Professional Documents
Culture Documents
By Jessica Brown
19 September 2018
It’s hard to imagine now, but there was a time when humans
only had access to sugar for a few months a year when fruit
was in season. Some 80,000 years ago, hunter-gatherers ate
fruit sporadically and infrequently, since they were competing
with birds.
Now, our sugar hits come all year round, often with less
nutritional value and far more easily – by simply opening a soft
drink or cereal box. It doesn’t take an expert to see that our
modern sugar intake is less healthy than it was in our foraging
days. Today, sugar has become public health enemy number
one: governments are taxing it, schools and hospitals are
removing it from vending machines and experts are advising
that we remove it completely from our diets.
But so far, scientists have had a difficult time proving how it
affects our health, independent of a diet too high in calories.
There is also a growing argument that demonising a single food
is dangerous – and causes confusion that risks us cutting out
vital foods.
Sugar, otherwise known as ‘added sugar’, includes table sugar,
sweeteners, honey and fruit juices, and is extracted, refined
and added to food and drink to improve taste.
The term ‘sugar’ includes a broad array of sweeteners,
including the fructose naturally found in fruit
But sugar is actually a broad term for both complex and simple
carbohydrates, which are broken down by digestion into
glucose and used by every cell in the body to generate energy
and fuel the brain. Complex carbohydrates include wholegrains
and vegetables. Simple carbohydrates are more easily digested
and quickly release sugar into the bloodstream. They include
sugars found naturally in the foods we eat, such as
fructose, lactose, sucrose and glucose and others, like high
fructose corn syrup, which are manmade.
Before the 16th Century only the rich could afford sugar. But it
became more available with colonial trade.
Then, in the 1960s, the development of large-scale conversion
of glucose into fructose led to the creation of high fructose corn
syrup, a concentrate of glucose and fructose.
This potent combination, above any other single type of sugar,
is the one many public health advocates consider the most
lethal – and it is the one that many people think of when they
think of ‘sugar’.
Sugar rush
Consumption of high fructose corn syrup in the US increased
tenfold between 1970 and 1990, more than any other food
group. Researchers have pointed out that this mirrors the
increase in obesity across the country. This may be because
high fructose corn syrup, unlike other foods, doesn’t lead to a
rise in leptin – a hormone which helps us feel full.
For one, it’s said to cause heart disease. When liver cells break
down fructose, one of the end products is triglyceride – a form
of fat – which can build up in liver cells over time. When it is
released into the bloodstream, it can contribute to the growth
of fat-filled plaque inside artery walls.
Fructose, which naturally occurs in fruit and is a key component
of high-fructose corn syrup, can contribute to the growth of
plaque in arteries
One 15-year study seemed to back this up: it found that people
who consumed 25% or more of their daily calories as added
sugar were more than twice as likely to die from heart
disease than those who consumed less than 10%. Type 2
diabetes also is attributed to added sugar intake. Two large
studies in the 1990s found that women who consumed more
than one soft drink or fruit juice per day were twice as likely to
develop diabetes as those who rarely did so.
Sweet nothings?
But again, it’s unclear if that means sugar actually causes heart
disease or diabetes. Luc Tappy, professor of physiology at the
University of Lausanne, is one of many scientists who argue
that the main cause of diabetes, obesity and high blood
pressure is excess calorie intake, and that sugar is simply one
component of this.
Many scientists believe that sugar alone doesn’t cause obesity –
but that, instead, sugar often is part of a diet with too high of a
calorie intake in general
One study found that consuming two juice drinks per day aged
the brain by two years, compared to not drinking any
“People who drink more fruit juice or soft drinks may share
other dietary or lifestyle habits that relate to brain health. For
example, they may also exercise less,” Pase says.
Teaspoon of sugar
While current guidelines advise that added sugars shouldn't
make up more than 5% of our daily calorie intake, dietitian
Renee McGregor says it’s important to understand that a
healthy, balanced diet is different for everyone.
“I work with athletes who need to take on more sugar when
doing a hard session because it’s easily digestible. But they
worry they’re going over the guidelines,” she says.
For most of us non-athletes, it’s true that added sugar isn’t
crucial for a healthy diet. But some experts warn we shouldn’t
single it out as toxic.
McGregor, whose clients include those with orthorexia, a
fixation with eating healthily, says that it isn’t healthy to label
foods as ‘good’ or ‘bad’. And turning sugar into a taboo may
only make it more tempting. “As soon as you say you can’t
have something, you want it,” she says. “That’s why I never
say anything is off-limits. I’ll say a food has no nutritional
value. But sometimes foods have other values.”