Wave parameters.

xls
Tools for a preliminary assessment of coastal problems and solutions

Sheet 1 computation of wave length (with and without current)

Sheet 2 computation of peak orbital velocities (horizontal and vertical) over the water depth; maximum orbital excurs

Sheet 3 computation of mass flux velocities over the water depth

Sheet 4 computation of water pressure over the water depth under wave crest and wave trough

Sheet 5 computation of wave asymmetry based on methods of Abreu-Ruessink; Isobe-Horikawa and Second order Sto
oblems and solutions

water depth; maximum orbital excursion

d wave trough

sobe-Horikawa and Second order Stokes

 1. Computation of wave length

INPUT VALUES IN RED

CALCULATED VALUES IN BLUE

Wave Period T 10 (s)

Water depth 10 (m)
Current velocity 1 (m/s)
Angle between wave direction and current 60 (degree) 0=following, 180=opposing

Wave length (by iteration) 98 (m) 86.4814499958

(vary cell B10 until cells D10 and E10 are equal)

Relative wave period Tr 10.5381552983 (s)

Computation wave length without current:

Deep water wave length 156.2101910828 (m)

Method Hunt
Depth Wave length L Y kh
(m) (m) (-) (-)
500 156.21 20.101 20.101
100 155.88 4.020 4.029
75 155.01 3.015 3.039
50 150.81 2.010 2.082
25 130.33 1.005 1.205
10 92.37 0.402 0.680
5 67.68 0.201 0.464
4 60.98 0.161 0.412
3 53.26 0.121 0.354
2 44.25 0.080 0.284
1 33.48 0.040 0.188
 lowing, 180=opposing

86.5632558893

Method Nielsen
Hunt
(not valid for deeper water > 50 m)
k Y kh k Wave length L
(1/m) (-) (-) (1/m) (m)
0.040 20.101 75.602 0.151 41.53
0.040 4.020 4.348 0.043 144.44
0.041 3.015 3.095 0.041 152.19
0.042 2.010 2.068 0.041 151.80
0.048 1.005 1.201 0.048 130.70
0.068 0.402 0.680 0.068 92.42
0.093 0.201 0.464 0.093 67.69
0.103 0.161 0.412 0.103 60.97
0.118 0.121 0.354 0.118 53.16
0.142 0.080 0.287 0.144 43.70
0.188 0.040 0.202 0.202 31.11
 2. Computation of orbital velocities using linear wave theory

INPUT VALUES IN RED

CALCULATED VALUES IN BLUE

Water depth h 10 (m)

Wave period T 10 (s)
Wave height H 3 (m)

wave length L 92.3746 (m)

Y 0.4020 (-)
kh 0.6798 (-)
k 0.0680 (1/m)

z Umax Wmax
Level below surface Peak horizontal velocity peak vertical velocity
(m) (m/s) (m/s)
0 1.593 -0.942
-1 1.532 -0.836
-1.5 1.505 -0.784
-2 1.479 -0.733
-3 1.433 -0.635
-4 1.393 -0.539
-5 1.359 -0.445
-6 1.332 -0.354
-7 1.311 -0.264
-8 1.296 -0.175
-9 1.287 -0.087
-10 1.284 0.000
-11 1.287 0.087
-12 1.296 0.175
ing linear wave theory

Amax
Peak horizontal excursion
(m)
2.536
2.440
2.396
2.355
2.281
2.218
2.164
2.121
2.088
2.064
2.050
2.045
2.050
2.064
 3. Computation of mass flux velocities based on Stokes

INPUT VALUES IN RED

CALCULATED VALUES IN BLUE

D e p th b e l o w s u rfa c e (m )
Water depth h 10 (m)
wave period T 10 (s)
Wave height H 3 (m)

Wave length L 92.3745843377 (m) 0

-1
Y 0.4020224261 (-)
-2
kh 0.6798406775 (-) -3
k 0.0679840678 (1/m) -4
-5
-6
-7 Stokes d
k 0.0679840678 (1/m) -8 Stokes d

kh 0.6798406775 (-) -9
-10
-0.05 0 0.05 0.1
Drift velocity (m/s)

z STOKES drift velocity STOKES drift velocity

level below surface in unbounded domain in bounded domain
(- = seaward: + landward) (- = seaward: + landward)
(m) (m/s) (m/s)
0 0.185350636 0.0658915365
-1 0.164913683 0.0454545835
-2 0.1475302443 0.0280711448
-3 0.132878451 0.0134193516
-4 0.120687013 0.0012279135
-5 0.1107301955 -0.008728904
-6 0.1028236399 -0.0166354596
-7 0.0968209496 -0.0226381498
-8 0.09261098 -0.0268481195
-8.5 0.0911526525 -0.028306447
-9 0.0901157797 -0.0293433198
-9.5 0.0894955675 -0.029963532
-10 0.0892891482 -0.0301699512
on Stokes

D e p th b e l o w s u rfa c e (m )
0
-1
-2
-3
-4 Stoke s drift (bounded d

-5 Longuet-Higgins strea m

-6
Stokes drift (unbounded domain)
Stokes drift (bounded domain) -7
-8
-9
0.05 0.1 0.15 0.2
-10
Drift velocity (m/s)
-0.1 -0.05 0 0.05velocity (m/s)
Drift 0.1 0

z LONGUET-HIGGENS
level below surface Term0 Term1 Term2 Term3 total drift velocity
terms required for column K (- = seaward: + landward)
(m) (m/s)
0 0.0892891 3.5758473 0.6183507 -4.256836 -0.005592868
-1 0.0892891 3.3469622 0.3281139 -4.214267 -0.0481439221
-2 0.0892891 3.1522752 0.1526095 -4.086562 -0.0697953247
-3 0.0892891 2.9881814 0.0324017 -3.87372 -0.076175908
-4 0.0892891 2.8516426 -0.055708 -3.575742 -0.0696283768
-5 0.0892891 2.7401305 -0.117784 -3.192627 -0.0509198279
-6 0.0892891 2.6515805 -0.152609 -2.724375 -0.0201261188
-7 0.0892891 2.5843529 -0.15769 -2.170986 0.0228291557
-8 0.0892891 2.5372031 -0.13256 -1.532461 0.0778763883
-8.5 0.0892891 2.5208704 -0.109256 -1.181272 0.1098562019
-9 0.0892891 2.5092579 -0.079273 -0.808799 0.1447543564
-9.5 0.0892891 2.5023118 -0.042865 -0.415041 0.1825432318
-10 0.0892891 2.5 0 0 0.2232228706
 Stok es drift (bounded doma in)
Longue t-Higgins s treaming

0.05velocity (m/s)
Drift 0.1 0.15 0.2 0.25
 4. Water pressure under waves (linear wave theory)

INPUT VALUES IN RED

CALCULATED VALUES IN BLUE

Water depth h 10 (m) Y

Wave height H 3 (m) kh
Wave period T 10 (s) k
Gravity acceleration 10 (m/s2) Wave length L
Depth below S WL (m )

Dep th b elo w S W L (m )
1
0 Dynamic pressure
Static pressure
-1 0
Total pressure
-1
-2 CREST
-2
-3
-3
-4
-4
-5
-5
-6 -6
-7 -7
-8 -8
-9 -9

-10 -10
0 20000 40000 60000 80000 100000 120000 -40000 -20000 0 2000
Pressure (N/m2) Pre

CREST
Depth below
mean surface Pressure
z Pdynamic Pstatic Ptotal
(m) (N/m2) (N/m2) (N/m2)
1 0 0 0
0 15000 0 15000
-1 14431.1096363264 10000 24431.10964
-2 13928.9431510983 20000 33928.94315
-3 13491.1787203976 30000 43491.17872
-4 13115.7922905375 40000 53115.79229
-5 12801.0482196205 50000 62801.04822
-6 12545.4912525995 60000 72545.49125
-7 12347.9397927414 70000 82347.93979
 -8 12207.4804383795 80000 92207.48044
-9 12123.4637596969 90000 102123.4638
-10 12095.5012960143 100000 112095.5013
e theory)

0.40202 (-)
0.67984 (-)
0.06798 (1/m)
92.37458 (m)
Dep th b elo w S W L (m )

D ep th b elo w S W L (m )
0
1
-1 Dynamic pressure Column T
Static pressure Dynamic
-2 Total pressure pressure
0
-3
TROUGH Surface region
-4
-1
-5
-6
-7 -2

-8
-9 -3
-20000 -10000 0 10000 20000 3
-10
Pressure (N/m2)
-40000 -20000 0 20000 40000 60000 80000 100000 120000
Pressure (N/m2)

TROUGH
Depth below
mean surface Pressure
z Pdynamic Pstatic Ptotal
(m) (N/m2) (N/m2) (N/m2)

-1 -14431.109636326 10000 -4431.10963633

-2 -13928.943151098 20000 6071.0568489 Additional lines in plots
-3 -13491.178720398 30000 16508.8212796
-4 -13115.792290538 40000 26884.2077095 -20000
-5 -12801.048219621 50000 37198.9517804 30000
-6 -12545.4912526 60000 47454.5087474
-7 -12347.939792741 70000 57652.0602073 0
 -8 -12207.48043838 80000 67792.5195616 30000
-9 -12123.463759697 90000 77876.5362403
-10 -12095.501296014 100000 87904.498704

WAVE CREST
WAVE TROUGH

Dynamic pressure Dynamic pressure

Static pressure Static pressure

Total pressure Total pressure

 Column T
Dynamic
pressure

rface region

10000 0 10000 20000 30000

Pressure (N/m2)

Additional lines in plots

-1
-1

-1
 -3

WAVE TROUGH

Static pressure

Total pressure
 5. Computation of wave asymmetry based on methods of Abreu-Ruessink;
Stokes

INPUT VALUES IN RED

CALCULATED VALUES IN BLUE

Method Abreu et al. Based on Hrms (Coastal Engineering 2010)

Wave height Hrms 1 (m)

Water depth h 2 (m)

Velocity (m/s)
2.5
Wave period T 7 (s)
2
Y 0.1640908 (-)
kh= 0.416516 (-) 1.5
k= 0.208258 (1/m)
Wave length L = 30.154902 m 1

0.5
sigmau= 0.7421562 (m)
sigma-U (squared) 0.5507958 (m2) 0
Ur= 1.5239017 (m/s) 0 50 100 150
r= 0.6124043 (-) -0.5
P= -0.858756 (radians)
P= -49.22806 (degrees) -1
Method Abreu-Ruessink
H= -0.25892 Column B
-1.5
F= 0.7905448
Uw= 1.4754807 (m/s) -2
computed parameter -0.25892
-0.25892

Time Velocity Ursel number r f phi

(s) (m/s)
0 -0.503467 0.001 0.0001586311 1 -90
0.05 -0.430917 0.01 0.0045732548 0.9999895 -90
0.1 -0.352731 0.02 0.012474138 0.9999222 -90
0.15 -0.268839 0.03 0.0222818144 0.9997517 -89.99999
0.2 -0.179243 0.04 0.0334354263 0.9994409 -89.99987
0.25 -0.084035 0.05 0.0455777775 0.9989608 -89.9991
0.3 0.0165933 0.06 0.0584473083 0.9982905 -89.99631
0.35 0.1223284 0.07 0.0718394918 0.9974162 -89.98934
0.4 0.2327241 0.08 0.0855888133 0.9963305 -89.97541
0.45 0.3471885 0.09 0.0995588744 0.9950317 -89.95161
0.5 0.4649762 0.1 0.1136362781 0.9935224 -89.91514
0.55 0.5851862 0.2 0.2458183374 0.9693159 -88.54124
0.6 0.7067663 0.4 0.4171632062 0.9088316 -81.60208
0.65 0.8285267 0.6 0.5025617582 0.8645413 -73.5617
0.7 0.9491615 0.8 0.548769108 0.835974 -66.45182
0.75 1.0672802 1 0.5763968488 0.8171699 -60.51053
0.8 1.1814472 2 0.6272236746 0.7788392 -42.40181
0.85 1.2902278 4 0.6473887813 0.7621599 -27.94108
 0.9 1.3922382 6 0.6526785292 0.757635 -21.57489
0.95 1.4861964 8 0.6549419688 0.7556792 -17.89373
1 1.5709697 10 0.6561514762 0.7546292 -15.45523
1.05 1.6456157
1.1 1.7094133
1.15 1.7618828
1.2 1.8027916
1.25 1.8321487
1.3 1.8501873
1.35 1.8573381
1.4 1.8541972
1.45 1.8414899
1.5 1.8200338
1.55 1.7907041
1.6 1.7544014
1.65 1.7120244
1.7 1.6644476
1.75 1.6125041
1.8 1.5569726
1.85 1.4985699
1.9 1.4379458
1.95 1.3756819
2 1.3122927
2.05 1.2482277
2.1 1.1838756
2.15 1.1195689
2.2 1.0555886
2.25 0.9921695
2.3 0.9295054
2.35 0.8677537
2.4 0.8070402
2.45 0.7474632
2.5 0.6890974
2.55 0.631997
2.6 0.5761995
2.65 0.5217277
2.7 0.4685922
2.75 0.416794
2.8 0.3663254
2.85 0.3171725
2.9 0.2693156
2.95 0.2227312
3 0.1773922
3.05 0.133269
3.1 0.0903306
3.15 0.0485444
3.2 0.0078773
3.25 -0.031704
3.3 -0.070234
3.35 -0.107745
3.4 -0.14427
3.45 -0.179841
3.5 -0.21449
3.55 -0.248247
3.6 -0.281141
3.65 -0.3132
3.7 -0.344453
3.75 -0.374925
3.8 -0.40464
3.85 -0.433622
3.9 -0.461894
3.95 -0.489477
4 -0.516391
4.05 -0.542653
4.1 -0.568282
4.15 -0.593294
4.2 -0.617703
4.25 -0.641522
4.3 -0.664765
4.35 -0.687441
4.4 -0.70956
4.45 -0.731132
4.5 -0.752162
4.55 -0.772655
4.6 -0.792617
4.65 -0.81205
4.7 -0.830954
4.75 -0.84933
4.8 -0.867175
4.85 -0.884486
4.9 -0.901257
4.95 -0.91748
5 -0.933147
5.05 -0.948245
5.1 -0.962762
5.15 -0.976681
5.2 -0.989984
5.25 -1.00265
5.3 -1.014654
5.35 -1.02597
5.4 -1.036567
5.45 -1.046412
5.5 -1.055467
5.55 -1.063691
5.6 -1.071036
5.65 -1.077453
5.7 -1.082885
5.75 -1.08727
5.8 -1.090542
5.85 -1.092625
5.9 -1.09344
5.95 -1.092898
6 -1.090902
6.05 -1.087348
6.1 -1.082121
6.15 -1.075099
6.2 -1.066146
6.25 -1.055119
6.3 -1.041861
6.35 -1.026204
6.4 -1.00797
6.45 -0.986966
6.5 -0.962988
6.55 -0.935821
 6.6 -0.905238
6.65 -0.871004
6.7 -0.832874
6.75 -0.790599
6.8 -0.743925
6.85 -0.692604
6.9 -0.636393
6.95 -0.575063
7 -0.508407
7.05 -0.436254
7.1 -0.35847
7.15 -0.274984
7.2 -0.185792
7.25 -0.090977
7.3 0.0092749
7.35 0.1146604
7.4 0.2247429
7.45 0.3389411
7.5 0.4565207
7.55 0.5765916
7.6 0.6981122
7.65 0.8199017
7.7 0.9406615
7.75 1.059006
7.8 1.1735012
7.85 1.2827107
7.9 1.3852456
7.95 1.479815
8 1.5652741
8.05 1.6406657
8.1 1.7052525
8.15 1.7585369
8.2 1.8002691
8.25 1.8304414
8.3 1.8492716
8.35 1.8571776
8.4 1.8547449
8.45 1.8426908
8.5 1.8218277
8.55 1.7930275
8.6 1.7571901
8.65 1.7152152
8.7 1.6679796
8.75 1.6163198
8.8 1.5610187
8.85 1.5027976
8.9 1.4423112
8.95 1.3801461
9 1.3168212
9.05 1.2527907
9.1 1.1884474
9.15 1.1241276
9.2 1.0601159
9.25 0.9966501
9.3 0.9339267
9.35 0.8721058
9.4 0.811315
 9.45 0.7516546
9.5 0.6932007
9.55 0.6360091
9.6 0.5801182
9.65 0.5255517
9.7 0.4723212
9.75 0.4204282
9.8 0.3698656
9.85 0.3206198
9.9 0.2726717
9.95 0.2259978
10 0.1805712
10.05 0.1363628
10.1 0.0933413
10.15 0.0514744
10.2 0.0107288
10.25 -0.028929
10.3 -0.067532
10.35 -0.105114
10.4 -0.141708
10.45 -0.177346
10.5 -0.212059
10.55 -0.245878
10.6 -0.278833
10.65 -0.310951
10.7 -0.34226
10.75 -0.372786
10.8 -0.402554
10.85 -0.431588
10.9 -0.45991
10.95 -0.487541
11 -0.514501
11.05 -0.540809
11.1 -0.566483
11.15 -0.591538
11.2 -0.615989
11.25 -0.63985
11.3 -0.663133
11.35 -0.685849
11.4 -0.708008
11.45 -0.729618
11.5 -0.750686
11.55 -0.771218
11.6 -0.791217
11.65 -0.810687
11.7 -0.829629
11.75 -0.848043
11.8 -0.865926
11.85 -0.883275
11.9 -0.900084
11.95 -0.916346
12 -0.932053
12.05 -0.947192
12.1 -0.961751
12.15 -0.975713
12.2 -0.98906
12.25 -1.001772
 of Abreu-Ruessink; Isobe-Horikawa and Second order
kes

Method of Isobe-Horikawa (based on

Wave height Hs
Water depth h
Wave period T

Y
kh=
k=
L=
Time (s) Ulinear=
Parameter r=
100 150 200 250 300 Umax=
U1=
T1=
d Abreu-Ruessink A1=
nB ra=
rmax=
rmax=

Uw,on=
Uw,off=

Ton=
Toff=

Time
(s)
0
0.35
0.7
1.05
1.4
1.75
2.1
2.45
2.8
3.15
3.5
3.85
4.2
4.55
4.9
5.25
5.6
 5.95
6.3
6.65
7
7.35
7.7
8.05
8.4
8.75
9.1
9.45
9.8
10.15
10.5
10.85
11.2
11.55
11.9
12.25
12.6
12.95
13.3
13.65
14
14.35
14.7
15.05
15.4
15.75
16.1
16.45
16.8
17.15
17.5
17.85
18.2
18.55
18.9
19.25
19.6
19.95
20.3
20.65
21
21.35
21.7
22.05
22.4
22.75
23.1
23.45
23.8
24.15
24.5
ethod of Isobe-Horikawa (based on Hs)

1 (m) Velocity (m/s)

2.5
2 (m)
7 (s) 2

1.5
0.1640907862 (-) 1
0.4165160321 (-)
0.2082580161 (1/m) 0.5 T
30.1549016867 m
1.0464401784 (m/s) 0
0.8 0 50 100 150 200 250
-0.5
1.6743042855 (m/s)
0.3779939835 (m/s) -1 Column B
15.5030642132 (s)
Method Isobe-Horikawa
-1.9563019307 -1.5
0.7682612595
0.6841894777 -2
0.6841894777

1.1137647381 (m/s)
0.5605395473 (m/s)

2.3435267206 (s)
4.6564732794 (s)

Orbital velocity
(m/s)
0
0.503367183
0.898050063
1.0988308603
1.0623580778
0.79650672
0.3586779656
-0.0402111255
-0.1698299105
-0.2900324358
-0.3941540439
-0.4764216875
-0.5322740175
-0.5586142882
-0.5539820572
-0.5186341594
-0.4545304676
-0.3652252261
-0.2556699853
-0.1319390614
-0.0008927449
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
 Method Second Order Stokes Waves (not

Wave height H 1
Water depth h 2
wave period T 7
Time shift t 0
Y 0.1640907862
kh 0.4165160321
k 0.2082580161
Time (s) L 30.1549016867

w=omega 0.8971428571
50 200 250 300 Epsilon 1.2108742738
Peak velocity Ucrest 2.0839585488
Peak velocity Utrough 0.008921808
U1 1.0464401784
U2 1.0375183704

Location water surface level

x/L (H/2)cos(wt-kx)
0 0.5
0.05 0.47555286
0.1 0.4046020905
0.15 0.2940858652
0.2 0.1548114065
0.25 0.0003981634
0.3 -0.1540540156
0.35 -0.2934414743
0.4 -0.4041337136
0.45 -0.4753062991
0.5 -0.4999993659
0.55 -0.4757982146
0.6 -0.4050694411
0.65 -0.2947295101
0.7 -0.1555684047
0.75 -0.0011944891
0.8 0.153296234
0.85 0.292796339
0.9 0.4036643117
0.95 0.4750585325
1 0.4999974635
thod Second Order Stokes Waves (not valid for shallow depth H/h > 0.2)

2
Velocity (m/s)

(m)
(m) 1.5
(s)
(s) 1
(-)
(-) 0.5
(1/m) 0 Time (s)
(m) -50 0 50 100 150 200 250
-0.5
(rad)
(-) -1
(m/s)
-1.5 Column B Method Second order Stokes
(m/s)
(m/s)
-2
(m/s)

water surface level water surface level Time Orbital velocity

Eps(H/2) cos2(wt-kx) Total (s) (m/s)
0.6054371369 1.1054371369 0 2.0839585488
0.4899222625 0.9654751225 0.1 2.0630936643
0.1874571495 0.59205924 0.2 2.001067672
-0.1865400443 0.1075458208 0.3 1.8995691117
-0.489355117 -0.3345437105 0.4 1.7613546227
-0.6054363691 -0.6050382057 0.5 1.5901644727
-0.4904881653 -0.6445421809 0.6 1.3906080749
-0.1883737791 -0.4818152534 0.7 1.168023124
0.185622466 -0.2185112476 0.8 0.9283128148
0.4887867303 0.0134804312 0.9 0.6777663046
0.6054340655 0.1054346996 1 0.4228680991
0.4910528239 0.0152546093 1.1 0.1701023945
0.1892899309 -0.2157795101 1.2 -0.074241444
-0.1847044169 -0.479433927 1.3 -0.3042561326
-0.4882171037 -0.6437855084 1.4 -0.5145905522
-0.6054302262 -0.6066247152 1.5 -0.7006052022
-0.491616237 -0.338320003 1.6 -0.858504163
-0.1902056026 0.1025907364 1.7 -0.9854394698
0.1837858992 0.5874502109 1.8 -1.0795846839
0.4876462387 0.9627047712 1.9 -1.1401754458
0.6054248512 1.1054223147 2 -1.1675158518
2.1 -1.162950596
2.2 -1.1288039182
2.3 -1.0682874607
2.4 -0.9853801344
2.5 -0.8846839881
2.6 -0.77126084
2.7 -0.6504550431
2.8 -0.5277081931
2.9 -0.4083718384
3 -0.2975243071
3.1 -0.1997976233
3.2 -0.1192201509
3.3 -0.059080087
3.4 -0.021814245
3.5 -0.0089257443
3.6 -0.0209332815
3.7 -0.057353633
3.8 -0.1167179557
3.9 -0.1966213575
4 -0.2938041271
4.1 -0.4042619802
4.2 -0.5233817406
4.3 -0.6460980396
4.4 -0.7670659359
4.5 -0.8808438307
4.6 -0.9820807161
4.7 -1.065701643
4.8 -1.1270853432
4.9 -1.1622281851
5 -1.167889073
5.1 -1.1417105068
5.2 -1.082311777
5.3 -0.9893511636
5.4 -0.8635549962
5.5 -0.7067124986
5.6 -0.5216364365
5.7 -0.3120906851
5.8 -0.0826869014
5.9 0.1612465255
6 0.4138191725
6.1 0.6687520954
6.2 0.9195647101
6.3 1.1597691602
6.4 1.3830660418
6.5 1.5835352993
6.6 1.7558162585
6.7 1.8952710931
6.8 1.9981265485
6.9 2.0615894291
7 2.0839321865
7.1 2.0645458935
7.2 2.0039589237
7.3 1.9038207425
7.4 1.766851326
7.5 1.5967578106
7.6 1.3981210186
7.7 1.1762554587
7.8 0.9370472389
7.9 0.6867750281
8 0.4319197344
8.1 0.1789689205
8.2 -0.0657778645
 8.3 -0.2963966959
8.4 -0.5075139215
8.5 -0.694462363
8.6 -0.8534141892
8.7 -0.9814863286
8.8 -1.0768151791
8.9 -1.1385983595
9 -1.1671023068
9.1 -1.1636356229
9.2 -1.1304891704
9.3 -1.0708449866
9.4 -0.9886570796
9.5 -0.888508072
9.6 -0.7754464272
9.7 -0.6548096091
9.8 -0.5320389736
9.9 -0.4124924446
10 -0.3012610909
10.1 -0.2029955854
10.2 -0.1217481994
10.3 -0.0608354748
10.4 -0.0227260425
10.5 -0.008957234
10.6 -0.0200831969
10.7 -0.055656201
10.8 -0.1142417422
10.9 -0.1934669527
11 -0.2901007459
11.1 -0.4001630889
11.2 -0.5190598514
11.3 -0.6417388423
11.4 -0.762862
11.5 -0.876988
11.6 -0.978759
11.7 -1.063088
11.8 -1.125334
11.9 -1.161469
12 -1.168222
12.1 -1.143204
12.2 -1.084996
12.3 -0.993221
12.4 -0.868567
12.5 -0.712784
12.6 -0.528651
12.7 -0.3199
12.8 -0.091114
12.9 0.1524016
13 0.4047732
13.1 0.6597327
13.2 0.9108032
13.3 1.1514938
13.4 1.3754952
13.5 1.5768705
13.6 1.7502364
13.7 1.8909268
13.8 1.9951357
13.9 2.0600332
 14 2.0838531
14.1 2.0659461
14.2 2.0068002
14.3 1.9080258
14.4 1.7723062
14.5 1.6033151
14.6 1.4056046
14.7 1.1844659
14.8 0.9457677
14.9 0.695778
15 0.4409738
15.1 0.1878458
15.2 -0.057296
15.3 -0.288513
15.4 -0.500407
15.5 -0.688284
15.6 -0.848285
15.7 -0.977492
15.8 -1.074003
15.9 -1.136979
16 -1.166648
16.1 -1.164283
16.2 -1.132141
16.3 -1.073374
16.4 -0.991911
16.5 -0.892316
16.6 -0.779622
16.7 -0.659161
16.8 -0.536374
16.9 -0.416624
17 -0.305014
17.1 -0.206215
17.2 -0.124302
17.3 -0.06262
17.4 -0.023669
17.5 -0.00902
17.6 -0.019264
17.7 -0.053988
17.8 -0.111792
17.9 -0.190335
18 -0.286414
18.1 -0.396075
18.2 -0.514743
18.3 -0.637378
18.4 -0.758649
18.5 -0.873116
18.6 -0.975415
18.7 -1.060446
18.8 -1.123549
18.9 -1.160672
19 -1.168515
19.1 -1.144655
19.2 -1.087639
19.3 -0.99705
19.4 -0.873539
19.5 -0.71882
19.6 -0.535635
19.7 -0.327684
19.8 -0.099522
19.9 0.1435679
20 0.3957306
20.1 0.6507084
20.2 0.9020286
20.3 1.1431974
20.4 1.3678957
20.5 1.5701703
20.6 1.7446153
20.7 1.8865365
20.8 1.9920951
20.9 2.0584251
21 2.0837213
21.1 2.0672941
21.2 2.0095914
21.3 1.9121843
21.4 1.777719
21.5 1.6098361
21.6 1.4130586
21.7 1.1926541
21.8 0.9544739
21.9 0.7047748
22 0.45003
22.1 0.1967328
22.2 -0.048797
22.3 -0.280604
22.4 -0.493269
22.5 -0.682071
22.6 -0.843117
22.7 -0.973456
22.8 -1.071149
22.9 -1.135318
23 -1.166154
23.1 -1.164893
23.2 -1.133759
23.3 -1.075874
23.4 -0.995143
23.5 -0.896107
23.6 -0.783789
23.7 -0.66351
23.8 -0.540713
23.9 -0.420765
24 -0.308784
24.1 -0.209456
24.2 -0.126881
24.3 -0.064433
24.4 -0.024642
24.5 -0.009115
24.6 -0.018476
24.7 -0.052349
 W a te r s u rfa c e le v e l ( m )

1.5
First
Time (s) 1 ha rmonic

200 250 300

0.5

-0.5

-1
0 0.1 0.2 0.3 Dimensionless
0.4 0.5length x/L
0.6 0.7 0
s length x/L
0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1
Phase angle

0
-10
-20
-30
-40
-50
-60
-70
-80
-90
 -20

P
-30
-40
-50
-60
-70
-80
-90
0.01 0.1
U
0.1 1 10
Ursell number (-)