Professional Documents
Culture Documents
AUSTRALIA
WATCH
SPECIAL
THE COOLEST,
CRAZIEST,
TIMEPIECES
OF THE YEAR
WORLD
CUP
CHAOS
DELAYS, DOUBTS
AND DODGY DEALS
AT RUSSIA 2018
MEET THE
MAN WHO
EXPOSED
FACEBOOK
“THERE’S NO SUCH
THING AS AN INNOCENT A B OY F R OM
WHISTLE - BLOWER.“ OZ WHO BECAME
P44
A LEGEND
SHARPER.
SMARTER.
BETTER.
HUGH
JAckMAN
PRESLEY’S
CHOICE
RAILMASTER
MASTER CHRONOMETER
OMEGA Boutiques
SYDNEY 20 Martin Place • Westfield Bondi Junction
MELBOURNE 179 Collins Street • Chadstone • Crown Casino
BREITLING BOUTIQUE
61 MARKET STREET
SYDNEY
AIR
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Gregory Jewellers Parramatta 02 9633 5500, J Farren Price 02 9231 3299, Kennedy 02 9518 9499, Swiss Concept Sydney 02 9221 6288, Swiss Concept Hurstville 02 9580 8826
The Hour Glass 02 9221 2288, Watches of Switzerland 02 9251 0088 MELBOURNE Kennedy 03 9686 7900, The Hour Glass 03 9650 6988, Watches of Switzerland Melbourne 03 9671 3388
Watches of Switzerland International Airport 03 9338 0882 BRISBANE JR Watch Co. International Airport 07 3860 1333, Langfords Jewellers 07 3210 0614
The Hour Glass 07 3221 9133 ADELAIDE J Farren-Price 08 8223 2787 PERTH Kennedy 08 6169 3695, Smales Jewellers 08 9382 3222, Watches of Switzerland 08 9322 8800
ON THE
COVER 2018
AUSTRALIA
WATCH
SPECIAL
THE COOLEST
CRAZIEST
TIMEPIECES
OF THE YEAR
WORLD
CUP
CHAOS
DELAYS DOUBTS
AND DODGY DEALS
AT RUSSIA 2018
MEET THE
MAN WHO
EXPOSED
FACEBOOK
THERE S NO SUCH
TH NG AS AN INNOCENT A B OY F R OM
WHISTLE-BLOWER.“ OZ WHO BECAME
P44
A LEGEND
SHARPER.
SMARTER.
BETTER.
HUGH
JAckMAN
JUNE•JULY
P49 J U N E / J U LY
CONTENTS P118
P173
2 9 TH E B R I E F
4 2 TH E COLUM N I ST
Dan Rookwood is
P84 (slowly) coming round
to veganism.
4 4 GQ&A
Cambridge Analytica
whistleblower,
Christopher Wylie,
is ready to talk.
5 9 GQ ST YLE
How to dress for winter;
elevate your essentials.
8 1 GQ WATC H
SPEC IAL
P54
Wrapping up the
best of 2018 so far.
1 1 8 CARS
The McLaren ‘720S’
is a beast; test driving
the new German-made
Commodore; Alfa
Romeo’s return to form.
1 2 5 GQ I N C
Learn the secrets to
getting the most out
of festivals of ideas.
1 7 3 GQ FIT
The right way
to start cycling;
P68 how surfers stay
fit on tour.
JUNE•JULY
T H E EDITOR
LETTER
O nce upon a time, a legacy was exclusive to
people in positions of power. They were
stories written into the history books as
gospel, celebrated and unchallenged.
Today, a lot has changed. For a start, we’re all shaping
our legacies, all the time. And everything is challenged.
Social media is a modern-day ‘source’ to document
it’s been controversy after
controversy. As a sporting
purist, I’m hopeful the
tournament is a success
and soccer wins. But maybe
that’s naïve. For a more
in-depth look at who’ll be the
history, which is as scary as it is wonderful. It’s meant winners and losers, go to p166.
legacies are less about egotistical accolades and more As well as all our favourite
about the impact we can have on the broader society. new releases from Baselworld,
It got me thinking, as we gear up to celebrate our 2018 Watch Special
our 20th birthday later this year, it’s less about deining focuses on how brands steeped
GQ Australia’s place in history, and more about how we in heritage can be relevant to
can celebrate others who are making a positive change. the younger generations. It’s interesting to
Not many Australians are creating a legacy quite witness the ensuing revolution, with many brands JACKMAN’S
like Hugh Jackman who this month marks his ifth placing their futures in the hands of new super GQ COVERS
appearance on our cover (see right). A respected CEOs. And be it Chopard’s pledge to only use IF ONLY WE COULD ALL
Oscar-nominated actor on screen and stage, he uses ethical gold, or Breitling and Blancpain’s (separate) AGE AS WELL AS THE
AUSTRALIAN LEGEND.
his proile to promote meaningful causes – be it quests to focus on water conservation initiatives,
AWARD WINNING
UNICEF’s Workout for Water initiative or R U the legacies are being re-written, for the better. 2008
MEN
COLLECTOR’S SSUE!
OF
OK? Day. He’s ighting it, a model parent/husband Another sector where legacies live long in the THE
YEAR
2008
and has always been a brilliant spokesperson for his memory is politics, so be sure to read our Agenda PAGES
OF
FEATURING
THE
LEADERS
OF THE
PACK
COOL
country in Hollywood (even if he’s never appeared on piece (p26), written by Jordon Steele-John, Australia’s
MATTHEW
TO KICKSTART MITCHAM
THE PRESETS
YOUR SUMMER KERRY O BRIEN
DAN EL
GET WET MACPHERSON
WE POOL PARTY BAZ LUHRMANN
WITH MEGAN FOX WIL ANDERSON
Home and Away or Neighbours). While you digest that youngest ever Senator. Remember the name. Straight
GRANT SM LL E
HEATH’S UNDERBELLY
LEGACY
A TR BUTE
FROM H S
FATHER
last bit, lick to p138 and get stuck into our interview from his appointment in November 2017, he’s HOW TO
BUY A WATCH
with the Audi and Montblanc ambassador, where he challenged the status quo on government support 2010
relects on the power of the #MeToo movement and for our budding gaming industry and believes the
considers his stance on forgiveness. minimum age for voting should be 16, not 18.
Continuing with this theme, we were keen to proile He is making politics cool as well as relatable
someone who’s spoken out about something they and our future needs more politicians like him.
believe is for the greater good of society. So we spent an Lastly, thanks to all involved in the inaugural AUSTRALIA’S AWARD-WINNING MEN’S MAGAZINE
THE LUXE
ISSUE
2012
afternoon with Christopher Wylie – the man responsible GQ Gentlemen’s Ball, presented by Penfolds Max’s –
PAGES OF
for putting Facebook’s Mark Zuckerberg in front of the we are excited by the momentum building around STRIP
THE FAT!
A COVER
MODEL
THE GOOD
LIFE
BODY IN
US Senate. My mother has always been wary about our aim to celebrate the next generation of pioneers. TEN STEPS
(PAGE 143)
ALAN JOYCE
THE MAN WHO The 2012
GROUNDED GQ MEN
sharing personal details online, and though my siblings Because if there’s any legacy to be created here, that’s
QANTAS of STYLE and
SUBSTANCE
GQ from RYAN
WATCH GOSLING to
THIS YEAR’S
MUST HAVE BOB HAWKE
and I have made fun of her for this for years, what Wylie not a bad one – combined with ensuring Australian
GUIDE TO
DIALS WITH SUPER
STYLE
NERDS
PHOTOGRAPHY: GIUSEPPE SANTAMARIA.
MEET THE
THE FUTURE ISSUE
reveals certainly makes you think twice. It is scary to men are as stylish as any, of course. 2013 AUSTRALIA FORTUNE
TELLING
wonder how such intel is being harvested to manipulate 10 YOUNG STARS
WHO’LL BE BIG
NEWS SOON
our lives. And before you question the Canadian’s motive 135
WAYS TO
FUTURE PROOF
HOW TO GET
YOUR EMAIL
READ BY
ANYONE
GQ INC
if you knew it would change your life forever? ON SET AND UP CLOSE WITH
THE WOLVERINE
PLUS GIRLS
SPACE TRAVEL | TEQUILA | UNDERWATER EXERCISE | AARON PAUL
| SMART PILLS | AUSTRALIA S HOTTEST BARS | SHOELACES
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INTERNS
Jessica Campbell, Joshua Lee, Omar Merced, Matthew Olivieri, Jenny Zhang.
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AUSTRALIA magazine is published by NewsLifeMedia (ACN 088 923 906), Level 1, 2 Holt Street, Surry Hills, NSW 2010. NewsLifeMedia is a wholly owned subsidiary of News Limited (ACN 007 871 178).
Copyright 2018 by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. Address: 2 Holt Street, Surry Hills, NSW 2010. Tel: (02) 9288 3000. Email: editorial@gq.com.au Advertising tel: (02) 9353 6666, fax: (02) 9353 6600.
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WORLD
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CHAOS
DELAYS, DOUBTS
AND DODGY DEALS
AT RUSSIA 2018
MEET THE
MAN WHO
EXPOSED
FACEBOOK
“THERE’S NO SUCH
THING AS AN INNOCENT
WHISTLE-BLOWER.“
P44
A B OY F R
OZ WHO BECA
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MEN’S
FASHION
WEEKS HIT
EUROPE
Worn, sorted and curated.
Discover this season’s best
men’s fashion from the world’s
leading designers during the
European shows this June
and July. From outerwear and
sports luxe to edgy suiting and
linen tailoring, we’ll be sitting
front row at the men’s shows
as well as propping up the
bars at the brightest parties
across London, Paris and
Milan fashion weeks.
GQ INSIDERS
Our home-grown style
DISSECT STREET
community will be out on the THE RUNWAY
Our fashion editor will be
STYLE
Our photographers will
streets in their finest threads
and reporting back on the shining a light on the key be snapping the
weird and wonderful styles looks and trends from best-dressed men of
spotted outside the shows. the runway shows. the week, showcased
on GQ.com.au
GQ DIRECTORY Want to know where to go and who to see? Then check out the Directory on GQ.COM.AU
J U N E /J U LY
Is Jackman as much of
a gent as everyone says?
Annoyingly so - his
thoughtfulness and presence
have always been welcome
constants since the first
time speaking to him.
He turns 50 this year – give
you any tips on handling the
milestone with grace?
He reckons he never looks
back - and it’s not a bad way
to be given there’s little you
can do to alter the past.
You’ve been with GQ for a
good few years now – in what
ways has the brand changed
over the past 20 years?
While GQ’s often updated
itself it’s never deviated
from its core, original ethos
- to entertain, engage and
educate via unique and
spirited content.
What else are you working on?
Because the world needs
another guidebook on
modern masculinity, I’ve got
one coming this September.
There’s also a small TV
heading to Russia? that he should have series in the offing and life
Learn the Russian gone yonks ago, but to be lived away from work,
alphabet. It doesn’t 22 years! In one job! which is why I’ve joined an
take very much time People don’t even underground pétanque club.
at all, and you’d be stay married for that
astonished just how long these days.
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 25
THE AGENDA
BY SENATOR JORDON STEELE- JOHN
26 G Q .COM . AU J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8
Le Petit Prince® The Little Prince® © Antoine de Saint Exupéry Estate. Licensed by LPP612.
1300 36 4810
Sydney · Melbourne · Brisbane · Perth
T WO HUNDRED YEARS of AMERICAN STYLE
The
hit
list
F I V E T H I N G S TO
TA K E YO U R M I N D
OFF WINTER.
HIGH PERFORMANCE SUITS
WWW.FARAGE.COM.AU
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T H E
O F P I T T I U O M O , T A K I N G P L A C E I N F L O R E N C E , I T A LY. J U N E 1 2 - 1 5 ; P I T T I M M A G I N E . C O M
Moncler Genius
I N D I E S O N G S T R E S S S T. V I N C E N T W I L L B R I N G H E R E C L E C T I C B L E N D O F P O P T O SY D N E Y
T H E
F O R V I V I D , P L A Y I N G A O N E - O F F S H O W A T C A R R I A G E W O R K S O N J U N E 1 7 ; V I V I D S Y D N E Y. C O M
BREAKTHROUGH
The next
big thing
ON TOP OF JURASSIC
WORLD, SMITH WILL
STAR IN DETECTIVE
PIKACHU ALONGSIDE
RYAN REYNOLDS, SET
FOR RELEASE IN 2019.
R A I S I N G A W A R E N E S S A N D F A C I L I T A T I N G C O N V E R S A T I O N A R O U N D T H E H E A LT H A N D W E L L B E I N G O F
T H E
B L O K E S , M E N ’ S H E A L T H W E E K W I L L R U N F R O M J U N E 1 1 - 1 7 ; M E N S H E A LT H W E E K . O R G . A U
BOOKS PHOTOGRAPHY
MUSIC
“I had to
make a lot
of mistakes
in front of
people to get
to where I am”
T H E B I T T E R S W E E T A N D B R U T A L LY H O N E S T H U M O U R O F D A V I D S E D A R I S I S E N C A P S U L A T E D M O S T
T H E
P R O F O U N D LY I N H I S N E W C O L L E C T I O N O F P E R S O N A L E S S A Y S , C A LY P S O , O U T N O W .
T he announcement could
barely have been more
exciting. Melbourne’s NGV
revealed it was teaming up
with the Museum of Modern Art in
New York to bring some of the world’s
most famous artworks to Australia.
That was the good news. The bad
news was that this was in June 2016
– a full two years before the exhibition
was actually set to open its doors.
But now the wait has finally paid off,
with the arrival of MoMA at NGV: 130
Years of Modern and Contemporary
Art, the centrepiece in the Melbourne
Winter Masterpieces series. In all,
more than 200 works have been
drawn from all six of the MoMA’s
curatorial departments: architecture
and design, drawings and prints, film,
media and performance art, painting
and sculpture and photography. Until
October, pieces by Salvador Dalí, Andy
Warhol, Pablo Picasso, Jeff Koons,
Frida Kahlo, Agnes Martin and Cindy
Sherman (plus many, many more)
will fill the entire ground floor of NGV
international. Impressive stuff.
MOMA AT NGV: 130 YEARS OF MODERN
AND CONTEMPORARY ART, JUNE
ART 9-OCTOBER 7; NGV.MELBOURNE
DESIGN
Sydney’s
stylish
new stay
in the
detail
In the early
‘50s, Swiss-born
architect Le
Corbusier was
charged with the
ambitious project
of planning an
entire Indian city.
His vision included
unique furniture
by his cousin,
Pierre Jeanneret,
and many of the
pieces have gone
on to become
priceless classics -
so this coffee book
may be your best
chance of getting
your hands on
any of it.
APPROX. $260;
ASSOULINE.COM
A F T E R R E P O R T E D LY ‘ B R E A K I N G N E T F L I X ’ D U R I N G T H E O P E N I N G W E E K E N D O F I T S F I R S T S E R I E S ,
T H E
T H E H O T LY A N T I C I P A T E D S E C O N D S E A S O N O F M A R V E L’ S L U K E C A G E W I L L P R E M I E R E O N J U N E 2 2 .
FILM
The best
and worst
film sequels
CRITICS LOVED
BEFORE
SUNSET (2004)
BLADE RUNNER
2049 (2017)
SHREK 2
TERMINATOR 2 (2004)
(1991)
BOX OFFICE FLOP
BOX OFFICE H IT
ADDAMS FAMILY
NEIGHBOURS 2:
VALUES (1993)
SORORITY RISING (2016)
GREASE 2
(1982)
SPEED 2:
STAYING CRUISE
ALIVE (1983) CONTROL
(1997)
ZOOLANDER 2
(2016) SEX AND
THE CITY 2 (2010)
C R I T I C S L OAT H E D
EXPOSURE
The exhibition
featured some of the
most iconic examples
of men’s fashion over
the past 300 years.
REIGNING MEN
LAUNCH C E L E B R AT I N G T H E LO N G A N D D I V E R S E
H I S TO RY O F M E N ’ S FAS H I O N .
And the festivities didn’t disappoint. With a multi-million dollar display consisting
of three exclusive tailor-made Ferraris on show – as well as a pop-up workspace offering
guests a live glimpse into the making of an IWC watch – those in attendance were
treated to a diverse celebration of men’s style in its many iterations. Reigning Men
features more than 130 outits, charting some 300 years of menswear, and is
curated in partnership with the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
On display at the Powerhouse Museum until October 14; maas.museum
VAN HEUSEN
MENTORS
FROM TOP
Adam Baidawi and Alexandra
Marxsen; Dalton Graham with
Mike Christensen; Besart Berisha
with Carl Valeri and guest;
Cyril Rioli being interviewed.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
Roberto Malizia and Shaun
Birley; Max Kruse and GQ
Insider Josh Bozin; Scotty
James; Longsong Bar in
Melbourne; the Van Heusen
Mentors panel.
Two years ago, suiting label Van Heusen launched its irst Mentors
campaign, aimed at inspiring Aussie men to not just look good,
but feel it too. And it clearly made an impact. Because following
the success of the irst instalment – which featured, among others,
surf legend Mick Fanning – Van Heusen has brought its Mentors
campaign back, with a fresh array of talent. To celebrate the
launch and meet Van Heusen’s new list of mentors, GQ partnered
with the brand for an exclusive panel discussion at Melbourne’s
suitably stylish Longsong Bar. Joining GQ’s Mike Christensen
on stage were some of Van Heusen’s new mentors, including
Olympic medallist Scotty James, tech pioneer Stuart B Richardson,
Hawthorne’s Cyril Rioli and A-league icon Besart Berisha who
were there to relect on their achievements and share a few secrets
to their success. Rounding out Van Heusen’s list of mentors for
the current campaign are the likes of James Magnussen, activist
and lawyer Deng Adut, Aussie cricketer Mitchell Starc and
paralympian Kurt Fearnley. Not only are they among Australia’s
most accomplished individuals, but they also happen to scrub
up pretty well in a nice suit – Van Heusen, of course.
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 41
THE DAN ROOKWOOD
H ow do
you know
if someone
is vegan?
Don’t worry – they’ll
tell you soon enough.
Those who practise
green gospel. There are
cookbooks and pretty
bloggers and 60m #vegan
posts on Instagram. And
we have all binged on an
unbalanced diet of Netlix
shockumentaries in the
veganism typically do past couple of years. Food,
so with a quasi-religious Inc. is a powerful and
zeal that even the average persuasive polemic that
Scientologist would ind has converted me to
a bit much. Vegangelists organic produce for life.
commune around the Cowspiracy and particularly
ofice kitchenette What The Health ram
competitively swapping veganism so far down the
anecdotes about how viewer’s throat, however,
amazing they feel they are much more
as they chow down dificult to swallow.
unconvincingly on All tongue-in-cheek
some plant-based mulch. cynicism aside, I totally get
This circle can be a bit it. People are increasingly
intimidating to breach as embracing a plant-based
you reheat last night’s lasagne in diet for entirely valid reasons. Many of us,
the microwave. ‘Don’t mind me
and my tasty plate of indeterminate
PICKING myself included, live with the cognitive
dissonance caused by eating meat and yet
minced cow/pig parts!’ A FIGHT being opposed to animal cruelty.
What the vegan diet may lack in things like
vitamin B12, calcium, iron and lavour, it more
WITH VEGANS Then there’s the environmental impact:
on average it takes 5kg of grain to produce
than makes up for in smugness. 1kg of meat, and one study by the United
Just kidding. Some of my best friends This isn’t a fad diet; it’s a cultural Nations Food and Agriculture Organization
are vegans. Where I work, Whole30 – movement. Australia is the third-fastest attributed 18 per cent of all greenhouse
the paramilitary wing of vegan-extremism growing vegan market in the world, gas emissions to the livestock industry.
– has been sweeping the ofice like a wasting according to market researcher Plus, of course, there are serious health
plague. Popping out to grab a quick coffee Euromonitor International. In August 2016 considerations to weigh up. In 2015 when the
with a vegan often turns into a discussion a survey by Roy Morgan Research found World Health Organization released its
with the barista about the various non-dairy that 2.1 million people living in Australia landmark report denouncing bacon, hot dogs,
milks on offer. It’s literally nuts. Ordering say they ate a complete or mainly vegetarian sausages, ham and other types of processed
food at restaurants with strict vegans diet, with the highest proportion in Sydney meat as carcinogens, people took notice.
can sap you of the will to live – or to (14.4 per cent). It’s a fair bet this igure will With the exceptions of Morris dancing
let them live. have shot up since. The number of vegans and incest, it’s hard to dismiss something
When I was growing up, vegetarians in the UK, meanwhile, has mushroomed by unless you’ve tried it. I gave a paleo diet a
(as they were then collectively known) 700 per cent in the past two years, up from go for a while but full-on veganism just isn’t
PHOTOGRAPHY: GIUSEPPE SANTAMARIA .
were eyed with suspicion and treated with 540,000 to 3.5 million. Throw another tofu for me. A true Pom, I need cow’s milk in my
disdain. The veggie option on the menu was kebab on the barbie. tea and there’s no facon way I’m giving up
invariably a solitary box-ticker called a nut You used to be able to spot a vegan a mile my full English. I have a Pavlovian response
roast that looked like the bottom of a budgie off – if not smell them. But the musty-crusty to the smell of bacon. That response being:
cage and probably tasted worse. (Can’t say Byron Bay stereotype is changing. I eat it.
I’ve ever tried either.) According to the Vegan Society in the UK, I am genuinely trying to pork out less
These days it’s a totally different story. 42 per cent of vegans are millennials aged though. So I’m giving serious thought to
Veganism has gone fully mainstream. There between 15 and 34. This generational shift becoming a ‘lexitarian’, a person who eats
are vegan restaurants and cafes sprouting up is largely inluenced by popular culture. meat only on special occasions. It’s just that
everywhere. Supermarkets have entire aisles A-list stars of sport and entertainment from there are still quite a lot of special occasions.
dedicated to vegan produce. Tom Brady to Brad Pitt are spreading the Like hangovers. And weekdays.
42 G Q .COM . AU J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8
W O R D S MAT THA BUSBY GQ: Why?
CW: I was threatened with legal action from
a billionaire-backed company run by Steve
Bannon and I’d been forced to sign a
conidentiality agreement because they
WYLIE
CW: I’ve been attacked physically several
times in the streets by people who seemed
genuinely upset at the information that has
come out. I’ve had all kinds of weird things
happen to me – threatening messages, people
yelling at me and getting physical. I was even
H I S FAC E B O O K R E V E L AT I O N S T R I G G E R E D A N I N T E R N AT I O N A L pushed into oncoming trafic.
D E B AT E A B O U T H O W C O M PA N I E S U S E P E R S O N A L DATA . N O W, T H E
GQ: By whom?
M A N W H O H E L P E D C R E AT E S T E V E B A N N O N ’S P SYC H O LOG I CAL
WAR FAR E TOO L I S R E ADY TO ATO N E FO R H I S AC TI O N S . CW: There are two types of people who don’t
like the stories. People who are disgusted by
the way the company operated in abusing
privacy, and people who are upset by me
questioning the validity of the EU
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 45
CW: I grew up challenging authority and got to measure culture and create a way to the people that campaigns often target
into politics at a young age. It had quite a determine how effective the cultural irst with the disinformation. If you capture
foundational role in how I engage with the intervention is. To create a measurable enough of those people that information starts
world because if I think something is wrong unit of culture you can evaluate people’s to spread, like if you infect someone with a
I’ll go and challenge it. psychological disposition, their biographic disease they become a vector for that disease.
GQ: How did you get into data analytics? history and their socioeconomic environment. GQ: Could Trump’s election have happened
CW: I’d always been interested in Then, all of a sudden, culture is quantiied and without CA?
programming and computers – I grew up manageable – and if you want to shift it you’d CW: It’s impossible to say if Trump could have
coding and building websites. When I moved be able to create a list of the exact types of happened without any particular factor –
to Ottawa in 2006, as a teenager, I started people that you would need to push one way Hillary, Bannon, The Apprentice – because there
volunteering for the Liberal Party and then or the other to facilitate that change. was a pooling of factors. But I genuinely think
there was a job opening with an MP. I was GQ: So you set up CA to provide a means CA played a signiicant role and if I didn’t I
given a lot of responsibility for digital, tech, with which to achieve this cultural shift? wouldn’t be talking about it. We often had
data and social media. Email was still almost CW: The original idea behind CA was to use unstructured conversations with random
an avant-garde campaigning technique, let people’s data to create a representation of groups of people where certain ideas, words and
alone social media. I then did a secondment on society and social physics. When you can phrases would emerge. That’s how ‘drain the
the Obama campaign in 2008. I learnt how predict the future you can create it. swamp’ was devised. It came from voters saying
some campaigns, behind the brilliant speeches GQ: What is Bannon like, personally? that or describing Washington as a swamp,
and cool YouTube videos, are as much about CW: You can have an informed, insightful since DC literally used to be illed with
infrastructure – data modelling, targeting and conversation with him about intersectional swamps. People in focus groups also spoke
analytics – as they are about branding. feminism and he intuitively understands about building walls. We found that people
GQ: How did that differ from the identity and culture in a way that I haven’t who have more sceptical views on immigration
Trump campaign? seen from other political strategists or were both more conscientious and neurotic and
CW: The messaging and the so, for them, the whole idea of building a
positioning was obviously different, but wall provides an effective solution. Later
it used many of the same fundamentals
in terms of targeting. People didn’t take
the Trump campaign seriously because “When you on, ‘build the wall’ became another of the
key messages of Trump’s campaign.
GQ: So would you say CA is your
it seemed so insane and antithetical
to conventional political wisdom.
However, one of the things I learnt
can predict the Frankenstein’s monster?
CW: Oh, absolutely. At the time I thought
there was huge potential for modelling
at CA is that many small, discrete
populations respond to some pretty
bizarre things and if you weave
future you can society for the better but I let my extreme
curiosity cloud my judgement and
common sense.
them together you can create
a foundation for a campaign.
GQ: When did you go to Strategic
create it.” GQ: Will companies continue to push
the boundaries of what’s legal and
conventional, in terms of people’s data?
CW: The integration of technology
Communication Laboratories,
CA’s parent company? advisors. But when [billionaire investor] and data in our lives is on an upward trajectory.
CW: At the end of 2012 – they offered me Robert Mercer invested $20m into CA, Data is soon going to start inluencing our
the freedom to explore some cool but all of a sudden he became our director and physical space and this will open up all kinds
maybe crazy ideas, which I hadn’t had the he operates very differently as a boss. He is of opportunities for bad actors to exploit
opportunity to do before. They wanted to an incredibly aggressive individual and he and get in contact with people.
do all kinds of research: understanding instantly created a toxic culture within the GQ: How does it feel to have triggered such
cyberspace, how to use data to make company – he was absolutely militant in what a storm in tech around data and privacy?
psychological proiles and how you can map he wanted to do to American society. We CW: I’m optimistic this will have a lasting
out the spread of ideas online. This itted in started researching constructs that didn’t impact. Mark Zuckerberg testiied at the
very nicely with the stuff I interested me. feel were respectful of basic elements of Senate – despite how bad some of the
GQ: How did SCL morph into CA? democratic norms, such as misleading questions were, and how ignorant some of the
CW: A couple of months after I started narratives and rumour campaigns, which Senators were – and now Facebook is
at SCL, I got introduced to ‘Steve from are incongruent with the democratic process. attempting to change its policies and improve
America’. He was really interested in culture GQ: What’s the key to spreading fake news? its privacy practices, it’s not doing it well, but
change and how politics lows from culture. CW: You embed disinformation into as many at least it’s on the table. More broadly, this
GQ: This was Steve Bannon. Did you agree streams of information around your target as is a wake-up call to the tech sector to tone
with him, about the association between possible. The beneit of targeting is that you down the arrogant behaviour, which a lot
politics and culture? can ind the type of people in your population of companies – not just Facebook – have
CW: The observation is correct. If you who are more prone to believing things than engaged in with userbases. People don’t like
want enduring change you need to create others. This can be proiled using social data. being taken for fools and having their rights
a cultural, not a political shift. I told him For instance, people who are more susceptible abused. The sector needs to realise that it
that you need to be able to deine culture. to anxiety or neuroticism are more likely to depends on the trust of its users and without
First you have to identify quantiiable units engage in conspiratorial thinking and these are them these companies will not exist.
&A
“there’s
a growing
focus on the
subjectivity
of truth.”
GQ: You testified before the UK GQ: Do you think Facebook should be a fact – there’s a growing focus on the
Parliament and have since struck up allowed to run political ads? subjectivity of truth. Everything’s hyper-
a good relationship with Damian Collins, CW: Yes, absolutely. This is an indispensable fragmented and losing touch with reality.
the committee chair and Conservative MP. method for campaigns to engage otherwise The internet facilitates a totally changed
CW: Yes, because he is taking his job systematically disenfranchised minority perspective on common interpretations
seriously and putting party politics aside. groups. The problem is the lack of of reality. You can go on to the internet
This is a completely stark difference to transparency. Fake news is a lot easier and choose what you want to see in an
how things work in the US, where the to spread when no one sees that you’re unmediated way that wasn’t possible before
Republicans boycotted me. spreading it. A really simple solution would with television or print media. Steve Bannon
GQ: What good could come of be requiring public reporting of your would not have been possible without this
these meetings? targeting and advertising. evolution. He’s a product of the internet.
CW: I was told my hearing was the GQ: Could Facebook do that? He identiied fractured communities
most watched thing Parliament had ever CW: It would be so easy! Facebook plays the scattered all across the US but he was
streamed live which means people are paying role of air trafic controller with billions and able to use the internet to bring them
attention to it – which is important. Also, billions of highly targeted ads, it would be into a movement.
it’s about making this an issue of national incredibly straightforward to automatically GQ: How do you think the Trump
and international importance and changing publish every ad on to a searchable database. presidency is going?
the mindset so that we stop delegating GQ: What else does Facebook need to change? CW: It’s funny because it feels almost like
tech-related issues to the big tech companies CW: In order to opt out of targeting, it a drag show – a grotesque mockery of what
themselves. Legislators are also increasingly takes something like 14 clicks on your phone. a president should look like – when you
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES.
appreciating that technology, and in particular But to opt in it takes only a couple. This is look at how the alt-right movement and
data, is like electricity. You can’t avoid it and too burdensome on users and often they’re the Tea Party has emerged from a group
though it can be quite dangerous, it can be unaware of what they have already of highly misogynistic men demanding
incredibly powerful and useful if it’s technically consented to. the freedom to be who they want to be.
structured and engineered in the right way. GQ: How would you gauge the current Their drag queen is Donald Trump, the
GQ: But people pay for their electricity. political climate, globally? reality TV star who moved into politics.
CW: Yes, but you also pay for your use of social CW: It’s becoming postmodern in a sense that They worship him but he’s a mockery
media by the virtue of your presence on it. we are now debating what’s real and what’s of what a president should be.
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 47
Kyoto, Japan
TASTE
TRAVEL
the
wanaka
way
L I G H T U P T H AT O P E N F I R E A N D I N D U LG E
I N A LU X E A N D M O R E P E R S O N A L TA K E O N T H E
N E W Z E A L A N D S LO P E S T H I S W I N T E R .
WO R DS R IC HAR D C LU N E
THE SLOPES
A 30-minute drive along Lake
Wanaka, past the famed Wanaka
Tree and pastoral lands and you’ll
land at Treble Cone – a hefty vertical
playground best suited to those
with a decent parallel game. TC,
as it’s nearly always referred to,
is the South Island’s largest ski
resort with 550 hectares of rideable
terrain. Of that, expect to navigate
some decent and plunging chutes
as well as some fun bowls. Hiking
the summit is a must for the views
and descent – so too the blue
Raffles Run which offers incredible
vistas across Lake Wanaka and
beyond on bluebird days (though
even overcast weather can mean
skiing above the clouds).
TC’s off-piste gear is a seductive
delight – or, take things easy on the
4km leg burner that is High Street/
Easy Rider.
The other notable resort closest
to Wanaka (20 mins to the base) is
the well-known Cardrona. This is a
truly fun place – where there really is
enough for all, even if it means a first
time in bindings. Wide open basic
groomers and some more pressing
blacks combine here – with a wealth
of greens for newcomers, including
what’s one of the best in the world,
the view-packed Skyline. The village
is cute and has an abundance of
food options. treblecone.com;
cardrona.com
A
ll right, let’s get straight to it culture of the ascendant Black Caps? Then there’s
– New Zealand won. For so the international march of the Kiwi start-up sector
long we claimed a superior and useful internet speeds; Taika Waititi, Bret
stance in cross-Tasman McKenzie, and KJ Apa (in that order). And as if
taunting. And yet, it’s this all of that’s not enough – they also have Wanaka.
ancient and small country of A South Island gem of lakes, mountains and
islands and hobbits that’s come winter snow, Wanaka is what Queenstown once
to prove itself the better, with the Kiwis currently was – at least that’s what you’ll be told, and often,
under the guidance of a third female PM, riding a by locals who are always smiling. It’s a more
robust economy and spreading progressiveness at will. personal lakeside experience – Wanaka quieter
New Zealand secured marriage equality in 2013 and more reined than its brash and better-known
by simply changing the law, has delivered signiicant Central Otago neighbour. It’s friendly and
successes in regards to native rights and the Maori immediately engaging, with less backpackers and
people and is on track to produce 90 per cent of all vans, great food, even better pinot – and all of it
energy via renewable sources come 2025. comes with an even shorter meander to the best
Need we mention the Haka and that team of snow in the Southern Hemisphere. So, accept
all black jerseys? Need we touch on the alluring the loss, applaud the Kiwis and pitch up.
EATING & DRINKING
Francesca’s worked the burners for Marco
Italian Kitchen Pierre White at London’s famed
Thighs burning from a hard L’Escargot, as well as Criterion.
day on the slopes? Then head Lippe’s called Wanaka home
here for an early and relaxed for more than 12 years now and
riverside feed before doing it has made a name for himself
all over again the next day. The with this delicious ‘boutique’
beef carpaccio with capers takeout joint. Grab a Boa with
and white anchovies is a solid Cheese or Grand Kiwi burger
start, before getting into (or anything from the menu),
the fresh wood-fired pizzas tuck in across the road next to
or tender pastas such as a the lake and count how many
pappardelle with melt-in-the- times you mutter ‘my god
mouth lamb shoulder ragu. how good is this’ in just
93 ARDMORE ST, WANAKA; a few minutes.
FRANSITALIAN.CO.NZ 137 ARDMORE ST, WANAKA
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 51
LEFT
The launch event for the release
of Bollinger’s ‘RD 2004’ - held
at the Art Gallery of NSW.
LO N G C O N S I D E R E D A C E L E B R ATO RY
D R I N K , W I L L C H A M PAG N E E V E R B E
M O R E T H A N J U S T A PA R T Y S TA R T E R ?
BURSTING
THE BUBBLE
imilar to black tuxedos As for the gender connotation, like
very nature, Champagne – packed Prepare for a nose of stewed fruit, A blending of vintage
aromas with a young
with carbonation that enhances the candied nuts and spice. This vintage is effervescence, the RD
effects of alcohol – is more likely underpinned by a particular freshness cuvée is in a category
to result in a post-party headache. that begs for rounds two, three and of its own. Lest we ABOVE
mention, it’s also The entrance to Bollinger House
It’s only logical, then, the drink be four. Luckily, then, the ‘RD 2004’ shorthand for in France; Madame Bollinger,
dealt with carefully – which is often isdesignedforimmediateconsumption. good taste. who ran the house from 1941-71.
easier said than done. So, what are you waiting for?
52 G Q .COM . AU J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8
A NIGHT AT ... SA N TA N I
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 53
the unstoppable rise
of Australian cheese
N O LO N G E R T I E D TO T R A D I T I O N , LO CA L C H E E S E I S P R OV I N G
E V E RY B I T AS G O O D AS I T S E U R O P E A N C O U N T E R PA R T S .
M E E T T H E M A K E R S W H O A R E L E A D I N G T H E WAY.
CHEESES AVAILABLE AT ALL SIMON JOHNSON STORES AND HARRIS FARM (‘PERSIAN FETTA’).
WORDS: ANTHONY HUCKSTEP. PHOTOGRAPHY: EDWARD URRUTIA.
PECORA DAIRY
‘YARRAWA’
L’ARTISAN
‘MOUNTAIN MAN’
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 55
CYCLE
OF TRUST
The most enviable wardrobes are often also the
most delicate. GQ Australia senior sub-editor
Christopher Riley and Vogue Australia senior
designer Dijana Maddison explain how caring for
those special pieces can be made so much easier.
he moment you bring home your irst piece of
“ na aunder ng
expens ve tems can
be stress free ”
CHRISTOPHER RILEY
GQ Australia senior sub-editor
.com.au
YOUR GUIDE TO ALL THINGS
STYLE
GROOMING
LIFESTYLE
FITNESS
ENTERTAINMENT
SUCCESS
SEX
L OOK YOU R SH A R PE ST W I T H OU R EXCLUSI V E EDI T OF T H E BE ST I N M E NSW E A R A N D GROOM I NG T R E N D S
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THE JEWELLERY Narrow signet ring, $1100, and oval signet ring, $1450, both by Sarah & Sebastian.
TH
E BA
G
GQ PICKS
CAMO
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$79.90, by Uniqlo.
$200, by Uniqlo.
WORDS: CHRISTOPHER RILEY. PHOTOGRAPHY: EDWARD URRUTIA; GETTY IMAGES.
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 67
PH OTOG RAPHY TI M ASHTON
GET
WARM,
STAY
COOL
DON’T BE A ONE
MAN. THIS WINT
C H A N C E TO TA K
S E AS O N A L WA R
TO T H E N E X T L E
Blank
slate
DIDN’T THINK YOU’D
BE BUYING A WHITE
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THIS G-STAR PIECE
MAKES THE TRANSITION
TO THE COOLER MONTHS
A LITTLE EASIER. JUST
AVOID THE RED WINE.
Jacket, $280, by
G-Star; top, $49.95,
and pants, $69.95
both by Topman.
Join Out of the
the navy trenches
ELEVATE A CLASSIC THE TRENCH WILL
NAVY COAT BY NEVER GO OUT
WEARING IT WITH CHINOS OF FASHION, BUT
IN A CONTRASTING TONE. MACINTOSHES ARE
UNDERRATED.
Jacket, $1500, by
P Johnson; shirt, Jacket, $620, by
$169, by Calibre; APC; top, $50, and
pants, $717, by pants, $69.95, both
Prada at MrPorter. by Topman.
com; shoes, $395,
by Loake at Josephs
Shoes; socks,
approx. $40, by In the
Barneys New York. hood
DITCH THE UMBRELLA,
AND POP THAT
HOOD WITH PRIDE.
Jacket, $1099, by
Hugo Boss; and cap,
$145, by APC.
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 69
Layer up
BE BRAVE BY PAIRING
UNCONVENTIONAL
TEXTURES. FEELING
FEARLESS? ADD
A SPLASH OF COLOUR
TO THE MIX.
Jacket, $1499,
by Hugo Boss;
sweater, $399,
by Jac + Jack; and
Business shirt, $99.95, by
Cropped unusual Ben Sherman.
coat NOTHING SAYS WARM
FEW THINGS SAY LIKE A PALETTE OF TONAL
SOPHISTICATION LIKE BROWNS. KEEP IT FRESH
A TURTLENECK. LAYERED WITH A STARK KNIT
BENEATH AQUILA’S SHIRT AND POLISHED
‘OSSINGTON’ COAT, THIS WITH A CHOCOLATE-
NAVY-ON-NAVY COLOURED CASE.
COMBINATION IS THE
EPITOME OF POLISHED. Suit, $3150, and
shirt, $245, both by
Jacket, $349, by P Johnson; shoes,
Aquila; turtleneck, $395, by Loake at
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and pants, $69.95, $2,590, by Salvatore
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Shear
elegance
SHEARLING IS THIS
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Jacket, $130, by
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shoes, $629, by
Tricker’s at The Iconic.
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 71
STYLE NEWS
Kris van Virgil
Assche Abloh
CHANGING FROM
DIOR HOMME ii
TO BERLUTI
FROM
OFF-WHITE ii
TO LOUIS VUITTON
OF THE
A quiet achiever, van His outrageously
Assche’s collections popular streetwear
have upheld Dior brand, Off-White,
Homme for over a shows no sign of
GUARD
decade – a lifetime in closing, but Abloh’s
fashion years. Making appointment as artistic
way for Jones, van director of LV’s
Assche moved to menswear was a huge
fellow LVMH brand statement in terms
WITH THE UPCOMING SPRING/ Berluti soon after – of where the direction
SUMMER COLLECTIONS SET TO HIT replacing Haider of luxury menswear
Ackermann, whose is headed.
THE RUNWAYS IN EUROPE AND NEW tenure at the house EXPECT Streetwear-
YORK, WE TAKE A LOOK AT WHICH lasted three seasons. inspired designs,
FASHION DESIGNERS HAVE MOVED EXPECT More collaborations galore
WHERE – AND WHAT TO EXPECT. heritage meets and sneakers worth
contemporary selling your own
sportswear. grandmother for.
L’Homme Jacquemus
His designs have been sported by Beyoncé, Kendall Jenner and pretty much
every Instagram fashion girl worth her likes. But back at his most recent
runway show in February, Parisian designer Simon Porte Jacquemus took
his bow in a hoodie that hinted at his latest venture. “New job,” it read.
“L’Homme Jacquemus.”
For those whose high-school French is a little rusty, it seemed to be a clue
he had plans for menswear. Such rumours have since been conirmed, with
Jacquemus launching a très cool campaign image featuring French rugby
WORDS: AMY CAMPBELL.
union player Yoann Maestri and a white dog. “A new chapter for myself and
Jacquemus now begins,” he announced. Photographed by the designer
himself, the shot is notably sparse in the clothing stakes – for that you’ll have
to wait until the collection launches in the south of France on June 25.
JACQUEMUS.COM
72 G Q .COM . AU J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8
An artisan at
the Hermès At
Work showcase
in March.
LV X 2018
WORDS: JAKE MILLAR AND AMY CAMPBELL. PHOTOGRAPHY OF THE LOUIS VUITTON
Hermès takes
2018 FIFA WORLD CUP OFFICIAL LICENSED PRODUCT COLLECTION: TIM ASHTON.
FIFA
WORLD
its next step CUP
It all began with the monogrammed
ball of France ‘98. Designed to be
carried – never kicked – it sparked
E XC LU S I V I T Y, P R E S T I G E A N D LU X U RY. B U T T H E R E ’ S the beginning of Louis Vuitton’s
A N OT H E R W O R D C E N T R A L TO T H E H E R M È S S TO RY: I N N OVAT I O N . partnership with the FIFA World Cup.
Twenty years on, LV continues to
It would be easy to make certain assumptions France in the early-20th century, and the brand give new meaning to the term ‘sports
about a brand like Hermès. With a legacy that was the first to use them in bags and jackets. merchandise’, with its 2018 Official
stretches back some 181 years, the legendary “Nobody had used a zipper for a personal FIFA collection featuring the ‘Keepall’
French fashion house is synonymous with accessory before, and still today it’s the best and ‘Apollo’ bags in a pattern inspired
heritage. The waiting list for its famed ‘Birkin’ system that has been invented,” explains de by the official ball of the 1970 World
handbags is the stuff of legend. But while it’s Seynes. “Emil Hermès also understood that Cup, as well as a selection of small
true that Hermès is one of the most revered people were starting to use cars and go on leather goods. Football fanatics
brands in fashion, you don’t survive the best vacations and that’s why he proposed will be pleased to hear the brand
part of two centuries by accident. a travelling bag.” is also releasing the ‘Keepall’ in a
“We started as a harness maker,” explains Today, Hermès offers everything from personalised, made-to-order option.
Guillaume de Seynes – the sixth generation bags and jewellery to perfumes, home IN STORES JUNE 14–JULY 31;
heir to Hermès and the current executive vice wares, shoes, gifts and men’s and women’s AU.LOUISVUITTON.COM
president of Hermès International. “And when ready-to-wear collections. In 2015, Hermès
you talk about harnesses you talk about a long- also turned its reputation for leatherwork to
lasting object – the best possible materials and Apple’s latest release, creating a unique
craftsmanship. And these qualities are still key strap for the Apple ‘Watch’ that remains
to any Hermès object today.” part of the brand’s range.
Rather than simply telling customers about This appetite for innovation has influenced
this dedication to quality, Hermès has also not just what the brand sells, but how they sell it.
decided to show them. Back in March, the While some brands have shied away from online
brand held its Hermès At Work showcase in retail, Hermès was an unlikely forerunner in the
Melbourne, where the company’s artisans digital arena.
demonstrated the expertise and attention to “In a certain way we were pioneers in
detail that goes into making everything from online retailing because we started our
jewellery to ties, scarves and leather goods. website as early as 2001 in the US,” says
It was testament to not only of how much work de Seynes. “I remember my uncle wasn’t
goes into making Hermès’ products – but how interested in the internet, but he said that
many areas the brand has expanded into since we are retailers – and if we were going to
it first launched in 1837. have a website, it had to sell.”
Thierry Hermès – de Seynes’ great-great- In a further boost to the company’s 21st-
great grandfather – first opened his Parisian century credentials, last October, Hermès
workshop to supply 19th-century nobility gave its US site a major upgrade, which has
with harnesses for their carriages. But in made it more compatible with smartphones.
the coming decades, the company soon In April, Hermès gave its European website
developed other product lines – saddles, the same treatment, and later this month the
which they still carry today, and then bags, Australian website will also be relaunched.
jackets, ties, scarves, watches and more. “Two days after we launched in the US,
These early developments hint at we sold a sofa to someone who was using a
another key element of the brand’s success. smartphone,” laughs de Saynes, incredulously.
Because although heritage and quality remain “Personally I wouldn’t imagine buying a sofa on
fundamental components of the Hermès story, my phone, but there you go!”
another attribute has also come to define And later this month, you could do the same.
the brand: innovation. The price tag? Just north of $40,000.
Thierry’s grand-son, Emile-Maurice Hermès, HERMÈS LAUNCHES ITS NEW ONLINE STORE
was the first person to introduce the zipper to ON JUNE 20; HERMÈS.COM
74 G Q .COM . AU J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8
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and frankincense. libertineparfumerie.com.au
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A two-for-the-price-of-one scented body
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libertineparfumerie.com.au
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J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 77
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WATCH
Welcome
to the GQ Watch Special. After the craziness that ensued in the
beginning of the year with SIHH and Baselworld, we igured
now was a good to time to take stock and digest what’s happened
in the watch world thus far in 2018 with a bumper GQ Watch
section. After all, a lot has been released, the various changes
at CEO level have now bedded in and we’ve seen yet another
rise in celebrities signing up to spruik their chosen brand.
News from Basel was extensive – from evidence of
Breitling’s continued refresh under Georges Kern (hi there
squads featuring Brad Pitt and Kelly Slater) to Chopard’s
pledge to only use ethical gold. Question is, will everyone
follow suit?
In terms of releases, Rolex and Tudor lit up social media with
their Pepsi-coloured pieces while Omega demonstrated that
however innovative the industry is becoming, interpretations
of vintage pieces will not slow anytime soon. Elsewhere,
Hublot celebrates its third FIFA World Cup with the launch
of a “one-off” (CEO Ricardo Guadalupe’s words) ‘Big Bang’
smartwatch for all referees oficiating in Russia. We take
a look at how the brand has carved its place into the sporting
landscape. Plus, we speak to young watchmaking talent Benoît
Mintiens, the brains behind Ressence, whose ROCS is making
waves in the industry (Ressence Orbital Convex System, obvs).
CAR BON ‘MONACO YE LLOW GOLD STEEL ‘THE MARSHALL GOLD ‘SEAMASTE R ROSE GOLD ‘OCTO FIN ISSIMO
BAM FOR D’ $10,600 BY TAG ‘AUTOMATIC YA12634 0’, AMPLIFICATION LIMITED OLYM PIC GAMES AUTOMATIC SAN DB L ASTE D
H EU E R X G EORG E BAM FOR D $2975, BY GUCCI EDITION’, $2250, COLLECTION’, $23,175, TR I LOGY’, $61,000,
This is what happens when Alessandro Michele’s BY RAYMOND WEIL BY OM EGA BY BVLGAR I
watch god Jean-Claude Biver influence is apparent here. Part of the ‘Tango’ collection, Your very own Olympic gold Solid gold but not flashy;
and king of personalisation Lacking his statement snake this one’s a true rock star. The medal. We simply can’t get weighty but incredibly thin.
George Bamford join forces. motif, the gold-covered panda sub-dials are inspired enough of the retro-feeling And worn by Zayn Malik in his
More, please. chevron dial makes up for it. by the amps sound buttons. Omega logo. latest video, so it must be cool.
82 G Q .COM . AU J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8
WATCH NEWS
36MM
HUBLOT’S
HAT-TRICK
QUESTION: What do
the world’s fastest
man, the most iconic
footballer in history,
and the world’s best
manager have
in common?
ANSWER: Hublot.
Ordinarily, having one
of Usain Bolt, Jose
Mourinho and Diego
Maradona at an event
would suffice. Not
for Hublot. Indeed, it
hosted a star-studded
five-a-side match
at Baselworld to
celebrate its
sponsorship of the
2018 FIFA World Cup.
See p107 to read
about the ‘Big Bang Panerai’s 38mm ‘Due Three Day Automatic’ earlier in
Referee’ smartwatch the year should have been a sign, but one thing we didn’t
it launched. expect from Basel was the aptitude for the watch world’s
key players to shrink down their pieces. Hublot’s smallish
39MM
(still 42mm) ‘Big Bang’ doesn’t quite count, but Oris’
36mm ‘Big Crown Pointer Date’ in bronze and the Tudor
‘Black Bay Fifty-Eight’ at 39mm do. Usually one to go big,
Oris turned the form guide upside down here. The dial is
combined with gold-plated cathedral hands and the display
is classic with hours, minutes, seconds and the date hand on
a central axis, while the date track is situated on the periphery
of the dial – a ‘Big Crown Pointer Date’ signature. As for
Tudor’s slimmer, smaller case (39mm instead of 41mm and
11.9mm thick instead of 15mm), we’re big fans of this piece
retracing its footsteps and going back to the original
proportions of the ’50s ‘Big Crown Submariners’. Bravo to
you both, stay small. $2500, ORIS.CH; $3910, TUDORWATCH.COM
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 85
‘Black Bay S&G’
by Tudor; $5990
‘GMT Master II
Rolesor’ by
Rolex; $17,800
‘Superocean Héritage II
B20 Automatic 44mm’ ‘G-Timeless’
by Breitling; $8420 by Gucci;
$1560
ORANGE
REALLY IS
THE NEW
BLACK
Whether or not Prince Harry made
being ginger cool, we’ll never know,
but we’re certain his infamous mop
of hair has something to do with the
watch world’s sudden obsession with
the second colour in the rainbow. Two’s
POA
a coincidence, but we count at least
five, which, in our book is a certified Levi’s ‘Orange
trend. Here, 2018’s choice pieces on Tab’ jeans spring When you read We’re talking Hermès McVities Jaffa Cakes, Ed Sheeran and
to mind. Penguin Books. gift-bag territory. anyone? Damian Lewis.
GQ’s very own orange spectrum.
SPECI A L 2018
LE FT
Mark Webber’s
‘Oyster Perpetual
Cosograph Daytona’.
MY WATCH STORY
mark webber
A F E W M O N T H S B AC K , AT T H E AU S T R A L I A N
G R A N D P R I X , T H I N G S W E R E C O N T I N U I N G AT
A S T E A DY, S T Y L I S H M A R C H O F P R O G R E S S I O N .
MW: I feel naked without a watch on. I’ve had one MW: I’m much more relaxed now. I was ‘Marine 5527 Chronograph’ in titanium (hello
on for so long – and in Rolex’s case, you’ve got extremely impatient when I was racing – white superluminova within the numerals) and
the best in the world on your wrist. It just works. I had such little time to switch off. We’d go Glashütte Original’s ‘Senator Cosmopolite’,
which is a seasoned traveller’s dream. We can’t
I just want to have that constant in my life. I like out socially, and I’d see people order desserts, decide which we prefer, so we’ll take both.
to have my phone off. There’s not many things and I’m like, that’s going to be another half hour $29,000, BREGUET.COM;
in your life that can be so delicate but have so at the table, I want to go to bed – I have training $32,050, GLASHUETTE-ORIGINAL.COM
much endurance. It’s rare to have that essence the next day. It’s taxing. Time is a bit more
of quality in life now. People are looking for short, chilled out now.
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 87
SPECI A L 2018
Store
credit
W H I L E M A N Y R E TA I L O U T P O S T S
A R E R U N N I N G FO R T H E H I L L S ,
FO R LU X U RY WATC H B R A N D S,
AU S T R A L I A I S A LU C R AT I V E
B R I C K- A N D - M O R TA R M A R K E T.
LONGINES, SYDNEY I WC S C H A F F H AU S E N , M E L B O U R N E
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 89
MAR K RU FFALO
FRÉDÉRIQUE
CONSTANT
FC has an enviable balance
between commercial
viability and artistic merit.
B E N E DICT CUM B E R BATCH So too the man who plays
JAEGER-L E COULTRE the best Hulk in history and
As with all great thesps, is the driving forced behind
Cumberbatch is a such conscience-prickers
chameleon. Able to flick such as The Normal Heart.
between the drug-addled The thinking man’s choice.
psychotic restlessness
SIMON BAKE R
of Sherlock Holmes and
tormented genius of Alan LONGINES
Turing in The Imitation A great fit. Namely
Game, it’s apt that he because both brands
spruiks the watch brand started elsewhere –
synonymous with face- Longines in Swizerland
flipping smarts and Baker in Australia –
of the ‘Reverso’. before finding enormous
success in the US.
There is a downplayed
elegance here, not to
mention a face that gets
better with age.
CH R IS H EMSWORTH
TAG HEUER
TAG has in part achieved
its status on rugged versatility.
The same timepiece you use in
the surf is equally at home
in a boardroom negotiation
or dressed down with faded
denim and a crisp white T.
And if you’ve seen Hemsworth’s
comic turns in films like
Ghostbusters, it’s clear he,
too, is more than a hammer-
throwing Avenger.
H UG H JAC KMAN
MONTBLANC
Jackman and Montblanc
have several common
RYAN REYNOLDS traits, but the most evident
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES.
I N 2 0 1 8, C E L E B R I T Y E N D O R S E M E N T S A R E AS M U C H A PA R T O F T H E M O D E R N WATC H S CA P E
AS TO U R B I L LO N S A N D TO N N E AU S . S O M E A R E S E A M L E S S A N D OT H E R S A R E I N S P I R E D.
H E R E , W E M ATC H T H E B R A N D S TO T H E I R S U P E R S TA R F R I E N D S, PA I D FO R O R N OT.
LE B RON JAM ES
AUDEMARS PIGUET
King James is a polarising
figure. Either way you see it,
the man delivers year after E DDI E R E DMAYN E
year under the most gruelling
B R ADLEY
scrutiny. In a similar vein to AP’s
OMEGA
COOPE R
IWC ‘Royal Oak’ range, he’s gone Bear with us
from interesting newcomer here. Omega is
BCoops has to genuine icon. the symbol of
a touch of the resistance in
modern-day physics. The lower
Cary Grant the resistance,
about him, an the more heat is
assuredness in generated and the
his own sense brighter an object
of style. Hardly shines. See where
surprising we’re heading? His
then that the performances in
‘Portuguesier’ films like The Danish
manufacturers Girl and The Theory
were keen on of Everything
what marketing have marked the
types call luminous Brit
“strategic as belonging to
alignment”. an enduringly
rarefied elite. The
same can be said
about certain
‘Seamasters’,
‘Speedmasters’
and ‘De Villes’.
ROG E R FE DE R E R
ROLEX
Only three
words you need
to know for both ARM I E HAMM E R
here: The. Swiss. BREITLING
Master.
You couldn’t
get two tougher
sounding
words – at least
phonetically – than
this actor’s name,
not to mention
his classically
handsome
DAVI D B ECKHAM
presentation. It
TUDOR all fits into place
Frosted-tipped free-kick magician, grooming as the face of the
mogul, UNICEF ambassador, model, football quintessentially
team owner, OBE recipient – Beckham is a master robust pilot’s
of reinvention, constantly finding ways to remain watch.
relevant in today’s rapidly evolving marketplace.
The parallels with the manufacturers of the
‘Black Bay’ timepieces are both apt and obvious.
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 91
COLOUR COORDINATED
FO U R O F O U R FAVO U R I T E T I M E P I E C E S, PA I R E D
W I T H T H E H OT T E S T O F E V E RY DAY E S S E N T I A L S .
midnight blue
18kt white gold ‘Portugieser Perpetual Calendar’ watch, $57,800, by IWC Schaffhausen; 18kt yellow
gold ‘Santos de Cartier’ bracelet, $4350, by Cartier; ball (sold as part of a set with bat), $1150, by
Hermès; ‘Pure XS’, $129 (100ml), by Paco Rabanne; clippers, $23, and bottle opener, $30, both by Hay.
SPECI A L 2018
green flash
Staineless steel ‘Maverick’ watch, POA, by Victorinox; bat, (sold as part of a set), $1150, by Hermès;
pen, $580, by Cartier; ‘Amazingreen’ EDP, $130 (50ml), by Comme des Garçons at Mecca; pen holder,
$33, and cube ruler, $14, both by Hay; ‘Tropical Flowers’ necklace, $960, by Louis Vuitton.
red alert
Stainless steel ‘Octo Ultranero’ watch, $9950, by Bulgari; sunglasses, $815,
by Jacques Marie Mage at Black Optical; lighter, $130, by Cartier; paperweight,
$560, by Hermès; ‘Noir’ EDP, $165 (50ml), by Tom Ford at David Jones.
SPECI A L 2018
grey scale
Stainless steel ‘East West Automatic’ watch, $7500, by Tiffany & Co; 18kt white gold
‘Santos de Cartier’ necklace, $11,200, and money clip, $195, both by Cartier; ‘Uomo
Acqua’ EDT, $153 (125ml), by Valentino at David Jones; glass dish, $30, by Hay.
new kid
on the block
I N A N I N D U S T RY FA M E D FO R T R A D I T I O N , R E S S E N C E I S B R E A K I N G
ALL TH E R U LES – AN D IT’S O N LY J U ST G E T TI N G STAR TE D.
WO R DS TI MOTHY AN SCOM B E- B E LL
SPECI A L 2018
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 97
SPECI A L 2018 CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
Ressence’s first dive watch,
the ‘Type 5’; the ‘Type 1 RS’;
a preview of the groundbreaking
Uwerk ‘AMC’; a selection of
Ressence watch faces
showing their sleek design.
and no crown. Winding
and setting are instead
accomplished by twisting
the bottom plate of the
case. The ‘Type 1’ is
now a bestseller for
AND
the brand and includes ANOTHER
second, minute, hour THING
and day functions run
We can’t talk about the
on satellite disks, each ‘e-Crown’ and the
shown by a separate interplay of mechanical
indication within watchmaking with digital
technologies without
the dial. mentioning one of our
standout Baselworld
T
highlights – the Urwerk
he line-up has ‘AMC’, or ‘Atomic Master
since expanded Clock’. The progressive
to include a dive independent brand
brought the heat this year
watch designed to be with a contemporary take
perfectly readable on the historic Breguet
underwater (‘Type 5’), ‘Sympathique’. The idea is
as follows. While your
an 11.5mm thin mechanical watch may
variation with square keep time fairly accurately,
it will need correcting
case (‘Type 12’), and occasionally. Dock it in to
a host of playful yet one of the most advanced
consistently well- and accurate electronic
timekeeping devices – an
executed special atomic clock – then get the
editions, including device to adjust the watch
a skeletonised piece for accordingly. The ‘AMC’
marries cutting-edge
the 2017 ‘Only Watch’ technology with traditional
charity auction. In 2016, the Fondation ‘e-Crown’ functions as an independent timekeeping, and brings
a 225-year-old concept
de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) module, powered both kinetically and screaming into the
designated the small independent via photovoltaic cells that open when 21st century.
watchmaker one of only 64 brands the charge drops below 50 per cent.
globally to meet all the requirements “We wanted to show it’s not the case
for inclusion within its ine that if you add technology, it’s by default
watchmaking category. no longer a mechanical watch,” explains
Mintiens’s talent for bringing Fadell. “It should instead be regarded
the unexpected struck again this as an electro-mechanical assistance.”
January, when introducing his ‘Type With price points starting from
2 e-Crown Concept’, the world’s $23,000 for the ‘Type 1’, the new
irst automated-setting technology ‘Type 2’ is expected to be priced in line
for mechanical watches. with the ‘Type 3’, at just shy of $60,000
Developed in collaboration with when production begins in September.
iPod inventor and technologist Tony With a cult following among Silicon
Fadell, the ‘e-Crown’ sits between the Valley entrepreneurs, design nerds and
mechanical movement and the ROCS in-the-know media executives, the
display system, allowing the watch to mission to engage a new audience
self-adjust to new timezones, be set seems to be working.
from a smartphone and, with a tap of “Our customers appreciate function
the sapphire crystal, even reset to the with a bit of wonder,” says Mintiens.
correct time once the mechanical “When you have a mechanical watch
power reserve has worn down. set itself in front of you; when you have
Fadell describes it as taking shutters opening and closing to engage
something that already exists and the photovoltaic cells, believe me –
improving on it, akin to how ABS or you’ve got their attention.”
an automated gearbox works in a car. R ESSE N C E WATCH ES AR E AVAI L AB LE I N
By not interrupting the gear train, the AUSTRALIA ON LI N E AT M R PORTE R.COM
98 G Q .COM . AU J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8
9 JUNE -
7 OCT 2018
Roy Lichtenstein Drowning girl, 1963. Oil and synthetic polymer paint on canvas, 171.6 x 169.5 cm. The Museum of Modern Art, New York.
Philip Johnson Fund (by exchange) and gift of Mr. and Mrs. Bagley Wright, 1971. © Estate of Roy Lichtenstein / Licensed by Copyright Agency, 2018 NGV.MELBOURNE
The W
atch land is in a spin. The luxury landscape in a state of lux.
Social media is transforming the reasons we buy a watch, and
e-commerce is changing the way in which we do so. Having
weathered a perfect storm of global socio-economic sucker punches
that pummelled it into a two-year recession from the start of 2015,
Rise
the Swiss watch industry is facing a new challenge: how to make
mechanical timepieces relevant to omni-connected, experience-driven consumers?
The search for an answer has spurred a seismic shake-up of the industry’s top brass.
Long-serving captains have either abandoned ship or been forced to walk the plank.
Out of the ashes, a new breed of horologic hero has emerged: the super CEO. Equal
part watchmaker, businessperson and impresario, this Common Projects-sneakered
of storyteller realises that to connect with next-gen consumers, you must communicate
in a language they understand. Meet the superheroes who are down with the kids.
Super
leapfrogger Patrick Pruniaux cut a worldwide multi-channel
his teeth in LVMH’s wine and spirits advertising campaign with
division before a nine-year stint at Bradley Cooper. For years the
TAG Heuer saw him ascend to the brand’s media events have
position of vice president of sales.
In 2014, Pruniaux was poached
CEO
by Apple to help launch the tech
giant’s first smartwatch. Mission
accomplished, the chance to take
control of Ulysse Nardin proved a
big enough carrot to lure Pruniaux
back to Switzerland in 2017.
T H E D I G I TA L A free-diving, backcountry-
AG E H AS skiing, krav-maga practitioner,
G I V E N B I R T H TO
CHABI NOURI Pruniaux is the athletic, alpha
PI AG E T embodiment of the Super CEO.
A NEW BREED OF “He’s part of a new generation of
B R A N D D I R E C TO R In April 2017, Chabi Nouri became the
very transparent, very informal
– A DY N A M I C, first female CEO within Richemont’s
managers,” said Jean-Christophe
YO U N G CA P E D various watch and jewellery brands.
Babin – Pruniaux’s former
Her mission: “to modernise and
C R U SA D E R O N A rejuvenate the new positioning
boss at Tag Heuer and current
M I S S I O N TO SAV E chief executive of Bulgari – in
and ambition of the brand” – press
T H E M E C H A N I CA L the The New York Times.
release speak for ‘Generation Z –
WATC H I N D U S T RY. The launch of the boldly
we’re coming for you’.
dimensioned, demand-led ‘Diver
Proving herself every paraded showbiz personalities
Deep Dive’ at SIHH 2018 suggests
bit as digitally savvy as her in front of the press, but this was
the Super CEO fresh out of Silicon
male counterparts, Nouri has the first time IWC had produced
Valley is already steering a course
since launched Piaget’s own an extensive campaign with
towards commercial success.
e-commerce platform in the a single celebrity.
United States and agreed to “Association has always been
make her brand available through a key tool in charging luxury
Mr Porter, where you can now products with meaning,” says the
buy the company’s ‘Polo’ and Hollywood-handsome Grainger-
‘Altiplano’ timepieces. When Herr. “Brand ambassadors become
Spider-Man star Tom Holland role models and illustrations of a
and the aptly-named Star brand’s values. We do not just work
Wars actor Oscar Isaac were with celebrities because they are
photographed on the red carpet famous, or with influencers because
at the 2018 Academy Awards, they have many followers. We work
they were wearing Piaget with people who are active and
WORDS: RICHARD BROWN.
RAYNALD FRANÇOIS-HENRY
AESCHLIMANN BENNAHMIAS
OMEGA AU DE M A R S PI G U ET
Loyal to the Swatch Group for more “Emotion is the key,” says Audemars
than 20 years, Raynald Aeschliman Piguet’s habitually rumbustious
served Longines and Blancpain ringmaster François-Henry
before being offered the Omega Bennahmias. “The reason people
captaincy in 2016. Having overseen are looking for unique and striking
the opening of the company’s experiences is because they want
new Shigeru Ban-designed to feel alive. Our watches offer that –
headquarters in Biel, Aeschliman they encapsulate the watchmaker’s
now dashes between meetings on emotions and express the emotion
a collapsible electric bicycle that of the wearer.”
he keeps by his desk. AP CEO since 2012, Bennahmias
With his company currently has struck a sweet spot between
sitting in second place in the supply and demand. Restricting
$7000-$18,000 watch segment annual output to around 40,000
behind only Rolex, Aeschliman has units while stoking the furnaces
made no secret of his desire to of desire through big-sport GEORGES KERN
overtake the ‘Submariner’ master sponsorship and celebrity
JULIEN TORNARE – a feat he knows is only achievable emissaries, Bennahmias has
BR EITLING
ZENITH by winning over yuppies. increased revenue year-on- Few men have achieved more
At the start of last year Zenith was “Millennials are a generation year since taking charge. in wristwatches in the previous
a watchmaker facing an identity that likes to consume as much decade and a half than Georges
crisis. In 2012, the company had as older generations do – maybe Kern. In 2002, the German native
scored a global marketing coup more – but their focus is more on became the youngest CEO at luxury
by strapping its most famous ‘real’ goods… It’s not as though conglomerate Richemont – owner of
timepiece – the ‘El Primero’ – to they see a quartz or smartwatch Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai
the wrist of freefalling spaceman as replacing a mechanical watch. and Piaget, among others – when he
Felix Baumgartner. Eight million Rather they see them as entirely took the reins of IWC Schaffhausen
YouTubers live-streamed the different things.” at just 36 years old. Through
Austrian daredevil skydive 39km With this younger consumer philanthropic partnership, Formula
to Earth from a helium balloon in in his crosshairs, Aeschliman One alliances and a strategically
the stratosphere. Millions more has embraced e-commerce, positioned product line, Kern
re-watched in the months after. masterminded a multi- transformed IWC from periphery
The stunt thrust Zenith from the generational marketing campaign player into global megabrand.
shadows of obscurity into the – by signing mother-and-daughter In July 2017, just as he was about
minds of the watch-wearing models Kaia Gerber and Cindy to stand for election to Richemont’s
masses. Yet failure to follow up Crawford – and became the first board of directors, Kern
with a long-term strategy led CEO to launch a special-edition sensationally quit IWC for Breitling,
to stagnating sales and the exit watch through social media. lured, he openly admitted, by a
of CEO Aldo Magada “by mutual Promoted with the hashtag significant stake in the watchmaker
agreement”. Step in swashbuckling #SpeedyTuesday, a label used by put on the table by its new owners,
LVMH watch chief (parent company Omega’s ‘moon watch’ admirers, private equity company CVC
to Zenith) and de facto leader of the the reverse-panda dial ‘Speedy Capital Partners. Within six months,
Super CEOs, Jean-Claude Biver. Tuesday’ was limited to 2012 pieces Turnover in 2017 almost touched Kern had unveiled a brand-new
Within three months Biver to mark the year the hashtag one billion Swiss francs. With collection – the ‘Navitimer 8’ – and
had appointed long-serving began. It reportedly sold out ambassadors including Lionel was embarking on a global press
Vacheron Constantin managing within four hours. Impressive. Messi, LeBron James, Serena tour with new creative director Guy
director Julien Tornare as Williams and a gaggle of the Bove (headhunted from Chopard)
Magada’s successor. Honing in on world’s top golfers, only Hublot and new chief marketing officer
millennials immediately, in summer and Richard Mille can rival AP’s Tim Sayler (nabbed from
2017 Tornare and Biver signed an pedigree of sporting talent. Audemars Piguet).
agreement with British watch- With typical super CEO Cross-industry collaborations
modifier George Bamford. transparency, Bennahmias will are catnip to super CEOs, and in
“Why did we do that?” pondered appear for Q&A sessions at March 2018, Kern announced a
Tornare on marketing agency the end of press presentations partnership between Breitling and
website Luxury Society, “because proudly declaring that nothing is British classic motorcycle-maker
customisation is part of our world. off the record. “Ask me absolutely Norton. “Both companies have
Everybody wants to customise… anything,” he taunted journalists reputations for products with an
If you deny it, it means you are not at this year’s Salon International incredible cool factor,” says Kern.
moving forward.” Tornare has since de la Haute Horlogerie trade show, “It’s easy to imagine someone riding
signed American hip-hop producer wearing an in-vogue roll-neck and by on a Norton motorcycle wearing
Swizz Beatz as an ambassador brown leather bomber jacket. Also a classic Breitling – a perfect
and partnered with prestigious characteristic of this new breed of combination of aspirational,
cigar manufacturer Cohiba. executive exhibitionist, Bennahmias statement-making brands.”
arrived armed with an arsenal of
pithy sound bites. “The smartwatch
is to the watch industry what fast
food is to restaurants.”
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 101
THE GAME
U N D E R T H E S T E WA R D S H I P O F C H A I R M A N J E A N - C L AU D E B I V E R
A N D C E O R I CA R D O G UA DA LU P E , T W O O F T H E M O S T
P I O N E E R I N G P E R S O N A L I T I E S I N WATC H L A N D,
The ‘Big Bang Unico
TMT Carbon Gold’ was
created ahead of the
Floyd Mayweather-
Conor McGregor fight
where Mayweather
extended his unbeaten
run to 50 fights.
CHANGER
T H E B R A N D O F T H E ‘ B I G B A N G ’ H AS R E D E F I N E D W H AT
A M E C H A N I CA L T I M E P I E C E R E P R E S E N T S – A N D T R A N S FO R M E D
T H E R E AS O N S W E B U Y WATC H E S .
WO R DS R IC HAR D B ROW N
Big lights, big city
26 August 2017. T-Mobile Arena. Las Vegas. Fight Night.
After all the venom and the vitriol, Floyd Mayweather Jr
extends his professional boxing record to 50-0. His ‘mega
bout’ with one-man circus and self-styled madman,
Conor McGregor, becomes the second most paid-for
ight in pay-per-view history. Showtime sells 4.3 million
licences in the United States alone. The bout is the most
pirated event of all time. Mayweather walks away with
a guaranteed purse of $128m. McGregor makes do with
$38m. ‘The Biggest Fight in Combat Sports History’
was always about the money.
During the transatlantic, trash-talking press tour that
preceded the Las Vegas showdown, it was sponsors Beats
by Dre, Reebok, Adidas, T-Mobile and Betsafe that
enjoyed the most visibility. Once the bell rang, it was clear
that Hublot had pulled off the biggest marketing coup.
The Swiss watchmaker had reportedly paid $4.5m to
have its name emblazoned at the top of Mayweather’s
gold and black trunks. “It was a risk,” admits CEO
Ricardo Guadalupe, talking to GQ two months later at
Oktoberfest in Munich, where Hublot has just unveiled
a watch. Guadalupe is wearing lederhosen. When in Rome.
“All the professional boxers were saying that it was a fake
ight. In the end, everyone was surprised. The Las Vegas
link was good for us. Our boutique in the city is one of
the top ive performers in the world. When we sponsor
events in Vegas, we see a big spike in sales over that
weekend – there’s a tangible link.”
That the highfalutin world of mechanical timepieces
Let there be Light
should align itself with a blood sport would have been In the beginning there was Carlo Crocco, a scion
implausible just a decade ago. That a mechanical of the Italian Binda Group, best known for its Breil
watchmaker should secure the most valued piece of real watches. In 1980, Crocco created a timepiece of his
estate during the second biggest ight in modern boxing own inspired by the porthole of a ship. Featuring a
history is testament to the transformation the industry heavy-set bezel with exposed screws, the original
has faced. Within that revolution, it’s dificult to ‘Hublot’ (French for ‘porthole’) borrowed from
downplay the role played by Hublot. Audemars Piguet’s ‘Royal Oak’, Gérald Genta’s
No brand has done more to make mechanical octagonal masterpiece that launched eight years
watches relevant to contemporary culture. No brand earlier. Crocco’s timepiece differentiated itself by
has been so successful at positioning itself at the centre pairing an 18kt yellow gold case with, for a irst in
of the zeitgeist. watchmaking, a strap made of natural rubber.
One of Hublot’s irst forays into boxing – sponsoring Crocco’s black-on-gold, luxury-yet-athletic,
Mayweather in his 2015 ight against Manny Pacquiao – relaxed-yet-reined timepiece quickly found favour
became the highest-grossing pay-per-view all of time. among European royalty; the Kings of Greece, Spain
When Usain Bolt was rewriting the record books, he and Sweden, as well as the Prince of Monaco,
FROM TOP
was doing so as a Hublot ambassador. When Jay-Z was becoming early adopters. On top of the millions of
zig-zagging the planet during his Magna Carter tour For the next two decades, things ticked along pay-per-view licences
sold for the T-Mobile
in 2013, he was rapping while wearing a watch designed nicely. In 1987, Crocco introduced mechanical Arena in Las Vegas,
in partnership with Hublot. movements, replacing erstwhile quartz modules 14,623 fans filled the
T-Mobile Arena in Las
There have been tie-ins with Pelé, José Mourinho, supplied by ETA. The company’s irst dive watch, Vegas to witness
Kobe Bryant, Dwyane Wade and Michael Clarke. the Hublot ‘Sport’ (available with a bright fuchsia Mayweather defeat
McGregor; Usain Bolt
Partnerships with Formula One and Ferrari. Yet it was dial) was followed by the Hublot ‘Elegant’, a and Pelé, just two of the
Hublot ambassadors
the company’s canny sponsoring of the two recent UEFA soft-edged chronograph which abandoned Hublot’s within the world of sport;
European Championships and FIFA World Cups that distinctive bezel screws. Mayweeather with CEO
Ricardo Guadalupe; Jay-Z
catapulted Hublot from periphery watchmaker to global By the noughties sales had plateaued. With perfroms with his Hublot
megabrand. And it all started with a Big Bang. Crocco’s time increasingly devoted to the Hand-in- on the Magna Carter tour.
SPECI A L 2018
st
century.
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 105
Guerrilla marketing BIG BANG
EVOLUTION
The subsequent decade was spent agreeing
endorsements with high-proile talent across
the sporting spectrum. As the brand increased its
manufacturing facilities to keep up with demand –
its workforce doubled between 2005 and 2007, before
a new high-tech facility was opened on the banks of
Lake Geneva in 2009 – deals were struck with golfers
Justin Rose and Dustin Johnson; Croatian tennis
wunderkind Borna Coric; Japanese baseball player
Masahiro Tanaka; as well as champion skiers Maria
Höl-Riesch and Dario Cologna.
While Hublot wasn’t alone in aligning itself with
gifted tastemakers – Audemars Piguet had gotten pally
with Lionel Messi and LeBron James; Richard Mille 2005
H U B LOT ‘B IG
had Felipe Massa, Rafael Nadal and Bubba Watson – BANG STE E L
no other brand embraced celebrity obsession and CERAMIC
turned it into an opportunity quite like Hublot. CH RONOG RAPH
4 4 MM’;
As the rest of the luxury industry stuck to the $17,500
hoarding boards of polo pitches and F1 paddocks, TITAN I UM
‘B IG BANG REFE REE’
Hublot leapt onto the platform offered by mass market SMART WATCH, $6700,
sport. In 2008, the brand became oficial timekeeper to BY H U B LOT
Manchester United – the irst premium watchmaker to
enter the big-money playground that is Champions
League football. Other endorsements followed; Bayern
Munich, Juventus, Paris Saint-Germain, Ajax and having been bought by LVMH in 2008). On the show’s
Chelsea – brands as much as football clubs themselves opening night, Biver invited over 500 tradespeople to
– all agreeing to become part of the Hublot machine. a boat party on Lake Geneva, a stone’s throw from the
As the watchmaker’s arsenal evolved – the company SIHH exhibition centre. He even used a ship that until
announced its irst in-house movement, the ‘Unico’, the previous year, Richemont had rented during the show.
in 2009; invented ‘Magic Gold’, a scratch-resistant The stunt prompted Franco Cologni, president of
gold-ceramic hybrid, in 2011; and broke records Richemont’s cultural council and former chairman of
for devising a 50-day power reserve that it housed Cartier, to address Biver in an open letter published in
2009
inside the ‘MP-05 LaFerrari’ in 2013 – so too did its H U B LOT ‘B IG
the journal of the Foundation for Haute Horlogerie.
marketing endeavours. Hublot has kept time for the BANG B L ACK “We shall play fair before the competition and praise
Los Angeles Lakers, the Dallas Cowboys and Miami MAG IC the virtues of commerce and free enterprise,” wrote
CH RONOG RAPH
Heat. It has sponsored Switzerland at the World 4 4 MM’; Cologni. “Yet the fact remains that by hosting his
Expo, partnered with the Nordic World Ski $20,200 inaugural party on ‘his’ boat on the same date and at
Championships and backed the inaugural WBSC the same time as the one for SIHH, Jean-Claude Biver
Premier12 baseball tournament in Asia. Hublot demonstrates a singular lack of propriety for a captain,
even has its own television channel. a quality he should value considering the importance
“We try to be the irst in everything we do,” says he affords to ‘proper’ craftsmanship.”
Guadalupe. “We took the risk of going into football How did Biver response? He did the exact same thing
more than 10 years ago. We were the irst watch brand the following year.
in boxing. We have enormous visibility. We have
touched billions of people. Of course, not all of these
people can buy our watches, but at the very least
everyone knows that Hublot is a watch brand.”
Global Domination
In 2010, Formula One supremo Bernie Ecclestone In June 2018 Hublot will act, for the third consecutive
had his Hublot stolen when he was mugged in London. time, as oficial timekeeper to the FIFA World Cup.
Ever the entrepreneurs, he and Biver turned the assault While Switzerland’s mechanical watch industry will have
into a marketing opportunity, creating an advert that weathered the politico-economic sucker-punches that
showed the F1 boss’s battered face alongside the tagline, 2018 preluded a 10 per cent dip in exports in 2016, the boom
H U B LOT ‘U N ICO
‘See what people will do for a Hublot’. B IG BANG R E D years of 2011-2014 appear to be over. There’s also the not
Then there was January 2017, when Biver gatecrashed MAG IC insigniicant fact that a tech company from Silicon Valley
CH RONOG RAPH
the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, or is now the world’s largest watch manufacturer, the Apple
45MM’;
SIHH, the annual trade show of luxury conglomerate $3 3,800 ‘Watch’ now having surpassed Rolex in terms of
Richemont – part of which Hublot is not (Biver’s brand turnover according to Apple CEO Tim Cook.
106 G Q .COM . AU J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8
SPECI A L 2018
Hublot’s unconventional
advertising strategy using
Bernie Ecclestone’s
battered face after he was
“BRANDS WILL HAVE TO SAY A BIG ‘THANK
mugged for his watch. YOU’ TO APPLE. ISN’T IT MORE DIFFICULT TO
SELL A WATCH TO KIDS THAT HAVE NEVER
WORN A WATCH, THAN TO KIDS WHO HAVE?”
Of course, the mechanical watch industry has had to
market its way past its anachronistic nature ever since the
advent of the quartz timepiece in the 1960s. No brand has
Former professional footballer, Alexei done a better job of doing so than Hublot under Biver and
Smertin, now the World Cup’s
anti-discrimination chief, and Hublot Guadalupe – while the rest of industry was battening down
CEO, Ricardo Guadalupe, celebrate the hatches, in 2016, Hublot was recording its most
the opening of the new Hublot store in
Moscow as well as marking the successful year. In Apple, however, the traditional watch
official one year countdown to the
Russian World Cup; it took until the sector confronts a cult-like adversary unlike anything it has
10th round for Mayweather to defeat ever faced. If the brand of the ‘Big Bang’ is anxious about the
McGregor, earning a total reported to
be in excess of $300,000,000. bites Apple is inlicting on its market share, the company’s
top brass is showing little signs of concern.
“We knew that Apple would become as big as Rolex,”
says Biver. “It’s the best promotion we could ask for. The
majority of the Swiss watch industry’s turnover relates to
watches over $2000. Will people currently buying a Patek
Philippe suddenly say ‘I no longer want a Patek Philippe,
I want an Apple ‘Watch’? No, they will buy both.”
He continues: “Brands will have to say a big ‘thank you’
to Apple. Isn’t it more dificult to sell a watch to kids that
have never worn a watch, than to kids who have? Is it easier
to sell a pair of John Lobb shoes to someone who has only
ever worn Nike trainers, or to someone who has always
walked around naked and never worn shoes at all? How can
you sell a naked person a pair of John Lobbs?” And therein
lies the characteristic charm of this industry titan.
So will Hublot follow TAG Heuer, its LVMH stable-
mate, (as LVMH watch boss Biver is also CEO of TAG)
and announce a smartwatch of its own?
“We are open,” says Guadalupe. “We’re working
closely with FIFA. But we will not do a smartwatch
as a business product. It would be a smartwatch for
rail. In
placed
P, as
y-Z and
ill the
Jay-Z
wealth
chy.
on,”
ress
watch,
lot has
aw in
status
dalupe
. , .
the
good
times
M I X S T R E E T S T Y L E W I T H LU X U RY WATC H E S
FO R A T I M E L E S S E D G E T H I S W I N T E R .
FROM LEFT
Zion wears jacket,
$59.90, by Uniqlo;
shirt, $567, by
Emma Willis;
and pants,
$995, by Gucci.
Maya wears
sweater, $1095,
and stainless
steel ‘G-Timeless’
watch, $1825, both
by Gucci; white
gold ‘Love’
bracelet, $9450,
by Cartier.
OPPOSITE
Ace wears shirt, $830,
and pants, $985, both by
Off-White at Harrolds;
stainless steel ‘Overseas
Collection’ watch,
$36,900, by Vacheron
Constantin; necklace,
$11,200, by Cartier.
THIS PAGE
Zion wears shirt, $830,
by Off- White at Harrolds;
T-shirt, $54.95, by
Topman; shorts, $470,
by Ex Infinitas; titanium
‘Pelagos’ watch,
$5290, by Tudor.
OPPOSITE
Zion wears shirt, $1445,
by Saint Laurent
at Harrolds; pants, $995,
by Gucci; stainless
steel ‘Heritage Spirit
Moonphase’ watch,
$5830, by Montblanc;
and necklace, $390,
by Tiffany & Co.
THIS PAGE
Ace wears suit jacket,
$3610, and pants, $1500,
both by Prada; titanium
‘Submersible Luminor
1950 Chrono Fly Back’
watch, $23,250,
by Panerai.
Watch glossary
T H E VA LU E O F H I G H - E N D I T E M S O F T E N L I E S I N T H E I R D E TA I L , A N D WATC H E S CA R RY
M O R E T H A N M O S T. W E B R E A K D O W N T H E K E Y H O R O LO G I CA L T E R M S TO K N O W.
8
7
10 2
5
AUTOMATIC year (useful when you can achieve only when the LUGS (9) MOVEMENT see all of the timepiece’s
A mechanical movement wake up in hospital). COSC (Contrôle Officiel These are also known as A collective term for the inner workings.
that doesn’t require you Suisse des Chronomètres, the horns, a term that is assembly of components
to wind a watch every few CALIBER (4) or Official Swiss far more illustrative. responsible for keeping SUBDIAL (10)
days. Gravity and your The mechanism of a Chronometer Testing They’re the projecting time. Interchangeable Also called auxiliary
wrist movement do watch – as opposed to Institute) certifies them. pieces by which the strap with caliber (see left). dials, subdials are smaller
the job for you. its casing. To put it in car attaches to the watch sections on the face of
terms, the caliber is the COMPLICATION face, and they come in PERPETUAL CALENDAR a multifunction watch
BEZEL (1) engine, irrespective of Any feature in a different sizes. The ultimate forward- that present additional
Not the latest whether you have a mechanical timepiece thinker, this most information, such as
supermodel’s name coupé or a four-door other than the basic MANUAL sophisticated variety the date, a stopwatch
but the outer ring sedan. Interchangeable hours-and-minutes You guessed it! (We hope of calendar takes into function or moonphase.
surrounding the watch with ‘movement’ display. - if not, think of the car account factors such as
11 4 G Q .COM . AU J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8
Behind
Omega’s ‘Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8’…
... is a timely reminder of the Swiss brand’s relationship with that astronomical body which orbits Earth, the Moon, and specifically the 50th
anniversary of Apollo 8’s flight. Quoting the last words of the legendary Jim Lovell, the spaceship’s command module pilot, prior to dropping
radio contact and orbiting above the Moon is apt. As is the ceramic case, the running seconds that float over the dial and the lunar surface
effect, not to mention the texture on the movement’s black bridges. Hat tip, Omega. $13,050; omegawatches.com
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Fired Into
The Future
C
I
On the Ascent
W E H I T T H E M O U N TA I N S O F UA E TO S E E H O W
T H E M O U T H F U L T H AT I S A L FA R O M E O ’ S ‘ S T E LV I O
Q UA D R I FO G L I O ’ M E AS U R E S U P TO E X P E C TAT I O N S .
The ‘Q’ on the gas. It’s a glorious orchestra and the most
perfect soundtrack to a road like this.
With marketing hyperbole, it’s hard to top Alfa
WORDS: ANDREW CHESTERTON.
feels nimble – labelling of the ‘Q’ “the Ferrari of SUVs”. But in this
case, the claims are more than just hype. The car’s
so much so you engineers and designers were all taken from the land of
the Prancing Horse, along with that glorious engine.
To land here late 2018, a mere $160,000 is all
forget you’re you’ll need to slide into the best non-SUV SUV on
the market – a car that further adds to the feeling
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 121
HOLDEN
‘COMMODORE VXR’
Test drive
TH E FI RST OF TH E N EW G E RMANS WITH HOLDE N BADG I NG AR R IVES – J UST DON’T EXPECT TH E
‘SS’ R E PL ACEM E NT TO COM E SPORTI NG A MU LLET. TH IS IS A MOR E R E FI N E D SUCCESSOR
FUN FACTS
BEST PLACE
TO DRIVE IT?
It’s a solid cruiser
– AN D DESPITE PROTESTS FROM TH E TRADITIONALISTS, TH E R E’S A LOT TO L I K E . and makes highway
driving a breeze.
That said, it’s a
STYLING ENGINE DRIVING INTERIOR PRICE/DELIVERY decent all-comer.
Think of this as that It’s here the rusted-on There’s little to fault here With heated front and Available now, you can
19-year-old Aussie who traditionalists really wail, – though, again, this is not rear seats, Bose sound, slide into the new German MOST ASKED
goes to London with a few because the cessation about getting the rear lit tech that includes an ‘Commodore’ (yes, it’s QUESTION FROM
rough edges and a year of local production last up when next pulling out eight-inch infotainment taken us a while to get
PUNTERS?
later is wearing both a October has seen an end of the local shops (just touchscreen (with Apple used to saying that, too)
in base ‘LT’ form for just Is that really a
subtle East End accent to the fun that comes us?). Overall, the ‘VXR’ is CarPlay and Android Auto
$33,690. The ‘VXR’ Commodore?
and wardrobe largely when you combine rear- a smooth ride that handles connectivity), wireless
comes in at $55,990 (plus Because it certainly
consisting of COS. wheel drive and a V8 city and country driving phone charging, a
on-road costs), which is doesn’t look
Because this is a vast donk. Instead, the ‘VXR’ equally well – with ‘VXR’ 360-degree camera
$1000 more expensive like one.
departure from the runs AWD on a naturally and ‘Sport’ drive modes and more – it’s inside that
muscular and at times aspirated 3.6-litre V6 tweaking steering feel, you come to appreciate than the Australian WHAT WOULD
thuggish shapes attached to a nine-speed response, firmness and just how much bang has ‘Commodore SS V
Redline’. But, then again,
WE CHANGE?
produced locally, the automatic box - which beyond. We weren’t that been expertly wedged
range-topping ‘VXR’ is a Holden say they’ve fussed about playing into the ‘VXR’. It’s they are two vastly The urge to
lengthy, sleek-looking bit finetuned after 200,000 with the paddles, given comfortable, it’s leathery different cars. Ultimately, measure it against
WORDS: RICHARD CLUNE.
of Euro fare. A sports body hours of local testing. a sluggish shift response (albeit with some plastic there’s a lot to like what went before.
kit and 20-inch alloys with It means 235kW/381Nm though it was nice to have touches that slightly let about the ‘VXR’, as long It’s time to let the
Brembo front brakes do – much lower numbers the car hold gears through it down) and it has a rear as people come to Commodore start
the heavy lifting while the than that which went certain corners. Plus, we that’s adult-spacious appreciate and accept over – even though
elongated-over-squat before – and a 0-100km/h came to love the LED and, for the first time, that this is a completely we do wonder
shape that sweeps the eye time of roughly 6.2 Matrix headlights. This offers a 60:40 split fold new phase and future about sales without
along from the ‘shark seconds, which makes it car does what it says bench,freeing up a direction for a car that for the romanticism
nose’ and front grilles are only slightly slower than on its AWD V6 tin and decent 1450 litres of so long was synonymous of old.
also to be applauded. an ‘SS’ in a straight line. does it well. cargo space. with Australian motoring.
122 G Q .COM . AU J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8
Read fake news in
your newsfeed or
read accountable,
fact-checked
reporting.
Make the informed choice.
F I N A N C E , I N N O VA T I O N , B U S I N E S S S AV V Y A N D T H E K E Y S T O S E C U R I N G P R O F E S S I O N A L S U C C E S S
TALK
the
talks
W E H I T S O U T H BY S O U T H W E S T TO L E A R N
H O W TO M A X I M I S E O U R O U T P U T W H E N
AT T E N D I N G F E S T I VA L S O F G R E AT I D E AS .
WO R DS STE PH E N COR BY
t’s not often your body experiences
KEY LESSONS PACE YOURSELF PREPARE TO QUEUE DON’T SWEAT IT TAKE NOTES
Don’t try and do everything Like Disneyland, the really If you can’t get to something Take a notebook, lap top, or
WHETHER YOU’RE PLANNING on the first day. Try to pick in-demand stuff is hugely you absolutely have to see, recorder. You’ll be taking in so
A TRIP TO SXSW – OR ATTENDING three things you absolutely popular, and you need to get to remember that most of the big much information, going over
AN UPCOMING TED TALK OR DESIGN must see or do every day, and the venues early. Think two talks will end up on YouTube. your notes later, or even on
CONFERENCE, HERE’S HOW TO GET then squeeze in one or two hours early. Comfortable Go and see something else your way home, will help you to
THE MOST OUT OF YOUR VISIT. you weren’t expecting. shoes will help too. instead, and surprise yourself. analyse what you’ve learned.
WWW.PENFOLDS.COM
AUSTRALIA
GENTLEMEN’S
BALL
CELEBRATING THOSE MAKING THE WORLD A BETTER PLACE
– AND INSPIRING THE NEXT GENERATION OF PIONEERS.
PR ES E NTE D BY
SUPPORTING
PA R T N E R S
THE HOST
Best known for his
work on The Project,
broadcaster and
journalist Hamish
MacDonald was there
to kick things off. “We
have some Melbourne
sporting royalty in the
house, with Scotty
James and Mack
Horton,” he said, looking
out across the room.
“Not to mention Miss
Teresa Palmer bringing
a touch of Hollywood
to the evening.”
Client
Liaison
Teresa Palmer
and Mark Webber,
styled by Harrolds
THE ARRIVALS
Thanks to a fleet of BMW chauffeurs, guests were whisked to Melbourne’s
grand Ormond Collective, and hit the red carpet for the exclusive black-tie
affair. Among them was Arron Wood, Deputy Lord Mayor of Melbourne, and
wife Stephanie; tennis champion Dylan Alcott; as well as the ever-dapper
Harvey Miller and Monte Morgan from GQ’s 2017 Band of the Year, Client
Zack and Dylan Liaison. Aussie actress Teresa Palmer and husband Mark Webber not only
Alcott with
Emma Franklin added a touch of A-list glamour to proceedings, but also took part in an
exclusive on-stage Q&A with GQ’s editorial director Edwina McCann.
ABOVE
Guests included
Teresa Palmer
and husband “TONIGHT IS ABOUT
Mark Webber;
Harvey Miller and
Monte Morgan
of band Client
CELEBRATING THE
Liaison; and
tennis champion
Dylan Alcott.
NEXT GENERATION.”
– MIKE CHRISTENSEN
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 131
“BUSINESS HAS
EVOLVED FROM THE
ERA OF ‘GREED IS GOOD’.”
– A N DY R I D L E Y
THE PANEL
“The thing we’re trying to discuss here,” said host Hamish MacDonald as
he kicked off the evening’s formalities, “is about being a leader in 2018,
what that looks like, and how it’s changing.” With that, the first panellists
made their way on stage. Joining host MacDonald (above, from left) were
Olympic gold medallist Mack Horton; investor, author and founder of
entrepreneurial hub The Entourage, Jack Delosa; creative director of
fashion label Ex Infinatas, Lukas Vincent; and Andy Ridley, founder of
Earth Hour and founding CEO of environmental initiative, Citizens for
THIS PAGE the Great Barrier Reef.
Chef Shannon The four panellists discussed everything from being a role model at
Bennett talks a young age, to overcoming failure, staying motivated and the lessons
Hamish through
the menu. At they have for the next generation of talent who would like to follow in
each table were their footsteps.
personalised “One of the things I love about this generation of business owners is
bottles of they don’t all want to be the next billionaire,” said Jack Delosa. “It’s more
Paco Rabanne
fragrance for about doing something meaningful with their life and how they
every guest. can contribute to the greater good.”
GENTLEMEN’S INITIATIVE
Mike Christensen,
Arron and Edwina McCann and Scotty Teresa Palmer
Stephanie Wood Nicholas Gray James and Mark Webber
THE DETAILS
In addition to getting guests there on time and in style, BMW unveiled its
incredible new ‘i8’ hybrid sports car on the night, with a concierge that allowed
guests to collect their very own portable phone charger. Once inside, guests
made their way towards the Penfolds Bar for glasses of Penfolds Max’s and
a grazing table curated by chef Shannon Bennett. At the tables, guests each
received personalised Paco Rabanne fragrances – ‘Invictus’ for the gents, and
‘Olympea’ for the ladies – as well as gift bags stocked with vouchers to use at
Harrolds and, of course, the latest issue of GQ.
THIS PAGE
The grazing table
by chef Shannon
Bennett; Penfolds
Max’s Shiraz and
Chardonnay
complemented
the main meal, with
Penfolds Grandfather
Rare Tawny fortified
wine served
with dessert.
WATCHING.”
– M AC K H O R T O N
and petit fours.
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 133
“ THE HE
FOR SHE
CAMPAIGN
IS ABOUT
BRINGING
US ALL
TOGETHER.” - E D W I N A M C CA N N
THE PANEL #2
Aussie actor Teresa Palmer and husband Mark Webber are perhaps best
known for their work on the big screen. But they are also passionate advocates
of HeForShe, a campaign dedicated to creating gender equality around the
world. “This couple is truly exemplifying equality,” said GQ’s editorial director
Edwina McCann as she welcomed them to the stage.
With McCann as host, the couple discussed the #MeToo movement,
being parents to two young boys in 2018, and Palmer’s next big role, playing
pioneering female jockey, Michelle Payne, in upcoming film Ride Like a Girl.
ABOVE
GQ’s editorial
director Edwina
McCann, with
Teresa Palmer “THIS ISN’T ABOUT
WOMEN’S RIGHTS, IT’S
and Mark Webber.
THE ENTERTAINMENT
The goal of the evening was to discuss all the ways we can
make the world a better place – and how we could all do our
part. The panel discussions were full of not just inspiring, but
genuinely moving insights about the things we can do to create
a better future both in Australia and around the world. But if it
all sounds like a dreary evening, you’d be sorely mistaken. Once
the formalities were out of the way, guests were invited through
to the exclusive afterparty, where glasses of Penfolds Max’s
ABOVE AND RIGHT were on hand, and Sydney DJ duo Kayex took to the decks to
A pianist welcomed get everyone in the party spirit. This was followed by a second
guests into the
main hall. Each performance by band-of-the-moment, Client Liaison, who kept
guest received a the dance floor packed well into the evening. It was in the wee
personalised bottle hours before the final guests made their way out of Melbourne’s
of Paco Rabanne’s
latest fragrance Ormond Collective – gift bags in hand – after an evening that was
– with ‘Olympea’ equal parts insightful and entertaining.
for the ladies and
‘Invictus’ for
the gents.
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 135
GENTLEMEN’S INITIATIVE
THE
PHOTOBOOTH
Guests were invited to have
a professional portrait taken by
acclaimed photographer Sonny
Vandevelde, for a memento of the
night. Throughout the evening, he
captured some of the guests in the
Harrolds Styling Suite, decorated
to capture the look and feel of
one of Harrolds’ exclusive
department stores.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
Mack Horton, styled by Harrolds;
Josh Heuston; Cameron McEvoy
and Violet Atkinson; Sullivan
Stapleton; Hamish MacDonald and
Edwina McCann, both styled by
Harrolds; Andy Ridley and Mary
Poulakis; Dalton Graham and Laura
Henshaw; Peter Strateas and
Mario-Luca Carlucci.
T HE E X C L U S I V E HO M E O F T O M F O R D ME NS WE AR , WO ME NS WE AR AND ACCE S S O R IE S
A U S T R A L I A’ S L U X U RY D E PA RT ME NT S TO R E | ME LBO UR NE | S Y DNE Y | GO LD CO AS T
HA R R O L D S .CO M.AU | TO LL F R E E 1 3 0 0 7 5 5 1 0 3
THE BOY FROM
OZ
WHO BECAME AN
ICON
AS HUGH JACKMAN GEARS UP FOR HIS 50TH BIRTHDAY, WE REFLECT
ON THE CAREER OF ONE OF AUSTRALIA’S GREATEST ACTORS.
Jacket, $7370,
by Hermès.
documented actions of too many are “Yeah, it’s very awkward. But we all know
abhorrent, abuses of power “in any way, not that sometimes in our own lives we’re
just in terms of sexist and sexual conduct, but shocked to hear things. And there’s been
across the board, absolutely disgusting. some of that with people I’ve worked with.
“Making it as an actor is bloody hard – It’s dificult, it’s dificult to know how to
I know that. I remember it seemed almost handle it when you’re friends and you spend
impossible at times, you think it’s never going a lot of time with them. And you don’t want
to happen. So to then add all this to it for to do the cowardly thing and just dump them
someone is unthinkable and disgusting. And – I’d prefer to say something to them, even if
for my money, there should never, ever be an it’s pretty damn uncomfortable.”
audition again without a third person present, Alongside this push for change and
there should never be a meeting in a hotel the spotlight to continue its illumination of
room. You can call it a hotel room, but Hollywood’s shadows sits the notion of
essentially it’s a bedroom, right? So why forgiveness – speciically, the argument about
would you ever need to have a meeting there?” whether a point is reached when those currently
Looking past this pit of shit dug by some of exiled may return and create. It’s a concept that
Hollywood’s most powerful players, Jackman sits on the sidelines as we continue to move
eyes a positivity away from the various through rejection and erasure – Kevin Spacey’s
proceedings – a wish to move forward and speedy removal from last year’s All The Money
address, at the least, a need for greater in the World and Allen’s funding dificulties are
At a time devoid of decency it feels right to be numbers of women to be seen and heard. two examples. Still, as a man of conirmed
talking to Hugh Jackman. “What’s been great in all of this is that it’s Christian values, the far-reaching loops of
Saddled to a heightened ability to entertain morphed into genuine discussion about forgiveness must surely touch and occasionally
and emote – morality, propriety, and civility equality in the workplace. I just read confound Jackman.
have been the actor’s stock-in-trade since irst yesterday that only seven per cent of directors “Philosophically, fundamentally, I believe
bearing his Hollywood claws some 20 years ago. are female. There’s literally no reason for in redemption and forgiveness – yes.
And it feels appropriate to be talking to that – that’s genuinely wrong. And so maybe “It’s everything I was brought up to believe.
Jackman, in New York, the morning after it’s back to school, or how we frame this issue And I feel that there has to be that option for
a screening of Shame, a powerful if sometimes for a younger girl, like my daughter, and everyone… much of what our legal system
forgotten ’80s Australian ilm starring his make it feel like anything’s possible. So in and our philosophy as a society is based on is
wife, Deborra-lee Furness. Because it’s many ways, it feels like there’s a hopeful this idea of second chances. I keep hearing
a feature that today drips with poignancy after feeling that this could be a genuine change these words I grew up with in the church,
what’s transpired the past eight months – 2017 for the better.” ‘don’t be so quick to judge others until you feel
to forever be the year Hollywood’s most While Jackman’s sense of decency has him you’re completely spotless yourself’.”
nefarious networks came to be exposed; sailing well beyond the perpetrators and the Jackman is spotless – but exploring
a wealth of women and men inding collective accused, there remains some frayed, entangled forgiveness opens the prospect of whether he
strength and voice to expose and rally against threads. Some of those central to allegations would work with the likes of, say, Allen again?
the abuses and predatory behaviours that had of rape, misconduct and exploitation are also “It’s hypothetical and I don’t really know
been allowed to infest to a point of acceptance. those he has held as contemporaries, the answer. I’d have to give it a lot more
Shame, with Furness out front as a stern employers, friends. He worked for Harvey thought… I made the decision to work with
lawyer-cum-leather-clad biker, is a complex Weinstein on 2001’s Kate & Leopold and again him quicker and easier than I would make it
revenge tale set in a remote West Australian in 2011 comedy Butter. He is close to X-Men’s now, that’s for sure; I would have to think
town enveloped by a casual and accepted rape Bryan Singer and shot for Woody Allen about it more now, it was an easier decision to
culture. It’s a tale of toxicity and the in 2006’s Scoop. come to back then.”
arduousness of working through blame, Clearly not something he would take lightly,
shame and bringing perpetrators of heinous he adds, “I would never, ever, base a decision on
sexual assault to rights.
“Oh my God, it was just incredibly
“There should a newspaper report or hearsay or whatever.
I would need to know the full facts, you know?”
powerful,” says Jackman of the screening,
which was shown as part of the inaugural
never be As a parent to Ava, 12, and Oscar, 18, 2017
and the allegations levelled at some of those
Australian International Screen Forum at the
Lincoln Center. “And you just think, ‘How
relevant is this movie right now? How far
an audition close has also meant a chain of honest
conversations with his children. He says
they’ve spoken a lot about what’s been
ahead of its time was it?’ This is a ilm from 30
years ago – and there’s just not that many like
again without acknowledged and offered up in the media.
“Because, again, this is a great teaching
it handling these issues, these very complex
issues. That’s what I like in this ilm – there
a third person moment for boys, girls, men and women – for
everyone. It’s a chance to rewrite the book on
are some great scenes about how it’s not
a simple issue at all.”
Jackman is direct when discussing all that’s
present.” how we handle gender and many, many things.
This is a chance to change things.
“Every parent worries about their kids and
come to frame his industry of late. The how they handle themselves and their
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 1 41
conidence in standing up for themselves in goes about things, about his code – focused, seasons; Robert Downey Jnr’s Ironman
certain situations. Just as you also think about passionate, accessible, giving. It’s just the way debuted in 2008).
how they treat people.” it’s always been – and in the years we’ve known The anger and the menace of Wolverine
Jackman goes on to detail a recent social him, never once has it altered. was always at odds with Jackman personally –
media post Ava made on a private account. Speak to Jackman and he’ll generally turn but he mined enough pain to inject into each
“She said that we talk so much about the conversation away from himself. He’s not beastly turn and ultimately ride the $6.4bn
teaching girls how not to get raped – but why attempting to hide or delect – he’s just X-Men ilms have so far made.
don’t we teach boys not to rape? And I tell you, interested and sincere in wanting to know more Wolverine, who scored three standalone
I was just so proud of her.” about those sat opposite. How many kids? How features, was always the Jackman kids’ college
old? Where are you originally from? How’s the fund, and why not? It gave the Aussie incredible
publishing industry holding up? Nice shoes – where exposure and changed things overnight.
142 G Q .COM . AU J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8
Coat, top, and
pants, all POA, all
by Tom Ford; ring,
Hugh’s own, seen
throughout.
people I admire the most are older, as they
seem to get more curious. That’s the secret to
“It was an incredible performance by Todd
and I was sick to my stomach the whole time
Jackman’s
feeling young.”
He cites Pat Schoenfeld, the 86-year-old
’cause I was like, ‘Damn, that was a big
mistake. Damn, I should have trusted my gut,
greatest hits
For someone who once feared being pigeon-holed as
Broadway doyenne and theatre producer. I should have trusted my gut.’ So when they a ‘musical theatre guy’, he’s displayed great range in
“She does pottery every single day. She rang me two or three years later and were like, his many roles over the past 20 years. From the
plays tennis three times a week. She invites me ‘Hey, Hugh, how are you? We were thinking...’ extravagant Peter Allen to the complicated
superhero, Wolverine, Jackman can, it seems, do it all.
to every single opening. She goes to the I said, ‘Yes. Yep, I’m in’. And they were like,
theatre two or three times a week, museums ‘Oh, we’re going to Broadway. ‘I know, I’m in.’
and, you know, I think particularly in New I said yes immediately.
York, no one I’ve ever met talks of retirement. “So I was in New York on stage as Peter
Everyone’s talking about what it is you’re Allen, every night, ad-libbing, ’cause 10
doing, it’s this sense that you’re only as good minutes of it was always ad-libbed, I was
as what you’re doing right now – and learning and it was just incredible. When
philosophically, I’m a believer that you’re Broadway embraces something, it’s a pretty
either growing or shrinking in life.” amazing experience – you’re living in this city
Right now, he’s staring at an extended break and doing this great show and a bunch of stuff
with nothing planned for the rest of the year. came from it too, you know, [Steven] Spielberg
He may shoot a ilm, he may not. ended up asking me to do the Oscars.”
“I’m sure Deb will have something to say In acting, Jackman’s business, there are
about that – ‘ah, when are you going back to many well-worn adages. ‘You’re only as good
work?’ – but this is the irst time in my life as your last performance’; ‘Movies will make
that I don’t know what’s next and that’s you famous, television will make you rich,
incredibly exciting.” theatre will make you good’; ‘Acting takes
He reads and dances and sings everyday. a lifetime to perfect’.
He suggests another one-man theatre show With the big 5-0 blinking in the distance,
akin to 2011’s Back on Broadway could be in the it’s the last that sticks – given, by its reckoning,
ofing, so too a stage production of last year’s Jackman should be about halfway there now.
movie The Greatest Showman. “To be completely honest, I’m enjoying
“That’s been one of those great surprises,” acting more now than ever before. Because I
he says of the musical piece that netted $420m feel excited about it. I feel at home on a stage
worldwide against a $108m budget. “It was a and comfortable on ilm – which has taken a
risk for the studio to take. And it’s always while to get to. I can broadly say the irst 10
nerve-racking when your face is on a poster years on ilm felt stilted. I was sometimes a
that says ‘The Greatest Showman’ because if little nervous and it stopped my enjoyment of
you fuck it up you can see the irst line of every it all. So it’s taken me a little while to feel
review. I was also fully aware that if I got it comfortable – like 10 years – but I do now and
wrong, the chances of me doing another I’m lucky and blessed to have had the chances
musical in the lead were greatly diminished. I’ve had. Some people bomb out early – I had
And I would love to be able to, in my lifetime, a few lucky turns that gave me more chances.
do at least three or four more. Yeah, I would I’m lucky, you know. I am. I really am.”
love to. So with Les Mis and Showman, it keeps
that on track.”
Pushed to choose a career highlight, Jackman
doesn’t put forward his Oscar-nominated turn
as Jean Valjean in the theatrical re-imagining of
Victor Hugo’s work. Instead, he opts for Allen
“I’m a
and The Boy From Oz.
“Being nominated for an Oscar was
believer that
incredible, but the year I had here doing Oz
was a huge turning point. Not just career you’re either
wise, but how I felt. It was a turning point in
following and trusting my instincts, because
I’d been offered that originally and turned it
growing or
down. I thought it wasn’t a great idea at the
time – because then I wasn’t being seen for
shrinking FROM TOP TO BOTTOM
X-Men: The Last Stand; The Boy from Oz;
Les Misérables, with Anne Hathaway;
The Greatest Showman, with Zac Efron.
movies, I was a ‘musical theatre guy’.”
Jackman then caught Todd McKenney
as Allen as it played to sold-out theatres
in life.”
across Australia.
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 145
ONCE A H IGH-END HEALT H R ET R EAT
F O R S OV I E T R E S I D E N T S , T H E C I T Y O F
T S K A LT U B O I S NOW RU N D OW N , A BA N D O N E D
BY ALL BU T A COMMUNI T Y OF R EFUGEE S
W H O S E H O P E S O F L E AV I N G A R E F A D I N G .
148 G Q .COM . AU J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8
Celebrated as a prized health retreat, it was an area whose natural hot springs and mud
baths earned a devoted following among tourists and patients convinced of their healing
properties. Owing to daily trains, direct from Moscow to Tskaltubo, some estimates
put the number of visitors at well over a hundred thousand a year. Among the regulars
BELOW was Joseph Stalin.
Children, whose parents But like the USSR itself, the tide of visitors has long since receded. Today, Tskaltubo
and grandparents arrived
as Internationally Displaced is most notable only in that it is on the way to somewhere else. And it would be easy to
People from Abkhazia in 1992, pass along the roads that wind north towards the mountains or out west towards the
play in the hallways of the
largely derelict building. Black Sea, and barely even realise it exists.
That’s not to say that it has vanished all together. The mineral springs that were
purported to cure everything from cardiovascular issues to infertility, and even
baldness, are still there, as are the grand Soviet buildings that once welcomed visitors in
their thousands. Looking at them now, crumbling and gradually being consumed by
the surrounding vegetation, it would be easy to assume that these buildings have been
long-since abandoned.
But look closely, and the signs of life are there. The washing lines weighed down with
clothes. The sound of children laughing or playing in hallways. The stacks of irewood,
piled up for the winter months. Today, the city’s role in Georgian history persists, not
as a health retreat but a refugee colony, its residents hidden in plain sight. And if the
buildings themselves are decaying relics of the USSR, their inhabitants also serve to
remind of the region’s troubled past.
Ryan Koopmans is a photographer based in Amsterdam, who visited Tskaltubo
earlier this year to capture the buildings and those who now call them home.
“I have always been drawn to places that haven’t been totally overexposed,” explains
Koopmans. “I was in Tblisi, looking for interesting places in the country and a writer
told me I should check out this place that has all these abandoned sanatoriums. So I went
there to scope it out.”
Koopmans made an initial visit, before returning to nearby Kutaisi and spending
eight days shooting in and around the 16 buildings that formed the town’s once
booming spa industry.
“You could drive straight past it,” he says. “There is a popular route that takes you
from a town nearby up into the more mountainous villages, where tourists go.
That road sort of skirts this town, but the average person probably wouldn’t even
stumble upon it.”
Tskaltubo was irst planned by USSR in the ’30s, but it was during the ’50s that it
grew to prominence as a popular health retreat. The mineral springs are actually rich in
the radioactive element radon – commonly found in the environment – and naturally sit
at between 33-35ºC.
“It was a tourist attraction, but it was also a health pilgrimage that people would make
for any kind of ailment,” he says. “So it was very well known. They’re trying to keep the
industry alive to some extent – there are still one or two hotels there – but it’s not even
RUS SI A
A
TURKEY
ARMENIA A Z E R BA IJA N
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
A stray dog stands in a pile of garbage that has built up
underneath Santorium Sacartvelo; an elderly woman
stands in the hallway of what was once a sanatorium
lobby - the wood floors have been ripped up over the
years for firewood, the metal removed to be sold as
scrap; residents hang their laundry to dry in the common
hallways of a former Santorium; evidence of life is seen in
the old hallways with an old orange microwave forming
part of an Abkhazian refugee’s makeshift kitchen.
“ E S T I M A T E S A R E R O U G H , B U T S O M E F I G U R E S P U T T H E N U M B E R O F R E F U G E E S W H O H AV E T R AV E L L E D
T O T S K A L T U B O O V E R T H E Y E A R S A T A R O U N D 1 2 0 0 FA M I L I E S , T H O U G H T H E N U M B E R C U R R E N T LY
B A S E D T H E R E I S L I K E LY M U C H L O W E R . S T I L L , S O M E H AV E L I V E D T H E R E F O R D E C A D E S . ”
Arriving in Tskaltubo, the irst buildings you see are in the more brutalist Soviet style, some
constructed as recently as the ’80s. But the collection of buildings dates back long before, with
others featuring classical architecture, elaborate arches and marble columns. While some of the spa
buildings house vast, expansive hallways or even grand ballroom-style rooms, most of the refugees
live in abandoned units that once provided accommodation to tourists and patients.
“It’s a really impressive sight,” says Koopmans, “but it has an eerie, otherworldly vibe, with traces
of human life. There are also symbols of life through the decades – so there will be some grafiti on
the wall from 1998 and posters from 2006, then some post cards on the loor from 1976 – all these
indicators of human presence through time.”
“You can hear there are people, even if you don’t see them, as well as stray dogs barking or farm
animals. So you know there are people there, but it’s not like you bump into a bunch of them.
“Sometimes you see kids playing with balls and kicking it against the wall or running around in
the grandiose communal spaces, but people don’t hang out there,” he adds. “They’re much more in
their own spaces and then going to visit each other in their individual units, which people have
actually turned into their private homes – there could be three generations of families living in the
same room.”
“ T H E Y D O N ’ T E X PE C T T H AT T H E Y ’ L L B E A B L E T O G O BAC K
H O M E . I ’ M S U R E T H E Y WO U L D A L L L OV E T O M OV E BAC K
TO THEIR HOMELAND, BUT THE GEOPOLITICAL REALITY
H A S B A S I C A L LY E N S U R E D T H A T T H A T ’ S I M P O S S I B L E .
S O F O R T H E M , T H I S I S J U ST A PL AC E T O L I V E . ”
lmost without exception, the refugees have led
from Abkhazia, a state in northwest Georgia that
borders Russia and the Black Sea. It is here that in
1992 – a year after Georgia’s own independence –
that ighting broke out between Georgian forces
and Abkhaz separatists. It was a brutal, bloody
conlict, with atrocities committed against
civilians on both sides of the ighting. The
conlict, which lasted a year, left at least 13,000-
20,000 dead and more than 250,000 people
internally displaced, within Georgia.
Estimates are rough, but some igures put the
number of refugees who have travelled to
Tskaltubo over the years at around 1200 families
ABOVE – or at least 9000 people – though the number
One of the former
bathhouses in currently based there is likely much lower. Still,
central Tskaltubo, some have lived there for decades.
now covered in ivy
and wild plants. “As much as there are deinitely individual
nuances in their experiences, after speaking to the
sixth, seventh, eighth person, a lot of them have
the same story,” says Koopmans. “They arrived
in ’92 or ’93 and have been there ever since.
Sukhumi is the main city in Abkhazia, which was
devastated during the bulk of the conlict, so a lot
of them are from there.
“Some came irst by car to escape the region
and then on foot to get over the mountains,” says
Koopmans, adding that the journey from
Sukhumi to Tskaltubo is more than 200km. “A lot
of people had injuries. One older guy was missing
his leg after being shot during that journey.”
There has been talk by the Georgian
government of rehousing these refugees in their
own standalone accommodation, but those
discussions have been drawn out for years, with
no sign of a solution. They also have little chance
of returning to their native Abkhazia.
LEFT
A brightly coloured “They don’t expect that they’ll be able to go back
mosaic in a former home,” says Koopmans. “I’m sure they would all
dining hall depicts
people harvesting, love to move back to their homeland, but the
producing and
drinking wine; geopolitical reality has basically ensured that that’s
an elegant room impossible. So for them, this is just a place to live.”
seen in a wing of
Sanatorium Iveria; Still, they make of it what they can, growing
an architectural vegetables and preparing ires; the children
sculpture depicting
Stalin - who was a running and playing with animals or balls.
frequent visitor to the Living, as best they can, in the present but
town during his rein -
receiving gifts. trapped in the past.
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 153
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Gosha Rubchinskiy.
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Top, pants,
and jacket,
all POA, all by
Tommy Hilfiger;
shoes, $250, by
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at The Iconic.
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Shorts, POA,
by Gucci.
AHEAD OF THE 21 ST FIFA WORLD CUP, THE TOURNAMENT IS IN DANGER OF BEING
OVERSHADOWED BY POLITICAL UNREST AND ALLEGATIONS OF CORRUPTION AND
RACISM. COME JULY 16, WILL PUTIN OR SOCCER COME OUT ON TOP?
WO R DS JO NATHAN LI EW
the last one in Brazil, where there were a lot of security concerns…
political and economic concerns as well, particularly with the massive
expenditure” he tells GQ. “Nevertheless, the World Cup went off
almost perfectly.”
It’s true, of course. Every host has its problems. South Africa in 2010
was assailed by spiralling infrastructure costs and widespread fears over
security; Brazil’s World Cup four years ago took place amid huge waves
of public protest, strikes and political upheaval. Preparing for the
World Cup, the most watched spectacle on earth, is rarely easy for any
host country. Which brings us to the slaughtered dogs.
Stray dogs have been a blight on Russian cities for centuries. Some
estimates put their number at up to two million, and for a country
about to host the year’s biggest sporting event, that’s an issue. Nobody
wants packs of ilthy mutts scaring off the tourists, spreading diseases
like rabies and keeping them awake at night with their yapping. And so,
with the start of the World Cup imminent, some Russian cities have
simply decided to eliminate them.
The most popular method, apparently, involves shooting the dogs
with tranquiliser darts, and then either disposing of them or taking
them to a shelter, where they often end up being put down anyway.
According to animal rights campaigners, contracts worth more than
$2.5m have been issued for dog elimination in World Cup cities.
Successful dog-hunters can reportedly earn between $150 and $220 per
dog. It might not be the most tasteful image to keep in mind while
you’re watching Lionel Messi or Cristiano Ronaldo (or Timmy Cahill)
mesmerising a helpless defence this winter. But then, nobody ever got
to hold the world’s biggest party without being prepared to get their
hands seriously dirty.
RACISM IS A a friendly game in St Petersburg. The same treatment was meted out by
Spartak Moscow fans to an opposition goalkeeper in March. Yet
FOOTBALL STADIA. That said, Foster remains optimistic about the safety of travelling
fans: “I don’t believe anything is going to occur in Russia 2018, and the
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 1 69
One way of measuring the widening gulf between the international and
elite club games is by looking at the coaches. Of the 32 at this World Cup,
just three have managed a team in the European Champions League in the
past ive seasons. The Socceroos’ current coach, the Dutchman Bert van
Marwijk, has barely managed in club soccer for a decade, barring a few
disastrous months at Hamburg in 2013-14. Van Marwijk is 66 years old,
will almost certainly not set foot in Australia again between now and the
end of his short-term contract, and is so far from the summit of the game
that he would probably need a telescope to see it. But he’s probably the best
man Australia could get their hands on right now, which tells its own story.
There was a time – perhaps not so long ago – when you could watch
the World Cup secure in the knowledge that you were witnessing
the very best the sport had to offer: the best players, the best coaches,
“THE FINANCE the most innovative tactics, the biggest ideas. Only the most dewy-eyed
of idealists would make a similar claim in 2018. That distinction now
IS ALL IN THE CLUB belongs, fairly uncontroversially, to the Champions League, and the
outrageously wealthy European super clubs who boast global fanbases
and their pick of the world’s inest talent. If you wanted to watch the
GAME. MUCH OF pinnacle of football these days, you’d start with Barcelona, not Brazil.
The process by which international football was caught and ultimately
THEGLAMOUR NOW surpassed by club football is one that happened frighteningly quickly,
driven by simple economics as much as anything else. In the ’90s,
IS IN THE CLUB globalisation and the spread of technology fed a giant footballing boom
that has continued virtually unchecked ever since. Transfer fees, player
wages and the value of television rights disappeared into the stratosphere.
GAME, TOO.” National boundaries came tumbling down. In 1992, the inaugural
season of the EPL, there were just 13 foreign players spread between
22 clubs. By the end of the century, Chelsea were ielding the irst ever
XI consisting entirely of players from outside Britain and Ireland.
primary reason is because I don’t believe Putin and the Russian These days, foreigners outnumber home-grown footballers in virtually
government are going to allow that to occur. The security level will be every major league in Europe.
exceptionally high.” At the same time, the growing wealth of the very biggest clubs has
Though, if you were counting on FIFA intervening at some point to seen money funnelling ruthlessly upwards, towards an ever-tightening
ensure this is the case, then you may be waiting a while. Though elite whose dominance may never again be challenged. The top 10
Blatter has fallen – just one of a number of doddering old men who clubs making up Deloitte’s annual rich list have remained unchanged
have been shufled out the back door following an extensive FBI for the past four years, and the gap between them and the rest is
corruption investigation – there are few signs the new regime is any widening. Among them, they have managed to corral a higher
more palatable than the old. As the red lags pile up against their concentration of the world’s best footballers than has ever been possible
chosen hosts – terrace racism, cyber-hacking, a state-sponsored in the past. As Foster puts it, “The inance of course, is all in the club
doping scandal that saw the country chucked out of this year’s Winter game. Much of the glamour now is in the club game, too.”
Olympics, renewed geopolitical tensions with the West – FIFA has And of course, this isn’t just about being able to buy the best players.
maintained its strategy of glorious indifference. The only thing that It means attracting the best coaches, building the best training facilities,
would really shake it out of its stupor, you suspect, is if its lagship hiring the best scouts, nutritionists, physios and sports scientists.
tournament bombed. Which is why these four weeks in June and July It means being able to hone and drill and improve your star players
could have repercussions far beyond who gets to lift a little gold more eficiently than ever before. And it means being able to plough
trophy, or who your favourite English Premier League (EPL) club ever-increasing sums into branding and marketing and media coverage,
might be signing ahead of the new season. generating even more eyes, even more fans and even more revenue.
No national team in the world can compete with that sort of engine.
For one thing, a club side like Real Madrid or Manchester City gets to
train together every day; grooving passing combinations, building
team spirit, developing a rapport. Most international squads are lucky if
they spend more than a few days a month in each other’s company.
Never mind reinventing the wheel, that’s barely enough time to get to
know everyone’s names. The result is the sort of functional, one-
dimensional football that has marred the latter stages of so many
international tournaments in the past.
The concentration of talent at the top European clubs has had
another, more insidious effect. One of the more underrated pleasures of
the World Cup in previous eras was watching players, coaches,
sometimes even entire teams, whom you had never come across before.
Nowadays, of course, virtually every country has at least a few players
in one of the top European leagues. As for the others, if any of them
have done anything of note in the game, the internet will know about
it. If a 12-year-old does a nifty trick in a park game in Nicaragua,
somehow it will ind its way into our eyes. The passion and the fervour
and the skill: all that’s still there. But the sense of discovery, the ilm of
pure mystery that used to wind itself around every new World Cup like
Christmas wrapping paper, that’s gone, and probably forever.
Go to certain parts of the world, of course, and they will tell you that
tales of the demise of international football have been vastly exaggerated.
Go to Peru – who have qualiied for their irst World Cup in nearly 40
years and will be one of the best-supported nations in Russia – and tell
them international football doesn’t matter any more. Or go to Iceland,
who are playing the irst World Cup in their history and are planning
on bringing a sizeable chunk of the nation’s population with them, and
tell them the tournament’s not what it was.
For its part, FIFA has at least done something right. The qualiication
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
process in itself earned praise for how it guaranteed a range of countries Peruvian fans are preparing for their
on show. “The qualiication series this time has done an outstanding country’s first WC since 1982; the
Socceroos celebrate Mile Jedinak’s early
job,” says Foster. “All of a sudden we have Egypt back, we’ve got goal against Honduras as they qualify for
Panama. We’ve got a range of countries that we’re not used to seeing… Russia 2018; Iceland fans showing their
support - this will be their first ever WC;
I’m pleased that we don’t have the same set of powerful countries Putin and Fifa president Gianni Infantino.
coming to the World Cup.”
Indeed, it’s countries like these who can have a huge sway on how the
event is perceived. With them they bring a sense of the unexpected; it’s
that fervour, that passion, that thirst for drama that remains the World THE FACTS
Cup’s best and only chance of sustaining itself in its current form. GOT YOUR TICKET? HOME ADVANTAGE
Of course, it remains the world’s pre-eminent sporting spectacle, By the end of the January window, Host nations have won
second only to the Summer Olympics in terms of reach or resonance. more than five million tickets had 6 of the 20 World Cups.
been requested for purchasing. Russia has named 11 host cities
ADDITIONAL RESEARCH: BRAD NASH. PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES.
Nobody’s suggesting that’s going to change any time soon. But USA will be a major presence and has qualified for four of the
somewhere on the tide of grubby politics and bribed votes, of laccid despite not qualifying, having eight World Cups hosted since
football and stadiums built by blood sacriice, of monkey chants and purchased more tickets than any the fall of the Soviet Union.
other country outside of Russia. They have never managed to
dead dogs, it’s hard not to suspect that something has been lost. get past the group stages.
Somewhere along the way, the World Cup mislaid its sense of fun. DODGY DEALS
Perhaps, at some point over the tournament’s four weeks, we’ll Approx. $200m has been STAY ON THEME
relocate it. Perhaps we’ll be treated to a scintillating tournament, full accepted in alleged bribes and Dreams and space exploration are
kick-backs, dating as far back the principal themes of the WC.
of goals, full of intrigue, stuffed with national pride and human as 1998, from the various FIFA
passion and the simple elation of pure sport. Perhaps the customary officials who have been THE STARS
fears over security and logistics will be unfounded. Perhaps the home arrested for corruption. The world’s three best players,
Ronaldo, Messi and Neymar,
crowds will cheer on the black players just as heartily as the white. AUSTRALIA’S have scored 12 World Cup goals
And along the way, perhaps Russia 2018 will be the catalyst for change, (SLIM) CHANCES between them, with Messi the
the fork in the road, the point at which football’s power-brokers Russia will mark Australia’s fifth most prolific on five.
World Cup and fourth in a row.
reawakened and reassessed, and provided international football with Only 11 of Australia’s 26- THE HISTORY
the reboot it so desperately needs. Perhaps the Socceroos will even man squad currently play Seventy-nine teams have
make it out of their group. for a 1st-tier European club, competed at the FIFA World Cup
with Huddersfield’s Aaron since its inception in 1930, with
It may not necessarily be the sort of good news you were looking for. Mooy the Socceroos’ Brazil the only nation to have
But one thing you learn after following the World Cup for a while is most valuable player. qualified for every tournament.
you have to take your hope where you can get it.
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 17 1
FIT
THE GQ
GUIDE TO
CYCLING
AS THE TOUR DE FRANCE APPROACHES,
WE SHOW YOU HOW TO JOIN THE PELOTON
– WITHOUT LOSING YOUR DIGNITY.
WO R DS C H R I STO PH E R R I LE Y
EVERY DAY IS LEG DAY
Anyone who’s seen a Tour rider emerge from atop his saddle after a long
day’s riding will know, cyclists’ legs are a scary sight. Muscles twitching,
veins popping – let’s just say they’re built for speed rather than style.
For the everyday rider, we suggest building strength in the lower body
without adding too much bulk – that way you can still wear fitted pants
without resembling Bruce Banner morphing into the Hulk. The key to
achieving this is keeping the volume of work in the gym low, focusing on
quality over quantity. Designed by Matt Walsh, personal trainer at Sydney’s
Fitness Playground, these exercises should complement your weekly routine.
ALL IN GOOD TIME
Embedding yourself into the world of cycling should be
a gradual process. So, at least look like you know what
TOP you’re doing before arriving at the traffic lights wearing
head-to-toe Rapha. Follow this timeline to ensure the
TIPS transition from newbie to seasoned vet is a graceful one.
TRUST THE PROS
Get your bike
STAGE 1
fitted by a
PLAY BY THE RULES
certified bike Commuter cycling requires a fresh understanding of the
fitter. It may be road rules. It pays to get acquainted with the dynamics of
a little more the peloton, for example riding in someone’s slip-stream
expensive than will earn you more than just a stern look.
a DIY job but
otherwise it’s like
riding a diesel
STAGE 2
vehicle
UPGRADE YOUR BIKE
on ethanol. If you plan on cycling regularly, you may as well invest
Your choice. in a good set of wheels. Speak to an expert and find a
bike that suits your ability and where you plan on riding
JOIN A GROUP – whether it’s the road, mountain or track.
Cycling can be
lonely and while STAGE 3
KING OF THE MOUNTAINS it’s tempting to IMPROVE YOUR SHOE GAME
/ WEEKEND WARRIOR plug in a podcast You’ll get to a point where sneakers no longer cut it.
A dedicated cyclist, he treats while riding, it’s Now you have the bike, it’s time for the cleats. They’ll
cycling as more than just a not the safest
choice. Joining help give more stability when pedaling and they look…
casual hobby – his spare time well, it’s not about how they look.
revolves around either doing other cyclists will
help push you
long rides or talking about outside your STAGE 4
them. Either’s fine. comfort zone. TELL THE WORLD
This is now more than a casual hobby so it’s about time
HAVE A GOAL social media heard about it. A candid action shot is
Don’t fall into advised but a subtle shot of your bike against a caption
a monotonous slandering car drivers will also get your point across.
routine. Sign up
to an upcoming
race that offers STAGE 5
something to SHAVE THOSE LEGS
aim for. You’re one step away from popping some PEDs, but this
is probably a good place to stop. Excess leg hair will slow
LAYERS you down so you’re better off without it. Shaving twice
ON LAYERS
a week will limit any prickliness.
Cycling is an
all-weather
sport. When out STAGE 6
during winter, the YOU’RE READY
key is layering. So FOR LYCRA
think under OK, you’ve earned it.
garments – and While some men look like
lots of them. they should come with a
YOUNG GUN / HIPSTER
Young, cool, aloof from the PG warning when
CHOOSE YOUR
pack, the hipster rides a TYRES WISELY
donning Lycra, if you’re a
fixie and, while he’s quick, serious cyclist it does, of
When flying
leading is not the be all and down a hill at course, serve a purpose.
end all – it’s how you look 60+km/h, you’re Start with with a pair of
going to want to shorts before OR, SIMPLY GIVE UP AND
when you do it.
make sure the graduating to a full EMBRACE YOUR INNER
only contact you top-to-bottom look. MAMIL, Á LA ANDY SAMBERG
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ground is firm
and stable. Worth
splashing out for
a good pair.
J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8 G Q .COM . AU 175
WHAT YOU NEED
TO KNOW ABOUT
KELLY SLATER’S
WAVE POOL
The unpredictability of
swell is one of the most
frustrating things for a
surfer. It’s for this reason,
the best surfer in history,
Kelly Slater, set out to
create an artificial wave
that’s rideable any day
of the year.
After the success of
the WSL Founders Cup in
May, Slater’s ‘Surf Ranch’
in California is very much
open for business. And
with a WSL tour stop in
September, here’s what
A train-like machine
using a system called
hydrofoils runs along
tracks propelling the
water at a speed of
B R E A K A R E OV E R . H E R E ’ S H O W TO DAY ’ S L E A D I N G TA L E N T S S TAY I N S H A P E . roughly 30km per hour.
When swell hits reefs on
the lake’s bottom, the
T he world of professional
surfing has often been
a curious one. The
general consensus has
GQ: How do you ensure your fitness
stays on point while on tour?
Matty Wilkinson: The main thing is
to just surf as much as I can. We’ve
GQ: How does the emergence of wave
pools affect your physical approach?
MW: I think it will change everything.
You’ll be able to train to do exactly
wave – which can reach
almost 2m – is created.
176 G Q .COM . AU J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8
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HUGO BOSS 03 9474 6326 SUNSPEL sunspel.com
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BVLGARI 02 9233 3611 IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN iwc.com SUPERDRY superdry.com.au
CALIBRE calibre.com.au JAC + JACK jacandjack.com TAG HEUER tagheuer.com
CALVIN KLEIN JEANS 02 9283 2146 JARDAN jardan.com.au THE ICONIC theiconic.com.au
CARTIER au.cartier.com JOSEPHS SHOES 02 9264 6079 THE NORTH FACE thenorthface.com.au
CHRISTIAN DIOR 02 9229 4600 / 03 9650 0132 LEVI’S levis.com.au TIFFANY & CO. 1800 731 131
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN 02 8355 5282 LOUIS VUITTON 1300 582 827 TOM FORD (FRAGRANCE) 1800 061 326
COMME DES GARÇONS (FRAGRANCE) MAISON MARGIELA maisonmargiela.com/au TOM FORD tomford.com
mecca.com.au MONCLER moncler.com TOMMY JEANS tommy.com
CONVERSE converse.com.au MONTBLANC 1300 36 4810
TOPMAN topman.com
DEUS shop.au.deuscustoms.com MR PORTER mrporter.com
TUDOR tudorwatch.com
DIESEL au.diesel.com OMEGA omegawatches.com
DIOR HOMME 02 9229 4600 / 03 9564 8161 ORIS oris.ch UNIQLO uniqlo.com/au
DTSLD dstld.com P JOHNSON TAILORS pjt.com VALENTINO (FRAGRANCE) davidjones.com.au
EMMA WILLIS emmawillis.com PACO RABANNE pacorabanne.com.au VANS vans.com.au
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA zegna.com PANERAI 03 9108 0639 VACHERON CONSTANTIN 1800 796 452
EX INFINITAS exinfinitas.com PATEK PHILIPPE patek.com VERSACE versace.com
G-STAR g-star.com PAUL ANDREW farfetch.com VICTORINOX victorinox.com
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1 82 G Q .COM . AU J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8
GQ PROMOTION
DIRECTORY
THE MODERN MAN’S DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO ESSENTIAL SHOPPING AND SOPHISTICATED STYLE.
H IGH EXPECTATIONS
Stella McCartney’s panelled-
ROCK ON mesh and faux-leather Eclyps
Rockpool Bar & Grill by Neil sneakers, which also use rubb
Perry is Australia’s most from renewable sources, have
celebrated steakhouse, serving stepped out in a high-top vers
up perfectly wood-ire-grilled this season. You can walk
meats and seafood from some carefree when it’s cruelty free
of the nation’s best producers. Available exclusively at Harro
Knock it down with a glass or Sydney and Melbourne
two from their unrivalled wine lagship stores. harrolds.com.a
list. rockpoolbarandgrill.com.au
G R E E N MACH I N E
The redesigned Frédérique Constant
‘Classic Worldtimer Manufacture’ – now
on a green alligator strap – lets you access
all of its functions via the crown, with no
additional push-buttons. Powered by the
in-house FC-718 caliber movement, it’s
nicely inished off with perlages and
Côtes de Genève. frederiqueconstant.com
STR E ET SMART
After a successful
launch last year,
Future Youth has
made a name for itself
in the back alleys.
The Melbourne-based
streetwear brand
offers premium
locally designed pieces
that are made to be
noticed. futureyouth
melbourne.com
THE
Full name, and place of birth?
HUGH SHERIDAN. ADELAIDE,
SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
LAST WORD Current relationship status?
WHO’S ASKING?
184 G Q .COM . AU J U N E /J U LY 20 1 8
# W A T C H B E Y O N D
BR V2-94 RACING BIRD · VIC Bell & Ross Boutique, Melbourne, 03 9650 7421 | 8th Avenue Watch Co., Emporium Melbourne, 03 9639 6175 | 8th Avenue Watch Co.,
Chadstone S/C, 03 9569 7652 · NSW Hardy Brothers, Sydney, 02 8262 3100 | Hardy Brothers, Chatswood, 02 8423 2800 | Lucsong Jewellery, Bondi Junction, 0415076598
Wamada Jewellery, Haymarket, 02 9281 8182 | Heinemann Tax & Duty Free, Sydney Airport · QLD 8th Avenue Watch Co., Pacific Fair S/C, 07 5575 4883 | Hardy Brothers,
Brisbane, 07 3625 8000 · WA Hardy Brothers, Perth, 08 6318 1000 · e-boutique: www.bellross.com