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^•#^THE*^ v^
BOOK OF DIAGRAMS.
^
^^
64:5 Vv^EST LAKE STREET,
(Chicago, Illinois.
:v-<o5
9
Til
O
o
LADIES' BASQUE— Continued.
TO DRAFT FRONT.
The front is drafted upon same plan and by same scale used in drafting Back and Side-back.
If waist line has been raised or lowered in drafting Back and Side-Back, raise or lower waist line on
front to correspond.
'l-'^'-'^
H5>J
LADIES' BASQUE—Continued.
SLEEVE.
Use the same scale in drafting both upper and lower part of Sleeve that was used in drafting Back,
Side Back, and Front. This rule has no exception.
'.
y,
:
LADIES' COSTUME.
Is drafted by the scale corresponding with the waist measure. It is in two pieces
Front and Back.
TSE FRONT. P5
The right side is laid in three upward-turning plaits, while the left side is laid in
four backward-turning plaits; press the plaits on the left side, but do not tack them.
leV,
15^-2
LADIES' COSTUME—Continued.
S -^ -X -\,> «^--^ „\
9 t» 00 o M
«^M iO
Ct
i^
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t^
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05
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aais XHOia
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3
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T,
•H ^ «5
^ 3J
GIRL'S COSTUME.
measure.
THE SKIRT
Is shirred and sewed to the waist.
<
^
B Si
(a
i
©
«
H
P4
P
O
2
"^ ^
^
4d
o
%
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ei
Kt
CHILD'S COSTUME— Continued.
1%
1-9
©
iV. 6%
6V«
MISSES' WALKING COSTUME.
THE BASQUE,
Is drafted by the scale corresponding
with the bust measure.
Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Side
Back, Vest Front and two Sleeve por-
tions.
TO MAME BASQUE
Like the figure shows, draft the front
upon the general plan of work.
Trace from 2i on top measure line
down to 11 on base line, then from 11
on base line to 2 on cross measure line
and down to l-J- on cross measure line
at the bottom of the basque. Cut this
out, allowing enough to turn under and
fasten to the Vest Front.
THE BACK
Can be cut plain if preferred.
13% 13
MISSES' WALKING COSTUME— Continued.
— 1
lHj
1
1 1
as
Waist _
88^ 16
Line
1^
1
1 1
as
/ V ^ P
72 V2 esJjj 671/^63 6X>4 QI^6o»4 h\%i9% i!,\AS% i9%Zl\ ^Z%U% i'7^25^ 21^19^8 U%U . 854 »
Top ofSkirt
w
S3
10
LADIES' COSTUME.
THE DH APERY.
Use scale corresponding with waist
measure.
Is in two pieces: Front and Back.
The
right side of the front draper^
is in four upward-turning plaits,
laid
while the left side is laid in four back-
ward-turning plaits.
TV
8S/4
if / 11
^^ 11
p ~3^.5"~r_~ 11V4
/
/;
16 Vs
lx\ If- 19
/1/ i.o.lL
f.-n 1 T. I '
\^' 1 / I / I
Sv.
LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.
^3^4
3V^l_™NT_!6«4
13
GIRLS' GABRIELLE WITH BOX PLAITED SKIRT.
the taste.
TO DRAFT
THE WAIST,
Use scalecorresponding
with the bust measure.
Is in three pieces: Front,
Back and Side Back.
Is drafted upon the gen -
THE JACKET
Is drafted by scale corre-
sponding with the bust
measure.
Is in five pieces : Front,
Back, Side Back, and two
Sleeve portions.
It has a lap on each side
of the side back turning
toward the center of back,
and finished with three
buttons on each side.
THE SKIRT
Is drafted out by the scale
corresponding with the
waist measure.
Only one-half is here .
given.
Is laid in Single Box
Plaits as shown on the
figure.
Can be made of any ma-
terial.
THE SASH
Is of ribbon, or of the same
material as the suit.
^
05 <
•^
^v
>-©
ej
\
^ 0<
C3
-'™'
9]
_^.
Ci<
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i-t
<-
~
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^y^
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\
.,<*
<!£^
'o
t-t
w^
c«
_\r
e> ,
F«^ ^
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©< Use scale corresponding with waist measure.
'®I &3
03
09
'SI
^
08<
2<
05
l_
CO
15
CHILD'S COSTUME.
Is drafte'd out
THE POLOmAJSE
by the scale corresponding with the bust measure
Is in seven pieces, upper and under fronts, upper and under
mm
backs, collar and two sleeve portions.
THE WAIST
Should be closed on the left side with hooks and eyes.
THE BACK
Is draftedand plaited upon the same plan. There are three up-
ward turning plaits in the back drapery.
13 V
CHILD'S COSTUME— Continued.
No.l K
COLLAK
10 4 10
THE SKIRT
Is drafted by the scale corresponding with the waist measure.
iik
to,
©
<
-© H
5z;
u\ 25
LADIES' COSTUME.
TO CUT BASQUE.
Take measure and follow instructions same as in first
basque, in cutting this basque.
The vest part can be of any material desired.
The skirt is drafted by waist measure.
In making the basque, if the lining is all that is cut
as far back as the under arm dart, the vest proper will
have to be stitched firmly upon the lining.
The trimming on the side drapery should be a
straight strip four to six inches wide.
THE DRAPERY
Is cut in two pieces : Uack Drapery and Front Drapery.
Turn eight plaits towards the center in the back
drapery as shown by the numbers on top measure line.
Only one-half the drapery is given, and four plaits are
shown in the part given.
Turn the first plait by laying the notch at 20% on the center, the next
plait by placing 143^ on 19^, 7^ on 133^, and 1 on GJ^. This gives the
plaits on right side. Lay plait on left side the same, and securely fasten
to the band.
Lay four plaits at the side in the same manner, according to the figures
given.
Fasten the right side of the drapery with ornaments, leaving it open
below the last ornament. The left side is fastened all the way down. The
skirt has a plain narrow plaiting at the bottom.
18
LADIES' COSTUME—Continued.
19
LADIES' COSTUME—Continued.
LITTLE GIRL'S DRESS.
THE SKIRT
Is a straight piece of goods or embroidery cut the desired length
and width.
The length can be obtained by the tape measure.
*\"
Collar
2f
4 5 13=^4
81
^ .
S^^S^E^^<^g:'^J£^feV^Lgi;>:j^>trastii-,»J;a«:-^iit- ...
.-* .*
<&,
GIRLS' PLAITED WAIST AND SKIRT— Continued.
Si
ee es
t^I- »»
M
«^ ^ .^
X
i« EC
•J >j
K.N"' 5-" ee
.S« ts
SH )(!> »< p<
ee.
tf>\" cs *.\«
te « »«
«n ©\ 09
ts EC
cs ee
4-*'^ *.\^
ta fcS
to tfe
IS-"-'
'
$9 - n;
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>-»
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tS\P-' th.\«
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t^
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ii* c a
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e
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oc CD
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S^
en
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*• »^
co<
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to
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o H e
7%. 4
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sa M
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t»L vW
ti-*
Vs"
A
LADIES' TEA GOWN.
THE FLAITING
For the laid in fine forward turning plaits and fastened
front is
to the lining, and the upper front is blind stitched over it.
The revers of velvet may be omitted. If preferred lace may
be used with a very pleasing effect.
THE BACK
two double box plaits.
Is laid in
Care sliould be taken to connect waist lines.
Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
Nf -N"
o
84
LADIES' TEA GOWN— Continued.
.
LADIES' POLONAISE.
26
LADIES' POLONAISE— Continued.
.X^xX" ^\-
97
MISSES' COSTUME.
in first basque.
time.
DRAFT FBOKT
by drawing base hne at least three spaces from
diagram.
given; then running the line down to top of first Gather the sleeve, making notches, join at
dart and following first line of dart down to bottom elbow. Collar is a straight band width and length
of basque. desired.
88
MISSES' COSTUME—Continued.
1^43*4 8_//
leV,/ /is^'i
--W 19'/2
MISSES' COSTUME—Continued.
^i.:;Only one-half of each of drapery is here given. Four plaits on each side of waist line of back
Lay plaits in each piece to correspond with numbers drapery. Three at the side of back drapery,
given in draft. Lay seven plaits in side drapery.
FfiONT
Pi
OS to 10 ts K) ts to
©X o oc o kF» t« OS
i^"
^^ ^ ,-^ ^-T'
30
MISSES' COSTUME-Continued.
31
BOYS' PLAIN WAIST AND PANTS.
Is in two pieces: Front and Back. Is in two pieces: Front and Back.
Regulate the length by the use of the tape
measure.
1 vA
© 1
\
j''^'"^
V
i^
H \y^
/•f
/i-i
1^
\ 1
>
^£^
LADIES' WRAP.
1^^/i,
t9
COLLAR \S^'^
jcOLLAl \
Qp"J
2%
14% 13 7V4
ll\
U^/a aiVs
335/0
24%
25%
LADIES' COSTUME.
»0
COLLAR
N0.3E
i >
34
LADIES' COSTUME—Continued.
15%15
LADIES' SKIRT WITH REEDS.
H* CUT DOUBLE
1.*
*5^ ^^
'-i \ ~^ ..^1
IS a K M «» 1
?
1 *^/ 1
«
©
2=
t .
'
^7
-7i ^/
en
tri
X
?'
£=1
i
1
W
1^/
fA
"/
/i
rt> 1
A.
CO
/
1 /
1
*/ /
1
/
\
:)n»ia3Aii03 jsont SI J8ia ijDiiiAi "ijai jo
%\i 9ij .tdi|)i9 apTS
/
B
/ / aro^ii }o-!iao,(l ai{j j)7(i!it
1
/ >-
"•A
tote
" ^
w t© ^
o oo c:
%.T^
*-M
.36
CHILD'S COSTUME.
<6..,
<10
Box Plait
<17'
<
Box Plall
< 25^8
29 V*
<33
Box Halt
37
Use scale corresponding with the bust measure.
Is in five pieces : Front, Back, Vest Front, Collar, and one- < 40U
O
half of the Skirt.
THE VEST 44^<.
Can be made of the same material as the dress, and the Collar Box Plait 3 48«4
made of the contrasting material, if preferred.
^ < 52%
THE SKIRT
Is laid in single box plaits; the trimming may be omitted. 56V2
Half Box Plait
Regulate the length by the tape measure. 58S
V8^^26%
37
LADIES' COSTUME.
TO CUT BASQUE.
Use scale corresponding with bust measure.
Is in eight pieces: Front, Back, Side Back,
Under-arm Gore, Vest, Collar, and two
Sleeve portions.
The vest is sewed in the first dart and in
the shoulder seam, and can be made of vel-
vet or any contrasting color.
The sleeves can be finished at the hand
with a small round cuff of the same material
as the vest, with very pleasing effect.
THE SKIRT
Is drafted by the waist measure, and is in
four pieces: Front, Right and Left Sides,
and Back Drapery.
The front is made of the same material as
the vest and cuffs.
The left side consists of two double box
plaits.
2V4
«Ne» d
? COLLAR A»
3*^//-2«^t=2^a
^he%i%i
A '
1
/ !f
"ifiW!ti
fq crj
3 £ \^
- -8- V-SU
10%
4:%
'\
No.BX\ \ 13%
^\ & 5\
1^' u%
4' ISVa
38
21%
s^^iv^
LADIES' COSTUME—Continued.
'^%i^%W
8^^-81 Q% I'y,
34
/ii
w- -v7- t;; ^7:7 mp V-
S9^i9 ^/^esiios 3TS Lf ^>'x5tSl^ "^xlgJ-gOS^^iSg 8r,|iS 2Z%ZZ %il V18T ^/i§8 %8*8S '^
Topof Jkirt
60
No.BX
c3
o
t-9
52*4 45S 42 40^^37 35% 32 28^^27 23V322 18^4 llVa sViG»/4 3i,lf4 tsVo
J
64Va 62^461»457^a56 A A A A -'A /\ A C
A A A A A A
LADIES' COSTUME—Continued.
-
V V-
^7'//:
S
sc% 33 -^ 25 Va 22^*4
1
Top of Skirt
1
1
1a?
1
- pi
1 o <s
i
§• No.B X
1
ft
1
«
1
a
1^
1
47«/
h'^' —41 &.
/4 37*4 32 27*4 22*^8
\J\ \2\ I,
7 '3-
V-i 43!
^^ c'b
20 3/4
H 19%
O
©
14 V4
P 13^4
W
w
w
w 7%
><1
^sM h- M 1^ o
® o *! f^
^i5 ^S;' ^^ ^
40
LADIES' KITCHEN APRON.
«e CO
00^ oBn ijis.
42
V
f¥i^. A
Back Breadth of Sldvl
litijiP
r^o.F X
^« ;i".si.„„ ~,-^
X n>s No.FX
Collar I-
\ yp.F 1
!;(1 'od" 'H ^I'-in
t>
-'
ifc^ of » » at
«ilV. 37
CO l« l« H* (Z>CC-<1
o OS (-*
»<- »* ^nT
4a
CHILD'S CLOAK.
l«^4
l"/*
preferred.
19 I8V2
19 18 V2
INFANTS' HIGH NECK DRESS.
lP%__..6tV4'
3 1/3
/VJ
/
L
Front Gore
12^4
No.JX
[14
52%
45
LADIES' POLONAISE.
measure.
Is in five pieces : Front, Back, Collar
and two Sleeve portions.
The two fronts are cut together, to
preferred.
of back.
Lay six side plaits on each side, on
cross measure line, running from 32%
on base line to 19% on the opposite
side of draft. When plaited, press
carefully and tack to tape, to stay the
plaits. Omit the tacking at the bottom.
LADIES' POLONAISE— Continued.
11V4
23>
'3
CHILD'S COSTUME.
0. 1
or fourth line drawn from top, for convenience and the plaits
;
^
are marked on front on 33^ measure line, for the same reason.
4^-4 2^4
^8V
*4
-^ •
21^ ^'j
V
48
CHILD'S COSTUME— Continued.
GIRLS' COSTUME.
THE VEST
is sewed in the under-arm dart and at the
shoulders.
14%
50
83%
GIRLS' COSTUME—Continued.
51
LADIES' STREET JACKET.
52
1
CHILD'S COSTUME.
TO CUT JACKET.
Use scale corresponding with bust measure.
THE SKIRT
Is drafted by waist measure, and is in two pieces, half of
s*kirt, and yoke.
There are two double box plaits in skirt; 5^ are
given in plate. Others are made the same.
The Trimming on skirt can be omitted, if desired.
Top of Skirt 4^
No.D X
Plait Plait
Plait Plait
«l-4
68i66'-.653<68li 60l Stt.'jr Slir.sS-SOi-oOVr 4r^443{^ 48'-41?<89j'88 35V»4Ji88?<,29?s 2G'< a6li38«<83i80ll9k 1? 14 45-4 '>
G9ic K<'^
53
CHILD'S CLOAK.
velvet.
5% 5
CO
o^." *\"
B4
CHILD'S OLOAK-Continued.
-<
XaiHS dO JOX
©
Hi
<
^ "
^?
^
la IS
»j Ol
I*''*
5'„-l
(- 5^5
GIRLS* APRON.
5 2i
ec
*+-
'^
tl
1
to
COM y
^
©
>j
>:
.^
\
1
-> 13 \\
1
•
1
1
66
LADIES* NEWMARKET WITH CAPE.
ure.
as the Newmarket.
SI «0
,-* as •>• I>.QO CS 1-4 y-k IH (M
57
LADIES' NEWMARKET.
1*4
sleeves.
58
LADIES' NEWMARKET—Continued.
2%2*'4
S2 21%
5»
LADIES'DWRAP.
*"-<f ,^\"
Ko.BX
Collar
*^r
60
LADIES' WRAP— Continued.
22 C:^--
LADIES' STREET COSTUME.
Sleeve portions.
ward-turning plaits.
ward-turning plaits.
The Back and Side Back is drafted together. The extra fullness in the back is
laid in plaits.
The Back is draped up until it becomes even at the bottom of the skirt,
THE SKIRT
Is cut from the plain skirt given in this issue. Any style of trimming may be
used on the Skirt.
62
LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.
^'- 24V,
19
32
19
08V8
59
61/«
^^
COLLAR
NO. 2 A
LADIES' STREET OOSTUME-Continued.
,3/ ^^^S*-'\2V4 .,
11^^
12V
64
CHILD'S APRON.
?%
9
Si
M
H
o
8\k^-^
28*/.
65
CHILD'S STREET COSTUME.
2%
3/s
H P H
^ P
o fa P W
P4 ©
Ph
P^
P P -117
Vi'alst Hue
NO. 2D
NO. 2.D
2/5
37%
37%
K9%
or
LADIES' SPENCER WAIST.
Use scale 32 to draft this out by. Can be made of any material.
to tS to K) to Ci to to
V
«9 •-] OS 1-1
^
LADIES' SHORT WRAP.
Use scale correspond-
ure.
Is in five pieces:
closely.
notches.
B9
'
CHILD'S CLOAK.
2 /^
U'i
i\ ~V\tL
7%
CHILD'S CLOAK— Continued.
:k
//<» «, I
If
1 iS #1 \
/r
h?
el \
^«\
r 1
\
r1 i\
1
11
29V
~-~—.^ 1
CHILD'S COSTUME.
COLLAR :
NO. 5M
1
Cut Donble 1^
( 1
•<
01
w-
^v»*
>eo '
eo<
.A" w^<»
-"H »o<
-^*'
osN-* oo<
><X>
-i^
=0^ ©<
ft> 11^
«-*
*
>rH
s<
e*-*
>3
^\* •
as e»<
>»H r-i
01 M
J?*
*
>.»l ?<
M
-X**
>o ^^
01 »o<
M
»r
\" «s
ea ^
s<
O
» H4
M
CX2 ej
»» T^<
09
to
fH
o
1
>©9 P>(
1
o
H
i >0
05
^^
ec 1
«e<
09
1
S 1
1" 1
©
>"* e^
06
^ I— -J -*
1
*
-I
>•*
•
=7^ -J
^ ' ^
oi^
«©<
^
C»
^«*
«\"*
<J3 >t4
©,
s^
>S
(S*
r*<
W9 ri^
.W9 "»<
isr
>«©
»o
i><
o kO
T-l . — —^ CO
-§<
«D
HALT OF BOX PLAIT
IN FKONT
/j Inch Scam •^*'
^ «
LADIES' CHEMISE.
*• >— •i!^
^ 2 ts
*-^ - — ^
c
14
*^
^-^-
^4
\ '
Front Yoke i
e^>J
I
1
Ko.G X Im~=r--^.„.^
Sleeve
'^ -_.^____ -l-
1
Al
/11V4 ii
Back
Front
© d
flft IG 33%
_J35 35
w
CHILD'S COMBINATION UNDERGARMENT.
74
CHILD'S COMBINATION— Continued.
75
LADIES' STREET COSTUME.
The Front may be turned away and insert a vest issue. Regulate the length by the use of the tape
if preferable, and also allowance may be made for measure.
plaits in the Back. The diagrams for the wrap is given on page 80.
78
LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.
BACK VIEW.
K) t« ts
>*». t« l-»
^«
LADIES' STREET COSTUME—Continued.
QO
©
--1 -<1 ^1 CS
© ©^'" o es C« 09 to
© to to to at ta
Oi to QO 09 lO •a A
x"" N," x"
l*-^ » th »
19^/a
LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.
- 3Va2%
PS
6k
LADIES' WRAP.
Use scale corresponding with bust measure. The sleeves are loose.
It consists of four pieces: Front, Back, Sleeve Any style of trimming may be used, and almost
and Collar. any material.
This is drafted upon the general plan of work. Find collar for wrap on page 79-
Watch the arrows closely. The design of this wrap is given on page 76 and
Join together according to the notches. 77 (Ladies' Street Costume).
80
CHILD'S STREET COSTUME.
12V
©
Use scale correspouding with the bust ©
measure.
Is in ten pieces : Right and Left Front,
Yoke and Shirring for Front, Bacls, Side
Back, Collar, two Sleeve portions and one-
half of box-plaited Skirt.
THE FRONT.
The dotted line running from 33^ on first
cross measure line down to 4J^ on bottom
line is the lining for the yoke and shirring '40
for vest. After the shirring for the vest is
THE BACK
Is faced with the same material as
the vest front and looped up to form
a bow in center of back. Any style ©
of trimming may be used.
THE SKIRT
Is laid in box plaits.
Regulate length by the tape meas-
ure.
o
so
©
11*4 4^ / - -
Ttr^27
81
1
i '<>
jBos piait
•
< 0%
u
l-H
ii-
©
'
Ph
©
18
Box plait
24
28'4
s
<33
© Box plait
<138%
4a
47Va
Box plait
< Cr/4
Half of l)ox plait
10
82
LADIES' COMBINATION UNDERGARMENT.
measure.
83
BOYS' SUIT.
Knee Pants.
Is drafted on the general plan of work.
Each plait is marked on the draft.
Follow the arrows closely.
THE PANTS
Are drafted by the scale corresponding with the
waist measure.
Regulate the length by the use of the tape
measure.
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BOYS' SUIT.
THE COAT
Is in six pieces : Front, Back,
ing.
MEN'S OVERALLS WITH APRON.
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BOYS' OVERCOAT.
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BOYS' STREET COSTUME.
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each side turning toward centre of back. for front and side plaiting for back part of skirt. Each plait is
Each plait is marked. marked. Regulate the length by the tape measure.
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BOYS' STREET COSTUME—Continued.
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BOYS' COSTUME.
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—
THE COAT.
Use scale corresponding with the chest measure.
Is in five pieces: Front, Back, Collar, and two
Sleeve portions.
This is drafted upon the general plan of work.
THE VEST.
Use scale corresponding with the chest measure.
Is in three pieces: Front, Back and Strap.
THE FJJiTS.
Use scale corresponding with the hip measure.
Is in four pieces: Front, Back, Fly, and Pocket
Facing.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.
BOYS' COSTUME—Continued.
BOYS' COSTUME-Oontinmed.
—
GENTLEMAN'S PANTS.
Take the measure directly over hip joint
this gives the number of scale to use.
Regulate size if the waist and length of
leg by the tape line.
The length of leg can be taken by inseam
measure, or from the hip-joint to sole of shoe. "^
(iXV
GENTLEMAN'S SUIT—Continued.
T^T-
WAIST BAND 45 c
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CHILD'S COSTUME.
This costume, as shown, is suited for
either boy or girl. Draft by chest meas-
ure. Only one-half the skirt is given, as
both sides are alike.
In making up, use half inch seams.
IJ^ spaces for hem on Vest. Sew Vest
on front on line marked on line drawn
from 2^:^ on top measure line to 4 at the
bottom of vest. <
Work the button holes in the right side «»
of the vest, sewing buttons on the left side.
S'
There need be no button holes with bu.t- >M
tons on either side of vest. If desired, a ^-X*"
double row of machine stitching may be ^
used at each side of the front at edge next
to vest.
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The front in draft is made so as to omit Q0<
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vest, if desired, and make plain front. >00 -_^?'
If vest is used, cut goods on line marked ©<
1}^ at neck, and 2% at bottom. e* V*
If plain do not cut on this line, but use
base line for front edge.
The pocket is merely a strip sewed on,
^C0<:
but the pocket can be put in if desired. ^
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If made for a girl, omit pocket. J^
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If desired, narrow braid or machine It
stitching around sleeves to form cuff, gives
the suit a nice finish. In such cases omit
the cuff drafted for it. Lay a box plait in
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front of skirt, making the line 61 to 60% >rH
a o<
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from the cut edge of plait, placing this
line at 56 at the top, and on the point at 57
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at the bottom to form plait. Place 55 on
513^ at top and 553^^ on 51^ at the bottom
to form next plait ; all others are formed J"
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in like manner. ^<
Any other style of plaits desired may be v"
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used. The skirt is a plain strip of goods 54 »o<
length and width desired, and can be cut M
without draft being made and plaits laid
in the goods.
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BOYS' OVERCOAT.
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BOYS' OVERCOAT-Continued.
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GENTLEMEN'S OVERCOAT.
Draft by scale corresponding with Chest measure taken
over the coat.
Regulate length and size of waist by tape line.
Take measure for Sleeve from center of back to knuckle
joint.
Deduct width of back piece —
less one inch for seams-
this gives length of sleeves. length of sleeve by the scale
If „
corresponds with this measure, the length is correct; if not, *
change the scale line at wrist until it corresponds with tape
measure, changing elbow line one-half the distance same 2%'
direction. Regulate length to suit.
*
1
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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS