Contents

1 Wiring 2
1.1 Power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
1.1.1 High-power circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Wires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Connections . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Grounding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
1.1.2 Logic circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
1.2 Peripherals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
1.2.1 Fire switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
1.2.2 Controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Up/down switches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Potentiometer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
1.2.3 Displays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
LED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
LED strip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Digital voltmeter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Analog voltmeter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.3 Diagrams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.3.1 SmartPWM v2.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.3.2 NLWPM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

1
1 Wiring
1.1 Power

The sPWM v3 can be powered by 2S/3S/4S

battery packs/cells of various chemistries:
LiPo/LiOn/IMR. . . Maximum output power
depends on both of these factors: the optimal
setup in this regard would be LiPo/4S, the most
conservative LiOn/2S.

1.1.1 High-power circuit

Main power goes from your battery pack (BAT+) to

your atomizer and back (BAT-), through the on-
board MOSFET (gure 1.1.1).

Wires
These wires must be of a appropriate gauge to han-
dle the amps that will ow through them. Ide-
Figure 1.1.1: Powering the sPWM v3.
ally, they should also be as short as possible: twice
shorter means a halved resistivity. Overall, the
lower resistance these wires oer, the smaller volt- This is true as well of any metallic casing the 510
age drop and higher max-power you will achieve. connector is t on. Care must be taken to avoid
Actual wire gauge depends on the battery setup shorts with other peripherals actual grounds. Fail-
and intended use. The board power holes are ure to do so might irreversibly damage the chip.
2.2mm wide, large enough for 12 gauge wire. That's
wider than most setups will ask for: generally
1.1.2 Logic circuit
speaking, 14 gauge is ne .
1
For best results the board should be powered from

Connections the 510+ connector to the VIN pad, allowing more

Similarly, connections and soldering should favor
low resistivity. The board has two wide pads on the
front and specially the back side (gure 2) that you
can take advantage of. We suggest using a healthy
layer of solder to increase conductivity. Just avoid
bridging anything. :)
Grounding
Like its predecessors, the sPWM v3 modulates vap-
ing power using an N-channel MOSFET on the low-
side. Therefore, the 510- connection (brown) is not
ground. It actually varies from ground/BAT- when
current ows, to the battery voltage BAT+
does not.
1
See on page ?? for AWG-mm conversion.
accurate voltage sensing, therefore more accurate
absolute regulation .
2
Like all the following wires, this one can be much
thiner than high-power wires. Logic pin holes have
a 1mm diameter, good enough for 24-28 gauge
wires. However, if you really want to be picky, you
can opt for a wire on the thicker side here: lower
resistivity means better voltage sensing.
1.2 Peripherals
The sPWM distinguishes itself by the many periph-
erals it is able to interact with, thus oering a wide
when it range of mounting options.
2
If you power it straight from BAT+ instead, your voltage
setting will include the positive wire voltage drop.

2
1.2. PERIPHERALS CHAPTER 1. WIRING

Figure 1.2.2: Up/down switches.

Figure 1.2.1: Fire switch.

On the input side, user can choose between a reg-

ular potentiometer and up/down switches. On the
output side, the choice is between a simple LED, a
digital voltmeter that will serve as a digital display,
or an analog voltmeter. The board auto-detects the
peripherals it has been connected to and adapts its
behavior accordingly .
3

Figure 1.2.3: Potentiometer.

1.2.1 Fire switch

The re switch connects to the re pin and the com-
mon ground (gure 1.2.1).
Potentiometer
Any SPST, momentary-ON switch will do. For
A potentiometer is a good way to provide a visual
hardcore modders, the board embeds a solid de-
feedback on the power setting when no real display
bouncing mechanism that should cope well with ex-
is present.
otic custom-made switches.
Any 10k W potentiometer will work4 . A linear po-
tentiometer will oer a better power curve than a

1.2.2 Controls logarithmic one.

The wiper leg connects to its dedicated pin on the

Controls are mainly used to set the output voltage. 5
board , while the 0% leg connects to the common
ground (gure 1.2.3).

Up/down switches
Up and down switches provide the most accurate
way to adjust power. Coupled with a digital volt-
1.2.3 Displays
meter they will oer a user experience comparable
to a NLPWM.
We rank in this category all peripherals providing
They connect to their respective pin and to the the user with feedback on the state of the board,
common ground (gure 1.2.2). Here again, any
4
SPST momentary-ON switch will do. It does not need to be very accurate: the board can be
adjusted post-build to a specic potentiometer setup (see
3
It is also possible to manually force a particular mode by Advanced settings).
5
going into the settings. This can be useful in corner cases It is recommended to connect the wiper to the 100% leg
or when using exotic components. as well.

3
1.2. PERIPHERALS
Figure 1.2.4: LED.
batteries, etc 6 .
LED
A LED is the simplest component you can use in
this regard. Although more limited in nature than
the following alternatives, it will still provide use-
ful information by pulsing and blinking at dierent
speeds.
Its anode connects to the dedicated pin on the
board while its cathode connects to the common
ground (gure 1.2.4).
A 330 W resistor limits current to 15mA, which
should be OK in most cases. However, if the LED is
too bright, it is possible to add an external resistor
in series to further limit current.
LED strip
If more than 15mA are needed, for example in case
of a powerful LED or a LED strip, it will have to
be powered independently (straight from BAT+ to
BAT-)7 . In such a scenario, the board drives the
strip using an external N-channel MOSFET on the
low-side.
The MOSFET must be connected as follows:
drain to the strip negative end, source to BAT-, gate
to the LED pin on the board (gure 1.2.5).
6
Using one of these peripherals is not mandatory: the board
will happily run without any, would you decide to go that
route.
7 9
An external current-limiting series resistor might be re-
quired as well, depending on the chosen light emitting
component(s).
4
CHAPTER 1. WIRING
Figure 1.2.5: LED strip.
Digital voltmeter
A digital voltmeter will oer the most complete
feedback: it is driven by the board into a 7-segment
display.
The board is optimized for a 3-wires, 0.28 volt-
meter as is commonly used in box mods . Larger
8
voltmeters will likely require more than 15mA and
will need to be powered externally (see LED strip).
As the sPWM uses 0.1V increments for output
voltage, a voltmeter with a single decimal will yield
the best results in terms of user experience. This
becomes mandatory when aiming for a NLPWM-
like digital interface. Although they do work, volt-
meters displaying 2 decimals are most often unable
to attain a 0.01V accuracy, thus leading to unsatis-
factory results or even jumpiness .
9
Additionally, opt for a voltmeter with a tiny po-
tentiometer at the back, allowing slight adjustments
using a screw-driver.
Connection goes as shown in gure 1.2.6. Power
comes from the LED pin (red) to the common
ground; The sense wire (yellow) connects to the VM
pin.
8
2-wires voltmeters are more limited in nature and are un-
able to oer the user experience a 3-wire voltmeter is.
For example, they are unable to display low voltages as
they are powered through their sense wire. Although we
do not recommend it, you can still use one (see Analog
voltmeter for wiring).
Be careful when shopping for a voltmeter: all 3 digits volt-
meters will of course show a single decimal above 10.0V,
but many will switch to 2 decimals 9.99V and below.
1.3. DIAGRAMS CHAPTER 1. WIRING

1.3.1 SmartPWM v2.2

A simple setup using a potentiometer control and a

pulsing LED (gure 1.3.1).

1.3.2 NLWPM

A more advanced setup with up/down switches and

7-segments display (gure 1.3.2).

Figure 1.2.6: Digital voltmeter.

Figure 1.2.7: Analog voltmeter.

Analog voltmeter

Analog voltmeters only require 2 wires. Unlike 2-

wires digital voltmeters however, they can display
very low voltages.

They connect to the VM pin and the common

ground (gure 1.2.7).

1.3 Diagrams

We cannot oer full diagrams for every setup possi-

ble (there are too many!), but here are full diagrams
for two common setups.

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1.3. DIAGRAMS CHAPTER 1. WIRING

Figure 1.3.1: SmartPWM v2.2 setup.

Figure 1.3.2: NLPWM setup.