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BOROBUDUR

beauty in peril

UNESCO
The Great Design in the sixth century B.C. in what is now Nepal,
he was a king's heir. Expected to continue
From an undulating plain in Central Java, forty the dynasty of his father, he grew up in the
kilometres from Yogyakarta a huge stone royal court, married and had a son. But he
complex 1,100 years old soars into the sky. had been fore-ordained to another destiny and
This is Borobudur for the Buddhist, a place of at the age of 29 he renounced his riches for
pilgrimage; for the architect, a brilliant a life of meditation as a wandering monk.
harmonization of form with significance; for the Under the Tree of Wisdom at Gaya in the present
art historian, an outstanding portrayal in stone Indian State of Bihar he attained enlightenment
of the iconography of Mahayana Buddhism; for and at Benares, in a famous sermon, established
anyone, a precious legacy from the past, the principles of his teaching. Until at the
a symbol of human ingenuity, skill, perseverance age of 80 he laid his body to rest at Kusinagara,
and faith. near what is now Patna, he preached the
Its square base has sides 123 metres long, faith which has since brought inner tranquillity
making its area slightly more than the hectare to millions the same tranquillity which is
enclosed by the four legs of the Eiffel Tower reflected in the still features of the 504 statues
in Paris. From this square rises a pyramid of the Buddha at Borobudur.
of four terraces, each enclosed by a balustrade, The form of Buddhism which established
their three kilometres of walling covered by itself in Indonesia was Mahayana, the Great
1,460 reliefs, and carrying 432 statues of Vehicle, with has broad objectives and which
Buddha commanding the four winds of Heaven. also extended to Nepal, Tibet, Mongolia,
Above this are three circular terraces of China, Korea and Japan. In Java it mingled
72 fretted stupas, characteristic bell-shaped with the old Hindu-Javanese Tantrism in
structures each containing a statue of Buddha. which it was customary to recite magic
At the peak, the sealed and void central stupa formulae. It is this which is the tradition of
symbolizing the contemplation of supreme Borobudur and which is reflected both in the
truth, or Nirvana, towers more than 30 metres ornament and the arrangement of its
above ground level. soft-coloured stones.
The workers who began to robe a hill in Each level of the huge stupa which is
stone in the reign of King Samaratunga about Borobudur corresponds to one of the three
800 A.D., who hewed, carved, carried and dug, spheres, or Dhatus, into which Buddhist
must have known that they would not live teaching divides life. The first is Kamadhatu,
to see the great design completed. They were the sphere of desire, and this is the base or
working for future generations, including our Hidden Foot, whose reliefs, depicting worldly
own. When Buddha the Benevolent was born desires and pleasures and their punishment,
üjItsSíí

Unesco/R. Greenough Borobudur: symbol of human ingenuity, skill,


perseverance and faith
were concealed for centuries by a second Bhadratjari on the life of Sudhana, who, in his
foundation of heaped-up stones. The four quest for enlightenment, meets several
rectangular terraces, with their thousands of Bodhisattvas and Maitreya, the Future Buddha.
reliefs and decorative panels form the next Finally the pilgrim progresses to the
stage, Rupadhatu, or sphere of form, while the sphere of formlessness, where the walls and
three concentric rings of stupas compose balustrades are devoid of ornament and
Arupadhatu or the sphere of formlessness, where there is nothing for contemplation but
around the great central stupa. the sky and the surrounding stone.
Four gates, each arched over by a carved This is Borobudur, the temple once named
monster's head, lead to the ascent of Bhumisam-Barabudhara : the Mountain of
Borobudur, whose terraces are linked by four the Accumulation of Virtue in the Ten Stages
stairways climbing each face of the pyramid. of the Bodhisattva.
The Buddhist pilgrim enters by the east gate,
turns to his left on the first terrace and mounts
terrace after terrace, keeping the monument Out of history
always on his right. In this way the reliefs
form a logical sequence which has been called For about a century and a half of its existence
a rosary of stone. Through this he progresses Borobudur was the pilgrimage centre which
on his quest for Buddhaship or Bodhisattva, its builders had planned it to be. Then, with
release from the cycle of reincarnation. the fall of the Mataram Kingdom c. 930
the centre of gravity of Javanese cultural and
political life moved eastwards and the
Ten rounds of ascent monument dropped out of history. Only two
fleeting references in eighteenth century
In succession he makes ten rounds. In the manuscripts are known. Earthquake and
sphere of form he sees the life of Buddha subsidence wrought their havoc and the jungle
Gautama from his birth until his sermon at reclaimed its own.
Benares, then a sequence of carved illustrations It was not until 1814, under the brief
from the Jakatas about the deeds of Buddha British administration of Java by Sir Thomas
in his former incarnations, then a series of Stamford Raffles that Borobudur emerged to
Awandas depicting deeds by Bodhisattvas in the light of modern knowledge. Raffles ordered
their former lives and finally 460 reliefs, an engineer officer to investigate, 200 men
which take up all the walls and balustrades worked to fell trees, burn undergrowth and dig
remaining up to the sphere of formlessness to away the earth where the monument had
show scenes from the Gandawyuha and been entirely buried : by 1835 Borobudur was
Stone on stone, terrace on terrace, circle on square,
simplicity out of complexity

Unesco/Institut Géographique National What to the pilgrim is luxuriant tapestry of carved stone
is to the aviator an austere geometrical figure

Unesco/Institut Géographique National


laid bare down to the Hidden Foot. Drawings acquired a major item of the universal cultural
were made, daguerrotypes and photographs heritage, but also one threatened with ruin.
taken, the first monographs written. Between
1890 and 1891 the entire Hidden Foot
was excavated and the reliefs photographed Monsoon and menace
before the 13,000 cubic metres of stone were
replaced. The threat to Borobudur is manifold.
Already, the first doubts were felt for the Its foundations are little more than earth and
safety of the monument. Had the base been waste stone material, poured into the spaces
covered with rubble to save the pilgrim between what were three separate hills by the
from being distracted by the images of worldly ancient builders. No mortar was placed
desire in the Kamadhatu ? Had a new start between the blocks which compose it and
been made on the monument by a later these are held together by gravity the same
monarch wishing to claim it as his creation? force which also tends to pull the whole
Or and this seemed very likely had the base edifice down the slope where it clings.
been reinforced with stone to counteract Not only is the monument in an earthquake
the subsidence of the higher levels? zone which has suffered several major seismic
The first major restoration was carried out shocks in the time since it was built, it is
by a Dutch engineer, Theodor van Erp, whose also in an area where the tropical climate
name will always be linked to Borobudur, subjects its construction and material to the
in the early part of this century- Under his severest strain.
direction, crumbling stupas were rebuilt, pave¬ When the sun shines temperatures can vary
ments laid in the terraces, carvings cleaned by 20° centigrade in a single day. During
of lichen and moss. the monsoon, a 24-hour period can bring as
His work, and what was done after his time, much as 200 millimetres of rain, while daily
gave back to Borobudur much of its former falls of 1 00 millimetres are not exceptional.
glory. But it soon appeared that the years the This is the weather Borobudur has endured
monument had spent concealed by earth for more than a millennium. The rain which
and overgrowth had in fact protected it from has beaten upon it has overwhelmed its
the ravages of the weather, while some of the inadequate system of drainage, gushed through
steps taken to clean and preserve it were its gargoyles to collect in puddles on the
shown by later scientific investigation to risk terraces, poured through the unmortared cracks
accelerating the process of decay in surface and to wash away the sustaining earth beneath.
structure. By the time the Republic of Today sections of the northern half of
Indonesia came into existence in 1948 it had the lower terraces lean at crazy angles; if they
In the sphere of formlessness only
the stone and the sky are there for
contemplation

Archways topped by monsters' heads


lead to the ascent of Borobudur

1,460 reliefs point


the pilgrim towards Nirvana
collapse they could bring down the whole Some of the measures taken in the recent
monument like an avalanche. past have proved to accelerate the decay.
Centuries of moisture, seeping through Too vigorous cleaning has weakened the
the porous volcanic andésite from which surfaces it was intended to save. Rebuilding
Borobudur was hewn, have attacked its exqui¬ in some sections has placed severe strains
sitely carved surfaces. Brilliant white bonds on the parts still in their original state.
of silica, forced there by capillary action, now " Protective " coatings have promoted the
disfigure the joints and fissures. Algae, production of damaging chemicals.
generally associated with organisms causing If Borobudur is to survive, a thorough and
deep damage to the stone, have grown on the massive rescue operation will have to be
dampest blocks. Lichens, which have formed carried through. This calls for scientific
like patches of leprosy on some of the knowledge, technical skill, aesthetic expertise
statues, help to erode the surfaces. and money.
Van Erp's achievement: the restoration of 1911 shows
the stupas in their ancient, bell-like form

When van Erp began work, the 72 stupas


on the circular terraces were little Unesco/R. Greenough
more than piles of rubble

Laid bare to the eye and to tne elements.


Contemplating Buddha revealed
by the dismantling of its stupa
From their niches, 432 statues of Buddha
command the winds of Heaven

Removed to relative safety, these statues await reconstruction


of the monument before they can return to their rightful places

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Unesco/R. Lemaire
One of Borobudur's gargoyles: massive, monstrous,
striking but for the job it must do, inadequate

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Operation Rescue Their reports, covering aspects as diverse as
engineering problems, earthquake hazards,
The preservation of Borobudur was an early microbiological analysis of the organisms, study
anxiety of the infant Republic of Indonesia of the pores of the stones and the chemistry
from its founding, although it was apparent of the water which was attacking them,
even then that the scale and complexity provided hope that a long-term solution could
of the problem made it one which a new be found.
and developing country could not solve There were disagreements among some
on its own. experts, both then and later, on the sequence of
In 1948 two Indian archaeologists, steps to be taken : was it necessary to dismantle
C. Sivaramamurti and K.R. Srinivasan, were the whole monument? Could the terraces
invited to survey the state of the monument be reinforced without throwing the whole
and in 1955 the Indonesian Government structure out of balance? Should the stones
asked Unesco for advice on the weathering be cleaned on the spot or moved to
and disintegrating of the stone. Unesco laboratories for treatment?
sent a distinguished Belgian art historian. But there was consensus on the broad
Dr. Paul Coremans, to Borobudur, and after lines: if the subsidence could be checked and
his mission a staff member of the Indonesian proper drainage provided, the stones of
Archaeological Service went to Brussels Borobudur could be cleaned and refurbished
for special training at the laboratory of the and, free from the threat of all-pervading
Royal Institute of the Artistic Heritage. moisture, could be expected to survive.
A thorough-going programme of research It was on this basis that the International
was launched in 1966, boreholes were sunk Campaign to Safeguard Borobudur got into
and the mechanics of the soil investigated. gear in 1973, after five years of work by
Some of the balustrades were dismantled in Indonesian and international specialists. By
order to prevent the collapse of a large part August, when President Suharto of Indonesia
of the monument. The following year Unesco inaugurated the restoration work, Unesco
commissioned Professor Caesar Voûte of had received payments and pledges from the
the Netherlands and Dr. Bernard Groslier of international community worth more than
France to study means of preserving the $2 million for the Trust Fund which
monument and in 1969 Dr. Giselle Hyvert, Member States had voted to set up for the
a French biologist, and two Dutch civil protection of the sanctuary.
engineers. C.C.T. de Beaufort and O.H. Deibel, Estimated cost of the rescue operation was
undertook a mission to investigate the $8 million, of which the Indonesian
technical problems of restoration. Government guaranteed $3 million. The bulk

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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^¡ÍJ^ . w^J

I -'? ;

Rain, up to 200 mm a day, is the great enemy.


Temporarily removed to relative safety,
these statues face the pitiless downpour

Great fissures, separating the unmortared


blocks, threaten the whole mighty edifice
with collapse

The beauty to be saved:


504 serene statues like this grace the complex

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of the balance had come, and was expected conservation, a photogrammetric survey of
to come, from other governments. Australia, the whole northern face, a new mechanical
Belgium, Burma, Cyprus, Ghana, the analysis of the soil, stability calculations and
Federal Republic of Germany, India, Iran, an engineering seismological appraisal
Italy, Japan, the Netherlands Singapore to back up the careful re-creation of the
and Thailand responded to Borobudur's need sanctuary.
with cash donations and contributions in But Unesco has undertaken other
kind includind expert services and equipment. campaigns to preserve the world's cultural
But help is expected from many other heritage and one outstanding precedent
sources as well as governmental ones. Even shows that this aim can transcend immediate
in the early days of the campaign private needs and purely national preoccupations.
bodies and institutions contributed nearly When the temples of Nubia were threatened
$13,000, while a steady stream of smaller by the waters of the new Aswan Dam,
sums was awaited through Project No. 560 fifty countries contributed $20 million
of the Unesco Gift Coupon Scheme, the to save the artistic treasures of 23 temples
channel for individuals of good will to aid and to transport the two great monuments of
Unesco work and for which donations can be Abu Simbel, stone by stone, to a new site.
as small as $5. At the other end of the There was therefore reason for confidence
scale it was anticipated that contributions when Mr. René Maheu, Director-General
from private sources in the Netherlands, of Unesco, called for a new movement
Japan and the United States could be reckoned of international cultural solidarity when the
in millions of dollars. Trust Fund was opened.
The task of saving Borobudur will be long, What was at stake, in his words, was a
delicate and complicated. The Executive world masterpiece of architecture and
Committee for the International Campaign has sculpture and a call of the purest faith, whose
called for continued studies on stone disappearance would impoverish all men.

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Undermined by centuries of monsoons,
the lower terraces yield dangerously to pressure

Unesco/R. Lemaire

The smuous grace of these figures composes a ballet


in high relief but the missing hand and the fragment of face
speak only of decay

Foliage, fissures, bonds of silicon forcing


their way through the joins
all help the decay of Borobudur

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SOURCES

Bernard P. Groslier: Borobudur, in Unesco


Courier, June, 1968;
Giselle Hyvert; The Conservation of the
Borobudur Temple,
Unesco, RMO/RD /2646/CLP, July 1972;
Caesar Voûte: The Restoration and
Conservation project of Borobudur Temple,
Indonesia, in Studies in Conservation,
Vol. 18, N° 3;
Yazir Marzuki and Fred D. Awuy:
Namo Buddhaya, Indonesia Overseas Bank,
Amsterdam.

The co-operation of the Indonesian Delegation


to Unesco, the Unesco Centrum, Amsterdam
and the Asian Cultural Centre for Unesco,
Tokyo, is gratefully acknowledged.

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