Professional Documents
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STUDY MATERIAL
AT6702-VEHICLE MAINTENANCE
DEPARTMENT OFAUTOMOBILE engineering
SEM - VII
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
UNIT – I
PART – A
Introduction
Maintenance means keeping all the systems and features functioning as possible to the
manufacturers original design intent tons.
Maintenance helps the vehicle to start run and stop as the manufacturer intended, so that
maximum amount of performance, reliability and service life are achieved.
After the completion of the recommended running in period for the new or reconditioned
vehicle, and during the subsequent normal working period it is necessary to give maintenance
attention to eat air specified items at regular intervals to ensure satisfactory operation and
freedom from trouble. These routine maintenance is to be done according to the manufacturers
instructions is the maintenance manual.
With the majority of vehicles, it is used to assume that at the end of the first 500/1000
kilometers miles if the vehicle has been driven below the stipulated maximum speed, the vehicle
will have attained it proper working condition.
4. What are the faults found in vehicle by selling agent?
The most important faults found in vehicles delivered by the manufacturers selling agents
are:
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Once there faults are rectified, the vehicle need not require much attention apart from the
routine check-up of fuel in the tank, water in the radiator, charging of battery, level of water oil
etc.
5. What is the maintenance works carried out after covering first 1000km?
At the end of the first 1000 km, the engine-sump gear box, back axle casing etc: are drained
and filled up with recommended grade of lubricants. All cylinder head nuts are checked for
tightness, and the inlet and exhaust manifoldness are also checked. All working joints of the
vehicle viz carburetor dried pump clutch, brake mechanism joints are oiled well. The steering
system and spring shackles are lubricated. The cooling system is checked for leakage. Spark
plugs, and automatic ignition controls are cleaned. Fuel filters are inspected and wheel alignment
and lightness are checked.
PART – B
Types of Maintenance
Preventive Maintenance
Preparation of checkup
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
One should have the good understanding of the entire system and parts involved in it.
Identifying the parts and the interval of which it has to be done.
Identifying what has to be done
It will clearly tell the frequency at which the oil changes, fire rotations, Brake inspections or
replacements etc are done hence monitoring activity an be done early.
It can be seen that the corrective replacement cost increases as the replacement interval
Increases. And the preventive maintenance cost decreases. On combining both cost we can get an
optimum point that minimizes the cost.
Checklist
A check is a simple, usually usual, confirmation that the equipment or vehicle is ready for
further use. A checklist gives us. The list components that as to be checked at regular interval
time. It may be
Daily check
Weekly check
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Monthly check
Yearly check
Service station/workshop
(i) Work allocated for efficiency (considering technician skill level completion time-outside
work required etc).
(ii) Accurate work instructions (eg. Nature of problem). Repair procedure proper steps
completion time etc).
5. Repairs (Technicians)
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
If comp pr. reduced. or low Gaskets, valve leak valve timing. Change of comp
& comp Ring crack in the cylinder head warpage
due to insufficient tightening of the head
1. Loose spark plugs start Engine to Blow out carbon and dust, start-off Engine and
Remove plugs.
2. Test Engine compression:-
3. If the comp. pr is less, perform Engine service that will Eliminate the trouble of the
compression is alright Re-Install the spark plug.
4. Remove distributors cap clean it. Visually check for carbon tracks and carroded
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
11. Check Battery state of charge, water level and hold down clamps.
12. Check battery cables for damage corrosion and loose connections.
13. it the battery is overcharged or undercharged check the dynamo (Alternator) and
regulator
14. check drive belt and Tighten or replace them as require
15. Check the intake manifold bolts for tightness to proper specifications. Even a slight
leak will reduce engine performance
16. Check fuel lines for tight connections.
17. Check the cooling system for water leaks collapsed hoses, correct, coolant level.
18. Check and adjust accelerator linkage.
Can be adjusted
In linkage
19. Check crankcase ventilation system.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
20. Remove carbureter air cleaner and check choke value clean or replace air filter
element if necessary.
21. Check and adjust contact point dwell and ignition homing.
22. Adjust idle speed and mixture.
23. Check the lube-oil dipstick level.
Feel the consistency of lub oil and find the wheather the need for lub oil to be
changed or not
24. Check the working of lights and horn. Adjust the head lamp for proper focusing.
25. Check steering system for easiness.
5. Write down the steps involved in servicing the ignition system with contact breaker points.
3. Replace the primary wire (coil) to distributor and coil to switch it is broken make sure that
the connections are clean and Tight.
4. Clean and inspect the distributor cap.
5. Examine the Rotor.
6. Twist the distributor shaft in the direction of rotations and release. It should snap back it if
Does not the distribute advance mechanism must be repaired.
7. Inspect the contact points replace them it necessary check and set the gap.
8. put a small amount of cam lubricant (white silver lube) on the distributor com.
9. check and set the Dwell using a Dwell meter
10. Adjust the timing using a Timing light and Techometer
11. check whether the advance mechanism works using the timing light.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
1. Remove H.T wire from Spar plug to do this slightly twist the rubber protector boot which
partially covers the fluid, to break the seal, grasp the boot and pull it away from the plug
with a steady even pressure.
2. Mark each wire with the cylinder no.(user paper Tape).
3. Remove any foreign material from around the plug hole by wiping with a rag (or) Blowing
air waste cloth.
4. Remove the spark plug and Gaskets and heap them in the order by the which they are
Removed. An isolated plug showing an abnormal condition indicate that the problem is
with that cylinder.
5. Wipe if the exterior of the plug and inspect for proper sealing.
6. Check for burned electrodes and dirty, foul (or) cracked insulators what does the sp face
reveal?
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Figure:
17. fill the electrodes until all the carbon is removed and the tip of the central electrode is flat
across the top.
18. Adjust the Gap to correct specification.
19. Ensure that the plug seating surface in the head is clean.
20. Install the plug.
21. Tighten the plugs using a Torque wrench to correct specification. (most) 4mm plugs are
Tightened to approximately four Kg N.
22. It torque wrench not available, Tighten the plug finger tight. Then using a socket wrench
Tighten it approximately halt a turn.
23. Inspect the plug wires. It insulation is brittle. Replace the wire.
24. Clean the distributor cap.
25. Re install the plug wires to the same cylinder from which they were removed.
Daily Maintenance
1. Clean vehicle
2. Check engine oil level and top up if necessary
3. Check radiator water level and top up
4. Inspect tyre for normal pressure and ensure that no tyre is fist
5. Check for fuel in tank
6. Check up whether light and electrical accessories are functioning well
7. Check up brake for normal functioning
8. Start engine and check up performance
Weekly Maintenance
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
5. Check tyres for abnormal wear. If abnormal wear is noticed check wheel alignment,
chamber etc.
6. Wash vehicle with water mixed with detergent or with soap water.
7. Check oil leak if any from engine, transmission and differential and arrange to rectify.
8. Clean plays and refit if the vehicle is petrol driven
9. Tighten joint belts and axle bolts.
10. Tighten spring and shackle bolts and nuts if necessary
11. Adjust fan belt play if necessary.
12. Check up water pump grease cup and repack, if necessary
13. Check whether Dynamo is functioning well. Adjust regulator if necessary.
14. Check oil in steering box gear box and differential and top up if necessary.
8. Write dour the monthly, quarterly and half yearly maintenance schedule an automobile.
Monthly Maintenance
Quarterly Maintenance
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
9. Explain the various types of records books and form that are being used in automobile
service station of cards.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
5 AC/Cooler Refrigerant NA
C Clean; R Replace; CA Check & Adjust; CR Check & Replace; T Tighten
ADDITIONAL
JOB:
MILEAGE 1,50,000 4,50,000
TIMING BELT Replace Replace
Name of the Signature
Inspector
The status and remarks for all the items mentioned above are indicated on the check sheet
during the maintenance operation.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
1. The road test inspector or the machine makes the road test report after the
completion of the maintenance operation.
2. This report contains the vehicle registration number, chassis number; job no, data of
test etc.
3. The parameters to be checked included the following:
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
The road test report gives a fare idea of the condition of the vehicle before and after the
maintenance operation.
Trip sheet
The trip sheet gives the entire details of the vehicle before and after a trip. The starting km
and ending km, time of start and closing of the journey time and the charges per km and also the
overall cost of trip is described in the trip sheet.
Logbook
The logbook of a vehicle gives the details of the vehicle, which will be useful not only for
the owner of the vehicle but also to the mechanic who might take the job of vehicle maintenance
latter.
The logbook contains the following details:
Distance covered
Fuel consumption
Average fuel consumption
Best and worst mileage
Total maintenance cost
Running costs
Faults in the vehicle
Likes and dislikes
Date of the previous maintenance report
Conclusion:
The different statement and records required for the repair and maintenance works were
prepared and the uses of records were studied.
Cooling system
Brakes
Front Brakes
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Front Lights
Rear Lights
Charging System
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Dashboard warning
light
Ignition System
Gear Box
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
UNIT –II
Overhauling a machine, strictly speaking, means going over it. When a vehicle engine is
being overhauled, it is completely taken apart, every piece is inspected and what ever piece shows
appreciable wear is reconditioned to its original shape and dimensions or replaced by a new one.
After this the engine is reassembled, put on a test stand, started, tuned up, and carefully tested.
Since it is difficult to keep and accurate maintenance log for a vehicle away from the garage
sometimes for days or week and since the operators of these vehicles need not be first class
mechanics, and because nobody is concerned how efficiently an engine works as long as it runs
and pulls the lead, a general overhauling of the engine is done at regular intervals, every 12 or 18
months as the case may be.
In general, the methods of overhaul do not differ from maintenance procedure, except that
in overhauling a more strict examination is in order as the intervals are considerably greater than
in maintenance work, a part even slightly worn, if it is not subject to maintenance inspection
periodically, should therefore be either reconditioned or replaced.
Dismantling:
One of the important rule to be adhered in dismantling an engine is to mark all parts and
identify them as the engine is dismantled. It is particularly important to mark camshaft gears and
valves if manufacturer’s marks cannot be found. Centre and punch markings will serve the
purpose.
Changing the tyres around: In order to obtain the greatest mileage from a set of new tyres
(including the spare one too) it is necessary to change then round at intervals of about 3000 miles
for rear drive vehicles and 2000 miles for front drive vehicles during this useful life.
Cuts in tyre treads: Since water and grit penetrate and destroy the cords, small cuts in tyre has to
be plugged with readily available “plastic tyre stopping large cuts should be vulcanized at tree.
Punctures: When a puncture occurs, on the road, the vehicle should be stopped and the when
changed Tube less tyres can be driven to a safe distance even though they puncture, because, they
lose their air more slowly. Small punctures can be repaired with rubber patches and rubber
solution. Minimum amount of solution is to be applied and it is allowed to dry for 5 to 10 minutes
before placing the prepared patch: After this some talc is sprinkled over the patch to prevent
sticking to the outer cover major repairs of the tubes are to be done with a professional vulcanizer.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
When the vehicle is stored for a long period all the tyres are to be removed and stored an
cool dry place, or the vehicle can be jacked off the ground and the tyres can be rubbed with French
chalk.
3. Write down the step by step procedure for engine removing and dismantling?
A general procedure for removing the engine from the vehicle can be summed up as
follows:
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
At this stage it is advisable to stop and look around the engine unit to make sure that all
connections with the chassis frame, dash board, and body work have been released. The final
operation will then connecting the front universal joint (just behind the gear box) and the earthing
cable or strip between the engine unit and chassis frame, finally removing the nuts of the holding-
down studs or bolts of the engine unit mounting. Usually there are two rubber mountings at the
front end of the engine and a single large rear mounting on the gear box.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Once the engine is freed from the chassis a single or double rope or chain sting should be
adjusted carefully round it making sure that the sling comes under the strongest part of the unit
and does not foul any of the more vulnerable components like, the ignition unit, oil filter or
carburettor. Now locate the chain on the lifting hook of the crane, so that when the engine is
raised the front will be on a slightly higher level than the rear. Finally, lift the engine slowly and
at the same time push the chassis rearwards so that the clutch housing will clear the cab opening.
It is convenient to mount the engine an a suitable engine stand, which will have the
following features.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
The intervals at which decarbonizing of the engine becomes necessary, depend upon a
number of circumstance being governed by the performance and tendency of the engine to knock
under acceleration or hill climbing . It is unwise to post pone decarbonising, since increase engine
wear will result and the performance will also continue to fall off.
The hard carbon deposit found on motor vehicle engine consists partly of carbon from
lubricating oil and fuel and partly of hard abrasive siliceous matter carried as fine dust particles
by the air of the fuel mixture.
The reason for this is that this carbon which slightly overlaps the edge tends to prevent oil
from parsing upwards, tests have shown that the oil consumption in slightly reduced when this
carbon ring is left.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
(12) Remove carbon from the valve ports and metal around the valve guides
(13) Remove the carbon deposits in the sparking plug holes with a pointed tool such as a bradawl
or scriber.
(14) Remove all plugs (with cotton waste) and give the parts a final cleaning with a suitable cloth.
(15) Smear each barrel with engine oil and rotate the crankshaft a few times so as to distribute the
oil evenly over the surfaces.
(16) Replace the gasket, (use a new one if necessary and cylinder head and tighter the holding
down nuts on finger tight.
(17) Tighten the cylinder head nut in the order prescribed by the manufacturer, using the
appropriate torque by a torque wrench.
(18) Replace the cylinder head fittings.
The above procedure is for, when the engine requires only decarbonising. When a complete
over haul is done, decarbonising also takes part as a routine over haul procedure.
As the components are removed they should be grouped conveniently on a bench or table,
prior to cleaning. Before taking of any component, make sure that it is marked identically with
mating part.
5. Briefly mention the methods used for Cleaning the Engine components?
If relatively few engines are to be reconditioned at appreciable intervals, the paraffin bath
method of cleaning is the most economical. The group of components are immersed in a bath or
deep tray containing paraffin and scrubbed with a wire or bristle brush to remove all dirt.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
The motor garages uses a high pressure spray directly by a nozzle on a flexible hose to the
parts which are placed on perforated draining tray; small parts dealt with collectively by placing
in a special container. The dirt and grease are quickly dislodged and the paraffin is thoroughly
filtered through the detachable filter box before it drains into the reservoir at the bottom, thus
there is no need to clean any sludge from the tray or reservoir.
Caustic soda made into a solution with hot water, hot saturated, sodium carbonate solutin
and trichloro ethelen are other cleansing agents used.
Often a careful scribing of the various engine parts will reveal indications of damage
excessive wear, surface cracks, and other defects without the need for more elaborate inspection.
The simple parts such as studs, bolts and nuts should be examined for signs of damage or
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
stripping. The nuts can be run down the threads as a check. Bolts, nuts and washer faces must be
free from edge burrs. The valves, springs , collar’s and retainers, are their examined for wear and
shape.
The piston should be carefully inspected for surface damage and for wear effects in the
ring grooves, on the skirt portion etc. Blackened areas on the land or skirt denotes areas of gas
blow- by , and these are noted. The piston crown should be examined for cracks or distortion and
the gudgeon pin holes for signs of hammering effect.
The big end bearings of the connecting rod and the journals of the crank shaft are inspected
for signs of cracking, scoring or other surface defects. The can shaft bearings and journals are also
checked.
The timing gear teeth will indicate by visual and meshing tests, whether any undue
damage or wear has occurred. Similarly the condition of the timing chains rocket teeth are also
checked.
When spares are available , they can be employed for comparison purpose with the those
under inspection.
Now the cylinder blocks and head are inspected for the following defects.
1. Cracks in the water jacket walls
2. Damaged machined faces
3. Fractured Flanges
4. Cracked Valve seatings or loose seating inserts
5. Scored cylinder barrels or ridging near the top
6. Loose or damaged cylinder head studs.
After the visual inspection the cylinder measurements one taken accurately to find out the wear.
The cylinder, piston, piston rings, crankshaft journals, connecting rod bearings, camshaft
,connecting rods, crank shaft, timing gears, chain wheels and chain are all measured for weak.
The valve stem, its seating, guide bushes etc: are also to be checked for wear.
When cylinder liners are used, it is easy to remove the work cylinder lines and insert a new
one, and the cylinder reboring can be dispensed with.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
The other engine components that are to be examined are the various bearings viz, the
crank shaft bearings, the camshaft bearings, the connecting rod big end and small end bearings,
the crankpin, the connecting rods, the valves, their seatings, guide bushes, the rocker arm, push
rods, cam profile, timing gear, chains of chain drive where used, the ignition system of the S.I.
engines, the fuel pump and nozzles of C.I. engines etc.
After all the engine components are inspected and tested for their measurements, shapes
and performance the reassembling of the engine begins.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
7. What are the special tools and basic instruments required for maintenance?
For Engine:
1. Compression Gauge
2. Vacuum Gauge
3. Tachometer
1. Voltmeter
2. Ammeter (0-30 Amps)
3. Tachometer
4. Hydrometer
5. Batter Load Tester
Coolant Thermometer
8. What are the common troubles / Faults that normally occur in an automobile?
Engine Overheating
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
1. Loss of coolant
2. Defective Thermostat
3. Defective water pump
4. Collapsed Radiator Hose
5. Excessive Rust & Scales
6. Obstructed air passage through Radiator
7. late Ignition timing
8. Combustion leak into cooling system
9. Improper coolant mix
10. Defective Temperature Gauge
1. Defective Thermostat
2. Defective Gauge
Carburetor flooding
Rough Idle:
Sluggish Performance
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Hard Starting
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
No Charge Rate:
Problem:
Grounded primary coil winding, grounded ignition switch or a lead will cuase excessive
current flow and will usually cause wires to burn.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Due to Battery
Accumulation of liquid fuel in the intake manifold as well as cylinder. The engine won’t
start until, the rich mixture formed by flooding .
Reason
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Hard starting of engine under hot conduction is mainly due to over supply of fuel
(flooding) in rare cases an ignition coil may loose its efficiency when it is hot and cause ignition
failure.
Apart from the conditions listed under engine won’t start the following conditions are also
to be checked.
1. Choke setting too lean
2. Fuel may have kerosene, water or ice
3. Ice in fuel lines
4. Engine is cranked too slowly or won’t turn because:
a) Engine oil too thick in sub-zero weather
b) Battery too weak due to very low temp
5. Another possibility even though remote is that the water pump is jammed with ice, which
will interfere with cranking engine if fan belt is tight.
Flow of fuel to the mixing chamber is stopped (locked) By the formation of vapourrized
fuel pockets or bubbles caused by overheating the fuel by hot fuel pump, hot fuel lines or hot
carburetor.
High ambient temperature, hard driving defective engine cooling and high altitudes are
contributing to vapour lock.
1. More volatile components in the fuel, have evaporated and the remaining ones are not
sufficiently volatile to form a combustible mixture.
2. Low or run down battery
3. Corrosion of engine moving parts
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
These troubles are more humidity climate and near salt water.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
UNIT – III
PART – A
1. Draw the carious clutch pedal positions and explain?
2. Draw the clutch release bearing and finger arrangements and explains?
PART – B
1. What is clutch slipping Explain?
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
When a vehicle enters the shop for clutch troubles, one should test – drive the vehicle.
While the vehicle is being test – driven, one should check the action of the clutch pedal, listen for
unusual noises, and feel for clutch pedal vibrations.
There are five types of clutch problems – slipping, grabbing, dragging, abnormal noises,
and vibration. It is important to known the symptoms produced by these problems and the parts
and the parts that might be the cases.
Slipping:
Slipping occurs when the driven disc fails to rotate at the same speed as the driving
members when the clutch is fully engaged. This condition results whenever the clutch pressure
plate fails to hold the disc tight against the face of the flywheel. If clutch slippage is severe, the
engine speed will rise rapidly on acceleration, while the vehicle gradually increases in speed.
Slight but continuous slippage may go unnoticed until the clutch facings are ruined by excessive
temperature caused by friction.
Normal wear of the clutch lining causes the free travel of the clutch linkage to decrease,
creating the need for adjustment. Improper clutch adjustment can cause slippage by keeping the
release bearing in contact with the pressure plate in the released position. Even with your foot off
the pedal, the release mechanism will act on the clutch fork and release bearing.
Some clutch linkage are designed to allow only enough adjustment to compensate for the
lining to wear close to the rivet heads. This prevents damage to the flywheel and pressure plate
by the rivets wearing grooves in their smooth surfaces.
Other linkages will allow for adjustment after the disc is worn out. when in doubt whether
the disc is worn excessively, remove the inspection cover on the clutch housing and visually
inspect the disc.
Binding linkage prevents the pressure plate from exerting its full pressure against the disc,
allowing it to slip. Inspect the release mechanism for rusted, bent, misaligned, sticking, or
damaged components. Wiggle the release fork to check for free play. These problems result in
slippage.
A broken motor mount (engine mount) can cause clutch slippage by allowing the engine to
move, binding the clutch linkage. Under load, the engine can lift up in the engine compartment,
shifting the clutch linkage and pushing on the release fork.
Grease and oil on the disc will also cause slippage. When this occurs, locate and stop and
leakage, thoroughly clean the clutch components, and replace the clutch disc. This is the only
remedy.
If clutch slippage is NOT caused by a problem with the clutch release mechanism, then the
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
trouble is normally inside the clutch. You have to remove the transmission and clutch
components for further inspection. Internal clutch problem, such as weak springs and bent or
improperly adjusted release levers, will prevent the pressure plant from applying even pressure.
This condition allows the disc to slip.
To test the clutch for slippage, set the emergency brake and start the engine. Place the
transmission or transaxle in high gear. Then try to drive the vehicle forward by slowly releasing
the clutch pedal. A clutch in good condition should lock up and immediately kill the engine. A
badly slipping clutch may allow the engine to run, even with the clutch pedal fully released.
Partial clutch slippage could let the engine run momentarily before stalling.
Note: Never let a clutch slip for more than a second or two. the extreme heat generated by
slippage will damage the flywheel and pressure plate faces.
Grabbing:
A grabbing or chattering clutch will produce a very severe vibration or jerking motion
when the vehicle is accelerated from a standstill. Even when the operator slowly releases the
clutch pedal, it will seem like the clutch pedal is being pumped rapidly up an down. A loud bang
or chattering may be heard, as the vehicle body vibrates. Clutch grabbing and chatter is caused by
problems with components inside the clutch housing (friction disc) flywheel, or pressure plate.
Other reasons for a grabbing clutch could be due to oil or grease on the disc facings, glazing, or
loose disc facings. Broken parts in the clutch, such as broken disc facings, broken facing springs,
or a broken pressure plate, will also cause grabbing.
There are several things outside of the clutch that will cause a clutch to grab or chatter
when it is being engaged. Loose spring shackles or U – bolts, loose transmission mounts, and
worn engine mounts are among the items to be checked. If the clutch linkage binds, it may release
suddenly to throw the clutch into quick engagement, resulting in a heavy jerk. However, if all
these items are checked and found to be in good condition, the trouble is inside the clutch itself
and will have to be removed for repair.
Dragging:
A dragging clutch will make the transmission or transaxle grind when trying to engage or
shift gears. This condition results when the clutch disc does not completely disengage from the
flywheel or pressure plate when the clutch pedal is depressed. As a result, the clutch disc tends to
continue turning with the engine and attempts to drive the transmission.
The most common cause of a dragging clutch is too much clutch pedal free travel. With
excessive free travel, the pressure plate will not fully release when the clutch pedal is pushed to
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
the floor. Always check the clutch adjustments first. If adjustment of the linkage does not correct
the trouble, the problem is in the clutch, which must be removed for repair.
On the inside of the clutch housing, you will generally find a warped disc or pressure plate,
oil or grease on the friction surface, rusted or damaged transmission input shaft, or improper
adjustment of the pressure plate release levers causing the problem.
Abnormal Noises:
Faulty clutch parts can make various noises. When an operator reports that a clutch is
making noise, find out when the noise is heard. Does the sound occur when the pedal is moved,
when in neutral, when in gear, or when the pedal is held to the floor? This will assist you in
determining which parts are producing these noises.
An operator reports hearing a scraping, clunking, or squeaking sound when the clutch
pedal is moved up or down. This is a good sign of a worn or unlubricated clutch release
mechanism. With the engine off, pump the pedal and listen for the sound. Once the source of the
sound is located, you should clean, lubricate, or replace the parts as required.
Sounds produced from the clutch, when the clutch is initially ENGAGED, are generally due
to friction disc problems, such as a worn clutch disc facing, which causes a metal – to – metal
grinding sound. A rattling or a knocking sound may be produced by weak or broken clutch disc
torsion springs. These sounds indicate problems that require the removal of the transmission and
clutch assembly for repair.
If clutch noises are noticeable when the clutch is DISENGAGED, the trouble is most likely
the clutch release bearing. The bearing is probably either worn, binding, or, in some cases, loses
its lubricant. Most clutch release bearings are factory lubricated; however, on some larger trucks
and construction equipment, the bearing requires periodic lubrication. A worn pilot bearing may
also produce noises when the clutch is disengaged. The worn pilot bearing can let the
transmission input shaft and clutch disc vibrate up and down, causing an unusual noise.
Clutch Rattles:
This condition occurs when engine is idling with transmission in neutral causes are
6. What are the causes for noise when clutch pedal is released?
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
1. Misalignment of transmission with engine causing slight wobble of clutch disc hub.
Noticeable at engine idling or at low speed.
2. Disc hub loose fit on splined clutch shaft.
3. Disc damper springs weak or broken.
4. No pedal play.
5. Weak or Broken pedal return spring.
6. Weak or Broken Release sleeve spring.
7. Clutch linkage sticky
8. Clutch pedal sticky.
9. Clutch release sleeve sticks.
10. Clutch release fork binds.
11. Bad clutch release bearing
12. Loose flywheel.
Gear Box:
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Sticking in gear:
When diagonising gear noise note the gear position in which the noise occurs. Noise in all
gear position may be due to worn or damaged constant mesh gear box gears or bearing. Noise in
only one gear can usually traced to the particular gear involved other causes of noise are:
Noise in reverse:
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Hard Shifting:
Usually the problems that arise in propeller shafts are noise and vibrations which are the
result of incorrect universal joint angles, unbalanced parts or loose or worn parts. They may also
arise due to damaged propeller shaft tabes or material such as under coating stioking to the tube
to cause unbalance.
Checks:
The following checks should be made after a through visual inspection. Such an inspection
gives many dues like damages to the shaft tube, loose joints etc.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Servicing:
The propeller shaft and universal joint servicing should be done periodically proper
cleaning and greasing of joints should be done carefully. In case the universal joints are fitted
with grease nipples – grease then every 3000 miles.
1. Flat spot on ring gear or pinion tooth or tooth chipped or metal lodged on tooth.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Intermittent noise:
Noise on turns:
Vibrations:
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
4. Excessive castor.
5. Suspension arms bent or twisted.
6. Front spring sagged.
7. Frame bent or broken.
8. Steering knuckle bent.
9. Kingpin frozen in bushing.
10. Excessive misalignment or steering shaft coupling.
11. Misalignment or steering column and gear.
14. What are the causes for excessive play or looseness of steering?
16. What are the causes for erratic steering on application of brakes?
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Tendency of a can to veer away from a st Para without driver control frequency steering
movement is necessary.
Normal drng:
Lack of tracking means the run with are not following a page
When braking:
When the brake shoes are unevenly adjusted or when a stucn w cylinder or caliper piston
cases the shoes at one w to apply less broking
19. What is steering kick back?
Steering shock – consist of sharp of rapid movement of the steering w that occur when the
front w encounter obstruction in the road, incurred tyre inflation.
Noises:
20. What are the reasons for long pedal travel or pedal goes up to floor level?
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
21. What are the reasons for spongy pedal and write down the remedies.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
14. Loose back plate mounting bolbs, loose Tighten back plate mounting bolts and
shoe abutment or adjuster housings adjuster housing mountings. If abutment is
loose replace back plate.
15. Improper steering Geometry Reset
16. Loose or worn tie rod end Tightener replace
17. Loose king pin and bushes Replace as a set
18. Loose wheel bearing, steering or a Adjust or tighten
clamp nuts
19. Weak shock absorber Replace
Brake fade: Fade is a temporary reduction of brake effectiveness resulting from heat.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
24. What are the causes and remedies for when Braking?
25. What are the causes and remedies for Grinding noise in braking?
Body Maintenance:
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
26. Explain the procedure for servicing the wheel cylinder of braks?
27. What are the causes and remedies for Brake Binding?
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
28. What are the causes and remedies for one wheel drag?
29. What are the causes and remedies for hard pedal or poor braking?
1. Causes Remedy
2. Incorrect linning Adjust properly
3. Grease or oil soaked lining Replace
4. Un bedded living Bed lining properly
5. Glazed lining Sand paper the lining surface
6. Pedal binding on the shaft Lubricate (or) condition
7. Seized master cylinder or Service with kit.
wheel cylinder discon
8. Wrongly fitted shoes Install leading & trailing shoes
correctly
9. Bell mouthed barrel shaped Replace (or) reborb the down.
(or) polished drum
30. What are the causes and remedies for reduced brake pedal travel?
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Batteries which are not too badly sulphate may often be reconditioned by charging at a
1 1
very low rate from to their normal charging current. The charging should be continued until
5 10
1
the battery begins to gas freely when it should be discharged through high resistance at about to
3
1
ampere note.
4
Other battery troubles which may occur are internal short circuiting of the plates due to the
breaking away of the paste from the plates and its lodgment between the plates and buckled plots
due to excessive vibration or constant overcharging.
For charging the battery the instructions of the manufacturer are to be strictly followed. A
1
battery in good condition can be given a rapid or boost charge such that it is charged in to 1
d
hour . The acid temperature should not exceed 110 F during this, process.
For the regular maintenance of the battery the following equipments instruments and
materials and required.
i) Battery charger
ii) Hydrometer
iii) Voltmeter with loading resistors
iv) Distilled water
v) Acid solution (H2SO4)
vi) Terminal cleanser
vii) Wiping cloth etc
Automobile types are costly items and are subjected to rapid wear maintained properly
periodic inspection for the correct inflation pressure, wheel alignment, toe-in, camber, etc, will
prolong the life of the tyre.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
For removing a tyre with tube, the tube is first deflated and then both the beads are pushed
off then rim seatings with a tyre lever. The bead on the valve side should be first loosened with a
tyre lever and pushed in to the rim well on the opposite side of the wheel to the valve. Using a
second tyre lever, about 2” away from the first the bead should be prised over the rim and then
the rest of the bead will readily come over the rim. When a tube is inserted into its cover, it should
be slightly inflated before attempting to replace the tyre bead in position.
Excessive or irregular tyre wear can be due to several different causes which includes.
The tyre inflation pressure depends upon the size of the tyre, the load on the tyres and the
maximum speed at which the vehicle is driven.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
If the tyre pressure is much lower than the correct value, then the type walls will flux more
and greater stress will occur on the type cords, causing, greater heat to on the weaken the casing .
The result will be uneven wear on the read, reduced vehicle performance, greater roll on curves
and higher fuel consumption. There will be greater tread contact area with the ground.
The higher inflation pressure causes greater tyre chord stresses and increased wear on the
centre of the tread. It also tends to reduce the further over inflated tyre is more susceptible to cuts
and brusises.
Excessive wheel camber will cause greater wear on the outer ribs of the tyre. For excessive
negative camber the inside tyre ribs will wear more.
If the toe-in is greater than the correct distance given by the manufacturer, then the front
wheel tyre will develop fins on the outside edges which will shorten the tyre life. If the front
wheel have too much toe-out the tread ribs will shown fins, but on the opposite sides of the ribs.
If a car with correct camber angle is regularly driven on a well cambered road the left hand
front tyre will tend to wear more than the other tyres.
Severe acceleration, breaking, steering action and springing movements will cause irregular
spotty wear on the front tyres as if they were tonehed in places with high speed grinding wheel.
When a vehicle wheel, driven at moderate speed strikes the side of a road kerb or any other
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
solid object the impact will often fracture the tyre casing chood, with the result of a later tyre fail
by blow ow.
If the wheel unit is out of balance, road shocks of a vibratory kind known as tramp and
steering shimmy may occur. The forms is due to wheel unbalance in the radial sence and the
latter due to unbalanced region out of centre.
When the complete tyre and wheel is tested for balance, the lighten side of the wheel is
revealed and the correct balance is effected by placing lead weights specially designed for the
purpose, on the rims lighter side.
The rate of tread wear increases fairly rapidly with the vehicle speed. The following figures
by the Dunlop Rubber company emphasigs this
30 m.p.h Normal
40 m.p.h 76% of normal
50 m.p.h 59% of normal
60 m.p.h 43% of normal
70 m.p.h 30% of normal
Other factors affecting tyre wear include condition of road surface, road curves and
graduals, and temperature. The rate of wear on warm, roader is twice to that if cold roads.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Method of sealing small punctures of tubeless tyres with rubber sealing plug.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Figure: Mechanic toe gauge used to measure the distance between the centres at the front and
back of the tires. The difference is distances is the total toe (Mutsubishi Motor Sales of
America. Inc)
Of frame bracket. When the shims are inside the frame bracket (Figure) adding shims moves the
upper control arm inward. This reduces positive camber. When the shims are outside the frame
bracket, adding shims moves the upper control arm outward. This increases positive camber.
Adding shims at one bolts and removing from the other moves the outer end of the upper-
control arm forward or backward. This increases or decreases caster figure:
Note: Some trucks have an I-beam front axle and leaf springs (figure) instead of upper and lower
control arms. Caster is adjusted by installing tapered caster shims between the spring and the
axle. If the shims are installed backward, the axle will have excessive negative caster. The drive
may complain of difficulty in keeping the truck in a straight-ahead position, wander and pull.
2. Cam-Bolt Adjustment Figure shows one arrangement using offset or eccentric cam bolts to
adjust caster and camber. The two bushings at the inner end of the upper control arm attach to the
frame brackets with two cam bolts. Tuning the cam bolts the same amount in the same direction
changes camber.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Figure: Caster and camber adjustments on some vehicles using shims (Chevolet Division of
General Motors Corporation).
Turning only one cam bolt or turning both cam bolts in opposite direction changes caster.
On some vehicles , the cam bolts are in the inner ends of the lower-control arms.
Figure: Caster and camber adjustments by turning offset, or eccentric, cam bolts (ATW)
3. Pivot-Shaft Adjustment This arrangement has slots in the frame at the two points where the
upper control-arm pivot shaft attaches bolts and moving the pivot shaft in or out changes camber.
Moving only one end changes caster.
4.Struct-Rod Adjustment Changing the length of the suspension strut rod changes caster .
Turning the cam bolt on the inner end of the lower control arm changes camber.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Many vehicles with MacPherson struts do not have camber and caster adjustments. Other
have a cam bolt at the lower end of the adjust camber.(Figure). Turning the cam bolt moves the
top of the wheel in or out. If no camber adjustment is provided, some manufacturers recommend
enlarging the bolts holes in the bottom of the strut. On some MacPherson strut Suspensions,
caster and camber are adjusted at the upper strunt mount (figure) Moving the strut toward the
front or rear changes caster. Moving the strut in or out changes camber.
Figure: Adjusting caster and camber by shifting the position of the pivot shaft, using slots in
the frame. (Chrysler Corporation)
Toe Adjustment:
After making caste rand camber adjustments, check and adjust toe. Front wheel toe is
measured with the steering wheel centered and the wheels straight ahead. Figure shows a
mechanical too gauge that measures total toe. Its length is adjusted so the pointers are at the
centers of the tires. The total toe is the difference in distance between tire centers at the rear and at
the front.
To adjust toe, loosen the tie-rod locknuts (figure) Rotate the rods until the toe measurement
is set to specifications. Do not allow the boots on the ends of the steering gear to twist while
making the adjustment. Then tighten the tie –rod locknuts to the specified torque.
When all four wheels are properly aligned and there is not thrust angle, the steering wheel
will be centered while the vehicle is moving straight ahead (figure). If not, the steering wheel can
be centered by adjusting the tie rods. Adjust the tie rods to steer the front wheel in the same
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
direction the steering wheel is off center. For example, if the steering wheel is off center to the
right, adjust the tie rods to make the front wheels steer toward the right.
To make the adjustment, loosen the locknuts and turn both tie rods the same amount in the
same direction. (Figure). On one car, only 1/5 turn of the tie rods moves the steering-wheel rim
0.250 inch [6 mm] or 2 degrees.
Caster Adjustment slide the upper plate toward the front of car until the desired caster reading is
obtained. Camber Adjustment slide the Large Lock nut toward or away from the Engine until the
desired camber reading is obtained.
Figure: Adjusting caster and camber on a MacPherson strut by repositioning the upper strut
mount (Moog. Automotive, Inc).
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Figure: Tie rod adjustments to center the stering wheel (Chrysler Corporation).
Rear-Wheel Alignment:
Many front-wheel drive vehicles have stub axles or spindles on which the rear hubs and
wheels mount. Rear wheel camber and too may be adjustable. Rear-wheel caster is usually set to
zero and is not adjustable. Rear-wheel caster is usually set to zero and is not adjustable. Various
methods of adjusting rear-wheel camber and toe are described below. Refer to the vehicle service
manual for rear-wheel alignment procedures on specific vehicles.
1. Adjusting Rear-Wheel Camber in some vehicles, camber is adjusted by turning a cam bolt in
the inner end of the lower-control arm or spindle-support rod. On other vehicle, shims placed
between the spindle and the mounting plate provide the camber adjustment.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Figure: Adjusting rear-wheel camber by turning a cam bolt in the inner end of the lower-
control arm, or spindle support rod. (Chevrolet Division of motors Corporation).
Figure: Using shims to adjust rear-wheel camber and toe, adjustments at the left-rear wheel are
shown. (Chrysler Corporation).
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Figure: Adjusting rear wheel toe by (A) adjusting control arm position and (B) shimming the
trailing arms. (Buick Division of General Motors Corporation, Dana Corporation)
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
UNIT – IV
PART – A
Most of the vehicles use the lead-acid battery using separate packs of positive and negative
plates immersed in a solution of sulphuric acid.
The battery must be properly maintained at all times, since any failure of it will put the
vehicle out of action. The various maintenance item for a typical battery are illustrated in the
figure.
The electrolyte solution of the battery is mark by adding gradually 1 volume of commercial
sulphuric acid of 1.835 density to 3 volumes of distilled water to give a final cool solution of check
1.28 to 1.29 density of the electrolyte at fully-charged, half charged and completely, discharged
conditions are 1.28 to 1.29, 1.19 to 1.21 and 1.11 to 1.13 respy: all at 80o F.
The acid density is frequently checked with a hydrometer, which consists of an outer glove
tube, with a rubber to dip into the acid and an inner calibrated glass float to read the acid density.
Lower reading from any one cell of the battery indicates a faulty cell.
The acid level is to be kept just above the top of the plates. If the level drop through
evaporation as in hot weather or through are charging, distilled water n to be used to bring up the
acid level. However if the level falls during charging when the acid is splashed out due to
gassing, or the acid accidentally spilt, fresh acid solution is to be used. When the vehicle is in
used, the battery should be checked and of necessary topped-up every month or so.
2. Draw the cut section view-of a battery and the maintenance activities or each component.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Figure:
Voltage of the battery measured across its terminals cannot indicate the condition of the
battery, under a special form of voltmeter which apphes an electric load by means of shunting
resistance which taken a heavy current discharge for a short time is used. A fully charged battery
cell should read 215 to 2.2 volts otherwise it is defective.
The battery should never be left in a semi-or fully discharged condition for long. It is
advisable to give the battery an occasional charge when the car is not used. Of the vehicle is to be
laid up for a long period, the battery can be stored by the dry method. To do this the battery is
first fully charged and then the electrolyte drained out. The pitch seal is removed with the aid of a
hot iron and the wooden separators taken out, dried and stored in a dry place. The battery plates
are also dried. When the battery is again required, it is reassembled, filled with electrolyte and
charged.
Every twelve months when in normal use, empty out the electrolyte, wash out the
sediments from the sediment wells with distilled water and refill with fresh electrolyte and
charge.
The battery terminates must be kept clean from the corroded products, otherwise it will act
as a insulator. For this terminals can be coated with Vaseline or thick grease.
A white deposit formed on the plates in an indication of the neglect of the battery. This is
due to sulphation, lead sulphate being formed.
Batteries which are not too badly sulphated may often be reconditioned by charging at a
1 1
very low rate from to . Their normal charging current. The charging should be continued
5 10
until the battery begins to gas freely when it should be discharged through high resistance at
1 1
about to ampere rate.
3 4
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Other battery troubles which may occur are internal short circuiting of the plates due to the
breaking away of the paste from the plates and its lodgement between the plates and buckled
plates due to excessive vibration or constant overchanging.
For charging the battery the instructions of the manufacturer are to be strictly followed. A
1
battery in good condition can be given a rapid or boost charge such that it in charged in to 1
2
hour. The acid temperature should not exceed 110o F during this process.
For the regular maintenance of the battery the following equipments, instruments and
materials are required.
4. What are the causes for self state starter not tuning up? Explain briefly.
If the lights become dim or go our when the starter switch is closed, the battery maybe too
weak to operate the starter. In this case a push start is needed. Cars equipped with alternators
cannot be push started if the battery is complete dead because alternators retain no residual
magnetism.
1. Low battery
2. Connections loose, dirty, corroded or broken at battery terminals, starter switch terminal or
battery ground strap.
3. Short circuit across starter terminals.
4. Neutral start switch out of adjustment or defective.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
7. What are the reason excessive starting load causing abnormal current flow from battery.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
8. Write down the steps involved in servicing the ignition system with contact points.
Hard Starting:
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
10. Ignition timing too much Advanced enumerate the starting system problems and their
causes.
1. Internal Deffect of the battery Electrolyte op.gravity under fully discharged 1.28 STP
20 C.
o
Gel Electrolyte
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
3. High Temperature
No change rate
12. Explain all the reasons for engine not starting up.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Grounded primary coil winding grounded ignition switch or a lead will causes wires to
burn.
Due to battery
Accumulation of liquid fuel in the intake manifolds as well cylinder. The engine won’t
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
14. What are the various electrical testing equipments required for an automobile workshop.
Ignition System
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Stroboscope
Trigger is connected to 1st spark plug (cylinder near to radiate)
Timing marker is there for flywheel
As engine speed the frames moves on .
2. Dwell meter:-
3. Voltmeter:-
4. Ammeter:-
5. Ohmmeter:-
1. Voltmeter
2. Ammeter (0-80 Amps).
3. Tachometer
4. Hydrometer
5. Battery load Tester
Hydrometer (To check the specific gravity of Electrolyte for a specific Temp)
Eg.1.28 at 20oC.
Open volt test
Each cell have 2.1 volts
Cadmium Test
High current Test
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
UNIT – V
PART – A
Fuel Tank:
Use proper sealing cap
Every month drain sediments
Every 6 month clean thoroughly,
Check low pressure pipe for leakage
Once a week drain water separator.
Feed Pump:
Filters
Every 5000 km check oil level. Drain excess oil. It level is lows top up with engine oil(only
for independent lub pump)
Every 1,00,000 km replace oil (only for independence lub pump)
Every 500 km clean air breather
Use good quality high pressure pipes.
Problem:
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Engine Overheating:
1. Loss of coolant
2. Defective thermostat
3. Defective water pump
4. Collapsed radiator hose
5. Excessive Rust and seales
6. Obstructed Air passage Through Radiator
7. Late Ignition Timing
8. Combustion leak in to cooling system
9. Improper coolant Mix
10. Defective Temperature Gauge
1. Defective Thermostat
2. Defective Gauge
Carburettor flooding:
Rought Idle:
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
3. Ignition misfire
Sluggish Performance:
Check the coolant level. If it is low min the proper solution of antifreeze and water in an
antifreeze container and fill it to the specified level
Check the strength of antifreeze solution by wing either float hydrometer or a ball
hydrometer.
Float hydrometer:
Place the end of the rubber tube into the coolant sequeeze and release the rubber bulb. The
height of the float indicates the strength of he antifreeze. A thermometer and scale on the
hydrometer shows the temp of the coolant & how low the temp must go before the coolant would
freeze.
Suspend the thermostat in a solution of coolant Heat the coolant to 14 C above the temp
stamped on the thermostat, the thermostat should open. Then subonerge the thermostat
in the same solution after it has cooled to 5.5 C below the temp stamped on the
thermostat. It should close completely. If the thermostat does not open or close properly
replace it.
To check the host, squeeze it. It should not collapse easily. Replace any hose that is soft,
hard, rotted or swollen.
Checking for exhaust gas leakage into Dc Cooling system is done by holding the exhaust
gas analyzer probe over the radiator mouth. If any leakage is there analyzer will detect it.
Another way of checking is by using Bloc- check Tester. Install the tester on the radiator
filler neck. With the engine running, squeeze and release the bulb. This draws on air
sample from the cooling system through the text fluid. The test fluid is blue, if exhaust
gas is present the fluid turns yellow.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Figure:
Fill the radiator to about 13 mm below the bottom of the filler neck. Then wipe the neck
sealing surface and attach the tester. Operate the pump to apply a pressure that doe not exceed 3
PSI above the manufacturer’s specification. If the pressure old standy the system is not leaking. If
the pressure drops, there are leak in the system.
Make a pressure test of the radiator cap using the pressure tester. If the cap hold the
pressure he cap work properly else replace it.
Check the water pump drive belt for small cracks grease, glazing, tears a splits. Replace the
belt if needed.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Pressure check the radiator for any leaks if so the radiator has to be rapaired..
Check the water pump for any noise or leaks. If present replace it. Normally water pump
requires no service
Antifreeze:
To prevent freezing of the water in the cooling system anti freeze is added to form the
coolant
The most commonly used antifreeze is ethylene glygol. A mixture of half water & half
ethylene glycel is the recommended coolang proportion.
The antifreeze coolant performs three basic jobs
Corrosion inhibiter, foam inhibitor are some of the important additives for antifreeze.
There are two types of ethylene –glycol anti freeze, high silicate and low silicate. High
silicate are wed in aluminum cylinder head engineer and low silicate are used in engines
with carrion cylinder block and header
Problems:
Oil –Pressure
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Schedule – I
Schedule – 2
Changing the oil every 12,500 km , if the vehicle is used several km daily and none of the
items in schedule 1. apply.
Change the oil filter with every oil change or every other oil change, according to the
operating conditions.
Whenever oil pan is removed for engine or oil pump service remove all old gasket material
from the gasket surface. The pan and engine block. Check the gasket surface for flatness.
Check the oil pump if badly worn, services the pump or replace it.
Check the pressure relief valve for good operation if not replace it.
Change in oil:
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Place a new maintenance sticker on the vehicle write in the odometer reading, the date,
and the type of oil used.
Oil-Filter Service:
Change the oil filter wire every oil change or every other oil change according to the
operating conditions. Most filter are unscrewed and a new filer installed by hand. You may need
an oil-filter wrench to loosen the old filter. Clean the filter mount and recess with a clean shop
towel. Make sure the old filter sealing gasket does not remain on the ( ) coat the sealing gasket on
the new filter wire oil. Then install the new filter tighter it until the gasket contacts the filter base
on the ( )
Whenever the oil pan is removed for ( ) or oil pump service, clean the pan, oil pick up and
oil pump. Remove all old gasket material from the gasket surfaces on the pan and block. Check
the gasket surfaces of a sheet- metal pan for flatness. Over tightened screws raise the metal
around the screw holes. This can prevent sealing of the new gasket. Top the holes lightly with a
hammer until the gasket surface are flat.
All blows are made by swinging with a wrist action in a circular motion, rather than a follow
through as used when driving a Nail.
In all dinging operation the hammer blows should be spaced approximately 6 to 10 mm a parts
and in rows one besides the other approximately 100 to 100 blows are made / per minute.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
In dinging operations the dolly is placed inside of the damaged panel and held against its, surface
by pressure exerted by the foe arm.
Choose a dolly with the same slightly smaller radius than the curvature of the sheet metal being
repaired.
The general purpose dolly is placed in the damaged flange (r what is left only) and a downward
as well as outward pressure is applied on the dolly.
The flange is formed or reshaped by on the dolly hammering starting at the outer edge of the
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
flange gradually working towards its inner edges as indicated by arrows until it is perfectly round
and smooth.
The dolly is held tightly underneath the centre line of the already marked off metal and it is
hammered until slightly structed. The outer edge and ends of the bead are then formed by
alternate off the dolly hammering using the square face of a bumping or balanced dinging
hammer.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Drive forest of evaporation of the reducer. The carrier is oxidized & polymerized from the
sun so chemical reaction takes place.
They retaints its fully glow and need not be polished
They are usually soft, they require longer driver and insoluble to ordinary solvent.
There are usually soft because they require longer time to dry insolution to ordinary solvent.
Rubbing components:-
A Air gap
B Fluid tip
C fluid Needle
D Trigger
E Fluid adjustment screen
F Air valve
G --. Spreader adjustment valve
H Gun body
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
When spraying a panel use alternate right & left strokes triggering the gun at the
beginning and end of each strake the spray pattern should overlap one-half the previous stroke for
smooth coverage without streaks.
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
13. Draw the different types of tools use din body denting / Tinkering
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology
General purpose dolly Low crown really Head dolly Toe dolly
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Fatima Michael College of Engineering & Technology