TEXTILE CALCULATIONS .

S I "ES OF Y A R NS — NUMBER I NG .

Th e si zes o f yarns are designated by the terms out m m hank , , ,

co unt sk e in dra m 9 m in
, , ,
al l of w h ich are based upo n two
,

elementa r y pri nciples weight and length Each term re pre

,
.

sents a certai n length o f yarn for a fixed weight o r vice versa "
‘

, ,

but unfortu nately th ere are di fferen t standards o f weights and

m easures which resul t s i n a great deal Of conf usion
,
Th e largest .

v ariety o f terms i s found i n the woolen i ndustry I n the United .

States we have woolen cut run gr ai n etc when all may be

, , ,
.
,

reduced to a commo n basis The r e i s no doubt that the adoption

.

o f a n i n ter national standard wou l d benefit th e textile i ndustry ,

but w hich standard to adopt is a question o n which ma nufacturers

dis agree .

A simple method would be metres as the u nit o f len g th ,

to be called count o r nu m ber and the number of units which w e igh

,

on e kilogram to represen t the coun ts o r n um ber O f yarn By this .

method the counts o f the yarn would always show at a gla nce the
number o f metres per gra m as ,

N 1 o m e tr e s 2 1 kg
NO 2
. .

m e tre s 2 1 k g
NO 2
. .

% m e tre s 1 k g
. .

WOOL EN C OUNTS .

Th e simplest method i n use at pres e n t i s the o ne used i n the

New England States i n which No 1 woole n yarn represents 1 00
, .

yards to the ounce o r ,

yards to the pound as a standard ,
.

Th e n umber Of the yarn is the number o f yards con t ai ned i n o ne

ounce divided by 1 00 Th e yar n is spoke n o f as so ma ny hund red
,
.

ya rds to t h e ounce Th us.

,

NO 4 400 y a rd s t 1 o unce
. o .

N 4% o450 y a rd s t 1 un ce
. z o o .

NO 5 5 00 y a rd s t 1 unc
. o o e .

N 5% o y a rd s t 1 unce
. o o .

A c ompariso n o f Troy and A voi rdupois we ights may be m ade

by the following table s Th e A voirdupoi s table should be com
.
4 T EX T IL E CA L CUL A T I ONS

i nit t e d to m e m o ry , as i t is used " r e y extens ive l y in Texti l e

Calcu l ations .

A "O I R D U PO I S W E I G H T .

gra ins ( g ) 1 unc r. o e

16 dra m s ( dr ) 1 un c . o e.

gr a ins 2 1 p u nd ( 1b ) o .

16 un ces 2 1 p un d
o o .

1 00 p un d s 1 h un dr e d w ight
o e (cw t )
2
.

0 h un dre d w e ight 1 t n (t ) o

N OTE —2
.

5 p un d s a s m e t im s c ll d a q ua rt r
o re o e a e e .

T R OY W E I G H T .

24 gr a i ns (g r ) 1 p e n ny w e ight ( p w t )
2
. .

0 p enn y w e ight s 1 o un c e
grai ns 1 p o un d ( 1b )
12
.

o un c e s 1 p o un d .

I t is necessary to fami l iari z e One s se l f with the s tanda r d num ’

bers Of the various yarn s ; a l so as i n the case of woolen yarn s , ,

where di fferen t standa r d n umbers are used fo r the va r ious ter m s

i t i s well to be fami l iar wi th the standard n umbe r of each term
as by this mean s a great dea l of confusion wi l l be avoided .

T A BLE OF R EL AT I "E C OUNTS OF Y A RN .

'

Ya rn . S iz e . S t a nda rd Num b e r .

W l n
oo e NO . 1 run y a rd s p e l b r .

No 1 c ut 3 00
2
.

No . 1 s k ei n 56
W r s te d
o No . 1 c un t o 560
Co o tt n NO . 1 c un t o 8 40
L in e n NO . 1 lea 3 00 H t ‘ H

Sp u n s il k No . 1 co u nt 8 40

Such fibres as linen j ute hemp and ramie fibre are usually
, ,

fig ured by the lea Of 3 0 0 yards to the pound I n the g r ain system

the weight i n grains of 2 Thus if 2
.

0 yards designates the coun ts 0

yards we i gh 20 2 5 o r 3 0 grai ns the coun ts would be N O 2
.
,

0 NO
2
. .
, , ,

5 o r N0 3 0 grai n yarn respectively

. .

SI LK C OUNTS .

Sp un Si lk
i s based upon the same system as cotton ,

han k of 8 4 0 yards and the n um ber Of such han ks which weigh

o ne pound den otes the coun ts .

N G TE —Sil k th a t h as b ee n re - m a nu fa c t u re d o r re -S p un is ca ll e d s p un
 T E X TI LE CAL C UL A T I ONS 5

D ra m S i l k system adopted i n the United States for

. Th e
specifying the si z e of silk i s based on the weight i n dram s of
a skein contain ing yards Thus a skei n which weighs 5 .

dram s is techn ical l y ca l led 5 dram si l k Th e num ber of ya r ds

- .

of l dram silk i n a pound must according l y be 1 6 X 1 6 X 1 0 00

-
,

or
N G TE i m u lt i p l ie d by ( 1 6 x 1 6 ) b e c aus th e r
s 1 6 dr a m s i n e e a re
one unce an d 1 6 unces i n ne p un d
o o o o .

Tra m S i l k
is b ased o n a syste m i n which yards per
ounce i s used as a sta ndard .

W OR ST ED C OUNTS .

This
system is based upon the hank o f 5 60 yards the coun ts ,

bei ng determined by the n umber of such hanks contained i n o ne

pound o f yarn
NO 1
.

560 y a rd s in 1 p un d o

NO 2
. .

y a rd s in 1 p un d
. o .

No 3 y a rd s in 1 p un d
. o .

C OTTON COUNTS .

is based upon the han k o f 8 4 0 ya r ds and the number

Cotton ,

o f such b ank s which weigh o ne pound denotes the c oun ts Th e .

followi ng tables are used when cal cu l ati ng cotton yarn s :

1% y a rd s : th e circu m ference f ree l o or 1 w ra p
12
.
,

0 y a rd s : 1 l ea 80 w r a p s Of th e ree l
or .

840 y a rd s : 7 l eas r 1 h an k o .

N O 1 co tto n 840 y a rd s in 1 p un d o

NO 2
. .

c tt n
. o oy ard s in 1 p un d o .

N 3 c tto n 2
o . o y a rd s in 1 p un d o .

Li ne n a nd S im il a r F ib re s
such as j u te h e mp ra m ie fi bre '

, , ,

and Ch ina gra ss a r e n umbered by using as a base the lea of 3 00

yards ; the n umber of such leas which weigh one pound bei ng
the coun ts .

N 1 3 00 y a rd s i n 1 p un d
o o

N O 2 600 y a rd s in 1 p un d
. .

. o .

No 3 900 y a rd s in 1 p un d
. o .

Eng l is h Wo o le n or S k e in S y s t e m — This system is based

pon the skei n Of 2
.

u 5 6 yards the n um ber o f such skein s w h ich

,

weigh o ne pou nd being the coun ts I n England the yarn i s spoke n .

o f as s o many ards t o th e d r a i n o r s o many skeins which i s t h e

y , ,
6 TE X T ILE CAL C ULA T I ONS

same thing when referring to i ts si ze Thus 6 ske ins or . 6 yards

to the dram ; 1 0 skei n s or 1 0 yards to the dram .

No 1 25 6 y a rd s t th e p un d o o

2 5 1 2y a rd s t th e p un d
. .

No . o o .

No 3 . 768 y a rd s t th e p o un d
o .

Th e
s t andard weight i s one dram a nd the number o f yards to ,

that weigh t i s regulated according to requireme nts .

Th e Ph il a d e l p h ia o r Cut Sy s t e m is based upo n the cut of

3 00 ya r ds the n umber o f such ha nks which weigh o ne pou nd
,

de noting the cou nts .

N 1 3 0 0 y a rd s t t h e p o u nd
o o

N 2 600 y a rd s t th e p o un d
. .

'
o . o .

N 3 900 y a rd s t th e p o un d
o . o .

R ule 1 To find the yards per pound o f any given cou nts o f
.

woolen run woolen cut worsted cotton li ne n and spu n silk

, , , , ,
.

Multiply the standard n u m ber by the given co unts .

Example Ho w many yards per pound in No 1 5 cotton 3

2
. .
,

run woole n No 0 worst e d 4 No 1 5 cotton 8 4 0 x 1 5

’

yards N o 2
. .
, ,

yards 3 run woolen 1 600 X 3 0 worsted

5 60 x 2
. . .
, , ,

0 yards .

R ul e 2 To find the weight o f any number o f yards o f a

.

g iven counts the n umber o f yards being gi ven D ivide the g ive n
,
.

num ber of yards by the coun ts X the standard number

yards o f No 3 2
.

Example What i s the weight o f

. .

cotton
X 8 4 0) 4 pounds z . .

Find the weight of yards o f 3 0 s wors ted ’

yards of 2
,

0 lea linen and yards o f 4 %run woole n

, .

R ule 3 I t i s often necessa ry to k no w the weigh t in ounces

.

of a small n umber of yards M ultiply the gi ve n n umber o f yards .

by 1 6 and d ivide by the co unts X the s tandard n umber

,

Example What is th e weight in ounces o f yards o f

No 2
.

. 0 worsted

16) ( 2
OX 5 6 O) 4 o zs .

Th e
woolen run system is the most si mple o f all textile yar n
-

calc ulation s as 1 00 yards per o unce

, No 1 run . .
 T E X TI L E CAL C UL A T I ONS 7

R ul e 4 To find the weight i n ounces o f a given n umber of

.

woolen run yarn Add t w o ciphers to the coun ts and divide in to

- .

the gi ven number of yards

yards of 2
.

Example What is the w eight o f

. -run

woo l en
2
00 2: o zs .

R ul e 5 G rai n System To find the cou nts of a woo l e n

. .

b r e ad the n umber o f yards and weight being known

( Th e

w e ight in grain s which 2

, .

0 yards weigh designates the counts )

Multi ply the given weight by grain s i n 1 lb and by 2
.

0 y ards and .
,

divide by the given n u m ber o f yards of yarn .

Example What is the counts o f

. yards which weigh
4 pounds

4 X 7 0 00 2
0
2
0 grai n s per 2
0 ya r ds
2
,

0 ’
s coun ts . An s .

EX A M PL ES
R A CT I C E F OR P .

1 H o w man y yards o f yarn in 1 lb of each of the fol lowing

n u m bers :N O 2 3 cotton No 5 run woo l en No 3 2
. .

worsted No
2 2lea linen No 2
. . . .
, , ,

5 spun silk ?
2 Obtai n the counts o f the fol l owi ng ya r ns :
.
,

. yards
cotton 2 1 1b ; ya r ds wors ted
. 1 1b ; yards .

l inen 1 1b ; yards spun silk 2 1 lb

. .

.3 Ho w m any yards per pound i n 4 dram silk 5 d r a m si l k , ,

and 3 dram si l k ?
.4 Wool e n grai n system Ho w m any yards pe r pound i n 7 .

g r a in wool en and 5 grai n woolen

,

.5 If ya r ds o f yarn weigh 1 pound what counts ,

would represen t this length and weight i n worsted co t ton and , ,

woolen
.6 Th e weight o f yards o f worsted is 3 ounces What .

is the coun ts ?
.7 Find the respective weights o f 8 00 yards ya rds ,

and yards o f ( a ) 4 run woolen ( b) No 3 0 w orsted (e ) No

-
,
.
,
.

3 0 cotton .

8 What is the weight of yards o f 3 0 s cotton ; ’

ya r ds o f 3 2 yards of 2
.

s worsted ;
% woo l en ?
’
 T E X TI L E CAL C UL A TI ONS

9
What i s t he weight of
. yards o f 4 run woolen 3 1

yarn ,
yards of 4 %r un yards of run ,

10 Find the cotton coun ts of these ya r n s :

. yards
weigh pounds ; yard s weigh 4 %po unds ; yards
weigh 4 pounds .

N OT E —Th e te rm s num b e r num b e r s e tc a re us e d , ,

.
,

w h en Sp a k in g f t h e s i e f y a rn T h ey a re w ritten i n v a ri us w y s
e o z o . o a ,

for i ns t nce N a 1 c un t s 1 s N
,
o . 1 s an d N
o ,
1 A ll re p res e n t th e
’
,
o .
’
,
o . .

s am e th in g .

M ETR I C M EA S U R EM ENTS A ND W EI G HTS .

L i ne a M e as u e r r .

1 m ill im e t e r ( m m ) .

1 0 m ill im e t r s 1 c e n t im e t e r (cm )
e .

1 0 c n t im e te r s 2 1 d e cim e t e r
e ( dm ) .

1 0 d ec im e te r s 1 m e te r m
( ) .

10 m e t e r s 1 d e ca m e te r ( d e c m ) a .

1 0 d eca m e t e r s 1 h e c t m e te r ( h m ) o .

1 0 h ec t m e t e r s 1 k il m e te r
o (k m ) o .

M e as ure s o f W e ig h t .

1 m ill ig r a m (m g ) .

1 0 m ill igr a m s 1 cen t igr a m ( cg ) .

1 0 ce n t igr a m s 1 d ecigr a m (dg ) .

1 0 d e c i gr am s 1 gr a m (g ) .

1 0 gr am s 1 d ec gr a m ( d e c g ) a a .

1 0 d e ca gr a m s 1 h c t gr a m (h g ) e o .

1 0 h e c g am s 1 k il gr a m
o r k
( g ) o .

Th e Continen tal method for worsted is based upon

metres pe r ki l ogram e g No 1 coun ts con tains m etre
No 2 X 2
. . . .
, ,

. coun ts con tain s metres No 3 coun ts contai n s . .

1 00 0 X3 metres etc
, ,
.

T A B L E OF E "U I " A L E NTS .

1 dm i nc h es .

1 dm i nc h es .

1 o z. gr am s .

1 o z.gra ins .

1 gr a m grains .

1 kg . p un d s gra in s o o r .

1 m . y a rd s .

1 m . i nc h es .

m 1 kg
. r p un d s w rs t d y a r n . o o o e .

m y a rd s
. .

I n the metric system woolen counts are based on the same ,

pri nciple as worsted coun ts that is metres of No 1 woo l e n

, ,
.
 T E X TI L E CAL CULA TI O NS 9

weigh 1 kg or . grams This a l so app l ies to cotton l i nen

.
, ,

silk jute etc

, ,
.

I t wi l l be seen from thi s that the m et r i c system possesses a

great advantage over the many varied system s no w i n use i nas ,

much that i t i s simpler i n calculations deci m al s doing away with ,

the more complicated f r action s of the Engl ish system ( such as g ,

and the un ifo r m i ty of di ff erence between ki l o

g r a m s hectograms decag r a m s etc is simpl er than the co m pl ex
, , ,
.
,

system of tons hundred weights pounds ounces drams and

,
-
, , , ,

grain s .

To reduce kilogram s to gram s i t i s o nl y necessary to mu l tiply,

the given n um ber by whi l e to reduce from pounds to drams

i n English the given number m ust be multiplied by 1 6 X With
metric numbers the di ffe r ence m ay be easily computed Taking .

kg of ya r n and wishing to find the weigh t in gram s the

.
,

following simple process i s all that i s required :

X g rams .

This weight represen ts approx imately 4 pounds 8 ounces and ,

wishi ng t o fi nd the weigh t i n drams the fo ll owing compl icated

equation i s necessa r y :
4 %X 1 6 X 1 6 drams .

A nother advan tage of the metric syste m i s that while a No .

1 i n the English system equals ya r ds wool en 5 6 0 ya r ds ,

worsted 8 4 0 yards cotton 3 00 ya r ds linen etc to the pound in

, , ,
.
, ,

the metric system a No 1 coun t has . m etres to the kilog r am

i n every variety of yarn which gives a simp l e basis of co m parison
,

between the yar ns .

T HR OWN S I L K .

Th e Continen tal Europe system o f n um bering t hrown silk i s

based upon the han k of 4 00 French ells Th e skein o r hank i s
4 7 6 metres o r 5 2
.

,
0 yards and the weight o f t h is hank in den iers
,

den otes the coun ts .

deniers equal 1 ounce .

I f 1 hank o f the above length weighs 1 0 den ie r s the counts ,

equal No 1 0 denier
. .

A pproximately No 1 denier . 2 yards

e r ou nce
p ,
10 TEX T I LE CA L C ULA T I ONS

N o 40 d en ie r ( 5 33 % x 52 40
0) - y rd s p e
a ro un ce
2
. .

N o 60
. d en ie r ( 5 33 %X 5 0 —
) 60 y a rd s p er o un ce .

CH A NG I NG TI I E COUNTS OF
Y A R NS '
.

Th e three great fibres woo l worsted and cotton are mi xed

, , , ,

to a large exten t There are goods composed of woolen filling and

.

cotton wa rp worsted filling and cotton wa r p woole n and worsted

, ,

fi l li ng com bined with cotton warp and also woolen and worsted ,

w arps combined with cotton and woolen filli ngs ; so i t i s i mportan t

t h at the calc ulation s pertain ing to each should be tho r oughly under

stood Th e calculation s in this work are directed towards these

.

requiremen ts There are sho r ter method s o f calculatio n which

.

may be used by those f ully co nversan t with the vari ous particulars
con cern ing texti l e manufactures but i t m atters little which system
,

is used if i t is simple and reliable .

Ch a ng ing t h e Co unt s of o ne Sy s t e m o f Y a rn i nt o t h e Eq ui v =

a l e nt Co unt s of A no t h e r Sy s t e m o f Y a rn .

R ul e 6 . To
change cotto n counts in to woo l en r un s Mu l ti .

ply 8 4 0 by the known c o tton coun ts and divide by the

standard yards per pound of No 1 run woolen . .

Example What is the si z e of a woolen th r e ad equi va l en t to

a 2
.

0 s cotton
’

( 2O X 8 4 O) 1 0 % run woo l en .

R ule 7 To change cotton coun ts i n to w o r sted coun ts Mul

. .

t ip l y 8 4 0 by the known cotton coun ts and divide by 5 6 0 the stan d , ,

ard ya r ds per pound o f No 1 worsted coun ts . .

Example What i s the equivalen t i n a worsted thread to a

.

3 0 s cotton
’

3 0 84 0 —5 6 0 2 4 5 s wo r sted
)
’
( X .

R ul e 8 To change wool en run s into worsted coun ts Mul

. .

ti l by the kn own woolen run s and divide by 5 6 0 the

p y
s tandard yards per pound of No :
, ,

1 wo r sted co un ts .

Example What is the equivalen t i n a worsted thread to a

.

7 run woolen ?

( 7 X + 5 6 0 2 0 s wo r s ted
’
.

R ul e 9 To change woolen run s worsted coun ts and cotton

.
, ,

coun ts i nto their equivalen ts i n li nen or Philadelphia cu t s .

Multiply by the woolen worsted or cotton standard and divide

, , ,
 T E X T I LE CAL CULA T I ONS 11

by 300 the standard n umber of yards which equal s 1 lea linen

,

and 1 cut woo l en .

Example What are th e equiva l en ts i n linen coun ts to a

3 run woolen 2 0 s worsted and 2
.

,
4 s cotton
’
,
’

1 6 lea linen .

R ul e 1 0 To cha nge woolen worsted line n o r cotto n cou nts

.
, , ,

to thei r equivalents i n the grain system Multiply grains

by 2
.

0 ( the yards representi ng the grai n standard ) a nd divide by

the standard o f the other yarn .

Example What is the equivalen t i n the grai n system to a

2
.

0 s cotton
’

X 0 22
20 x 8 ,”
counts .

What is the equi valen t i n the grai n syste m o f the foll owing
yarn s 2 ,
4 s worsted 4 run woolen 1 6 lea linen ?
’
, ,

R ul e I I To cha nge woolen worsted linen or cotton cou nts

.
, , ,

to their equivalents i n the dram sys tem Multiply the given .

weight by dram s per pound and by the yards i n o ne dram then ,

di v ide by the given length o f yarn .

Example What is the eq uivalen t i n the dram system to a

.

N o 3 0 cotton ?
2
.

1x 56 X
3 0 X 84 0
Find the equi valent in the dram system to 2 4 s cotton 4 % ’
,

run woolen 3 0 s worsted

,
’
.

R ule 1 2 To change woo l en worsted linen and cotto n coun ts

.
, , ,

to their e q ul v al e nt s i n the den ier system Multiply the yard s i n .

o ne hank den ie r s i n one ou nce and ounces i n 1

pound ( 1 6) together and divide the pr o duct by the length o f 1
pound o f yarn o f the known coun ts .

Example What is the equivalen t in the denier system t o a

.

3 0 s worsted
’

2
5 0 x 5 3 3%x 16
so x 5 60

Rul e I 3 To cha nge metric co unts

. to Engli sh co unts Th e
.

number o f metres in o ne k ilogra m multipl ied by the

1 2 TEX T I L E CAL C UL A T I ONS

n umber of inches i n one metre wil l give the total num

be r of i nches This divided by the i n ches in one yard ( 3 6 ) wi l l
.

give the total number of yards and agai n divided by the weight ,

of 1 sta ndard number will give the English coun ts

or con stant .

Solution :

3 6 x 5 60 x 2
2 05 .
. 8 85 w rs te d co un t
o .

1 , 000 X 3 9 37
3 6 x 8 40 x 22
05
.

.
. 5 90 c tt n an d s p un s il k c ns tan t
o o o .

. 3099 , say . 31 , w o l en c n s t an t
o o .

1 , 000 x 3 9 3 7
22 l inen an d w o l en cu t c ns tan t
.

o o .

3 6 x 3 00 x 05 .

Th e E ng i l sh 88 5 i s eq ua l to aN o . 1 m e tric w o rs te d .

6‘
c tt n s p un s il k
‘6
5 90 “
No 1 . o o or .

u u
3 10 u u ‘6 H
No 1 w l en
:
. . oo .

u u ( s u u H
No 1 " l inen e tc ,
.

Proof
1 me tre y a rd s 1 k il o gram . p un d s o .

m e tres N o 1 1 k i l o gr am
. p o un d s .

m e tres y a rd s .

y a rd s p e r p o un d .

5 60 8 8 5 w r s t e d c ns t an t o o .

4 96 1 + 840 5 90 c tt n o o

3 10 w len oo

3 00 l i nen
R ul e [ 4 Th e English coun t divided by the con stan t wil l
.

give the metric co un t

English 2
.

Exa m ple 0 s cotto n

’
. metric cotton
coun ts
Find the metric cou nts o f 2
.

4 s worsted 6 run woole n and 1 8

’
, ,

l e a linen .

R ul e 1 5 Th e metric cou nt m ultiplied by t h e con stan t will

.

give the Engli sh coun t .

20 m e tric w o o l e n
'

run woolen .

Fi nd the co unts in English o f the following metric cou nts :

cotton ,
worsted and 1 6 woolen ,
.

TW IS TED COI I POUND

‘
, Y A R NS
PLY, A ND .

Yarn s spun from differen t fibers are frequen tl y twisted

togethe r f o r decorative pur poses and also for s trength e g silk , ,
. .
,
 TEXT I L E C A L C ULATI ONS 13

to cotton worsted to woolen etc A s yar ns may be spu n in o ne

, ,
.

p l ace and consigned fo r us e i n local ities where diffe r en t sys

te m s of n u m be r ing ya r n s are i n use i t i s necess a ry to change ,

any given numbe r into the equivalen t coun t of some other

de no m ination .

Wo rs te d a nd c o tto n y a rns are usually numbe r ed according to

the coun t of the single yarn with the n umber of pl y th r eads or
fo l ds placed at the left o r before it Th us 2
, , ,

, ,
—4 0 s cotton .
’

yarn indicates that the yarn i s co m posed of t w o th r eads of 4 0 s ’

single making a two fo l d o r two pl y yarn of 2

- 0 han ks to the -

pound and m ust be con sidered as represen ting 2

,

,
0 times 8 4 0
yards ; but when written 4 0 s or 1 —4 0 s i t r epresen ts 4 0 hanks o r
’ ’

4 0 times 8 4 0 yards to the pound .

Sp un s i l k y a rn s are gene r a ll y two or more ply and the num ,

ber o f the yarn always i ndicates the number o f b ank s in o ne ‘

pound Th e n umber of p l y is usually wri tte n after the han ks per

pound Thus 6 0—2 or 6 0 s 2
.

. spu n si l k indicates that the yarn is

’
-

60 b ank s to the pound composed of t w o threads of other

cou nts .

Tw o p l y w o o l e n y arn s are usuall y designated

- “
D ouble and
Twist yarn s thus 6 run black and white
”
, ,
“
D T would mea n
”

that o ne black thread o f 6 run and o ne w h ite thread o f 6 run have

been doub l ed an d twisted and represen t a thread which is e quiva
,

len t to a 3 run mi nus the take up - .

When t w o or more singl e th reads are twisted together the ,

result is a heavier yarn I t is necessary then to find the number

.

o f han ks or skein s per pound of the combi ned thread but i t must

be understood that t w o threads 2

,

0 yards long twisted toget her , ,

will be much sho r ter than the original t w o threads Th is can be .

proved by t wisti ng together t w o threads of a given length weigh ,

ing the m an d agai n measuri ng the twisted th read o r by obtain ing

, ,

t w o threads o f the origi nal yarn o f the exact l en gth o f the twisted

yarn and compa r ing their weights This p r ocess i s known as .

fi n di ng th e e q uiva l e n t o r r e su l ta n t co u n ts .

Pl y y a rns co m p o se d of t h re a d s of e q ua l c o unt s . Th e ne w

coun t i s found by dividing the given coun ts by the n umber of ply

o r threads twisted together 2 ply 6 0 s N o 3 0 writte n 2 60 s ;
’ ’
- .
-
, ,
14 TE XT I L E C A LC UL A TI ONS

3 -ply 60
’
s No . 2
0 ,
written 3 - 60
’
s 4 -ply 60
’
s No . 1 5,
written 4
A ssumi ng there is no variatio n i n the take up o f each yarn -

during twis ting equal length of each material will be required

,
.

I t frequen tly occurs i n fancy n ovelty yarn s that th reads of

u ne qua l s iz e are twisted together I f a N o 6 0 thread and a No . . .

4 0 thread are twisted together the coun t o f the doubled thread ,

will no t be the same as if t w o threads o f No 5 0 have been .

twisted For in stance when 60 hanks o f 60 s worsted are used

.
,
’

6 0 hanks o f 4 0 s wors ted will also be used and whe n these have
’
,

been twisted together there are still only 60 hanks but 6 0 ha nks ,

of th e former coun t weigh o ne pou nd while 60 ha nks o f t h e latter ,

weigh 1 %pounds con sequen tly the 6 0 hanks of twisted t hreads

,

equal pounds .

R ul e I 6 Th e product of the given counts divided by their

.

sum gives the new coun t o f twisted yarn

,
.

60 x 4 0
1 00
No . 2
4 worsted .

So m e allowance must be made fo r take up or contraction i n -

twi sti ng but this will vary wi th the n umber of turn s of twist pe r
,

i nch i n the yarn and the diameter o f the th reads .

Take up con traction and shri n kages are n ot conside r ed i n

-
, ,

these exam ples .

"

R11 16 1 7 When three o r more unequal threads are twisted

.

together the coun ts o f the resulting twist thread i s found by

,

dividing the highest coun t by itself and each o f the gi ven co un ts

i n succession ; the quotient i n each case represen ting the propor
t io nat e weight o f each th read Then dividing the highest cou nts .

by the sum o f the quotien ts the an swer wi l l be the new coun ts ,

.

Example Find the coun ts o f a 3 ply th r ead composed of -

one thread each of 2

.

0 s 3 0 s and 6 0 s cotton
’ ’ ’
.
, ,

60 60 1
60 30 260 6 1 0 s coun t o f 3 pl y cotto n thread ’

2
- .
,

60 0 3
6

Fi nd the cou nts of a 3 -ply thread composed of one thread

eac h of l 2
0
’
s, 60
’
s , a nd 40
’
s co tto n .
 TE X T I L E C AL C ULA T I ONS 15

Co m p o und Th re a d Co m p o s e d It i s of Diff e re nt Ma t e ria l s .

obvious that when threads composed of differen t m ate rial s are

twisted together i t i s necessary to first reduce all to the denomina
tion of the yarn system i n which it i s required .

Suppose a compound twist thread i s made up o f o ne thread

of 2 4 s b l ack worsted o ne thread 1 6 s red cotton and one t h r ead
’
,
’
,

8 s green cotton
’
Fi nd the equivalen t counts in worsted as fo l lows :
2
.

84 0 X 1 6 5 60 4 wo r sted
2
.

840 X 8 5 60 1
2
4 24 1
2
4 24 1 2
4 4 6
’
coun ts of 3 -p l y thread in worsted
2 12 2
s, .

4 z

4
What i s the equival en t i n a single woo l en th r ead of a 3 pl y -

yarn composed o f r un woo l en 2 0 s cotton and 3 0 s worsted ? ’ ’

2
,

840 X 0 =2

5 60 X 30
r un woolen 3 .

EX A M PL ES FOR P R A CT I CE

I f a thread of 2
.

"

1 . 0 s and a th r ead of 4 0 s si ngle worsted

’ ’

be twist e d together what is the resultan t coun ts ?

2 What i s the resu l tan t counts (a ) o f 3 0 s and 60 s cotto n
,
’ ’
.

twisted together ( 6) o f 3 0 lea and 60 lea li ne n twisted together

, ,

and (e ) o f 3 0 s and 6 0 s worsted twisted together ?

’ ’

3 . A 3 ply th r ead i s made by twi sting the followi ng yar ns :

.

one thread 1 0%run woolen o ne thread 3 0 s wo r sted o ne thread ’

2
, ,

0 s cotton
’
What would be the equiva l en t coun ts o f the c o m
.

pound thread i n (a ) singl e cotton ( 6) woolen cut ( 0 ) si ngl e worsted, , ,

and (d) woo l en run

4 . G i ve the resu l tan t coun ts o f 3 6 s 4 5 s and 5 4 s worsted ’
,
’
,
’

y arn t w isted together

Ho w m any h an ks w o u l d there be i n 1 pound o f 2
.

5 ply -

yarn made by twi sting o ne th read o f 3 2

-
.

s cotton and o ne thread

’

4 4 s cotton together
’

6 G iven 3 6 metric cotton coun ts fi nd t he equivale nt coun ts

When twi sted wi th a 6 0—2
.
,

spun si l k the an swer t o be i n cotton coun ts

,
.

7 What woul d be the resultan t counts i n spun silk o f 3 0 s ’

worsted 2 0 2
.

— spu n silk twi sted together ?

,
16 TEXTI L E C A L C UL A TI ONS

Fi nd th e e quiva l en t c o un ts o f 2
8 . 0 s 32s a nd 5 0 s w o rsted
’
.
’
,
’

twisted together .

9 A thread i s compos e d of t w o threads 4 0 s worsted and ’

—2
.
,

o ne thread spun si l k Fi nd the eq uiva l en t co un ts i n cotton

Find th e r esultan t coun ts o f 7 0 s 6 0 s 4 0 s and 2
.
.

10
’ ’
0 s
’ ’
.
, , ,

cotton twisted together .

F A NCY A ND NO"ELTY
Y A R NS .

Novelty yarn s such as knop spi ral loop corkscre w chai n

, , , , , ,

etc are m ade from various lengths of threads and con sequen tly the
.
, ,

previous ru l es wi l l not app l y i n al l cases I f the r e i s n o variatio n .

i n le ngths the same number of hanks will be requi r ed of each

,

kind o f yarn but when lengths va r y the coun ts of the twi sted
, ,

threads will a l so vary acco r di ng to the seve r al m odification s of

take up i n the material used
- .

For example if i t i s desired to make a fancy yarn from three

differen t coun ts of y a r n say 4 0 s 3 0 s and 2
,
’
0 s cotton the tak e up
’ ’

, , , ,

i n each case being equal what l ength and weight of each material ,

is necessar y
R ul e 1 8 First find the necessary n umber of pounds of each
.
,

yarn to give equal length by dividing the highest coun ts by itself ,

an d the counts of each of the others t h e re s ul t being the r elative ,

z

weight required of each .

40 40 z 1 pound .

A
( ) 40 30 z 1 %pounds
2 2pounds
.

40 0 z .

Th e
respective weights of the yarn mu l tiplied by their cou nts
wi l l give the r equired n um ber of hanks of each .

1 pou nd X 4 0 2: 40 han ks of 40
’
s cotton .

B 1 %pou nd s X 30 40 30
’

( ) hanks of s cotton
2pounds X 2 2
.

0 :4 0 hanks of 0 cotton
’
z s .

I t i s obvious that if a certai n length of twis t i s requ i red the

yarn s used must be of approximately the sa m e length whatever the ,

counts but w hen the take up varies the condi tion s are more or
,
-
,

l ess complicated .

Suppose a n ovelty yarn i s made by twisti ng t w o threads of

4 0 s red c o t to n o ne th r ead of 3 0 s green cotton and one th rea d
’ ’
, ,
 T E X TI L E CAL CUL A T I ONS 17

of 2
0 b l ack cotton and the relative l engths of mat erial used a r e
’
s ,

Find the c o unt s o f the co m bined

’

7 5 and 4 inches respectively

, ,
.

thread Th e last named thread i s st r aight or 1 00 per cen t

. .

Fi rst find the take up of each ya r n by dividing each relative

,
-

l ength by the straight or 1 0 0 pe r cen t thread .

7 %
4 2 15 take
.
-u
p .

O
( ) 5 -
I 4
; 1%
4 __
3 4 " 1 cc cc

numbe r of hanks of each ( Obtained by A and B) m ulti

Th e
plied by the take up ( obtained by C) wi l l give the n umber of hanks
-
,

o f the respecti ve yarn s necessary for the twi st yarn .

40 X 1% 70 hanks of No . 40
40 X 1 2 7
z 70 b ank s of No . 40
40 X 1% 50 hanks o f No 30
2
.

40 X 1 40 hanks o f No . 0

and these divided by their rel ative coun ts wil l give the weight ,

of each .

70 hanks 40 pounds .

70 hanks 40 pounds .

50 hanks 30 pounds
40 han ks 2
0 pounds .

pounds .

Th e
n umber of hanks nece ssa r y for equal l ength divided by
the s um of thei r weights wi l l gi ve the coun t o f the combined o r
resultant thread .

40 2 count .

To
prove find the l ength ,
of each yarn i n o ne hank of the
nove l ty ya r n thus ,

inches No 4 0 s
7 .
’
8 40 X 1% yar ds .

7 i nches No 4 0 . 840 X 1% ya r ds .

5 inches No 30 8 40 X 1 %=2 yards

4 i nches No 2
. .

0 . 840 X1 840 ya r ds .

Th e weight of each being

No 4 0 .x x 8 40 2 grs .

No 4 0 .
x 40 840 g rs .
 '
18 j EK T I LE C A LCUL A T I ONS

N0 3 1 ) :
2: X TJ IUU -
I 30 X z
g
‘
l S

2 2
. .

No . 0 8 40 X 0 X 840 2 grs .

grs .

Therefo r e ,
i f o ne hank of the n ovelty yarn weighs
t he c o unts will be coun ts the same ,

a s given i n t he ab o ve example .

W EI G HT M ATER I A L TO PR OD U C E A G I "EN W EI G HT
OF .

Th e question of dete rmin ing the actual quantity o f each ki nd

o f yarn requi r ed to produce a give n weigh t of l or fo l ded yarn
p y
is an important item i n textile calculations and may assume ,

a va r iety of forms Th e simplest form i s to assume that the

.

coun ts of the yarn s and the total weight are given and i t i s re ,

quired to find the weight or qua nti ty of each yarn to produce the
total weight For con venience assume that the coun ts o f the
yarns to be t wisted together a r e 3 0 s and 2
.
,

0 s respectively and
’ ’
,

that the total weight requi red i s pounds .

Th e fi r st s tep is to ascertai n the counts of the fo l ded yarn

r esulting from this combi nation after the manne r a l ready ,

descri bed thus

2
,

X
30
30
0
2
0
1 2 ’
s.

A fter this the process is quite simp l e , bei ng a question of

proportion or as each count i n succession i s to the count of the
, ,

folded yarn so i s the total weigh t to t h e requi r ed weight To m ake

i t clear the coun ts of si ngl e yarn s are 3 0 s and 2
.
,

0 s respecti ve l y
’ ’

the folded yarn is 1 2

, ,

s and the total weigh t pounds then

’
, ,

30 2 1 X 4 00 po unds of 30 ya r n
’
s

2 12 2
.

0 X 6 00 pounds of 0 s yarn
’
.

So that the whole is reduced to the si m plest possible form .

R ul e 1 9 To find the weight of each material required to

.

produce a give n weight of a double and twisted o r compound

yarn First ascertai n the coun ts of the t w o yarn s twi sted together
.

after the man ner laid down i n R u l e 1 6 then as each coun t i n suc ,

cession is to the compound yarn so is the total weight to the ,

weight required .
2
‘
0 T E X TI L E CAL CULA TI ONS

Ex a m p l e . 1 0 2p
n ds of twist i s r equired o f 3 0 s 4 0 s and
o u
’

,
’
,

( 30
’
s ste d
wo r . W h a t w e ight o f each c o un t will the compound
t h re ad c o nt a in ?
To Re l a t i v e W e igh t o f Ea c h Th re a d in a Co m
F i nd t h e

p o u n d Y a rn W h e n L e n g t h s "a ry B y R u l e 1 8 both the result .

,

a nt counts a nd the r e l ative weight of the t w o yarns may be obtained

A fancy loop yarn i s composed of 1 2

.

Examp l e . s and 6 0 s
’ ’

w o r sted 6 inches of the l atter being required to 3 i nches of the

What weight o f each wil l be r equi r ed to produce 2

,

fo rm er . 00
p o unds of twist and what n u m be r of hanks of the l o o p yar n will
,

we igh 1 pound
NO T E —Th l ngth f 60 i d u bl e th a t f th e u n it l e n gth f 1 2
e e o
’
s s o o o
’
s

12 2pounds
.

60 60 0 60 .

60 + 0 :
7 pounds .

or
60
’
s :2 6 3 : z 2X 60 1 0 2hanks
2:
.

1 ’
s 6 X 60 : 60 “

1 0 2 60 2pounds of 60 ’
s

1 2 5 pounds of 1 2
.

60 ’
s .

b a nk s of twis t ya r n weigh 7 pounds 6 0 + 7

p o und using R u l e 2
.

ha nks 1 0 as in previous exa m pl e

,
.

( )
a 00 X 2
2 5 7 %pounds of 60 ’
s .

6 2
00 i 5
2 2
f 14 %pounds of 1 ’
s .

Ex am p l e ya r n is composed of 2threads of 8 s
A l oop
’

w o rsted and 1 th r ead of 1 2 s w o rs ted ; 2

.

1 inches of the former a r e ’

r equi r ed to 1 4 i nches of the latter What weight of each wil l be .

r equi r ed to p r oduce 1 5 0 pounds of t w ist and what n umber o f ,

hanks pe r pound will the lo o p yarn contai n

12 of 1 2) 1 8 8 pounds
2+
.

1 8 :
12 0 1 2 12 1 .

p o unds .

Twe l ve hanks of loop yarn weigh pounds

2 2
.

1 2 han ks per pound s or loop coun ts

TT
.
 T E X TI L E CAL CUL A TI ONS 2
1

and 1 50 X 61 T T
of 8 s wo r sted
4 ’
.

1 50 x 6 1 , , of 8 s
’
4 6

1 50 x 1 of 1 2 s c c ’

1 5 0 pou nds of l o o p ya r n .

To F i nd t h e W e igh t of a G iv e n Y a rn t o be T w is t e d W it h
a Y a rn t h e W e igh t a nd Co unt s Be ing K no w n Th e p r ob l em
, .

may no w be put i n a diffe r en t w ay The r e may be a given .

quantity o f one of the yarns and i t is required to find what ,

weigh t wi l l be necessa r y to t w ist with it and j ust use i t up .

Thi s i s obviously the reve r se o f the above p r oceeding and at once ,

resolves i tsel f i nto a simple proportion being dependen t only upon

the relative co un ts ; thus 2 0 s and 3 0 s are to e ach o th e r as 2
,

i s to
’
’
l

3 and as the highe r nu m be r is the l ighte r yarn the p r o po r tion

, , ,

must be i n verse .

Supposi ng then that there are 4 00 pounds of 3 0 s ya r n and

’

it is requi red t o find h o w much 2

,

0 s wou l d be necessary to twist

’

with it Th e p r ob l em would be as 2 0 30 4 00 X 600

Proof :6 00 pounds of 2 0 s wou l d con tai n 6 00 X 2
. .

’
0
b ank s and 4 00 pounds of 3 0 s wou l d con tai n han ks s o
’

, ,

that the l ength o f each woul d be equal .

R ul e 21 Multipl y the given weight by its counts and divide

.
'

by the counts o f the requi red weight and the quotien t wi ll be the
weight req uired .

Example I f yo u have 4 8 0 pounds of 3 0 s cotton what ’

w eight o f 2
.
,

6 s cotton wou l d be requi r ed to t w ist w i t h i t to work

’

i t al l up a nd what wi l l be the counts of the resu l ting twist ?

,

4 80 X 30 6 2 pounds ’

2
.

6 X 30
2
6 30
1 3% coun ts .

Proof .

4 80 X hanks
2
.

X 6 hanks .

A "ERA G E COUNTS .

When ave r age coun ts a r e r equired it is assumed that t h e ,

.

threads are contiguous i n the woven fab r ic and retai n thei r

respect ive i nd ividual ities e g whe n t w o or more threads o f
,
. .
,
2
2 T E XTI L E C AL C UL A TION S

various sizes a re us e d sid e by sid e i n a fab ric I t i s frequen tly .

n e cessary to d e t e rmine t h e average coun ts of these th reads that i s , ,

the c o un ts whi ch will represent the same weight and l e ngth for
th e co m binati o n of s e v e ral yarn s employed i n the woven fabric

Suppos e a cloth i s wove n with the pattern as follows :2

.

threads of
6 0 s c o tton and 1 thread of 2 0 s cotton What i s th e average
’ ’
.

cou nts 2
,

R ul e 2
2 Multiply the high coun t by the n umber o f threads
.

of each coun t i n one repeat of the pattern .

60 X 2 12
0 hanks .

60 X 1 =2 60

Divide each pro duct separately by the given coun ts .

2 —
1 0 s 60 2pounds
2
.

60 0 z :8

1 80 5 po unds .

Divid e the total number of hanks by the su m of these quotien ts .

1 80 5 36 average counts .

R ul e2
3 To fi nd the average coun ts When any n umber of
.

threads o f di ff eren t counts are used i n the same cloth Divide .

the product o f the coun ts by the s um o f the unequal coun ts then ,

m ultiply by the n umber o f threads in o ne repeat o f the pattern .

The an swer is the average counts .

A sample i s composed of 1 thread o f black l 6 s cotton and ’

,

1 thread of White 4 0 s cotton Fi nd the average coun ts

’
. .

40 X 1 6 2 64 0
16 +
The threa ds are laid side by side i n the pattern and each ,

o ne retain s i ts i ndividuality therefore the average weight o f the

, ,

threads i s half that o f the compound thread o r the average coun ts ,

i s doubl e the coun ts of t h e compound thread

A pattern is composed of 2
.

threads o f 40 s black cotton and 1 ’

,

thread of l 6 s red cotton

’
Find the average coun ts
. .
 T E XTI L E C AL C UL A T ION S 2
3

sample i s composed of 1 thread o f black 1 6 s cotton and 1

’
A
‘

thread of w h ite 4 0 s cotton Fi nd th e average coun ts

’
. .

40 X
16
16
40
640
56
2 X 2 average coun ts .

The threads are laid sid e by side in the pattern and e ach o ne ,

retains its i ndividuality therefore the average w e ight of th e

, ,

threads is half that of the compound thread o r the average coun ts ,

i s double the coun ts of the compound thread

A pattern i s composed o f 2
.

threads 4 0 s black cotton and 1 ’

,

thread 1 6 s red cotton Find the average counts

’

2=
. .

4O X 8O
4O X 1 = 40 40
1 0 2
2
1 0 averag e coun ts .

40 40 1
40 40 1
40 16

40 +1 average co unts X 3
is composed o f 4 threads o f 8 0 s white cotton 2
.

’
A pattern ,

threads o f 4 0 s black cotton and 1 threa d o f 1 6 s red cotton

’
,
’
.

Find the average coun ts .

80 X 4 threads = 4

80 — 16 = 5 X 1 th re ad = 5
7 13
80 x 7
4 3%average c o un ts
13
.

Proof Obtai n the weight o f o ne b a nk o f each coun t g iven then

. ,

the weight o f an average hank with the threads o f the proportion

given and find what would be the co un ts o f that weight
,
.

1 hank o f 8 0 s 2: 80 grai n s
’
.

1 hank o f 4 0 s 40 ’
1 7 5 grains . .

1 b ank o f 1 6 s 16 ’ l
l
grains .

80 X 4 : 3 50
40 1 75 . X 2 3 50
16 X 1
7 grain s .
2
4 T E XT I L E CALCU LA T I ONS

7 grai n s average .

grain s 2 4 3 1 average coun ts

'

3; .

UN K NO W N COUNT I N A COMPOUND OR T W I S T T HR EA D .

Occasionally , i t happen s that a manufacturer o r spi nner has

given to him the coun ts of a n ovel ty o r fancy twist yarn also t h e ,

coun ts of one or more of the th read s of which i t i s composed I t .

th e n becomes necessary to find the size o f the unknown thread

which together with the known coun ts makes the compound
, ,

twist yarn .

R ul e 2
4 To find
. the required coun ts of a single yarn to be
twisted with another the coun ts of which i s already known t o pro
, ,

duce a compound o r twist thread of a kn own count Multiply the .

coun ts o f the k nown single thread by the coun ts o f the compound

or twist thread and divide the product by the k nown coun ts o f the
,

si ngle thread mi nus the known coun ts o f the compo und thread .

The quotient will be the coun ts o f the required si ngle thread .

Example H avi ng some yarn i n stock t h e coun ts o f which

.
,

i s 1 3 0 s cotton i t is desired to produce a compound or twist thread

-
’

equal to 1 1 2
,

s cotton
-
’
Find the count o f t he requ ired th read
2
. .

30
30
X 1
12
3 60
18
2
0 ’
s required thread .

Proof 30 X 20 6 00
2twist or compo
2
.

1
’
s u nd thread .

30 0 50

I n the cotton trade worsted and silk thread s are twisted with
,

cotton I n the worsted trade cotton and silk threads are twisted
.
,

with worsted I n the woolen trade cotton silk and worsted

.
, , ,

th reads are twisted wi th woolen .

For the cotton trade tran sfer the worsted and silk t o cotton
,

coun ts For the worsted trade tran sfer the cotton and silk to
.
,

worsted coun ts For the woolen trade tran sfer the cotton sil k
.
, , ,

and worst e d to woolen numbers .

R ul e 2
5 Tw o kno w n single thread a third thread required
.
,

to produce a known compound th read Fi rst find the size of the t w o .

known threads twisted t o ge th e r th e n proceed as i n previous examples

,
.

Find the coun ts of the third t h read to t wist with a 1 3 0 s cot -

’

ton thread and 1 6 0 s cotton t h read to prod uce a three pl y th re ad

-
’

2
-
, ,

e ual to a 1
’
o tto n
q s c .
 T E X T IL E CALCULA T I O NS 2
5

60 x 3 0
60
2
0
’
s cotton .

2
0 X 12 2
40
2
0 12 8 30 ’
s required .

Proof Three ply twi st 60 30 and 30

’ ’ ’
.
-
,
s, s s .

60 30 260 5 2 1 23 ply
’
s - thread
2
.

60 30
5
Find the size of a worsted thread to twist with a 1 - 30 ’
s cotton
produce a t w o pl y thread equal t o a 2
.

3 0 s cotton
’
to - - .

23 0 -
’
s 1 15 -
’
s cotton .

30 X 1 5 4 50
30 cotton
’
s
30 15 " 15 .

84 0 X 30

——
7 36 0 45 ’
s required worsted thread .

EX A MPL ES F OR PR A CTI CE .

1 . A pattern is composed of 4 threads of 80 ’

black worsted
s

3 threads o f 6 0 s white worsted and 1 thread o f

’
,
1 6 s blue worsted
’
.

Find the average coun ts

2 Find the coun ts o f the required thread to twist with a
.

4 0 s cotton to produce a compo und thread equal t o a 2

.

’
4 s ’

Fi nd what coun ts twi sted with 2

.

3 4 s cotton would produce

’
.

a compound thread equal to a 9 s cotton ’

.

4 R equired the coun ts of a spun silk thread to twist with a

2
.

0 s cotton and a 3 0 s worsted to produce a 3 ply thread equal t o

’ ’
-

a 3%run woolen
- .

5 Find the coun ts o f a third thread to twist with a 3 0 s co t ’

t o n and a 2 0 s cotton to p roduce a 3 ply thread equal t o a 1 2

.

’ ’
,
s -

cotton
C ON ST A NT8 .

I n figuring textiles there are m any nu m bers which are c o n ‘

s ta ntl repeated thus making i t desirable to dispense with some of

y ,

them by cancelling o ne i n to the other fo r instance :7 OOO 8 4 0 , ,

56 0 etc , .
2
6 T EX T IL E CALCULA T I ONS

Th e s e n umb e rs are also used in reverse ord e r o ne b e in g ,

multi pli e d by or divided i n to the other very frequ e ntly To

, ,
.

sim plify these calculation s the following con stants have been
,
‘

worked out and will prove a valua ble referenc e tabl e :

L o ng Me t h o d F irs t Co ns ta nt S e c o nd Co ns t a nt .

Wo o le n 36 2
1 15
3 47 2
.

W o rs t e d 7 , OOO 5 60 36
2
.

Co tto n 8 40 36 . 3 14
L ine n 7 .000 3 00 36 . 648

Wo o le n . 2
28
W o rs t e d 5 60 08
2
.

Co tt on 840 . 1
L ine n 300 . 043

Frequen tly the counts of a very small amoun t o f yarn i s re

q ui red
,
and to obtain the necessary data a pair of fi ne grai n scales ,

i s one o f the most necessary pieces of apparatus required i n a

manufacturer s o r designer s o ffi ce
’ ’
.

Suppose a sample o f w oolen cloth contains 4 0 threads per inch

and the sample i s 2 i nches long then there would be 4 0 X 2 8 0 ,

i nches o f yarn and these threads weigh

, . grai n s What is the .

run o f the yarn

R ul e 2
6 . Multiply the num be r of i nches o f yarn by
( the n umber o f grain s i n 1 and divide by the w e ight ( i n grains )
of the yarn multiplied by th e standard number and by 3 6 The
, ,
.

an swer will be the run o f the yarn .

80 X
2 3 8 8 “ 1 1"
x x 36
E x ample I f a sample of cotton cloth 1 inch long has 4 0
.

warp threads in 1 i nch and the yarn we ighs gra m s what is

, ,

the coun t ?
40 X
X 840 X 36
E x planation A s there are . gra i n s l n 1 lb and 840 .

yards o f n u m ber 1 yarn i n 1 lb 8 4 0 g ives the n umber o f

.

grai ns i n o ne yard o f n umber 1 yarn o r 8 %grains The co nstants ,

.
,

as we have 4 0 warp threads per inch 8 %grai n s m ultiplied by 4 0 , ,

gives us the weight i n grains of one run ni ng yard o f n u m ber 1

warp one i nch i n width o r 3 33 %grai n s , .
2
R T E X T IL E CALC ULA T I ON S

75 X
F i rs t c o ns tan t
,

X
1

coun ts

2
36
.

Sec o nd c o n sta nt
75 > . 34 7 2
.

5
coun ts .

T ES T I NG YA R N .

Th e term Yarn T e sti ng mean s a great deal m ore than t he

”

c a sual observer i n a m ill supposes Failure to tes t yarn or i m .

,

pe rfect testing may cause serious trouble I t i s often necessary to .

t e st yarn s in a variety of ways and for differen t purposes The ,

.

m ost common test and i t m ay be safely said the only test which is
,

applied i n a large num b e r of mills is to ascertai n the counts but , . ,

there are in stances when the ya rn should be tested for s tre ngth ,

e l a s t icity e ve nne ss a nd a l it
, f q
or u , y .

This l atter test i n some cases i s a di ffi cult one and the ques ,

tion often arises as to what is meant by quality A s applied to .

yarn s the term quality is di fficult to defi ne brie fly and accurately

, ,

i n fact i t may almost be sai d t hat i t can not be defined because as

, ,

applied to differen t classes o f yarn i t has altogether di ff eren t mean

i ngs Without attempting to give defin ition s an effort will be
.
,

made to show what the di fferen t qualities o r characteristics o f yarn

comprise and so ascertai n what tests are ne c e ssary to decide their
,

suitabili ty for th e purpose to which th e y are to be applied .

The first step in yarn testing is to test the coun ts which m ean s ,

to find the weight and size of the yarn A s previously explained .

,

there must be some standard measuremen t or weight and some ,

means of d e te rmin in g the bulk o r quanti ty of yarn I n this case .

the det e rmination i s based upon the length of yarn i n a given

weight as for in stan c e the n umber of yards per pound ounce o r
, , , , ,

grain ; but i n differen t yarns an d di fferen t sections o f the coun try ,

this i s a v ariable quan ti ty Fo r example the counts of cotton are

.
,

figured by hanks per 1h and the hank contains 8 4 0 yards Worsted

.
,
.

is also figured by the hank but the length of yarn is 5 60 yards ,

.

The basis o f lin e n calculation s i s the lea which is practically equi v ,

al e nt to the han k but con tain s 3 00 yard s Woolen is reckoned .

,

i n a variety of ways but chiefly by ,

yards to the pound .

There appears then to be only one w ay o f dealing with thi s ‘

sub ject s o as to m eet the r e quiremen ts of studen t s o f differen t di s

 T E X T IL E CALCU LA T I ONS 2
9

t ric ts ,and that is to deal wi th i t on g e neral li nes a nd illustrate

, ,

with e x ampl e s from the b e st known and generally reco gnized s ys

tem of coun ting yarns and i n such a m an ner that the studen t c a n
,

readily adapt himself to a ny ; o th e r system .

Te s t ing fo r C o unt s The process of testing for counts i n th e

.

cotton and worste d systems i n which the method of indicati ng th e ,

coun t i s general may no w be explained I n testi ng these yarn s in

,
.

the mill there are two system s i n use ; one by what i s known as
,
”
th e “
quadran t which i s a balance with a graduated scale and upo n
,

which a certai n numb e r of yards is placed when a poi n ter i ndicates ,

the co un ts ; the other system i s by weighing wi th an ordinary fine

balance and grain weights The latter test is frequently done i n a .

care less manner and very inferior balances employed with the ,

result that the tests are very un satisfactory .

The qua dra nt arrangemen t i s very us eful because the i n

”

dic ato r sh o ws the coun ts the momen t the yarn i s pu t o n the hook .

The arrangemen t i s very simple i n principle being i n fact n othi ng ,

m ore than an ad justed balance or leve r I f i t i s arranged for cot .

ton or worsted the t w o arm s o f th e lever that is the hook e nd and

, , ,

th e in dicator respect ively are so balanced that o ne i s say seven , ,

times the w e ight o f the other o r more properly speaki ng that their ,

relation to each other and to the scale i s as 7 to 1 Then i f 4 o f a .

,

han k is placed upon the hook the i ndicator i s at once brought to ,

the poin t o n the scale which shows the n umb e r o f han ks per p o und ‘

When cotton i s to be tested 1 2

.

0 yards are measured o ff and p laced ,

upon the balance and the poin ter at on ce i ndicates the coun ts ; if
,

worsted 8 0 yards are measured o ff and balanced with a similar

,

result .

”
I t must be clearly understood that the quadrant balan ce is
“

always made for a given class of work and t o weigh a given n um ,

ber of yards ; i t i s n ot usually made so t hat it can be applied to

every purpos e but like most special machines must be applied t o
, , ,

the testing o f a specified class o f yarn and a specified number of ,

yards weighed Of course the O perator may vary this with a little
.
,

in gen uity but this would i n volve calculati on s and con se quen tly
, ,

the machine would lose its advan tages .

R e e l i ng By thi s syste m any length of yarn may be reeled

.

o ff and w e ighed and the e x act coun ts fou nd by calculation .

30 T EXTI L E C A L C ULA TI O NS

This ope ration i s carried o n by mean s of a reel ; o ne of the best ex

amples of which i s shown at Fig 1 A s ufficient length o f ya rn . .

ca n be readily meas ured o n this machine to tes t the coun ts to t h e

g reatest degree of accuracy .

The reel is 5 4 i nches o r one and one half yards i n circum -

ference and the dial i s graduated i n to 1 2

, ,

,
0 parts to i ndicate t h e
n umber of yards reeled from each spindle While feeding yarn .

upon the reel the yarn guides and the spindles are k ept i n li n e
,

with each other this being very desi rable i n fact necessary
, , ,

when reelin g fine yarns The extra length o f the yarn g uides is
.

useful i n increasing the friction upon the yarn by ta k ing a half

turn or m ore around the m The automatic feed motion lays the .

yarn flat upon the reel thus securing accurate and uniform measure
,

men t and consequently correct res ults as to stretch strength and

, , ,

n umbering When the skei n i s take n o ff the reel i t i s weighed

.
,

and the counts calculated fro m the weight .

I t i s a com m on practice to reel yarn upo n a machi ne o f very

inferior con struction and i n a very rough m anner which o f course
, ,

produces doubtful results Fo r example i n reeli ng worsted yarns

.
, ,

it i s a com mon practice to use a reel wi th a circumference o f o ne

yard and which does no t distribute the yarn i n the man ner indi
,

c ate d The n umber o f yard s which will correspond to the i ntended

.

counts o f the yarn is measured o ff by coun ti ng the turn s o f the

reel the n thi s yarn i s weighed i n a common apothecaries balan ce ’

again s t a weight of 1 2
,

% grai n s and if i t balances o r approximatel

y
balances the 1 2
,

%grain s i t i s said t
,
o be o f the counts i ndicated by

the n umber of yards weighed Sim ilar systems are sometimes used .

in the cotton and woolen industries and i n some cases the meth , , ,

o ds are if possible eve n m ore crude

, ,
Bu t although this is the .
,

common practice i t i s no t su fficient fo r good work therefore we

, , ,

must have m ore complete systems

The first q uesti o n which suggests itself is h o w is the 1 2
.

% ,

grain s found t o be the con stan t weight and what weight would ,

be employed for other yarns ? The grain weight being the ,

lowest o f the recogn ize d standard weights is made use o f and as , ,

there are grain s i n o ne pound ( A voi rdupois ) this is di v ided ,

by 5 60 ( the n um ber o f yards in o ne han k ) wh ich gives Fo r

cotto n 8 %grai n s would be the constan t ; fo r woolen 4 %grain s ,
.
 T EX T IL E CA LC ULA T I ONS 31

How to of a sc e rta
y in t/zeor n um be r c o tt o n a rn . R eel ,
measure off and weigh 9 1 8 3 0 9 0 or any number of yards of
, , , , ,

the yarn obs e rving that the greater the number the more accurate
,

t h e result will be .

R ul e 27 Multiply the number

. of yards by 8 %and divide
the product by the w e i ght of the sample i n grai n s ; the quotien t
will be the number of th e yarn i e th e nu m ber o f han ks i n a ,
. .
,

p ound .

Example Suppose 9 y ards w e igh 5 grain s ; then 9 X 8 %

.

F ig . 1 . B ro w n S h ar p e Y arn R e e l .

75 75 5 15 th e umb e r f y ar n , i th e number of
’
. s. n o . e .,

hanks to a pound .

R ul e 2
8 .
f To a s ce rta in or t li e nu m be r o l in e n y a r n . R eel ,
meas ure o ff an d weigh 9 1 8 3 0 90 o r any n umber of yards the
, , , , , ,

g reater the numb e r the more accurate the result will be Multiply
the n um b e r of yards by 2
.

3%and di vide the product by the weight

of the sample in grai ns ; t h e quotien t will be th e number o f the
yarn
Examples Suppo se 1 2 yards weigh 1 7%gra m s ; then 1 2X
.

2 2
.

3% 9 80 80 1 7% 1 6 the n umber o f c o un ts per pound

Suppos e 9 y ard s we igh 5 grai ns ; then 9 X 2 2 2
. .
,

3% 10 10 -

42
.

5 z the count of the yar n

,
.

R ul e 2 9 To th e n u m be r of w o r ste d y a rn
. R eel or .
,

measure off and weigh 9 1 8 3 0 9 0 or any number of yards

, , , , , ,

the g re ater th e n umber t h e more accurat e the resul t will be .

3 2 T E X T I L E CALCUL A T I ONS

M ultiply th e yards by 1 2 % and d ivid e t h e pr o duct b

y t h e w e ight

o f t h e sampl e in grain s ; t h e qu o tie nt will be t h e n umb e r o f the

y arn i e the numb e r of hanks or skei ns t o the pou nd

E x ampl e Suppos e 9 yards weigh 5 grain s ; then 9 X 1 2

. . .
, ,

.
%
5 t h e number of the yarn .

R ul e 3 0 To fi nd th e r u n o r n u m be r of w o o l e n y a rn R eel
. .
,

or measure off and weigh any number of yards of the yar n o b

, ,

serving that the greater the nu m b e r the mor e accurate the r sult e

will be Multi ply the numb e r of yards by 4 %a nd div id e th e p roduct

.

F ig . 2S . a m pl S
e c al e s .

the we ight of the sample i n grai ns ; the quotien t will be the

num ber of han ks per pound .

Examples Suppose 90 yards weigh 4 5 grain s ; then 90 X

.

4% 45 the n um ber of run of the yarn .

Suppose 9 yards weigh 5 grai n s ; then 9 X ‘

5 or the number o f the yarn .

The common practice i n testi ng yarn s i s What might be termed

a rough and ready one yet i t i s often con sider e d sufficien t i n ordi
,

nary practical work but for good analysi s a more perfect and
,

delicate system must be used .

Suppose for i nstance that it i s required to reproduce a cloth

, , ,

or for any purpose to make a complete analysi s of it The opera .

tion ought t o be conducted with as much care and n icety as a

chemi st makes a qu antitati ve an alysis ; i n fact i t m ust be a quan , _

t ita t iv e analysis The coun ts of the yarn must be ascertained with

.
 TE X T I L E CA L C UL A T I O NS 33

the gre atest degree of e x acti tud e as w e ll as the di ff e re nt quan tities

,

of the material employed threads and picks per inch etc and i f
, ,
.
,

only a small piece o f cloth i s availabl e th e re must be careful work ,

.

Of course by long e x perience and car e ful observation a m a nufac

, ,

turer may guess or as he terms it judge wi th a degree of ac

,
“
, ,

curacy what th e yarn i s but this i s not accurate enough He may

,
.

have to try many e x perimen ts some of them costly before he ar , ,

rives at the resul t desired whereas a syste m of analysis carefully

, ,

carried o ut will give him results at once Thi s a ppli e s at present

, .

to testi ng yarn s for coun ts and ascertai ni ng the n umber of threads

,

per inch in a sam pl e but i t will a p ply to oth e r s y stems which will
,

com e under notice i n due tim e Then as to the requisites fo r this .

wor k .

S ca l e s The first and most important i s a good balance Of

. .

these there are many styles which weigh to di fferen t degre es of ac

curacy Small balances or scales may be had for a few dollars
.
,
'

and for a studen t w h o can not give m o re for his o w n private use ,

they are better than nothing certainly bett e r than trying t o guess
,

the coun ts o f yarn A go od balance and o ne which may come

within the studen ts reach is shown at Fig 2 These balances are
.
,
'
’
. .

made t o wor k with the utmost degree o f accuracy and will weigh ,

o ne pound by ten thousandths of a pound .

The scales ill ustrated at Fig 3 are still b e tter how e ver as .
, ,

they wei gh by th e g rai n syst e m These scales will weigh o ne .

pou n d by tenths o f grain s or o ne seventy th o usandth part of one

,

pound A voirdupois which makes them especially well adapt e d for

,

use in con nection with yarn reels for the numbering o f yarn from ,

weight o f hank givi ng the weight in tenths of grai ns to compare

,

with tables .

These scales can be had to weigh by th e m e tric s yst e m to

4 gram being supplied with wei g hts of 1 2 5 1 0 20 4 0 6 0
1 0 0 and 2
30 , , , , , , , , ,

,
0 0 grams .

When the testi ng is merely for percen tages the gram weights ,

are the m ost convenient as they are based upon the decimal system
, ,

but where it is a question of ascertaining the counts of yarn or the

weight o f cloth the grai n weights are the best to use With the
, .

ab o ve series o f scal e s and weights tests can be carried o ut to ,

alm ost perfect accuracy .

34 T E X T IL E CA LCU L A T I O NS

""h e n
a ve ry s m all qu a ntity o f yarn is availabl e say one or ,

t w o yards i t mus t b e w e ighed wi t h great care Of course w hen

a large quantity i s available fin d no w many yards will w e igh 1 2
.
, ,

, %
grain s if the yarn i s w o rsted ;
,
grains i f cotton ; and so on for
oth e r yarn s accordi ng to the system o f counting Suppose for
,
.
,

instance that it i s require d to t e st the yarn i n a cl o th a nd o nly a

, ,

small piece c a n b e o btained s ay t w o or thr e e s quar e i nch e s This

,
.

F ig 3
. . B ro wn S h ar p S
e c al e s .

must be m e asur e d carefully and as many threads taken out as will

,

make o ne yard tw o yards or as much as possible For example

, ,
.
,

l e t i t be two yards of worst e d weighi ng 1 T 3 ? grain s

3 9
Find the .

counts I f t w o yards weigh 1 T 6 3 grain s h o w m any yards will

.
3 9
,

w e i gh grai ns Putti ng i t i n t h e usual form of a proportion

as 1 i 9
1 0 0
.
2 yards or th e r e are that number o f ,

yards i n one pound A s there are 5 6 0 yards p e r hank i n worsted

.
,

and the counts are i ndicated by the n umb e r of h anks per pound ,

the must b e divided by 5 60 thus 5 60 18 ,

.

hanks nearly t hen the counts would be called 1 8 s as i t is near

,
’
,

that n umber I f it were cotton the sam e rule would apply but
.
, ,

i n st e ad of dividi ng by 5 60 th e y ards would have to be divided by

12 hanks or equal to 1 2
,

8 4 0 thus ,
84 0 s coun ts If ,
’
.

i t were woolen on the run system i t would be divided by ,

and so on for other varieties of yarn I n such small quan t iti e s as .

thi s there i s always som e sli ght liability to error but with caref ul
w o r k this should n ot exceed 2
, ,

per cen t .
36 T E X T I L E CA LC UL A T I O NS

o thr e ads I t i s advisabl e to wet t h e yarn s at the poin t where

f th e .

they a re cro ss e d pre vious to twisting D uring comparison threads

,
.
,

a re add e d o r tak e n from one or th e oth e r of the sets and agai n

twisted as di rected a nd compared un til the two sets appear to m ake
a simila r t hickness of thr e ad .

I t follows that when the n umber of threads of a known coun t

are of equal thickness to some other n umber of threads of unkno w n
coun ts these numbers bear a simple and di rect proportion to e ach
,

other .

F ig . 4 . Te s t ing b y Co m p ari so n.

Example 6 threads of 2 3 0 s worsted are found by twisting

.
-
’

and comparison t o equal 8 threads of some unkn own coun t What

is the coun t o f the unkn own threads ? 2
.

30 s 15 Then as -
’

20 s or 2
.

6 : 8 z: X 4 0 s worsted i e 8 thread s twisted

’ ’
15 -
'

together of 2 4 0 s are equal in thickness to 6 threads 2

. .
, ,

30 s
’ ’
- -

worsted twist ed together .

This method o f testing is used practically because a m ill m an ,

-

usually uses the nearest counts he has i n stock t o the coun ts o f

yarn i n the sample to duplicate Others do not trust to the eye .

when comparing yarn s but prefer t o use a magnifying glass o r

,

m 1 c ro sc o p e .

Co ns t a nt s f o r T e s t in g Ya rns f o r Co unt s b y W e ig h ing S h o rt

L e ng t h s of Co tt o n .

1 . divided by w e ight in grain s of 1 lea coun ts .

2 Th . e n umber of i nches that weigh 1 grain X 2 31 4 .

coun ts .

3 . Numb e r o f yards wei g hed . 1 2X weight i n grain s

coun ts
4 The number of strands of yarn each 4 7 5% i nches or
.
,

inch e s lo ng that weigh 1 grain co un ts .

5 Th e num ber of yards weighed X 8 %

. weight i n grain s
coun ts .
 T E X T I L E CALCU L A T I ONS 37

ST R UC UR E OF C LOT H T .

Structure of cloth does not mea n the fabric no r the yarns ,

from which the fabric i s con structed but i t designates the m aterials ,

from which the fabric i s made together with the system of i nter ,
.

weavi ng I t has been explai ned that n o woven fabric can be pro
.

duc e d without crossing o r interweaving at right angles two distinct

, ,

sets o f threads I n the I n struction Papers o n Textile Design several

.

systems o f interweaving are gi ven and the m ean ing o f plain o r cot
to n weave prunella twill cassimere twill basket or hopsack weave
, , , ,

fiv e harness sateen etc are explai ned

-
,
.
,
Now the ob ject i s to find .
,

the qua n tity a nd kind of y a rn which when used with certai n , ,

weaves will prod u ce a fabri c o f good s tructure .

The p l a in w e a ve is the simplest texture requiring only t w o ,

threads o f warp and t w o pick s o f filling to complete the full weave .

No t only is i t the simpl e st but i t i s the m ost lim ited i n size

,
If .

t w o threads are drawn in on the same harness s ide by side or t w o ,

picks are placed i n the same Openi ng o r shed i t is no t a plain ,

weave and if o ne thread is taken away th e fabric is left without

, ,

any m ean s o f binding o r i nterweaving .

A dding t o the plai n structure and only admitting o f o ne ad

ditio nal thread and pick we enter o n the fir st lesson o f figure and
,

twi l l weaving and the weave is designated as the thre e ha rn e ss

,
-

tw il l o r p r un e l l a tw i l l This is the first fo rm o f diagonal o r rib

.

eff e c t at an angle o f 4 5 degrees and wi th the variation s o f this ,

weave we can work o ut design s o n a figure d basi s by twilli ng to

the right for a number o f threads and then reversi ng the twill ,

using eith e r the warp fl ush o r the fil l in fl ush weaves o r c o m b in

g
- -

ing the t w o .

The addition o f o ne more thread forms the s w a ns do w n w e a ve

which is a regular four harness fil l ing flush twill advan cing o ne
-
,

thread and o ne pick i n regular con secuti ve order form ing a twill ,

o r diagonal at an angle o f 4 5 degrees We may say that wi th this .

n umber o f threads o r this weave the field for ne w combination s is

, ,

unli m ited for with four harnesses an endless variety o f fabrics

, ,

are con structed such as dress goods men s wear etc We aves
, ,
’
, .

which repeat o n four harnesses are very useful i n cotton woolen , ,

and worsted man ufacture .

A dding o ne mor e thr e ad and one m ore pick gives five thread s
38 T E X T I L E CA LCUL A T I ONS

in the warp an d fi ve picks i n t h e fillin g ; t h e smallest n umb e r o n

,

which a s a te e n w e a ve may be c o n structed Th e r e i s i n use a .

weave o f four harnesses ca l led the crowfo ot w e ave which i s s o me ,

times called a satee n or do e skin but as the first a nd s e cond th re a ds ,

run consecutively to the righ t and the third and fourth run con ,

secutively to the left i t can n ot be a sateen A true sateen must

,
.

i n no i n stance have t w o threads runni ng con secutively either to

th e le f t or to the right .

Sateen s generally have a warp fl ush s urface which giv e s a -

,

soft an d full appearan c e to the fabric and are used more or less
i n the con struction of fancy figured goods and piece dyed fabrics -
,

such as damasks and table linen covert coatings beavers etc A s , , ,

.

the weave i s either a warp fl ush o r a fil l ing fl ush face the char
- -
,

acter o f the cloth i s always of a limited nature .

Th e de riv a tiv e s of th e s a te e n are very di versified i n character ,

but more perfect i n structure than those obtained from other weaves
or m odes o f i n terweavi ng .

So far we have been con sidering simple weaves or cloths con

,

structed o n a o ne weave basis but the method of con structing fabrics

-
,

fro m a combi nation o f several weaves i s a mos t comprehen sive o ne ,

and the e ff ects produced cover a wide range of fabrics .

Co m b ina t io n o f W e a v e s I n all cases when a fancy figured

.

e ff ect is requi red i n cloth made from the same shade o f yarn this ,

principle is i n variably adopted as every plan o f i nterweaving , ,

whether twill basket diamond herri ng bone spo t ted o r all over
, , ,
-
,
-

effects can be produced by a combination of weaves

,

The essen tial poin ts t o be n oticed i n combi n ing o r am al ga m at

ing two three o r more weaves are ( a ) class o f fabrics to be con
, ,

str ucted (b) the capabilities of each weave i n tended t o be combined

,

with other weaves .

Some weaves are speciall y adapted for cotton effects others ,

for silk woolen o r worsted To combine weaves without due con

, ,
.

sideration as to thei r utili ty is a useless toil To amalgamate .

weaves for fulled woolen goods is a waste o f time as weaves fo r

-
,

woolen goods should be o f a regular an d uniform character and ,

those nearly approachi ng each oth e r are preferable I n cotton and .

worsted goods the O pposi te characteris tics are desired and the m an ,
.
 TE X TIL E CA LCUL A T I ONS 39

in terlacing is of t h e utmost im portanc e ; th e pri ncipal fe ature

ne r o f
'

of a worst e d fabric b e in g i ts d e cid e d a nd cl e arl y d e fi ned weave s .

O ur con sideration s have thus far been the structur e o f a fabric

as a ff e cted by the weave For o ur ne x t co nsideration we wil l tak e
.

the s tructure of a fabric as affe cted by its relation to warp and filli ng .

The s t re ngth u t il ity and the p urp o s e of th e s tru cture must

, ,

be co nsidered G enerally speaki ng the smaller the yarn s the

.
, ,

larger the flushes i n w e aves which may be e mployed A cloth con

yards to the poun d 2
.

structed with yarn 4 threads to the inch ,

using the plai n weave would be firm and regular i n con struction ,

but i f it were woven i n an 8 harness twill 4 up and 4 down it -

, ,

would be very loose coars e and open i n con struction This clearly
,
.

shows that weaves that are useful for one class of yarn are not ,

s uitable for all so we m ust have i n mi nd the quality of texture

,

required when laying out or con structing a cloth

,
.

W hen com bi n in g weaves the importance o f th e filling capacity

'

must not be lost sight of and when several weaves are combined , ,

the complete des i gn must possess a si m ilar capacity for the ad

mission of the filling .

The con struction of a cloth i n its broadest sen se is to con sider ,

the weave size of yar ns and materials of which they are made
, ,

and also to en ter in to the details and calculation s requi red i n c o n

ne c t io n with the correct method of building a perfect structure Th e .

f o l l o w in g p o i nt s s h o u l d be n o te d w h e n co ns tru c ti ng a fa bric :
Weave or co m bi nation of weaves
,
.

J udgme nt i n selecting weaves for com bination .

The class of fabric in tended to be produced wheth e r wool , ,

worst e d cotton or silk

, ,
.

The weavi ng capabiliti e s of the separat e w e ave s t o be combi ne d .

Weaves combined to have an equal filli ng capacity .

The purpose and utility of the fabric .

Nature of the raw material to be used .

The size of the yarn s for warp and filli ng .

The number of turn s of twist to be put i n war p a nd fi l li ng yar ns .

The numb e r o f thr e ads in the war p per i nch .

The number o f picks of filli n g p e r i nch .

The take up i n weaving - .

Th e process i n dry finishing .

40 T E X T I L E CA LCUL A T I ONS

S c o uri n g full ing sh e ari ng

, ,
.

Fini s hin g shri nkage .

DI A M ETER 0 F TH R E A DS .

Th e
s q ua re root of th e yards pe r lb will g ive the diameter of .

t h e yarn o r th e n u m be r of threads which will lie sid e by side i n

,

o ne i nch without being i n terlaced with another s e t o f threads .

E x ample S uppose a cloth is to be made fro m 8 0 s cotton

.
’
,

a nd i t i s desired to asc e rtai n the n umber of threads that wil l lie

side by side in one i nch of space .

80 X 8 4 0 y ards o f 8 0 s cotton in 1 lb Extract ’

.

ing the square root of

1/

A llow 7 p e r cen t for shri nkage of yarn from first Spin .

7% 2

NOTE — W h e n t h e t e n s io n , w h ic h y
i s p ut o n a rn i n s p in ni n g i s re
k
,

m o ve d , c o t to n s h ri n s7 per ce nt ; w o rs t e d 1 0 p e r c e n t ; w oo len 14 p e r
c e nt a nd s il k4p er c e nt .

A s a fraction , i t will give the diameter of the th re ad, l

‘

as
m
of an inch therefore 2
fi
4 1 threads of 80 s co t ton would lie side by
’

, ,

side i n o ne inch S pace Th e same r ule will apply t o woole n and

- .

worsted yarn s where the basis of the calculation s i s o f a similar

,

character .

Example . Suppose a cloth i s wanted from 40 ’

s worsted .

40 X 5 60 2 yards per lb .

1/ 10% approximatel
( y
Therefore threads of 4 0 s worsted will lie side by side i n 1 i nch
1 35
’
.

R ul e 3 1 To fi nd the diameter of any yarn use the square

.

root of 1 coun ts i n yarn required as a constan t n umber and multiply , ,

the square root of the coun ts of the required diameter by the con
stant Thus the square root of 1 s worsted is 1/ 5 6 0
.
’

10%

W hat i s th e diam e ter of 16 ’

s worsted yarn ?
1/ 1 6 4 . 4
 T E X T IL E CA LCUL A T I ON S 41

B A L ANCE OF C LOTH .

There a re no defi ni te rul e s to d e t e rmi ne what i s perfection i n

a textile fabric The ter m Bal a nce of Cloth i s capable of wid e
“ ”

i nterpretation b ut the generally accepted m eani ng is the propor

,

tion i n which the warp and filli ng stand to each o t her A second .

i n terpretation is the d istance the threads are s e t from each other

accordi ng to thei r weight and diameter This would be correct if .

all cloths were made on the same pri nciples b ut as all classes o f ,

fabrics are no n made for the same purpose ei t h e r as to wear ,

or general utili ty n o d e finite n or systematic rules can be given

,

that will apply to every variety of textiles .

S uppose a concern i s maki ng dress goods and has found that ,

the layout o r construction of this fabric on a plai n weave basis is , ,

all that can be desired The warp and the filli ng threads are made
.

o f the same mater ial and the w arp is so s e t i n the reed that the
,

dia m e ter of th e t h re a ds and the sp a c e s be tw e e n th e th re a ds are

e ua l
q ; the filling threads are equal i n coun ts or diameter t o the

warp threads and there are the same number of threads and spaces
,

in the same area as there are i n the warp Thi s layout may be .

considered as represen ting an eq ually balan ced fabric and i t does ,

not matter what th e material may be whether cotton linen woolen , , , ,

o r silk the construction o f such a cloth is perfect and i s made o n

,

the truest principles .

Taki ng the plai n cloth as here laid o ut as the foundation for

a reliable basis we have something o n which to commen ce o ur
,

further studies o n cloth construction .

I t very frequen tly happen s that to produce special e ffects this ,

pri nciple must be departed from W e may wish to make a cord.

or rib run ni ng i n the di rectio n o f the warp or we may wish the ,

cord to run across the cloth i n the direction o f the filling These .

two fabrics are made o n t w o di stinct prin ciple s and although the ,

variation in texture is due to alterations and modifica t ion s i n the

weave the foun dation o f both is th e pla i n weave I n the plai n
,
.

weave the threads are equal both warp and filling bei ng de flecte d
, ,

but i n a corded e ff ect o ne se t of threads is heavi e r than the other

, ,

which results i n the light thread bei ng ben t an d the h e avy thread
retain ing its strai gh tness .

I n s uch i n stances there is no space betwe e n the warp threads

,
4 2 T E X T IL E CA LC UL A T I ONS

fo r th e y may be i n a c tu a l o nta c t and th e n umb e r of threads per

c
,

inch determined by th e diamet e r of th e threads without any allow ,

ance for space between them Poplin s are a go o d illustratio n of

.
'

this con structio n I n this class of goods the cords run across the
.

cloth and i nstead of the warp threads havi ng a Space between the m
,

e qual to the diameter of the threads they must be set very closely ,

together and the filling th reads some distance apart otherwise the
, ,

clear cord will n ot be produced Care must also be taken that .

the filling threads are no t too far apart or the corded effect will be ,

destroyed When producing a cord parallel to the length o f t h e

.

cloth the procedu re i s exactly the reverse .

From these t w o examples we come to another conclusion i e ,

. .
,

o n the warp cord the warp is presen t i n larger quan titie s th an

,

the filli ng while on the filling cord the filli ng i s the larger quan ti ty
, ,
.

I t h as been stated that as the warp o r filli ng preponderates i t ,

must be incre ase d in qu a n tity and that which is least seen m ust
,

be de cr e a se d This rule ho lds good for nearly all makes o f cloth

. .

Tw i l l e d C l o t h s di ffer very much from plai n fabrics By the .

con struction o f the weave the th reads m us t be closer together for ,

the same counts o f warp and filling to produce a cloth o f equal ,

firm ness A plai n cloth is i n ter w oven at e v e ry th read and pick

.
r

whereas in a twill cloth the picks pass over a n u m ber o f threads

,

before they are in terwoven therefore weaves which produce long

, ,

floats require heavier yar n o r a clos er set to produce a n approximate

firmness o f texture The n umber o f threads and p ick s p e r inch
.

must be in creased i n proportion to the length o f the floats .

I n twilled cloths the warp o r fi lling may be made to pre

,

ponderate o n the face o f the fabric i n t w o ways as i n plai n cloth ,

by having more threads o f o ne set than of the other at the same ,

time dec reasi ng the diameter o f o ne set o f threads an d i ncreasing ,

the diameter o f the other or by weaving the desired set o f

,

threads o n the face .

To C h a ng e F ro m One W e a v e t o A no t h e r a nd R e t a in t h e S a m e
Pe rfe c t io n o f S t ruc t ure A S has been explained i n regard to the
.

plai n fabric when it was desired t o change from the plai n weave
,

t o a fancy twill o r diagonal it may occ ur that one O f these fancy

'

twills m ay be desired i n some other e ff ect and at the same time be ,

necessary that no alteration of the structure o f the fabric ta ke place .

44 T E X T IL E CA LCULA T I ONS

Thus 9 0 th reads and p icks per i nc h on a 6 har ness twi l l wil l g ive -

the same texture as 8 0 threads and picks p e r i nch o n a cassimere

twill with the same coun ts of yarn
I t i s required to change fro m the weave 2
.

u
p 1 down 1 up
2down ; to the weave 2up 1 do w n 1 up 1 down 1 up 4 down
, , , ,

Th e texture is 7 2 threads and 7 2

, , , , ,
.

picks per inch .

First weave has 6 threads and 4 i n t e rsections 1 0 uni ts .

Second w eave has 1 0 threads and 6 i ntersection s 1 6 uni ts .

7 2X 10 X 10
75 threads and picks per i nch .

6 X 16

I f i t is necessary to make the cloth lighter and maintai n the

str ucture of the heavier cloth and to use the same yarn a firmer , ,

weave m ust be used to reduce the n umbe r o f threads per inch .

Proceed i n the following man ner :

( )
a O btai n the nu m ber of thre ds and units i n kno w na weave .

b O btain the n umber o f threads and units i n the required

( )
weave .

( )
0 O btain the texture of known wea v e by finding threads

and picks per i nch .

R ul e 3 3 .
Multiply the kno w n texture by the threads of the
required weave and by the u nits o f the known wea ve and divi de ,

the product by the units o f the requi red weave m ultiplied by the
threads o f known wea ve .

I f a fabric wove n with the weave 3 up 1 down 1 up 3 down ,

’

, , ,

3 up 1 down , 1 up 3 down has 8 0 th reads per inch and we wish

to use the weave 2 up 1 do w n 1 up 2 down 2
, , , ,

up 1 down 1 up
2down h o w many threads will be required to main tain the exact
, , , , , , ,

struct ure of the original cloth ?

First weave has 1 6 threads and 8 i n tersections 2 4 units
Second weave has 1 2 2
.

th reads and 8 intersection s 0 units

-
.

r r ) x u n it s f k n w n w e a v e ( 2
Te x t u e (8 0 ) X t h e ad s re q u ire d w e av e ( 1 2 4) o o

Thus 7 2 threads per i nch will give the same texture o n the second
'

weave that i s produced by 80 threads per i nch o n the first weave ;

using same coun ts of yarn . .

I n all these examples it i s assumed that the warp and filli ng

are equal i n size quali ty and texture of the fabric and the fabric
, , ,
 T E X T IL E C A L C UL A T I O NS 45

is b uilt on the principl e of what is generally und e rstood as a

square cl o th.

Having determi ned that a truly balanced cloth i s where the

n umber of threads and picks are equal and of the same diameter ,

and hav ing determi ned what sett of reed will give the best result for
a given n umber o f yarn i t i s easy to find what sett will sui t any
,

other coun t of yarn to produce a similar result For exa m ple we .

,

will ta k e four threads of a plain cloth .

x I I x I
I 4 threads
units 4 .

x x 4 : 4 unitsintersection s
I I I I 7 .

8 un its .

I n a fixed rul e we assume that the proportion s of size of yarn

,

warp and filling and spaces are equal therefor e w e will take the
, ,

diameter o r size o f yarn as the unit of measuremen t Supposi n g .

o ur sample of plai n cloth to have 6 0 threads per inch and we wish ,

t o change the weave to the 4 harness cassimere twill

- .

xx I I 4threads 2 4 un its
2i ntersection s 2uni ts
.

I xx I .

6 units .

Four threads of plai n cloth equal 8 units while the same ,

n um ber of threads of the cassimere twill equals 6 units therefore

the twill weave will require a greater n umber O f threads to make
as perfect a fabric as the plai n weave and the i ncrease i s i n pro
,

portion as 6 i s to 8 Our example supposed the plai n cloth to have

.

6 0 threads per i n ch then t o have an equal fabric with the twill

,

weave the problem will be 6 8 6 0 :X o r 8 0 threads per inch

,
.

A s the cloth is built square what has been said o f the warp
,

applies equally to the filling The 4 harness cassimere twill in ter

.
-

weaves regularly the twill movi ng from end to end con secutively
,
.

Warp and filli ng flushes are e qual as i n the plain weave and the
, ,

quan ti ties of warp and filli ng on the face are equal

Take another exa mple — 5 harness twill 3 up and 2
.

- down ,
.

xxx I 5threads 2: 5 nits

I
i

2i ntersections 2units
.

I x x I .

7 un its .

Tw o repeats of the weave W Oll l G equal 14 u n i ts . Ten thread s

 '

46 TEXTI L E C A L C UL A TI ONS

of the plain weave would equal 2 0 un its therefore the 5 harness ,

-

twill requi res a g re a te r n u m be r of thre a ds

Th e i ncrease i s i n proportio n as 1 4 2
.

60 : X or 8 5 T51?
’

0 7

W e will take a fi nal example on the 6 harness com mon twill -

basis thre e threads up and three threads down the filling passing
, ,

over and under three th reads alternately therefore there will be o nl y

2 intersection s ; xxx I 0 0 0 I 6 thread s a nd 2
,

inte rs e c t io ns equals
8 units I n a plai n weave there wou l d be 6 threads and 6 i n t e r
section s equaling 1 2
.
,

uni ts s o this weave would requ i re an i ncre a se

as 8 1 2
, ,

z: 60 X which equals 90 threads .

I t m ust be thoroughly understood that the examples g i ven

herewith are al l supposed to be made from the same material same ,

kind o f yarn i n weigh t and diameter and the structure of th e fabrics ,

is exactly the sam e as far as t h e build i s concerned but as the 4 , ,

5 and 6 harness weav e s require m ore threads per i n ch t o form as

,
-

perfect a structure as the plai n weave the fabric when woven mus t ,

necessarily be heavier This is one o f the importan t considerations

.

when layi ng o ut a new fabric The weight per yard has t o be taken .

i nto accoun t therefore the size of yarn and weave are t w o very
,

importan t factors
I n order to make proper use of previous calculation s and t o ,

put them i n to practice i t i s necessary that the actual size o f threads

,

should be known that is the size coun ts and diameter to prod uce
, , , ,

a perfect str ucture Threads composed o f differen t substances vary

.

greatly i n proport ion to th e ir weight The S pecific gravity o f cot .

ton and linen i s about 1 %times the weight of water A ni mal fibers .
,

silk and wool have a Speci fi c gravity of 1 1 6 5 o r nearly

,
3 0

The d ia m e te rs of linen thread s are si m ilar to cotton Woolen .

ya rn s presen t a thicker thread for the same weight Spun silk has .

about the same dia meter as cotton .

We must no w consider the diamete r o f yarns Threads vary .

as t o the square root o f their coun ts A fter finding the diameter .

o f a thread find h o w many threads will lie S ide by side i n o ne i n ch

,
.

For any cou nts of yarn find the number o f yards per pound and
,

extract the square root The square root of n umber 1 cotton wo uld
.

be 1 8 4 0 :2
/
This i s without any allowance for shri nk ,

a e and without any allowance for space

g ,
.
 TE X TI L E C A L C U L ATI ONS 47

To change a plain w e ave i n to a fancy twill or

R ul e 3 4 .

dia go nal a nd r e tai n the same perfecti o n of s t ructure :

Obtai n the number of threads in required weav e .

b
( ) O btain the n umber of i ntersection s i n requir e d w e ave .

()
c A dd threads and i ntersections together and call the m u ni ts .

Obtai n th e units there would be i n t h e nu m b e r of

threads of the plain weave that are occupied by the requi re d
weave .

Example I f a plain fabric has 8 0 threads per i nch what

2
.
,

number of th reads will it r e quire for the weave 3 u 3 d o wn

p , ,

up 1 dow n ?
,

Mul tipl y th e u nits of the kno w n weave by th e threads per

i nch a nd divide by the un its of the required weave
,
.

E x planation I n two pattern s of the above weave there w o uld

be 1 8 threads and 8 i ntersection s 2: 2
.
,

6 un its a plai n weave on 1 8 ,

threads would have 1 8 in tersection s 36 units

2
.

6 36 80 :X ‘
110 9 7
63
.

Thus 1 1 0 threads will be required to prod uce a fabric o n the re

quired weave which is equal i n t e xtu re to 80 threads on a plain
,

weave ; th e same yarn being used i n each case .

D ISS EC I NG T A ND A NA LY"I NG .

I n the man ufacture of te x til e fabrics there are at least two ,

importan t divisions of a desig ne r s work : de sig ning ( b) d is

‘ ’

se c ti n
g an d a na l
y i n
z
g .

g
De s i nin g consists i nbuilding of a fabric from d e sign s
th e ,

more o r less orig in al a nd th e weave s textur e of the fabr i c a nd

, , ,

colors used in i ts manufacture are li m ited only by the looms and

‘

yarn s under the designer s control ’

.

Dis s e c t ing a nd A na l y z ing differs widely from d e si g n i ng a nd

is the most i m portant work i n a design Oflic e I n this case the .

designer m ust reproduce o r i mitate a fabrl c ; which is a di fficult

problem if n ot worked in the ri ght way A thorough knowledge .

of d e signing in all i ts branch e s and a theory of the many calcula ,

tion s necessary together with the most e x pedien t m an ner i n which

,

the theory may be put in to practical use are essential for a s uc

c e s s f ul analysis .

Many de s igne rs pe rfo rm th e ir work without a ny special m e t h

 48 T EXTI L E CA L CULA TI O NS

o d, which caus e s great i ncon ve nience to them selves and results i n ,

a useless waste of time and material A methodical designer can .

per form his work i n a comparatively Short time with far better re
s ul t s savi ng t h e manufacturer con siderable time and expen se
,
The .

firs t principl e of a designer should be m e th o d for method leads to ,

economy which i s one of the foundations of a mill man s success

,
-
’
.

TOO much stress can not be la id upon thi s poin t and i f the begin ,

ner is methodical and con tinues so dissecting and analyzing will ,

prove comparatively easy to h im .

When analyzin g a fabric many i mportan t facts must be c o n ,

s ide re d e s c c ial l when it i s desi red to reproduce the fabric The

p , y .

nature o f the fiber from which the yarn i s sp un the quality and ,

twist o f the yarn colors and weaves use d t o produce the desired
, ,
.

e ff ect and the character of the finishing processes should all be

,

carefully studied i n order that the reproduction may be perfect i n

,

every detail .

The firs t thi ng to determine i s the c l a ss a nd n a ture of th e

fa bric Double triple and backed cl o ths may be easily determi ned
.
, ,

by a close in spection o f the sample o ne Side usually bei ng woven ,

with coarser yarn than the other Heavily napped fabrics should .

firs t be singed care being taken to singe th e n ap without i n juring

,

the yarn i n any way ; while sin gle cloths need b ut a glance to
classify them as such .

The next step i s to decide upon the face and the back o f the
fabric Double and triple cloths us ually are woven with a heavier
.

yarn o n the ba ck to add weight and s trength to the material This .

”
is especially tr ue of the s o called “
tw o and o ne sys tem F re
- .

”
quen tly one and o ne cloths are woven with yar n of equal coun ts
“
,

and the face i s determi ned only by o ne or m ore o f the several tests
described later The co nditions which apply to do uble cloths also
.

apply to backed cloths .

Worsted dre ss goods and S i milar fabri cs often prove confus

ing but i n many cases a c l o se e xam inat io n will Show that o ne side
,
‘

”
i s smoother to the touch than the other and the draw i s very “
,

n oticeable By passing the fingers one way of the cloth a smoo th

.

”
feeli ng i s n oticeable and this is termed the draw “
Passing the .

fingers the other way of the cloth a S light resistance i s felt which ,
”
i s termed the bite “
These condition s are caused by shearing
.
,
 T E X T IL E CALCULA T I ONS 49

and are undoubtedly th e best test for t h e determinati o n o f face

and back Union goods are usually woven with the animal fib re s
.

more prominen t o n the fa ce .

The next thing to consider is the scheme of war p and filli n g ,

and the texture of the fabric and is practically th e first ste p in

,

dissecti ng .

Every woven fabric i s composed of two sets of threads or y ar ns .

Those run n ing lengt h wi se in the fabric or i n the direction of t h e

warp are commonly termed threads while those run ni ng across t h e ,

fabric o r i n the direction o f the filling or weft are termed th e picks

, ,
.

Fro m no w o n the terms threads and picks will be used to denote

,

warp and filling respectively .

We are now con fronted by the problem o f determi ning which

is warp an d which i s filling I f the Sample con tain s a portion of
.

the selvedge there i s n o difficulty for the selvedge alwa y s run s i n the
,

di rection o f the warp I f however the sample is cut so that n o

.
, ,

portion o f the selvedge is presen t the warp may be determi ned by

any o f the followi ng tests :
( )
a I f the yarn i s double and twisted o ne w a
y and single the
other th e double and t wisted yarn will i ndicate th e warp
,
.

b
( ) I f the yarn is harder twisted o ne way than the other t h e ,

yarn with the harder twist is the war p .

()
c I f o ne set of yarn is finer than the other i t is safe t o say ,

that the finer yarn forms the warp Usuall y yarn us e d for warp .

is finer than that used for filling .

d
( ) I f the yarn o ne way appears straight a nd regular and ,

the other way loose rough and di splaced or n ot strictly regular

, , , ,

the straight yarn is assumed to be the warp .

()
e R eed marks o f any ki nd will Show which is the warp .

I f the yarn o ne way i s Single or double cotton and the ,

other way i s Single woolen the cotton i s i n variably the warp

,
.

(g) I f the yarn o ne way is starched or sized and the other ,

i s no t the starched yarn i s the warp Warps are sized or starched

,
.

to add stren gth o r we igh t to the yarn .

h
( ) The test f o r nap has been previously stated and is valu

able to denote the warp for the nap lies i n the di rection of the war p
,
.

i
() Stripes are generally formed by the warp .

A fabric m ay be woven with the yarn righ t twist o ne way

 T EX T IL E CA LC ULA T I ONS
‘

an d y a rn l e f t t w is t t h e o t h e r w y Th f r m r is i nvari a bl y th e
a . e o e

warp .

E x cepti o n s to th e s e t e sts s e ldom o ccur I n many fabrics .

,

varying c o ndition s prevail but th e r e aso ns for such variation s a r

, e

so pronounced esp e cially w i t h y a r n that l ittl e e x ami nati o n is re

, ,

qui re d to disti nguish the warp f ro m the filli ng .

W arp yarn is usually s t ro ng e r a nd fi ne r than filli ng yarn ,

with a hard e r twist a nd mad e f ro m t h e b e st and stro ngest mat e rial

,

o n hand .

T e x t ure Th e d e nsity o f a fabric i s co ntrolled by the t e x ture

.
,

a nd i ts requir e d w e igh t a nd thickness The sample Should be cut .

to a certai n size usually 1 i nch s quare a nd e ach thread drawn out

, ,

of t h e fabric separately and laid asid e in its proper order Each .

thread Should be e xamin e d in turn a nd the tw is t n a tu r e and , , ,

c o l o r d e term i ne d as i t is drawn out o f t h e sample This will sav e .

a re p e titi o n of the work later o n W hen o nly a small sampl e is .

available the te x ture an d col o r s ch e m e must n e c e ssaril y be d e ter

m i ned a t the same tim e .

Having drawn out e ach set o f yar n warp and filli ng the tex , , ,

tur e may be ascertained by cou nt ing th e n u m b e r of thr e ads i n e ach

lot I f i n t h e sa m ple on ha nd th e r e are 56 threads in the warp
.

a nd 4 8 thr e ads i n the filli ng t h e t e xture will be 5 6 threads and 4 8

,

picks per i nch I t is n ot always con venien t to c ut t h e sample 1

.

i nch square and the thr e ads and picks per i nch may be d e termined
,

by accurately m easuri ng the length a nd width of th e sample and ,

dividi ng the picks an d threads respectively by thes e meas urements .

A sampl e may be g i nch long and 1 %i n ches wide and con tai n 3 6
-

and 8 4 th reads r e spective l y The calculation s would be .

36 i 4 8 picks per i nch .

84 1% 5 6 threads p e r inch
z .

N OTE —Th i i n t
. l i bl
s s m th d
o an d i f p s ib l
re a e h ul d be e o a ,
o s e ,
s o

av o i d e d .

A s the threads are drawn out care should b e taken to find ,

the n umber of each variety and color of yarn and i n their exact ,

orde r W h e n a repeat has been fou nd by addi ng t h e n u m ber of

.

threads of e ach color a nd varie ty the th reads i n a p attern are ,

determi ne d Suppos e the threads in a sample are as fol lows :

.
5 2 T EXT I L E C A L C UL A TI O NS

di fficulty , b e caus e e ve ry cr o ssing o f t h e thre ads warp and filling , ,

c o uld be di stinctly seen and mark e d .

Of course there are gradations fro m the most o pe nly con structed
'

to th e fine s t setted fabrics and from th e least to the most heavily

,

felted cloths ; still the principle of dissection i s the same i n all .

There are other particulars to be obtai ned from a sampl e ,

besid e s the weave o r figure and upon which the figure depends for
,

i ts appearance These are the relative fineness of the warp and

.

filling and the n umb e r of threads per i nch and also the amoun t
, ,

and ki nd of finish to be give n to the fabric to gai n solidity and

handl e as well as effect We say not h ing here of the materials
,
.

of which the threads are comp osed .

F ig 5. .

Now suppos e a sample of fi nished cloth exactly 1 i nch square

,

i s to be analyzed The first procedure is to weigh i t i n very fine

.

( grai n ) scales and record

,
the weight A ssum ing that the weight .

o f o ne square i nch i s 5 grain s and that the finished cloth i s 5 6

i nches wide we proceed to fi n d the weigh t of o ne yard of cloth

,
.

R ul e 3 5 To find the weigh t o f 1 yard of cloth weight o f

.
,

1 square inch and width being known Multiply the grain s per i nch .

by the given width o f cloth X 3 6 and divide by grai n s The

,
.

an swer will be weight i n ounces per yard .

5 X 5 6 X 36
ozs per yard
. .
 T E X T IL E CALCULA T I ONS 53

Or th e consta nt found by dividing by 36 may be us e d as

follows :
5 X 56 ozs per yard
. .

NOTE . Th e W e i h t
- g o f w o ve n f ab ric s is us ual l y ex p re s s e d in o u nc e s , a nd

as th e re a re g rains in o ne p o und IA v o irdup o is , 16 g ra ins

pe r o unc e .

To find the weight of one yard of cloth when the

R ul e 3 6 .

weight o f a ny n umber of square i nches is known ; weight i n g rains

of sample X wid t h X l e ngth divided by s quar e i nches X ,

grai n s .

A ssuming that a sample which con tain s 4 square inches weighs

2
0 grain s and the cloth i s 5 6 inches wi de the process would be as

follows :
2
0 X 56 X 36
o unces per yard
4 X
.

The above explains the general p r1 nc 1 pl e s which underlie the

(
method o f obtaini ng the weight per yard o f any fabric woolen , ,

worsted cotton linen o r silk o f any given width and should be

, , , , ,

thoroughly understood by all w h o are employed i n the designing ’

' ’
room weav e rooms o r i n the superin tenden t s o r manager s o ffice
, ,
’

This simple formula wi th explanation s will apply to all fabrics .

"
G rain s width X 3 6
54 TE X T IL E CA LCUL A T I ONS

PI C K I NG =0 UT .

( ) a Tri m the edges of t h e sample p e rfe ctly squar e with the

warp and filling threads ( See Fig . .

b
( ) U n ravel by taking
,
out about one quarter of an i nch-
o f
warp threads from the left Side of the sample and about one quarter -

o f an i nch of filling threads from t h e bottom part o f the Sample .

Se e Figs 6 and
( .

( )
0 Tak e the sam p l e i n the l e ft hand b e tw e en t h e finger and

the thumb placi ng t h e warp thre ads i n a v e rtical posi tio n that is
, , ,

the first thread of w e ave o n th e l e ft and firs t pick of weave nearest

your body .

F ig . 7 .

A piece of design paper m ust be at ha nd to mark down the

result of the pick out as shown i n the diagrams With a small
-
,
.

poi nted instrumen t say a n eedle commence at the l ef t h a nd bo t

, ,

to m c o r ne r and lift the first thread away from the body o f the cloth
s o that the filling crossi ng can be seen .

N o w notice wh ich filling threads t his fi s t thread is over and r

und e r and mark o n the design paper commencing at the left hand
, (
bottom corner ) those picks which are down ; th e up picks of course , ,

w ill be re pr e se nt e d by the bl an k s 0 r v ac an t s quares Fo r inst ance .

,
 T E XT I L E CAL C U LA T I ON S 55

th e first war p t h re ad i s o ve r t h e fi rs t a nd s e c o nd p icks u nd e r the ,

thi rd pick , o ve r the fourth pick u nd e r t h e fif th p ick a nd sixth ,

pick over the seve n th pick a nd und e r t h e e igh th pick :that is

, , ,

over t w o u nder one over o ne u nder t w o over o ne a nd under one

, , , , ,

The n in th and ten th are like th e first a nd sec o nd t h e eleve nth is ,

lik e the third a nd so o n ; so t h e first eight picks

represen t o ne r e p e at of the w e av e on the first
threa d and i s represen t e d on t h e d e sig n pa p er by
,

the black fill e d ih squares on thread A Fig 8 -

,
. .

b
No w re m ove the first thr e ad lift t h e s e cond ,
U
P
N thread to the front and proceed as b e for e The ,
.

second th read is ove r the first 3 picks under 4 ,

Fig 8 over 4 and so on as Shown at the thread marked
B Each succeedi ng thread is treated in the same ma nne r until
.

th e weav e or design r e p e ats .

When the pattern i s f o u nd to b e r e peati ng i n e ith e r directio n ,

the pick out need n ot be co nti n u e d y e t f o r safe ty i t is advisable

-
,

t o go far enough both ways a nd then fill in the d e sign at the repeats

and disregard the other cross e s This d e sign i s c o m .

B H
p l e t e o n 8 th read s and 8 picks as s hown at F i
g 9
,
. .
A CD E FG

Fig 9 also shows the dra w i ng in draft a nd

.
-

‘ ‘
harness chain The design is r e duced to four b ar 3
.
.

I
nesses to work i t eas 1 ly Th e l e tters above the
. mu ES GN . D I

m
H A BC D E FG
drawi ng in draft correspo nd wi th t h ose in Fig 8
- .
4

a nd den ote the order of the thr e ads a nd the ord e r of %

3
their drawing 1 n upo n the harness and th e figur e s ‘ ‘
R ffiIé j f
-
, D
,
RA FT D
u nd e r the draft the n umber of t h e har ne s s u p o n
w hich each thread must be draw n acc o rdi ng to the

design while those on the left ha nd Side Show the

,
gg
“ NESS M N
2.
,
m
8 7 6 5 4 3

n umber of harnesses employed The numbers on .

AR

Fig 9
t h e left of the reduced chain sh o w the conden satio n
‘ ‘

o f the desi n and draf t Fig 1 0 shows the in terw e aving o f the
g . .

threads .

,
How e ver in tricate t h e sam p l e o r desi g n may b e i n its woven
construction this method will simplify it Sometimes th e design
,
.

will n ot repeat on so small a num ber as 8 X 8 and if the sample ,

1 8 n ot large en ough t o obtai n one half repeat a lar er sample must

g
-
,

be o btai ned i f possible unless i t i s seen that the design run s i n

,
56 T EX T I L E CALCUL A T I ONS

r e gula r o rde r w h e n a f w thr e ads tak e n out are sufficien t t o show

,
e

the principl e of c o nstruc t i o n with o ut going further .

W ith co nsta nt practic e i n t h e analysis or picking out o f -

samples th e charact e r of the figure or weave may be ascertained

,

alm o s t as w e ll as in i ts production in the loom as i n both cases ,

one b e com e s familiar wi th signs sinkers and risers and th e i r effects , , .

The prec e ding re m arks have had reference to comparat ive ly

e asy and simple t e x tur e s f o r analysis such as worsted or cotton ,

goods but with the more heavily felted ,

wool e n f ab ric s a little preparation is ne c e s

sary before proc e eding with the above meth
od A n y fibers which obstruct the clearness
.

o f t h e design a nd preven t the i nterweavin g

of the threads fro m being clearly seen m ust

be removed by singein g o r shavi ng th e s u r
’ ‘
A e c o e r s H face ; care b e ing tak e n that the threads are
Fig 1 0 not destroyed or damaged s o that they can ,

no t b e r e mov e d or followed i n their reg ular course

, .

Pa t t e rn H avi ng found the con struction o f the w e ave s o far

.
,

as figure or design is concerned the next procedure i s t o n ote the ,

n umber o f threads whi ch complete the pat tern i n each direction .

R eferring to Fig 1 1 the analysi s of which i s given o n the

.
,

analysis Sheet i t will be noticed that the scheme or pattern o f

warp is 2 threads of light 1 thread of dark 2
,

threads o f light and

2threads of d ark or
, , ,

2 2
,

Ligh t
Dark 1 3 3
7 threads i n pattern o r scheme of warp
2
.
,

The pattern or sch e m e of the filling is 3 picks of dark and

picks o f light o r ,

Dark 3 3
Lig h t 2 2 I

5 picks i n pattern or scheme of filling ,

.

R e ferri n g agai n to the analysis Sheet f o r data the analysis is

as follows :
1 . Weight o f 1 ya rd give n wi dth ,
.

NOTE —P tt n f t
a l nl y d
er ig n fig u f t w v
re e rs o co o r o es or re re e rs o ea e
m p l t h w p i d k nd t h fil l ing l ig h t w h i h i t m d
.
,

I n th fi te rs e xa e e ar s ar a e ,
c s er e
so l id l
c o o rs P tt n i t h
. a ng m e nt
er f l th y l i
s id b y id in
e a rra e o c o o rs as e e s e s e

t h e w a rp a nd fil l ing .
 T E X T IL E CALCU L A T I ON S 57

SA MPL E CLOTH ANA LYS I S .

The a nalysis or diss e cti o n of a sample o f cloth c o nsists in ob

taini ng the followi ng particulars :
F a b ri c W o rs te d D ress G o o ds ( Se e F ig . 1 1)

D at a One s q u a re i nc h w eig hs 1 . 7 g r a i ns

T h re a d s p e r i nc h ( fi ni sh e d cl o th ) 56 . g ra ins

P ic k s p e r i nc h ( fi ni sh e d c l o t h ) 50 .
g r a i ns

W id t h wi t h in s e l v ed g e s fi
( ni s h e d ) 3 6 i nc h es

R e m a rk s . . 5 6 th re a d s p er i nc h e q u a l 5 6 i nc h es of w o rs te d y a rn

50 p ic k s p e r i nc h e q u a l 5 0 i nc h es o f w or s t e d y a rn

1 . W e ig h t o f o ne ya rd i ns id e se l v e dg e s X 3 6 X 36 ) 2 o zs .
p er yd .

3 . D ra wing in d f t - ra and c h a i n S e e F ig 1 . 2
4 . S y ste m or d re s s i ng o f w a rp ,

. L ig h t 2 2 4
D a rk 1 22 '

5 Sy s t e m o r s ch e m e o f fi l l ing
D a rk .

L ig h t
0

6 . T h re a d s i n w p ar 36
"
X 56 2
016 e nd s

7 . Th re a d in w
s pp ar a t t e rn 7

8 . P at t e r n in w
s p ar

10 . Si z e ( c o unt s o r ru n ) o f w ar p iu fini sh e d cl o t h

(5 6 X 7 000 ) X 560 X 3 6 ) w o rs t e d c o u nts

‘

11 . Si z e ( c o unt s o r run ) o f fi l l ing in fini sh e d cl o th . ,

(5 0 X 7 0 00 ) X 5 60 X 3 6 ) w o rs te d c o u nts

N o te . Th e se C
o u nts re p rese nt th e y a r n j u s t as i t l i es i n th e s amp le

I t is no t s t re tc h e d .

11 . W e ig h t o f w py ar a rn in o ne ya rd o f fini sh e d cl o t h

X 4

x 3 864 (2
016 x 16) X 5 60 ) o zs .

2
.

016

1 2W . e ig h t o f fil l ing y ar n in o ne y a rd Of fi ni s h e d c l o t h
3 6 X 50 ( 1 8 00 x 1 6) X 5 60 ) o zs

o zs .
p er y a rd
58 T E XT I L E CA LCULA T I ON S
’

G rai ns X wid th X 36
5 03 o zs we i h
v

g t p er yard
4 37 5
. .

2and 3 Pick out dra w ing in draft and chai n ( s e e Fig

.
-
, .

4 System or pattern of warp accordin g as the colors lie side

.

by sid e in the fabric ( Se e Page .

5 System or pattern of filling according as the colors lie

.
,

si de by side i n t h e fabric (Se e Page .

6 Threads i n warp W idth ( 36 ) X threads per i nch ( 5 6)

. .

F ig . 11 .

7 See No 4 for warp a nd N o 5 f o r filling

. . . .

8 Pattern s i n warp Threads i n warp

. t h reads
.

i n pa ttern 2 p attern s

9 Size ( coun ts or run ) of warp i n fin ish e d cloth

.

N G TE —S ul f th v i u w y
ee r es f b t ining
or unt f
e m m ll ar o s a s o o a co s ro s a

q uantit ie s o r s h o rt g
l e n th s o f y a rn.

10 Size ( coun ts or run ) of filling i n fini shed cloth

.

11 W e igh t of warp yarn in one yard of fin ished cloth Width

. .

of goods multiplied by th read s o f warp per i n ch ( 5 6 ) give s

th e total n umber o f yards of warp yarn i n on e yard of goods or ,
60 T EXT I L E C A LCU L A T I ONS

This i s a very i mportant point i n the analysis o f any

fabric I t must be remembered that a y a rd f y a r n w i l l n o t
. o
'

w e a ve a y a rd of c l o th so cloth is always shorter than the ori inal

, g
leng t h of warp from which i t was woven which is due to the take ,

up by its being ben t around the filling .

The c l o th is a l w a y s na rro w er th a n the w idth th e w a rp w a s

s re a d i n t h e r e e d previous to being woven which i s due to the
p ,

filling pulling i n the edges o f the cloth and to the filling bending
aroun d the warp threads I t is a well known fact that cloth from
.
-
,

t w o looms working Side by side may vary i n width and length ,

and each loom worki ng apparen tly under same condition s .

The material of which yarn i s made and the man ner i n which
i t is spun dressed and man ipulated in the loom has m uch to do
, , ,

with the take up in the weaving and fin ishing processes The

-
.

finer the q uality o f the filli ng and the softer it i s spun as compared ,

with the warp the greater take up there will be i n the width I n
,
- .

creased ten sion o n the warp in creases the length o f the cloth and ,

makes the width narrower up to a certai n limi t I f the filling i s

,
.

hard twisted and of a coarse n ature o r coarser than the warp the , ,

cloth will n ot take up m uch i n the width .

The warp f o r plai n s tripes and sateen stripes should no t be

placed o n the same beam nor reeded i n the same man ner as the ,

plai n weave will take up much faster than the satee nportion Care .

should be taken in reedin g weaves o f variable i n tersection s .

The difference i n temperature weather system o f Sizi ng k i nd , , ,

o f loo m used ten sion of warp ten sion o f filling also n umber o f
.
, ,

reed and picks per in ch as compared with each other will aff ect the
a m oun t o f take up - .

The yarn s i n weaves O f the rib and cord type where three , ,
'
four o r more threads o r pic k s work together act like heavy yarn s
, ,

and tend to retai n a s traight line the finer yarn s bendi ng around ,

them con sequen tly the fi ne yarn s have the greater ta k e up

,
- .

R ules may be given which will give good results and which
have been proved t o be practical to some exten t for fi ndi ng the , ,

various i tems necessary for the reproduction o f a fabric yet they ,

are only approximately so the best results bei ng obtai ned by ex

,

e rie nc e and using the records o f oth e r fabrics

p .

N OTE —T k up w il l b e furth e r e p l aine d unde r th e h e ading Tak e up

. a e -
x -

”
and Sh rink ag e .
 T EXT IL E C AL C UL A T I ONS 61

S ETTS A ND R EED S .

H aving found the weave draft chain and counts of yarn as

, ,

they appear i n the finished fabric the next i mportan t step is to ,

”
find the sett i n loom which i ncludes reed den ts per i nch
“
, , ,

threads per den t appro x i m ate coun ts of the warp and fillin g y a r ns
,

previous to being woven and finally the picks per i nch in loom
,
.

The den sity of the warp threads i n the process of weavi ng and
subsequen tly i n the woven fabric is repres e n t e d by the r e lat iv e
,

n umber of heddles o n the harness Shafts and the den ts i n the reed ,

distributed over a fixed un it of space which will i nclud e th e num ,

ber of warp threads passed through each den t i n th e reed .

The system o f numbering reeds now almost un iversal i n all

the textile ind ustries (perhaps with the exception of Silk) i s known
as the thr e a ds p e r i nch syste m The number of dents per i nch
“
.

in the reed with two threads i n each de nt is the basis o f the sett .

I f the re ed has 4 0 d e nts per inch i t i s called a 4 0 s reed or 80 s sett ’ ’

.

4 0 reed X 2 threads 2 8 0 threads per i nch .

”
Obvi o usly the,
“
den ts per in ch is the Si mpl e st basi s f o r a
sett system and should be adopted wh e re English measurem e nts
are used .

For all re e d calculation s i n this w o rk o ne in ch i s given as the ,

unit o f measurem e n t and the n umber o f warp thr e ads contai ned
,

i n that space forms the basis o f the sett W hen the threads per
,
.

i nch are o f an equal number the reed f o r the divi sion s is easily
,

found that i s for ordinary requiremen ts For in stance if 4 0

threads per i nch are required a 2 0 s reed 2
,
.
,

l 0 s reed 4 or 8 s reed
’ ’ ’

5 may be employed ; that is a reed having 2

, , ,

0 den ts 1 0 den ts o r
5 den ts per inch e ach den t co ntain ing 2
, , ,

,
4 o r 5 threads respecti v e ly
, ,

By thi s method the number o f threads for the whole warp is

easily ascertained as follows :A warp i s required to be 7 0 i nches
wide with 4 0 threads per inch then 7 0 X 4 0
'

, ,
threads are
required fo r the warp .

A cloth h as t o be woven i n a l 00 s sett 4 threads i n each ’

,

den t Ho w many den ts per i nch must the reed con tai n
.

Sett threads in dent R eed

2
.

1 00 4 5

A c otton fabric is woven 3 threads i n a den t ,

4 2inches wide , and
62 TE X T I L E C A LCULA T I O NS

warp con tain s threads W hat is t h e sett and what is the reed
.

Warp threads width 4

( )2 sett 6
( )0
Sett 6 0 threads re ed (2
( ) 0 )
A reed contai ns dents i n 3 3 inches 2threads i n each den t ,
.

What i s the reed ?

I nches
Den ts
X Th reads ( 2
2 0 reed .

G i ven 1 2 0 threads per i nch to be laid 7 2 i nches wide i n loom

H o w ma ny threads i n warp ? Threads per inch ( 1 2
.
,

0 ) X width
7
( ) 2 2 threads in warp

Une v e nl y Re e de d Fa b ric s The requiremen ts o f desig n a nd

.

the con struction o f the cloth are so various as t o sizes o f yarn and ,

the n umber of threads per i nch employed i n the warp that the ,

n umber o f den ts per i nch i n the reed i s dependen t upon i t But .

the number o f threads 1 11 each division o f the reed i s no t al w ays

u niform that is not always the same number i n each den t through
, ,

out the whole width o f the w arp thi s dependi ng upon the pattern
,

t o be woven For example in the production o f a fancy sateen

stripe while 2
.
,

threads i n each den t may be required s ay fo r gd nch

_ ,

space the following den ts may require 3 4 5 o r 6 th read s i n

them and then repeat with 2
, , , ,

s an d SO o n through the width o f the

’
,

reed Thi s will show that no hard and fast rule can be laid down
.

wh ich will cover eve ry requirement .

Example A worsted stripe i s made i n which the warp c o n

.

tain s threads ; i t i s laid 4 0 in ches wide i n the reed and reeded ,

as g i ven below Fi nd the average n umber of threads pe r inch

.
,

and the number o f reed

2
.

Pattern 1 den t 4 threads black 4 . 8 0 patt e rn s .

1 4 whit e 80 X 6 4 8 0 d e n ts
12
. .

1 6 black 4 80 40 . reed .

40 4 8 average
"
1 4 whi te
12
. .

1 4 black 48 4 average
2
.

1 whi te in e ach den t

2
. .

6 den ts 4 i n pattern .

R ul e 3 7 To find average threads per den t and reed for cloth

.
, ,

numb e r of threads per dent varyi ng First find th e n um be r o f

.

th re ads i n one patter n and the n um ber o f den ts which they occupy ,
 T EXTI L E C ALC ULA T I ONS 63

th e n divid e th e total n u m b e r of threads in th e warp by the

number of threads i n the pattern ( 2 4 ) which g ive s the num b e r of

p atterns i n the warp this multipli e d by the d e n ts i n a pat

tern ( 6 ) gives the total n umber o f dents r e quire d to re e d the war p

‘

( i n side selvedges ) The . nu m be r of d e nts

( 4 8 0 ) divided by t h e

width of the cloth (4 0) gives th e n umber of r e ed Dividi ng

t h e threads i n the warp by the width of the clo t h ( 4 0) gives
the ave rage threads per i nch a nd di viding this by the re e d

( ) 1 2 gives the average threads in each den t Di vidi ng the n um .

ber of threads i n a pattern by the dents i n a pattern will

also give th e averag e number of thre ads i n e ach den t .

A fabric i s made with threads i n the warp ; s e t 4 0 i nches

wid e i n t h e reed and is reeded as give n below Fi nd the number
,
.

o f den ts e r i nch i n the reed

p .

3 0 threads 2 i n a den t 1 5 den ts

2 0 c c 1 c c c c c c c c
1 2 cc 2 cc cc cc 6 cc
Miss den t
o ne 0 1
12 threads 2 6
Miss o ne den t 0 1
12 t hreads 2 6
20 c c 1 c c c c c c c c
30 c 2 c c.c c c c 15 c c
1 3 6 threads i n 1 pattern 90 den ts i n 1 pattern
.

2
.

1 36 4 pat t ern s
2
.

4 X 90 2 de nts .

40 5 4 reed .

A cott o n sateen stripe fabric has threads i n t h e warp and

re ed e d i n a 4 0 s re ed a s gi ven belo w W hat is the width i n reed ?
’
.

2threads
2 whi t e
6
6 cc
1t blu e
.

c c pink "
I
2n den t
l .

6 bl ue J
1 2 whit e
1 2 l t blue
2
-
.

1 straw 6 i n dent
2
.

1 blue
1 2 white
64 T E XTI L E C A L C UL A TI ON S

4 pin k
4 blue
4 pi n k 2i n de n t .

4 blu e
4 pi n k .

1 2 wh ite
1 2 l t blue
2
.

1 straw 6 i n den t
2
.

1 b l ue
1 2 white
6 lt . bl ue
6
6
pin k
blue
2 l n den t .

2
2 whi t e J
T A K E=UP A ND S HR IN K A G E .

C o tto n Cl
I n cotto n cloth the take up depends chie fly
oth .
,
-

upon the character of the weave and quali ty and counts of yarn ,
”
used The term sley i s used to denote the n umber of threads
.
“

per in ch in the cloth .

Suppose we have analyz ed a cotto n sample and there are 1 00 ,

threads per inch or 1 00 sley Find the n umber o f dents per i n ch

i n the reed to give this texture us ing 2
.
,

t hreads i n 1 den t ,
.

Deduct 1 from the given sley and divide by

1 00 1 : 99 99 z reed
. .

A s an illustration of h o w cotton cloths will vary in the amoun t

of take up according to the constructi on i n weavi ng the following
-
,

examples are given :

1 . A fabric made with 48 s warp and 2 —1 5 s filli ng 3 4 i n ches
’ ’
,

in reed 8 8 threads per i n ch 5 0 picks per i nch 5 harness sateen

, , ,

weave gives 3 3 i nches of cloth Sh o w m g a take up of about

,
.
-

1 %per cen t 34 5 5 2 0148 o r

2 4 8 s warp and 1 5 s filling 3 3 i nches i n loom 6 4 threads

. . . . .

’ ’
,
. .

by 4 0 picks , 5 ha m ess
_
4
weave gives ,
2i n ches 3 of cloth ,

1
s h owi ng a take up of 3 %per cen t or 3 3
- 32 32 1 1
03 1 2
.

—
1
5 or 3 8 per cen t
2—2
. .

6 s warp and 4 8 s fillin g 3 1 %i nches i n loom 48

’
3
’

th reads by 1 2
. . .

8 picks 6 harness broken twill filling face gives

.
-
, ,
 T E X TI L E C A L C UL A TION S 65

2
8 i nches of cloth Sh wi ng a take up of
o per cen t 3 1 81
-

2 2
. .

8 8 1 1 1 6 or per c e n t
. .

These examples could be multiplied showing the various take ,

ups by using weaves of various i n tersectio ns and yar ns o f differen t

coun ts also by varyi ng the numb e r o f threads pe r i n ch
,
.

The followi ng rules are on a basi s of 5 per cen t and are given ,

as approxi mately correct .

R ul e 3 8 Fo r cotton cloth
. To find the number o f den ts
.

”
per inch i n reed to produce a given sley “
.

Deduct 1 from the give n sley and divid e by o ne o f th e fol

lowin g n umbers :
Fo r 1 t h read i n den t divi de b y
2 threads “

cc 3 cc cc c c c c 31 5 cc

cc 4 cc cc cc cc cc
R ul e 3 9 To fin d sley of cloth wov e n with a r e e d the n um
.

ber of dents per inch bei ng given .

Multi p ly the n u m ber o f den ts per i nc h by o ne of the fol ~

lowing numb e rs and add 1 :

For 1 thread i n d e n t multiply by
2 c c c c c c c c
cc 3 cc cc cc cc cc
c c 4: c c cc cc cc cc

E x amples Find the num b e r of d e nts pe r i nch in reed to g ive

a 12 12
.
,

0 sl e y drawi ng 4 threads i n each den t 0 1 119 119

2 2
. .

8 %den ts per inch .

W hat sley cl o th would be woven with a reed contai n ing 5 0

dents per i nch with 3 t hreads i n each d e n t ? 5 0 den ts
,

1 sley cloth o r threads per i nch ,

.

R ul e 4 0 To find sley reed to produce unequally reed e d pat

.

tern s such as lenos cords dimities etc Multiply the threads in

, , ,
.

the pattern by pattern s per i nch which will give the average sley :
,

then multiply the average s l ey by the number of den ts p e r patter n

and by 2and divide by the number o f thre ads p e r pattern
I n a sample of cloth the patter n is found to be reeded 2
.
,

,
4 4 , , ,

4 and there are 9 pattern s per i nch W hat reed will produce i t ?
2 4 4 l 4 1 4 threads i n p atter n 1 4 X 9 1 2
.
,

~ 6 .

average sley .
 :
66 T E XTWL E C A LC UL AT HDG S

X
2sl y reed
0
1J 0
3 X
1
’

7 e .

1
7 2 2
actual r e ed —
e 36 .

W hen fi g uring c o tt o n fabrics allowan ces must be m ad e f o r ,

uan tity o f siz e starch a nd other substanc e s us e d

q , , .

W o rs t e d C l o t h I n the anal y sis a nd co nstructi o n o f w o rst e d

.

fabrics that i s th o s e c o mpos e d of w o rsted Wa rp and w o rst e d filli ng

, , ,

the same principl e s a re to be observ e d as in c o tt o n cl o ths .

Piece dyed wo rst e d goods usually gai n as much i n weight in

the dyeing operati o n a s th e y lose i n the process o f scouring so the ,

w e ight of the cloth from t h e loom m ay b e take n as net and the ,

calculatio ns based accor dingly .

The width of the warp i n the r e ed de p ends upon the class of

goods to be mad e t h e r e quired width o f the finished piece a nd t h e
, ,

structure of the design I n ordi nary worsted textu res the sh ri nk

.
,

age o f the cloth from the loom to t h e fini shed state varies fr o m 8
to 1 2
,

per c e n t .

A sample of fin ish e d cloth contai n s 8 0 threads and 8 0 picks

per inch A ll o w 1 0 p e r cen t for shrinkage l n t h e width and l e n g th
. .

Find the width of the w arp i n the reed and the n umber of thre ads ,

and picks per i nch with w hich i t must be woven The cloth i s 5 6 .

i n ch e s wi de fi n ish e d .

1 00 % 10 z 90 %
1 00
7 2threads and picks per
i nch i n loom .

Threads (8 0 ) X width ( 5 6 ) thr e ads i n loom 9 2

thr e a ds p e r i nc h ( 7 2
‘

)
i nches .

The original l e ngth and width represen ted The sh rin k

age w as s o the fini shed clo t h i s 9 0 % of t h e origi nal length

a nd w idth A s there are 8 0 th reads and picks per i nch i n t h e

.

finish e d cloth there must have be e n a small e r n u m ber per i nch

,

when the length and the wid th were g reater Th e refore m ultipl y .
,

the n umber of threads and pi cks by the fi nished wid th and l e ng t h

and divide the product by the origi nal length a nd width .

To fi nd the W idth in reed : First find the n um ber o f en ds i n

the warp by m ultiplyi ng the fi ni sh e d wi dth by n umb e r of thre ad s
per i nch i n th e finish e d cl o th ; th e n divide th e p roduct by the
.

thre ad s p e r i nch in the loom .

68 T E X T I L E C A L C UL A TI O N S

54 X 36 X 1 6 con stan t .

R ul e W e ight of sample X the constan t s

q . in . of

s a mple 2 w e ight of yar d gi ven width ,

Sa m pl e 3 X 2
. inches 24 grains .

2
4 X
17 o z. per yard
6
.

TA BL E OF CONSTA NTS .

I nc h e s I nc h e s
w id e w id e
2 2
. .

1 .98 4
14 44
16 46
18 48
2 0 50
2 4 52
2 7 54
2 8 55
30 56
2
3 58
34 60
36 62
38 64
40 66

E x ample A small sa m ple 1 square in ch 2 5 grain s What

. .

is the weight o f a yard o f cloth 5 6 i nches wide ?

Con stan t X 5 23 o zs .

The utili ty o f this rule i s at on ce apparen t when applied to

the solutio n of the above example o r to the following : A given
sa mple i s 3 X 3 inches and weighs 2
,

7 grains What is the weight

if the fabric i s 2
.

8 i nches wide ?

7 x 2
2 3
3 X 3 9 .

9
o zs.

EX A MPL ES F OR PR A CTI CE .

1 . A sample i s 4 i n ches and weighsX grain s .

W hat will on e yard of the fabric weigh 5 4 i nches wide ?

2 W hat will one yard of cloth 3 6 i n ches wide weigh if a
,
'

small sample 2 2
.
, , ,

% X i nches weig h s grain s ?

3 A yard of cloth 4 0 i nches wide weighs o zs What
will be the w e igh t o f a sample 4 X 2
. .

3 inches ?
4 W hat will o ne yard o f cloth 7 2 inches wide weigh if a
4 X 2
.
, , ,

i nch sample w e ighs 30 grain s ?

%
3
-
 T E X T I L E C A L C UL ATI O N S 69

A NA L YS I S OF PA TTERN .

Cloths
comp o sed of one color warp and one color filli ng are - -

said to be of solid color but when there are t w o or m o re colors in

,

the warp o r i n the filling the arrangemen t of the colors is t e rmed

,

the pattern W here several shades of colors of yarn are used in

.

fancy fabrics to produce certai n effects the order of the threads

, ,

must be carefully noted to make a correct reproductio n Of course .

the order o f arrangemen t o f these threads may be ascertai ned dur

ing the process o f dissection .

One thing to be attended to is that the leading thread i n the ,

pattern should be found wi th reference to the styl e of the design

,

o r weave employed Sometimes particular threads are i n tended to

.

show ei ther promi nently or the reverse and a special arrange m ent i n
the weave is made t o produce this result I n such cases the re l a .

t io n of th e th r e a d t o i ts w o rk i n g a rra nge m e n t must be strictly

observed o r the attempt at reproduction will be a failure I f the
,
.

style o f weave is all o ne kind as i n an ordinary twill o r sateen , ,

weave the above may be disregarde d

,
.

A n additional c o nsideration with regard to th e se differently ,

colored threads in the warp and one which m ust receive attention is
,

that whatever n umber of threads there may b e in t h e pattern it

, ,

m ust be repeated an even number of tim e s in the width of the

warp s o that i f th e edges of the cloth mi nus the s e lvedges were
, , ,

brought together s o as to form a tube the patt e rn wo uld be con ,

t inuo us all around .

Suppose that it is necessary to produce a fabric which contai n s

1 6 threads in o ne repeat o f the pattern as follows :4 threads
black 2thre ads drab 2thread s slate 4 threads black 2
,

thread s
slate 2
, , , ,

,
threads drab This arrangement must be re p eated as ma ny
.

times as i s made necessary by the req uired width A f e w extra .

threads may be disposed o f by casti ng o ut or a f e w may be added ,

t o m ake up even pattern s .

Suppose a warp contain s threads and t h e pattern i s

co mposed o f 1 6 threads .

Threads divided by number of threads i n patt e rn equals n um

ber o f patterns 1 6 2: 1 2 0 pattern s
Suppose a warp fabric is measured and found to be 3 2
. .

% i n ches
wide and the re are 4 8 threads per i nch and 1 6 t hreads in the pattern
'

,
70 T EX TI L E C A L C UL A TI O N S

48 X th re ads
2thr ads
.

1 6 2: 9 6 patte rn s 1 e .

Th e 1 2t e x ra fl are d /1 8 m us t be ca s t o u t .

A fabric 3 5 i nches wide con tain s threads i n th e wa rp

a nd i s d ressed 2 black 2 whi te 2 black 1 red ,
Ho w many pat , ,
.

tern s are th e re i n the warp ? ( b) Ho w many threads per i nch ?

R e l a t i v e W e ig h t s o f W a rp a nd Fil l ing There is yet an .

other essential con sideration i n reference to these varied threads ,

for i n addi tion to finding the n umber o f each ki nd their weight

, ,

also must be obtained for the purpose of warping and dressing as , ,

well as i n making o ut the cost of the fabric To the designer .

,

spi n ner and manufacturer calculation s of this k ind are very useful
Fi nd the weight o f a warp 64 yards long made of 2
.
,

worsted and woven i n a 1 6 s reed 4 thread s i n a den t 6 6 inches

,
’
, ,

wide i n reed
2 32
.

16 X 4 6 4 threads per i nch — s 2 16 s .

’ ’
.

6 4 X 6 6 X 6 4 ( threads p e r i nch )
" "

lbs
X
.

16 5 60
'
01
64
threads in th e
warp X the len g th
3 0 1 1bs
coun ts X standard
. ,

16 5 60
Exa m ple Fi n d the weight o f filli ng required to w e ave a
.

piece 6 4 yards long 6 4 i nches wide i n the reed 80 picks per i nch
, ,

of 1 1 8 s worsted A dd 5 per cent to cover th e waste i n weaving

-
’
. .

8 0 X 6 4 X 6 4 ( y ds ) X ( 1 0 0
"

lbs o f fillin g yarn

18 X 5 60 X 1 00
. .

I t must be remembered that a yard o f warp will no t weave a

yard of cloth and i n maki ng calcula tion s sometimes the length o f
, ,

the warp i s taken i nstead o f the loom length the differen ce in ,

length bei ng cons idered s u ffi c ien t t o cover extra cost o f waste o f

filling during the weaving .

EX A MPL ES FOR PR A CT I CE .

Find the weigh t o f warp and filling required to we ave a

1 .

piece 6 3 yards long 6 4 i nches i n the r e ed made from 7 0 yards of

, ,

warp and con tain i ng 8 4 picks per i nch plus 5 % fo r extra filli ng ,

to cover the was te in weavin g Yarn is all 1 6 s worsted .

’
.
 T E X TI L E C AL C UL A TI O N S 71

2 . A fabric 7 2yards long i s 5 6 i nches wid

i n the reed and e
,

c o ntains 8 0 picks p er i nch Wast e i n w eavi ng. 8 0 yards o f

warp are used in the fabric Find the weigh t of warp and filli ng
i f both are 2
.

4 0 s worsted
’
- .

6 4 yards of warp are woven i nto a fabric 5 6 yards long .

I n th loom the cloth i s 6 4 i nches wide and con tai ns 5 0 picks per
e
,

inch 5 % waste i n weaving i n filli ng Fi nd the weight of warp

. .

and filling if both are 1 4 s cotton ’

.

4 A woolen fab ric i s se t 5 6 i nch e s wide i n the reed and is

woven with 4 0 picks per inch ; 7 2
.
,

yards of warp fin ish to 6 4 yards

of cloth 5 % waste i n filling What is the weight of warp and
. .

filli ng i f both are 3 run woo l en ?

-

5 A 2 4 8 s worsted warp 6 5 yards long is warped to the fol

-
’

lowing pattern : Woven i n a 1 2

.

reed 4 threads in a den t 6 0 ,

-

i nches wide .

2black
2dk b rown X 4

2dk brown X 2
2
.

7 1k drab
2
.

4 threads in patter n .

12 X 4 48 4 8 X 60 ends i n warp
2 12
. .

4 0 patterns .

Find the weight o f each color o f yarn .

The foll owing is the mos t conven ien t for m to write o ut the
sche m e o f warp and filling as the summary of the threads c a n be
,

obtai ned more easily I t i s very essen tial to ascertai n he weigh t

.
,

of each color and sort o f material used especially i n the warp ,

where the number of thr e ads of each c o l o r and sort mus t be k nown
so that the several calculation s c a n be made for spooli ng and warping .

Black 2 2 2 2 8 threads
2 2 2 4 2 12
.

D k brown
22 4
.

D k g drab
24 i n pattern .

120 patter n s X 8 threads 9 6 0 Black

12 X 12
.

0 D k brown
12
. .

0 X 4 480 D k drab . .
7 2 T E X TI L E C AL C UL A TI O N S

Th e w e i g ht o f each kind can no w be o btained by the re g ular

m e thod .

9 60 65
2
4: X
lbs .

x 65
2
4: X 5 60
z lbs .

480 X 65
2
4 X 5 60
lbs .

total wei g ht of warp .

There is another method o f obtai ning the n um ber of threads

of each color .

Total nu m ber of war p th rea ds X threads of any color i n o ne repeat

Number o f threads i n pattern
2
.

X 1
2
4
In patter ns where there is a large n umber of threads o f o ne
color as may be the case i n a Scotch or Tartan pla id it i s adv is
, ,

able to commence the color scheme by dividing th e l a rge s t nu m ber

o
f t h r e a ds com mencing with o ne half and ending wi th the other-

A plaid i s made fro m 2 2

4 s worsted warp and filli ng 1 2
.
,
’ ’
- s ,

reed 4 in one den t 44 picks per in ch width withi n se l vedges 3 6

inches plus 2
, , ,

,
4 threads on each side for selvedges The warp .

take up is 1 5 % du ri ng weavi ng 6 0 yds o f warp before weavi ng

-

Selvedges white 2 2
. .
,

,
4 s worsted-
’
.

Black 2 4 6 2 0 20 6 24 1 00
W hite 12 6 68 6 12 1 04
R ed 6 6 2 1
2
16
This pattern has purposely bee n started with 2 4 threads of
black ( not e the selvedges are white ) and finished with the same ,

num ber and color I f the selvedges had been ordered black the
.
,

pattern would have commenced wi th 3 4 whi te .

48 X 36 216 8 repeats .

Black 1 00 X 8 800 X 6 0 ( 1 2X 5 6 0 ) lbs

2 832 2
.

White 1 04 X 8 : X 60 ( 1 X 5 60 ) lbs
12 2
.

R ed X 8 96 X 60 ( 1 X 5 6 0 ) 8 6 lbs . .

lbs
2
.

Selvedges white 48 X 60 ( 1 X 5 6 0) 4 3 l b s z . .
 T E X TI L E C AL C UL A TI O N S

The w e ight of each color of filling i s o btai n e d by the u se of a

similar formula but the width includ e s the selvedge s
,
.

37 X 44 pks
"
36 1
2
.

16
Black X 1 00 7 54
W hi te X 1 04 7 84
2

:
Red X 1 90

37 4 60
2 £0
X
1
lbs t o tal wei ght of
.
,
fil l in8 °

145 1 00
56 lbs of black fining
.

1 04
lbs of white fillin g
.

1 04
. 80 lbs of red
. fill ing '

total weight o f filling .

The total weight can first be obtained and then the proportion s ,

o f weight o f each color may be determ ined by the ratio o f picks o f

each color to the total number of picks i n each repeat o r multiply ,

the n umber o f picks per inch by 3 6 to find the n umber o f picks ,

in o ne yard then m ultiply the result by the length o f the warp

, ,

which will give the total number o f picks i n the whole piece .

Divide the total n umber o f picks by the n um ber o f picks i n the

pattern to find the nu m ber o f repeats Multiply the repeats by
,
.

the number o f picks o f each ki nd o f filling and again multiply ,

these products by the width o f the warp i n the reed i n the loom ,

which will give the total n umber o f inches o f filling o f each k i nd .

Divide t h e results by 36 t o re duce to yards and by the coun ts o f

.

the yarn m ultiplied by the standard number t o obtai n the weight

Lay a warp 7 2
.

inches wide i n loo m 60 yards long 4 run , ,

-

yarn ( 4 0 picks per in ch )

. .

Pattern o f filling 20 picks black

.

1 brown
6 black
1 brown
2 0 blac k
48
74 T E X T I L E C A L C UL ATI O N S

There a re 4 6 picks of black and 2picks o f b ro wn i n th e

p at

te r n
. Fi nd the amoun t o f yarn required of each color .

36
"

40 picks per i nch

yard
60
picks i n 6 0 yards
Total n um ber of p icks
1 8 0 0 r e peats '
Picks i n pattern (4 8
Brown X 2X 7 2
yards
36
.

18 oun ces
4 00
.

Black X 46 X 7 2 yards .

36

414 ounces .

4 00
The same rule applies to the picks of worsted and cotton by
using their respective coun ts and standard n umbers .
 TEXTILE CALCULA TIONS
R e ad ca re f ul l y yu
Pl a c e o r n a m e a n d fu
l l a d d re s s a t t h e h e ad o f t h e
p a pe r A n y c h e a p, l i g h t p p k
a e r l i e t h e s a m p l e p re i o s l se n t y o u m ay b e v u y
w y u w k y y
.

u se d .D o n o t c ro d o r o r , b ut a rran g e i t ne at l a n d l e g i b l D o no t .

cop y th e a n s w e r s f r o m th e I n s tr u c ti o n P ap e r ; u s e y o ur o w n w o r d s , s o th a t
w e m a y b e s ure th a t y o u un d e r s ta nd th e s ubj e c t .

1 Fi nd the worsted counts o f the following yarn s :

yards weigh 1 2ozs ;
.

yards weig h 1 1h ; . yards

weigh 1 2 1
: lbs
2 Fi nd the woole n runs o f the following yarn s :
.

yards wei gh 1 1h ; y ards.w eigh 4 ou nces ; yards weigh

5 %lbs .

3 Fi nd the cotton counts o f the following yarn s :

.

yards weigh 1 1h ; yards weigh . lb ; y ards -

.

weigh lbs .

4 What is the weight o f

. yards of 1 3 s worsted yarn ? ’

yards of 1 5 s cotton yarn ? ’

yards of 6 run woolen -

yarn ? and yards o f 2 0 s spun silk ? ’

5 Change the fol l owing yarn s t o cotton coun ts :

. 60 s worsted ’ °

1 0 run woolen ; and 1 4 1% li nen

- .

6 Change the following yarn s to worsted coun ts : 1 6 s c o t

’

t o n ; 7 run woolen ; and 2

.

4 s spun silk
’
-

G i ve the metric co un ts of the following yarn s : 2

.

7 8 s ’
'

worsted ; 5 run woolen ; and 3 2

.

s cotton
’
- .

8 G ive the coun ts o f the compound threads when the fol

lowing yarn s are twi sted together :3 6 s and 3 0 s worsted ; 1 2
.

0 s
’ ’ ’

and 60 s cotton ; 3 0 s and 6 0 s spun silk

’ ’ ’
.

9 Find the coun ts o f a 3 ply thread composed of 60 s 3 0 s -

’ ’

and 1 5 s worsted ; 7 2 and 2 4 s cotton ; 1 2

.
, ,

s 36 s run 6 run and

’ ’ ’ ’
- -
, , , ,

4 m m woolen .

10 What i s the counts o f a n ovelty yarn composed o f o ne

.

thread each o f 60 s 4 8 s and 3 6 s cotton ? The relati ve lengths of

’ ’ ’

yarn used are 5 4 and 2i nches The 3 6 s thread of which 2

, ,
’
.
,
, ,

i nch e s are used i s straight o r

 TE X T I L E C AL C ULA TI O N S

11 . I f a m ill has 6 00 lbs of 2 4 s worsted what weigh t of 1 8 s

.
’
,
’

wors ted will be required to twis t wi th i t to work i t all up and what ,

is th e coun ts of the compound thread ?

1 2 Fi nd the average cou n ts i n a pattern composed of 4 threads
2threads o f 4 8 s cotto n and 1 thread of 3 0 s cotton
.

o f 6 0 s cotton
’ ’ ’

Find the diameters of the following yarn s :3 2

.
, ,

13 s wors ted
’
.
,

l 0 0 s cotton a nd 8 run woolen

’
- .
,

14 . Ho w many th reads of each of the yarns i n Proble m 1 3

will lie side by side i n a cloth wove n with the plai n weave ?
15 . A sample of worsted cloth con tains 60 th reads and 6 0 ,

picks per inch A llow 5 % for shrinkage i n w idth and len g th and
.

find the n umber o f threads and picks per in ch with which the
cloth was w oven
1 6—2
.

0 . A nalysis o f Worsted Trouseri ng .

Data One square in ch grai n s

W idth wi thi n selvedges 2
. .

8 i nches
,
.

68 threads per inch grain s .

6 4 picks per i nch grain s

W arp pattern ; 3 slate ; 2 black ; 2
.

mix ; 1 black 8 threads .

Filling ; solid black

Fi nd the following particulars :
Weight o f o ne yard i nside selvedges
,

( a)
'

6
( ) Threads i n the w arp .

()0 Pattern s i n the warp .

d C oun ts o f w arp i n fi ni shed cloth

( ) .

C oun ts o f filling i n fi n ished cloth

( )
e .

Weight o f warp yarn i n o ne yard of finished cloth .

(g) Weight o f filling yarn i n o n e yard of fin ished cloth .

A f t e r c o m p l e t ing t h e w o rk a d d a nd s ig n t h e f o l l o w ing s t at e m e nt :
,

I h by
e re ce rtify th t th b v w k i nt i l y m y wn
a e a o e or s e re o .

( Si gn ed )