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Optimization of water and chemical use in a cotton polyester fabric dyeing

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SDEWES2014.0054-1

Optimization of Water and Chemical Use in a Cotton/Polyester Fabric

Dyeing Textile Mill

Emrah Ozturk1
Department of Environmental Engineering
Suleyman Demirel University, Isparta, Turkey
e-mail: emrahozturk@sdu.edu.tr

Hasan Koseoglu1, Nevzat Ozgu Yigit1, Ulku Yetis2, Mehmet Kitis1*

1
Dept. of Environmental Engineering, Suleyman Demirel University, Isparta, Turkey
2
Dept. of Environmental Engineering, Middle East Technical University, Ankara, Turkey

ABSTRACT
In this study, environmental and technical performances were evaluated in a textile mill
employing cotton and polyester weaving-knitting fabric and subsequently dyeing-finishing.
Cleaner production assessment studies based on the Integrated Pollution Prevention and
Control (IPPC) principles were conducted. Detailed on-site investigations and analysis on
production processes were performed. Based on the wet processes various specific
consumptions, waste generations and pollution loads were determined. The potential
wastewater and/or chemical recovery and reuse options were determined. A company-wide
chemical inventory study was conducted and the chemicals were evaluated in terms of their
toxicological effects. It was found that a total of 74 chemicals should be replaced with less
toxic and more biodegradable counterparts. After the implementation of good management
practices, water and chemical consumptions optimizations/minimization and chemical
substitutions, the following reductions could be achieved; water consumption: 43-51%,
chemical consumption: 16-39%, total wastewater flowrate: 45-52% and COD load: 26-48%.
Thus, water-wastewater and chemical costs might be reduced between 28-49%. It was found
that the pay-back period of such investment is ranged from 1-26 months.

Keywords: BAT, chemical, cleaner production, dyestuff, textile, specific water consumption.

INTRODUCTION
Textile industry is one of the most complicated and historical sector in industrial production
processes [1,2]. Textile industry has a significant role in both industrialized and developing
countries by its value, production capacity and export incomes [3,4]. Textile industry shows a
heterogeneous arrangement due to the long production chains and various sub-sectors [5].
Wastewaters with high pollution load due to the intensive water and chemical consumption
can be listed as the major environmental concerns in textile industry [6,7]. Specific water and
chemical consumption can be variable in textile industry depending on fiber form, applied
techniques and technologies [8,9]. Specific water consumption of textile industry varies
between 20-350 L/kg product [6,8,9]. In addition chemical consumption is about 10-100% in

* Corresponding author. Tel.: +90 2462111289; Fax: +90 2462118218.

E-mail address: mehmetkitis@sdu.edu.tr (M. Kitis).
SDEWES2014.0054-2

proportion to total fiber weight [10]. Textile wastewaters have high chemical oxygen demand
(COD), salinity and color content [4,11,12]. Discharge of insufficiently treated textile
wastewaters may cause irreversible environmental problems [6,13,14]. Besides, adaptation to
the strict discharge limitations and legal obligations creates huge expenses for small and
medium sized enterprises of textile industry [4,15]. Today, pollution control necessities, high
investment costs, resource costs and efficiency factors leading the sector to the cleaner
production approach [4,9]. The term cleaner production was defined by UNEP as: “The
continuous application of an integrated environmental strategy to processes, products and
services to increase efficiency and reduce risks to humans and the environment” [16].
Technical, economical and environmental performances of the facilities can be enhanced by
the application of cleaner production approach [5,9,11]. The European Commision (EC) has
adopted IPPC Directive (96/61/EC) in 1996 in order to prevent industrial pollution [17,18].
Directive is based on the application of “best available techniques-BAT”. The selection of
Best Available Techniques consists in finding the appropriate balance between environmental
performance and technical and economical availability [5]. Also, BAT reference documents
(BREF) for specific sectors was published by the European IPPC Bureau for the adaptation
process [18]. IPPC Directive was rearranged in 2010 as “Industrial Emissions Directive (EID-
2010/75/EU)” by combining seven different directives. Turkey, which is a European Union
candidate and one of the most important textile suppliers in Europe has initiated the IPPC/EID
adaptation process by enacting “Integrated Pollution Prevention and Control in Textile
Sector” (Turkish BREF) comminuqué in 2011 [1,2].

In this study, technical and environmental performances of a textile mill employing cotton
and polyester (PES) fabric and subsequent dyeing. Cleaner production assessment studies
were conducted according to the IPPC principles. Water and chemical consumption issues
were especially focused during the on-site investigations. In this context, mass balance
analyses were conducted on the basis of wet processes. Wastewater samples from all points of
the wastewater sources and composite wastewater samples were collected. Thus,
recovery/reuse potential of the wastewaters was evaluated. Also, a chemical inventory study
was conducted and acute/chronic toxicities, biodegradation and bioelimination specifications
of the chemicals were determined. It was found that the application of cleaner production
techniques is effective in minimization of water/chemical consumption and wastewater flow.
Furthermore, potential technical, economical and environmental benefits by the application of
cleaner production techniques were evaluated. This study aims to be a road map for the
implementation of cleaner production techniques and technical/environmental performance
evaluations of similar textile mills and sector stakeholders.

METHODOLOGY

Studied textile mill

In the context of cleaner production approach, water and chemical optimization studies were
conducted in a textile mill employing cotton and polyester (PES) weaving-knitting fabric and
subsequent dyeing. The mill is located in Denizli province where is the major textile
manufacturer and exporter in Turkey. Annual pretreatment (desizing, scouring and
bleanching) and dyeing capacity of the mill is 2412 and 6682 tonnes, respectively. Two main
production lines are present at the mill which are HT (high tempreture)-over flow
(atmospheric machine) and pad-batch. Continuous exhaustion techniques in HT-over flow
processes and batch impregnated-padding techniques in pad-batch processes are employed.
Reactive and disperse dyes are intensively used in dyeing operations since the production of
SDEWES2014.0054-3

the mill is mainly based on cotton and polyester fabrics. Raw water of the mill is supplied
from groundwater resources and further softened by cationic ion exchange resins. Average
raw water consumption of the mill is 3100 tonnes/day. Process waters are mainly consumed
by finishing-fininshing/dyeing processes, steam generation, regeneration of ion exchange
resins and domestic usage. Besides, process waters used in steam boilers are treated by
reverse osmosis (RO) processes. Raw water is also used in facility cleanings. Generated
wastewater from various production processes is collected through a combined channel
system. Generated industrial and domestic wastewaters discharged to a wastewater treatment
plant. Average composite wastewater flow of the mill is (except domestic wastewater) 2573
tonnes/day. Water and chemical recovery applications have not been performed at the mill
before. However, certain cleaner production techniques have already been applied for the
minimization of water and chemical consumption. Automatic dosage systems for chemicals
are used in HT-over flow processes (continuous finishing/dyeing). Quality management
system, Occupational Healty and Safety Assessment Series (OHSAS) ve Oeko-Tex 100
standards are implemented in the mill.

Data collection and analysis in the studied textile mill

This study was conducted in three phases. In the first phase, on-site investigations were
performed and water/chemical consumptions of the production processes were evaluated. It
should be noted that the production schedule and dyeing recipes in the studied mill may vary
by time based on fashion trends and customer orders. To compensate for these variations and
capture the general performance of the mill, three years of continuous data (2010-2012) was
used. Samples from raw and process waters were collected in different periods and analyzed
for pH, conductivity, hardness, total dissolved solid (TDS) etc. parameters. Samples from
composite wastewaters (2 hours) were collected in different periods and analyzed for pH,
conductivity, chemical oxygen demand (COD), total suspended solid (TSS), total nitrogen
(TN), color etc. parameters. Furthermore, factors (fiber type, applied techniques, process
specifications, color shade etc.) affecting the characteristics of wastewaters were taken into
consideration and recovery/reuse potantials of wastewater were evaluated accordingly. Water
and wastewater analyses were performed according to the relevant Standard Methods [19].
COD analysis was performed according to Standard Method 5220-D (closed reflux
colorimetric method) using Hach-Lange DR5000 spectrophotometer. TN was measured
spectrophotometrically according to Standard Method 4500-N-B (persulfate digestion
method). Composite samples (2 h) were collected in duplicate. Furthermore, analytical
measurements of each sample were conducted in triplicate. Furthermore, a detailed chemical
inventory study was also conducted in the mill and material safety data sheets (MSDS) for
291 chemicals were evaluated, especially based on biodegradability and toxicity (LC50, LD50,
IC50, and EC50). Thus, chemicals which were possessing environmental and health risks were
determined. In the second phase of the study mass balances for water and chemicals on the
basis of processes were calculated. In this context, specific water, chemical and pollutant
loads were calculated. Current performance of the mill was compared with the similar textile
mills in literature and IPPC BREF documents. In this way, fundamental perspective of cleaner
production approach needed in the studied mill was composed. In the third phase of the study
cleaner production suggestions were determined on the basis of EC IPPC BREF and Turkish
BREF documents. Suggestions were discussed with facility managers in the frame of
technical, economical and applicability aspects. Thus, technical, economical and
environmental benefits of suggested cleaner production techniques were determined. Also,
potential pay-back period of cleaner production investment was calculated.
SDEWES2014.0054-4

RESULTS and DISCUSSION

Evaluation of environmental performance in the studied mill

Optimization of water consumption and wastewater generation in production processes

Raw water of the mill is supplied from groundwater resources. 2% of the raw water is
consumed directly in facility cleaning. 98% of the raw water is softened in cationic ion
exchange resins and further used in production processes. 82% of the softened water is
consumed in wet process. Two main production lines for fabric finishing-dyeing are present at
the mill which are HT (high tempreture)-over flow and pad-batch. Continuous technique is
employed in HT-over flow process. This process supplies 66% of the total fabric production
with 60% share in overall water consumption. Pretreatment and dyeing-finishing procedures
in HT-over flow process are responsible from 18% and 42% of the overall water
consumption, respectively. Main reason of the high water consumption in dyeing and
finishing processes is the number of baths employed. On the other hand, pad-batch processes
are responsible from the 34% of the total fabric production with 22% share in overall water
consumption. Pretatment and dyeing-finishing procedures in pad-batch process are
responsible from 9% and 13% of the overall water consumption, respectively. Pad-batch
processes consist of long process lines. This fact is responsible from the excess water
consumption and long process duration especially in finishing processes. Besides finishing-
dyeing processes softened waters are also consumed in steam generation, regeneration of ion
exchange resins and domestic usage. Steam generation is responsible from the 7-8% of the
overall water consumption. Also, process waters used in steam boilers are treated by RO
processes. Hence, hardness-causing ions are rejected and related scale formation is prevented.
In addition, energy efficiency of the mill is improved by using closed steam system in the mill
and steam losses are minized in this way. Besides, condensate is reused in steam boilers for
enhanced water and energy savings. Regeneration of the ion exchange resins is responsible
from the 9-10% of overall water consumption. Regeneration wastewaters with high salinity
content are directly discharged to the wastewater collection channel. Domestic usage has
0.3% share in overall water consumption. Specific water consumption of the production
processes and their distribution in the mill were calculated (Table 1). Accordingly, specific
raw water consumption and specific softened water consumption are varied between 95-102
L/kg product and 93-100 L/kg product, respectively. Specific water consumption of HT-over
flow and pad-batch finishing-dyeing processes is varied between 85-90 L/kg product and 55-
64 L/kg product, respectively. In the literature specific water consumption values of the
cotton-PES weaving and knitting fabric dyeing-finishing mills are given as 5-508 (in average:
113) L/kg product and 20-377 (in average: 83) L/kg product, respectively [20]. Specific
process water consumption values of fabric finishing-dyeing mills in IPPC BREF document
are varied between 7-645 L/kg product [5]. In addition, specific water consumption values of
cotton weaving and knitting fabric dyeing-finishing mills are varied between 21-645 and 60-
216 L/kg product in BREF document, respectively [5]. Specific water consumption values of
the PES weaving and knitting fabric dyeing-finishing mills are given as 7-248 and 35-229
L/kg product [5]. According to that, specific water consumption of the mill was in the range
of values given in both literature and BREF document. However, it was determined that the
specific water consumption of the mill was potentially decreased by 16-79%. Physico-
chemical composition of the water used in finishing-dyeing processes is in critical importance
in terms of production efficiency. High conductivity and hardness content of softened waters
may directly affect on production efficiency. Hence, samples from raw and softened waters
were analyzed for pH, conductivity, turbidity, TDS, iron, sulfate and hardness parameters and
performance of the softening system was also evaluated. Accordingly, hardness of softened
SDEWES2014.0054-5

water was 36 mg CaCO3/L which means that softening system works well and needs no
optimization.

Specific wastewater generations and their distributions in the mill were determined.
Accordingly, finishing-dyeing processes are responsible from the 88% of the overall
wastewater generation. HT-over flow and pad-batch finishing-dyeing processes have shares
of 64% and 24% in overall wastewater generation, respectively. HT-over flow process
wastewaters consist of pretreatment (30%) and dyeing-finishing (70%) wastewaters. The
reason of this fact is the numerous washing-rinsing procedures especially in finishing
processes. Wastewaters of pad-batch process are generated mainly (70%) from the finishing
procedures. In this case, 35% and 52% of the wastewaters are generated by the pretreatment
and dyeing-finishing processes. Also, facility cleaning, domestic wastewaters and
regeneration of ion exchange resins are responsible from the 2%, 0.4% and 10% of overall
wastewater generation, respectively. Specific wastewater generation of the mill is varied
between (including domestic wastewaters) 86-94 L/kg product. Specific wastewater
generation of HT-over flow and pad-batch finishing-dyeing processes are 86 and 60 L/kg
product. Recovery/reuse of finishing-dyeing wastewaters has never been applied in the mill.
Water savings up to 15-79% could be achieved by the application of cleaner production
techniques in textile industry [2,5].

Table 1. Spesific water consumptions and their distribution based on the wet processes

Specific water consumption

Average specific Percent of total
Sources of water consumption water consumption Unit water consumption
(min.-max.) (average)
Raw water 97 (95-102) (L/kg product) 100
Facility cleaning 5 (4-6) (L/m2-day) 2
Processes water 95 (93-100) (L/kg product) 98
HT-over flow process 88 (85-90) (L/kg product) 60
Pretreatment 30 (29-31) (L/kg product) 18
Dyeing and finishing 66 (64-68) (L/kg product) 42
Pad-batch process 61 (55-64) (L/kg product) 22
Pretreatment 25 (22-26) (L/kg product) 9
Dyeing and finishing 41 (37-43) (L/kg product) 13
Steam generation 7 (6-7) (L/kg product) 7
Ion-exchangers regeneration 9 (8-12) (L/kg product) 10
Domestic usage 43 (28-45) (L/person-day) 0,3

Specific wastewater generations and their distributions in the mill are given in Table 2.
Furthermore, factors (fiber type, applied techniques, process specifications, color shade etc.)
affecting the characteristics of wastewaters were taken into consideration and wastewater
samples from processes were collected. pH, conductivity, COD, TSS and color parameters
were analyzed (Table 3). Thus, recovery/reuse potentials of finishing-dyeing wastewaters
were evaluated. In this context, reuse criteria (pH: 6-8, conductivity <2200 µs/cm, COD <218
mg/L, TSS <50 mg/L and color 20-30 Pt-Co) of textile wastewaters in literature were
generally adopted [21-24]. According to the results of wastewater characterization studies
samples from HT-over flow processes (2, 3, 4, 5, 8 and 11) and from pad-batch processes (13,
16, 17 ve 18) have high COD, TSS, color and conductivity. Wastewaters from dyeing-
finishing processes also have high concentrations for mentioned parameters above. Hence,
these wastewaters are not suitable for direct reuse-without treatment (DR) in dyeing-finishing
processes. Such kind of wastewaters can only be reused in production processes after
SDEWES2014.0054-6

appropriate treatment. In this respect, advanced treatment technologies such as membran

processes (microfiltration-MF, ultrafiltration-UF, nanofiltration-NF ve reverse osmosis-RO)
have been employed with increasing number of installations [8,25]. On the other hand
wastewater samples (1, 7 and 10) are suitable for direct reuse-without treatment for TSS,
color and conductivity parameters. But high COD content limits the reuse of these
wastewaters. Hence, these wastewaters can only be reused in finishing dyeing processes after
treatment. Residual chemicals (softening agents) are responsible from the high COD content
of these wastewaters. Thus, chemical recovery would be an option by direct reuse of these
wastewaters in same processes. Furthermore, these wastewaters could be directly reused in
facility cleaning. Wastewater samples (6 and 19) have high color content for direct reuse and
can only be reused in finishing-dyeing processes after appropriate treatment. However, these
wastewaters can be reused in same process after the chemical composition rearrangement.
Waste dyebath effluents can also be reused after chemical composition rearrangement. Thus,
water, energy and chemical consumptions can be significantly reduced. Dyebath analysis can
be performed using spectrophotometer and/or may be determined by production experiences
[5]. Reuse of dyeing bath in textile mills might decrease the water consumption and COD
load by 35% and 33-35% respectively [26-28].

Table 2. Specific wastewater generations and their distributions in the mill

Specific wastewater generation

Average specific Percent of total
Sources of wastewater wastewater water
Unit
generation generation consumption
(min.-max.) (average)
Process wastewater 88 (86-94) (L/kg product) 98
HT-over flow process 86 (86-88) (L/kg product) 64
Pretreatment 29 (29-30) (L/kg product) 19
Dyeing and finishing 64 (64-66) (L/kg product) 45
Pad-batch process 60 (60-62) (L/kg product) 24
Pretreatment 42 (42-44) (L/kg product) 17
Dyeing and finishing 20 (20-21) (L/kg product) 7
Ion-exchangers regeneration 9 (8-12) (L/kg product) 10
Facility cleaning 5 (4-6) (L/m2-day) 2
Domestic wastewater 43 (28-45) (L/person-day) <1
Total wastewater generation 88 (86-94) (L/kg product) 100

Because of the have high COD and color content of wastewater samples (12 and 14) reuse
option can only be viable after appropriate treatment. Sample 12 can be directly reused in
same process after chemical composition rearrangement. It was found that samples of 9 and
15 are suitable for direct reuse in finishing-dyeing processes. Besides, final washing-rinsing
wastewaters of HT-over flow process are also suitable for direct reuse in finishing-dyeing
process. Water consumption could be decreased 6-21% by the recovery/reuse of washing-
rinsing and softening wastewaters [29,30]. In addition, regeneration wastewaters of ion
exchange resins with high salinity content are directly discharged to combined wastewater
channel. Whereas regeneration wastewaters could be reused in facility cleaning and cotton
fabric dyeing process where high salinity process water is a necessity. In addition,
regeneration wastewaters could be reused in finishing-dyeing process after RO treatment.
Water savings around 5-10% could be achieved by the optimization of water softening system
[31]. Besides, composite wastewater generation and its pollutant load could be decreased.
SDEWES2014.0054-7

Composition and flow of generated wastewaters in the mill are greatly variable day by day
due to the production schedules, process specifications and applied recipes. Hence, composite
wastewaters were collected in different periods and analyzed for pH, conductivity, COD,
TSS, oil-grease, NH4-N, TP, sulfur, sulfide, free chlorine and color parameters. Specific
COD, TSS and oil-grease loads were calculated as 122, 22 and 0.9 g/kg product, respectively.
Furthermore, specific pollutant loads of processes were also determined. Specific COD and
TSS loads of HT-over flow finishing-dyeing process are 313 and 43 g/kg product,
respectively. Specific COD and TSS loads of pad-batch finishing-dyeing process are 95 and
24 g/kg product, respectively. Specific COD and TSS loads of HT-over flow pretreatment
process wastewaters are 99 and 17 g/kg product, respectively. Specific COD and TSS loads of
finishing-dyeing processes are 211 and 5 g/kg product, respectively. Specific COD and TSS
loads of pad-batch finishing processes and pretreatment operations are 88 and 23 g/kg
product, respectively. Specific COD and TSS loads of pad-batch dyeing and finishing
operations are 6 and 0.3 g/kg product, respectively. It is reported in the literature that similar
textile mills have specific wastewater generation of 67-265 L/kg product [32] and COD load
of 43-303 g COD/kg product [2,9,18,33,34]. It is also mentioned in IPPC BREF document
that similar textile mills have specific wastewater generation and COD load of 21-618 L/kg
product and 14-302 g COD/kg product, respectively [5]. Hence, it is determined that the
specific wastewater generation and COD load of the studied mill is in the given range. It
should also be underlined that wastewater generation and COD load could be decreased 65-
88% and 22-30%, respectively by the application of various cleaner production techniques.
COD loads of composite wastewaters could be decreased by 20-50% with the recovery and
reuse of textile wastewaters [18,35]. In addition to recovery/reuse techniques significant
technical, environmental and economical advantages could be achieved with the following
good management practices: establishment of environmental management system, application
of monitoring techniques on the basis of processes, preparation of inventory reports in terms
of mass balances, performing preventive maintenance programs, implementation of
procedures regarding water-wastewater management etc. Overall water consumption could be
decreased by 5-10% in textile facilities by good management practices [36].

Table 3. Wastewater characterization and evaluation of reuse potentials in wet processes

Wastewater characterization based on wet processes

Sample pH Conductivity COD TSS Color Reuse
Sources of wastewater Processes Color shade
No. (µS/cm) (mg/L) (mg/L) (Pt-Co) potential
1 PES-softening HT-over flow Light/dark 4,1 962 1479 19 38 WT/DR
b
2 Reductive washing HT-over flow Light/dark 3,3 1552 9486 48 764 WT
3 Optical bleaching HT-over flow Light/white 10,8 9240 8466 2440 349 WT
4 Soaping process-1 HT-over flow Dark 5,6 6380 2193 115 3903 WT
5 Bleaching HT-over flow Light/dark 10,8 4540 5202 2890 2356 WT
6 Reactive dyeing-1 HT-over flow Light 10,5 27700 281 34 137 WT/DR
7 Soaping process-2 HT-over flow Light -a - 2142 24 38 WT/DR
8 PES-dyeing-1 HT-over flow Dark 3,5 992 9690 82 4712 WT
c
9 Softening HT-over flow Light/dark 4,8 807 740 46 22 DR
10 Enzyme HT-over flow Light/dark 5,1 1987 918 82 <20 WT/DR
11 Reactive dyeing-2 HT-over flow Dark 10,7 92200 1581 196 713 WT
12 PES-dyeing-2 HT-over flow Light 4,2 1769 1556 22 167 WT/DR
13 Mercerization cabin 2 Pad-batch Light/dark - - 1530 228 301 WT
14 Washing/rising cabin 1 Pad-batch Dark 10,2 3930 510 16 382 WT/DR
15 Washing/rising cabin 2 Pad-batch Light - - 82 18 <20 DR
16 Cold bleaching cabin 2 Pad-batch Light/dark 10,2 4750 4896 1680 1911 WT
17 Cold bleaching cabin 4 Pad-batch Light/dark 9,1 915 1224 210 652 WT
18 Cold bleaching cabin 3 Pad-batch Light/dark 9,2 1062 2550 610 117 WT
19 Hot bleaching cabin 5 Pad-batch Light/dark 8,4 898 204 12 317 WT/DR
*Analyze results on January 2013 aData not available bWT: reused with treatment cDR: directly reused (without treatment)
SDEWES2014.0054-8

Optimization of chemical consumption and chemical inventory studies in the mill

Specific chemical consumption and their distributions were calculated based on wet processes
in the mill (Table 4). In this respect, dyestuff and auxiliaries consumptions in HT-over flow
process were 56% and 72%, respectively. Dyestuff and auxiliaries consumptions in pad-batch
process were 44% and 28%, respectively. Chemical consumption was more intensive in HT-
over flow dyeing-finishing process. The major factor of the high share of this process in
overall chemical consumption was due to share of itself (66%) in overall production. Specific
dyestuff and auxiliaries consumptions of the mill were determined based on the wet processes
and calculated as 10 and 366 g/kg product, respectively. Specific dyestuff and auxiliaries
consumptions in HT-over flow process were 8 and 405 g/kg product and 13 and 298 g/kg
product in pad-batch process, respectively. It is understood that dyestuff usage was more
intensive in pad-batch process and auxiliaries usage was higher in HT-over flow process
according to these specific consumption values. Long process chains, application of pad-batch
type dyeing and manual techniques can be listed as the main reasons of high dyestuff
consumption. Residual dyestuff was removed with wastewater effluent and significant
amount of dyestuff was lost in the pad-batch process. Moreover, the main reasons of high
auxiliaries consumption in HT-over flow process were high amount of salts using in reactive
dyeing, high share of production, lack of automatic dosage system in some dyeing machines
and absence of chemical or water reuse/recovery techniques. Specific chemical consumption
performance of the mill was compared with similar textile mills in the literature and IPPC
BREF document. It is reported in the literature that similar textile mills employing cotton-PES
weaving and knitting fabric subsequent dyeing and finishing have specific dyestuff and
auxiliaries consumptions values in the range of 0,5-397 and 3-1776 g/kg product, respectively
[37,38]. IPPC BREF document was indicated that specific dyestuff and auxiliaries
consumptions in the similar mills were ranged between 10-50 and 95-670 g/kg product,
respectively [5]. Also, specific dyestuff and auxiliaries consumptions of cotton weaving-
knitting fabric dyeing-finishing mills were 10-20 and 380-670 g/kg product, respectively.
Specific consumptions of mainly PES weaving-knitting fabric dyeing-finishing mills were
ranged between 10-50 and 95-430 g/kg product, respectively [5]. In this respect, specific
dyestuff and auxiliaries consumptions of the studied mill were in the mentioned ranges.
However, specific dyestuff and auxiliaries consumptions of the mill could be potentially
reduced 10% and 28%, respectively. Chemical consumption of textile mills could be
significantly reduced with the automatic chemical dosage system application, improved
coordination between laboratory and dyehouse (11-20%) [26,39], optimization of recipes and
chemical substitution (10-20%) [36], chemical consumption monitoring-control and
recovery/reuse options (20-50%) [37]. Moreover, wastewater COD load could be reduced 30-
50% with cleaner production techniques [26,39,40]. Chemical consumption and wastewater
COD load could be reduced 10-15% and 33-35% with recovery/reuse of dyebath effluent,
respectively [26-28]. Also in similar textile mills, chemical savings of 2% could be achieved
with preventive maintenance-repair, cleaning and leakage control practices [29-30].

Chemical inventory studies were performed in the mill. MSDSs of 291 chemicals (86
auxiliaries and 155 dyestuff) were studied. Biodegradability rate (Organization for Economic
Co-operation and Development-OECD 301 A and 302 B Zhang-Wellens test values), acute
and eco-toxicity concentrations/dose (LC50, LD50, EC50 ve IC50) of each chemicals were
investigated. Chemicals were classified as low biodegradability rate (<%70) and (<10 mg/L)
highly toxic, (1-10 mg/L) toxic, (10-100 mg/L) medium toxic, (>100-180 mg/L) low toxic,
(>180) non-toxic in the frame of chemical eco-toxicity studies [26,34]. According to the
chemical inventory studies, 53 dyestuff have low biodegradability rate (%10-25) and 2
dyestuff have toxic characteristic (Chemical Abstract Service Number-CAS: 132174-48-2;
SDEWES2014.0054-9

17095-24-8 ve 2580-78-1). It was also determined that 19 auxiliaries have low

biodegradability or toxic characteristic. Toxic auxiliaries were polyamine derivative (CAS:
68131-73-7), protein enzymes (CAS: 9001-05-2), propanol (CAS: 67-63-0), sodium
hypochlorite (CAS: 7681-529-9), fatty alcohol polyglycol ether, aryl ethyl phenilpolyglycol
ether (CAS: 9043-30-5), isotridecanol, ethoxylates, lactic acid (CAS: 69011-36-5; 79-33-4)
etc. Total 74 chemicals (19 auxiliaries and 55 dyestuff) designated in the mill were required to
replace with environmentally friendly substitutions. Ozturk et al. (2009) was also carried out a
chemical substitution studies in a denim fabric mill. 128 chemicals were evaluated and
substitution of 8 chemicals was suggested [10]. It was also reported that wastewater sulphide
concentration was reduced 76% and biodegradability rate was decreased by 26% [10].

Table 4. Specific dyestuff and auxiliaries consumptions and their distributions in the mill

Specific dyestuff and auxiliaries consumptions

Average specific Average specific Percent of Percent of
dyestuff auxiliaries total dyestuff auxiliaries
Processes
consumption consumption consumption consumption
(min.-max.) (min.-max.) (average) (average)
HT-over flow process 8 (7-9) 405 (382-408) 56 72
Pad-batch process 13 (11-15) 298 (280-305) 44 28
Total 10 (9-10) 366 (347-383) 100 100

Evaluation of environmental and economic savings/benefits by the application of cleaner

production techniques
Technical and environmental performance of the mill was evaluated by mass balance
calculation on the basis of wet processes according to the cleaner production principles. In
this context, cleaner production techniques of good management practices, water and
chemical consumptions optimization/minimization and substitution options were suggested to
the studied mill. Also, suggested cleaner production techniques were discussed with the
management staff for applicability in the mill. Ultimately, 14 cleaner production techniques
were determined. It was found that by the application of good management practices
(environmental management system establishment, preventive and effective maintenance-
repair program preparation, application of monitoring and better control techniques based on
wet processes, preparation of annual waste inventory reports, improved research and
development (R&D) studies, revised production schedules according to the cleaner
production techniques) total water and chemical consumptions could be reduced 3-5% and 2-
5%, respectively. Wastewater generation and COD load could be reduced 3-6% and 3-10%,
respectively. By the optimization/minimization of water consumption techniques
(reuse/recovery of washing/rising and softening wastewater, reuse of suitable dyebath,
optimization of water softening unit and regeneration wastewater recovery/reuse, application
of counter-washing techniques in pad-batch washing process) total water and chemical
consumption were reduced 46-50% and 10-25%, respectively. Moreover, wastewater
generation and COD load were reduced 48-56% and 16-20%, respectively. By the
optimization of chemical consumption and substitution techniques (removing iron from fabric
surfaces before scouring process and prevention of complex chemicals usage, automatic
dosage system installation, caustic recovery from mercerization process wastewater by
membrane techniques and chemical substitution) chemical consumption were reduced %6-14
and COD load of wastewater could be reduced 10-25% in the mill. Moreover, it was
calculated that the potential pay-back period of suggested cleaner production techniques were
SDEWES2014.0054-10

ranged between 1 to 26 months. By the application of suggested cleaner production

techniques water-wastewater and chemical costs in the mill could be reduced approximately
49% and 28%, respectively. Calculated savings, reduction rates and pay-back period of the
suggested cleaner production techniques were given in Table 5.

Table 5. Calculated savings and reduction rates for cleaner production techniques in the mill

Potential savings and reduction rates

Water Chemical Wastewater COD load Pay-back
saving saving reduction reduction period
Cleaner production techniques
rate rate rate rate (months)
(%) (%) (%) (%)
Good management practices
Environmental management system
establishment, preparing of preventive
maintenance-repair programs, application of
monitoring and control techniques based on
the wet process, preparing of annual waste
inventory reports, improved R&D studies, 3-5 2-5 3-6 3-10 1-12
revised production schedules according to the
cleaner production techniques
Water consumption optimization and
minimization techniques
Reuse/recovery of washing/rising and
softening wastewater, reuse of suitable dye
bath, optimization of water softening unit and
regeneration wastewater recovery/reuse, 46-50 10-25 48-56 16-20 4-26
application of counter-washing techniques in
pad-batch washing process.
Chemical consumption optimization and
substitution
Removing iron from fabric surfaces before
scouring process and prevention of complex
chemicals usage, automatic dosage system
installation, caustic recovery from
mercerization process wastewater by -a 6-14 - 10-25 13-24
membrane techniques and chemical
substitution
Total savings/reduction rate 49-55 18-44 51-62 29-55 -
Effective saving/reduction rate 43-51 16-39 45-52 26-48 1-26
a
Data not available

CONCLUSIONS
Environmental and technical performance of a textile mill employing cotton-PES fabric
weaving-knitting subsequent dyeing-finishing was evaluated by focusing on water and
chemical consumption, wastewater generation and pollution loads. Based on IPPC Textile
BREF documents and Turkish BREF, a list of cleaner production techniques was suggested to
the studied textile mill. It was found that some separate wastewater streams from wet
processes could be directly reused in dyeing-finishing processes and facility cleaning even
without treatment. A company-wide chemical inventory study indicated that a total of 74
chemicals (19 auxiliaries and 55 dyestuff) should be replaced with less toxic and more
biodegradable counterparts. After the application of suggested cleaner production techniques
the following reductions/savings could be achieved; water consumption: 43-51%, chemical
consumption: 16-39%, total wastewater flowrate: 45-52% and COD load: 26-48%. Thus,
water-wastewater and chemical costs might be reduced between 28-49%. It was found that by
SDEWES2014.0054-11

the application of various suggested cleaner production techniques the pay-back period of
such investment is ranged from 1-26 months.

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