“Sweet Old Negros Occidental”

Nothing could be sweeter than sugar. Negros Occidental has it in spades, being called the
“Sugarbowl of the Philippines”. It is no wonder the people of Bacolod, its capital, is always smiling –
they’re in a perpetual sugar rush. Hyperbole aside, there is more to Negros Occidental than just the
famous city, sugar and chicken inasal. This travel guide will show you the different attractions in
each part of the province. So better get your sweet tooth ready.

BACOLOD CITY, NEGROS OCCIDENTAL

 Plaza del 6 de Noviembre – other than being the venue of the famous Masskara Festival, a
significant historical event took place in this plaza. It is where the Spanish surrendered the
province to the revolutionaries on November 6, 1898, hence the name. Start off your
adventure by admiring its splendid gardens and fountains.
 Pope John Paul II Tower – Pope John Paul II is probably the most popular pope in history.
He blessed and inspired the faithful during his visits to different parts of the world. The
Bacolodians appreciated the pope’s presence so much that they built a tower in his honor.
The structure stands on the spot where the pontiff held mass and contains memorabilia from
his momentous visit.
 San Sebastian Cathedral – early Christian missionaries were quite fond of the province’s
natives, known as the “Magsungay”. The former relocated the latter to a safer location,
unreachable by Moro pirates. The first structure built in their new home was a small wooden
church. The San Sebastian Cathedral we know today came to be in 1876 when the
Spaniards built a stone church to replace the original wooden one. Both mestizos and
peninsulares donated golden bells, exquisite chairs and other expensive ornaments worthy
of a cathedral.
 Provincial Capitol and Lagoon – Negros Occidental is one of the wealthiest provinces in
the Philippines from the Spanish Era until the 1980’s. This is due to the sugar industry,
whose products are coveted by the occupiers. To honor such prestige, Governor Jose Locsin
ordered the construction of an opulent capitol near the center of Bacolod. Its most prominent
feature is two natives pulling a carabao on opposite ends of the lagoons. This represents
agriculture, the main life blood of the Philippines. Today, the capitol still serves the province.
Its plaza is often used for concerts or events. Martial arts demonstrations and calisthenics
are held there on a regular basis as well. Visitors can also feed the fishes in the lagoon.
 Bacolod White House (New Government Center) – the local government started the
transfer of offices here around 2019. The reason for doing so is to turn the original capitol
into a heritage site or museum. However, the tourists quickly followed suit. Visitors cannot
get enough of its resemblance to the US White House, hence the structure’s popular
nickname. Biking and skating is allowed in the grounds. Shops and food stalls have also
sprung up in front of the Bacolod White House.
 Villa Angela – it is the collective name for the shops and restaurants around the New
Government Center. The “villa” mainly caters to NGC employees and those with business
there. However, tourists are encouraged to visit and perhaps meet the Philippine’s next top
entrepreneur or restaurateur.
 The Boxes – it is a part of Villa Angela so-named for the shipping containers repurposed into
bars, cafes and restaurants. Most of the establishments usually open late in the afternoon
until the wee hours of the morning. Patrons are usually professionals or socialites bonding
after work over dinner or karaoke.
 Negros Museum – it is dedicated to the history and culture of the people of Negros Island.
The exhibits come from archaeologists, historians, artists and other wealthy donors
(showcasing the life, clothing, tools and ornaments of the natives from pre-colonial times to
the present day). Local painters also sell their works in the souvenir shop alongside the
 standard trinkets. Performances are regularly held in the museum café for the enjoyment of
patrons.
 Jojo Vito Designs Gallery and Negros Showroom – no tour will ever be complete without
souvenirs to bring back home. These two places display and sell the best mementos Negros
Occidental has to offer. Jojo Vito showcases the colorful masks used in the famous
Masskara Festival for your appreciation or purchase. They’re even willing to create a custom
mask for customers. On the other hand, the Negros Showroom is the largest emporium of all
the province’s arts, crafts and even furniture. Think of almost any kind of souvenir, most
likely you’ll find it here.
 Chicken Inasal – you’ve probably heard of Bacolod Chicken Inasal or Mang Inasal if you’ve
been in the Philippines for quite a while. Both famous restaurant chains serve the most
popular dish in the whole country. Chicken inasal is roasted chicken marinated in calamansi
juice, soy sauce and pepper (traditional roasted chicken is usually sold as it, no seasonings
or added flavor). The Velez Sisters first sold the recipe in the streets of Bacolod in the 1970’s
before becoming the gastronomical hit it is today.
 Kansi – it is a Visayan dish considered the hybrid of two local dishes, sinigang na baboy
(sour pork soup) and nilagang baka (boiled beef soup). The main ingredient is beef leg or
shank seasoned with batwan and jackfruits for a sour but yummy soup (although tamarinds
can be substituted for batwan since the latter is only endemic to Visayas). The beef part
serves only to distribute the flavor but soft parts of it can be consumed.
 Puto Pao – steamed rice cakes (better known as puto) are a popular delicacy in the
Philippines since pre-colonial days. What sets the puto pao apart is that it looks more like a
meat bun than a rice cake. It is made from egg whites and flour (instead of yeast) and is filled
with either ground pork or minced salted egg. This puto variant was created to mix Chinese
and Filipino tastes together.
 Piyaya – no place can be called a “sugarbowl” if it doesn’t have a signature dessert. In
Bacolod, piyaya is to dessert as chicken inasal is to main course. It is crispy flattened bread
filled with ube and berries. The “burn marks” result from grilling but rest assured that it
doesn’t affect the taste of the delicacy. It even adds a meaty after-taste to it.
 Napoleones – it is another one of Negros Occidental’s signature desserts, a half-foreign
“relative” if you may. French millefeuille pastry inspired this delicacy’s appearance and
creation. According to locals, the dessert supposedly got its name from Naples, Italy, or a
localized version of Napoleon (the name of a famous French leader coincidentally). Like its
French counterpart, Napoleones is made of alternating layers of thin pastry and cream. To
add variety, crushed nuts, almonds or chocolates are sometimes added to these layers.
 Bacolaodiat Festival – Chinese New Year is a holiday celebrated in many Southeast Asian
countries owing to the Chinese’s undeniable influence in the region. However, dragon
dances and fireworks will not suffice for the Bacolodians. They built their very own Imperial
Village where visitors are encouraged to act and dress like the Chinese. Cultural shows and
a food fair are also held there.
 Masskara Festival – the most popular attraction in Negros Occidental is not a place but a
lively festival. Tourists flock to Bacolod every fourth week of October to witness the locals
dancing or parading in the streets while wearing colorful and unique masks and attire.
Pageants are even held for the most beautiful mask and costume. Former mayor Jose
“Digoy” Montalvo conceptualized the festival to cheer up his constituents after a string of
provincial disasters in the 1980’s. It represented the fact that Bacolodians (and in turn, the
Negrenses) will keep on smiling and focused on positive thoughts regardless of adversity.
 Panaad sa Negros Festival – although Masskara Festival is the most popular event in
Negros Occidental, it is not the largest. During April, representatives of each region of the
province gather in Panaad Stadium to showcase their best offerings. Games, pageants and
other forms of friendly competition take place to determine who is the best for that year.
Fortunately no one cries foul and everyone has a good time. The mini-exhibits of each region
is also popular with tourists.
BAGO CITY, NEGROS OCCIDENTAL

 Balay ni Tan Juan – literally means “House of Don Juan” in English and used to be the
home of a Filipino hero, Don Juan Araneta. After his death, his family donated the estate to
the local government. It stood still for many decades until converted into a museum in 1996.
It showcases the life of the Filipino elite during the Spanish and American periods. Other
exhibits include pre-colonial artifacts and massive illustrations depicting native life from the
time of datus to Philippine independence after WWII.
 Buenos Aires Mountain Resort – a historic resort that once served dignitaries and
politicians from the Philippine Commonwealth. Former president Manuel L. Quezon and his
cabinet even stayed in the resort for a week before fleeing to Australia. Afterwards, the
Japanese renovated the place leading to the quasi-East Asian aesthetic it has today. Nothing
much to do here other than swim and sample their ice cream bar and grill stations.
 Kipot Twin Falls – it is a natural paradise on the outskirts of Bago City. Despite its proximity
to an urban center, the forest surrounding the falls has yet to suffer from vandalism and other
adverse effects of urbanization. The main draw of Kipot is that the falls are split into two
parallel cascades. Visitors can even climb atop the rock splitting them for a one of a kind
experience. Those not wanting to get soak can instead climb the viewing platform.
 Pataan Falls Mountain Resort – only a few establishments can claim to own their own
(natural) waterfall and Pataan is one of them. The city’s retired police chief founded the
resort to provide accommodations and food to guests going to Kipot and Pataan. It is not as
big or luxurious as other resorts in the province but offers a splendid view of Pataan Falls
and an excellent waypoint for exploring Negros Occidental’s forests.

VALLADOLID MUNICIPALITY, NEGROS OCCIDENTAL

 Our Lady of Guadalupe Church – it is one of the oldest standing churches in Negros
Island. Barely any renovations have been made into the original façade, except a fresh coat
of paint every few decades. It serves as a testament to the sturdiness of coral rock, the main
material used. However, the altar had to be replaced due to the original one burning down.
The roof and parts of the walls have gaps so don’t be surprised to see some bats and small
birds making the ceiling their home.

LA CARLOTA CITY, NEGROS OCCIDENTAL

 Guintubdan Mountain Resort – it is surrounded by waterfalls on all sides, providing guests

with a magnificent vista. Other than swimming in the pool, you can participate on a guided
trek across the forests or visit the garden containing rare flowers. However, if you’re stressed
out, feel free to look for inner peace in one of the resort’s so-called “meditation cottages”.
 Our Lady of Peach Parish – La Carlota is considered the oldest settlement in Negros
Occidental. Thus, it is only fitting to consider the Our Lady of Peach Parish as the oldest
church in the region. Purpose made red bricks was used in its construction of the church
instead of the usual coral rock.
HINIGARAN MUNICIPALITY, NEGROS OCCIDENTAL

St. Mary Magdalene Church –as a predominantly Roman Catholic country, it is no surprise
that the Philippines is full of churches. Almost of them have been built during the Spanish
Era in an effort to spread Catholicism across the country. St. Mary Magdalene Church is one
of those still standing today and is considered as a cultural treasure of the prestigious
heritage of the 18th century during the Spanish Era. It was built to withstand both
earthquakes and attackers. The façade walls of the church were made from a composition of
stones, corals and bricks, some of which came from the nearby island of Guimaras, remains
the same with the interior renovated every few years while The pillars used came from
nearby places like Paticui and as far as the island of Palawan, which were then transported
to a place known today as Quincihan derived from the wages of the laborers of fifteen
centavos every fifteen days.
As for the workforce that will actually build the church, the residents of the town were
required to render the equivalent of fifteen days free labor every month, and among their
daily tasks was to bring twenty-five eggs a day which were mixed with lime, coral and bricks
that will form the foundation and walls of the church.
When it was finished, the desire of the parish priests of having a semi-baroque, yet simplified
architectural style, was achieved. An antique image of St. Mary Magdalene, which was
brought from Spain by early missionaries, was placed at the top of the main doorway where
it still stands and can be viewed to this time.
History: It was in early 1800s when Spanish missionaries came to Hinigaran to evangelize
and serve the spiritual needs of the residents here. Established in 1848 by Reverend Father
Jose Maria Payon, an Augustinian Priest from Spain, the church is considered as one of the
oldest churches in the country and is one of the lasting legacies of the early missionaries and
residents of this historic town. Back then, there was no physical structure where priests can
celebrate the Holy Mass and so, on November 4, 1848, Fr. Pavon built a temporary church
made of “nipa,” a palm tree with creeping roots, characteristic of mangrove swamps in India
and the Pacific islands, which abundantly grows in various swampy areas in Hinigaran.
Several years later, under the joint efforts of Parish Priests Fr. Jose Ma. Martinez in 1854,
and Fr. Francisco Ayarra in 1868 and the residents of Hinigaran, a more permanent structure
was built. The last Recollect parish priest assigned in Hinigaran was Fr. Melchor Ardanaz in
June 1897 until December 1898. When the Revolution broke out in 1898, the Recollects left
Hinigaran and never returned. After many years, the secular clergy took over the
administration in 1898 and later the Mill Hill fathers from 1907 until 1914. From then on, the
parish was administered by secular clergy of the Diocese of Bacolod.
Today, the beautiful structure of the St. Mary Magdalene Parish Church, as well as the
antique religious statues and items within it, are considered as cultural treasures not only of
Hinigaran but also the entire province of Negros Occidental. It is regarded as a prestigious
heritage of the 18th century during the time of Spanish colonial churches during that era.
 Senator Espiridion Guanco Bridge – named after a Negrense lawmaker, Espiridion
Guanco was senator for three terms, this was 1916 to 1925. Senator Guanco was the son of
Agustin Guanco and Filomena Cordero and was born on December 29, 1874. The bridge is
part of an American effort to develop the municipality during their occupation. It is made of
coral rock and Silay bricks, materials indigenous to the region. The bridge is officially off-
limits due to its age (although locals still cross it from time to time), instead serving as cover
for an oyster farm underneath. A petition has been filed to proclaim it as a national heritage
site.

 Talaba (Oysters) – this mollusk is considered a delicacy in Hinigaran. It can be eaten raw
(along with salt and butter for taste) or used as an ingredient in a variety of dishes. In the
municipality, oysters are often fried and eaten with rice. Oyster cultivation is so prevalent
there that many homes even establish “farms” of their own.

History: Oyster culture in the Philippines began at Hinigaran, Negros Occidental, in 1921. Oyster
or talaba is a popular bivalve delicacy because of its excellent flavor and taste. It is mostly
marketed in the shell as freshly-shucked meat. Some salted oyster or bagoong are made during
peak harvest season. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, proteins and carbohydrates. The shells are
mostly used as raw materials for the manufacture of lime and poultry grit. The shells also serve
as spat collectors for culturing. Mariculture of oysters have been expanding to other areas in the
past years. There are about 5 sq km used for oyster culture ranging from 1,500 m-5,000 sq m in
about 1,300 farms. Oyster farms are located in 17 provinces comprising Regions I, IV and VI.
Major producers are Negros Occidental, Pangasinan and Cavite (Oyster, Commodities Series, No.
64, TLRC 1988). There are little or no available records of oyster preparation exports and data on
consumption. Oysters are mostly consumed near production areas.

Oysters thrive best in brackish to marine waters with salinity ranging from 15-26 ppt at 20-30ºC
water temperature. Viable oyster farming grounds have indigenous species of spawners that are
present. The water should be free from pollution with green to blue-green color. The area
should be free from flooding that may result to 0-10 ppt salinity; this causes heavy mortality and
heavy siltation. Water depth should be at least 1.5-4.0 m at the lowest tide. The bottom is either
hard non-shifting or soft and muddy. Areas for culture must be naturally protected against
strong wind and wave action along landlocked bays or estuaries. Materials for structures should
be readily available and cheap. Preferably, sites should be near markets or centers of population
within 100 km. The presence of endemic seeds or spats in the area is preferred, but seeding or
transplanting of oysters may be undertaken.

Peak natural spatting season or spawning usually occurs in January to February and May to
September. Fertilization of spawned oyster eggs takes place in the water. After hatching, a
planktonic larva emerges and remains in the waters for two to three weeks before settling
down. Spats or seeds about the size of sand grain attach to suitable substrates (like logs, stones,
shells, bottoms, etc.). The most suitable and commonly used spat collectors are empty oyster
shells. After a growth period of one month, the juvenile oysters (young) measure about 1.27 cm
long. Oyster food consists of microorganisms, phytoplankton and organic matter which they
strain or filter out from the water with their gills. This explains why oysters thrive well in fertile
waters. It normally matures after 6-10 months from seeding. Culture period should be started
before spatting season or spatfall. Juvenile oysters can be transplanted to other areas with no
available spats.