add pork chops;
crushed cover and refrigerate for at least
1½ tablespoons black peppercorns, 2 hours or overnight.
crushed 3. Remove pork chops from
4 bone-in pork chops (about 1 inch container, discarding brine. Rinse
thick) pork under cold water, and pat dry.
Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019
4. In a large saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon
butter over medium-high heat. Add
pork chops; cook, turning once,
until browned and an instant-read
thermometer inserted in thickest
portion registers 145°, about
8 minutes per side. Remove from
pan. Cover with foil; keep warm.
5. Add shallot to pan; cook until
tender, about 1 minute. Add Louisiana
Heat; cook, scraping browned bits
from bottom of pan with a wooden
spoon, until reduced by one-third,
about 3 minutes. Stir in marmalade
and remaining 1 tablespoon butter
until heated through, about 1 minute.
Serve sauce with pork chops. Garnish
with sage, if desired.

82
BY T H E BO O K

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GRILLE
1 (1½- to 2-pound) flank steak
¼ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons Classic Cajun
Seasoning (recipe follows)
ONE In a 1-gallon resealable plastic
bag, combine steak, olive oil, and
Classic Cajun Seasoning. Toss to coat.
Refrigerate for 8 to 24 hours.
TWO Preheat grill to high heat
(400° to 450°).
THREE Grill steak for 3 to 4 minutes
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YIELDS ABOUT 2⁄3 CUP
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2 tablespoons onion powder
4 teaspoons Hungarian paprika
2 teaspoons ground oregano
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1 teaspoon ground cumin
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ONE In a small bowl, combine all
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container, and store for up to
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BY T H E BO O K

THE LITTLE LOCAL NEW ORLEANS

COOKBOOK
HAVE YOU EVER WONDERED if there are too many New Orleans
cookbooks? Stephanie Jane Carter, author and award-winning writer and
editor, wondered the same when she was approached for her latest project,
The Little Local New Orleans Cookbook. But as it happens, she decided there
is always room for one more cookbook about New Orleans and a turn for
someone else at the pot.
“Our cuisine is evolving and changing in so many ways, and I think it’s
important to document that,” Stephanie says. “It’s tough because there are so
many classic New Orleans recipes.”
The challenge for Stephanie while writing the cookbook was to
document those changes with fewer than 100 pages bound in a 7x5-inch
hardcover. Despite its size, The Little Local New Orleans Cookbook
effectively covers the depth of New Orleans foodways by showcasing select
dishes and drinks that help make the cuisine one of the most famous in the
country.
The Little Local New Orleans Cookbook is a collection of 31 essential
recipes organized into five chapters, accented by bright and colorful
illustrations of the Crescent City. From timeless cocktails such as Absinthe
“WHILE I WAS WRITING Frappé to staples such as Yakamein, Stephanie expertly provides a bit of the
history and lore surrounding each recipe.
THE BOOK, I WAS THINKING
“I like recipes that have a great story to them because I think that’s one
A LOT ABOUT ‘LOCAL.’ of the reasons recipes survive as they get passed down,” Stephanie says,
IN SO MANY OTHER noting that this reasoning led her to include calas instead of beignets.
Unlike flour-based beignets, calas are made with rice and then fried
PLACES, LOCAL FOOD IS A
and topped with confectioners’ sugar. Calas are similar to beignets in feel,
MOVEMENT, BUT HERE, IT’S Stephanie says, but these treats have a richer history, which she details in
ALWAYS BEEN OUR WAY.” the cookbook.
Reading The Little Local New Orleans Cookbook will inspire you to
immediately begin working your way through its contents and gathering
—STEPHANIE JANE CARTER
a crowd.
“Food is a beautiful opportunity to connect with other people and their
history, and that history can come alive in our own kitchens and around our
own dinner tables,” Stephanie says.

85 louisianacookin.com
OYSTER STEW
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
Adapted from The Little Local
New Orleans Cookbook
(Countryman Press, 2019)
This dish is an elegant and satisfying
way to enjoy Louisiana oysters.
¾ cup unsalted butter
5 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon kosher salt
4 stalks celery, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
½ cup dry vermouth
¼ teaspoon ground white pepper
2 cups whole milk
2 cups heavy whipping cream
50 to 60 Gulf oysters, shucked
and liquid reserved, or ½ gallon
preshucked oysters, liquid
reserved
Garnish: chopped fresh parsley
1. In a 4-quart stockpot, melt butter
over medium heat. Add flour; cook,
whisking constantly, until roux is
golden, about 4 minutes. Add onion
and salt; cook until tender, about
5 minutes. Add celery; cook until
tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic;
cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Add vermouth and white pepper;
cook until liquid has evaporated,
about 1 minute.
2. Stir in milk, cream, and reserved
oyster liquid; bring to a simmer. Add
oysters; cook until edges curl, about
10 minutes. Ladle stew into bowls,
and garnish with parsley, if desired.
Serve immediately.

CO O K I N G W I T H
C H E FS TO WATC H

PIEROGI TRADITION
by caitlin watzke | photography by john o’hagan

EARLIER THIS YEAR, 2008 Chef to Watch Sue Zemanick opened

Zasu, an upscale restaurant in Mid-City New Orleans, where the menu
is driven by fresh seafood and vegetables. That plays out in dishes like
Sue’s Wild Mushroom and Potato Pierogies, a dish she first created at
Gautreau’s that pays homage to her Slovak heritage. Pierogies are stuffed
dumplings that are traditional in Poland and other central and eastern
European nations. They are often stuffed with mashed potatoes and
cheese or sauerkraut and then boiled and cooked in butter. Pierogies
make wonderful comfort food, and as we move into fall, Sue came up
with these Sweet Potato Pierogies as a Southern, seasonal play on the
traditional version. We recently sat down with her at Zasu to learn more
about the art of making the perfect pierogi.

Q Pierogies aren’t very common in south Louisiana. How did you

introduce them to diners in New Orleans?
I originally did the pierogi dish that I have on the menu here [at
Zasu] with wild mushrooms and mashed potatoes as the filling. And
I brought that in years ago when I was at Gautreau’s as a vegetarian
option. I was struggling to find something that was vegetarian that
would also be filling, and that was the dish that I came up with.
Zasu
127 N. Carrollton Ave. • New Orleans
504.267.3233 • zasunola.com
Q Your grandmother taught you to make pierogies, correct?
Yes. I made them growing up with the family—my grandmother, my
father—and all the church ladies.

Q Where was your grandmother from?

My grandmother was from [the former] Czechoslovakia, and she
came over when she was 14. I don’t know how she traveled across the
Atlantic by herself when she was 14 and remembered all these recipes
and knew how to make all this stuff, because it was many, many years
later that she was teaching me how to do these things.

Q What lessons did you learn from her about making pierogies, and
how have you made the recipe your own over the years?
Well, I learned that she wasn’t really doing it right. We were always
struggling to get the dough to be tender so that you can cut it with a

87 louisianacookin.com
 fork, and we tried many different methods. We used
no dairy in it. We tried to do sour cream. And then I
realized years later that the trick was melted butter.
Q How do you experiment with pierogi fillings?
Growing up, we always did potato and cheese. Or the
other option that we did was cooked-down sauerkraut.
We would cook it down for a long time in butter and
then all the sourness comes out. We also did dessert
pierogies. We did one with something called lekvar,
which is prune butter. It’s dehydrated prunes that you
reconstitute with water and then purée. So, you could
boil them, bake them, fry them. You can do all different
things with them. So, I’ve just been trying to experiment
with them to see what other fillings I can put inside.
Q What are some fillings you’ve experimented with?
I’ve done farmer cheese, like a fresh cheese, which is
really delicious. I’ve also done ones with crawfish and
mashed potatoes. I’ve done them with apricot filling for
more of a dessert flavor.
Q What inspired this recipe for Sweet Potato Pierogies?
I wanted to come up with a pierogi that could be
vegetarian but could also be filling during the fall
months when we’re craving all of those heavier dishes,
and the sweet potatoes are in their prime peak.
Q What flavors pair well with sweet potatoes?
Well, I always think that anything with acid helps, so
that’s why I paired it with the greens, which have Abita
beer, cane vinegar, and apple cider vinegar. I think it
cuts through the sweetness. I also love sage with sweet
potatoes, or any hearty herb like rosemary or thyme.
I think that sweet ingredients such as candied pecans
and honey and brown sugar go with them as well.
Q What’s your process for coming up with new recipes?
It usually comes from the ingredients the farmer has,
and a lot of times, things that are growing at the same
time just naturally pair well together, like the greens
and the sweet potatoes. Or just certain fish that’s readily
available always seems to pair with the vegetables that
are available from the farmers.
Q Do you have any tips for making pierogies?
Yes, my number one tip is taking your time when you’re
sealing them and making sure that you go back and
re-pinch the edges. The last thing you want to do is
spend all that time making the filling and the dough only
to drop them in the water and find they weren’t sealed
properly. They just end up an empty piece of dough.
Q Is there any prep work you could do in advance?
You can do everything in advance. You can do the
dough two days before. You can do the filling two days
before. And once they’re made, boiled, cooled, and
covered in oil, you can actually freeze them individually
on a sheet pan in the freezer and put them in a
resealable plastic bag and pull them out as you need
them. You can also make them smaller and do little
passed hors d’oeuvres.
Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019 88
SWEET POTATO PIEROGIES
PIEROG ES
W TH BRAISED GREENS
WITH
MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS
Recipe courtesy of Chef Sue Zemanick,
Zasu, New Orleans
This recipe is a Southern, seasonal play
on traditional pierogies.
⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted
butter, divided
⅓ cup hot water
2¾ cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons plus 1½ teaspoons
kosher salt, divided
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons heavy whipping
cream
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 sweet potato, baked and peeled
½ Idaho potato, baked and peeled
¼ cup clarified butter
Braised Greens (recipe follows)
Spicy Crème Fraîche (recipe follows)
Garnish: pickled banana peppers
1. In a small saucepan, heat ⅓ cup
butter and ⅓ cup hot water over
medium-low heat until butter is
melted. Remove from heat; set aside.
2. In a large bowl, stir together flour
and 1 teaspoon salt. Make a well in
center of flour mixture. Place eggs
in center of well. Pour in butter
mixture. Using a fork, slowly pull flour
mixture into well until a soft dough
is formed. (Do not overwork dough.)
Shape dough into a disk. Wrap dough
in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at
least 1 hour.
3. In a medium saucepan, heat cream,
½ teaspoon salt, black pepper, and
remaining 2 tablespoons butter over
medium-low heat until butter is
89 louisianacookin.com
melted and cream is hot. Mash or rice
potatoes into cream mixture. Remove
from heat; let cool.
4. Bring a large stockpot of water and
remaining 2 tablespoons salt to a boil
over medium-high heat.
5. On a lightly floured surface, roll half
of pierogi dough to the thickness of a
nickel. Using a 3-inch round cutter,
cut dough. Place 1 teaspoon potato
filling on 1 round. Using your finger or
a pastry brush, moisten half of round
with water. Pinch ends together to
seal. Repeat with remaining pierogi
dough and remaining filling.
6. Working in batches, carefully drop
pierogies into boiling water; cook for
3 to 4 minutes. Remove from water,
and place on an oiled sheet pan. Let
cool.*
7. In a large nonstick saucepan, heat
clarified butter over medium heat.
Place a single layer of pierogies in
pan; cook until browned on both sides.
Repeat with remaining pierogies.
Serve with Braised Greens and Spicy
Crème Fraîche. Garnish with banana
peppers, if desired.
*At this point, the pierogies can
be frozen on a sheet pan and then
transferred to a heavy-duty resealable
plastic bag. Thaw and proceed with
recipe.
BRAISED GREENS
MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS
¼ cup small diced slab bacon
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ yellow onion, sliced
1 shallot, sliced
3 cloves garlic, sliced
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves,
chopped
1 bunch mustard greens, stemmed,
cut, and washed
1 bunch collard greens, stemmed,
cut, and washed
1 (12-ounce) can Abita amber beer
¼ cup cane vinegar
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons firmly packed dark
brown sugar
2 tablespoons Crystal Hot Sauce
1 tablespoon cane syrup
1 tablespoon honey
2 bay leaves
Kosher salt and ground black pepper,
to taste
1. In a medium heavy-bottomed
stockpot, cook bacon over medium
heat until crisp. Add butter, onion,
shallot, garlic, and thyme; cook until
vegetables are softened. Stir in greens
and all remaining ingredients. Reduce
heat to low. Cover and cook for at
least 1 hour, stirring occasionally. If
greens start to look dry, add some
water so they don’t burn. Remove bay
leaves. Serve warm.
SPICY CRÈME FRAÎCHE
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
½ cup crème fraîche*
2 tablespoons Crystal Hot Sauce
Pinch kosher salt
Pinch ground black pepper
1. In a small bowl, combine all
ingredients. Refrigerate until ready
to use.

*Sour cream can be used instead.
BY T H E BO O K
STEEN’S POPCORN BALLS
2 cups Steen’s Syrup
¼ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter
2 quarts popped corn
LIKE US ON FACEBOOK!
C. S. STEEN SYRUP MILL, INC.
119 North Main Street, Abbeville, LA 70510 | 337-893-1654 | STEENSYRUP.COM
1. Boil Steen’s Syrup and salt over
low Ɠre, stirring constantly.
2. When a few drops tested in cold
water are brittle, add butter.
3. Pour over popped corn, mix, and
shape into large balls.
From a historical landmark in
Abbeville, Louisiana, C. S. Steen
Syrup Mill, established in 1910,
comes 100% Pure Cane Syrup as
it did all those many years ago.
 www.laeggs.com
Louisiana Department of
Agriculture & Forestry
Mike Strain DVM Commissioner

Dude’s Baked Avocado Eggs

Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 15 minutes | Total Time: 25 minutes
Makes: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS to use in keeping the avocados upright for prepping and baking.
2 medium-size, firm, ripe avocados 2. SLICE the avocados and remove the pits. PLACE
2 tbsp. olive oil avocados inside the foil rings on the baking sheet and
4 large EGGS BRUSH with olive oil. SCOOP out a hole where the pit
Salt and Pepper was. Hole should be large enough to hold one broken egg.
1⁄2 tsp. ground pepper 3. BREAK an egg into the center of each of the avocados,
1⁄4 cup chopped fresh parsley being careful to keep the yolks intact. SPRINKLE with salt
and pepper.
DIRECTIONS 4. BAKE until egg whites are completely set and yolks begin
1. PREHEAT oven to 375°F. LINE a baking sheet with to thicken but are not hard, about 15 minutes.
aluminum foil. FORM 4 circular rings out of aluminum foil 5. TOP with parsley and ground pepper and serve.

INSIDER INFORMATION
Picture perfect baked avocado eggs: Separate egg whites from yolk. Using a spoon, first add the yolk to the avocado hole,
then add the egg whites to just cover the yolk. Slice off a small piece of the bottom of avocado to make it stand up straight.
Large size muffin tins can be used in place of a baking sheet and foil to keep them straight up and easier to fill.

NUTRITION INFORMATION: Per Serving: ¼ of recipe; Calories: 260; Total fat: 23g; Saturated fat: 3.5g; Polyunsaturated fat: 2g; Monounsaturated fat: 7g;
Cholesterol: 186mg; Sodium: 140mg; Carbohydrates: 8g; Dietary fiber: 3g; Protein: 9g; Sugar: 0g; Vitamin A: 81mcg; Vitamin D: 1mcg; Folate: 24mcg;
Calcium: 30mg; Iron: 1.9mg; Choline: 147mg; Potassium: 425mg

This recipe is a good source of protein, iron and dietary fiber.

S W I Z Z L E ST I C K

FAMIILY TREE
by crystal pavlas

AS SUMMER TRANSITIONS INTO FALL, I get

inspired by the flavors of the approaching season. Pears are
one of my favorite ingredients this time of year, and since my
pawpaw had a pear tree in his yard when I was growing up,
I made this cocktail with him in mind.
The brandy I use in this cocktail, which I named A Perfect
Pearing, is made using Williams pears grown in the Alto
Adige region of northern Italy. Williams pears, also known as
Bartlett pears, are known for their classic flavor, juiciness, and
smooth texture.
Additionally, I use Becherovka in this cocktail as another
tribute to my pawpaw and also to our family’s heritage. The
Pavlas family is from the Czech Republic, where the herbal
liqueur is distilled. My pawpaw drank Becherovka, which he
called his “stomach medicine” (it is often used as a digestive
aid), until he was 95 years old. It lends a nice cinnamon and
herbal component to this cocktail.
A Perfect Pearing is very bright and fruit-forward. It
has a tart finish, with lovely notes of ginger and lemongrass
in the Oleo Saccharum syrup from Cocktail & Sons, a line
of all-natural, handcrafted cocktail syrups created by my
friend Max Messier. The oleo saccharum syrup is made by
muddling lemon and orange peels with Louisiana sugar and
then blending that mixture with the flavors of lemongrass,
cardamom, and ginger.

Resident Bartender Crystal Pavlas is the head bartender at Chef Nina Compton’s Bywater American Bistro in New Orleans.
A Louisiana native and veteran mixologist, Crystal previously worked at Compère Lapin.

93 louisianacookin.com
A PERFECT PEARING
MAKES 1

Notes of lemongrass and ginger from

oleo saccharum syrup make a lovely
pairing with pear brandy in this cocktail.

1½ ounces Pear Williams

Eau-de-Vie brandy
¾ ounce fresh lemon juice
½ ounce Becherovka
½ ounce Cocktail & Sons Oleo
Saccharum Syrup
Garnish: fresh thyme sprig

1. In a cocktail shaker, combine

brandy, lemon juice, Becherovka,
and oleo saccharum syrup. Add ice.
Cover and shake until cold. Strain
into a cocktail glass. Garnish with
thyme, if desired.

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2019 94

 INDEX &
R ESO U RC ES
Recipe Index
Appetizers
Boudin Egg Rolls, 77
Shrimp Toast, 26
Beverages
A Perfect Pearing, 94
Satsuma Mule, 54
Breads
Smoked Paprika and Buttermilk
Cornbread, 66
Breakfast
Cane Cream Cheese Icing, 75
Cane Syrup Pecan Cinnamon Rolls, 75
Desserts
Mini Satsuma Vanilla Bundt Cakes, 58
Satsuma Glaze, 58
Skillet Pecan and Chocolate Blondies, 66
Meat, Game, and Poultry
Juniper-Brined Pork Chops with
Orange-Louisiana Heat Sauce, 82
Roasted Goose with Baked Apples, 28
Satsuma-Lacquered Quail, 57
Sauces, Seasonings, and Condiments
Green Chile-Garlic Butter, 62
Spicy Crème Fraîche, 89
Seafood
Curried Sweet Potato and Shrimp Soup, 21
Garlic Shrimp and Grits, 23
Oyster Stew, 86
Roasted Oysters with Green
BellaCopper Chile-Garlic Butter, 62
Satsuma-Glazed Shrimp and Braised
Pork Belly, 55
Solid Copper Heat Satsuma and Shrimp Salad, 58
Seared Tuna with Spicy Noodles, 58
Diffusers & Shrimp and Andouille Jambalaya, 66
Shrimp and Andouille Pastalaya, 25
Defroster Plates Vegetables and Side Dishes
Braised Greens, 89
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Pickled Okra and Red Onion Salad with
Creole Mustard Dressing, 66
Sweet Potato Pierogies with Braised
Greens, 89
Tasso-Braised Greens, 64
White Cheddar Corn Grits, 23
RESOURCES
Spillin’ the Beans: Photos courtesy of
Costera (page 11); Sara Essex Bradley
(Thalia, page 11); Jo Webb (MID Tap,
page 11); W. W. Norton & Company
(Gumbo Life: Tales from the Roux Bayou
by Ken Wells, page 15); Bumsteers
(page 15); Sam Hanna (Claret Wine and
Cocktail Bar, page 15); Brandt Vicknair
(Copper Vine, page 17); Louisiana
Sugar Cane Festival (page 19); and
Shreveport-Bossier Convention &
Visitors Bureau (Red River Revel Arts
Festival, page 19).
Louisiana Foodways: Pages 29–30:
Photos courtesy of Boone Clemmons,
Seersucker Studios.
Dining to the Nines: Photos courtesy
of Chris Granger (Bayona and Ralph’s
on the Park, page 69); Shreveport-
Bossier Convention & Visitors Bureau
(Bella Fresca, page 69); Commander’s
Palace (page 70); Sara Essex Bradley
(Tableau, page 71); Golden Nugget Lake
Charles (page 71); Cristiano Ristorante
(page 71); Eugenia Uhl (Clancy’s, page
72); and Mansurs on the Boulevard
(page 73).
By the Book: Page 85: Photo from The
Little Local New Orleans Cookbook by
Stephanie Jane Carter (Countryman
Press, 2019).
SEARED TUNA WITH
SPICY NOODLES,
P. 58
 ORDER
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L AG N IAP P E

THOUGH THEY ARE AVAILABLE year-

round, in terms of flavor and texture, Louisiana
oysters are at their peak during fall and winter.
One of our favorite things about oysters is
their versatility. They are just as delicious raw
as they are chargrilled with butter, garlic, and
herbs. For some of our best oyster recipes, visit
louisianacookin.com.