Homemade Bandsawmill Plans HMZ1 2.01

Home Built Bandsaw Mill Plans
Model HMZ-1
Design by Homemadezone.com
Copyright © 2016 by HomemadeZone.com Page 1 of 50

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websites. Copyright © 2016 by HomemadeZone.com Page 2 of 50
Index
Overview
Building the bed
Building the Carriage
The wheel Bearings
Mounting the wheel bearings
Blade Tensioner
The Wheels (Tires)
Sizing the Blade
The Drive axle
The drive pulley
Engine and engine pulley
Blade guides
Raising and lowering mechanism
Guarding the wheels and blade
Log locking Mechanism

Overview
Welcome to your very rewarding journey in building your own home
sawmill.
These plans are from the first sawmill that I built to mill some logs that I had
access to. Part of the reason that I built this was that I always like to feel that
I am in control of things from start to finish. Meaning that even though I
was building my own woodworking projects, I was still confined to buying
lumber in the sizes and prices that were available. With my own sawmill I
could choose the logs that I wanted and saw them in anyway that I wanted
as well. There's no better feeling than taking something from a tree on your
property to a finished project.
As with most of my projects, cost is a big factor. I try to keep the costs low
by re-using items that will decrease the overall cost. I also encourage you to
do the same in your build. It is for that reason that I have left part of these
plans flexible. I want you to improvise and use what you have available to
you. I will give you ideas on how to do this in each section, but I think you
should challenge yourself to make feasible substitutes when necessary.
When I am building something I take what I have available, and basically

build to make things fit around it.
So.... Don't go out and make all the cuts of your steel to the dimensions that
I have shown you here. You should use these dimensions as a guide and
build the details to fit "your" sawmill.

Building the bed
Ok, here I am going to show you the basic structure of the bed and the
dimensions of my sawmill bed.
I want to stress that you can build the bed whatever size that you want (Just
keep in mind that if you change the width that you will need to make sure to
build your carriage to fit this width.
The main thing about the bed is the rail that the carriage rides on. I used
angle iron that was filpped over to produce an upside down "V" for for the
carriage wheels to ride on. The main reason that I chose this is that the
wheels that I had access to were V groove. While they worked well, My first
choice would actually have been a deep u groove below. I would have used
the angle iron in a "L" orientation so that the wheel would ride on the edge
of the steel.
This would give less surface area for sawdust to land and build up. With
my current design I have to periodically clean off the drive surfaces.
Feel free to use whatever you have access to.

The basics of the bed that I built are as follows:
The bed is 20' long and has cross braces every 4 ft.
The drive rails are 1" steel angle, Cross braces are 2.25" steel angle and
the main bed rails are 4" X 1.5" steel channel.

Left end view of bed construction
Right end underside view of bed construction
Right underside view of bed construction (Shows attachment

of cross braces. Copyright © 2016 by HomemadeZone.com Page 7 of 50
Bed Stops 4pcs
Bed stops are tabs welded to the end of each bed rail. They are used to
prevent the carriage from rolling right off the end of the bed.
They are not shown in some of the diagrams, but it is important that
they are used.
Material details:
4 pcs
These are made from 1.5" flatbar by .25" thick and are cut 6.75" long.
If you made your bed frame out of something other that 4" channel,
just make sure the tabs are long enough to stop the wheels of your
carriage.
Connection:
Sipmly weld to the end of each rail.

With this much of the bed completed you are now ready to start
moving on to building the carriage. We will come back near the end to
build the log locking mechanisms and any bunks required to raise the
log high enough to make proper cuts.
Bed Material Substitutions
You are wide open here to pretty much use whatever you want for the
bed, provided that it is strong enough to support the mill without
distorting. You will also need to consider what wheels your carriage
will ride on as your drive rails will need to suit this as well.
One of my larger builds actually uses an old construction trailer /

mobile home frame for the bed.
So.... think creatively here!

Building the Carriage
The carriage is going to be the frame that contains most of the sawmills
parts.
Once again you can use some freedom here with parts, but unless you
want to go with a totally different carriage design you will want to stick
roughly to the design shown here.
The design that I came up with is somewhat unique because I was looking
for simplicity. It is a two post design that does not use bearings for the
head to raise up and down on. It worked very well, and I would
recommend it and plan to use it in future builds as well.

1 - Top Cross Brace
2- Upright posts x 2
3 - Engine support Frame x 2
4 - Engine support frame base
5 - Mid Cross Braces x 2
6 - Sleeve / Slides
7 - Carriage Foot x 2
8 - Carriage wheel assembly
9 - Raise handle support

1 - Top Cross Brace
Material details:
The top cross brace is made from 4.5" steel channel. On this mill it is 37"
long.
If you want to make a mill that is 12" wider than mine add 12" to this
measurement. You should have already made a decision on the width of
the mill when you built the bed. You should now be building the carriage
to fit the bed.
Connection:
Attachment of this piece will happen in the next component (the
upright posts)

2- Upright posts x 2
Material details:
The upright posts are made from 3.5" x 3.5" square tubing with a
3/16" wall thickness and are 44" long
If you want to make a mill that is 12" wider than mine add 12" to this
measurement. You should have already made a decision on the width
of the mill when you built the bed. You should now be building the
carriage to fit the bed.
Connection:
The steel channel will be use with the flat suface facing up and the
upright post will sit inside the "U" shape. You will need to weld the
pieces together. It would hurt to add a gusset from the top brace to the
inside of the post on each side.

6 - Sleeve / Slides 2pcs
Material details:
The Sleeves are made from 4" x 4" square tubing with a wall thickness of
3/16" and 8.25" long
These sleeves will slide up and down on the outside of the upright posts,
when you raise and lower the head. The inside dimensions of this
square tubing is sized to fit relatively close to the outside dimensions of
the upright posts in the previous step. We will add grease to this to help
with friction, and there are a few tricks that will improve the fit if it's a
bit loose. Generally speaking there will not be any forces against the 2
mating sufraces while you are trying to raise or lower the head anyway,
so not much to worry about here.
Connection:
simply slide one sleeve over the end of each upright post

7- Carriage Feet x 2
Material details:
The carriage feet are made from standard 4" X 1.5" steel channel
cut to 32" long.
The feet of the mill will give the stability to the carriage keeping it
fromtipping forward or backwards and will also be used to attach the
wheel for rolling the carriage on the bed rails.
Connection:
The steel channel will be use with the flat suface facing down
and the upright post will sit inside the "U" shape. You will need
to weld the pieces together.
Note: I would also recommend a gusset plate welded to the front

and back of each upright post as this is a high stress area.

8 - Wheel assembly x 4
Material details:
You will need 4 grooved wheels with a mounting plate that has
four holes drilled for attachment.
These wheels may vary depending on what you have sourced. The
main thing is that they 1.) match up with the type of rail you used on
the bed. 2.) They have or you have made a mounting plate that can
be bolted to the foot.
Connection:
The wheels will be bolted to the end of each foot. You should
ensure the holes in your wheel assembly plate are slightly larger
than your carriage foot and your bolts. This will allow for
adjustments. Put each bolt in hand tight and then sit the
carriage on the bed rails making sure the wheels are seated
properly on the rails and the left and right are all the way back
against the bed stops. When you get this alignment done
tighten all of the wheel assembly bolts.

5 - Mid Cross Braces x 2
The middle cross braces serve a couple purposes. The first is that they will
be the frame that the engine and band wheels will be attached to. the
second is that they will basically make up the head which will get raised
and lowered determine board thickness etc.... The last is they will provide
some support to the upright posts.
Material details:
2 pcs
These are made from 4" angle and are 61" long. If you made your bed
wider than mine you will need to add that to these dimensions as well
Connection:
The steel angle will be welded to the sleeves. One brace on the front
and one on the back (equal to each other left to right and in height).
To get proper alignment make sure that the carriage is sitting on the
bed rails and the wheels are both up against the back stops.
The brace positioning will be centered (left to right) and (up and down
on the sleeves) Copyright © 2016 by HomemadeZone.com Page 17 of 50
3 - Engine support Frame x 2
Material details:
2 pcs
These are made from 2.75" angle and are 25.5" long.
These will be the frame rails of the engine mounting base. Again feel
free to use whatever you have available for this.
Connection:
You have 2 options here. 1.) you can drill and bolt the frame rails
to the steel angle cross braces for the carriage, or 2.) you can weld
them. Totally up to you. I would wait to make this connection
until you are ready to hook up your drive belts and pullies though.
This may determine the location you need to put it. (On mine it
was centered but depending on what you source for parts, yours
may need to be a bit different. You don't want to make extra work
for yourself by having to move this later.

4 - Engine support Frame base
Material details:
3/8" steel plate 12" X 15.75"
holes to be drilled to match engine mounting pattern.
This is totally up to you if you decide to use a steel plate here. You
could just as easily use 2 pieces of steel flat bar and line them up with
your engine mounting bolts. Lots of options here.
Connection:
you can weld this(these) to your engine support rails.

9 - Raise handle support
Material details:
2" x 1.5" steel channel by 8" long
Slot location shown to the right
The easiest way to get this slot is to mill it on a

milling machine, but you can also do this using
a 3/4" drill and angle grinder with a cut-off disc.
step 1) drill (2) 0.25" pilot holes 3" apart

(Center to center)
Step 2) drill thru these holes with your 3/4" drill
bit
step 3) using your cutoff disc on the angle
grinder cut from the edge of one hole down to
the edge of the hole on the opposite end.
Repeat for the other side of the hole. You will
now have a slot 3/4" wide.
Step 4) Use a hand file or rotary file to clean up
the sharp edges.
Connection:
you can weld this to your top support brace. Be sure to center this
on the top support brace (left to right)
The wheel Bearings
The wheel bearings that you are going to source for this build are
from a front wheel drive car. The best place is a salvage yard, unless
you have a few junked vehicles kicking around anyway. You should
be able to source these especially cheap if you talk to the salvage yard
owner and explain what you are using them for.
You are going to want a matching set. One front wheel bearing and
one rear wheel bearing from the same vehicle. (they do not have to
be the same vehicle as long as you can get similar dummy tires to fit
the bolt pattern of the hub and bearing that you get.)
You are also going to get 1 front drive axle and and 2 dummy tires to
fit the hub bolt pattern from the same vehicle.
Below are some examples of what you are looking for for the wheel
bearings.
Front Rear
These wheel bearings work well because they are only operating at a
fraction of their load and speed ratings.
The other benefit is that they are easy to mount to the carriage and
already come with a bolt battern to accept the wheels. And the best
part is that you should be able to find this stuff very cheap (If not for
free if you know someone junking an old car)

Mounting the wheel bearings
The mounting brackets for the wheel bearings are going to consist of
2 parts. The angle bracket that will have the mounting bolts, and a
plate used to attach it to the carriage and make toe in / toe out
adjustments.

The Mounting Bracket
Material details:
4" x 4" steel angle by 9" long
The next thing you will need to do after cutting the steel angle to
the proper length is to mak the bolting pattern for the wheel
bearing that you have (This will probably be different between the
front and the rear wheel bearings that you have, so you will have to
line each one up before you do it.
Even though the measurements may be different for your bolt

patterns than mine was, it should be a similar setup. There should
be 4 bolt holes and a large hole in the center for part of the hub to
stick through. I would cut the center hole first and then set the
wheel bearing in place so you can mark the bolt holes before you
drill them.
I used a plasma cutter to cut the center hole, but you may need to
get creative on this one and work with what you have. I cut my
hole bigger than it needed to be, so don't feel that this hole needs
to be perfect.

The Adjustment Plate
Material details:
1/4" steel plate 7" x 7 11/16"
Step 1) Cut the outside shape. (the large outside radius is not ctritical, it is just there so if
you turn the plate it does not stick out past the mounting bracket.
Step 2) Drill the center bolt hole thru the plate and the mounting bracket. (bolt and hole to
be 3/4" dia. )
Step 3) Drill the other bolt hole thru both the plate and the bracket. (3/4" dia)
Step 4) You will want to slot this last hole in the plate to allow for adjustment. You do not
need anywhere near as much of a slot as what is shown in the diagram above (Probably no
more than 5 deg turn in each direction)
The adjustment plate is going to allow you to make adjustments to
your wheels when your mill is complete. If you made any small
errors in alignment during the build you can fix them with these
adjustments later when the wheels are on.
Attaching the mounting bracket and

adjustment plate to the carriage
On the drive wheel bearing side you are going

to weld the plate to the bottom of the cross
braces as shown to the right.
You will line it up with the end of the cross

braces and put the edge of the highlighted bolt
up against the inside of the front brace. (Make
sure you can still turn the bolt)

On the rear wheel bearing side we are goin to do
things a little differently. This side is going to
need to slide to be able to adjust the blade
tension.
We will hold off on mouting this side until we

get the components for the tensioner built.

Make the blade tensioner body out of the plate steel using the dimensions
below. Keep in mind that this wil slide between the cross braces on the
carriage, so you should make it to fit that. (don't just follow my dimensions
here. do some test fitting before you weld together to make sure it will slide.
The nut you see on the front of the body will actually be welded to the steel
plate of the body. We will cover the threaded rod adjuster on the netx page.
NOTE: You will also need to notch the bottom of one side of the tensioner
body to accomodate the bolt from the wheel mount adjuster plate. (You can
see that on the right side of the image below the tensioner body passes over
the bolt)

For this just take a 3/4" piece of threaded rod and cut to approx 12" in length.
On one end weld a piece of flat bar or roundstock, or whatever else you want
to use for a handle.
Next you will start threading the rod through the bolt that is welded to the
tensioner body. Once the rod passes through the hole on the opposite end
of the tensioner body you can weld a flat washer to the other end. The flat
washer proviveds a larger surface to press up against the sleeve that is on the
upright post. This will prevent it from gouging the steel up on the sleeve. (A
dab of grease on the washer will also help this)

Attaching the tensioner body to the
wheel bracket
In this step we will be attaching the tensioner body to the wheel
bracket. If you remember for the "drive / front" wheel bearing
bracket we welded it to the cross braces. Since the rear wheel
bearing side is going to be used for blade adjustment, we need to
weld this side to the tensioner body.
In order to do this you will need to get everything lined up properly

first.
Step 1) Drop the tensioner body in

between the cross braces
step 2) Place the wheel bearing

mounting bracket assembly up in
place on the under side of the
tensioner body.
Step 3) In this step we will align the

left and right side brackets. Take a
long straight edge and place it along
the front face of both wheel mounting
brackets so that they are aligned.
When they are aligned properly, take
a large C-Clamp and clamp the
Tensioner body to the wheel
mounting bracket. Slide the complete
(clamped) assembly out and weld it
together. Remove the clamp and slide
the complete assembly back in place.

Mounting The Tires / Wheels
Next you will bolt up the wheel bearings and install the dummy
tires tht you sourced from your junked vehicles.
NOTE: Depending on your wheel bearing and rim offsets you

may need to cut some of the cross brace away to provide
clearance so your tire does not rub.

Sizing the Blade
With the Wheels / tires in place now you can get a measurement for
the blade.
Step 1) Turn the blade tensioner adjuster until it is in about the middle
of it's adjustment range.
Step 2) Get a rope or string that will not stretch.
Step 3) Wrap the rope around the tires (as the blade would be) and
pull the rope tightly, and mark where it meets the end.
Step 4) Lay the rope out and take a measurent of the length. This will
be the length of the blade that you need.
For more information on blade sizing and selection go to my site:
http://homemadezone.com/sawmill-blade-selection/

The Drive axle
In this section I am going to cover how you will take your drive axle from
the car and modify it to fit your sawmill application
You can watch a video explaining this on my website here:

http://homemadezone.com/hmz-1-plans-drive-shaft-drive-wheel-bearing/
The first step is to cut the spline end off of the drive axle. You will want
to make the cut past the shoulder (See the red line in the diagram below)
You are going to keep the spline and and set aside the rest of the shaft.
The next step is to cut 1" round bar to 12" long. You will line the spline
piece from the previous step, and the round bar up and weld the 2 pieces
together. You will need to make sure you get this alignment right as you
will have runout and vibration if you do not. (using a piece of angle iron
as a "V" block can help with this step if you do not have a lathe.

Drive axle Mounting
Mounting the drive axle is fairly straight forward. You will put the spline
end through the wheel bearing and tighten the nut on the threads. In my
original build this is all I used, but after drawing up the 3D model it is
obvious that this shaft should be supported with some type of outboard
bearing. So I have added an outboard pillow block for support in these
plans. See below.
I added sourcing information on my website for this bearing
http://homemadezone.com/sawmill-material-sourcing/

The drive pulley
Depending on the final blade speed in sfpm that you are looking for, you are going to
need a 12"-14" drive pulley. You can play with pulley combinations to get the proper
speed that you are looking for. for example: You are aiming for 4500-5000 SFPM
(surface Feet Per Minute) of the Blade.
Your engine will be rotating at around 3200 rpm .
Use the calculator on this page http://vintagemachinery.org/math/sfpm.aspx to calculate
your pulley diameters.
One example that works would be: engine pulley dia = 3″ Drive pulley = 12″
Bandwheel / dummy tire Dia = 24″ final SFPM of blade = 5,000
You will need to measure your tires dia and then play with the calculator from there.
There are many combinations that will work. One limiting factor may be what dia
pulley you can source for your drive pulley as it is the larger one.
See My material sourcing page for where you can buy a large pulley:
http://homemadezone.com/sawmill-material-sourcing/
You will need an ID of 1" to fit over the round bar that is now part of the drive shaft.

The Engine pulley
Depending on what your calculations on the previous page came up with, you will need
to source a pulley of the proper OD, and the ID to fit your engines shaft. (Be sure both
pulley's take the same type V-belt)

The Engine
There are many ways to power this mill. I used a 12HP horizantal shaft gas
engine. The 12HP seemed to have plenty of power for the speeds/feeds I was
using, but most recommend this as a minimum.
Others have also used large electric motors to power their mills as well.
Really it comes down to what you are able get for the budget that you have.
To Mount the engine you will need to sit it in place and line up your pullies.
When your pullies are aligned, mark your mounting holes and drill them
out.
You are now ready to bolt the engine in place.

The Belt And Tensioner
The drive belt is going to be engaged and disengaged using a belt tensioner.
The belt in the "neutral" state will be loose enough that it will not drive the
band wheels and blade. When we use the lever to tighten the belt, this will
make the belt tight enough to drive the band wheels and blade.
The tensioner is made up of a bar / lever and an idler pulley from the
alternator belt system on a car.
You will need to make this to fit your mills pulley system etc.... I have
shown a few images below which will give you an Idea of how it should look.

Drive Engage Option
An option to engage and disengage the band wheels / blade would
be to add the PTO cluth off of a lawn mower. This would add a
few dollars to the over all build, but would work really well. The
PTO clutch would replace the engine pulley, so you would need to
re-size your drive pulley as well to ensure you get the proper blade
speed. The other consideration is that you would need a battery
power source as well to engage and disengage the PTO clutch.

Raising and lowering mechanism
The way that the head on the mill will be raised and lowered (Basically
blade height) will be using 2 pcs of 3/4" threaded rod.
I would recomend using an Acme thread as it advances more per
revolution than the regular threaded rod. It is also better suited for wear
from repetetive use.
There will be a nut welded to each side of the middle cross brace as shown
below
The top of the threaded rod will go through a 3/4" hole in the top cross
brace. as shown below. A washer will be welded to the threaded rod on
the top side.(This will be the surface that will hold the mill head up and
will need to be greased as there will be quite a bit of friction as the
threaded rod is turned to raise and lower the head.)
An upgrade to this would be adding thrust bearings and washers

between this. Another upgrade to replace the welded washer would be a
collar with a locking set screw.

To drive the 2 threaded rods in unison to ensure the head stays level as it
raises and lowers, we are going to connect both threaded rods together
with drive chain and sprockets. The sprocket on each threaded rod is
fixed tightly to the threaded rod (either welded or using a set screw)
The third sprocket is only for adjusting the tension in the chain. The
third sprocket is an idler and is attaches using a bearing (or comes with a
bearing already)
You can use bicycle chain and sprockets for this application, or you can
source the parts new as well. It is important that the 2 spockets on the
threaded rod have the same number of teeth.
To attach the third sprocket you will use a piece of threaded rod that fits
the inside bearing of the sprocket. You will put a washer and a nut on
each side of the bracket that has the slot cut in it. These will sandwich
together to hold it in place once the chain has been tightened to the
desired tension.

Blade guides
The blade guides will be used to support the blade as it cuts through the
wood. I will cover a couple different variations and combinations of
blade guides that can be used.
All options start with the same arms that will be used to hold the guide itself.
The arms will be made to fit the thickeness of the steel angle on the
middle cross brace. They will be able to be moved side to side to
accomodate different log widths.

To make each arm adjustment bracket you will take 2 pieces of 1/4" steel
plate and a piece of 1/4" square stock. The plates will be welded with the
1/4" square stock as a spacer. This will allow the guide arm to slide back
and forth on the middle cross brace.
The locking mechanism is just a nut welded to the plate (with a hole in
the plate for the threaded rod to go through) and a bolt. If you want you
can add a "T" handle to the bolt to make for quicker adjustments without
a wrench.

Guide Option #1
Guide Option #2

Guide Option #1
In this option basically there are 2 roller bearings that will ride on the top
and bottom of the blade (purpose of these is to keep the blade from
diving up or down) and then there is another bearing which will ride on
the back of the blade. This one will prevent the blade from being pushed
back during tougher cuts.
This is pretty self explainatory for the construction of this, just see the
picture above. (bearing sizes can vary depending on what you have or
can get.

Guide Option #2
This option is even simpler...... This is a chunk of brass (hex stock in this
case) and a slot cut in the brass slightly wider than the blade. This is
then mounted on a piece of threaded rod. The threaded rod goes
through a slot that is cut in the guide arm.
This guide will provide support in both directions as well.

The Bunks and Clamps
One of the last steps is to build the bunks and log clamps. The bunks will
put the log high enough so that your blade can reach all the way to the
bottom of the log. The clamps are obviously to hold the log in place while
it's being sawn
For the bunks you will build one on every cross support on your mill.
You can use pipe for the construction of this. (the vertical part of the bunk
can be anything but the horizontal piece needs to be round as the clamp
will pivot on this.

The Clamp
The clamp is a piece of steel angle welded to a piece of pipe that will fit over
the horizontal bar on the bunk. The Collar has a nut and bolt to lock the
clamp in place.
The clamp will be able to slide side to side on the bunk and can also rotate
from front to back. The rotation is what gives the height adjustment in the
clamp
This was just a quick way to make a clamp system, and it worked, but did
take some time to rotate the log each time. I would most likely spend some
time to improve this system to make the clamping and rotating of logs
quicker in the future.

The Guard
Do NOT run the mill until you have built and installed the
guard for the wheels and blade.

The guard is made from sheet metal, and 1" or 3/4" steel angle
can be used to go around the inside edges to strengthen and
provide support to the guard.
The guard can then be attached to brackets that come off of the
middle cross brace. Be sure not to place the brackets to
interfere with the guid arms.

Homemade Bandsawmill Plans HMZ1 2.01

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Home Built Bandsaw Mill Plans

Copyright © 2016 by HomemadeZone.com Page 1 of 50

In addition, our site has an informational and entertainment purpose,

In case you choose to follow the techniques described on

Building the bed

Building the Carriage

The wheel Bearings

Mounting the wheel bearings

The Wheels (Tires)

Sizing the Blade

The Drive axle

The drive pulley

Engine and engine pulley

Raising and lowering mechanism

Guarding the wheels and blade

Log locking Mechanism

Copyright © 2016 by HomemadeZone.com Page 3 of 50

When I am building something I take what I have available, and basically

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Feel free to use whatever you have access to.

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Right end underside view of bed construction

Right underside view of bed construction (Shows attachment

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Bed Material Substitutions

One of my larger builds actually uses an old construction trailer /

So.... think creatively here!

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Note: I would also recommend a gusset plate welded to the front

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The easiest way to get this slot is to mill it on a

step 1) drill (2) 0.25" pilot holes 3" apart

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Even though the measurements may be different for your bolt

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Attaching the mounting bracket and

On the drive wheel bearing side you are going

You will line it up with the end of the cross

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We will hold off on mouting this side until we

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In order to do this you will need to get everything lined up properly

Step 1) Drop the tensioner body in

step 2) Place the wheel bearing

Step 3) In this step we will align the

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NOTE: Depending on your wheel bearing and rim offsets you

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Step 2) Get a rope or string that will not stretch.

For more information on blade sizing and selection go to my site:

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You can watch a video explaining this on my website here: