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NPP Service Manual

5 Mechanical maintenance

5.1 Lifting points

CAUTION

Lift or jack up the truck and support it with safety blocks or rigid stands.

Apply wheel chocks to the load wheels to prevent the truck from moving.

5.1.1 Jack points

Figure 17 below indicates the correct jack points for lifting the truck up for maintenance.

Figure 17. Jack points

5.1.2 Hoist points

Figure 18 below indicates the correct hoist points for hoisting the truck up for
maintenance. Make sure that the capacity of the lifting device is sufficient.

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Figure 18. Hoist points

5.2 Transportation

When transporting the truck, it is important that you secure it safely to prevent it from
moving. Also support the traction wheel with blocks.

CAUTION

Do not tie the truck from the tiller arm or it may break.

Figure 19 below shows an example on how to secure the truck safely for transportation.

Figure 19. Securing the truck for transportation

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5.3 Ordering spare parts

When ordering spare parts, always contact your maintenance centre. Only use original
spare parts. To ensure that you receive the correct parts, include the following
information in your order:

• Truck type
• Serial number of the truck
• Order number of the part
• Name of the part
• Number of parts ordered

5.4 Opening the covers

CAUTION

Before opening the truck’s covers, turn the key switch to the OFF position and
disconnect the battery plug/connector.

Figure 20. Truck covers overview

1. Front cover 3. Battery cover


2. Control panel

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5.4.1 Front cover

WARNING

Never drive the truck without the electrical panel cover in place.

1. Remove the four screws at the top of


the front cover.

2. Lift the front cover off the attachment points at the base of the front cover.

5.4.2 Control panel

Figure 21. Control panel overview

1. Control panel 3. Emergency switch connector


2. Key switch connector 4. Display connector

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1. Remove the two screws holding the


control panel in place.

2. Disconnect the emergency switch,


key switch and display connectors.
3. Remove the control panel.

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5.4.3 Battery cover

Figure 22. Battery cover overview

1. Locking button 2. Battery cover

1. Push the locking button down and


leave it open.

2. Open the battery cover.

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NOTE: When closing the battery cover, make sure that the locking button returns all
the way to the locking position.

5.4.3.1 Removing the battery cover lock

Figure 23. Battery cover lock overview

1. Remove the screw holding the


battery cover lock in place.
2. Remove the lock.

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5.4.3.2 Removing the battery cover’s rubber absorbers

Figure 24. Battery cover’s rubber absorbers

Remove the battery cover’s rubber absorbers by simply screwing them out.

5.5 Transmission gear

Figure 25. Transmission gear overview

There is no need to change the transmission gear lubricant during the truck's lifetime.

During maintenance, check the transmission gear for any leaks.

Transmission gear oil SAE 80W/90, API GL-5

Total transmission oil quantity 1.05 L

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CAUTION

Transmission oil is hazardous waste that must be disposed of accordingly.

5.6 Bogie bearing

Figure 26. Bogie bearing overview

There is no need to change the bogie bearing lubricant during the truck's lifetime.

During maintenance, check the following:

• The bearing rotates easily when the traction wheel is raised up.
• The drive unit’s mounting bolts are tightened properly.

5.7 Traction wheel

CAUTION

Before installing the traction wheel, make sure that the wheel shaft, the face of the rim
mounting, the wheel nuts and wheel bolts are clean, free from grease and undamaged.

NOTE: To access the traction wheel, lift the truck up (see the correct lifting points in
section 5.1) and turn the transmission gear so that there is enough space for you to
access and remove the wheel.

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Figure 27. Traction wheel overview

Check the wear of the traction wheel:

• The diameter of a new traction wheel is 230 mm.


• When the traction wheel’s diameter reaches 218 mm, replace the traction wheel.

5.7.1 Disassembly of the traction wheel

1. Remove the five rounded cone nuts


holding the traction wheel in place.
2. Remove the traction wheel.
3. Check the condition of the wheel
shaft bolts. Replace the bolts, if
needed. For instructions, see section
5.7.1.1 below.

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5.7.1.1 Replacing the wheel shaft bolts

Figure 28. Wheel shaft bolts overview

If the wheel shaft bolts of the traction wheel are defective, you need to replace them.

1. Unscrew the defective wheel shaft


bolt.

2. Use e.g. a rod or a crowbar to lock


the wheel shaft in place.

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3. Wet the new wheel shaft bolt with


Loctite 243.

4. Install the new wheel shaft bolt.

5. Tighten the new wheel shaft bolt.


The correct tightening torque is
27 Nm.

5.7.2 Assembly of the traction wheel

1. Align the rim’s hole pattern with the


wheel shaft bolts and slide the
traction wheel into place.
2. Install the five rounded cone nuts
and tighten them. The correct
tightening torque for the nuts is
80 Nm.

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5.8 Load wheels

Figure 29. Load wheels overview

Check the wear of the load wheels:

• The diameter of a new load wheel is 85 mm.


• It is recommended that the load wheel is replaced when its diameter reaches
76 mm.

NOTE: To access the load wheels, lift up the forks and the truck so that the load
wheels are off the floor (see the correct lifting points in section 5.1) and turn the load
wheel so that you can access the bolt holding the wheel in place.

Before you remove the forks or the load wheels, support the frame and forks of the
truck against the floor.

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Disassembly of the load wheel:

1. Remove the bolt holding the load


wheel in the bracket.
2. Remove the load wheel from the
bracket.
3. Check the condition of the slide
bearing. Replace the part, if needed.
4. Check the condition of the bracket
shafts. Replace the part, if needed.

Assembly of the load wheel:

1. Place the load wheel into the bracket.


2. Push the bolt through the bracket and the load wheel. Be careful not to damage
the bolt threads.
3. Tighten the bolt holding the load wheel in the bracket.
4. Check that the load wheel rotates properly.

5.9 Lifting system and fork carriage

Figure 30. Lifting system and fork carriage overview

1. Fork carriage shaft 5. Tub pin


2. Link 6. Push rod shaft
3. Chassis shaft 7. Load wheel fork shaft
4. Slide bearing

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The lift cylinder handles the lifting of the fork carriage, while the push rod mechanism
assists in raising the fork tips. For stable lifting, it is important that there is not too much
play in the linkage mechanism. Below you can find the instructions regarding the
disassembly of the linkage mechanism. Assemble the linkage mechanism by repeating
the steps in reversed order.

NOTE: Before you remove the forks or the load wheels, support the frame and forks
of the truck against the floor.

Disassembly of the linkage mechanism:

1. On the wheel fork side, remove the


tub pin from the load wheel fork
shaft.
2. Remove the load wheel fork shaft.

3. On the linkage mechanism’s fork


carriage side, open the screw from
the fork carriage shaft.
4. Screw a bolt (size M8) onto the
threads at the end of the fork
carriage shaft and use a slide pull
hammer to pull the shaft out.
5. On the chassis side of the linkage
mechanism, open the screw of the
chassis shaft.
6. Remove the chassis shaft.

7. Remove the tub pin from push rod


shaft.
8. Remove the push rod shaft.

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9. Remove the slide bearings from the


wheel fork.

10. Remove the tub pin from the link.


11. Remove the shaft.
12. Remove the slide bearings from the
link.

5.10 Castor wheels

Figure 31. Castor wheel overview

Check the wear of the castor wheels:

• The diameter of a new castor wheel is 98 mm.


• It is recommended that the castor wheel is replaced when its diameter reaches
90 mm.

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NOTE: To access the castor wheels, lift the truck up (see the correct lifting points in
section 5.1).

5.10.1 Disassembly of the castor wheel

1. Open the nut holding the castor


wheel bolt in the bracket.
2. Remove the bolt holding the castor
wheel in the bracket.
3. Remove the castor wheel from the
bracket.

4. Remove the sleeves from the


bearing and save them.

5.10.2 Assembly of the castor wheel

1. Install the sleeves into the new castor wheel.


2. Place the castor wheel into the bracket.
3. Push the bolt through the bracket and the castor wheel. Be careful not to damage
the bolt threads.
4. Install and tighten the nut to the bolt.
5. Check that the castor wheel rotates properly.

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5.11 Castor wheel suspension

Figure 32. Castor wheel suspension overview

The castor wheel suspension mechanism makes the truck more stable. Check the
condition of the suspension rubbers at every maintenance. Also the wear of the castor
wheels and the traction wheel have a considerable effect on the truck’s driving
capability.

When the castor wheel suspension mechanism needs to be serviced, it is easiest to


remove the whole system from the truck frame. The procedure is described below.

NOTE: To access the castor wheel suspension mechanism, lift the truck up (see the
correct lifting points in section 5.1).

1. Remove the four nuts attaching the


castor wheel suspension mechanism to
the truck frame.
2. Remove the castor wheel suspension
mechanism.

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Disassembly of the castor wheel unit:

1. Remove the bolts and the nuts


attaching the castor wheel unit to the
castor wheel suspension
mechanism.
2. Remove the castor wheel unit.

Assembly of the castor wheel unit:

1. Install the castor wheel unit.


2. Tighten the bolts and the nuts attaching the castor wheel unit to the castor wheel
suspension mechanism.
3. Check that there is not too much play in the bearing of the castor wheel unit.
4. Check that the castor wheel rotates properly.

Disassembly of the rubber spring:

1. Remove the bolt and the nut holding


the rubber spring in place.
2. Remove the rubber spring and the
washers by pulling them to the side.

Assembly of the rubber spring:

1. Install the rubber spring and the washers.


2. Tighten the bolt and the nut keeping the rubber spring in place. Do not over
tighten! Always use a new locking nut and tighten the nut only so much that the
locking part of the nut is on the threads.

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5.12 Tiller arm

Figure 33. Tiller arm overview

1. Tiller arm 3. Tiller connector


2. Tiller attachment crown

Removing the tiller arm:

1. Remove the covers. For instructions, see section 5.4.

2. Remove the tiller connectors from


the motor.

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3. Remove the brake wires from the


connector using the extraction tool
(RL360058).

4. Remove the bolts attaching the tiller


attachment crown to the magnetic
brake.
5. Remove the tiller attachment crown
and the tiller arm.

During the installation of the tiller arm, tighten the bolts of the tiller attachment crown
first by hand to make sure they fit the threads correctly. After that, cross-tighten the
bolts with a power tool, making sure that the crown is aligned correctly.

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5.13 Tiller arm joint

Figure 34. Tiller arm joint overview

1. Aisle pipe 7. Mounting plate


2. Locking spring 8. Locking screw
3. Gas spring 9. Tiller joint shaft
4. Tiller attachment crown 10. Bearings
5. Tiller arm joint 11. Wire clip
6. Tiller sensor

Disassembly of the tiller arm joint:

1. Remove the tiller arm and the tiller attachment crown. For instructions, see
section 5.12.
2. Remove the tiller head. For instructions, see section 8.1.1.

3. Remove the lower bolt from the tiller


arm.
4. Pull the aisle pipe up.

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5. Remove the locking spring from the


gas spring’s head.

6. Remove the cable tie attaching the


wiring to the gas spring.

7. Remove the screws attaching the


tiller attachment crown to the tiller
joint.
8. Carefully pull the tiller attachment
crown and the gas spring away from
the tiller joint.

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9. Remove the screws attaching the


tiller sensor to the tiller joint.
10. Remove the tiller sensor wire from
the stick-on wire clip.
11. Remove the tiller sensor.

12. Pull the wiring out from the tiller arm


joint. Be careful not to damage the
wiring.

13. Remove the gas spring from the


mounting plate.
14. Remove the screws attaching the
mounting plate to the tiller
attachment crown.
15. Remove the mounting plate.

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16. Pull the wiring through the tiller


attachment crown. Be careful not to
damage the wiring.

17. Remove the locking screw of the


tiller joint shaft.

18. Remove the tiller joint shaft.


19. Remove the bearings of the tiller
joint shaft.

0.

To assemble the tiller arm joint, repeat the steps in reversed order.

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5.14 Ergo lift

5.14.1 Disassembly of the ergo lifting carriage

Figure 35. Disassembly of the ergo lifting carriage overview

1. Ergo lifting carriage 5. Chain anchor


2. Cover plate 6. Chain yoke
3. Limiter screw 7. Cylinder
4. Chain

0.
1. Open the battery cover. For instructions, see section 5.4.3.

2. Remove the screws attaching the


cover plate of the ergo lifting
carriage to the truck.
3. Remove the cover plate.

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4. Remove the limiter screws.

5. Remove the locking pins from the


chain anchors.
6. Remove the nuts from the chain
anchors.
7. Remove the chain anchors from the
mounting holes.
8. Remove the chains from the chain
anchors.
9. Pull the chains through the chain
yoke.

10. Remove the screw attaching the


chain yoke to the cylinder.
11. Remove the chain yoke.

12. Attach a lifting device to the ergo


lifting carriage and lift it out.

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5.14.2 Inspecting the chains

Inspect and lubricate the chains after each 300 hours of operation (or more frequently in
severe or extreme environments). During the inspection, check the chains for the
following:

Elongation

Measure the chains from the section that moves over the chain wheel as that part of the
chain flexes the most.

When a chain with the original length of 330.2 mm has elongated to the length of
336.8 mm, replace the chain.

Figure 36. Checking the chain for elongation

Edge wear

Check the chains for link plate edge wear by running your finger back and forth over the
chain edge. See Figure 37 below.

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Figure 37. Checking the chains for edge wear

The wear of a link plate edge should not exceed 5%.

Turning or protruding pins

A highly loaded chain operated with inadequate lubrication can generate abnormal
friction between the pins and the link plates. In extreme cases, the torque can surpass
the press fit force between the pins and the outside plates, resulting in pin rotation.
When a chain is operated in such a condition, a pin or a series of pins can begin to twist
out of the chain, resulting in failure. See Figure 38 below.

Figure 38. Protruding and turning chain pins

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Check the chain pin heads to make sure that all the flats are still correctly aligned.
Replace chains with rotated or displaced heads or abnormal protrusion immediately. Do
not attempt to repair the chain by welding or driving the pin(s) back into the chain. Any
wear patterns on the pin heads or the sides of the link plates indicate misalignment.
Such wearing damages the chain and increases frictional loading and should always be
corrected.

Cracked side plates

Inspect all the chains periodically for any cracked plates, see Figure 39 below.

Figure 39. Cracked side plates

Check the chains very carefully from all sides. If there is a cracked plate in a chain, the
whole chain must be replaced. However, before you replace the chain, determine the
cause of the crack to prevent the condition from repeating itself.

Fatigue cracking

Fatigue cracks are a result of repeated cyclic loading exceeding the chain’s endurance
limit.

Fatigue cracks nearly always start at the link plate pin hole (the point of the highest
stress) and are perpendicular to the chain pitch line. In their early stages, fatigue cracks
are microscopic. Unlike with stretching, there is no noticeable yielding or stretching of
the material.

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Stress-corrosion cracking

Stress corrosion is an environmentally assisted failure, caused by two conditions:


corrosive agents and static stress. In the chain, the press fit pin causes static stress on
the pin hole. No cycle motion is required, and the plates can crack even during idle
periods. In addition, the reaction of several chemical agents (such as battery acid fluids)
with hardened steel can release hydrogen, which attacks and weakens the steel’s grain
structure.

The chain’s outside link plates, which are heavily press fitted to the pins, are particularly
susceptible to stress-corrosion cracking. Like other cracks, stress-corrosion cracks also
initiate at the highest stress point (pin hole), but tend to extend in an arch-like pattern
between the holes of the plate. A link plate often has more than one crack.

Figure 40. Link plate with stress-corrosion cracks

Never attempt to electroplate a leaf chain or its components. The plating process
releases hydrogen, causing hydrogen embrittlement cracks, which look similar to stress-
corrosion cracks.

If a plated chain is required, contact the manufacturer. Plated chains are assembled
from modified, individually plated components, which may reduce the chain’s rating.

Corrosion fatigue

Corrosion fatigue is caused the combined action of an aggressive environment and


cyclic stress (unlike in stress-corrosion cracking where static stress alone can be a
cause).

Appearance-wise, corrosion fatigue cracks are very similar (and in many cases
identical) to normal fatigue cracks. They normally start at the pin hole and move
perpendicularly to the chain pitch line.

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Ultimate strength failure

This type of failure is caused by overloads that far exceed the maximum load of the
pallet.

Figure 41. Ultimate strength failure

Tight joints

All the joints in a leaf chain should flex freely. Tight joints resist flexing and increase
internal friction, thus increasing the chain tension required to fit a given load. Increased
tension accelerates wearing and causes more fatigue problems.

Figure 42. Tight joints

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5.14.2.1 Checking the tension of the chains

The tension of the chains should be checked every week. The chain pair should have
equal tension to ensure proper load distribution.

To determine if chain pair has equal tension, hoist the unloaded lifting carriage to place
the chains under tension. Then press the center of the chains in the chain pair. Both the
chains should have equal give. If the chains do not give in equally, adjust the chains as
instructed in 5.14.2.2

5.14.2.2 Adjusting the chains

Adjust the tension of the chains by tightening or loosening the nuts of the chain anchors.

Figure 43. Adjusting the chains

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5.14.3 Main rollers

Figure 44. Main rollers overview

1. Main roller 3. Tightening crew


2. Locking screw 4. Clearance adjustment roller

0.

5.14.3.1 Adjusting the main rollers

1. Remove the locking screw of the


main roller.

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2. Turn the clearance adjustment roller


to adjust the depth of the main roller.
3. When the depth of the main roller is
correct, lock the adjustment by
installing and tightening the locking
screw.

5.14.3.2 Disassembly of the main rollers

1. Remove the ergo lifting carriage from the truck frame. For instructions, see
section 5.14.1.

2. Remove the locking screw of the


main roller.
3. Remove the tightening screws of the
main roller.
4. Remove the main roller.
5. Pull the clearance adjustment roller
out of the shaft recess.

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