contents

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2021 | VOLUME 24, ISSUE 5

first, you make a

roux.
83
Spillin’ the Beans 23 In Season 3 Foodways
Magnificent Mirlitons Generations of Tradition
by Daniel Schumacher
2 Light & Fresh
Autumn Panzanella 29 Afield & Afloat 35 Chef’s Table
Founding Foodies Viet-Cajun Flavor
by Chef John D. Folse by Daniel Schumacher

3 louisianacookin.com
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new orleans old fashioned cocktail mixer
handcrafted in new Orleans, louisiana | non-alcoholic | makes 16 cocktails
 entrées
the main course
47 Chefs to Watch
Six chefs who are changing the way we
eat, one dish at a time

55 Roux How-To
Two methods and tips for making the
perfect roux

57 Hearty Soups and Stews

Five recipes for comforting bowls of
bold flavor

657 Backyard Dinner Party

Fall’s best flavors shine on this menu
that’s best enjoyed outside

737 The Louisiana Hot List

The Top 15 Cajun and Creole Products

23
Everyone Should Have in Their Kitchen

77 20 Years of Chefs to Watch

We celebrate this milestone and catch up
with Chefs to Watch alumni

lagniappe
93 a little something extra

83 Sweets
Pumpkin Spice Time

85 Quick & Easy

Fall Comfort

87 Local Pantry
Rice and Easy

9 By the Book
Creole Feast

93 Swizzle Stick
The Slow Prophet
by Laura Bellucci

95 Index & Resources

97 Lagniappe
 September/October 2021 Volume 24, Issue 5

EDITORIAL

EDITOR Caitlin Watzke GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR

SENIOR COPY EDITOR Rhonda Lee Lother Deanna Rippy Gardner
COPY EDITORS Adrienne Davis, Meg Lundberg ART DIRECTOR Nancy Miller Heard
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS SENIOR ST YLIST Sidney Bragiel
Laura Bellucci, John D. Folse, ST YLISTS
Daniel Schumacher Courtni Bodiford, Lucy Finney, Mary Beth Jones,
CREATIVE DIRECTOR/PHOTOGRAPHY Lily Simpson, Melissa Sturdivant Smith,
Mac Jamieson Dorothy Walton
SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Laura Crandall
John O’Hagan FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS
PHOTOGRAPHERS Becca Cummins, Kathleen Kanen,
Jim Bathie, Steve Rizzo, Megan Lankford, Leah Rasbury,
Stephanie Welbourne Steele Vanessa Rocchio, Izzie Turner
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER TEST KITCHEN ASSISTANTS/PREP COOKS
Randy Krause Schmidt Audrey Harris, Leah Nicole Perez
CHEFS TO WATCH ADVISORY BOARD
SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Meg Bickford, Lyle Broussard, Jeffrey Hansell,
Delisa McDaniel Colt Patin, Nathan Richard
DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Clark Densmore

FOUNDERS Romney K. and Charley Richard

D I G I TA L M E D I A A D M I N I S T R AT I V E
MARKETING DIRECTOR Kristy Harrison HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR
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EXPERTLY
TESTED RECIPES
FEATURING PREMIUM
INGREDIENTS
All recipes in each issue pass
through the hands of the
Louisiana Cookin’ test kitchen.
Each is flavorful and distinctive
and developed with your
unique tastes in mind.
The below products are
partners of Louisiana Cookin’
magazine and used exclusively
in all of our recipes.
E D I TO R’S
LETTER
EVERY YEAR SINCE 2002,
Louisiana Cookin’ has selected a
handful of talented chefs from around
the state as Chefs to Watch. Year after
year, we look for up-and-coming chefs
who respect local culinary traditions
while adding their personal touch and
pushing the boundaries of Louisiana
cuisine. In my time working with this
magazine, I have been fortunate to have
met some truly amazing chefs from all
corners of the state who are making
their mark on Louisiana’s cuisine.
This year, we are proud to continue
this tradition as we introduce our 20th
class of Chefs to Watch. The 2021 Chefs to Watch represent a wide swath of
cuisines and cooking styles—chefs like Anthony Goldsmith, who is trying
to preserve Cajun cuisine for the next generation; Serigne Mbaye, who is
highlighting the connection between the cuisines of Senegal and New Orleans;
Melissa Araujo, who is showcasing a modern take on Honduran classics
made with local ingredients; Thien Nguyen, who is putting a modern spin on
Vietnamese flavors; Sullivan Zant, who is dedicating himself to sourcing the
best regional ingredients; and Kaitlin Guerin, who is using baking as a creative
outlet and turning out beautiful pastries. Read more about these talented chefs
starting on page 41.
Elsewhere in this issue, you’ll find recipes to help you transition your
cooking into fall. The first hint of cooler weather is the perfect excuse to indulge
in comfort foods like Amber Beef Stew (page 63), Creamy Mirliton Gratin
(page 27), or Chef Jeremy Conner’s Chicken and Sausage Gumbo (page 81).
And what would fall be without a little pumpkin spice action? If you’re all about
pumpkin-flavored things this time of year, make sure to try the beignets on page
83. They’re filled with Pumpkin Cream Filling and dusted with confectioners’
sugar and pumpkin pie spice for a decadent fall treat. I hope this collection of
comforting recipes makes your fall a delicious one.
ON THE COVER
Shrimp and Grits in White Wine Sauce
(page 85)
photography by jim bathie
recipe development by izzie turner
food styling by kathleen kanen
styling by lily simpson
 SPILLIN’
T H E B E AN S PRESENTED BY CAMELLIA BRAND

NEW & IRRESISTIBLE

COMMONS CLUB NEW ORLEANS

Set to open Labor Day weekend, Virgin Hotels New Orleans is the latest addition to the
Warehouse District. The brand-new hotel from Sir Richard Branson’s hotel brand will feature
238 guest rooms, a rooftop pool and lounge, and food and beverage outlets, including its
flagship restaurant, bar, and lounge called Commons Club. The kitchen at Commons Club
will be led by former Chef to Watch Alex Harrell, whose menu will focus on “contemporary
American cuisine with a Southern sensibility.” commonsclub.com/new-orleans

MAMA RETA’S LAKE CHARLES

When Hurricane Laura tore through Lake
Charles last August and destroyed “Mama
Reta” Nell Durgan’s home and restaurant,
she temporarily moved her business to
Lafayette to “keep doing what she loves to
do.” When her lease is up on that location
in September, Reta will move the restaurant
back to Lake Charles for good, with a new
location near the I-10 corridor on Belden
Street in Reta’s family home, complete with
a drive-through window.
facebook.com/mamaretaskitchen

11 louisianacookin.com
LOUISIANA ATTRACTION OF THE YEAR
th
Anniversary

DISCOVER NEW ORLEANS

HISTORY & HAUNTS
504.943.8820 | WWW.NEWORLEANSCARRIAGES.COM
 JUICY TIDBITS
Hotel Saint Vincent New Orleans
In other hotel-related news, Hotel Saint
Vincent recently opened in the Lower
Garden District. The 75-room hotel
is home to two dining concepts: its
signature restaurant, San Lorenzo &
Paradise Lounge, which serves coastal
Italian fare, and a second location of
Austin, Texas-based restaurant Elizabeth
Street Café, which serves French-
Vietnamese pastries for breakfast and
Vietnamese staples for lunch and dinner.
saintvincentnola.com

Las Cruces Tex-Mex Metairie

The team that founded Central City
BBQ in New Orleans is set to open
a new Tex-Mex restaurant in 2022
at the corner of Airline Drive and
Labarre Road in Metairie. Las Cruces
Tex-Mex will be a family-friendly spot
that serves tacos, burritos, fajitas, and
enchiladas, as well as some barbecue
staples like brisket.
MILLENNIAL PARK BATON ROUGE
Millennial Park recently celebrated its first anniversary on Florida
Boulevard, and now, plans are in the works for a second location across
from Electric Depot on Government Street. Cameron Jackson opened the
first location of the container park last June. While the current location is a
place for small businesses to gain footing, Cameron says the new location
will have outposts of more established restaurants. millennialparkbr.com

ADVERTISING

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from Camellia Brand LENTILS?
Trying to be more mindful of
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beans, peas, and lentils offer a
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your daily goal.
Get more information and protein-
filled recipes at camelliabrand.com.

13 louisianacookin.com

PRODUCT PICK
BIG EASY TEPACHE
After falling in love with tepache in
Mexico, Big Easy Bucha founders
Alexis Korman and Austin Sherman
introduced their own tepache line in
November 2019. Tepache is a drink
made from fermented pineapple
and is thought to have originated
in pre-colonial Mexico. With their
tepache, Alexis and Austin wanted
to make a drink that honors ancient
fermentation techniques while
giving it a modern twist. They offer
three flavors: pineapple, mango,
and prickly pear. The sweet, tropical
flavor and bubbly texture of Big Easy
Tepache makes it an ideal mixer
for tiki cocktails and mocktails. Big
Easy Tepache can be found in more
than 3,000 retail locations, including
Rouses, Wegman’s,
Weg Publix, and
Sprouts. drinkbigeasy.com
15 louisianacookin.com
nacookin.com
YAKUZA HOUSE
METAIRIE
After two decades of working in New
Orleans-area Japanese restaurants,
Crescent City native Huy Pham
opened Yakuza House in April in
Metairie. Huy, who previously worked
for Rock-n-Sake and most recently
Shogun, always knew he wanted to
open a restaurant where he could
present a different take on Japanese
cuisine. At Yakuza House, he is
serving up nigiri (thinly sliced fish
draped over rice), sandos (sandwiches
that were popularized in Japanese
convenience stores), and rice bowls.
Diners can opt to have their nigiri
dressed to the chef ’s liking with
various toppings. Reservations are
encouraged. yakuzahouse.com
TH SEVENTH TAP BREWING PROJECT SHREVEPORT
THE
Shreveport’s newest brewery opened its taproom in early June. The
Sh
Se
Seventh Tap Brewing Project is the brainchild of Jose Cardenas, Colby
M
Miller, and Samuel Norton, who are sharing their passion for unique
cr
craft beers. Their interest in home brewing led the trio to start entering
co
competitions and festivals, and they eventually decided to open a brewery
wh
where they could continue to produce high-quality beers, including
th
their signature brew, Don Pablo (a Mexican-style lager), and a rotating
se
selection of other brews. The Seventh Tap features an indoor taproom
as well as an outdoor beer garden that hosts food trucks and live music.
th
theseventhtap.com
16
 CHEF CHAT
After 30 years in the hospitality business, mostly in the Bay Area of
California, Chef Sophina Uong is opening her own restaurant, Mister Mao,
in the former Dick & Jenny’s space in Uptown New Orleans. The Chopped
winner and her husband and business partner, William Greenwell, have
transformed the space into a “tropical roadhouse restaurant” with a cozy
bar and lounge area, a vibrant dining room, and a chef ’s counter. As the
restaurant was preparing to open this summer, we sat down with Sophina
to get the scoop on the eclectic cuisine she’ll be serving there. Read on for
excerpts from our chat with Sophina.

What made you decide to open Mister Mao?
It just kind of happened. Everything with the pandemic . . .
we wanted to do some pop-ups. And I’m super type A, so I
just always need a project. It was also important to be part
of the community and to meet people . . . And I just felt like
I had an opportunity to do something on my own, finally.
What’s the story behind the name “Mister Mao”?
Mister Mao is our cat. He’s 11. He’s a little crazy . . . And
my Cambodian nickname is “Mao,” so [William] calls us
Big Mao, Little Mao. It just kind of stuck. Then, I realized
after we named our pop-up, it sounds like a Chinese
restaurant, but we’re not.
Tell us about the cuisine you’ll be serving.
We call it “spirited cooking.” It’s incredibly inauthentic
. . . meaning that we cook globally. We want to source
locally, and it’s kind of a mash-up of a bunch of different
flavors, whether it’s Indian, Mexican, or Southeast Asian.
We just want to have something for everybody—some
things for the Uptown folks and some things for our
peer group—[that’s] affordable enough for the hospitality
community.
You’ll have a fixed menu as well as rotating small
plates with cart service. How will that work?
The way that the kitchen operates is that the chefs and
cooks meet weekly. We have a small stagnant menu
that will probably change monthly, and when we meet
weekly, it’s really to give our cooks the opportunity to
grow a little bit. I just really want a diverse kitchen that
has an opportunity to learn how to make small plates or
what makes them happy. It also gives us an opportunity
to purchase things from our fishermen and farmers that
are in excess, or that they can’t move. It allows us to be a
little bit more creative. We do have carts being built for us
. . . it’s almost dim sum service, but it’s not dim sum. So,
it could be ceviche; it could be little tartlets or oysters or
something.

17 louisianacookin.com
kin’ 18
 UPCOMING EVENTS
RED RIVER REVEL ARTS FESTIVAL OCTOBER 2–10
This eight-day festival brings food, culture, art, and music to Shreveport’s
Festival Plaza each October. Red River Revel began in 1976 and today
attracts festivalgoers from all over for a week of family-friendly fun. With
traditional Louisiana
cuisine, handcrafted art,
visual and performing
arts experiences, and
live music on two stages,
Red River Revel has
something for everyone
to enjoy.
redriverrevel.com
NEW ORLEANS JAZZ
& HERITAGE FESTIVAL
OCTOBER 8–17
Usually held the last full weekend
in April and first weekend in May,
the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage
Festival will return in October
for two weekends of live music,
amazing food, and arts markets.
This year’s headliners include big-
name acts like Dead & Company,
Stevie Nicks, Foo Fighters, and
Lizzo. Visit the website to view the
FESTIVALS ACADIENS ET
full lineup and to purchase tickets.
CRÉOLES OCTOBER 8–10
nojazzfest.com
Festivals Acadiens et Créoles
celebrates the culture of Acadiana
with three days of music, food,
crafts, and more. The schedule
includes the Festival de Musique,
where visitors can listen to Cajun
and zydeco music; the Bayou Food
Festival, which offers Cajun and
Creole dishes like boudin and
jambalaya; and the Louisiana Craft
Fair, which features handmade
items from the Houma Indians
and other local craftspeople.
festivalsacadiens.com
19 louisianacookin.com
CALENDAR
SEPTEMBER
3–4 Southwest Louisiana Zydeco
Music Festival; Opelousas
zydeco.org
18 Baton Rouge Blues Festival;
Baton Rouge
batonrougebluesfestival.org
18 Highland Jazz & Blues Festival;
Shreveport highlandjazzandblues.org
18 Acadia Music Fest
Thibodaux acadiamusicfest.net
23–26 Louisiana Sugar Cane Festival;
New Iberia hisugar.org
24 Brews Arts Festival; Hammond
hammondarts.org/brews-arts-festival
24–26 Scott Boudin Festival; Scott
scottboudinfestival.com
25 Beignet Fest; New Orleans
beignetfest.com
25–26 Wooden Boat Festival;
Madisonville
lpbmm.org/wooden-boat-festival
OCTOBER
2–10 Red River Revel
Shreveport redriverrevel.com
8–10 Festivals Acadiens et Créoles
Lafayette festivalacadiens.com
8–10 Zwolle Tamale Fiesta; Zwolle
zwolletamalefiesta.com
8–17 New Orleans Jazz & Heritage
Festival; New Orleans nojazzfest.com
9 Bluesberry Festival; Covington
thebluesberryfest.com
9–10 World Championship Gumbo
Cook-Off; New Iberia
facebook.com/gumbocookoff
16 Boudin and Bacon Cook-Off and
Festival; Lafayette boudincookoff.com
23–24 National Fried Chicken Festival
New Orleans friedchickenfestival.com
L I G H T & F R ES H

AUTUMN
PANZANELLA
photography by jim bathie | recipe development by leah rasbury
food styling by kathleen kanen | styling by lucy finney

PANZANELLA is a Tuscan bread salad that’s popular in Italy, and it’s easy to see why. It’s typically
made with stale bread, tomatoes, and onions tossed with olive oil and red wine vinegar. The stale
bread soaks up all the flavorful juices and transforms into a simple yet delightful dish. For a fall
version of this salad, we skipped the tomatoes and added in roasted butternut squash with cumin,
ginger, and nutmeg. Sprinkled with fresh herbs and crunchy pistachios, it’s a filling yet light meal
that is sure to become a fast favorite.

ROASTED SQUASH PANZANELLA ¼ cup finely diced red onion

SALAD 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
MAKES 8 SERVINGS 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Garnish: fresh basil
Roasted butternut squash and cubed French bread
get tossed with a sweet yet zesty vinaigrette in this 1. Preheat oven to 400°.
panzanella salad. 2. On a large rimmed baking sheet, combine
bread and 2 tablespoons oil, tossing well to coat.
4 cups 1-inch-cubed French bread 3. Bake until bread is dry and toasted, about
⅓ cup plus 5 tablespoons olive oil, divided 10 minutes. Remove from pan. Let cool
1 medium butternut squash, peeled and cut into completely. Leave oven on.
1-inch cubes (about 7⅓ cups) 4. On same pan, combine squash, 3 tablespoons
2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided oil, 1 teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon pepper, cumin,
1 teaspoon ground black pepper, divided ginger, and nutmeg, tossing well to coat.
½ teaspoon ground cumin 5. Bake until squash is tender and browned,
¼ teaspoon ground ginger about 28 minutes. Let cool completely.
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg 6. In a large bowl, whisk together lemon juice,
¼ cup fresh lemon juice honey, mustard, remaining ⅓ cup oil, remaining
1 tablespoon honey 1 teaspoon salt, and remaining ½ teaspoon pepper.
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard Add squash, bread, raisins, pistachios, onion,
½ cup golden raisins basil, and parsley, tossing well to coat. Garnish
½ cup chopped roasted pistachios with basil, if desired. Serve immediately.

21 louisianacookin.com
Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 22
 I N S E ASO N

MAGNIFICENT
MIRLITONS
photography by jim bathie | recipe development by leah rasbury | food styling by kathleen kanen | styling by lucy finney

MIRLITON, CHAYOTE, CHRISTOPHENE, VEGETABLE

PEAR: whatever you call it, this squash is a fall staple in New CHOOSING
Orleans. Locally, the vegetable is known as mirliton, with most & STORING
New Orleanians dropping the “r” and pronouncing it “mel-uh- MIRLITONS
tawn.” Mirlitons have long been grown on backyard fences and
trellises across the city, typically ripening in October, just in time Choose: Mirlitons should feel
for fall cooking and the upcoming holiday season. With tender, firm and heavy for their size,
and they should be blemish-
watery flesh and a taste reminiscent of apple or cucumber, the free.
mirliton is a versatile ingredient that works well with other foods.
Around New Orleans, it’s most commonly used in recipes for Store: Mirlitons can be
refrigerated in a plastic bag
stuffed mirlitons or mirliton dressing, often made with seafood. for up to 1 month.
This fall, we’re sharing our own take on the stuffed mirliton as
well as recipes for a creamy gratin and a crunchy slaw.

23 louisianacookin.com
SHRIMP-STUFFED
MIRLITONS

P. 27

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 24

CREAMY MIRLITON
GRATIN

P. 27
MIRLITON SLAW
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
This slaw has a wonderful crunch from
fresh mirlitons, radishes, and carrots.
Lemon juice adds a touch of acidity and
brightness.
¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon fresh lemon
juice
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1½ teaspoons sugar
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper
2 large mirlitons, peeled, halved
lengthwise, seeded, and cut into
matchsticks (about 3 cups)
1 cup matchstick radish (about
6 medium radishes)
1 cup matchstick carrot (about
2 large carrots)
½ cup sliced green onion
2 tablespoons finely diced seeded
jalapeño (about 2 medium
jalapeños)
Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021
2 tablespoons chopped fresh
parsley
⅓ cup chopped toasted pecans
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together
lemon juice, oil, sugar, salt, and red
pepper. Add mirliton, radish, carrot,
green onion, jalapeño, and parsley,
tossing well to coat. Cover and
refrigerate until chilled, about 1 hour.
Stir in pecans just before serving.
Serve with a slotted spoon.
26
SHRIMP-STUFFED
MIRLITONS
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
(photo on page 24)
Families throughout New Orleans have
their own variation of stuffed mirlitons.
Our version has tender shrimp and fresh
seasonings for a dish you’re sure to love.
8 large mirlitons
1 teaspoon kosher salt
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon unsalted
butter, divided
1 cup finely diced sweet onion
¾ cup finely diced red bell pepper
½ cup finely diced celery
12 ounces medium fresh shrimp,
peeled, deveined, and chopped
4 tablespoons chopped fresh
parsley, divided
2 tablespoons chopped fresh
thyme, divided
1 tablespoon Creole seasoning
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup plain bread crumbs, divided
Garnish: fresh thyme
1. In a large Dutch oven, bring
mirlitons, salt, and enough water to
cover to a boil over medium-high
heat; cook until tender, about
35 minutes. Remove mirlitons,
and let cool enough to handle.
2. Place a wire rack on a rimmed
baking sheet.
3. Halve mirlitons lengthwise,
discarding seeds. Gently scoop
mirliton flesh, leaving a ½-inch border
around edges, and place flesh in a
medium bowl. Using a potato masher,
mash flesh until mostly smooth.
Strain mashed flesh through a fine-
mesh sieve. Place shells upside down
on prepared rack.
4. Preheat oven to 300°.
5. In a large skillet, melt ⅓ cup butter
over medium heat. Add onion, bell
pepper, and celery; cook, stirring
occasionally, until vegetables are
tender, about 3 minutes. Add shrimp,
3 tablespoons parsley, 1 tablespoon
thyme, Creole seasoning, and garlic.
Cook, stirring frequently, until shrimp
are pink and firm, about 7 minutes.
Gently fold in mirliton flesh and ¾ cup
bread crumbs. Remove from heat.
6. In a small microwave-safe bowl,
place remaining 1 tablespoon butter.
Heat on high until melted. Add
27 louisianacookin.com
remaining ¼ cup bread crumbs, leaving larger pieces. Strain through a
remaining 1 tablespoon parsley, small fine-mesh sieve.
and remaining 1 tablespoon thyme, 2. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray
stirring until well combined. 6 (1-cup) ramekins with cooking spray.
7. Place mirliton shells on a large 3. In a large skillet, melt butter with
rimmed baking sheet, and gently fill oil over medium heat. Add bacon, and
each shell with about ⅓ cup shrimp cook until crisp, about 20 minutes.
mixture. Top with bread crumb Remove bacon using a slotted spoon,
mixture. and let drain on paper towels, reserving
8. Bake until bread crumb mixture 3 tablespoons drippings in skillet.
is golden brown, about 15 minutes. 4. Add onion and garlic to skillet,
Serve warm. and cook over medium heat, stirring
frequently, until just tender, about
CREAMY MIRLITON GRATIN 2 minutes. Add flour, and cook, stirring
MAKES 6 SERVINGS constantly, for 3 minutes. Whisk in
(photo on page 25) milk, salt, and peppers, and cook,
stirring constantly, until thick and
Gouda cheese and smoky bacon give boiling, about 15 minutes. Remove
this gratin an irresistible flavor. from heat; stir in cheeses, 1 tablespoon
thyme, and 1 tablespoon oregano.
6 mirlitons (8 to 10 ounces each), Add mirliton and bacon, stirring until
peeled, halved lengthwise, well combined. Pour mixture into
and seeded prepared ramekins.
1 tablespoon unsalted butter 5. In a small bowl, combine bread
1 tablespoon olive oil crumbs, melted butter, remaining
8 ounces thick-cut bacon, chopped 1 tablespoon thyme, and remaining
¾ cup chopped yellow onion 1 tablespoon oregano. Divide mixture
5 cloves garlic, minced among ramekins.
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 6. Bake until topping is golden brown
3 cups whole milk and filling is bubbly, about 17 minutes.
4 teaspoons kosher salt Let stand for 10 minutes before
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper serving. Garnish with oregano,
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper if desired.
4 ounces Gouda cheese, shredded
2 ounces cream cheese, softened
2 tablespoons chopped fresh
thyme, divided
2 tablespoons chopped fresh
oregano, divided
1 cup panko (Japanese bread
crumbs)
2 tablespoons unsalted
butter, melted
Garnish: fresh oregano
1. In a large Dutch
oven, bring mirlitons
and enough water to
cover to a boil over
medium-high heat;
cook until fork-
tender, about
25 minutes. Using
a slotted spoon,
carefully remove
mirlitons, and place in a
large bowl. Using a potato
masher or an immersion
blender, mash or blend
mirlitons until mostly smooth,
AF I E L D & AF LOAT
FOUNDING
FOODIES
by john d. folse | photography by john o’hagan | food styling by megan lankford | styling by lucy finney
MUCH IS SAID about
our Founding Fathers,
but I cannot help but
wonder if we give similar
esteem to our founding
foodies—our hunters,
fishermen, and farmers.
While I greatly admire
our Founding Fathers,
as a chef, I also cherish
those who traverse the
wilderness, sweep the
seas, and till the earth.
Hunting and
thoughts of hunting have
dominated men’s lives
throughout their existence. Capturing game meant not
only food but also clothing, tools, and the creation of
art in the form of carved bones and painted skins. With
the discovery of fire, humanity and civilization were
revolutionized. Hunting and fire dramatically increased
food choices and nutrition, and the art of cooking began.
The communal evening fire brought people together to
eat, socialize, talk, and plan. Storytelling around the fire
was certainly the harbinger of recorded history. While
the necessity to hunt has diminished over time, the sport
has never waned.
Chef John D. Folse is an entrepreneur with interests ranging from restaurant development and food manufacturing to catering and culinary education.
Similar recipes can be found in Can You Dig It: Louisiana’s Authoritative Collection of Vegetable Cookery (Chef John Folse & Company).
29 louisianacookin.com
Fishing, too, is an ancient form of nourishment.
With water covering about 71 percent of the globe, it is
no wonder that fishing is perhaps the oldest profession
known to man. Fish and seafood offer the world’s largest
supply of “wild food.” Seasonally, Louisianans trawl the
Gulf waters for shellfish and thousands of species of fish
that swim our waters. Fishing provides far more choices
for dinner than land ever could.
Then there are our founding farmers, those seed-
savers and heirloom gardeners who literally reap what
they sow. With the discovery of the Americas came the
Columbian Exchange, an unprecedented exchange of
plants and animals between the Old and New Worlds.
One of these Mesoamerican jewels is the chayote,
which we know in Louisiana (and in Haiti) as mirliton.
Curiously, this pale green fruit also comes in a shell-
white variety called the Ishreal Thibodeaux, named for
the late Opelousas farmer who developed it. Recently,
I have joined ranks with Lance Hill of Tulane University
in New Orleans and David Hubbell of Mobile, Alabama,
to preserve this heirloom fruit, which even has its own
activist website, mirliton.org.
From the great trifecta of founding hunters,
founding fishermen, and founding farmers, a tapestry of
rich goodness emerges. I am referring to the spectacular
dish on the opposite page, Venison, Pork, Shrimp, and
Mirliton Casserole.
VENISON, PORK, SHRIMP,
AND MIRLITON CASSEROLE
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
If you don’t have venison, this recipe is
also great with ground beef.
6 mirlitons, halved lengthwise
12 cups water
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon
kosher salt, divided
¾ cup unsalted butter, cubed and
divided
¾ pound ground venison
¼ pound ground pork
1 cup minced yellow onion
1 cup minced celery
¼ cup minced red bell pepper
¼ cup minced yellow bell pepper
¼ cup minced garlic
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1½ teaspoons granulated garlic
1½ teaspoons ground black pepper
1 pound small fresh shrimp, peeled
and deveined
2 cups panko (Japanese bread
crumbs), divided
½ cup chopped fresh parsley
1. In a large stockpot, place mirliton
halves; add 12 cups water and
1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil over
medium-high heat, and cook until
tender, 35 to 45 minutes. Drain,
reserving 2 cups boiling mirliton
stock. Once cooled, remove mirliton
seeds with a teaspoon, and gently
scoop pulp from shell. Transfer
mirliton shells to the work bowl of
a food processor, and pulse until
chopped; add to reserved mirliton
pulp. Discard excess liquid.
2. In a large heavy-bottomed skillet,
melt 1⁄2 cup butter over medium-high
heat. Add venison and pork; cook
until browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir
until all juices have evaporated. Add
onion, celery, bell peppers, garlic, and
basil; cook until vegetables are wilted,
3 to 5 minutes. Add reserved chopped
mirliton and pulp, granulated
garlic, black pepper, and remaining
1 teaspoon salt. Add reserved
mirliton stock; bring to a rolling boil;
reduce heat, and simmer, stirring
occasionally, until most of liquid has
evaporated, about 45 minutes.
3. Preheat oven to 375°. Spray a
13x9-inch baking dish with cooking
spray.
4. Add shrimp to mirliton mixture,
and cook over medium heat until
shrimp are pink and firm, 3 to
4 minutes. Add 1½ cups bread crumbs
and parsley. Pour into prepared pan.
Sprinkle with remaining ½ cup bread
crumbs, and top with remaining 1⁄4 cup
butter.
5. Bake until lightly browned, 20 to
25 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes
before serving.
 LO U I S IANA
FO O D WAYS

GENERATIONS OF
TRADITION
by daniel schumacher

WHEN A RESTAURANT OPENS, it is designed to
reflect the tastes of that moment. The menu, ambience,
and service styles are all tailored to suit the customers’
expectations. A special few eateries not only get to serve
guests for a few years but go on to thrive for generations.
In New Orleans’ French Quarter, these are called the
“grande dames.” The youngest of those storied restaurants,
Brennan’s, turns 75 this year, and it has a lot more to offer
than its most famous dish, Bananas Foster.
Owen Edward Brennan launched the restaurant on
Bourbon Street in 1946 but soon relocated it to its current
space on Royal Street: a 1795 building, constructed by
artist Edgar Degas’ great-grandfather. To suit the style of
the times, Brennan’s was built to emphasize its tropical
courtyard. Those first decades saw the development of
what would become some of the restaurant’s most notable
dishes and traditions, like Breakfast at Brennan’s and
flaming tableside productions Filet Stanley and Bananas
Foster.
Legendary New Orleans restaurateur Ella Brennan
cut her teeth at Brennan’s before opening Commander’s

Daniel Schumacher is the editor of Taste of the South magazine and a freelance writer who spent eight years eating his way through the Bayou State.
He always enjoys trying a new gumbo, po’ boy, or boudin link.

31 louisianacookin.com
 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Caribbean Milk Punch;
historic photo of waiters in Brennan’s courtyard; cover of
original Brennan’s menu; Brennan’s courtyard.

Palace, and third-generation Brennan family members

have spread their family’s legacy of spirited hospitality and
exceptional cuisine.
In 2013, Owen’s nephew, Ralph, and business partner
Terry White purchased Brennan’s and embarked on a
multimillion dollar renovation and reinterpretation of
the historic restaurant. As they modernized the space by
enlarging the main dining room and shifting the kitchen to
create a larger bar area (the Roost Bar), among many other
changes, they kept a close eye toward respecting the past.
“One of the things we wanted to do was open the
restaurant to the street,” says Ralph. “It goes back to my days
many, many years ago at Mr. B’s Bistro, [where] they have
those windows that wrap around the corner, and over the
years, I always wondered why the kitchen [at Brennan’s] was
in front and people couldn’t see into the restaurant [from

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 32

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Brennan’s Chanteclair Room; Brennan’s owner Ralph Brennan; Brennan’s original owner Owen Brennan;
New Orleans’ famous Sazerac cocktail at the Roost Bar; Bananas Foster.
the street]. At one point, I found this story where my uncle
was quoted as saying he [had originally] wanted more seating
around the courtyard.”
Since the reopening, many of those time-honored dishes
remain on the menu, like Eggs Hussarde (with house-made
English muffins, coffee-cured Canadian bacon, and both
velvety Hollandaise and rich Marchand de Vin sauces) and
Crepes Fitzgerald, one of the restaurant’s tableside preparations
with light crêpes and a seasonal fruit filling. A few new
notable dishes have emerged from past chef Slade Rushing
and his successor, Ryan Hacker, including Shrimp Quenelles
(a sophisticated and thoughtful combination of New Orleans
barbecue shrimp and the city’s historic love of quenelles) and
Mississippi Fried Rabbit, which is served with caramelized
potatoes and onions, eggs over easy, and red-eye jus.
Ryan notes that one of the peculiar challenges for
Brennan’s and the other grande dames is that they don’t just
have to serve outstanding food in a lovely environment,
33 louisianacookin.com
but they also must contend with the memories of their
faithful clientele, who will inevitably compare the flavor and
experience of today’s tableside Steak Diane against the one
they remember from 20 years ago.
“I think the importance of what we were doing didn’t
set in until we opened the doors [in 2014],” says Ryan. “The
second guest who walked in said something to the effect
of ‘We’re here for our 50th anniversary, and we came here
for our wedding,’ and that’s a unique challenge when you’re
trying to set not only the expectation of a new restaurant,
but having the expectation of people who have been
coming for generations and generations. It is a fine line that
I find incredibly interesting to walk.”
Brennan’s will celebrate its anniversary throughout the
year with a French 75 cocktail menu (which includes a
version with a 1946 cognac) as well as wine dinners and
other events.
BARBECUE SHRIMP
QUENELLES
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Courtesy of Ryan Hacker, Executive
Chef, Brennan’s, New Orleans

½ pound fresh extra colossal shrimp,

peeled and deveined
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
4 cold extra-large egg whites
1 cup heavy whipping cream
Garlic Purée (recipe follows) (optional)
Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)
Warm French bread, to serve
4 cooked extra colossal shrimp, to
serve

1. Cut shrimp into chunks; place chunks

in the work bowl of a food processor,
and process for about 30 seconds.
Add salt and nutmeg, and process until
mixture is smooth, 1 to 1½ minutes.
(Be careful not to overprocess.) Add
half of egg whites, and process until
mixture is smooth, about 1 minute,
stopping to scrape sides of bowl. (Be
careful not to overprocess or mixture
will become warm.) Repeat with
remaining egg whites. Add cream, and
process for 1 minute. (Mixture should
be very smooth.) Cover and refrigerate
overnight.
2. Bring a large stockpot of salted water
almost to a boil over medium-low heat.
3. Using a spoon, mold shrimp
mixture into quenelles (egg-shaped
dumplings), and lower them into boiling
water. Poach until slightly firm to the
touch, 2½ to 3 minutes. Turn, and
repeat. Using a slotted spoon, remove
quenelles, and let drain on a cloth
napkin. (At this point, quenelles may be
wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated
overnight.)
4. Divide Garlic Purée (if using)
among 4 warm pasta bowls. Divide
Barbecue Sauce and quenelles among
bowls. Serve immediately with warm
French bread for sopping up sauce.
Note: At Brennan’s, this dish is garnished
with rosemary-dusted crostini and edible
flowers.
GARLIC PURÉE
MAKES ½ CUP
4 ounces garlic cloves (about
3 small heads garlic)
2 cups whole milk, plus more
if needed
1. In a small saucepan, bring garlic and
water to cover to a boil over medium
heat. Drain water and refill pan with
cold water. Repeat procedure twice.
2. Add milk to garlic, and cook over
medium heat until garlic is cooked
through and completely soft, about
20 minutes. Strain garlic through
a fine-mesh sieve. Transfer to the
container of a blender, and purée until
smooth. Add milk, 1 tablespoon at a
time, if mixture is too thick.
BARBECUE SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
3 tablespoons coarsely ground black
pepper
4 teaspoons Creole seasoning
1 to 3 tablespoons beer* (water can be
substituted), divided
2 teaspoons fresh garlic, minced
½ lemon, seeded
12 tablespoons cold unsalted butter
(preferably European-style), cut
into ½-inch cubes
1. In a heavy-bottomed 10-inch
stainless steel saucepan, heat
Worcestershire sauce, pepper, Creole
seasoning, 1 tablespoon beer or water,
and garlic over medium heat. Squeeze
juice from lemon half into pan; add
squeezed lemon half. Reduce heat to
medium-low, and add cold butter, a few
cubes at a time, swirling pan until butter
is melted after each addition. Simmer
until light brown and creamy. Add up to
remaining 2 tablespoons beer or water
if a thinner sauce is desired.
*We used Abita Amber Lager.

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 34

C H E F’S TAB L E

VIET-CAJUN FLAVOR
by daniel schumacher | photography by randy krause schmidt

SINCE BOTH ARE FRENCH-INFLUENCED and have an

affinity for rice, salt, seafood, and heat, it’s a wonder we don’t see more
Vietnamese-Cajun food throughout Louisiana. Now, diners around the
Crescent City can get a taste of that culinary mash-up from Chef Anh
Luu at Bywater Brew Pub, which opened late last year.
Anh is a born-and-raised New Orleanian who got her first kitchen
job in high school before moving to Portland, Oregon, because of
Hurricane Katrina in 2005. She came back to cook at Café Roma,
Jacques-Imo’s, and Crabby Jack’s before returning to Portland to
attend culinary school. While there, she started working on and off
at Tapalaya, a Cajun and Creole small plates restaurant; in 2017, she
purchased the restaurant.
“All my cooking is based on my childhood here and the food my
mom cooked,” Anh says. “She loved Cajun and Creole food and cooked
dinner from scratch every night. And she would make a lot of Cajun
and Creole recipes using the Vietnamese ingredients we had at home.
I do a lot of that here.”
Anh took that childhood fusion inspiration from her mother, a
Vietnamese refugee who settled in New Orleans following the Vietnam
War, and quickly made a name for herself at Tapalaya in Portland.
Diners there connected with her knack for combining flavors and
Chef Anh Luu
creating novel dishes.
In 2019, her mother’s untimely death pushed her to return to
Bywater Brew Pub
3000 Royal St. • New Orleans New Orleans and heal. Through a series of old connections, she was
504-766-8118 introduced to father-son team Nahum and Dylan Laventhal and veteran
bywaterbrewpub.com brewer Sonny Day (who spent time at Urban South Brewery and Abita
Brewing) as they were developing Bywater Brew Pub in the former
London Clayworks building on Royal Street. With dishes like the

Daniel Schumacher is the editor of Taste of the South magazine and a freelance writer who spent eight years eating his way through the Bayou State.
He always enjoys trying a new gumbo, po’ boy, or boudin link.

35 louisianacookin.com
 THE
PHORRITO
TOP RIGHT: Pickles & Pig BOTTOM RIGHT: Bánh Mì
Burger.

Vietnamese Crawfish Étouffée Nachos, Yaka Mein, and

her signature item, the Phorrito, Anh’s deeply satisfying
Viet-Cajun menu she released at the restaurant’s opening
last year built a cultlike following.
“The Phorrito was a harebrained idea that came to
me after I had some pho pop-ups in Portland,” says Anh.
“I love to fuse different flavors like Asian and Mexican as
well, so I wrap all the ingredients that would be in a pho,
like noodles, Thai basil, cilantro, green onion, pickled
bean sprouts, and a beef brisket that I braise in a pho
broth. I thicken that broth enough to pour on every bite
of your burrito.”
The rest of the menu combines her takes on pub
favorites like Vietnamese-accented chicken wings, the
Royal with Cheese (a grilled ¼-pound cheeseburger
with a garlic-soy aïoli on a house-made bun), and a fried
chicken thigh sandwich. Throughout her dishes, diners
will find inspirations from Sonny Day’s beer program,
with some of his German-style beers in the house-made
buns, the Beer Beignet Bites (which are served with versions of the regular menu items that often substitute
a chicory-condensed milk dipping sauce), and even tofu for the protein. Anh uses an ‘ice tofu’ method that
in some off-menu peanut butter and spent grain dog imbues the fermented bean curd with a meatier texture.
biscuits that Anh produces when time allows. Diners As it turns out, the vegan version of the Phorrito is
often bring their four-legged friends to the pub’s patio. often as popular as her braised brisket original.
Also notable is the restaurant’s vegan menu. Anh’s “It’s been amazing to be back home cooking the
exposure to the Portland culinary scene instilled in her food I’ve been cooking over the last 10 years,” says
another level of creativity to produce satisfying meals for Anh. “It’s such a joy cooking the food for people who
vegan customers, and she was surprised to find a similar understand it on that deeper level than just ‘hey, this is
demand in New Orleans. Many of the items are meatless tasty.’”

37 louisianacookin.com
 GRILLED LEMONGRASS
PORK BELLY LETTUCE WRAPS

dishes THE PHORRITO

to try PICKLES & PIG

YAKA MEIN

BÁNH MÌ BURGER
BY T H E BO O K

Louisiana
H EART OF THE CAJUN PRAIRIE
J O I E D E V I VRE —A LI T TL E JOY O F LI VING

OCTOBER 2-3, 2021 OCTOBER 14-17, 2021

26 TH
GERMANFEST 84 TH INTERNATIONAL
GRO U NDS OF ST. LE O RICE FESTIVAL
C ATHOL I C C HURC H
D OW NTOW N CROWLE Y, LA
ROB ERT S COVE, L A
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AC A DI A PA RI
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 Rich in Culture
& History
Great food reflects our
culinary heritage while
showcasing Louisiana’s
bounty. Sample your way
through our dynamic culinary
scene, the Tammany Taste.
Explore the arts, heritage,
and people who make up our
charming towns.

Feed your soul on the

Louisiana Northshore
© Chelsy Wiley

Indulge Your
Sense of
Adventure
Explore your natural side
with a bike ride along the
31-mile Tammany Trace or
a hike at one of our two
waterfront state parks. Find
treasures at local boutiques
and antique shops.

Respite Awaits
St. Tammany Parish is on the northern shores of Lake Pontchartrain and
less than an hour from New Orleans, Baton Rouge, and the Mississippi
Gulf Coast. The Louisiana Northshore’s feel-good vibes invite you to
a place where life slows down and memories are cherished.

#LANorthshore 800.634.9443 LouisianaNorthshore.com/HM

 six chefs who are changing the way
we eat, one dish at a time
photography by randy krause schmidt and john o’hagan
n 2002, Louisiana Cookin’ announced its
I first-ever class of Chefs to Watch. In the
two decades that have followed, we have
seen new generations of chefs carry on
Louisiana’s time-honored traditions while
bringing fresh perspectives to the forefront of the
state’s vibrant culinary scene. Like those before
them, the six chefs who make up our 2021 class
of Chefs to Watch are exceptionally talented
individuals from diverse backgrounds who are
leaving a mark on their communities. These are
chefs we believe will continue to enrich Louisiana’s
dining scene and shape the future of Cajun and
Creole cuisine with new ideas and influences.
This year’s Chefs to Watch lineup includes
Melissa Araujo of Alma, who’s dishing out
41 louisianacookin.com
modern Honduran cuisine in New Orleans’
Bywater neighborhood; Anthony Goldsmith
of Kajun Twist in Galliano and Kajun Twist &
Grill in Lockport, who’s continuing his family’s
culinary legacy and preserving Cajun cuisine for
the next generation; Kaitlin Guerin of Lagniappe
Baking Co. in New Orleans, a professional
ballerina turned pastry chef who is dreaming
up artfully crafted pastries; Serigne Mbaye,
who is showcasing the flavors of Senegal with
a Creole twist through his Dakar Nola pop-up;
Thien Nguyen of Soji in Baton Rouge, a New
Orleans native who is putting his own spin on the
Vietnamese dishes he grew up eating; and Sullivan
Zant, who brings his passion for local sourcing
and seasonal cooking to Vestal in Lafayette.
 2021

TOP ROW, LEFT TO RIGHT: MELISSA ARAUJO, SERIGNE MBAYE MIDDLE ROW, LEFT TO RIGHT: SULLIVAN ZANT, KAITLIN GUERIN
BOTTOM ROW, LEFT TO RIGHT: ANTHONY GOLDSMITH, THIEN NGUYEN

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 42

 2021

sullivan zant Vestal Restaurant

As chef de cuisine at Vestal Restaurant, Sullivan in downtown Lafayette. Vestal offers new Southern fare,
Zant is dedicated to sourcing quality ingredients with an emphasis on locally and regionally sourced
and presenting new versions of the cuisine he was raised seafood, steaks, and vegetables.
on in south Louisiana. “We focus on farm to table and use the freshest of
“Where we are in the heart of Cajun Country, the fresh,” Sullivan says. “That’s really what we try to
everybody’s used to rice and gravy, some form of it,” do in this restaurant, is just source the best available
Sullivan says. “And don’t get me wrong—I love it. But . . . products that we can and not try to change them.
I want to take all these Let them speak for
ingredients and all these themselves and showcase
things that I grew up our ingredients rather
WHAT WE TRY TO DO [AT VESTAL] IS JUST than trying to church
eating and just do it in a
SOURCE THE BEST AVAILABLE PRODUCTS things up with heavy
way that’s a lot lighter.”
THAT WE CAN . . . AND LET THEM SPEAK sauces and things like
Sullivan’s journey to
FOR THEMSELVES. that.”
becoming a chef started
while he was a student This philosophy
at the University of is evident in Sullivan’s
Louisiana at Lafayette. He got a job as a busboy at a local Lump Crab Salad. For this dish, he brushed Bellegarde
Mexican restaurant, and within a few months, he started Bakery sourdough bread with an herb-infused oil,
working in the kitchen. toasted it in Vestal’s wood-fired hearth, and topped it
“I just fell in love with the creativity, and also the with jumbo lump crabmeat and a thick brown butter
ability to work with my hands, and the camaraderie you vinaigrette.
were able to build,” Sullivan says. “It was a different kind “I think that highlighting a really, really amazing
of environment that I had never experienced before, but fresh product is kind of my go-to move,” Sullivan says.
it just felt very welcoming and rewarding.” “And with [this dish], my idea was more so of, ‘How
From there, Sullivan went on to work with 2017 can I showcase the bounty of the Gulf of Mexico in a
Chef to Watch Ryan Trahan at Brick & Spoon, Dark light and refreshing manner with some of the best damn
Roux, Blue Dog Café, and now at Vestal. Vestal opened bread that I’ve ever had in the state of Louisiana?’ And
in May in the former Antlers location on Jefferson Street that’s essentially what I got from it.”

WHERE HE COOKS WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE LATE-NIGHT SNACK?

Vestal Restaurant
555 Jefferson St. DILL PICKLES
Lafayette
337.534.0682

43 louisianacookin.com
 LUMP CRAB SALAD WITH HERB CROSTINI AND BROWN
Try this BUTTER AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
louisianacookin.com/chefstowatch

TOP LEFT Sullivan preparing Lump Crab Salad MIDDLE

LEFT Vestal Restaurant BOTTOM LEFT Ceviche with
white fish, salted strawberry, mint, coriander, and lime
BOTTOM RIGHT Gulf Catch with miso, corn, eggplant,
and tomato

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 44

 2021

melissa araujo Alma

“Alma” means “soul” in Spanish, which makes it Melissa returned to New Orleans as a teenager and
a fitting name for Melissa Araujo’s modern worked in local restaurants as a dishwasher and a line
Honduran eatery in the Bywater. At Alma, everything cook before pursuing a career as a chef. She worked
from the menu to the décor reflects Melissa’s love for in prominent New Orleans restaurants (Restaurant
her heritage. R’evolution and Doris Metropolitan, to name a few) before
“I wanted to take my family’s recipes, my heritage, opening her catering company, Saveur Catering.
and show you who I really was,” Melissa says. “And for Alma started as a pop-up at the former Roux Carré
me to do that, I had to food hub, but it quickly
strip back all the layers outgrew that space.
of me and tell you, ‘This Melissa set aside
[ALMA] IS THE STORY OF MY FAMILY
is my soul; this is who I the idea of opening a
THROUGH FOOD, AND THE STORY OF MY
am.’ We have a strong base restaurant, but every
HERITAGE, AND EMPOWERING WOMEN.
of traditional Honduran week, she got a phone call
cooking, but the way we asking when she would
present it is much more be reopening. When
modern . . . It’s the story of my family through food, and the building Alma is in became available in late 2019,
the story of my heritage, and empowering women.” the idea came alive again, and Melissa opened Alma last
Melissa was born in the Caribbean port city La Ceiba September.
in Atlántida, Honduras, and spent her early years in New At Alma, Melissa presents modern versions of the
Orleans until her father’s work with the railroad business Honduran dishes she grew up eating, including her
took the family to Providence, Rhode Island. With her childhood favorite, the Plátano Maduro (a deep-fried
father’s Honduran heritage and her mother’s Sicilian- plantain topped with refried beans, homemade crema, and
Italian roots, a love for food was instilled in Melissa at a queso fresco), and Baleadas Sencilla (a street taco filled with
young age. scrambled eggs, refried beans, crema, queso fresco, and
“My childhood, my life, moved around food,” Melissa avocado). Melissa considers herself a seasonal chef, and her
says. “My sisters and my mom and my grandmothers goal is to enhance the flavor of the ingredients she uses in
cooking huge meals—that was my happy place. That’s her dishes. “I don’t hide behind a lot of condiments,” she
where I felt at home.” says. “I let the natural flavor of the food come out.”

WHERE SHE COOKS WHAT’S THE SECRET TO MAKING GREAT LOUISIANA FOOD?
Alma
800 Louisa Street ALWAYS USE FRESH INGREDIENTS
New Orleans
504.381.5877

45 louisianacookin.com
 TACO DE PATO CON SALSA NEGRA (DUCK TACO WITH
Try this BLACK SALSA) AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
louisianacookin.com/chefstowatch

TOP LEFT Décor at Alma MIDDLE LEFT Melissa grinding chiles in a mortar and pestle
BOTTOM LEFT Louisa Toast BOTTOM RIGHT Pollo Chuco

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 46

 2021

anthony goldsmith Kajun Twist, Kajun Twist & Grill

Cooking is in Anthony Goldsmith’s blood. He is that location for about 30 years, and Anthony wanted
part of a culinary dynasty led by his great- to keep it going since it had been a longtime staple for
grandmother, Alzina Toups, the celebrated cook who the Lafourche Parish community. He opened his second
served Cajun home cooking at her reservations-only location, Kajun Twist & Grill, this past January on a
restaurant well into her 90s, and his grandfather, busy stretch of highway in Lockport. At both locations,
Anthony Toups, who owned Toupsie’s Kajun Eatery. Anthony strives to stay true to his Cajun roots and stick
Now, Anthony Goldsmith is following in his family’s to traditional ingredients and methods.
footsteps and blazing his own path at his two restaurants “I know it might get stale, but for the Cajun people
in Lafourche Parish, Kajun Twist in Galliano and Kajun down here, it’s something that I don’t want people to lose,
Twist & Grill in Lockport. because a lot of the younger people aren’t cooking like
Anthony grew up in Galliano surrounded by that. They’re eating out a lot more,” he says. “I want them
extended family, who would gather every Sunday for a to have a place where they can still get their Cajun food
meal at Alzina’s house. “We’d wake up Sunday morning, that they grew up with and have that to fall on.”
and she would always be Both locations have
cooking,” Anthony says. an old-school diner vibe,
“I loved the macaroni, which sets the scene for
[OUR FOOD] IS ALL HANDMADE, HOW IT’S
the homemade chicken a menu that includes
SUPPOSED TO BE COOKED. IT TAKES TIME
nuggets, the homemade fried oyster po’boys
TO DO IT, BUT IT’S WORTH IT IN THE END.
gumbo every time. It on French bread from
was usually chicken Duet’s Bakery, juicy fried
and sausage—that’s just chicken, and daily plate
what we ate a lot—but we would do a shrimp-and-okra lunch specials that range from fried pork chops with
gumbo here and there [and] corn soup whenever it was lima beans and cornbread to fish chips and white beans
getting cold. We were all eating together . . . and that was with rice. Recipes like his crawfish étouffée and black-
Sundays growing up.” eyed pea jambalaya have been passed down from his
Anthony’s interest in cooking blossomed while he great-grandmother and tweaked to make them his own.
was a student at LSU, and after he graduated, he took “[Our food] is all handmade, how it’s supposed to
over the original Kajun Twist in Galliano, which had be cooked,” Anthony says. “It takes time to do it, but it’s
been closed for about a year. His mother had managed worth it in the end.”

WHERE HE COOKS WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE COOKING MEMORY?

Kajun Twist & Grill
616 Crescent Avenue MAKING HOMEMADE PIZZA POCKETS
Lockport WITH MY GREAT-GRANDMOTHER
985.242.2300

47 louisianacookin.com
 BLACK-EYED PEA JAMBALAYA
Try this AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
louisianacookin.com/chefstowatch

TOP LEFT Anthony in the kitchen at Kajun Twist & Grill MIDDLE
LEFT Kajun Twist & Grill in Lockport BOTTOM LEFT Amaretto
Yams BOTTOM RIGHT Shrimp Boulettes

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 48

 2021

serigne mbaye Dakar Nola

At Dakar Nola, every dish has a story to tell. thinking about his next move and returned to New
Serigne Mbaye started his pop-up dinner series Orleans in the spring of 2020 with plans to open Dakar
in New Orleans last year to share the cuisine of Senegal, Nola.
where he was raised, in a modern light. Once back in New Orleans, Serigne started offering
The ambitious young chef was born in New York and curbside pickup and collaborating with other chefs
attended boarding school in Senegal, where his interest before hosting pop-up dinners at Margaret Place, a hotel
in cooking was first sparked as a young boy helping and event space in the Lower Garden District. He hopes
out in the kitchen. Serigne returned to New York as a to open a brick-and-mortar location soon.
teenager and started washing dishes at The Harrison Serigne serves modern Senegalese food with a
(which has since closed). That experience led him to Creole twist, and he comes out of the kitchen between
enroll in culinary school courses to give guests
at the New England a quick history lesson
Culinary Institute in on each dish and its
[AT DAKAR NOLA], WE ALSO USE MORE
Vermont. significance. With
ELEVATED TECHNIQUES THAT I USED
After graduating Dakar Nola, Serigne
THROUGHOUT MY COOKING OVER THE
from culinary school, presents updated takes
YEARS WORKING IN ALL THESE AMAZING
Serigne traveled to on Senegalese staples,
RESTAURANTS.
Senegal, and during including akara (black-
his return trip back eyed pea fritters), Soup
to the States, Serigne Kanja (Senegalese
met a friend of Tory McPhail, then-executive chef at seafood gumbo with palm oil), and yassa (a dish of
Commander’s Palace. That introduction earned Serigne marinated chicken or fish in onion and mustard gravy).
a job at the famed New Orleans restaurant, where he The menu changes based on what’s in season at the
worked his way up the line for nearly two years, after farmers’ market and what seafood is fresh. So, instead of
which he became sous chef at Café Adelaide before it fish, Serigne might use shrimp in his yassa.
closed in 2018. “Traditional Senegalese cuisine, usually, is a one-pot
Serigne then traveled and worked at Michelin- style of cooking,” Serigne says. “[At Dakar Nola], we also
starred restaurants Atelier Crenn in San Francisco use more elevated techniques that I used throughout
and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in New York City. my cooking over the years working in all these amazing
Three months after he started working in New York, restaurants—the plating, the service, just things that I
the pandemic hit, and he lost his job. Serigne started learned and incorporated into my food.”

WHERE HE COOKS IF YOU HAD NOT BECOME A CHEF, WHICH PROFESSION

Dakar Nola WOULD YOU HAVE CHOSEN?
New Orleans
@dakarnola BASKETBALL

49 louisianacookin.com
Try this YASSA AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
louisianacookin.com/chefstowatch

TOP LEFT Fonio Salad MIDDLE LEFT Serigne prepping

for a pop-up dinner at Margaret Place BOTTOM LEFT
Shrimp & Fonio Grits BOTTOM RIGHT Sombi (rice
pudding with blueberry jam and coconut ataya ice cream)

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 50

 2020

Thien Nguyen Soji: Modern Asian

Thien Nguyen’s path to becoming a chef started to how you would do a braise in Asian cooking,” Thien
as a child growing up in a Vietnamese family in says. “So, just having that foundation from culinary
New Orleans. The kitchen was the heart of his family’s school set me up for success.”
home, a place where they socialized and where Thien Prior to becoming executive chef at Soji, Thien
helped his grandmother prepare his favorite dish, a was sous chef and then executive chef at Kalurah Street
braised pork dish called thit kho, and wrap up pastries Grill in Baton Rouge and worked a short stint in Disney
she had made to sell at weekend farmers’ markets. World until the pandemic shut the theme park down.
“In my family, everyone is a really good cook,” Thien At that point, Thien and his wife moved back to Baton
says. “I was blessed to grow up around really good food Rouge, and Thien reached out to Soji’s proprietor, Chase
all the time. My grandmas on my mom and my dad’s Lyons, about the executive chef opening. “From the
side always brought me to the kitchen . . . and they kind moment we met, everything just clicked,” Thien says.
of set the foundation of what I wanted to do.” At Soji, Thien has added a personal touch to
While working as a busboy at his aunt’s restaurant, the menu with dishes like Salt & Pepper Calamari,
Thien would peek his Vietnamese Egg Roll
head in the kitchen and Lettuce Wraps, and
became interested in Asian Sticky Ribs. The
MY COOKING STYLE IS TAKING THINGS THAT lettuce wraps and ribs
that side of the business.
I GREW UP EATING AND PUTTING A REFINED, were inspired by his
He enrolled at the Chef
CONTEMPORARY SPIN ON IT. parents’ recipes, and his
John Folse Culinary
Institute at Nicholls State Asian Pork Belly was
University in Thibodaux, inspired by the thit kho
which afforded him opportunities for internships and his grandmother taught him to make.
a summer program at the Institut Paul Bocuse in Lyon, “The flavor profiles are a little bit more refined, and
France. just the techniques I’ve been using are a little bit more
“Having those foundations and studying different updated,” Thien says. “I like to keep things simple, but at
kinds of cuisines, you can kind of see how knowing how the same time, when you taste it, you’re like, ‘Oh man,
to make a sauce in French cooking could translate over like a lot of time and energy went into this.’”

WHERE HE COOKS WHAT’S THE LAST THING YOU ATE?

Soji: Modern Asian
5050 Government St. A PEPPERONI PIZZA FROM
Baton Rouge TRADER JOE’S
225.300.4448

51 louisianacookin.com
 ASIAN PORK BELLY
Try this AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
louisianacookin.com/chefstowatch

TOP LEFT Soji’s noodle bar MIDDLE

LEFT Thien garnishing Asian Pork Belly
BOTTOM LEFT Vietnamese Egg Roll
Lettuce Wraps BOTTOM RIGHT Salt &
Pepper Calamari

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 52

 2021

Kaitlin Guerin Lagniappe Baking Co.

Like many people, Kaitlin Guerin baked during for friends and family and eventually started offering
the pandemic to relieve stress. Now, New pastry boxes through Lagniappe Baking Co. Her pastry
Orleanians can try her artfully crafted pastries in the boxes, which are available the first three Saturdays of each
pastry boxes she sells through Lagniappe Baking Co., a month and can be ordered online, are composed of a
small-batch pastry business. rotating selection of creative treats that showcase locally
A native of New Orleans East, Kaitlin studied dance sourced ingredients and unique flavor combinations.
at Skidmore College in upstate New York before moving (Note: Kaitlin paused Lagniappe’s pastry boxes for the
to the Bay Area in California to dance professionally. summer but will resume orders in the fall.)
While working to support her dancing dreams, Kaitlin During her time in New Orleans, Kaitlin has
realized that baking was collaborated with other
another creative outlet local chefs, including
she enjoyed and decided fellow Chef to Watch
to switch gears and [BAKING] IS ANOTHER WAY FOR ME TO Serigne Mbaye at his
pursue a baking career. EXPRESS MYSELF AS AN ART FORM. Dakar Nola pop-ups,
“I had discovered and she sells her pastries
that there was another at SPROUT NOLA
interest for me, another ReFresh Farmers’ Market
way to express myself that wasn’t just through dancing, on Mondays and The Elysian Bar on Saturdays. As for
but was also through food . . . It’s another way for me to her Lagniappe pastry boxes, they might include Roasted
express myself as an art form,” Kaitlin says. Strawberry Cake with Lemon Curd and Brown Butter
Kaitlin enrolled in the baking and pastry program Buttercream, Sweet Potato Miso Pie, Blueberry Thyme
at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in Blondies, or Rosemary Pecan Sticky Buns. Kaitlin changes
Napa Valley, and she had the opportunity to complete an the pastry offerings each week, depending on seasonality
externship at Restaurant 108 in Copenhagen, Denmark. and what’s in season at the local farmers’ market.
After graduation, Kaitlin worked at State Bird Provisions “It’s kind of whatever is inspiring me that week or
and The Progress in San Francisco until the beginning of that moment,” Kaitlin says. “I keep a running tab of
2020, when she came home to New Orleans to unwind interesting flavor combinations, and I’ll just kind of put
and spend time with family for a few months. things together and figure things out, and that’s the really
When the pandemic happened, Kaitlin started baking fun part.”

WHERE SHE BAKES WHAT’S THE MOST MEMORABLE MEAL YOU’VE HAD?
Lagniappe Baking Co.
New Orleans MOSQUITO SUPPER CLUB
lagniappebaking.com

53 louisianacookin.com
 SWEET POTATO MISO PIE WITH POBLANO CREAM
Try this AT THE CHEFS TO WATCH DINNER
louisianacookin.com/chefstowatch

TOP LEFT Roasted Strawberry Cake with Lemon Curd and

Brown Butter Buttercream MIDDLE LEFT Kaitlin pouring glaze
over Chocolate Poblano Mousse Cake BOTTOM LEFT Puff Puff
BOTTOM RIGHT Chocolate Poblano Mousse Cake

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 54

 photography by jim bathie | recipe development by izzie turner
food styling by kathleen kanen | styling by lily simpson
“
F
irst, you make a roux.” That’s how
some of the most iconic Cajun and
Creole recipes begin—with a roux.
A good roux is the foundation for dishes like
gumbo, étouffée, and sauce piquante. Roux is
simply a cooked mixture of equal parts flour
and fat (usually vegetable oil, butter, or bacon
drippings) that is used as a thickening agent
and imparts incredible flavor to our favorite
recipes.
Roux can range in color and thickening
ability. The lighter the roux, the more
thickening power it has. Blond roux is great for
étouffée, light brown or peanut butter-colored
roux is most commonly used for seafood
gumbo, and the signature dark brown roux
of Cajun Country is the base for dishes like
chicken and sausage gumbo, crawfish bisque,
and sauce piquante.
Making a roux is simple, but it requires
constant attention and patience to prepare
correctly. Thankfully, we’re here to help you
make the perfect roux for all your favorite
Cajun and Creole dishes. Follow these
guidelines and you’ll be well on your way to
mastering this essential technique.
55 louisianacookin.com
ROUX RULES
1. BUTTER VS. OIL
Butter is more traditional in French cooking and is
preferred when making a dairy-based recipe, because
the butter flavor complements the dairy. Oil is more
traditional in Cajun cooking. It is preferred when making
a dark roux for dishes like gumbo. Oil has a higher smoke
point and therefore does not burn as easily as butter.
2. STOVETOP VS. OVEN
The stovetop method is best for visibility. When making
a blond roux, it is easier to do on the stovetop. When
making a dark roux, the oven method is most effective
because the even heat of an oven helps to cook the roux
evenly. This is helpful when nearing the threshold of dark
brown instead of burned.
3. LOW AND SLOW
It is important to be patient and not rush the process.
Rushing risks burning or unevenly cooking the roux and
can ruin the finished product.
4. ROUX RATIO
As a rule, always use equal parts flour and fat (butter or
oil), no matter the size of the batch.
5. DON’T SHOCK THE ROUX!
Heat your liquid before adding it to your roux. Adding
cold liquid to roux risks breaking the final product,
causing the fat to separate.
STOVETOP ROUX
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

2 cups vegetable oil or unsalted butter

2 cups all-purpose flour

1. In a Dutch oven or large cast-iron skillet, heat oil or

butter over medium-high heat. Add flour, stirring until
smooth. Reduce heat to medium, and cook, stirring
frequently, until mixture has lost its raw flour smell but
before any color occurs, 5 to 7 minutes.
2. For blond roux, cook, stirring frequently, until roux is
light golden brown in color, 15 to 20 minutes. For brown
roux, cook, stirring frequently, until roux is golden brown,
similar to peanut butter, 30 to 35 minutes. For dark brown
roux, cook, stirring frequently, until roux is a deep brown
color, similar to milk chocolate, 45 to 55 minutes. Remove
from heat. Use immediately, or let cool completely, and
refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 month or
freeze in an airtight container for up to 6 months.

OVEN ROUX
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 cups vegetable oil or unsalted butter, melted

1. Preheat oven to 350°.

2. In a Dutch oven or large cast-iron or ovenproof skillet,
vigorously stir together flour and oil or melted butter until
combined and smooth.
3. Bake until desired color is reached, stirring every 10 to
15 minutes. For blond roux, bake until roux is light golden
brown in color, 20 to 25 minutes. For brown roux, bake
until roux is golden brown, similar to peanut butter, 30 to
35 minutes. For dark brown roux, bake until roux is a deep
brown color, similar to milk chocolate, 45 to 50 minutes.
Use immediately, or let cool completely, and refrigerate
in an airtight container for up to 1 month or freeze in an
airtight container for up to 6 months.
BAKED POTATO
SOUP

P. 63
S
Hearty
S
oups and tews
AS SUMMER FADES TO FALL, TURN TO THESE COMFORTING SOUPS
AND STEWS WITH BOLD, SEASONAL FLAVORS

photography by steve rizzo | recipe development by izzie turner

food styling by vanessa rocchio | styling by lily simpson
AMBER BEEF
STEW

P. 63
 SHRIMP AND
CORN CHOWDER

P. 64

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 60

 PECAN SOUP

P. 64

61 louisianacookin.com
DARK OYSTER
STEW

P. 64

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 62


BAKED POTATO SOUP
MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS
Topping this soup with chopped tasso
gives it a uniquely Louisiana flavor.
4 large russet potatoes
½ cup unsalted butter
½ cup all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk, room
temperature
½ cup heavy whipping cream, room
temperature
½ cup sour cream, room
temperature, plus more to serve
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Cooked chopped tasso, grated sharp
Cheddar cheese, and sliced green
onion, to serve
1. Preheat oven to 400°.
2. Wash potatoes, and prick with a
fork. Place on a baking sheet.
3. Bake until potatoes are cooked
through and soft, about 1 hour.
Let cool enough to handle.
4. In a Dutch oven, melt butter over
medium-high heat. Add flour, and
whisk until smooth and combined,
about 1 minute. Gradually whisk in
milk until smooth. Whisk in cream
and sour cream, and bring to a low
63 louisianacookin.com
boil. Reduce heat to medium-low,
and simmer until thickened, about
10 minutes.
5. Scrape potatoes into a bowl,
discarding skins, and break up any
large pieces. Add potato to soup, and
whisk until just combined and smooth.
Stir in salt. Serve with tasso, sour
cream, cheese, and green onion.
AMBER BEEF STEW
MAKES ABOUT 1¾ QUARTS
(photo on page 59)
We used amber lager to add another
layer of flavor in this hearty stew.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 pounds beef chuck roast, cut into
1-inch cubes
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups chopped sweet onion
(about 1 onion)
1 cup chopped celery
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
1 tablespoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper
½ teaspoon garlic powder
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 (12-ounce) bottle amber lager*,
room temperature
1 (14.5-ounce) can beef broth
2 cups ½-inch-chopped peeled
sweet potatoes
Garnish: chopped fresh parsley,
crushed red pepper
1. In a large Dutch oven, heat oil over
medium heat. Add half of beef, and
cook until browned on all sides, 5 to
7 minutes. Remove beef from pot,
and set aside. Repeat with remaining
beef.
2. In same pot, melt butter over
medium heat. Add onion, celery,
thyme, salt, black pepper, red pepper,
and garlic powder; cook until onion
is softened and translucent. Add
tomato paste, and cook, stirring
frequently, until color deepens,
about 3 minutes. Add flour, and
cook, stirring frequently, until flour
is golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes.
Increase heat to high, and add beer,
scraping browned bits from bottom of
pot with a wooden spoon. Bring to a
boil, and add beef and broth. Return
to a boil, and add sweet potato.
Reduce heat to medium, and simmer
until meat and sweet potato are
tender and liquid has thickened, about
45 minutes. Garnish with parsley and
red pepper, if desired.
*We used Abita Amber Lager.
SHRIMP AND CORN
CHOWDER
MAKES ABOUT 3½ QUARTS
(photo on page 60)
With fresh shrimp, sweet corn kernels,
and poblano peppers, you’ll want second
helpings of this creamy chowder.
½ cup unsalted butter
1 cup chopped leek (white and light
green parts only) (about 1 leek)
¾ cup diced red bell pepper
½ cup chopped celery
½ cup diced poblano pepper (about
1 pepper)
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1½ tablespoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon Creole seasoning
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ cup all-purpose flour
1 quart hot vegetable broth
(at least 140°)
2 cups water
2 cups diced peeled Yukon gold
potato (about 4 medium
potatoes)
2 cups heavy whipping cream
3 cups fresh corn kernels
1½ pounds peeled and deveined
large fresh shrimp
Garnish: sliced fresh chives, hot sauce
1. In a large Dutch oven, melt butter
over medium heat. Add leek, bell
pepper, celery, poblano, garlic, salt,
Creole seasoning, and black pepper;
cook until vegetables begin to soften.
Add flour, and cook until flour begins
to turn golden in color. Increase heat
to medium-high. Add hot broth and
2 cups water, scraping browned bits
from bottom of pot with a wooden
spoon. Add potato and cream, and
bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium,
and simmer until potatoes are
softened, 10 to 15 minutes. Add corn,
and cook for 10 minutes. Add shrimp,
and cook until shrimp are pink and
firm, 5 to 10 minutes. Garnish with
chives and hot sauce, if desired.
PECAN SOUP
MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS
(photo on page 61)
The delicious taste of pecans shines in
this comforting soup, which is similar to
chestnut soup.
½ cup unsalted butter
1 cup chopped leek (white and light
green parts only) (about 1 leek)
½ cup chopped shallot (about
1 large shallot)
½ cup chopped celery
½ cup chopped peeled carrot
(about 1 large carrot)
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 tablespoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 pound pecan pieces
4 cups vegetable broth
3 cups heavy whipping cream
Garnish: toasted pecans, crème
fraîche, sliced fresh chives
1. In a large Dutch oven, melt butter
over medium heat. Add leek, shallot,
celery, carrot, garlic, salt, black pepper,
and cayenne; cook until vegetables
are tender, about 10 minutes. Increase
heat to medium-high. Add pecans,
broth, and cream; bring to a boil.
Reduce heat to medium, and simmer
until pecans are plumped and liquid is
slightly thickened, 20 to 25 minutes.
2. Transfer half of soup to the
container of a blender. Secure lid on
blender, and remove center piece
of lid to let steam escape; place a
clean towel over opening in lid to
avoid splatters. Process until smooth.
Transfer to a bowl. Repeat with
remaining soup. Return soup to pot,
and keep warm until ready to serve.
Garnish with toasted pecans, crème
fraîche, and chives.
DARK OYSTER STEW
MAKES ABOUT 1¾ QUARTS
(photo on page 62)
Most Louisiana-style oyster stews are
buttery and cream-based. This version
shakes things up with a dark brown roux
and is packed with plump, briny oysters.
½ cup unsalted butter
½ cup all-purpose flour
1 cup chopped shallot (about
2 shallots)
¾ cup chopped red bell pepper
(about 1 bell pepper)
½ cup chopped celery
⅓ cup chopped poblano pepper
(about 1 pepper)
1 tablespoon chopped garlic (about
3 large cloves)
1 tablespoon salt-free Creole
seasoning*
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 (32-ounce) container chicken
broth
5 (8-ounce) containers shucked
oysters, drained (reserve oyster
liquor)
Sliced French bread, to serve
Garnish: chopped fresh parsley, sliced
green onion
1. In a Dutch oven, melt butter over
medium-high heat. Add flour, and
whisk vigorously until smooth and
combined. Reduce heat to medium,
and cook until roux is dark brown in
color but not burned, similar to the
color of milk chocolate, 30 to
40 minutes.
2. Add shallot, bell pepper, celery,
poblano, garlic, Creole seasoning,
salt, and black pepper to roux. Cook
over medium heat until vegetables
are tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Increase
heat to medium-high. Whisk in broth
and 2 cups reserved oyster liquid until
combined. (If oyster liquor does not
equal 2 cups, use water to make up
the remaining volume.) Simmer until
thickened, 25 to 30 minutes.
3. Add oysters to stew, and simmer
until just cooked through, 1 to
2 minutes. Serve with French bread.
Garnish with parsley and green onion,
if desired.
*We used Tony Chachere’s No Salt
Seasoning Blend.
C
ooler temperatures are the perfect excuse for an outdoor
dinner party with family and friends. This fall, gather your
crew for a delicious backyard dinner where the flavors of
the season take center stage. Bring fall’s best ingredients to your
table with a dinner menu featuring peppery pork tenderloin,
hearty roasted vegetables, butternut squash crostini, and bread
pudding with apples and bourbon. With dishes this elegant
and appetizing, you’re sure to have an unforgettable meal that
will delight all your guests.

photography by steve rizzo | recipe development by laura crandall

food styling by kathleen kanen | styling by mary beth jones
 BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND
GOAT CHEESE CROSTINI

P. 71

67 louisianacookin.com
 HERB-ROASTED
SWEET POTATOES

P. 71

ROASTED
BROCCOLINI WITH
BROWN BUTTER

P. 72
 PEPPERY PORK
TENDERLOINS WITH
MUSTARD GLAZE

P. 71
APPLE BOURBON
BREAD PUDDING

P. 72

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 70

BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND
GOAT CHEESE CROSTINI
MAKES 12
(photo on page 67)
The sweet flavor of butternut squash is
balanced by tangy goat cheese and salty
prosciutto in these bite-size appetizers.
12 (½-inch-thick) baguette slices
(cut on diagonal)
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons olive
oil, divided
6 ounces goat cheese
5 tablespoons heavy whipping
cream
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
½ teaspoon lemon zest
1 (2-ounce) package thinly sliced
prosciutto
1 cup ½-inch-diced peeled
butternut squash
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground white pepper
1 tablespoon honey
Garnish: honey, fresh thyme
1. Preheat oven to 375°. Line a
rimmed baking sheet with foil.
2. On prepared pan, place baguette
slices cut side up, and brush with
1 tablespoon oil.
3. Bake for 5 minutes. Increase oven
temperature to broil. Broil on center
rack of oven until golden, about
2 minutes. Let cool completely.
4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the paddle attachment, beat
goat cheese at low speed. Gradually
add cream; increase mixer speed to
medium, and beat until smooth. Add
thyme and lemon zest, and beat until
combined. Cover and refrigerate until
ready to use.
5. Cut prosciutto into 12 pieces the
length of baguette slices.
6. In a medium skillet, heat remaining
2 teaspoons oil over medium heat.
Add squash, salt, and pepper, stirring
until combined. Cook, without
stirring, until bottom of squash is
golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir,
and cook until squash begins to
soften, about 2 minutes. Add honey,
and cook, stirring frequently, until
squash is fork-tender, 2 to 3 minutes.
Transfer to a small bowl, and let cool
completely.
7. Spread a layer of goat cheese
mixture onto each baguette slice.
71 louisianacookin.com
Place a piece of prosciutto on top of
goat cheese mixture. Top with squash,
and garnish with honey and thyme, if
desired.
KITCHEN TIP: This recipe may
not use an entire baguette. If
desired, brush any leftover
baguette slices with olive oil and
garlic, and top with Parmesan
cheese.
PEPPERY PORK
TENDERLOINS WITH
MUSTARD GLAZE
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
(photo on page 69)
Served with a zesty vinaigrette, this pork
tenderloin recipe is an elegant main dish
for any dinner party.
4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 (1-pound) pork tenderloins,
trimmed
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¾ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Champagne Vinaigrette (recipe
follows)
2 tablespoons chopped arugula
Garnish: fresh arugula
1. Preheat oven to 375°.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together
3 tablespoons oil and mustard; set
aside.
3. Rub remaining 1 tablespoon oil all
over pork; rub salt, black pepper, and
cayenne all over pork. Let stand for
10 minutes.
4. Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet
over medium-high heat until hot
and smoking. Reduce heat to
medium. Add pork, and cook, turning
frequently, until browned on all sides,
about 10 minutes. Brush pork with
mustard mixture.
5. Bake until an instant-read
thermometer registers 145°, about
15 minutes, or to desired degree of
doneness. Remove from skillet, and
let stand for 10 minutes. (Do not
cover as it will sweat off the coating.)
Slice and serve with Champagne
Vinaigrette and chopped arugula.
Garnish with arugula, if desired.
CHAMPAGNE VINAIGRETTE
MAKES ½ CUP
¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup Champagne vinegar
1 tablespoon finely diced shallot
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper
1. In a small bowl, whisk together all
ingredients. Use immediately.
HERB-ROASTED
SWEET POTATOES
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
(photo on page 68)
Fresh thyme and sage give plenty of
herby flavor to these sweet potatoes.
7 cups 1-inch-cubed peeled sweet
potatoes (about 5 medium
potatoes)
1½ tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
½ teaspoon ground black pepper,
divided
¼ cup unsalted butter
¼ cup finely sliced leeks (white and
light green parts only)
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage
(about 8 leaves)
1 cup dry white wine
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper
½ cup shaved Parmesan cheese
1. Preheat oven to 375°. Line a
rimmed baking sheet with foil.
2. On prepared pan, toss together
sweet potatoes, oil, 1½ teaspoons salt,
and ¼ teaspoon black pepper. Spread
into a single layer.
3. Bake until golden and fork-tender,
30 to 40 minutes, stirring halfway
through baking.
4. Meanwhile, in a medium skillet,
melt butter over medium-high
heat. Add leeks, and cook, stirring
occasionally, until fragrant, about
2 minutes. Add thyme and sage,
and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds
to 1 minute. Add wine, red pepper,
remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and
remaining ¼ teaspoon black pepper.
Reduce heat to medium, and simmer
until reduced by half, 3 to 5 minutes.
5. Place roasted sweet potatoes in a
serving dish. Pour sauce over sweet
potatoes, gently tossing to coat. Top
with cheese. Serve hot.
KITCHEN TIP: Sauce can be
kept over low heat until ready
to use.
ROASTED BROCCOLINI
WITH BROWN BUTTER
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
(photo on page 68)
Brown butter and toasted pecans add a
lovely nuttiness to this simple side dish.
1½ pounds Broccolini
¼ cup chopped shallots
2 tablespoons olive oil
¾ teaspoon kosher salt, divided
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ cup unsalted butter
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
⅓ cup chopped toasted pecans
1. Preheat oven to 375°. Line a
rimmed baking sheet with foil.
2. Trim 2 inches off ends of
Broccolini. If stalks are thick, cut
stalks in half lengthwise. Place on
prepared pan, and add shallot, oil,
½ teaspoon salt, and pepper, tossing
to coat. Spread into a single layer.
3. Bake until Broccolini stalks are
fork-tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan,
melt butter over medium-high heat.
Cook, swirling pan occasionally,
until bubbles subside and butter
solids begin to brown on bottom of
pan, 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and
remaining ¼ teaspoon salt, and cook
until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Stir in lemon juice. Drizzle onto
Broccolini; toss well. Sprinkle with
pecans.
APPLE BOURBON
BREAD PUDDING
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
With apples, bourbon, and a dollop of
boozy whipped cream, these individual
bread puddings are the ideal way to end
a fall dinner.
1 tablespoon unsalted butter,
softened
7 cups 1-inch-cubed challah or
brioche bread
2⅔ cups half-and-half
½ cup unsalted butter
⅔ cup firmly packed light brown
sugar
⅓ cup granulated sugar
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons bourbon (optional)
1 teaspoon apple pie spice
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1½ cups diced Honeycrisp apple
4 teaspoons sparkling sugar
Spiked Whipped Cream (recipe
follows)
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Coat
6 (8-ounce) ramekins with softened
butter, and place on a rimmed baking
sheet.
2. In a large bowl, toss together bread
cubes and half-and-half. Set aside.
3. In a large saucepan, melt butter
over medium heat. Add brown sugar
and granulated sugar, whisking until
smooth and combined. Remove
from heat; slowly add eggs, whisking
until combined. Whisk in bourbon (if
using), pie spice, and salt. Pour over
bread mixture. Gently fold in apple
until combined. Spoon about 1 cup
bread mixture into each prepared
ramekin. (Ramekins will be full.)
Sprinkle with sparkling sugar,
and cover with foil.
4. Bake for 25 minutes. Uncover and
bake until lightly golden brown and a
wooden pick inserted in center comes
out clean, about 10 minutes more.
(Bread pudding will be puffed but
will fall as it starts to cool). Let cool
for at least 10 minutes. Serve warm
or at room temperature with Spiked
Whipped Cream.
KITCHEN TIP: Bourbon can be
replaced with half the amount of
vanilla extract (1 tablespoon in
the bread pudding, 1 teaspoon in
the whipped cream).
SPIKED WHIPPED CREAM
MAKES 2 CUPS
1 cup cold heavy
whipping cream
2 tablespoons
granulated sugar
2 teaspoons bourbon
(optional)
½ teaspoon apple pie
spice
1. In a large bowl, beat
cold cream, sugar, bourbon
(is using), and pie spice with
a mixer at high speed until
medium-stiff peaks form.
 THE
HOT LIST
FROM
TOP 15 CAJUN A N D
CREOLE PRODUCTS
E V E R YO N E S H O U L D H AV E I N T H E I R K I T C H E N
F rom jambalaya and gumbo to
muffulettas and beignets, the
Bayou State is home to some of the most
delicious food you’ll find anywhere in
the world. It’s easy to cook Cajun and
Creole cuisine at home when you have
the right ingredients, and the good news
is that these ingredients can be found in
most grocery stores. Andouille sausage,
rice, hot sauce, cane syrup, dried
beans—the list goes on and on, and
every Louisiana cook has their preferred
brand that suits their tastes. If you’re like
us, you keep a well-stocked pantry and
fridge so you can cook up your favorite
73 louisianacookin.com
Louisiana dishes any time a craving hits.
In this list, you’ll find a few of
the items we like to use for everyday
cooking. We know that everyone has
their go-to ingredients and preferred
brands, but these are a few of the staples
we believe you should keep on hand.
We’ve got all the bases covered, with
essentials like rice and Creole seasoning
as well as flavorful mustard and pepper
jelly to spice up your cooking. Stock
your kitchen with these ingredients, and
you’ll be well on your way to making
spectacular Cajun and Creole food no
matter where you live.
PRAIRIE RONDE JAMBALAYA GIRL CAMELLIA BRAND
LONG GRAIN RICE JAMBALAYA RICE MIX RED KIDNEY BEANS

Louisianans eat rice with pretty much
everything—gumbo, jambalaya, étouffée,
and boudin. As one of the top rice
producers in the country, Louisiana is
home to rice mills like James Farms,
producer of Prairie Ronde Rice. Their
long-grain rice is freshly milled and has
a distinct flavor that pairs well with a
variety of dishes.
prairieronderice.com
Jambalaya Girl’ s Jambalaya Rice Mix
is ideal for whipping up dinner at a
moment’s notice. Kristen Preau’s rice
mix was inspired by her dad’s recipe
and includes rice, seasonings, and
dehydrated vegetables, so all you have
to do is add protein and water. The
company also sells Gumbo Base with
Roux and Yellow Rice Seasoned Rice
Blend.
jambalayagirl.com
Eating red beans and rice on Mondays
is a New Orleans tradition. L.H. Hayward
and Company, the manufacturer of
Camellia Brand beans, has provided
home cooks with top-notch beans,
peas, and lentils for almost 100 years.
A creamy texture and excellent flavor
make their signature Red Kidney Beans
a staple in New Orleans’ kitchens.
camelliabrand.com

CAFÉ DU MONDE BEIGNET MIX BOSCOLI ITALIAN OLIVE SALAD

There’s nothing quite like Italian meats, cheese, and

biting into a freshly fried, olive salad stacked inside a
sugar-coated beignet at sesame seed loaf form the
Café du Monde. But if basis for the muffuletta, one
you can’t make it to New of New Orleans’ most iconic
Orleans anytime soon, you sandwiches. In 1992, the
can get a taste of these Boscoli family established their
delicacies at home with line of Creole Italian products,
the coffee stand’s Beignet including their signature item,
Mix. Each box makes Italian Olive Salad. In addition
4 dozen beignets, which to muffulettas, Boscoli’s olive
are delightful with a cup of salad is great as a salad or
café au lait. pizza topping.
shop.cafedumonde.com boscoli.com

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 74

 WINNERS

WAYNE JACOB'S KARY'S COMMUNITY COFFEE

SMOKED PORK ANDOUILLE ORIGINAL ROUX COFFEE & CHICORY

Andouille is an essential ingredient in
Cajun cuisine, adding smoky flavor to
gumbos, jambalayas, and more. The spicy
pork sausage has a rich history along
southeast Louisiana’s German Coast.
Some of the region’s finest andouille can
be found at Wayne Jacob’s Smokehouse
and Restaurant in LaPlace, where it is
made with hand-butchered pork and
smoked for hours with hardwood smoke.
wjsmokehouse.com
First, you make a roux. But if you don’t
have time to make one from scratch,
Kary’s Original Roux will do the trick.
Father-son team Archange and Kary
Lafleur started producing their ready-
made roux in 1975 after customers
asked to buy roux from their Ville Platte
restaurant. This dark roux is a timesaver
for making gumbos and étouffées.
karysroux.com
Norman “Cap” Saurage blended his
first batch of Community Coffee in
1919, and today, the family-owned
coffee brand remains a popular choice
for distinctive coffee blends, including
a local favorite: coffee and chicory.
Community Coffee remains a Louisiana
favorite and offers two ways to enjoy
this blend: bags of ground coffee and
boxes of single-serve pods.
communitycoffee.com

CRYSTAL HOT SAUCE ZYDECO CHOP CHOP

Crystal Hot Sauce has been adding Many Louisiana dishes start with
delicious flavor and subtle heat to the Holy Trinity: onion, celery, and
New Orleanians’ favorite dishes bell pepper. In 2014, Tim Bellard
for almost a century. Crystal Hot started packaging a dehydrated
Sauce was started in 1923 by version of the trinity called
Alvin Baumer, whose son and Zydeco Chop Chop, which is
grandson run the company ready to add to traditional Cajun
today. Crystal has a sweet, and Creole recipes. Made with
balanced flavor, making it the a combination of dehydrated
perfect addition to gumbos, bell peppers, celery, onions,
red beans and rice, and garlic, and parsley, Zydeco Chop
countless other dishes. Chop makes cooking easy and
crystalhotsauce.com delicious.
zydecochopchop.com

75 louisianacookin.com
 WINNERS

TONY CHACHERE'S JAY D'S LOUISIANA STEEN'S

ORIGINAL CREOLE SEASONING MOLASSES MUSTARD 100% PURE CANE SYRUP

No Louisiana spice rack would be
complete without a can of Tony
Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning.
Tony Chachere began to manufacture
his eponymous seasoning blend in
1972, and it has been a staple in
Louisiana and beyond ever since. Today,
the brand has expanded to include bold
and no-salt blends, salad dressings,
dinner mixes, and more.
tonychachere.com
Sweet, tangy, and slightly spicy, Jay
D’s Louisiana Molasses Mustard
hits all the right notes. Made with a
combination of Louisiana sugar cane
molasses, hot sauce, and mustard, the
signature sauce from Baton Rouge
food blogger and radio personality Jay
Ducote is extremely versatile. Try it on
sandwiches, salad dressings, marinades,
and grilled meats.
jayducote.com/shop
C.S. Steen Syrup Mill has been making
cane syrup in Abbeville since 1910,
and the yellow Steen’s cans and bottles
can be found in most pantries in south
Louisiana. The dark, thick, slightly bitter
syrup is a favorite for drizzling over
cornbread and French toast or baking
into a gâteau de sirop (syrup cake).
steenssyrup.com

LOUISIANA CRAWFISH CO. SEAFOOD BOIL BULLDOG PEPPER JELLY

Crawfish, crab, and shrimp S

Sisters Kim White and Cindy
boils are a fixture of Louisiana Anders founded Bulldog
A
spring and summertime. Pepper Jelly from their family
P
Down here, we season our ffarm in central Louisiana,
pots with “seafood boil,” where they are inspired by the
w
a powdered mix of spices bbounty of fresh ingredients.
and seasonings. There are a Bulldog Pepper Jelly is
B
variety of seafood boils out aavailable in six flavors that
there, but Louisiana Crawfish aare just as tasty served with
Co. is one of our favorites. ccream cheese and crackers
The company also ships live aas they are in glazes, salad
crawfish, frozen crawfish tails, ddressings, and desserts.
and more. bbulldogpepperjelly.com
lacrawfish.com

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 76

 20YEARS OF

AS WE CELEBRATE OUR 20TH CLASS OF LOUISIANA COOKIN’

CHEFS TO WATCH, WE LOOK BACK AT THE PROGRAM’S BEGINNINGS
AND TURN AN EYE TOWARD THE FUTURE

Louisiana Cookin’ introduced bringing their passion and ingenuity to the

In 2002, its first class of Chefs to
Watch. Over the past two decades, we have
identified more than 100 up-and-coming
chefs who have made an impact on their
communities and redefined Louisiana cuisine
with their diverse viewpoints and devotion to
their craft.
Today, we’re proud to celebrate our 20th
class of Chefs to Watch, and we look forward
to watching the new generation of chefs
state’s ever-evolving culinary scene. We hope
you’ve enjoyed getting to know more about
these chefs throughout the years and continue
to support them now more than ever. In
honor of this milestone, we caught up with a
few Chefs to Watch alumni to talk about their
experiences as Chefs to Watch, what makes
Louisiana such an incredible place to cook
and eat, and some of the recipes they like to
make at home.

77 louisianacookin.com Scenes from our 2019 Chefs to Watch Awards Dinner at Galatoire’s in New Orleans.
BRIAN LANDRY THEN: Executive chef at Galatoire’s
NOW: Chef/owner of QED Hospitality
CHEF TO WATCH 2009

What did it mean to you to be named a Chef to Watch? Being recognized for
individual talent in a building steeped in history and with its own impressive set
of accolades was a true vote of confidence. At the time, I had been executive chef
of Galatoire’s for three years. There are certain restaurants that feel like they are a
permanent part of the fabric of the city. Galatoire’s is certainly one of them.

What excites you the most about Louisiana’s culinary scene today? Creole cuisine is
ever-evolving, and we are seeing that in so many of the restaurants in New Orleans today. The
cuisine has always adopted the traditions and techniques of the cultures that have settled in
southern Louisiana and incorporated them into the local food culture.

THEN: Executive chef at Village Café

jeremy conner NOW: Executive chef/partner at
CHEF TO WATCH 2014 Spoonbill Watering Hole & Restaurant

What are the main ways Louisiana’s culinary culture has helped you grow as
a chef? I began a career in cooking in northwest Florida, and most menus there
included a strong Louisiana (usually New Orleans) influence. When I moved
to Lafayette and began working in Louisiana restaurants, I was so much closer
to the authentic genesis of some of the food I’d come up cooking. It fired me up.
There’s such a unique heartiness and a feel-good nature to Louisiana’s various cuisines
and an ever-present appreciation for quality, but the joie de vivre and hospitable nature of *Try Jeremy’s recipe
our food is what I love most. for Chicken and
Sausage Gumbo on
What excites you the most about Louisiana’s culinary scene today? Louisiana’s culinary scene page 81.
as of late is so much more vibrant. Eateries tend to be more relaxed, which is always fun, and
the greater inclusion of chefs from all backgrounds makes us all better cooks.

Meg bickford THEN: Executive chef at Café Adelaide

NOW: Executive chef at Commander’s Palace
CHEF TO WATCH 2017

What excites you most about Louisiana’s culinary scene today? Louisiana has
such an interesting history with a beautiful mix of cultures and influences. The
fact that our cuisine continues to evolve as our influences continue to change is
exciting! The new generation of chefs in Louisiana right now are inspiring young
people doing really creative things.

How has your cooking style evolved since you were named a Chef to Watch? I have
had the opportunity to continue to explore our unique cuisine. My connection to Cajun and
Creole cooking is very strong, and as I continue to evolve as a chef, I have been able to dig
deeper and create more thoughtful, feminine versions of the food I love to cook.

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 78

 THEN and NOW: Chef/owner of Toups’ Meatery
isaac toups
CHEF TO WATCH 2014

What has been your proudest moment as a chef? It’s funny because my proudest
moment isn’t about cooking at all. It’s getting honored with the Ella Brennan
humanitarian award at NOWFE this year for the work my wife, Amanda, and I
did helping feed folks during [the pandemic]. We did it because we would never
let anyone go hungry, but it filled my heart to be honored for it.

What did it mean to you to be named a Chef to Watch? My restaurant had only
been open a couple of years, so it was really encouraging to see that what I set out to do
was actually working. Being named a Chef to Watch certainly validated that I was doing
something right!

lyle broussard THEN and NOW: Executive chef at

Jack Daniel’s Bar & Grill at L’Auberge Lake Charles
CHEF TO WATCH 2016

How has your cooking style changed since you were named a Chef to Watch?
When you meet some of the other guys who are doing that, it kind of opens your
mind up to their perspectives, especially since y’all gather people from all over
the state. It changed a lot. It made me look a lot outside the box and outside of my
area, outside of southwest Louisiana, to see what those guys were doing. And a lot of
them were really great, too.

What are the main ways Louisiana’s culinary culture has helped you grow as a chef? The
culture is old and yet you can still put your own twist on it and still keep with traditions.
And that’s what helps me grow. And then [there’s] a lot of outside influences. Going places,
and some of the new stuff I see when I do go places, we add that to some of our Louisiana
dishes—not too much. And then Louisiana itself. There’s so much about it.

paige lucas THEN and NOW: Chef/owner of

Pork Belly’s Bar and Grill
CHEF TO WATCH 2019

Do you have a favorite memory from Chefs to Watch? My dinner was at

Galatoire’s, so to be able to walk into the kitchen there, and then, of course,
for Chef Colt [Patin] to be the one to announce my name to walk up. He was
basically like my mentor in school [at the Louisiana Culinary Institute]. I forgot
how he said it, but you know, “Proud to present Paige Lucas walking out as a
former student,” that was nice.
What are the main ways Louisiana’s culinary culture has helped you grow as a chef?
Helping out another [Louisiana] native or helping out a little business, that’s just the small-
town, Southern culture. That’s bred in us. That’s in our blood, to help one another. Having
the [Louisiana Culinary Institute] on my side, having certain members of the [Louisiana]
Seafood Board on my side, has definitely helped me and my business out tremendously. You
know, just supporting one another . . . I think Louisiana does that pretty well.

79 louisianacookin.com
Michael Gulotta THEN: Chef de Cuisine at Restaurant August
NOW: Chef/partner of Maypop and MOPHO
CHEF TO WATCH 2013

What did it mean to you to be named a Chef to Watch? Being named a Chef
to Watch was a breakthrough moment for me, as I was running someone else’s
kitchen at the time. It gave me the confidence to push forward and trust in my
ability to run a kitchen and business of my own.

How has your cooking style evolved since you were named a Chef to Watch? Well, I
was cooking classical French/New Orleans cuisine when I received this honor. Now, I’m
a partner in two restaurants that blend the Mississippi Delta with the Mekong Delta. So, I’d
say it has evolved a whole lot. The important thing has always been to make sure the food
remains authentic, even if it isn’t traditional.

12 ounces dry gnocchietti or fusilli

pasta, boiled in salted water and
tossed lightly with olive oil
12 ounces peeled crawfish tails*
1 cup sliced green onion
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan
cheese, to serve

1. In a large sauté pan, heat oil over

CRAWFISH ÉTOUFFÉE
CURRY PASTA
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Recipe courtesy of Chef Michael
Gulotta, MOPHO and Maypop,
New Orleans
Traditionally the word étouffée means
to smother or braise. This is a lighter
version of a typically roux-based sauce
that brings all of the same flavors
without the heaviness.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil (bacon
fat can be substituted to add a
little smokiness)
1 medium shallot, minced
medium-high heat until wisps of smoke
form. Add shallot, bell pepper, and
jalapeño; cook until they start to brown,
about 4 minutes. Add celery, garlic,
ginger, tomato, lemongrass, and bay
leaf to the pan. Simmer for 4 minutes.
Stir in sherry, and cook for 2 to
3 minutes, scraping browned bits from
bottom of pan with a wooden spoon.
(Be careful, as it may flame a bit.) Add
coconut milk, shellfish stock, butter,
fish sauce, and lemon zest; reduce heat
to medium-low, and simmer for about
1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced 5 minutes. Season with salt and hot
½ jalapeño, small diced sauce.
1 stalk celery, diced 2. To serve, toss pasta, crawfish tails,
2 cloves garlic, sliced and green onion with the hot étouffée
1 tablespoon ginger, minced sauce and let simmer for 1 minute (any
1 small vine-ripened tomato, diced longer and the crawfish tails will start
½ stalk lemongrass, thinly sliced to get tough). Toss a few more times.
1 bay leaf Serve with a generous amount of
1 ounce sherry Parmesan and a squeeze of lemon.
1½ cups coconut milk Swap Option: This pasta
½ cup shellfish stock can be made with shrimp
*If using frozen crawfish tails, thaw,
2 ounces butter or crabmeat when
drain, and rinse them before using.
4 dashes fish sauce crawfish is out of season.
Zest of 1 lemon Swap Option: This pasta can be made
1½ teaspoons kosher salt, or to taste with shrimp or crabmeat when crawfish
Hot sauce, to taste is out of season.

Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021 80

“When I cook at home, I like to
make things that are favorites for
my family and can be prepared
simply and quickly. Gumbo is
certainly a favorite, and I’ve
developed my go-to restaurant
recipe into something that’s quick
and easy for the home kitchen.
Even better, it’s adaptable for your
current motivation level.
This is a chicken and sausage
gumbo recipe, and I like to start by
boiling a whole chicken. Options
for using boneless chicken thighs
are listed in the recipe. Also, if
you want to make a dark roux
from scratch, go for it (hog lard
is the best choice of fat for flavor
purposes), but a jarred roux is
just fine. (Yes, really. No shame, no
judgment. I prefer Savoie’s brand
old-fashioned dark roux.)”
—JEREMY CONNER

CHICKEN AND SAUSAGE
GUMBO
MAKES 6 QUARTS
Recipe courtesy of Chef Jeremy
Conner, Spoonbill Watering Hole
& Restaurant, Lafayette
1 whole fryer chicken, cut up
(or 2 pounds boneless chicken
thighs, trimmed)
3 pounds Cajun smoked sausage,
sliced about 3⁄8 inch thick
(I prefer Rabideaux’s from Iowa,
Louisiana, but use what you like.)
3 medium yellow onions, small
diced
8 to 10 cloves garlic, minced
2 to 3 tablespoons Cajun seasoning
(Use your favorite but watch salt
level. I use Bruneaux’s Bon Cajun
Seasoning from Iota, Louisiana.)
1 to 1½ cups dark roux (The actual
amount depends on thickness
preference.)
Hot sauce, to taste (I prefer
TABASCO® Family Reserve.)
Hot cooked white rice and thinly
sliced green onions, to serve
1. In an 8- to 10-quart pot (I prefer
Magnalite), place chicken and water
to cover; bring to a boil, reduce heat,
and simmer until chicken is cooked
all the way through and meat is
easily removed from bones, about
1 hour, maybe a little more. Carefully
remove chicken from broth and set
aside to cool. Reserve broth for later
use. When chicken is cool enough
to handle, carefully pull meat from
bones and carcass. Set aside for later
use.
2. In an 8- to 10-quart pot, cook
sausage over medium heat, stirring
often, until some fat renders and
sausage begins to get a little crispy
at edges. Remove sausage using a
slotted spoon, reserving drippings
in pot. In same pot, add onion; cook
until onion is very soft and has almost
no texture remaining. Add garlic
and cook for 1 minute. Add Cajun
seasoning and cook for 1 minute. Add
reserved chicken to pot. (See note.)
Carefully stir in roux so you don’t
shred your chicken up.
3. Add reserved chicken broth, a
little at a time, and gently stir to
incorporate before adding more. (You
want a total of about 4 quarts; add
broth and then water to make up any
difference.) Once all liquid is in the
pot, add a few drops of hot sauce;
bring to a boil and then reduce heat
and simmer for at least 1 hour. (If you
plan to simmer longer, cover the pot
at least partially to prevent too much
evaporation.) Serve over white rice
with green onions and your favorite
hot sauce.
Note: If using boneless thighs, add
chicken after stirring in Cajun seasoning,
and cook until chicken is fully cooked,
about 8 minutes. If using boneless
chicken, you can use 2 quarts store-
bought chicken broth or chicken base
(such as Better Than Bouillon) and water.

81 louisianacookin.com
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 S W E E TS

PUMPKIN SPICE
photography by jim bathie | recipe development by becca cummins | food styling by kathleen kanen | styling by lucy finney

THE FIRST SIGNS of fall send many of us into a craze for all things pumpkin-flavored. This year, we’re thinking
beyond pumpkin spice coffees and pumpkin pie by putting a spin on New Orleans’ fried dough specialty, beignets.
These beignets get a double dose of pumpkin flavor with a creamy pumpkin filling that gets piped into the center and
a dusting of confectioners’ sugar and pumpkin pie spice. They’re the perfect way to celebrate the season.

PUMPKIN SPICE BEIGNETS
MAKES ABOUT 24
This recipe offers a seasonal twist on
beignets with a creamy pumpkin filling.
½ cup warm water (105° to 110°)
1½ teaspoons active dry yeast
¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon granulated
sugar, divided
½ cup boiling water
½ cup evaporated milk
2 tablespoons unsalted butter,
melted
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 large egg
4¼ cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
Canola or vegetable oil, for frying
Pumpkin Cream Filling (recipe
follows)
Garnish: confectioners’ sugar,
pumpkin pie spice
1. In a small bowl, stir together ½ cup
warm water, yeast, and 1 teaspoon
granulated sugar. Let stand until
foamy, about 5 minutes.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer,
whisk together ½ cup boiling water,
evaporated milk, melted butter,
salt, vanilla, and remaining ¼ cup
granulated sugar by hand. Whisk in
yeast mixture and egg. Add flour and
pumpkin pie spice. Using the dough
hook attachment, beat at low speed
until dough comes together, starts
to get smooth and soft, and forms a
ball at base of dough hook, 6 to
7 minutes, stopping to scrape sides
of bowl. (Dough should stick to your
fingers when you touch it but release
after you pull away. Dough will still
stick to bottom and sides of bowl.)
3. Spray a large bowl with cooking
spray. Place dough in bowl, turning to
grease top. Cover and refrigerate for
at least 2 hours or up to overnight.
4. In a large Dutch oven, pour oil
to a depth of 2 inches, and heat
over medium heat until a deep-fry
thermometer registers 350°.
5. Divide dough in half. On a heavily
floured surface, roll half of dough
into a 13x10-inch rectangle (about
¼ inch thick). (Cover and refrigerate
remaining dough.) Cut dough into
3-inch squares, and separate them
so they do not stick back together;
discard scraps.
6. Place 2 to 3 squares at a time in
hot oil; when settled on top of oil,
immediately turn. Fry until golden
brown, 1 to 2 minutes per side.
Carefully remove from hot oil, and
let drain on paper towels. Let cool
completely. Repeat procedure with
remaining dough. Using a small paring
knife, make a hole in the side of each
cooled beignet; using a small wooden
skewer, hollow inside of each beignet.
7. Place Pumpkin Cream Filling in a
pastry bag fitted with a ¼-inch round
piping tip; pipe filling into beignets.
Garnish with confectioners’ sugar and
pie spice, if desired.
PUMPKIN CREAM FILLING
MAKES 3½ CUPS
12 ounces cream cheese, softened
¾ cup unsalted butter, softened
⅓ cup canned pumpkin
1½ teaspoons vanilla extract
1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
1⅓ cups confectioners’ sugar
1½ tablespoons heavy whipping
cream
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer
fitted with the paddle attachment,
beat cream cheese and butter at
medium-low speed until smooth
and creamy, about 1 minute. Beat
in pumpkin, vanilla, and pie spice.
With mixer on low speed, gradually
add confectioners’ sugar, beating
until combined. Add cream, and beat
at medium speed until smooth and
fluffy, about 1 minute.

83 louisianacookin.com
Q U I C K & E ASY

FALL COMFORT
photography by jim bathie | recipe development by izzie turner | food styling by kathleen kanen | styling by lily simpson

AS SUMMER WINDS DOWN and fall calendars fill up, it’s nice to have an easy dinner recipe in your back
pocket for busy weeknights. That’s where this recipe for shrimp and grits comes in. With just a few ingredients, many
of which you may already have in your pantry or fridge, you’ll be on your way to a flavorful, satisfying dinner. The
shrimp are cooked with Creole seasoning, andouille sausage, and white wine and spooned over a bed of creamy grits.

SHRIMP AND GRITS WITH
WHITE WINE SAUCE
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
This elegant take on the comfort food
favorite features a creamy white wine
sauce.
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 cup chopped andouille sausage
¼ cup chopped sweet onion
¼ cup chopped red bell pepper
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1½ teaspoons Creole seasoning
1 pound peeled and deveined
medium or large fresh shrimp
(tails left on)
½ cup dry white wine
¼ cup crème fraîche
Stone-Ground Grits (recipe follows)
Garnish: chopped fresh parsley
1. In a medium skillet, melt butter
over medium heat. Add andouille,
and cook until crisp, 7 to 10 minutes.
Add sweet onion, bell pepper, garlic,
and Creole seasoning; cook until
vegetables are tender, 5 to 7 minutes.
Increase heat to medium-high, and
add shrimp and wine. Cook until
shrimp are pink and firm and wine
is reduced by half, 4 to 5 minutes.
Remove from heat. Gently stir in
crème fraîche. Serve with Stone-
Ground Grits. Garnish with parsley,
if desired.
STONE-GROUND GRITS
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS
3 cups milk
1 cup water
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 cup stone-ground white grits
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1. In a medium saucepan, bring milk,
1 cup water, and salt to a boil over
medium-high heat. Gradually whisk
in grits. Cook, whisking constantly,
until grits and liquid have been
incorporated, 2 to 3 minutes. Reduce
heat to medium, and simmer until
grits are tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
Stir in butter until melted and
combined. Serve immediately.

COVER
RECIPE
 www.laeggs.com
Louisiana Department of
Agriculture & Forestry
HI-RES IMAGE
Mike Strain, DVM Commissioner

Egg & Potato Skillet

Prep Time: 5 minutes | Cook Time: 15 minutes | Makes: 6 servings

INGREDIENTS 2. Pour eggs over mixture in skillet. As eggs begin to set,

4 thick slices turkey bacon (4 oz.), chopped gently pull the eggs across the pan with an inverted turner,
1 medium baking potato, diced (1⁄2-inch) forming large, soft curds. Continue cooking—pulling, lifting
8 EGGS, beaten and folding eggs—until thickened and no visible liquid egg
1⁄2 cup pico de gallo OR chunky salsa remains. Do not stir constantly.
1⁄2 cup shredded smoked Cheddar cheese (2 oz.) 3. Stir in pico de gallo; heat through. Sprinkle with cheese.
6 flour OR whole wheat tortillas (8-inch), Serve with tortillas, if desired.
warmed, OPTIONAL
ENJOY
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Cook bacon in large nonstick skillet over medium heat until
edges begin to brown. Pour off drippings. Add potato; cook
and stir until potato is tender and browned and bacon is crisp,
6 to 8 minutes.
LO CAL PAN T RY

RICE & EASY

photography by jim bathie | recipe development by leah rasbury
food styling by kathleen kanen | styling by lily simpson

THE IMPORTANCE OF RICE to Cajun and
Creole cuisine cannot be understated. The grain
has long been an essential ingredient of Louisiana
cooking, appearing in nearly all of our most beloved
dishes. Rice is served with gumbo, crawfish étouffée,
red beans, and gravies. It’s the main ingredient
in jambalaya and dirty rice, and it’s a crucial
component of boudin.
Southwestern Louisiana is the primary region
for rice production and milling in the state.
Louisiana’s rice industry took off in the 19th century,
and today, the state is the third-largest producer of
rice in the United States. The town of Crowley is
known as the Rice Capital of America and is home to
the oldest family-run rice mill in the country, Falcon
Rice Mill.
Versatile and easy to cook, rice remains
synonymous with Louisiana cuisine. Whether
enjoyed in gumbo or jambalaya or used to create
exciting takes on recipes for arancini and rice
pudding, rice gives a distinct taste to many of our
favorite dishes.
BANANAS FOSTER ½ cup firmly packed light brown
RICE PUDDING sugar
MAKES 8 SERVINGS 3 tablespoons spiced rum
2 ripe bananas, sliced crosswise
A rum-spiked bananas Foster about ¼ inch thick
topping makes this traditional dessert ½ cup chopped toasted walnuts
completely decadent.
1. In a medium stockpot, bring
2¼ cups water 2¼ cups water, rice, granulated sugar,
1½ cups jasmine rice 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon salt,
½ cup granulated sugar and cinnamon to a boil over medium-
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon unsalted high heat. Reduce heat to medium;
butter, divided cover and simmer until rice is tender
1¼ teaspoons kosher salt, divided and water is absorbed, 10 to 11 minutes.
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2. Stir milk and 1⅔ cups cream into
3 cups whole milk rice mixture, and bring to a boil
1⅔ cups plus ¼ cup heavy whipping over medium-high heat. Reduce
cream, divided heat to medium, and cook, stirring
1¼ teaspoons vanilla extract, divided frequently, until thickened and
creamy, 20 to 22 minutes. Remove
from heat, and stir in 1 teaspoon
vanilla.
Louisiana Cookin’ | September/October 2021
3. Meanwhile, in a medium skillet,
melt remaining ¼ cup butter over
medium heat. Add brown sugar,
rum, remaining ¼ cup cream, and
remaining ¼ teaspoon salt; cook,
stirring constantly, until sugar dissolves
and bubbles form around edges of
pan, about 2 minutes. (Do not boil.)
Add bananas, and cook, stirring
frequently, until bananas are heated
through and bubbles form around
edges of pan, about 3 minutes. (Do
not boil.) Remove from heat, and stir
in remaining ¼ teaspoon vanilla. Serve
pudding with sauce and walnuts.
88
ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE
ARANCINI
MAKES 28
Chopped andouille sausage gives a little
Cajun flair to these Italian rice balls.
Vegetable oil, for frying
Andouille Sausage Risotto (recipe
follows), cold
2½ cups panko (Japanese bread
crumbs), divided
¾ cup grated fresh Parmesan
cheese
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
Creamy Herb Sauce (recipe on
page 95)
1. In a large Dutch oven, pour oil
to a depth of 3 inches, and heat
over medium heat until a deep-fry
thermometer registers 350°.
2. Line a large rimmed baking sheet
with paper towels.
3. In a large bowl, combine cold
Andouille Sausage Risotto, ½ cup
bread crumbs, and cheese.
4. In a shallow dish, place remaining
2 cups bread crumbs. In another
shallow dish, place eggs.
5. Shape risotto mixture into 1½-inch
balls (about 2 tablespoons each). Roll
balls in eggs; dredge in bread crumbs
to coat.
6. Working in batches, fry balls until
golden brown on all sides, 1½ to
2 minutes. (Let oil return to correct
temperature between batches.)
Using a slotted spoon, carefully
remove balls, and let drain on prepared
pan. Let stand for 2 minutes. Serve
immediately with Creamy Herb Sauce.
ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE RISOTTO
MAKES ABOUT 3½ CUPS
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup finely diced andouille
sausage (about 2 links)
¾ cup medium-grain rice
⅓ cup dry white wine
4 cups warm chicken broth, divided
2 ounces cream cheese, room
temperature
¼ cup minced green onion
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
1 tablespoon hot sauce
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon garlic paste*
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1. In a small Dutch oven, melt butter
with oil over medium heat. Add
andouille; cook, stirring occasionally,
until crisp, about 14 minutes. Using a
slotted spoon, remove andouille, and
let drain on paper towels, reserving
drippings in pot.
2. Add rice to pot, and cook over
medium heat, stirring constantly, until
lightly browned, 2 to 4 minutes. Add
wine, and cook, stirring constantly,
until liquid has evaporated, about
1 minute. Reduce heat to medium-
low, and add 1 cup warm broth. Cook
until bubbles form around edges of
pan (do not boil); simmer, stirring
frequently, until all liquid is absorbed,
about 9 minutes. Repeat procedure
with remaining 3 cups warm broth,
1 cup at a time, until rice is tender and
mixture is creamy.
3. Stir cream cheese into rice mixture
until melted and smooth. Remove
from heat, and stir in andouille,
green onion, thyme, hot sauce,
salt, pepper, garlic paste, and
Worcestershire. Spoon mixture onto a
large rimmed baking sheet. Cover and
refrigerate until completely cooled,
about 4 hours or up to overnight.
*We used Gourmet Garden™ Garlic
Stir-In Paste.
KITCHEN TIP: Risotto can be
made 1 day ahead.
 BY T H E BO O K

CREOLE FEAST
K
COOKBOO
S
CLA S S IC WHEN NATHANIEL BURTON AND RUDY LOMBARD first
published Creole Feast: Fifteen Master Chefs of New Orleans Reveal Their
Secrets in 1978, they shone a spotlight on the significant contributions of
Black chefs who were cooking in some of the city’s most famous restaurants.
Reprinted in 2020 by the University of New Orleans Press, Creole Feast is
a compendium of stories and recipes from celebrated chefs including Leah
Chase, Austin Leslie, Annie Laura Squalls, Louise Joshua, and Letitia Parker.
In his introduction, Rudy Lombard emphasizes the importance of
recognizing the role these chefs played in defining Creole cuisine. In the
original edition, the late civil rights activist and former Freedom Rider wrote,
“It is because of them that [New Orleans cuisine] exists today, and they are
the very best at what they do. Their cooking style encompasses a creative
improvisation not unlike that found among traditional New Orleans Black
jazz musicians.”
The first section of the book includes brief biographies as well as
stories and cooking tips from each chef. The second portion features a
comprehensive collection of Creole recipes, including appetizers, seafood,
“I HOPE [YOUNGER meats, vegetables, soups, sauces, egg dishes, breads, and desserts. Readers
will discover recipes for traditional dishes like oysters Rockefeller, trout
GENERATIONS] WILL amandine, shrimp Clemenceau, turtle soup, file gumbo, rémoulade sauce,
SEE HOW BLACK CHEFS bread pudding, and more.
The new edition begins with a foreword from the late Leah Chase, in
WORKED HARD TO which she shares why she felt the book needed to be reprinted: “[This book]
MAKE CREOLE COOKING showed people who was really behind the doors of all these big restaurants in
New Orleans. Creole Feast made you think about what we had done to make
IMPORTANT.” a difference in the city . . . I hope that younger generations will read Creole
—LEAH CHASE Feast, with pride and respect, and learn from it. I hope they will see how
Black chefs worked hard to make Creole cooking important.”
Creole Feast is packed with classic New Orleans recipes and tips for
achieving the best results, but it’s so much more than that. It is a tribute to
the chefs who made New Orleans cuisine what it is today.

91 louisianacookin.com
LEAH CHASE’S
SHRIMP CLEMENCEAU
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
Recipe adapted from Creole Feast
(University of New Orleans Press,
2020)
This recipe by Leah Chase is a staple at
Dooky Chase in New Orleans.
½ cup unsalted butter
2 medium potatoes, peeled and
diced small
2 pounds small shrimp (fresh or
uncooked, if frozen), peeled and
deveined
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
½ cup button mushrooms (fresh or
canned)
1 cup green peas (if fresh peas are
used, precook them)
¼ teaspoon chopped fresh parsley
⅓ cup white wine
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
¾ teaspoon ground black pepper
1. In a 2-quart saucepan over medium
heat, melt butter. Add potatoes and
cook until tender, 5 minutes. Add
shrimp, garlic, and mushrooms; cook
until shrimp are tender and pink,
2 to 3 minutes. Add peas, parsley,
wine, salt, and pepper; cook for about
5 minutes.
S W I Z Z L E ST I C K
THE
SLOW PROPHET
by laura bellucci
I CONCOCTED THE SLOW PROPHET when
I was hosting a cocktail book club at SoBou in the
French Quarter. Each month, we would read a book
that was based in New Orleans, and I would create a
cocktail inspired by the book. This one was inspired by
Michael Allen Zell’s noir detective novel Run Baby Run.
It has a bunch of fun, really colorful characters, and the
Slow Prophet is one of them. Sometimes the authors
would attend. Michael Allen Zell came to that book
club, and we had a blast just talking about the book and
drinking cocktails all night.
Laura Bellucci, a history fanatic, concept developer, and cocktail creator, has been working in the spirits industry for more than 10 years.
93 louisianacookin.com
For this particular book, I wanted to create a
cocktail that was definitively New Orleans. I also
wanted it to be dark and swirly because it was based on
a noir detective novel, which wouldn’t pair well with
something bright and sparkly. The Slow Prophet has
chicory and rosemary and blackberry—all things that
grow wild here—and a little bourbon and Bénédictine
to round it out.
Bénédictine itself has an interesting history. It
is an herbal, honeyed liqueur produced in France. It
was developed in the 19th century by wine merchant
Alexandre Le Grand, who found the recipe among
old medicinal recipes his family had acquired from a
religious foundation. The recipe was supposedly made
by the Benedictine Abbey of Fécamp in Normandy,
France, and he invented this lore that it had been
developed by Benedictine monks. In actuality, it’s just
a case of really excellent marketing. Giving it that
historic touch made people want to drink it more.
There’s just something so New Orleans about
drinking a bourbon and berry cocktail. It has a
bourbon sour quality, which makes it a drink you could
sip in the hot afternoon, like a julep. It’s the perfect
day-drinking beverage, especially as these late summer
days fade into fall.
THE SLOW PROPHET
MAKES 1 SERVING
Double straining this cocktail makes it
as smooth and velvety as possible.
3 fresh blackberries
1½ ounces bourbon
¾ ounce Rosemary Syrup
(recipe follows)
½ ounce fresh lemon juice
¼ ounce Bénédictine
Chicory bitters
Garnish: fresh rosemary sprig, fresh
blackberries, fresh lemon slice
1. In a cocktail shaker, place
blackberries, bourbon, Rosemary
Syrup, lemon juice, and Bénédictine;
muddle blackberries. Cover and shake
until combined. Double strain over
ice. Top with bitters. Garnish with
rosemary sprig, blackberries, and
lemon slice, if desired.
ROSEMARY SYRUP
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
4 to 5 fresh sprigs rosemary
1. In a small saucepan, stir together
sugar and 1 cup water over medium
heat, stirring frequently until sugar
dissolves.
2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan,
add water to a depth of 2 inches;
bring to a boil over high heat.
Carefully dip rosemary sprigs into
boiling water; dip into an ice water
bath to blanch. Transfer to syrup,
and let stand for 1 hour. Strain.
 INDEX &
R ESO U RC ES

Recipe Index
Appetizers
Andouille Sausage Arancini, 89 Stovetop Roux, 56 Pecan Soup, 64
Butternut Squash and Goat Cheese Seafood Shrimp and Corn Chowder, 64
Crostini, 71 Barbecue Shrimp Quenelles, 34 Dark Oyster Stew, 64

Beverages Crawfish Étouffée Curry Pasta, 80 Vegetables and Side Dishes

Rosemary Syrup, 94
The Slow Prophet, 94
Desserts
Apple Bourbon Bread Pudding, 72
Bananas Foster Rice Pudding, 88
Pumpkin Spice Beignets, 83
Pumpkin Cream Filling, 83
Spiked Whipped Cream, 72
Meat, Poultry, and Game
Peppery Pork Tenderloins with Mustard
Glaze, 71
Venison, Pork, Shrimp, and Mirliton
Casserole, 30
Sauces, Seasonings, and Condiments
Barbecue Sauce, 34
Champagne Vinaigrette, 71
Creamy Herb Sauce, 95
Garlic Purée, 34
Oven Roux, 56
BellaCopper
Solid Copper Heat
Diffusers &
Defroster Plates
Leah Chase’s Shrimp Clemenceau, 92
Shrimp and Grits with White Wine
Sauce, 85
Shrimp-Stuffed Mirlitons, 27
Soups and Stews
Amber Beef Stew, 63
Baked Potato Soup, 63
Chicken and Sausage Gumbo, 81
RESOURCES
Spillin’ the Beans: Photos courtesy of
Virgin Hotels (Commons Club, page
11); Millennial Park (page 13); Yakuza
House (page 15); Fedrico Villaseñor (The
Seventh Tap, page 15); Big Easy Bucha
(Big Easy Tepache, page 15); Paprika
Studios/James Collier (Mister Mao, page
17); Shreveport-Bossier Convention and
Tourist Bureau (Red River Revel, page
19); and Festivals Acadiens et Créoles
(page 19). Foodways: Photos courtesy
of Brennan’s Restaurant (exteriors,
courtyard, and menu, page 31; Owen
Brennan portrait, page 33); Chris
Granger (Caribbean Milk Punch, page
31; Ralph Brennan portrait, Chanteclair
Room, Sazerac, and Bananas Foster,
page 33); and Eugenia Uhl (Barbecue
Shrimp Quenelles, page 34). Chefs to
Watch: Page 50: Photos of Fonio Salad
and Shrimp and Fonio Grits courtesy
of Dakar Nola. The Louisiana Hot List:
Andouille Sausage Risotto, 89
Creamy Mirliton Gratin, 27
Herb Roasted Sweet Potatoes, 71
Mirliton Slaw, 26
Roasted Broccolini with Brown
Butter, 72
Roasted Squash Panzanella Salad, 21
Stone-Ground Grits, 85
Photos courtesy of Café du Monde
(page 74); Romney Caruso at Romney
Photography (Boscoli, page 74); Joseph
Vidrine (Wayne Jacob’s Smokehouse and
Restaurant, page 75); Kary’s Roux (page
75); Community Coffee Company (page
75); Zydeco Chop Chop (page 75); Tony
Chachere’s (page 76); C.S. Steen Syrup
Mill (Steen’s Cane Syrup, page 76);
and Louisiana Crawfish Co. (page 76).
20 Years of Chefs to Watch: Photos
courtesy of Randy Krause Schmidt (page
77); Andrea Behrends (Brian Landry, page
78); Denny Culbert (Jeremy Conner,
page 78, and Michael Gulotta, page
80); Chris Granger (Meg Bickford, page
78); Romero & Romero Photography
(Isaac Toups, page 79); Michael Gulotta
(Crawfish Étouffée Curry Pasta, page
80); and Jeremy Conner (Chicken and
Sausage Gumbo, page 81). Swizzle Stick,
page 93: Photo of Laura Bellucci courtesy
of Randy Krause Schmidt.

(from Local Pantry, page 89)

CREAMY HERB SAUCE

MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP

∙ Even heating - no hot spots!
∙ Fantastic as a defroster plate!
∙ They really work—copper
conducts heat better!
∙ A full ⅛th-inch-thick
∙ Since 2002
Order Online
BellaCopper.com
½ cup mayonnaise*
¼ cup sour cream
2 tablespoons minced green onion
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
2 cloves garlic, grated
1. In a small bowl, stir all ingredients
until well combined. Refrigerate in an
airtight container for up to 3 days.
*We used Blue Plate Mayonnaise.

95 louisianacookin.com
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 L AG N IAP P E

AS WE SETTLE into the cooler fall

months, home cooks all throughout the
Bayou State will be breaking out their
trusty gumbo pots. There are as many
ways to make gumbo as there are people
in Louisiana, and everyone has their
preferences on what ingredients to add
to the pot, how dark the roux should
be, and what should be served with it.
Whether you’re a fan of chicken and
sausage gumbo or seafood gumbo, there
is a recipe out there to suit your taste.
Visit louisianacookin.com for more of
our favorite gumbo recipes.