Professional Documents
Culture Documents
i v e!
big-time poker
c o n f e s s i o n s o f a s h ow b i z
with
leo, ben & tobey !
gambling queen By molly bloom p . 78
special
issue!
The 20 th
Century’s Hollywood’s
greatest
adventuress next
wave!
(Not Another
Jackie Kennedy Story,
We Promise)
By sylvia jukes
m o r r i s p. 98
The 21 st
Century’s
greatest
Shailene
airport (Not New York’s
woodley
By
La Guardia, We Promise)
plus:
23
more kids
turning the
movie business
on its ear
By krista smith p . 52
Photos by
miguel reveriego
“A moment of strength,
of romance, of glamour—of youth!”
{
—Joseph Conrad
J U LY 201 4
piketty craze p . 40
ingrid sischy on
j e f f k o o n s and his
$177 million spl ash p . 8 6
78
FEATURES
52 THE NEXT WAVE By K R IS TA SMI T H
Since The Descendants, Shailene Woodley has been
on Hollywood’s fast track—from the Divergent franchise
to this month’s The Fault in Our Stars—yet she remains
completely herself. Plus: 23 youngsters headed for fame
on their own terms. Photographs by Miguel Reveriego.
B OTTO M , BY EL L EN VO N UNW ERTH /TR UN K A RCHI VE . PH OTO I L L USTR ATI O N , TO P RI G HT, BY DA R ROW; FOR C RE DI TS, TURN TO PAGE 80
PH OTO GRA P HS : TO P L EF T, BY A L FR E D E I SE NSTA E DT/ TI ME & L I F E PI CT UR E S/G ET T Y I MAG ES , DI GI TA L CO L ORI ZATI ON BY LO RNA C L ARK ;
86
78 HER HOUSE OF CARDS By MOL LY BL OOM
In her 20s, the author ran Hollywood’s most exclusive poker
game, luring A-list names—Tobey, Ben, Leo—and their
millions to her table. In an adaptation from her memoir,
Bloom deals the dish on the biggest winners and losers.
Photo illustration by Darrow. Photograph by John Russo.
109
FANFAIR &
FAIRGROUND
A B O V E : Third Person star Moran Atias, in Los Angeles. 27 31 DAYS IN THE LIFE OF THE CULTURE
B E L O W : Donna Tartt’s Pulitzer Prize–winning best-seller, The Goldfnch. The Greenwich Hotel’s lofty getaway. Hot Type. The best
plastic-surgery alternatives.
COLUMNS
PH OTO GRA P HS : TO P, BY J A N WE LTE RS ; BUST I ER BY GUE SS ; S HO RTS BY DSQ UA RE D2; E A R RI NGS BY CA RTIE R; B RACE LE T
40
ET CETERA
20 EDITOR’S LETTER CIVIL RIGHTS AND CIVIL FLIGHTS
22 IN THE DETAILS JASON SEGEL
24 60 MINUTES POLL
115 ON THE COVER
116 PROUST QUESTIONNAIRE WILLEM DAFOE
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Contributing Editors
HENRY ALFORD, KURT ANDERSEN, SUZANNA ANDREWS, ROBERT SAM ANSON, JUDY BACHRACH, DONALD L. BARLETT, CARL BERNSTEIN,
PETER BISKIND, BUZZ BISSINGER, HOWARD BLUM, PATRICIA BOSWORTH, MARK BOWDEN, DOUGLAS BRINKLEY, ALICE BRUDENELL-BRUCE,
MICHAEL CALLAHAN, MARINA CICOGNA, EDWIN JOHN COASTER, WILLIAM D. COHAN, RICH COHEN, JOHN CONNOLLY, STEVEN DALY,
BEATRICE MONTI DELLA CORTE, JANINE DI GIOVANNI, KURT EICHENWALD, LISA EISNER, SARAH ELLISON, BRUCE FEIRSTEIN, STEVE GARBARINO,
A. A. GILL, PAUL GOLDBERGER, VANESSA GRIGORIADIS, MICHAEL JOSEPH GROSS, LOUISE GRUNWALD, BRUCE HANDY, DAVID HARRIS, JOHN HEILPERN,
REINALDO HERRERA, CAROL BLUE HITCHENS, SARAJANE HOARE, A. M. HOMES, LAURA JACOBS, SEBASTIAN JUNGER, DAVID KAMP, SAM KASHNER,
MICHAEL KINSLEY, EDWARD KLEIN, BETSY KENNY LACK, FRAN LEBOWITZ, ADAM LEFF, DANY LEVY, MICHAEL LEWIS, GEORGE LOIS,
DAVID MARGOLICK, VICTORIA MATHER (TRAVEL), BRUCE McCALL, BETHANY McLEAN, PATRICK McMULLAN, PIPPA MIDDLETON, SETH MNOOKIN,
FREDERIC MORTON, NINA MUNK, DEE DEE MYERS, ELISE O’SHAUGHNESSY, JAMIE PALLOT, EVGENIA PERETZ, JEAN PIGOZZI, WILLIAM PROCHNAU,
TODD S. PURDUM, JOHN RICHARDSON, LISA ROBINSON, DAVID ROSE, RICHARD RUSHFIELD, NANCY JO SALES, ELISSA SCHAPPELL, MARK SEAL,
GAIL SHEEHY, MICHAEL SHNAYERSON, ALEX SHOUMATOFF, INGRID SISCHY, SALLY BEDELL SMITH, JAMES B. STEELE, CHRISTOPHER TENNANT,
MATT TYRNAUER, CRAIG UNGER, DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, ELIZABETH SALTZMAN WALKER, BENJAMIN WALLACE, HEATHER WATTS,
JIM WINDOLF, JAMES WOLCOTT, EVAN WRIGHT, NED ZEMAN
In Memoriam CHRISTOPHER HITCHENS (1949–2011), TIM HETHERINGTON (1970–2011), DOMINICK DUNNE (1925–2009),
DAVID HALBERSTAM (1934–2007), MARJORIE WILLIAMS (1958–2005), HELMUT NEWTON (1920–2004), HERB RITTS (1952–2002)
Contributing Photographers
ANNIE LEIBOVITZ
BRUCE WEBER, JONATHAN BECKER, MARK SELIGER, PATRICK DEMARCHELIER, HARRY BENSON, LARRY FINK, TIMOTHY GREENFIELD-SANDERS, SAM JONES,
JONAS FREDWALL KARLSSON, DAVID LaCHAPELLE, MICHAEL O’NEILL, NORMAN JEAN ROY, SNOWDON, MARIO TESTINO, GASPER TRINGALE, FIROOZ ZAHEDI
Photographer-at-Large TODD EBERLE Contributing Artists HILARY KNIGHT, ROSS MacDONALD, ROBERT RISKO, TIM SHEAFFER, EDWARD SOREL, STEPHEN DOYLE
Contributors
Fashion Market Director (Menswear) HEATHER SHIMOKAWA Senior Accessories Editor DAISY SHAW Special Projects Associates ARI BERGEN, ANDREA WHITTLE
Special Projects Art Director ANGELA PANICHI Senior Photography Producer RON BEINNER Photography Editor LEA GOLIS Assistant Photography Editor CATE STURGESS
Digital Production Manager H. SCOTT JOLLEY Production Managers BETH BARTHOLOMEW, SUSAN M. RASCO, VALERIE BITICI TWERDAHL
U.K. Production Manager KARRIE CORNELL Associate Editor S. P. NIX Daily Blogger JOSH DUBOFF Executive Assistant to the Editor MARC GOODMAN
I LL UST RATI O NS BY M A RK M ATCHO
Editorial Assistants ELIEN BLUE BECQUE, MARLEY BROWN Beauty Assistant ALYSSA REEDER Associate Accessories Editor JACLYN COBOURN
Stylist DEBORAH AFSHANI Designer KAITLYN PEPE Editorial Researcher AMY DAVIS
Public Relations
Executive Director of Public Relations BETH KSENIAK Deputy Director of Public Relations LIZZIE WOLFF
Public Relations Manager RACHEL TASHJIAN Public Relations Assistant AUDE WHITE
16 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
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18 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
EDITOR’S LETTER
NIG EL PARRY
your faith in the American judi- 25,000 miles as he reported the article,
cial system: two of the country’s shuttling among New York, London, and
fnest lawyers, epitomizing opposing phi- the Gulf. He took a shower 36,000 feet
losophies—David Boies, the supremely over Germany. He spent half of one
accomplished trial lawyer and ardent Emirates-airline flight propping up the
Democrat, and Theodore Olson, solici- curved, well-stocked cocktail bar during
tor general under President George W. the 131⁄2-hour haul between Dubai and
Bush—forgoing partisanship in the name New York. On such trips, Boynton notes,
of civil rights. Boies and Olson joined “one meets loads of interesting people,
forces in the legal battle to overturn as you do in bars in the city, only these
Proposition 8, California’s 2008 ban on people are all real highfiers”—investment
same-sex marriage—ultimately prevail- bankers, international wheeler-dealers,
ing last year in a landmark Supreme veteran diplomats. And, as Wilkes adds,
Court case, Hollingsworth v. Perry. My “singles fock to the bar in the business-
esteemed colleague Financial Times edi- class area for strong drinks. They’re all
tor Lionel Barber pays homage to their looking for that high-altitude hookup. The
fght for marriage equality in this month’s V.F. Portrait, on page bartender sees and hears all. And he told me things that left me pon-
66. The unlikely allies recently teamed up again to write an account of dering the idea of a reality-TV series—set in the Emirates bar.”
the case, Redeeming the Dream: The Case for Marriage Equality.
I
They are also featured in a new HBO documentary, The Case t’s hard to think of a group that has burst onto the scene faster—or
Against 8, directed by Ben Cotner and Ryan White. To put the col- with greater global impact—than the Russian protest-art collective
laboration of Boies and Olson into stark perspective, these were known as Pussy Riot. You sometimes hear them referred to in
the two men whose last appearance before the Supreme Court was shorthand as a punk-rock group—but they’re not. Better to think of
on opposite sides of the infamous Bush v. Gore decision, in 2000, them as performance artists who have brought political theater—di-
when the court awarded the presidency to Bush. Their common rected mainly against Vladimir Putin and his increasingly repressive
fght—one that began decades ago with the eforts of countless oth- and aggressive neo-Stalinist regime—to a high pitch of media-savviness.
ers—is, as Barber writes, “not a liberal or conservative issue” but “a Most of the collective’s members are anonymous, identifable by the
basic human-rights issue.” The fght is far from over, but thanks to neon balaclavas they wear when engaged in brazen and courageous
these two valiant advocates, we are one very signifcant step closer. acts of public protest. Two of them, Masha Alyokhina and Nadya
Tolokonnikova, became the group’s public face, and have paid dearly.
I
n the jet age of the 50s and 60s, before commercial air travel Two and a half years ago, Alyokhina and Tolokonnikova, then
became the cattle-car ordeal it is today, fying was fashionable. aged 23 and 22, were arrested by Russian authorities for perform-
Passengers dressed for transatlantic fights. Men wore suits and ing an anti-Putin “punk prayer” in a Moscow cathedral. They were
ties. Women wore dresses and heels and carried hatboxes onto the sentenced, after a Kafka-esque trial, to two years in Gulag-like penal
airplane. And as frequent fiers strode across the high-gloss traver- colonies. The history of the group, and a detailed account of the
tine foors of international air terminals, the assertive click-clack of trial and imprisonment of these two young women, has been haunt-
their bufed oxfords and high heels seemed a perfect complement ingly told by V.F. contributor Masha Gessen in her book Words Will
to the strains of Henry Mancini or André Kostelanetz that would Break Cement, published earlier this year. Alyokhina and Tolokon-
flter over the airport sound system. nikova were released from prison weeks before the Sochi Olympics—
Today, fashionable fying is back, a renaissance that has been part of Putin’s short-lived (but rather successful) goodwill campaign
ushered in largely by the Gulf states, fush with petro-dollars and to buy a respite from criticism during the Games, before returning to
keen to dominate this coveted high-end market. For his article business as usual by annexing Crimea. Not that Alyokhina or Tolo-
“The New Jet Age,” on page 68, Graham Boynton spent several konnikova experienced much of that goodwill frsthand: they were
weeks on the prowl—and devoted one continuous, 24-hour stretch attacked and beaten in Sochi by Cossack thugs (captured on video),
to observing the ebb and flow of passengers moving through in all likelihood with the Kremlin’s tacit or explicit approval. But
the magnifcent Dubai International Airport. “There wasn’t one this has not deterred them in the least.
period when it stopped pulsating with people,” he recalls. The Pussy Riot is still in business, and as Masha Gessen explains in
busiest hours at the airport, says photographer Stephen Wilkes, her Spotlight “The Riot Act,” on page 84, Alyokhina and Tolokon-
who spent days on the assignment, “are between 11 p.m. and 3 nikova have taken the show on the road, now as prisoners’-rights
a.m.” The temperature outside on one of those August days? One activists, to the United States. But they are not expatriates. Russia
hundred eleven degrees Fahrenheit. That is, until a gust of even is their home and where they belong—and it is where they are re-
more scorching air overtook Wilkes and his crew, who soon real- turning. Vladimir Putin would love to be able to say that he doesn’t
ized that they’d set up their equipment directly atop the terminal’s have Pussy Riot to kick around any longer. But he does. More to
main air-conditioning exhaust system. the point, they have him. —GR AY DON C A R T ER
20 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
IN THE DETAILS
JASON SEGEL
A PA N O P LY O F E C C E N T R I C B I O G R A P H I C A L DATA R E : H O L LY WO O D ’ S FAVO R I T E F U N N Y G U Y
J
ason Segel is the afable Judd- housing his puppet collection—compris-
Apatow-comedy-troupe alum ing between 15 and 30 fgurines. “I used
who has gone on to headline to live in there,” Segel says of the house,
nine seasons of How I Met “and then I realized that it was incred-
Your Mother, reboot the Muppets, ibly creepy to have visitors over, because
and co-star with Cameron Diaz in I just looked like a total weirdo.”
this July’s Sex Tape comedy. Despite HIS BEST friend is Brian, a medical doc-
his Hollywood successes as a writer, tor living in New Haven, Connecticut,
producer, and actor—and his dramatic whom Segel has known since he was 13.
departure as David Foster Wallace in HIS FATHER recently retired as a corpo-
the upcoming biopic The End of the rate lawyer.
Tour—Segel seems to identify most HE HAS two siblings, a brother named
with the awkward, adolescent iteration Adam, who is a money manager, and a
of himself that inspired his frst liter- sister named Alison, whom Segel calls
ary efort, Nightmares!: a young-adult a “relentlessly hilarious writer.”
trilogy co-authored by Kirsten Miller, HE DID not warn his mother that he ap-
the first installment of which arrives peared fully naked in the 2008 breakup
in bookstores in September. Here, a comedy Forgetting Sarah Marshall,
compendium of the 34-year-old’s noc- which he wrote, before she saw the flm.
turnal memories, everyday preferences, Her reaction: “She cried,” he recalls.
and endearing peculiarities. SHE THEN sent out a mass e-mail to fam-
HE BEGINS each day with fve or six cups ily members with the following warn-
of black coffee and only switches to ing: “I would like to inform you all that
water once he starts feeling ill. WE LOVE YOU, MAN Jason has chosen to do full-frontal nudity, however, it
Actor and author
HE IS right-handed when it comes to all activities except Jason Segel,
is not gratuitous and is essential to the plot.”
eating. At the table, he mysteriously becomes a lefty. in Los Angeles. HIS MOTHER has not needed to send out mass e-mail
HIS FAVORITE meal is steak, which he’s been eating less of warnings about his flms since.
since becoming more health-conscious around his 30th birthday. HIS LIFELINE is an iPhone, which displays a Karl Kwasny illustration
UNTIL THE age of 10, he wore a Superman cape tied around his neck from Segel’s forthcoming novel on the home screen.
and covertly tucked underneath his clothes—just in case anything WHEN IT comes to interior décor, Segel has “a real affinity for
went awry in his Pacifc Palisades, California, neighborhood. things that are, by any account, an old man’s taste—a lot of dusty
AS A pre-teen, Segel had recurring nightmares during which he al- brown and corduroy.”
ways fought Dracula inside the vampire’s house, becoming very fa- HE RETIRED his D.V.R. a couple of years ago upon realizing that TV
miliar with his nocturnal nemesis’s foor plan: “I created this very prevented him from seeing classic flms: “I just got around to see-
cushy living-room environment [in my mind] where I could hide ing Citizen Kane, which blew my mind, and Singin’ in the Rain.”
from Dracula and play video games.” TO OFFICIATE a wedding on The Tonight Show in 2010 between
HE HAS no regrets about having worn a mustard-colored jacket and two fans, he became an ordained minister by completing a two-
purple pants to his Bar Mitzvah, in the early 90s, “when that was minute Internet transaction.
totally acceptable to wear.” HE PLAYS the piano, toys with a ukulele, and can teach himself a
HE IS in no rush to have any pets, especially after growing up with song on the guitar if you give him two weeks’ notice. While he’s
two dogs and six cats. never been in a band, he has performed onstage with Maroon 5
EVER SINCE watching the Muppets on television as a child, Segel and the folk group the Swell Season.
has had a deep and abiding love for puppets. His frst was “an HE DOES a lot of thinking between midnight and four a.m. and fg-
PH OTO GRA P H BY MI CHA E L MUL L ER /C PI SYN DI CAT I ON
old man named Walter,” which Segel recalls purchasing outside ures that he probably annoys his assistant most with furries of
Faneuil Hall, in Boston. random early-morning e-mails.
HIS NICKNAME in high school was “Dr. Dunk”—because he was a “lean, HE KEEPS in touch with Ted Walch, his high-school performing-arts in-
mean” basketball-playing machine. After inheriting his parents’ black structor at Harvard-Westlake, to whom Segel says he owes his career.
Jeep Grand Cherokee, he briefy consid- HE CARRIES a framed photo of the late
ered getting a “Dr. Dunk” vanity license
plate but settled for a custom-embroidered
HIS HIGH-SCHOOL Oscar-nominated actor Peter Sellers to
every flm set to remind himself of his
“Dr. Dunk” baseball hat instead. NICKNAME WAS acting inspiration—a man whose dual
“DR. DUNK.”
BORN AND raised in Los Angeles, he still ability to bring audiences to laughter
lives there and keeps a second home in and tears makes him indefinable in
town strictly for writing, working, and Segel’s book. —julie miller
22 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
THE 60 MINUTES/ VANITY FAIR POLL
{
about an overweight
10 president? 2 @vf.com
SEE THE
IT HAS COMPLETE
. . . MORE NOTHING TO Could you be POLL
At the gym, LIKELY TO DO WITH attracted to RESULTS.
GETTING THE
APPEARANCE DOESN’T MATTER / 15%
. . . MORE
LIKELY TO
GET HIT ON?
15%
25%
9 3
If you knew
it would work and
remain secret,
what would you
change with plastic
NEITHER
IS LIKELY
77%
YES, POSSIBLE / 74%
NO, NOT POSSIBLE / 24%
P90X Which fitness
trend won’t last?
ZUMBA
STOMACH / 31%
PHOTOGRAPHS © GERRY YARDY/AL AMY (1); FROM MARY EVANS/EMBASSY INTERNATIONAL PICTURES/UNIVERSAL PICTURES/RONALD GRANT/
NOSE / 9%
CHIN / 8%
BREASTS / 6%
CROSSFIT 8%
21%
Fat presidents?
Locker-room nudity?
We are a nation ALWAYS / 20%
YES, COMFORTABLE / 44% INTEND TO, BUT RARELY DO / 23%
of multitudes.
DON’T WORK OUT / 44%
8 NO, NOT COMFORTABLE / 54% 4
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Which would
you prefer? This poll was conducted on behalf of CBS News by Social Science Research Solutions
of Media, Pennsylvania, among a random sample of 1,015 adults nationwide, interviewed by
telephone April 9–13, 2014. Some low-percentage answer choices have been omitted.
24 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
3 1 DAY S i n t h e L I F E o f t h e C U LT U R E JULY 2014
SK Y-HIGH
The inspiring talent of Belgian designer
Axel Vervoordt is on display inside this 6,800-square-
foot penthouse atop the Greenwich Hotel—owned
by Robert De Niro, Ira Drukier, and other partners—in
Tribeca, New York City. Vervoordt’s signature
palette of earthy tones, refined taste, and flair for
assembling a mélange of antiques and art make
the recently opened suite one of the most
desirable properties in town. Problem is: you’ll never
want to check out. (thegreenwichhotel.com)
—PUNCH HUT TON
PH OTO GRA P HS © E LL I OTT E RWITT/ MAGNUM PHOTOS ( CA LIFOR NI A, 195 5), BY JOH N MANNO (B O OK S)
heartlessly abandon her years lat- photographer get their close-up in Door (Penguin Press).
er. The sinister side of privilege, Matthew Gavin Frank’s marvel- The former Chicago
female friendship, and desire ous Preparing the Ghost: An Essay Tribune reporter relives
feeds Katie Crouch’s mesmeriz- Concerning the Giant Squid and the year and a half she
ing, torn-from-the-tabloids novel, Its First Photographer (Liveright). spent in Monroeville,
Abroad (Sarah Crichton). Brando Colorful Russian folklore infuses Alabama, riding shotgun
Skyhorse survives being raised by an audaciously dys- Josh Weil’s speculative novel, The Great Glass Sea with Lee, then 78, and
functional grandmother, mother, and fve stepdads, in (Grove). V.F. reporter-researcher Mike Sacks talks shop her sparky 93-year-old
his miraculous Take This Man (Simon & Schuster). John with top comedy writers in Poking a Dead Frog (Penguin). sister, Alice, through
Micklethwait and Adrian Wooldridge target inefective Renegade journalist Andrei Netto joins with Libyan reb- the Deep South, hitting
government as the catalyst for The Fourth Revolution: els in Bringing Down Gaddaf (Palgrave Macmillan). Ian exercise class and
The Global Race to Reinvent the State (Penguin Press). A Falloon and James Mann’s The Art of Ducati (Motor- McDonald’s for coffee,
screwball author vanishes in Alessandro Baricco’s high- books) is a masterwork of Italian motorcycle history. as well as conversing
minded literary mystery novel Mr. Gwyn (McSweeney’s), Novel debuts: Stan Parish transports readers Down about the effect To Kill a
translated by Ann Goldstein. Jeffery Renard Allen’s the Shore (Viking); Lauren Owen sinks her teeth into Mockingbird had on
Song of the Shank (Graywolf) powerfully evokes the life Victorian London’s gothic vein in The Quick (Random their lives, Lee’s
of the 19th-century slave and enigmatic House); Tiphanie Yanique’s Land of Love and Drowning childhood chum Truman
musical savant, Blind Tom. (Riverhead) is a feat of tropical magical realism; Lisa Capote, and whether
From sea to sea, essayist Howorth’s Flying Shoes (Bloomsbury) is the author will write
Sean Wilsey’s haunted by the unsolved murder again. More important
More of her nine-year-old stepbroth- than these answers,
er; and journalist Michael however, is the voice
Hastings’s novel, The Last of Lee
Magazine (Blue Rider), will be herself—
published a year after his death. and her
The storied tradition of the Soviet writer- message,
dissident took a dramatic turn with Boris which
Pasternak and Doctor Zhivago; in The Zhivago we still
Afair (Pantheon), Peter Finn and Petra Couvée need to
reveal that the C.I.A. (which knows the power of a hear.
great story) was secretly behind its publication and —E.S.
dissemination in Russia. Ahhh … — e l i s s a s ch a ppe l l
in short
Dave Eggers sticks to dialogue in Your Fathers, Where Are They? And the Prophets, Do They Live Forever? (Knopf/McSweeney’s).
Elizabeth Mitchell raises Liberty’s Torch (Atlantic Monthly Press). Sarah Payne Stuart grows up Wasp in Perfectly Miserable: Guilt, God and Real Estate in a Small Town
(Riverhead). Laurence Gonzales reconstructs the crash of Flight 232 (Norton). ABCDCS: David Collins Studio (Assouline) catalogues his influences. Lee Grant battles
the blacklist in I Said Yes to Everything (Blue Rider). J. K. Rowling, under the pseudonym Robert Galbraith, spins The Silkworm (Little, Brown). The late C. David Heymann’s Joe
and Marilyn (Atria/Emily Bestler) hits a homer. Florence Muller styles Dior: The Legendary Images (Rizzoli). Megan Abbott spreads The Fever (Little, Brown).
Jojo Moyes entertains in One Plus One (Pamela Dorman).
30 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
Dr. Amy Dr. Macrene
Wechsler Alexiades-Armenakas
he best quick fix is he best treatment option rivaling
still Botox. It can open up one’s eyes plastic surgery today is the ePrime,
and give a rested, relaxed look within a fractional radio-frequency device, which has been shown
days. Thermage is an excellent, non-invasive skin to yield one-third the result of a lower face-lift. The device employs
tightener in lieu of plastic surgery. There’s also hair-like needles that are inserted directly into the deeper layer of skin
Voluma, a hyaluronic-acid filler that lifts as it fills and that release the radio-frequency energy, well known to induce
and re-volumizes cheeks, giving an instantly skin tightening. It is currently the best option for those
more youthful appearance. I like fragrance-free, who wish to tighten and turn back time naturally,
hypoallergenic Cetaphil lotion following in-office without the scars and potential for alteration
procedures, since the skin is more sensitive, of their natural appearance that may occur with
as well as Chanel Hydra Beauty Sérum, which surgical face-lifting. For wound healing, I would
is deeply hydrating and also offers antioxidant recommend Lancôme Absolue L’Extrait, as
protection. (dramywechsler.com) it contains rose native-cell factors. (nyderm.org)
{
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32 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
A R O U N D t h e WO R L D, O N E PA RT Y a t a T I M E JULY 2014
PARTY CAPITAL
Following the White
House Correspondents’ Members of
Association Dinner, the Italian
Questlove Vanity Fair and Bloomberg guard.
and Attorney held a swanky soirée
General at the residence of
Eric Holder the Italian ambassador in
Sofía
Washington, D.C. Vergara
Ronan
Farrow
and
Christine
Lagarde
Joe
Scarborough
Tim Tebow, and Arianna
Robin Richard Sherman, Huffington
Wright Tony Romo, and
Eric Stonestreet
Lindsey
Vonn
Keith
Lieberthal
Nancy and Julianna
Pelosi Margulies Sheherazade
Goldsmith
Tony and Alfonso
PH OTO GRA P HS BY J UST I N BI S HO P ( PE LO SI , Q UEST L OVE , T EB OW,
Cuarón
WI R E IM AGE ( B I SO GN I E RO ) , HA N NA H TH OM SO N ( A L L OT HE RS )
Goldwyn
VE RGA RA , VO N N, WI N KL EVOS S ), DI MI T RI O S KA MB O URI S /
Italian
ambassador
Claudio
Bisogniero
and Governor
Frank Rich Tyler and Chris Christie
and Maureen Cameron
Dowd Winklevoss
Steve
McQueen
JU LY 2 014 VAN IT Y FAIR 37
Questlove,
Lisa Robinson, John
and John Clive Sykes,
McEnroe Davis Irving Tony Debbie
Azoff, Bennett Harry
and Tom
Toni
Freston
Morrison
Annie
Leibovitz
MUSICAL CHAIRS and Lisa
Robinson
Christine
Lake Baranski
Bell
Ronald Perelman
and Ray Kelly
Griffin
Dunne
Fran Lebowitz,
Bill de Blasio, and
Hannah
Chirlane McCray
Stoudemire,
Governor David Ajala,
Andrew and Jada
38 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com Cuomo Stoudemire
‘
W
MICHAEL KINSLEY
hen a govern
ment taxes a certain level of income or in
heritance at a rate of 70 or 80 percent, the pri
mary goal is obviously not to raise additional
revenue᠁ It is rather to put an end to such
incomes and large estates, which lawmakers
have for one reason or another come to regard
as socially unacceptable and economically un
productive.”
Reading Thomas Piketty’s famous book,
Capital in the Twenty-First Century, after all
the fuss about it, is a bit of a shock. It’s both
much more radical and much less radical
than its reputation. The above quotation,
one of many I could have chosen, makes it
sound as if he favors the expropriation
through high taxes on all large fortunes.
ENOUGH ALRE ADY I can’t believe that many of his en
In politics, thusiasts, some of whom have actu
“re-distribution” is ally read the book, agree with that.
a toxic word. I was anticipating a leftwing rant,
But what if . . . ?
but Piketty’s tone is modest and po
lite—not at all what you expect from a
rockstar French intellectual. He modestly
describes his own brainstorm—a 10 percent
global tax on capital—as “a utopian idea.”
He is always qualifying his pronouncements
THE
with the caveat that he could be completely
wrong. (Admittedly, there may be some Gal
lic condescension lurking in passages like
the one where he concedes that “there are a
IMPROBABLE
thousand and one ways to do social science,”
though he happens to prefer using data.)
Piketty and his book remind me of my fa
DREAM
vorite economist, the 19thcentury American
PH OTO GRA P H BY H. A RM STRO NG ROB E RTS/ © CL A S SI CSTO CK /
UNDERESTIMATES OF
you can see, has barely budged. The most af-
fuent ffth has gained 60 percent.
Suppose that you are unpersuaded by assur-
THE PROBLEM. ances that many of the rich are perfectly nice
people and you still have it in for the 1 percent.
Suppose you decide that you are going to really
nail them and take away their entire incomes.
than annual income is, and most of it grows $200,000 (single) or $250,000 (married That would be about $1.5 million each. Then
completely untaxed, year after year, because couple). The so-called Bufett Rule, named you’re going to transfer all the money in equal
you don’t pay taxes on an investment until you after the genial multi-billionaire who noted amounts to everyone else in the economy—the
sell it, which the very richest people never need that he pays a lower tax rate than his secre- 99 percent. How much money would each
to do. They live of the interest. tary, would have raised taxes on anyone mak- household in the 99 percent get?
Growing fnancial inequality can be seen ing more than a million dollars a year, if it had The answer is: about $15,000. That’s
as two separate problems: “The rich get passed Congress, which it didn’t. enough to more than double the incomes of
rich and the poor get poorer,” to quote the I’m all for raising taxes on people mak- those at the bottom of the heap. We might de-
famous song. Or it can be seen as only one ing $250,000 or $1 million. But the median cide to target the money at people who need it
problem, either because less for me means household income in this country is about more—say, the 47 percent of Americans who,
more for you or because you think “the rich $50,000. You can’t achieve serious income re- according to Mitt Romney in the last election,
get rich” is not a problem at all. In fact, it’s distribution if you exempt anyone making less are wards of the government anyway. We could
what American-style capitalism, which has than $250,000 or $1 million. One percent? give each of them $32,000. If we focus on the
served most of us pretty well, is supposed to Forget it. Forget 20 percent (which would be real poor—the bottom 20 percent of income
be all about. Piketty doesn’t buy it. He sees all households above about $100,000). You’re distribution—we could give each household
a dynamic in which the return on capital ex- not serious about income re-distribution unless $75,000.
ceeds the rate of economic growth as an in- you’re prepared to raise taxes on incomes down And suppose we don’t want to destroy the
evitable part of capitalism, one that means the to somewhere near the $50,000 (per house- afuent classes (which we at Vanity Fair cer-
poor can never catch up. hold) national median. Any higher cutof and tainly do not want) and therefore propose a
you’re re-distributing from the rich to the above mere 10-percent-of-income surcharge on the
S
o, what of Piketty’s idea of taxing the average and even the merely afuent, which is a top 20 percent of family incomes, to be spread
world’s biggest fortunes 10 percent dubious accomplishment for economic justice. among the bottom 40 percent (households
every year? It is easy to be in favor of (Arianna agrees with me about this. “Dar- with incomes up to about $40,000). Answer (I
something if it’s completely impossible to ling,” she didn’t say in an exclusive interview think)? About $4,000 per household.
achieve—to dream the impossible dream costs with Vanity Fair, “I just adore paying taxes. This is beginning to sound sort of reason-
you nothing. Your mettle is tested when a goal Give me all your taxes and I will pay them. able, both in its demands on people at the top
is almost impossible. Which category—almost Who said, ‘Taxes are the price we pay for civi- and its generosity to those on the bottom. After
impossible or completely impossible—does lization’? Perhaps I said it. No? Then it must all, the mean income of the top ffth back in
Piketty’s Utopian idea fall into? be one of the ancient Greeks, who were so 1970 was 11 times that of the bottom ffth. To-
From the remarkable reaction in this coun- wise. Well, who is this Oliver Wendell Holmes day it is more like 16 times as much. To restore
try to Piketty’s fairly dense book of translated person? Do I know him? Where does he work that ratio to where it was in 1970 would require
French philosophy, it is evident that many out? Ring him up and ofer him a blog.”) … lemme see here … carry the seven … oh
people believe that a “reset” in the distribution hell. It would require a lot. Not, I suppose, an
L
of income or wealth would be no bad thing. et’s forget about the entire world and impossible amount. But improbable for sure. �
Even more people, who have never heard of just do some back-of-the-envelope cal-
Piketty (because they’ve been trapped in an culations on what the Piketty tax would FROM THE ARCHIVE
elevator for the past few months), believe that look like in the United States. And I begin this For these related stories, visit VF.COM/ARCHIVE
inequality has widened too much. They’re exercise with no idea how it will come out.
• The 1 percent vs. the rest of us
right, but what to do? At one point Piketty says A 10 percent tax on all capital is essentially
(Joseph E. Stiglitz, May 2011)
that more government services for all, paid for slow-motion expropriation, since the average
• American-style capitalism in twilight?
by taxing the rich, is in efect re-distribution, investor makes less than 10 percent on his or (Joseph E. Stiglitz, July 2009)
but let’s think of re-distribution, for now, as her investments. Suppose—with extreme opti-
42 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
BOOKS
BIRD IN HAND
Clockwise from far
left: The Goldfnch, 1654,
by Carel Fabritius;
Donna Tartt in New York,
April 2013; Tartt’s novel
The Goldfnch.
IT’S TARTT—
BUT IS IT ART?
No one denies that Donna Tartt has written the “It novel” of the year, a runaway
H
best-seller that won her the Pulitzer Prize. But some of the self-appointed high priests
of literary criticism—at The New Yorker, The New York Review of Books,
Ô
and The Paris Review—are deeply dismayed by The Goldfinch and its success
By E V G E N I A P E R E T Z
PH OTO GRA P HS : CL O CK WI SE F RO M L EF T, BY MA RCO SE CCH I/ GE TT Y
I MAG ES , © BE OW ULF SHE E HA N /COR B I S, BY J O HN MA N NO
ave you read The Goldfnch yet?” Consider it the cocktail-party conversation starter of 2014,
the new “Are you watching Breaking Bad?” Eleven years in the making, 784 pages long, the
book has re-ignited the cult of Donna Tartt, which began in 1992 with her sensational debut
novel, The Secret History. When The Goldfnch came out, last fall, recipients of advance cop-
ies promptly showed of their galleys on Instagram, as if announcing the birth of a child. Her
readings sold out instantly. New York’s Frick Collection, which in October began exhibiting
the painting for which the book was named, hadn’t seen so much trafc in years. The novel
is already on its way to becoming a movie, or a TV series, made by the producers of The
Hunger Games. It’s been on the New York Times best-seller list for seven months, sold a mil-
lion and a half print and digital copies, and drawn a cornucopia of rave reviews, including
one in the daily New York Times and another in the Sunday New York Times Book Review. In
April it won the Pulitzer Prize for fction, the judges of which praised it as “a book that
44 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
BOOKS
stimulates the mind and touches the heart.” are king and real book reviewing has all but fnch lead to the long-debated questions: What
It’s also gotten some of the severest pans in vanished. The Goldfnch a “rapturous” sym- makes a work literature, and who gets to decide?
memory from the country’s most important phony? Not so fast, they say. The questions are as old as fction itself.
critics and sparked a full-on debate in which “Its tone, language, and story belong in The history of literature is flled with books
the naysayers believe that nothing less is at children’s literature,” wrote critic James Wood, now considered masterpieces that were
stake than the future of reading itself. in The New Yorker. He found a book stufed thought hackwork in their time. Take Dickens,
For the few uninitiated, The Goldfinch with relentless, far-fetched plotting; cloying the greatest novelist of the Victorian period,
is a sprawling bildungsroman centered on stock characters; and an overwrought mes- whose mantle writers from John Irving to Tom
13-year-old Theo Decker, whose world is vio- sage tacked on at the end as a plea for serious- Wolfe to Tartt have sought to inherit. Henry
lently turned upside down when, on a trip to ness. “Tartt’s consoling message, blared in the James called Dickens the greatest of superf-
the Metropolitan Museum of Art, a terror- book’s fnal pages, is that what will survive of cial novelists … “We are aware that this def-
ist bomb goes of, killing his mother, among us is great art, but this seems an anxious com- nition confnes him to an inferior rank in the
other bystanders. At the behest of a dying old pensation, as if Tartt were unconsciously ac- department of letters which he adorns; but we
man, he makes of with a painting—the 1654 knowledging that the 2013 ‘Goldfnch’ might accept this consequence of our proposition.
Carel Fabritius masterpiece, The Goldfinch. not survive the way the 1654 ‘Goldfinch’ It were, in our opinion, an ofence against hu-
For the next 14 years and 700 pages, the paint- has.” Days after she was awarded the Pulitzer, manity to place Mr. Dickens among the great-
ing becomes both his burden and the only Wood told Vanity Fair, “I think that the rap- est novelists. He has added nothing to our
connection to his lost mother, while he’s fung ture with which this novel has been received is understanding of human character.” Many
from New York to Las Vegas to Amsterdam, further proof of the infantilization of our liter- future ofenses against humanity would follow:
encountering an array of eccentric characters, ary culture: a world in which adults go around “It isn’t worth any adult reader’s atten-
from the hard-living but soulful Russian teen- reading Harry Potter.” tion,” The New York Times pronounced con-
ager Boris to the cultured and kindly furniture In The New York Review of Books, novel- cerning Nabokov’s Lolita.
restorer Hobie, who becomes a stand-in father, ist and critic Francine Prose wrote that, for “Kind of monotonous,” the same paper
to the mysterious, waif-like Pippa, plus assort- all the frequent descriptions of the book as said about Salinger’s The Catcher in the Rye.
ed lowlifes, con men, Park Avenue recluses, “Dickensian,” Tartt demonstrates little of “He should’ve cut out a lot about these jerks
and dissolute preppies. Dickens’s remarkable powers of descrip- and all at that crumby school.”
Michiko Kakutani, the chief New York tion and graceful language. She culled both “An absurd story,” announced The Satur-
Times book reviewer for 31 years (and herself what she considered lazy clichés (“Theo’s day Review of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great
a Pulitzer winner, in criticism), called it “a high school friend Tom’s cigarette is ‘only Gatsby, while the New York Herald Tribune
glorious Dickensian novel, a novel that pulls the tip of the iceberg.’ … The bomb site declared it “a book of the season only.”
together all [Tartt’s] remarkable storytelling is a ‘madhouse’ ”) and passages that were
T
talents into a rapturous, symphonic whole. “bombastic, overwritten, marred by bafing hat said, for all the snooty pans of
It’s a work that shows us how many emotional turns of phrase.” “Reading The Goldfnch,” books now considered classics, there
octaves Ms. Tartt can now reach, how seam- Prose concluded, “I found myself wondering, have been, conversely, plenty of au-
lessly she can combine the immediate and ‘Doesn’t anyone care how something is writ- thors who were once revered as literary mira-
tactile with more wide-angled concerns.” Ac- ten anymore?’ ” Across the pond, the highly cles and are now relegated to the trash heap.
cording to best-selling phenomenon Stephen regarded London Review of Books likened it Sir Walter Scott, for example, was considered
King, who reviewed it for The New York Times to a “children’s book” for adults. London’s perhaps the pre-eminent writer of his time.
Book Review, “ ‘The Goldfnch’ is a rarity that Sunday Times concluded that “no amount Now his work, reverential as it is to concepts
of rank and chivalry, seems fairly ridiculous.
Margaret Mitchell’s Civil War blockbuster,
“TARTT CREATED
Gone with the Wind, won the Pulitzer and
inspired comparisons to Tolstoy, Dickens,
and Thomas Hardy. Now it’s considered a
B
ut, in the literary world, there are most prestigious literary journal in America. deliberately staying out of touch with your
those who profess to be higher brows “It coats everything in a cozy patina of ‘liter- own culture?”—and to ask why they made it
still than The New York Times—the ary’ gentility.” Who cares that Kakutani or “a point of pride” never to have read anything
secret rooms behind the frst inner sanctum, King gave it the stamp of approval: “Nowa- by such best-selling authors as John Grisham,
consisting, in part, of The New Yorker, The days, even The New York Times Book Re- Tom Clancy, and Mary Higgins Clark. Har-
New York Review of Books, and The Paris Re- view is afraid to say when a popular book is old Bloom, the most fnicky of fnicky literary
view, three institutions that are considered, at crap,” Stein says. critics, went into a tizzy, calling the founda-
least among their readers, the last bastions of No novel gets uniformly enthusiastic re- tion’s decision to give the award to King “an-
true discernment in a world where book sales views, but the polarized responses to The Gold- other low in the process of dumbing down our
46 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
BOOKS
cultural life” and the recipient “an immensely or be asphyxiated.” (Mailer and Wolfe had a novels have, shall we say, emotional difcul-
inadequate writer on a sentence-by-sentence, history: Mailer had once remarked, “There ties.” Curtis Sittenfeld, the best-selling and
paragraph-by-paragraph, book-by-book basis.” is something silly about a man who wears acclaimed author of Prep and American Wife,
Bloom’s fussing had little impact. King was a white suit all the time, especially in New similarly observes that critics derive “a satisfac-
already on his way to the modern canon—his York,” to which Wolfe replied, “The lead dog tion in knocking a book of its pedestal.”
essays and short stories had been published in is the one they always try to bite in the ass.”) It’s a theory that holds appeal for authors
The New Yorker—and thus he was now in the Irving said that reading A Man in Full “is like who feel they’ve been unfairly ignored by
position to announce who he thought was gar- reading a bad newspaper or a bad piece in a critics, and it can lead to surprising, some
bage: James Patterson. “I don’t like him,” King magazine. It makes you wince.” He added might even say contorted, rationales. Jennifer
said after accepting a lifetime-achievement that on any given page out of Wolfe he could Weiner, the outspoken mega-selling author
award from the Canadian Booksellers As- “read a sentence that would make me gag.” of such “women’s books” as In Her Shoes,
sociation in 2007. “I don’t respect his books, Wolfe later struck back. “It’s a wonderful Good in Bed, and Best Friends Forever, theo-
because every one is the same.” To which Pat-
terson later replied, “Doesn’t make too much
sense. I’m a good dad, a nice husband. My
only crime is I’ve sold millions of books.” “A BOOK LIKE THE GOLDFINCH
War of Words DOESN’T UNDO ANY
I CLICHÉS—
n the long war over membership in the
pantheon of literary greatness, no battle
had quite the comical swagger of the
ambush of Tom Wolfe after the publication IT DEALS IN THEM,” SAYS
of his 1998 novel, A Man in Full, which be-
came a call to arms for three literary lions: THE PARIS REVIEW’S LORIN STEIN.
Norman Mailer, John Updike, and John Ir-
ving. As the English newspaper The Guard-
ian gleefully reported, they were adamant tantrum,” he said. “A Man in Full panicked rizes that Wood’s review may have been a re-
that Wolfe belonged not in the canon but on [Irving] the same way it frightened John Up- sponse to the public’s tepid reception of The
airport-bookstore shelves (between Danielle dike and Norman. Frightened them. Panicked Woman Upstairs, by his wife, Claire Messud.
Steel and Susan Powter’s Stop the Insanity). them.” Updike and Mailer were “two old piles “[Messud’s] writing was gorgeous. It was like
Updike, in his New Yorker review, concluded of bones.” As for Irving, “Irving is a great ad- beautiful carpentry. Everything ft. Everything
that A Man in Full “still amounts to entertain- mirer of Dickens. But what writer does he see worked. There wasn’t a single metaphor or
ment, not literature, even literature in a mod- now constantly compared to Dickens? Not simile or comparison you could pull out and
est aspirant form.” Mailer, writing in The New John Irving, but Tom Wolfe … It must gnaw say, ‘This doesn’t work,’ the way you can with
York Review of Books, compared reading the at him terribly.” The Goldfnch. But not many people read that
novel to having sex with a 300-pound woman: book. The world doesn’t think what she’s
“Once she gets on top it’s all over. Fall in love The book of my enemy has been doing is as worthy as what Tartt is doing.”
remaindered
F
And I am pleased. rom the beginning, Tartt’s work con-
In vast quantities it has been fused critics. When The Secret His-
remaindered tory, about an erudite group of classics
Like a van-load of counterfeit that majors who turn to murder at a small New
has been seized England college, was published, in 1992, it
was greeted with a kind of wonder by writ-
So begins the Australian critic ers, critics, and readers—not just because its
and essayist Clive James’s poem author was a mysterious, tiny package from
about the writer’s best friends, Greenwood, Mississippi, who dressed in
Schadenfreude and his twin brother, crisp tailored suits and revealed little about
Envy. Leon Wieseltier, the longtime herself, but because few could place it on the
literary editor of The New Republic commercial-literary continuum. Lev Gross-
(where James Wood was a senior man, the book reviewer for Time and author
editor before moving to The New of the best-selling fantasy series The Magicians,
Yorker), suggests there might just recalls, “You couldn’t classify it easily into high
be a smidge of this at work in the literature or genre fction. It seemed to come
criticism leveled against Tartt. from some other literary universe, where those
“Tartt has managed to do categories didn’t exist. And it made me want
HOMICIDIUM, something that almost to go to that universe because it was so com-
SHE WROTE never happens: she pelling.” Jay McInerney, who’d had a splashy
Tartt in Paris, 1993, has created a serious debut similar to Tartt’s a few years earlier with
PH OTO GRA P H © A DI N E SAGA LY N
the year after novel—whether you Bright Lights, Big City, and became friends
her breakout debut
like the book or not, it with her early on, recalls, “I loved it on many
with The Secret
History. is not frivolous, or tacky levels, not least because it’s a literary murder
or cynical—and made it mystery, but also because it initiates the reader
into a cultural phenomenon. from the outset into a secret club, which is
When a serious novel breaks out, probably what every good novel should do.”
some authors of other serious In recent years it has been discovered by new
48 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
BOOKS
readers such as Lena Dunham (creator of Eugenides, Marilynne Robinson, Michael need.” Ultimately, he thinks, the success of
HBO’s Girls), who found in Tartt not only this Cunningham, and Lydia Davis.) Determin- The Goldfnch is a step in the right direction.
cool persona—“She reminded me, style-wise, ing what’s serious literature isn’t a science, “When I look at the fiction best-seller list,
of my mother’s radical-feminist photographer says Galassi, who hasn’t yet read The Gold- which is mainly an inventory of junk, and
friends in the 80s”—but a master of the tight- finch. The response isn’t fully rationalized, I see a book like this riding high, I think it’s
group-of-friends tradition. but ultimately a book must be “convincing in good news, even if it is not The Ambassadors.”
It took 10 years for Tartt to come out some way. It can be emotionally convincing,
I
with her next book, The Little Friend, but it can be intellectually convincing, it can be ndeed, we might ask the snobs, What’s
it was a disappointment to both critics and politically convincing. Hopefully it’s all those the big deal? Can’t we all just agree that
readers. Was she a one-hit wonder? To prove things. But with someone like Donna Tartt, it’s great she spent all this time writing a
otherwise she spent the next 11 years, head not everyone is convinced on all levels.” big enjoyable book and move on? No, we can-
down, spinning the adventures of Theo To Grossman, this slavish devotion to re- not, say the stalwarts. Francine Prose, who
Decker, going down byways for as long ality is retrograde, and perhaps reviewers like took on the high-school canon—Maya An-
as eight months that she would ultimately Wood should not be reviewing people gelou, Harper Lee, Ray Bradbury—in a con-
abandon. After the disappointment of her like Tartt in the first place. “A critic like troversial Harper’s essay, “I Know Why the
last book, everything was on the line. Wood—whom I admire probably as much Caged Bird Cannot Read,” argued that hold-
The verdict among her fans? Perhaps too or more than any other book reviewer work- ing up weak books as examples of excellence
long in parts, but the story was as gripping ing—doesn’t have the critical language you promotes mediocrity and turns young readers
as ever. She is “the consummate storyteller,” need to praise a book like The Goldfnch. of forever. With The Goldfnch she felt duty-
says Grossman, who is a new voice leading The kinds of things that the book does par- bound in the same way. “Everyone was say-
the charge that certain works of genre fction ticularly well don’t lend themselves to literary ing this is such a great book and the language
should be considered literature. “The narra- analysis. Her language is careless in places, was so amazing. I felt I had to make quite a
tive thread is one you just can’t gather up fast and there’s a fairy-tale quality to the book. case against it,” she says. It gave her some
enough,” he explains. There’s very little context in the book—it’s satisfaction, she reports, that after her Gold-
happening in some slightly simplifed world. fnch review came out she received one e-mail
How Fiction Works Which to me is fine. I find that intensely telling her that the book was a masterpiece
‘T
here seems to be universal agreement compelling in a novel. Every novel dispenses and she had missed the point, and about 200
that the book is a ‘good read,’ ” says with something, and Tartt dispenses with from readers thanking her for telling them
Wood. “But you can be a good sto- that.” As for Francine Prose’s query that they were not alone. Similarly, Stein, who
ryteller, which in some ways Tartt clearly is, “Doesn’t anyone care how a book is written struggles to keep strong literary voices alive
{
and still not be a serious storyteller—where, anymore?”: Grossman admits that, with and robust, sees a
of course, ‘serious’ does not mean the exclu- story now king for readers, the answer is no. book like The Gold- @vf.com
T H E B E ST BAD
sion of the comic, or the joyful, or the excit- Wood agrees that that’s the state of things, finch standing in the R EV IEW S OF
ing. Tartt’s novel is not a serious one—it tells but fnds it sad and preposterous. “This is way. “What worries GR E AT B O O KS .
a fantastical, even ridiculous tale, based on something peculiar to fction: imagine a lit- me is that people who GO TO V F.C O M/
JU LY2 0 14 .
absurd and improbable premises.” erary world in which most people didn’t read only one or two
For Wood’s crowd the measuring stick care how a poem was written!” (Tartt was books a year will plunk down their money for
in determining what’s serious literature is a not available to comment, but Jay Mc- The Goldfnch, and read it, and tell themselves
sense of reality, of authenticity—and it’s pos- Inerney says she doesn’t read reviews, and they like it, but deep down will be profoundly
bored, because they aren’t children, and will
quietly give up on the whole enterprise when,
in fact, fction—realistic fction, old or new—is
CRITICS DERIVE “A SATISFACTION IN as alive and gripping as it’s ever been.”
The
52
NEXT
VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
SHAILENE WOODLEY
Hometown: Simi Valley, California. Age: 22.
Up next: The Fault in Our Stars, with
Ansel Elgort. Favorite sneakers: Vibram FiveFingers.
Favorite movie to watch with
parents: “Y Tu Mamá También or FernGully.”
Favorite jeans: Overalls.
Last TV binge watch: Top Chef.
F OR C RE DI TS, TU RN TO PAGE 113
WAVE JU LY 2 014
ST Y L E D BY JESSICA DIEHL 53
I
earned $145 million and will spin of three more. This month,
Woodley will carry another much-anticipated flm, The Fault in
Our StarsÑbased on John Green’s beloved young-adult novel,
which has been on the New York Times best-seller list for more
than 120 weeks—into cineplexes worldwide. The preview is the
most-liked trailer in the history of YouTube.
“Shai,” as she is called by her friends and family, grew up in
Simi Valley, California (home of the Ronald Reagan Presidential
Library), and started acting at around age fve. “But it took a long
time,” she remembers. “I had 500 nos before I had one yes—and it
was a Honda commercial.” She went on to star in about 40 com-
mercials before landing her frst lead role, in the ABC Family televi-
sion series The Secret Life of the American Teenager, in 2008. (In the
meantime, Woodley was diagnosed with scoliosis. “I wore a back
brace 18 hours a day for two years straight,” she says.)
An even bigger break came when, after an exhaustive search, di-
rector Alexander Payne cast her as George Clooney’s daughter in
the Oscar-winning The Descendants. The part earned Woodley a
Film Independent Spirit Award and a Golden Globe nomination
for best supporting actress. At frst, Woodley wasn’t sure she was
ready for her newfound success and mused aloud about quitting
acting to become an herbalist, exploring her interest in medicinal
plants. “Somebody came to me and said, ‘I can’t wait to see what
you do next.’ I took that as pressure—that I had to live up to some-
body else’s expectations,” she recalls. “There were a few months
where I was like, ‘I don’t want to act anymore.’ And then I got
over it and realized it’s none of my business what other people
think of me.”
f you ever lose your way The other big takeaway Woodley got from her frst flm was Cloo-
in the hills above Los Angeles, or elsewhere, you’ll want Shailene ney himself. “He has been an angel in my life for many reasons,”
Woodley by your side. “See all of that beautiful stuf?” the 22-year- she says of Hollywood’s perennial Everyman. She credits the actor
old actress says, pointing at a patch of green vegetation just of the for reafrming everything she was taught to believe in. “He knew
hiking trail in Fryman Canyon Park. “It’s called miner’s lettuce. If everyone’s name on set,” she says. “He treated everyone as an equal
you’re ever stranded in the wild, you can eat all of that.” and everyone got his warmth.”
Dressed in a white T-shirt and high-waisted skinny jeans, with a The admiration is mutual. “Shailene can do whatever she
cell phone tucked into her back pocket, Woodley would look like wants,” Clooney says. “If she wants to be a movie star, she has it.
any other millennial were it not for her perfectly lithe fgure, her If she wants to change the world, she will. Her talent and kindness
increasingly famous face, and, perhaps, her choice of water con- go hand in hand.”
D
tainer. In lieu of a designer bottle, Woodley clutches a glass Mason
jar. She stops to admire the vistas and picks up bits of trash left espite her chosen profession, Woodley didn’t
behind by other hikers—a plastic cap, a wrapper—and squeezes grow up in front of the television or watching
them into the pockets of her jeans. movies. “My parents were like, ‘Great, we have
Woodley isn’t your average twentysomething starlet. She’s part a free weekend. Let’s go camping!’ So I grew up
of a new breed, epitomized by Jennifer Lawrence, who pride them- outdoors, not really ever sitting on the couch.”
selves on, well, being themselves. But whereas Lawrence is the en- Woodley’s parents are psychologists who work
dearingly clumsy southern gal, Woodley is like a forest sprite who in education, and she credits them with giving her perspective on
might be doing something more wholesome with her life if flmmak- the constant disappointment that comes with being an actor. “I
ers weren’t so eager to give her one starring role after another. never saw it as rejection,” she says. “I saw it as an opportunity to
Hollywood was built on the backs of young actresses, from Shir- get better. Also, I learned over time that it obviously has to do with
ley Temple to Judy Garland to Elizabeth Taylor and beyond, but your acting, but it has a lot to do with luck.” Her parents divorced
today’s generation has to contend with a media environment that when she was 15; she remains close to them and to her brother, Tan-
is far more complicated—and precarious—than the ones the studio ner, 20, who briefy dabbled in acting and is now in college.
chiefs of the 20th century manipulated for their own purposes. In Woodley’s grandmother, a practitioner of alternative medicine,
an era when any false move can be broadcast by one fan to millions provided another kind of perspective: it was she who initiated her
of others in the blink of an eye, authenticity isn’t just a pose—it’s a granddaughter’s commitment to Mother Earth and health. “She
requirement. kind of opened my mind to it,” Woodley says. “And then when I
Like Lawrence, whose frst two Hunger Games movies have was 14, it was a really windy Southern California day, and I looked
grossed a combined $800 million, Woodley has her own post- up and the pine needles were swirling in the air and it was gorgeous.
apocalyptic young-adult franchise, Divergent, based on the best- I looked down and there was all this trash swirling around. I was
selling series of novels by the 25-year-old writer Veronica Roth. like, ‘Do I want to be a part of that beautiful pine-needle world or
The first installment, which came out in March, has already this really tragic trash scene on the foor?’ ”
54 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
“If Clooney
she wants to change the world,”
says, “she will. Her talent
and kindness go hand in hand.
”
However committed Woodley is to saving the world one pine At her audition the next morning, the director says, “she was the
needle at a time, and she is very committed, she realizes that not character Hazel. She wasn’t at all the girl I had met the night before,
everyone wants to hear about it. “As much as this industry is a but over the course of getting to know her she is exactly who she is.
platform for talking about big issues, there’s also so many fuckin’ I had forgotten how idealistic you can be in your 20s. I’m cynical,
issues. You could talk about Russia, or Argentina, or fracking, or and she is really inspiring because she is so not.”
G.M.O.’s. Maybe the only thing that I’m supposed to do is just Anybody who has ever come into contact with Shai knows that
show up and be me in every moment. Because I do feel like one she is a hugger. A friend honked and stopped as we were coming
of my gifts is to be open and lovely—simple things like smiling at down the trail, and she leaned into the car and gave him a hug. Af-
strangers and having kind, small interactions. I think that is what’s ter our hike she was recognized by a teenage boy skateboarding in
going to ultimately shift things.” the parking lot—she gave him a hug. Before she met me she was at
I
Walt Disney Studios having a meeting, and I’m sure she gave every-
t has been a fast ride since The Descendants. There was body there hugs, too. That’s who she is.
last year’s Sundance-award-winning hit The Spectacular I ask John Green, who spent a lot of time with Woodley dur-
Now. There was flming the action-packed Divergent, in ing the flming of The Fault in Our Stars, if he is concerned about
which Woodley appears in every scene. There was another her openness. “I think everyone who cares about her can’t imag-
Sundance Film Festival appearance in January, in Gregg ine her not being that person,” he says. “But so far she seems to
Araki’s dramatic thriller White Bird in a Blizzard, which handle it all with great grace.”
Magnolia Pictures will release later this year. “She has a calmness to her that I would have paid to have at her
Then there was The Amazing Spiderman 2. Woodley played age and an air of stability,” says her Divergent co-star Kate Winslet.
Mary Jane Watson (Spiderman’s romantic interest, played by “This is a woman who can cope. She is quietly prepared and un-
Kirsten Dunst in the frst Spiderman trilogy), but the character was complaining. She can navigate rough waters if there are any, and
ultimately cut from the sprawling flm. “For a few hours it was liter- she will come out the other side smiling, hugging everyone, which
ally like, ‘Oh, my God, was I awful? Why did they cut me? What is genuine, too, by the way. And most importantly, she will be ex-
are people going to think?’ I woke up the next morning and I was actly the same girl—acting up a storm, taking risks, and giving the
like, ‘O.K., it makes total sense.’ I’m a pretty spiritual person, so next generation a great new role model to be inspired by.”
I can just sit back and trust that everything happens for a reason, As for her male co-stars, Woodley considers herself lucky not to
even if my ego doesn’t like it.” have had to work with any, as she puts it, “dicks.” “You can just
She also didn’t have time to obsess about it. During a recent really relate to her, and you can see somebody you know in that
break from filming Insurgent—the second installment of the Di- girl,” says Miles Teller, Woodley’s co-star in both The Spectacular
vergent series, due out in 2015—she found herself couch-surfng at Now and Divergent. “That’s why Shailene’s so good. She’s just like
friends’ homes. “I’ve been in this place in life where I don’t want to a positive energy force that’s very infectious.” Ansel Elgort, in a
own anything,” she says. “I got rid of almost everything except what role certain to make teenage girls swoon, co-stars as her amputee
would ft into a carry-on suitcase.” boyfriend in The Fault in Our Stars, and he was also, in a tricky hur-
The Fault in Our Stars, which took Woodley to Amsterdam dle for the producers, her brother in Divergent. Nonetheless, faintly
(where she had gone backpacking at 18) and to Pittsburgh, is a echoing the pairings of the Old Hollywood star system, their chem-
beautiful modern love story about two teenagers, Hazel and Gus, istry is electric and undeniable. “She’s just so present and there and
with a heartbreaking twist. Director Josh Boone says, “I told the just real,” Elgort says. “So it’s pretty easy to just work of of her.”
studio it’s like Titanic, except the iceberg is cancer.” I ask Woodley, who is single, if she ever would date a fellow ac-
Woodley was so moved by Green’s novel—which has sold tor. “I’m never going to say never. I love acting, but I also really
seven million copies worldwide and has been translated into 46 love nature and most actors don’t want to get dirty.” Although
languages—that she reached out to the author directly. “She wrote Woodley isn’t frequently out and about with other actors her
me a long—very long—e-mail before the movie rights even sold,” age, she does share a special camaraderie with Teller. “I look at
Green says. “I remember being sort of overwhelmed by it, be- Miles and, like, I’m sort of Julia Roberts in the same way she is to
cause it was so long and so positive, and she was so relentless in George. Their relationship I could see being our relationship in 20
her certainty that she should play Hazel.” years, and that really is special.”
Woodley also made an unusual impression on the director. “She The last word on Woodley comes from the male co-star who
was such a strange, interesting person,” Boone says of his frst en- perhaps knows her best. “We’ll be talking about Shailene 40 years
counter with the actress. “She talks about health and is really pas- from now,” Clooney says. “I’ve never seen anyone so young that
sionate about what she believes; I wasn’t sure what to make of her.” has so much together.”
JU LY 2 014 www.vanityfair.com VA NIT Y FAIR 55
} }
THE
N EXT
WAVE
BELLA
THORNE
Hometown:
Pembroke Pines, Florida.
Age: 16. Up next:
Alexander and the Terrible,
ODEYA RUSH Horrible, No Good,
Hometown: Haifa, Very Bad Day. Twitter or
Israel. Age: 17. Instagram: “Ooh,
Up next: The Giver, that’s difficult. I can’t choose
with Meryl Streep. between my babies.”
iPhone or Samsung: Last concert: Jay Z and
“iPhone. Samsungs Kanye West. First
are huge and don’t fit headshot: Age three.
in girls’ pockets.” Secret talent:
Favorite movie to “Tongue tricks.” Miley
watch with parents: or Taylor: Miley.
Apocalypse Now.
Dream car: Ford
Escape. Siblings:
Six brothers (including
two sets of boy twins).
Miley Cyrus
or Taylor Swift:
Taylor.
F O R CR ED ITS , T URN TO PAG E 113
56
JOSH WIGGINS DAYO OKENIYI
Hometown: Houston. Age: 15. Up next: Hometown: Lagos, Nigeria. Age: 25.
Lost in the Sun, with Josh Duhamel. Up next: Terminator: Genesis, with
WhatsApp or SMS: ÒMy brother is Arnold Schwarzenegger. Favorite app:
in South Korea, in the military, Twitter. Last album downloaded:
so I use WhatsApp.Ó Last album Mastermind, by Rick Ross.
downloaded: Mechanical Bull, Favorite movie to watch with
by Kings of Leon. parents: The Sound of Music.
TYE SHERIDAN
Hometown:
Palestine, Texas. Age:
17. Up next: Dark
Places, with Charlize
Theron. iPhone
or Samsung: iPhone.
Last concert:
ÒI went to see Snoop
Dogg with Nicolas
Cage.Ó Favorite jeans:
LeviÕs. Justin
Bieber or Harry
Styles: Bieber.
Guilty-pleasure
song: ÒWe,Ó
by the Roches.
DYLAN O’BRIEN
Hometown: Springfield,
New Jersey.
Age: 22. Up next: The
Maze Runner,
“
with Will Poulter. Last
Mamma Mia!
TV binge watch:
Brooklyn Nine-Nine.
Last concert: Coldplay
is really fire. My
at the Hollywood
Bowl. Favorite
sneakers: Old-school
”
watch with parents:
Abba people.
Nymphomaniac:
Vol. I. Guilty-
pleasure song:
ÒWrecking Ball,Ó
by Miley Cyrus. — DAYO O K E N I Y I
JADEN SMITH
Hometown: Calabasas,
California. Age: 16.
Up next: The Karate Kid 2, with
Jackie Chan. Twitter or
Instagram: “If I can stay off
of both, I will.” Favorite movie
to watch with parents:
Mr. Peabody & Sherman. Last
song downloaded:
“Cool Water,” by Jaden Smith.
Favorite jeans: “I don’t
like jeans. I like drop-crotch
pants because jeans
are restricting to my legs.”
WILLOW SMITH
Hometown: Calabasas, California. Age: 13.
Big break: I Am Legend. Twitter or Instagram:
Twitter. Favorite shoes: Dr. Martens.
Favorite movie to watch with parents: “Feminist
documentaries.” Starbucks order:
Cotton-candy Frappuccino with extra whipped cream.
Dream car: Matte forest-green Jeep.
58 VANIT Y FA I R JU LY 2014
crush on
not afraid
BEN SCHNETZER
Hometown:
New York City. Age: 24.
Up next: Warcraft,
with Paula Patton.
Favorite reality show:
Dog the Bounty Hunter.
Last TV binge
watch: Six Feet Under.
Favorite movie
to watch with parents:
Dances with Wolves.
Miley Cyrus or Taylor
Swift: “Oh,
God. Joanna Newsom.”
Justin Bieber or Harry
MAIKA MONROE Styles: “Um,
Eddie Vedder?”
Hometown: Santa Barbara, California. Age: 20.
Up next: The Guest, with Dan Stevens.
Last song downloaded: Anything by
Blood Orange. Twitter or Instagram: Instagram.
Secret talent: Kiteboarding. Person she’d
like to meet: Jack Nicholson. Justin Bieber W ILL PO U LTER
or Harry Styles: “Harry Styles. Duh.” Hometown: London.
Age: 21. Up next:
The Maze Runner, with OLIVIA COOKE
Dylan O’Brien. Hometown: Manchester, England.
Last selfie: “Just now. Age: 20. Up next: Ouija, a thriller from
I was wearing a do-rag.” Universal. Last TV binge watch:
Favorite jeans: Top of the Lake. Favorite jeans: Rag &
Givenchy. Favorite Bone. Starbucks order: “Vanilla
sneakers: “Retro Jordan latte—full fat.” Person she’d like to
5s in varsity red meet: Kate Winslet. Favorite reality show:
and black.” Dream car: The Real Housewives of New Jersey.
Aston Martin DB9.
Person he’d like to
meet: Jay Z.
LILY J AMES
Hometown: London. Age: 25. Up next: The lead in
Cinderella, with Cate Blanchett. Favorite app:
Cycle Planner. Last TV binge watch: Breaking Bad.
Starbucks order: Black coffee. Favorite
sneakers: Converse. Miley Cyrus or Taylor Swift:
Miley. Can’t live without on set: A book.
JU LY 2014
} }
THE
N EXT
WAVE
JACK KILMER
Hometown: Los Angeles. Age: 18. Big break:
Gia Coppola’s Palo Alto. Favorite app:
“Touchgrind. You get to skateboard with your fingers.”
Last TV binge watch: Twin Peaks. Person
he’d like to meet: Queen Elizabeth II.
Favorite sneakers: Superga. Favorite reality-TV
star: “Bret Michaels. No question.”
F O R CR ED ITS , T URN TO PAG E 113
EVE HEWSON
Hometown: Dublin, Ireland. Age: 22.
Up next: The Knick, on Cinemax. Pets: “I have
a roommate. He’s kind of like a pet.” iPhone
or Samsung: iPhone. Beauty secret: Coconut oil.
Favorite reality-TV star: Khloé Kardashian.
Favorite candy: Skittles. Last song downloaded:
“Stay with Me,” by Sam Smith.
{
@vf.com
FO R V I D EO O F
SH A IL EN E ,
W ILLOW, J A D EN ,
A ND T HE GA N G
GO TO V F. CO M /
JU LY2 0 1 4 .
62 VA NI T Y FA I R JU LY 2014
ZOEY DEUTCH
Hometown: Studio City, California. Age: 19.
Big break: Ringer, on the CW.
Last selfie: “Right now, to check if I had red lipstick on
my teeth.” Last song downloaded:
“Fancy,” by Iggy Azalea. Favorite movie to watch
with parents: Anchorman. Starbucks order:
Tall iced two-pump hazelnut latte.
Person she’d like to meet: Hillary Clinton.
“I dress
pretty much
like a nine-
year-old boy. ”
F O R CR ED ITS , T URN TO PAG E 113
—EVE HEWSON
JACK REYNOR
Hometown: Dublin, Ireland. Age: 22. Up
next: Transformers: Age of Extinction,
with Mark Wahlberg. Favorite app: Sleep Cycle.
Last TV binge watch: Life’s Too Short. Favorite
sneakers: Nike Air Max. Dream car:
Classic Rolls-Royce Phantom. Favorite jeans: Levi’s.
Can’t live without on set: “My fiancée.”
“ Seeing
Die Hard
when I was six
was a kick up
the arse.
— JAC K R E Y N O R
” DOUGLAS BOOTH
Hometown: London. Age: 21. Up next: Jupiter
Ascending, with Mila Kunis. Twitter or
F O R CR EDI TS , T URN TO PAGE 113
T
solicitor general under George W. Bush. His
journey in defense of same-sex marriage was
never going to be straightforward.
Ted spoke in a rich baritone which com-
manded attention. Republican friends found
his decision hard to swallow. He himself
had been initially wary—until he met one
same-sex couple in particular and felt their
pain in the face of discrimination. He used
that word, “pain,” several times. I remem-
hey are America’s ber, too, his closing argument: “These are
odd couple: two superlawyers, one Demo- people who want to participate in life as
cratic, the other Republican, who teamed up citizens the way the rest of us do.”
to overturn Proposition 8, California’s ban David’s account was more matter-of-
on same-sex marriage, in a Supreme Court fact: dispassionate analysis mixed with
ruling which made civil-rights history. remorseless logic and a famed iron will.
David Boies and Theodore B. “Ted” This is the man who overcame dyslexia to
Olson are living proof that bipartisanship become one of the top trial lawyers in the
is not (yet) dead and buried in Washing- country, the successful defender of CBS in
ton. Back in 2000, they faced of in Bush the Westmoreland libel case, the scourge
v. Gore, which decided the election. Nine of Microsoft, and a noted philanthropist,
years later, they set aside their party al- who has endowed nine chairs at universi-
legiances in favor of a common principle: ties from N.Y.U. to Yale.
that equal rights for gays and lesbians to Somehow David and Ted have found
marry was not a liberal or conservative is- time in their packed schedules to write
sue. It was a basic human-rights issue. their story in a new book—Redeeming the
Last summer, I heard frsthand the story Dream: The Case for Marriage Equality.
of their unlikely partnership. A group of us (HBO’s documentary on the trial, The Case
F O R DE TA I L S, GO TO VF.CO M/C RE DI TS
were cruising off the Amalfi coast, one of Against 8, is also out this month.)
the most stunning seascapes in the Mediter- Lawyers often get a hard time in Ameri-
ranean. Good wine (another common Boies- ca. But in the case of same-sex marriage, so
Olson cause) fowed; so did the post-lunch long a taboo, two distinguished attorneys
conversation. A fellow passenger prodded turned out to be way ahead of the politicians.
CR E DI TS HE RE
Ted to tell his story. Why Ted, not David? That’s a tribute to David and Ted—and to
Because Ted is a true conservative, a former the vibrancy of American democracy. �
www.vanityfair.com VA N IT Y FAI R 67
THE NEW Dubai International Airport has surpassed Heathrow as the
world’s busiest global hub, while three Gulf airlines—Emirates, Qatar Airways,
and Etihad—are scooping up passengers. Boarding a lavishly
appointed Airbus A380 at Dubai’s $4.5 billion Terminal 3, GRAHAM BOYNTON
examines the tectonic shift in aviation that threatens
to leave the West’s cramped, bare-bones carriers in the dust
LUXURY
L AYOVER
Perched atop the
terminal, the Emirates
lounge at Dubai
International
serves well-heeled
68 fiers in style.
W JET AGE
N
On the Wing
ow follow these passengers onto one of the
Emirates Airbus A380s. Emirates, owned
by the government of Dubai, is one of the
world’s fastest-growing international airlines
and is a game changer in global travel. Together
with the two other nouveau Gulf carriers, Qatar
wo o’clock in the morning and I am Airways and Abu Dhabi’s Etihad, the national airline of the United
standing at the crossroads of the modern world. Like a pinball Arab Emirates, it has already made the European and North Ameri-
machine, the arrivals-and-departures board clicks of the names can warhorses of aviation seem down-at-heel and out of date. There
of international cities—Dhaka, Colombo, Damascus, Male, Perth, are many reasons for their unlikely emergence out of these arid des-
Manchester, New York, Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City—and wave ert communities—oil frst and foremost. But beyond this, there is the
after wave of citizens of the 21st century move this way and that allure of the voyage. A passenger’s trip through the airport inspires a
through this massive marble-and-glass terminal. measure of wonder. And the magic-carpet experience on one of these
One can’t help staring in wonder. Denim-clad construction work- aircraft is rather like checking into a small luxury hotel on the wing.
ers from the Indian subcontinent are slumped over seats waiting I join the stream of travelers transferring from the concourse
for their fights to be called; Armani-draped businessmen carry- to a shining new aircraft, around 400 boarding on the lower level
ing Gucci leather briefcases head for the frst-class lounges; young, into economy class and some 90 on the upper foor to business
loving couples sleep entwined on the sofas that line the walkways. and frst. On both tiers the passengers are greeted by a phalanx
The fnal call for the Emirates fight to Jidda summons a posse of of attractive young air hostesses recruited from all over the world.
women in burkas, who scurry to the gate. Walking in strict forma- (Though Emirates employs male stewards, none is in evidence to-
tion in the opposite direction, behind a young man hoisting a yellow day.) The cabin announcements reveal that the crew on this fight
fag, is a group of neatly dressed, middle-aged Japanese women. can speak English, French, German, Arabic, Spanish, Swahili,
The only near-stationary beings in this enormous cavern of activ- Mandarin, Italian, and Xhosa.
ity are the shoppers poring over items in 100 or so stores that run Although this is not my frst A380 fight, I am still somewhat awe-
the length of the terminal, stacked with everything from the usual struck at how this 550-ton aircraft, after an almost silent and appar-
electronic gizmos and perfumes to $11,000 bottles of 1947 Cheval ently efortless surge of its four Engine Alliance GP7200 engines,
Blanc. (At Le Clos fne wines, the salesperson tells me she has al- seems to foat into the air after what appears to be a rather sedate
ready taken in $100,000—in a single sale—that evening.) rumble down the runway. Previously, my most vivid aviation experi-
And so the well-oiled people-moving machine keeps turning, ence had been on the Concorde, which, by dramatic contrast, rock-
10 gigantic elevators shifting travelers up and down the termi- eted across the tarmac at breathtaking speed and tinnitus-inducing
nal’s 11 foors, a subterranean train shuttling them between con- decibels and scythed its way into inner space with all the roman-
courses, 82 moving walkways. Perpetual motion, 24-7, 365 days tic, devil-may-care optimism that defned life in the booming late-
a year. 20th century. But this is commercial air travel in the credit-crunch
This is Dubai International Airport’s $4.5 billion Terminal 3, the 21st, and the A380 is a high-tech piece of aerospace pragmatism.
exclusive province of Emirates airline. Covering nearly 18.5 million Carrying 525 passengers up to 8,500 nautical miles nonstop (the
square feet, it is the largest air terminal on the planet. Dubai Inter- Dubai–New York leg takes about 131⁄2 hours), the plane hums along
national also ranks alongside Singapore’s Changi, Hong Kong In- in relative quiet—with astounding eco-correctness. Airbus claims
ternational, and Beijing Capital International as the most passenger- that the A380 uses 20 percent less fuel than the Boeing 747, and that
friendly. Every week from this airport’s Jetways, 130 international when fully laden and fying long-haul it is more fuel-efcient per pas-
airlines operate more than 6,000 fights to some 260 destinations on senger than a Toyota Prius.
every continent except Antarctica. The A380 is not a particularly pretty aircraft by the
In January 2013, Dubai International opened Con- Concorde’s aesthetically pleasing standards; some air-
course A—aviation’s frst facility dedicated entirely to MAKING AN EXIT line bufs say it looks as if one bus has been squashed
Airbus A380 superjumbos. Located in Terminal 3, Opposite, underneath on top of another. But the space inside—the interior
it is a magnifcent building. Huge frst- and business- swooping arches, volume—is very impressive. The frst-class cabin com-
class lounges connect directly to the A380 upper an Emirates prises 14 suites that are equipped with sliding doors
pilot and two fight
decks; economy-class passengers board from the attendants stride for complete privacy as well as a vanity table, personal
lower level. The new concourse has already increased through the carrier’s mini-bar, wardrobe, desk, 23-inch television screen,
Dubai’s traffic to 75 million passengers a year, Dubai terminal. and what is efectively an armchair that converts into
70 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
JU LY 2 014 71
EVERY WEEK 130 INTERNATIONAL
FIRST-CL ASS
CACHET
In an Emirates A380,
seats recline into beds.
Opposite: top, a
day-to-night view of the
exterior of Dubai
International
Concourses B and C;
bottom, palms
adorn the baggage-
J ULY 2014 claim area. 73
74 VAN IT Y FA IR www.vanityfair.com JULY 2 014
MILE HIGH
a bed. And if you want to take a shower at 40,000 Opposite: The second shift came with the arrival of the jet
feet, there are two of those on board. The food-and- top, Emirates fight age, in 1958, the introduction of the Boeing 747 a
wine menu is also appropriately lavish, with caviar, attendants aboard little over a decade later, and then the 1978 deregu-
Dom Pérignon, Cakebread chardonnay, and 1989 a roomy A380; bottom, lation of the U.S. airline industry. In the early days
the well-stocked
Gruaud-Larose all standard fare. bar in business class of mass air travel, national airlines such as Pan Am
At the back of the upper-deck cabin, directly be- is the aircraft’s and TWA and fag-carrying European airlines (Brit-
hind business class, is the pièce de résistance: a fully most popular amenity. ish Airways, Air France, Lufthansa) ruled the world
operative stand-up bar that has been the social hub through government-protected colonial-route net-
on every Emirates A380 fight I have taken. To make works. But as the colonies evaporated and new busi-
space for this in-fight lounge, Emirates president Tim Clark says, he ness models challenged regulation, the legacy U.S. behemoths be-
has had to sacrifce six premium seats, but declares, “It’s the most gan to fall. First Eastern, then Pan Am, then TWA.
popular thing we’ve ever done. They have a real party down there.” Southeast Asia then heralded the third tectonic shift. Introducing
On this fight a group of Italian contractors join two British couples high-quality, service-led air travel, airlines such as Cathay Pacifc, Sin-
around the bar soon after takeof. And they’re all still there six hours gapore Airlines, Thai, and the rest all fourished as the international
later as the plane starts its descent. It is, indeed, some party. business-travel market grew, and as the old-world airlines struggled to
Even the humble masses in coach are able to partake of the survive. These feets provided more comfortable seating, particularly
A380’s in-fight video-and-audio system, which ofers more than at the front of the cabins, and a level of in-fight service that Western
1,500 channels featuring movies, television shows, news, games, airlines had failed to ofer with any conviction since the 50s.
and music from around the world, all delivered through high-end, Now we are in the fourth age. U.S. airlines are merging and
13-inch seatback monitors. morphing into giant entities with large domestic networks and rela-
For anyone who has endured the post-deregulation austerity tively small international reach, ofering only passable amenities on
of U.S. airlines over the past few decades—uncomfortable, over- rather old equipment. Meanwhile, the Gulf airlines feature quality
crowded, bare-bones bus journeys in the sky—the experience of service at a competitive price. Peter Morris, chief economist at the
fying on Emirates, Etihad, or Qatar comes close to recapturing aviation consultancy frm Ascend, says that these carriers have now
the joy of jet travel from Pan Am’s heyday. There is a sense of fun “built enough critical mass to be a genuine threat to the traditional
on board, and that has come down from the top. Tim Clark says European airlines and in the near future to the Americans.”
he wants to bring a bit of glamour back into fying.
‘T
The sudden ascendancy of the Gulf airlines and their hub air- Shanghai on Steroids
ports is partially a result of geological fortune but mainly due to hey say that Dubai is Shanghai on steroids,”
good planning by the Emirati leaders. Emirates was founded in 1985 notes Clark as he stares out of his ofce win-
after Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum hired a British dow in the terminal, admiring a row of gleaming
Airways executive, Sir Maurice Flanagan, gave him $10 million, and Emirates A380s. A neat, dapper man in his 60s,
told him to build an airline. (Many start-up aviation frms begin by Clark reveals that his first job (after graduating
leasing most of their feet.) Aware that Dubai’s oil reserves would with an economics degree from the University of
run out in the early 21st century, Sheikh Mohammed had decided London) was as a bus conductor. That humble beginning, he says,
to transform his country from a petro-dependent mini-state to a di- taught him the basics of the transport trade “because right from
verse business powerhouse with tourism and aviation at its center. the start I was intrigued at the pricing structure and the type of bus
Today the airline has some 218 aircraft, with another 374 on feet, and saw great similarities when I joined the airline industry.”
order. What Flanagan and Clark, another exile from the British He subsequently spent 14 years in aviation before moving to Dubai.
aviation industry, have created is an airline that links the emerging Emirates has 47 A380s in service and another 93 ordered, but the
countries in Asia and Africa to Europe and the Americas. As Clark challenge of flling these giant aircraft as the world slowly emerges
points out, the U.A.E. is within eight hours’ fying time for half the from the global recession doesn’t faze Clark at all. He says 93 is no-
world’s population. And just as Emirates was connecting Africa and where near enough for Emirates’ needs, and then his eyes light up
the East to the rest of the world, so Emirates was joined by Qatar at the thought of all the potential customers out there in the modern
Airways in 1997 and then by Etihad in 2003 in its bid to shuttle this world. “Look at China,” he exclaims. “The Chinese market is big
new generation of business and leisure travelers around the globe. enough for all of us. There are cities we haven’t heard of—with popu-
lations half the size of Britain—and they’ve got three international
Four Tectonic Shifts fights a week.”
he emergence of these carriers marks the The only time that Clark seems to lose his air of afability is when
fourth tectonic shift in international aviation criticism of Emirates is raised by the “legacy” airlines. He says that
since Pan Am’s founder, Juan Trippe, democ- for years the leaders of these European and North American car-
ratized the industry in the early 1950s. Prior to riers have benefted from subsidies and tax advantages on fuel and
Trippe’s intervention, air travel was the domain had received export aid for new aircraft from Boeing and Airbus for
of the ruling classes, and fares between the U.S. which their domestic counterparts were ineligible. In any case, pleas
and Europe were fxed by the stodgy International Air Transport to keep the trio of Gulf airlines out of Europe and North America
Association. However, in 1952, Trippe decided to introduce a have failed, and all three, over the past few years, have signifcantly
tourist-class fare between New York and London and thus began increased service to European cities.
a decades-long battle between free-market fying and cartel-led “The Europeans accuse us of stealing their market,” Clark says,
regulation that would see the rise and fall of carriers such as Sir fairly agitated. “But it wasn’t theirs in the frst place. What right have
Freddie Laker’s Skytrain in the 70s and People Express in the 80s, they to take passengers from Africa to Asia or vice versa over Euro-
along with the breakout success of Virgin Atlantic. pean hubs? So a passenger who wants to go C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 1 1 4
JU LY 2 014 www.vanityfair.com VAN IT Y FAI R 75
Spotlight
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www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
TO the BANNER BORN
H
ad Ralph Lauren not left his native Bronx, let’s go ahead He knew the look he wanted. As a fledgling designer, he started off sell-
and assume, he would not be as closely identified as he ing ties out of a small office at the Empire State Building. He believed in
is today with a polo pony. Taken to its Capra-esque hy- his ability to sell us all an aspirational lifestyle. It was an idealized and
pothetical extreme, let’s try to imagine a world without accessorized version of America, where collars were popped, hair was
Ralph Lauren: no ponies, no picnics or casual beach gatherings at- tousled, and men seldom needed socks. Ralph even showed us how he
tended by sun-kissed kids and the well-turned-out adults who produced lived, what he wore, and the cars he drove. It hadn’t been labeled yet,
them. No sweaters with American flags on them (they made us feel but we now know it as a kind of casual chic. We were offered pieces of
better, warmer, and more patriotic during that first winter after 9/11), it, à la carte, and we couldn’t believe our good fortune.
no purple labels, red pants, or golden retrievers. If it’s true that clothes The iconic pony, as recognizable as any logo on the planet, has
make the man, it’s worth celebrating the man who makes the clothes. grown larger with age, and so has the company Ralph founded.
This month, Ralph Lauren is being awarded the James Smithson Bicen- Wherever I have traveled, in some of the remotest places on earth,
tennial Medal, recognizing his lifetime contributions to American entre- “Polo” is often the only word displayed in English—emblazoned on
preneurship, artistry, creativity, and vision—and especially his leadership knockoff garments the world over. For the founder, it must be the ulti-
role in the preservation of the Star-Spangled Banner, the flag that dates mate test of that old expression about imitation and flattery.
back to the War of 1812 and inspired the national anthem. It’s the latest Beyond the lapels and cuffs and studs and shades, Ralph’s proud-
of many honors for Ralph Lauren. Then again, it’s been a wonderful life. est achievement cannot be found in any product line. It’s his family.
Ralph Lauren was born of equal parts aspiration and inspiration; Ralph and Ricky, married nearly 50 years, have produced three stun-
the latter can be found in every frame of The Thomas Crown Affair, with ning children. The Lauren Five are as thick as thieves. They finish one
Steve McQueen, who once said his character in the film—a proper but another’s sentences and love one another madly. When seen togeth-
bored banker who takes an improper turn into robbing banks—was the er, they are the embodiment of the patriarch’s American ideal, and a
man he longed to be in real life. Perhaps young Ralph felt the same way. large part of what makes him the ideal American. — BRIAN WILLIA MS
{
@vf.com
E X P LO R E T HE
E VO LU T IO N O F
RAL P H LAU R EN ’ S
GR E AT ES T A D S .
GO TO V F. CO M /
JU LY 20 1 4 .
HER HOUS How did a 26-year-old cocktail waitress end up running a private weekly
the likes of Leo, Ben, and Tobey? In an adaptation from her new memoir, MOLLY
break, at the infamous Viper Room; the millions that crossed her
07
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www.vanityfair.com JULY 2 014
E of CARDS
poker game for some of Hollywood’s highest rollers, including
BLOOM, who has since gained notoriety as “the Poker Princess,” recalls her lucky
table; and the biggest winners—who could also be the worst losers
P H OTO IL LUSTR AT IO N BY DARROW VV A
ANN II TT Y F A I R 79
A
his buy-in as well. I knew from my research “Hi, honey,” Bob said now as I took his
that he had been an executive at of one of coat. I saw his eyes fick around the room; even
the most prestigious golf companies in the he got a little giddy when he saw that Leo was
world. Bob was a real-estate magnate, and there. Phillip walked in with his friend Mark.
Phillip came from a long line of European Mark was friends with Pete, a tennis legend,
aristocrats. His mother had been a glamor- who allegedly played high-stakes poker, too.
ous supermodel and his father was one of When he saw me, Phillip let out a low
the most famous playboys in Manhattan. whistle and kissed my hand.
Reardon came blasting in with his typical I blushed and looked at the foor, enjoying
“Oh yeah!” greeting. The rumpled Houston every surreal moment of being the only girl
showed up next, followed by Tobey and Leo. I among such handsome, accomplished men.
straightened my shoulders and smiled as natu- And then above the buzz of voices came
rally as I could. They are just people, I told Reardon’s ringing voice.
myself as butterflies flew manically around “Let’s play!!”
in my stomach. I introduced myself, took They settled into their seats, and the air
their buy-ins, and asked for their drink orders. flled with the smooth sounds of my Frank
When I shook Leo’s hand and he gave me a Sinatra playlist, the whirring of the Shufe
crooked smile from under his hat, my heart Master, the shufing of chips, and the hap-
raced a little faster. Tobey was cute, too, and py, playful banter of the players.
t he seemed very friendly. I didn’t have any When it was time for dinner, I ordered Mr.
6:45 p.m. I stood by the front door and backstory on Houston except that he was Chow’s. The guys weren’t thrilled about the
waited. I fdgeted with my dress. I started to somehow involved in the movie business. He idea of stopping the game to eat, and I made
feel insecure about how to greet the players. had kind eyes, but there was something difer- a mental note to get side tables and, in the fu-
I knew their names, but did that mean that I ent about him. He didn’t seem to belong with ture, let them eat their food at the poker table.
should introduce myself? this crowd. Steve, a major Hollywood direc- The game resumed after dinner at full
Stop it, I said in my head. I closed my eyes tor, and Dylan, a producer, showed up next. speed. I sat in the corner, watching Diego’s
and tried to calm down by imagining myself as The energy in the room was palpable. It hands fly around the table pushing chips
I wanted to be—not the Colorado girl scraping felt more like a sports arena than the base- and fipping cards—it was impossibly hard
by as a cocktail waitress. My boss, Reardon, ment of the Viper Room. to keep up with. Suddenly the noise dimmed
a real-estate investor, had decided I would Reardon fnished ripping into a sandwich and Mark stood up. He walked around the
be the hostess of a poker game he had orga- and shouted, “Let’s play.” table with his hands in his pockets.
nized at Hollywood’s infamous Viper Room. I watched, fascinated. It was all incredibly There was a giant stack of chips in the
“Molly Bloom, you are wearing the dress surreal. I was standing in the corner of the center. My eyes traced the perimeter of
of your dreams. You are confdent and fear- Viper Room counting one hundred thou- the table to see who still had cards.
less and you will be perfect.” None of this sand dollars in cash! I was in the compa- Tobey.
was true, of course, but I wanted it to be. I ny of movie stars, important directors, and Tobey just sat there eating the vegan
opened my eyes, lifted my chin, and relaxed powerful business tycoons. I felt like Alice snack he had brought from home. His round
my shoulders. It was showtime. tumbling down the rabbit hole. eyes were fxed on Mark.
The frst person to arrive was Todd, the As the players fled out, they thanked me, Mark deliberated while the rest of us held
F
“Sure,” I said, eyeing the giant stack of Hollywooding there were so many and they were everywhere.
hundred-dollar bills. or the second game, a week lat- “You got me,” Tobey said, and pushed
“Can I get you a drink?” I asked. er, I showed up in a sexy new his cards to Diego.
He ordered a Diet Coke. I went behind dress. Tobey smiled at Mark. “Nice hand, man.”
the bar and set the enormous amount of “Whoa, look at you,” the And then he looked directly at me, his
money down. dealer Diego said. “Your tips eyes fxed in a hard stare.
After I served him his drink, I started are going to be good tonight.” “Who is this guy?” Tobey texted me.
counting the stack. It was $10,000, all right. When Tobey and Leo walked in, the guys “Mark—he’s an attorney.”
I put it in the cash register with Todd’s name became a little shy and awkward, except for “I see” was all he wrote back.
on it. I felt cool, edgy, and dangerous counting Reardon, who fst-bumped Leo with a gruf I had a sinking sensation that I was now
that much money. The others started to arrive. “What’s happening, player?” While the guys in trouble.
Bruce introduced himself and handed me clustered around Leo, Tobey went over to The game picked up again, and I held my
Diego and handed him his Shufe Master. breath whenever Reardon was in a hand and
Adapted from Molly’s Game: From Hollywood’s The Shufe Master is a $17,000 machine that now Tobey too. I knew Reardon well enough
Elite to Wall Street’s Billionaire Boys Club, My is supposed to deliver a fair, random shufe to be certain that the thrill of the game
High-Stakes Adventure in the World of Underground every time and increases the speed of each wouldn’t last long if he lost every time. Clear-
Poker, by Molly Bloom, to be published this
month by It Books, an imprint of HarperCollins game. Last week, Tobey had told the guys he ly, I had to keep Tobey happy, too. They both
Publishers; © 2014 by the author. wouldn’t play without it. came out ahead, but every second leading up
80 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
WITH A $50,000 BUY-IN, THERE WAS
$500,000 ON THE TABLE BEFORE THE
A
to the last hand of the game was so full of Full House
anticipation that by the end of the night fter several months I
I was completely emotionally exhausted. went behind Reardon’s
But I loved every minute of it. The game back and plotted with
lasted until three a.m. Phillip and Tobey to
As the guys fled out, I helped them make the game my
with their coats and valet tickets, air-kissed own. I thought Reardon
and/or hugged good-bye, and was hand- would be furious with me, but instead he
somely rewarded by each of them with said, “I’m proud of you᠁ The game is
cash or chips. I was immensely apprecia- yours. You earned it.”
tive; I felt like it was so much more than I Part of the fun each week was to bring
deserved. The biggest tippers were Phillip, in a new face. It was kind of interesting
Houston, and Bruce, who gave me espe- to watch the dynamics. The new guy al-
cially large sums, but I made sure to thank ways felt awkward at frst, and I tried my
each of them with the same amount of en- best to make him more comfortable. The
thusiasm. Tobey, despite being the biggest regulars, especially Todd and Reardon,
winner, gave me the smallest tip. tried to make him feel uncomfortable.
Once they were gone, Diego and I sat It was like watching a cliquish group of
down at the table. We combined our tips adolescent girls. If the guy started win-
and then counted it out: $15,000. Seventy- ning of the bat once he sat down,
fve hundred each. IN THE CHIPS he was picked on even more. If he
T
Bloom at the was losing or playing badly, the
he follow-up to the games Montage guys were much friendlier. If the
was always the same: Orga- I’m going to start charging Beverly Hills. new player was a celebrity or a bil-
nize the players. Pay anyone rent for the Shufe Master.” lionaire, then all bets were of and
who had won. Collect from I looked past him to the expansive foyer he was treated like royalty.
anyone who had lost. of his mansion in the hills. You could see You can tell a lot about a man’s character
At first, the money part straight through to the ocean. by watching him win or lose money. Money
stressed me out. I felt bad asking the losers I laughed. Surely he was joking. He couldn’t is the great equalizer.
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for money, and it took a lot of time to drive possibly be serious about charging rent for a With the addition of Ben, Derek, and
WIREIMAGE (HEAD); BY DANNY MARTINDALE/FILMMAGIC (HEAD). THIS PAGE: ST YLED BY NATALIE TOREN; GOWN BY
all over the city chasing and paying. But I machine he insisted that we use, from the guys Rick, I had more than enough players for
soon came to realize that those one-on-one whose money he was taking every week. the big game, and I started planning for the
meet-ups were great opportunities to really But he was as serious as death, and I following Tuesday at the Beverly Hills Hotel.
get to know the men at the table. quickly stopped laughing. I asked for Bungalow No. 1 because it was
On this particular Wednesday, I was “O.K.,” I squeaked. “Um, how much?” separate from the hotel, impressively ap-
scheduled to see Tobey and Phillip. “Two hundred dollars.” pointed, and had a circular foyer that would
I went to Tobey’s frst. I was getting used I smiled to conceal my surprise. be useful for keeping the food deliveries and
to dropping by there: Tobey won every week. “I’m sure that will be fne. No problem,” room service separate from the game.
I drove slowly up the steep drive, buzzed I said. More celebrities and higher stakes meant
the security bell, and announced myself. “Greeaaat,” he said. “Thanks, Molly. And that ensuring privacy was becoming more
“It’s Molly, dropping of a check.” there’s one other thing. I’d like to know who’s and more important. The higher the stakes,
The long tone indicated that I had clear- playing every week. If there’s going to be some- the greater the paranoia.
ance. The gates opened slowly and I drove one new, I would defnitely like to know who I decided to drop Ben’s name in an efort
in. At the end of the driveway was Tobey’s it is. In advance.” His words came out slowly, to land Arthur, the ultimate whale.
palatial house. sounding soft on the outside but with a sharp- I had been doing some checking around
He was already at the door when I got edged threat at the center. I fgured this was about Arthur, who was known for his love
there. “Heyyyy, how are you?” probably about the hand he had lost to Mark. of women and his mysterious but ample for-
“Hey,” I said, handing him the heavy and “No problem,” I repeated, wanting out of tune. I knew that he had more than enough
awkward Shufe Master. “Thanks for letting there before I promised him my frstborn and billions to cover his buy-in. I also knew that
us use this for the game.” my soul. he loved celebrity and that a superstar ac-
“No problem,” he said, taking the machine. “All righty, talk to you later,” he said, and tor like Ben was a perfect line to dangle.
“I wanted to chat with you about something.” waved a cheerful good-bye. I shook my head “Hey, Arthur. I’m doing a game for Ben,
“What’s up?” as I drove away. I would never understand and we would love it if you played,” I texted.
His eyes squinted for a moment. “I think rich people. Word was out now about the big game,
JU LY 2 014 P H OTO GRA PH BY JOHN RUSSO www.vanityfair.com VAN IT Y FAI R 81
and I had received a few calls from profes- guys, and so I knew they could handle it; I “Don’t run of with it,” he said.
sional poker players practically begging me also knew that it would create pots big enough We rejoined the others just in time to see
for a seat. Some ofered me straight cash, and to make even the richest guys sweat a little. Bosko and Gabe walk in. They gave me a cool
some a “free roll,” which means if they won I re-applied my lipstick and waited. I had hello; they were old-school and I knew it would
I would get a percentage, and if they lost I invited Tiffany and Lauren, new friends I take some time before they would show me any
wouldn’t have any liability. I knew that letting had made during a recent trip to Vegas. The respect. I didn’t care. My game spoke for itself.
pros into this game would be a surefre way to two of them showed up to serve drinks and Bob showed up next, and Mike asked me
lose it. The pros would win all the money, and act as decoration. They looked breathtaking. if we could begin.
part of what made my game so special was I knew the guys in the room tonight would “Guys, do you want to start?” I asked
the chemistry at the table and the fact that no- have a lot that made them want to stay—on above the excited banter.
body there played poker for a living. and of the table. Of course they did.
And it wasn’t just that every cardplayer The frst player to arrive was Derek, who They drew for seats, and the game was of
in Hollywood wanted to come to the games; was playing for the frst time and had come and running.
everyone’s friends and their friends wanted to recommended to me by Blake, a friend in In the very frst hand, Bob, Bosko, Mike,
come to watch. I felt that a huge part of this Vegas. “He’s young, rich, and a true degener- and Derek were all in. I got the chips and the
enterprise depended on discretion, so I tried ate,” Blake had told me. “He’s difcult, but he buy-in board ready. That hand went to Bob,
to discourage spectators when I could, but loses $10 to $20 million a year. You want his which made both Bob and Diego, whom
I couldn’t stop the guys from bringing girl- number.” Bob punished when he lost, very happy.
friends along to show of in front of, or the Tobey showed up with Houston. Mike The guys reloaded, laughing and joking.
occasional celebrity from stopping by. Some- showed next. He was a very successful trader “I’ll take 200,” said Mike.
times the rap producer Irv would bring Nelly who seemed a little ditsy but was a genius with I looked around the room for objections.
along. Celebrities were always allowed, to be numbers. I’d heard he was an absolute animal Mike wanted to make sure he had enough
honest. Like when the Olsen twins showed up at the table, as I found most traders were. He chips to take Bob down.
with a billionaire I was trying to land for the had the same routine of arriving and empty- “Actually,” Mike said, “make it 500.”
game. They were in, no questions asked. ing out his pockets, which always contained I looked at him and he nodded, so I count-
The fnal list for the big game was Tobey; a shocking number of items: golf tees, pens, ed $500,000 in chips and gave them to him.
Ben; my new whales, Derek and Rick; Bob; receipts, lip balm. He handed me his blank, “I’ll take 500, too,” said Derek.
Houston; and some new faces: Bosko, a dap- signed check, and I clipped it to my board. Ev- I looked at Tobey at the same moment he
per gentleman in his 60s; Mike, a finance ery player that night had done the same—given looked at me, and nodded to indicate that I
whiz who loved to gamble; and Gabe, who me a signed check, with the amount left blank had the money in cash. His eyebrows few
back in the day was a television star. All the to cover his buy-in and his losses if things didn’t up and he looked impressed.
players except Tobey and Houston were huge go his way. For the moment the holding com- I counted out Derek’s chips.
action. The going-all-in-blind kind of action. pany of Molly Bloom Inc. was ofcially rich. “Give me 300 more,” Bob said.
M
And the initial buy-in was $50,000, which Talk about a testosterone contest, I thought,
meant there would be half a million dollars ike went to join the other counting out the chips. The cards hadn’t even
on the table before the frst cards were dealt. guys, and I motioned been dealt for the second hand. As I counted
It was going to be a big night. Derek over. the chips I looked around the table to see if any-
I
He picked up his back- one else wanted to play Richest Guy at the Pok-
chose my outft carefully: a black dress pack and followed me er Table. With no takers, the action continued.
that was just clingy enough to be sexy into the bedroom, open- Just then I got a text from Ben.
but not enough to be vulgar. Black ing the bag as soon as I shut the door. He “Here,” it said.
Louboutins, Chanel pearls, and a light knew what I wanted: he had $250,000 in cash A surge of excitement coursed through my
jacket, which was important because and another $500,000 in Bellagio chips. As I body—and in that moment I realized how
I liked to keep the game room cool. had explained to him when we met earlier, much I had changed. Ben showing up for my
Colder temperatures kept players awake, and I couldn’t extend him credit his frst time at poker game was undeniably monumental, but
there was nothing worse than a tableful of tired, the game, so by bringing $750,000 he would the butterfies I was feeling now were excite-
lethargic poker players. I wanted the table ex- be able to buy in 15 times that night. ment that he was playing at my table, that he
ploding with action, energy, and conversation. Even though I was tripping on the was a part of my game.
The chemistry at a table is so important. amount of money I was being given, I smiled I greeted Ben at the door. He was tall and
You must start with a carefully balanced mix as if I did this every day. I didn’t want Derek handsome, with a relaxed charisma that not
of personalities. If the balance is of and the to start to wonder about the fact that he had all icons have in person.
stakes are too big for some of the players, it just handed three-quarters of a million dol- He looked surprised when I told him who
kills the game. Too small and everybody gets lars to a virtual stranger. “Great, I’ll just put I was.
bored. The $50,000 buy-in had attracted these it in the safe for now.” “You’re so young,” he said.
R I
ick showed up
next. Rick, the
videographer,
director, and
co-star of an infamous sex
n October 2012, when the Austrian stuntman Felix
tape, was crass and dirty, but
Baumgartner jumped from a balloon at nearly 128,000
he was still hot in a caveman kind of way.
I pulled him aside to show him the board. feet and exceeded the speed of sound during a free fall,
“Wow, they are swinging, huh?” he said, five little GoPro cameras were strapped to his suit to re-
looking down at me. “Want to fuck?” cord high-definition views of his heroics. At around the
I looked back at him, praying my face same time, GoPro became the best-selling video camera in the Unit-
wasn’t as red as it felt. ed States, and its inventor and chief promoter, a Northern California
“No thanks,” I said as casually as if he surfer named Nicholas Woodman, became a billionaire. Woodman
had asked me if I wanted a Tic Tac. is now 39 but seems younger. His success is due in part to his authen-
He laughed. ticity—he is a genuine member of the extreme-sports crowd, given to
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“Give me 200K.” whooping and exclaiming “Awesome!” without irony. But he is also
Holy shit. I had a humongous poker game. an unusually focused businessman. Woodman started with the idea
As Rick took a seat, I saw him focus on of inventing a wrist strap to which surfers could attach a camera to
Ben. I saw the wheels turning. Oh God, I show themselves in action. He soon realized that, for lack of suitable
thought, don’t let Rick say anything embar- devices in the marketplace, he had to invent the camera too—some-
rassing. He had no flter. thing inexpensive, waterproof, mountable every which way, and
“Hey, yo, did Jennifer’s ass have cellulite providing an ultra-wide-angle view. In a world awash in polished
on it, or was it nice?” videos of professional surfers, he sympathized with the urge that or-
The table went silent. dinary surfers have to look like that, too. He called the camera the
Ben looked at Rick. Hero, and began to sell it to surf shops in 2004. It took off right away,
“It was nice,” he said, and pushed into a
with sales that grew from about 1,500 units the first year to at least
huge pot.
three million annually today. So it wasn’t just the surfing culture that
The table laughed and the ice was broken.
he tapped into. It turned out that all sorts of people doing all sorts
These may have been larger-than-life char-
acters playing with larger-than-life numbers, of things wanted to mount a camera to film themselves and their ac-
but at the end of the day, guys are guys—and tivities. The camera also caught on with scientists, soldiers, athletic
strangers quickly became familiar friends at a coaches, journalists, surgeons, and probably jihadists too. But it’s
poker table. the amateurs who count the most. Their output is astonishing—a video
After that uncomfortable moment the time capsule of our era. Woodman thought he’d be selling mainly to
game took on a life of its own. It was one of fellow surfers, but as Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram have shown,
those perfect nights where the conversation the interest of people in themselves is boundless. Woodman’s market
was lively, the action was fast and furious, niche turned out to be humanity. Now his company is going public.
and each one of C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 1 1 3 No wonder he says he’s stoked. —WILLIA M L ANGE WIESC HE
VAN IT Y
FA IR
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The RIOT ACT
‘H
ow do you pronounce this word? En-door?
Endure. Endure.” Masha Alyokhina repeated
the word several more times. She and Nadya
Tolokonnikova were getting ready to give their
first speech in English, to an audience of more than 2,000
women at New York’s Lincoln Center. Their biggest ap-
plause line was “Be Pussy Riot! Anyone can be Pussy Riot!”
Though often called a punk-rock group, Pussy Riot is actu-
ally a Russian protest-art collective started by non-musicians
a little less than three years ago. By the rules of the group
as devised by Tolokonnikova, members are always anony-
mous: they are Pussy Riot only when wearing their trademark
neon-colored balaclavas. Alyokhina and Tolokonnikova are
two exceptions: they were unmasked and arrested two and
a half years ago after performing what they called a “punk
prayer” inside Moscow’s biggest cathedral. The song ap-
pealed to the Virgin Mary to “chase Putin out.” Alyokhina
and Tolokonnikova were sentenced to two years in penal
colonies and served 22 months in Gulag-like conditions.
It is these conditions—the slave labor, the system of pun-
ishment and control that involves holding women outside
in the cold for hours and days and at times denying them
even the right to wash—that they have been working to
publicize ever since they got out of prison, at the end of
2013. As Pussy Riot, they have recorded a clip called “Putin
Will Teach You to Love the Motherland,” its centerpiece a
real-life scene, captured on video, in which Tolokonnikova,
Alyokhina, and several others are attacked and horse-
whipped by Cossacks in Sochi. (The Cossacks, a paramili-
tary force, have long been menacing Russian artists and
L.G.B.T. activists with the Kremlin’s explicit encouragement.)
As prisoners’-rights advocates, Alyokhina and Tolokon-
nikova have traveled to various Russian regions to docu-
ment human-rights abuses. In Nizhny Novgorod, they were
attacked by self-identified Russian-patriot thugs, who sent
Alyokhina to the hospital with a lacerated forehead and left
Tolokonnikova with acid in her eyes.
After all they’ve had to endure, it is their stubborn belief in
the power of information and their insistent hope for a bright-
er future for Russia that strike one most about Tolokonnikova
and Alyokhina. That, and the fact that when they are outside
of Russia they feel nothing so strongly as the need to get
back to work in their own country—where, they’ve realized,
they will now have to hire bodyguards. — M ASHA GESSEN
86 VA N I T Y FA
A II RR P HOTOGR A P HS BY ANNIE LEIBOVITZ JU N E 2014
S E T D E S IG N BY M ARY HOWA R D STU DI O;
F OR D E TAI LS , G O TO VF. COM/ C R E D ITS
J ULY
2014
www.vanityfair.com
s Is Back!
VA N IT Y
FAI R
87
I f the walls at Manhattan’s Frick Collection
could talk, they would have been uttering tiny gasps of shock and
awe this spring at a lecture given by Jef Koons for a small, mostly
professional-art-world crowd. Koons was sharing his ruminations on
the Renaissance and Baroque bronzes from the Hill Collection then
on view in the galleries, and it was one of the artist’s classic perfor-
mances: no opportunity was missed to point out breasts, testicles, and
phalluses, both in the bronzes and in his own work. This way of seeing
and talking about art is his specialty, and the crowd ate it up, many of
them getting the droll underlying humor of the situation as a deadpan
Koons busted taboos in snootsville. But not everyone was happy about
it. The very idea of Koons’s being invited to speak at this old-world in-
exhibition spaces save the ffth foor, which holds selections from the
permanent collection—it will be the biggest show devoted to a single
artist that the Whitney has ever done. Furthermore, it will be the
last show, for now at least, that the Whitney will put on in its cur-
rent home—Marcel Breuer’s bold, unconventional, gray granite-and-
concrete modernist structure at 75th Street and Madison Avenue.
After the Koons exhibition, the museum will reopen downtown, in
spring 2015, in a much larger space designed by Renzo Piano, smack
at the southern end of the High Line, in the Meatpacking District.
The museum, which can’t aford to erect a new building and keep
the old one operating at full throttle, has leased the Breuer building
for eight years, with an option to extend, to the Metropolitan Mu-
seum of Art, which has never had a sympathetic exhibition space for
its collection of 20th- and 21st-century works. Now it does.
First, though, the prospect of the Koons show is revving things
up in the art world. “Jef is the Warhol of his time,” proclaims
Adam Weinberg, the Whitney’s director. The exhibition’s organizer,
Rothkopf, adds, “We didn’t want to leave the building looking back-
wards and being nostalgic, but we wanted something very bold that
was new for the Whitney and Jef and New York.”
It is a banner year for Koons in general. Split-Rocker, 2000, the art-
stitution apparently put someone’s nose out of joint enough that he or ist’s second live-fower sculpture, will be shown in New York for the frst
she had sent the museum postcards featuring drawings of poop. time, at Rockefeller Center, under the auspices of the Gagosian Gallery
The Frick isn’t the only important institution to embrace Koons. and the Public Art Fund, to coincide with the Whitney show. With its
The Whitney Museum plans a retrospective, curated by Scott Roth- references to Picasso’s Cubism, to my eyes it is even more multi-layered
kopf, opening to the public on June 27. It will be historic in many and pleasurable than Koons’s other mega-hit Puppy—which also has its
ways. Spreading out just over 27,000 square feet—in all the museum’s own soil and internal irrigation system to take care of the fowers. Mean-
88 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
S TUDIO SYS TEM
The painting section of Koons’s studio, where assistants
work on canvases for his “Antiquity” series. Paintings are stippled
in sections and then hand-painted. To achieve his vision, Koons
employs 128 people at his studio: 64 in the painting department, 44 in
the sculpture department, 10 in the digital department, and 10 in
administration. That’s to say nothing of the specialists, fabricators,
and institutions he consults, including most recently M.I.T.’s
Center for Bits and Atoms, led by Neil Gershenfeld.
while, at the Louvre, in January 2015, Koons will install a selection of
his large-scale balloon sculptures, including Balloon Rabbit, Balloon
Swan, and Balloon Monkey, in the 19th-century galleries. 2009–11; $33.8 million for the stainless-steel Jim Beam–J.B. Turner
T
Train, 1986; $58.4 million for Balloon Dog (Orange), 1994–2000, the
he last time I wrote about Koons for this magazine, highest price ever paid for a work by a living artist.
in 2001, he was in a very diferent place, having just How Koons managed to go from obscurity to white-hot to near
gone to hell and back, not only in the efort to pull ruin and then back again to the pinnacle is a classic American tale
of a fercely ambitious project, “Celebration,” which of self-invention, ingenuity, and unbreakable will, not to mention a
he had begun in 1993, but in his personal life as well. genius for salesmanship and spin.
He’d basically lost everything except his faith in his The artist comes by his talent for salesmanship honestly. When
art. At the time, I thought how unrufed Koons was, how most peo- I visited him this spring at his farm, in south-central Pennsylvania
ple would have been hysterical in his situation. But as Gary McCraw, (which had once been owned by his maternal grandparents, Nell
Koons’s loyal right-hand man, says, “Jef does not like being stuck— and Ralph Sitler, and which he bought back in 2005, as a country
he fgures out what needs to change.” Koons’s cool paid of. He ex- place for his family), Koons took me to the cemetery in nearby East
tricated himself from a number of business relationships that clearly Prospect, where his mother’s side of the family is buried. Parked
weren’t working and returned to his original home at the Sonnabend in front of a row of headstones with the name “Sitler” carved into
Gallery. He took a detour from the struggle to complete his “Cel- them, Koons read the frst names and told me what each of his male
ebration” sculptures and paintings, and created several new series, relatives had done. Most were merchants. His uncle Carl Sitler had a
including a couple of painting shows and animal-shaped refecting cigar business; his uncle Roy Sitler owned the general store; and on
wall reliefs (“Easyfun” and “Easyfun-Ethereal”). Skip ahead a dozen it went. The artist’s father, Henry Koons, was an interior decorator
or so years, to today, and the change in Koons’s circumstances is whose business catered to the most afuent citizens of York, which
almost beyond belief. He is a superstar for a consortium of three back then was thriving as a small industrial hub.
powerful galleries—Gagosian, David Zwirner, and Sonnabend—each The young Koons ft right in. In addition to helping his dad—even
of which works with him independently, and, astonishing as it may making paintings that would end up in his furniture store—he loved
sound, his earlier high prices now sound like fat-out bargains. A few selling ribbons and bows and gift wrap door-to-door and also Cokes
examples of his auction sales prices, totaling $177 million over the at the local golf course. “Everyone else would sell Kool-Aid, but I
past year: $28.2 million for the mirror-polished stainless-steel Popeye, would sell Coca-Cola in a really nice jug,” Koons recalls. “I would
JU LY 2 014 www.vanityfair.com VA NIT Y FAIR 89
VEILED REFERENCE
Koons alongside
an unfnished sculpture,
Gazing Ball (Farnese
Hercules), 2013.
K
Striving Artist where he saved money from a job as a political canvasser.
W
oons’s job at MoMA gave him the opportunity
to immerse himself in the history of modernism, hat came next, upon his return to New York,
in particular the ideas of Marcel Duchamp, who was the game changer: his “Equilibrium” se-
changed art history by showing how everyday ob- ries. He was working once again in the high-
jects, or “readymades,” could be elevated into the pressure world of fnance, this time trading
realm of art, depending on context. Duchamp’s commodities, but by night he was cooking
theories were a revelation to Koons. While at MoMA he started to fool up what would turn out to be his frst coup.
around with a bunch of cheap infatables, blowups of fowers and bun- Involving a dark, Nietzschean worldview, it was almost the opposite of
nies, rifng on Duchamp’s idea of readymades and propping them the cheerful Koonsian iconography people have grown accustomed
against mirrors in his apartment. “The sexual power of the imagery to. Take two works from 1985: a cast-bronze scuba apparatus, which he
was so intoxicating to me visually that I had to have a drink,” he re- called Aqualung, and a bronze Lifeboat. It’s immediately obvious they
members. “I went to Slugger Ann’s, Jackie Curtis’s grandmother’s bar.” aren’t going to save anyone. Instead they’ll take you down.
The reference to Curtis ties Koons to the last true avant-garde—a The “Equilibrium” works were exhibited in 1985 in Koons’s frst
pedigree the artist likes. Curtis, who refused to be called a drag queen, solo show, at International with Monument, a short-lived, artist-run
was a pioneer of the L.G.B.T. movement and, like Candy Darling, was gallery in the East Village. Dakis Joannou, a Greek collector, who
made famous by Warhol. Koons clearly relishes the fact that he and would become an important champion of the artist’s, was stunned
Warhol are often discussed in the same breath these days, but in fact, when he saw the show. “I was so intrigued with the basketball piece,
as artists and personalities, they couldn’t be more diferent. Warhol One Ball Total Equilibrium Tank,” he remembers. “I wanted to buy
FERTILE MIND
Koons and his wife,
J UST IN E KOO NS ’ S MA K E UP BY E L A IN E MA DE L ON;
Justine, with
their children at their
Pennsylvania
F OR D E TAI LS , G O TO VF. COM/ C R E D ITS
92 VAN IT Y FA IR
PULL YOURSELF TOGETHER AND GET ON WITH YOUR LIFE.’ ”
T
the art equivalent of what the Beatles had done.
oday this work is fnally getting its due. Happily, Koons
K
Heaven Couldn’t Wait couldn’t destroy as much of it as he tried to—because
oons always captures the Zeitgeist, for better or it was so well constructed. (The Whitney will include
for worse, so there is a perfect logic to the “Made some of it—with the usual not-for-minors warning.)
in Heaven” series, which he exhibited at Son- “‘Made in Heaven’ is just mind-blowing,” says
nabend in the fall of 1991, a period in which sex Dan Colen, one of the most talented artists of the
went from under the counter to center stage be- generation that came after Koons. “It was a border-less, boundary-
cause of aids. What Koons did was the hetero- less body of work. There was no separation between the artist’s life
sexual equivalent of Robert Mapplethorpe’s taboo-busting images of and his work. What he did is beyond Duchamp, beyond Warhol, be-
men having sex together—in fact, Koons’s paintings and sculptures, yond the readymade.” Some might say it was also beyond reason and
created out of wood, marble, glass, and canvases photomechani- beyond the market, but this is not a guy who compromises his art,
cally printed with oil inks, include some of the most graphic sexual ever. Homem sums it up: “Jef would throw me out of the window for
imagery ever produced in Western art that went public. It’s impos- his art, but he would throw himself out the window with me, as well,
sible to imagine this work without its leading lady, Ilona Staller, bet- without a second thought. He is the most romantic artist I ever met.”
ter known as La Cicciolina (translated as the “little dumpling”), an By now the head-spinning details of the Koons-Staller afair are
only-in-Italy personage, whom Koons met after he saw her picture art-world legend. In a nutshell, Staller wanted to keep her X-rated
in a magazine as a model. Almost immediately they got up close porn-star job, and Koons wanted her to stick to their marriage vows.
and personal. The Hungarian-born Staller—a former porn star/ To make matters more complicated, the couple had a son, Ludwig,
erotic-video icon/politician—has so far been Koons’s only human in October 1992. After Maria Callas–worthy drama, Staller blindsided
readymade, and, being human, she had issues. Koons by outsmarting one of the bodyguards whom Koons had hired
The paintings Koons created of the two of them feature penetra- to watch her, and she left for Rome with Ludwig. Koons spent more
tion, both anal and vaginal, and liberal amounts of semen. Discuss- than a decade and millions of dollars trying to get his son back, to no
ing one of the most no-holes-barred pictures, Koons says, “What I avail. He would fy to Rome to see Ludwig, but once he was there the
really like about it are the pimples on Ilona’s ass. The confdence to visits would usually fall through. He was basically shut out of his son’s
reveal one’s ass like that. That’s like my reference to Courbet’s The life. So he poured his emotions into his “Celebration” series, begun
Origin of the World.” And he’s not kidding. in 1993, as a way to tell his son just how much his father was miss-
I
involved with the Interna-
tional Centre for Missing &
Exploited Children, and to-
gether they later formed the
Koons Family Institute on International Law & Policy. At a certain n The Better Angels, a film about the very young Abe
point Koons was re-united with his daughter Shannon, who’d been Lincoln, Diane Kruger plays the part of Sarah Lincoln,
born when Koons was in college and put up for adoption; they now the 16th president’s stepmother, a frontierswoman
have a close relationship. In 2002 he married Justine Wheeler, an art- whose homespun good sense is said to have been
ist and former assistant in his studio. Today pictures of their own kids formative in his pre-log-splitting days. It was a tough
along with those of Ludwig and Shannon dot the Koons households. role, says Kruger, with a lot of “improvisation, hanging out in the
A
woods, and scenes playing against amateur-actor children who
t the height of his crisis Koons’s funding was de- did not know what the film is about.” The German-born actress
pleted, and over time he had to let go of more than (Diane Heidkrüger, originally) was not the obvious choice for
70 assistants. Furthermore, in 1999, the I.R.S. fled such a role. “Actually, it’s one of the reasons they cast me,” she
a $3 million tax lien. On many days Koons, his says. “Americans way back then were early settlers with more
studio manager McCraw, and Wheeler, who was European looks.” Euro or otherwise, Kruger says that her looks
then becoming closer to the artist, had the studio to (she’s a former runway model) have been an issue in her career.
themselves. Their strategy for saving “Celebration” ultimately worked. A New York Times review in the wake of her portrayal of Helen
“One big problem at the beginning was that Jef would start making a in the 2004 Brad Pitt epic Troy noted that she “looks too beau-
work without really having a clear idea of how he could complete it,” tiful to play a role of any substance.” After that, Kruger took on
explains Homem. “Problems would occur in which everything would a diverse series of higher-brow, differently accented roles (nota-
{
stop. Although his pieces still take years bly the Dietrich-esque Bridget von Hammersmark in Inglourious
to make, fortunately there is less of that.” @vf.com Basterds; a Bosnian immigrant in Unknown, opposite Liam Nee-
Eventually, thanks to dogged belief, a new WATCH BE H IN D - son; and Marie Antoinette in Farewell, My Queen). Now, with her
THE -S CENES VID E O
model of working (not to mention forces of FROM THE KOO N S credentials unquestioned and her versatility almost unmatched—
nature like Gagosian and Sonnabend), and S TUD IO. she is perhaps the only Hollywood star who loops her own parts
GO TO VF.CO M/
a lot of problem solving, the “Celebration” JULY2014.
in French, German, and English—Kruger has added a steely TV
works slowly began to see the light of day. detective to her repertoire, as Sonya Cross, an icy cop with As-
A fundamental problem with the “Celebration” series was perger’s syndrome, in the FX series The Bridge, returning next
that the fabricating processes and the technology had not month for a second season. Kruger says the heroine she plays
caught up with Koons’s visions. These C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 1 1 5 gives her plenty of dramatic challenges, but just when she was
getting used to working with auteurs, such as Tarantino, she had
to adjust to “the pace of episodic TV,” she says. “I enjoy it,” she
adds. “It’s like a long movie. It has its advantages, but the change
DUCHAMP, BEYOND WARHOL.” of director each week is still something I have to get used to. It
has not been an easy adjustment for me.” — M AT T T Y R N AU E R
JU LY 2 014 PH OTOGRA PH BY NORMAN JEAN ROY 95
Spotlight
VALLI GUYS
R
ock ’n’ roll was never really Clint Eastwood’s jam. “I
went through the 50s and 60s,” the 84-year-old Oscar-
winning director says, “but I never really dug it. I was
always a rhythm-and-blues guy. I was a jazz freak. But it
seemed like the Four Seasons’ songs were a cut above.”
Now Eastwood is giving Jersey Boys, the Tony-winning musical
based on the 1960s vocal group that vaulted to stardom on Frankie
Valli’s stratospheric falsettos, the Hollywood treatment. Featuring many
of the Four Seasons’ chart toppers—“Sherry,” “Big Girls Don’t Cry,”
96 VAN IT Y FA IR www.vanityfair.com JULY 2 014
PRO DU C E D ON LOC ATI ON BY P ORT FOL IO ON E ; F OR D E TA IL S, G O TO V F. COM/ C R E D ITS
COSTUME S DE S IG N E D BY D E BOR A H HOPP E R; HA IR BY TE R RY BA L IE L A N D C A ROL A .
O’ CONN E L L; MAK E U P BY MICHE LL E V IT TON E -M c N E IL ; S E T DE S I GN BY PE TE R K LE IN ;
Erich Bergen,
Clint Eastwood, John
Lloyd Young, Vincent
Piazza, and Michael
Lomenda, photographed
on the back lot at
Warner Bros. Studio, in
Burbank, California.
“Walk Like a Man,” “December, 1963 (Oh, What a Night)”—the band telling his version of events. John Lloyd Young, who originated
show opened on Broadway in 2005 and is still running Stateside and the role of Valli on Broadway, plays him again in the film. Michael
in London’s West End, while various productions tour the globe. (On Lomenda and Erich Bergen, touring-company vets, portray original
Broadway alone, the show has made nearly $500 million in revenue.) members Nick Massi and Bob Gaudio (the group’s principal song-
Eastwood hadn’t yet seen the play when he was approached writer), and Boardwalk Empire alum Vincent Piazza is Tommy De-
to direct the movie version. “The fact that I didn’t know too much Vito, the streetwise group founder. (Christopher Walken appears as
about it made me want to delve into it,” he says. The film, out June a Jersey mobster.)
20, adheres to the structure of the stage show; it is divided into four “It’s just a lot of good songs,” Eastwood says. “You go home
segments representing the four seasons, with each member of the humming a different one every night.” — KRISTA SMITH
“THERE IS NO JOB
SO TOUGH YOU COULDN’T DO IT,” IKE SAID.
100 VAN IT Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
ON THE TOWN
The Luces at a
Broadway opening
in 1935, the
year they married.
Opposite, Clare
by Vanity Fair
artist Miguel
Covarrubias. 101
2
ALF RED EISEN STAEDT /T IME & LIF E PI CTU RES/ G ETT Y IMAG ES (5 ) , A NDRÉ KÉRTÉSZ/
COND É N AST ARCHIVE (4 ), F ROM T HE LOND ON EVENI NG STA N DA RD/SO L O
SY N DICAT ION /Z UMA PR ESS (2), © UPPA/ PHOTOSH OT (7 ), © USIS-DITE/
1
LIFE ON TOP
(1) General
Dwight Eisenhower
and Clare, 1944.
(2) Lady Jeanne
Campbell, Henry’s other
love, in London, 1963.
(3) Clare at the house
in Phoenix,
1959. (4) Sugar Hill,
the Luces’ house in
Ridgefield, Connecticut.
(5) Henry and Clare
playing croquet, 1936.
(6) Clare with
Henry and Greek
shipping magnate
Stavros Niarchos, 1956.
(7) Clare, with
Henry, arrives as
ambassador to
Italy on the Andrea
Doria, 1953.
www.vanityfair.com
www.vanityfair.com VV A
ANN II TT Y F A I R 1
003
0
esty and cited three benefits he might gain
in choosing her. First, he would gratify the
millions of Catholics who had voted for him;
second, her appointment would save him from
having to send another of her faith to the Vat-
ican; and, third, every female in the electorate
“would be pleased that a woman had finally
got a number one diplomatic post.” Left un-
spoken was her dismay at the growing pres-
ence of Communists in Italy’s government
and industries.
E
isenhower hedged. He won-
dered if she might have a
second choice, such as Mexi-
co. “You could do a splendid
job for me there.” Clare said
lamely that it might be an
easier commute. Still probing, Ike asked how
her husband would feel about her going to
Italy. She admitted that they had discussed
it, and Harry liked the idea. Time Inc. had
a bureau in the Eternal City, so he could
visit her and run his business from there.
She did not have to remind Eisenhower that
with their combined wealth they had ample
means to finance the entertaining expected
in a prime ambassadorial spot.
He brought the discussion to an end
without committing himself, but gave her a
caution that sounded like encouragement.
“Please don’t discuss this with Foster.” John
Foster Dulles, as Clare knew, was his choice
as secretary of state, and, as a staunch Pres-
byterian, was unlikely to favor a Catholic
woman in the Rome embassy.
“Let me wangle it, and be
patient,” Ike said. FRIEND OF
As if on cue, Dulles entered.
PRESIDENTS
Clare in the Luces’
After a brief chat, she left Fifth Avenue
with the impression that if he apartment, 1964.
agreed to have her in his diplo- Inset, a 1942 letter
from Clare to
naval ensign
John F. Kennedy.
JULY 2 014
L ARGE PHOTOG R AP H BY N E A L BOE N ZI /T HE N EW YO R K TIM ES/
R E D UX ; I N SET F ROM THE JOHN F. KENNEDY PERSONAL PAPERS/
JOHN F. KENNEDY PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM
HARRY
www.vanityfair.com
GRANDDAUGHTER OF LORD BEAVERBROOK.
CONFESSED
HE HAD BEEN SLEEPING WITH JEANNE CAMPBELL,
VA NIT Y FAI R
105
HARRY CAME HOME TO FIND THAT CLARE HAD
TAKENOFAN OVERDOSE
SODIUM AMYTAL.
matic corps she would get her heart’s desire. jority, Clare felt compelled to resign the post. guru Swami Prabhavananda, and after World
In a letter that night, Clare shared every Far from being cast down, she embarked at War II had emerged as something of a guru
detail with Harry, who was on a business age 56 on an exhilarating new experience. himself, founding the monastery-like Trabuco
trip to Asia. Seeking to assuage whatever College of Prayer, in the Santa Ana Mountains.
A
disappointment he might feel at not having Sex, Lies, and Hallucinogens His interest in liberating “the inner man”
been favored himself, she told him that she t 11:25 a.m. on May 16, 1959, had led him in 1954 to experiment with Hux-
disliked the prospect of their having to pur- at Sugar Hill, the Luces’ 20- ley in taking mescaline, a psychedelic deriva-
sue separate careers on diferent sides of the room, Georgian-style house tive of cactus plants. The following year he had
Atlantic. “The awful apartness … fills me in Ridgefield, Connecticut, moved on to experiment with LSD. Not being
with panic, vertigo, anguish beyond reason Clare took 100 micrograms an accredited scientist or physician, Heard
when I contemplate it.” They must thrash it of lysergic acid diethylam- had to obtain his supplies from a friend, Dr.
out as soon as he returned—the implication ide. Two friends from California, the writer- Sidney Cohen, chief of psychosomatic medi-
being that she hoped Harry would reassure philosopher Gerald Heard and his musician cine at the Veterans Administration Hospital
her that their marriage could stand the partner, Jay Michael Barrie, supervised the in Los Angeles. The doctor was administering
strain. In the meantime, “my poor, thirsty dose. It was her third experience in three a federal program to investigate the drug’s po-
little (no, big) ego has had the healing months with LSD, as the new hallucinatory tential in treating psychotics and criminals but
draught it needed most᠁ I am so very drug was known. was also interested in its efect on creative and
happy because I feel recognized, appreciat- By 11:55 she was gazing out the window highly intelligent people, such as Clare Luce.
F
ed, wanted … by the one man whose recog- “with great stillness and intensity,” Barrie noted
nition and appreciation matter most in poli- as recorder. They had been listening to Sibelius’s eeling revitalized after three
tics.” In a dozen ways, she added, Ike had Symphony No. 2, and when it ended, Clare mostly pleasant acid trips, Clare
made it clear that “in honoring the wife, he said, still staring at her lawns and fowering dog- began a three-month literary so-
sought to honor and please the husband!” wood trees, “It’s hard to tell whether the music journ on the Caribbean island
She reminded Harry, in a postscript, of his was accompanying that out there, or that out of St. John. Her intent was to
importance around the globe. “Gosh dar- there was accompanying the music.” work on her memoirs, but she
ling, in the tragic environs of Korea and For- At 12:10 she protested that Stravinsky’s found introspection into her painful past daunt-
mosa, does all this sound—trivial and selfish? Renard was “a vast intrusion” on her con- ing and got no further than a brief outline. She
And irrelevant?” templation and should be turned of. “The gave up in favor of writing a detective novel set
After years of marital crises and exhaust- trees, if they knew what they were doing, in Brazil, and at first the prose fowed efort-
ing reconciliations, their mutual support of would be making their own music᠁ The lessly. She told Heard that her facility must be
Eisenhower and shared interest in Cold War colors are beginning to separate themselves due to the prolonged efects of LSD.
politics boded salvation for them both. They into all their exquisite subtleties.” Letters arrived at the island from Father
were now in a position to try to infuence Soon her mood changed again, and she John Courtney Murray, professor of Catho-
policy as well as comment on it. requested that a bowl of lilacs be brought to lic Trinitarian theology at Woodstock Col-
Her true excitement showed in a note to a her. She focused closely on the blossoms and lege, a Jesuit seminary in Maryland. He was
friend at Vogue: “Maggie, I want Italy more said, “Now I’m beginning to see the fowers Clare’s spiritual adviser. During her time in
than anything in my entire life.” breathe. It makes one yearn to see God.” Italy, he had also become a golfing buddy
On December 17, 1952, Clare heard that The sound of an automobile horn outside and confidant of Harry’s, and now wrote to
she had been nominated Ambassador Extraor- announced the arrival of Harry for lunch. “I say that her husband was experiencing an
dinary and Plenipotentiary to the Republic of shall leave you three to wrestle with the spa- unspecified emotional crisis.
Italy. As the frst woman ever to hold such an ghetti,” Clare said. While the men ate, she On September 19, on the first of what
important diplomatic post, she spent three remained on the porch, drinking a cup of Clare described as several “agonized nights”
and a half years in Rome and distinguished broth. Then she went out, spread a blanket of marital confrontation, Harry confessed
herself there despite opposition from chauvin- on the lawn, and lay down. that for the past three years he had been see-
ists in her own embassy as well as Commu- By 6:15 the efects of her trip had worn of. ing and sleeping with Lady Jeanne Campbell,
nists in Italian industry and the government. She joined her husband and guests for dinner granddaughter of the British press mogul
Her major achievement was to help settle the and the kind of cerebral conversation with Ger- Lord Beaverbrook.
intractable Trieste crisis, which threatened to ald that she relished. She had met him in 1947, Now 30, Jeanne was a more mature version
bring about war between Italy and Marxist while working on a screenplay in Hollywood, of the tall, peachy-cheeked 20-year-old Clare
Yugoslavia. In 1959, Eisenhower appointed and had been captivated by his Anglo-Irish remembered from staying with Beaverbrook
her ambassador to Brazil, but in the congres- charm, erudition, and spirituality. The author in Jamaica in 1949. Since the young woman’s
sional hearing to approve her, she crossed of more than 30 books on science, religion, parents had divorced early, she had seldom
swords with the truculent senator Wayne philosophy, and Eastern mysticism, Heard had lived at Inveraray Castle, the ancestral home
Morse, of Oregon, who opposed her so aggres- immigrated to America with Aldous Huxley in of her father, Ian Campbell, Duke of Argyll,
sively that, although confrmed by a large ma- 1937. He had become a devotee of the Hindu in Scotland’s Western Highlands. Instead, she
106 VAN IT Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
WORLD DIPLOMAT
Clare in 1956,
when she was the
U.S. ambassador
in Rome.
O
When they were apart, which was often, expect. Yet he admitted in the same breath
because the Luces now had a winter home in to sufering from “post coitus triste.” Clare n the weekend of October
Phoenix, Arizona, Harry wrote, telephoned, attributed this sadness not only to Calvinist 10, as Harry discussed his
and sent so many dozens of roses that Jeanne guilt but also to egotistic regret that the pos- marital options with his sis-
ran out of vases. session of his partner had been rushed or in- ter Beth and brother-in-law
On March 15, 1959, afraid Harry might complete. “Orgasm,” she told him, was not Tex Moore, an attorney, the
be happy to continue indefinitely with their “the sole and final end of sex᠁ There can two women vying for his af-
irregular, clandestine couplings, Jeanne pro- be in one gentle kiss, one generous caress, fection addressed urgent appeals to him.
posed marriage. She felt an urgent need to one entwining of fingers more sexuality than Jeanne Campbell cabled from London: “Lots
have children, and asked that he try to allevi- in a whole whorehouse.” of anyway [sic] love and thoughts for my be-
ate what he called his sexual “inadequacy” As the confrontation wore on, Clare sus- loved grumpy growly friend᠁ Think and
by having his prostate fixed. She then left for pected that Harry saw her as his jailer and think hard. Your Jay.”
Europe, setting a deadline of July 15 for him wanted her dead. He intuited her misery Clare wrote him from San Francisco,
to accept or reject her proposal. If the former, and, in a conciliatory gesture, took her in his where she was making a Columbus Day
she expected him to begin at least separation arms. He said “a love deeper than love” ex- speech. She ofered a significant concession.
proceedings. Harry agreed to her proposal in isted between them. “I can never leave you, Though she had “a legal hold” on him, she
writing and went ahead with the operation. if you cannot bear it.” did not wish to exercise it. “You are free to
C
The following night, Harry had a collo- marry Jeanne or not—as you choose. If this
lare now discovered that he quy with Father Murray. He said he could is the only way for me to prove that under-
had been dallying with his not forsake “this pitiful woman,” and might neath it all I bear you more goodwill and love
“girl” during a business trip have to “sacrifice” Jeanne for his wife’s than I have ever borne anyone—you have that
to Paris, on the assumption “greater need.” proof. I could not face the declining years of
that the Luces could agree to On Saturday, September 26, in a state of ex- my life with you, knowing that you shared
a separation pending divorce. hausted armistice, the Luces were having din- them with me only as a prisoner.”
In a further blow, Harry announced that ner à deux at Sugar Hill when Harry was sum- She knew Jeanne was due back in New
he had not really loved her for 20 years and moned to the telephone. The caller was Igor York and said that, since Harry would prob-
had stuck with her primarily because he was Cassini, alias the gossip columnist “Cholly ably want to see the young woman, she
“sorry” for her. But since she had seemed “so Knickerbocker,” of the New York Journal- would await his decision in Phoenix.
well, so happy, so confident” lately, he felt that American—William Randolph Hearst’s big- Clare next heard that Harry had “capitu-
he too “had the right to happiness.” gest scandal sheet. Cassini asked Harry to lated” to his family’s insistence that a divorce
His betrayal and condescension were bad comment on reports that he and his wife were was far too drastic a solution. It would threat-
enough, but as Clare absorbed the longevity separating. en his children’s inheritance and damage his
of his deceit, her fury grew. For two decades Taken aback, Harry said, “Clare and I are reputation as a person of probity. The ensu-
the man standing before her had feigned impo- here together. It is all very premature, to say ing scandal might alienate millions of Catho-
tence, when all along it had been his revulsion the least.” After a short pause, during which lics sympathetic to Clare and adversely af-
LOVE AS EQUALS.”
108 VAN IT Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
Spotlight
fect the value of Time Inc. stock. His lawyer
therefore recommended a legal separation.
ROMA CONQUEST
Logistically, the moment for such a move
was ripe, because the Luces had sold their
52nd Street duplex and were about to take an-
other apartment at the Waldorf Towers. How-
ever they resolved the question of who might
occupy it, Harry would have legal freedom
to be with his mistress whenever he wanted,
while his wife could depend on financial
support to continue in her customary style.
Although Clare had promised to accept
any decision Harry made, the prospect of his
fying to Arizona with actual documents for her
to sign was apparently too much to bear. While
he was en route, she swallowed a large quantity
of sleeping pills. As fate—or her own survival in-
stinct—would have it, Father Murray was stay-
ing with her and called for emergency help.
By the time Harry arrived, she was recu-
perating. He now had to face the possibility
of a recurrence, should he go ahead with the
separation plan. So when a newsman called
on October 19, asking about reports that he
was in Phoenix to break with his wife, he said,
“There’s nothing to it, this report of divorce.”
Later that morning, when he returned to
the Phoenix airport, Clare was at his side.
Harry called Jeanne and told her to leave
New York at once. He was afraid of his wife’s
fragile emotional condition. “I don’t care
where you go, but get out of town.”
On November 6, the Luces left for a week in
Hawaii, where Harry was opening a Time Inc.
ST Y LE D BY DE B OR A H A F SHA N I ; H A IR P RO DUC TS BY R EN E F URT E RE R ; M A KE UP P RO DUC TS A ND NA I L E N AME L BY CHANE L; HAI R BY CHRI STI AN MARC ;
Moran Atias,
office. Before the war, they had been enchant- photographed in
MA K EU P BY F IO N A ST IL E S; MA N I CUR E BY N ET TI E DAVI S ; P RO DU CE D O N L O CAT I ON BY VI EW F IN DE RS ; FOR D ETAI L S, GO TO VF.CO M/C RE DI TS
S
ATIAS WEARS A DRESS BY
‘
could swim and surf. His search had been un- PRABAL GURUNG; EARRINGS
BY TIFFANY & CO.;
successful. They agreed to look again, seeing NECKLACE BY BULGARI;
RING BY CARTIER.
it as a fresh venture for them both. Before they
headed for the mainland, Harry told Clare
that he “no longer wanted a divorce” and pre- ometimes you start believing the way society treats you. Gypsies are
ferred to “go down the long road” with her. treated like dirt, so you believe you’re dirt,” Israeli-born actress Moran
I
Atias declares boldly. To prepare for her role as Monika in this sum-
n February 1960, Gerald Heard mer’s romantic drama Third Person (written and directed by Paul Hag-
and Jay Michael Barrie joined gis, and co-starring Liam Neeson and Olivia Wilde), Atias begged on
Clare in Phoenix for what the streets of Rome and didn’t change or wash her clothes for weeks, experiencing
Heard described as a “wonder- firsthand rejection and disgust as a result.
ful week” of LSD. This time the It was while filming a small role in The Next Three Days with Haggis that Atias knew
experiments were scientifically she wanted to be cast in another of the director’s projects. “I hung out on the set of The
administered by Sidney Cohen himself. Next Three Days and just followed Paul around,” she says. “I thought, I have to work
Harry too took a dose—his first. He
with this filmmaker again.”
was slow to “gain orbit,” but when he did,
“Moran started pitching ideas at me,” he recalls, adding, “At the end of filming we
he sauntered out into the garden, where he
sat down and talked very specifically and honestly about relationships, and I began to
claimed to hear beautiful music. Standing
among cactus plants, he began conducting an think, What if two totally wrong people could actually be right for each other?”
orchestra visible and audible only to himself. Haggis admits he took a chance casting her. “I like finding roles where actors can
For once, Clare did not have a happy expe- surprise you,” he says. “Moran’s an extremely beautiful woman; she oozes sexuality.
rience with the drug. She imagined that Co- But she was untested, and this was a huge role. I thought, Maybe she can pull it off—an
hen had “held up a mirror” to her, and she Albanian Gypsy who survives by her wits, speaks three languages, uses men.”
so disliked what she saw—“a rejected, jailed Three different cities. Three love stories that intertwine in a way you don’t expect. Third Per-
woman”—that she cried in front of him. son is, Atias says, “profoundly personal and revealing about who we are in regard to love.”
Before returning to New York, Harry swore Haggis says choosing Atias to play Monika certainly paid off: “I’m very happy that this is go-
on the Bible that it was his “solemn intention” ing to be Moran’s breakout performance. She’s a force of nature.” —TA M ASIN DAY- LE WIS
JU LY 2 014 PH OTOGRA PH BY JAN WELTERS 109
KENNEDY SAID HE DISLIKED HAVING
CLARE LUCE TELL HIM “HOW TO
I
to congratulate him on his “astonishing abili- last-minute challenge by Senator Lyndon B. Clare at Camelot
ty to get everyone … to see things your way.” Johnson. “We stand today on the edge of a n early October 1960, John Kenne-
At the end of a nine-day Caribbean vaca- New Frontier,” the charismatic young candi- dy’s Catholicism became a potential-
tion, Clare re-united with Harry in New York date said, “the frontier of the 1960s.” ly serious liability in his election cam-
for the Memorial Day weekend. She soon A week after that, Randolph boozily invei- paign against Richard Nixon. Clare
found out that he had been lying to her about gled himself into a dinner Clare was attending received a call from an agitated Joe
breaking off completely with Jeanne Camp- with the former heavyweight boxing cham- Kennedy, asking her “to do Jack a
bell. In fact, he had taken her from Paris for a pion Gene Tunney, at the new Four Seasons big favor.” He complained that, everywhere his
week-long car tour of Switzerland. This revela- restaurant, on Park Avenue. She managed son held a rally, swarms of nuns were settling in
tion, plus another—that he had told Jeanne he to have him seated far from her, because of the front seats, “clicking their rosaries and their
“would marry her” if he ever got a divorce— his habit of loudly proposing marriage every dentures” in excitement. Joe thought Cardinal
led to long hours of acrimonious argument, time they met. To avoid having him escort her Spellman might be able to do something
with Clare yet again trying to get Harry to say home, she slipped out early, on the pretext of about it, but he could not approach His Emi-
what he wanted, and he, as was his habit, ask- going to the ladies’ room. But in the street, as nence. “The S.O.B. hates me. I beat him out
ing her to decide what he should do. By late she hailed a taxi, Randolph came fying out, of some real estate,” he said, chuckling. “But
Monday night, both of them were exhausted, pursued by Tunney, and jumped into the cab you could tell him, tactfully, that if he wants a
and she went to bed. Around 12 o’clock, he with her. It moved of, and Tunney ran along- Catholic in the White House, he’d better keep
came into her room and said portentously, “It side, shouting to the driver, “I am Gene Tun- those goddam nuns from hogging all the front
is God’s will. You are the cross I have to bear.” ney. You get this lady back to the Waldorf at rows. This isn’t an ordination—it’s an election!”
At the end of her tether, Clare picked up once, safely, or you will be hearing from me!” Nixon, too, was concerned about the reli-
the telephone. She dialed the Waldorf’s As Tunney fell behind, Clare became gious question and asked Clare for advice on
Western Union office and dictated a telegram: aware that Randolph was moaning. “What’s how to “keep it out of the campaign as much
the matter with you?” she asked. “I’m going as possible.” He had read that 25 percent of
jeanne campbell, inveraray castle, ar- to sue,” he said. In the chase out of the res- the voters in Akron, Ohio, were for him be-
gyll, scotland. harry says that he wishes taurant, Tunney had apparently given him a cause they were anti-Catholic. It followed that
to marry you and that he will soon be in
kidney punch. others might be against him because he was
the position to do so. congratulations.
clare luce.
She shot out at the Waldorf and, leaving a Quaker.
Randolph to pay, headed upstairs, telling the As a friend and co-religionist of the Ken-
Harry, outwitted and furious, called the op- desk clerk not to admit Mr. Churchill under nedys’, Clare was rumored to be a J.F.K.
erator back and asked her to cancel the wire. any circumstances. Randolph was reduced supporter. She did favor him, feeling that, al-
He was told that only the sender could do to phoning her and begging her to side with though he had less experience than Nixon, he
that, so he fired of one of his own: disre- him in the event that he brought suit against had “more capacity for growth in office and
gard telegram from clare. Tunney. She assured him that, on the con- would probably win.” However, on October 4
A month later Jeanne, trying to stay opti- trary, she would be a witness for Gene. she issued a statement saying that as a veteran
mistic, looked for a house in Jamaica where Farce quickly turned to near tragedy later of Republican politics she intended to vote for
she and Harry might live. She was therefore that night when Harry came home to find that the vice president.
fabbergasted to receive a letter from him, Clare had taken an overdose of sodium amytal. Choosing a candidate was not so easy for
telling her yet again they could not marry. In all likelihood, Randolph had told her with Henry Luce. As editor in chief of a hugely
He gave no explanation except to say that his usual blunt honesty that he was staying infuential news empire, he knew that his en-
Clare had made an “unserious” threat to with Lady Jeanne Campbell. The shocking dorsement was coveted by both candidates.
jump from their 41st-foor apartment. news that Jeanne was back in town—no doubt They vied with each other in professing strident
110 VAN IT Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
Spotlight
anti-Communist views, knowing Harry’s obses-
sion with the Cold War. He felt that Kennedy
PURE DYNAMITE
was more “imaginative” on for-
eign policy, and was tempted to
back him for that reason. He also
admired the young man’s social
sophistication and literary bent,
going as far as to write a new
foreword to Kennedy’s book
about appeasement in the 1930s,
Why England Slept. But having
given Nixon five favorable cover
stories in four years, he found it
hard to reject him now. So, in
mid-month, Life came out for the
Republican, but so halfheartedly
as not to spoil Kennedy’s chances
in November.
Clare went to Washington on
January 18, 1961, to attend the
inauguration of John Fitzgerald
Kennedy. Two days later she
climbed into an inaugural-ball
bus in a white satin Lanvin gown
and found herself sitting next to Chadwick Boseman
‘I
Vice President Johnson. She re- channels James Brown
minded him that when they had on the set of Get On Up
last met, just before the Demo- in Natchez, Mississippi.
cratic convention, he had been
confident of getting the presidential nomi-
wanna get . . . under your skin-uh; if I get there, I
nation and had profanely vowed that even if
got to win-uh.” As a statement of intent, this cou-
he lost there was “no way” he would take the
plet, from James Brown’s 1971 hit “Soul Power
second spot under J.F.K.
“Come clean, Lyndon,” she teased him. Pt. 1,” sums up the Godfather of Soul’s philoso-
He leaned close and whispered, “Clare, phy as well as any. No musician insinuated the
I looked it up. One out of every four presi- funk into American pelvises more deeply and comprehen-
dents has died in office. I’m a gamblin’ man, sively than Brown, who first charted in the 1950s and kept
darlin’, and this is the only chance I got.” performing nearly right up until his death, in 2006.
I
But how to get under James Brown’s skin-uh? That’s
n a February 1962 column for Mc- the challenge that director Tate Taylor (The Help) has
Call’s magazine, Clare answered a undertaken with Get On Up, the long-aborning biopic
reader’s question: “Do you think Mrs. (whose producers include Mick Jagger) about the famil-
Kennedy should be censured for buy- iar yet enigmatic singer, which opens in August. Taylor,
ing some of her clothes from Paris?” a Mississippian, tapped actor Chadwick Boseman, a
Her reply began innocuously native South Carolinian, to play Brown, who was born
enough. “The personal activities of the Presi- in South Carolina and raised just over the border in Au-
dent’s wife cannot be dissociated from her gusta, Georgia. The shared geographic roots were use-
role as First Lady.” But then she could not ful, Boseman says, in grasping the influences that shaped
resist parodying J.F.K.’s inaugural rhetoric. Brown: “the blues culture, the rich southern griot vernacu-
“She must not ask herself, ‘What can these lar,” as he puts it.
clothes do for me?’ but ‘What do these clothes Still, Boseman had to dig deeper to summon the quick-
I wear do for America?’ ”
silver James Brown spirit, especially given that Boseman
Her remarks caused a nationwide furor,
is neither physically nor temperamentally like Brown, a
with headlines such as clare boothe luce
spark plug who topped out at around five feet six inches
dresses down jackie kennedy and jackie
censured? luce fur flying. The White
in stacked heels. Six feet tall and dulcet of voice—traits
House announced that the First Lady’s that served him well when he played Jackie Robinson in
clothes were all American-made, except for last year’s 42—Boseman is satisfied that the work he’s put
a Givenchy gown she had worn in Paris “as a in (the thinking, the voice training, the practice splits) has
tribute to the French people.” resulted in a convincing portrayal.
Clare dismissed the uproar, saying, “Mrs. “It’s like pouring a glass of water. Whether you pour it
Kennedy would look gorgeous in a gunnysack.” into a tall glass or a short glass, it’s still the same water,”
The president, at any rate, was not ofend- he says. “If you pour the spirit of James Brown inside me,
ed. He wrote in March to invite Clare to sit it’s still gonna flow out.” — DAVID K A MP
in drag. Clare responded that, although the she could be openly tolerant of free sex and Clare Boothe Luce died in 1987, four years
cast was female, her script was really about adultery. “After a long life and a long night,” after she was awarded the Presidential Medal of
heterosexual men, because women of that she told the audience, “I think most men do Freedom by Ronald Reagan. �
era saw fulfillment in looking after them. All not know what love is, because they don’t ever
the panelists favored the three characters she love as equals, and the master never really loves
portrayed as amoral go-getters: Crystal (Joan the slave.” She seemed to have in mind the FROM THE ARCHIVE
For these related stories, visit VF.COM/ARCHIVE
Crawford), the husband stealer; Countess de theme of Slam the Door Softly, her parody of
Lave (Mary Boland), who used younger men Ibsen’s A Doll’s House. “To love an equal—it • Tales of Clare Boothe Luce
for sex; and Miriam (Paulette Goddard), the takes big men and big women.” (Marie Brenner, March 1988; Sylvia Jukes
Morris, May 1997)
seducer of the spouse of catty Sylvia (Rosa- The crowd enjoyed the debate so much that
• “The Great Garbo”
lind Russell). it lasted until 1:30 a.m. Clare had the last word: (Clare Boothe Brokaw, February 1932)
It was not surprising that Steinem, at 37 “I think Gloria and I would agree on most • The founding of Henry Luce’s empire
a glamorous icon of the new “women’s lib” things. But if we didn’t, we still could not air (Isaiah Wilner, October 2006; Alan Brinkley,
movement, should have such opinions. But them publicly᠁ It would be announced that May 2010)
Clare, at 68, had evolved to the point where we had had a hair-pulling contest.”
years has been the president and C.E.O. of ment systems—have 34-inch pitch in economy, • The age of the Concorde
(David Kamp, October 2003)
Etihad. He oversees a kind of boutique version 73 inches in business, and 80 inches in first,
• When flight attendants soared
of the Dubai airline, with similarly excellent in- the latter classes offering lie-flat beds. The (Bruce Handy, October 2002)
flight service, food and drink, and touch-screen mood, even as we prepare for takeof, is one • Dubai,a tale of two cities (Nick Tosches,
digital entertainment. Etihad also has serious of glamour and buoyancy. In a way, it reminds June 2006; A. A. Gill, April 2011)
designs on the American market. The airline me of Virgin Atlantic in its youthful heyday,
114 VAN IT Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
Jeff Koons Koons, including Kruger, will say, is that mon-
ey doesn’t interest him. He has three very per-
sonal luxuries: his home in New York City, the
ON THE
farm, and his collection of older art, which in- COVER
cludes Magrittes, Courbets, and Manets. The Shailene Woodley
farm, now expanded from 40 acres to approxi- wears a dress and shoes
by Saint Laurent by
mately 800, is almost a Koonsian artwork. The Hedi Slimane; earrings
buildings are painted in heritage red, yellow, by Eva Fehren. Hair
and white in the full-on tradition of the area. In products by Sunsilk.
Makeup products
the main house, historic wallpapers, the pat- by Chanel. Nail enamel
terns shifting from room to room, give the feel- by Deborah Lippmann. Hair by Teddy Charles.
ing of a kaleidoscope. But this farm is very Makeup by Tyron Machhausen. Manicure by
Deborah Lippmann. Set design by Thomas
much a private retreat for the family. Thurnauer. Styled by Jessica Diehl. Photographed
CON T I N U ED F ROM PAGE 95 evolving tech- In Koons’s public life there is no showy “I exclusively for V.F. by Miguel Reveriego in
nologies are so sophisticated and so much a am rich” stuf. Money is mostly a means to an New York City. For details, go to VF.com/credits.
part of the work that the Whitney devotes an end for him to create his art. What he does
entire chapter to them, written by Michelle need is wealthy patrons. Rothkopf, whose ret- a painter paints a painting or a sculptor makes
Kuo, the editor of Artforum, in the catalogue rospective is blessedly clear-eyed, puts it this a sculpture it is not complete unless a behold-
for the show. Reading about the CT scans, way: “If it is going to cost several million dol- er, a viewer, responds to it.”
structured-light scanning, volumetric data, cus- lars to produce new work, he has got to mar- Kandel adds, “When you looked at the
tomized software, and personalization of fab- tial the resources from wealthy patrons to pro- sculptures you saw yourself embedded in
rication technologies, I started to understand duce this thing. He has to convince extremely the gazing balls. Artists sometimes put mir-
why all those people are needed in Koons’s wealthy people, via art dealers, to buy into the rors in works, but they don’t design the work
studio. Most days there are 128 of them going dream of this perfect object.” so that you fnd yourself in the arms or chest
at it, some doing just what Michelangelo’s as- of a statue, which is what Jef did.”
sistants did, such as mixing colors, while oth-
ers seem to be doing lab work for advanced
degrees in radiology.
W hile Koons has continued to explore
popular imagery—such as the Hulk
and Popeye (whose spinach he equates with
When I was visiting the artist and his fam-
ily at their farm, and all of us—Jef, Justine,
and the kids—jumped into his Koonsmobile, a
Such a huge operation, combined with the art’s transformative power)—he has also been stretch van with a captain’s chair for every
achievement of perfection in the work, helps to producing other work in the last few years, child, he was the happiest I’d seen him in the
explain why Koons’s art costs so much to pro- both paintings and sculptures, that obviously 30 years since we frst met. He told me, “One
duce, and also what Koons has to do to pull it draw on his love of antiquity and classical art. of the things that I’m most proud of is making
of. Barbara Kruger, the artist whose unsenti- For last year’s knockout show, “Gazing Ball,” work that lets viewers not feel intimidated by
mental pronouncements have been cutting to at the David Zwirner gallery—the announce- art, but feel that they can emotionally partici-
the chase about the art world for decades, says ment of which temporarily caused the art- pate in it through their senses and their intel-
“Oh boy” when I call to discuss Koons, whom world gossips to venture that he was leaving lect and be fully engaged. And feel that they
she has known since they both were starting Gagosian, which wasn’t true—he collaborated can get a foothold in it, to push themselves of
out in New York. She needed to think about it with the Louvre’s plaster workshop, outside of of, and lift themselves up on.” As we drove
and later wrote me: “Jef is like the man who fell Paris, the Staatliche Museen’s Gipsformerei, through small industrial communities that had
to earth, who, in this grotesque time of art fip- in Berlin, and others. An expert in stone and defnitely seen better days, Koons pointed out
page and speculative mania, is either the icing casting at the Metropolitan Museum helped the ubiquitous garden ornaments in so many
on the cake or some kind of Piketty-esque formulate the custom plaster which Koons used front yards—the gazing balls, the inflatable
harbinger of the return of Brecht’s ‘making for the sculptures—a modern plaster as durable bunnies. It’s a Jef Koons world. �
strange.’ Or a glitteringly bent version of that as marble. Each work had an electric-blue gaz-
alienated vision. He brings the cake and lets ing ball—those glass globes that were a Venetian
them eat it.” Kruger’s reference to Thomas staple in the 13th century and re-popularized in FROM THE ARCHIVE
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Piketty, the French economist whose book on Victorian times—placed at a strategic spot.
the current chasm between the very rich and the Dr. Eric R. Kandel, a Nobel Prize–winning • Jeff Koons, kitsch connoisseur
very poor has become a cultural touchstone, neuroscientist, was so impressed with the (Mark Stevens, December 1989;
Anthony Haden-Guest, November 1991)
is part of the whole picture; this social reality is show that he e-mailed Koons afterward. I
• Jeff Koons, Pop’s heir
what one can’t help thinking about when one asked Kandel why. He explained, “I have (Ingrid Sischy, March 2001)
hears about the prices of contemporary art to- been interested in the ‘beholder’s share,’ an • Jeff Koons, super-yacht designer
day, especially the sums that Koons’s works are idea that came from the Viennese art historian (Mark Seal, November 2010)
fetching. The odd thing, as many who know Alois Riegl. It involves the concept that when
Willem
DAFOE
The prolific, Oscar-nominated actorÑwhose career has spanned films from
The English Patient to Finding Nemo, and now roles in this summer’s The Fault
in Our Stars and A Most Wanted ManÑadmits he thinks ambition is overrated