You are on page 1of 29

Contents

I. INTRODUCTION
II. ROOF TILE (C-PAC MONIER ROOF)
1. MATERIALS AND TOOLS
2. METHOD FOR INSTALLATION ROOF TILE
2.1 Roof Structure Preparation for Tiling
2.2 Batten spacing and Batten Calculation
2.3 Batten Installation Tips
2.4 Heat Insulation Installation
2.5 Tile Preparation on Site
2.6 Tile Installation
2.7 Angles Hips Installation for Hip Roof
2.8 Barge Installation
2.9 Round Ridge Installation Tip for Gable Roof & Round Hips Installation Tips for Hip
Roof
2.10 Valley Trough Installation and Valley Tile Cutting
3. INSPECTIONC & TOLERANCE
4. REFERENCE
III. ROOF ZINC
1. Material and Tool
2. Method for installation
3. Tolerance for inspect
4. Reference
I. INTRODUCTION
Roof is part of a building envelope. It is the covering on the uppermost part of a building or shelter which provides
protection from animals and weather. Some roofs are sloped or pitch, so the rain falls off easily. Some roofs are
flat, but even flat roof have a little bit of pitch so the water can flow away towards a drain.

In this book it will show about the 3 types of roof:

- C-PAC Monier Roof Tile

- Zinc Roof
II. ROOF TILE (C-PAC CONCRETE ROOF)
Roof tile are designed mainly to keep out rain, and are traditionally made from locally available material.

1. MATERIAL and TOOL

Roof Tile (C-PAC)

Tube Steel or Galvanized Steel

Ridge Cap Roof

Heat Reflective SCG


Valley Trough (SCG)

Welding Machine

Steel Cutting Machine

Hand Drilling Machine


Hand Cutting Machine

Tap Measure

Spirit Level
2. METHOD FOR INSTALLATION

2.1 ROOF STRUCTURE PREPARATION FOR TILING

Before Installing Roof tile we need to know some method to preparing Roof Structure:

 Sample Roof Slop angle for Roof Tile ( C-PAC )


 Check the right angle of roof at the right-to-verge joint and the eaves-to-verge joint.
 The right angle is 90 degrees
 Make sure that the top of each rafter is leveled with 0.5cm inaccuracy at maximum to protect the roof from
leakage
 The minimum roof pitch must not be less than 17 degrees
 The top of outer fascia board must be raise 2.5cm higher than the top of batten and keep the distance
from the fascia board to the batten at 34cm from tile installation in order to prevent tile raising or falling.
 The top of outer bargeboard and the top of batten must be equally high because if it is higher than the
bargeboard the angle verge will raise, detaching from the tile.
 All the tile side to jointing wall, Install reinforces concrete to cover at least 20cm of tile. The button of
reinforce concrete must be higher than the top of batten 8cm.

Details

a. Sample Roof Slop angle for Roof tile (C-PAC)

Minimum Slop 17o

Maximum Slop 90o

Special or general Slop 30o-35o

Sample Slop for 17o Sample Slop for 30o Sample Slop for 35o
b. Check the right angle of roof at the right-to-verge joint and the eaves-to-verge joint
c. The right angle is 90 degrees

d. Make sure that the top of each rafter is leveled with 0.5cm inaccuracy at maximum to protect the roof from
leakage
e. The top of outer fascia board must be raise 2.5cm higher than the top of batten and keep the distance
from the fascia board to the batten at 34cm from tile installation in order to prevent tile raising or falling.

Straight Installation of Fascia Board 90 degree Installation of Fascia Board


f. The top of outer bargeboard and the top of batten must be equally high because if it is higher than the
bargeboard the angle verge will raise, detaching from the tile.

Because if it is higher than the bargeboard the


angle verge will raise, detaching from the tile.

g. All the tile side to jointing wall, Install reinforces concrete to cover at least 20cm of tile. The button of
reinforce concrete must be higher than the top of batten 8cm.

Installing RC to cover at least 20cm of tile Button of RC must higher than the top of batten 8cm
2.2 BATTEN SPACING AND BATTEN CALCULATION

 Batten Spacing

- Batten spacing must start with the top and the button batten. Then measure the length of the remaining
space

- Fixing a first row of batten by keeping the distance from the outer edge of the outer fascia board to the
top edge of the batten at 34cm

- Fixing the pair of battens at the ridge by keeping the gap between each other at 4-6cm

- Then measure the length (L) of the remaining space. The length, In L meter, should be equally divided
into section with a space of 32-34cm each for the remaining battens, be careful with the batten spacing. A
space beyond the suggested scope will make tiling too difficult or lead to leakage.

 Batten Spacing Calculation

- Find the number of batten row by dividing (L) meters with a space of 33cm
- Divide the given number of batten row with (L) meters to find proper spacing
There are some progresses in photos for Batten Spacing:

Details:

a. Batten spacing must start with the top and the button batten. Then measure the length of the remaining
space
b. Fixing a first row of batten by keeping the distance from the outer edge of the outer fascia board to the top
edge of the batten at 34cm

c. Fixing the pair of battens at the ridge by keeping the gap between each other at 4-6cm

d. Then measure the length (L) of the remaining space. The length, In L meter, should be equally divided
into section with a space of 32-34cm each for the remaining battens.

Be careful with the batten spacing. A space beyond the suggested scope will make tiling too difficult or
lead to leakage.
There are some progresses in photos for Batten Spacing Calculation:

e. Find the number of batten row by dividing (L) meters with a space of 33cm

- How to find Number of Row

- How to find batten Space

For example

- The Length is 4m, Which mean (L) equals 400cm. Divide the length with a space of 33cm with means
the remaining space should be divide into 12 rows ; ( 400cm / 33cm = 12 rows )

- To find batten spacing, divide the 12 batten rows with 400cm length. The proper batten spacing is
33cm ; ( 400cm / 12 rows = 33,3cm)
2.3 BATTEN INSTALLATION TIPS
 In case of installing battens on top of rafters, overlap batten at 5cm fixing them with 2 between screws
(One for each side)

 In case of installing battens between rafters, overlap batten at 20cm fixing them with 4 between screws
(Two for each side)

Details:

a. Installing batten on the top of rafters

b. Installing batten between rafters


2.4 HEAT INSULATION INSTALLATION

 Place heat reflective insulation from battens up to the ridge. Install the heat reflective insulation in U shape
between batten space to prevent the tear
 Overlap the side of heat reflective insulations at 15cm and 20cm at the ridge

Detail:

a. Place heat reflective insulation from battens up to the ridge. Install the heat reflective insulation in U
shape between batten spaces to prevent the tear.

b. Overlap the side of heat reflective insulations at 15cm and 20cm at the ridge.

2.5 TILE PREPARATION ON SITE

 Tile piling at the site


- Level and clear the piling area
- Support a pile with a 1.5 x 3 inches planks
- Each pile should be limited to 35 tiles
- Flip over the top tiles to prevent dust from covering tile surface
 Tile piling on the roof
- Place tiles horizontally on the third batten row between ridges
- Each pile should be limited to 6 tiles and placed every other two rows
- Repeat the process until the tiles cover the whole roof

2.6 TILE INSTALLATION

 The first row of tiles must be laid on the fascia. Start from the far right side and leave an extra space
of 3cm from the edge of the outer bard board. A wider space can cause leakage at verge end.

 Complete first full row of tiles at eaves, fixing tiles to batten with (5cm) tile screw.

 Lay the next row of tiles alternatively in broken bond manner. Stretch between the ridge and eaves at
the eaves at a span of every 10 tiles or every 3 meters to ensure alignment. Repeat the process to
the ridge.

Detail:

a. The first row of tiles must be laid on the fascia. Start from the far right side and leave an extra space of
3cm from the edge of the outer barged board. A wider space can cause leakage at verge end.

The first row of Tile 3 cm form the edge of the outer barged board

b. Complete first full row of tiles at eaves, fixing tiles to batten with No.8 (2.5 inches) tile screw
c. Lay the next row of tiles alternatively in broken bond manner. Stretch between the ridge and eaves at the
eaves at a span of every 10 tiles or every 3 meters to ensure alignment. Repeat the process to the ridge

2.7 ANGLES HIPS INSTALLATION FOR HIP ROOF

 Place the end of outermost pair of tiles as close to each other as possible at 45-degree angle

 Fasten the tile bits by drilling their adjoining sides. And holding them together with galvanized wire or
screws

a. Place the end of outermost pair of tiles as close to each other as possible at 45-degree angle

b. Fasten the tile bits by drilling their adjoining sides. And holding them together with galvanized
wire or screws
2.8 BARGE BOARD INSTALLATION

 The top of bargeboard and the top of batten must be equally high. Otherwise, bargeboard will not be
connected to tiles, causing leakage
 Nail a screw to support the barge end. Leaving and extra 1.5 cm of the screw from the additional
barge board to ensure that the verges are well aligned.
 Begin with the verge end. Place it exactly on top of the outermost tile in the first row, with its top end
touching the outermost tile in the second row. Fix the verge end with two screws. The screw should
not be fixed too firmly or the verge will break
 Repeat the process to the ridge.

Details:

a. The top of bargeboard and the top of batten must be equally high. Otherwise, bargeboard will not be
connected to tiles, causing leakage

b. Nail a screw to support the barge end. Leaving and extra 1.5 cm of the screw from the additional barge
board to ensure that the verges are well aligned.
c. Begin with the verge end. Place it exactly on top of the outermost tile in the first row, with its top end
touching the outermost tile in the second row. Fix the verge end with two screws. The screw should not be
fixed too firmly or the verge will break.

 Fix the verge end with two No. 8 screws. The screw should not be fixed too firmly or the verge will break.

d. Repeat the process to the ridge.

Caution: do not cover the tile’s edge or fill the gap at the barge totally. The mortar absorbs humidity,
which cause leakage.
2.9 ROUND RIDGE INSTALLATION TIPS FOR GABLE ROOF & ROUND HIPS INSTALLATION
TIP FOR HIP ROOF

 Line up round ridges on the ridge and round hips on the hip and Installation.
 Mark the mid-point spine of each round ridge cover on its enlarged head to level with a string for
alignment.
 Mix 1 part of cement, 1.5 of fine sand, and enough water to ensure adhesiveness without being runny.
Apply mortar along the round ridge. The wet mortar bedding under the round ridge should be 2.5 cm
thick to prevent cracks.
 Proceed to lay the rest of round ridge and align their marked mid-points with the extended. String to
ensure perfect straight line of the ridge.
 For gable roof, use a 2-way round ridge to cover the round ridge at the mid-point of the ridge. For hip
roof, install the 3-way apex to cover ridge and hip joint.
 While the mortar is still not quite stiff, remove the unwanted mortar with a trowel and smoothen the
remaining mortar bed. Drill mortar beds and the end of water runoff groove of every tile along both
sides of the ridge with 0.25-inch rebar. When the bedding surface begins to whiten. Use a dry sponge
or rag to wipe off blotches of mortar on the tiles and round ridges.

Details:

a. Line up round ridges on the ridge and round hips on the hip. If the round ridge cover cannot fit, cut off
the end of one of the adjoining round ridge and incise a new water runoff groove.
 The remaining round ridge should be smaller than 25cm. For gable roof, before installing round
ridges, cut out the round ridge end according to the line guided underneath. The cut out round ridge
end will perfectly fit with the barge at the gable.

b. Mark the mid-point spine of each round ridge cover on its enlarged head to level with a string for
alignment.

c. Mix 1 part of cement, 1.5 of fine sand, and enough water to ensure adhesiveness without being runny.
Apply mortar along the round ridge. The wet mortar bedding under the round ridge should be 2.5 cm
thick to prevent cracks.
d. Proceed to lay the rest of round ridge and align their marked mid-points with the extended. String to
ensure perfect straight line of the ridge.

e. For gable roof, use a 2-way round ridge to cover the round ridge at the mid-point of the ridge. For hip
roof, install the 3-way apex to cover ridge and hip joint.

f. While the mortar is still not quite stiff, remove the unwanted mortar with a trowel and smoothen the
remaining mortar bed.
 Drill mortar beds and the end of water runoff groove of every tile along both sides of the ridge with
0.25-inch rebar.

Noted: When the bedding surface begins to whiten. Use a dry sponge or rag to wipe off blotches of
mortar on the tiles and round ridges.

2.10 VALLEY TROUGH INSTALLATION AND VALLEY TILE CUTTING

 The proper size of valley trough is 12 cm wide and 3 cm deep, with each of wings 12 cm wide. Both edges
of two wings are folded inwards. This size of trough applies to a valley no longer than 6m or on below a
catchment area no greater than 36 square meters.

 Before installation, valley lining should be made at the interval of 14 cm. Fasten two battens, with each of
them 7 cm away from the valley’s centerline.

 Valley troughs can be joined by leaving one overlap another for at least 20cm and fix with two batten
screws at each side.

 At the head of valley rafter, in case two troughs meet at 45 degrees, cut their ends diagonally. Place both
ends of the troughs as close to each other as possible before covering the joint with valley flashing fold.

 In case of one-way valley, fold the valley trough head up to the height of 2.5 cm and ben the trough wed
against the roof ridge.

 Cut the tile along the valley with electric grinder, eaving about 3 cm gaps between the tiles along the
valley’s central dividing line. Caution that the electric grinder may cut through the trough and cause
leakage.

 Hammer and take out the nip of batten lay on the valley trough wings or drill the tile bit and fix it with
galvanize wire.

 For the valley trough at eaves, fit the angle to the edge of eaves tile. At the valley trough end of the roof
area, allow the end of the valley trough to cover half of tile on the lower portion and flat the trough end
down to the under tile to avoid slight opening.
 At the valley trough end of the roof area, allow the end of the valley trough to cover half of the tile or no
less than 15 cm. on the lower portion and flat the trough end down to the under tile to avoid slight opening.

Details:

a. The proper size of valley trough is 12 cm wide and 3 cm deep, with each of wings 12 cm wide. Both edges
of two wings are folded inwards. This size of trough applies to a valley no longer than 6m or on below a
catchment area no greater than 36 square meters.

b. Before installation, lining should be made at the interval of 14cm. Fasten two batten, which each of them
7cm away from the valley’s centerline.

c. Valley troughs can be join by leaving overlap another for at least 20cm and fix with two batten screws at
each side.
d. At the heat of valley rafter, In case two troughs meet at 45 degrees, cut their end diagonally.

 Place both ends of the troughs as close to each other as possible before covering the joint with valley
flashing fold.

e. In case of one-way valley, fold the valley trough head up to the height of 2.5 cm.
 And ben the trough wed against the roof ridge.

f. Cut the tile along the valley with electric grinder, eaving about 3 cm gaps between the tiles along the
valley’s central dividing line. l

Caution: The electric grinder may cut through the trough and cause leakage.
g. Hammer and take out the nip of batten lay on the valley trough wings or drill the tile bit and fix it with
galvanize wire.

 Or drills the tile bit and fix it with galvanize wire.

h. For the valley trough at eaves, fit the angle to the edge of eaves tile. At the valley trough end of the roof
area, allow the end of the valley trough to cover half of tile. On the lower portion and flat the trough end
down to the under tile to avoid slight opening.
 On the lower portion and flat the trough end down to the under tile to avoid slight opening.

i. At the valley trough end of the roof area, allow the end of the valley trough to cover half of the tile or no
less than 15 cm. on the lower portion and flat the trough end down to the under tile to avoid slight opening.

Noted: The last work is painting mortar along ridge hip


3 INSPECTIONC & TOLERANCE
 Verticality or plumb of trusses
 Alignment of trusses
 Undulating tiled roof lines
 Dry Valley trough construction
 Cutting of roof tiles
 Overhang of roofing (tiles and sheet roofing)
 Roof tile pointing
 Roof tile
 Leaks in roofing, flashings and accessories

a. Verticality or Plumb of trusses


Trusses or parts of trusses that are erected with vertical deviation more than the lesser of H/50 or 50mm
are defective, where H is the height of truss.
b. Alignment of trusses
Trusses or chords of trusses that bow more than the lesser of L/200 or 50mm are defective, where L is
Length of the truss or chord.

c. Undulating tiled roof Lines

Undulations in the line of roof tile are defective if the variation exceeds 20mm in any 4m length measure in
roof plane.

d. Dry valley trough construction

Dry valley, where they are documented, are defective if they are not constructed in
accordance with a building code of Australia or any relevant instruction from roofing tile
associations or the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

e. Cutting of roof tile

Tiles are defective if they are not cut neatly to present a straight line at ridge, hips, verges and valleys.

f. Overhang of roofing (tiles and sheet roofing)

Tile roofing is defective if tiles overhang the inside face of a gutter by less than 35mm or more than 65mm
g. Roof tile pointing

Unless documented otherwise, the absence of pointing where required is defective.

Pointing is defective if it becomes dislodged or washed out.

The pointing is defective if is not uniform in color, texture and trowelled off to provide a neat appearance.
The rectification of pointing shall match the exciting color and texture as close as practicable.

h. Leaks in roofing, flashings and accessories


Roofing, including flashing and accessories, is defective if it is leaks under normal weather conditions and
is due to the builder’s workmanship, cause unhealthy or dangerous condition, loss of amenity for
occupants, undue dampness or deterioration of building element.

You might also like