Unit-3(Part-1&2)

Herbal cosmetics and

Herbal excipients
B.Pharm. 6th semester
By
Dr. Nitin Kumar
 Herbal Cosmetics
The word cosmetics was derived from the Greek word “Kosm tikos’’ meaning having the
power, arrange, skill in decorating.
Using various permissible cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or more
herbal ingredients are incorporated to provide defined cosmetics benefits, called as
“herbal cosmetics’’.

According to drugs and cosmetics acts 1940 cosmetics may

be defined as , “any substance intended to be rubbed, poured,
sprinkled, or otherwise applied to human being for cleansing,
beautifying, promoting attractiveness.”
Cosmetics used to perform the following action
 To clean
 To perfume
 To change the appearance
 To protect
 To keep in good condition
 To correct the body odor etc.
And field of application of cosmetic remains to the epidermis, hair
system, nails, lips, teeth and mucous membrane of oral cavity.
Types of plant derived ingredients are used in herbal cosmetics:
 Fresh materials
 Dried Materials
 Acellular products(oils, resins, gums)
 Galenical Preparations ( infusions, decoctions and extracts)
 Processed extracts
 Pure isolated compounds
 Types of herbal cosmetics
Skin Care Hair Care Others
Skin cleanser Detergents Colours (lipsticks & nail polishes
etc.)
Moisturizers Conditioners Perfumes
Nourishers Nourishers Talcum powder
Antiseptics Hair colorants Oral care products-Mouth
washes, tooth paste etc.
Soothing agents Hair growth promoters -
oil/shampoos
Sunscreens Anti –dandruff Shampoos -
Anti-wrinkle creams - -
Anti-acne creams - -
a) Skin care products

To protect the skin, cleanse it and restore the tone.

Name Examples
Skin cleanser Milk, cucumber, citrus peels, Aloe
Moisturizers Aloe, almond oil, rose
Nourishers Honey, carrot, peach, wheat germ oil
Antiseptics Neem, Turmeric, Tulsi, levender oil
Soothing agents Sesame oil, almond oil, aloe
Sunscreens Aloe vera, chamomile, calendula,
cucumber
Anti-wrinkle Peach, liquorice, papaya, aloevera,
apricot
Anti-acne Cucumber gel, vetiver
b) Hair care products
These contain ingredients which either clean, condition or nourish the hair or prevent
dandruff formation.

Name Examples

Detergents Soap nut, shikekai, reetha

Conditioners Henna, amla, hibiscus, rosemary, tea

Nourishers Brahmi, bringraj, eggs, coconut oil, sesame oil

Hair colorants Henna

Hair growth promoters Brahmi, amla, hibiscus, coconut oil sesame oil

Anti -dandruff Soap nut, shikekai, lemon, thyme

 (c) Other cosmetics:

Name Examples

Lipsticks and nail Anthocyanins, saffron, turmeric, carotenoids,

polishes capsicum etc.
Perfumes Volatile oils of plants-rose, lavender & jasmine

Talcum Powder Sandal wood, rose jasmine lavender etc.

Oral care products Neem, mentha, chamomile, sage, myrrh etc.

 Study of some herbs used in various cosmetics preparations
Name Chemical constituents uses

Soap nut(Ruth) Saponin- Diosgenin, rusogenin, mucilage, Detergent, hair cleanser, hair growth
gums, proteins promoter, antidandruff agent
Amla (Indian goose berries) Vit. C, tannins, minerls, iron, calcium Hair growth promoters
phosphorous, pectin Hair nourisher, conditioner and colorant
Henna (Mehendi) Xanthones ,tannins, flavonoids, Hair colorant, hair -dye,Hair nourisher,
coumarins, Lawsone conditioner
Hibiscus (Gudhal) Vitamins, quercetin mucilage,albumin, Anti-greying agents, Hair conditioner,
anthocyanins shine and smoothness
Tea (chai) Polyphenols catechine, apicatechin, Hair conditioner, shine and smoothness
caffeine
Aloe Rhein, aloin, emodine, minerals, mucilage Wound healing, used in sunscreen, hair
conditioner and nourisher
Liquorice (mulethi) Saponins- glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, Used as Skin care Cosmetics
liquiritin
Turmeric (haldi) Volatile oils, resins, curcuminoids Antiseptic, anti bacterial anti-
inflammatory, skin conditioning, coloring
agent
Sandalwood (Chandan) Volatile oils, santalal In perfumery, skin conditioner, creams
lotions, soaps, powder
 HERBAL EXCIPIENTS
Pharmaceuticals excipients/ aids are the substances which are inert
and have little or no therapeutic value, but are essential in the
manufacture of various pharmaceuticals dosages forms such as
tablets capsules syrups etc. Examples of these aids are binding
agents, suspending agents, viscosity builders, disintegrating agents
etc.
Advantages/ significance of herbal excipients:
 Biodegradable (are the substances which can be easily taken back into the earth
naturally without causing any harm to the environment)
 Biocompatible and non-toxic
 Economic
 Safe and free from side effect
 Easily available
Disadvantage of herbal excipients:
 Microbial contamination
 Biochemical variation
 Uncontrolled rate of hydration
 Heavy metal contamination
Classification of Herbal excipients:

Name Examples
Colorants Henna, chlorophyll, caramel, amaranth,
indigo
Sweeteners Glycyrrhiza, honey, stevia
Binding agents Acacia, gelatin, tragacanth, starch
Diluents Lactose, starch, mannitol, sucrose
Viscosity builders Pectin, tragacanth, cellulose, guargum,
gelatin,
Disintegrating agents Starch, isapgol husk, carboxy methyl
cellulose (CMC)
Ointment bases Lanolin, bees wax
Emulsifying agent Acacia, agar, guargum, methyl cellulose

Flavouring agents Cardamom, vanilla, Lemon oil, Orange oil

Perfume Rose lavender, sandal wood

 Study of some herbs used as excipients
Name
Gelatin
(protein obtained from patial hydrolysis od
animal connective tissue like bone, tandons
and ligaments)
Amaranth
(Flowers of Amarantus hypochondriacus)
Madder (dried roots of Rubia tinctorum)
Henna (Mehendi)
Stevia (Stevia rebaudiana)
Saffron (dried stigma and style tops of
Crocus sativus
Tragacanth (dried gummy exudation
obtained from the stem and branches of
Astragalus gummifer)
Liquorice
(dried roots and stolons of Glycyrrhiza
glabra)
Lactose (a natural disaccharide obtained
from milk)
Guar gum (endosperm of seeds of Cyamopsis
Chemical constituents
Amino acids- glycine, alanine, glutamic
acid, argginine, aspartic acid, leucine,
isoleucine
Polyphenols, vitamins flavonoids
Anthraquinone- alizarin
Xanthones ,tannins, flavonoids,
coumarins, Lawsone
Stevioside, steviol, rebaudioside
Fixed oil, volatile oils and crocin- chief
colouring principle, wax, lycopene
Gums tragacanthin and bassorin
Saponins- glycyrrhizin, flavonoids,
liquiritin
Sugars -galactose and glucose
Guran ,galactose,mannose
Uses
Thickening agent, binding agent,
emulsifying agent, I the manufacture of
capsules
Dying agent
Red dye plant
Hair colorant, hair -dye,Hair nourisher,
conditioner
Sweetening agent
Fevers cold coloring flavouring agents
cosmetic pharmaceutical preparations
Binding agent and viscosity builder
Used as Sweetening agent and Skin care
Cosmetics
Diluent in tablets and capsules
Binding agent,disintegrating agent,
Thank you