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JUNE 2020 £4.50 987 model spares 2002-2013 models Second-gen 1.2
 Editorial
Lockdown tasks
X For some readers, it’s business as
usual. For others, it might mean we have
a bit more spare time on our hands
during this virus pandemic period.
A therapeutic task (for me) is to tinker
with one or two of my car fleet. First,
though, the lawn needed its first cut. The
Hyundai petrol mower was dragged from
the shed and the rechargeable electric-
start battery put on charge for a few
hours. With the fuel tank topped, the fuel
primer operated by hand a few times, it
failed to start. More hand priming and it
still wouldn’t fire. So I fetched Sarah to
operate the start-key while I pushed on
the primer – it worked! It’s a 173cc OHV
four-stroke engine and self-propelled.
However, the rear-wheel belt has come
off – and even though I’ve put it back
on, it has come off again. Further
investigation is required. Grass cutting
didn’t take that long, mainly because
most of the grass is now covered in cars!
I sold a Nissan Qashqai to my
neighbour – we serviced it in CM in the
January 2020 issue. However, after
a week of ownership, the tailgate
handle fell-off in her hand. Not a
problem I said, leave it with me. This is
a common Qashqai quirk and a fix from
X8R (x8r.co.uk) was bought for £18.99
delivered. I received this product back
in November 2019, so with the Qashqai
now sat idle on her driveway it was time
to execute a repair. There’s an excellent
video on the X8R website giving full
I taped the rear handle to the tailgate
to stop it falling off six months ago.
The repair patches are
fused to the original plastic
handle base with Acetone.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
Martyn Knowles, Editor
Email: martyn.knowles@bauermedia.co.uk
Follow us on Facebook @ Car Mechanics
fitment details. With the exterior of
this Qashqai in a hue of Nightshade (a
dark aubergine, although the logbook
says black), I’d applied black tape to
keep the boot handle in place. Some six
months on, I was a tad worried the tape
would be permanently stuck – it wasn’t,
the tape I had used was low-tack and
did a good job of staying in place what
with all that rain we had.
The fixing repair consists of two new
plastic patch repairs that the locating
bolts sit in. The kit comes with a small
Acetone bottle. You use a paint brush
to apply the Acetone over the area that
the new patch sits and also the base of
new plastic repair, then clamp together
and wait a couple of hours.
The job didn’t go exactly as planned
– I poured the Acetone into the bag
supplied and that had a small hole in
the bottom – I had to run back into the
kitchen to fetch a bowl and lost half
of it. I managed to attach one patch
repair with three clamps. When it came
to do the other side, the remaining
Acetone had dried-out! eBay came to
the rescue – £2.99 for 30ml delivered.
With the second patch repair fixed on
and the clamps in place I took it into
the sun to get some photos – a little tip
here – don’t leave it in the sun too long
otherwise the repair patches start to
distort/melt!
If you have a lockdown repair report
to tell us about, please email me…
There’s six plastic
fixings that don’t
last – this one had
snapped-off, with
the top one shown
here still just in situ.
Job done. You don’t need to apply
Acetone near the edge of the
handle so there’s little chance of it
getting onto the painted surface.
Can’t
get to
the shops?
X Although the magazine is readily
available from most supermarkets
and other outlets – we know
that finding a copy of CM can be
difficult for some, especially those
still in lockdown at home. However,
there are three easy ways to buy
your favourite motoring magazine:
1 Buy the latest print issue.
2 Download a digital issue.
3 Take out a subscription.
Visit our website at
carmechanicsmag.co.uk/
how-to-buy for options on getting
a copy of Car Mechanics today.
Plus: see page 88 for a superb
subscription deal – get TWO years
of CM for the price of ONE!
Model for sale
X Long-term CM reader, Karl
Sheridan asked if he could place
a classified in the next issue.
Unfortunately, we have had to
drop the Classified ‘Free Ads’
section for a limited period – so
I offered Karl a position on this
page to sell his home-made
model. You may remember we ran
a feature on Karl’s models in the
February 2014 issue... Karl says:
Unique 1/43rd scale representation
of Barry Cade’s Shell garage: Fully
detailed inside with a ramp, press,
tools & oil drums. External detail
with BMC sign, diecast pumps, old
exhausts, oil stains etc. 12.5 x 9.5”
mounted on wooden base. Models
not inc: supplied with certificate.
Pure nostalgia! £120 plus P&P.
Contact Karl at: karlsheridan123@
btinternet.com for extra photos
or 01430 861636.
June 2020 pCar Mechanics 3
 SUBSCRIBE
Contents GET TWO YEARS
OF CM FOR THE
PRICE OF ONE!
SEE
PAGE
FEATURES 84 88
6 Top-end cleaning 60 DIY Servicing:
Focusing on the ‘dry’ side of Fiat Panda 1.2 petrol
the engine, we look at curing
potential contamination. 79 Electronic Diagnostics:
36 MINI Cooper S Rob Hawkins services the editor’s Peugeot
Peugeot 107 1.0
107 in his home garage during lockdown.
intercooler upgrades
Fitting the supercharged R53 REGULARS
and turbocharged R56 with BUYING
bigger intercoolers. 18 CM Insider
News and new products.
40 Worldwide MOTs 48 Survival Guide:
How do other countries operate Porsche Cayman 46 Dealer’s Diary
the vehicle checking service. Hard-top Boxster arrived in 2006
– we locate places to buy spares. 66 Help!
44 Interior cleaning Your motoring problems sorted.
How to avoid Coronavirus 50 Used Car Focus:
contamination in your vehicle. Mitsubishi Colt 76 Diagnostics Doctor
Looking at the 2002-2013 models.
57 Car Security 84 Our Cars
During lockdown Rob Hawkins
With theft on the rise, what can WORKSHOP tackles a full service in his home
you do to keep your vehicle safe?
garage, while Rob Marshall
22 Tales from the Workshop fettles bodywork on the driveway.
PROJECTS Real-life workshop problems,
and how they were fixed. 90 In My Humble Opinion
30 Audi A4 Cabriolet 1.8T Mike pays homage to the
Part three: Renewing a front wheel 54 Back To Basics: unlikeliest cars you could
bearing and braking system. Brake discs and pads possibly miss after selling.

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INS TA N T E X P E R T

Keeping a
clear head
Contamination costs
money. Focusing on
Modern engines are prone to deposits building between the air filter and
engine inlet valve. As with most issues, prevention is better than cure.

the ‘dry’ side of the

engine, Rob Marshall
looks at the problems
it causes and the
options available to
effect a cure.

C
oping with the residues that
remain after burning petrol and
diesel in car engines has always
been a challenge. As vehicles
age, these deposits can accumulate
and, at best, raise fuel consumption and
exhaust emissions. Due to the process
being gradual and invisible, the driver
tends not to notice until the car fails
an MOT, an engine management lamp
illuminates, or a breakdown occurs.
Detergents in modern engine oils
assist in dislodging and holding this
harmful contamination in suspension,
until the next oil change drains them
out. Should the recommended service
intervals be excessive, or skipped –or if
the car experiences regular short trips –
the oil can become over-saturated with
deposits, causing them to fall out of the
lubricant, to form a tar-like sludge.
As this is such a hot topic, CM’s
February 2020 issue focused on how
to keep the lubrication system in good
health, while our April 2020 edition
on turbochargers explained how a
weakened lubrication system can cause
severe and expensive mechanical failure.
While the in-depth article on these
pages references the lubrication system,
it focuses more on keeping the intake
manifold, cylinderhead inlet ports,
exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system
and turbocharger clean.
The dirty secret
Apart from residual moisture within the
filtered air that is drawn into the engine,
it may be thought that the intake manifold
especially would remain perfectly clean
until the car is scrapped. In practice,
intake contamination is a growing
problem. A root cause is the crankcase
breather. In our imperfect world, ‘blow-
by’ gases leak past the engine’s piston
rings and certain constituents of the
engine oil vapourise as the lubricant ages.
These oily fumes have to go somewhere
and, because environmental legislation
dictates that they must not vent into the
atmosphere, the only option is to direct
them into the engine for burning.
Most engines employ ‘positive
crankcase ventilation’ (PCV), where the
engine crankcase is connected to the
intake manifold via a pipe and, in most
cases, a PCV valve. The gases, however,
introduce oil vapour to the inlet. When
a thin film becomes deposited within
the tract, the oil’s sticky viscosity
improvers attract contaminations from
the airstream, causing them to build.
For engines that direct an excessive
quantity of oil into the inlet (either
through poor design, or excessive
wear), the aftermarket parts industry
has developed catch-cans that separate
some of the oil from these blow-by gases.
These are not always totally effective
at preventing viscosity improvers from
coating the inside surfaces of the air
intake and consider that modifying the
crankcase ventilation system to exhale
into the surrounding air is not only
illegal but could also be dangerous.
Yet, to reduce temperatures within
the combustion chambers and lower
NOx pollution, exhaust gas recirculation
(EGR) valves introduce a further
complication. As their name implies,
they regulate dirty exhaust gases into
the inlet, the soot content from which
binds to the viscosity improvers within
the intake. As the contamination
builds, the intake becomes restricted,
the engine can draw in less air, and

6 Car Mechanics p June 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 TOP-END CLEANING

A valuable way to discover the extent of
contamination is to remove and inspect a
sensor, should one be mounted to either the
throttle body, or intake. The clogged state of
this air temperature sensor means that the
engine will not be receiving accurate data
and that intake cleaning is necessary.
SIGNS OF
CONTAMINATION
Not all of these faults happen
together, so check for
contamination, even if a single
symptom presents itself.
X Loss of power, especially when
driving at higher speed
X Poor acceleration
X Stalling, juddering
and/or misfiring
X Rough running
X Increased fuel consumption
X Reduced fuel efficiency
X Engine warning light illuminated
You can clean such sensors manually but
X Engine management light
they tend to be very delicate. Generally,
aerosol cans of carburettor, or brake illuminated (often when the
cleaner, can be used. Some companies sell engine fuel-trim compensation
a dedicated intake cleaner solution, which exceeds 25% on GDIs)
tends not to leave any residue behind.

effectively suffocates. Should swirl-flaps
be fitted within the inlet manifold, their
movement can be restricted, which can
cause mechanical damage. As modern
diesel engines possess throttle bodies
(to assist with EGR operation and DPF
regeneration), sensors, motors and flaps
can also become coated with the sludgy
deposits, which affect their operation.
Sludged-up engine inlet valves can also
have their movements restricted.
Directly affected:
modern engines
Even though older petrol engines
possessed PCV systems (with many of
them lacking a separate valve), their
intakes remained relatively clean. As
air entered the carburettor almost
immediately after passing through the
air filter, the air and fuel mixture would
enter the air intake together. Petrol is
an effective solvent, so any lingering
oil from the crankcase ventilation
system would be washed into the engine
cylinder and burnt.
Fuel injection presents a slightly
different challenge. Early multipoint
versions relied on ‘indirect’, or ‘port’
injection, where the injector was
positioned behind the inlet valve,
allowing some fuel to be washed over the
valve and intake, cleansing them of most
deposits. In a bid to reduce CO2 output
and boost engine efficiency, the fuel
injector was repositioned directly into
the combustion chamber: direct injection
was born. While direct-injection (DI)
diesel engines have been around for some
time in motor car applications, gasoline
direct injection (GDI) for petrols became
popular from the mid-2000s.
Unfortunately, relocating the fuel
injector removed the cleaning effect
within the intake. GDI and DI engines,
therefore, are more prone to dirty and
partially blocked intakes, compared to
their port-injected predecessors. The
higher temperatures experienced by
GDI engines bakes the contamination
into a rubbery-type deposit, contrasted
with the oily sludge found more
commonly on diesels.

FUEL INJECTOR

INTAKE VALVE
Traditionally, additives that discouraged deposits within the fuel
system were dosed into the fuel tank as a periodic preventative
measure. Removing carbon from the engine dictated treating it
more directly, by pouring it into the intake of a running engine. Many
modern treatments work in the same way – but read the instructions Traditionally on petrol engines, the fuel injector (labelled) has been
thoroughly. Diesels especially are vulnerable to severe engine damage positioned behind the intake valve (labelled), the fuel from which
from ‘hydrolocking’, caused by ingesting excessive quantities of liquid. offers a cleaning benefit before being burnt.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 7

TOP-END CLEANING
FUEL INJECTOR
Gasoline direct injection (GDI) presents new challenges for injector cleaners, due to the fuel
injectors being exposed to relatively high levels of soot during the combustion process, in
addition to higher temperatures and pressures.
Addressing the faults
Fuel additives, dosed into the fuel
tank, have been sold for decades as
a preventative measure and a fault
curer. Some are effective, others less
so; and there are no standardised
technical requirements to monitor their
performance. Marketing claims and
anecdotal evidence (neither of which
can claim to be totally independent, or
scientific) tend to be the best you'll find.
Accurate testing and appraisal
of additives is problematic and can
generate inconclusive results. This does
not mean that all additives are mere
placebos. Contamination has become
a genuine problem in recent years and
companies have worked hard to create
cost-effective chemical preventatives
in favour of expensive stripdowns.
However, you should manage your
expectations accordingly.
Research carefully what you want any
additive product to achieve and buy a
well-established brand from a trusted
Fuel injector spray patterns ensure optimal atomisation and ideal
mixing with the air. Deposits on, or within, the injector nozzle affects
the pattern negatively, upsetting combustion efficiency and resulting
in further contamination.
8 Car Mechanics p June 2020
INLET VALVE
LOCATION
supplier. In use, follow the instructions
carefully, especially concerning dosing
instructions. Using more additive
than recommended could be counter-
productive and may even be harmful.
Consider also that some brands
have ‘consumer’ and ‘professional’
formulations. Products geared towards
professional garages may be stronger
but are also less tolerant of you making
a mistake. For example, pouring a
consumer-focused diesel additive into
a petrol vehicle may not cause damage.
Doing the same with a professional
product may not be so forgiving.
For this article, we have chosen to
partner predominately with the Dutch
additive manufacturer, JLM Lubricants.
Sold in the UK by the well-respected
Kalimex Ltd (probably known best for
its K-seal coolant leak repair additive),
it offers several unique propositions.
To our knowledge, it is the first
company to offer a fuel injector cleaner,
dedicated solely to GDI petrol engines.
As GDI injectors are exposed directly to
As deteriorated oil helps to promote deposits in the intake, an oil flush
additive is recommended prior to changing the lubricant on modern
engines. It's important to read operating instructions.
ROB’S TOP TIP
Always read the labels
and heed dosing
instructions with any
fuel tank additive.
PREVENTATIVE
MAINTENANCE
X Change the oil according to the
manufacturer’s recommended
change intervals and use
a lubricant that meets the
manufacturer’s specification,
which tends to include
standards on intake fouling
(both diesel and petrol).
X Replace spark plugs at the
recommended mileage to
maintain optimum combustion
and note the fitting instructions
on GDI engines especially (petrol).
X Use a premium-quality fuel
(whether diesel or petrol).
X Add a fuel system and injector
cleaner (for diesel and petrol).
X Consider periodic cleaning of
the intake system (both diesel
and petrol).
not only the heat but also the by-products
of combustion, contaminations become
baked on to the injector tip. These block
the fine holes (each of which possesses
a smaller diameter than a human hair)
and alter the spray pattern, causing
incomplete combustion, higher fuel use
and a potential MOT emissions failure.
JLM Lubricants told CM that, because
it found that traditional injector cleaners
were not up to the challenges presented
by modern GDI technology, it developed
its own formulation. Laboratory tests
at the Millbrook Proving Ground in
Bedfordshire in 2019 showed that JLM’s
GDI Injector Cleaner is effective at
not only removing and inhibiting fuel
injector contamination within an hour,
but also particulate emissions. This
latter point is one reason why deposit
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
 TOP-END CLEANING
levels within the intake manifold and
VARIABLE
behind the inlet valves were shown VALVE
not to have increased during the tests, GEOMETRY
because of the reduced soot levels
introduced via the EGR valve.
While various garages offer professional
intake cleaning services, JLM Lubricants
is the first company (as far as we could
find) to offer a DIY method that is safe
for both user and engine, provided you
heed the user instructions.
Not only can it be bought outright, but
Kalimex is also seeking out motor factors
to offer a hire service. Turbocharger
vanes can
become clogged
THANKS GO TO: with carbon, which
Cheltenham and Gloucester causes them either
Autocentre to seize, or damage their
Gloucester Road, Staverton Bridge, actuators. Additives that
Cheltenham GL51 0TF. remove the carbon survive
cgautocentre.co.uk the combustion process
service@cgautocentre.co.uk and coat the carbon
Carol Langbridge Martyn Langbridge particles, encouraging
Nick Newman Mike Schlup them to burn at lower
temperatures.

EGR CLEANING
X Not being exposed to oil residue (unless the engine is
worn severely), the EGR valve becomes contaminated with
more stubborn carbon deposits, which are different to the
sludgy contamination that is found typically within diesel
intakes. If you are seeking preventative maintenance, it is
worth investigating an EGR cleaner spray, which is directed
into the air intake, while the engine is running.
However, EGR valves wear-out mechanically and so cleaning
a faulty part on an engine that has covered over 80,000 miles
may be pointless. Also, weigh up the time and cost implications
of removing, cleaning and refitting an aged EGR valve
manually, which could still be faulty, compared to renewing it.
For more information on EGR valves, check-out our August
2019 back issue.

Ensure that the engine is warmed-up
A1 by taking it for a drive of at least five
miles and letting it idle afterwards, until the
electrical cooling fan (if fitted) is activated,
before switching the engine off.
Identify the EGR valve’s location
A2 and its circuit. The one from this
Mercedes B180 diesel is not especially
accessible, being situated beneath the
airbox on top of the engine.
In many cases, you will be unable to
A3 access the EGR valve directly to spray
cleaner into it. Look for the closest pipe
that leads to the valve, situated between the
turbocharger and the intake manifold.

W Never spray EGR cleaner into the

A4 air filter, or intercooler. It can form
a ‘pool’ that can be sucked into the engine
during a road-test, risking ‘hydrolocking’
that may damage the engine’s internal parts
irreparably. The MAF sensor (pictured) can
also be ruined by being contaminated with
the solvent.
X The throttle body on this
A5 Mercedes B-Class diesel bolts
directly to the EGR valve behind the engine.
Here, the throttle body was removed for
manual cleaning but the owner did not
want the dirty (but operational) EGR valve
renewing. With this throttle body removed,
the EGR can be inspected.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 9

TOP-END CLEANING ROB’S
TOP TIP
Wear gloves and
goggles when handling
EGR CLEANING CONTINUED any chemicals.

This EGR is vacuum-operated, so

A6 its hose is disconnected from the
stub (arrowed). Some designs are operated
electrically, so disconnect the multi-plug
which ensures that the valve remains shut
throughout the operation – although an engine
management fault light may illuminate.
To enable this engine to be started
A7 and run at idle speed, the throttle
body had to be refitted. In many cases, you
will have to spray the additive into the EGR
valve via a plastic/rubber air hose, noting
the risks described in step A3.
While access is tight, it was possible
A8 to get the aerosol near the throttle
body on this car and direct the spray into
it, using the extension tube. The duration of
spray shouldn’t exceed a one- or two-second
spurt. Read the product’s instructions.

The engine rpm can increase/
A9 decrease and some diesel ‘knock’ may
occur from within the combustion chambers.
This is due to the change in air/fuel ratio,
as well as the fluid and any loosened carbon
deposits being burnt.
Should the engine speed decrease
A10 considerably, apply very gentle
pressure to the accelerator pedal but do
not exceed 2000rpm. Should diesel ‘knock’
occur, resist increasing the engine speed. The
product’s instructions should include advice.
After each one- or two-second-long
A11 application, let the engine stabilise
back to idle speed before repeating the
process. In this case, JLM Lubricants says
that you can stop, once you have used half of
the aerosol can’s contents.

W Let the engine run for a further

A12 two minutes, before reassembling
the air intakes and any other removed parts.
Reset any fault codes, if necessary, and note
that the engine management warning lamp
has extinguished.

X After the reassembly process,

A13 restart the engine and either drive it
3-5 miles, or accelerate the engine 5-10 times
from idle speed to 2500rpm. Smoke may
not emerge from the exhaust should a diesel
particulate filter (DPF) be fitted, because the
filter will trap the carbon particles.

W X A longer, high-speed
A14 drive may be needed to
facilitate a passive DPF regeneration.
Note that on-car EGR cleaning can
be a gamble. On this car, we took
the throttle body off the engine
afterwards to see how much carbon
had been shifted from the EGR valve.
At first glance, not much difference
appeared to have been made in this
extreme example, although closer
inspection revealed that it has
removed the top layers of deposit.
This emphasises the procedure Continued
on page
BEFORE CLEANING as being more of a preventative AFTER CLEANING
maintenance treatment. 12

10 Car Mechanics p June 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

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TOP-END CLEANING ROB’S TOP TIP
Regular servicing and
using good-quality branded

CRUSHED WALNUT SHELL BLASTING oil and fuel are good

preventative measures.

X While removing and cleaning the inlet manifold is
feasible within a DIY environment, taking the cylinderhead
off to remove contaminations is less appealing. Certain
main dealerships and independent garages have adopted
a method of directing relatively soft crushed walnut shells
into the cylinderhead under pressure, with the inlet valves
closed, to dislodge the deposit prior to vacuuming the
remnants out. The procedure is remarkably effective.
Car Mechanics featured the detailed operation in our
March 2016 issue.

DIY INTAKE CLEANING (DIESEL)

X While the spray aerosol method is a relatively quick
procedure, the engine must combust the additive, which can
cause aggressive diesel ‘knock’.
JLM Lubricants’ gentler alternative is its Diesel Extreme
Clean Toolkit Pro. Costing £270 (including VAT), plus £70 for
the chemicals needed for each treatment, bundle deals and
a rental service for garages and DIYers are being considered.
Having seen a previous demonstration about how easy
the kit is to use, Car Mechanics is the first magazine to
assess its effectiveness. The kit is intended for diesels only,
because GDI petrol engines do not generate a sufficiently
strong vacuum in their intakes.

Pictured is the JLM Intake Extreme Optimal flow of the chemicals is

B1
Clean kit with the required chemicals
for a single treatment. Because long periods
of engine idling are essential, the car should
not be run in an enclosed space, due to the
dangerous build-up of exhaust gases.
B2 The chemicals are introduced directly
through the inlet manifold air intake,
where the airstream ensures full dispersion.
Intake sizes vary, so two different diameters
of venturi discs are supplied with the tool.
B3
required throughout the procedure.
With a new kit, make two marks on the
translucent plastic tube, 12cm apart.
Electrical tape is pictured but you may
wish to use a permanent marker pen.

W To access the engine,

B4 remove the engine cover.
You may also need to dismount
the undertray, so you can access
the sump plug and drain the oil
out at the end of the procedure.
X Check that the oil
B5 level rests between
the minimum and maximum
marks. A level that is too high
may indicate excessive diesel
presence and a DPF regeneration
problem. Check also that the
coolant level is correct and run
the engine until it reaches its
normal operating temperature.

12 Car Mechanics p June 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 TOP-END CLEANING

Follow the advice detailed in step A4.
B6 You may need to disconnect the MAF
sensor on some cars that require a MAF
signal when the engine is started.
Turn the engine off. Here, the
B7 pipe between the intercooler and
throttle body is disconnected. Note that air
temperature and turbocharger boost sensors
(arrowed) are mounted to this throttle body.
With the intake pipe removed, wipe-out
B8 any light oil residues, or even possible
sludge, that may have built-up inside the
throttle body. Avoid touching any delicate
sensors, should they be present.

W The throttle body was not much

B10 better. Note that the air temperature
sensor is caked in sludge, meaning that the
engine management will not be able to adjust
the fuelling accurately in response to the
quantity of oxygen available.

We removed the throttle body for a

B9 closer look inside the inlet manifold. A vacuum-operated EGR valve is
JLM Lubricants recommends that this level
B11 pictured in step A6; this car has an
of contamination dictates that the manifold electrically operated version, positioned
be removed and cleaned manually. However, behind the engine. The connector is removed
we decided to proceed. so that the valve remains closed.

Connect an airline and maintain the

B12 Shake the first bottle of cleaning
fluid vigorously, before pouring the
entire contents into the toolkit’s metal-
bodied reservoir. Verify that the reservoir is
clean inside before you do so.
B13 Screw the reservoir into its top,
which incorporates the valve body,
ensuring that there is an air-tight seal. Note
that the unit is suspended by a hook on the
bonnet catch.
B14
pressure at 6-8 BAR. Although we
found that our engine generated sufficient
vacuum to ensure a good flow of fluid
without using the airline, this may not be
the case in every situation.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 13

TOP-END CLEANING
ROB’S TOP TIP
In severe cases,
dismantling and
DIY INTAKE CLEANING (DIESEL) CONTINUED manual cleaning may
be the only option.

Start the engine and place a suitably
B15 sized venturi disc (see step B2)
directly over the air intake. The suction from
the engine is sufficiently powerful to hold
the disc in place, but it will fall off when you
switch the engine off.
You will need to adjust the incoming
B16 air pressure (the valve for which is
pictured being adjusted inset) and the flow
screw (arrowed) to ensure that the fluid
takes approximately 10 seconds to flow
12cm down the tube (see step B3).
After about 25 minutes (ours
B17 actually took closer to 40 minutes),
the milky cleaning fluid should have been
used up. Switch-off the engine, disconnect
the airline, close the valves on the tool and
retrieve the venturi disc.

Shake the second bottle of flushing

B18 solution and pour the entire
contents into the toolkit’s reservoir. There is
no need to rinse-out any lingering cleaning
solution from the reservoir, or pipes.
Reattach the reservoir to its valve Restart the engine and let it settle
B19 body again. As before, the seal made B20 back to idling speed. Never depress
must be airtight. Always wear gloves and eye the accelerator pedal while the cleaning
protection throughout the procedure. operation is carried out.

W Place the venturi disc

B21 back over the air intake
again. The flushing process takes
a little longer. JLM Lubricants
says around 30-35 minutes but we
needed a bit more time.
X You will have to
B22 readjust the flow rate
again, which remains the same
as before: 10 seconds per 12cm
of travel down the clear tube. We
noticed some air bubbles – which
helped us determine this, because
the flushing fluid is transparent.

W When the fluid has been

B23 consumed, disconnect
the tool. Allow the engine to idle
for a further 30 minutes before
switching it off and reassembling
any dismounted parts, including the
EGR valve’s electrical connector.

X JLM Lubricants
B24 recommends that the car
is road-tested for six miles. For the
first mile, keep the engine speed
below 2000rpm; the next two miles
between 2-3000rpm; then higher
revs for the remaining distance.

14 Car Mechanics p June 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 TOP-END CLEANING

B25 The toolkit can be rinsed-out with
warm water to remove any lingering
fluid. Do not forget to flush-out the tube
and allow it to dry. Remove any oily deposits
from the venturi disc.
After the work is completed, JLM
B26
Lubricants advises that an oil flush
additive is used not only to keep any new
deposits from the procedure suspended
in the oil, but also to loosen any stubborn
contaminations from the oil system.
The oil and filter are replaced. Do
B27
not fill the oil to the maximum mark
on the dipstick; add only the stated sump
capacity because some space may be needed
for diesel contamination, which tends to be a
consequence of passive DPF regenerations.

W X We wanted
B28 to evaluate JLM
Intake Extreme Clean,
so we dismounted the
throttle body. We were
impressed that at least
90% of the original sludgy
deposit had been removed,
as these ‘before and after’
photos clearly illustrate.

W X The result
B29 within the
inlet manifold was not
as obvious. While the
deposits have reduced
somewhat in size, further
actions are necessary
to clean out the thick
build-up of oily sludge.
Consider also if you want
this quantity of deposit to
pass through the engine.

The only effective way to clean

B30 this badly contaminated inlet is to
remove the manifold altogether. Thankfully,
these modern, plastic designs are not too
tricky to take apart. Note that you need to
buy replacement gaskets and seals. This
moulding includes the camshaft cover.
EGR cleaner spray works well to
B31 shift heavy deposits. However, it
may be more cost- and time-effective to pay
a garage to soak the inlet manifold in a parts
cleaner, or find a company that specialises
in ultrasonic cleaning.
Should you decide to clean the inlet
B32 manifold at home, old toothbrushes
and pipe-cleaners are useful tools to have.
Prior to refitting, ensure that all traces of
solvent have evaporated.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 15

TOP-END CLEANING

CARBON CLEANING ADDITIVES

Choose any product carefully, More concentrated additives can be

C1 Aavailable.
huge range of in-tank additives are
The main reasons for using
quality additives is to clear lacquers and
contaminations around the fuel injectors that
prevent optimum fuel injector spray patterns.
C2
especially where claims are made
about cleaning the intake system, although
be aware that some additives survive the
combustion process to clean emission
control systems, such as particulate filters.
C3
dosed into the fuel filter housing on
diesel engines to help avoid dismantling in
the event of a fault. Firstly, disconnect the
low-pressure hoses from the filter housing
and plug them to prevent dirt ingress.

In many cases, it will be necessary to
C4 drain the fuel filter of diesel before you
lift the filter out. Consult your car’s workshop
manual. Because this filter was dirty and due
for replacement, it would have been pointless
not to have fitted a replacement.
Should the filter be reused, empty it
C5 of any diesel and tighten the drain
screws. To reduce risking spillages, the fuel
filter is placed inside the filter housing and
the pictured additive is then poured into the
filter itself.
The filter housing cover is reunited
C6 with the housing and all diesel lines
and electrical connectors refitted. Bleed
the system if necessary, before starting the
engine and ensuring it idles evenly, prior to
going on a test-drive.

X Should cleaning
C7 additives not resolve a
particular fault and you wish
Costs
to use a garage, always inform J02280 JLM Diesel Intake Cleaning Toolkit £270
them of which pour-in additives J02285 JLM Diesel Intake Cleaning Fluids (Step 1 and 2) £70
you have added. While some J02330 JLM Rapid Diesel Fuel System Cleaner £13.61
of them may not respond well
J02710 JLM Diesel/Petrol Air Intake EGR Spray £10
to being mixed with another
product, overdosing DPF J04835 JLM Engine Oil Flush £11.28
regenerator aids can cause Order from: jlmlubricants.com
overheating and potential (an online shop for the UK is due to go live shortly)
vehicle fires – so you don't enquiries@kalimex.co.uk or 0800 783 3717
want a mechanic adding more.

GARAGE SERVICES
X Engine contamination has become so common that garages
are offering cleansing services either as a preventative measure
at service time, or to remove as much contamination as possible
after fixing a fault, without invasive dismantling. Forté Power-Clean
and the BG Platinum Fuel System Services are typical examples
that also introduce chemical cleaners into the inlet, using specialist
machines that are available strictly to the motor trade.
FlexFuel Energy Development’s HY-carbon cleaner machine
(flexfuel-company.co.uk/dealer-map) replaces chemicals with
hydrogen made from distilled water. The company claims that the
hydrogen ‘softens’ and breaks down the carbon build-up.
We hope to examine these different professional treatments
more closely in a future issue.

16 Car Mechanics p June 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 W IN !
nni m ize
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A Yi raphed
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 CM Insider
Ben Hackney-Williams brings you another month
of news and reviews from the automotive industry

Always keep learning in

www.caarparts.co.uk
the face of hardship
X Thatcham Research has announced it is
committed to maintaining development of
Shoulder
apprenticeship learner journeys, despite
lockdowns and Coronavirus hardship across
the weight
the industry.
The Education and Skills Funding Agency
of racing
(ESFA) responded to intensified lobbying greatness
of government to confirm that apprentices
can continue to study. Backing the decision,
Thatcham Research has called for businesses
to continue their investment in apprenticeships
in the automotive repair sector.
“The challenge for business owners and
their staff is almost indescribable,” says Dean
Lander, head of repair sector services at
Thatcham Research. “That said, no one is likely
to feel more vulnerable than young apprentices.
With little life experience, many will struggle to
get to grips with the upheaval. Thatcham has over 150 apprentices on
“Whether an apprentice is still required to programme throughout the UK, from first-year
be in the bodyshop, is spending more time at learners to third-years approaching the end of £23
home or has been furloughed, their learning their course. nordschleife.us
should continue.” For more info visit https://bit.ly/3dbhWl5
X Over 90 years of
Keep your hands even cleaner £3.99
autoglym.com
Nordschleife has seen
the famous section of
than your paintwork Nürburgring earn its title as
the world’s most challenging
X Autoglym has responded to the Coronavirus climate by putting race track.
its research and development teams on a clean scheme project Now you can wear Green
that benefits thousands. In handy 100ml bottles, the new Autoglym Hell with pride, courtesy of
hand sanitiser is perfectly sized for the glovebox or centre console. this Nordschleife “You’ll Never
What’s more, is the car-care experts donated 20,000 units to Race Alone!” shirt.
its local health body, the Hertfordshire Volunteering Service. Every Available in sizes S to 3XL,
order from the Autoglym website will also include a free bottle, or anyone can share the love of
you can buy them for an affordable price on their own. this rollercoaster racetrack.

HELLA highlights the start of fuel pump fears

X More than half of all fuel pump replacements are the result of misdiagnoses.
To clear the confusion, the fuel pump experts at HELLA are shining the spotlight
on some of the most common causes of fuel pump failure, as well as common
misdiagnoses that can occur. Dirt or debris entering the system or using
low-quality fuel both regularly result in contamination that results in failure.
Symptoms that indicate the fuel pump may need replacing include:
X Difficult, or non-starting X Extended engine cranking
X Immediate or intermittent stalling X Rough idle
X Poor acceleration X Severe engine lag
Electric fuel pumps operate at higher speed and draw less current than older style pumps and the complexity of modern engines
means that several vehicle systems can disable them. Components and technology that would not normally be associated with the
fuel system such as security systems, drivetrain and oil/fuel pressure switches, now have the ability to render the fuel pump inactive,
which can often result in misdiagnosis.
For more information on replacement options or to speak to the HELLA experts direct, 01295 662400 or email hella.sales@hella.com

Click & Collect vehicle spares, workshop tools and leisure

equipment at over 400 independent member stores. www.caarparts.co.uk

18 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

Have a new product to market? Send details to carmechanics@bauermedia.co.uk CM Insider

NEW from SEALEY £199.95 RRP

NEWS IN BRIEF
sealey.co.uk
Sealey raises the game
with heavy-duty jack
X This single-piece hydraulic trolley jack from Sealey is
suitable for heavy-duty lifting of loaded vans up to 3.5 tonnes
GVW. Fitted with a safety overload valve and pump-through
valve to prevent the handle locking at max ram extension, it Sort your storage
also comes complete with a foot pedal for raising the saddle with Sealey
in restricted spaces. Positioning is aided thanks to an X With over 300 products
extra-large saddle, and heavy-duty castors do exactly and discounts of up to
what they say on the tin. 57% off list price, Sealey
Always check the Sealey website for the latest discounts has launched its new and
biggest ever storage and
and offers. This trolley jack is currently in the garage and
workstations promotion.
workstation promotion, with the price reduced to £155.94.
There’s never been a better
time to rearrange your
Fuel and fluid functionality space, and you’ll even find
some free items among
in practical products these 60-pages. Valid until
the end of December 2020.
X Sealey has added another range of efficient Visit sealey.co.uk for more
workshop essentials in the form of fuel cans and information.
a drain pan. At three-litres, the cans are fitted
with a screw lock cap with a flexible hose. Call for new green
They’re not only colour-coded – black (JC3B) scheme bus dream
is for diesel, green (JC3G) for unleaded X JCB heir Jo Bamford
and the red (JC3R) for lead replacement £7.14 (fuel can) (right) has announced
– they’re also stackable, making them £17.74 (drain pan) plans for a UK-built
practical and easy for storage. sealey.co.uk 3000-strong
The plastic drain pan (DRPH12) is hydrogen bus
made from hard-wearing polypropylene and perfect for fleet by 2024 to
catching drips, saving spills of excess oil or other fluids, or lead the nation’s
economic recovery.
cleaning and storing components.
The proposal will
have the state-of-the-art
Throw some light busses rolling into London,
Birmingham, Liverpool,
on your tech Manchester, Brighton,
Glasgow, Edinburgh,
power problems Aberdeen and Belfast, with
USB charging points and
X Part of the Spring 2020 promotion more spacious seating
(prices start around £23.94 until the end £40.14 (SPP01) than traditional transport
of May), Sealey has released three new solar £41.94 (SPP02) options. Mr Bamford has
panel ranges – the SPP01 1.5W, SPP02 2.4W £71.94 (SPP03) asked the government
and SPP03 4.8W. Turn daylight into 12V electricity, suitable for maintaining sealey.co.uk to foot £500m, 10% of
a wide range of batteries, power packs, or vehicles in long-term storage. the national bus strategy
In addition to the battery clips and vehicle accessory socket plug, the panels come equipped with fund, to unlock the UK’s
suction pad fixings for simple practicality on the inside of a car windscreen, for example. hydrogen industry.
The money will be used
to build production
Making an impact with facilities and zero-emission
transportation. It will also
new wrench range be implemented into a
X These ½in-sq drive 18V cordless strategic financial incentive
impact wrenches not only add colour to scheme for operators
your workspace but are ergonomic and practical, too. to purchase the busses
The double injection body is fitted for rubber grips for at the same price as the
current diesel options.
comfort and safety, backed by an electronic brake.
“The Government gives
On the business end, a variable speed trigger, cast
the public a subsidy to buy
aluminium gearbox, rubber gearhead and thermal
an electric car,” says Mr
overload protection all provide greater control of Bamford. “Why shouldn’t a
the torque of up to 400Nm (295lb.ft). An LED work bus operator, who provides
light will illuminate any workspace when the trigger a vital service for the local
is pressed. The storage case also comes with a 3Ah £143.94 community, be supported
Li-ion battery and 80 minutes mains charger. sealey.co.uk to buy a clean, green, UK-
The impact wrenches are available in red or hi-vis green. built hydrogen bus?”
Always check the website for the latest deals, discounts and promotions.

Click & Collect vehicle spares, workshop tools and leisure

equipment at over 400 independent member stores. www.caarparts.co.uk

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 19

CM Insider
NEWS IN BRIEF
Pick your own
present this year
X Even with the best of
intentions in the world,
you can only get exactly
the present you’re after
by choosing it yourself.
That’s why nobody’s going
to say no to vouchers
from Britain’s biggest
specialist supplier of tools
and machinery, Machine
Mart. The vouchers can
range from £20 to £500,
meaning that there’s little
not on the gift list this year.
For more information visit
machinemart.co.uk or call
0844 880 1265.
Car buyers ready to
spend, post-pandemic
X The average price of cars
being reserved for purchase
once lockdowns are lifted
has shot-up to a record
level, according to online
car marketplace BuyaCar.
co.uk. Average prices on
the site fell to a three-year
low of £11,366 in April this
year, but the first week of
May saw the average price
of a car reserved rise to
nearly £16,000. Through
looking at intentions
data, analysts for the
marketplace have put this
down to increasing demand
due to enforced slowing of
purchase activity coupled
with a stronger appetite to
splash-out on a higher-spec
car than originally planned.
In parallel to an increase in
the proportion of cheaper
'budget' cars, the most
in-demand models include
Mercedes A-Class,
VW Golf and Mercedes
C-Class, suggesting that
consumers still have their
sights set high.
Click & Collect vehicle spares, workshop tools and leisure
equipment at over 400 independent member stores.
20 Car Mechanics pJune 2020
NEW from LASER
Don’t brake a sweat (part one)
X Sometimes there’s
more to removing
a brake disc than you
might expect, so Laser
Tools has launched
a product for a little persuasion.
Removed the securing screw but the disc doesn’t want to
budge? Nudged it with a hammer tap? When dirt or corrosion
has taken its toll on the manoeuvrability, this brake disc puller
(part no. 7708) will get the part moving.
Designed to fit discs from 165mm to 380mm, spring-loaded
fittings clip behind the disc before breaking any corrosion and
£179.83
lasertools.co.uk
pulling it off the axle flange. Easy.
Don’t brake a sweat (part two)
X If you’re going to look after one thing to do with your car, it
should be brakes. Fitting new pads is one thing, but a quality
service of your stoppers is so much more. That’s why Laser
Tools have introduced a new five-piece brake component
cleaning and inspection kit (part no. 7714), with everything you
need to clean and maintain these motoring safety parts.
First-up in the set, a steel brush is perfect for cleaning steel
calipers and a brass brush has the bristles to sort issues with
built-up brake dust on aluminium calipers. A 10mm-wide
caliper carrier file will restore free movement to the part, while
a tungsten carbide steel double-edged scraper is an effective
at combatting heavy disc corrosion. The patented brake pipe £100.58
corrosion tool is ideal to check the condition of metal brake pipes. lasertools.co.uk
The brake cleaning and inspection kit will fit easily in your chest drawer
thanks to its handy flat foam packaging. Peace of mind and convenience in a tidy package. Perfect.
Tiny tool set for almost any trim job £60.96
lasertools.co.uk
X There’s little that’s worse than getting into the middle of a job
and realising you don’t have the perfect tool to make your life
that little bit easier when it comes to convenience. This strong
composite plastic multi-purpose trim and seal toolkit from
Laser Tools will give you the versatility for almost any use.
The set includes:
X 3 x prying and smoothing tools
X 3 x O-ring removal tools
X 6 x scraper tools with both angled and flat heads
X 3 x pick hooks, useful for removing bearing seals, for example
X 1 x spike tool
Fourteen of the tools
are double-ended, with
a different tool each end, all
supplied in a handy zip wallet.
It’s more than just about the
cars, too, as this toolkit’s
strong points are equally
applicable to phones, laptops
or other electrical equipment.
www.caarparts.co.uk
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
 CM Insider

Lockdown longevity for your tyres NEWS IN BRIEF

X With the reduction in car use due to lockdowns and advice
to only travel for essential journeys, the experts at Goodyear
are sharing their expertise on the black stuff to ensure that
motorists know how to maintain their tyres. Vehicle owners
may have been granted an exemption from MOT testing, but
other safety legislation is still very much in place.
Wherever possible within government guidelines, move
your vehicle at a minimum of every three months to avoid We’re sneaking off into
flat spots on the tyres through weight bearing. our cars, says ŠKODA
Make sure that the tread depth of your tyres does not X With work-from-home
drop below 1.6mm. Any driver with tyres found to have less environments causing
tread depth than this could face a fine of up to £2500 and a disturbance in the
three penalty points per tyre. professional peace,
Tyres can only be kept at their best if they’re inflated to motorists across the UK are
the correct pressure at all times. Check the vehicle’s handbook, door, or fuel filler cap for the correct using their stationary cars
pressure gauge. When kept off road, tyres can be temporarily inflated to the manufacturer’s max as refuge for a number of
recommended pressure. Find this PSI number labelled “max press” on the tyre’s sidewall. activities. Research released
If possible, Goodyear advise that a vehicle is kept raised when not in use so that the tyres are by ŠKODA UK reveals that
no longer supporting any weight. However, as this is not practical for the majority of motorists, up to 1.2 million drivers
are disappearing into their
so ensure the car is at least carrying minimum weight and use the above advice to stay as safe as
parked cars for some alone
possible on and off the road.
time. The survey of 2000 car
For more tyre tips visit https://bit.ly/2YETgxw
owners found that activities
that cars are now being
used for include a place to
It’s all in the detail £108.00
power-tec.co.uk watch TV on a smartphone
or tablet, somewhere
with Power-TEC to take a nap, and even
X Forget swirls, scuffs and scrapes thanks to this as a change of scenery
29-piece pneumatic polishing kit. Sometimes you playground for the kids. The
need subtlety for the perfect paintwork, and this research found that almost
two thirds of motorists miss
comprehensive kit goes one step further with different
driving their cars, while
grades, shapes and sizes of sponge polishing pads, wool
lockdown has resulted in
pads and felt buffing mops for a high gloss finish.
one-in-five washing their
Under door handles, inaccessible parts around mirrors, car more frequently.
the Power-TEC air-powered polisher allows you to get in the
tightest of areas for spot repair. It is
a compact unit, with easily changeable
hook and loop pads that are just
25-30mm in diameter.
Powered from a workshop’s
compressed air supply, the ultra-
compact and lightweight polisher runs
from a 130cm air line with speed control Citroën embraces social
and safe levels of noise and vibration distancing for safety
in use. Everything from the polisher to Embracing social
the pads and mops can be stored in its distancing and in reply to
practical zip case for access whenever you need to get down to the details. Spares are also available. the ‘new normal,’ Citroën
has launched and updated
its online sales portal to aid
100 years of manufacturing 1977 Mazda advert customers in researching,
configuring and reserving
X Both Suzuki and Mazda have been looking back in cars from the comfort of
time to celebrate 100 years in manufacturing, reminiscing their home. As part of the
over humble beginnings new measures, the marque
turned to worldwide is also ensuring that
automotive success. government guidelines are
Suzuki started out adhered to for safe home
in March 1920 with the delivery, with the car being
manufacture of textile fully disinfected, fitted
looms until the decline with protective covers for
1955 SuzukiSuzulight the steering wheel, gear
of the cotton industry.
stick, driver’s seat and floor
Today, 65 years on from the delivery of its first car, the
mat, and delivery drivers
marque is renowned as the “small car experts,” producing
kitted-up with gloves, face
three million units per year. mask and safety goggles.
Mazda turned itself from a manufacturer of cork Customers are then
products to the global automotive company we know advised to wait three hours
today. Its first vehicle was a three-wheeled truck called before entering the vehicle.
the Mazda Go, introduced in October 1931.

Click & Collect vehicle spares, workshop tools and leisure

equipment at over 400 independent member stores. www.caarparts.co.uk

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 21

 Tales from
the workshop
Finding & fixing advice from our garage proprietor Steve Rothwell

CITROËN C5 The Eolys fluid tank sits

below the diesel tank.

DPF fluid mix-up

X When the diesel additive warning light came up on the dash
of this 2004 Citroën C5, the owner thought it was going to be
a quick and simple job. He ran the Citroën as a work vehicle – his
family motor was a much newer Volkswagen which used AdBlue
as a diesel additive.
He first shock came when he went to purchase some fluid
to top the system up and realised that the Eolys fluid used is
a little more expensive than the AdBlue. The second problem
he discovered is that it does not just pour into the system and
needed to be fed into the tank from underneath.
He was prepared to have a go, but when he then realised that
the system would also need resetting using diagnostic equipment
he threw in the towel and asked me to carry out the job.
This was probably a good choice because the Eolys fluid is
a hazardous substance and great care should be taken to not get it on the skin or breath in the toxic fumes.

NISSAN PRIMERA FORD FOCUS

Family let down Rusted rear arm

X It had only been six weeks since my granddaughter had X The owner of this 2004 Ford Focus had been advised at the
put her 2006 Nissan Primera through an MOT. The front tyres previous MOT that it was time to trade-up to a newer motor,
were getting close to the limit and so before the test she but he had not heeded the advice and the Ford was still in his
asked me to put a couple of new ones on. possession a year later – and now was due for the MOT again.
So she was less than amused when, coming out one Fully aware that this year’s MOT was not going to be a walk
Monday morning to set-off for work, she discovered that one in the park, he wasn’t too shocked when we told him that it
of the new front tyres was flat. She had to leave the vehicle was going to need two new lower suspension arms on the
and asked me to get the puncture fixed for her. rear. The corrosion was taking hold and, if the arms weren’t
I got the wheel off and back to the workshop and could replaced, there was a real danger that the springs would
easily see the culprit in the form of a screw which had simply push through them.
punctured the tyre. She’d been unlucky, because when the On a newer motor the job would have been quite
tyre had become deflated the screw had also punctured the straightforward, but on one with so much corrosion, nothing
sidewall of the tyre, condemning it to the scrap heap. was simple and the
only way to release The bolt was seized in
The screw had not the rear arm and had to
only punctured the the old arms was be cut to release the arm.
tread but also gone to cut through the
on to damage the fixing bolts.
sidewall internally. Once the new
arms and fittings
were in place,
the arms were
adjusted to ensure
they were correctly
positioned.

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AUDI A5
Find us on

Quattro @blueprintparts

clutch MERCEDES SL500

change Indicator
X The owner of this 2008
Audi A5 Quattro Sport
had been putting off the
Once the gearbox is down the
driveshaft needs to be removed to
allow the flywheel and clutch to
indication
X The owner of this 2003
clutch change for a while be drawn from the bellhousing.
Mercedes SL500 was totally
now, he knew it wasn’t
confused. The indicator on
going to be a cheap job.
the dash was telling him
He wasn’t keen on having
that there were two bulbs
the clutch fail completely
that were not working,
though and before it got
but when he checked his
to this stage, he asked
lights everything seemed
me to get the job done.
to be working fine. What
The biggest challenge
he didn’t realise is that on
on the A5 is that the
his Mercedes the CANbus-
gearbox needs to be controlled lighting was
removed complete with the flywheel and clutch assembly. Then once the whole lot has been cleverly substituting another
removed the nearside driveshaft has to be drawn out to allow the clutch and flywheel to be bulb at a different voltage to
taken from the gearbox bellhousing. ensure that externally all the
Once the gearbox was out and the flywheel and clutch assembly removed, the wear on the lights continued to work.
clutch plate, coupled with the heat marks on the cover and flywheel were a sure indication If he had looked a little
that if this job hadn’t been carried out the clutch was likely to fail in a short space of time. closer he would have
Once the motor was back together the owner was pleased that the job was now out of the realised that a front
way and he could enjoy driving his A5 without the fear of failure. indicator – which was being
The whole job took around 7.5 hours – so pretty much the full day. shown as not operating
on the dash – had been
replaced by a front foglamp,
which was now acting as
PEUGEOT 306 The battery terminal was the source of all the problems, a substitute indicator. The
preventing the charge going in and the power coming out.
rear side light was directing
Battery a reduced voltage through
the brake light bulb to keep
charging everything operating OK.
The rear bulb was simply

fault replaced, but the front

indicator needed a new
bulb holder as it was the
X The owner of this 1998
Peugeot diesel had been connection in the bulb
having battery problems for holder and not the bulb that
a while but running the motor had failed.
on a budget he could not Once fitted, all the lights
afford to take the motor to a were now working as they
garage or replace the battery. were designed to, and the
His answer to the problem warnings were extinguished.
was to remove the battery every night and put it on charge in his shed, then in the morning
he would take it back out to his vehicle, pop it in place and off he would go. This was fine
until the darker nights came along, and he found that driving around with the lights on
seemed to totally deplete the battery meaning that if he did stop and turn off the engine,
it was reluctant to start again.
With things getting worse he popped in to see me on the off-chance that I would have
a cheap second-hand battery, which I didn’t, but having a quick look at the motor
I discovered that the battery or the charging system was not the problem. It was the quick-
release battery terminal fitted to the Peugeot that was at fault. Fitting a new terminal The bulb holder was not making a
sorted all the problems, giving the owner one less thing to worry about. good connection. This prevented
the indicator from operating.

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www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 23

Tales from the Workshop

VAUXHALL COMBO Not only had the bearing collapsed

and ruined the hub, damage had

Dramatic also occurred to the brake disc as

it rubbed against the pad carrier.

bearing
failure
X I have often seen dramatic failures
of different components, normally
in such cases the owner is aware of
the problem and the motor is then
transported by the recovery service.
The driver of this 2004 Vauxhall
Combo van’s only concern was
because he had heard a slight squeal
from the front of the vehicle.
My first reaction when seeing
the wear on the front tyre, was that
something (most likely the front
wheel bearing) had failed. Jacking
the van up revealed that the wheel was flopping about and the hub bearing had collapsed.
There was little doubt that the damage done was going to extend to the hub and it was very likely that the bearing had
worn so badly that it had collapsed and spun on the hub. This was the case and due to the age of the van the owner opted
to collect (not in that vehicle) a replacement unit from a breakers yard which came complete with a new hub bearing
and the caliper carrier. This was quite easily fitted, after which a replacement tyre was also needed. Back on the road the
owner remarked that the steering now felt a little more positive.

VOLKSWAGEN GOLF FORD FIESTA

Suspension rattles Failed seat release

X One of the most annoying
sounds for a driver is that
of constant knocking when
going over undulations in
the road. As our roads now
have plenty of dips and
bumps, customers normally
ask if they can get the
source of such knocking
remedied quickly.
There are two small but
equally loud and annoying
sources of such knocks. One
is the anti-roll bar link-arm
The gap in the hardened bush was
quite easy to spot on this one.
joints, and the other is the
D-bushes on the anti-roll
bar. Neither is particularly
expensive to replace, but
both can be loud and quite
annoying.
On this 2002 VW Golf,
the problem was caused by
the D-bushes on the front
anti-roll bar. The wear was
so bad that it could be seen
before even moving the anti-
roll bar. Very often the wear
doesn’t have to be this bad
for the knocking to begin,
but when it is it makes
finding it much easier.
VW can supply a new
bracket with the D-bush,
and I prefer to fit the new
bracket as not only does the
bush slide into it easier, it
also makes hooking it in the
frame easier.
Once the new bushes
were fitted on this Golf, the
knocking ceased.
X Three-door vehicles are not ideally suited for loading
the little ones into the rear car seat, but it is something this
mum had been doing for a while now and was used to the
awkwardness of the problem. The seat was fitted on the
passenger side so that when she placed her child in the seat
she could do so from the safety of the pavement.
This, at the moment, wasn’t possible because the
passenger seat would not tilt forward. The problem was due
to the cable and tilt release handle. Being quite a common
problem on the three-door Fiesta, once I removed the old
handle I could see why.
The small end of the release cable is pushed up into the
release handle as the lever is lifted. The end on the old cable
was worn and this coupled with the worn plastic of the
handle was allowing the
cable to slip through and
drop out before it had
released the seat catch.
The new cable is slightly
modified and once a new
cable and lever were
fitted, the seat release
mechanism worked
without a hitch, allowing
the owners precious cargo
The cable had become detached from
to be loaded safely from
the handle preventing its operation.
the kerbside again.

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24 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

HONDA CIVIC The swivel was squashed by the
balljoint splitter; it may have been Find Fitment

Squashed best to just use the fork type.

Right First Time.
www.blue-print.com
Videos on YouTube

swivel VOLKSWAGEN
BEETLE
thread
X Sometimes it doesn’t
matter how hard you try
Quick tail-
you are never going to
achieve the wishes of the
light bulb
customer. My task was X According to the
to replace the lower arm handbook, the rear lamp units
on a 2001 Honda Civic on this 2010 Volkswagen
as cheaply as possible to Beetle were supposed to be
enable the motor to get easily removed by simply
through the MOT within undoing the retaining nut
the owner’s small budget. and then pushing the lamp
On this model the lower up and out of position.
swivel is not part of the I often find that if the
lower arm but part of the hub, and so the balljoint needed to be split without damaging the lamp has not been removed
swivel boot. This meant that the fork-type balljoint splitter could not be used. for some time it will adhere
So instead I used the type of splitter which presses the joint out of place. There was a loud bang to the bodywork and take
is normal as the joint released, and so with the arm off, the process of fitting the new one began. a little bit of pressure to
I had not however managed to save the balljoint as the act of pressing it out had squashed the actually release it. The lamp
threads. This was because the balljoint has a hole for the split pin fixing which weakens the area. on this Beetle had one more
Luckily the balljoint is not too pricey at under a tenner, but it cost me more time to replace. obstacle to its removal as
the vehicle had received a
small knock on the rear wing
just adjacent to the lamp.
CHEVROLET MATIZ The noticeable difference in the wear rate of the brake This made the task more
pads was the first indication that the slider had seized. difficult and great care was
Seized needed to prevent damage
to the lamp or the body

slider during removal. Once the

lamp was out, I replaced
the blown bulb and the
X The owner of this
2009 Chevrolet Matiz lamp was refitted. The
had brought her vehicle owner commented that he
in complaining that the certainly wouldn’t want to
brakes didn’t feel right. be doing that on a dark wet
It only took a quick drive night at the side of the road.
along the road for me to
confirm her diagnosis. The
next step was to discover
why the brakes appeared
to be pulling to one side
when braking.
Removing both front wheels, I could see that the pads were in reasonable condition, but
the nearside brake pads had worn unevenly. This often indicates that the brake caliper
sliders are sticking or seized, and this was the case with this little Matiz. The problem was
now going to be freeing the slider off. Releasing the screw should allow
This can normally be achieved by soaking the slider with penetrating oil and then the lamp to be lifted up and out,
(as a last resort) using heat on the outside of the carrier. On this one I had no such luck but it often sticks into position.
and no attempts coax the slide free would work.
My repeated efforts only resulted in the slide sheering off, which meant that a new Follow Steve on Twitter:
calliper complete with carrier and slide pins was needed. As the new units from the main www.twitter.com/cmtips
dealer also came complete with new brake pads the owner asked us to replace them on
both sides, to keep everything balanced and prevent further problems in the future.

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www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 25

Win prizes worth over
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Simply answer the question below

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O Weight capacity 340kg
O Front swivel caster with brake HOW TO ENTER: Entry is free. Only
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first all-correct entry drawn gets the
O Fully adjustable mounting arms to hold different engine types crane and stand, runner-up gets a crane.
No correspondence can be entered
O 360° swivel head with eight-pin increments for easy into. Closing date for entries is July 1,
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We can only accept email entries for these Clarke competitions (sorry, no postal entries).

Simply send an email to carmechanics@bauermedia.co.uk with CLARKE ENGINE CRANE COMP in the subject line,
then give the answer to the question below. PLUS: don’t forget to leave your name, address and contact telephone number

WHAT IS THE MAXIMUM LIFT HEIGHT OF THE ENGINE CRANE IN MILLIMETRES?

Car Mechanics magazine will only use the data you supply in your entry email to contact you if you are the winner. The winner’s details will
be passed on to Clarke International Ltd for the sole purpose of organising the delivery of your prize. All competition entries will be held
securely until the prize draw has been made and then securely disposed of within seven days of the winners being chosen. The winners’
details will be held for a period of one month until the prize has been dispatched and received, then they will be securely disposed of.
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 u di A4 C ab r iolet 1. 8T
Proje c t A in association with

Front wheel BUY ONLINE OR CALL US ON

0121 626 7971
bearing & brakes
PART THREE: Our A4 had an annoying
hum from the front-end that sounded like a
wheel bearing – plus we needed to replace
the worn-out front discs and the rear pads. JOBS LIST
 REPLACE TIMING BELT PART 2
Andrew Everett rolls up his sleeves… & WATER PUMP MAY 20
 REPLACE AIRCON PART 2
COMPRESSOR MAY 20

I
have to say, I really wasn’t looking
forward to tackling the wheel
bearing on our A4. I had noticed the
tell-tale ‘wah wah wah wah’ noises
from the front-end when I collected it
from BCA and I’d hoped it wasn’t the
gearbox or differential. I recalled a 1992
Audi 80 I bought decades ago that had
a fainter version of the same noise – a
noisy diff bearing due to a slight oil leak
that hadn’t been addressed.
However, I put my mind at rest (partly)
when I investigated further. I jacked
up the front of the car, chocked the
rear wheels and put stands under the
front wishbones, as well as a big jack,
before carefully lowering the car again.
I then ran it through the gears while a
mate listened to each front wheel – yep,
passenger side front noticeably noisy.
Then, I had to research how to sort
this. The manuals all tell you that the
front alloy suspension upright needs
to come off and that is a potential
nightmare on these as the steel bolts
can well and truly seize in. But a bit of
online research suggested that you could
do it with the suspension fitted, but the
driveshaft removed – sounds better! And
someone else said you can even do it
with the driveshaft in place!
Yes, you can do this and this is how we
did it. But access to the four spline drive
bolts is limited and if I were to do the job
again, I’d spend an extra twenty minutes
unbolting the driveshaft from the gearbox
as well as the heat shield above, allowing
the driveshaft to be pushed up, rearwards
and out of the way. This then gives you
perfect access to the bearing bolts as
they need to be both torqued and angle-
tightened, not easy with the CV joint in
the way. But overall, a pretty simple job.
Another method is to use a slide  INVESTIGATE WHEEL PART 3
hammer to pull the drive flange out first BEARING/NOISE JUN 20
– this apparently gives the CV joint more  OVERHAUL PART 3
room to move and enables you to leave BRAKES JUN 20
the driveshaft in place. Choices, choices!  RECTIFY BODYWORK ISSUES
There are also two types of front hub  DROP THE SUMP &
and bearing, one to fit a thin driveshaft RENEW OIL PICK-UP
(the splined-end CV joint section) and  ENGINE SERVICE
one for fatter ones like ours. The part PLUS ANYTHING ELSE THAT ARISES IN THE
number for the fatter one is 415VG0090, FOLLOWING MONTHS
and the corresponding wheel bearing
is 413VG0630 – the skinny version is
413VG0110, but you’re unlikely to find Brake dilemmas
one in the UK as they are fitted to the The front discs/pads were worn and,
1.6-litre cars not sold in the UK – the 1.8 while the rear discs were okay, the pads
and 2.0 cars upwards all seem to have were ruined. We elected to reuse the rear
the fatter driveshafts. discs and fit new pads, only because there
We ordered a new hub from GSF is more involved in disc replacement than
as it’s possible that the old hub could you might think – we’re talking wind-
be seized into the bearing and we back calipers, as well as a couple of nasty
didn’t want the car marooned while caliper carrier bolts. Talking of caliper
we ordered a new hub. Looking at the bolts, Audi say you should replace with
design though, it’s little that a bench vice new, but they’re not stretch bolts, just
and an angle grinder couldn’t sort out thread-locked (encapsulated) – so we
even if it was seized on. applied Wurth green thread-locking fluid.
WHEEL BEARING RENEWAL 1 W With the
front wheel
removed and the
car on stands, we
need to remove this
driveshaft centre
bolt – a female
17mm. I used the
17mm drain plug
key from a gearbox
and diff drain plug
set. You can do it
with the car on the
ground or with the
brake disc locked
with a screwdriver
in a disc vent.

WWW.GSFCARPARTS.COM 0121 626 7971

30 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 CM project 2005 Audi A4 Cabriolet 1.8T S line

2 The bolt is torqued to 115Nm and then
180° angle tightened and I wondered if
a half-inch breaker bar would do the job – it
did. Even so, I’d rather be using ¾-inch drive
stuff for a bolt this tight. The bolt is a stretch
bolt and you shouldn’t really use it twice…
The caliper and disc need to come
3 4
off now as the wheel bearing assembly
comes out forwards. Flip off this brake pad
anti-rattle clip – it’s bit of a sod to get on
and off and you’re better off with pliers
when refitting. We will be talking about the
front brakes a bit later on, however.
Assuming you’re just doing the wheel
bearing and not a disc and pad change,
you can unbolt the complete caliper from
the hub. These are held on with big 21mm
bolts that are tightened on reassembly to
190Nm. Audi say you should renew these,
but we thread-locked them.

W With the centre bolt out, the

5 driveshaft can be pushed back.
The splined CV joint section doesn’t go
that far into the hub. With the driveshaft
fitted, you need to limit the amount of
steering lock you apply and I found the
access to the bolts was adequate but
only just – really, I’d remove the shaft.

X Continuing with the brakes…

6 remove this small Torx screw and
the disc will fall off. These discs could
well be the 2005 originals – they’re
a bit warped now, though. If they are
stuck, a careful clout from a hide mallet
will soon shock them free.

W Once unbolted the calipers

7 will need to be tie-wrapped up to
the steering arm, otherwise they will
be hanging down on the brake hoses as
well as the other cables. You can see a
couple (circled) of the steering joints
here, bizarrely using pinch bolts rather
than taper seals. These bolts can snap.

X Here we can see the CV joint

8 pushed back and almost out. It
won’t quite come all the way out. It’s just
not easy to swing a breaker bar in there
to do the angle tightening. The socket is
a 10mm triple square spline drive and
I used several types to get the job done.

W With the bolts out, I was

9 worried that the iron hub may
have corroded into the alloy suspension
upright, but with a few clouts of a steel
hammer, I shocked it free. I mentioned
a slide hammer in the main text – if you
can get one, I’d recommend it.

X Here is the front upright

10 with the hub and wheel bearing
assembly removed. You can see here how
short and stubby the splined section
of the driveshaft is and we wonder why
Audi didn’t make it full length to fill
the drive flange? The alloy upright now
needs to be cleaned-up fully.

WWW.GSFCARPARTS.COM 0121 626 7971

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 31

CM project 2005 Audi A4 Cabriolet 1.8T S line
WHEEL BEARING RENEWAL CONTINUED
The new bearing can now be slid into
13 position – do this with the wheel
straight so that the CV joint is straight ahead
and can be nudged easily into position. Do the
four bearing retaining bolts up hand-tight for
now – as usual, I applied some Würth green
thread-lock fluid as a precaution.
Once the car was assembled again,
16 I had a look at the old bearing and hub.
Would the hub be seized in and require the
inner bearing race to be laboriously ground
off, or would it come out easily? Using a
suitable socket, it was driven out quite easily,
but it could have fought me to the death.
WWW.GSFCARPARTS.COM
32 Car Mechanics pJune 2020
W We were
11 concerned that the
old hub might be seized into
the bearing (it happens) so
we ordered both the bearing
and the hub from GSF. They
are quite expensive but,
as it turns out, our old hub
popped out with very little
resistance. We weren’t sure
which hub we needed: Audi
make two, the fatter 0090
(ours) and the skinny 110.
The bore is smaller on the
110 and is for cars fitted
with the slimmer driveshafts
and you wouldn’t know until
a stripdown.
Now we can tighten the bolts. They
14 are done up to 80Nm plus 90°. It’s
very easy to slip and risk rounding out the
bolts, so you need to hammer the spline
drive in. I used a wobbly extension and took
a lot of care to ensure that the socket stayed
in straight on angle tightening.
I cut the outer casing off the bearing
17 with a grinder to free the bearing races
and examine them. The inner one was still
pretty good, but this outer one had heavy
pitting on the outer race, a sign that the
lubrication had failed. This bearing would
have got a lot worse quite quickly.
Now we definitely knew which
12 driveshafts we had, we were able to
confirm ours as the 0090 and press it into the
new 0630 bearing – the other one would have
been a very loose fit! You can use a hydraulic
press or as we did, a good old Record bench
vice. Even pressure is needed, and it was in.
Now we can refit the brakes, fit the
15 centre driveshaft bolt hand-tight and
get the car back on its wheels for the final
tighten. Torque to 115Nm or 80ft lb, add a
mark to the bolt against the hub, then heave
the breaker bar around to a whopping 180°
angle tighten. I used thread-lock as well.
These are inner driveshaft to gearbox
18 bolts we discussed earlier. They use
ordinary spline drive bolts that cost just
over £10 a side from Audi, although they
can safely be reused if you wish with some
thread-lock. With the bolts out, the shaft can
be pushed upwards and backwards.
0121 626 7971
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
 CM project 2005 Audi A4 Cabriolet 1.8T S line

RENEWING FRONT DISCS & PADS

We’ve covered a lot of the brake
1 removal so far with the wheel bearing
job, but when starting from scratch, flip the
plastic covers off the caliper sliders and
using a suitable Allen key (6mm on ours),
undo and remove the slider pins. Clean and
grease on reassembly, torque to just 25Nm.
Here is the brake pad warning light
2 sensor on the front passenger side
pad. Like most VAG cars, there is one front
sensor only and none on the rears. These
pads – which were not that old on close
inspection – had the warning sensor built-in
and sealed rather than a replaceable one.
These 21mm bolts secure the caliper
3 carrier to the front hub and they are
thread locked from the factory. As they
aren’t stretch bolts, reuse them with liquid
thread lock and tighten to 190Nm. Remove
the brake disc T27 Torx before you tackle
these bolts and the whole lot comes off.

W Our nice new Bendix discs

4 are the same 312mm type as the
originals and the part number from GSF
is 601VG0436. There are other discs,
one slightly smaller, one slightly bigger
so you need to measure carefully. The
grey paint on the Bendix discs comes
off with brake pad use.

X We still think the front discs

5 were the originals and that meant
the hubs were a bit rusty. No problem
when you’re fitting a new hub like we
were, but these will need five minutes
with emery paper and penetrating oil to
clean-up fully.

W Likewise, the caliper carriers

6 will also need a clean-up. Use
one of the new pads as a guide to what
needs cleaning. Use a wire bush to start
with and finish with a file to get the pad
working surfaces spot on. Don’t overdo
it as the pads will rattle in the carrier if
they are too loose.

X It’s vital that the disc to hub

7 mating surface is perfectly clean
as a bit of dirt in here will cause the
disc to run slightly out of true and
cause braking vibration. I only use
Mintex Ceratec brake grease now for
any brake assembly.

W Smear a little Ceratec on the

8 pad working areas on the caliper
carrier before fitting and slide the outer
pad into place. With the pad fitted,
remove the self-adhesive paper seen
here – the residue sticks the outer pad
to the caliper, reducing squeal.

X Slowly push the caliper

9 pistons back in – don’t go mad
as it’s not unknown to flip the master
cylinder seals. Use a G-Clamp if you
like. Reassemble the calipers and pump
the pedal a few times to bring the pads
against the discs. The brakes will feel
a bit dead for the first few miles.

WWW.GSFCARPARTS.COM 0121 626 7971

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 33

CM project 2005 Audi A4 Cabriolet 1.8T S line

RENEWING REAR BRAKE PADS PROJECT COSTS

PURCHASE OF CAR
£1470.80

W To remove the
1 caliper, hold the
slider pin still with a
15mm spanner and undo
the 13mm retaining bolt.
Some pad kits come
with new thread locked
13mm bolts – if not, use PARTS COSTS
some thread-lock fluid. INA cambelt kit £264.28
These are adjustable INA water pump £91.67
calipers, so you cannot
move the pistons back Used aircon compressor £20.00
with a screwdriver. Aircon recharge £50.00
Auxiliary belt £26.99
Front wheel bearing £132.70
Front hub £96.26
Front brake discs £133.44
Front brake pads £56.09
Rear brake pads £29.84
X It is absolutely
2 imperative that
TOTAL £2372.07

you have a caliper wind

back tool for this – you
cannot do without one. USEFUL CONTACTS
One of our calipers was GSF Car Parts 0121 626 7981
a bit touch and go and gsfcarparts.com
was reluctant to wind
back, but we got there in
the end. The dust boots NEXT MONTH
are looking a bit tatty as We book our A4 into a bodyshop and
well. Wind the pistons get the gouged rear wing repaired.
all the way back in.

W The caliper carriers are best left in

3 place for reasons we’ll come to later,
so use a file to clean-up the pad movement
areas until the pad clips in and out easily
without binding. Our inner pads were rusted
solid and had to be bashed out. Coat the
pad moving areas lightly with Ceratec.
X I used an angle grinder to take the
4 wear lip off the edge of the discs that
were still in usable condition. Genuine Audi
discs have the minimum width cast in, so
I used a pair of digital calipers to measure
them. If you don’t take the wear lips off, it
will be impossible to fit the pre-adjusted
caliper and new pads.

W Here is the nearside rear brake all

5 reassembled and looking a lot better.
Operate the foot-brake and handbrake to
adjust the calipers and pads to the correct
working position. Like the front brakes, the
new rear pads will take a few miles of use
to completely bed into the old discs.

X These are the dreaded rear caliper

6 carrier bolts (arrowed). Like Golfs and
Passats, they are well hidden on the back of
the hub unit – you need to disconnect the
rear damper lower bolt to give access. There
are different bolts – spline and Allen – and
be very wary of really rusty bolts as well.

WWW.GSFCARPARTS.COM 0121 626 7971

34 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 THE NATIONAL KIT CAR MOTOR SHOW 2020

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Intercooler upgrade options

Mini Cooper S
R53 upgrade

INTERCOOLER
UPGRADES
Rob Hawkins visits MJR Minimatt to find
out how to uprate the intercoolers on the
supercharged R53 and turbocharged R56 Mini
Cooper S using UK-manufactured components R56 upgrade
from Forge Motorsport.

T
he first-generation of the
Cooper S (known as the
R53 from 2002) that was
manufactured by BMW featured
a supercharger, whereas the next
version (known as the R56 from 2006)
was equipped with a turbocharger. In
both cases, the air fed into the petrol
engine was air-cooled by a large radiator
(intercooler) mounted on the top of the
engine at first, but later fitted behind
the front bumper’s lower grille. Air
travels through the intercooler, just like
a coolant radiator, but with the intention
of cooling the air inside that’s being
force-fed into the engine. Cooling this
induction air is an important aspect
of improving the performance of an Toolbox Costs and Contacts
engine. The cooler the air, the greater its X Axle stands MJR Minimatt 01952 463800
density, which in turn means it contains X Brake cleaner www.minimatt.co.uk
more of the oxygen that is one of the X Cable ties Forge Motorsport 01452 380999
essential ingredients for combustion. X Knife or hacksaw and file www.forgemotorsport.co.uk
X Light grease Forge alloy intercooler for
X Screwdrivers R50/53 Cooper S £408.11
Forge ahead
X Spanners/sockets: 8mm Forge alloy intercooler kit for
There are several solutions for
improving the performance of an X Torx T27, T30 R56 Cooper S £538.22
intercooler, such as spraying water X Trim removal tool All prices include VAT

over it, or making it larger so that it

has a greater cooling capacity. Forge
Motorsport has adopted the latter and in
the case of the first-generation Cooper S,
their uprated intercooler features 14
rows instead of the standard 11. They
have calculated their intercooler
offers a 29% reduction in induction
air temperature over the standard
intercooler. As Luke Amon of Forge
Motorsport explains, “On the road
you will often hear a slight increase in
induction noise, accompanied by an
increased enthusiasm for the engine
to pull more strongly, especially in the
higher revs. This is where the OEM
intercooler loses its cooling efficiency.
In fact many customers have reported
that the unexpected increase in top-end
power has initially caught them out
and they have found themselves hitting
the rev limiter whereas previously
the tail off in power at the higher revs,
experienced with the OEM intercooler,
has forced them to change gear early.”
The intercooler on the R56 Cooper S
has more potential for improvement due
to its location. Forge’s uprated intercooler
for this model has a 250% larger surface
area and a 125% thicker base core. Their
testing revealed a reduction in intake air
temperature of 9°C with an increase in
power output of 18bhp.
The work involved in changing
the intercooler isn’t particularly
complicated, but is completely different
between the two models of the petrol
engine Cooper S. On the first-generation,
the top-mounted intercooler is easy to
access and can be removed within half-
an-hour. On the later model, the front
bumper has to be taken off and the lower
grille needs to be swapped for a modified
version from Forge, or you can trim the
existing one, as we have shown. So set
aside three or four hours for this job.
All the following steps were completed
at independent BMW and MINI
specialist MJR Minimatt in Shropshire.

36 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics


R53 COOPER S top-mounted intercooler upgrade
Raise the bonnet, remove the ignition
1 key and undo four Torx T30 screws
that secure the intercooler cover in position.
Once undone, remove the cover.
Remove the intercooler. Ease the
4 intercooler over to the offside of the
engine bay and remove it along with its
clamps. If it’s stuck, check all the clamps’
screws are loose.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
Intercooler upgrade options
Undo one of the 8mm bolts for each Slacken eight Torx T30 screws that
2 of the two brackets at the front of the 3 secure the intercooler clamps. There are
intercooler. Swivel both brackets round to two clamps on each side of the intercooler. DO
allow the intercooler to be removed. NOT fully undo these screws, just loosen them.
Trial-fit the new intercooler to see if it The brackets that are used to secure
5 will foul any parts in the engine bay. 6 the back of the old intercooler will also
As our photo shows here, the bracket that foul the fitting of the new intercooler. These
was moved in step 2 will be in the way, so brackets are each secured with one 8mm
both of those will need to be removed. bolt and should to be taken out.
W The offside rear
7 mounting bracket for the
old intercooler included a clip
for a breather pipe. Now that this
bracket has been removed, the
breather pipe is loose, so use
a cable tie to secure it.
X Remove both clamps
8 from the old intercooler
and dismantle them. Each clamp
consists of two metal clamps and
a rubber gasket. Turn the rubber
gasket inside out and inspect it
for splits. If it’s damaged it will
leak, so renew it now.
W Rebuild the two clamps
9 and loosely fit them onto
the new intercooler. Make sure the
screws for the clamps are facing
the right way up. The two mounting
brackets on the intercooler will be
fitted towards the front.
X Fit the new intercooler
10 with its clamps in position.
Slide the smaller clamp into
position first, followed by the
larger clamp. Make sure the outer
clamps are in position, then
tighten their Torx T30 screws.
June 2020 pCar Mechanics 37
Intercooler upgrade options

R53 COOPER S top-mounted intercooler upgrade continued

W Check the new intercooler is
11 correctly positioned, then tighten the
Torx T30 screws for the inner clamps. Next
fit 8mm bolts to the two front mounting
brackets, which use the original front
mounting points for the intercooler (nearside
bracket also secures a knock sensor wire).

X Fit a length of trim (supplied in the

12 Forge kit) to two sides of the top of
the intercooler (nearest the bulkhead and
nearside). This trim may need cutting if Forge
has been generous with the length of it.

R56 COOPER S front-mounted intercooler upgrade

Raise the front of the R56 and support
1 with axle stands underneath the front
subframe. Remove both front road wheels
and spray over the brakes with brake cleaner
to dampen any brake dust.
Look inside the front inner
2 wheelarches for a couple of access
panels. These are for the back of the
headlights and the fog-lights. They are
clipped in position and need to be removed.
From within each front wheelarch, the
3 front of the arch trim will need to be
peeled back and secured with cable ties. The
trim is retained with plastic crosshead screws,
which have to be undone and prised out.

Using a trim tool, split the front of the
4 outer wheelarch trim from the edge of
the lower front bumper trim. There are two
plastic plugs to part. Pull the plug out, then
extract both plug and socket.
Undo a grey plastic sprung trim plug
5 that attaches the wheelarch trim to the
front wing. Once undone, pull the front of the
outer wheelarch trim away from the wing. This
will help to access a Torx bolt in the next step.
Pull the front of the outer wheelarch
6 trim away from the front wing and look
for a Torx T27 bolt that secures the edge of
the bumper to the front panel. Undo this bolt
on both sides of the vehicle.

7 Detach the upper front grille. This is
secured with four trim plugs across
the top, a length of trim along the bottom
and four spring clips behind it. Prise off the
length of trim.
Disconnect the two electrical plugs for From underneath the front of the
8 9
the fog-lights. It may be easier to remove
the bulb and disconnect the plug, but don’t
vehicle, use a trim tool to separate five
plastic trim plugs that secure the bottom of
touch the glass of the bulb. On the offside the front bumper to the bottom of the front
front, there’s a grey plug for a temperature panel. These can be awkward to remove as
sensor that must be disconnected. they are concealed.

38 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Intercooler upgrade options

Undo two Torx T27 bolts along the
10 top of the front bumper. The entire
bumper can now be taken off. Carefully lift it
away from the front of the vehicle. Position
it on the ground, ensuring it won’t fall over.
With the intercooler exposed, slacken
11 the Jubilee clips for the two induction
pipes that are connected to it. Also undo
the two Torx T27 bolts that secure the
intercooler to the front panel.
Try to remove the old intercooler.
12 You may find it’s still attached to the
induction hoses. If so, break the seals by
carefully sliding a screwdriver between each
hose and the outlet on the intercooler.

13 Retrieve the two rubber locators from
the old intercooler and fit these back
onto the front of the vehicle where the Torx
T27 bolts were fitted. Fit the new intercooler
in position and tighten these two Torx bolts.
The bracket on the top of the Forge
14
intercooler can be located behind
the front panel as shown here. If this is not
possible, locate it in front and use a self-
tapping screw or nut and bolt to locate it to
the front panel.
Tighten the hoses onto the
15
intercooler. Make sure these hoses
are correctly located as they will be under
a lot of boost pressure and can blow off or
leak. If they are tough to refit, spray over the
connections with a light grease.

Trial-fit the front bumper. The sides
16 of the Forge intercooler will probably
foul the front grille that’s fitted to the
bumper. If so, Forge supplies a modified
grille, or you can modify the existing one.
To remove the grille from the bumper,
17 position the bumper face down on a
cushioned surface. Using a screwdriver, prise
away the clips. The following steps show how
to modify the existing grille.
Trial-fit the grille to roughly see
18 where it will be fouled by the edges
of the Forge intercooler. The back of the
grille will need to be trimmed to prevent it
fouling the intercooler.

W Using a hacksaw,
19 carefully cut away
a section of the back of the
grille on each side where it will
foul the intercooler. Clean-up
the cut section with a file.
Do not use an angle grinder as
it will melt the plastic grille.

X Refit the grille into

20 the front bumper,
or if you are fitting Forge’s
modified grille, fit this (see
step 17 on removing the old
grille). Fit the bumper back
onto the front of the car, then
all remaining fittings.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 39

MOTs around the world

Testing
Times
As part of its coronavirus response package, the government extended all
existing MOT tests by six months, meaning some cars on Britain’s roads
will go up to 18 months without inspection. But as Craig Cheetham finds
out, such lengths of time aren’t unusual in other countries.

O
ne of the less high-profile – but nevertheless
important parts – of the British government’s
response to the Covid-19 outbreak was to
automatically extend any MOT certificate expiring
after March 30th 2020 by six months.
The move was largely put in place to encourage social
distancing by preventing customers from having to take their
cars to garages but has also reduced the workload on repair
centres in order to focus on cars used by key workers, or
vehicles used to complete essential deliveries.
The broad-brush approach – rather than just deferring the
tests of cars that had imminent inspections – was applied
to prevent future logjams in the system, as by spreading the
extension across the entire vehicle parc, the flow of MOT work
into and out of garages won’t develop any unnatural spikes.
This should, in theory, make it easier for both garages and
motorists when things return to something resembling normal
– but could it be a precursor to a longer extension for MOT
tests in the future? After all, the UK is one of only a handful of
countries to insist on an annual inspection.
Here’s how some other countries approach the idea of
mandatory vehicle inspections.

two years, in which case a test must be

Northern
Ireland
X It may be part of the UK, but
Northern Ireland’s MOT regulations are
different to those in England, Scotland
and Wales, with a requirement for the
test to be carried out at one of only 15
government-run test centres. The test
is the same as the one in the rest of the
UK, but only applies to cars over four
years-old as opposed to three.
In January 2020, tests across the
province were cancelled and drivers
with tests due exempted after cracks
were found in ramps used to carry out
the inspections, while similar extensions
were applied in April 2020 when certain
test centres were set aside as Covid-19
treatment centres.
Isle of Man
X Until 2015, there was
no MOT test or equivalent on the Isle
of Man, but following a consultation
new rules were introduced. Now, all
goods vehicles over three years-old
require a roadworthiness inspection, as
do passenger service vehicles, newly-
imported cars and those used as hire
cars driven by tourists. All privately-
owned cars remain exempt from testing
unless they haven’t been taxed for over
carried out before they return to the
road. Roadworthiness is enforced by
roadside spot checks from the island’s
licensing authority, which has the power
to prohibit vehicles until a test is carried
out if found to be non-roadworthy.
Ireland
X In Ireland, the
equivalent to the MOT is the NCT, which
stands for National Car Test. The NCT can
be carried out by any licensed NCT centre
in the country and applies to all vehicles
over four years-old, with inspections
broadly similar to those
of the UK MOT test
taking place once every
two years on cars up to
10 years-old and then
every year after that.
The NCT costs €55, with a retest costing
€28 if the car fails. However, motorists
can get around the retest fee by getting
their car pre-inspected at a garage to
identify any failure points beforehand.
France
X Our nearest neighbours
over the channel have a test called the
Contrôle Technique, which has to be
taken every two years.
A car needs to go for its first CT
test within six months of its fourth
birthday and needs a new CT every two
years after that. The cost of the test is
between €60 and €100 depending on
the size and weight of the vehicle and
remains valid even if the car is sold.
It covers all essential safety items and
emissions, but with less of a focus on
bodywork as the UK test, as many
a French urban street scene will testify…
In France, the government took
a similar approach to that of the UK,
extending expiring CT certificates by four
months early on in the coronavirus crisis.
Germany
X The German
Hauptuntersuchung (or HU) test is one
of the most thorough in Europe and is
particularly strict around items relating
to a vehicle’s overall structure, which
explains why rusty cars are a rare sight in
Germany. Indeed, rustproofing is part of
the regular maintenance plan for many

40 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics


German motorists, meaning some really
nice examples of older cars still survive.
While the rules stipulate that the
HU is due every two years, there’s no
immediate penalty for not getting it
done and you can drive on an expired
HU for up to a year. However, it costs
€100 to get the test done before
expiry and €200 thereafter, with the
€200 test also being much stricter to
discourage drivers
from waiting longer
than two years.
An orange disc on the
rear number plate
shows when the car
last passed a test.
Italy
X Italian motorists need
to take their cars for a ‘Revisione’ test
every two years, which also checks
the documents and owners’ legal title
to the vehicle as well as the primary
safety elements.
The two-year test applies to all
vehicles regardless of age from four-
years-old onwards and costs a fixed fee
of €100. If the car fails the test, it doesn’t
need to be represented but the owner is
given a list of essential repairs that need
to be completed within two weeks.
Spain
X In Spain, ITV isn’t a
television channel. No, it’s the biennial
car safety inspection, which stands for
Inspección Técnica de Vehículos.
A car must go for its first ITV within
28 days of it reaching four years-old,
with a test carried out every two years
thereafter. Prices are fixed by the
government and vary between €38 and
€50 euros.
Spain is also one of very few countries
to also apply the same level of testing
to trailers and caravans, both of which
require an ITV test every two years.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
Netherlands
X In the Netherlands the
“Algemene Periodieke
Keuring” (APK) or General Periodical
Inspection is first carried out when
a car is four years-old. A second
inspection happens at six years and
a third at eight, after which the car is
tested every year until it is 50 years-old,
when it is exempted. The cost of an APK
test in 2020 is €58.
Belgium
X In Belgium, the
Contrôle Technique test is first carried
out when a car is four years-old and
it employs an interesting ‘traffic light’
system. If your car receives a green
certificate, which means no problems
are identified, you don’t need to
present it for another test for two
years. If, however, it receives an orange
certificate (the equivalent of a UK test
with advisories) it needs to be inspected
again at a one-year interval. The cost
of a test is €50 and
if you receive an
orange certificate
for a minor fault you
can repair it and get
the car retested for
€12 to then receive
a green one.
We think it’s
quite an interesting
model, should the
UK look at extending tests long-term.
Finland
X It’s a little-known fact,
but Finland was the first country to
adopt MOT testing and has had some
form of mandatory vehicle inspection in
place since 1917.
These days, the first test takes place
when a car reaches four years-old and
MOTs around the world
is then repeated every two years up
until its 10th birthday, with annual testing
thereafter. Owners of classic or historic
vehicles can apply for an exemption
subject to their vehicles only being used
for shows, specific classic car events
and leisure purposes.
Sweden
X The testing regime
in Sweden is also similar to the UK,
with the first test taking place at three
years, the second at five years and then
every year afterwards, though owners
of cars over 30 years can apply for an
exemption if they agree to limited use.
The ‘bilprovingnen’ test costs 375Kr, or
about £44.
Poland
X The system in Poland
is the closest to the UK system, with
every car over three years-old having
to submit to the “Przeglad” every year
at a cost of 99 Zloty (£19). The system
doesn’t have a pass or fail system, but
it does highlight problems with the
car that either must be repaired or are
advised to be fixed.
The tester also has authority to
‘fatally fail’ a car, which renders
insurance null and void and makes
it illegal to use on the road unless
mended, a rule only applied where a
fault is considered genuinely dangerous.
Greece
X Drivers in Greece have
to take their car to a Vehicle Technical
Control Centre (VTCC) every two years
for a roadworthiness test that’s very
similar to that carried out in the UK. They
are then issued with a Technical Control
Card (TCC), which must be kept in the
vehicle at all times and produced if pulled
over or involved in a traffic collision.
June 2020 pCar Mechanics 41
MOTs around the world
Japan
X Japan has two levels
of ‘shaken’ (pronounced
shar-ken), which is the name for its
MOT equivalent. The first test is carried
out when a car is three years-old and
costs around 1600Yen (around £15),
and then every two years after until
the vehicles passes 10 years of age
when much stricter testing comes
in that picks up on items such as
bodywork damage or minor corrosion
that wouldn’t necessarily affect a test
over here. The cost of testing increases
tenfold, too, which means many owners
simply get rid of their cars. It’s one of
the reasons why Japanese imports of
that age are so popular, especially in
markets such as Malta or New Zealand,
which are RHD countries with limited
domestic car supply.
Russia
X While motorists in
Russia have to get their car inspected
annually, the test isn’t especially strict
and is often bypassed with an exchange
of cash… The items inspected are front
and rear lights, tyres, the windscreen
washer (but bizarrely not the wipers)
and the steering, which must be “within
25 degrees of original specification”.
The test also checks that every
motorist is carrying essentials, which
include a fire extinguisher and first
aid kit. Alarmingly, brakes and vehicle
structure aren’t tested at all.
Australia
X The laws in Australia
vary slightly from state to state, but as
a general rule there’s no mandate to get
vehicles periodically inspected other
than when they change hands. When a
car has a new keeper it has to be taken
for a ‘Rego’, which is a fairly robust
check of its essential components and
42 Car Mechanics pJune 2020
The MOT tester’s view
X William Morgan is an MOT tester
at Morgan’s Motor Engineers
in Drayton, Norfolk. While he
understands the reasons behind
the extended tests, he has some
concerns that drivers will see it as a
reason to not maintain their cars, not
just overlook the annual inspection.
“My main concerns as a MOT
tester are that unfortunately for
some vehicles, the annual MOT test
is the only time these vehicles get looked at,” he said. “There is a common
misconception that the MOT is actually a service. It is not, it is purely an
inspection. MOT standards are not actually as high as many would think, and
especially with changes implemented in 2018, cars can now be to a lesser
standard than they were before in some areas.
“A lot can happen to a car in a year and as they get older, maintenance and
repair is essential to keep them safe and roadworthy. Sadly, many owners
don’t even do the basics such as checking tyre pressures or under bonnet
checks; these are the bare essentials of motoring and sadly get forgotten.
So long as it starts and stops that is enough for some.
“At the very least, if your MOT test is extended, check your levels, keep an
eye on your tyres for condition and listen for noises from your brakes. It takes
less than five minutes to do the basics – why would you not?”
driving with no Rego can lead to a fine
of up to AU$2,000. Traffic police are
USA
rife in most states, too, so you won’t get X Other than getting
documents inspect by the Department
away with it.
A Rego test costs Au$500 of Motor Vehicles at the time of
(approximately £255) so is one of the ownership changes, there’s no MOT
most expensive costs of buying a used tests or equivalent in any US state,
car, but it’s the only time the government though some are tougher than others
will inspect your vehicle, no matter how on the penalties meted out on people
long that might be. Some Australians driving cars in poor condition.
have owned their cars for over three An official inspection is required if a
decades and have never had them vehicle is seized and issued with a defect
inspected, while the country has one of report, where the owner has to prove
the oldest vehicle parcs in the world. this has been corrected. There are some
States, though, where roadworthiness
is barely – if at all – enforced, leading
New Zealand to many cars and trucks on the road
X While most countries with pretty serious structural corrosion
have a longer gap between tests than the among other faults. Others (including
UK, in New Zealand the testing is more the most populous states of New York
rigorous, with every car needing at least and California) have such a fearsome
an annual inspection regardless of age. fine structure that motorists are far
The NZ$59 (£29) test called the more diligent about car maintenance.
“Warrant of Fitness” needs to be carried
out once a year on cars built before
2000 and on older vehicles the testing is
Canada
even more stringent, with a mandatory X Canada has one of the
test required every six months. most relaxed approaches to periodic
vehicle testing among all countries, with
no specific roadworthiness test in place
for any of its vehicles, though insurers
tend to take a very dim view if a road
accident is caused by a defective car.
There is one piece of legislation that is
mandated, though, and it’s a biennial
emissions test to ensure cars meet air
quality regulations. It costs CA$25 and the
owner is given a sticker, which must be
displayed on the car’s rear license plate.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
 Shielding gases for
MIG & TIG Welding

Oxygen and Acetylene

cylinders also supplied
How to decontaminate your car

How to avoid
CORONAVIRUS
Rob Hawkins provides
some practical advice
to help decontaminate
in your car
your car from the risk
of coronavirus.

T
he coronavirus has spread at an
alarming rate and the world has
quickly realised that a practical
approach to avoiding it is the best
solution. Social distancing by at least two
metres and washing your hands to the tune
of Happy Birthday (twice!) soon became
the norm, but many people wanted to know What kills
more about keeping themselves safe, such
as whether the virus particles (known as
coronavirus?
X The virus known as SARS-CoV-2
SARS-CoV-2) that cause Covid-19 (short that causes Covid-19 cannot in
for Coronavirus 2019) can be transferred theory be killed because, unlike
on objects and how long it stays viable. bacteria, it is not alive to begin
We were also interested in knowing Our seven tips here aim to deal with with. Instead, it needs a host to
the answers to such questions because these questions and provide the answers become effective. In the case of
it affects many aspects of the motoring with practical advice. Unfortunately, humans, if it enters via the mouth,
industry, from dealing with the delivery there is no straightforward solution, but nose or eyes, it can take over
of parts to allowing someone else to there are many cautionary steps that human cells and start to multiply.
drive your vehicle. can be adopted. However, coronavirus that is not
inside a host (eg a human being)
can only remain viable for so long
HAND WASHING: (see Spreading on surfaces).
soap or antibacterial
hand cleaner?
X Any anti-bacterial hand cleaner needs Key cleaning
to contain at least 60% alcohol to be able
X A vehicle’s ignition key and key
to stop the virus from being effective on
fob are made of the materials
your hands. This type of hand cleaner has
that seem to allow the virus that
been in short supply due to a high demand
causes Covid-19 to exist, but they
for it. However, washing with soap (a bar
can be wiped down with a soapy
or liquid) is just as effective, providing it is
solution. Avoid drowning key fobs
done thoroughly. The soap helps to dissolve
and immobilisers in a soapy liquid
the fat membrane of each virus particle,
because it may interfere with the
effectively breaking it down and allowing it
electrical components inside.
to be removed. It also helps to unstick the
On the other hand, an ignition
coronavirus from your skin. Human skin is an
key that contains no electrics
ideal surface for the virus to stick to because
or battery can be thoroughly
the dead skin contains proteins and fatty
washed and rinsed.
acids that it can interact with. It’s pretty much
magnetic, enabling coronavirus particles to be picked off from other surfaces.
The government advice to spend at least 20 seconds washing your hands
helps to ensure the soap covers all the skin on your hands and effectively
breaks down or unsticks the virus particles before rinsing them off. Rinsing
your hands with water and no soap does not remove virus particles from your
skin as effectively as using soap and water.
The virus particles can get trapped under your fingernails, so keep them
short and gently scrub them with a nailbrush and soapy water.

44 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 How to decontaminate your car

Spreading on surfaces Filling up with fuel

X The virus that causes Covid-19 X When filling up, the nozzle
cannot spread and multiply on a may be contaminated with virus
surface. It needs a host, such as a particles. Even if it is regularly
human being, in which to multiply cleaned, it’s only as clean as the
(technically speaking, it needs a last person who touched it, so
human body cell). However, it can treat it with caution and wear
continue to exist on some surfaces disposable gloves to hold the
and be a threat to human beings if nozzle and operate the pay-
transferred via the mouth, eyes or nose. at-pump payment machine (if
In March, the New England Journal of Medicine (NEJM.org) published the available), or use a contactless
findings of testing the virus particle (known as SARS-CoV-2in the report) on a payment method, although this
variety of surfaces. Air was mixed with SARS-CoV-2 inside a drum to replicate is limited to a maximum of £45.
human lungs and create an aerosolised environment. This was spread across When you’ve finished, carefully
several surfaces to see what would happen if a person coughed or breathed remove these gloves, turning
on them. The surfaces included cardboard, plastic, stainless steel and copper. them inside out and putting them
The virus was more stable on plastic and stainless steel and was still regarded in a bin. Wash your hands at the
as viable after 72 hours. On copper, no viable virus particles were found after earliest opportunity.
four hours. On cardboard, viable virus particles were not found after 24 hours.

Cleaning inside a car

X Assuming the virus that causes
Covid-19 is present inside a car,
the steps required to remove it are
potentially quite involved. The first
stage is to determine how it got
inside in the first place. If someone
has coughed or sneezed inside
the vehicle, the air and moisture
from their mouth will have spread
across the interior and possibly
covered the glass, headrests, headlining, interior trim, dashboard and
steering wheel. However, for those droplets of saliva containing the virus that Deliveries
causes Covid-19 to infect you, they need to enter your nose, mouth or eyes. X Research has shown the virus
There is no data on how long the virus remains viable on upholstery, but we that causes Covid-19 can exist on
do know that a temperature above 77°C will destroy it. Steam-cleaning the packaging such as cardboard for
headlining and upholstery, including the boot carpet, will help here, but only if the up to 24 hours, so such deliveries
steam from the cleaner is above this temperature when it hits the upholstery. need to be treated with caution.
Wiping over plastic-coated surfaces such as the dashboard, steering Allocate a decontamination area
wheel, door handles, switches and gearstick with anti-bacterial wipes will in your house or garage, which
only be effective if the wipes contain at least 60% alcohol. Instead, use soapy can be used to unpack a delivery,
water and kitchen towels (or blue roll) to wipe over each surface. This also wash it down and dispose of any
applies to vinyl and leather upholstery. Avoid over-wetting any switches. unwanted cardboard. It’s not
Wear disposable gloves when doing this, disposing of them afterwards; just the exterior packaging that
and then wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water. can be contaminated with virus
particles: the same problem
applies to whatever packaging is
inside, so dispose of it carefully.
Cleaning the exterior
X The door handles, boot and
bonnet are potential hazards for
catching coronavirus, especially
if more than one person touches
these areas. And even if only one
person touches them, there’s still
the risk of cross-contamination
from touching other objects or
other people coughing and sneezing
on to them. Washing them down
with soapy water is one precaution,
but it’s perhaps better to assume
these areas are contaminated, so avoid touching your face after coming into
contact with them and always wash your hands after using the vehicle.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 45

 Dealer’s Diary
Our man in the trade, Steven Ward, is run over and
marvels at what a Chrysler Voyager has to offer.

Pedestrian I know of a customer whose front bonnet airbag was

impact
X New cars have a whole suite of features
now designed and fitted to protect
anyone who steps in front of a moving
vehicle. All of these features are a pain
in used cars. Calibrating front sensors
isn’t straightforward or cheap if the
windscreen has been out or the front end
apart. Paying to replace them when they’ve
actually been damaged by something like
a stone chip or light tap is a fortune too.
Don’t even get me started on the
sensors that sense an obstruction and
apply the brakes – they’ve utterly ruined
racing up to toll booths or dashing
around town. They look ugly too.
I know of a customer whose front
bonnet airbag was triggered in a Land
Rover and it was off the road for months
because the new airbag and the various
body control units simply wouldn’t talk
to each other. It cost a fortune for a new
airbag too – all due to an errant pheasant.
triggered in a Land Rover and it was off the road for months.
Then there are plastic headlamps
that discolour, bumpers that shatter,
wiper arms you can’t get at to change
the blades, the bunching together of
components under the bonnet to allow
a ‘crush space’ and door mirrors with
fragile casings and mechanisms. ‘Bring
back chrome wing mirrors!’ That’s what
I used to say. Customers who also said
they bought cars based on these NCAP
safety requirements got on my wick.
And yet, its not until you’ve actually
been run over, as I was, that you begin
to appreciate the advances made in
car design. Being in the motor trade
since I was a boy, I was used to being
clipped or slightly crushed by cars. It’s
an occupational hazard, after all. But
getting run over at speed while out for a
walk, well that’s another thing.
I was clobbered by a speeding driver
who had turned off a main road, into a
minor road and then into a side street,
where I was crossing the road. He’d
been close behind a Zafira that was
obstructing his view and was then
blinded by the low sun. The worst thing
was, I could see it coming (despite the
driver not once signalling) and I ran to
get out of the way.
I was struck as I tried to jump clear
and sent over the front and around the
passenger side of the car, knee striking
the headlamp, hip on the bonnet, human
arm against wiper arm, door mirror
to the ribs, A-pillar to the kidney. My
Unipart rucksack went flying.
I was whisked to A&E where I was put
in a gown, X-ray’d, checked all over, and
made to lie around with a cup of my own
urine. I was given the all-clear and told
to stay off work for up to six weeks as my
body recovered. Luckily, but admittedly
in some pain, I managed to get to work
the next week after a few chiropractic
sessions and a dose of pain relief.
So don’t let anyone tell you new cars
go overkill on the safety features...

Lagonda-Lite
X Back when men were men and being a millionaire meant
something, those with both wealth and taste (such a rare
combination) and a need for four doors bought the Aston
Martin Lagonda – so brutally styled by Bill Towns.
These days, millionaires are 10-a-penny and they all
drive SUVs like everyone else. Aston Martin did however
try to recreate the super-sports saloon in 2009 with the
Rapide, a name taken from the Lagonda back-catalogue.
While being nowhere near as dramatic as the 1970s
Lagonda, it looked leagues better than the woeful Porsche
Panamera. A friend of mine who made a million overnight in the Booked at £28k trade, the Aston didn’t
recession went straight out and bought a Rapide with his new-
found wealth. You can judge a man by the company he keeps...
attract a single bid; not online or in the hall.
He ran it, without a single issue, for eight years until he had This Rapide did have five previous owners, but it came
too many children for the car to cope. The only problem was direct from a BMW dealer. It had a spare key, a condition
the bark of the exhaust when he left the estate early to catch report that graded it as a 2 (excellent news) and a 39-point
a train. Astonishingly, you can still buy a brand-new Rapide – mechanical report that found nothing amiss. It did need a pair
but you’re more likely to see one parked up at Costco than at of replacement Bridgestones ASAP, if not a full set, but that’s
your local AML dealer. nothing to worry about.
What does it cost to get into a tasteful supersaloon these Booked at around £28k trade, the Aston didn’t attract a single
days? Well Manheim had one listed the other week, so I thought bid; not online or in the hall after a week and more of being
I’d watch it. 2011/11-plate, the 5.9 V12 auto looked utterly listed. Admittedly, it was in Plymouth – but you expect to travel
contemporary in dark grey metallic with a black leather interior. for such a high-end vehicle. Rumour is, and you never heard this
The car had covered a genuine 65k miles with eight Aston from me, £28k (all in) would have seen you driving it away (with
service stamps in the book. In fact, it had just received a service trade plates, naturally). Considering a new one is £195k and now
and MOT a few weeks before being entered into the sale. looks like a Max Power project, that’s an absolute bargain.

46 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Dealer’s Diary

Minivan
X Chrysler were first out of the blocks
with the MPV genre in 1984, beating
Renault with their Espace by a few
months. Sadly, we are denied both of those
classless and versatile wonders these
days, which is a shame. The last Voyager
we got was the Mk5, which surprisingly
remains in production – only until July.
Some were badged Lancia following the
Fiat takeover, but this fooled nobody.
The last Voyager was a very refined
alternative to a Transit van – and just
as big. At over five metres long and just
under two metres wide, don’t expect it to
fit into the last space outside the chippy,
but they are surprisingly easy to position
– being boxy and with a Range-Rover-
aping driving position. Most have front
and rear parking sensors too.
Inside they are capable of seating
seven full-size Yanks – and to keep them
entertained, mini TVs magically power out
of the roof lining. To keep them hydrated,
there was also a plethora of super-size
drink holders. There were two (powered)
sliding doors and a full-depth power
tailgate. But the really amazing thing is
that five of the armchairs were capable
of folding flat into the floor, turning the
MPV into a van. And being American,
they had a cool name: Stow ‘n’ Go.
I was at the Paris salon when it was
launched in Europe and three of us spent
well over an hour poring over the details.
The ingenuity and attention to detail
inside fascinated us but, underneath, it
was pleasingly simple with trademark
FWD, struts and a rear torsion beam.
The really
amazing thing
is that five of
the armchairs
were capable
of folding flat
into the floor,
turning the
MPV into a van.
The other thing about them is that the
Yanks love to haul (tow), so the Voyager
was designed to be a capable towcar. The
BBC used them to chauffeur the clueless
egos around in The Apprentice. Sadly, the
world turned to SUVs just as this version
came out, so sales weren’t great but,
in the reduced market, they were still
respectable. Many turn up at auctions
and they are always a pleasure to hop
into and have a bit of a play to see what’s
working. Most have led hard lives; but
then that’s understandable.
Wilsons Auctions had one, direct from
the main dealer. It was on the 58-plate
with a genuine 64k miles. While it was
not mint, it struck the balance between
being presentable yet not enough so to
make you precious about using it for runs
to the tip and carrying spare engines and
dirty bikes. Finished in silver, with a grey
interior and elm inserts, it would have
been satisfying to valet.
The other thing about these is that
they use the 2.8 4-cylinder VM diesel
TOP TIP
I’ve recently
discovered a new
type of wiper blade
from Michelin called
Stealth. They are
as easy to fit as the
Bosch blades I’ve used for years. They look
good but your wiper arms sit slightly proud.
Don’t confuse them with ‘old-style’ skeleton
blades that are still available from Michelin.
engine that has featured in all kinds of
cars over the years and is bombproof if
looked after. This example was the auto
too; another Chrysler strong point. It was
yours for £4k plus the out. That’s nowt,
given it’s all the car you’d ever need.
Finally, I’ve got to point out, one of
the lead designers in the whole Chrysler
Minivan story was a pitman’s son from
Seaham in County Durham. That’s why
they looked after passengers – and load
– just as much as the driver and didn’t
break the bank in doing so.

LDV Maxus!
X Following on from the Voyager
in Wilson’s auction, there was also
a freshly entered LDV Maxus being
unloaded. You could argue that this was
the ‘van that killed Britain’s indigenous
panel commercial vehicle industry’,
but the reason I mention it is that these
came equipped with the same basic VM
diesel engine as the Voyager.
This example was an ambulance-of-
sorts direct from the Red Cross. It was
mint inside and out. It actually appeared
to have been dry-stored from new,
such was its unbelievable condition.
The silver metallic paint finish was
outstanding. The loading doors were
glazed too. Even the wheels were cleaner
than your dinner plate.
The bits that made it an ambulance
could have easily been removed and
sold online for those inclined enough to
make a campervan conversion; or you
could have gone the whole hog
and converted it yourself. While
the Maxus will never attain
classic status like an LDV Pilot,
a nice commercial vehicle is
always handy to have around.
It’s ironic that this van is
now selling in numbers around
the world, including the UK
and Ireland, which would have
kept LDV viable back in the
day. Sadly, the production and
tooling were bought by SAIC
in the liquidation sale of LDV
during the last recession and shipped Midlands region’s long association with
to China. A long way from its historic this Italian lump – which started in the
Washwood Heath base, but said tooling SD1 in the early 1980s, then went into
was well travelled, emanating from the Range Rover and continued in the
Korea and going via Poland. Before Rover 800 right up until 1999.
ending up in Ward End. The surprise re-introduction of this
The ones you buy now still come with van and buoyant sales figures shows
the VM engine, continuing the West you really cannot keep class down.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 47

 Survival Guide
Ian Cushway searches out new and used parts prices

Porsche
Cayman
Has the ‘hard-top Boxster’ become an
affordable 911 for the masses? We find out…

T
here was a risk when the
Cayman was released in 2006
that it would end up rivalling
the mighty 911. Thankfully
for Porsche, at least, time has proved
otherwise, and the first-generation 987
model has forged its own path alongside
its iconic stablemate and currently looks
sensationally good value. Indeed, early
2.7-litre cars can now easily be had for
less than £10,000 in the classifieds or
about a third the price of a same-year 911.
So what is it? Well, think hatchback
Boxster with a roof and you won’t
be far off, because the mid-engined
configuration and much of the running
gear is the same. What’s more, you get
a similar amount of luggage space up
front and beneath the rear parcel shelf.
Oddly, the 3.4-litre 290bhp S arrived
first, and was followed by the base-
model 245bhp 2.7 in mid-2006.
The second-generation 987 arrived
in 2009 when power from the S rose to
315bhp courtesy of direct fuel injection
(DFI), while capacity in the standard
model grew to 2.9 litres, giving 261bhp.
The revised Cayman also benefitted from
the option of a seven-speed dual-clutch
Doppelkupplung (PDK) transmission
instead of the Tiptronic auto – essentially
two ’boxes in one – and offered super-fast
manual or auto changes.
Porsche also offered a couple of even
sportier models, namely the 303bhp
first-generation S Sport Edition, and the
330bhp second-generation R from 2011,
the latter of which weighed a bit less and
got a limited-slip differential.
The more luxurious 981 model
replaced the neat and often overlooked
Finnish-built first Cayman in 2012.
The prices quoted here were sourced
online from independent suppliers.

Flat-six Cayman engine didn’t inherit the

issues that blighted the earlier Boxster.

Engines
Access for fluid top-ups (oil and coolant)
are beneath a small flap in the rear
luggage area. Service intervals are every
two years or 20,000 miles, whichever
comes sooner. There’s a timing chain, so
on-the-dot oil changes are important –
there’s a tray underneath, but otherwise
it’s a pretty straightforward procedure.
The 24-valve M97.21 2.7 and 2.9 and
the M97.20 3.4 are all reliable units.
It’s worth knowing that the feeble
intermediary shaft (IMS) bearing was
Engine
component 2006-
prices Porsche Cayman 2012
OIL FILTER base 2.7 base 2.9 S 3.4 (S1) S 3.4 (S2)
from £10.96 Engine (cc) 2687 2893 3386 3436
CLUTCH KIT Power (bhp) 245 261 290 315
from £158.65 0-60mph (secs) 5.9 5.6 5.2 5.0
RADIATOR PACK (PAIR) Top speed (mph) 160 165 171 172
from £188.10 Average fuel (mpg) 28-30 30 26 28

48 Car Mechanics p June 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics


While you can virtually ignore the IMS issues that blighted earlier Boxster
TOP
TIP
engines on the 987, the second-generation Cayman offers even more peace of
mind – it didn’t have one! What’s more, the series 2 cars have better engine
ventilation (hence don’t suffer the steering pump problem) and a more efficient
oil pump so there’s no risk of oil starvation if you want to enjoy one on the track.
replaced by a stronger item in 2006, so
won’t wear and rattle at idle on the 987
as it did on previous Boxster engines.
Moreover, bore wear on the pre-DFI
engine is incredibly rare despite forum
banter suggesting otherwise. If you
notice excessive smoke from a cold
start where oil has been sitting in
the bores, accompanied by excessive
oil consumption, then you’ve been
extremely unlucky, that’s all.
Additionally, the leaky rear main oil
seal (RMS) issue that blighted earlier
Porsches was sorted by the time the 987
arrived. If it does begin to leak for any
reason, either replace the seal with an
uprated one or put up with the driveway
oil stains because it’s tricky to replace.
There are radiators positioned behind
the two moulded air takes at the front,
making them particularly prone to
stone chip damage and being clogged by
leaves. Replacements are £188.10 a pair
from Design 911.
Still on cooling, it’s recommended
that the water pump is replaced every
40,000-50,000 miles. Both metal and
plastic impellers were used, but the
bearings tend to let go first.
There was a choice of five- or six-
speed manual in the base model and
S respectively, as well as a five-speed
Tiptronic, and PDK from 2009. None
are problematic, although the cables on
the manual are expensive to replace.
Suspension/steering
The steel monocoque chassis is the same
as in the 987 Boxster’s, with MacPherson
strut suspension all-round; the roof
section adds further rigidity. Active
suspension management (PASM) was
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
Survival Guide Porsche Cayman
Steering and suspension
components prices
TRACK ROD END (SECOND-GEN)
From £18.05
STEERING PUMP
From £102 (secondhand)
independent £444.62
an option and featured a stiffer front
anti-roll bar, although many owners find
it too stiff for everyday use – especially
if mated to the bigger 19in wheels that
were offered as an option on the S. The
base model had 17in alloys and all tyres
should have a ‘N’ rating on the sidewall.
Problems are few and far between but
watch for overheated power steering
pumps on cars that have been driven hard;
the plastic reservoir can melt and leak.
Worn track rod ends on first-generation
cars can also be an issue, in which case
a good remedy is to fit a beefier second-
generation replacement instead.
Brakes
You’ll find 298mm vented discs on the
front of the base Cayman, with 299mm
discs at the rear. Meanwhile, the S had
318mm discs at the front along with
distinctive red calipers. Both set-ups are
super effective and generally trouble-
free. Just look at the prices we found
online; £95 for a set of drilled front discs
looks very affordable!
Brake component prices
FRONT BRAKE DISCS (PAIR)
From £95
FRONT BRAKE PADS
From £50
USEFUL CONTACTS
Design 911 020 8500 8811
www.design911shop.com
Frazerpart 0151 665 0911
www.frazerpart.com
Heritage Parts Centre 01273 444000
www.heritagepartscentre.com
McPorsche (used parts) 07557 733904
www.porschepartsused.co.uk
Porscheshop 0121 585 6088
www.porscheshop.co.uk
Lifting a flap in the rear luggage area allows
straightforward oil and coolant top-ups.
Other issues
The good news is that body panels such
as the aluminium bonnet and doors
and the front wings are shared with
the Boxster, so repairs might not be as
pricey as you might have first thought.
As a guide, a carbon bonnet (with
fibreglass inner frame) is £1049 from
Design 911 while a secondhand item
will be £390 from the likes of
McPorsche. Secondhand doors from
McPorsche are listed at £165, wings are
£189 and wing mirror assemblies £179.
Oh, and the air-conditioning
condensers in the front bumper have
a lifespan of between six and eight
years, so pay £220.15 a pair from an
independent or £65 for one secondhand.
There are coolant radiators behind each air
intake so beware stone damage and clogging.
Other parts prices
FRONT BONNET
From £390 (secondhand)
AIRCON CONDENSER (PAIR)
From £220.15, or £130 secondhand
June 2020 pCar Mechanics 49
 s: Mit subishi Colt Z 30
Used Car Focu
Colt
fortified
The Z30 was a much stronger contender than its
predecessor, and the first Colt to have a truly
European flavour. But how does the Japanese hatch
stack up as a used buy? Craig Cheetham finds out.
I
t’s a little-known fact, but the 2002-
2013 Mitsubishi Colt actually has a
rather grand provenance. It was the
first all-new Mitsubishi to be styled
by French designer Olivier Boulay, who
took on the role of the Japanese firm’s
head of design while it was still part of
DaimlerChrysler, which also owned
Mercedes-Benz. It was with Mercedes-
Benz that Boulay began his career – his
three best-known designs before the
upright hatchback being the Mercedes
W140 S-Class and W202 C-Class. He
was also the lead stylist on the Maybach
62, so to design a Japanese supermini
was quite a contrast to his previous
dalliances with premium and prestige.
Revealed in European specification
at the 2003 Paris Motor Show, the Colt
arrived at quite a revolutionary time
for the supermini market. Small cars
were quickly taking over from those
in the segment above as the European
market’s best-sellers. The best-known
of the lot, the Ford Fiesta, was entering a
new generation, while other newcomers
included the Volkswagen Polo, Citroën
C3 and Honda Jazz.
Of those, while the Fiesta very quickly
became the nation’s favourite, it was the
Jazz that got the lion’s share of media
plaudits thanks to its brilliantly simple
but amazingly practical interior layout,
with a flat floor and neat, flat-folding
Engine specifications
Engine Power MPG
1.1 MiVec 75PS 51
1.3 MiVec 95PS 47
1.5 MiVec 110PS 45
1.5 CZT turbo petrol 150PS 41
1.5 DI-D 95PS 58
50 Car Mechanics pJune 2020
load bay that would easily accommodate
a tumble drier, should you ever feel the
need to drive around with one in the back.
In design terms, the Colt was more
of the same. It was developed alongside
the smart forfour, which used the same
engines, transmissions and running gear
but was very different from the floor
upwards. Whereas the smart was a four-
seater that placed style over substance,
the Colt went very much the other way,
aiming to beat the Jazz in the practicality
stakes with a similar seat-folding
arrangement and upright bodywork.
It was a clever piece of design and
one that won it a lot of praise, not least
because it was hugely more advanced
than the rather ordinary Colt that it
replaced. Unlike the Jazz, the Colt was
also offered as a three-door as well as the
five-door model that accounted for the
lion’s share of sales.
While the car was manufactured for
many countries in Japan, all European
models were constructed at the
independent NedCar plant in Börn,
Netherlands – the former Volvo facility
that started working for Mitsubishi
when it collaborated with the Swedish
manufacturer on the Carisma and S40,
both of which shared the same platform
and were built at the factory.
With the next-gen S40 moving to
Sweden, though, and the Carisma
0-60mph Top speed CO2
12.5sec 105mph 130g/km
10.6sec 112mph 143g/km
9.7sec 118mph 151g/km
7.7sec 131mph 161g/km
10.6sec 112mph 138g/km
Engine choice
X Three new engines were introduced
at the time of the Colt’s debut, known as
the MiVec engine family.
The smallest of these is a 1.1-litre
three-cylinder unit, which is essentially
the 1.5 four-pot minus one cylinder.
The unit is free-revving and smooth
and has a characterful offbeat thrum
due to its imbalance of cylinders. It’s
noisy – some may say intrusive – but
its rev-hungry nature and quirky
engine note add to its appeal in other
ways. Drive it hard and it’s a genuine
laugh. With 75PS on tap, it’s not badly
endowed, either. Rivals struggled to
match it by using 1.2-litre units with
an extra cylinder, so the Colt punches
above its weight in entry-level format. A
0-60mph time of 12.5 seconds is pretty
decent for its size too.
Moving up the range, the 1.3 and
1.5-litre engines are very perky for such a
small car and give the Mitsubishi better
performance than many of its rivals.
However, the 1.5 falls down on running
costs because its emissions (151g/km)
aren’t brilliant.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
 Used Car Focus Mitsubishi Colt Z30

Manufactured from Running gear

2002-2013 X Most of the consumable
items on the Colt are pretty
straightforward and other than the
usual checks of brake discs, pads,
spring and shock absorbers there’s
nothing specific to these cars that
you wouldn’t check out on any
general secondhand purchase.
However, there are a couple of
things to look (or listen) out for.
A clonking noise from the
back end is typically evidence of
worn torsion beam bushes; and
replacement generally involves
stripping the rear suspension. It’s
nuts-and-bolts stuff, but it’s also
fairly time-consuming.
If a knocking noise is coming
from the front, the likely culprit is
worn drop-links or drop-link bushes,
which is a far more straightforward
repair. CV joint gaiters also tend to
wear fairly rapidly.
The point of most concern,
though, is the front suspension
arms, which can suffer from the
Colt’s biggest bugbear – that
of corrosion. Inspect the upper
arms and their mounting points
carefully because they can suffer
from rust, which can ultimately
lead to the upper arm breaking free
of its mounting. This is a critical
safety check and while it should
get picked up on the MOT, it’s one
you should be extremely thorough
1.5 turbo unit
in checking. New front arms are
available from about £100 a side
All three engines are and replacement isn’t too onerous.
pretty robust – if you keep Finally, transmissions. The manual
on top of maintenance, gearboxes are pretty straightforward
its largely just routine and give little trouble, though
components they’ll need, syncromesh wear between second
though poor performance and third is fairly common, leading
could be worn injector to a slight crunching between
seals. Look for blue smoke gears. They’ll go on like this for
on start-up and be wary of miles, though. The semi-auto is a
excessive oil consumption. bit more complex and can suffer
The 1.5 Turbo is a different from software issues that can put
engine and is the old 4G it into limp mode. It’s probably the
Sirius engine, popularised only unreliable part of a Colt and
in the 1980s Colt and is best avoided unless you must
Lancer and also used by have an auto – in which case, other
Proton. The addition of a turbocharger helps disguise its age, but the emissions manufacturers have better options.
don’t. Nevertheless, it’s a sturdy and reliable powerplant that delivers punchy
performance and has no record of major failure. Indeed, there’s a reason why other
manufacturers licensed it from Mitsubishi and it all boils down to dependability.
Finally, the 1.5 DI-D diesel uses the OM639 powerplant developed with Mercedes-
Benz. It’s also found in the smart forfour and – in some markets – the Mercedes
A- and B-Class. The 95PS unit was also offered in detuned 70PS form, but this was
only ever used in the smart, with diesel sales accounting for only a tiny fraction of
Colt registrations. It’s not the most common engine, which doesn’t bode especially
well for long-term parts availability, while components unique to the engine are
generally pricy. That said, the unit has proven reliable in service and completes
what’s essentially an excellent range of reliable, low-maintenance engines.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 51

Used Car Focus Mitsubishi Colt Z30

Valuations
X The Colt has always had a pretty strong following
on the used market and in its early years it held its
value fairly well. Indeed, the more recent examples
still do – a 2012 or 2013 model in CZ2 or CZ3 trim
will still command £3500, for example.
If you’ve got around £2000 to spend then
there’s loads of choice. Not Fiesta or Corsa
numbers, of course, but your budget will run to a
decent 2008-2010 model in good condition – a far safer bet than any older car in terms of corrosion. But don’t discount
pre-facelift cars because there are some excellent examples around, especially low-milers that have been kept by elderly
owners or used as second cars. If you’re sure to check them over carefully and pay particular attention to the sills, floors
and rear wheelarches, you’ll still find an excellent – and impressively reliable – supermini for well under a grand.

facing a rather uncharismatic end, the
plant’s future was placed in the hands
of DaimlerChrysler, which used it to
construct both the Colt and the smart
forfour, though neither would attain the
sales volumes that NedCar hoped for.
At launch, the Colt was offered with a
choice of three new ‘MiVec’ engines – a
1.1-litre three-cylinder unit or a choice
of brand-new fours, in 1.3 and 1.5-litre
capacities developing 75, 95 and 110PS
respectively. All were pretty lively
compared to their rivals.
In 2004, a ‘hot’ version appeared in the
form of the 1.5-litre CZT, with 150PS on
tap. The engine is completely different
to the CZT found in more ordinary Colts,
though, and is based on the old 4G series
of units that dated back to the 1970s and
had appeared in brands such as Proton
and Hyundai as well as the old-shape
Colt and Lancer.
But that doesn’t mean it wasn’t any
good. Despite having its roots in the
1970s, it’s a lively and perky performer
and it gave the CZT a 0-60 time of just 7.7
seconds, while Ralliart models (only sold
here as grey imports) are even quicker.
In 2005, the Colt joined another car
industry fad, with the launch of the CZC,
which was manufactured for the firm
by Pininfarina in Turin, Italy. This was
a rival to small folding hardtop models
such as the Peugeot 206 CC and Nissan
Micra C+C, though its looks were at best
challenging. It sold in tiny numbers in
the UK, which is hardly surprising.
Also in 2005 came the Colt diesel,
which used a 95PS 1.5-litre three-
cylinder turbodiesel engine developed
with Mercedes-Benz, while at the same
time a new semi-automatic six-speed
‘AllShift’ gearbox was added to the line-
up on both 1.5 petrol and diesel models.
Trim levels were initially Classic,
Equippe, Sport and Elegance, while
some of the special editions over the
years included colour-themed Black and
Blue, Juro, Attivo and the retail-focused
Mirage. In later years the brand was
simplified, with CZ1, CZ2 and CZ3 being
the primary specifications.
While the Colt – in hatchback form
at least – was always regarded as a good
car, the one criticism it received was
for its fairly anodyne looks. Not what
you’d expect from Mr Maybach. But in
2008, the nose was sharpened up, taking
on Mitsubishi’s traditional narrow
headlamps and a more purposeful grille.
It was a successful facelift and made the
Colt look a lot more macho.
It remained on sale in facelifted form
until 2013, when it was phased out and
replaced – at least in part – by the ASX
crossover, reflecting a shift in tastes across
the car market from when the model was
launched. A new Mitsubishi supermini,
the Mirage, appeared in 2015 but was
pretty unspectacular by comparison.
So how does the Colt measure up as
a used buy today, and what should you
look out for?
Interior
The Colt’s interior is extremely spacious
and practical, which won it a lot of praise
when new. It also means that many
examples have been used hard, with
the excellent load space making them
popular with pet owners and those who
need decent luggage space in a small car,
such as urban shopkeepers and small
business owners.
They tend to be especially popular
for such purposes later in life, so older
examples often have scuffed or damaged
trim in the rear load area.
A common irritation is damage to or
scuffing of the grey plastic on the dash,
which flakes off to leave unsightly marks
underneath, while the gearknob also tends
to deteriorate with age – neither is a major
issue, but likewise they’re not pretty.
The cabin itself is comfortable, with
plenty of storage, though the cubby holes
on the centre console are designed to
perfectly accommodate three CD cases
either side – innovative in its day, but
more of an irritation in today’s world of
digital connectivity…
Pre-facelift examples were criticised
for their bland facias, the grey ‘flap’
under the stereo being particularly ugly,
but post-2008 examples were vastly
improved, with darker, better quality
plastics, softer edges and a smarter
steering wheel, incorporating radio
controls, that was fitted across the range.

Bodywork
All Colts left the factory with an eight-
year anti-corrosion warranty but, apart
from the very last examples, all are now
outside of this. The oldest examples are
approaching 18 years old, so are also
getting on a bit.
 Used Car Focus Mitsubishi Colt Z30
The bad news is that they suffer from
corrosion, which can be pretty serious.
Cars in general built from 2000s-onwards
Verdict
are generally pretty rust-resilient, but X While it has its shortfalls, most notably in terms of its resilience to rust, the
the Colt, sadly, isn’t one of them. Colt still makes an excellent choice of used car providing you buy carefully. It’s
The most common area to suffer from inexpensive and spacious, with interior packaging that would put many a much
corrosion is the rear wheelarch, where a larger car to shame, while its proven reliability and simple, straightforward
dirt trap inside the rear arch lip gathers maintenance requirements make it the perfect choice for those who need a
moisture and ultimately rots it from decent, dependable car on a budget.
It’s refined at cruising speeds even in three-cylinder form, while dynamically it’s
the inside out. Any bubbling on the rear
easily as competent as most of its European rivals.
arches or broken paintwork is much While no Colt is a bad choice, the pick of the range for us is the three-cylinder
more likely to be rust working its way 1.1 as it has the most character while at the same time enjoying the lowest running
through from behind rather than general costs. The 1.3 MiVec is also worthy of commendation for being more refined at
surface rust and, therefore, will require speed and both faster and smoother, though at the same time it lacks some of the
new metal rather than rust inhibitor and charm of the three-pot as a result.
a bit of a tidy-up. The 1.5 is the least convincing as a supermini as it’s more expensive to tax, fuel
It’s a known problem area and – and insure, but given the Colt’s large car packaging, in 1.5-litre form it’s a highly
capable alternative to the cars in the class above.
while not structural – can easily lead
to an MOT fail due to the rusty area
developing sharp edges. likely to lead to an MOT failure because Other problems are more trivial.
Repair sections are available for both the sills are an integral part of the car’s Cloudy headlamps are common where
sides, which goes to show how common structure. The floors are also susceptible the plastic suffers from sun-bleaching,
a problem it is, and are available quite to rust, particularly around the area but these are usually easy enough to
cheaply. But a quality repair is a skilled where they join to the sill. revive with commercially available
process and won’t come cheap – fine if While underneath, check out the rear restoration kits. If they’re really bad, used
you’re a good DIY welder and painter, but subframe mounting points, which are headlamps sell for around £40 online.
less so if you’re a home enthusiast. If both also rust-prone, and clear away all the The Colt also has large, flat panels
sides need doing, it boils down to whether dirt that you can to inspect the condition with wheelarches that flare outwards
or not a repair is economically viable. of the metal underneath. from the body, making them vulnerable
Likewise, the sills can also corrode; Facelifted post-2008 cars do appear to bumps and scrapes from less
and again full sill sections are available. to be more resilient to corrosion than confident or inexperienced motorists –
This is a less involved repair than the earlier models, though only time will tell it depends on how fussy you are about
wheelarch section but is also much more if this is genuinely the case. cosmetic appearance.

NEXT MONTH ON
TEST
Put a spring in your step and become a
SPRING & DAMPER EXPERT
X Dampers and
springs described Fault code
X How dangerous
dampers can still
pass an MOT
readers
OSuzuki Celerio 996cc diagnostics
X Assessing damper
and spring condition OBuying a Citroën DS3
ONissan Note clutch change
X MacPherson strut
DIY overhaul OVolkswagen Golf MkV parts prices
X Top mounts OJaguar XJ 3.0D DIY servicing
explained OCM Visits The Bilstein Group
X Air suspension and
adaptive suspension
detailed JULY 2020 issue out June 18

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Back to Basics: SERVICING BRAKE DISCS & PADS

SERVICING
Brake discs & pads
Rob Hawkins investigates routine servicing of brake discs,
showing how to remove, inspect and clean brake pads and
outlining the common problems that can arise with them.

R
outine servicing of a vehicle’s
brakes used to involve a complete
stripdown, including the removal
and cleaning of the brake pads,
but many service schedules for modern
cars only stipulate a visual inspection,
perhaps to save time and labour charges.
However, very little has changed
with brakes to warrant only a visual
inspection, and a routine stripdown and
clean-up helps to prolong their life. So, the
following pages provide a general guide
to servicing brake discs in this manner.
There are numerous safety points to
note when servicing brakes. The vehicle
will need to be raised and secured with
at least one axle stand to be able to
remove a road wheel, so make sure it is
on level ground with at least one wheel
chocked. Spray over the brakes with a
dedicated brake cleaner (bought from
accessory stores) before working on
them to help dampen any brake dust;
and if you have respiratory problems,
wear a breathing mask to reduce the risk
of inhaling it. Similarly, wear gloves to
protect your hands.
If your vehicle has an electronic park
brake (handbrake), it must be switched
to service mode to avoid the risk of the
handbrake being activated and causing
injury. Do not work on these brakes
unless this has been done.
If a new set of brake pads needs to be
fitted, new pads must be fitted across
an axle (eg, all pads on the front brakes).
The pistons inside the calipers will
probably need to be retracted to make
room for the new pads. And new pads
usually need to be bedded-in, which
means harsh braking should be avoided
for at least the first 100 miles of driving.
Always check the brake fluid level in the
brake fluid reservoir (normally located in
the engine bay) before and after working
on the brakes, and pump the brake pedal
to check it’s firm before driving.
There are numerous precautions
and different practices when working
on brakes. For instance, some should
be dry-fitted whereas others benefit
from a little brake grease and should be
kept well away from copper grease. The
following pages help to explain more.

BRAKE DISC SERVICING

W A thorough inspection of
1 brake discs is essential routine
maintenance. After raising and
securing the vehicle and removing the
road wheel(s), spray over the brakes
with brake cleaner to dampen any dirt
and brake dust to avoid inhaling it.
X The first check for a brake
2 disc is to measure its thickness
– if it is excessively worn, both sets
and their pads must be replaced.
Use a Vernier caliper to measure the
thickness of the brake disc, then
check your workshop manual for the
recommended minimum value.
W If the brake disc is
3 sufficiently thick but its outer
edge is coated in rust, this can
usually be cleaned off by wedging a
screwdriver against it and carefully
rotating the disc by hand. Spray
brake cleaner over the brakes after
you’ve done this.

X While most brake pads

4 can be inspected in situ, it’s
worthwhile removing the brake pads
to clean them to ensure they’re not
seized. If a large spring clip is fitted
to the outside of the brake caliper
(against the outer brake pad), remove
it with pliers – it must be refitted.

54 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Back to Basics: SERVICING BRAKE DISCS & PADS

W Most calipers use two slider

5 bolts to operate the outer brake
pad and one or two pistons to operate the
inner brake pad. In such cases, accessing
the pads requires these slider bolts to be
undone from the back of the caliper.
A cover may need to be extracted first.
X In some cases, only one of
6 the slider bolts needs to be fully
undone and extracted, allowing the
caliper to be prised off and to pivot on
the remaining slider bolt. The caliper can
still be removed if required, but the slider
bolt will remain attached to it.

Measure the thickness of the braking

Where a brake caliper doesn’t have
7 slider bolts, but instead uses pistons
to operate both brake pads, it may be
possible to extract the brake pads without
having to disturb the caliper. Look for any
pad-retaining pins, drift them out, then
pull the pads out using pliers.
9 material – the MOT test states a
If you can extract, inspect and clean minimum of 1.5mm. Clean the edges and
8 the brake pads, it’s a worthwhile backs of the pads with a soft brush, then
exercise to help prolong their lifespan, but spray over with brake cleaner. A flat file can
remember where they were fitted – they be used to deglaze the braking material
mustn’t get mixed up. Some brake pads are where it makes contact with the brake disc.
clipped into the caliper’s piston, whereas The edges can be chamfered to reduce the
others may sit inside the caliper carrier. risk of squeaks when braking gently.
W Use a wire brush to clean around
10 the caliper carrier, especially where
the edges of the brake pads sit. Brake
dust can build up here, and removing it
will help to reduce the risk of the pads
seizing. Spray over the caliper carrier with
brake cleaner afterwards.
X Clean inside the caliper where
11 the edges of the brake pads make
contact. Use a wire brush to remove any
dirt and brake dust, but avoid damaging
the rubber dust cover around any pistons.
Spray a little brake cleaner over the
caliper to dampen the dirt, but don’t
spray it over the rubber dust cover.

Check the condition of any metal
12 clips that are fitted. These may
reduce the risk of the brake pads seizing,
rattling and squeaking. Make sure they
are clean and correctly fitted. If they are
damaged, they can obstruct the fitting of
the brake pads.
Some brake pads need to be dry-fitted
13 whereas others require a smear of
copper or brake grease to the top and bottom
edges and the backs to reduce the risk of
them seizing. Brake grease is preferred on
brakes because copper grease can interfere
with electrical components such as the ABS.
Reassembly can be quite awkward.
14 Make sure any slider bolts are clean
– some should be lubricated with a little
grease unless they sit inside rubber guides.
The caliper may need to be pushed into
position to refit these bolts. Afterwards,
test the brake pedal before driving.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 55

Back to Basics: SERVICING BRAKE DISCS & PADS NEXT ISSUE
Brake drums, including combined
discs and handbrake drums.

TYPICAL TROUBLE

STICKING PADS The paint on the backs

and edges of the brake pads (in particular
new pads), can obstruct the fitting of
them in the caliper or caliper carrier,
especially if the pads sit inside metal
clips. It may help to file the edges of the
brake pads to reduce the risk of them
sticking, but don’t file them too much;
they may become loose and could rattle.
RUSTY SLIDER BOLTS The slider bolts
should be free of corrosion, so if you manage
to extract them and discover they are either
coated in dirt (rubber and old grease), or
rust, clean them with emery cloth paper. If
a slider bolt sits in a rubber guide, dry-fit it,
otherwise lubricate it with grease.
SEIZED SLIDER BOLTS A corroded
slider bolt may seize into the caliper
carrier. It may be possible to apply heat to
release it, but this may involve removing
the caliper and carrier together and
securing them in a vice.

WEAR SENSOR WIRING Some brake
pads have a wear sensor attached to them
and wiring connected. Be careful when
detaching any wiring to avoid damaging it.
In some cases, if the wear sensor has been
triggered or new pads are being fitted,
the sensor has to be renewed.
RETRACT A PISTON It’s worthwhile
checking each piston inside a brake caliper is
free by trying to retract it. This may require a
windback tool to screw the piston in (usually
for a rear brake), or water pump pliers to
push it in. It may be necessary to retract a
piston to be able to refit the caliper.
STICKING PISTON If a piston inside
a caliper cannot be retracted, try gently
pressing the brake pedal to see if it moves
out (not too far, or it’ll pop out). If it has
seized, spray a little penetrating fluid
down its sides, as shown here, then try to
retract it (see the previous step).

NEW DISCS & PADS

X New brake discs should be fitted in pairs (eg, both front discs) along with new brake pads (don’t fit old pads with
new discs). Removing a brake disc may require the caliper carrier to be removed and will definitely require the caliper
to be taken off. The brake disc could be retained with a securing screw located somewhere on the centre face of the
disc. The old disc may need a few taps with a hammer to help release it (wear safety goggles). After removing the
disc, clean up the mating surface on the hub with a wire brush/wheel before fitting the new disc. Spray over the new
components with brake cleaner after fitting them.

56 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Spotlight on car security

Don’t fall prey

With car theft on the
rise, what can you do
to keep your vehicle
safe? Chris Randall
takes a closer look
at the problem and
a few solutions.

Y
ou’d be forgiven for thinking
that automotive technology
would have helped to make car
theft a thing of the past, but the
reality is anything but. In fact, recent
figures from the Office for National
Statistics and the Association of British
Insurers show that vehicle theft and
insurance claims are continuing to rise.
In the case of the former, crime figures
for England and Wales for the year a vehicle (up 2%). And these numbers protecting your treasured motor.
ending June 2019 showed there were continue to rise. In part, that can be So with the days of just removing the
115,777 cases of theft or unauthorised attributed to the widespread adoption of rotor arm long gone, CM takes a look at the
taking of a motor vehicle (up 7% year- keyless-entry systems – but it’s clear that precautions you can take to help ensure
on-year) and 284,225 cases of theft from caution is still needed when it comes to you’ll find your car where you left it.

Visual deterrents
X While they aren’t going to provide the ultimate in security – not on their own, at
any rate – traditional measures such as these may just help deter the casual car
thief, and that has to be a good thing. There are a variety of affordable products
on the market, one of the most popular being the Disklok (right). It has won
plenty of awards since arriving on the scene in the mid-1990s, and has the added
benefit of preventing airbag theft too. It’s available for all manner of steering wheel
sizes, including vans, and costs about £120.
Notably cheaper at £30-£35 is the Stoplock (below left); while not a sophisticated
device, it’s simple and easy to use and less bulky to tuck away when not in use.
If you want to further delay an attack on your vehicle, it may be worth investing in
a pedal lock. The one here is called the Clutch Claw (below right), which locks the
clutch and brake pedals together; at less than a £100 it’s an affordable addition to
your security regime and will fit a wide variety of vehicles.
Ultimately, someone
determined to steal a car
isn’t going to be put off by such devices. But if you own a cheap
car – where employing more expensive and sophisticated
security tech doesn’t really make financial sense – all these
products are certainly worth considering.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 57

Spotlight on car security

Electronic & other solutions

X For many years most modern vehicles have been
equipped with some form of alarm system, but they
could often be quite basic and on an older car may have
failed altogether by now. Which is where the aftermarket
comes in, and there’s a wealth of choice when it comes to
sophistication and budget. Okay, so it may seem old-hat
nowadays and most of us have walked past a vehicle with
its siren blaring without taking much notice, but this is still
a useful way of alerting you to an attack on your car when
it’s parked outside your home or workplace.
Prices for a relatively simple remote-controlled alarm
system that provides ultrasonic interior and perimeter Thatcham-accredited system that’s operated via a touch
protection (for doors, boot, etc) start at about £100, key or dongle within the cabin.
although you could easily spend four times that amount An alternative is something like the ‘Ghost’ system from
on a system that adds features to overcome the risk of Autowatch, which operates via the car’s CAN-bus network.
cloning of the car’s key. Alarms can be fitted on a DIY basis Essentially it works by allowing the owner to use the
but unless you’re confident with vehicle electrics we’d buttons already fitted within the cabin – on the dashboard,
advise on professional installation. door panels or steering wheel, for example – to make a
As for immobilisers, OEM systems have been fitted unique code, which is then entered in sequence to disarm
for many years (remember the keypad used by certain the system and allow starting. It can also be disarmed via a
Peugeot and Citroën models?), and once again there are smartphone app that connects to the vehicle. The system
aftermarket options. Around £50-£60 will get you a simple is compatible with a wide range of models.

Tracking Keyless theft

X If the worst happens and you’ve
been unsuccessful in preventing
your car being stolen, at least
a tracking device gives you a
fighting chance of getting it back.
While not the only option, the
system offered by Tracker is
the best-known and has been
around since 1993. Utilising a
combination of GSM, GPS and
VHS signals (the last-named
prevents the use of jamming
devices and works even if the
car is concealed in a shipping
container or the like), the police
can use detecting equipment in
their vehicles to find a stolen car.
It’s effective but, given the need
to have the system’s electronics
located in the car, professional
installation is a must. And while
not cheap (it costs £360 plus
a subscription, which starts at
£179 for 12 months) it may be
considered a small price to pay for
the speedy recovery of a stolen car.
X Perhaps the most worrying aspect of modern vehicle theft is one that
doesn’t involve smashing windows or cutting through steering locks. The
use of keyless-entry systems means it is all too easy for a thief to access a
car, and they can be inside and driving away within seconds. The problem
is that the key fob emits a signal that is picked up by the car as the owner
approaches, allowing them to open the doors and activate the ignition… and
therein lies the weakness. In a ‘relay attack’ a thief uses a device to pick up
that signal from the key – when it’s inside your house, say – and send it to a
transmitter positioned close to the vehicle. That fools the car into thinking the
key is present, and the doors are unlocked.
That also means that once inside, a key fob programmer (too easily bought
on the internet) can be plugged into the OBD port and a new fob programmed
within seconds. Car makers are well aware of the problem and are working
hard on solutions to eliminate the flaws, such as introducing ultra wide-band
technology for keys. But there are a few things you can do to minimise the
risk. One is to ask the manufacturer if the signal from the fob can be switched
off, or the keyless-entry system disabled. Some fobs also feature a motion
sensor and go into a ‘sleep mode’ when they are stationary (eg, when sitting
inside a house) so they don’t emit a signal.
While you’ll find advice about wrapping the fob in tin
foil or putting it in the microwave to block any signals,
a better solution is to buy a Faraday pouch (right),
a small, metal-lined bag in which to store the key fob
and block the signal. There are loads for sale and
many are temptingly priced, but you’ll want to ensure
that it actually does what it is supposed to. And if you
don’t opt for one of these, at least keep keys and fobs away from doors and
windows, making it harder to detect the signal they emit.
And on the subject of the OBD there’s one further option to consider, which
is some type of locking device. Various types are available, ranging from a
simple steel box that locks over the port (although these are often aimed at
vans and other commercial vehicles) to a system that uses a switch hidden
within the cabin to disable the port. It can then be activated when access is
required – for example, when servicing or carrying out fault diagnosis.
Lastly, it’s worth noting that in 2019 Thatcham Research began rating
keyless-entry systems for their resistance to a relay attack, so it is worth
checking how your vehicle performed.

58 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Spotlight on car security

Marking USEFUL CONTACTS

Autowatch
X There’s yet another layer of autowatch.co.uk
security you can add – by opting Clutch Claw
for some form of vehicle marking nkgroup.co.uk
system. Probably the most well- Datatag
known is that offered by Datatag datatag.co.uk
who have been around since the Disklok
early 1990s, when they developed disklokuk.co.uk
the marking system for use on motorcycles. Since expanded to cover all Scorpion Alarms
manner of vehicles – not just cars, but construction equipment and jet skis scorpionauto.com
too – it’s both impressively simple and very effective. Stoplock
As the company explains, it uses multiple layers of technology to deter saxon-brands.com
theft, so buying a kit for £99 provides four different approaches. The first are Tracker
stencils and etching fluid to mark components permanently, then the ‘datadots’ tracker.co.uk
(microdots containing a unique forensic code, and attached to panels and
parts using a UV-traceable glue that shows up when scanned).
Next come tiny transponders that can be inserted into any part of the Verdict
vehicle, from the wiring loom to within upholstery. And finally a set of tamper- X From the statistics alone it’s clear
proof warning decals. It will likely prove that vehicle theft is still an issue – and
virtually impossible to remove all traces shows no sign of going away – so
of the system from a vehicle, making we’d encourage you to make sure
this a very effective option. that protection is up to scratch. There
are plenty of options, from simple
mechanical devices to rather more
sophisticated systems, with something
to suit most pockets.
Whether your car is old or one of the
latest models it’s going to be at risk, so
fitting added security can be regarded
as a very worthwhile investment.

Vehicle We supply a
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www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 59

Fiat Panda 1.2

Pocket
money
Panda
Rob Hawkins follows
as Turin Motors service
the popular Fiat Panda
and complete several
common maintenance- Overall
BROUGHT TO YOU WITH
difficulty
related repairs. rating

T
he cheap-to-buy and cheap-to-
run Fiat Panda seems to have
a good reputation for being a
reliable workhorse, especially
the model we’re servicing here, which
covers manufacturing years 2004 to
2012. Typical problems appear to be
reasonably straightforward to fix and
we’ve covered many of them, including
worn front suspension lower arms,
droplinks and brake discs and pads.
The Panda is quite an easy car to
service and work on. Its suspension
consists of MacPherson struts and lower
arms at the front, along with an anti-roll
bar. At the rear, there’s a torsion beam axle
PRINT & ONLINE MANUALS
Equipment required i Jack i axle stands (or ramp) i oil tray i oil filter strap
i sockets/spanners 5.5-18mm, 12mm Allen key, screwdrivers,
wheel brace i pry bars i water pump pliers i pliers i side cutters i battery tester i antifreeze hydrometer
i hammers i wire brush i spray grease i dielectric grease i copper grease i vice grips i round file i brake
cleaner i tyre pump i torch i torque wrench i rags for cleaning i disposable gloves i clean jug and funnel
with separate coil springs and dampers. manually adjusted, which we’ve outlined
The brakes on the Panda consist of in the following pages.
single-piston calipers at the front and The photographic steps were all
drums on the rear. The rear brake shoes completed at Turin Motors of Leeds on a
are supposedly self-adjusting, but Italian 2012 Panda that had failed its MOT test,
car specialist Turin Motors has found but was repaired, serviced and was back
that it rarely works. Luckily, it can be on the road once again.

Rob says Underbonnet layout BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR

X Look out for rusty and leaky engine FUSES

CLUTCH FLUID RESERVOIR
oil sumps. According to Turin Motors,
SPARK PLUGS x 4
they take a battering from road dirt UNDER AIR FILTER HOUSING
and consequently
corrosion spreads. ENGINE OIL
Paint-protecting it may DIPSTICK
help to slow this down, SCREENWASH AIR FILTER
but an aftermarket INSIDE PLASTIC HOUSING
replacement costs
around £40 plus fitting.
ROB HAWKINS
Special Contributor

THANKS GO TO
Turin Motors Limited 0113 245 8787
www.turinmotors.co.uk
12,000 miles service from £100 COOLANT ENGINE OIL
Timing belt and tensioner renewal £185 RESERVOIR FILLER CAP 12V BATTERY

M A I N TA I N Y O U R C A R W I T H H AY N E S
60 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

EXTERIOR INSPECTION
1 AIRCON CONDENSER
Look through the front grille to check the
condition of the aircon condenser. Turin
Motors finds that its cooling fins often break
off, leaving large gaps between the slats
where the aircon gases pass. The airflow
appears to keep the condenser in working
order, but it’s worth considering changing if
the damage to the cooling fins is extensive.
4 TEST HEADLIGHTS
Operate all of the controls to check the
exterior lighting for the headlights, taillights,
indicators, hazards and fog-lights. If a bulb
inside the headlight isn’t working, it can be
accessed from the back of the unit inside the
engine bay. There’s a metal clip to release for
an access panel to some of the bulbs.
7 TOP-UP SCREENWASH
The screenwash reservoir’s filler cap is next
to the filler cap for the engine coolant. Use a
clean funnel to pour a mixture of water and
screenwash concentrate into the reservoir.
There’s not much room, so a funnel is essential
to avoid spilling the screenwash solution.
PRINT & ONLINE MANUALS
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DIY Servicing 2012 Fiat Panda 1.2 petrol
3 CHECK TYRES
Check all tyre pressures
and inspect the tread and
sidewalls, looking for uneven
wear and damage. Remove
the spare wheel, check its
pressure and condition, then
refit and lubricate the steel
thread of the plastic insert
that holds the wheel and
toolkit inside the boot.
TOP TIP
Grease the
locating dowels
for the rear
light units.
5 REAR LIGHT BULBS
If any of the rear exterior lights are not
working, the rear light unit will need to be
removed. Open the tailgate to reveal three
10mm bolts to undo. Prise out the light unit,
which is fitted to the bodywork on locating
dowels, so it may be stiff to release. The bulbs
are accessed from the inside of the light unit.
8 CHECK BATTERY
The battery is located on the nearside of
the engine bay. Check it’s securely fitted
with a clamp or strap and its two terminals
are also secure. Apply petroleum jelly to the
two terminals and use a battery tester or
voltmeter to check its output voltage.
2 CHECK WIPERS
Operate and test the
windscreen wipers and washers
along with the rear wiper. Lift
each wiper blade and check
the rubber strip. Turin Motors
discovered the rear wiper blade
had split on this vehicle, which
is not inspected as part of the
MOT test.
UNDERBONNET CHECKS
6 CHECK COOLANT
The coolant reservoir is located near the
offside front corner of the engine bay. When
the engine is cold, shine a torch below the filler
neck to check the level. The MAX marker is just
below the bottom of the angled filler neck. Use
an antifreeze hydrometer to check the coolant
and see whether it needs to be replaced.
9 CHECK BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid reservoir is located on the
nearside of the engine bulkhead. Shine a
torch at the side of it to see the level. There
are MAX and MIN markers on the nearside
of the plastic reservoir. If the level needs
topping-up, use DOT 4 brake fluid.
June 2020 pCar Mechanics 61
DIY Servicing 2012 Fiat Panda 1.2 petrol
UNDERBONNET CHECKS CONTINUED
10 CHECK CLUTCH FLUID
The clutch fluid reservoir is a small
reservoir with MAX and MIN marked on
the translucent body along with two rings
around the entire outside – so shine a torch
against it to check the level. Top-up with
DOT 4 brake fluid if the level is low.
AIR FILTER & SPARK PLUGS
13 REMOVE AIR FILTER BOX
The air filter plastic housing has to be taken
off to renew the filter element. Undo two
10mm mounting bolts, detach a breather
pipe at the offside, then lift it up and release
the two breather pipes on the underside,
near the throttle body. The smaller of these
can break off at the outlet on the air box.
OIL & FILTER
16 UNDO DRAIN PLUG
From underneath the Panda, undo the sump
drain plug with a 12mm Allen key. We found
that the drain plug was overly tight, so the
leverage from a long Allen key tool was
needed. Allow the oil to drain for several
minutes, then refit the drain plug and
tighten it to 20Nm.
M A I N TA I N Y O U R C A R W I T H H AY N E S
62 Car Mechanics pJune 2020
11 GREASE CATCHES & LOCKS
The bonnet release mechanism is located in
the centre of the slam panel, sandwiched in
between it and the front grille. Spray a light
oil or similar lubricant over it to help reduce
the risk of it seizing. Also, spray this inside
the locks for the doors and tailgate.
14 OPEN AIR FILTER BOX
Undo six 7mm bolts to split the air filter box
in two and access the air filter. Extract the
old one, clean inside the air filter box, then
fit a new one. If you don’t need to replace
the spark plugs, the air filter box can now
be refitted, otherwise see the next step for
removing the spark plugs.
17 RENEW OIL FILTER
The spin-on oil filter can be accessed from
underneath the engine, close to the front of
the vehicle. Use an oil filter strap to undo it.
Have a drain bowl or container underneath
to catch any oil that spills out. Add a smear
of fresh oil to the seal of the new oil filter
before fitting it and tightening it by hand.
12 CHECK AUX DRIVEBELT
There’s not much space to inspect the
auxiliary drivebelt. Use a torch and look for
cracks in the ribs and fraying. The drivebelt
shown here has started to crack across the
ribs, so Turin Motors advised the customer
to have it renewed soon.
15 RENEW SPARK PLUGS
The plugs are located across the side of the
engine closest to the bulkhead. Carefully
prise the HT leads off the top of each plug,
then use a 16mm socket to extract and renew.
Tighten the new plugs to 25Nm and add a dot
of dielectric grease (prevents corrosion) on
the tops before refitting the HT leads.
18 5W-40 FULLY-SYNTHETIC
Measure 2.8 litres of 5W-40 fully-synthetic
engine oil into a clean jug, then pour it
into the engine via the filler cap. Run the
engine to ensure the oil pressure warning
light doesn’t remain illuminated on the
dashboard. Switch off, look for leaks, check
the level again and top-up if required.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

UNDERSIDE INSPECTION
19 CHECK RADIATOR
Turin Motors has found that the plastic
header tanks on the side of the Panda’s
front-mounted radiator can crack and leak,
so inspect around them for signs of dried
or fresh coolant. Squeeze the coolant pipes
connected to the radiator to look for leaks
and perishing.
22 CHECK EXHAUST
There’s not much to the Panda’s exhaust
system, yet it will corrode over time. The
double-skinned rear silencer shown here has
almost lost its outer layer of metal, though
it still works and doesn’t leak, so it can
continue being used.
TOP TIP
Renew the
lower arm’s
pinch bolt –
it usually
seizes.
25 FRONT LOWER ARMS
The rearmost mounting bush for the lower
arms is prone to wearing – check it with a
pry bar along with the other inner mount and
the outer balljoint. Turin Motors charges £110
to supply/fit a new lower arm. Undo a 13mm
pinch bolt for the outer balljoint (and split
the balljoint) and a couple of 18mm bolts.
PRINT & ONLINE MANUALS
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DIY Servicing 2012 Fiat Panda 1.2 petrol
20 CHECK GEARBOX OIL
The gearbox oil inspection plug is the same
size as the engine oil drain plug (12mm Allen
key) and is located on the side of the gearbox,
close to the back of the radiator’s cooling fan.
Undo it and if oil doesn’t drip out, check the
level with a cable tie. It holds 1.65 litres and
Haynes recommend a Fiat gear oil (75W-85).
Tighten the inspection plug to 20Nm.
SUSPENSION CHECKS
23 CHECK FRONT DROPLINKS
Wiggle the long anti-roll bar droplinks
located behind the front wheels. They’re
secured with 16mm nuts at the top and
bottom, and may require a pair of vice grips
to stop the balljoint’s thread spinning when
undoing the nut.
26 CHECK REAR SPRINGS
Visually inspect the rear coil springs, looking
for fractures. Check the spring pan where
the bottom of the coil spring sits. This can
corrode and break up, eventually releasing
the coil spring. The spring pan is part of the
rear beam assembly.
21 DRIVESHAFT BOOTS
The driveshafts are straightforward to
inspect from underneath the Panda, so
squeeze the rubber boots at either end to
check for perishing, cracks, escaping grease
and the risk of dirt and water getting inside.
Make sure the ends of the rubber boots are
securely fitted.
24 INSPECT FRONT STRUTS
The front suspension struts can corrode
around the area where the bottom of each
coil spring is seated. There’s a lot of pressure
exerted here, so carefully scrape the underside
with a screwdriver or pry bar to check it.
Visually inspect the springs for fractures.
27 CHECK REAR DAMPERS
Turin Motors has found the upper mounting
bush for the rear dampers can perish and
break down, resulting in a rattle when
driving the vehicle. New bushes are available,
although slightly different in design to the
original Fiat product.
June 2020 pCar Mechanics 63
DIY Servicing 2012 Fiat Panda 1.2 petrol
BRAKE CHECKS
28 REMOVE REAR DRUMS
The rear brake drums are secured with two
road wheel locating studs, so undo these
with a 12mm deep socket, then hit the face
of the drum (not the edges) to shock and
release it before prising it off by hand.
31 ADJUST BRAKE SHOES
If the brake shoes and drum can be reused,
trial-fit the drum to check the shoes are not
too tight or slack. If they need adjusting,
remove the drum and move the adjuster
shown here. This should be a self-adjusting
set-up, but Turin Motors finds it rarely works.
34 RETRACT PISTON
Check the piston inside the brake caliper can
be retracted with a pair of water pump pliers.
If new discs and pads are being fitted, check
the brake fluid level inside the reservoir (see
step 9). Some fluid may need to be extracted
if there’s a risk it could rise too much.
M A I N TA I N Y O U R C A R W I T H H AY N E S
64 Car Mechanics pJune 2020
29 CHECK BOOTS & PISTONS
Prise back the rubber dust boots on either
side of the wheel cylinder to look for brake
fluid leaks. Push one of the pistons in to
check it moves freely, then check the other
piston. Inspect the shoes (minimum 2mm
friction material) and clean around them.
32 FRONT BRAKES
The front disc brakes consist of single-
piston calipers. To strip them, extract a small
metal clip for the lower retaining pin, then
drift this pin out of the bottom of the caliper.
The bottom of the caliper is secured to the
carrier with this pin.
35 REMOVE CALIPER
To replace the front brake discs, the caliper
and its carrier need to be removed by undoing
two 17mm bolts that mount the carrier to
the hub/upright. Suspend the brake caliper
on top of the suspension lower arm to avoid
over-stretching the brake flexi-hose.
30 HANDBRAKE MECHANISM
Make sure the handbrake lever is off, then
check the silver handbrake mechanism
(circled) is sitting against the inside of the
rearmost brake shoe. If it isn’t, adjust and
slacken the handbrake cable at the lever
(underneath the centre console compartment).
33 REMOVE PADS
Prise the base of the caliper upwards and
check the upper slider isn’t seized. Remove
the brake pads and inspect them. We’re
renewing the brake disc and pads as the
pads are worn beyond the limit and the
brake disc is heavily corroded.
36 REMOVE BRAKE DISC
The disc is secured to the hub with two road
wheel locating studs – use a 12mm deep socket
to undo them. Hit the face of the disc with a
hammer to help shock and release it. Clean the
mating surface of the hub with a wire brush
in preparation for fitting of the new disc.
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37 CLEAN CALIPER & CARRIER
Spray over the caliper and carrier with brake
cleaner and clean it with a wire brush (avoid
damaging the rubber dust cover around the
piston). Use a round file to clean the areas of
the carrier where the edges of the pads sit.
POLLEN FILTER
40 RENEW POLLEN FILTER
The pollen filter is accessed via the driver’s
footwell. Look for an oblong plastic access
panel, then undo a 5.5mm bolt before
unclipping and removing it. Extract the old
pollen filter and fit the new one, making sure
any airflow arrows on the edge point towards
the heater. Refit the access panel.
X CHECK WHEELNUTS Tighten to 85Nm for steel wheels and 98Nm for alloys.
X WIGGLE THE WHEELS Check the wheel bearings, suspension and steering by wiggling each raised road wheel.
EVERY 6000 MILES or 6 MONTHS
X Change oil and filter
EVERY 12,000 MILES or 12 MONTHS
X Change pollen filter
X Check coolant level and test concentration
X Check brake fluid level and test water
content
X Check tyre condition, pressure and tread
X Top-up screenwash fluid
X Check battery
X Check wiper blades and washer jets
X Check all underbonnet components and
hoses for fluid leaks
PRINT & ONLINE MANUALS
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DIY Servicing 2012 Fiat Panda 1.2 petrol
38 FIT NEW DISC
Spray brake cleaner over the new brake disc
to remove any anti-corrosion oil. Fit the
brake disc and secure it with the road wheel
locating studs removed in step 36. Tighten
them to 10Nm.
RESET SERVICE LIGHT
41 FIND OBD-II SOCKET
The onboard diagnostic port is located on the
driver’s side of the lower dashboard. Undo
two crosshead trim screws to remove a panel
and expose the socket for the diagnostic port.
Plug in the relevant reset tool or laptop. This
is also useful for retrieving fault codes.
Don’t forget to also
SERVICE SCHEDULE
(According to the Haynes workshop manual)
X Check brakes and handbrake
X Inspect auxiliary drivebelt(s)
X Check steering and suspension components
X Inspect driveshaft gaiters
X Check wheel alignment
X Inspect exhaust system and mountings
X Check operation of all electrical systems
X Lubricate all hinges and locks
EVERY 24,000 MILES or 24 MONTHS
X Change spark plugs
X Check HT leads
X Renew brake fluid
39 FIT NEW PADS
Refit the caliper and its carrier, tightening the
two 17mm bolts 60/100Nm (M10/M12 bolts).
Fit the new pads with a smear of copper grease
applied to the edges where they make contact
with the carrier. Reassemble the brakes.
42 RETRIEVE AND RESET
Turin Motors charges £48 to reset the
service light. However, not all Pandas have
a reset service function, as was the case
with this vehicle, but it’s useful to check
for any stored faults to see if any problems
need investigating.
X Renew engine coolant
EVERY 36,000 MILES or 36 MONTHS
X Change air filter
X Check the timing belt
X Check manual gearbox oil level
X Check rear brake shoes
EVERY 48,000 MILES or 48 MONTHS
X Renew the timing belt
X Renew the key fob’s battery
EVERY 72,000 MILES
X Renew auxiliary drivebelt
June 2020 pCar Mechanics 65
 Help!
GENERAL
Electric cars
I’ve just read your article in the
February 2020 edition of Car
Mechanics about electric cars,
which I found interesting and answered
a few questions. I know the heater in fully
electric cars is obviously electric, so does
it give off instant heat, because there’s no
waiting for the engine to warm up?
My other query is, how do the brakes
work. I know they work just the same as on
a petrol or diesel car, but the brake servo
on these cars gets its power from a vacuum
created from the manifold on the engine.
As a fully electric car doesn’t have an
‘engine’ as such, how does this work – also
can you still bleed them in the conventional
way? Thanks very much in advance.
Ken Chadwick
Yes, the heater will operate
almost immediately, and most
electric vehicles also have an
option to pre-heat the vehicle while it is
plugged-in, saving the valuable battery
voltage in use. There are two main types
of heater used and they are the ceramic
resistive heater and the heat pump,
which heats the cooling system for a
quicker warm-up.
The brake systems are slightly
more complicated as they incorporate
regenerative braking, which uses power
from the motion of the vehicle to recharge
the traction battery. This can remove a
lot of kinetic energy and so does save
a great deal of wear on the brake linings.
FORD B-MAX
Mystery wiring
While attempting to wire in
a dashcam to my Ford B-MAX,
I came across a piggyback fuse in
the passenger compartment fusebox (type
2). It was in fuse line 17, which according to
the handbook is unused. Following the cable,
it went all the way down the passenger
side, across the rear of the vehicle and was
scotch-blocked into the wiring of the offside
rear light unit. The wires appeared to be
brown/white and green/brown. Not having
a wiring diagram, I could not tell without
66 Car Mechanics pJune 2020
Your non-diagnostic
vehicle-related problems
solved by Steve Rothwell
To allow this to operate fully the
braking systems have a standard
hydraulic brake system coupled with the
electrical regenerative one. The vacuum
used to assist the brake will come from
an electric vacuum pump. Lifting the
bonnet of a Nissan LEAF you will see the
conventional hydraulic master cylinder
connected to a servo unit.
GENERAL
EU exemption
With our departure from the EU
do you know what effect this will
have on the Block Exemption
for servicing cars – ie. not tied to the
manufacturer dealership? As currently
you can get an independent using OEM
manufacturer parts to service and not to
invalidate manufacturer’s warranty?
Martin Smith
The present block exemption
rules have been in place since
2010 and the last change before
that was 2002. The original arrangement
allowing car manufacturers to create
exclusive dealerships was based partly
on the fact that vehicles should be
regularly maintained by properly-trained
staff, using the correct equipment.
In October 2002 the EC regulation
1400/2002 came into force that allowed
the manufacturers to create such
dealerships provided they do not restrict
the competition. To do this they had to
allow independent garages access to
technical information and spare parts.
It also ensured that all service and
more dismantling which part of the light
unit these wires were for. Unfortunately,
I could not test if it was live at that end.
Have you any idea what it could be
for? Is it to power something and the end
placed in 17 out of the way?
M Hopkins
I can confirm that number 17
fuse on your B-MAX does not
have a circuit allocated to it.
However, the fuse holder may still have
power to it and this may be the reason it
has been jumped into.
Being scotch-blocked into the loom
at the rear of the vehicle, this certainly
doesn’t sound like a professional
modification, but it is difficult to know
its purpose without testing the wiring.
It is possible that this extra wiring was
repair work could be undertaken by any
garage whether an independent or an
authorised dealership.
In May 2010 it was announced that
a new block exemption would apply from
June 2010 – these proposals are set to
stay in place until May 2023.
Many owners prefer to have the
servicing carried out by a small
independent as they believe that the
smaller garage does give a better
service, and the labour rate is normally
more competitive. The downside is that
some vehicles do develop major faults
after the warranty period and in such
cases where the vehicle has been main
dealer serviced the manufacturer has
been known to offer a goodwill repair.
The resale of the vehicle must also
be considered, as if selling the vehicle
just outside the warranty period, a main
dealer service history will increase the
resale value.
It should be noted that even with the
block exemption, certain manufacturers
are beginning to lockdown the EOBD
information available, with only emissions
data being accessible, Fiat systems are
requiring a certificate to be generated
by logging your details with them.
The direct answer to your question is
that under the EU withdrawal act 2018,
EU law as it is will be converted into UK
law. So, the block exemption in place at
the moment will remain in force as UK
law until the original expiry date of 31-
May 2023.
After that it will depend on the
UK government, but I would imagine
the renewal will closely follow an EU
agreement.
for the addition of a specialist accessory
such as a reversing camera system that
has now been removed.
You do not mention the year of your
B-MAX, but here are the colour codes
for the offside rear lamps. The rear lamp
colours on the offside body are green/
orange for the indicators, violet/brown
for the brake lights, white/orange for the
side-lights and black/blue for the earth.
The offside wiring in the boot also has
brown/green wiring for the fog-light and
black wiring for the reversing light.
These colours do not directly match
the wiring you have described to me. As
this wire is obviously an addition, I would
be inclined to disconnect it, then check
the operation of all the lights. If a faulty
circuit is found, I would recommend
repairing it at the point of the fault.
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 Help!

part attached – or one piece? I have

FORD TRANSIT CONNECT seen a reference to plastic gear wheels
with bits of teeth broken off. Is it worth
Electrical issues opening them up to have a look for this?
Do you have any links showing how the
There are two issues with my central door locking management works
2004 Ford Transit Connect that I electrically on these vehicles, and is there
think are related. First, the battery a diagnostic checklist?
is being drained, and when I disconnect Derek Lodge
the negative connection I can hear a light
thump from the left-hand door lock. I agree that the problem is in
The second is that I cannot open or the area of the right-hand door
close the rear door from the right-hand lock. The lock and solenoid are
door lock. I tried disconnecting the left- an integral unit, with both electrical and
hand door electrics and locked the door mechanical parts combined. The plastic
manually, after which the rear door opened teeth in the operating mechanism can
and closed normally. When I lock the right- break off and cause a problem similar to
hand door, the lock goes on and off at least the one you are describing, but unless
six times, then stays open; if I then lock it you have a spare unit, any parts needed This is a common area for failure, and
one more time, it will lock as normal. for the repair will not be available. a short circuit or break can give the
I suspect I need a new right-hand door Before condemning the lock unit, symptoms you’re experiencing.
lock. Are these locks in two parts – ie, the I would check the condition of the There is no specific checklist for the
mechanical component with the electrical wiring between the door and the vehicle. central locking – a Ford dealer would use
the Ford Integrated Diagnostic System
to determine the area of the problem.
FORD FIESTA
FORD FIESTA
Steering wheel switch Self-service
The volume and channel switch on the steering wheel of my 2012 Ford
Fiesta 1.25 Zetec petrol manual only works intermittently. After spraying My 2013 Ford Fiesta Studio 1.25
it with electrical cleaner it worked for a few times, then stopped. I have 60PS has 37,000 miles and is
noticed that it works when you press it a bit harder, then stops again. How easy is it due for its two-year renewal of
to remove and replace the switch? the brake fluid as recommended in the
Scott Barr Haynes manual. Given that the brake and
clutch hydraulics use the same reservoir,
There are two reasons why the steering is it necessary to bleed both of them when
wheel controls can fail. The first is that renewing the brake fluid? This is assuming
the squib/clock-spring connection that the fluid level doesn’t drop below the
between the steering wheel and steering column minimum level and that the proportion of
has fractured or become highly resistant. brake fluid in the clutch pipework is only
The second is that the switches have failed. a small proportion of the total length of
In your case, as the switch will operate if extra the pipework and reservoir, etc.
pressure is applied, this would confirm that the John Osley
fault is with the switch and not the connection.
Unfortunately, the switch is not available to buy I wouldn’t bleed the clutch
The steering wheel switch system as this fluid will remain
separately, so the solution may be to replace
for the audio controls.
the steering wheel with a secondhand unit. in the clutch pipe and is not
There are many steering wheels for sale on eBay for about £30. As the steering introduced into the brake circuit. As
wheel is not finely splined but has a Hex fitting, it is not difficult to ensure the you say, if the reservoir does not drop
replacement steering wheel goes in the correct position. below the minimum then the fluid in
The hardest part of the job is removing the airbag to access the retainer. the clutch system will not be disturbed.
Before starting, the battery should be disconnected. The airbag is removed by The clutch system does use the brake
releasing the spring retainer by pushing a 3mm screwdriver through the access master cylinder reservoir to feed the
holes to the rear of the steering wheel, behind the area of the spoke. It should clutch circuit, but it does not suffer
be noted that the fabric of the steering wheel may need to be breached to allow from the arduous conditions of the
the screwdriver to enter the access holes. You should be able to easily determine braking system.
where the holes are through touch. In separate circuit systems you will
Once the screwdriver is pushed into the hole, you will feel the sprung clip find that the clutch fluid specification
inside the steering wheel which holds the airbag. When the clip is released, the is normally much lower than the brake
airbag should pop forward. Once the retaining clips are undone, the airbag can fluid, due to the easier life the clutch
be lifted off to access the electrical connection. fluid enjoys. Given that the concentric
Before removing the steering wheel, the vehicle’s wheels should be in the slave cylinders used in the clutch
straight-ahead position and the steering lock engaged. When replacing the operation can be both difficult to bleed
steering wheel, the retaining bolt should be torqued to 48Nm. Once the airbag and can overthrow if the clutch is worn,
connection is plugged back in, the airbag should push back into place, clipping I wouldn’t attempt to bleed that section
into the sprung clips. of the system out until a replacement
clutch is required.

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Help!
FORD FIESTA
Light removal
My son is looking to change the dip
headlight bulbs on his 2018 Ford
Fiesta MkVIII to a brighter light. We
can get the old bulbs out with a struggle,
but the new bulbs (Enhanced Edition H7
LED 12V 12000-lumen) are a bit longer and
we can’t get them into the light assembly.
We have removed the screws forward and
aft of the light and – according to a YouTube
video about the Fiesta MkVII – it looks like
you give the light cluster a good pull in the
up direction to dislodge the light assembly
from a plastic bracket on the underside.
However, having tried this, it did not
move. We removed the fog-light and
surround and could see two clips that seem
to sit under the plastic bumper lip. If this is
the case, what is involved in removing the
front bumper and would this be the correct
procedure to remove the light cluster?
John Hundred
The replacement of the
headlamp bulbs is done with
the headlamp removed and,
LAND ROVER FREELANDER
Remote
fuel pump
I recently experienced the failure of
the remote fuel pump on my 2006
Freelander 1 Td4. I had this replaced
by my local garage who put in a pump from
a well-known Land Rover parts supplier –
not cheap at £80. Unfortunately this made
a horrendous noise, although it seemed to
work OK. I was away on holiday the next
day, so had to drive it as such. Although
my garage agreed to change it, the noise
was so annoying I purchased another OEM
quality pump (again not cheap at another
£80) from another trusted supplier and
had it fitted while I was away.
This pump was exactly the same! I did
some research on Land Rover forums and
found that this was a recurring subject
and the only solution was to fit a Pierburg.
On my return, the garage replaced the
pump with a Pierburg, and they were
amazed at how quiet it was.
All this is to point out that Land
Rover charge like a wounded bull and
people like myself have to go to trusted
suppliers who normally issue excellent
quality (sometimes actual OEM) parts
68 Car Mechanics pJune 2020
FORD FIESTA
Suspension arm replacement
What are the torque settings for the
The Ford Fiesta lower arm.
replacement of front lower suspension
arms on a 2013 Ford Fiesta 1.2 petrol?
Should I use thread-lock on any of the bolts/
nuts when fitting the new part?
Bartosz
The lower arm bolts should be
tightened when the arm is in the
loaded position. The rear upward bolt
should be torqued to 65Nm plus 180°, while
the front (front to rear facing) bolt should be torqued to 103Nm plus 180°. The swivel
nut and bolt should be replaced and tightened to 52Nm. No thread-lock is needed.
from your description, I believe you back of the lamp towards the inner edge
are nearly there. The bumper does not and is aligned with the headlamp main
need to be removed, but there is a clip beam bulb. Once this clip is undone,
at the base of the headlamp that needs along with the fixings you have already
to be undone before the lamp will pull removed, the headlamp should come out
up and away from the vehicle. The clip of position by lifting it at the front and
opens out and secures the fixing at rear to disengage the lower fixings, then
the base, which is the reason the lamp rotating the lamp out towards the centre
will not pull up at the moment. The clip of the vehicle. Once in this position, the
should be visible by looking down the headlamp should lift straight up.
LAND ROVER FREELANDER
Brake pad orientation
I am about to fit new brake pads to my
Freelander 1 Td4. The new Britpart pads
are only chamfered on one edge, but
should I position this at the top of the caliper
(the start of the braking cycle) or the bottom?
Steve Haywood
With the brake caliper at the front of the
wheel, the chamfer needs to go at the
top of the caliper, so the chamfer is on the
leading edge. This helps to prevent brake squeal by
giving a softer first touch on the brake disc when the The Britpart brake pads as used
pad pushes out and makes contact. The chamfer also by the reader showing the one
helps to bed new brake pads into a worn disc. chamfered edge.
at a fraction of the cost. In this case, two A quality pump can do this without fuss
of them were mistaken in the suitable or noise, but as you have discovered, a
application for the pumps. Luckily, I have cheaply made pump that had not been
been able to get refunds for them, but made to such a fine tolerances may
whether they amend the application spec create noise from its bearings, and may
remains to be seen. also allow the impeller to induct air into
My question is, why did the pumps the system. This will amplify the noise.
make such a noise when they are only the As an example of how noisy a small
primary lift to the high-pressure pump? pump can be, just consider windscreen
John Martin washer pumps: they’re not made to
a particularly high standard as they’re
Even though the pump is only only required to deliver screenwash
a primary lift pump, it still needs under a low pressure, and aren’t critical
to deliver the fuel under pressure element to the running of the vehicle.
to the main high-pressure diesel pump. Many are quite noisy.
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 Help!

every ripple, ridge and bump in the road.

VAUXHALL OMEGA
Rough ride
I have a 1999 Vauxhall Omega 2.0
estate with 107,000 miles that has
VAUXHALL CORSA been regularly serviced by a local
mechanic who runs his own workshop. He
The tyre pressures are correct and possibly
slightly lower in an attempt to soften the
ride. The shock fitted to the front are AL-KO
and the back are Kan Excel-C. Is it possible
to fit any softer shocks or shocks that can
be adjusted to be softer?
J Whayman

Spare wheel
My 2017 Vauxhall Corsa 1.4 saloon
is fitted with 195/55 R16 H tyres.
It has no spare wheel, although it
does have room for a space-saver. I located
one on eBay, but then read the letter from
Stuart King in the September 2019 issue
(‘Lack of spare wheel’, Help!) and decided
to try and get one from a main dealer.
Frank Bailey
Since receiving Stuart King’s,
email, I have heard of a company
that specialises in spare wheels:
https://bit.ly/2w8Fofe. They can supply
either a full-size or space-saver wheel for
your vehicle at a cost of £99.99 or £99.95
respectively. They also offer a space-saver
and toolkit option for £114.95 I have not
tried this company myself, so this is only
a suggestion, not a recommendation.
Frank Bailey replied:
Have received the full-size spare wheel
for my Vauxhall Corsa and it fits the space
satisfactorily. That is a good company
to deal with and I can wholeheartedly
recommend them. The tools, wheelbrace
and scissor jack they supplied were of
good quality.
Frank Bailey
VAUXHALL CORSA
is good and knows his stuff, but a year ago
he fitted two new front shock absorbers to
the vehicle at my request. To me there was
According to the data I have, your
vehicle may be fitted with 15in,
16in or 17in wheels. If you are
a slight improvement to the hardness of running on 17in wheels with a 225/45
the shock coming through the suspension tyre then one option may be to change
going over the general road surface. to a set of 15in wheels on 205/65 tyres.
A couple of months later, again at my Moving away from the lower profile
request, he changed both the rear shock wheels will help soften the ride.
absorbers, as I thought this would improve With the main emphasis on
the ride quality. This was not the case, so suspension being road-holding, the
four months later I asked him to check components do now tend to lean
all the bushes and joints related to the towards a firmer ride. It is unlikely
suspension system. He had to change only you will find a softer shock absorber/
the lower suspension arm front bushes; all strut than you have fitted, but it may
the rest were deemed OK. He also freed off be worth checking the springs. If these
the front and rear track control adjusters have not been changed, they may have
so the tracking could be done. This was deteriorated, which can lower the ride
checked and adjusted the next day. and give a harsher feel. Given the actions
Now the ride of the vehicle feels like you have already taken, replacing the
driving on wooden blocks: you can feel springs may be the next best step.
VAUXHALL MERIVA
Automatic trouble
I run a Vauxhall Meriva B 1.4 turbo automatic. I’m quite happy with this
car although fuel economy is not that good. A recent rescue mission to
Heathrow Airport returned just under 40mpg! While on the motorway doing
60mph I floored the accelerator to pass some traffic and the gearbox seemed to
change right down to first gear (it has six) and the engine revved its nuts off with
seemingly little acceleration!
Can I stop this from happening again apart from lifting off or using manual
selection? Does this gearbox have an ECO mode? It is an Aisin Warner TF80SC AF40.
John Thompson

Hub nut The transmission unit in your Meriva

tightening
I have to change front wheel bearing
on my 2013 Corsa 1.2. Can you tell
me the hub nut torque setting and
is there a sequence to do hub nuts up and
loosen it like on older Vauxhall’s?
Mark Deane
The tighten torque sequence for
the front hubs is to tighten them
to 70Nm – then to tighten them
a further 60° – and finally a further 5°.
I find that once you have tightened
them up to the 70Nm setting, a dab
of paint at the top of the nut will help
ensure that you have a good idea of
where the 65° final position should be.
It is also noted that new nuts should
be used, and you will normally find these
supplied with the hub nut kit.
is a very complex unit and in some
ways can be compared to the VAG
DSG and Ford Powershift type gearboxes,
it shifts gears using the Lepelletier
arrangement. This means that the gear
change is managed by the computer program
within the self-contained control module. The
completion of the gearchange is achieved by
one clutch engaging at the precise moment The Aisin Warner TF80 SC AF40 gearbox.
that another is disengaged.
The problem you encountered is quite rare and the best move would be to
get the gearbox codes read to determine the cause – this could, I suspect, be
the incorrect information from a speed sensor, but may be due to one of many
different possible sources.
The problem could also have been one of the clutches slipping, and if this is the
case then some burning of the fluid may be evident. Another possibility is that
the valve block is sticking and this again should be looked into.
The ECO mode I presume you are referring to is the torque converter type lock-
up on some automatic transmissions – as your gearbox does employ a locking
torque converter in normal driving, then this would not be applicable. One of the
advantages of this type of transmission as with the DSG and Powershift units is that
the direct-drive is expected to give the same fuel economy as the manual gearbox.

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Help!
VAUXHALL ASTRA
Notchy gearbox
I had a secondhand M32 gearbox
fitted to my 2009 Astra 1.9 CDTi.
When I try to change gear, it is
sometimes really hard to get it to engage
and it gets worse the faster I go. I adjusted
the gear mechanism as it recommends in
the manual, but it made no difference.
Wayne Erwin
As you say you have completed
the gear mechanism procedure,
I am assuming this means
you have adjusted the gear selector
mechanism by releasing the cable
locks and locking the selector with the
appropriate pin at the gearbox selector.
There was a technical service bulletin
put out by Vauxhall regarding difficult
gearchanges on the M32 gearbox, but
this only referred to problems changing
between third and fourth gears.
The Field Remedy 2021 advises that
the synchromesh ring on the third
and fourth can become defective. This
problem should have been resolved on
the M32 gearbox from 2006 onwards,
but unless you know the age of the
secondhand gearbox that was fitted, it
is possible it is older than this. If your
gear selection problem is on all gears
CITROËN C3
Gurgling noise
I purchased my Citroën C3 VTR+
PureTech 999cc new in April
2015. From day one, I have been
concerned by a rattling or gurgling noise
when there is pressure on the accelerator
in gears three, four and five. It stops when
taking pressure off. One main dealer
admitted they had no idea what it was, but
thought it could be a timing chain noise
and no action was proposed. Another
dealer said it was probably an induction
noise and no action was proposed.
KA Heath
You will appreciate that without
hearing the noise it is difficult to
accurately diagnose its cause.
The PureTech engine fitted to your
Citroën is quite complex and the
technology used includes continually
variable hydraulic valve timing on both
inlet and exhaust camshafts. The first
70 Car Mechanics pJune 2020
and not just third and fourth then this
problem can be discounted.
In this case, there are two possibilities:
either the clutch centre plate is catching
on the gearbox input shaft splines or the
incorrect oil has been used. It’s possible
the gearbox input shaft splines on
the secondhand gearbox were slightly
corroded, preventing the centre plate
from sliding smoothly on the shaft.
If the gearbox has been filled with the
incorrect oil, the Vauxhall part number
for the oil is 93165290, which is
a synthetic manual 75w-85 transmission
fluid and is not mixable with other oils.
VAUXHALL VECTRA
Coolant
temperature
I have a 2005 Vectra SRi 2.2 16v
petrol and have noticed that, no
matter where I drive, when I stop
and check the water expansion tank it is
cold and doesn’t have much pressure.
I checked the hoses and the one the
thermostat fits in gets hot, but the hose
coming out is cold. I have changed the
thermostat and expansion tank cap, and I
also checked for oil and water mixing, but it
is clean. Could it possibly be a problem with
dealer’s information is at odds with
the information I have, which suggests
that the engine uses a timing belt that
is wet and housed in a casing, which is
designed to last the life of the vehicle.
The 3-cylinder PureTech engine does
have a slightly different sound under
load to that of the four-cylinder engines,
so I would ask the dealer to road-test
a similar vehicle to enable you to point
out the difference in the sound. As you
have mentioned the noise has been
there since the offset – this may confirm
it is a quirk of the engine and not a fault.
CITROËN C5
Air-conditioning
condensation
A friend has a 2006 Citroën C5 1.6
HDi estate that has a problem with
its air-conditioning system. He
recently had it regassed and afterwards
the system worked well, but the water
produced by the condenser ran into both
footwells and was not discharged under the
vehicle as normal. We have looked in vain
for outlets under the car, but cannot locate
any. Have you any idea where they are and
the water pump or radiator? Some forums
say it is normal, while others say there is
a problem. The car drives well otherwise.
Paul John Craig
The cooling system doesn’t need
to operate under pressure to
be efficient and if the coolant
temperature on the gauge is reading
around the centre point at 90°C, and if
the engine is running without problems,
I would not be concerned.
The only factor that would normally
allow the engine to run cooler than
intended is the thermostat. If this is stuck
open, then the coolant will flow too early
and prevent the engine from warming
up to its ideal operating temperature.
As you have replaced the thermostat
and confirmed that the system is hot on
one side of the thermostat and cool on
the other, the thermostat appears to be
operating correctly.
Cooling system or head gasket
problems will normally result in the
engine running too hot, and as yours is
not then I would be perfectly happy to
say that all is in order. The cooling system
will only pressurise as the temperature
rises and is then kept under pressure
to prevent the liquid boiling when it
reaches 100°C. If the engine is happily
running at 90°C then there is no need
for the system to be under pressure.
how to clear them with compressed air or
by ‘rodding’ them through?
Bill Tingle
Looking at the Citroën literature,
the location of the drain is
somewhat confusing. According
to the diagram, the rubber drain hose
is located near the base of the heater
unit on the driver’s side; this is a single
rubber hose that then goes down
through a grommet to the underside of
the vehicle. However, the text describes
disconnecting the tube from the
passenger side, perhaps because it is
referring to a left-hand drive vehicle.
The exact position of the tube is not
clearly illustrated, but by ensuring that the
base of the heater unit is dry, then running
the vehicle with the air-conditioning
activated, it should be possible to
trace the small drips from the unit. The
problem is likely to be that the rubber
hose has either been squashed and is
not allowing the fluid to pass through or
that residue has built up on the inside.
It should be possible to clear this using
a length of flexible wire or cable.
Another way to trace the outlet is to
look from under the vehicle – the small
rubber outlet should be visible in the
vicinity of the area below the footwell.
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 Help!

CITROËN XSARA PICASSO

Idle worry
Although not serious, I have an annoying problem with my 2009 Citroën
Xsara Picasso 1.6 petrol with the TU5 JP4, NFU engine and 70,000 miles. PEUGEOT 806
The car runs well and the emissions were fine at its last MOT. The issue is
the idle, especially when hot, when it will hunt or surge for a few seconds around
every 30 seconds, with the revs increasing from 200 to 400rpm. The effect of this Hot-starting
can also be felt on the overrun when going downhill. It is not a misfire. There are
no fault codes recorded according to my basic diagnostic reader and the engine
management light isn’t on.
problem
Our 1998 Peugeot 806 1.9TD has
I have changed the plugs, cleaned the throttle body and MAP sensor, and
become increasingly difficult to
swapped the sensor for a known good one. I’ve also checked and cleaned the
start when hot after a 65-mile
electrical connections and vacuum pipes. I replaced the throttle body to inlet
motorway run. It will turn over for maybe 20
manifold gasket and have disconnected the battery overnight hoping for an ECU
seconds before starting. Despite having a
refresh, but no joy. Any ideas?
tired battery, it starts first time on even the
Chris Howland
coldest day, but after driving the 65 miles
to work, if you stop the car and try to restart
As you have confirmed that the
it will turn over and over before starting.
vehicle does not misfire, that you
In all other respects, the car runs fine
have no fault codes present and
considering its age and 140,000 mileage.
have checked all the hoses, this leads me
It has no excessive smoke and pulls OK for
back to the throttle body.
a heavy car with a smallish engine.
Unlike the 8v version, the idle control
The clues I have are that the fuel
valve on your throttle body is not a
consumption has increased from 40mpg
separate component. Even though you have
to 37mpg and the car’s temperature
cleaned the throttle body, I believe this is
seems to run cool just under 80°C even
the most likely source of your problem.
at the end of a 65-mile motorway run.
However, before replacing the throttle body,
It only hits 90°C on a hill climb – 90°C is
it would be worth double-checking that the The throttle body fitted to the 1.6 Picasso. at the top of the temp gauge and where I’d
MAP sensor seal is good and the vacuum
expect the needle to sit.
hoses are not collapsing internally. One other check you could make would be to
The car has new fuel, air and oil filters
tap the front of the engine block at the side of the knock sensor while the engine
annually. Last year, the glow plugs were
is running, just to ensure this is operating correctly; when tapped, you should
changed, the fuel tank was dropped and
hear a slight change in engine note as the timing is adjusted by the ECU.
cleaned, and a new temperature sensor
was fitted.
While your MOT inspector has informed I have read online that it could possibly be
CITROËN BERLINGO you that one of the injectors is leaking, the crankshaft sensor. What is your opinion?
you do not mention in what way. So, I am Roger K
Leaking injector assuming it is an internal leak into the
cylinder, as an external leak of diesel or a As you have already changed
My MOT inspector has advised me blow-past of cylinder pressure would both the CTS, which is the most likely
that my 2001 1.9D Berlingo van be easily diagnosed. I am also assuming culprit, the next test I would try
with 86,000 miles is unlikely to that this internal leak is resulting in a is to attempt a hot start with the CTS
pass next year because one of the injectors misfire or lack of power. If this is the case, disconnected. If this makes a difference
is leaking. The injectors are the screw in the injectors can be tested as follows, and the engine starts quickly with the
type Delphi indirect Pintle CR6736001. but I must stress that this method MUST sensor disconnected then the problem
I don’t really want to scrap the vehicle NOT be used on common-rail engines may be the ECU mapping.
as I’ve changed a lot of stuff and it runs so because the injection pressures are The other possibilities is that the
well, even with the dodgy injector. I have much higher. With the engine running CTS fitted is faulty or that the engine
also tried using fuel additives, to no avail. at tickover, slacken off the injector is running cooler than it should.
Is there a test to identify the bad pipes (17mm spanner) and re-tighten In this case, it would be worth checking
injector? And what are my chances of them one at a time. As the injector pipe the thermostat to ensure that it is not
successfully unscrewing it from the head is slackened, you should notice a drop opening too early or is stuck partially
without damaging the threads? Is there in engine speed, although the cylinder open. If possible, check the actual
a special procedure for this job, such as with the faulty injector will show little running temperature of the engine with
heating up the injector body? difference to the slackening of the pipe. an infrared thermometer, such as this
Jona Green The screw threads on the injectors are unit: https://bit.ly/CM4vdtZ. If the
not overly long and normally unscrew engine is running cool, this may also
Your Berlingo should be fitted with ease – a long bar and a deep 27mm explains the higher fuel consumption.
with the DW8 engine. Unlike socket should be all that is required. The crankshaft sensor may be faulty,
the later engines with common- If you can find a local diesel specialist it as you suspect, and could be suffering
rail diesel injectors, the earlier diesel should not cost too much to recondition when hot. If removing the CTS plug
engines are normally less troublesome the injectors as, unlike the common-rail when hot makes no difference, it may be
and also much easier to sort out. units, they are relatively simple. worth replacing the crank sensor.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 71

Help!

marks is always advisable. The timing

PEUGEOT 206 CC
Steering fluid
My wife’s 2002 Peugeot 206 CC
needs the power steering fluid
topping-up. Haynes recommends
using Total LDS, but is there an alternative
as local stores do not stock it. The fluid in
the system is a reddish brown.
Colin Archibald
Thank you for providing the VIN
number – this makes getting the
correct information far easier.
The fluid recommended by Peugeot for
the mechanical power steering on your
car is Total AT42, which is a standard
ATF Dextron III fluid and should be
readily available; as you describe
your system as having the reddish
brown fluid, this will be the AT42/ATF
Dextron III fluid. The alternative listed
for extreme cold weather is PENTOSIN
CHF11S – this cannot be mixed with the
AT42 and is a thinner, dark green liquid.
PEUGEOT CAMPER
Timing marks
We have a 1992 Peugeot Talbot
Kon-tiki Swift 640 camper with
the 2.5 turbodiesel engine (type
U25/673, engine no 1GJ14035745). We
have just removed the engine and gearbox
to do the clutch and timing belt. The
problem is that we have the covers off the
belts and are looking at the two of them
(one on the injector pump and the other
behind it), but we can’t see any timing
marks. I know people will tell me to just
mark everything up with Tipp-Ex and be
really careful when removing the old belts
and putting on the new ones, but I would
feel a lot happier if I could line everything
up with the timing marks first, then use
the Tipp-Ex and change the belts.
Martin Butler
I support your method –
marking the pulleys is fine, but
first lining up the correct timing
marks are located on the flywheel and
on the cam pulley.
You should first ensure the engine is
roughly at TDC on number one cylinder.
This can be done by removing the oil
filler cap and viewing the valves. You
should be able to see sufficiently to
work out when the valves are rocking. If
you now look at the camshaft pulley, you
should see a groove at the seven o’clock
position. You should also see a mark on
the flywheel that aligns with a mark on
the gearbox bellhousing. There is also
a mark on the crankshaft pulley and this
should also be around the seven o’clock
position. The new belt should also be
marked and these should align with the
grooves on the crank and cam pulleys.
The distance between the two marks on
the new belt should be 35 ribs.
Note that there are no marks on the
injection pump pulley. In this case,
I would mark it yourself.
PEUGEOT 106

PEUGEOT 207
Failed gear
Clutch problems selection
My 1997 Peugeot 106 has covered
A week after my daughter’s 2007 Peugeot 207 1.4 HDi had a new LuK only 31,000 miles. Sometimes
RepSet clutch, along with a gearbox oil change (75w80), it is slipping on I can’t get it in gear. If I switch off
hills and the pedal is almost at the top. The garage is denying responsibility the engine, I can get the gears. It doesn’t
as I supplied the clutch kit – from Euro Car Parts, so a reputable company. happen all the time, just now and again.
What is happening is that, halfway up a hill, the rev counter starts going up and GC Osley
down erratically. Changing gear doesn’t help, but it’s fine when it’s back on the flat.
The old clutch didn’t look too badly worn. Could the problem possibly be something As gear selection is easy after
as simple as the slave cylinder? The old plate had no oil on it, as I originally thought you switch off the engine, this
the problem was the flywheel oil seal. suggests the problem lies within
Stephen Haywood the clutch. It is very likely that the clutch
is not disengaging fully, allowing the
Looking at your pictures, gearbox to continue turning while you
the clutch assembly are attempting to change gear. Even
doesn’t look overly worn though your mileage is not particularly
and I wouldn’t expect a clutch high, it is likely that the majority of
in that condition to be slipping. your motoring has been short journeys
The one point I did note was that around town.
there was wear on the fingers of You do not mention which engine you
the clutch cover where the release have in your 106, but it’s likely that your
bearing pushes onto them. This clutch operation is controlled by an
may suggest there is pressure adjustable cable. Providing the clutch
being applied to the clutch cover, doesn’t need adjusting, it’s possible that
possibly caused by a faulty slave the clutch release bearing has dried out
cylinder or master cylinder. Stephen Haywood’s clutch pictures. and is beginning to wear into the clutch
As the slave cylinder is external, cover. This is quite common on the 106,
this can easily be checked to ensure it is not putting too much pressure against and when it occurs, the bearing heats
the release lever when it is at rest. To ensure that the problem is not a faulty up and begins to stick on the guide
master cylinder, you should pump the clutch two or three times. After a few tube, compounding the problem. I would
seconds, the release lever should be fully back to its rest position. If by opening listen for any noises when operating the
the bleed screw the release arm then moves back farther, this indicates that clutch which may confirm this diagnosis.
there’s a fault with the master cylinder or in the pipeline. If my diagnosis is correct, a new clutch
If the new clutch is faulty, I would expect the supplier to supply a replacement assembly will be required.
unit under the conditions of the warranty, although with clutches it is often It would also be prudent to check the
difficult to prove that the problem was not caused by misuse. gearbox oil level to ensure this is not the
cause of the problem.

72 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Help!

RENAULT CLIO

Exhaust mount
What is your opinion of the Powerflex exhaust mount (EXH020) for a 1993
Renault Clio? The only thing I’m concerned about is the lack of fore and aft
RENAULT CLIO
movement these will allow when going on and off the throttle, as the OE

Low temperature ones allow approximately half-an-inch. I know there’s a spring-loaded flexi-joint at
the end of the downpipe, but those springs are pretty strong and I’m not too sure
just how much stress they relieve from the system, particularly the downpipe. I don’t
I have a 2007 Renault Clio Series 3
need a broken one of those as they cost £650 for a Clio 182! The OE ones collapse
1.5 dCi 68 diesel. Since the car was
under the weight of the exhaust and the little tentacles
new, the dash temperature gauge
of rubber snap after about six months and I’m sick of
has only shown two bars when the engine
spending £50 a year on daft exhaust mounts!
is fully warmed up (the handbook says
Anthony Pattinson
that normal temperature should show
four bars on the gauge). The only way I can
I have not personally used these exhaust
get the gauge to show the correct normal
rubber replacements, but given the results
temperature of four bars is by running
I have had with other Powerflex products, I'm
hard, above 60mph, for a few miles on
sure they will be a perfect replacement.
the motorway. When I do manage to get
Although the original bushes have a considerable
four bars, if I switch off the engine and
amount of movement, the complete exhaust system
immediately start the engine again, the
should not be moving backwards and forwards during
gauge is back to two bars, even though the
accelerating and decelerating, and the movement of
engine has had no time to cool down.
the engine twisting due to torsional forces should be
The Renault Dealer told me Diesel Clios
taken up by the flexi-joint at the end of the downpipe. The Powerflex exhaust mount
are all like that and that they take a long replacement rubber.
If you are suffering excess engine movement, it may
time to show four bars. I was not convinced,
also be worth considering fitting the Powerflex engine stabiliser kit.
so I removed and checked the thermostat.
This was fully-closed when cold and
opened at the correct temperature of 83°. operating correctly, it may be worth damaged because of the fault. However,
I also bled the cooling system at the heater getting the vehicle connected to a my son does not want us to replace
hoses and thermostat housing – the scanner and reading off the live data. things unnecessarily. It passes the MOT,
heater gives a good output, so I am certain The good cold starting is a testament including the fuel emissions test.
there are no air-locks. I also checked that to the cold start system on the vehicle, It could be something very simple, but
the wiring terminals were clean and secure which would confirm that this is I noticed it is gradually getting worse.
on the Temperature Sender Unit, which is working correctly. The car now has 80,000 miles on it and
fitted into the thermostat housing. I was wondering how this strange fault
I am concerned that the low could be still there after all this time and
temperature reading from the Temperature
RENAULT CLIO mileage. Could it be the ignition leads, coil,
a sticking injector or a faulty sensor?
Sender Unit may also be used to supply
temperature information to the ECU and
might affect its correct operation.
Long-term David Lowe

The engine starts promptly when cold

– about two revolutions of the engine
– and even quicker when the outside
temperature is below zero. If the engine
is started when the engine is warm, it
takes a bit longer to fire-up – about four
revolutions of the engine. Otherwise, the
engine runs well with good performance
and good fuel consumption.
I would be grateful if you could tell me
if this temperature gauge behaviour is
considered normal with Clio Diesels and,
if not, what would be the likely cause(s)?
I would also be interested to hear your
comments on why my engine starts quicker
when it is cold than it does when it is warm.
Jim McLaughlin
The diesel engine will run
colder when not under load and
I would have no worries about
the temperature reading you are seeing
on your vehicle. If you want to ensure
the engine temperature sensor is
hesitation
My son’s 2000 Renault Clio 1.2 8v
has a strange fault. I bought it
five years ago with just 28,000
miles and noticed a slight hesitation when
accelerating, but thought a good service
would rectify it.
Replacing the plugs, oil filter and air
filter made no difference. I used Wynn’s
valve treatment in the oil, as I thought
it might be a sticking valve, but there
was no change. I also used an injector
cleaner. I decided to give up and see
what developed. After five years, the only
development has been that it has become
more hesitant. Lifting the throttle used to
let it accelerate, with a more gentle use
of the throttle, but now lifting the throttle
does not work. Changing down a gear is
the only thing that helps.
My son has been putting up with it,
but it has been getting, in my opinion,
dangerous and I do not want the engine
If this is the same problem that
has been with the vehicle for the
past 52,000 miles then I would
not think that the ignition leads or coil
would be the problem; I am sure these
would have deteriorated much sooner.
Likewise, I believe that an injector would
also have failed by now if it had been
the cause of the problem. This would
also apply to a sticking or burnt valve,
although it would do no harm to carry
out a compression test to confirm this
is not the case.
From the symptoms you describe,
I would first check the throttle
potentiometer, which is located at the end
of the inlet manifold by the throttle flap.
Using a meter to check the resistance,
it should be smooth and progressive.
Another component to check would
be the MAP sensor. Getting the vehicle
plugged in to the Renault scanner should
show up any faults in the system quicker
than testing each separate component.

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Help!
MITSUBISHI COLT
Continuous
cooling fan
I’ve got a 2007 Mitsubishi Colt
diesel, the 3-cylinder model with
the Merc engine. Since I bought
it, the radiator fan is on whenever the
car is running, regardless of the coolant
temperature – even when it’s cold.
I had been assuming this was down to
a faulty coolant sensor – perhaps the
sensor is not the same as the one that
controls the ECU, because the economy
is superb – but I’ve recently been told
these have a fan control unit. Have you
any suggestions?
Jack Twomey
As you say that the running
and economy are good, the
coolant sensor is unlikely to
be the problem. According to the data
I have, the fan is controlled by a relay
that is situated in the instrument panel
fusebox. The relay should be a four-
pin unit, 4A9 or 4G1, located at the far
left of the fusebox. It should be easily
identified by removing the relay, which
SUBARU OUTBACK
Alarm turn-off
I have a 2003 Subaru Legacy
Outback 2.5 with the factory-fitted
Cat 1 alarm. How do I locate and
turn this off please?
Steve Rampley
The alarm unit can be
permanently disabled without
affecting the remote locking of
the vehicle, by disconnecting the control
unit. This can be found behind the
centre console beside the radio, to the
offside of the unit.
The gear lever surround will need to
be removed to access the screws for the
main trim panel surrounding the radio
and heater controls. Once this is removed
the alarm unit box should be visible;
it’s a small square box with a multi-plug
fixing. Unplugging the multi-plug should
disable the alarm function.
74 Car Mechanics pJune 2020
should stop the cooling fan.
If the relay is not at fault, the problem
may still be the coolant sensor. This can
be checked by using an EOBD diagnostics
device to read off the live data and
ensure that the ECU temperature
reading from the engine is realistic.
MITSUBISHI COLT
Gear selection
My 2009 Mitsubishi Colt CZ2
1.5 Di-D AMT with 40,000 miles
developed an intermittent fault
where the gear selector didn’t always
engage reverse from neutral unless
first gear was engaged beforehand.
It displays zero, as if the brake pedal
hasn’t been pushed first. My dealer
carried out a software update before the
warranty expired, which made the fault
very intermittent but did not eliminate it
altogether. We learned to live with it.
However, the situation got worse,
culminating with another intermittent
fault developing with the auto clutch.
Here, the clutch bite point speed would
vary, resulting in either ‘kangarooing’
or charging off at speed, meaning slow
manoeuvres were impossible. My dealer
replaced the clutch release mechanism,
which, after some further adjustments
and advice from Mitsubishi, appears to
have cured the problem to only 99%.
The gear selection fault never occurs
Before refitting the trim panels, it
would be worth checking to ensure that
the vehicle immobiliser is not affected
by starting up the engine, and also
check the central locking function. Once
these points are confirmed then the trim
can be refitted, and you should have no
further issues with the unwanted alarm.
SUBARU FORESTER
Roaring noise
Under load, my 2005 Subaru
Forester XT sometimes produces
a roaring noise that remains
until it has cooled down. I wondered if
the problem was a leaking pipe from the
intercooler, which is a known issue? The
best way to check this is by monitoring
the boost pressure, but my Autel 704
does not read this data, so a logger with
Bluetooth and a live readout via a notepad
would seem ideal. Blue Driver caught my
eye, but after contacting them it was clear
that only the Forester was supported to
the degree I wanted. Doing a little more
digging, the OBDLINK + Torque Pro app
when starting from cold, as we have to
reverse the car first. It only occurs after
slight use or during a journey, but very
occasionally the clutch bite variation is
also very haphazard and seems to have
no discernible pattern. I suspected there
might be a problem with an electrical
connection, so I checked and dosed every
accessible connection under the bonnet
with penetrating fluid, but to no avail.
Have you any ideas please?
John Cook
The two issues are most likely
connected. The system on your
car employs a sensor on the
gearbox to measure the speed of the
gearbox input shaft. If this is too high
for selection, the gearbox will not shift
into reverse gear, but will display a zero
rating, as you are seeing.
The problem may be a faulty sensor,
but is far more likely to be the clutch
centre plate sticking on the input shaft
and being spun by contact with the
flywheel. Your dealer should be able to
confirm this by reading off the input
shaft speed on their scanner. If this is
the case, the gearbox will need to be
removed and the clutch plate lubricated
where it connects with the splines, to
ensure it slides freely on the input shaft.
On the other hand, the problem
could be electrical, in which case the
connections should be cleaned with an
electrical cleaner. However, the sticking
clutch plate is a far more likely culprit.
would appear to give me the live data on
the boost pressure and mpg display at an
affordable price. What do you think?
Robin Seward
Ensure that the noise you are
hearing is engine-related. The
Forester is known to suffer from
wheel bearing noise and this would tie-in
with the fact that the noise remains until
the vehicle cools down.
If you are sure it is an engine-related
noise, then it might be related to boost
pressure, but I am unsure why this would
be temperature-related, unless the
problem was in the EGR system, which
might alter as the engine warms and
cools. Checking the boost pressure would
help to confirm if the problem is in this
area and, from the details I have regarding
the OBDLINK + Torque Pro App, this
would give you the information you need.
However, I have not personally used this
app so could not be definitive as to its
effectiveness. The one point I would make
is if you are using the app on your mobile
then the phone should be securely held
in place as any movement during driving
would be an infringement of the law.
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TOYOTA PASEO
Alarm problem
I have a 1997 Toyota Paseo fitted
with a Toyota alarm system. The
alarm is fine when you first set out
on a journey, but it comes on as you are
driving along. I have a remote to stop it,
which has two buttons on it, but it does
not seem to work, because the remote
opens the door locks as well. I have
pressed the button to lock the car and the
alarm still sounds after a few seconds, so
I have to unlock the car to stop it. But if I
lock it again by pressing the buttons twice,
it sounds again. The only way I can silence
it is to use the door key. I have fitted new
batteries in the remote, but this made no
difference. Can you help?
C Magrath
Given that the alarm will silence
when the driver’s door is opened
using the key, I suspect the
problem lies with the driver’s door
lock. It is possible that this is sticking
slightly and, when operated remotely, is
not making sufficient contact with the
micro-switch to tell the vehicle system
that the door is unlocked. This could
result in a scenario where the alarm will
sound while driving.
I would check the operation of the
TOYOTA RAV4
Brake backplates
The lower part of the rear exposed disc splashplates have rusted out on my
2004 Toyota RAV4 five-door diesel. I replaced my Golf splashplates for £18
each, but the best price I can find for the RAV is £400 per side. If all else
fails, would cutting away the lower part of the splashplate, thus exposing the inner
disc, compromise the MOT?
Chris Phelps
From the details I have, the part
numbers for the plates should be
4650342021 and 4650442021.
I did find them for sale on eBay for £184
including postage.
The rear backplates are more than just
splash covers, because the inner portion
of the plate supports the handbrake shoes
that operate within the brake disc. While
cutting away the corroded portion of the
backplate will not result in the vehicle
failing its MOT, if the corrosion has spread
further and compromised the operation
of the parking brake, this would result in
a failure. Having said that, the portion that supports the handbrake shoes is a
much heavier metal, so less prone to corrosion.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
door lock when using the remote and,
if possible, lubricate the solenoid and
clean the electrical connections. This
may be sufficient to cure the problem.
As the alarm is designed to operate
when the vehicle is locked, pressing the
lock button on the remote won’t silence
the alarm, but pressing the unlock
button may work.
TOYOTA PRIUS
Jumping out
of gear
The gearshift is popping out of
‘Drive’ in my Prius. If you hang your
hat on the knob it stays down, then
sometimes it stays down by itself.
John McCartney
The gear selector on the Prius
is a joystick that connects to
a set of microswitches in the
base. As the situation is rectified by
hanging your hat on the lever, the
problem is almost certainly a failure of
one of the microswitches. Replacing the
assembly could be expensive, so I would
first try removing and cleaning the unit
by spraying it with an electrical cleaner.
It’s possible that dust within the switch
is causing it to stick. The unit is factory-
sealed, so you may only have limited
success with this approach, but it would
be a good first move.
The rear brake backplate which also
supports the handbrake shoes.
Help!
Have a
problem vehicle?
GET IN TOUCH...
If you have a problem vehicle, Car Mechanics
has the answer in the shape of our technical
editor STEVE ROTHWELL. Contact Steve,
as detailed below, for FREE advice on all
car-related problems. Please help Steve to
help you by giving as much information on
the symptoms as you can – including the
vehicle registration number.
As Help! is a free service, some complex
questions may require more time and
resources than we can reasonably allow –
when this is the case we will let you know.
Steve will reply to all queries as
quickly as possible, but please allow up
to 28 days for a reply. Difficult/complex
questions or those requiring research may
take a little longer – please be patient.
Neither H Bauer Publishing nor Steve
Rothwell can accept any liability for loss,
damage or injury resulting from replies to
readers’ queries.
To access the listed web addresses starting
with http://bit.ly just type these into your
browser address line, rather than the search
engine and they should work as intended.
 WRITE (enclosing a SAE):
HELP! QUERIES
CAR MECHANICS
BAUER MEDIA, MEDIA HOUSE,
LYNCHWOOD
PETERBOROUGH PE2 6EA
 E-MAIL:
carmechanicshelp@yahoo.co.uk
Please include your postal address
Sourcing vehicle manuals
X Most CM readers will know that
Haynes publish the bibles for automotive
mechanics with their authoritative line of
owners workshop manuals. The Haynes
website at Haynes.com should always
be your first port of call when searching
for a manual. And if there isn’t a specific
manual available for your particular model,
it’s worth checking whether your engine
was fitted to any other vehicles, as this will
give you basic servicing and maintenance
advice. It’s also worth emailing Haynes and
asking if they have a manual in the works
for your vehicle. And bear in mind that
Haynes are now producing video tutorials
for various makes and models.
Failing that, you may be able to find
a workshop manual online that you can
download. Although there are a number
of sites offering this service, care must be
taken to find a reliable source. We have
found the website emanualonline.com is
a trusted source of digital manuals.
June 2020 pCar Mechanics 75
 Steve Rothwell answering your ENGINE MANAGEMENT queries
GENERAL MERCEDES E-CLASS

ECU block Stop-start system

diagram
I have often thought that it would
be a good idea to show the internal
workings of an ECU as a block
diagram in your mag. I realise that there
will be many different units, but the main
underlying control system will be common.
This diagram will show the interactions
between sensors and actuators and
engine conditions at various loads etc.
Maybe in a future issue Car Mechanics?
Gareth Owen
Due to the complexity of
the ECU – and the fact it is
a microprocessor containing
a range of chips – each one carrying
out extremely complex calculations
to control the given output after
processing information from the
input sensors – and because the ECU
performs millions of calculations every
second – searching through values in
its stored tables, then calculating the
results of long equations to decide on
the most efficient spark and injector
timing/duration.
The ECU contains around a 32-bit,
40-MHz processor and the internal
workings cannot be shown by a simple
block diagram.
The nearest to this that can be
achieved is the wiring diagram which, in
most cases, is included already in our
Electronic Diagnosis feature.
I have 2015 Mercedes
E220 C207 diesel
coupé that has done
about 61,000 miles. The engine
number is 65191133038361.
In Economy mode the stop-
start system has always
worked very well, but recently
this has changed so that it may
only function after an hour or
more going reasonably fast.
After a recent long run, it seemed back to normal, but now it’s again only cutting-in after
a long time. When it does function, it soon ceases to do so.
I understand that the battery life of a car with stop-start is typically about four years,
and this car is just two months over the four-year mark. Is there any cause other than
battery decline which is likely to be causing this?
If a test shows that a new battery is required, can the change be done easily by keeping
a slave battery on the jump start points to keep all the settings, or does the new battery
need to be coded somehow to the car?
John Foxon
You have highlighted the most likely cause of the stop-start system operation
occurring only after a longer run. This is when the battery has also had the
best charge and will be in its optimum condition.
Your Mercedes is possibly also fitted with an auxiliary battery and, depending on
the version, it is often recommended to replace both at the same time. I would also
add from my own experience that although the batteries are not cheap, the main
dealer is normally very competitive on price and this also ensures you have the exact
specification battery.
The battery may be fitted with a battery monitor attached directly to the
terminal but according to Autodata this does not need any reprogramming. The
only cautionary note is that when the main battery is disconnected an LED test
lamp should be placed between the + and – terminals on the leads to test for any
faults in the onboard systems. If the light illuminates the auxiliary battery should be
disconnected before replacing the main battery.
When fitting the new battery, no special operations are needed.

PEUGEOT 306
Cutting-out
I wonder if you would help me diagnose a problem with
my 1999 Peugeot 306 2.0-litre 16v. The engine will start
and then cut-out straight-away. I also have a 2000 model
as a parts vehicle and wondered whether the fuel pump could be
swapped. The model uses an infra-red key which works fine on the
doors etc. I was told by a friend that on some Peugeot models this
also disables the fuel pump for security.
The fuel filter has not been replaced recently. I knelt down by
the tank as I tried to start the engine, but it is hard to hear the
pump unless you are under the vehicle.
P Lynch
One thing I should point out is that the central locking
system of the vehicle is separate to the immobiliser
system, and even though the vehicle unlocks, this
does not guarantee that the immobiliser is not
operating and preventing the vehicle from starting.
One other point to check would be the Inertia
Fuel Shut-off (IFS) switch which is located on the
nearside inner wing. This can easily be tripped and could be the
source of the problem. This is easily reset by pushing down on
the red cap at the top.
From the details I have, there were changes between 1999 and
2000 but I cannot see if the fuel pump design was altered. My
initial tests after checking the inertia switch would be to test
for a voltage at the fuel pump fuse. This should be No. 35 in the
engine bay fusebox. The circuit diagram I have indicates that
the fuse is the last part of the circuit and is after the relay. This
will enable you to simply establish if the pump has a 12V feed.
If it does, then the pump may be faulty, but if there is no feed
then it may be the relay or immobiliser causing the problem. If
the relay is not feeding the fuel pump, then it is also likely that
no spark will be present, as the relay also feeds the ignition coil.

76 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Diagnostics Doctor

RENAULT TRAFIC

Diagnostic reader
I’m looking for a diagnostic tool to use on a Renault
Trafic van. The companies I have contacted have said Diagnostics Doctor
they would work on diesels from 2004. My van was
Diagnostics Doctor is a FREE helpline
registered in October 2003. I would have thought they would service for CM readers – including
be the same ie. Renault Trafic Mk2. trade readers – who are struggling with
My question is do you know of a diagnostic tool that is diagnostic/engine management related
compatible with my van? It has a F9Q 1.9 engine, Sl27 dCi faults. Steve Rothwell will answer all
100 SWB. Some suppliers have said it may work, but I didn’t your queries. He will need as much
want to waste money on something that will not work. detail as possible:
It will be used on other cars as well, any thoughts as to what MAKE, MODEL, YEAR, ENGINE CODE
I could get, or someone who could help me? and NUMBER PLATE of your vehicle –
and the type of management system
Jenny Brooks
The Foxwell NT520 Pro Full installed. Obviously, Steve will not be
Systems diagnostic tester for able to assess the vehicle up close, so
The best option and as you Renault and Dacia vehicles. his answer will be on the basis solely of
also want to use the unit your description. This is a FREE service
on other vehicles, I would recommend the Foxwell and it may take some time to respond
NT520 Pro Full Systems – Renault/Dacia at £155 from this to certain problems. If you would like
website http://bit.ly/CMg3VSC This unit is designed for Renault and Dacia to receive a personal response via post,
cars from around 1998 to 2015 and will also read and erase engine fault codes please enclose an SAE.
and show live engine data on EOBD compliant cars (nearly all 2001+ petrol cars Write to:
and 2004+ diesel cars, from any car manufacturer). DIAGNOSTICS DOCTOR
CAR MECHANICS
BAUER MEDIA, MEDIA HOUSE
SSANGYONG RODIUS LYNCHWOOD
PETERBOROUGH
Cold reversing PE2 6EA
e-mail:
cmdiagnostics@yahoo.co.uk
problem
I have a 2007 Ssangyong
Rodius. It is a 2.7 diesel with Common abbreviations
manual transmission. Engine ATS Air Temperature Sensor
code is D27DT. It’s known for being AFM Air-Flow Meter – not a MAF type (see below).
ugly, but it’s my baby! It could be, for example, a vane type
When starting from cold, and only in CAS Crank Angle Sensor
reverse, the engine management light will flash in quite a random way. Once you place CPS Crank Position Sensor
the car in a forward gear it will stop. On a very few occasions it has also flashed off/on CTS Coolant Temperature Sensor
going forward. This may be related to the bumpy country road that I live on. This is rare ECT Engine Coolant Temperature
though, and would only be within the first few minutes of driving. ECU Electronic Control Unit
I have checked for fault codes and got P0344 which indicates Cam Position Sensor EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation – meters exhaust
malfunction. As a result, I replaced the sensor, but the issue remains the same. gas back to the intake manifold
My own view is that it may be related to the timing chain and tensioner, but not sure EML Engine Management Light
why that would only apply when in reverse. Could it be a stretched chain that realigns the EMS Engine Management System
timing correctly once the tensioner is primed? EPC Electronic Power Control
Thanks for any help you can provide. FCR Fault Code Reader
Keith Campbell HT High Tension – ignition output to the spark plugs
IAV Idle Air Valve
The P0344 code you have retrieved (‘Camshaft position (CMP) sensor A, bank ISCV Idle Speed Control Valve – usually operated by
1 - circuit intermittent’) indicates that the circuit is likely to be the cause, as a motor controlled by the ECU
opposed to the sensor. When you couple this with the actual conditions that LOS Limited Operating Strategy – if the ECU detects
trigger the code, ie. being in reverse, this would tend to make me believe that the a malfunction, it runs a programme to allow the
car to still go, but at reduced efficiency
position of the engine is playing a major part in the activation of the code.
MAF Mass Air-Flow meter
With this in mind, and as the sensor has already been replaced, I would look into
MAP Manifold Air Pressure
the possibility that the slight change of position in the engine when selecting reverse
MIL Malfunction Indicator Lamp
is straining or moving the engine wiring loom sufficiently to break the contact.
PCV Positive Crankcase Ventilation – takes crankcase
This may be either due to a fracture in the wire, or to the wire pulling on the plug gases and recycles back to the inlet system
and altering the contact. Either way this would also tie-in with the fact that the code TBPS Turbo Boost Pressure Sensor – used by the
has been triggered whilst driving over rough ground. ECU to regulate turbo output
If nothing obvious can be seen when examining the wire initially then you may need TPS Throttle Position Sensor
to remove the outer sheathing of the loom to fully examine the wire or use a continuity VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor
meter to trace any such fault. It may be possible to activate the fault code by simply WOT Wide Open Throttle
shaking the wiring loom whilst the engine is running. This would then confirm the fault.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 77

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 Electronic PEUGEOT
107

Diagnostics
Tracing and fixing faults in electronic engine management systems
SPORT XS
1.0

Peugeot’s diminutive 107, powered by a

triple-cylinder engine, can make a great
deal of sense in terms of low-cost road
tax and fuel consumption. Kim Henson
and Edward Haggar take a look at the
car’s diagnostic prospects.
NOTE: All references in our text and captions to

I
ntroduced in the summer of 2005,
the four-seater Peugeot 107 city car
was developed in conjunction with
near-identical badge-engineered
vehicles from Citroën (C1) and Toyota
(Aygo). The compact newcomer was
offered with three or five doors, and
power unit choices were between a
three-cylinder 1.0-litre petrol engine and
a four-cylinder 1.4-litre HDi diesel.
A raft of cosmetic and engineering
changes in 2009 resulted in mild
restyling, interior upgrades and slightly
lower engine emissions, plus marginally
improved fuel consumption. The 108
arrived in 2014, ousting the 107.
The 107 featured here is owned by the
editor and was registered in November
2007. It’s powered by the 998cc petrol
unit. Our diagnostic guide to this
‘left’ and right’ sides are from the point of view of someone
sitting in the car and looking ahead.
107 and its Bosch Motronic ME7.9.5
management system is Edward Haggar.
Preparation
As far as repairs and servicing goes these
107s have got to be among the easiest
modern cars to work on. Even a clutch Online
discount code:
change can be carried out by a home
mechanic. The engine is fitted with a Mechanics10
timing chain, so there are no routine belt www.launchtech.co.uk
changes to consider.
These engines are very reliable. or 5000 miles (whichever comes first) to
Edward says that he has a customer maintain reliability.
whose 107 has so far covered 165,000 Edward advises that the trick with
miles and still on its original engine these diminutive motors is to keep on
internals. The owners allow him to top of things – and, of course, regular
change the engine oil every five months maintenance is a big help.

998cc 3-cylinder 12v petrol

AIR FILTER FUSEBOX
EARTH
THROTTLE BODY CONNECTION

CRANK POSITON SENSOR

OIL DIPSTICK
12V BATTERY

IGNITION COILS x 3
UNDER COVER

OXYGEN
SENSOR EXHAUST CAT

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www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 79

Electronic Diagnostics PEUGEOT 107 1.0 PETROL

A simple diagnostic check will show

‘C1554 power steering malfunction’.
Tool of choice The problem lies internally within the
X The Launch X431 Euro Tab II tool is just the job for in-depth steering ECU, which is located above
diagnostic interrogation of this little Peugeot. The equipment the pedals. You can opt for a new ECU
is able to identify the actual vehicle under review and its main – but this route is expensive and coding
drivetrain components. is required. By contrast, Edward uses
In addition, the tool can be used to show a multitude of
different invaluable screenshots, including (for example) an ECU repair company that provides a
those displaying system components/computers present quick repair turnaround and this option
around the vehicle, live data and many other aspects. is a simple plug-and-play fix, which also
The Launch equipment can easily and rapidly be set up comes with a lifetime guarantee.
by the operator to control/operate individual systems and
components remotely (by Bluetooth). The Launch tool can
also be used for a wide variety of other makes and models.
Fault 2:
who’s not used to a ‘pre-power steering’ DODGY MAP SENSOR
Fault 1: car with no power assistance, this can Manifold absolute pressure (MAP)
be scary. The fault will be accompanied sensor problems can become evident
STEERING SYSTEM by a steering system warning light on in several ways. Firstly, and most
ECU FAILURE the dash. In the early stages of this fault commonly, you may have an engine
This fault can be scary in the way it occurring you may simply be able to warning light illuminated, with a lean or
arrives… The driver can be driving along cycle the ignition and the light will clear rich fuel mixture fault code stored, and
normally then suddenly, and without and the steering returns to normal, but possibly a MAP sensor fault code.
prior warning, the steering system’s be warned that the fault will return and It’s worth noting here that the lean
power assistance is lost. To someone catch you out again. or rich codes could be stored due to air

Typical Peugeot 107 components

W On the left side

1 of the engine bay
the 12V battery is housed.
It’s easy to reach, sitting
just behind the headlamp
and inboard of the front
suspension tower. Check
the battery for security,
cleanliness and sound
connections. Fulmen The negative (earth or ground) battery
batteries were used as 2 terminal connector is fairly substantial
OE equipment, so this but can still suffer from the effects of
is probably the original. airborne moisture, eventually resulting in
Fulmen is now in the hands corrosion. Clean the connection, applying
of Exide Technologies. protectant to keep the elements at bay.

The earth/ground cable from the Mounted on the thermostat housing

3 5
battery is earthed on to the left-hand
front suspension tower. Ensure that the
cable is in good condition and that the
connection on to the car’s bodywork is
firmly attached and clean. If not, dismantle
the joint, clean and protect it.
4 Somewhat tucked away towards the
rear of the engine compartment is
the ECU. Note that the ECU on this 107 is
marked ‘Toyota’; a result of the collaboration
involved in producing these cars. Check for
security, damage and moisture ingress.
on the left side of the cylinderhead,
and almost completely hidden from view and
from our probing camera lens, the coolant
temperature sensor (CTS) is essential for
feeding information to the ECU to help
determine fuelling levels.

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 Electronic Diagnostics PEUGEOT 107 1.0 PETROL

Edward advises always to fit a high-

Engine management
The Bosch Motronic ME7.9.5 management system used on this
107 incorporates these primary components:
X Multiplug ECU
X 3 x pencil ignition coils
X 3 x solenoid-type fuel injectors
X Engine coolant temperature
sensor, mounted on cylinderhead
X Throttle body with fly-by-wire
operation
leaks or restrictions. A smoke test of the
intake system is a useful quick check
here; if that’s all okay then carry out
testing on the MAP sensor.
It’s worth looking at live data for the
MAP sensor. In key-on mode, in theory
the reading should be as close to 0 as
possible – anything higher suggests a
faulty sensor.
You need to remove the air filter
housing – first releasing the two
X Brake pedal position sensor
X Standard (traditional-type) lead
acid battery
X Pre- and post-catalytic converter
oxygen/O2/Lambda sensors
X Catalytic converter incorporated
into exhaust manifold
‘squeeze’ clips. You should then see the
MAP sensor at the back of the throttle
body, held by two bolts (10mm). You
could just remove and clean it if no
diagnostic equipment is available;
carefully use a cotton wool bud with a
light proprietary cleaning fluid/spray.
If available use a multimeter set to
‘voltage’ with negative on negative battery
post; the positive cable from multimeter
back probing pin 1 should read 1.2-2 volts.
quality replacement for the sensor.
Some cheaper, poor-quality items are
available, but you would be surprised at
the power loss and dip in fuel economy
that a poorly performing inferior sensor
may bring about. Peugeot do offer parts
prices at competitive rates so a call to
the main dealer may surprise you…
Fault 3:
FUEL PUMP PROBLEMS
This fault can show itself in numerous
ways: notably the engine may start only
after extended cranking, or can cut out
when running. The fault lies with the
fuel pump – or more importantly – the
filter inside it.
First, you could connect an amp clamp
to the fuel pump fuse and check current
draw to see if the pump is drawing more
current than it should be, ie working
harder due to being blocked – or it could

W Tucked behind the battery

6 and just inboard of the
left-hand front suspension tower,
is the underbonnet fuse and relay
box, which is normally covered by
a protective lid. Make sure that
the lid is always correctly and fully
fitted, to keep out moisture.

X Three cylinders means

7 three separate ignition coils
on this engine (and spark plugs
below), all accessibly positioned at
the top of the engine, and usually
hidden by a plastic cover panel.
Ensure that the coils are secure
(each held with one 10mm nut), in
good physical condition and with
sound cables/connections.

The close-coupled oxygen/O2/Lambda
8 sensor and catalytic converter are
positioned right at the front of the engine, and
are very easy to reach. The close proximity
of the cat to the engine helps it to warm up
quickly to effective operating temperature.
Usually concealed beneath the engine
9 cover, the throttle body assembly is
quite accessible once the cover has been
removed. Ensure that the throttle body and
operating flap are clean, and that the flap
moves without sticking.
This view of the top of the engine
10 illustrates the wiring loom assembly
serving the ignition coils and injectors
(which are just visible within the hollow at
the top of the engine, towards the lower
edge of this photo). Check for deterioration.

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www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 81

Electronic Diagnostics PEUGEOT 107 1.0 PETROL

be caused by a pump fault. Edward says

that he likes to connect a fuel pressure
gauge under the bonnet to see actual fuel
pressures. You’re looking for 3.1 to 3.5
bar; anything around 2 bar would show
either a blocked filter or an ailing pump.
You can carry out a resistance check
on the pump between pins 4 and 5, with
your multimeter set to ohms, and you are
looking for 0.2-3 ohms. Access is simple.
Lift up the rear seats and remove the
dust cover; the pump is sat in the fuel
tank beneath a screwed-on cover.
If necessary, removal can be achieved
using a hammer and screwdriver (applied
VERY gently) or better still the special
tool is cheap enough to buy online.
In all cases check the rubber seal
between pump and tank for splits and
correct sealing. Edward advises that
Fault 4:
TECHNICAL SPECS
Actual values
TIME/MILEAGE-
Component Value
EXPIRED WATER PUMP
It’s not unusual for the coolant/water
Injector resistance 12 ohms
pump to leak and the bearings to fail.
Ignition coil pins You should regularly check the pump
1 and 4 0.3-0.8 ohms for signs of leaks – it’s driven via a belt
Oxygen sensor heater on the timing chain side of the engine.
circuit pins 1 and 2 4-16 ohms The belt is adjusted via the alternator,
Crank sensor 1850-2450 ohms and the water pump is held in via five
bolts (12mm spanner size) that need
torqueing to 28Nm on re-installation.
he has found success by removing the Refill the system with four litres of
pump, stripping it down and cleaning it. the correct ‘pink’ (OAT-type) coolant,
It’s worth trying this approach before then run the engine and check for leaks.
jumping straight to pump replacement. Ensure that the heater is blowing hot air
You’ll clearly be able to see the gauze when the system is set to ‘hot’, and that
filter and any dirt build-up. the cooling fan kicks in as designed.

Typical Peugeot 107 components

11 The crankshaft position sensor can
be challenging to see because it’s
mounted low down on the engine, towards
the rear. However, there was just enough
room to get our camera near to the sensor.
Hiding towards the rear of the engine
12
bay is the valve/vent solenoid that
controls the evaporative emissions control
(EVAP) system. If this set-up malfunctions, it
can result in excessive emissions as well as
below-par performance.
The brake and accelerator pedal
13
assemblies incorporate sensors
(not visible here) at their upper ends, to
communicate with the ECU regarding pedal
positions. The diagnostic socket can be
seen at the lower edge of the facia (circled).

W Beneath the dashboard, on

14 the right-hand side, is a separate
ECU serving the steering system. Our
photograph shows the ECU as viewed
from the right-hand footwell, directly
underneath it.
X This close-up of a ‘live data’
15 screenshot on the Launch tool
illustrates that the equipment can
monitor and individually identify misfires
on each of the 107’s three cylinders.
This can help the operator save a great
deal of time. This car was fine!

W The Launch equipment is ideal for

16 running tests on all the different functions
of the management system ECU, and enables the
operator to actuate each system in turn, which
helps to identify/pinpoint problem areas. Edward
used the Launch equipment to operate/control
the various electrical circuits around the vehicle.
This work can be carried out at some distance from
the car, if required. A very useful function of the
Launch tool is the wireless connection, enabling
the operator to work remotely to monitor data.

www.launchtech.co.uk
01752 344 989

82 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Electronic Diagnostics PEUGEOT 107 1.0 PETROL

BOSCH MOTRONIC ME7.8.5 CIRCUIT DIAGRAM www.autodata-group.com

CODE COMPONENT DESCRIPTION CODE COMPONENT DESCRIPTION CODE COMPONENT DESCRIPTION

A16 ABS CONTROL MODULE H22 ENGINE COOLANT ‘HOT’ WARNING LAMP 50 IGNITION SWITCH - START SIGNAL
B19 ABS WHEEL SPEED SENSOR, K12 ENGINE COOLANT BLOWER MOTOR A162 IMMOBILIZER CONTROL MODULE
LEFT FRONT RELAY
Y3-I INJECTOR 1
K143 AC COMPRESSOR CLUTCH RELAY B24 ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) Y3-II INJECTOR 2
SENSOR
A163 AC COMPRESSOR CONTROL MODULE Y3-III INJECTOR 3
H63 ENGINE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR
B53 AC EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE LAMP (MIL) A75 INSTRUMENTATION CONTROL MODULE
SENSOR
Y104 EVAPORATIVE EMISSION (EVAP) A5 INSTRUMENT PANEL
30 BATTERY + CANISTER PURGE VALVE B25 INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE (IAT)
31 BATTERY - M12 FUEL PUMP SENSOR
Y81 CAMSHAFT POSITION (CMP) ACTUATOR K20 FUEL PUMP RELAY B69 KNOCK SENSOR (KS)
B132 CAMSHAFT POSITION (CMP) SENSOR X28-I FUSEBOX/RELAY PLATE 1 B83 MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP)
CAN-H CONTROLLER AREA NETWORK SENSOR
X28-II FUSEBOX/RELAY PLATE 2
(DATA BUS) HIGH A81 POWER STEERING CONTROL MODULE
B72-I HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR (HO2S) 1
CAN-L CONTROLLER AREA NETWORK H111 STOP ENGINE WARNING LAMP
(DATA BUS) LOW B72-II HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR (HO2S) 2
B147 THROTTLE POSITION (TP) SENSOR
B54 CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR K13 HEATED REAR WINDOW RELAY
P9 VEHICLE SPEEDOMETER
X1 DATA LINK CONNECTOR (DLC) Y99 IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) VALVE
T1-I IGNITION COIL 1 NOTE: IN CERTAIN DIAGRAMS (CITROËN, PEUGEOT
A207 ELECTRONIC STABILITY PROGRAM (ESP) & RENAULT) COLOUR CODES ARE REPLACED
CONTROL MODULE T1-II IGNITION COIL 2 BY NUMBERS, WHICH ARE USED TO IDENTIFY A
A35 ENGINE CONTROL MODULE (ECM) T1-III IGNITION COIL 3 PARTICULAR CABLE AND NOT THE COLOUR. IN THIS
INSTANCE, THE CABLES WILL BE NUMBERED AT
K46 ENGINE CONTROL RELAY 15 IGNITION SWITCH - IGNITION ON EACH END CLOSE TO THE HARNESS CONNECTOR.

www.launchtech.co.uk
01752 344 989

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 83

 Our Cars
Rob
Hawkins
Special Contributor
Self-isolating
– and self-
servicing too

M
onday 23 March was the last
time I drove a car on the road,
set foot in a supermarket and
rode my bike to the park. The
next day, my wife was told to self-isolate
for 12 weeks and I received the same
instructions a couple of weeks later.
With two teenage boys in the Hawkins
household, we realised that locking my
wife and me away in the loft for the next
three months wasn’t going to work, so
we all had to stay within the confines
of the house and garden. Workwise,
this wasn’t going to be too much of a
problem, especially with four vehicles
on the driveway. One of them was a 2007
Peugeot 107 Sport XS that editor Martyn which included a set of front discs and wheel bolt key – but locking wheel bolts
had dropped off for me in early March to pads, engine oil, filters (air and oil), were fitted to the NSF and OSR wheels.
service for CM’s DIY Servicing series – three spark plugs, windscreen wipers/ So with the Pug in my garage, I retrieved
look out for it in the August 2020 issue screenwash and a 12-volt battery. a set of Rally Design Blackline twist
– plus fix a few problems, including a I tried rearranging the cars on my sockets (locking wheel nut remover set)
battered and bruised rear bumper. driveway to put the Pug in my garage, and hammered one of them over the
Before our lockdown, I’d driven the but its battery had gone flat (Martyn had NSF locking wheel bolt, then carefully
little Pug a few times and was astounded pre-warned me that it might), so that tried to undo it with a breaker bar. I was
by how agile it is with its three-cylinder was renewed first. lucky, it slackened.
998cc petrol engine mated to a five-speed The old Fulmen battery looked like On the OSR, I wasn’t so lucky. The
manual gearbox. This badge-engineered it was the original – at nearly 13 years end of the locking wheel bolt sheared
supermini is almost identical in old, it had done well. While the tops of off, leaving the remains of it keeping the
specification whether it’s a Toyota Aygo, the terminals had been greased over wheel in position. I tried undoing it with
Pug 107 or Citroën C1. time, they had corroded underneath, so a hammer and small chisel, but it was
The first job on the list for the Pug was needed lots of leverage to release them. no good. I also tried drilling more holes
a thorough service. GSF Car Parts kindly When handing over the car, Martyn to reshape it and fitted another twist
offered to send me the parts I needed, and I realised there was no locking socket, but it still wouldn’t slacken.

A replacement DriveTec New Bendix discs and

40Ah battery was supplied pads were supplied
by GSF Car Parts. The by GSF Car Parts. Old
Fulmen battery looks like Brembo pads were
it’s the original. Underside almost new but had
of the terminals was been unevenly worn
heavily corroded. by rusty discs.

84 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Our Cars Rob Hawkins

In my garage
2005 Audi A3 2.0 TDI Ex-project car from CM. The family transport since 2016.
1998 Mazda MX-5 1840cc
Inspection pit Another ex-project car from CM. Recently resprayed and looking good, for now.
and power tools 1976 VW Transporter 1584cc Owned since 2010 and used for occasional camping trips.
make jobs such
as undoing these
caliper slider bolts
so much easier.

Aleem Hussain from ahmobiletyrefitting.co.uk came to Rob’s house and replaced

the Pug’s Continental Conti Eco Contact 3 with a later Contact 6. Cost: £85.

Confined to his home during the
coronavirus pandemic, Rob makes use of
his garage and gets stuck into servicing
CM’s Peugeot 107 for a DIY Servicing guide.
In the meantime, I got stuck into
servicing the car. While the air filter
and spark plugs were straightforward,
as was checking all the vital fluids, the
oil sump drain plug was a bit over-tight;
and the spin-on oil filter had to be
practically torn off.
The car’s paperwork shows it was last
serviced in October 2017 when it had
59,279 miles on the clock (it now reads
67,741 miles). As I picked over the car,
I started to think about the pressure
of getting this work done quickly in a
commercial garage, versus my situation
where I had more time than usual. Had
the sump drain plug been overtightened
beyond its recommended 30Nm simply
Twist sockets
from Rally
Design came
to the rescue
with removing
one of the
locking wheel
bolts. On the
OSR, Rob tried
to remove the
remains by
drilling into it,
but he’s still
struggling to
undo it.
because it takes too long to retrieve
a torque wrench? Or maybe most
mechanics can judge how much 30Nm
is? Had I just been unlucky with the old
spin-on oil filter, which may have been
easier to undo if I’d first warmed the
engine up a bit more?
There were some aspects that didn’t
surprise me, such as the fact that all the
alloy wheels (except the OSR) needed
a lump hammer and block of wood to
release them. I have the same problem on
my MX-5, even though I regularly clean
and grease the inside of each wheel.
Newish pads, crap discs
When I started to strip the front brakes,
I continued to wonder more and more.
I discovered the fitted Brembo pads
were almost new, but the brake discs
were so corroded around the inside they
had unevenly worn ridges into the pads.
Perhaps at the time of fitting those brake
pads, the discs were not sufficiently worn
and rusty to recommend being replaced!
The brake disc locating screw on the
OSF sheared halfway through unwinding
it, so I decided to have a go at drilling
and tapping a new thread. Leaving the
old disc in situ, I drilled a pilot hole, but
stupidly removed the disc and continued
to enlarge the hole and tap a new thread,
only to find I was slightly out after fitting
the new disc. The screw helps to secure
the disc to the hub and line up the holes
for the wheel bolts. Although it’s missing,
it’s not dangerous – but I’ll work out a
means of tapping a new thread.
Fitting the new Bendix discs and pads
was straightforward and I was glad of the
brake grease, which was smeared lightly
to the top and bottom edges of the pads
and around the spigot ring area where
the wheel sits (hopefully this will make
it easier to remove the wheel in future).
The rear brakes are drums with self-
adjusting shoes. I managed to prise the
NSR drum off easily because there are
two M8-threaded holes in its face (there
are similar holes on the faces of the
front discs). There was plenty of brake
dust inside, yet the brake shoes looked
relatively new. So, I cleaned everything
and refitted the drum, pressed the brake
pedal several times and operated the
handbrake lever to adjust the shoes. As
for the OSR brake drum, I’ll service it
when I can get the wheel off when we are
allowed out again.
I noticed the NSR tyre was worn close
to the limit, so I contacted a mobile tyre
fitter and was quoted £85 to supply and fit
a new Continental Conti Eco Contact 6
tyre. If I could have visited a tyre
specialist, the price would have been £65
fitted, so even though I had no choice
due to self-isolating, the convenience
was still worth the extra £20. I’ve often
wasted half a morning driving back and
forth to have a tyre changed.
After taking nearly 300 photos and
spending almost 16 hours in my garage,
I’d finished the service, but still had a
locking wheel bolt to remove, a brake
drum to service and a disc locating
screw to fix. Each photo takes a couple
of minutes to set up, take and check, so
that accounts for ten hours. The locking
wheel bolt had soaked up another two
hours, so that meant I’d completed the
service and disc brake change in four
hours. Somehow, I don’t think I’d last
too long in a commercial garage.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 85

 Our Cars
Rob
Marshall
Special Contributor
Lockdown
old & youngtimer
distractions

I
t was not meant to be this way.
As February gave way to March,
the sun came out, the floodwater
subsided (a bit) and thoughts turned
to the summer and cherished chariots.
My modern(ish) Citroën C5 was
entirely reliable throughout the soggy
winter months, although CM’s former
Hyundai Coupé project lent a hand
with occasional transportation, once
its strange electrical gremlins were
banished – more details about this will
be revealed subsequently, when it leaves
Chez Marshall later in the year. Anyway,
with spring in the air, it was time for
hibernating vehicles to see the light of day.
440 on hold
Some readers may remember that I bought
a 18,000-mile F-registered Volvo 440 for
Plans to resurrect an old Volvo 440 in 2020 have proved
somewhat premature. Work should resume later in the year.
£700 in 2011. Now virtually extinct, this MXVs were going to be replaced with
model was a quality Swedish hatchback, a set of Energy Saver+ tyres anyway,
with French running gear, British but jacking up the car to remove the
suspension, Italian build quality and wheels revealed badly perished rubber
made by former shipbuilders in Holland. wishbone bushes.
Why else would I be so fond of the model As I had several sets of original Volvo
had it not been so flawed? bushes ‘in stock’ that cost me £2 from
Despite having full dealer service a main dealer clear-out several years
history, it was hardly immaculate but it ago, plus a set of quality Febi Bilstein
didn’t take much effort to bring it up to lower balljoints, I chose to recondition
scratch. Fast-forward to March 2020 and, the wishbones, rather than buy new
after spending three years in storage some aftermarket assemblies. The plan was to
40 miles away from my home, I figured take the wheel rims and wishbones away,
that it should see the light of day again. have new tyres fitted, then reunite them
Naturally, work was needed before the with the car, prior to having it MOT’d.
MOT Test. The original 1980s’ Michelin Then lockdown struck.

Rob intended to replace the 440’s original Michelin MXVs regardless Despite the Volvo’s low mileage, age has caught up with the 440’s
but, even so, they had split badly during three years of storage. lower wishbone bushes.

Lockdown meant that Rob diverted attention from the 440 to his Because they cost a modest £25 each, Rob decided to replace the
480. Tired rear upper radius arms needed a balljoint splitter to complete arms, rather than the (obsolete) bushes alone. He hopes
separate them from the hub. they’ll cure the 480 coupé’s wayward handling.

86 Car Mechanics pJune 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Our Cars Rob Marshall

The 480 electric aerial wouldn’t raise high

enough, because the mast’s internally
geared nylon strip had fractured.
In my garage
2007 Citroën C5 Exclusive estate diesel 1997cc. Motorway
hack, bought when three years old from a Citroën UK auction at BCA.
2005 Citroën C5 VTR estate petrol 1997cc. Wife’s everyday
runabout, maintained by me.
1993 Volvo 480ES 1998cc. My modern classic. In generally good
order and capable of everyday use. Currently hibernating.
1990 Volvo 460 Turbo Restored in 2018/9, now in storage but
small jobs are being tackled.
1989 Volvo 440 GLT Injection 1721cc. Believed to be the
earliest UK survivor. Only 23,000 miles on the clock.
3 x Triumph Dolomites In varying condition.
3 x Triumph Toledos Varying from show worthy to everyday use.

Suspension repairs W The plastic link

continue
With the 440 abandoned miles away, its
front dangling in the air ignominiously,
all I could do was give attention to the
existing parked-up fleet at home.
I dealt with my Volvo 480 coupé’s
wayward handling first. Entering a
corner under hard acceleration would
see the rear react – then kick-back, which
demanded some steering correction to
prevent oversteer.
Inspecting the rear suspension
revealed very perished upper rear radius
arm bushes on both sides. The inner
bush had rusted solidly on to the hub
assembly, meaning that the rubber had
to be separated from the metal by brute
force before the corroded middle part of
the bush could be cut away with an angle
grinder. Thankfully, fitting the new
radius arms ( just £50 the pair) was not
quite as dramatic.
Getting it up
(and down)
While I couldn’t road-test the 480 to see
if this had solved the problem, I could
address several other foibles. A second-
hand item replaced a front speaker
that had shed most of its cone, though
addressing the dicey radio reception
was a little trickier.
The problem was the self-raising
aerial, which would rise to around a
quarter of its intended travel, before
stopping with an awful grinding sound.
It operates via a toothed nylon strip,
fixed to the metal mast, which wraps
around a powered internal gear wheel.
Worn teeth cause the strip to slip,
resulting in the racket. New aerial
assemblies are obsolete but new masts
are only about £15. Mind you, fitting
dictates removing and dismantling the
unit. Despite being a fiddly task, though,
I managed to swap the parts and it
worked first-time.
Next came the tilting sunroof. A
common problem is that the plastic
retaining pins that connect the glass
panel with the operating cables snap and,
surprise, surprise, they are unavailable
to buy new. The sunroof will, therefore,
not close and water finds its way into the
cabin. Now that the 480 is gaining a little
recognition, some parts are being remade,
and an enterprising European enthusiast
has replicated the weak moulded pins out
of brass. They cost an eye-watering €70
(about £62), so I was disappointed that
I still had to modify them to fit.
Another problem associated with
brittle 1980s/90s plastic is that the facia
cowling was starting to split. I removed the
part and reinforced the affected areas with
glassfibre before they broke up completely.
With the dashboard dismantled, I accessed
the inoperative bulb within the hazard
rods that operate the
tilting sunroof had
broken; a common
fault. The expensive
brass replacements
required some
modification before
they would fit inside
the mechanism.
warning light switch by pulling off its
front face. Sometimes, the simplest tasks
are the most satisfying.
Having the painters in
Despite its huge disadvantages, lockdown
let me make some headway with a
Triumph Dolomite restoration project,
by getting its bodyshell primed and ready
for top-coat. Meanwhile, my 1974 Toledo
(owned since 1993) was starting to bear
the ravages of winter use. It is due a full
restoration, including replacement of
both rear quarter panels that are full of
rust and filler, yet advanced decay had
caused holes to appear. Several days of
cutting, welding, priming and painting
has bought it a few more years of use –
I knew that old tin of cellulose paint
would come in useful one day!
Lockdown meant that Rob
had to prime his Dolomite
restoration project at home.
His Toledo (foreground) is
in all year-round use and
needed major repairs to
the rear wings and minor
titivation to the door
bottoms. They are pictured
painted in primer.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 87

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www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics June 2020 pCar Mechanics 89

 In my
Humble Opinion
Mike pays homage to the unlikeliest cars you could possibly miss after selling.
Montego… oh how
I miss you!
X One of the many questions I seem to be asked by relative
strangers – and of course, people who know me well – who
are aware of my antics is: which car do I miss not having any
more? Over the years, I’ve owned and driven some really
lovely examples – private, company and many showroom
demonstrators. You name it and there’s every chance I’ve had
a steer in one, from shagged-out jalopies to supercharged
Jaguars, Rivas to Rolls-Royces. I seriously reckon that if I
were to include buses, coaches and HGVs into the mixture,
the number must surely be in its thousands – honestly!
But sticking just with cars owned or run on company
business, there have been some nice things over the years.
Some that come to mind include a number of Saabs, a last
of the line V-plate Rover 620Ti, a brace of Land Rovers and
various VAG products. To come to an ultimate decision as to
which one I look back to with rose-tinted fondness isn’t as
hard as you might imagine. Of all the motors I have been the
incumbent of since 1989 – the year I qualified to be a public
nuisance on the highway – the one I miss most of all is a 1990
Rover Montego 1600LX.
No, that’s fine, I’m quite happy to wait a while as you
chortle, snigger and spray this page with your expelled
tea. Are you quite finished now? Good – then allow me
to explain, please. If like me, you champion the virtues of
self-spannering, Rover’s last hurrah of the good old bad
old days of British Leyland was a textbook lesson in how to
snatch defeat from the snapping jaws of victory. Packed with
technology when launched in 1984, but even more simple to
assemble than a bucket of Lego, it beggars belief at just how
Austin Rover managed to cock it up.
That said, Montegos were pleasant to drive, totally idiot-
proof to mend and by the time the facelifted versions came
on song in late ’88, they became reasonably reliable. My first
Montego foray was a trade-in bought for £150 from a mate’s
Hyundai dealer. It was a 1993 ex-Vodafone mobile engineer’s
diesel LX estate. Standard equipment included loads of
rust, an MOT with expiry time you could almost measure by
holding your breath and, due to a blown head gasket, a thirst
for water that could give the Flying Scotsman a fright. It was
only bought to help move to a new flat; it worked out cheaper
than renting a Transit Luton for a weekend.
Print constraints restrict me from explaining why I kept it
for a further eight months. I welded up the B-posts, sorted
the head gasket and put it through an MOT. It ran for another
couple of years racking up over 270,000 miles before it
succumbed to the scrappie in the sky after being shoved
up the backside by a Volvo after I had sold it on – Alan, the
acquaintance I sold it to, was truly gutted. A couple of years
later I bought another one, only this time it was a red 1.6LX
that cost me little more than a handful of magic beans. The
salesman simply didn’t have the heart to weigh it in.
Moving forwards and, after a few years of Montego-free
motoring, I bloody well ended up with another after seeing it
at a Cambridgeshire motor show. I was bored of my Rover 75
90 Car Mechanics pJune 2020
“Standard equipment included loads of rust,
an MOT with expiry time you could almost
measure by holding your breath and, due to
a blown head gasket, a thirst for water that
could give The Flying Scotsman a fright...”
and he was unsure whether a one-owner, 20,000-mile, utterly
immaculate Montego was ideal as his daily driver. We swapped
details, met up a week or so later, fell in love with each other’s
cars and did a cash-free straight swap. The Monty wasn’t
mint, though – the central locking worked on only one door,
there was an oil leak starting from the camshaft carrier and
a whole list of other niggly things to put right. At the time,
I was running a company car, so there was no real rush.
One-by-one the job list got smaller and the car earned itself
the nickname of the “Mintego” owing to fact it was rust-free
and from 20 yards looked better than something brand-
new. It even took pride of place on the Maestro Montego
club stand at the NEC Restoration Show where a certain Ant
Anstead made a beeline for it, telling me his father had an
identical model back in the day. They say that time heals old
wounds, owing to the fact that during its production run it
was a troubled soul. I distinctly remember them slowly being
replaced for newer models and their already dismal used
values dropping quicker than a weighed-down stone.
But after getting the car reliable and throwing on a pair
of new rear shock absorbers, it trundled around with a kind
of happiness you only find with a retro-wreck. Old boys at
fuel stations would come over and chat, the odd overtaking
motorist would roll by, toot the horn and nod in appreciation.
Suddenly I was back in a Zircon Blue world where motoring
was a joy once more, a cat meant nothing more than a four-
legged family pet and your fellow motorist wasn’t out to
tailgate you into oblivion. The whole world almost slowed down
and, since then, I’ve rarely been happier behind the wheel.
Sadly, I had to let the old girl go owing to a cashflow issue –
namely more of the stuff was flowing out than coming in.
I was offered a seriously good cash price to sell her to a retro car
collector, and the deal was sealed. So, there you go – not all of
us motor trade diehards need a howling V8 and a sub-6sec
0-60 time to smile. Some of us need nothing more than a pile
of old but reliable rubbish to be content. That’s mine; so why
not write in and tell me about your unlikely one that got away?
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
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