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Journal of Dermatological Treatment.

2010; 21:201–205

ORIGINAL ARTICLE

A study of the efficacy of cleansers for acne vulgaris

YU SUNG CHOI1, HO SEOK SUH1, MI YOUNG YOON2, SEONG UK MIN2,3,


JIN SOOK KIM2, JAE YOON JUNG2,3, DONG HUN LEE3 & DAE HUN SUH2,3
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1
Department of Dermatology, Ulsan University Hospital, Ulsan, Korea, 2Acne Research Laboratory, Seoul National
University Hospital, Seoul, Korea and 3Department of Dermatology, Seoul National University College of Medicine,
Seoul, Korea

Abstract
Background: Acne treatments are sometimes expensive, and mild acne patients need some simpler form of treatment and, thus,
the need for easier and cheaper ways of managing acne is increasing. Methods: An 8-week, double-blind, randomized clinical
trial was conducted to determine whether cleansers are effective at producing clinical improvements in patients with acne
vulgaris. A total of 13 acne patients applied cleanser A to one half of the face and cleanser B (cleanser A plus triclosan, salicylic
For personal use only.

acid, and azelaic acid) to the other half, twice daily. Results: The numbers of inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions
decreased on both sides. A rebound tendency was noted for cleanser A with respect to inflammatory lesions at 4 weeks post-
discontinuation, whereas inflammatory lesions continued to decrease on sides treated with cleanser B during this period.
However, non-inflammatory lesion counts were not significantly different in the two groups. Though patients were generally
satisfied with both treatments, they were more satisfied with cleanser B. Moreover, histopathologic examinations showed a
profound decrease in inflammatory reactions in the cleanser B group. Conclusion: These results show that acne cleansers
reduced both inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne lesion counts, and might be helpful for acne treatment.

Key words: acne, acne treatment, cleanser

Introduction studies have described beneficial effects for special


facial cleansers (3–5). These products usually include
Acne is a common dermatologic condition that can alpha hydroxy acid, salicylic acid, and benzoyl per-
cause severe inflammation and scarring, which arises oxide, which are the components of topical acne
as a sequela of inflammation and is usually difficult treatments, and, thus, conceptually they should be
to treat. The pathogenesis of acne includes four at least partially beneficial (6,7). Although it is
primary processes: hyperkeratinization of pilosebac- believed that good skin care involving daily cleansing
eous follicles, increased sebum production, increased also helps acne improvement, the effectiveness of
Propionibacterium acnes colonization, and inflamma- specialized acne cleansers remains inconclusive (8).
tion (1,2). No single topical agent has yet been devel- Moreover, histopathologic evaluations following the
oped that addresses all of these factors, hence use of special daily cleansers have been limited so far.
combination regimes have become the mainstay of Therefore, in the present study, we evaluated the
treatment. However, these are usually costly and efficacy and safety of an acne cleanser incorporating
might have adverse side effects. Recently, interest 0.04% triclosan, 1% salicylic acid, and 1% azelaic
in acne treatments involving the modification of daily acid, and associated histopathologic changes in mild
activities, such as facial washing, has increased and acne vulgaris patients.

Correspondence: Dae Hun Suh, Department of Dermatology, Seoul National University Hospital, 28 Yongon-dong, Chongno-gu, Seoul, Korea.
Fax: 82 2 742 7344. E-mail: daehun@snu.ac.kr

(Received 26 May 2009; accepted 27 September 2009)


ISSN 0954-6634 print/ISSN 1471-1753 online  2010 Informa UK Ltd.
DOI: 10.3109/09546630903401454
202 Y. S. Choi et al.

Materials and methods acne lesion counts (inflammatory and non-inflamma-


tory); (ii) overall rating of acne severity using the
This 8-week study was a split-face, double-blind, Cunliffe’s grading system (2); (iii) rating of patient
randomized controlled study, and was approved by satisfaction, ranging from 0 (not satisfied) to 10 (very
the institutional review board of Seoul National Uni- satisfied) at weeks 2, 4 and 8; and (iv) assessment of skin
versity Hospital. All subjects provided written irritations (i.e. dryness, erythema, edema, scaling, and
informed consent. Thirteen patients, aged 20–37 years tightness). At the initial and final visits, a skin biopsy was
with mild facial acne grades of 0.25 to 2 according to performed on a representative acne lesion on each cheek.
Cunliffe’s grading system (2), but who were otherwise Routine H&E and immunohistochemical staining for
healthy, were recruited. The distribution of acne was TGF-b were done. TGF-b was regarded as an anti-
relatively symmetric. The use of other facial treatment inflammatory cytokine, and has recently been suggested
was not permitted during the study, and all acne to participate in the resolution of inflammatory acne (9).
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medications were stopped 6 weeks prior to the study. For H&Estaining,the severityofinflammationwas rated
At initial visits, the sides of patients’ faces were from 0 (no inflammation) to 4 (severe inflammation);
randomly assigned to cleanser A or B, and patients and in terms of TGF-b, staining intensity was rated from
were provided with appropriately labeled cleansers. 0 (not stained) to 4 (intensively stained).
The main components of cleanser A were papain, Statistical analysis was performed using the SPSS
proteomax and soap powder, and of cleanser B were statistical package. Clinical and histopathologic data
0.04% triclosan, 1% salicylic acid, and 1% azelaic acid obtained from both sides of the face at each visit were
in addition to the other constituents of cleanser A. Both analyzed using the Wilcoxon signed rank test. Signif-
cleansers were made by NanoPharm Corporation icance levels were set at p-values less than 0.05.
(Seoul, Korea). Patients were asked to use each cleanser
for 4 weeks twice daily (morning and evening) and notto
use these cleaners during the following 4 weeks. Results
For personal use only.

Patients were evaluated over the course of the 8-week


study period (atotal of four visits:a pretreatmentbaseline All 13 patients completed the study (six males and
visit, follow-up visits after 2 and 4 weeks, and a final visit seven females; between the ages of 20 and 37 years:
at 8 weeks). Facial photographs were taken at each visit. average 26 years). Representative photographs are
The following clinical evaluations were performed: (i) shown in Figure 1.

Cleanser A, before use Cleanser A, at the 4th week Cleanser A, at the 8th week

Cleanser B, before use Cleanser B, at the 4th week Cleanser B, at the 8th week

Figure 1. Clinical photographs of a 29-year-old male case. Clinical improvements were observed for cleansers A & B. After discontinuing
cleanser use, inflammatory lesions increased in the cleanser A side.
Efficacy of cleansers for acne vulgaris 203

A. B.
Cleanser A Cleanser A

Non-inflammatory acne lesion counts


Inflammatory acne lesion counts

100 Cleanser B 100 Cleanser B


† †

80 80

(% of baseline)

(% of baseline)
*

60 † 60 †

† †

40 40

20 † 20
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0 0
0 wk 2 wk 4 wk 8 wk 0 wk 2 wk 4 wk 8 wk

Figure 2. (A) Inflammatory and (B) non-inflammatory acne lesion counts in the two groups versus time. Error bars represent mean ± standard
error of the mean. †p < 0.05, compared to baseline; *p < 0.05, between cleanser A and B.

The lesion counts of inflammatory acne decreased proportion to duration of cleanser use, and
following the use of both cleansers (Figure 2A). For cleanser B had a significantly higher satisfaction score
cleanser A, at 4 weeks after commencement, they had at week 8 than cleanser A.
reduced significantly to 42% of baseline. However, Histopathologic evaluation revealed that at baseline
after discontinuation (week 8), these counts the intensity of inflammation was 2.0 in both groups,
rebounded to 53% of baseline. For cleanser B, the but at week 8 it was 1.9 and 1.4 for cleanser A and B,
For personal use only.

number of inflammatory lesions also decreased after respectively, which was a significant improvement in
commencement to 46% of baseline at 4 weeks. Unlike the latter group. Immunohistochemical staining for
cleanser A, these counts continued to decrease after TGF-b showed an intensity of 2.4 at baseline in both
discontinuation, and at 8 weeks were 13% of baseline, groups, and of 3 at week 8 in the cleanser A group and
showing a significant difference between cleansers A 3.4 in the cleanser B group, albeit not significant in
and B at week 8. either group.
Figure 2B shows the percentage changes in the No significant adverse events, such as xerosis,
number of non-inflammatory lesions over time. For scales, or pruritus, were recorded after using either
cleanser A, the number of non-inflammatory lesions cleanser. One patient reported transient erythema for
decreased after commencement, and at 4 weeks cleanser A, but this disappeared after a few hours.
had significantly reduced to 44% of baseline. After Three patients reported a decrease in sebum produc-
discontinuation, these counts rebounded to 62% tion but this was not objectively measured.
of baseline. For cleanser B, the number of non-
inflammatory lesions also decreased after commence-
ment and at 4 weeks the number was significantly Discussion
reduced to 50% of baseline. After discontinuation,
cleanser B showed slightly less rebound than The relationship between facial washing and acne
cleanser A, but this was not significant. has not been clearly established. Acne patients usu-
Initial acne grades in cleanser groups A and B were ally believe that a lack of skin care and facial dirt
1.6 and 1.5, respectively, and after 2, 4 and 8 weeks aggravate acne, while in the past, dermatologists
they were 1.3, 1.2 and 1.4, respectively, in both used to believe that excessive facial washing exacer-
groups. Although these differences were not signifi- bates acne and weakens the skin barrier function (4).
cant, the use of both cleansers tended to reduce However, in recent reports, skin barrier functions
acne grades. were not found to be disrupted after facial washing,
At every visit, patients were asked whether they which contradicts previously held opinions. Moreover,
were satisfied with the treatment results. For excessive facial washing proved not to be a cause of
cleanser A, patient satisfaction increased from 0 acne (8).
(baseline) to 1.4 (week 2), 2.4 (week 4), and 2.9 Some cleansers contain low concentrations of top-
(week 8); for cleanser B the corresponding figures ical agents that are used to treat acne, or natural
were 1.4, 2.5, and 4.0 (Figure 3). The degree of products that supposedly ameliorate acne. In the
patient satisfaction was found to increase in present study, cleanser B contained triclosan, salicylic
204 Y. S. Choi et al.

10 commercial products contain mixtures of triclosan,


9 Cleanser A benzoyl peroxide, alpha hydroxyl acid, salicylic acid,
Patients satisfaction scores

8 Cleanser B and/or others (15,17–19).


No significant difference in acne severity grade was
7
observed between the two groups during the whole
6 * study period, which might be related to the low initial
5 † acne grades of the cohort. Moreover, it is also possible
4 that the two cleansers caused clinical improvements to

3 † † a smaller degree as compared with other topical acne
medications.
2 † †
Histopathologic examinations showed decreases in
1 inflammation based on H&E findings in both cleanser
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0 groups, though this was more profound in the


0 wk 2 wk 4 wk 8 wk cleanser B group. We attribute this finding to the
presence of salicylic acid and azelaic acid in
Figure 3. Comparison of subjective assessments. Error bars rep-
resent mean ± standard error of the mean. †p < 0.05, compared to cleanser B. Although no significant differences were
baseline. *p < 0.05, between cleanser A and B. found between H&E findings, the decrease of inflam-
matory lesions induced by cleanser A supports the
notion that daily facial washing can reduce acne. The
acid, and azelaic acid. Triclosan, otherwise known as role of TGF-b in acne lesions is unclear, but it has
5-chloro-2-(2, 4-dichlorophenoxy) phenol, is a bac- been regarded to be related to the resolution of
tericidal agent with activity against various gram pos- inflammation, the regulation of cellular and humoral
itive and gram negative organisms (10). Salicylic acid immunity, and the inhibition of keratinocyte prolif-
has keratolytic, comedolytic, and anti-inflammatory eration (9). In the present study, the stain intensity of
For personal use only.

effects, and, thus, is effective at treating both inflam- TGF-b became stronger after the use of cleansers and
matory and non-inflammatory acne lesions (6,11–14). it was more intense in the cleanser B group, although
Finally, azelaic acid has bactericidal, a weak come- there was no statistical difference between the two
dolytic, and anti-inflammatory effects (15). study groups. Thus, we cautiously consider a possi-
Because lesion counts decreased in both groups, bility that improvements achieved by the use of a
we consider that this might be due to common cleanser might be related to TGF-b induction.
components such as papain and proteomax, which From our study, cleansers containing components
might inhibit microcomedone formation, and, thus, that are active against acne are believed to be effective,
non-inflammatory lesions. However, in the case of especially against inflammatory acne lesions.
inflammatory lesions, cleanser B, but not cleanser A, Although the present study was based on a relatively
caused lesion counts to decrease during and after use. small sample size, we believe that our statistical find-
We consider that this sustained effect of cleanser B ings are valid and there was no drop-out during the
is probably associated with the effects of salicylic and study. The clinical improvements induced by acne
azelaic acids because both have a comedolytic effect cleansers appeared within 2 weeks, and these were
which inhibits the formation of a comedone in its sustained after discontinuing cleanser B, which con-
early stage. tained triclosan, salicylic acid, and azelaic acid.
The reasons why inflammatory and non- Therefore, if it is combined with conventional ther-
inflammatory acne lesion counts reduced in the apies, improvement can be achieved more effectively
cleanser A group are not obvious, but we propose and more easily. Observed clinical improvements are
the following. Both cleansers contained enzymatic supported by our histopathologic findings. Further
components (i.e. papain and proteomax), which studies would be necessary for the elucidation of more
might have participated in the degradation of desmo- precise mechanisms.
somes, and thereby promoted desquamation and ulti-
mately reduced comedone formation (16). These
Acknowledgements
components were not thought to be related to the
sustained effect, accounting for a rebound tendency This study was supported by Seoul National Univer-
in acne lesion counts in cleanser A. The observation sity Hospital Grant (06-2007-142-0).
of sustained improvement in the cleanser B group
is probably related to the presence of triclosan, sal- Declaration of interest: The authors report no
icylic acid and azelaic acid. It is not known which conflicts of interest. The authors alone are responsible
of these is predominantly responsible, and generally for the content and writing of the article.
Efficacy of cleansers for acne vulgaris 205

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