SPC Module 3

HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIAL
(CBLM)
Welcome to the competency-based learning material for the module:

PERFORMING BASIC HAIR PERMING This module contains training materials and
activities for you to accomplish.
The unit of competency “PERFORM BASIC HAIR PERMING”, contains the
knowledge, skills and attitudes required for Hairdressing NC Level II.
You are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to complete
each learning outcomes of the module. In each learning outcome, there are reference
materials or instructional sheets for further reading to help you better understand the
required activities. Follow the activities at your own pace and answer the self-check at
the end of each learning outcome. If you have questions, please feel free to ask for the
assistance of your trainer/facilitator.
RECOGNITION OF PRIOR LEARNING (RPL)
You may have some or most of the knowledge and skills included in this learner’s
guide because you have:
Been working in the same industry for some time.
Already completed training in this area.
If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you are competent in a particular skill,
you don’t have to do the same training again.
If you feel that you have some skills, talk to your trainer about having them
formally recognized. If you have a qualification or certificate of competence from
previous trainings, show them to your trainer. If the skills you acquired are still current
and relevant to the unit of competency, they may become part of the evidence you can
present for RPL. If you are not sure about the currency of your skills, discuss this with
your trainer.
A Trainee Record Book (TRB) is given to you to record important dates, jobs
undertaken and other workplace events that will assist you in providing further details to
your trainer/assessor. A Record of Achievement/Progress Chart is also provided to
your trainer to complete/accomplish once you have completed the module. This will
show your own progress.
DIRECTION FOR USE OF THE CBLM
This module was prepared to help you achieve the required competency
PERFORM BASIC HAIR PERMING. This will be the source of information for you to
acquire the knowledge and skills in this particular module with minimum supervision or
help from your trainer. With the aid of this material, you will acquire the competency
independently and at your own pace.
Talk to your trainer and agree on how you will both organize the training of this
unit. Read through the module carefully. It is divided into sections which covers all the
skills and knowledge you need to successfully complete in this module.
Work through all the information and complete the activities in each section. Do
what is asked in the INSTRUCTIONAL SHEET ( TASK SHEET, OPERATION SHEET,
JOB SHEET ) and complete the SELF-CHECK. Suggested references are included to
supplement the materials provided in this module.
Most probably, your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He is there
to support you and show you the correct way to do things. Ask for help.
Your trainer will tell you about the important things you need to consider when
you are completing activities and it is important that you listen and take notes.
You will be given plenty of opportunities to ask questions and practice on the job.
Make sure you practice your new skills during regular work shifts. This way, you will
improve both your speed and memory and also your confidence.
Talk to more experienced workmates and ask for their guidance.
Use the self-check questions at the end of each section to test your own
progress.
When you are ready, ask your trainer to watch you perform the activities outlined
in the module.
As you work through the activities, ask for written feedback on your progress.
Your trainer gives feedback/pre-assessment reports for this reason. When you have
successfully completed each element or learning outcome, ask your trainer to mark on
the reports that you are ready for assessment.
When you have completed this module (several modules) and feel confident that
you have had sufficient practice, your trainer will arrange an appointment to qualified
trainer to assess/evaluate you. The result of your assessment/evaluation will be
recorded in your COMPETENCY ACHIEVEMENT RECORD.
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ST. PETER’S HAIRDRESSING NC II
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ANGELES CITY, PERFORM BASIC HAIR PERMING 2
INC.
PROGRAM/ COURSE : HAIRDRESSING NC II
UNIT OF COMPETENCY : PERFORM BASIC HAIR PERMING
MODULE TITLE : BASIC HAIR PERMING
INTRODUCTION:
This module contains information and suggested learning outcomes activities on

Hairdressing NC II.
Completion of this module will help you understand better the succeeding module
on performing hair and scalp treatment.
This module consists of 4 learning outcomes. Each Learning outcome contains

learning activities supported by instruction sheets. Before you perform the instructions
read the information sheets and answer the self-check and activities provided to as
certain to yourself and your teacher that you have acquired knowledge necessary to
perform the skill portion of the particular learning outcome.
Upon completion of this module, report to your teacher for assessment to check
your achievement of knowledge and skills requirement of this module. If you pass the
assessment, you will be given a certificate of completion.
SUMMARY OF LEARNING OUTCOMES:
AT THE COMPLETION OF THIS MODULE THE LEARNER MUST BE ABLE TO:
Lo1. Prepare Client
Lo2. Perm Hair
Lo3. Apply Finishing Touch
Lo4. Perform Post Service Activities
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ASSESSMENT CRITERIA
Refer to assessment criteria of learning outcomes # of this module
1. Client is advised to remove all personal accessories.

2. Client is provided with and advised to wear protective clothing
3. Condition and type of hair is checked and analyzed in accordance with
hair elasticity and porosity.
4. Previous chemical treatment applied on hair is determined.
5. Scalp condition is checked if free from scratches and open wounds.
6. Client is advised to defer hair perming based on adverse scalp and health
conditions if required.
7. Types of hair curls is confirmed with client and recorded for further
reference.
8. Tools and equipment, supplies/materials are prepared and used according
to salon policies and procedures and occupational health and safety
requirements.
9. Perm solution is selected and prepared according to client’s hair type,
texture/condition and product specifications.
10. Hair perm is performed in accordance with established or acceptable
procedures and product specifications.
11. Hair is rinsed thoroughly, towel-dried and conditioner is applied.
12. Clients’ safety and comfort is ensured during the entire process
13. Hair is checked according to agreed outcome.
14. Hair is tapered / trimmed if necessary
15. Client’s satisfaction is confirmed and adjustments are made if required.
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LO1. TITLE : Prepare Client
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Client is advised to remove all personal accessories.

2. Client is provided with and advised to wear protective clothing
3. Condition and type of hair is checked and analyzed in accordance with hair
elasticity and porosity.
4. Previous chemical treatment applied on hair is determined.
5. Scalp condition is checked if free from scratches and open wounds.
6. Client is advised to defer hair perming based on adverse scalp and health
conditions if required.
7. Types of hair curls is confirmed with client and recorded for further reference.
CONTENTS:
1. Use of Protective clothing

2. Checking and analyzing hair condition
3. Types and conditions of hair
4. Chemical treatments applied to hair
5. Checking scalp condition
6. Types of hair curls
7. Customer relation
8. Interpersonal relations
CONDITION: The learner should be provided with the following:
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 Hair analysis  Reference
form magazines/books
 Bath towel  Ear pads
 Drip pan  Regular
 Tissues curlers/rods
 Cape  Trolley
 Shower cap
METHODOLOGIES:
 Lecture
 Discussion
 Demonstration
 Hands-on
ASSESSMENT METHODS:
 Written examination
 Demonstration
 Observation
 Interview
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Information Sheet 3.1
“Prepare Client”
Preparing and Protecting Client
It is vital to the wellbeing of your client that you follow your salon’s rules for preparing and
protecting your client during the perming and neutralizing processes.
You must always consider the effects of the chemicals you are using and their potential for
harming your client. This will help you evaluate any risks and prevent accidents happening.
Preparing the hair for perming
Begin by correctly draping/ gowning your client. Next, prepare the hair ready for perming
by shampooing, using a soapless base shampoo with no additives, to ensure no residue is left
on the hair as a barrier between the perm lotion and the hair.
When shampooing before a perm, use only cool/tepid water and do not massage vigorously to
avoid over stimulation of the scalp, as this can lead to sensitivity during the chemical process.
Hair tests for perming and neutralizing
You should always explain the importance of tests to your client so she is aware that you
are checking to see whether the hair can withstand the chemical process you are going to carry
out.
Elasticity test
This is to test the internal strength of the hair (the cortex). Hair that
has been damaged due to chemical treatments may have lost much
of its natural strength. This type of hair may stretch over two-thirds of
its original length and may even break off. It is important to carry out
this test before perming. Hair that is in good condition will stretch and
then return to its original length. Take one strand of hair and hold
each end firmly between the thumb and forefinger of each hand and
gently pull. If the hair stretches more than half of its original length
then it is over elastic and may snap or break during chemical
processing.
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Porosity test
This tests the condition of the outer layer of the hair shaft – the
cuticle. If the cuticle is damaged, it becomes porous. Perming
chemicals added to porous hair will be absorbed unevenly and
may produce uneven curl results. This is why special perm lotions
for tinted and highlighted hair are used. They are weaker in
strength and are less likely to over process the hair and give a
poor result. Take a strand of hair and hold it by the points (where
the hair has been cut) between the thumb and forefinger of one
hand. Run the forefinger and thumb of your other hand from the
root (where the hair grows from) down to the point. If the hair
feels rough and bumpy, the cuticle scales are raised and open
and this is an indication of porous hair. If the hair feels smooth,
the cuticle is flat and closed and the hair’s cuticle region is in
good condition.
Incompatibility test
Some chemicals do not work well together (they are

incompatible) and may have a bad reaction if one is used
over the top of another. Some colors, for example, contain
metallic salts, which are incompatible with other chemicals.
You should carry out an incompatibility test before perming if
you are unsure of the coloring products already on the hair
or if the hair has a doubtful history.
• Mix together (preferably in a glass bowl) 40 ml of 20

volume hydrogen peroxide and 2 ml of alkaline perm lotion.
• Place a small cutting of hair in the solution and wait. If heat
is given off, the lotion fizzes and the hair breaks, dissolves or
changes color, then this is a positive reaction and the hair
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should NOT be permed or colored with a product containing hydrogen peroxide. The hair
contains metallic salts.
Pre-perm test curl
When handling fragile, porous hair or hair with a doubtful

history, it is advisable to wind, process and neutralize one or
more small sections of hair. The results will be a guide to the
best rod size, processing time and lotion strength to use. This
test will also give a good indication of the condition after the
perming process and will determine whether the hair is suitable
for this treatment.
It is not always suitable or possible to carry out a test curl on

the head, so a cutting of hair may be taken and tested
separately, but remember, there will be no scalp heat to help
the processing.
• Wind two or three rods of your chosen size in the hair.

• Apply perm lotion suitable for hair condition and leave to
process for the manufacturer’s specified time.
• Carry out a development test curl to see whether processing is
sufficient. If so, rinse, neutralize for the time specified by the
manufacturer, remove rods and evaluate curl result.
Development test curl
This test is carried out during the processing of the perm to check
whether the desired development has been reached. Always wear
gloves to carry out this test.
• Hold perm rod and undo rubber fastener.

• Unwind the curler one and a half turns or until you see the start of
the perm paper, holding firmly.
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• Push the hair up and then in towards the scalp, allowing it to relax into an ‘S’ shape
movement. Be careful not to pull the hair as it is in a very fragile state.
• When the size of the ‘S’ shape corresponds to the size of the curler, the processing is
complete and the hair should be rinsed with warm water to avoid over processing and
neutralized following manufacturer’s instructions.
Always take test curls on different areas of the head as one area may be ready before another
and this would cause an uneven curl result. The temperature of the salon will make a difference.
Perms will process quicker on warm days than on cold days. Once you have carried out the
necessary tests and you are satisfied with the results, continue with the service.
When not to perm

• When the scalp is damaged or the skin broken/damaged.
• When the hair is in poor condition.
• When the overall porosity of the hair is too high – over-bleached.
• In the presence of metallic salts, for example, Grecian 2000.
• When the hair has poor elasticity.
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Self-Check 3.1
Direction: Discuss briefly the following and its procedure:
1. Elasticity Test
2. Porosity Test
3. Incompatibility Test
4. Pre-perm Test Curl
5. Development Test Curl
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Answer key 3.1
1. This is to test the internal strength of the hair (the cortex). Hair that has been damaged
due to chemical treatments may have lost much of its natural strength.
Take one strand of hair and hold each end firmly between the thumb and forefinger of
each hand and gently pull. If the hair stretches more than half of its original length then it
is over elastic and may snap or break during chemical processing.
2. This tests the condition of the outer layer of the hair shaft – the cuticle. If the cuticle is
damaged, it becomes porous.
Take a strand of hair and hold it by the points (where the hair has been cut) between the
thumb and forefinger of one hand. Run the forefinger and thumb of your other hand from
the root (where the hair grows from) down to the point. If the hair feels rough and bumpy,
the cuticle scales are raised and open and this is an indication of porous hair. If the hair
feels smooth, the cuticle is flat and closed and the hair’s cuticle region is in good
condition.
3. Some chemicals do not work well together (they are incompatible) and may have a bad
reaction if one is used over the top of another. It be should carry out an incompatibility
test before perming if you are unsure of the coloring products already on the hair or if the
hair has a doubtful history.
Mix together (preferably in a glass bowl) 40 ml of 20 volume hydrogen peroxide and 2 ml

of alkaline perm lotion. Place a small cutting of hair in the solution and wait. If heat is
given off, the lotion fizzes and the hair breaks, dissolves or changes color, then this is a
positive reaction and the hair should NOT be permed or colored with a product containing
hydrogen peroxide. The hair contains metallic salts.
4. Pre perm test is done when handling fragile, porous hair or hair with a doubtful history, it
is advisable to wind, process and neutralize one or more small sections of hair. The
results will be a guide to the best rod size, processing time and lotion strength to use.
• Wind two or three rods of your chosen size in the hair.

• Apply perm lotion suitable for hair condition and leave to process for the
manufacturer’s specified time.
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• Carry out a development test curl to see whether processing is sufficient. If so,
rinse, neutralize for the time specified by the manufacturer, remove rods and
evaluate curl result
5. This test is carried out during the processing of the perm to check whether the desired
development has been reached. Always wear gloves to carry out this test.
• Hold perm rod and undo rubber fastener.

• Unwind the curler one and a half turns or until you see the start of the perm paper,
holding firmly.
• Push the hair up and then in towards the scalp, allowing it to relax into an ‘S’ shape
movement. Be careful not to pull the hair as it is in a very fragile state.
• When the size of the ‘S’ shape corresponds to the size of the curler, the processing is
complete and the hair should be rinsed with warm water to avoid over processing and
neutralized following manufacturer’s instructions.
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LO2. TITLE : Perm Hair
1. Tools and equipment, supplies/materials are prepared and used according to salon
policies and procedures and occupational health and safety requirements.
2. Perm solution is selected and prepared according to client’s hair type,
texture/condition and product specifications.
3. Hair perm is performed in accordance with established or acceptable procedures and
product specifications.
4. Hair is rinsed thoroughly, towel-dried and conditioner is applied.
5. Clients’ safety and comfort is ensured during the entire process.
CONTENTS:
1. Preparation and use of tools, supplies, and equipment

2. Safe handling and usage of tools and equipment
3. Perm product knowledge
4. Hair perm procedure
5. Hair rinsing procedure
6. Principles of ergonomics
7. Safety precautions
ACCESSORIES/TOOLS/EQUIPMENT SUPPLIES AND MATERIALS

 Applicator  Apron
 Cape  Bath Towel
 Curler (all sizes)  Conditioner
 Drip Pan  Cotton
 Dryer  Ear Pads
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 Flannel head band  End Paper
 Hairclips  Flannel Headband
 Infra red equipment/dryer  Neutralizer
 Mannequin /live model  Perm solution
 Perm Cap  Powder
 Razor/Scissor  Roll tissue
 Regular curlers/rods  Rubber Band
 Shower cap  Rubber Gloves
 Tail Comb  Shampoo
 Trolley  Wave products
METHODOLOGIES:
 Lecture
 Discussion
 Hands-on
ASSESSMENT METHODS:
 Demonstration
 Oral questioning
 Interview
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“Perm hair”
PERMING AND NEUTRALISING PRODUCTS
Acid perm lotion
Acid perm lotion has been developed as a kinder alternative to the original alkaline perm
lotion. Fewer bonds are broken in the cortex of the hair by acid perms and they are gentler to
use on damaged hair or hair that processes very quickly (for example, porous hair). Acid perms
have activators that are added to them immediately before use. They rely on heat to open up
the cuticle scales so that they can penetrate the cortex region. They generally have an acid pH
of 6–7 and are made of a chemical called glycerol monothioglycollate.
Once an acid perm is mixed with its activator it only has a short life span and,
consequently, any remaining lotion should be discarded. This makes pre-perm testing with acid
perm lotions difficult, as you would not want to mix up a whole bottle of perm lotion to test one
small piece of hair – this would not be cost effective for the salon.
Alkaline perm lotion
Alkaline perm lotion is generally stronger than acid perm lotion and comes in different
strengths for different hair types. It has a pH of approximately 9.5, which opens up the cuticle
scales and allows the perm lotion to enter the cortex region of the hair. The higher the pH of the
perm lotion, the more damaging it is to the hair. This is why alkaline perms have conditioning
agents added to them and acid perms are becoming increasingly popular. The chemical
ingredient in alkaline perm lotion is ammonium thioglycollate.
Exothermic perms
Exothermic perms have the benefit of producing their own heat. Once the activator has
been mixed with the perm lotion, you will be able to feel the lotion getting warm as you hold the
bottle. Because they are self-heating, no added heat is necessary to open the cuticle or help the
perm during processing.
Exothermic perms are generally made for use on all types of hair; however, you may need to
leave them for less time on porous hair – always check the manufacturer’s instructions. They
can be a mixture of acid and alkaline or acid/alkaline depending on the manufacturer. The only
way to check is to look at the chemical ingredients on the packaging and compare to the acid or
alkaline perm chemical ingredients.
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Dual action perm
These are used when perming African Caribbean hair and are more commonly used as
they are kinder on the hair than single action perms. The active chemical found in most perm
lotions for African Caribbean hair is ammonium thioglycollate. It is a two step process: first, the
curly hair is chemically softened using an ammonium thioglycollate cream to reduce the natural
curl; secondly, a curl gel or winding lotion (a weaker solution of ammonium thioglycollate) is
applied and the hair wound around perm rods and processed. This permanent treatment allows
the hair to be formed into new looser curls after neutralizing has taken place. Curly perms
produce a tighter, more traditional curl, while a body perm will produce a softer wave or curl for
a more modern finish.
Single action perm
Again, this perm uses the chemical ammonium thioglycollate, but only one application of
the perm lotion is applied and remains on the hair (during smoothing and straightening and
when the hair is wound around the perm rods) until processing is complete. Remember, you
must always wear gloves when winding hair that has had perm lotion applied to it.
Neutralizers
Neutralizers come in many different forms. Some are ready to use out of the bottle, some need
to be mixed with warm water, some need to be foamed up in a bowl and applied with a sponge,
and some neutralizers are instant. The chemical ingredient in neutralizers may be either
hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate, both of which can lighten or fade hair color.
Most neutralizers used on African Caribbean perms usually contain sodium bromated as this
has a much gentler action on the hair than hydrogen peroxide. This is why the neutralizing
process differs with African Caribbean hair, as the rods are left in the hair throughout the
neutralizing process because the gentler action takes longer to process. Sodium bromate also
has less hair lightening properties than hydrogen peroxide.
PERM LOTION HAIR TYPE

Normal Virgin hair that has not been treated with chemicals
Resistant White or greying hair or very tight compact cuticle scales
Tinted Hair that has been treated with permanent colors
Bleached Bleached or high-lift tinted hair including highlights
(perm with great care if at all)
Porous Dry, porous hair that has a poor cuticle area(perm with great care if at all)
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CURLY PERM LOTION
Super Resistant hair

Regular Normal hair
Mild Porous/colored hair
Suitability of perm lotions for different hair types
THE PERMING PROCEDURE
Sectioning and perm-winding techniques

There are three basic sectioning and perm-winding techniques that you need to master. They
are:
• brick winding – this is done to avoid any partings resulting from the perm and is ideal
for fine hair
• directional winding – this is carried out when the hair needs perming in a specific
direction and is ideal for clients requiring a parting within the perm
• nine-section winding – this is the most commonly used perm wind when training
as it is easy to learn how to fit all the rods onto the head using this technique. It is
suitable for any hairstyle.
Step-by-step brick winding
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Start at the front hairline taking a Now start the brick effect by Try to angle slightly the section of
section of hair as wide as the perm sectioning underneath the perm rod, hair to be wound, as this will help
therod but not longer than the rod in the centre, to stop a channel line straight rods fit into the roundedwill
prevent ‘baggy’ ends) and wind appearing. Wind another perm rod shape of the head. Once all the hair
the scalp. the other side and the brick wall wound, check the rods are
effect will start to appear. comfortable for your client.
Directional perm winding
Apply barrier cream to the area just Apply a pre-perm treatment to the Using three curlers of various sizes,
below the hairline, taking care not to hair to protect any hair that has been process the hair and evaluate the
apply it to the hair. chemically treated. results.
Apply re-arranger to re-growth area Rinse thoroughly to remove the Allow the perm to process (following
only (if hair has been chemically rearranger and towel dry the hair. manufacturer’s instructions)
treated). Apply to all the hair if not. Apply curl lotion (pre-damping) to
Crosscheck to ensure an even the areas that have been permed
application. Allow to process. and wind the curlers into the direction
of the required style.
Unwind a curler approximately one and- Rinse thoroughly according to Remove curlers taking care not to
a-half turns and push the hair manufacturer’s instructions to overstretch the hair. Rinse
forward towards the scalp allowing it remove the perm lotion. Remove to remove all traces of
to relax into an ‘S’ shape. Test the hair excess water by blotting dry neutralizer and apply conditioner
in different areas. using either a towel or cotton Apply after-care products to
wool. Apply neutralizer to each moisturize hair and activate curls.
curler and allow to process Style as required
according to manufacturer’s
instructions
Nine-section perm winding
This involves dividing the hair into nine neat sections (see right) in readiness for perm
winding. You should copy this technique on a head of hair using a perm rod to measure
each section and checking that a perm rod will fit in each section across the whole
head. Once this is complete, you can start to wind each section. When training, it is
easier to start winding the perm rods from the nape area, beginning in the central
section and then winding left and right nape sections.
When sectioning, you need to follow the same principle as for roller setting by taking the
same size section as the length and width of the perm rod. The section of hair should
then be held at a 90 degree angle (straight out) from the head, the end paper placed on
the hair and, keeping good, even tension on the hair, use both hands to wind the perm
rod towards the scalp. Secure the perm rod close to the scalp by placing the perm
rubber securely over the end of the rod.
Continue winding the centre crown section and then the left and right crown sections.
Lastly, wind the centre top section and then both left and right side sections. It is
important to check whether any of the perm rods are too tight as this can cause a pull
burn, which, if scratched, can become infected and result in folliculitis. This can be done
by visual checking and asking the client if any rods are pulling.
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How to section
Nine sections
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APPLICATION OF PERM LOTION
Protecting technique
This involves either applying pre-perm lotion to the hair to protect any porous areas
from over processing or applying barrier cream to protect the scalp and hairline from
any possible chemical burns from the perm lotion.
Post-damping technique
This is where you apply perm lotion to hair that has been sectioned and wound around
perm rods. When you are training and taking more than half an hour to wind a whole
head of perm rods, this is the safest way of applying your perm lotion and will ensure
that all areas of the head process evenly.
Pre-damping technique
Pre-damping technique involves applying perm lotion to hair that is resistant before
sectioning or winding the perm rods. This technique is often used in salons where the
stylist or perming technician is competent and able to wind a whole head of perm rods
in a very short space of time. It is not recommended that you carry out a whole head of
pre-damping technique while you are learning to perm hair, as you will find it takes
longer to wind the whole head than it does for the perm to be processed. This would
result in an over-processed head of frizzy hair. Protective gloves should always be worn
when pre-damping.
When applying the perm lotion to the hair, always have a piece of cotton wool in your
other hand to remove any splashes. Keep the bottle close to the hair and always apply
to the top and bottom of each wound rod. Start your application at the most resistant
area and continue in a methodical manner until all the rods are covered. Be careful not
to overload the hair so that the perm lotion soaks your client. Once the application is
complete, remove the soiled cotton wool and replace with fresh cotton wool to avoid
hairline irritation and burning. Read the manufacturer’s instructions to see whether you
need to cover the rods with a plastic cap whilst the perm is processing.
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Monitoring curl development during processing
Heat speeds the development of the perming process and should only be used if
advised by the manufacturer’s instructions.
There are two types of heat:

• body heat – trapped by a plastic cap which will retain heat lost from the head
• hairdryers and climazones – can be used to speed up the processing time (usually by
halving the time). Check the manufacturer’s instructions. Because these use dry heat,
you may need to use a plastic cap as well to prevent the perm lotion from drying out and
subsequently not processing (check manufacturer’s instructions).
The processing time is very important and can be monitored accurately by using a
timer. You must refer to the manufacturer’s instructions to work out the length of
processing time needed. This will also be dependent on the client’s hair type, texture
and condition. When it is necessary to check the development of the perm, carefully
unwind a couple of perm rods from different areas over the head. Be careful not to
disturb the curl too much as the hair is in a very fragile state. When the perm has
processed sufficiently, it will look ‘S’ shaped and resemble the size of the rod being
used when gently pushed towards the scalp.
Reality check!
After applying barrier cream and before applying perm lotion, always remember to place
a strip of cotton wool securely around the client’s hairline. The cotton wool will stick to
the barrier cream and will fully protect the client from perm lotion entering the eyes or
running into the ears or down the face.
For your own protection, you must always wear gloves to apply perm lotion to avoid the
risk of dermatitis.
Continue winding the centre crown section and then the left and right crown sections.
Lastly, wind the centre top section and then both left and right side sections. It is
important to check whether any of the perm rods are too tight as this can cause a pull
burn, which, if scratched, can become infected and result in folliculitis. This can be
done by visual checking and asking the client if any rods are pulling.
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THE NEUTRALIZING PROCEDURE
Neutralizing is a permanent process that re-joins the sulphur bonds into their new curled
position. If neutralizing is not carried out correctly, the perm will be unsuccessful and the
client will be disappointed.
Preparing for neutralizing

Always read the manufacturer’s instructions before beginning to neutralize hair. You
must comply with the Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations by wearing
an apron and gloves.
It is advisable to check the client’s gown and towels before beginning to neutralize in
case they need replacing.
Water temperature and flow
You must wear gloves when rinsing the perm lotion from the hair, so it is therefore
important that you keep checking with the client that the water temperature is
comfortable. It is easier to rinse the hair free of perm lotion if the water flow is not too
strong, as too great a flow will soak both you and the client. Always rinse with warm
water, as the scalp may be tender and the hair delicate. The hotter the water the tighter
the curl will become. The cooler the water, the looser the curl will become.
Why rinse thoroughly?

It is vital to the success of the perm that you rinse all the perm lotion from the hair. If any
lotion is left in the hair, it will stop the sulphur bonds from re-forming fully and will result
in a looser curl than expected that could even drop to completely straight.
After rinsing for about five minutes, use a perm indicator towel to test for any residue of
perm lotion (the towel will change color if any lotion is left). When you have rinsed
sufficiently to remove all traces of perm lotion, blot the hair gently with a towel. This will
allow you to sit the client up at the basin and apply a fresh strip of cotton wool around
the hairline for protection. Use a pad of cotton wool to further blot any excess moisture
from the hair, which could dilute the strength of the neutralizer. You are now ready to
apply the neutralizer.
Rinse the perm for at least five minutes
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Applying neutralizer
After reading the manufacturer’s instructions, you will know whether to apply the
neutralizer straight from the bottle (the same technique as applying perm lotion) or if it is
necessary to tip the neutralizer into a bowl, foam up and apply to the hair using a
neutralizing sponge.
A neutralizing sponge and bowl Applying neutralizer
Eye care when neutralizing
If neutralizer sponges are too soaked, the product may drip down the client’s face and
go into her eyes. If this happens, you should rinse the eyes carefully with cold water and
seek the help of a first aider. If there are further problems, advise the client to see her
GP. You will need to fill in an accident report sheet. You will also need to notify your
salon manager and make a note on the client’s record card.
The importance of accurate timing
Once the first application of neutralizer is complete, you should start accurately timing
the development. This timing will be dependent upon the manufacturer’s instructions but
is usually about five minutes. Since this is when the chemicals in the neutralizer (either
hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate) are re-joining the sulphur bonds to their new
partners, it is important the chemicals are given sufficient time to function. If you rush
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the neutralizer, not all the bonds will re-join and the hair may be left weak and straight
looking. If the neutralizer is left on too long, this could result in over processing the hair
into a straight frizz.
Removing perm rods correctly
The removal of the perm rods is the next step once the time for the first application of
neutralizer has elapsed.
You should then gently unwind each perm rod removing the end paper as you work.
When all the rods have been removed, apply a second application of neutralizer to the
hair paying particular attention to the ends of the hair, which may not have been fully
covered whilst wound around the rod. This is a more common problem when
neutralizing long hair. Once again, timing is important and you must be guided by the
manufacturer’s instructions.
Removing all neutralizer
When the time for the second application of neutralizer has elapsed, rinse the
neutralizer thoroughly from the hair. Again, it is important to make sure all traces of the
neutralizer are removed as the chemical ingredients may carry on working if left in the
hair. This is called creeping oxidation and can affect the success of the perm. To avoid
this happening, a surface conditioner containing anti-oxidant properties (herbal anti-oxy)
is commonly applied, gently massaged into the hair and then removed by rinsing.
COPING WITH PERMING AND NEUTRALIZING PROBLEMS
PERMING PROBLEMS REASON ACTION

Perm slow to take Cold salon temperature; Use added heat –
wrong selection of perm dryer/climazone; re-damp
lotion; with stronger lotion; re-
lotion evaporated; damp with same lotion
insufficient lotion applied
Perm processing too Hair too porous, allowing Remove any extra heat;
quickly lotion to enter hair shaft too remove cap if used; rinse
quickly ;hair too dry when hair
lotion applied; very hot
salon
Hair breakage Too much tension; lotion Use restructuring or deep
too strong for hair type; penetrating conditioner.
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over processing
Rubber banding Marks Wound too tight Use restructurant
Hairline and scalp Cuts, abrasions on scalp; Rinse immediately using

irritation cap and wool left around cool water
hairline; too much lotion
applied
Fish hooks Hair ends buckled or bent Remove by cutting
during winding
Frizziness Over processing; lotion too Cut if possible; use
strong; rods too small restructurant or deep
penetrating conditioner
Uneven curl Formation Lotion applied unevenly; Re-perm if hair is in good
rod tension uneven condition
Too tight curl Over processed; rod size Deep condition; assess
too small hair condition for relaxing
Problem Reason Action

NEUTRALIZING PROBLEMS
The chart below identifies the problems that may arise with neutralizing and what action
you should take.
Problem
NEUTRALIZING REASON ACTION
PROBLEMS
Frizziness Over processing Cut if possible
Uneven curl formation Neutralizer applied Use restructurant or deep
unevenly penetrating condition
conditioner; re-perm if hair
in good condition
Rea
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Self-Check 3.2
Direction: Complete the Table below
PERMING & REASON ACTION

NEUTRALIZING
PROBLEMS
Perm slow to take Cold salon temperature;
wrong selection of perm
lotion;
lotion evaporated;
Perm processing too Hair too porous, allowing
quickly lotion to enter hair shaft too
quickly ;hair too dry when
salon
Hair breakage Use restructuring or deep
penetrating conditioner.
Rubber banding Marks Wound too tight
Hairline and scalp Cuts, abrasions on scalp;

irritation cap and wool left around
applied
Fish hooks Remove by cutting
Frizziness Cut if possible; use

restructurant or deep
penetrating conditioner
Uneven curl Formation Lotion applied unevenly;
rod tension uneven
Too tight curl Deep condition; assess
hair condition for relaxing
Problem Reason Action
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Problem
Rea
Answer Key 3.2
PERMING PROBLEMS REASON ACTION

Perm slow to take Cold salon temperature; Use added heat –
wrong selection of perm dryer/climazone; re-damp
lotion; with stronger lotion; re-
lotion evaporated; damp with same lotion
Perm processing too Hair too porous, allowing Remove any extra heat;
quickly lotion to enter hair shaft too remove cap if used;
quickly ;hair too dry when rinse hair
salon
Hair breakage Too much tension; lotion Use restructuring or deep
too strong for hair penetrating conditioner.
type; over processing
Rubber banding Marks Wound too tight Use restructurant
Hairline and scalp Cuts, abrasions on scalp; Rinse immediately using

irritation cap and wool left around cool water
applied
Fish hooks Hair ends buckled or Remove by cutting
bent during winding
Frizziness Over processing; lotion Cut if possible; use
too strong; rods too restructurant or deep
small penetrating conditioner
Uneven curl Formation Lotion applied unevenly; Re-perm if hair is in good
rod tension uneven condition
Too tight curl Over processed; rod size Deep condition; assess
too small hair condition for relaxing
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TASK SHEET 3.2
Title: Perm Hair
Performance Objective: Given one competency of the qualification assigned to

you, you should be able to perform basic hair perming
according to service requirements
Supplies/Materials : Applicator, Apron, Cape, Bath Towel, Curler (all sizes),

Conditioner, Drip Pan, Cotton, Ear Pads, Flannel head band, End Paper ,Hairclips,
Infra red equipment/dryer, Neutralizer, Mannequin /live model, Perm solution, Perm Cap,
Powder, Razor/Scissor, Roll tissue, Regular curlers/rods, Rubber Band, Shower cap,
Rubber Gloves, Tail Comb, Shampoo, Trolley , Wave products
Equipment: Blow-dryer
Steps/Procedure:
1. Check and analyze condition and type of hair

2. Determine previous treatment applied on client’s hair
3. Check scalp condition if free from disorder
4. Confirm and record desired outcome with client
5. Provide client with protective covering
6. Prepare necessary tool and equipment, supplies and materials
7. Ensure client’s safety and comfort during the entire process
8. Section and winds hair according to client’s requirement
9. Select and use wave products according to hair texture/ condition and
manufacturer’s instructions
10. Cover wound hair with plastic cap or expose to dry heat
11. Apply hair with neutralizer
12. Remove curlers/rollers and slightly massage the scalp using shampoo
13. Rinse the hair thoroughly, apply hair conditioner and towel dry
14. Check the hair according to desired cut of the client and tampered/
trimmed if necessary
15. Advise the client on appropriate perm maintenance products.
16. Evaluate output using the performance criteria
17. Present your work to your trainer.
Assessment Method:
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Performance Criteria Checklist 3.2
CRITERIA YES NO
Did you….
1. Check and analyze condition and type of hair?
2. Determine previous treatment applied on client’s

hair?
3. Check scalp condition if free from disorder?
4. Confirm and record desired outcome with client?
5. Provide client with protective covering?
6. Prepare necessary tool and equipment, supplies

and materials?
7. Ensure client’s safety and comfort during the
entire process?
8. Section and winds hair according to client’s
requirement?
9. Select and use wave products according to hair
texture/ condition and manufacturer’s
instructions?
10. Cover wound hair with plastic cap or expose to
dry heat?
11. Apply hair with neutralizer?
12. Remove curlers/rollers and slightly massage the

scalp using shampoo?
13. Rinse the hair thoroughly; apply hair conditioner
and towel dry?
14. Check the hair according to desired cut of the
client and tampered/ trimmed if necessary?
15. Advise the client on appropriate perm
maintenance products?
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LO3. TITLE : Perform Finishing Touches
1. Hair is checked according to agreed outcome.

3. Client’s satisfaction is confirmed and adjustments are made if required.
CONTENTS:
1. Evaluation of perm result

2. Tapering/trimming procedures
3. Types of finishing products (Product knowledge)
 Cape  Blower
 Barber brush  Talcum powder
 Cutting scissors  Finishing products
 Wide tooth comb  Trolley
METHODOLOGIES:
 Lecture
 Discussion
 Hands-on
ASSESSMENT METHODS:
 Demonstration
 Oral questioning
 Interview
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“Perform Finishing Touches”
EVALUATION OF PERM RESULT
After the perming process, you must evaluate the permed result; hair is checked
according to agreed outcome. Use creative finishing techniques to achieve the desired
permed effect, hair is tapered / trimmed if necessary. Ensure the finished permed effect
complements your client’s features and enhances their personal image and that of the
salon. Confirm your client’s satisfaction with the finished effect and adjustments are
made if required.
It is always recommended that you cut the hair after the perm and not before a
perm. Simply by waiting until after the perm to cut your hair, the amount of split ends a
perm leaves you with will be minimized. The most hair damage a perm causes it to the
ends of your hair. By waiting until after the perm for your hair cut, you are cutting away
most of the hair damaged. This will make your newly permed hair less frizzy and more
manageable.
Or at least, most of the length can be removed, but the final shaping (little details,
thinning, etc) needs to be done AFTER the perm. The hair has a different shape once
the hair has been changed, and you need to make adjustments to the cut so that it
looks good. A good hair cut involves more than just removing length -- any idiot can do
that. But you also need to know how to remove more or less here and there to create
more volume, to allow a curl to form, to make it hold a shape here. You cannot do that
until you can see how the hair looks in the "normal" state. That is why the hairdresser
usually cuts the hair when it is damp, to see what the normal shape of the hair is and
can work with it.
There is absolutely NO damage done to the hair when it is cut, other than it is
shorter. In terms of a perm, you want to remove any excess length, but leave enough to
work with. It can be cut later for the final shaping. In your case, since it may not be too
long, it may be best to get the perm first (or relaxing) and then cut after. If the perm is
done properly, cutting is not going to hurt the curl.
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TASK SHEET 3.3
Title: Perform Finishing Touches
Performance Objective: Given one competency of the qualification assigned to

you, you should be able to perform finishing touches
according to service requirements
Supplies/Materials : • Cape, Barber brush, Cutting scissors, Wide tooth comb,

Talcum powder, Finishing products, Trolley
Equipment: Blow-dryer
Steps/Procedure:
1. Evaluate the permed result

2. Check the permed hair according agreed outcome
4. Use creative finishing techniques to achieve the desired permed effect
5. Ensure the finished permed effect complements your client’s features
6. Confirm your client’s satisfaction with the finished effect
7. Advise the client on appropriate perm maintenance products.
8. Evaluate output using the performance criteria
9. Present your work to your trainer.
Assessment Method:
Performance Criteria Checklist 3.3
CRITERIA YES NO
Did you….
1. Evaluate the permed result?
2. Check the permed hair according agreed

outcome?
3. Tapered / trimmed the permed hair if necessary?
4. Use creative finishing techniques to achieve the

desired permed effect?
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5. Ensure that the finished permed effect
complements your client’s features?
6. Confirm your client’s satisfaction with the finished
effect?
7. Advise the client on appropriate perm
maintenance products?
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LO4. TITLE : Perform Post-Service Activities
1. Client is advised on the appropriate proper hair care and maintenance to be

used.
2. Tools, equipment, supplies and materials are cleaned and stored according to
salon procedures.
3. Treatment products used are stored following salon procedures.
4. Waste materials are disposed according occupational health and safety
requirements.
CONTENTS:
 Home hair care and maintenance

 Tools, equipment, supplies and materials: Cleaning, and storing
 Salon procedures in storing treatment products
 Good housekeeping
 Maintaining tools and equipment
 Waste disposal
 Occupational health and safety requirements
 Cleaning tools, supplies and materials

 Client’s record
 OHS manual
 Sample waste treatment products
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METHODOLOGIES:
 Lecture
 Discussion
 Hands-on
 Video presentation
ASSESSMENT METHODS:
 Written examination
 Demonstration
 Oral Questioning
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“Perform Post-Service Activities”
HOME HAIR CARE AND MAINTENANCE FOR PERMED HAIR
An increasingly important part of the hairdresser’s role is giving after-care advice to

clients and recommending products clients can use to care for their style between visits
to the salon.
You may feel uncomfortable with this part of your work to start with, particularly if
you see it as ‘selling’ unwanted products to your client. But bear in mind that you
wouldn’t consider styling hair without these products so why should your client have to.
Any time you add chemicals to your hair, it causes damages. Perms cause the most
damage to your hair and hair follicles. For this reason the after care of a perm is so
important. Perms rearrange the hair follicles and force the follicles to take the shape of a
new pattern. The strong chemicals used in perms cause this rearrangement, and cause
damage to your hair. You may not notice it immediately, but without proper care, perm
damage becomes more and more evident.
Getting a perm can be a lot of fun. It gives your hair a lot of versatility and style. Just
follow these simple steps and you can keep your hair healthy and curly for a long time.
1. You should shampoo your hair only 24 or 48 hours after perming process.
This is because your hair is very fragile and it needs time to adjust to the
chemicals used in your treatment. You can wet it but do not wash it for 24 hours.
2. Use a shampoo which is specially meant for “chemically treated hair.”

These suit your chemically treated hair as they have gentle ingredients. All other
shampoos are too strong for your fragile hair which may contain harsh chemicals.
Chemically treated shampoos are made with more gentle ingredients. They will
cleanse your hair without drying it out.
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3. After shampooing, it is very important that you condition your hair. It is a myth
that conditioner will relax and ruin your perm. Using the right conditioner is the
trick. Use a conditioner which is meant for chemically treated hair as it will help to
keep your perm softer and last longer. Conditioner not only closes the cuticle but
also act as a detangler.
4. After shampooing and conditioning gently towel dry your hair. Do not rub it
around too much in the towel. This will cause your hair to be matted and hard to
comb.
5. Do not blow dry your hair, this prevents frizz and split ends. Instead air dry
them or use a diffuser with a cool setting.
6. Avoid using comb through your hair in the first 24 hours. Instead use your
fingers to comb through your hair and then comb with a wide toothed comb.
7. Use a perm rejuvenator product once or twice a week to help maintain the
perm and make it last longer. Perm rejuvenators are usually misted onto damp
hair during the styling process to add extra shine and bounce to the curls.
8. Do not tie your hair into a ponytail or a bun. Let your hair open for 1 day or 2
days. It will avoid any deformation in your curls and help to maintain its shape.
9. Trim your hair every 4-5 weeks. This will not only keep your hair healthy but will
also spring up your curls.
10. Cover your hair when you go out in the sun. The UV rays from the sun can
damage your permed tresses. If you go for swimming, wear a swimming cap to
protect your hair from chlorine.
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Self-Check 3.4
Direction: Discuss briefly:
a. The importance of proper home care and maintenance of permed hair.

b. The proper home care and maintenance of permed hair.
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Answer Key 3.4
1. Perms cause the most damage to your hair and hair follicles. For this reason the
proper home care and maintenance of a perm is so important. It gives your hair a
lot of versatility and style. Proper care can keep your hair healthy and curly for a
long time
2. The first rule of after care when getting a perm is not to wash your hair for at
least 24 hours. Use a shampoo which is specially meant for “chemically treated
hair”. After shampooing your hair it is essential that you condition it. Choose a
light conditioner for your hair that is also for chemically treated hair. After
shampooing and conditioning gently towel dry your hair, do not blow dry your
hair. Avoid using comb through your hair in the first 24 hours. Use a perm
rejuvenator product and do not tie your hair into a ponytail or a bun. Trim your
hair every 4-5 weeks. Cover your hair when you go out in the sun.
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HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

Welcome to the competency-based learning material for the module:

RECOGNITION OF PRIOR LEARNING (RPL)

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : PERFORM BASIC HAIR PERMING

MODULE TITLE : BASIC HAIR PERMING

This module contains information and suggested learning outcomes activities on

This module consists of 4 learning outcomes. Each Learning outcome contains

SUMMARY OF LEARNING OUTCOMES:

AT THE COMPLETION OF THIS MODULE THE LEARNER MUST BE ABLE TO:

Lo1. Prepare Client

Lo2. Perm Hair

Lo3. Apply Finishing Touch

Lo4. Perform Post Service Activities

Refer to assessment criteria of learning outcomes # of this module

1. Client is advised to remove all personal accessories.

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : PERFORM BASIC HAIR PERMING

MODULE TITLE : BASIC HAIR PERMING

LO1. TITLE : Prepare Client

1. Client is advised to remove all personal accessories.

1. Use of Protective clothing

CONDITION: The learner should be provided with the following:

Preparing and Protecting Client

Preparing the hair for perming

Hair tests for perming and neutralizing

Some chemicals do not work well together (they are

• Mix together (preferably in a glass bowl) 40 ml of 20

Pre-perm test curl

When handling fragile, porous hair or hair with a doubtful

It is not always suitable or possible to carry out a test curl on

• Wind two or three rods of your chosen size in the hair.

Development test curl

• Hold perm rod and undo rubber fastener.

When not to perm

Direction: Discuss briefly the following and its procedure:

4. Pre-perm Test Curl

5. Development Test Curl

Mix together (preferably in a glass bowl) 40 ml of 20 volume hydrogen peroxide and 2 ml

• Wind two or three rods of your chosen size in the hair.

• Hold perm rod and undo rubber fastener.

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : PERFORM BASIC HAIR PERMING

MODULE TITLE : BASIC HAIR PERMING

LO2. TITLE : Perm Hair

1. Preparation and use of tools, supplies, and equipment

CONDITION: The learner should be provided with the following:

ACCESSORIES/TOOLS/EQUIPMENT SUPPLIES AND MATERIALS

PERMING AND NEUTRALISING PRODUCTS

Acid perm lotion

Alkaline perm lotion

Single action perm

PERM LOTION HAIR TYPE

Super Resistant hair

Suitability of perm lotions for different hair types

THE PERMING PROCEDURE

Sectioning and perm-winding techniques

Step-by-step brick winding

Directional perm winding

Nine-section perm winding

There are two types of heat:

Preparing for neutralizing

Why rinse thoroughly?

Rinse the perm for at least five minutes

A neutralizing sponge and bowl Applying neutralizer

Eye care when neutralizing