NLPWM V2.

1 Illuminated Switch Tutorial

The basics:

Understanding how illuminated switches work will help with selecting the right one for
your project as well as how to wire it. If you search for “illuminated switch” on eBay or Amazon,
you’ll see there’s a million choices with different ratings and pinouts.

While they can seem complicated, they’re really just two components in one; a switch
and an LED. We use normally open, momentary on switches all the time like Mitecs and similar.
On 4 pin illuminated switches the two switch pins are normally not marked.

The second component is the LED. These are usually marked with a +(anode) and
-(cathode). Keep in mind that the LED and switch are separated from each other.

Ratings:

It’s important to read the specs for the switch you’d like to use. Since the fire switch
setup on the NLPWM V2.1 is only 5VDC and 20uA, any one should be fine for that, but some
have an internal current limiting resistor for the LED. Always check the datasheet, but these
can usually be noted by a “5v” or “12v” rating on the switch itself.
Diagrams:

We have two wiring options for an illuminated switch on the NLPWM V2.1.

1. Unmarked or one setup for 5v. Note that a switch with 5v LED doesn’t need a resistor. The
advantage to wiring it like this is you can turn the LED on/off while firing using the settings menu
-> LED.

You can jump the pink pin with the light blue, as they’re common GND connections***
One needs to be wired to the corresponding pin on the board, though.
 2. Wiring the LED straight to the 510. This wiring would work with any LED using the correct
current limiting resistor. LED anode will always have positive battery voltage, but the cathode
will switch with the atomizer and illuminate.