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Pale Pink Diamonds, Coated Fancy Pink

Article  in  Gems and Gemology · December 2010

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Sally Eaton-Magaña
Gemological Institute of America
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EDITORS
Thomas M. Moses
Shane F. McClure
GIA Laboratory

DIAMOND

Lab Sees Increasing Number


of Large HPHT-Treated
Type IIa Diamonds
It is well known that natural type IIa
brown diamonds can be decolorized
through annealing under high pres-
sure and high temperature (HPHT).
Recent studies have shown that the
annealing process removes vacancy
clusters, which are the cause of brown
coloration. While not all brown dia-
monds are suitable for decolorization,
gem labs frequently see colorless to
Figure 1. The New York lab has been seeing a greater number of relatively
near-colorless HPHT-treated type IIa
large HPHT-treated type IIa diamonds, such as this 18.12 ct round bril-
diamonds, with most under 5 ct. In
liant (left). The hexagonal graphite inclusion it contained (right, magnified
recent weeks, however, the New York
112×) is a good indication of this treatment.
lab has examined an increasing num-
ber of relatively large HPHT-treated
type IIa diamonds, many of them over very likely that this inclusion was One Dapper Diamond
5 ct and some 10+ ct. formed due to graphitization of the
One example is the round-cut Gemological microscopy occasionally
host diamond; its presence and the reveals unusual inclusions that stim-
18.12 ct (17.11 × 17.04 × 10.24 mm) tension fracture are good indications
diamond in figure 1, which was color ulate the imagination and remind the
that this stone was HPHT treated. viewer of landscapes, insects, flowers,
graded F. While many HPHT-treated Careful spectroscopic analysis provid-
diamonds have no observable internal and the like. An unlikely new source
ed confirmation of HPHT treatment. for playful imagery is the DTC
features except for some graining, this HPHT annealing involves a higher
stone contained a tiny hexagonal DiamondView, which reveals a dia-
risk of damaging the diamond than mond’s growth patterns by exposing
graphite inclusion surrounded by a other treatment techniques, so it is
tension fracture (figure 1, right). It is the stone to intense short-wave ultra-
somewhat unusual to see it applied to violet (UV) radiation.
such large stones. It is not clear if this The Carlsbad laboratory recently
increase in the number of large treat- examined an ~1 ct Fancy Deep brown-
Editors’ note: All items were written by staff ed diamonds is a short-term phenom- ish greenish yellow round brilliant to
members of the GIA Laboratory. enon or the beginning of a trend. One determine its origin of color. Initial
possible explanation is that more of examination with a microscope
GEMS & GEMOLOGY, Vol. 46, No. 4, pp. 298–307.
the suitable starting material has be- revealed only a few small clouds, and
© 2010 Gemological Institute of America come available in the market. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spec-
Wuyi Wang troscopy indicated that the diamond

298 LAB NOTES GEMS & GEMOLOGY WINTER 2010


but not to be confused with, the
cuboctahedral growth structure seen
in synthetic diamonds (figure 2, right),
which is more structured and has a
predictable symmetry and geometry.
DiamondView imagery is becom-
ing more widely published because of
the intriguingly complex and even
beautiful compositions of pattern and
color that can be seen in both natural
and synthetic diamonds. Such images
offer yet another perspective on the
fascinating micro-world of gems.
Laura L. Dale

Pale Pink Diamonds,


Figure 2. The DiamondView image at left, which depicts a pattern remi- Coated Fancy Pink
niscent of a necktie, reveals a pseudo-cuboctahedral growth structure
Numerous reports have described dia-
unique to some natural type Ib diamonds. HPHT-grown synthetic dia-
monds that were coated pink, by
monds can show similar structures (right), but the patterns are more
techniques ranging from the ancient
angular and symmetrical due to their controlled artificial growth condi-
practice of “painting” a stone (e.g.,
tions. Fields of view ~7 mm.
Summer 1983 Lab Notes, pp. 112–
113) to sophisticated thin-film coat-
was type Ib. Since almost all HPHT- amused to see a fascinating geometric ings (e.g., A. H. Shen et al., “Serenity
grown synthetic diamonds are type Ib, growth pattern that resembled a man’s coated colored diamonds: Detection
the laboratory often examines the flu- necktie worn around the culet, com- and durability,” Spring 2007 G&G,
orescence patterns of type Ib stones plete with tie clip (figure 2, left). pp. 16–34). Recently, the Carlsbad lab
with the DiamondView when other This fluorescence image reveals a received a 1.50 ct heart shape and a
gemological testing proves insuffi- pseudo-cuboctahedral growth struc- 1.68 ct pear shape (figure 3) that ini-
cient to establish natural or synthetic ture that is unique to some natural tially appeared the equivalent of
origin. However, when this stone was type Ib diamonds and is proof that Fancy pink and Fancy Light pink,
placed in the DiamondView, we were this stone is natural. It is similar to, respectively. Their FTIR and photolu-
minescence (PL) spectra were consis-
tent with type IIa pink diamonds.
Figure 3. A pink coating was detected on this Very Light pink heart However, their Vis-NIR spectra (taken
shape (1.50 ct) and Faint pink pear shape (1.68 ct). The diamonds at low temperature) were anomalous
initially appeared equivalent to Fancy pink and Fancy Light pink, for such stones, which show a broad
respectively (see insets for approximate color representations). band centered at 550 nm. Instead, the
spectra of both displayed peaks cen-
tered at ~505 and 540 nm (e.g., figure
4, top trace). Additional exposure to
the liquid-nitrogen bath decreased the
intensity of these absorption peaks
(e.g., figure 4, middle trace).
Microscopic observation revealed
a nearly imperceptible trace of red-
dish residue on a natural of one of the
diamonds. After both were thorough-
ly cleaned in soapy water and, ulti-
mately, acetone, they were noticeably
lighter in color, indicating they had
been treated with a coating that was
removed by such a solvent.
The cleaned diamonds now

LAB NOTES GEMS & GEMOLOGY WINTER 2010 299


low-temperature annealing to create
suitable concentrations of nitrogen-
VIS-NIR ABSORPTION SPECTRA vacancy (NV) centers, which are
responsible for the pink-to-red color
540
(e.g., Winter 2005 Lab Notes, pp.
341–343). This technique has also
505 been applied to HPHT-grown synthet-
ic diamonds since the 1990s (e.g.,
Initial spectrum T. M. Moses et al., “Two treated-color
synthetic red diamonds seen in the
ABSORBANCE

trade,” Fall 1993 G&G, pp. 182–190).


Retest
However, it appears that some HPHT-
grown synthetic diamonds can be pro-
550
duced with very low controlled nitro-
After cleaning
gen concentrations for a more intense
color appearance with after-growth
treatments.
The 0.20 ct round brilliant in fig-
400 500 600 700 800 900
ure 5 was color graded Intense pur-
plish pink at the New York laborato-
WAVELENGTH (nm) ry. Although there were few internal
inclusions, it had a large surface-
reaching fracture with a cavity on the
Figure 4. The initial Vis-NIR spectrum for the 1.68 ct pear shape (top) table and crown facets. It displayed
was not consistent with a type IIa pink diamond and was weaker strong color zoning, with zones of
when retested after additional exposure to a liquid-nitrogen bath intense pink color, and fluoresced
(center). After all traces of the coating were removed with soapy strong orangy red to both long- and
water and acetone, the spectrum showed the expected 550 nm band short-wave UV radiation.
(bottom). Per standard procedure, all Vis-NIR spectra were collected Our initial observations suggested
at liquid-nitrogen temperature. that this might be one of the multiply
treated natural diamonds described
above. The mid-IR spectrum showed
showed the expected Vis-NIR spectra to the liquid-nitrogen bath. However,
a type Ia diamond with a very low
(e.g., figure 4, bottom trace). When a simple but thorough cleaning with
nitrogen concentration. The UV-Vis
they were color graded a second time, soapy water removed most of the
spectrum, taken with a custom-made
without the coating, the heart shape coating, and acetone removed the
high-resolution UV-Vis spectrometer,
was Very Light pink and the pear rest.
indicated that the pink color was
shape Faint pink—a decrease of sever- Sally Eaton-Magaña
caused by strong NV centers at 575
al color grades for both. Despite a
slight reduction in some broad fluo-
rescence bands, the PL spectra
Figure 5. This 0.20 ct Intense pur-
showed no changes. This was not sur- SYNTHETIC DIAMOND
plish pink round brilliant proved to
prising, as surface treatments are usu- Intense Purplish Pink be a treated synthetic diamond.
ally not detectable with analytical
methods that penetrate deep into the
HPHT-Grown/Treated
diamond, such as FTIR and PL (again, Synthetic Diamond
see Shen et al., 2007). Many of the pink-to-red diamonds
The treatment was undoubtedly currently in the jewelry market owe
meant to intensify the color of these their color to artificial treatment.
pale pink diamonds, likely with the This usually involves natural starting
knowledge that the coating would not material and multiple treatment
be permanent but the hope it would processes, including HPHT annealing
at least last through the grading combined with irradiation and
process. The coating generally with- annealing at relatively low tempera-
stood normal handling with tweezers tures. HPHT annealing can be used to
and cleaning with a gem cloth, and create isolated nitrogen, followed by
some was still present after exposure irradiation to create vacancies, and

300 LAB NOTES GEMS & GEMOLOGY WINTER 2010


dominantly A-form nitrogen. Also
observed was a weak absorption at
1344 cm–1 from isolated nitrogen,
which was responsible for the yellow-
orange color. The UV-Vis absorption
spectrum showed a gradual increase
in absorption from ~570 nm to higher
energies, a typical feature caused by
isolated nitrogen. A moderately
strong, sharp absorption at 793.6 nm,
attributed to a Ni-related defect, was
also recorded, and we observed a
weak peak at 986.2 nm from the H2
defect.
The predominantly A-form nitro-
Figure 6. In the DiamondView, the round brilliant in figure 5 showed a gen and the occurrence of the H2 opti-
subtle synthetic growth structure, which was more obvious on the pavil- cal center strongly suggested growth
ion (left). at a relatively high temperature. An
advantage to high-temperature growth
is that it limits the development of
and 637 nm. These strong vacancy Large (4+ ct) Yellow-Orange growth sectors other than {111}. As a
centers can be produced by HPHT HPHT-Grown Synthetic Diamond result, the color appears more evenly
treatment, and their intensity is relat- distributed. This sample’s size, clarity,
ed to the amount of nitrogen in the Lab-grown diamonds have improved
and vivid, evenly distributed yellow-
diamond. Other features in the visible dramatically in recent years. In the
orange color were exceptional and
spectrum, such as a strong peak at Summer 2010 G&G, W. Wang and
demonstrate continued improvements
595 nm, were indicative of artificial K. S. Moe reported on the first near-
in the HPHT growth technique.
irradiation. All these observations colorless chemical vapor deposition
Subsequently, Gemesis president
confirmed that an irradiation/anneal- (CVD)-grown synthetic diamond over
and CEO Stephen Lux stated that this
ing treatment was involved in intro- 1 ct identified by the New York labo-
was the largest cut stone the compa-
ducing the NV centers, which are ratory (Lab Notes, pp. 143–144). Now
ny had produced (M. Graff, “Gemesis
responsible for the attractive pink we have examined a yellow-orange
to sell lab-grown whites to con-
color. These features are very similar HPHT-grown synthetic diamond (fig-
sumers,” National Jeweler, Nov. 24,
to those observed in natural dia- ure 7) that is also notable for its large
2010).
monds that have undergone multiple size and high quality.
Wuyi Wang and Tom Moses
treatments. The rectangular sample (9.07 ×
However, careful examination 8.54 × 5.98 mm) weighed 4.09 ct,
with the DTC DiamondView making it the largest faceted synthet-
revealed a subtle growth structure ic diamond submitted to the GIA Figure 7. This 4.09 ct HPHT-grown
that was indicative of an HPHT- Laboratory for testing and grading to synthetic diamond was clarity
grown synthetic diamond. Seen face- date. It was color graded Vivid yellow- graded VS1 and color graded Vivid
up, the unusual growth zoning was orange and had notably even color dis- yellow-orange.
suspicious but not definitive, while tribution (color zoning is common in
the pattern seen on the pavilion HPHT synthetic diamonds). Some
showed obvious multi-sectoral syn- strings of black pinpoint inclusions
thetic growth (figure 6). It appeared were seen with the microscope, and
that this synthetic diamond was care- the clarity grade was VS1, which is
fully grown with a very low concen- remarkable for a large synthetic dia-
tration of nitrogen (~1 ppm), but mond. Fluorescence images collected
enough to induce the high concentra- using the DiamondView showed typ-
tion of NV centers during post-growth ical synthetic growth sectors, with
treatments. patterns of varying intensity and
Care is needed to separate these color. These features were more obvi-
types of synthetic pink-to-red dia- ous when viewed through the pavil-
monds from treated natural dia- ion than through the table.
monds. The mid-IR absorption spectrum
Paul Johnson revealed a high concentration of pre-

LAB NOTES GEMS & GEMOLOGY WINTER 2010 301


process. During treatment, an exist-
ing Si impurity could have combined
with other optical centers such as a
vacancy and formed the [Si-V] – defect.
As always, care is required in identi-
fying synthetic diamonds, particular-
ly when post-growth treatment is
involved.
Kyaw Soe Moe and Wuyi Wang

Three Melee-Size
Synthetic Diamonds
Small synthetic diamonds pose a spe-
Figure 8. This 0.30 ct Vivid blue round brilliant (left) was identified as an cial concern in the trade, since they
HPHT-grown synthetic diamond by the growth pattern displayed in the are often mixed in parcels with loose
DiamondView (right). It contained a Si-related defect that usually occurs natural melee and are less likely to be
only in CVD synthetic diamonds and is believed to result from post- sent for a lab report. A Fall 2008 G&G
growth treatment. article, H. Kitawaki et al.’s “Identifi-
cation of melee-size synthetic yellow
diamonds in jewelry” (pp. 202–213),
Silicon-Vacancy Defect those observed in CVD synthetic described the identification of very
Found in Blue HPHT-Grown diamonds. small synthetic diamonds by combin-
Synthetic Diamond This is the first documented [Si-V]– ing analytical techniques with stan-
defect in an HPHT-grown synthetic dard gemological testing. The GIA
Gem-quality type IIb synthetic dia- gem diamond. Its occurrence strongly Laboratory in New York recently
monds, which contain traces of boron suggests some post-growth treatment examined three melee-size yellow
and usually have a blue color, can be
created by both HPHT and CVD
growth processes. The Si-related lat- Figure 9. Sharp emissions at 736.7 and 737.0 nm were detected in
tice defect is widely considered an the 0.30 ct HPHT-grown synthetic diamond’s PL spectrum. These
identifying feature of CVD synthetic lines, assigned to the [Si-V] – lattice defect, correspond closely to
diamond. At the New York lab, how- those observed in CVD synthetic diamonds.
ever, we recently tested an HPHT-
grown synthetic type IIb diamond
that contained this defect. PL SPECTRA
The 0.30 ct round brilliant (4.43 ×
4.33 × 2.67 mm) was color graded 737.0
736.7
Vivid blue (figure 8, left). Like other
HPHT-grown synthetic diamonds, it HPHT synthetic diamond
contained some pinpoint inclusions
and showed uneven color distribu-
tion along growth sectors that were
clearly revealed in DiamondView flu-
INTENSITY

orescence images (figure 8, right).


These were the only internal features
seen. The mid-IR absorption spec-
trum showed a relatively high con-
centration of boron, consistent with
the intense blue coloration. However, CVD synthetic diamond
PL spectroscopy at liquid-nitrogen
temperature using 514 nm laser exci-
tation revealed clear Si-related emis- 728 730 732 734 736 738 740

sion lines. The sharp peaks at 736.7


and 737.0 nm (figure 9), attributed to WAVELENGTH (nm)
a [Si-V]– lattice defect, closely matched

302 LAB NOTES GEMS & GEMOLOGY WINTER 2010


Figure 10. Melee-sized synthetic diamonds such as these (0.009, 0.010, and 0.080 ct) are usually
set in jewelry as accent stones, making them difficult to identify without careful examination.

round brilliants (0.009, 0.010, and synthetic diamonds, which are nor- examined one purple and one green-
0.080 ct) submitted for color origin mally used as accent stones in jewel- ish blue cabochon (26.24 and 6.11 ct)
reports (figure 10) that confirmed how ry. They may require careful exami- manufactured from turquoise, plastic,
challenging the identification of small nation to identify. When standard and metal flakes (figure 12). While
diamonds can be. gemological testing proves inconclu- composite turquoise is becoming
Microscopic examination at high sive, advanced laboratory analysis is increasingly common in the gem
magnification revealed that two of needed. trade, this was the first time we had
the round brilliants contained metal- encountered artificial metallic vein-
lic flux inclusions (that were attracted Jason Darley, Sally Chan, and ing in this material.
to a magnet) and pinpoints, which are Michelle Riley The gemological properties of the
characteristic of synthetic diamond. cabochons—especially the spot RIs of
The third sample showed no inclu- 1.58 (the purple cab) and 1.60 (the
sions indicative of a synthetic. All greenish blue)—were consistent with
three displayed even color zoning, Artificial Metallic Veining in those of impregnated turquoise,
without the hourglass growth struc- MANUFACTURED GEM MATERIALS which can have a refractive index
ture typical of synthetic diamond. The Carlsbad laboratory recently lower than that of untreated material
The three samples were inert to long- (1.61–1.65) due to the plastic impreg-
wave UV radiation and exhibited a nation. When exposed to long-wave
weak-to-moderate chalky yellow Figure 11. This DiamondView UV radiation, the purple cabochon
reaction to short-wave UV. None image of the 0.010 ct sample dis- fluoresced moderate-to-strong orange
showed the cross-shaped green lumi- plays a typical synthetic diamond and the greenish blue cabochon fluo-
nescence typically seen in synthetic growth structure, with much resced weak blue. Microscopic exam-
diamonds when exposed to long- and weaker fluorescence in the {110} ination of the purple cabochon
short-wave UV. With only limited and {113} growth sectors. showed obvious veins of red plastic.
evidence that these were synthetics, Plastic veining was also observed in
we turned to advanced testing. the greenish blue cabochon, but those
Infrared absorption spectroscopy veins appeared colorless. With the
revealed that all three samples were exception of the metallic veining, this
type Ib, as expected for HPHT synthet- purple material was similar to that
ic diamonds, with moderate concen- reported earlier this year (Spring 2010
trations of isolated nitrogen. Exami- Lab Notes, pp. 56–57).
nation with the DTC DiamondView Closer inspection of the metallic
showed growth structures that con- veining in both stones revealed that
firmed they were synthetics, with these veins were actually composed
much weaker fluorescence in the {110} of fine flattened particles of metal sus-
and {113} growth sectors (figure 11). pended in a plastic. These flakes typi-
It is important for the trade to be cally were aligned parallel to the walls
aware of the presence of melee-size of the veins (figure 13) and showed a

LAB NOTES GEMS & GEMOLOGY WINTER 2010 303


factured gem materials. Although we
have only seen this technique in com-
posite turquoise and imitation lapis,
it could be readily applied to other
materials, such as gold-veined quartz
or composite coral. The structure of
the vein, characterized by fine metal
flakes in a plastic suspension, pro-
vides visual evidence that the item
has been manufactured.
Nathan Renfro and Phil Owens

A Rare Natural Green PEARL


Figure 12. Artificial metallic veining is prominent in both of these Natural pearls are quite rare, and
composite turquoise cabochons (6.11 and 26.24 ct). those with a natural green color are
rarer still. Even then, the color tends
to be greenish gray, where gray is the
dominant hue. The Bangkok laborato-
finely foliated structure. Similar- using energy-dispersive X-ray fluores-
ry recently examined a green-gray
appearing material was recently cence (EDXRF) spectroscopy. The yel-
round pearl (figure 15) that measured
reported by G. Choudhary (Summer low metal from the greenish blue
10.35 × 9.98 × 9.18 mm (6.72 ct). The
2010 G&G, pp. 106–113), but the cabochon was identified as copper;
pearl was mounted with a 0.70 ct D-
metallic veining was not identified. also present in the turquoise host
color SI1 diamond in a yellow and
By contrast, natural turquoise occa- were fragments of pyrite. The only
white metal pendant suspended from
sionally contains black or brown element detected in the white metal
a linked chain interspersed with natu-
veins of limonite and also grains of from the purple cabochon was zinc.
ral “seed” pearls.
pyrite. This type of artificial metallic
With client approval, small sam- veining has also been seen recently in
ples were collected from the purple imitation lapis lazuli. Diane Hankin- Figure 14. This 36.43 ct pierced
and greenish blue host material for son loaned GIA a 36.43 ct pierced carving of imitation lapis also
advanced testing. Mid-IR spec- carving of what she assumed to be showed artificial metallic veining
troscopy confirmed that they were natural lapis lazuli (figure 14). The caused by microscopic metallic
turquoise. To identify the metallic testable gemological properties were flakes suspended in a plastic resin
component, we removed small areas in the range of those published for the (inset, magnified 60×). The metal
of those veins and analyzed them natural material, but magnification is a brass alloy
revealed a manufactured structure of composed of
finely ground blue fragments punctu- copper and zinc.
Figure 13. The metallic veins in ated by small areas of brassy metallic
this composite turquoise cabochon veining. Magnification of the veins
are composed of tiny copper flakes revealed the same finely foliated
suspended in a plastic resin. Note structure as in the turquoise veining
the fine foliation of the flakes. described above. EDXRF testing of the
Magnified 60×. vein material confirmed the presence
of both copper and zinc, the major
components of brass. This veining
was obviously used to simulate pyrite
in natural lapis lazuli, and was quite
convincing without magnification.
As the popularity of turquoise and
other affordable ornamental gem
materials grows, there will be an ever-
increasing number of treatments to
make a competitive saleable product.
Adding metallic veining is surprising-
ly effective at creating interesting and
sometimes natural-appearing manu-

304 LAB NOTES GEMS & GEMOLOGY WINTER 2010


tions and thereby establish whether interesting to encounter a combina-
the pearl formed in a saltwater or tion of minerals in a single stone. The
freshwater mollusk. EDXRF detected Carlsbad laboratory recently received
77 ppmw Mn and 2148 ppmw Sr, indi- such a specimen, a 5.59 ct translucent
cating a saltwater origin. dark blue and purple modified trian-
The pearl’s Raman spectrum con- gular step cut that was submitted for
tained a major peak at 1087 cm–1 and identification (figure 17). In addition
a doublet situated at 703.6 and 706.9 to its purple and blue sections, the
cm–1, confirming that the outer stone contained a brown accessory
platelet layer was composed of arago- mineral; overall, it had a slightly lay-
nite, the norm for natural saltwater ered structure (figure 18).
pearls. The pearl’s UV-Vis reflectance The blue and purple sections had
spectrum showed troughs at 229, 282, spot RIs of 1.62 and 1.61, respectively.
343, 489, and 834 nm, extending from In the handheld spectroscope, the blue
the near-infrared through the visible portion displayed a weak 540–580 nm
and UV regions. These features are band and a strong 650–680 nm band,
not found in typical spectra for while the purple section showed a 550
Pinctada margaritifera pearls, which nm band. Raman spectra yielded good
Figure 15. This 10.35 × 9.98 × 9.18 have a reflectance trough at 700 nm. matches with richterite for the blue
mm (6.72 ct) natural pearl had a Because the reaction to long-wave UV mineral, sugilite for the purple miner-
rare untreated green-gray color. did not match that expected for pearls al (consistent with the 550 nm absorp-
from Pteria sterna, the most likely tion band), and aegirine for the brown
mollusk host is Pinctada mazatlani- accessory mineral.
Microscopic examination of the ca, the black-lipped oyster from Baja Richterite (Na[CaNa]Mg5Si8O22[OH]2)
pearl revealed overlapping platelets of California, Mexico. belongs to the amphibole group;
aragonite that varied from green to Kenneth Scarratt blue richterite is a potassium-bearing
blue-green, with none of the artificial version of the mineral. Sugilite
color concentrations at the platelet (KNa2[Fe,Mn,Al]2Li3Si12O30) is from
edges that would indicate dye (figure the milarite group, while aegerine
16). It fluoresced a dull, mottled green Rock Containing (NaFeSi2O6) is in the pyroxene group.
to long-wave UV radiation and was All three minerals have commonali-
RICHTERITE and SUGILITE
inert to short-wave UV. Micro- ties in their chemical composition
radiography revealed the concentric In the laboratory, where we typically
examine homogeneous materials, it is and mode of formation, so finding
growth structures characteristic of them together in one rock is not too
natural origin. We used EDXRF to surprising. The client suggested that
determine the Mn and Sr concentra- Figure 17. This 5.59 ct modified the rock might be from the Wessels
triangular step cut proved to be a mine in South Africa, which is
Figure 16. The surface structure of rock composed primarily of rich- known for yielding potassian rich-
the green-gray natural pearl terite and sugilite. terite and sugilite.
revealed serrated black lines Alethea Inns
against a green background,
denoting the edges of overlapping
platelets of nacre. Magnified 180×. Lead Glass–Filled RUBY Damaged
During Jewelry Repair
Ruby filled with lead glass has been
the source of much concern in the
jewelry industry for several years.
One of the main reasons is that the
filler material is not durable—tests
have shown that it is highly suscepti-
ble to damage from solvents, even rel-
atively mild ones such as lemon juice.
The initial study of the durability of
these stones (S. F. McClure et al.,
“Identification and durability of lead
glass–filled rubies,” Spring 2006

LAB NOTES GEMS & GEMOLOGY WINTER 2010 305


Figure 18. The stone in figure 17 showed a sharp boundary between the blue richterite and purple
sugilite in some areas (left), and an intergrowth (center) or layered structure (right) with brown
aegirine in others. Magnified 15×.

G&G, pp. 22–34) found that jeweler’s stances were not revealed to us, the ing a red substance (possibly ink) to
pickling solution rapidly etched the appearance of the stone suggested it the surface, hoping it would penetrate
lead glass filler at the surface. To pre- was left in the setting during soldering into the fractures (figure 20) and make
vent such damage, we recommended or retipping and subsequently placed them less visible. If that was the
that jewelers remove all rubies treated in a pickling solution for cleaning. intent, it did not succeed.
in this way from their settings before This is standard procedure and usual- Shane F. McClure
undertaking repair procedures. ly will not harm a ruby. As outlined
Of course, to follow that advice above, however, rubies filled with lead
one would first need to know a ruby glass are certain to be damaged, caus-
has been treated by this method. It is ing a significant change in the stone’s Natural SAPPHIRE with a
unfortunate that sometimes a jeweler appearance and a very unhappy client. Sapphire Inclusion
will not examine a stone thoroughly As far as we know, these stones can- Of the many sapphires submitted to
enough or will depend on what the not be retreated once they are dam- the Bangkok laboratory for identifica-
client says about it. Inevitably, this aged; in this case, it appears that some- tion, a 43.05 ct blue cushion cut
practice leads to problems. one tried to hide the damage by apply- received recently proved to be partic-
One such case is illustrated in fig- ularly unusual. The RIs of 1.760 and
ure 19. This ~6 ct ruby was sent to the 1.769, together with a hydrostatic SG
Carlsbad lab because it had been dam- Figure 20. A red substance applied
at the surface of the fractures may of 3.99, identified it as corundum. But
aged during repair procedures and the microscopic observation revealed a
jeweler wanted to know what had have been intended to disguise the
damage to the ruby. Field of view very interesting inclusion.
happened. While the exact circum- Under the crown and just below
~1.1 mm.
the girdle, we found a crystal with the
hexagonal shape typical of sapphire.
Figure 19. This ~6 ct lead
And this inclusion had inclusions of
glass–filled ruby appears to have
its own (figure 21). The area where the
been damaged by immersion in
crystal reached the surface (part had
jeweler’s pickling solution.
been removed during cutting) showed
a uniform luster with the host, sup-
porting its identification as sapphire.
Further examination of both the host
and the included crystal using Raman
microspectroscopy confirmed both
were corundum. The included sap-
phire crystal contained exsolved nee-
dles, many colorless crystals, and
some secondary fluid inclusions (fig-
ure 22). By contrast, the host sapphire
was relatively free of internal features.

306 LAB NOTES GEMS & GEMOLOGY WINTER 2010


Figure 21. This sapphire crystal is Figure 25. Immersed in water, the
included in a 43.05 ct blue sap- 4.85 ct doublet displays different
phire (magnified 20×). colors in the crown and pavilion,
and an abrupt termination of the
fracture at the crown.
A variety of inclusions are com-
mon in sapphires, but included crys-
tals with their own inclusions are sel- Figure 22. At 50× magnification,
more apparent. Also evident in the
dom encountered. This is the first needles, crystals, and secondary
pavilion were gas bubbles and curved
sapphire in sapphire this contributor fluid inclusions can be seen inside
striae, both typical of flame-fusion
has seen. the included sapphire crystal.
synthetic ruby. When viewed with
Garry Du Toit immersion, the two components of
the doublet were obvious (figure 25).
1.760–1.770 on the pavilion. Viewed The two components also reacted
face-up with magnification, the sam- differently to UV radiation. The
SYNTHETIC SPINEL and
ple revealed a single plane of transpar- crown was inert, while the pavilion
SYNTHETIC RUBY Doublet ent, colorless glue with planar gas bub- showed moderate red fluorescence
The Carlsbad lab has seen a number bles (figure 23). The glue layer separat- when exposed to long-wave UV radia-
of corundum doublets over the years, ed a blue crown from a red pavilion. tion. With short-wave UV, the crown
most with natural corundum crowns The separation plane was easily visible showed moderate chalky green fluo-
and synthetic corundum pavilions. in reflected light (figure 24). These rescence, typical of synthetic spinel,
We have also encountered colorless results indicated an assembled stone. while the pavilion had a weak-to-
spinel crowns attached to a variety of The crown showed a slightly dif- moderate red reaction.
materials. ferent luster from the pavilion when It was unclear what gem this dou-
We recently received a 4.85 ct red viewed with reflected light. Com- blet was intended to imitate—per-
specimen for identification. Standard bined with the properties mentioned haps red spinel. We were surprised to
gemological testing produced refrac- above, the curved striae indicated see a doublet with a synthetic crown
tive indices of 1.725 on the crown and synthetic spinel. The pavilion had a and pavilion, since it is unlikely to
large fracture that terminated at the pass for a natural material.
crown, making the doublet even Alethea Inns
Figure 23. These gas bubbles are
trapped in a colorless, transparent
layer of glue along the separation Figure 24. In reflected light, the
plane between the doublet’s two separation plane between crown PHOTO CREDITS
layers. Curved striae from the syn- and pavilion is obvious. Jian Xin (Jae) Liao—1 (left), 5, and 7;
thetic ruby pavilion are also visi- Magnified 40×. Wuyi Wang—1 (right) and 8 (right);
ble. Magnified 22.5×.
Laura L. Dale—2; Robinson McMurtry—
3 and 17; Paul Johnson—6; Sood-Oil
(Judy) Chia—8 (left) and 10; Jason
Darley—11; C. D. Mengason—12, 14,
and 17; Nathan Renfro—13 and 14
(inset); Adirote Sripradist—15; Ken
Scarratt—16; Alethea Inns—18 and
23–25; Shane F. McClure—19 and 20;
Pantaree Lomthong—21 and 22.

LAB NOTES GEMS & GEMOLOGY WINTER 2010 307

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