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Excl u s

i v e!
big-time poker
c o n f e s s i o n s o f a s h ow b i z
with
leo, ben & tobey !
gambling queen By molly bloom p . 78

special
issue!


The 20 th
Century’s Hollywood’s
greatest
adventuress next
wave!
(Not Another
Jackie Kennedy Story,
We Promise)

By sylvia jukes
m o r r i s p. 98

The 21 st
Century’s
greatest
Shailene
airport (Not New York’s
woodley
By
La Guardia, We Promise)

graham boynton Fresh Face,


p.68
Open Heart,
Bold Choices—A New
Kind of Stardom

plus:
23
more kids
turning the
movie business
on its ear
By krista smith p . 52
Photos by
miguel reveriego

“A moment of strength,
of romance, of glamour—of youth!”
{

—Joseph Conrad

michael kinsley on the thomas

J U LY 201 4
piketty craze p . 40

evgenia peretz on donna tartt ’s


‘ g o l d f i n c h’ backl ash p.44

ingrid sischy on
j e f f k o o n s and his
$177 million spl ash p . 8 6
78

JULY 2014 No. 647 VANI T Y FAIR .COM

FEATURES
52 THE NEXT WAVE By K R IS TA SMI T H
Since The Descendants, Shailene Woodley has been
on Hollywood’s fast track—from the Divergent franchise
to this month’s The Fault in Our Stars—yet she remains
completely herself. Plus: 23 youngsters headed for fame
on their own terms. Photographs by Miguel Reveriego.

66 V.F. PORTRAIT: DAVID BOIES


& THEODORE OLSON By L IONE L B A R BE R
Two superlawyers bridged a political chasm to fght
California’s ban on same-sex marriage. A year after
their Supreme Court win, a book and HBO special
tell their story. Photograph by Annie Leibovitz.

98 68 THE NEW JET AGE By GR A H A M BO Y N T ON


As Dubai International Airport increases its capacity to
75 million passengers a year—making it the world’s busiest
international hub—three Gulf-state airlines are putting
A B O V E : Clare Boothe Luce on Majorca, of the coast of Spain, 1962. glamour back in the skies. Photographs by Stephen Wilkes.
B E L O W : Jef Koons on a Balloon Dog, in his studio, 1997.
76 TO THE BANNER BORN Spotlight on Ralph Lauren,
the quintessentially American designer, as the Smithsonian
honors him. By Brian Williams. Photograph by Mark Seliger.

B OTTO M , BY EL L EN VO N UNW ERTH /TR UN K A RCHI VE . PH OTO I L L USTR ATI O N , TO P RI G HT, BY DA R ROW; FOR C RE DI TS, TURN TO PAGE 80
PH OTO GRA P HS : TO P L EF T, BY A L FR E D E I SE NSTA E DT/ TI ME & L I F E PI CT UR E S/G ET T Y I MAG ES , DI GI TA L CO L ORI ZATI ON BY LO RNA C L ARK ;
86
78 HER HOUSE OF CARDS By MOL LY BL OOM
In her 20s, the author ran Hollywood’s most exclusive poker
game, luring A-list names—Tobey, Ben, Leo—and their
millions to her table. In an adaptation from her memoir,
Bloom deals the dish on the biggest winners and losers.
Photo illustration by Darrow. Photograph by John Russo.

83 GoPRO, YOUNG MAN Spotlight on Nick Woodman,


surfer-dude-soon-to-turn-billionaire, thanks to his
GoPro mini video camera. By William Langewiesche.
Photograph by Jimmy Chin.

84 THE RIOT ACT Spotlight on Pussy Riot’s Nadya


Tolokonnikova and Masha Alyokhina, determined to
bring down Vladimir Putin. By Masha Gessen. Photograph
by Mark Seliger.

86 JEFF KOONS IS BACK! By INGR ID SISC H Y


With the Whitney Museum unveiling a massive Jeff
Koons retrospective, it’s hard to remember how the artist’s
life unraveled in the 90s. But from the depths to the
heights, Koons knows only one way to create: high-risk.
Photographs by Annie Leibovitz.

95 A PERFORMANCE WITH LEGS Spotlight on


Diane Kruger, as her FX series, The Bridge, starts a second
season. By Matt Tyrnauer. Photograph by Norman Jean Roy.

96 VALLI GUYS Spotlight on Clint Eastwood’s movie of


Jersey Boys. By Krista Smith. Photograph by Annie Leibovitz.

10 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com CONTINUED ON PAGE 14 JU LY 2014


116

JULY 2014 No. 647 VANI T Y FAIR .COM

CON TI NUED FROM PAGE 10

98 CLARE, IN LOVE AND WAR


By S Y LV I A JUK E S MOR R IS Clare Boothe Luce had
always
seemed unstoppable, winning literary fame and political
power. But, as an excerpt from volume two of her authorized
biography reveals, when Clare’s marriage to Time-Life
founder Henry Luce began to fall apart, in 1959, so did she.

109 ROMA CONQUEST Spotlight on Third Person’s Moran


Atias. By Tamasin Day-Lewis. Photograph by Jan Welters.

111 PURE DYNAMITE Spotlight on the James Brown biopic,


Get On Up. By David Kamp. Photograph by Gasper Tringale.

109
FANFAIR &
FAIRGROUND
A B O V E : Third Person star Moran Atias, in Los Angeles. 27 31 DAYS IN THE LIFE OF THE CULTURE
B E L O W : Donna Tartt’s Pulitzer Prize–winning best-seller, The Goldfnch. The Greenwich Hotel’s lofty getaway. Hot Type. The best
plastic-surgery alternatives.

37 AROUND THE WORLD, ONE PARTY AT


44 A TIME Inside V.F.’s White House Correspondents’
Association dinner; Tribeca Film Festival party; and
N.Y.C. celebration for Lisa Robinson’s There Goes Gravity.

COLUMNS

PH OTO GRA P HS : TO P, BY J A N WE LTE RS ; BUST I ER BY GUE SS ; S HO RTS BY DSQ UA RE D2; E A R RI NGS BY CA RTIE R; B RACE LE T
40

BY GU CCI . BOTTO M, BY J O HN M A NN O. I L LUST RATI O N BY RI S KO . F OR DE TA I LS , GO TO VF.CO M/C RE DI TS


THE IMPROBABLE DREAM By MIC H A E L K INSL E Y
With everyone talking about Thomas Piketty’s Capital
in the Twenty-First Century—a 696-page treatise on income
inequality—it’s time to see how his ideas add up.

44 IT’S TARTT—BUT IS IT ART? By E V GE NI A P E R E T Z


A runaway best-seller and Pulitzer Prize winner, Donna
Tartt’s The Goldfinch is indisputably the novel of the year.
But some highest-brow critics are appalled by its success.

ET CETERA
20 EDITOR’S LETTER CIVIL RIGHTS AND CIVIL FLIGHTS
22 IN THE DETAILS JASON SEGEL
24 60 MINUTES POLL
115 ON THE COVER
116 PROUST QUESTIONNAIRE WILLEM DAFOE
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18 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
EDITOR’S LETTER

CIVIL RIGHTS and CIVIL FLIGHTS

I t’s a courtroom saga that restores Overall, Boynton traveled upwards of

NIG EL PARRY
your faith in the American judi- 25,000 miles as he reported the article,
cial system: two of the country’s shuttling among New York, London, and
fnest lawyers, epitomizing opposing phi- the Gulf. He took a shower 36,000 feet
losophies—David Boies, the supremely over Germany. He spent half of one
accomplished trial lawyer and ardent Emirates-airline flight propping up the
Democrat, and Theodore Olson, solici- curved, well-stocked cocktail bar during
tor general under President George W. the 131⁄2-hour haul between Dubai and
Bush—forgoing partisanship in the name New York. On such trips, Boynton notes,
of civil rights. Boies and Olson joined “one meets loads of interesting people,
forces in the legal battle to overturn as you do in bars in the city, only these
Proposition 8, California’s 2008 ban on people are all real highfiers”—investment
same-sex marriage—ultimately prevail- bankers, international wheeler-dealers,
ing last year in a landmark Supreme veteran diplomats. And, as Wilkes adds,
Court case, Hollingsworth v. Perry. My “singles fock to the bar in the business-
esteemed colleague Financial Times edi- class area for strong drinks. They’re all
tor Lionel Barber pays homage to their looking for that high-altitude hookup. The
fght for marriage equality in this month’s V.F. Portrait, on page bartender sees and hears all. And he told me things that left me pon-
66. The unlikely allies recently teamed up again to write an account of dering the idea of a reality-TV series—set in the Emirates bar.”
the case, Redeeming the Dream: The Case for Marriage Equality.

I
They are also featured in a new HBO documentary, The Case t’s hard to think of a group that has burst onto the scene faster—or
Against 8, directed by Ben Cotner and Ryan White. To put the col- with greater global impact—than the Russian protest-art collective
laboration of Boies and Olson into stark perspective, these were known as Pussy Riot. You sometimes hear them referred to in
the two men whose last appearance before the Supreme Court was shorthand as a punk-rock group—but they’re not. Better to think of
on opposite sides of the infamous Bush v. Gore decision, in 2000, them as performance artists who have brought political theater—di-
when the court awarded the presidency to Bush. Their common rected mainly against Vladimir Putin and his increasingly repressive
fght—one that began decades ago with the eforts of countless oth- and aggressive neo-Stalinist regime—to a high pitch of media-savviness.
ers—is, as Barber writes, “not a liberal or conservative issue” but “a Most of the collective’s members are anonymous, identifable by the
basic human-rights issue.” The fght is far from over, but thanks to neon balaclavas they wear when engaged in brazen and courageous
these two valiant advocates, we are one very signifcant step closer. acts of public protest. Two of them, Masha Alyokhina and Nadya
Tolokonnikova, became the group’s public face, and have paid dearly.

I
n the jet age of the 50s and 60s, before commercial air travel Two and a half years ago, Alyokhina and Tolokonnikova, then
became the cattle-car ordeal it is today, fying was fashionable. aged 23 and 22, were arrested by Russian authorities for perform-
Passengers dressed for transatlantic fights. Men wore suits and ing an anti-Putin “punk prayer” in a Moscow cathedral. They were
ties. Women wore dresses and heels and carried hatboxes onto the sentenced, after a Kafka-esque trial, to two years in Gulag-like penal
airplane. And as frequent fiers strode across the high-gloss traver- colonies. The history of the group, and a detailed account of the
tine foors of international air terminals, the assertive click-clack of trial and imprisonment of these two young women, has been haunt-
their bufed oxfords and high heels seemed a perfect complement ingly told by V.F. contributor Masha Gessen in her book Words Will
to the strains of Henry Mancini or André Kostelanetz that would Break Cement, published earlier this year. Alyokhina and Tolokon-
flter over the airport sound system. nikova were released from prison weeks before the Sochi Olympics—
Today, fashionable fying is back, a renaissance that has been part of Putin’s short-lived (but rather successful) goodwill campaign
ushered in largely by the Gulf states, fush with petro-dollars and to buy a respite from criticism during the Games, before returning to
keen to dominate this coveted high-end market. For his article business as usual by annexing Crimea. Not that Alyokhina or Tolo-
“The New Jet Age,” on page 68, Graham Boynton spent several konnikova experienced much of that goodwill frsthand: they were
weeks on the prowl—and devoted one continuous, 24-hour stretch attacked and beaten in Sochi by Cossack thugs (captured on video),
to observing the ebb and flow of passengers moving through in all likelihood with the Kremlin’s tacit or explicit approval. But
the magnifcent Dubai International Airport. “There wasn’t one this has not deterred them in the least.
period when it stopped pulsating with people,” he recalls. The Pussy Riot is still in business, and as Masha Gessen explains in
busiest hours at the airport, says photographer Stephen Wilkes, her Spotlight “The Riot Act,” on page 84, Alyokhina and Tolokon-
who spent days on the assignment, “are between 11 p.m. and 3 nikova have taken the show on the road, now as prisoners’-rights
a.m.” The temperature outside on one of those August days? One activists, to the United States. But they are not expatriates. Russia
hundred eleven degrees Fahrenheit. That is, until a gust of even is their home and where they belong—and it is where they are re-
more scorching air overtook Wilkes and his crew, who soon real- turning. Vladimir Putin would love to be able to say that he doesn’t
ized that they’d set up their equipment directly atop the terminal’s have Pussy Riot to kick around any longer. But he does. More to
main air-conditioning exhaust system. the point, they have him. —GR AY DON C A R T ER
20 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
IN THE DETAILS

What You Should Know About

JASON SEGEL
A PA N O P LY O F E C C E N T R I C B I O G R A P H I C A L DATA R E : H O L LY WO O D ’ S FAVO R I T E F U N N Y G U Y

J
ason Segel is the afable Judd- housing his puppet collection—compris-
Apatow-comedy-troupe alum ing between 15 and 30 fgurines. “I used
who has gone on to headline to live in there,” Segel says of the house,
nine seasons of How I Met “and then I realized that it was incred-
Your Mother, reboot the Muppets, ibly creepy to have visitors over, because
and co-star with Cameron Diaz in I just looked like a total weirdo.”
this July’s Sex Tape comedy. Despite HIS BEST friend is Brian, a medical doc-
his Hollywood successes as a writer, tor living in New Haven, Connecticut,
producer, and actor—and his dramatic whom Segel has known since he was 13.
departure as David Foster Wallace in HIS FATHER recently retired as a corpo-
the upcoming biopic The End of the rate lawyer.
Tour—Segel seems to identify most HE HAS two siblings, a brother named
with the awkward, adolescent iteration Adam, who is a money manager, and a
of himself that inspired his frst liter- sister named Alison, whom Segel calls
ary efort, Nightmares!: a young-adult a “relentlessly hilarious writer.”
trilogy co-authored by Kirsten Miller, HE DID not warn his mother that he ap-
the first installment of which arrives peared fully naked in the 2008 breakup
in bookstores in September. Here, a comedy Forgetting Sarah Marshall,
compendium of the 34-year-old’s noc- which he wrote, before she saw the flm.
turnal memories, everyday preferences, Her reaction: “She cried,” he recalls.
and endearing peculiarities. SHE THEN sent out a mass e-mail to fam-
HE BEGINS each day with fve or six cups ily members with the following warn-
of black coffee and only switches to ing: “I would like to inform you all that
water once he starts feeling ill. WE LOVE YOU, MAN Jason has chosen to do full-frontal nudity, however, it
Actor and author
HE IS right-handed when it comes to all activities except Jason Segel,
is not gratuitous and is essential to the plot.”
eating. At the table, he mysteriously becomes a lefty. in Los Angeles. HIS MOTHER has not needed to send out mass e-mail
HIS FAVORITE meal is steak, which he’s been eating less of warnings about his flms since.
since becoming more health-conscious around his 30th birthday. HIS LIFELINE is an iPhone, which displays a Karl Kwasny illustration
UNTIL THE age of 10, he wore a Superman cape tied around his neck from Segel’s forthcoming novel on the home screen.
and covertly tucked underneath his clothes—just in case anything WHEN IT comes to interior décor, Segel has “a real affinity for
went awry in his Pacifc Palisades, California, neighborhood. things that are, by any account, an old man’s taste—a lot of dusty
AS A pre-teen, Segel had recurring nightmares during which he al- brown and corduroy.”
ways fought Dracula inside the vampire’s house, becoming very fa- HE RETIRED his D.V.R. a couple of years ago upon realizing that TV
miliar with his nocturnal nemesis’s foor plan: “I created this very prevented him from seeing classic flms: “I just got around to see-
cushy living-room environment [in my mind] where I could hide ing Citizen Kane, which blew my mind, and Singin’ in the Rain.”
from Dracula and play video games.” TO OFFICIATE a wedding on The Tonight Show in 2010 between
HE HAS no regrets about having worn a mustard-colored jacket and two fans, he became an ordained minister by completing a two-
purple pants to his Bar Mitzvah, in the early 90s, “when that was minute Internet transaction.
totally acceptable to wear.” HE PLAYS the piano, toys with a ukulele, and can teach himself a
HE IS in no rush to have any pets, especially after growing up with song on the guitar if you give him two weeks’ notice. While he’s
two dogs and six cats. never been in a band, he has performed onstage with Maroon 5
EVER SINCE watching the Muppets on television as a child, Segel and the folk group the Swell Season.
has had a deep and abiding love for puppets. His frst was “an HE DOES a lot of thinking between midnight and four a.m. and fg-
PH OTO GRA P H BY MI CHA E L MUL L ER /C PI SYN DI CAT I ON

old man named Walter,” which Segel recalls purchasing outside ures that he probably annoys his assistant most with furries of
Faneuil Hall, in Boston. random early-morning e-mails.
HIS NICKNAME in high school was “Dr. Dunk”—because he was a “lean, HE KEEPS in touch with Ted Walch, his high-school performing-arts in-
mean” basketball-playing machine. After inheriting his parents’ black structor at Harvard-Westlake, to whom Segel says he owes his career.
Jeep Grand Cherokee, he briefy consid- HE CARRIES a framed photo of the late
ered getting a “Dr. Dunk” vanity license
plate but settled for a custom-embroidered
HIS HIGH-SCHOOL Oscar-nominated actor Peter Sellers to
every flm set to remind himself of his
“Dr. Dunk” baseball hat instead. NICKNAME WAS acting inspiration—a man whose dual

“DR. DUNK.”
BORN AND raised in Los Angeles, he still ability to bring audiences to laughter
lives there and keeps a second home in and tears makes him indefinable in
town strictly for writing, working, and Segel’s book. —julie miller
22 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
THE 60 MINUTES/ VANITY FAIR POLL

AMERICA THE BEAUTIFUL

How would you feel

{
about an overweight
10 president? 2 @vf.com
SEE THE
IT HAS COMPLETE
. . . MORE NOTHING TO Could you be POLL
At the gym, LIKELY TO DO WITH attracted to RESULTS.
GETTING THE
APPEARANCE DOESN’T MATTER / 15%

HIT ON IT SENDS THE WRONG MESSAGE ABOUT HEALTH / 10%


PRESIDENT’S HEALTH COULD BE AT RISK / 9%
are you . . . someone who is
SOMEONE? JOB DONE
6% 64% out of shape?

. . . MORE
LIKELY TO
GET HIT ON?
15%
25%
9 3
If you knew
it would work and
remain secret,
what would you
change with plastic
NEITHER
IS LIKELY
77%
YES, POSSIBLE / 74%
NO, NOT POSSIBLE / 24%
P90X Which fitness
trend won’t last?

ZUMBA
STOMACH / 31%

E VE RE TT CO LL E CT IO N ( 9 ) ; BY A . W. E VA N S ( 7) , L IS E GAG NE ( 10) , F ROM P I XH OO K ( 5) , BY J O HN P RAT T (6), M. S WE E T (4), FRO M UNDE RWO O D


surgery? 8%

PHOTOGRAPHS © GERRY YARDY/AL AMY (1); FROM MARY EVANS/EMBASSY INTERNATIONAL PICTURES/UNIVERSAL PICTURES/RONALD GRANT/
NOSE / 9%
CHIN / 8%
BREASTS / 6%
CROSSFIT 8%
21%

Fat presidents?

A RCH IVE S ( 2 ) , BY F RE DE RI C CI ROU/ ZE N SHU I ( 8) , A L L F RO M GE T T Y I MAGE S. DI GI TA L CO L O RI ZAT I O N BY L ORNA CL ARK (2, 6, 9)


EYES / 6%
THIGHS / 5% Plastic surgery? YOGA SOULCYCLE 15%

Locker-room nudity?
We are a nation ALWAYS / 20%
YES, COMFORTABLE / 44% INTEND TO, BUT RARELY DO / 23%
of multitudes.
DON’T WORK OUT / 44%
8 NO, NOT COMFORTABLE / 54% 4
5 %
/8

NO
%

CH
11

Are you MU
%

T
TI
E/

How often do you


Y/3

comfortable with U
LIN

A BO work out when you’re


CIP

INK
UILT

nudity in the
DIS

TH on vacation?
EEL G

gym locker room?


N’ T
AT

DO
TH

ME F
AD
IH

15%
KING
ISH
IW

E MA

YES
YOU’R

7 NOT EXERCISE, 84% 5


LIVE TO 80 / 33%
When you EXERCISE, If steroids were
see a trim person
LIVE TO 90 / 65% safe, would
in spandex juice-
cleansing, what 6 you allow them
in pro sports?
do you think?

Which would
you prefer? This poll was conducted on behalf of CBS News by Social Science Research Solutions
of Media, Pennsylvania, among a random sample of 1,015 adults nationwide, interviewed by
telephone April 9–13, 2014. Some low-percentage answer choices have been omitted.

24 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
3 1 DAY S i n t h e L I F E o f t h e C U LT U R E JULY 2014

➸ T HE GREENWICH HO T EL’ S NE W PEN T HOUSE p. 27 MOCKINGBIRD MEMOIR p. 30 T HE DOC T OR IS IN p. 32 A ND MORE …

SK Y-HIGH
The inspiring talent of Belgian designer
Axel Vervoordt is on display inside this 6,800-square-
foot penthouse atop the Greenwich Hotel—owned
by Robert De Niro, Ira Drukier, and other partners—in
Tribeca, New York City. Vervoordt’s signature
palette of earthy tones, refined taste, and flair for
assembling a mélange of antiques and art make
the recently opened suite one of the most
desirable properties in town. Problem is: you’ll never
want to check out. (thegreenwichhotel.com)
—PUNCH HUT TON

The Greenwich Hotel’s “TriBeCa


Penthouse,” clockwise from top left: the
living room; the lower-level terrace;
the bathroom; the master bedroom; the
drawing room; the kids’ room.

JU LY 2 014 P H OTO G RA PHS BY DAVID PRINCE VAN IT Y FAI R 27


Elliott Erwitt’s
California, 1955, from
Blow Me a Kiss
(Powerhouse), by
The
Alice Harris. Mockingbird
Sings
or 50 years,
Harper Lee,
author of To Kill
a Mockingbird—one
of the most influential
novels of the 20th
century for its depiction
of racism, provincialism,
and the American justice
system—has evaded
curiosity seekers. Had
the famously sharp-
tongued Lee a form
response to interview
requests, she has said, it
would be “Hell no.”
he traumatized heroine of Tom Rach- Curious (McSweeney’s) captures the dizzying absurdity In 2004, however, she
man’s ingeniously orchestrated novel The Rise & Fall of of contemporary America. Bruce Allen Murphy profles said yes to Marja
Great Powers (Dial) will travel hither and yon to solve the the Supreme Court’s dark lord, Scalia: A Court of One Mills’s request to
mystery of why a motley band of misfts abducted her (Simon & Schuster). One of the handsomest, most elu- become her neighbor in
from her home as a girl, only to sive creatures on earth and its frst The Mockingbird Next

PH OTO GRA P HS © E LL I OTT E RWITT/ MAGNUM PHOTOS ( CA LIFOR NI A, 195 5), BY JOH N MANNO (B O OK S)
heartlessly abandon her years lat- photographer get their close-up in Door (Penguin Press).
er. The sinister side of privilege, Matthew Gavin Frank’s marvel- The former Chicago
female friendship, and desire ous Preparing the Ghost: An Essay Tribune reporter relives
feeds Katie Crouch’s mesmeriz- Concerning the Giant Squid and the year and a half she
ing, torn-from-the-tabloids novel, Its First Photographer (Liveright). spent in Monroeville,
Abroad (Sarah Crichton). Brando Colorful Russian folklore infuses Alabama, riding shotgun
Skyhorse survives being raised by an audaciously dys- Josh Weil’s speculative novel, The Great Glass Sea with Lee, then 78, and
functional grandmother, mother, and fve stepdads, in (Grove). V.F. reporter-researcher Mike Sacks talks shop her sparky 93-year-old
his miraculous Take This Man (Simon & Schuster). John with top comedy writers in Poking a Dead Frog (Penguin). sister, Alice, through
Micklethwait and Adrian Wooldridge target inefective Renegade journalist Andrei Netto joins with Libyan reb- the Deep South, hitting
government as the catalyst for The Fourth Revolution: els in Bringing Down Gaddaf (Palgrave Macmillan). Ian exercise class and
The Global Race to Reinvent the State (Penguin Press). A Falloon and James Mann’s The Art of Ducati (Motor- McDonald’s for coffee,
screwball author vanishes in Alessandro Baricco’s high- books) is a masterwork of Italian motorcycle history. as well as conversing
minded literary mystery novel Mr. Gwyn (McSweeney’s), Novel debuts: Stan Parish transports readers Down about the effect To Kill a
translated by Ann Goldstein. Jeffery Renard Allen’s the Shore (Viking); Lauren Owen sinks her teeth into Mockingbird had on
Song of the Shank (Graywolf) powerfully evokes the life Victorian London’s gothic vein in The Quick (Random their lives, Lee’s
of the 19th-century slave and enigmatic House); Tiphanie Yanique’s Land of Love and Drowning childhood chum Truman
musical savant, Blind Tom. (Riverhead) is a feat of tropical magical realism; Lisa Capote, and whether
From sea to sea, essayist Howorth’s Flying Shoes (Bloomsbury) is the author will write
Sean Wilsey’s haunted by the unsolved murder again. More important
More of her nine-year-old stepbroth- than these answers,
er; and journalist Michael however, is the voice
Hastings’s novel, The Last of Lee
Magazine (Blue Rider), will be herself—
published a year after his death. and her
The storied tradition of the Soviet writer- message,
dissident took a dramatic turn with Boris which
Pasternak and Doctor Zhivago; in The Zhivago we still
Afair (Pantheon), Peter Finn and Petra Couvée need to
reveal that the C.I.A. (which knows the power of a hear.
great story) was secretly behind its publication and —E.S.
dissemination in Russia. Ahhh … — e l i s s a s ch a ppe l l
in short
Dave Eggers sticks to dialogue in Your Fathers, Where Are They? And the Prophets, Do They Live Forever? (Knopf/McSweeney’s).
Elizabeth Mitchell raises Liberty’s Torch (Atlantic Monthly Press). Sarah Payne Stuart grows up Wasp in Perfectly Miserable: Guilt, God and Real Estate in a Small Town
(Riverhead). Laurence Gonzales reconstructs the crash of Flight 232 (Norton). ABCDCS: David Collins Studio (Assouline) catalogues his influences. Lee Grant battles
the blacklist in I Said Yes to Everything (Blue Rider). J. K. Rowling, under the pseudonym Robert Galbraith, spins The Silkworm (Little, Brown). The late C. David Heymann’s Joe
and Marilyn (Atria/Emily Bestler) hits a homer. Florence Muller styles Dior: The Legendary Images (Rizzoli). Megan Abbott spreads The Fever (Little, Brown).
Jojo Moyes entertains in One Plus One (Pamela Dorman).

30 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
Dr. Amy Dr. Macrene
Wechsler Alexiades-Armenakas
he best quick fix is he best treatment option rivaling
still Botox. It can open up one’s eyes plastic surgery today is the ePrime,
and give a rested, relaxed look within a fractional radio-frequency device, which has been shown
days. Thermage is an excellent, non-invasive skin to yield one-third the result of a lower face-lift. The device employs
tightener in lieu of plastic surgery. There’s also hair-like needles that are inserted directly into the deeper layer of skin
Voluma, a hyaluronic-acid filler that lifts as it fills and that release the radio-frequency energy, well known to induce
and re-volumizes cheeks, giving an instantly skin tightening. It is currently the best option for those
more youthful appearance. I like fragrance-free, who wish to tighten and turn back time naturally,
hypoallergenic Cetaphil lotion following in-office without the scars and potential for alteration
procedures, since the skin is more sensitive, of their natural appearance that may occur with
as well as Chanel Hydra Beauty Sérum, which surgical face-lifting. For wound healing, I would
is deeply hydrating and also offers antioxidant recommend Lancôme Absolue L’Extrait, as
protection. (dramywechsler.com) it contains rose native-cell factors. (nyderm.org)

Dr. David Colbert Dr. Ava


lthera, the ultrasound non-surgical
Shamban
face-lift, is a very efficient and deploy a
natural way to tighten and lift facial combination of
and neck muscles. There is no downtime, and injectables,
results can be dramatic. It is more popular such as Voluma,
than Botox. I recommend applying ultra-rich and lasers and
Colbert M.D. Heal & Soothe Night cream peels. These
with shea butter afterward to minimize treatments address
soreness. (colbertmd.com) The Doctor Is In signs of aging, from
volume loss in the
The best procedures, treatments, deepest layers of
and healing products the skin to the fine
lines, wrinkles, and
in lieu of plastic surgery.
brown spots that
Experts weigh in . . . appear in the top
layers. I recommend
SOS Post-Procedure
Recovery Kit
by Avène.
(avamd.com)

Dr. Gervaise Gerstner Dr. Fredric Brandt


raxel is the gold otox and
standard for fillers are
re-surfacing one’s the best
skin. If you have a face-lift options in lieu of
without addressing the texture, surgery because you
the surgeon is cutting and re-draping can actually lift the face,
“dirty” skin; Fraxel will address both re-contour, and restore volume with minimal
the texture and tightness prior to opting to no recovery time. When I administer
PH OTO GRA P H BY PE TE K A RI CI / GE TT Y I MAGES
( R X) ; F OR DETA I L S, GO TO V F.CO M /CR E DI TS

for surgery. The Fraxel Dual Laser my Can-Ulift procedure, a combination of


1550/1927 is best: the 1550 fillers, I recommend an Arnica cream for
wavelength targets wrinkles, scars, and bruising and Dr. Brandt Skincare BB cream
pores; the 1927 wavelength targets or CC glow to conceal any redness or

{
brown spots. The best healing product irritation and to protect the
post-Fraxel is SkinMedica TNS Essential skin from the sun. After @vf.com
Serum and/or SkinMedica TNS a treatment, skin can FO R MO R E
D O CTO RS ’ T IP S ,
Recovery Complex. (gerstnermd.com) be at its most sensitive. VI SIT VF. C O M/
(drfredricbrandt.com) B E AUT Y.

32 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
A R O U N D t h e WO R L D, O N E PA RT Y a t a T I M E JULY 2014

PARTY CAPITAL
Following the White
House Correspondents’ Members of
Association Dinner, the Italian
Questlove Vanity Fair and Bloomberg guard.
and Attorney held a swanky soirée
General at the residence of
Eric Holder the Italian ambassador in
Sofía
Washington, D.C. Vergara

Ronan
Farrow
and
Christine
Lagarde

Joe
Scarborough
Tim Tebow, and Arianna
Robin Richard Sherman, Huffington
Wright Tony Romo, and
Eric Stonestreet

Lindsey
Vonn

Keith
Lieberthal
Nancy and Julianna
Pelosi Margulies Sheherazade
Goldsmith
Tony and Alfonso
PH OTO GRA P HS BY J UST I N BI S HO P ( PE LO SI , Q UEST L OVE , T EB OW,

Cuarón
WI R E IM AGE ( B I SO GN I E RO ) , HA N NA H TH OM SO N ( A L L OT HE RS )

Goldwyn
VE RGA RA , VO N N, WI N KL EVOS S ), DI MI T RI O S KA MB O URI S /

Italian
ambassador
Claudio
Bisogniero
and Governor
Frank Rich Tyler and Chris Christie
and Maureen Cameron
Dowd Winklevoss
Steve
McQueen
JU LY 2 014 VAN IT Y FAIR 37
Questlove,
Lisa Robinson, John
and John Clive Sykes,
McEnroe Davis Irving Tony Debbie
Azoff, Bennett Harry
and Tom
Toni
Freston
Morrison

Annie
Leibovitz
MUSICAL CHAIRS and Lisa
Robinson

Graydon Carter and Ed Burns and


David Fran Lebowitz co-hosted a book Jill Abramson,
Christy
Johansen party in honor of Lisa Robinson and Michael K. Williams,
Turlington
and Richard and Fran Lebowitz
her new memoir, There Goes
Robinson
Gravity: A Life in Rock and Roll, at the
Monkey Bar, in N.Y.C.

Christine
Lake Baranski
Bell

PH OTO GRA P HS BY H ANNAH T HO MSO N


Tom
Freston,
Allen
Grubman,
and Ron
Meyer
Harvey
Weinstein, Jane Eric
Ron Rosenthal, and Schmidt
Howard Robert De Niro
COURT ORDER
Ronald Perelman, Robert De Niro,
and Graydon Carter hosted a confluence
of writers, movie stars, politicians,
musicians, and moguls in the rotunda of
the State Supreme Courthouse in
N.Y.C. in celebration of the 13th annual
Tribeca Film Festival.

Ronald Perelman
and Ray Kelly

Griffin
Dunne

Fran Lebowitz,
Bill de Blasio, and
Hannah
Chirlane McCray
Stoudemire,
Governor David Ajala,
Andrew and Jada
38 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com Cuomo Stoudemire

W
MICHAEL KINSLEY

hen a govern­
ment taxes a certain level of income or in­
heritance at a rate of 70 or 80 percent, the pri­
mary goal is obviously not to raise additional
revenue᠁ It is rather to put an end to such
incomes and large estates, which lawmakers
have for one reason or another come to regard
as socially unacceptable and economically un­
productive.”
Reading Thomas Piketty’s famous book,
Capital in the Twenty-First Century, after all
the fuss about it, is a bit of a shock. It’s both
much more radical and much less radical
than its reputation. The above quotation,
one of many I could have chosen, makes it
sound as if he favors the expropriation
through high taxes on all large fortunes.
ENOUGH ALRE ADY I can’t believe that many of his en­
In politics, thusiasts, some of whom have actu­
“re-distribution” is ally read the book, agree with that.
a toxic word. I was anticipating a left­wing rant,
But what if . . . ?
but Piketty’s tone is modest and po­
lite—not at all what you expect from a
rock­star French intellectual. He modestly
describes his own brainstorm—a 10 percent
global tax on capital—as “a utopian idea.”
He is always qualifying his pronouncements

THE
with the caveat that he could be completely
wrong. (Admittedly, there may be some Gal­
lic condescension lurking in passages like
the one where he concedes that “there are a

IMPROBABLE
thousand and one ways to do social science,”
though he happens to prefer using data.)
Piketty and his book remind me of my fa­

DREAM
vorite economist, the 19th­century American
PH OTO GRA P H BY H. A RM STRO NG ROB E RTS/ © CL A S SI CSTO CK /

Henry George, and his best­selling book, Prog-


ress and Poverty (1879). Both men’s books of­
fer a comprehensive explanation of the world,
A L A MY, DI GI TA L COL O RI Z ATI O N BY L O RN A CL A R K

in particular the problem of poverty. Both men


Amid rising concern about income inequality, acknowledge the importance of market incen­
Thomas Piketty’s Capital in the Twenty-First Century tives and entrepreneurship and the evils of pro­
tectionism and all of that good conservative
has become an unlikely best-seller—and its stuf, even as they rail against the plutocrats.
Both think we can end or reduce inequality
French author an economic rock star. Is his proposal without giving up the benefts of capitalism.
for wealth re-distribution too radical, or not And both see the answer in a new tax on capi­
tal. Henry George advocated a land tax that
radical enough? Let’s do the math . . . would supposedly eliminate the need for any
40 VA NIT Y FA IR www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
KINSLEY
other revenue source. That’s why members of a matter of taking cash from your pocket and mism—that the average investor earns income
his briefy infuential movement were called putting it in mine (or, of course, vice versa). of 5 percent a year, after inflation; if that’s
“single-taxers.” There are still a few of them Would-be populist politicians encourage the case, then even a 1 percent tax on capital
around. people to believe that any re-distribution of amounts to a 20 percent tax on income. This
Piketty expands that notion to a global tax income to make the economy fairer would is on top of all the taxes we now have, including
on all assets, not just land. It would start at put them on the receiving end. President the income tax.
0.1 percent and top out at 10 percent on as- Obama says he will make fnancial inequality Using Census Bureau figures (which di-
sets over several hundred million dollars. He his primary domestic focus for the rest of his vide the population into ffths based on in-
notes correctly that even the growing income- term. But through two election campaigns come, then give you data for the top 5 percent
inequality figures we see today are wild un- Obama insisted that, concerned as he was as a bonus), you can play what-if games. In
derestimates of the problem. Capital—that is, about growing inequality, he would never 1970, the average household income of the
wealth—is larger and even more concentrated raise the taxes of anyone making less than poorest fifth of American households was
$10,512 (in 2012 dollars). The income of the
most afuent ffth was $114,421. The income
EVEN THE GROWING INCOME-INEQUALITY of the best-of 5 percent was $175,624. The
equivalent figures for 2012 were $11,490,
FIGURES WE SEE TODAY ARE WILD $181,905, and $318,052. The poorest ffth, as

UNDERESTIMATES OF
you can see, has barely budged. The most af-
fuent ffth has gained 60 percent.
Suppose that you are unpersuaded by assur-

THE PROBLEM. ances that many of the rich are perfectly nice
people and you still have it in for the 1 percent.
Suppose you decide that you are going to really
nail them and take away their entire incomes.
than annual income is, and most of it grows $200,000 (single) or $250,000 (married That would be about $1.5 million each. Then
completely untaxed, year after year, because couple). The so-called Bufett Rule, named you’re going to transfer all the money in equal
you don’t pay taxes on an investment until you after the genial multi-billionaire who noted amounts to everyone else in the economy—the
sell it, which the very richest people never need that he pays a lower tax rate than his secre- 99 percent. How much money would each
to do. They live of the interest. tary, would have raised taxes on anyone mak- household in the 99 percent get?
Growing fnancial inequality can be seen ing more than a million dollars a year, if it had The answer is: about $15,000. That’s
as two separate problems: “The rich get passed Congress, which it didn’t. enough to more than double the incomes of
rich and the poor get poorer,” to quote the I’m all for raising taxes on people mak- those at the bottom of the heap. We might de-
famous song. Or it can be seen as only one ing $250,000 or $1 million. But the median cide to target the money at people who need it
problem, either because less for me means household income in this country is about more—say, the 47 percent of Americans who,
more for you or because you think “the rich $50,000. You can’t achieve serious income re- according to Mitt Romney in the last election,
get rich” is not a problem at all. In fact, it’s distribution if you exempt anyone making less are wards of the government anyway. We could
what American-style capitalism, which has than $250,000 or $1 million. One percent? give each of them $32,000. If we focus on the
served most of us pretty well, is supposed to Forget it. Forget 20 percent (which would be real poor—the bottom 20 percent of income
be all about. Piketty doesn’t buy it. He sees all households above about $100,000). You’re distribution—we could give each household
a dynamic in which the return on capital ex- not serious about income re-distribution unless $75,000.
ceeds the rate of economic growth as an in- you’re prepared to raise taxes on incomes down And suppose we don’t want to destroy the
evitable part of capitalism, one that means the to somewhere near the $50,000 (per house- afuent classes (which we at Vanity Fair cer-
poor can never catch up. hold) national median. Any higher cutof and tainly do not want) and therefore propose a
you’re re-distributing from the rich to the above mere 10-percent-of-income surcharge on the

S
o, what of Piketty’s idea of taxing the average and even the merely afuent, which is a top 20 percent of family incomes, to be spread
world’s biggest fortunes 10 percent dubious accomplishment for economic justice. among the bottom 40 percent (households
every year? It is easy to be in favor of (Arianna agrees with me about this. “Dar- with incomes up to about $40,000). Answer (I
something if it’s completely impossible to ling,” she didn’t say in an exclusive interview think)? About $4,000 per household.
achieve—to dream the impossible dream costs with Vanity Fair, “I just adore paying taxes. This is beginning to sound sort of reason-
you nothing. Your mettle is tested when a goal Give me all your taxes and I will pay them. able, both in its demands on people at the top
is almost impossible. Which category—almost Who said, ‘Taxes are the price we pay for civi- and its generosity to those on the bottom. After
impossible or completely impossible—does lization’? Perhaps I said it. No? Then it must all, the mean income of the top ffth back in
Piketty’s Utopian idea fall into? be one of the ancient Greeks, who were so 1970 was 11 times that of the bottom ffth. To-
From the remarkable reaction in this coun- wise. Well, who is this Oliver Wendell Holmes day it is more like 16 times as much. To restore
try to Piketty’s fairly dense book of translated person? Do I know him? Where does he work that ratio to where it was in 1970 would require
French philosophy, it is evident that many out? Ring him up and ofer him a blog.”) … lemme see here … carry the seven … oh
people believe that a “reset” in the distribution hell. It would require a lot. Not, I suppose, an

L
of income or wealth would be no bad thing. et’s forget about the entire world and impossible amount. But improbable for sure. �
Even more people, who have never heard of just do some back-of-the-envelope cal-
Piketty (because they’ve been trapped in an culations on what the Piketty tax would FROM THE ARCHIVE
elevator for the past few months), believe that look like in the United States. And I begin this For these related stories, visit VF.COM/ARCHIVE
inequality has widened too much. They’re exercise with no idea how it will come out.
• The 1 percent vs. the rest of us
right, but what to do? At one point Piketty says A 10 percent tax on all capital is essentially
(Joseph E. Stiglitz, May 2011)
that more government services for all, paid for slow-motion expropriation, since the average
• American-style capitalism in twilight?
by taxing the rich, is in efect re-distribution, investor makes less than 10 percent on his or (Joseph E. Stiglitz, July 2009)
but let’s think of re-distribution, for now, as her investments. Suppose—with extreme opti-
42 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
BOOKS

BIRD IN HAND
Clockwise from far
left: The Goldfnch, 1654,
by Carel Fabritius;
Donna Tartt in New York,
April 2013; Tartt’s novel
The Goldfnch.

IT’S TARTT—
BUT IS IT ART?
No one denies that Donna Tartt has written the “It novel” of the year, a runaway

H
best-seller that won her the Pulitzer Prize. But some of the self-appointed high priests
of literary criticism—at The New Yorker, The New York Review of Books,

Ô
and The Paris Review—are deeply dismayed by The Goldfinch and its success

By E V G E N I A P E R E T Z
PH OTO GRA P HS : CL O CK WI SE F RO M L EF T, BY MA RCO SE CCH I/ GE TT Y
I MAG ES , © BE OW ULF SHE E HA N /COR B I S, BY J O HN MA N NO

ave you read The Goldfnch yet?” Consider it the cocktail-party conversation starter of 2014,
the new “Are you watching Breaking Bad?” Eleven years in the making, 784 pages long, the
book has re-ignited the cult of Donna Tartt, which began in 1992 with her sensational debut
novel, The Secret History. When The Goldfnch came out, last fall, recipients of advance cop-
ies promptly showed of their galleys on Instagram, as if announcing the birth of a child. Her
readings sold out instantly. New York’s Frick Collection, which in October began exhibiting
the painting for which the book was named, hadn’t seen so much trafc in years. The novel
is already on its way to becoming a movie, or a TV series, made by the producers of The
Hunger Games. It’s been on the New York Times best-seller list for seven months, sold a mil-
lion and a half print and digital copies, and drawn a cornucopia of rave reviews, including
one in the daily New York Times and another in the Sunday New York Times Book Review. In
April it won the Pulitzer Prize for fction, the judges of which praised it as “a book that
44 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
BOOKS
stimulates the mind and touches the heart.” are king and real book reviewing has all but fnch lead to the long-debated questions: What
It’s also gotten some of the severest pans in vanished. The Goldfnch a “rapturous” sym- makes a work literature, and who gets to decide?
memory from the country’s most important phony? Not so fast, they say. The questions are as old as fction itself.
critics and sparked a full-on debate in which “Its tone, language, and story belong in The history of literature is flled with books
the naysayers believe that nothing less is at children’s literature,” wrote critic James Wood, now considered masterpieces that were
stake than the future of reading itself. in The New Yorker. He found a book stufed thought hackwork in their time. Take Dickens,
For the few uninitiated, The Goldfinch with relentless, far-fetched plotting; cloying the greatest novelist of the Victorian period,
is a sprawling bildungsroman centered on stock characters; and an overwrought mes- whose mantle writers from John Irving to Tom
13-year-old Theo Decker, whose world is vio- sage tacked on at the end as a plea for serious- Wolfe to Tartt have sought to inherit. Henry
lently turned upside down when, on a trip to ness. “Tartt’s consoling message, blared in the James called Dickens the greatest of superf-
the Metropolitan Museum of Art, a terror- book’s fnal pages, is that what will survive of cial novelists … “We are aware that this def-
ist bomb goes of, killing his mother, among us is great art, but this seems an anxious com- nition confnes him to an inferior rank in the
other bystanders. At the behest of a dying old pensation, as if Tartt were unconsciously ac- department of letters which he adorns; but we
man, he makes of with a painting—the 1654 knowledging that the 2013 ‘Goldfnch’ might accept this consequence of our proposition.
Carel Fabritius masterpiece, The Goldfinch. not survive the way the 1654 ‘Goldfinch’ It were, in our opinion, an ofence against hu-
For the next 14 years and 700 pages, the paint- has.” Days after she was awarded the Pulitzer, manity to place Mr. Dickens among the great-
ing becomes both his burden and the only Wood told Vanity Fair, “I think that the rap- est novelists. He has added nothing to our
connection to his lost mother, while he’s fung ture with which this novel has been received is understanding of human character.” Many
from New York to Las Vegas to Amsterdam, further proof of the infantilization of our liter- future ofenses against humanity would follow:
encountering an array of eccentric characters, ary culture: a world in which adults go around “It isn’t worth any adult reader’s atten-
from the hard-living but soulful Russian teen- reading Harry Potter.” tion,” The New York Times pronounced con-
ager Boris to the cultured and kindly furniture In The New York Review of Books, novel- cerning Nabokov’s Lolita.
restorer Hobie, who becomes a stand-in father, ist and critic Francine Prose wrote that, for “Kind of monotonous,” the same paper
to the mysterious, waif-like Pippa, plus assort- all the frequent descriptions of the book as said about Salinger’s The Catcher in the Rye.
ed lowlifes, con men, Park Avenue recluses, “Dickensian,” Tartt demonstrates little of “He should’ve cut out a lot about these jerks
and dissolute preppies. Dickens’s remarkable powers of descrip- and all at that crumby school.”
Michiko Kakutani, the chief New York tion and graceful language. She culled both “An absurd story,” announced The Satur-
Times book reviewer for 31 years (and herself what she considered lazy clichés (“Theo’s day Review of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great
a Pulitzer winner, in criticism), called it “a high school friend Tom’s cigarette is ‘only Gatsby, while the New York Herald Tribune
glorious Dickensian novel, a novel that pulls the tip of the iceberg.’ … The bomb site declared it “a book of the season only.”
together all [Tartt’s] remarkable storytelling is a ‘madhouse’ ”) and passages that were

T
talents into a rapturous, symphonic whole. “bombastic, overwritten, marred by bafing hat said, for all the snooty pans of
It’s a work that shows us how many emotional turns of phrase.” “Reading The Goldfnch,” books now considered classics, there
octaves Ms. Tartt can now reach, how seam- Prose concluded, “I found myself wondering, have been, conversely, plenty of au-
lessly she can combine the immediate and ‘Doesn’t anyone care how something is writ- thors who were once revered as literary mira-
tactile with more wide-angled concerns.” Ac- ten anymore?’ ” Across the pond, the highly cles and are now relegated to the trash heap.
cording to best-selling phenomenon Stephen regarded London Review of Books likened it Sir Walter Scott, for example, was considered
King, who reviewed it for The New York Times to a “children’s book” for adults. London’s perhaps the pre-eminent writer of his time.
Book Review, “ ‘The Goldfnch’ is a rarity that Sunday Times concluded that “no amount Now his work, reverential as it is to concepts
of rank and chivalry, seems fairly ridiculous.
Margaret Mitchell’s Civil War blockbuster,

“TARTT CREATED
Gone with the Wind, won the Pulitzer and
inspired comparisons to Tolstoy, Dickens,
and Thomas Hardy. Now it’s considered a

A SERIOUS NOVEL... schmaltzy relic read by teenage girls, if anyone.


For many best-selling authors, it’s not
enough to sell millions of books; they want
AND MADE IT INTO A CULTURAL respectability too. Stephen King, despite his
PHENOMENON,Ó SAYS LEON WIESELTIER. wild commercial success, has nursed a lifelong
gripe that he’s been overlooked by the literary-
critical establishment. In 2003, King was given
a medal by the National Book Foundation
comes along perhaps half a dozen times per of straining for high-flown uplift can dis- for his “distinguished contribution to Ameri-
decade, a smartly written literary novel that guise the fact that The Goldfnch is a turkey.” can letters.” In his acceptance speech, he
connects with the heart as well as the mind.” “A book like The Goldfnch doesn’t undo took the opportunity to chide all the fancy
any clichés—it deals in them,” says Lorin pants in the room—“What do you think?
Reading Like a Critic Stein, editor of The Paris Review, perhaps the You get social academic Brownie points for

B
ut, in the literary world, there are most prestigious literary journal in America. deliberately staying out of touch with your
those who profess to be higher brows “It coats everything in a cozy patina of ‘liter- own culture?”—and to ask why they made it
still than The New York Times—the ary’ gentility.” Who cares that Kakutani or “a point of pride” never to have read anything
secret rooms behind the frst inner sanctum, King gave it the stamp of approval: “Nowa- by such best-selling authors as John Grisham,
consisting, in part, of The New Yorker, The days, even The New York Times Book Re- Tom Clancy, and Mary Higgins Clark. Har-
New York Review of Books, and The Paris Re- view is afraid to say when a popular book is old Bloom, the most fnicky of fnicky literary
view, three institutions that are considered, at crap,” Stein says. critics, went into a tizzy, calling the founda-
least among their readers, the last bastions of No novel gets uniformly enthusiastic re- tion’s decision to give the award to King “an-
true discernment in a world where book sales views, but the polarized responses to The Gold- other low in the process of dumbing down our
46 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
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cultural life” and the recipient “an immensely or be asphyxiated.” (Mailer and Wolfe had a novels have, shall we say, emotional difcul-
inadequate writer on a sentence-by-sentence, history: Mailer had once remarked, “There ties.” Curtis Sittenfeld, the best-selling and
paragraph-by-paragraph, book-by-book basis.” is something silly about a man who wears acclaimed author of Prep and American Wife,
Bloom’s fussing had little impact. King was a white suit all the time, especially in New similarly observes that critics derive “a satisfac-
already on his way to the modern canon—his York,” to which Wolfe replied, “The lead dog tion in knocking a book of its pedestal.”
essays and short stories had been published in is the one they always try to bite in the ass.”) It’s a theory that holds appeal for authors
The New Yorker—and thus he was now in the Irving said that reading A Man in Full “is like who feel they’ve been unfairly ignored by
position to announce who he thought was gar- reading a bad newspaper or a bad piece in a critics, and it can lead to surprising, some
bage: James Patterson. “I don’t like him,” King magazine. It makes you wince.” He added might even say contorted, rationales. Jennifer
said after accepting a lifetime-achievement that on any given page out of Wolfe he could Weiner, the outspoken mega-selling author
award from the Canadian Booksellers As- “read a sentence that would make me gag.” of such “women’s books” as In Her Shoes,
sociation in 2007. “I don’t respect his books, Wolfe later struck back. “It’s a wonderful Good in Bed, and Best Friends Forever, theo-
because every one is the same.” To which Pat-
terson later replied, “Doesn’t make too much
sense. I’m a good dad, a nice husband. My
only crime is I’ve sold millions of books.” “A BOOK LIKE THE GOLDFINCH
War of Words DOESN’T UNDO ANY
I CLICHÉS—
n the long war over membership in the
pantheon of literary greatness, no battle
had quite the comical swagger of the
ambush of Tom Wolfe after the publication IT DEALS IN THEM,” SAYS
of his 1998 novel, A Man in Full, which be-
came a call to arms for three literary lions: THE PARIS REVIEW’S LORIN STEIN.
Norman Mailer, John Updike, and John Ir-
ving. As the English newspaper The Guard-
ian gleefully reported, they were adamant tantrum,” he said. “A Man in Full panicked rizes that Wood’s review may have been a re-
that Wolfe belonged not in the canon but on [Irving] the same way it frightened John Up- sponse to the public’s tepid reception of The
airport-bookstore shelves (between Danielle dike and Norman. Frightened them. Panicked Woman Upstairs, by his wife, Claire Messud.
Steel and Susan Powter’s Stop the Insanity). them.” Updike and Mailer were “two old piles “[Messud’s] writing was gorgeous. It was like
Updike, in his New Yorker review, concluded of bones.” As for Irving, “Irving is a great ad- beautiful carpentry. Everything ft. Everything
that A Man in Full “still amounts to entertain- mirer of Dickens. But what writer does he see worked. There wasn’t a single metaphor or
ment, not literature, even literature in a mod- now constantly compared to Dickens? Not simile or comparison you could pull out and
est aspirant form.” Mailer, writing in The New John Irving, but Tom Wolfe … It must gnaw say, ‘This doesn’t work,’ the way you can with
York Review of Books, compared reading the at him terribly.” The Goldfnch. But not many people read that
novel to having sex with a 300-pound woman: book. The world doesn’t think what she’s
“Once she gets on top it’s all over. Fall in love The book of my enemy has been doing is as worthy as what Tartt is doing.”
remaindered

F
And I am pleased. rom the beginning, Tartt’s work con-
In vast quantities it has been fused critics. When The Secret His-
remaindered tory, about an erudite group of classics
Like a van-load of counterfeit that majors who turn to murder at a small New
has been seized England college, was published, in 1992, it
was greeted with a kind of wonder by writ-
So begins the Australian critic ers, critics, and readers—not just because its
and essayist Clive James’s poem author was a mysterious, tiny package from
about the writer’s best friends, Greenwood, Mississippi, who dressed in
Schadenfreude and his twin brother, crisp tailored suits and revealed little about
Envy. Leon Wieseltier, the longtime herself, but because few could place it on the
literary editor of The New Republic commercial-literary continuum. Lev Gross-
(where James Wood was a senior man, the book reviewer for Time and author
editor before moving to The New of the best-selling fantasy series The Magicians,
Yorker), suggests there might just recalls, “You couldn’t classify it easily into high
be a smidge of this at work in the literature or genre fction. It seemed to come
criticism leveled against Tartt. from some other literary universe, where those
“Tartt has managed to do categories didn’t exist. And it made me want
HOMICIDIUM, something that almost to go to that universe because it was so com-
SHE WROTE never happens: she pelling.” Jay McInerney, who’d had a splashy
Tartt in Paris, 1993, has created a serious debut similar to Tartt’s a few years earlier with
PH OTO GRA P H © A DI N E SAGA LY N

the year after novel—whether you Bright Lights, Big City, and became friends
her breakout debut
like the book or not, it with her early on, recalls, “I loved it on many
with The Secret
History. is not frivolous, or tacky levels, not least because it’s a literary murder
or cynical—and made it mystery, but also because it initiates the reader
into a cultural phenomenon. from the outset into a secret club, which is
When a serious novel breaks out, probably what every good novel should do.”
some authors of other serious In recent years it has been discovered by new
48 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
BOOKS
readers such as Lena Dunham (creator of Eugenides, Marilynne Robinson, Michael need.” Ultimately, he thinks, the success of
HBO’s Girls), who found in Tartt not only this Cunningham, and Lydia Davis.) Determin- The Goldfnch is a step in the right direction.
cool persona—“She reminded me, style-wise, ing what’s serious literature isn’t a science, “When I look at the fiction best-seller list,
of my mother’s radical-feminist photographer says Galassi, who hasn’t yet read The Gold- which is mainly an inventory of junk, and
friends in the 80s”—but a master of the tight- finch. The response isn’t fully rationalized, I see a book like this riding high, I think it’s
group-of-friends tradition. but ultimately a book must be “convincing in good news, even if it is not The Ambassadors.”
It took 10 years for Tartt to come out some way. It can be emotionally convincing,

I
with her next book, The Little Friend, but it can be intellectually convincing, it can be ndeed, we might ask the snobs, What’s
it was a disappointment to both critics and politically convincing. Hopefully it’s all those the big deal? Can’t we all just agree that
readers. Was she a one-hit wonder? To prove things. But with someone like Donna Tartt, it’s great she spent all this time writing a
otherwise she spent the next 11 years, head not everyone is convinced on all levels.” big enjoyable book and move on? No, we can-
down, spinning the adventures of Theo To Grossman, this slavish devotion to re- not, say the stalwarts. Francine Prose, who
Decker, going down byways for as long ality is retrograde, and perhaps reviewers like took on the high-school canon—Maya An-
as eight months that she would ultimately Wood should not be reviewing people gelou, Harper Lee, Ray Bradbury—in a con-
abandon. After the disappointment of her like Tartt in the first place. “A critic like troversial Harper’s essay, “I Know Why the
last book, everything was on the line. Wood—whom I admire probably as much Caged Bird Cannot Read,” argued that hold-
The verdict among her fans? Perhaps too or more than any other book reviewer work- ing up weak books as examples of excellence
long in parts, but the story was as gripping ing—doesn’t have the critical language you promotes mediocrity and turns young readers
as ever. She is “the consummate storyteller,” need to praise a book like The Goldfnch. of forever. With The Goldfnch she felt duty-
says Grossman, who is a new voice leading The kinds of things that the book does par- bound in the same way. “Everyone was say-
the charge that certain works of genre fction ticularly well don’t lend themselves to literary ing this is such a great book and the language
should be considered literature. “The narra- analysis. Her language is careless in places, was so amazing. I felt I had to make quite a
tive thread is one you just can’t gather up fast and there’s a fairy-tale quality to the book. case against it,” she says. It gave her some
enough,” he explains. There’s very little context in the book—it’s satisfaction, she reports, that after her Gold-
happening in some slightly simplifed world. fnch review came out she received one e-mail
How Fiction Works Which to me is fine. I find that intensely telling her that the book was a masterpiece

‘T
here seems to be universal agreement compelling in a novel. Every novel dispenses and she had missed the point, and about 200
that the book is a ‘good read,’ ” says with something, and Tartt dispenses with from readers thanking her for telling them
Wood. “But you can be a good sto- that.” As for Francine Prose’s query that they were not alone. Similarly, Stein, who
ryteller, which in some ways Tartt clearly is, “Doesn’t anyone care how a book is written struggles to keep strong literary voices alive

{
and still not be a serious storyteller—where, anymore?”: Grossman admits that, with and robust, sees a
of course, ‘serious’ does not mean the exclu- story now king for readers, the answer is no. book like The Gold- @vf.com
T H E B E ST BAD
sion of the comic, or the joyful, or the excit- Wood agrees that that’s the state of things, finch standing in the R EV IEW S OF
ing. Tartt’s novel is not a serious one—it tells but fnds it sad and preposterous. “This is way. “What worries GR E AT B O O KS .
a fantastical, even ridiculous tale, based on something peculiar to fction: imagine a lit- me is that people who GO TO V F.C O M/
JU LY2 0 14 .
absurd and improbable premises.” erary world in which most people didn’t read only one or two
For Wood’s crowd the measuring stick care how a poem was written!” (Tartt was books a year will plunk down their money for
in determining what’s serious literature is a not available to comment, but Jay Mc- The Goldfnch, and read it, and tell themselves
sense of reality, of authenticity—and it’s pos- Inerney says she doesn’t read reviews, and they like it, but deep down will be profoundly
bored, because they aren’t children, and will
quietly give up on the whole enterprise when,
in fact, fction—realistic fction, old or new—is
CRITICS DERIVE “A SATISFACTION IN as alive and gripping as it’s ever been.”

KNOCKING A BOOK Is Donna Tartt the next Charles Dickens?


In the end, the question will be answered

OFF ITS PEDESTAL,”


not by The New York Times, The New Yorker,
or The New York Review of Books—but by
whether or not future generations read her.
SAYS AUTHOR CURTIS SITTENFELD. Just as a painter can be castigated by his
contemporaries and still wind up the most
prized painter at the Metropolitan Museum
of Art, a writer can sell millions of books,
sible even in books that are experimental. In isn’t “losing any sleep” over the negative ones.) win prizes, and be remembered as no more
Lorin Stein’s view, best-sellers such as Mary Wieseltier has come to a rather more ex- than a footnote or punch line. It’s a fght that
Gaitskill’s Two Girls, Fat and Thin and Hilary pansive defnition of serious literature. “Tartt’s will be settled only on some new version of
Mantel’s Wolf Hall may stand the test of time novel, like all novels that purport to be serious, the Kindle, yet to be designed. �
“not because a critic says they’re good, but should of course pass before the bar of all the
because … they’re about real life. I don’t serious critics, and receive all the judgments
want stage-managing from a novel. I want fc- that they bring forth,” says Wieseltier, who has FROM THE ARCHIVE
For these related stories, visit VF.COM/ARCHIVE
tion to deal in the truth.” dipped into the book enough to put it in the
It’s a view he may have inherited from his serious category. “But if a serious book really • Donna Tartt’s The Secret History
(James Kaplan, September 1992)
former boss Jonathan Galassi, the president catches on, it may be less important that its
of Farrar, Straus and Giroux, which, along strictly literary quality is not as great as one •A portrait of Donna Tartt
(David Gilbert, November 2013)
with Alfred A. Knopf, is arguably the most might have hoped and more important that
• The art of publishing The Art of Fielding
prestigious of publishing houses. (Galassi ed- it’s touched a nerve, that it is driven by some (Keith Gessen, October 2011)
its, among others, Jonathan Franzen, Jefrey deep human subject and some true human
50 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
Shailene Woodley belongs to a new breed of
Hollywood star for whom the only
sane reaction to 24-7 scrutiny is being completely
themselves. With Woodley carrying this
month’s much-anticipated The Fault in Our Stars
and filming the second Divergent movie,
KRISTA SMITH learns how she deals
(George Clooney helps), while MIGUEL REVERIEGO
photographs her and a posse of her peers

The
52
NEXT
VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
SHAILENE WOODLEY
Hometown: Simi Valley, California. Age: 22.
Up next: The Fault in Our Stars, with
Ansel Elgort. Favorite sneakers: Vibram FiveFingers.
Favorite movie to watch with
parents: “Y Tu Mamá También or FernGully.”
Favorite jeans: Overalls.
Last TV binge watch: Top Chef.
F OR C RE DI TS, TU RN TO PAGE 113

WAVE JU LY 2 014
ST Y L E D BY JESSICA DIEHL 53
I
earned $145 million and will spin of three more. This month,
Woodley will carry another much-anticipated flm, The Fault in
Our StarsÑbased on John Green’s beloved young-adult novel,
which has been on the New York Times best-seller list for more
than 120 weeks—into cineplexes worldwide. The preview is the
most-liked trailer in the history of YouTube.
“Shai,” as she is called by her friends and family, grew up in
Simi Valley, California (home of the Ronald Reagan Presidential
Library), and started acting at around age fve. “But it took a long
time,” she remembers. “I had 500 nos before I had one yes—and it
was a Honda commercial.” She went on to star in about 40 com-
mercials before landing her frst lead role, in the ABC Family televi-
sion series The Secret Life of the American Teenager, in 2008. (In the
meantime, Woodley was diagnosed with scoliosis. “I wore a back
brace 18 hours a day for two years straight,” she says.)
An even bigger break came when, after an exhaustive search, di-
rector Alexander Payne cast her as George Clooney’s daughter in
the Oscar-winning The Descendants. The part earned Woodley a
Film Independent Spirit Award and a Golden Globe nomination
for best supporting actress. At frst, Woodley wasn’t sure she was
ready for her newfound success and mused aloud about quitting
acting to become an herbalist, exploring her interest in medicinal
plants. “Somebody came to me and said, ‘I can’t wait to see what
you do next.’ I took that as pressure—that I had to live up to some-
body else’s expectations,” she recalls. “There were a few months
where I was like, ‘I don’t want to act anymore.’ And then I got
over it and realized it’s none of my business what other people
think of me.”
f you ever lose your way The other big takeaway Woodley got from her frst flm was Cloo-
in the hills above Los Angeles, or elsewhere, you’ll want Shailene ney himself. “He has been an angel in my life for many reasons,”
Woodley by your side. “See all of that beautiful stuf?” the 22-year- she says of Hollywood’s perennial Everyman. She credits the actor
old actress says, pointing at a patch of green vegetation just of the for reafrming everything she was taught to believe in. “He knew
hiking trail in Fryman Canyon Park. “It’s called miner’s lettuce. If everyone’s name on set,” she says. “He treated everyone as an equal
you’re ever stranded in the wild, you can eat all of that.” and everyone got his warmth.”
Dressed in a white T-shirt and high-waisted skinny jeans, with a The admiration is mutual. “Shailene can do whatever she
cell phone tucked into her back pocket, Woodley would look like wants,” Clooney says. “If she wants to be a movie star, she has it.
any other millennial were it not for her perfectly lithe fgure, her If she wants to change the world, she will. Her talent and kindness
increasingly famous face, and, perhaps, her choice of water con- go hand in hand.”

D
tainer. In lieu of a designer bottle, Woodley clutches a glass Mason
jar. She stops to admire the vistas and picks up bits of trash left espite her chosen profession, Woodley didn’t
behind by other hikers—a plastic cap, a wrapper—and squeezes grow up in front of the television or watching
them into the pockets of her jeans. movies. “My parents were like, ‘Great, we have
Woodley isn’t your average twentysomething starlet. She’s part a free weekend. Let’s go camping!’ So I grew up
of a new breed, epitomized by Jennifer Lawrence, who pride them- outdoors, not really ever sitting on the couch.”
selves on, well, being themselves. But whereas Lawrence is the en- Woodley’s parents are psychologists who work
dearingly clumsy southern gal, Woodley is like a forest sprite who in education, and she credits them with giving her perspective on
might be doing something more wholesome with her life if flmmak- the constant disappointment that comes with being an actor. “I
ers weren’t so eager to give her one starring role after another. never saw it as rejection,” she says. “I saw it as an opportunity to
Hollywood was built on the backs of young actresses, from Shir- get better. Also, I learned over time that it obviously has to do with
ley Temple to Judy Garland to Elizabeth Taylor and beyond, but your acting, but it has a lot to do with luck.” Her parents divorced
today’s generation has to contend with a media environment that when she was 15; she remains close to them and to her brother, Tan-
is far more complicated—and precarious—than the ones the studio ner, 20, who briefy dabbled in acting and is now in college.
chiefs of the 20th century manipulated for their own purposes. In Woodley’s grandmother, a practitioner of alternative medicine,
an era when any false move can be broadcast by one fan to millions provided another kind of perspective: it was she who initiated her
of others in the blink of an eye, authenticity isn’t just a pose—it’s a granddaughter’s commitment to Mother Earth and health. “She
requirement. kind of opened my mind to it,” Woodley says. “And then when I
Like Lawrence, whose frst two Hunger Games movies have was 14, it was a really windy Southern California day, and I looked
grossed a combined $800 million, Woodley has her own post- up and the pine needles were swirling in the air and it was gorgeous.
apocalyptic  young-adult franchise, Divergent, based on the best- I looked down and there was all this trash swirling around. I was
selling series of novels by the 25-year-old writer Veronica Roth. like, ‘Do I want to be a part of that beautiful pine-needle world or
The first installment, which came out in March, has already this really tragic trash scene on the foor?’ ”
54 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
“If Clooney
she wants to change the world,”
says, “she will. Her talent
and kindness go hand in hand.

However committed Woodley is to saving the world one pine At her audition the next morning, the director says, “she was the
needle at a time, and she is very committed, she realizes that not character Hazel. She wasn’t at all the girl I had met the night before,
everyone wants to hear about it. “As much as this industry is a but over the course of getting to know her she is exactly who she is.
platform for talking about big issues, there’s also so many fuckin’ I had forgotten how idealistic you can be in your 20s. I’m cynical,
issues. You could talk about Russia, or Argentina, or fracking, or and she is really inspiring because she is so not.”
G.M.O.’s. Maybe the only thing that I’m supposed to do is just Anybody who has ever come into contact with Shai knows that
show up and be me in every moment. Because I do feel like one she is a hugger. A friend honked and stopped as we were coming
of my gifts is to be open and lovely—simple things like smiling at down the trail, and she leaned into the car and gave him a hug. Af-
strangers and having kind, small interactions. I think that is what’s ter our hike she was recognized by a teenage boy skateboarding in
going to ultimately shift things.” the parking lot—she gave him a hug. Before she met me she was at

I
Walt Disney Studios having a meeting, and I’m sure she gave every-
t has been a fast ride since The Descendants. There was body there hugs, too. That’s who she is.
last year’s Sundance-award-winning hit The Spectacular I ask John Green, who spent a lot of time with Woodley dur-
Now. There was flming the action-packed Divergent, in ing the flming of The Fault in Our Stars, if he is concerned about
which Woodley appears in every scene. There was another her openness. “I think everyone who cares about her can’t imag-
Sundance Film Festival appearance in January, in Gregg ine her not being that person,” he says. “But so far she seems to
Araki’s dramatic thriller White Bird in a Blizzard, which handle it all with great grace.”
Magnolia Pictures will release later this year. “She has a calmness to her that I would have paid to have at her
Then there was The Amazing Spiderman 2. Woodley played age and an air of stability,” says her Divergent co-star Kate Winslet.
Mary Jane Watson (Spiderman’s romantic interest, played by “This is a woman who can cope. She is quietly prepared and un-
Kirsten Dunst in the frst Spiderman trilogy), but the character was complaining. She can navigate rough waters if there are any, and
ultimately cut from the sprawling flm. “For a few hours it was liter- she will come out the other side smiling, hugging everyone, which
ally like, ‘Oh, my God, was I awful? Why did they cut me? What is genuine, too, by the way. And most importantly, she will be ex-
are people going to think?’ I woke up the next morning and I was actly the same girl—acting up a storm, taking risks, and giving the
like, ‘O.K., it makes total sense.’ I’m a pretty spiritual person, so next generation a great new role model to be inspired by.”
I can just sit back and trust that everything happens for a reason, As for her male co-stars, Woodley considers herself lucky not to
even if my ego doesn’t like it.” have had to work with any, as she puts it, “dicks.” “You can just
She also didn’t have time to obsess about it. During a recent really relate to her, and you can see somebody you know in that
break from filming Insurgent—the second installment of the Di- girl,” says Miles Teller, Woodley’s co-star in both The Spectacular
vergent series, due out in 2015—she found herself couch-surfng at Now and Divergent. “That’s why Shailene’s so good. She’s just like
friends’ homes. “I’ve been in this place in life where I don’t want to a positive energy force that’s very infectious.” Ansel Elgort, in a
own anything,” she says. “I got rid of almost everything except what role certain to make teenage girls swoon, co-stars as her amputee
would ft into a carry-on suitcase.” boyfriend in The Fault in Our Stars, and he was also, in a tricky hur-
The Fault in Our Stars, which took Woodley to Amsterdam dle for the producers, her brother in Divergent. Nonetheless, faintly
(where she had gone backpacking at 18) and to Pittsburgh, is a echoing the pairings of the Old Hollywood star system, their chem-
beautiful modern love story about two teenagers, Hazel and Gus, istry is electric and undeniable. “She’s just so present and there and
with a heartbreaking twist. Director Josh Boone says, “I told the just real,” Elgort says. “So it’s pretty easy to just work of of her.”
studio it’s like Titanic, except the iceberg is cancer.” I ask Woodley, who is single, if she ever would date a fellow ac-
Woodley was so moved by Green’s novel—which has sold tor. “I’m never going to say never. I love acting, but I also really
seven million copies worldwide and has been translated into 46 love nature and most actors don’t want to get dirty.” Although
languages—that she reached out to the author directly. “She wrote Woodley isn’t frequently out and about with other actors her
me a long—very long—e-mail before the movie rights even sold,” age, she does share a special camaraderie with Teller. “I look at
Green says. “I remember being sort of overwhelmed by it, be- Miles and, like, I’m sort of Julia Roberts in the same way she is to
cause it was so long and so positive, and she was so relentless in George. Their relationship I could see being our relationship in 20
her certainty that she should play Hazel.” years, and that really is special.”
Woodley also made an unusual impression on the director. “She The last word on Woodley comes from the male co-star who
was such a strange, interesting person,” Boone says of his frst en- perhaps knows her best. “We’ll be talking about Shailene 40 years
counter with the actress. “She talks about health and is really pas- from now,” Clooney says. “I’ve never seen anyone so young that
sionate about what she believes; I wasn’t sure what to make of her.” has so much together.”
JU LY 2 014 www.vanityfair.com VA NIT Y FAIR 55
} }
THE
N EXT
WAVE

BELLA
THORNE
Hometown:
Pembroke Pines, Florida.
Age: 16. Up next:
Alexander and the Terrible,
ODEYA RUSH Horrible, No Good,
Hometown: Haifa, Very Bad Day. Twitter or
Israel. Age: 17. Instagram: “Ooh,
Up next: The Giver, that’s difficult. I can’t choose
with Meryl Streep. between my babies.”
iPhone or Samsung: Last concert: Jay Z and
“iPhone. Samsungs Kanye West. First
are huge and don’t fit headshot: Age three.
in girls’ pockets.” Secret talent:
Favorite movie to “Tongue tricks.” Miley
watch with parents: or Taylor: Miley.
Apocalypse Now.
Dream car: Ford
Escape. Siblings:
Six brothers (including
two sets of boy twins).
Miley Cyrus
or Taylor Swift:
Taylor.
F O R CR ED ITS , T URN TO PAG E 113

56
JOSH WIGGINS DAYO OKENIYI
Hometown: Houston. Age: 15. Up next: Hometown: Lagos, Nigeria. Age: 25.
Lost in the Sun, with Josh Duhamel. Up next: Terminator: Genesis, with
WhatsApp or SMS: ÒMy brother is Arnold Schwarzenegger. Favorite app:
in South Korea, in the military, Twitter. Last album downloaded:
so I use WhatsApp.Ó Last album Mastermind, by Rick Ross.
downloaded: Mechanical Bull, Favorite movie to watch with
by Kings of Leon. parents: The Sound of Music.

TYE SHERIDAN
Hometown:
Palestine, Texas. Age:
17. Up next: Dark
Places, with Charlize
Theron. iPhone
or Samsung: iPhone.
Last concert:
ÒI went to see Snoop
Dogg with Nicolas
Cage.Ó Favorite jeans:
LeviÕs. Justin
Bieber or Harry
Styles: Bieber.
Guilty-pleasure
song: ÒWe,Ó
by the Roches.

DYLAN O’BRIEN
Hometown: Springfield,
New Jersey.
Age: 22. Up next: The
Maze Runner,


with Will Poulter. Last

Mamma Mia!
TV binge watch:
Brooklyn Nine-Nine.
Last concert: Coldplay

is really fire. My
at the Hollywood
Bowl. Favorite
sneakers: Old-school

parents are big


90s Adidas.
Favorite movie to


watch with parents:

Abba people.
Nymphomaniac:
Vol. I. Guilty-
pleasure song:
ÒWrecking Ball,Ó
by Miley Cyrus. — DAYO O K E N I Y I

JU LY 2 014 www.vanityfair.com VA NIT Y FAIR 57


}
THE
N EXT
WAVE } “
I’ve got a man
David Beckham; I’m
to admit it.

— W I L L P O U LT E R

JADEN SMITH
Hometown: Calabasas,
California. Age: 16.
Up next: The Karate Kid 2, with
Jackie Chan. Twitter or
Instagram: “If I can stay off
of both, I will.” Favorite movie
to watch with parents:
Mr. Peabody & Sherman. Last
song downloaded:
“Cool Water,” by Jaden Smith.
Favorite jeans: “I don’t
like jeans. I like drop-crotch
pants because jeans
are restricting to my legs.”

F O R CR EDI TS , T URN TO PAGE 113

WILLOW SMITH
Hometown: Calabasas, California. Age: 13.
Big break: I Am Legend. Twitter or Instagram:
Twitter. Favorite shoes: Dr. Martens.
Favorite movie to watch with parents: “Feminist
documentaries.” Starbucks order:
Cotton-candy Frappuccino with extra whipped cream.
Dream car: Matte forest-green Jeep.

58 VANIT Y FA I R JU LY 2014
crush on
not afraid

BEN SCHNETZER
Hometown:
New York City. Age: 24.
Up next: Warcraft,
with Paula Patton.
Favorite reality show:
Dog the Bounty Hunter.
Last TV binge
watch: Six Feet Under.
Favorite movie
to watch with parents:
Dances with Wolves.
Miley Cyrus or Taylor
Swift: “Oh,
God. Joanna Newsom.”
Justin Bieber or Harry
MAIKA MONROE Styles: “Um,
Eddie Vedder?”
Hometown: Santa Barbara, California. Age: 20.
Up next: The Guest, with Dan Stevens.
Last song downloaded: Anything by
Blood Orange. Twitter or Instagram: Instagram.
Secret talent: Kiteboarding. Person she’d
like to meet: Jack Nicholson. Justin Bieber W ILL PO U LTER
or Harry Styles: “Harry Styles. Duh.” Hometown: London.
Age: 21. Up next:
The Maze Runner, with OLIVIA COOKE
Dylan O’Brien. Hometown: Manchester, England.
Last selfie: “Just now. Age: 20. Up next: Ouija, a thriller from
I was wearing a do-rag.” Universal. Last TV binge watch:
Favorite jeans: Top of the Lake. Favorite jeans: Rag &
Givenchy. Favorite Bone. Starbucks order: “Vanilla
sneakers: “Retro Jordan latte—full fat.” Person she’d like to
5s in varsity red meet: Kate Winslet. Favorite reality show:
and black.” Dream car: The Real Housewives of New Jersey.
Aston Martin DB9.
Person he’d like to
meet: Jay Z.

J ULY 2014 www.vanityfair.com VA NIT Y FAI R 59


“I’d reallyEngland.
like to meet the Queen of
That would be cool.
Or Mick Jagger.
” — JAC K K I L M E R

LILY J AMES
Hometown: London. Age: 25. Up next: The lead in
Cinderella, with Cate Blanchett. Favorite app:
Cycle Planner. Last TV binge watch: Breaking Bad.
Starbucks order: Black coffee. Favorite
sneakers: Converse. Miley Cyrus or Taylor Swift:
Miley. Can’t live without on set: A book.

JU LY 2014
} }
THE
N EXT
WAVE

JACK KILMER
Hometown: Los Angeles. Age: 18. Big break:
Gia Coppola’s Palo Alto. Favorite app:
“Touchgrind. You get to skateboard with your fingers.”
Last TV binge watch: Twin Peaks. Person
he’d like to meet: Queen Elizabeth II.
Favorite sneakers: Superga. Favorite reality-TV
star: “Bret Michaels. No question.”
F O R CR ED ITS , T URN TO PAG E 113

JU LY 2 014 www.vanityfair.com VAN IT Y FAIR 61


} }
THE BRITT
ROBERTSON
N EXT Hometown: Greenville,
WAVE South Carolina.
Age: 24. Up next:
Tomorrowland, with George
Clooney. Favorite
app: Uber. Starbucks order:
White-chocolate
Frappuccino, with a
Marshmallow Dream Bar.
Favorite reality-TV
star: NeNe, from The Real
Housewives of Atlanta.
Can’t live without
on set: Mountain
Dew. Justin Bieber or
Harry Styles: Harry.

EVE HEWSON
Hometown: Dublin, Ireland. Age: 22.
Up next: The Knick, on Cinemax. Pets: “I have
a roommate. He’s kind of like a pet.” iPhone
or Samsung: iPhone. Beauty secret: Coconut oil.
Favorite reality-TV star: Khloé Kardashian.
Favorite candy: Skittles. Last song downloaded:
“Stay with Me,” by Sam Smith.

{
@vf.com
FO R V I D EO O F
SH A IL EN E ,
W ILLOW, J A D EN ,
A ND T HE GA N G
GO TO V F. CO M /
JU LY2 0 1 4 .

62 VA NI T Y FA I R JU LY 2014
ZOEY DEUTCH
Hometown: Studio City, California. Age: 19.
Big break: Ringer, on the CW.
Last selfie: “Right now, to check if I had red lipstick on
my teeth.” Last song downloaded:
“Fancy,” by Iggy Azalea. Favorite movie to watch
with parents: Anchorman. Starbucks order:
Tall iced two-pump hazelnut latte.
Person she’d like to meet: Hillary Clinton.

“I dress
pretty much
like a nine-
year-old boy. ”
F O R CR ED ITS , T URN TO PAG E 113

—EVE HEWSON

JU LY 2 014 www.vanityfair.com VAN IT Y FAIR 63


} }
THE
N EXT
WAVE

JACK REYNOR
Hometown: Dublin, Ireland. Age: 22. Up
next: Transformers: Age of Extinction,
with Mark Wahlberg. Favorite app: Sleep Cycle.
Last TV binge watch: Life’s Too Short. Favorite
sneakers: Nike Air Max. Dream car:
Classic Rolls-Royce Phantom. Favorite jeans: Levi’s.
Can’t live without on set: “My fiancée.”

“ Seeing
Die Hard
when I was six
was a kick up
the arse.
— JAC K R E Y N O R
” DOUGLAS BOOTH
Hometown: London. Age: 21. Up next: Jupiter
Ascending, with Mila Kunis. Twitter or
F O R CR EDI TS , T URN TO PAGE 113

Instagram: Twitter. Childhood pets: “I had, like,


17 pets.” Last TV binge watch: House
of Cards. Person he’d like to meet: Barack Obama.
Starbucks order: “Something
naughty, like a double chocolate-chip cappuccino.”
Secret talent: Trumpet.

64 VAN IT Y FA IR J ULY 2014


KATIE CHANG
Hometown: Chicago.
Age: 19. Up next:
Anesthesia, with Kristen
Stewart. Twitter or
Instagram: Neither.
Favorite reality-TV star:
Monte, from Say Yes
to the Dress: Atlanta.
Favorite movie to watch
with family: “Miracle,
the hockey movie.
My brothers can recite it.”
Starbucks order:
Green tea. Can’t
live without on set:
“My mom.”

ZOË KRAVITZ SAMI GAYLE


Hometown: Los Angeles. Hometown: Weston,
Age: 25. Up next: Florida. Age: 18.
Mad Max: Fury Road. Up next: The Congress,
Last album downloaded: with Harvey Keitel.
Beck’s Morning Phase. LIANA LIBERATO Pet: “I have a little
Last TV binge watch: Hometown: Galveston, Texas. Age: 18. Up Yorkie named Licorice
Portlandia. Person next: Dear Eleanor, with Jessica Alba. Banana.” Last TV
she’d like to meet: Robert First headshot: “When I was nine, or eight binge watch: Sex and the
Plant. Dream car: “One maybe.” Person she’d like to meet: City. Last concert:
of those Volkswagen buses, Michelle Williams. Favorite reality-TV star: New Kids on the Block.
like the old ones.” “Got this one. Abby Lee Miller, Dance Secret talent: Tap
J ULY 2 014 Miley or Taylor: Miley. Moms. Obsessed.” dancing. 65
V. F. P O RT RA I T

David Boies &


Theodore Olson
In one of the most unlikely partnerships in
civil-rights history, David Boies and Ted Olson teamed up
to fight California’s ban on same-sex marriage—
all the way to the Supreme Court. A year after their victory,
which the superlawyers have chronicled in a
new book, LIONEL BARBER recalls what brought the
political opposites (and onetime combatants) together.
Photograph by ANNIE LEIBOVITZ

T
solicitor general under George W. Bush. His
journey in defense of same-sex marriage was
never going to be straightforward.
Ted spoke in a rich baritone which com-
manded attention. Republican friends found
his decision hard to swallow. He himself
had been initially wary—until he met one
same-sex couple in particular and felt their
pain in the face of discrimination. He used
that word, “pain,” several times. I remem-
hey are America’s ber, too, his closing argument: “These are
odd couple: two superlawyers, one Demo- people who want to participate in life as
cratic, the other Republican, who teamed up citizens the way the rest of us do.”
to overturn Proposition 8, California’s ban David’s account was more matter-of-
on same-sex marriage, in a Supreme Court fact: dispassionate analysis mixed with
ruling which made civil-rights history. remorseless logic and a famed iron will.
David Boies and Theodore B. “Ted” This is the man who overcame dyslexia to
Olson are living proof that bipartisanship become one of the top trial lawyers in the
is not (yet) dead and buried in Washing- country, the successful defender of CBS in
ton. Back in 2000, they faced of in Bush the Westmoreland libel case, the scourge
v. Gore, which decided the election. Nine of Microsoft, and a noted philanthropist,
years later, they set aside their party al- who has endowed nine chairs at universi-
legiances in favor of a common principle: ties from N.Y.U. to Yale.
that equal rights for gays and lesbians to Somehow David and Ted have found
marry was not a liberal or conservative is- time in their packed schedules to write
sue. It was a basic human-rights issue. their story in a new book—Redeeming the
Last summer, I heard frsthand the story Dream: The Case for Marriage Equality.
of their unlikely partnership. A group of us (HBO’s documentary on the trial, The Case
F O R DE TA I L S, GO TO VF.CO M/C RE DI TS

were cruising off the Amalfi coast, one of Against 8, is also out this month.)
the most stunning seascapes in the Mediter- Lawyers often get a hard time in Ameri-
ranean. Good wine (another common Boies- ca. But in the case of same-sex marriage, so
Olson cause) fowed; so did the post-lunch long a taboo, two distinguished attorneys
conversation. A fellow passenger prodded turned out to be way ahead of the politicians.
CR E DI TS HE RE

Ted to tell his story. Why Ted, not David? That’s a tribute to David and Ted—and to
Because Ted is a true conservative, a former the vibrancy of American democracy. �

66 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JULY 2 014


THEY FOUGHT
THE L AW
David Boies and Theodore
Olson in the lawyers’ waiting
room at the New York State
Supreme Court’s Appellate
Division, First Department,
in New York City.

www.vanityfair.com VA N IT Y FAI R 67
THE NEW Dubai International Airport has surpassed Heathrow as the
world’s busiest global hub, while three Gulf airlines—Emirates, Qatar Airways,
and Etihad—are scooping up passengers. Boarding a lavishly
appointed Airbus A380 at Dubai’s $4.5 billion Terminal 3, GRAHAM BOYNTON
examines the tectonic shift in aviation that threatens
to leave the West’s cramped, bare-bones carriers in the dust

LUXURY
L AYOVER
Perched atop the
terminal, the Emirates
lounge at Dubai
International
serves well-heeled
68 fiers in style.
W JET AGE

J ULY 2 014 P H OTO GR AP H S BY STEPHEN WILKES www.vanityfair.com VA NIT Y FAI R 69


moving it past London’s Heathrow as the world’s busiest interna-
tional airport. By 2018 that number is expected to pass 90 million,
overtaking vast domestic hubs such as Atlanta and Beijing.
And yet this is just the beginning. A few miles across the tiny
emirate another enormous, fve-runway airport is under construc-
tion. For now, Dubai World Central serves partly as a cargo air-
port. But late in the next decade Emirates airline plans to transfer
its operations there. The result: by 2025 more than 220 million
travelers will be passing through the city’s airports annually. For
Dubai, world domination is literally on the horizon.

N
On the Wing
ow follow these passengers onto one of the
Emirates Airbus A380s. Emirates, owned
by the government of Dubai, is one of the
world’s fastest-growing international airlines
and is a game changer in global travel. Together
with the two other nouveau Gulf carriers, Qatar
wo o’clock in the morning and I am Airways and Abu Dhabi’s Etihad, the national airline of the United
standing at the crossroads of the modern world. Like a pinball Arab Emirates, it has already made the European and North Ameri-
machine, the arrivals-and-departures board clicks of the names can warhorses of aviation seem down-at-heel and out of date. There
of international cities—Dhaka, Colombo, Damascus, Male, Perth, are many reasons for their unlikely emergence out of these arid des-
Manchester, New York, Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City—and wave ert communities—oil frst and foremost. But beyond this, there is the
after wave of citizens of the 21st century move this way and that allure of the voyage. A passenger’s trip through the airport inspires a
through this massive marble-and-glass terminal. measure of wonder. And the magic-carpet experience on one of these
One can’t help staring in wonder. Denim-clad construction work- aircraft is rather like checking into a small luxury hotel on the wing.
ers from the Indian subcontinent are slumped over seats waiting I join the stream of travelers transferring from the concourse
for their fights to be called; Armani-draped businessmen carry- to a shining new aircraft, around 400 boarding on the lower level
ing Gucci leather briefcases head for the frst-class lounges; young, into economy class and some 90 on the upper foor to business
loving couples sleep entwined on the sofas that line the walkways. and frst. On both tiers the passengers are greeted by a phalanx
The fnal call for the Emirates fight to Jidda summons a posse of of attractive young air hostesses recruited from all over the world.
women in burkas, who scurry to the gate. Walking in strict forma- (Though Emirates employs male stewards, none is in evidence to-
tion in the opposite direction, behind a young man hoisting a yellow day.) The cabin announcements reveal that the crew on this fight
fag, is a group of neatly dressed, middle-aged Japanese women. can speak English, French, German, Arabic, Spanish, Swahili,
The only near-stationary beings in this enormous cavern of activ- Mandarin, Italian, and Xhosa.
ity are the shoppers poring over items in 100 or so stores that run Although this is not my frst A380 fight, I am still somewhat awe-
the length of the terminal, stacked with everything from the usual struck at how this 550-ton aircraft, after an almost silent and appar-
electronic gizmos and perfumes to $11,000 bottles of 1947 Cheval ently efortless surge of its four Engine Alliance GP7200 engines,
Blanc. (At Le Clos fne wines, the salesperson tells me she has al- seems to foat into the air after what appears to be a rather sedate
ready taken in $100,000—in a single sale—that evening.) rumble down the runway. Previously, my most vivid aviation experi-
And so the well-oiled people-moving machine keeps turning, ence had been on the Concorde, which, by dramatic contrast, rock-
10 gigantic elevators shifting travelers up and down the termi- eted across the tarmac at breathtaking speed and tinnitus-inducing
nal’s 11 foors, a subterranean train shuttling them between con- decibels and scythed its way into inner space with all the roman-
courses, 82 moving walkways. Perpetual motion, 24-7, 365 days tic, devil-may-care optimism that defned life in the booming late-
a year. 20th century. But this is commercial air travel in the credit-crunch
This is Dubai International Airport’s $4.5 billion Terminal 3, the 21st, and the A380 is a high-tech piece of aerospace pragmatism.
exclusive province of Emirates airline. Covering nearly 18.5 million Carrying 525 passengers up to 8,500 nautical miles nonstop (the
square feet, it is the largest air terminal on the planet. Dubai Inter- Dubai–New York leg takes about 131⁄2 hours), the plane hums along
national also ranks alongside Singapore’s Changi, Hong Kong In- in relative quiet—with astounding eco-correctness. Airbus claims
ternational, and Beijing Capital International as the most passenger- that the A380 uses 20 percent less fuel than the Boeing 747, and that
friendly. Every week from this airport’s Jetways, 130 international when fully laden and fying long-haul it is more fuel-efcient per pas-
airlines operate more than 6,000 fights to some 260 destinations on senger than a Toyota Prius.
every continent except Antarctica. The A380 is not a particularly pretty aircraft by the
In January 2013, Dubai International opened Con- Concorde’s aesthetically pleasing standards; some air-
course A—aviation’s frst facility dedicated entirely to MAKING AN EXIT line bufs say it looks as if one bus has been squashed
Airbus A380 superjumbos. Located in Terminal 3, Opposite, underneath on top of another. But the space inside—the interior
it is a magnifcent building. Huge frst- and business- swooping arches, volume—is very impressive. The frst-class cabin com-
class lounges connect directly to the A380 upper an Emirates prises 14 suites that are equipped with sliding doors
pilot and two fight
decks; economy-class passengers board from the attendants stride for complete privacy as well as a vanity table, personal
lower level. The new concourse has already increased through the carrier’s mini-bar, wardrobe, desk, 23-inch television screen,
Dubai’s traffic to 75 million passengers a year, Dubai terminal. and what is efectively an armchair that converts into
70 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
JU LY 2 014 71
EVERY WEEK 130 INTERNATIONAL

72 VAN IT Y FAIR www.vanityfair.com JULY 2 014


AIRLINES OPERATE 6,000 FLIGHTS TO 260 DESTINATIONS.

FIRST-CL ASS
CACHET
In an Emirates A380,
seats recline into beds.
Opposite: top, a
day-to-night view of the
exterior of Dubai
International
Concourses B and C;
bottom, palms
adorn the baggage-
J ULY 2014 claim area. 73
74 VAN IT Y FA IR www.vanityfair.com JULY 2 014
MILE HIGH
a bed. And if you want to take a shower at 40,000 Opposite: The second shift came with the arrival of the jet
feet, there are two of those on board. The food-and- top, Emirates fight age, in 1958, the introduction of the Boeing 747 a
wine menu is also appropriately lavish, with caviar, attendants aboard little over a decade later, and then the 1978 deregu-
Dom Pérignon, Cakebread chardonnay, and 1989 a roomy A380; bottom, lation of the U.S. airline industry. In the early days
the well-stocked
Gruaud-Larose all standard fare. bar in business class of mass air travel, national airlines such as Pan Am
At the back of the upper-deck cabin, directly be- is the aircraft’s and TWA and fag-carrying European airlines (Brit-
hind business class, is the pièce de résistance: a fully most popular amenity. ish Airways, Air France, Lufthansa) ruled the world
operative stand-up bar that has been the social hub through government-protected colonial-route net-
on every Emirates A380 fight I have taken. To make works. But as the colonies evaporated and new busi-
space for this in-fight lounge, Emirates president Tim Clark says, he ness models challenged regulation, the legacy U.S. behemoths be-
has had to sacrifce six premium seats, but declares, “It’s the most gan to fall. First Eastern, then Pan Am, then TWA.
popular thing we’ve ever done. They have a real party down there.” Southeast Asia then heralded the third tectonic shift. Introducing
On this fight a group of Italian contractors join two British couples high-quality, service-led air travel, airlines such as Cathay Pacifc, Sin-
around the bar soon after takeof. And they’re all still there six hours gapore Airlines, Thai, and the rest all fourished as the international
later as the plane starts its descent. It is, indeed, some party. business-travel market grew, and as the old-world airlines struggled to
Even the humble masses in coach are able to partake of the survive. These feets provided more comfortable seating, particularly
A380’s in-fight video-and-audio system, which ofers more than at the front of the cabins, and a level of in-fight service that Western
1,500 channels featuring movies, television shows, news, games, airlines had failed to ofer with any conviction since the 50s.
and music from around the world, all delivered through high-end, Now we are in the fourth age. U.S. airlines are merging and
13-inch seatback monitors. morphing into giant entities with large domestic networks and rela-
For anyone who has endured the post-deregulation austerity tively small international reach, ofering only passable amenities on
of U.S. airlines over the past few decades—uncomfortable, over- rather old equipment. Meanwhile, the Gulf airlines feature quality
crowded, bare-bones bus journeys in the sky—the experience of service at a competitive price. Peter Morris, chief economist at the
fying on Emirates, Etihad, or Qatar comes close to recapturing aviation consultancy frm Ascend, says that these carriers have now
the joy of jet travel from Pan Am’s heyday. There is a sense of fun “built enough critical mass to be a genuine threat to the traditional
on board, and that has come down from the top. Tim Clark says European airlines and in the near future to the Americans.”
he wants to bring a bit of glamour back into fying.

‘T
The sudden ascendancy of the Gulf airlines and their hub air- Shanghai on Steroids
ports is partially a result of geological fortune but mainly due to hey say that Dubai is Shanghai on steroids,”
good planning by the Emirati leaders. Emirates was founded in 1985 notes Clark as he stares out of his ofce win-
after Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum hired a British dow in the terminal, admiring a row of gleaming
Airways executive, Sir Maurice Flanagan, gave him $10 million, and Emirates A380s. A neat, dapper man in his 60s,
told him to build an airline. (Many start-up aviation frms begin by Clark reveals that his first job (after graduating
leasing most of their feet.) Aware that Dubai’s oil reserves would with an economics degree from the University of
run out in the early 21st century, Sheikh Mohammed had decided London) was as a bus conductor. That humble beginning, he says,
to transform his country from a petro-dependent mini-state to a di- taught him the basics of the transport trade “because right from
verse business powerhouse with tourism and aviation at its center. the start I was intrigued at the pricing structure and the type of bus
Today the airline has some 218 aircraft, with another 374 on feet, and saw great similarities when I joined the airline industry.”
order. What Flanagan and Clark, another exile from the British He subsequently spent 14 years in aviation before moving to Dubai.
aviation industry, have created is an airline that links the emerging Emirates has 47 A380s in service and another 93 ordered, but the
countries in Asia and Africa to Europe and the Americas. As Clark challenge of flling these giant aircraft as the world slowly emerges
points out, the U.A.E. is within eight hours’ fying time for half the from the global recession doesn’t faze Clark at all. He says 93 is no-
world’s population. And just as Emirates was connecting Africa and where near enough for Emirates’ needs, and then his eyes light up
the East to the rest of the world, so Emirates was joined by Qatar at the thought of all the potential customers out there in the modern
Airways in 1997 and then by Etihad in 2003 in its bid to shuttle this world. “Look at China,” he exclaims. “The Chinese market is big
new generation of business and leisure travelers around the globe. enough for all of us. There are cities we haven’t heard of—with popu-
lations half the size of Britain—and they’ve got three international
Four Tectonic Shifts fights a week.”
he emergence of these carriers marks the The only time that Clark seems to lose his air of afability is when
fourth tectonic shift in international aviation criticism of Emirates is raised by the “legacy” airlines. He says that
since Pan Am’s founder, Juan Trippe, democ- for years the leaders of these European and North American car-
ratized the industry in the early 1950s. Prior to riers have benefted from subsidies and tax advantages on fuel and
Trippe’s intervention, air travel was the domain had received export aid for new aircraft from Boeing and Airbus for
of the ruling classes, and fares between the U.S. which their domestic counterparts were ineligible. In any case, pleas
and Europe were fxed by the stodgy International Air Transport to keep the trio of Gulf airlines out of Europe and North America
Association. However, in 1952, Trippe decided to introduce a have failed, and all three, over the past few years, have signifcantly
tourist-class fare between New York and London and thus began increased service to European cities.
a decades-long battle between free-market fying and cartel-led “The Europeans accuse us of stealing their market,” Clark says,
regulation that would see the rise and fall of carriers such as Sir fairly agitated. “But it wasn’t theirs in the frst place. What right have
Freddie Laker’s Skytrain in the 70s and People Express in the 80s, they to take passengers from Africa to Asia or vice versa over Euro-
along with the breakout success of Virgin Atlantic. pean hubs? So a passenger who wants to go C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 1 1 4
JU LY 2 014 www.vanityfair.com VAN IT Y FAI R 75
Spotlight

S E T D E S IG N BY ROB ST R AUSS ST UD I O; P ROD UC E D ON LOC AT IO N BY RU TH LE V Y

Designer Ralph Lauren is this


year’s recipient of the Smithsonian’s
James Smithson Bicentennial
Medal, honoring his contributions
to the preservation of the flag
known as the Star-Spangled Banner;
photographed in New York City.

07
060 VA N I T Y FA
A II RR www.vanityfair.com
www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
TO the BANNER BORN

H
ad Ralph Lauren not left his native Bronx, let’s go ahead He knew the look he wanted. As a fledgling designer, he started off sell-
and assume, he would not be as closely identified as he ing ties out of a small office at the Empire State Building. He believed in
is today with a polo pony. Taken to its Capra-esque hy- his ability to sell us all an aspirational lifestyle. It was an idealized and
pothetical extreme, let’s try to imagine a world without accessorized version of America, where collars were popped, hair was
Ralph Lauren: no ponies, no picnics or casual beach gatherings at- tousled, and men seldom needed socks. Ralph even showed us how he
tended by sun-kissed kids and the well-turned-out adults who produced lived, what he wore, and the cars he drove. It hadn’t been labeled yet,
them. No sweaters with American flags on them (they made us feel but we now know it as a kind of casual chic. We were offered pieces of
better, warmer, and more patriotic during that first winter after 9/11), it, à la carte, and we couldn’t believe our good fortune.
no purple labels, red pants, or golden retrievers. If it’s true that clothes The iconic pony, as recognizable as any logo on the planet, has
make the man, it’s worth celebrating the man who makes the clothes. grown larger with age, and so has the company Ralph founded.
This month, Ralph Lauren is being awarded the James Smithson Bicen- Wherever I have traveled, in some of the remotest places on earth,
tennial Medal, recognizing his lifetime contributions to American entre- “Polo” is often the only word displayed in English—emblazoned on
preneurship, artistry, creativity, and vision—and especially his leadership knockoff garments the world over. For the founder, it must be the ulti-
role in the preservation of the Star-Spangled Banner, the flag that dates mate test of that old expression about imitation and flattery.
back to the War of 1812 and inspired the national anthem. It’s the latest Beyond the lapels and cuffs and studs and shades, Ralph’s proud-
of many honors for Ralph Lauren. Then again, it’s been a wonderful life. est achievement cannot be found in any product line. It’s his family.
Ralph Lauren was born of equal parts aspiration and inspiration; Ralph and Ricky, married nearly 50 years, have produced three stun-
the latter can be found in every frame of The Thomas Crown Affair, with ning children. The Lauren Five are as thick as thieves. They finish one
Steve McQueen, who once said his character in the film—a proper but another’s sentences and love one another madly. When seen togeth-
bored banker who takes an improper turn into robbing banks—was the er, they are the embodiment of the patriarch’s American ideal, and a
man he longed to be in real life. Perhaps young Ralph felt the same way. large part of what makes him the ideal American. — BRIAN WILLIA MS

{
@vf.com
E X P LO R E T HE
E VO LU T IO N O F
RAL P H LAU R EN ’ S
GR E AT ES T A D S .
GO TO V F. CO M /
JU LY 20 1 4 .

JU LY 2014 P H OTOG R A P H BY MARK SELIGER www.vanityfair.com


www.vanityfair.com VV A
ANN II TT Y F A I R 7
0700
LUCK BE A L ADY
Hollywood big shots
and assorted
billionaires could
win or lose
millions in a night at
one of Molly Bloom’s
poker games.

HER HOUS How did a 26-year-old cocktail waitress end up running a private weekly
the likes of Leo, Ben, and Tobey? In an adaptation from her new memoir, MOLLY
break, at the infamous Viper Room; the millions that crossed her

07
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A II RR www.vanityfair.com
www.vanityfair.com JULY 2 014
E of CARDS
poker game for some of Hollywood’s highest rollers, including
BLOOM, who has since gained notoriety as “the Poker Princess,” recalls her lucky
table; and the biggest winners—who could also be the worst losers
P H OTO IL LUSTR AT IO N BY DARROW VV A
ANN II TT Y F A I R 79
A
his buy-in as well. I knew from my research “Hi, honey,” Bob said now as I took his
that he had been an executive at of one of coat. I saw his eyes fick around the room; even
the most prestigious golf companies in the he got a little giddy when he saw that Leo was
world. Bob was a real-estate magnate, and there. Phillip walked in with his friend Mark.
Phillip came from a long line of European Mark was friends with Pete, a tennis legend,
aristocrats. His mother had been a glamor- who allegedly played high-stakes poker, too.
ous supermodel and his father was one of When he saw me, Phillip let out a low
the most famous playboys in Manhattan. whistle and kissed my hand.
Reardon came blasting in with his typical I blushed and looked at the foor, enjoying
“Oh yeah!” greeting. The rumpled Houston every surreal moment of being the only girl
showed up next, followed by Tobey and Leo. I among such handsome, accomplished men.
straightened my shoulders and smiled as natu- And then above the buzz of voices came
rally as I could. They are just people, I told Reardon’s ringing voice.
myself as butterflies flew manically around “Let’s play!!”
in my stomach. I introduced myself, took They settled into their seats, and the air
their buy-ins, and asked for their drink orders. flled with the smooth sounds of my Frank
When I shook Leo’s hand and he gave me a Sinatra playlist, the whirring of the Shufe
crooked smile from under his hat, my heart Master, the shufing of chips, and the hap-
raced a little faster. Tobey was cute, too, and py, playful banter of the players.
t he seemed very friendly. I didn’t have any When it was time for dinner, I ordered Mr.
6:45 p.m. I stood by the front door and backstory on Houston except that he was Chow’s. The guys weren’t thrilled about the
waited. I fdgeted with my dress. I started to somehow involved in the movie business. He idea of stopping the game to eat, and I made
feel insecure about how to greet the players. had kind eyes, but there was something difer- a mental note to get side tables and, in the fu-
I knew their names, but did that mean that I ent about him. He didn’t seem to belong with ture, let them eat their food at the poker table.
should introduce myself? this crowd. Steve, a major Hollywood direc- The game resumed after dinner at full
Stop it, I said in my head. I closed my eyes tor, and Dylan, a producer, showed up next. speed. I sat in the corner, watching Diego’s
and tried to calm down by imagining myself as The energy in the room was palpable. It hands fly around the table pushing chips
I wanted to be—not the Colorado girl scraping felt more like a sports arena than the base- and fipping cards—it was impossibly hard
by as a cocktail waitress. My boss, Reardon, ment of the Viper Room. to keep up with. Suddenly the noise dimmed
a real-estate investor, had decided I would Reardon fnished ripping into a sandwich and Mark stood up. He walked around the
be the hostess of a poker game he had orga- and shouted, “Let’s play.” table with his hands in his pockets.
nized at Hollywood’s infamous Viper Room. I watched, fascinated. It was all incredibly There was a giant stack of chips in the
“Molly Bloom, you are wearing the dress surreal. I was standing in the corner of the center. My eyes traced the perimeter of
of your dreams. You are confdent and fear- Viper Room counting one hundred thou- the table to see who still had cards.
less and you will be perfect.” None of this sand dollars in cash! I was in the compa- Tobey.
was true, of course, but I wanted it to be. I ny of movie stars, important directors, and Tobey just sat there eating the vegan
opened my eyes, lifted my chin, and relaxed powerful business tycoons. I felt like Alice snack he had brought from home. His round
my shoulders. It was showtime. tumbling down the rabbit hole. eyes were fxed on Mark.
The frst person to arrive was Todd, the As the players fled out, they thanked me, Mark deliberated while the rest of us held

PAGE S 78– 79 : P HOTO GR A PH S, FRO M LE F T, BY DAVE J . HO GA N /G ET T Y I MAG ES ( HE A D) ; © KA BI K /R ET NA LTD. /COR BI S; BY


famous writer and director. some kissed my cheek, but they all pressed bills our breath. I had no idea what was happen-

J O E KO HE N /F I L MM AGI C ( LE F T A RM A N D TO R SO ) , LO UI S L A NZ A NO / A .P. I M AGE S ( HE A D) ; BY DO N E MM ERT/ AFP/ GE TT Y


I MAG ES ( H EA D ) , DUN CA N N I CHO L LS A N D SI MO N W EB B /O J O I M AGE S/ GE TT Y I M AGE S ( B O DY ) ; BY L ESTE R CO HE N/
“Hello,” I said, warmly reaching out my into my hand. I smiled warmly and thanked ing, but I could feel the suspense.
hand. “I’m Molly Bloom.” I gave him a them in return, trying not to let my hands shake. “Call!” he announced.
genuine smile. When they were all gone, I sat down in Tobey looked at him in shock.
“Hi, gorgeous, I’m Todd—nice to meet a daze, and with trembling hands I counted “Call?” he asked.
you in person. $3,000. “Yes,” Mark said. “Do I have you?”
“Do I give the buy-in to you?” he asked. I tried to add the chips up in my head, but

F
“Sure,” I said, eyeing the giant stack of Hollywooding there were so many and they were everywhere.
hundred-dollar bills. or the second game, a week lat- “You got me,” Tobey said, and pushed
“Can I get you a drink?” I asked. er, I showed up in a sexy new his cards to Diego.
He ordered a Diet Coke. I went behind dress. Tobey smiled at Mark. “Nice hand, man.”
the bar and set the enormous amount of “Whoa, look at you,” the And then he looked directly at me, his
money down. dealer Diego said. “Your tips eyes fxed in a hard stare.
After I served him his drink, I started are going to be good tonight.” “Who is this guy?” Tobey texted me.
counting the stack. It was $10,000, all right. When Tobey and Leo walked in, the guys “Mark—he’s an attorney.”
I put it in the cash register with Todd’s name became a little shy and awkward, except for “I see” was all he wrote back.
on it. I felt cool, edgy, and dangerous counting Reardon, who fst-bumped Leo with a gruf I had a sinking sensation that I was now
that much money. The others started to arrive. “What’s happening, player?” While the guys in trouble.
Bruce introduced himself and handed me clustered around Leo, Tobey went over to The game picked up again, and I held my
Diego and handed him his Shufe Master. breath whenever Reardon was in a hand and
Adapted from Molly’s Game: From Hollywood’s The Shufe Master is a $17,000 machine that now Tobey too. I knew Reardon well enough
Elite to Wall Street’s Billionaire Boys Club, My is supposed to deliver a fair, random shufe to be certain that the thrill of the game
High-Stakes Adventure in the World of Underground every time and increases the speed of each wouldn’t last long if he lost every time. Clear-
Poker, by Molly Bloom, to be published this
month by It Books, an imprint of HarperCollins game. Last week, Tobey had told the guys he ly, I had to keep Tobey happy, too. They both
Publishers; © 2014 by the author. wouldn’t play without it. came out ahead, but every second leading up
80 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
WITH A $50,000 BUY-IN, THERE WAS
$500,000 ON THE TABLE BEFORE THE

CARDS WERE DEALT.

A
to the last hand of the game was so full of Full House
anticipation that by the end of the night fter several months I
I was completely emotionally exhausted. went behind Reardon’s
But I loved every minute of it. The game back and plotted with
lasted until three a.m. Phillip and Tobey to
As the guys fled out, I helped them make the game my
with their coats and valet tickets, air-kissed own. I thought Reardon
and/or hugged good-bye, and was hand- would be furious with me, but instead he
somely rewarded by each of them with said, “I’m proud of you᠁ The game is
cash or chips. I was immensely apprecia- yours. You earned it.”
tive; I felt like it was so much more than I Part of the fun each week was to bring
deserved. The biggest tippers were Phillip, in a new face. It was kind of interesting
Houston, and Bruce, who gave me espe- to watch the dynamics. The new guy al-
cially large sums, but I made sure to thank ways felt awkward at frst, and I tried my
each of them with the same amount of en- best to make him more comfortable. The
thusiasm. Tobey, despite being the biggest regulars, especially Todd and Reardon,
winner, gave me the smallest tip. tried to make him feel uncomfortable.
Once they were gone, Diego and I sat It was like watching a cliquish group of
down at the table. We combined our tips adolescent girls. If the guy started win-
and then counted it out: $15,000. Seventy- ning of the bat once he sat down,
fve hundred each. IN THE CHIPS he was picked on even more. If he

T
Bloom at the was losing or playing badly, the
he follow-up to the games Montage guys were much friendlier. If the
was always the same: Orga- I’m going to start charging Beverly Hills. new player was a celebrity or a bil-
nize the players. Pay anyone rent for the Shufe Master.” lionaire, then all bets were of and
who had won. Collect from I looked past him to the expansive foyer he was treated like royalty.
anyone who had lost. of his mansion in the hills. You could see You can tell a lot about a man’s character
At first, the money part straight through to the ocean. by watching him win or lose money. Money
stressed me out. I felt bad asking the losers I laughed. Surely he was joking. He couldn’t is the great equalizer.
HAIR BY GUY ROMEO; MAKEUP BY LIZA ZARETSKY; MANICURE BY L ALY ZAMBRANA; FOR DETAILS, GO TO VF.COM/CREDITS
TOMMY HILFIGER COLLECTION; HAIR PRODUCTS BY ORIBE; MAKEUP PRODUCTS BY NARS; NAIL ENAMEL BY JOHN RUSSO;

for money, and it took a lot of time to drive possibly be serious about charging rent for a With the addition of Ben, Derek, and
WIREIMAGE (HEAD); BY DANNY MARTINDALE/FILMMAGIC (HEAD). THIS PAGE: ST YLED BY NATALIE TOREN; GOWN BY

all over the city chasing and paying. But I machine he insisted that we use, from the guys Rick, I had more than enough players for
soon came to realize that those one-on-one whose money he was taking every week. the big game, and I started planning for the
meet-ups were great opportunities to really But he was as serious as death, and I following Tuesday at the Beverly Hills Hotel.
get to know the men at the table. quickly stopped laughing. I asked for Bungalow No. 1 because it was
On this particular Wednesday, I was “O.K.,” I squeaked. “Um, how much?” separate from the hotel, impressively ap-
scheduled to see Tobey and Phillip. “Two hundred dollars.” pointed, and had a circular foyer that would
I went to Tobey’s frst. I was getting used I smiled to conceal my surprise. be useful for keeping the food deliveries and
to dropping by there: Tobey won every week. “I’m sure that will be fne. No problem,” room service separate from the game.
I drove slowly up the steep drive, buzzed I said. More celebrities and higher stakes meant
the security bell, and announced myself. “Greeaaat,” he said. “Thanks, Molly. And that ensuring privacy was becoming more
“It’s Molly, dropping of a check.” there’s one other thing. I’d like to know who’s and more important. The higher the stakes,
The long tone indicated that I had clear- playing every week. If there’s going to be some- the greater the paranoia.
ance. The gates opened slowly and I drove one new, I would defnitely like to know who I decided to drop Ben’s name in an efort
in. At the end of the driveway was Tobey’s it is. In advance.” His words came out slowly, to land Arthur, the ultimate whale.
palatial house. sounding soft on the outside but with a sharp- I had been doing some checking around
He was already at the door when I got edged threat at the center. I fgured this was about Arthur, who was known for his love
there. “Heyyyy, how are you?” probably about the hand he had lost to Mark. of women and his mysterious but ample for-
“Hey,” I said, handing him the heavy and “No problem,” I repeated, wanting out of tune. I knew that he had more than enough
awkward Shufe Master. “Thanks for letting there before I promised him my frstborn and billions to cover his buy-in. I also knew that
us use this for the game.” my soul. he loved celebrity and that a superstar ac-
“No problem,” he said, taking the machine. “All righty, talk to you later,” he said, and tor like Ben was a perfect line to dangle.
“I wanted to chat with you about something.” waved a cheerful good-bye. I shook my head “Hey, Arthur. I’m doing a game for Ben,
“What’s up?” as I drove away. I would never understand and we would love it if you played,” I texted.
His eyes squinted for a moment. “I think rich people. Word was out now about the big game,
JU LY 2 014 P H OTO GRA PH BY JOHN RUSSO www.vanityfair.com VAN IT Y FAI R 81
and I had received a few calls from profes- guys, and so I knew they could handle it; I “Don’t run of with it,” he said.
sional poker players practically begging me also knew that it would create pots big enough We rejoined the others just in time to see
for a seat. Some ofered me straight cash, and to make even the richest guys sweat a little. Bosko and Gabe walk in. They gave me a cool
some a “free roll,” which means if they won I re-applied my lipstick and waited. I had hello; they were old-school and I knew it would
I would get a percentage, and if they lost I invited Tiffany and Lauren, new friends I take some time before they would show me any
wouldn’t have any liability. I knew that letting had made during a recent trip to Vegas. The respect. I didn’t care. My game spoke for itself.
pros into this game would be a surefre way to two of them showed up to serve drinks and Bob showed up next, and Mike asked me
lose it. The pros would win all the money, and act as decoration. They looked breathtaking. if we could begin.
part of what made my game so special was I knew the guys in the room tonight would “Guys, do you want to start?” I asked
the chemistry at the table and the fact that no- have a lot that made them want to stay—on above the excited banter.
body there played poker for a living. and of the table. Of course they did.
And it wasn’t just that every cardplayer The frst player to arrive was Derek, who They drew for seats, and the game was of
in Hollywood wanted to come to the games; was playing for the frst time and had come and running.
everyone’s friends and their friends wanted to recommended to me by Blake, a friend in In the very frst hand, Bob, Bosko, Mike,
come to watch. I felt that a huge part of this Vegas. “He’s young, rich, and a true degener- and Derek were all in. I got the chips and the
enterprise depended on discretion, so I tried ate,” Blake had told me. “He’s difcult, but he buy-in board ready. That hand went to Bob,
to discourage spectators when I could, but loses $10 to $20 million a year. You want his which made both Bob and Diego, whom
I couldn’t stop the guys from bringing girl- number.” Bob punished when he lost, very happy.
friends along to show of in front of, or the Tobey showed up with Houston. Mike The guys reloaded, laughing and joking.
occasional celebrity from stopping by. Some- showed next. He was a very successful trader “I’ll take 200,” said Mike.
times the rap producer Irv would bring Nelly who seemed a little ditsy but was a genius with I looked around the room for objections.
along. Celebrities were always allowed, to be numbers. I’d heard he was an absolute animal Mike wanted to make sure he had enough
honest. Like when the Olsen twins showed up at the table, as I found most traders were. He chips to take Bob down.
with a billionaire I was trying to land for the had the same routine of arriving and empty- “Actually,” Mike said, “make it 500.”
game. They were in, no questions asked. ing out his pockets, which always contained I looked at him and he nodded, so I count-
The fnal list for the big game was Tobey; a shocking number of items: golf tees, pens, ed $500,000 in chips and gave them to him.
Ben; my new whales, Derek and Rick; Bob; receipts, lip balm. He handed me his blank, “I’ll take 500, too,” said Derek.
Houston; and some new faces: Bosko, a dap- signed check, and I clipped it to my board. Ev- I looked at Tobey at the same moment he
per gentleman in his 60s; Mike, a finance ery player that night had done the same—given looked at me, and nodded to indicate that I
whiz who loved to gamble; and Gabe, who me a signed check, with the amount left blank had the money in cash. His eyebrows few
back in the day was a television star. All the to cover his buy-in and his losses if things didn’t up and he looked impressed.
players except Tobey and Houston were huge go his way. For the moment the holding com- I counted out Derek’s chips.
action. The going-all-in-blind kind of action. pany of Molly Bloom Inc. was ofcially rich. “Give me 300 more,” Bob said.

M
And the initial buy-in was $50,000, which Talk about a testosterone contest, I thought,
meant there would be half a million dollars ike went to join the other counting out the chips. The cards hadn’t even
on the table before the frst cards were dealt. guys, and I motioned been dealt for the second hand. As I counted
It was going to be a big night. Derek over. the chips I looked around the table to see if any-

I
He picked up his back- one else wanted to play Richest Guy at the Pok-
chose my outft carefully: a black dress pack and followed me er Table. With no takers, the action continued.
that was just clingy enough to be sexy into the bedroom, open- Just then I got a text from Ben.
but not enough to be vulgar. Black ing the bag as soon as I shut the door. He “Here,” it said.
Louboutins, Chanel pearls, and a light knew what I wanted: he had $250,000 in cash A surge of excitement coursed through my
jacket, which was important because and another $500,000 in Bellagio chips. As I body—and in that moment I realized how
I liked to keep the game room cool. had explained to him when we met earlier, much I had changed. Ben showing up for my
Colder temperatures kept players awake, and I couldn’t extend him credit his frst time at poker game was undeniably monumental, but
there was nothing worse than a tableful of tired, the game, so by bringing $750,000 he would the butterfies I was feeling now were excite-
lethargic poker players. I wanted the table ex- be able to buy in 15 times that night. ment that he was playing at my table, that he
ploding with action, energy, and conversation. Even though I was tripping on the was a part of my game.
The chemistry at a table is so important. amount of money I was being given, I smiled I greeted Ben at the door. He was tall and
You must start with a carefully balanced mix as if I did this every day. I didn’t want Derek handsome, with a relaxed charisma that not
of personalities. If the balance is of and the to start to wonder about the fact that he had all icons have in person.
stakes are too big for some of the players, it just handed three-quarters of a million dol- He looked surprised when I told him who
kills the game. Too small and everybody gets lars to a virtual stranger. “Great, I’ll just put I was.
bored. The $50,000 buy-in had attracted these it in the safe for now.” “You’re so young,” he said.

“C’MON,” TOBEY SAID, HOLDING

THE $1,000 CHIP


ABOVE MY HEAD. “BARK.”
82 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
Spotlight
“Not that young.” I winked. I was 27, but
I looked even younger. GoPRO, YOUNG MAN
I took his coat and showed
him the buy-in sheet. Nick Woodman,
His eyes flew open and he founder of GoPro,
looked at his watch. photographed
“Two million on the table al- at San Gregorio
ready?” State Beach,
in Northern
“Yep,” I said.
California.
“O.K., give me 50K.”
By now I had learned some-
thing about the psychology
behind the way a guy asks for
chips. Wanting to be overstocked
or short-stacked at a table is a
clear indication of playing style
and ego. Whereas some guys
want the tallest piles they can
manage, the better to bully the
table and scare people, Ben’s
buy-in choice told me that he
was a smart player who liked to
limit his downside, especially at
a table with a bunch of guys he
wasn’t used to playing with.

R I
ick showed up
next. Rick, the
videographer,
director, and
co-star of an infamous sex
n October 2012, when the Austrian stuntman Felix
tape, was crass and dirty, but
Baumgartner jumped from a balloon at nearly 128,000
he was still hot in a caveman kind of way.
I pulled him aside to show him the board. feet and exceeded the speed of sound during a free fall,
“Wow, they are swinging, huh?” he said, five little GoPro cameras were strapped to his suit to re-
looking down at me. “Want to fuck?” cord high-definition views of his heroics. At around the
I looked back at him, praying my face same time, GoPro became the best-selling video camera in the Unit-
wasn’t as red as it felt. ed States, and its inventor and chief promoter, a Northern California
“No thanks,” I said as casually as if he surfer named Nicholas Woodman, became a billionaire. Woodman
had asked me if I wanted a Tic Tac. is now 39 but seems younger. His success is due in part to his authen-
He laughed. ticity—he is a genuine member of the extreme-sports crowd, given to
HA I R PRO DUC TS BY A ME R IC A N CRE W; GRO O MI NG PRO DUC TS BY C L IN I QUE F O R M E N; GRO OM I NG BY TAMAR A
B ROWN ; P RO DUC ED O N L OC ATI O N BY CHRI ST IE EV ERY P RO DUC TI O NS ; F OR DE TA I LS , GO TO VF.CO M/C RE DI TS

“Give me 200K.” whooping and exclaiming “Awesome!” without irony. But he is also
Holy shit. I had a humongous poker game. an unusually focused businessman. Woodman started with the idea
As Rick took a seat, I saw him focus on of inventing a wrist strap to which surfers could attach a camera to
Ben. I saw the wheels turning. Oh God, I show themselves in action. He soon realized that, for lack of suitable
thought, don’t let Rick say anything embar- devices in the marketplace, he had to invent the camera too—some-
rassing. He had no flter. thing inexpensive, waterproof, mountable every which way, and
“Hey, yo, did Jennifer’s ass have cellulite providing an ultra-wide-angle view. In a world awash in polished
on it, or was it nice?” videos of professional surfers, he sympathized with the urge that or-
The table went silent. dinary surfers have to look like that, too. He called the camera the
Ben looked at Rick. Hero, and began to sell it to surf shops in 2004. It took off right away,
“It was nice,” he said, and pushed into a
with sales that grew from about 1,500 units the first year to at least
huge pot.
three million annually today. So it wasn’t just the surfing culture that
The table laughed and the ice was broken.
he tapped into. It turned out that all sorts of people doing all sorts
These may have been larger-than-life char-
acters playing with larger-than-life numbers, of things wanted to mount a camera to film themselves and their ac-
but at the end of the day, guys are guys—and tivities. The camera also caught on with scientists, soldiers, athletic
strangers quickly became familiar friends at a coaches, journalists, surgeons, and probably jihadists too. But it’s
poker table. the amateurs who count the most. Their output is astonishing—a video
After that uncomfortable moment the time capsule of our era. Woodman thought he’d be selling mainly to
game took on a life of its own. It was one of fellow surfers, but as Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram have shown,
those perfect nights where the conversation the interest of people in themselves is boundless. Woodman’s market
was lively, the action was fast and furious, niche turned out to be humanity. Now his company is going public.
and each one of C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 1 1 3 No wonder he says he’s stoked. —WILLIA M L ANGE WIESC HE

JU LY 2 014 PH OTOGRA PH BY JIMMY CHIN 83


84
photographed
Tolokonnikova and

in New York City.


Masha Alyokhina,
Pussy Riot’s Nadya

VAN IT Y
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Spotlight

JULY
2 014
ST YLE D BY HE ATHE R MA RY JACK SON ; H AI R P RODU C TS BY WE L L A PROF E S SIO NA L S; MA KE U P PROD UCTS BY MAC; HAIR BY PET ER G R AY; MAK EUP
BY F R AN C E L LE ; SE T D E SI G N BY ROB STR AUS S STU D IO; PROD UC E D ON L OC ATI ON BY R U TH LE VY; F OR DETAILS, G O TO VF.COM/ CR ED ITS
The RIOT ACT

‘H
ow do you pronounce this word? En-door?
Endure. Endure.” Masha Alyokhina repeated
the word several more times. She and Nadya
Tolokonnikova were getting ready to give their
first speech in English, to an audience of more than 2,000
women at New York’s Lincoln Center. Their biggest ap-
plause line was “Be Pussy Riot! Anyone can be Pussy Riot!”
Though often called a punk-rock group, Pussy Riot is actu-
ally a Russian protest-art collective started by non-musicians
a little less than three years ago. By the rules of the group
as devised by Tolokonnikova, members are always anony-
mous: they are Pussy Riot only when wearing their trademark
neon-colored balaclavas. Alyokhina and Tolokonnikova are
two exceptions: they were unmasked and arrested two and
a half years ago after performing what they called a “punk
prayer” inside Moscow’s biggest cathedral. The song ap-
pealed to the Virgin Mary to “chase Putin out.” Alyokhina
and Tolokonnikova were sentenced to two years in penal
colonies and served 22 months in Gulag-like conditions.
It is these conditions—the slave labor, the system of pun-
ishment and control that involves holding women outside
in the cold for hours and days and at times denying them
even the right to wash—that they have been working to
publicize ever since they got out of prison, at the end of
2013. As Pussy Riot, they have recorded a clip called “Putin
Will Teach You to Love the Motherland,” its centerpiece a
real-life scene, captured on video, in which Tolokonnikova,
Alyokhina, and several others are attacked and horse-
whipped by Cossacks in Sochi. (The Cossacks, a paramili-
tary force, have long been menacing Russian artists and
L.G.B.T. activists with the Kremlin’s explicit encouragement.)
As prisoners’-rights advocates, Alyokhina and Tolokon-
nikova have traveled to various Russian regions to docu-
ment human-rights abuses. In Nizhny Novgorod, they were
attacked by self-identified Russian-patriot thugs, who sent
Alyokhina to the hospital with a lacerated forehead and left
Tolokonnikova with acid in her eyes.
After all they’ve had to endure, it is their stubborn belief in
the power of information and their insistent hope for a bright-
er future for Russia that strike one most about Tolokonnikova
and Alyokhina. That, and the fact that when they are outside
of Russia they feel nothing so strongly as the need to get
back to work in their own country—where, they’ve realized,
they will now have to hire bodyguards. — M ASHA GESSEN

J ULY 2014 P H OTO GR APH BY MARK SELIGER www.vanityfair.com VA N IT Y FAI R 85


BODY OF WORK
Jef Koons in the gym of
his studio, in New York
City’s Chelsea neighborhood.
He works out every
day around noon, then eats
a lean lunch.

Jeff Koon Getting a massive retrospective this month


at the Whitney, preparing to install his balloon sculptures at
the Louvre, lecturing at the Frick—has Jeff Koons, taboo-
busting rebel, become a pillar of the art establishment? With a
look back at the simultaneous implosion of Koons’s
career and personal life in the 1990s, INGRID SISCHY examines
the creative risks that power his record-
breaking prices and pop-culture supremacy

86 VA N I T Y FA
A II RR P HOTOGR A P HS BY ANNIE LEIBOVITZ JU N E 2014
S E T D E S IG N BY M ARY HOWA R D STU DI O;
F OR D E TAI LS , G O TO VF. COM/ C R E D ITS

J ULY
2014
www.vanityfair.com
s Is Back!

VA N IT Y
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87
I f the walls at Manhattan’s Frick Collection
could talk, they would have been uttering tiny gasps of shock and
awe this spring at a lecture given by Jef Koons for a small, mostly
professional-art-world crowd. Koons was sharing his ruminations on
the Renaissance and Baroque bronzes from the Hill Collection then
on view in the galleries, and it was one of the artist’s classic perfor-
mances: no opportunity was missed to point out breasts, testicles, and
phalluses, both in the bronzes and in his own work. This way of seeing
and talking about art is his specialty, and the crowd ate it up, many of
them getting the droll underlying humor of the situation as a deadpan
Koons busted taboos in snootsville. But not everyone was happy about
it. The very idea of Koons’s being invited to speak at this old-world in-
exhibition spaces save the ffth foor, which holds selections from the
permanent collection—it will be the biggest show devoted to a single
artist that the Whitney has ever done. Furthermore, it will be the
last show, for now at least, that the Whitney will put on in its cur-
rent home—Marcel Breuer’s bold, unconventional, gray granite-and-
concrete modernist structure at 75th Street and Madison Avenue.
After the Koons exhibition, the museum will reopen downtown, in
spring 2015, in a much larger space designed by Renzo Piano, smack
at the southern end of the High Line, in the Meatpacking District.
The museum, which can’t aford to erect a new building and keep
the old one operating at full throttle, has leased the Breuer building
for eight years, with an option to extend, to the Metropolitan Mu-
seum of Art, which has never had a sympathetic exhibition space for
its collection of 20th- and 21st-century works. Now it does.
First, though, the prospect of the Koons show is revving things
up in the art world. “Jef is the Warhol of his time,” proclaims
Adam Weinberg, the Whitney’s director. The exhibition’s organizer,
Rothkopf, adds, “We didn’t want to leave the building looking back-
wards and being nostalgic, but we wanted something very bold that
was new for the Whitney and Jef and New York.”
It is a banner year for Koons in general. Split-Rocker, 2000, the art-
stitution apparently put someone’s nose out of joint enough that he or ist’s second live-fower sculpture, will be shown in New York for the frst
she had sent the museum postcards featuring drawings of poop. time, at Rockefeller Center, under the auspices of the Gagosian Gallery
The Frick isn’t the only important institution to embrace Koons. and the Public Art Fund, to coincide with the Whitney show. With its
The Whitney Museum plans a retrospective, curated by Scott Roth- references to Picasso’s Cubism, to my eyes it is even more multi-layered
kopf, opening to the public on June 27. It will be historic in many and pleasurable than Koons’s other mega-hit Puppy—which also has its
ways. Spreading out just over 27,000 square feet—in all the museum’s own soil and internal irrigation system to take care of the fowers. Mean-
88 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
S TUDIO SYS TEM
The painting section of Koons’s studio, where assistants
work on canvases for his “Antiquity” series. Paintings are stippled
in sections and then hand-painted. To achieve his vision, Koons
employs 128 people at his studio: 64 in the painting department, 44 in
the sculpture department, 10 in the digital department, and 10 in
administration. That’s to say nothing of the specialists, fabricators,
and institutions he consults, including most recently M.I.T.’s
Center for Bits and Atoms, led by Neil Gershenfeld.
while, at the Louvre, in January 2015, Koons will install a selection of
his large-scale balloon sculptures, including Balloon Rabbit, Balloon
Swan, and Balloon Monkey, in the 19th-century galleries. 2009–11; $33.8 million for the stainless-steel Jim Beam–J.B. Turner

T
Train, 1986; $58.4 million for Balloon Dog (Orange), 1994–2000, the
he last time I wrote about Koons for this magazine, highest price ever paid for a work by a living artist.
in 2001, he was in a very diferent place, having just How Koons managed to go from obscurity to white-hot to near
gone to hell and back, not only in the efort to pull ruin and then back again to the pinnacle is a classic American tale
of a fercely ambitious project, “Celebration,” which of self-invention, ingenuity, and unbreakable will, not to mention a
he had begun in 1993, but in his personal life as well. genius for salesmanship and spin.
He’d basically lost everything except his faith in his The artist comes by his talent for salesmanship honestly. When
art. At the time, I thought how unrufed Koons was, how most peo- I visited him this spring at his farm, in south-central Pennsylvania
ple would have been hysterical in his situation. But as Gary McCraw, (which had once been owned by his maternal grandparents, Nell
Koons’s loyal right-hand man, says, “Jef does not like being stuck— and Ralph Sitler, and which he bought back in 2005, as a country
he fgures out what needs to change.” Koons’s cool paid of. He ex- place for his family), Koons took me to the cemetery in nearby East
tricated himself from a number of business relationships that clearly Prospect, where his mother’s side of the family is buried. Parked
weren’t working and returned to his original home at the Sonnabend in front of a row of headstones with the name “Sitler” carved into
Gallery. He took a detour from the struggle to complete his “Cel- them, Koons read the frst names and told me what each of his male
ebration” sculptures and paintings, and created several new series, relatives had done. Most were merchants. His uncle Carl Sitler had a
including a couple of painting shows and animal-shaped refecting cigar business; his uncle Roy Sitler owned the general store; and on
wall reliefs (“Easyfun” and “Easyfun-Ethereal”). Skip ahead a dozen it went. The artist’s father, Henry Koons, was an interior decorator
or so years, to today, and the change in Koons’s circumstances is whose business catered to the most afuent citizens of York, which
almost beyond belief. He is a superstar for a consortium of three back then was thriving as a small industrial hub.
powerful galleries—Gagosian, David Zwirner, and Sonnabend—each The young Koons ft right in. In addition to helping his dad—even
of which works with him independently, and, astonishing as it may making paintings that would end up in his furniture store—he loved
sound, his earlier high prices now sound like fat-out bargains. A few selling ribbons and bows and gift wrap door-to-door and also Cokes
examples of his auction sales prices, totaling $177 million over the at the local golf course. “Everyone else would sell Kool-Aid, but I
past year: $28.2 million for the mirror-polished stainless-steel Popeye, would sell Coca-Cola in a really nice jug,” Koons recalls. “I would
JU LY 2 014 www.vanityfair.com VA NIT Y FAIR 89
VEILED REFERENCE
Koons alongside
an unfnished sculpture,
Gazing Ball (Farnese
Hercules), 2013.

“HE HAS TO CONVINCE


90 VAN IT Y FA IR JULY 2 014
lay out a towel and stack up all my cups, and really try to make it a had a double whammy of an outsider perspective: the American son
nice, hygienic experience.” (The artist has a sensitivity to hygiene and of Slovak immigrants, he was gay at a time when it was a very diferent
odors that is almost comical.) proposition from what it is today. Koons, on the other hand, grew up in
Koons’s early art heroes were those who had personal meaning the embrace of community, with a secure sense of belonging. Warhol
to him, such as Salvador Dalí, whose work he knew from a book liked to have young folks around him at the Factory, but he didn’t want
his parents had given him, his frst art book. While at art school in to actually spawn any. Koons has enough kids of his own (eight) to start
Baltimore, Koons tracked down Dalí at the St. Regis hotel, in New a touring company of The Sound of Music. Warhol was almost Zen in
York, and the next thing you know they had a memorable date—the his grasp of the light touch in making his artworks and getting them
boy who looked like he had popped of the back of a cereal box (he out into the world. Koons goes through a ring of fre for each work, so
still does) and the man who defned Euro-decadence. The subsequent much so that his fnished output is actually quite slim. “We average 6.75
nods in his work to Dalí’s famous mustache are fun to pick out. paintings and 15 to 20 sculptures a year,” he told me. (He is always very
Similarly, Koons was so knocked out by a show of Jim Nutt’s exact.) Warhol was practically monosyllabic with art critics, dealers, and
paintings at the Whitney in 1974 that he decided to spend his senior collectors. Koons is the opposite.
year at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, in the city where Actually, if there is anyone the artist seems to be inspired by at this
Nutt belonged to a loosely connected collective of artists known as point in his life, it is Picasso, whom Koons refers to a lot. Koons, at
the Chicago Imagists. There, Koons ended up working as a studio 59, has already begun a strict exercise-and-diet regimen so that he will
assistant for one of the key Imagists, Ed Paschke, whose nightmare have a shot at working undiminished into his 80s, as Picasso did. He
palette and netherworld iconography still pack a punch. Paschke hits his upstairs gym every day at around noon when he is in the stu-
recalled how Koons was such a dedicated assistant that his hands dio, then eats a lean lunch. For the rest of the afternoon he dips into
would bleed from trying to stretch the canvases to be perfectly taut. an assortment of nuts, cereals, fresh vegetables, and Zone bars. Once
Once he made it to New York, Koons landed the perfect, for in a while he’ll apologize for an odor if he’s eating broccoli.
him, position at the Museum of Modern Art, manning the mem- What Warhol and Koons do have in common, though, is an
bership desk. I was working at MoMA back then, too, on a Nation- uncanny ability to nail an image or an object so that it catches the
al Endowment for the Arts fellowship in photography, and I often Zeitgeist. The frst time Koons landed on such an idea was in 1979,
spied him in the lobby in his eye-catching outfts and attention- around the time he left MoMA. He had been experimenting with
getting accessories, such as paper bibs, double ties, and store-bought kitchen appliances, such as toasters, refrigerators, and deep fryers,
infatable fowers around his neck. These shenanigans made for attaching them to fuorescent-light tubes. These gave way to the
some hilarious anecdotes, such as when the museum’s then direc- artist’s frst fully realized series, “The New,” which included never
tor, Richard Oldenburg, politely asked Koons to pull a Houdini used vacuum cleaners and rug shampooers, often presented in clear
and disappear till the coast was clear. Oldenburg was acting at the Plexiglas vitrines and illuminated by fuorescent lights. “I thought of
behest of William Rubin, the humorless head of the painting-and- them as eternal-virgin-type situations,” says Koons.
sculpture department, who was bringing a delegation from Russia, By then he was selling mutual funds to get by. The artworks got
as Koons remembers it; Rubin was hoping they would help fund some buzz in the downtown art community, and for a minute Koons
an exhibition or two, and he worried that Koons’s antics might be was taken on by the dealer of the moment, Mary Boone. As he whis-
a turnof. (I recounted this story to the architect Annabelle Selldorf, pered to trusted fellow artists, he was excited to become a “Booney,”
who has worked with Koons, and she observed, laughing, that those but it didn’t work out in the end. Another dealer returned a vacuum-
collectors are now the ones buying his work.) cleaner piece. Broke and heartbroken, Koons called a time-out and
spent six months or so with his parents, who had moved to Florida,

K
Striving Artist where he saved money from a job as a political canvasser.

W
oons’s job at MoMA gave him the opportunity
to immerse himself in the history of modernism, hat came next, upon his return to New York,
in particular the ideas of Marcel Duchamp, who was the game changer: his “Equilibrium” se-
changed art history by showing how everyday ob- ries. He was working once again in the high-
jects, or “readymades,” could be elevated into the pressure world of fnance, this time trading
realm of art, depending on context. Duchamp’s commodities, but by night he was cooking
theories were a revelation to Koons. While at MoMA he started to fool up what would turn out to be his frst coup.
around with a bunch of cheap infatables, blowups of fowers and bun- Involving a dark, Nietzschean worldview, it was almost the opposite of
nies, rifng on Duchamp’s idea of readymades and propping them the cheerful Koonsian iconography people have grown accustomed
against mirrors in his apartment. “The sexual power of the imagery to. Take two works from 1985: a cast-bronze scuba apparatus, which he
was so intoxicating to me visually that I had to have a drink,” he re- called Aqualung, and a bronze Lifeboat. It’s immediately obvious they
members. “I went to Slugger Ann’s, Jackie Curtis’s grandmother’s bar.” aren’t going to save anyone. Instead they’ll take you down.
The reference to Curtis ties Koons to the last true avant-garde—a The “Equilibrium” works were exhibited in 1985 in Koons’s frst
pedigree the artist likes. Curtis, who refused to be called a drag queen, solo show, at International with Monument, a short-lived, artist-run
was a pioneer of the L.G.B.T. movement and, like Candy Darling, was gallery in the East Village. Dakis Joannou, a Greek collector, who
made famous by Warhol. Koons clearly relishes the fact that he and would become an important champion of the artist’s, was stunned
Warhol are often discussed in the same breath these days, but in fact, when he saw the show. “I was so intrigued with the basketball piece,
as artists and personalities, they couldn’t be more diferent. Warhol One Ball Total Equilibrium Tank,” he remembers. “I wanted to buy

EXTREMELY WEALTHY PEOPLE . . . TO BUY INTO THE DREAM.”


JU LY 2 014 www.vanityfair.com VAN IT Y FAI R 91
“A FRIEND TOLD ME, ‘JEFF . . .

FERTILE MIND
Koons and his wife,
J UST IN E KOO NS ’ S MA K E UP BY E L A IN E MA DE L ON;

Justine, with
their children at their
Pennsylvania
F OR D E TAI LS , G O TO VF. COM/ C R E D ITS

farmhouse, which once


belonged to his
grandparents. When
discussing his art
and his life, a favorite
word of Koons’s is
“biology.”

92 VAN IT Y FA IR
PULL YOURSELF TOGETHER AND GET ON WITH YOUR LIFE.’ ”

J ULY 2014 www.vanityfair.com VA N IT Y FAI R 93


that piece.” The now iconic works of single or multiple basketballs For a while their life imitated art, and vice versa. The couple fell
in fshtanks had taken countless experiments and many phone calls in love and, after a wedding in Budapest and about a year in Mu-
to scientists, including Nobel Prize winner Dr. Richard P. Feynman, nich, where Koons oversaw production of his “Made in Heaven”
who encouraged Koons to work out the right proportion of distilled project, they came back to New York. “My dad said that he thought
and saline water so that the basketballs would neither rise nor sink. it was crazy, but he was very accepting,” recalls Koons. Dad wasn’t
Joannou asked to meet the artist. “He was serious,” says Joannou. the only one who thought it was loony.
“He had depth. He had vision. He had an enormous world of his Not surprisingly, the “Made in Heaven” exhibition was extremely
own that he had not even started exploring yet.” (Joannou scooped popular with a curious public and hungry media, but it was basically
up the work for $2,700.) a bomb with the art establishment, many of whose members thought
The Whitney exhibition will have prime examples from the Koons that Koons had committed career suicide. Selldorf remembers how
hit parade, from his earliest works to his most recent, including shocking the work seemed at the time. “One time I was all alone
stainless-steel objects from both the “Luxury and Degradation” series in the studio and three of the gigantic ‘penetration’ paintings were
(a Travel Bar, the Jim Beam–J.B. Turner Train, etc.) and the “Statuary” there,” she says. “I was staring at these paintings thinking, Holy
series, which featured Koons’s most critically admired work, Rabbit, Mother of God!” It was no picnic to sell the work, which had been
1986. This mirror-polished, enigmatic, silver stainless-steel bunny is the expensive to produce, and it didn’t help that the recession of the early
piece that won over previously unconvinced curators, art historians, and 90s had people in a panic. Sonnabend was having trouble keeping up
critics, who saw it as a dazzling contemporary update of a broad range with Koons’s needs, and something which had previously seemed un-
of iconography, from Playboy bunnies to Brancusi’s soaring forms. imaginable happened: Koons and Sonnabend parted ways. Antonio
But Koons aspires to appeal not just to the cognoscenti. Nowhere Homem, who ran the gallery with Ileana Sonnabend for some 40
was this more obvious than in his “Banality” series, created mostly in years until Sonnabend’s death and who now owns it, remembers, “It
traditional porcelain and wood in workshops in Italy and Germany was a very difcult moment. Even though Ileana and [her husband]
in the late 80s. The works are a virtual populist paradise that runs Michael had a huge collection, they always lived from one day
the gamut from St. John the Baptist to an all-gold-and-white Michael to the other᠁ The great fnancial problem for us was to fabricate
Jackson, cradling his pet monkey. The springboard for the work was all the ‘Made in Heaven’ pieces beforehand, which were very expen-
found common objects and popular souvenirs, to which Koons then sive to produce. Jef wanted all of the editions to be made right from
brought his art wand. Plenty of people checked out these artworks at the beginning. I explained to him that we were unable to continue. He
the Sonnabend Gallery, where the artist had fnally found a home. felt that this was a betrayal and that we didn’t believe in him, and
Soon there would be even more signs that he might one day reach his therefore didn’t want to fnance his work. He took it very badly. We
goal, which he once described rather immodestly as wanting to create had no wish to betray him. It was very sad for all of us.”

T
the art equivalent of what the Beatles had done.
oday this work is fnally getting its due. Happily, Koons

K
Heaven Couldn’t Wait couldn’t destroy as much of it as he tried to—because
oons always captures the Zeitgeist, for better or it was so well constructed. (The Whitney will include
for worse, so there is a perfect logic to the “Made some of it—with the usual not-for-minors warning.)
in Heaven” series, which he exhibited at Son- “‘Made in Heaven’ is just mind-blowing,” says
nabend in the fall of 1991, a period in which sex Dan Colen, one of the most talented artists of the
went from under the counter to center stage be- generation that came after Koons. “It was a border-less, boundary-
cause of aids. What Koons did was the hetero- less body of work. There was no separation between the artist’s life
sexual equivalent of Robert Mapplethorpe’s taboo-busting images of and his work. What he did is beyond Duchamp, beyond Warhol, be-
men having sex together—in fact, Koons’s paintings and sculptures, yond the readymade.” Some might say it was also beyond reason and
created out of wood, marble, glass, and canvases photomechani- beyond the market, but this is not a guy who compromises his art,
cally printed with oil inks, include some of the most graphic sexual ever. Homem sums it up: “Jef would throw me out of the window for
imagery ever produced in Western art that went public. It’s impos- his art, but he would throw himself out the window with me, as well,
sible to imagine this work without its leading lady, Ilona Staller, bet- without a second thought. He is the most romantic artist I ever met.”
ter known as La Cicciolina (translated as the “little dumpling”), an By now the head-spinning details of the Koons-Staller afair are
only-in-Italy personage, whom Koons met after he saw her picture art-world legend. In a nutshell, Staller wanted to keep her X-rated
in a magazine as a model. Almost immediately they got up close porn-star job, and Koons wanted her to stick to their marriage vows.
and personal. The Hungarian-born Staller—a former porn star/ To make matters more complicated, the couple had a son, Ludwig,
erotic-video icon/politician—has so far been Koons’s only human in October 1992. After Maria Callas–worthy drama, Staller blindsided
readymade, and, being human, she had issues. Koons by outsmarting one of the bodyguards whom Koons had hired
The paintings Koons created of the two of them feature penetra- to watch her, and she left for Rome with Ludwig. Koons spent more
tion, both anal and vaginal, and liberal amounts of semen. Discuss- than a decade and millions of dollars trying to get his son back, to no
ing one of the most no-holes-barred pictures, Koons says, “What I avail. He would fy to Rome to see Ludwig, but once he was there the
really like about it are the pimples on Ilona’s ass. The confdence to visits would usually fall through. He was basically shut out of his son’s
reveal one’s ass like that. That’s like my reference to Courbet’s The life. So he poured his emotions into his “Celebration” series, begun
Origin of the World.” And he’s not kidding. in 1993, as a way to tell his son just how much his father was miss-

“WHAT KOONS DID IS BEYOND


94 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
Spotlight
ing him. A massive sculpture of a wide-eyed Cat on a Clothesline. A
painting of Building Blocks. A sculpture of a giant stainless-steel gold
A PERFORMANCE
Hanging Heart suspended by magenta stainless-steel ribbons. A monu-
mental stainless-steel Balloon Dog, or modern-day Trojan horse. The
with LEGS
simplicity of these works,
and others like them, belies Diane Kruger,
the complexity of executing photographed
them according to Koons’s in the Upper
Las Virgenes
high expectations and un- Canyon Open
compromising standards. Space Preserve,
The production costs of the in Calabasas,
art and the legal costs of try- California.
ing to bring back Ludwig KRUGER WEARS
A SWEATER BY
nearly bankrupted the artist. MICHAEL KORS; BRIEF
BY ERES; SHOES
Eventually Koons started BY TOD’S; EARRINGS
to rebuild his life. “A friend AND RING BY
HARRY WINSTON;
told me, ‘Jeff, look, it’s BRACELET BY
GUCCI.
over,’ ” he recalls. “ ‘You did
everything you can. Stop
this, and pull yourself to-
gether and get on with your
life.’ I lost everything.” He
never gave up on Ludwig,
who is now 21, and to try to
M c A DA MS ; M A NI CU RE BY A SHL I E J O HN SO N; SE T DE S IGN BY A LI GA L L AGHE R; P ROD U CE D ON L O CAT ION BY PO RTFO LI O O NE ; FO R DE TAI LS, GO TO VF.CO M/C RE DI TS
ST Y LE D BY DE B O RA H A F SHA N I ; H A IR P RODU CTS BY L ’O R ÉA L PA R IS ; M A KE UP P ROD U CTS AND N AIL ENAMEL BY CHANE L; HAI R BY MARA RO SZAK ; MAKE UP BY KAYLE E N

help other children, he got

I
involved with the Interna-
tional Centre for Missing &
Exploited Children, and to-
gether they later formed the
Koons Family Institute on International Law & Policy. At a certain n The Better Angels, a film about the very young Abe
point Koons was re-united with his daughter Shannon, who’d been Lincoln, Diane Kruger plays the part of Sarah Lincoln,
born when Koons was in college and put up for adoption; they now the 16th president’s stepmother, a frontierswoman
have a close relationship. In 2002 he married Justine Wheeler, an art- whose homespun good sense is said to have been
ist and former assistant in his studio. Today pictures of their own kids formative in his pre-log-splitting days. It was a tough
along with those of Ludwig and Shannon dot the Koons households. role, says Kruger, with a lot of “improvisation, hanging out in the

A
woods, and scenes playing against amateur-actor children who
t the height of his crisis Koons’s funding was de- did not know what the film is about.” The German-born actress
pleted, and over time he had to let go of more than (Diane Heidkrüger, originally) was not the obvious choice for
70 assistants. Furthermore, in 1999, the I.R.S. fled such a role. “Actually, it’s one of the reasons they cast me,” she
a $3 million tax lien. On many days Koons, his says. “Americans way back then were early settlers with more
studio manager McCraw, and Wheeler, who was European looks.” Euro or otherwise, Kruger says that her looks
then becoming closer to the artist, had the studio to (she’s a former runway model) have been an issue in her career.
themselves. Their strategy for saving “Celebration” ultimately worked. A New York Times review in the wake of her portrayal of Helen
“One big problem at the beginning was that Jef would start making a in the 2004 Brad Pitt epic Troy noted that she “looks too beau-
work without really having a clear idea of how he could complete it,” tiful to play a role of any substance.” After that, Kruger took on
explains Homem. “Problems would occur in which everything would a diverse series of higher-brow, differently accented roles (nota-

{
stop. Although his pieces still take years bly the Dietrich-esque Bridget von Hammersmark in Inglourious
to make, fortunately there is less of that.” @vf.com Basterds; a Bosnian immigrant in Unknown, opposite Liam Nee-
Eventually, thanks to dogged belief, a new WATCH BE H IN D - son; and Marie Antoinette in Farewell, My Queen). Now, with her
THE -S CENES VID E O
model of working (not to mention forces of FROM THE KOO N S credentials unquestioned and her versatility almost unmatched—
nature like Gagosian and Sonnabend), and S TUD IO. she is perhaps the only Hollywood star who loops her own parts
GO TO VF.CO M/
a lot of problem solving, the “Celebration” JULY2014.
in French, German, and English—Kruger has added a steely TV
works slowly began to see the light of day. detective to her repertoire, as Sonya Cross, an icy cop with As-
A fundamental problem with the “Celebration” series was perger’s syndrome, in the FX series The Bridge, returning next
that the fabricating processes and the technology had not month for a second season. Kruger says the heroine she plays
caught up with Koons’s visions. These C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 1 1 5 gives her plenty of dramatic challenges, but just when she was
getting used to working with auteurs, such as Tarantino, she had
to adjust to “the pace of episodic TV,” she says. “I enjoy it,” she
adds. “It’s like a long movie. It has its advantages, but the change
DUCHAMP, BEYOND WARHOL.” of director each week is still something I have to get used to. It
has not been an easy adjustment for me.” — M AT T T Y R N AU E R
JU LY 2 014 PH OTOGRA PH BY NORMAN JEAN ROY 95
Spotlight

VALLI GUYS

R
ock ’n’ roll was never really Clint Eastwood’s jam. “I
went through the 50s and 60s,” the 84-year-old Oscar-
winning director says, “but I never really dug it. I was
always a rhythm-and-blues guy. I was a jazz freak. But it
seemed like the Four Seasons’ songs were a cut above.”
Now Eastwood is giving Jersey Boys, the Tony-winning musical
based on the 1960s vocal group that vaulted to stardom on Frankie
Valli’s stratospheric falsettos, the Hollywood treatment. Featuring many
of the Four Seasons’ chart toppers—“Sherry,” “Big Girls Don’t Cry,”
96 VAN IT Y FA IR www.vanityfair.com JULY 2 014
PRO DU C E D ON LOC ATI ON BY P ORT FOL IO ON E ; F OR D E TA IL S, G O TO V F. COM/ C R E D ITS
COSTUME S DE S IG N E D BY D E BOR A H HOPP E R; HA IR BY TE R RY BA L IE L A N D C A ROL A .
O’ CONN E L L; MAK E U P BY MICHE LL E V IT TON E -M c N E IL ; S E T DE S I GN BY PE TE R K LE IN ;

Erich Bergen,
Clint Eastwood, John
Lloyd Young, Vincent
Piazza, and Michael
Lomenda, photographed
on the back lot at
Warner Bros. Studio, in
Burbank, California.

“Walk Like a Man,” “December, 1963 (Oh, What a Night)”—the band telling his version of events. John Lloyd Young, who originated
show opened on Broadway in 2005 and is still running Stateside and the role of Valli on Broadway, plays him again in the film. Michael
in London’s West End, while various productions tour the globe. (On Lomenda and Erich Bergen, touring-company vets, portray original
Broadway alone, the show has made nearly $500 million in revenue.) members Nick Massi and Bob Gaudio (the group’s principal song-
Eastwood hadn’t yet seen the play when he was approached writer), and Boardwalk Empire alum Vincent Piazza is Tommy De-
to direct the movie version. “The fact that I didn’t know too much Vito, the streetwise group founder. (Christopher Walken appears as
about it made me want to delve into it,” he says. The film, out June a Jersey mobster.)
20, adheres to the structure of the stage show; it is divided into four “It’s just a lot of good songs,” Eastwood says. “You go home
segments representing the four seasons, with each member of the humming a different one every night.” — KRISTA SMITH

J ULY 2014 P H OTO GR APH BY ANNIE LEIBOVITZ VA N IT Y FAI R 97


Clare, in Lo

MR. AND MRS.


U.S.A.
Clare and Henry
Luce in 1942, the
year she was elected
to the House
of Representatives.
Opposite, Clare at
their home in
Phoenix in 1959,
the year she
resigned the post
of ambassador
to Brazil.

98 VANI T Y FA IR JULY 2 014


ve and War What Clare Boothe Luce wanted,
Clare Boothe Luce got: a man, a
seat in Congress, an ambassadorship.
A literary star in her own right,
she had become half of America’s
premier power couple when the
Time-empire founder Henry Luce left
his wife to marry her in 1935.
But, reveals SYLVIA JUKES MORRIS,
in an excerpt from volume two
of her biography, the woman who
jousted with presidents and
experimented with LSD wasn’t
prepared, in 1959, to find herself
the one betrayed
IM AGE S , D I GI TA L CO LOR IZ ATIO N BY LOR N A C L A RK ; R IG HT, F ROM CORB IS
PHOTOG R AP HS : LE F T, BY G E ORG E KA RG E R / TI ME & LI FE PIC TUR E S/ G E TT Y

www.vanityfair.com VA NIT Y FAI R 99


WA
liaisons with at least two generals. The dev- need someone of “tremendous capacity” for
astating death of her only child, Ann, in an such a demanding job.
auto accident at age 19, drove Clare to con- “There is no job so tough you couldn’t do
vert to Roman Catholicism (with the help of it,” Ike said.
Reverend Fulton J. Sheen) and later to experi- While she digested this compliment, he re-
ment with psychedelic drugs. As a formidable marked that she was “certainly smarter and
television campaigner, she helped Dwight D. abler” than Frances Perkins, the first woman
Eisenhower win a landslide victory over Ad- to hold any Cabinet post. Clare was even
lai E. Stevenson in the presidential election of more fattered but, knowing from congressio-
1952. Shortly afterward, a summons came for nal experience that she had no propensity for
Clare to meet the president-elect at his transi- dealing with unions, said she felt unqualified.
tion headquarters in New York’s Commodore Eisenhower asked if there was another
Hotel, a meeting she carefully recorded. job she would prefer. Clare suggested ten-
hen Clare Boothe tatively that she could be a successor to El-
married Henry “Harry” Luce, the 37-year-old Presidential Favor eanor Roosevelt as chairman of the United
founder of Time and Fortune, she was 32 t the hotel, she found a war- Nations Commission on Human Rights. He
and already well known, as a former manag- ren of offices swarming with looked surprised and said that would not be
ing editor of Vanity Fair. Born illegitimate job seekers. Then Eisen- “much of a thing.” In any case, the post
to poor parents, Clare was a pretty enough hower emerged and strode was filled.
child actress to understudy Mary Pickford toward her, smiling broadly Edging closer to candor, Clare said she
on Broadway and to act in a silent movie. In with outstretched hands. He “fit nowhere except into the field of foreign
her teens she had also briefy campaigned for ushered her into his suite and closed the door. afairs.” Before Ike could reply, she added,
equal rights with the National Woman’s Par- She was struck, as often before, by the “sheer “And with London gone to Aldrich—”
ty. Then she allowed her socially ambitious vitality of the man, and his essential simplic- “Who told you that?” he snapped.
mother to steer her into a loveless marriage ity and goodness … with that warmth and “Everyone in New York knows, because
to the Fifth Avenue millionaire George Bro- cheerful heartedness and self-possession that the Aldriches have leaked it.”
kaw, who was more than twice her age. Six inspire love and confidence in everyone.” He laughed and said Winthrop Aldrich
years later, in 1929, now a well-of divorcée Their conversation began with pleasant- was “the brainiest man with the least wis-
with a fve-year-old daughter, Clare launched ries about her infuential husband’s role in dom” he had ever encountered. It was true,
a lifelong series of male conquests, starting the campaign. Eisenhower then changed the however, that the former banker had been
with the Wall Street speculator Bernard Ba- subject, saying he would like to appoint a appointed to the Court of St. James’s.
ruch. Condé Nast, who was infatuated with Catholic as his secretary of labor. What did Continuing to press, Eisenhower asked,
her, employed her at Vogue and later Vanity she think about that? Clare said he would “What would you like best?”
Fair. An early writing assignment at the lat- Clare knew there was only one answer.
ter was a 1930 “Hall of Fame” profle Mysteriously and often over the years, Italy
of Luce, who in 1935 left his wife and had summoned her, first when she had
two sons for her. The following year, been a correspondent for Life in 1940, then
Clare became even more celebrated as twice more, when she visited American and
the writer of the all-female Broadway British troops in 1944 and 1945, and had
play The Women. She would eventually repeatedly met Pope Pius XII. Since the

PH OTO GRA P H © B E TT MA N N/ CO R BI S , DI GI TA L CO L OR I ZAT I ON BY LO RNA C L ARK


write eight plays, three books, and several end of the war, she and Harry had been as
movie scripts. For almost three decades, concerned over the threat of Communist
the Luces were indisputably America’s expansion in Italy as in China. They had
foremost power couple. Clare covered the helped orchestrate the successful fund-
early days of World War II in the Far raising visit to the United States of Alcide
East and Europe as a correspondent for De Gasperi, Italy’s postwar architect of
Life, her husband’s picture magazine, then Christian capitalist democracy. He was
served in Congress as a two-term Repub- still in power and deeply grateful to them.
lican representative from Connecticut. As Eisenhower was waiting to hear what re-
the only female member of the House Mili- ward she wanted, so Clare took the plunge.
tary Affairs Committee, she twice toured “Naturally, what I can’t get. Rome.”
the Italian and French battlefronts and had “Who told you you can’t get it and
why?”
Adapted from Price of Fame: The Honorable
Clare Boothe Luce, by Sylvia Jukes Morris, “There are so many others to whom
to be published this month by Random House; you are obligated.”
© 2014 by the author. At this point, she cast aside false mod-

“THERE IS NO JOB
SO TOUGH YOU COULDN’T DO IT,” IKE SAID.
100 VAN IT Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
ON THE TOWN
The Luces at a
Broadway opening
in 1935, the
year they married.
Opposite, Clare
by Vanity Fair
artist Miguel
Covarrubias. 101
2

ALF RED EISEN STAEDT /T IME & LIF E PI CTU RES/ G ETT Y IMAG ES (5 ) , A NDRÉ KÉRTÉSZ/
COND É N AST ARCHIVE (4 ), F ROM T HE LOND ON EVENI NG STA N DA RD/SO L O
SY N DICAT ION /Z UMA PR ESS (2), © UPPA/ PHOTOSH OT (7 ), © USIS-DITE/
1

PHOTOG R APHS F ROM A .P. IMAG ES (6 ), © BETT MA NN / COR BI S ( 3 ) , BY

LEEMAG E (1); D IG ITAL COLO RIZ ATI ON BY LOR NA CL A R K (4, 6)


4

LIFE ON TOP
(1) General
Dwight Eisenhower
and Clare, 1944.
(2) Lady Jeanne
Campbell, Henry’s other
love, in London, 1963.
(3) Clare at the house
in Phoenix,
1959. (4) Sugar Hill,
the Luces’ house in
Ridgefield, Connecticut.
(5) Henry and Clare
playing croquet, 1936.
(6) Clare with
Henry and Greek
shipping magnate
Stavros Niarchos, 1956.
(7) Clare, with
Henry, arrives as
ambassador to
Italy on the Andrea
Doria, 1953.

102 VA N I T Y FAIR 6 JULY 2014


3

www.vanityfair.com
www.vanityfair.com VV A
ANN II TT Y F A I R 1
003
0
esty and cited three benefits he might gain
in choosing her. First, he would gratify the
millions of Catholics who had voted for him;
second, her appointment would save him from
having to send another of her faith to the Vat-
ican; and, third, every female in the electorate
“would be pleased that a woman had finally
got a number one diplomatic post.” Left un-
spoken was her dismay at the growing pres-
ence of Communists in Italy’s government
and industries.

E
isenhower hedged. He won-
dered if she might have a
second choice, such as Mexi-
co. “You could do a splendid
job for me there.” Clare said
lamely that it might be an
easier commute. Still probing, Ike asked how
her husband would feel about her going to
Italy. She admitted that they had discussed
it, and Harry liked the idea. Time Inc. had
a bureau in the Eternal City, so he could
visit her and run his business from there.
She did not have to remind Eisenhower that
with their combined wealth they had ample
means to finance the entertaining expected
in a prime ambassadorial spot.
He brought the discussion to an end
without committing himself, but gave her a
caution that sounded like encouragement.
“Please don’t discuss this with Foster.” John
Foster Dulles, as Clare knew, was his choice
as secretary of state, and, as a staunch Pres-
byterian, was unlikely to favor a Catholic
woman in the Rome embassy.
“Let me wangle it, and be
patient,” Ike said. FRIEND OF
As if on cue, Dulles entered.
PRESIDENTS
Clare in the Luces’
After a brief chat, she left Fifth Avenue
with the impression that if he apartment, 1964.
agreed to have her in his diplo- Inset, a 1942 letter
from Clare to
naval ensign
John F. Kennedy.

JULY 2 014
L ARGE PHOTOG R AP H BY N E A L BOE N ZI /T HE N EW YO R K TIM ES/
R E D UX ; I N SET F ROM THE JOHN F. KENNEDY PERSONAL PAPERS/
JOHN F. KENNEDY PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM

HARRY

www.vanityfair.com
GRANDDAUGHTER OF LORD BEAVERBROOK.
CONFESSED
HE HAD BEEN SLEEPING WITH JEANNE CAMPBELL,

VA NIT Y FAI R
105
HARRY CAME HOME TO FIND THAT CLARE HAD

TAKENOFAN OVERDOSE
SODIUM AMYTAL.
matic corps she would get her heart’s desire. jority, Clare felt compelled to resign the post. guru Swami Prabhavananda, and after World
In a letter that night, Clare shared every Far from being cast down, she embarked at War II had emerged as something of a guru
detail with Harry, who was on a business age 56 on an exhilarating new experience. himself, founding the monastery-like Trabuco
trip to Asia. Seeking to assuage whatever College of Prayer, in the Santa Ana Mountains.

A
disappointment he might feel at not having Sex, Lies, and Hallucinogens His interest in liberating “the inner man”
been favored himself, she told him that she t 11:25 a.m. on May 16, 1959, had led him in 1954 to experiment with Hux-
disliked the prospect of their having to pur- at Sugar Hill, the Luces’ 20- ley in taking mescaline, a psychedelic deriva-
sue separate careers on diferent sides of the room, Georgian-style house tive of cactus plants. The following year he had
Atlantic. “The awful apartness … fills me in Ridgefield, Connecticut, moved on to experiment with LSD. Not being
with panic, vertigo, anguish beyond reason Clare took 100 micrograms an accredited scientist or physician, Heard
when I contemplate it.” They must thrash it of lysergic acid diethylam- had to obtain his supplies from a friend, Dr.
out as soon as he returned—the implication ide. Two friends from California, the writer- Sidney Cohen, chief of psychosomatic medi-
being that she hoped Harry would reassure philosopher Gerald Heard and his musician cine at the Veterans Administration Hospital
her that their marriage could stand the partner, Jay Michael Barrie, supervised the in Los Angeles. The doctor was administering
strain. In the meantime, “my poor, thirsty dose. It was her third experience in three a federal program to investigate the drug’s po-
little (no, big) ego has had the healing months with LSD, as the new hallucinatory tential in treating psychotics and criminals but
draught it needed most᠁ I am so very drug was known. was also interested in its efect on creative and
happy because I feel recognized, appreciat- By 11:55 she was gazing out the window highly intelligent people, such as Clare Luce.

F
ed, wanted … by the one man whose recog- “with great stillness and intensity,” Barrie noted
nition and appreciation matter most in poli- as recorder. They had been listening to Sibelius’s eeling revitalized after three
tics.” In a dozen ways, she added, Ike had Symphony No. 2, and when it ended, Clare mostly pleasant acid trips, Clare
made it clear that “in honoring the wife, he said, still staring at her lawns and fowering dog- began a three-month literary so-
sought to honor and please the husband!” wood trees, “It’s hard to tell whether the music journ on the Caribbean island
She reminded Harry, in a postscript, of his was accompanying that out there, or that out of St. John. Her intent was to
importance around the globe. “Gosh dar- there was accompanying the music.” work on her memoirs, but she
ling, in the tragic environs of Korea and For- At 12:10 she protested that Stravinsky’s found introspection into her painful past daunt-
mosa, does all this sound—trivial and selfish? Renard was “a vast intrusion” on her con- ing and got no further than a brief outline. She
And irrelevant?” templation and should be turned of. “The gave up in favor of writing a detective novel set
After years of marital crises and exhaust- trees, if they knew what they were doing, in Brazil, and at first the prose fowed efort-
ing reconciliations, their mutual support of would be making their own music᠁ The lessly. She told Heard that her facility must be
Eisenhower and shared interest in Cold War colors are beginning to separate themselves due to the prolonged efects of LSD.
politics boded salvation for them both. They into all their exquisite subtleties.” Letters arrived at the island from Father
were now in a position to try to infuence Soon her mood changed again, and she John Courtney Murray, professor of Catho-
policy as well as comment on it. requested that a bowl of lilacs be brought to lic Trinitarian theology at Woodstock Col-
Her true excitement showed in a note to a her. She focused closely on the blossoms and lege, a Jesuit seminary in Maryland. He was
friend at Vogue: “Maggie, I want Italy more said, “Now I’m beginning to see the fowers Clare’s spiritual adviser. During her time in
than anything in my entire life.” breathe. It makes one yearn to see God.” Italy, he had also become a golfing buddy
On December 17, 1952, Clare heard that The sound of an automobile horn outside and confidant of Harry’s, and now wrote to
she had been nominated Ambassador Extraor- announced the arrival of Harry for lunch. “I say that her husband was experiencing an
dinary and Plenipotentiary to the Republic of shall leave you three to wrestle with the spa- unspecified emotional crisis.
Italy. As the frst woman ever to hold such an ghetti,” Clare said. While the men ate, she On September 19, on the first of what
important diplomatic post, she spent three remained on the porch, drinking a cup of Clare described as several “agonized nights”
and a half years in Rome and distinguished broth. Then she went out, spread a blanket of marital confrontation, Harry confessed
herself there despite opposition from chauvin- on the lawn, and lay down. that for the past three years he had been see-
ists in her own embassy as well as Commu- By 6:15 the efects of her trip had worn of. ing and sleeping with Lady Jeanne Campbell,
nists in Italian industry and the government. She joined her husband and guests for dinner granddaughter of the British press mogul
Her major achievement was to help settle the and the kind of cerebral conversation with Ger- Lord Beaverbrook.
intractable Trieste crisis, which threatened to ald that she relished. She had met him in 1947, Now 30, Jeanne was a more mature version
bring about war between Italy and Marxist while working on a screenplay in Hollywood, of the tall, peachy-cheeked 20-year-old Clare
Yugoslavia. In 1959, Eisenhower appointed and had been captivated by his Anglo-Irish remembered from staying with Beaverbrook
her ambassador to Brazil, but in the congres- charm, erudition, and spirituality. The author in Jamaica in 1949. Since the young woman’s
sional hearing to approve her, she crossed of more than 30 books on science, religion, parents had divorced early, she had seldom
swords with the truculent senator Wayne philosophy, and Eastern mysticism, Heard had lived at Inveraray Castle, the ancestral home
Morse, of Oregon, who opposed her so aggres- immigrated to America with Aldous Huxley in of her father, Ian Campbell, Duke of Argyll,
sively that, although confrmed by a large ma- 1937. He had become a devotee of the Hindu in Scotland’s Western Highlands. Instead, she
106 VAN IT Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
WORLD DIPLOMAT
Clare in 1956,
when she was the
U.S. ambassador
in Rome.

JU LY 2 014 www.vanityfair.com VA NIT Y FAIR 107


had stayed at her grandfather’s multiple estab- to her body that caused his incapacity. He had he realized he had given credence to the ru-
lishments, dabbling in acting and having a fing a nerve assuming she would accommodate his mor, he blustered, “There is nothing to it at
with the Fascist Sir Oswald Mosley. Harry had current wish to dump her. This was a moment all.” The result was a headline story on Sun-
met Jeanne again at Beaverbrook’s villa on the to take a cue from The Women, written 23 years day morning, illustrated with a photograph of
French Riviera and become besotted with her. earlier: “What has any woman got to gain by a a bravely smiling Clare.
But it was not until September 1956, while divorce? No matter how much he gives her, she
Clare was winding up her ambassadorship in won’t have what they have together.” The Big Topic in the Intelligentsia Set as well
Rome and Jeanne was working as a photo re- She put this to Harry, but it left him un- as in the Smart Set these days is that Henry
searcher in New York at Life, that Harry had moved. “My girl,” he informed her, “will Luce, publisher of Life, Time and Fortune,
and his talented wife Clare, onetime playwright,
seized the chance to make his fantasy a reality. fight for me.” Evidently “the Lady Jeanne,” Congresswoman and U.S. Ambassadress to
He had dined with her a couple of times in his as society columns called her, was a deter- Italy, are planning a separation—or a divorce.
Waldorf Towers apartment and made a tenta- mined young woman. Clare bounced an ash- Reports reaching this reporter from London
tive pass. Then, in early January 1957, after he tray of Harry’s balding head and followed and Paris, where Luce visited recently, say that
had spent several weeks in Italy with Clare, they up with a torrent of gutter language. His pen- the powerful publisher has admitted to intimate
had what Jeanne characterized as “an explosive chant for Jeanne, she said, was “all sex,” in friends that he and his wife intend to separate.
Luce has been often seen in the company of
coming together,” declaring and consummat- contrast with their own 20-year lack of it.
the lovely Lady Jean [sic] Campbell, daughter
ing their love. He was the “cuddlyist” man in Harry denied that his relationship with of the Duke of Argyll and granddaughter of a
the world, Jeanne told an office colleague, “but Jeanne was one-dimensional, and claimed fellow-publisher, England’s omnipotent and vo-
it took him six months to get it up!” that it was “the last great love” he could ciferous Lord Beaverbrook.

O
When they were apart, which was often, expect. Yet he admitted in the same breath
because the Luces now had a winter home in to sufering from “post coitus triste.” Clare n the weekend of October
Phoenix, Arizona, Harry wrote, telephoned, attributed this sadness not only to Calvinist 10, as Harry discussed his
and sent so many dozens of roses that Jeanne guilt but also to egotistic regret that the pos- marital options with his sis-
ran out of vases. session of his partner had been rushed or in- ter Beth and brother-in-law
On March 15, 1959, afraid Harry might complete. “Orgasm,” she told him, was not Tex Moore, an attorney, the
be happy to continue indefinitely with their “the sole and final end of sex᠁ There can two women vying for his af-
irregular, clandestine couplings, Jeanne pro- be in one gentle kiss, one generous caress, fection addressed urgent appeals to him.
posed marriage. She felt an urgent need to one entwining of fingers more sexuality than Jeanne Campbell cabled from London: “Lots
have children, and asked that he try to allevi- in a whole whorehouse.” of anyway [sic] love and thoughts for my be-
ate what he called his sexual “inadequacy” As the confrontation wore on, Clare sus- loved grumpy growly friend᠁ Think and
by having his prostate fixed. She then left for pected that Harry saw her as his jailer and think hard. Your Jay.”
Europe, setting a deadline of July 15 for him wanted her dead. He intuited her misery Clare wrote him from San Francisco,
to accept or reject her proposal. If the former, and, in a conciliatory gesture, took her in his where she was making a Columbus Day
she expected him to begin at least separation arms. He said “a love deeper than love” ex- speech. She ofered a significant concession.
proceedings. Harry agreed to her proposal in isted between them. “I can never leave you, Though she had “a legal hold” on him, she
writing and went ahead with the operation. if you cannot bear it.” did not wish to exercise it. “You are free to

C
The following night, Harry had a collo- marry Jeanne or not—as you choose. If this
lare now discovered that he quy with Father Murray. He said he could is the only way for me to prove that under-
had been dallying with his not forsake “this pitiful woman,” and might neath it all I bear you more goodwill and love
“girl” during a business trip have to “sacrifice” Jeanne for his wife’s than I have ever borne anyone—you have that
to Paris, on the assumption “greater need.” proof. I could not face the declining years of
that the Luces could agree to On Saturday, September 26, in a state of ex- my life with you, knowing that you shared
a separation pending divorce. hausted armistice, the Luces were having din- them with me only as a prisoner.”
In a further blow, Harry announced that ner à deux at Sugar Hill when Harry was sum- She knew Jeanne was due back in New
he had not really loved her for 20 years and moned to the telephone. The caller was Igor York and said that, since Harry would prob-
had stuck with her primarily because he was Cassini, alias the gossip columnist “Cholly ably want to see the young woman, she
“sorry” for her. But since she had seemed “so Knickerbocker,” of the New York Journal- would await his decision in Phoenix.
well, so happy, so confident” lately, he felt that American—William Randolph Hearst’s big- Clare next heard that Harry had “capitu-
he too “had the right to happiness.” gest scandal sheet. Cassini asked Harry to lated” to his family’s insistence that a divorce
His betrayal and condescension were bad comment on reports that he and his wife were was far too drastic a solution. It would threat-
enough, but as Clare absorbed the longevity separating. en his children’s inheritance and damage his
of his deceit, her fury grew. For two decades Taken aback, Harry said, “Clare and I are reputation as a person of probity. The ensu-
the man standing before her had feigned impo- here together. It is all very premature, to say ing scandal might alienate millions of Catho-
tence, when all along it had been his revulsion the least.” After a short pause, during which lics sympathetic to Clare and adversely af-

“MOST MEN DO NOT KNOW WHAT LOVE IS,


BECAUSE THEY DON’T EVER

LOVE AS EQUALS.”
108 VAN IT Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
Spotlight
fect the value of Time Inc. stock. His lawyer
therefore recommended a legal separation.
ROMA CONQUEST
Logistically, the moment for such a move
was ripe, because the Luces had sold their
52nd Street duplex and were about to take an-
other apartment at the Waldorf Towers. How-
ever they resolved the question of who might
occupy it, Harry would have legal freedom
to be with his mistress whenever he wanted,
while his wife could depend on financial
support to continue in her customary style.
Although Clare had promised to accept
any decision Harry made, the prospect of his
fying to Arizona with actual documents for her
to sign was apparently too much to bear. While
he was en route, she swallowed a large quantity
of sleeping pills. As fate—or her own survival in-
stinct—would have it, Father Murray was stay-
ing with her and called for emergency help.
By the time Harry arrived, she was recu-
perating. He now had to face the possibility
of a recurrence, should he go ahead with the
separation plan. So when a newsman called
on October 19, asking about reports that he
was in Phoenix to break with his wife, he said,
“There’s nothing to it, this report of divorce.”
Later that morning, when he returned to
the Phoenix airport, Clare was at his side.
Harry called Jeanne and told her to leave
New York at once. He was afraid of his wife’s
fragile emotional condition. “I don’t care
where you go, but get out of town.”
On November 6, the Luces left for a week in
Hawaii, where Harry was opening a Time Inc.
ST Y LE D BY DE B OR A H A F SHA N I ; H A IR P RO DUC TS BY R EN E F URT E RE R ; M A KE UP P RO DUC TS A ND NA I L E N AME L BY CHANE L; HAI R BY CHRI STI AN MARC ;

Moran Atias,
office. Before the war, they had been enchant- photographed in
MA K EU P BY F IO N A ST IL E S; MA N I CUR E BY N ET TI E DAVI S ; P RO DU CE D O N L O CAT I ON BY VI EW F IN DE RS ; FOR D ETAI L S, GO TO VF.CO M/C RE DI TS

ed by Oahu, and he had promised to look for Los Angeles.


“a little palace by the waters,” where Clare

S
ATIAS WEARS A DRESS BY


could swim and surf. His search had been un- PRABAL GURUNG; EARRINGS
BY TIFFANY & CO.;
successful. They agreed to look again, seeing NECKLACE BY BULGARI;
RING BY CARTIER.
it as a fresh venture for them both. Before they
headed for the mainland, Harry told Clare
that he “no longer wanted a divorce” and pre- ometimes you start believing the way society treats you. Gypsies are
ferred to “go down the long road” with her. treated like dirt, so you believe you’re dirt,” Israeli-born actress Moran

I
Atias declares boldly. To prepare for her role as Monika in this sum-
n February 1960, Gerald Heard mer’s romantic drama Third Person (written and directed by Paul Hag-
and Jay Michael Barrie joined gis, and co-starring Liam Neeson and Olivia Wilde), Atias begged on
Clare in Phoenix for what the streets of Rome and didn’t change or wash her clothes for weeks, experiencing
Heard described as a “wonder- firsthand rejection and disgust as a result.
ful week” of LSD. This time the It was while filming a small role in The Next Three Days with Haggis that Atias knew
experiments were scientifically she wanted to be cast in another of the director’s projects. “I hung out on the set of The
administered by Sidney Cohen himself. Next Three Days and just followed Paul around,” she says. “I thought, I have to work
Harry too took a dose—his first. He
with this filmmaker again.”
was slow to “gain orbit,” but when he did,
“Moran started pitching ideas at me,” he recalls, adding, “At the end of filming we
he sauntered out into the garden, where he
sat down and talked very specifically and honestly about relationships, and I began to
claimed to hear beautiful music. Standing
among cactus plants, he began conducting an think, What if two totally wrong people could actually be right for each other?”
orchestra visible and audible only to himself. Haggis admits he took a chance casting her. “I like finding roles where actors can
For once, Clare did not have a happy expe- surprise you,” he says. “Moran’s an extremely beautiful woman; she oozes sexuality.
rience with the drug. She imagined that Co- But she was untested, and this was a huge role. I thought, Maybe she can pull it off—an
hen had “held up a mirror” to her, and she Albanian Gypsy who survives by her wits, speaks three languages, uses men.”
so disliked what she saw—“a rejected, jailed Three different cities. Three love stories that intertwine in a way you don’t expect. Third Per-
woman”—that she cried in front of him. son is, Atias says, “profoundly personal and revealing about who we are in regard to love.”
Before returning to New York, Harry swore Haggis says choosing Atias to play Monika certainly paid off: “I’m very happy that this is go-
on the Bible that it was his “solemn intention” ing to be Moran’s breakout performance. She’s a force of nature.” —TA M ASIN DAY- LE WIS
JU LY 2 014 PH OTOGRA PH BY JAN WELTERS 109
KENNEDY SAID HE DISLIKED HAVING
CLARE LUCE TELL HIM “HOW TO

RUN THE WORLD.”


J
to stay married to Clare for life. Then, on Feb- eanne was in New York by early at Harry’s urging—made Clare realize that her
ruary 29, he surprised her by phoning to say he July, as was Winston Churchill’s husband had betrayed her yet again.
was coming to Arizona again the following day. tempestuous son, Randolph, a She was rushed to Doctors Hospital, on
Despite his biblical vow, he now said that he close friend of hers and Clare’s East 87th Street, to be pumped out. Harry is-
did not love her, still loved Jeanne, and wanted former lover. He had been sent sued a statement that his wife had sufered “a
to negotiate a “concordat” that would enable to America by the New States- digestive disturbance.” In an agony of contri-
him to have his “last chance” to “dominate” man to cover the two presidential conven- tion, he sent her a handwritten apology. “I
someone. He said he needed to see Jeanne tions being held that month. While the En- want to go on with you because I have loved
again so that he could make up his mind. glishman was in Manhattan, Jeanne let him you very deeply and I do love you.”
On or about May 16, Clare got a letter from stay with her in a small rental apartment. Lady Jeanne Campbell eventually married
Harry assuring her that “the Final Encoun- The Democrats convened in Los Angeles the novelist Norman Mailer, who fathered her
ter” had taken place in Paris, and he had told on July 11, and four nights later Joe Ken- long-desired first child, Kate. But the mar-
Jeanne that he was staying married. Surprising- nedy arrived at the Luces’ suite to watch riage ended after a year.
ly, she had shed few tears. Clare wrote at once his son John accept the nomination, after a

I
to congratulate him on his “astonishing abili- last-minute challenge by Senator Lyndon B. Clare at Camelot
ty to get everyone … to see things your way.” Johnson. “We stand today on the edge of a n early October 1960, John Kenne-
At the end of a nine-day Caribbean vaca- New Frontier,” the charismatic young candi- dy’s Catholicism became a potential-
tion, Clare re-united with Harry in New York date said, “the frontier of the 1960s.” ly serious liability in his election cam-
for the Memorial Day weekend. She soon A week after that, Randolph boozily invei- paign against Richard Nixon. Clare
found out that he had been lying to her about gled himself into a dinner Clare was attending received a call from an agitated Joe
breaking off completely with Jeanne Camp- with the former heavyweight boxing cham- Kennedy, asking her “to do Jack a
bell. In fact, he had taken her from Paris for a pion Gene Tunney, at the new Four Seasons big favor.” He complained that, everywhere his
week-long car tour of Switzerland. This revela- restaurant, on Park Avenue. She managed son held a rally, swarms of nuns were settling in
tion, plus another—that he had told Jeanne he to have him seated far from her, because of the front seats, “clicking their rosaries and their
“would marry her” if he ever got a divorce— his habit of loudly proposing marriage every dentures” in excitement. Joe thought Cardinal
led to long hours of acrimonious argument, time they met. To avoid having him escort her Spellman might be able to do something
with Clare yet again trying to get Harry to say home, she slipped out early, on the pretext of about it, but he could not approach His Emi-
what he wanted, and he, as was his habit, ask- going to the ladies’ room. But in the street, as nence. “The S.O.B. hates me. I beat him out
ing her to decide what he should do. By late she hailed a taxi, Randolph came fying out, of some real estate,” he said, chuckling. “But
Monday night, both of them were exhausted, pursued by Tunney, and jumped into the cab you could tell him, tactfully, that if he wants a
and she went to bed. Around 12 o’clock, he with her. It moved of, and Tunney ran along- Catholic in the White House, he’d better keep
came into her room and said portentously, “It side, shouting to the driver, “I am Gene Tun- those goddam nuns from hogging all the front
is God’s will. You are the cross I have to bear.” ney. You get this lady back to the Waldorf at rows. This isn’t an ordination—it’s an election!”
At the end of her tether, Clare picked up once, safely, or you will be hearing from me!” Nixon, too, was concerned about the reli-
the telephone. She dialed the Waldorf’s As Tunney fell behind, Clare became gious question and asked Clare for advice on
Western Union office and dictated a telegram: aware that Randolph was moaning. “What’s how to “keep it out of the campaign as much
the matter with you?” she asked. “I’m going as possible.” He had read that 25 percent of
jeanne campbell, inveraray castle, ar- to sue,” he said. In the chase out of the res- the voters in Akron, Ohio, were for him be-
gyll, scotland. harry says that he wishes taurant, Tunney had apparently given him a cause they were anti-Catholic. It followed that
to marry you and that he will soon be in
kidney punch. others might be against him because he was
the position to do so. congratulations.
clare luce.
She shot out at the Waldorf and, leaving a Quaker.
Randolph to pay, headed upstairs, telling the As a friend and co-religionist of the Ken-
Harry, outwitted and furious, called the op- desk clerk not to admit Mr. Churchill under nedys’, Clare was rumored to be a J.F.K.
erator back and asked her to cancel the wire. any circumstances. Randolph was reduced supporter. She did favor him, feeling that, al-
He was told that only the sender could do to phoning her and begging her to side with though he had less experience than Nixon, he
that, so he fired of one of his own: disre- him in the event that he brought suit against had “more capacity for growth in office and
gard telegram from clare. Tunney. She assured him that, on the con- would probably win.” However, on October 4
A month later Jeanne, trying to stay opti- trary, she would be a witness for Gene. she issued a statement saying that as a veteran
mistic, looked for a house in Jamaica where Farce quickly turned to near tragedy later of Republican politics she intended to vote for
she and Harry might live. She was therefore that night when Harry came home to find that the vice president.
fabbergasted to receive a letter from him, Clare had taken an overdose of sodium amytal. Choosing a candidate was not so easy for
telling her yet again they could not marry. In all likelihood, Randolph had told her with Henry Luce. As editor in chief of a hugely
He gave no explanation except to say that his usual blunt honesty that he was staying infuential news empire, he knew that his en-
Clare had made an “unserious” threat to with Lady Jeanne Campbell. The shocking dorsement was coveted by both candidates.
jump from their 41st-foor apartment. news that Jeanne was back in town—no doubt They vied with each other in professing strident
110 VAN IT Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
Spotlight
anti-Communist views, knowing Harry’s obses-
sion with the Cold War. He felt that Kennedy
PURE DYNAMITE
was more “imaginative” on for-
eign policy, and was tempted to
back him for that reason. He also
admired the young man’s social
sophistication and literary bent,
going as far as to write a new
foreword to Kennedy’s book
about appeasement in the 1930s,
Why England Slept. But having
given Nixon five favorable cover
stories in four years, he found it
hard to reject him now. So, in
mid-month, Life came out for the
Republican, but so halfheartedly
as not to spoil Kennedy’s chances
in November.
Clare went to Washington on
January 18, 1961, to attend the
inauguration of John Fitzgerald
Kennedy. Two days later she
climbed into an inaugural-ball
bus in a white satin Lanvin gown
and found herself sitting next to Chadwick Boseman

‘I
Vice President Johnson. She re- channels James Brown
minded him that when they had on the set of Get On Up
last met, just before the Demo- in Natchez, Mississippi.
cratic convention, he had been
confident of getting the presidential nomi-
wanna get . . . under your skin-uh; if I get there, I
nation and had profanely vowed that even if
got to win-uh.” As a statement of intent, this cou-
he lost there was “no way” he would take the
plet, from James Brown’s 1971 hit “Soul Power
second spot under J.F.K.
“Come clean, Lyndon,” she teased him. Pt. 1,” sums up the Godfather of Soul’s philoso-
He leaned close and whispered, “Clare, phy as well as any. No musician insinuated the
I looked it up. One out of every four presi- funk into American pelvises more deeply and comprehen-
dents has died in office. I’m a gamblin’ man, sively than Brown, who first charted in the 1950s and kept
darlin’, and this is the only chance I got.” performing nearly right up until his death, in 2006.

I
But how to get under James Brown’s skin-uh? That’s
n a February 1962 column for Mc- the challenge that director Tate Taylor (The Help) has
Call’s magazine, Clare answered a undertaken with Get On Up, the long-aborning biopic
reader’s question: “Do you think Mrs. (whose producers include Mick Jagger) about the famil-
Kennedy should be censured for buy- iar yet enigmatic singer, which opens in August. Taylor,
ing some of her clothes from Paris?” a Mississippian, tapped actor Chadwick Boseman, a
Her reply began innocuously native South Carolinian, to play Brown, who was born
enough. “The personal activities of the Presi- in South Carolina and raised just over the border in Au-
dent’s wife cannot be dissociated from her gusta, Georgia. The shared geographic roots were use-
role as First Lady.” But then she could not ful, Boseman says, in grasping the influences that shaped
resist parodying J.F.K.’s inaugural rhetoric. Brown: “the blues culture, the rich southern griot vernacu-
“She must not ask herself, ‘What can these lar,” as he puts it.
clothes do for me?’ but ‘What do these clothes Still, Boseman had to dig deeper to summon the quick-
I wear do for America?’ ”
silver James Brown spirit, especially given that Boseman
Her remarks caused a nationwide furor,
is neither physically nor temperamentally like Brown, a
with headlines such as clare boothe luce
spark plug who topped out at around five feet six inches
dresses down jackie kennedy and jackie
censured? luce fur flying. The White
in stacked heels. Six feet tall and dulcet of voice—traits
House announced that the First Lady’s that served him well when he played Jackie Robinson in
clothes were all American-made, except for last year’s 42—Boseman is satisfied that the work he’s put
a Givenchy gown she had worn in Paris “as a in (the thinking, the voice training, the practice splits) has
tribute to the French people.” resulted in a convincing portrayal.
Clare dismissed the uproar, saying, “Mrs. “It’s like pouring a glass of water. Whether you pour it
Kennedy would look gorgeous in a gunnysack.” into a tall glass or a short glass, it’s still the same water,”
The president, at any rate, was not ofend- he says. “If you pour the spirit of James Brown inside me,
ed. He wrote in March to invite Clare to sit it’s still gonna flow out.” — DAVID K A MP

JU LY 2 014 PH OTOG R APH BY GASPER TRINGALE 111


on his proposed Advisory Council on the “Such as I have—very little—I am urging It was up to him, Clare conceded, whether
Arts, whose job would be to develop a pro- them to keep their eye on Cuba now.” to invade or impose a naval blockade. “Mili-
gram for the National Cultural Center in Kennedy asked, “Assuming Cuba is a tarily Cuba is more important to us than the
Washington, adding that he hoped they would threat, what is your policy?” city of Berlin᠁ Maybe the sentence by which
“meet soon.” Two weeks later, on her 59th Clare said only that she feared the island you will go down in history will be: He kept this
birthday, Clare accepted the appointment. would become a base for Communism to hemisphere free and did not yield in Berlin.”
In early September, Letitia Baldrige, the spread into Latin America. “It looks easier when you are on the out-
White House social secretary, called Clare to say, “If we take action in Cuba,” the president side,” the president said.
“The President wants you to come down here.” said, “it may be used as a pretext for the Rus- When Hugh Sidey, Time’s presidential cor-
“What about?” sians to take Berlin.” respondent, came to pick Clare up after lunch,
“I think he’s unhappy about some of the He was clearly still nervous about the previ- he found her and J.F.K. standing impatiently
things Time has been publishing.” ous year’s near nuclear confrontation between on the White House steps. Evidently the meet-
Clare said she had no influence at her hus- the Allies and the Soviets over the multi- ing had not gone well. Clare had no word to
band’s magazines, but obeyed the summons. national occupation of Berlin. Just a month say about her encounter, but Kennedy let Sidey
On Wednesday the 26th, according to her earlier, an East German youth had been know that he disliked having Clare Luce tell
detailed notes, Clare was ushered into J.F.K.’s gunned down trying to escape over the wall him “how to run the world.”
small dining room on the second floor of the that now divided the city. Cuba was not the president’s only major
White House. Jack Kennedy had dated Ann Clare said that his argument meant that problem that day. A black man named James
Brokaw years earlier, and Clare found her dead Cuba had placed the United States in a “glob- Meredith had just tried to enroll as a student in
daughter’s former beau still “slim, handsome, al double bind,” and asked which danger spot the all-white University of Mississippi and was
courteous, [his] graciousness concealing a great he thought was easier to break out of—Cuba being denied admission by state officials. Vio-
inner reserve.” or Berlin. lence began to flare around the Oxford cam-
The president’s first remark took her aback: Kennedy’s response was dismissive. “We pus on Saturday night, after Kennedy signed
“Gather you have something on your mind.” can get ready in three weeks for the invasion an order sending federal troops to safeguard
Clare had expected him to tell her what of Cuba. We could win there, obviously.” Meredith’s registration. But there was a delay
was on his. But since he’d asked, she said, Waiting even that long, she warned, would in deployment, and the rioting turned bloody
“Yes, I have.” “be more costly in American lives.” on Sunday night, just as J.F.K. was premature-
There was a long pause, so she continued. “I “There are some situations you have to live ly announcing on television that the crisis was
woke this morning with a thought᠁ The greater with,” he said. being resolved. Order was restored by Monday
a man is, the easier it is to describe his great- Clare again asked if Americans should tol- morning, and Meredith attended his first class
ness in a single sentence.” She gave him some erate the presence of Russian military power under armed protection.
examples. “Does anyone need to tell you the 90 miles from Florida. “Why is the extrusion In a letter thanking the president for lunch,
name of these men: He died to save us᠁ He of Communism in Vietnam and the Near East Clare reminded him of her “single sentence”
discovered America᠁ He preserved the Union more important to us than in our own sea of theory of historic eminence, and could not
and freed the slaves᠁ He lifted us out of a De- our own shores?” resist adding that the recent events in Missis-
pression and won a great World War … ? What “Your policy, then, is war with Cuba and sippi had proved it.
is on my mind, Mr. President, is what sentence the risk of nuclear war with the U.S.S.R.?”
will describe you when you leave here.” The Soviets had not risked it over Vietnam He upheld and enforced the law of the land
“I am not interested in my place in history,” or Korea, Clare reminded him. She felt the against segregation in Mississippi. A noble sen-
tence! A sentence for all the world to read and
Kennedy said. He changed the subject to Cuba. United States should “call their bluf” in its applaud. A sentence which describes not only
own hemisphere. the act, but the actor. We know him, not because

L ess than a month before, U.S. aerial sur-


veillance had confirmed the existence of
eight Soviet missile sites on Fidel Castro’s Com-
Kennedy was dubious. “ ‘Calling their bluf,’
as you put it, could lead to nuclear war.”
“Nuclear war will settle nothing for any-
of what he said but because of what he did.

Although Clare remained an outspoken


munist island. Kennedy had announced that body. But if Khrushchev really believes it will, critic of Kennedy’s policies after the peaceful
the United States would consider it provocation now is the time to find out.” resolution of the Cuban missile crisis—she
if offensive weapons were installed in Cuba. “You would rather take Cuba than hold was particularly vocal in her disapproval of his
The Senate had voted 86–1 to authorize the use Vietnam or Berlin.” costly space program, at the expense of ocean-
of force if he deemed it necessary, in the face of “We are holding Vietnam alone,” she said. ographic research—their relations remained
a warning by the Soviet foreign minister, Andrei “Berlin is a multilateral commitment. If our cordial, and she cried over his assassination,
Gromyko, that any U.S. attack on Cuba or Allies want to hold it at the risk of nuclear war, in 1963.
Cuba-bound shipping would mean war. we will be in better shape to honor that commit-
In view of these escalations, Clare was sur-
prised to hear Kennedy say he did not think
ment without Russia at our back door.”
C lare grew steadily more conservative in
her widowhood, yet embraced and was
Cuba was “at present” dangerous compared
with other flash points in the world.
“I cannot quite understand, Mr. President,
K ennedy rejected her brinkmanship. “I do
not wish or intend to be the President
who goes down in history as having unleashed
embraced by the emerging feminist move-
ment. On October 16, 1971, she appeared
in Westchester, New York, for a weekend of
why the presence of Communist power in nuclear war.” “film, food and talk” centering on a screen-
Vietnam is a threat to our security 9,000 miles “Nobody—not you or Khrushchev—will go ing of the 1939 movie version of her play The
away, and the presence of it in Cuba is not.” down in history in the event of nuclear war. A Women. It was hosted by New York maga-
“Would you have us give up our commit- veil will be drawn over the history of the West. zine’s movie critic, Judith Crist, at the Tarry-
ment in Vietnam? As I remember it, Time No one can benefit but China. Khrushchev town Conference Center. After the Saturday-
magazine urged us to take action there. Cuba knows that too.” night show, Clare, Crist, and Gloria Steinem
was around at that time.” “You have not yet said what your Cuban had a panel discussion of George Cukor’s di-
“I don’t speak for or edit Time,” she said. policy is—except that regardless of what our rection. Steinem said that it was such a parody
“You surely have some influence.” Allies think, we should invade.” of femininity that it should have been played
112 VAN IT Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
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in drag. Clare responded that, although the she could be openly tolerant of free sex and Clare Boothe Luce died in 1987, four years
cast was female, her script was really about adultery. “After a long life and a long night,” after she was awarded the Presidential Medal of
heterosexual men, because women of that she told the audience, “I think most men do Freedom by Ronald Reagan. �
era saw fulfillment in looking after them. All not know what love is, because they don’t ever
the panelists favored the three characters she love as equals, and the master never really loves
portrayed as amoral go-getters: Crystal (Joan the slave.” She seemed to have in mind the FROM THE ARCHIVE
For these related stories, visit VF.COM/ARCHIVE
Crawford), the husband stealer; Countess de theme of Slam the Door Softly, her parody of
Lave (Mary Boland), who used younger men Ibsen’s A Doll’s House. “To love an equal—it • Tales of Clare Boothe Luce
for sex; and Miriam (Paulette Goddard), the takes big men and big women.” (Marie Brenner, March 1988; Sylvia Jukes
Morris, May 1997)
seducer of the spouse of catty Sylvia (Rosa- The crowd enjoyed the debate so much that
• “The Great Garbo”
lind Russell). it lasted until 1:30 a.m. Clare had the last word: (Clare Boothe Brokaw, February 1932)
It was not surprising that Steinem, at 37 “I think Gloria and I would agree on most • The founding of Henry Luce’s empire
a glamorous icon of the new “women’s lib” things. But if we didn’t, we still could not air (Isaiah Wilner, October 2006; Alan Brinkley,
movement, should have such opinions. But them publicly᠁ It would be announced that May 2010)

Clare, at 68, had evolved to the point where we had had a hair-pulling contest.”

Poker Princess company that made a billion dollars a year.


Tobey was losing, so he was back to dis-
“Whew, you’re lucky I won that hand,” he
said, crinkling his eyes and using his usual half-
approving of me, my tips, and the game in kidding/half-serious/you-guess-which tone.
general. Now he was in for $250,000, down I nodded.
to his last $50,000, and trying to dig his way “You have to cut Jamie of, you know.”
out. Jamie was once again playing like it was “I know,” I said, counting Tobey’s chips.
his last day on earth, and Tobey knew his best He held a thousand-dollar chip in his hand.
shot at getting out of the hole was Jamie. Pale He flipped it over a couple times in his fingers.
and thin, Jamie had won $12 million in the “This is yours,” he said, holding it out.
World Series of Poker Main Event, the largest “Thanks, Tobey,” I said, reaching my hand
sum in the history of the tournament. Usually, out.
I wouldn’t have considered allowing a World He yanked the chip back at the last second.
Series champion into the game, but Jamie was “If … ” he said. “If you do something to
C O N T I N U E D F R O M P A G E 8 3 my usually no pro; he had simply been running hot and earn these thousand dollars.” His voice was
impossible-to-please players had a look on playing fearlessly. loud enough that some of the guys looked up
his face that said he would rather be here, at Jamie and Tobey were all in, and I wasn’t to see what was happening.
this table, than anywhere in the world. My tips sure which one I was rooting for. Jamie had I laughed, trying not to show my nerves.
that night reflected the enormous success of almost lost his bankroll, and once he did, I “What do I want you to do?” he said, as if
the game. I think I walked away with close to wouldn’t be able to let him play anymore. he were pondering.
$50,000. I had discovered an incredible niche, I liked Jamie—he was kind and generous. To- The whole table was watching us now.
and I had learned the formula to make it suc- bey was the worst tipper, the best player, and “I know!” he said. “Get up on that desk
cessful and keep it legal. the absolute worst loser, but I had to worry and bark like a seal.”
about my job security if he lost. I held my I looked at him. His face was lit up like it
Ace in the Hole breath and watched Diego turn over the cards. was Christmas Eve.

W e were at another insane game, and I


was watching Guy persuade another
player to fold a winning hand. Guy was a huge
Tobey won.
Predictably, Tobey stood up immediately
after the hand that made him whole. “Well,
“Bark like a seal who wants a fish,” he said.
I laughed again, stalling, hoping he would
play the joke out by himself and leave.
gambler, aggressive and ruthless at the table. that’s it for me.” He came over to me and set “I’m not kidding. What’s wrong? You’re
He ran a circus-themed live-performance his stacks on my clipboard. too rich now? You won’t bark for a thousand
JU LY 2 014 www.vanityfair.com VAN IT Y FAI R 113
Poker Princess He gave me an icy look, dropped the chip
on the table, and tried to laugh it of, but he
I raised my eyebrows. In what other universe
do you show up, play a game, win a million dol-
dollars? Wowwww … you must be really rich.” was visibly angry. lars, and get the check within a week? The only
My face was burning. The room was silent. When he left, the room was buzzing. reason this game was still running was that I had
“C’mon,” he said, holding the chip above “What was that?” searched far and wide to recruit new blood and
my head. “bark.” “So weird.” maintain relationships so that Tobey could take
“No,” I said quietly. “Glad you didn’t do it, Molly.” their money. Now he had the balls to suggest
“No?” he asked. that I figure out a way to cap my own salary.
“Tobey,” I said, “I’m not going to bark like
a seal. Keep your chip.”
My face was on fire. I knew he would be an-
I knew it was more than a childish tantrum.
It had been a challenge because Tobey
wanted to show that he was the alpha. I knew
I smiled at him.
“I’ll look into it,” I murmured.
“Thanks,” he said. �
gry, especially because he had now engaged the I hadn’t made the most strategic decision by
whole audience, and I wasn’t playing his game. refusing to submit, but I also needed to retain Author’s note: In some places, I’ve changed the
I was embarrassed, but I was also angry. After the respect of the other players. names, identities, and other specifcs of individu-
all I had done to accommodate this guy, I was For the first time since the game began, I als in order to protect their privacy and integrity.
also shocked. I had made sure I ran every de- realized that it could end. So, in all likelihood, The conversations I re-create come from my clear
tail of every game by him, changed the stakes did Tobey. He had anticipated everything except recollections of them, though they are not written
for him, structured tournaments around him, how much money Diego and I were making, to represent word-for-word transcripts. Instead,
memorized every ingredient in every vegan dish and our take-home seemed to be eating him up. I’ve retold them in a way that evokes the real
in town for him. He had won millions and mil- He began bringing up how much I was feeling and meaning of what was said.
lions of dollars at my table, and I had catered making even more frequently, not even trying
to his every need along the way—and now he to hide his dissatisfaction. FROM THE ARCHIVE
seemed to want to humiliate me. “I think the game needs re-structuring,” he For these related stories, visit VF.COM/ARCHIVE
He kept pushing it, his voice growing loud- said one night.
• Poker in Hollywood
er and louder. The other guys were starting to “How so?” (David Kamp, April 1996; Duff McDonald,
look uncomfortable. “Well, you make too much and it takes too March 2005)
“No,” I said, again, willing him to drop it. long to get paid.”

Dubai Airport already runs daily flights between Abu Dhabi


and New York, Chicago, and Washington, D.C.
when the journey was an exhilarating part of
the experience rather than a dread necessity.
It has just started a similar L.A. service, and There are many reasons for this spectacu-
plans a Dallas route later this year. lar rise of the Middle East airlines, but the
Hogan is a more abrasive version of Emir- impetus, above all, comes from the region’s
ates’ Clark, although his start in the travel in- political leaders’ putting their oil wealth to
dustry was as humble as his rival’s: he was a good use. Willie Walsh, C.E.O. of Europe’s
check-in clerk working for Ansett Airlines in International Airlines Group, looks on envi-
his native Australia and, like Clark, learned ously from his ofces at London’s Heathrow
something about dealing with difcult airline and says with barely concealed anger that
passengers. He says he sees the future as the “their governments recognize that airlines are
battle of the hubs—the Asian hubs, the Euro- a facilitator of economic development and
pean hubs, and, in the near future, the Chi- growth. Whereas here [in the West], govern-
C ON T I N U E D F ROM PAGE 75from Abidjan, the nese and Indian hubs. “One could call it the ments, through lack of commitment, vision,
Ivory Coast, to Shanghai belongs to the Euro- Old Silk Road being re-invented,” he says. or policy, have seen air transport stagnate.”
pean airlines? How can they claim that? The “Just look at India. There are some 300 And when the oil dries up? That really is the
point here is that the number of people traveling million middle-class people there who are point of this supercharged growth spurt. While
between Shanghai and Côte d’Ivoire in the old traveling, and the links, say, between India Dubai, in 2001, ranked 99th in international
days was probably five a week. Now it’s 5,000. and America are strong. A lot of kids in these air trafc, it now ranks first. Whereas Emirati
“The Americans,” he continues, “are simi- regions go to American universities, there are aviation, in the 90s, was a fledgling industry,
lar to the Europeans in their archaic labor more American multi-nationals in the region, today it represents 30 percent of Dubai’s
practices and processes and in the way com- and the next opportunity is leisure travel.” G.D.P. This is a business that was certainly
panies are engineered internally. Some are A number of frequent fliers I’ve spoken to founded on a tidal wave of petrodollars. But
trying to pull themselves into the 21st century. say they prefer Etihad to Emirates because it now it has a life of its own. And, for the time
But we got there first.” has a more personal, intimate feel. As I board being, all those flush travelers filling all those
an Etihad Boeing 777 on the Abu Dhabi– plush cabins seem increasingly grateful. �
Bridging the Gulf London route I can barely tell the diference.

E ighty miles across the barren desert in Abu


Dhabi is Clark’s opposite number, James
Hogan, an Australian who for the past seven
Their flight crews, according to Hogan, come
from 120 nations. Their average age is 26. The
comfortable seats—all with digital entertain-
FROM THE ARCHIVE
For these related stories, visit VF.COM/ARCHIVE

years has been the president and C.E.O. of ment systems—have 34-inch pitch in economy, • The age of the Concorde
(David Kamp, October 2003)
Etihad. He oversees a kind of boutique version 73 inches in business, and 80 inches in first,
• When flight attendants soared
of the Dubai airline, with similarly excellent in- the latter classes offering lie-flat beds. The (Bruce Handy, October 2002)
flight service, food and drink, and touch-screen mood, even as we prepare for takeof, is one • Dubai,a tale of two cities (Nick Tosches,
digital entertainment. Etihad also has serious of glamour and buoyancy. In a way, it reminds June 2006; A. A. Gill, April 2011)
designs on the American market. The airline me of Virgin Atlantic in its youthful heyday,
114 VAN IT Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com JU LY 2014
Jeff Koons Koons, including Kruger, will say, is that mon-
ey doesn’t interest him. He has three very per-
sonal luxuries: his home in New York City, the
ON THE
farm, and his collection of older art, which in- COVER
cludes Magrittes, Courbets, and Manets. The Shailene Woodley
farm, now expanded from 40 acres to approxi- wears a dress and shoes
by Saint Laurent by
mately 800, is almost a Koonsian artwork. The Hedi Slimane; earrings
buildings are painted in heritage red, yellow, by Eva Fehren. Hair
and white in the full-on tradition of the area. In products by Sunsilk.
Makeup products
the main house, historic wallpapers, the pat- by Chanel. Nail enamel
terns shifting from room to room, give the feel- by Deborah Lippmann. Hair by Teddy Charles.
ing of a kaleidoscope. But this farm is very Makeup by Tyron Machhausen. Manicure by
Deborah Lippmann. Set design by Thomas
much a private retreat for the family. Thurnauer. Styled by Jessica Diehl. Photographed
CON T I N U ED F ROM PAGE 95 evolving tech- In Koons’s public life there is no showy “I exclusively for V.F. by Miguel Reveriego in
nologies are so sophisticated and so much a am rich” stuf. Money is mostly a means to an New York City. For details, go to VF.com/credits.
part of the work that the Whitney devotes an end for him to create his art. What he does
entire chapter to them, written by Michelle need is wealthy patrons. Rothkopf, whose ret- a painter paints a painting or a sculptor makes
Kuo, the editor of Artforum, in the catalogue rospective is blessedly clear-eyed, puts it this a sculpture it is not complete unless a behold-
for the show. Reading about the CT scans, way: “If it is going to cost several million dol- er, a viewer, responds to it.”
structured-light scanning, volumetric data, cus- lars to produce new work, he has got to mar- Kandel adds, “When you looked at the
tomized software, and personalization of fab- tial the resources from wealthy patrons to pro- sculptures you saw yourself embedded in
rication technologies, I started to understand duce this thing. He has to convince extremely the gazing balls. Artists sometimes put mir-
why all those people are needed in Koons’s wealthy people, via art dealers, to buy into the rors in works, but they don’t design the work
studio. Most days there are 128 of them going dream of this perfect object.” so that you fnd yourself in the arms or chest
at it, some doing just what Michelangelo’s as- of a statue, which is what Jef did.”
sistants did, such as mixing colors, while oth-
ers seem to be doing lab work for advanced
degrees in radiology.
W hile Koons has continued to explore
popular imagery—such as the Hulk
and Popeye (whose spinach he equates with
When I was visiting the artist and his fam-
ily at their farm, and all of us—Jef, Justine,
and the kids—jumped into his Koonsmobile, a
Such a huge operation, combined with the art’s transformative power)—he has also been stretch van with a captain’s chair for every
achievement of perfection in the work, helps to producing other work in the last few years, child, he was the happiest I’d seen him in the
explain why Koons’s art costs so much to pro- both paintings and sculptures, that obviously 30 years since we frst met. He told me, “One
duce, and also what Koons has to do to pull it draw on his love of antiquity and classical art. of the things that I’m most proud of is making
of. Barbara Kruger, the artist whose unsenti- For last year’s knockout show, “Gazing Ball,” work that lets viewers not feel intimidated by
mental pronouncements have been cutting to at the David Zwirner gallery—the announce- art, but feel that they can emotionally partici-
the chase about the art world for decades, says ment of which temporarily caused the art- pate in it through their senses and their intel-
“Oh boy” when I call to discuss Koons, whom world gossips to venture that he was leaving lect and be fully engaged. And feel that they
she has known since they both were starting Gagosian, which wasn’t true—he collaborated can get a foothold in it, to push themselves of
out in New York. She needed to think about it with the Louvre’s plaster workshop, outside of of, and lift themselves up on.” As we drove
and later wrote me: “Jef is like the man who fell Paris, the Staatliche Museen’s Gipsformerei, through small industrial communities that had
to earth, who, in this grotesque time of art fip- in Berlin, and others. An expert in stone and defnitely seen better days, Koons pointed out
page and speculative mania, is either the icing casting at the Metropolitan Museum helped the ubiquitous garden ornaments in so many
on the cake or some kind of Piketty-esque formulate the custom plaster which Koons used front yards—the gazing balls, the inflatable
harbinger of the return of Brecht’s ‘making for the sculptures—a modern plaster as durable bunnies. It’s a Jef Koons world. �
strange.’ Or a glitteringly bent version of that as marble. Each work had an electric-blue gaz-
alienated vision. He brings the cake and lets ing ball—those glass globes that were a Venetian
them eat it.” Kruger’s reference to Thomas staple in the 13th century and re-popularized in FROM THE ARCHIVE
For these related stories, visit VF.COM/ARCHIVE
Piketty, the French economist whose book on Victorian times—placed at a strategic spot.
the current chasm between the very rich and the Dr. Eric R. Kandel, a Nobel Prize–winning • Jeff Koons, kitsch connoisseur
very poor has become a cultural touchstone, neuroscientist, was so impressed with the (Mark Stevens, December 1989;
Anthony Haden-Guest, November 1991)
is part of the whole picture; this social reality is show that he e-mailed Koons afterward. I
• Jeff Koons, Pop’s heir
what one can’t help thinking about when one asked Kandel why. He explained, “I have (Ingrid Sischy, March 2001)
hears about the prices of contemporary art to- been interested in the ‘beholder’s share,’ an • Jeff Koons, super-yacht designer
day, especially the sums that Koons’s works are idea that came from the Viennese art historian (Mark Seal, November 2010)
fetching. The odd thing, as many who know Alois Riegl. It involves the concept that when

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JU LY 2 014 www.vanityfair.com VAN IT Y FAI R 115


PROUST QUESTIONNAIRE

Willem
DAFOE
The prolific, Oscar-nominated actorÑwhose career has spanned films from
The English Patient to Finding Nemo, and now roles in this summer’s The Fault
in Our Stars and A Most Wanted ManÑadmits he thinks ambition is overrated

W hat is your idea


of perfect hap-
piness? Present-
mindedness. What is your
greatest fear? A crippling accident.
it’s easier. What or who is the great-
est love of your life? My family.
When and where were you happi-
est? Discovering Rome on my
scooter with my wife when we frst
Which historical figure do you most met. Which talent would you most
identify with? Harry Houdini—we like to have? African drumming.
both escaped the “favelas” of Apple- What is your current state of mind?
ton, Wisconsin. Which living person Curious, if a little anxious, about where
do you most admire? Bob Dylan: his society/culture is going after the impact of
great gift as a poet and musician, his the revolution of new technologies. What do
long, incorruptible career—and he con- you consider your greatest achievement?
tinues to tour constantly. What is the I’m never bored. If you were to die and
trait you most deplore in yourself? come back as a person or thing, what do
Punctuality (outside of work, of course). you think it would be? A garden hose or a jack-
What is the trait you most deplore in others? rabbit. If you could choose what to come
Selfshness. What is your greatest extrava- back as, what would it be? A woman.
gance? Long afternoon naps with my wife. What is your most treasured possession?
What is your favorite journey? No matter My thin, engraved Victorian wedding
how much I travel—I’m like a kid—I love a band, which I found in a pawnshop. It’s
plane ride: looking at the cloud formations, the only jewelry I’ve ever worn. What do
down at the land and water, the cities … you regard as the lowest depth of mis-
What do you consider the most overrated ery? Envy. Where would you like to live?
virtue? Ambitiousness. On what occasion A warm, tropical island where I can walk
do you lie? When I go backstage after a around all day in boxer shorts and a “wife
friend’s show that I didn’t love—I try to be en- beater.” What is your favorite occupation?
couraging more than critical. They instinctively Vegetable gardening. Who are your heroes in
know when it’s not good. They don’t need my real life? People who are dedicated in their
truth. What do you dislike most about your work to truly helping others. What is it that
appearance? I love how I look! Which words you most dislike? English weather. How would
or phrases do you most overuse? “Beautiful.” you like to die? How doesn’t matter—it’s
What is your greatest regret? Not learning when that matters. When I’m ready! What
foreign languages when I was young, when is your motto? “Never say never.”
116 VA NI T Y FA I R www.vanityfair.com I LL U STR AT IO N BY RISKO JU LY 2014

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