Borobudur, Indonesia

Borobudur, a Buddhist stupa in the Mahayana tradition, is the largest Buddhist

monument in the world. Located on the Indonesian island of Java, 40 km (25mi)
northwest of Yogyakarta, Borobudur was built around 750 AD. The magnificent
temple is a three-dimensional mandala (diagram of the universe) and a visual
representation of Buddhist teachings.

History of Borobudur
There is no written record of who built Borobudur or of its intended purpose. The
construction time has been estimated by comparison between carved reliefs on the
temple's hidden foot and the inscriptions commonly used in royal charters during the
eight and ninth centuries. Borobudur was likely founded around 750 AD. This
corresponds to the peak of the Sailendra dynasty in central Java (760830 AD),
when it was under the influence of the Srivijayan Empire. The construction has been
estimated to have taken 75 years and been completed during the reign of
Samaratungga in 825.

For centuries, Borobodur lay hidden under layers of volcanic ash. The reasons
behind the desertion of this magnificent monument still remain a mystery. Some
scholars believe that famine caused by an eruption of Mount Merapi forced the
inhabitants of Central Java to leave their lands behind in search of a new place to
live. When people once again inhabited this area, the glory of Borobudur was buried
by ash from Mount Merapi.

Borobudur was rediscovered in 1814 by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles who, during
his visit in Semarang, received a report indicating the discovery of a hill full of many
carved stones. The hill was believed by the local inhabitants to be the site of an
ancient monument called budur. Raffles then commissioned a team led by Cornelius
to investigate the hill.

It was in 1835 that the site was cleared. Some efforts were made to restore and
preserve the colossal monument since then. Unfortunately, in 1896 the Dutch
colonial government gave away eight containers of Borobudur stones, including
reliefs, statues, stairs and gates, as presents for the King of Siam who was visiting
Indonesia.

A restoration programundertaken between 1973 and 1984 returned much of the

complex to its former glory, and the site has since become a destination of Buddhist
pilgrimage. On January 21, 1985 the temple suffered minor damage due to a bomb
attack. In 1991, Borobudur was listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
What to See at Borobudur
Viewed from above, Borobudur takes the form of a giant mandala, symbolically
depicting the path of the bodhisattva from samsara to nirvana, through the story of
Sudhana described in the Gandavyuha Sutra, a part of the Avatamsaka Sutra. In
total, this massive monument contains over 2 million stone blocks.

Some scholars think that this massive monument is a gigantic textbook of

Buddhism to help people to achieve enlightenment. To read this Buddhist textbook in
stone requires a walk of more than two miles. The walls of the galleries are adorned
with impressive reliefs illustrating the life of Buddha Shakyamuni and the principles
of his teaching.

Representing the existence of the universe, Borobudur perfectly reflects the Buddhist
cosmology, which divides the universe into three intermingled separate levels. The
three levels are Kamadhatu (world of desire), Ruphadatu (world of forms), and
Arupadhatu (world of formlessness).

The hidden base of Borobudur was originally the first level, which contains the
gallery of Kamadhatu level. It is thought that during construction Borobudur
experienced a landfall that threatened the entire building. To prevent the whole
monument from collapsing, the Kamadhatu level was closed and made into a new
base that holds Borobudur steady.

This level of Kamadhatu pictures the world of passion and the inevitable laws of
karma. The first 117 panels show various actions leading to one and the same result,
while the other remaining 43 panels demonstrate the many results that follow one
single effect. At least 160 relief panels were carved around this level, based on the
manuscript of Karmavibhangga. What is left of these can be seen in the Southeast
corner of this level.

The reliefs of the Rupadhatu level show the stories based on the manuscripts of
Lalitavistara, Jataka-Avadana and Gandavyuha. The Lalitavistara reliefs, consisting
of 120 panels, tell us about the life of Siddhartha Gautama Buddha. It starts with
the glorious descent of Buddha from the Tushita heaven. Born as Prince Siddhartha,
Buddha's childhood was isolated from the outside world's misery. Accidentally
witnessing the misery of sickness, decrepitude and death, young Prince Siddharta
decided to escape from the worldly life and commencing his search of freedom from
suffering. Siddharthas long and painful search finally led him to the highest level of
enlightenment and made him Buddha, the Enlightened One. This story ends with
Buddhas sermon in the Deer Park near Benares.

The Jataka is a collection of stories about Buddha's previous reincarnation, chains

and virtues. According to the Jataka, Buddha was born 504 times before being born
as Prince Siddharta, taking on the forms of god, kings, princes, learned men,
thieves, slaves, and a gambler. Many times he was born in the forms of animals such
as lion, deer, monkey, swan, big turtle, quail, horse, bird and many others. But the
Boddhisatva (Buddha-to-be) was distinguished from all other kings, slaves, or
animals among whom he lived. The Boddhisatva is always superior and wiser than
those around him.

As to the relief of Avadana, the main figure is not the Buddha himself. All the saintly
deeds pictured in this part are attributed to other legendary characters. The stories
are compiled in Dvijavadana (Glorious Heavenly Acts) and the Avadana Sataka (The
Hundred Avadana). The first 20 frames in the lower series of stories on the first
gallery depict the Sudhanakumaravana.

The series of reliefs covering the wall of the second gallery is dedicated to
Sudhanas tireless wandering during his search for the highest wisdom. The story is
continued on the walls and balustrades of the third and fourth galleries. Most of the
460 panels depict the scenes based on the Mahayana text Gandavyuha, while the
concluding scenes are derived from the text of Badracari.

On the last three circular uppermost terraces, 72 stupas circle the huge main stupa
that crowns the top of the temple. The circular form represents the eternity without
beginning and without end, a superlative, tranquil, and pure state of the formless
world. There are no reliefs on the three circular terraces.

All but the largest central stupas on the upper levels contain a (more or less) life-
sized statue of the Buddha kneeling, although many of these statues are missing or
damaged. There are also many alcoves along the lower levels which contain similar
statues but many of these are missing or damaged as well.

Getting There
Getting from Yogyakarta to Borobudur takes an hour by car. Vehicles with a driver
can easily be rented at the airport or from hotels for about $35 a day.

There are several flights a day to Yogyakarta from both Jakarta and Bali. Flight time
is about one hour for both. Traveling overland from Bali is possible by minibus, but
may take up to 24 hours on busy roads. From Jakarta, there are several trains a day,
costing about $15 for air-conditioned first class, which can take between 7 and 10
hours.